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October 2021 Creamy pumpkin pasta • Salmon & sumac fishcakes • Baked rice pudding

Home comforts

• Sausage & bean casserole with cheese-on-toast crumbs • Coq au vin pie • Chocolate pudding with rich chocolate custard

Spooky Halloween treats for kids TOM KERRIDGE’S SUNDAY PUB CLASSICS

Perfect Jamaican plantain puffs BRITAIN’S BEST DRINKS REVEALED

BOOST YOUR COOKING SKILLS •

Cook Malaysian tamarind lamb Make a sticky ginger loaf cake Bake 10-minute Bonfire Night cookies

October 2021

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Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine

recipes

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October sue!* is is h t h it w E E R F 24-PAGE BR ILLIA NT BATCH COOKING 22 recipes plus cleve

r tips to help you save

time in the kitchen

VE EXCLUSIwith October 2021

*Not available with international editions

Our commitment At Immediate Media, publishers of BBC Good Food, we respect and value differences. We understand that when people from different backgrounds and with different points of view work together, we can create the most value – for our readers, our people and society. We always strive to be inclusive, but we need to do better. We have been taking time to listen and understand how we can make positive changes, and how we can better support and increase diversity across all our brands.

We have begun work on a comprehensive plan to create and drive authentic change.

When it comes to understanding how you like to eat, BBC Good Food knows the score. Why? Because you tell us, in emails and calls, commenting under recipes on bbcgoodfood.com, in Facebook Together discussions and on Instagram – our community is a constant source of inspiration. As Britain’s biggest food media brand, we never take our number-one status for granted, so we also invest in wider research to spot new patterns and trends and plan content ideas. This year’s Good Food Nation survey, in which we spoke to 3,000 nationally representative people, revealed how children are keen to do more cooking, but lack the skills. Read Keith Kendrick’s report on page 54 and watch this space for a new series in which we’ll skill-up the new generation.

Family time in the kitchen can be bonding, as we discover in our new feature on page 58, where mother and daughter Julie and Lexie tell writer Punteha van Terheyden how cooking inspired Lexie’s website (lexiecooks. com) and created a shared dream of running a café.

See you next issue, our bumper Christmas edition, out 28 October with a bonus 2022 recipe calendar.

Star contributors Nargisse Benkabbou The chef and author talks about growing up in a Moroccan community in Brussels (p106) and shares her harira recipe.

Humayun Hussain Good Food reader Humayun makes aloo chole, a simple but delicious vegan chickpea dish that’s perfect for busier days, on page 12.

Vuyelo Ndlovu The drinks expert and journalist explores hot chocolate drinks from around the world, including a vegan chai option, on page 144.

Joanna Blythman Our columnist finds inspiration in stories of international food producers and how they’re keeping old traditions alive (p123).

WE ARE COOK THE COVER p32 RECIPE

Barney Desmazery PHOTOGRAPH

Myles New FOOD STYLIST

Esther Clark STYLIST

Christine Hayes, editor-in-chief christine.hayes@immediate.co.uk @bbcgoodfood

Luis Peral SHOOT DIRECTOR

Ben Curtis & Sarah Snelling OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 5

Inside OCTOBER 2021 COOK’S CALENDAR 15

Sort out what to do in your kitchen this month, plus shopping inspiration and Saliha Mahmood Ahmed’s broccoli pakoras

NEW COMFORT CLASSICS

Warm up with upgraded family favourites, from lasagne to sponge pudding

EASY FAMILY

48

HAPPY HALLOWEEN

54

GOOD FOOD NATION

58

82

WEEKNIGHT PUDDING

84

USE YOUR LEFTOVERS

Welcome cooler evenings with a baked rice pud What to create with what you have left from this issue

HEALTH

COVER STORY 31

83

49

Throw a spooky party with kid-friendly treats

88

HEALTH NEWS

89 90

FIVE IDEAS

Discover low-carb swaps, and try a light butternut soup Use up your peanut butter HEALTHY DIET PLAN

Serve a lighter Sunday roast

WEEKEND

104

94

BLACK HISTORY MONTH

Melissa Thompson shares food that celebrates her Jamaican heritage

GRUB 100 PUB Tom Kerridge’s new ideas

for classic pub-style meals

The results of our survey show how kids are getting into cooking

106

MY FAVOURITE DISH

111 112

WEEKEND BAKE

119

MAKE & GIVE

CLOSE CONNECTIONS

In the first of a new series, Lexie and mum Julia share their love of cooking together

96

COMPETITION FOR KIDS

Design a dream gingerbread home for a chance to feature in our December issue

MIDWEEK

Chef Nargisse Benkabbou discusses Moroccan cuisine and shares her harira recipe Vegan ginger loaf cake IN SEASON

Make good use of October’s best fruit and vegetables Mix up a pumpkin pickle

62

RAID THE SHELVES

OPINION

Use up pantry ingredients to make a filling dinner

123

JOANNA BLYTHMAN

68

STORECUPBOARD STARS

125

MARVERINE COLE

126

DRINKS TASTE AWARDS

Ready-made spice pastes pep up weeknight meals

ANYTIME

75

MEAL FOR ONE

77

FROZEN ASSETS

78

Treat yourself to a moreish sticky paneer naan Fill the freezer with easy piri-piri pulled pork TWO TWISTS

Get ahead on Bonfire Night with two cookie recipes

The food producers that are keeping traditions alive Usher in autumn with this selection of beers Our first-ever drinks awards will help you stock your bar

COOKING SKILLS

40

6 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

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KNOW YOUR STUFF

Expert cooking tips and kitchen know-how, plus ideas for hot chocolate

Why you can trust

EVERY ISSUE RECIPE INDEX Where to find

8

all the recipes in this issue YOUR FEEDBACK Share your

10 13

views, photos and recipes READER EVENT Join us for lunch with Tom Kerridge SUBSCRIBER CLUB Find out about exclusive offers

44 91

114

PERSONALISED COOKBOOK

110 154

The perfect foodie gift NEXT MONTH What’s coming up in our Christmas issue TONIGHT’S SPECIAL

Baked cod with orzo

READER OFFERS Book a festive river cruise, p109 Grow your own berries with an offer from YouGarden, p117 Save 40% on a Judge all-in-one soup maker, p122 An exclusive 12-bottle case of mixed wines from Laithwaites, p130 Save 20% on smart waste solutions from EKO Home, p132

Biggest and best We’re proud to be Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine and the UK’s No 1 food website, bbcgoodfood.com. Our contributors – BBC chefs, our in-house cookery team and confident, outspoken columnists – are experts in their fields. Meet us at the UK’s biggest food shows (visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com for dates and details). Our best-selling cookbooks feature our trusted recipes – you’ll find these in bookshops.

Recipes for everyone There are at least 70 recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain. We always include quick, easy dishes, ideas for relaxed entertaining and more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our many easy recipes.

126

Tested and trusted All our recipes are thoroughly tested by experts to ensure they’ll work for you. We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us.

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In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, high-welfare chicken and eggs and sustainable fish whenever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste, with advice on using leftovers (tune in to Facebook Live to see our #FridayFood challenge, when we use up leftovers).

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index

VEGETARIAN MAINS

116

Aloo chole 12 Aubergine ragu 67 Cauli-roni cheese 84 Chipotle red pepper soup 64 Creamy mushroom lasagne 38 Creamy pumpkin pasta 114 Mini pumpkin & feta pies 51 Mixed bean salad 66 Roasted pepper, tomato & tahini pasta 72 Shawarma-spiced paneer & cauliflower pilaf 68 Sticky paneer mango naans with herby yogurt 75

make it, snap it, post it

@bbcgoodfood #bbcgoodfood

SIDES, DRINKS & EXTRAS

INSTANT

RECIPE FINDER BREAKFAST & BRUNCH

POULTRY

Lexie’s cheesy breakfast flapjacks 60 Mushroom eggs benedict 20 Peanut butter overnight oats 89 Sweet potato & corn cakes with tamarind bacon & avocado 96

Bang bang chicken cups 89 Cheesy chicken & bean casserole 32 Chilli chicken with peanut noodles 89 Coq au vin pie & creamy chive mash 34 Creamy one-pan chicken & broccoli pasta 64 in this issue Nduja-stuffed chicken breasts 84 Peanut butter rainbow rice 89 Piri-piri pulled chicken 77 Smoked harissa-roasted chicken with anchovy mayonnaise 71 Sumac roast chicken 85

80

recipes

MEAT

Cheat’s stroganoff 84 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE Double sausage & bean casserole with cheese-on toast crumbs 32 Easy piri-piri pulled pork 77 Harira 108 Healthy roast dinner 90 Herb-roasted beef rump cap & mushroom ketchup 100 Honeyed ham chop, egg & gherkin butter 105 Lamb in tamarind & green chilli 140 Mini monster burgers 50 Nduja pizza 84 Pulled pork burgers 84 Simple spicy pasta for one 84 Steak with pesto beans & greens 73 RECIPE KEY

Vegan

Vegetarian

Balanced

FISH & SEAFOOD Baked cod with orzo & spicy sausage 154 Curry prawns 96 Grilled prawn cocktail salad & bloody mary dressing 104 Monkfish scampi & lime tartare 104 Salmon & sumac fishcakes 65 Zhoug-marinated prawn orzo 70 Low cal

Low fat

Gluten free

BAKING & DESSERTS Baked rice pudding 83 Banana & peanut butter ice cream 89 Bonfire Night cookies 80 Caramelised pear, rum & coconut crumble 116 Cheese & onion pie 138 Freaky fruit platter 52 Fruity flapjack cookies 80 Ginger & apple crumble 84 Gluten-free chocolate cake 136 Gory guts pizza tear ‘n’ share bread 53 Plantain puffs 98 Retro chocolate sponge pudding with chocolate custard 40 Spooky Halloween marshmallow cheesecake 49 Stuffed parathas 134 Vegan ginger loaf cake 111

Suitable for freezing

This magazine is published by Immediate Media Company Limited under licence from BBC Studios © Immediate Media Company Limited, 2020. BBC Good Food provides trusted, independent advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. When receiving assistance or sample products from suppliers, we ensure that our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised by never offering anything in return, such as positive coverage, and by including a brief credit where appropriate. We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the prices displayed in BBC Good Food. However, they can change after we go to print. Please check with the appropriate retailer for full details. Printed by Walstead Bicester in the UK. Text paper Novapress, supplied by StoraEnso from Veitsiluoto Mill in Finland. Immediate Media is working to ensure that all of its paper is sourced from well-managed forests. This magazine is printed on Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC®) certified paper.

This magazine can be recycled, for use in newspapers and packaging. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, visit bbcgoodfood.com, email goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk or write to Christine Hayes, Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT.

8 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Bicerin 144 Broccoli pakoras 27 Cheese & onion topping 85 Chilli crumbs 85 Chocolate caliente 145 Coriander green chutney 27 Garlic breadcrumbs 85 Homemade mozzarella 142 Kimchi double-cheese toasties 36 Lemon & parmesan crust 85 Mexican hot chocolate 144 Miso & butternut soup 88 Onion pickle 85 Pico de gallo 85 Pumpkin pickle 119 Quick onion relish 85 Spiced crumbs 85 Spiced pitta crisps 85 Sumac baked feta 85 Vegan chai hot chocolate 145 Whole baked cauliflower cheese 114

BBC Good Food magazine is available in both audio and electronic formats from National Talking Newspapers and Magazines. For more information, please contact National Talking Newspapers and Magazines, National Recording Centre, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 8DB; email info@tnauk.org.uk; or call 01435 866102. If you are enquiring on behalf of someone who has trouble with their sight, please consult them first.

ew holidays offer the freedom that a Marella cruise does – especially if you’re a keen foodie. Just picture it; one day you’re tucking into an authentic Spanish tortilla on the cosmopolitan streets of Barcelona, the next you’re sipping wine amongst the verdant vineyards of southern France.Paradise, right?

Naturally, you’ve missed exploring – with Marella Cruises, you can set sail to more than 200 destinations worldwide. With its burgeoning roster of ancient cities and tropical islands, and even awe-inspiring rainforests and culture-sprinkled coastlines, your next adventure is beckoning.

F

BEYOND THE SEA Marella Cruises knows there’s a lot to see – and eat – out there and it’s devoted to helping you experience the very best of it. On the western Mediterranean route, you can let your taste buds guide you as you dock at some of the world’s most renowned culinary hotspots. Say “buon appetito!” as you tuck into some of the finest Italian cooking in Rome, or sit in the shadows of Palma’s beautiful architecture and indulge in mouthwatering tapas in Majorca.

Of course, the eastern Mediterranean is also vast and full of gourmet treasures. In Corfu, you’ll find a welcome blend of upscale restaurants and rustic, family-run tavernas.

Whichever eatery you choose, you can be sure they all have one thing in common: delicious Greek cuisine you’ll savour long after your cruise is over.

Then there’s Croatia, home to an award-winning selection of wines and olive oils and a new breed of chefs who are bringing a more adventurous approach to the table.

If you want to venture a little further afield, the Caribbean and Central America route is perfect. Immerse yourself in the beauty of Costa Rica’s jungles and bite into exotic fruit and veg you’d be hard-pushed to find anywhere else. Or perhaps you’d prefer your fresh fruit puréed into a delectable cocktail that you can enjoy while relaxing on a flawless beach in St Kitts?

MEET THE FLEET The luxury doesn’t end when you’re back on board your Marella ship. Along with world-class entertainment, you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to dining. Try Kora La, a sleek restaurant

REST ASSURED that specialises in pan-Asian favourites and first-class sushi. Fine-dining enthusiasts will relish The Dining Club, the home of high-end cuisine, where delights include seared scallops with champagne butter and succulent chateaubriand for two. Heaven!

After dinner, you can continue the good times at flagship venue Indigo, a swanky bar, club and casino all-inone, offering stunning panoramic sea views. If you want to slow it down, how does a film under the stars at Marella’s open-air cinema sound? Across the entire fleet, you can expect smart, contemporary décor in both public and private spaces, so you feel at home and out somewhere special all at once.

THE MARELLA DIFFERENCE From the moment you step on board a Marella cruise, you’ll find a warm and welcoming atmosphere – though the team will look out for you long before you set sail. Whether you book at one of the nationwide TUI stores, by phone or online, the process is quick and easy, so you can focus on the best bit – getting ready for your well-deserved holiday!

What’s more, every cruise is allinclusive as standard, so you won’t have to worry about budgeting – and that includes tipping. Unlike most other cruise lines, Marella Cruises include tips and service charges, which means no more having to carry extra cash.

It also offers several ways to choose how you cruise. From adults-only to flexible durations, you can make your trip as individual as you are.

Marella knows these are unique times, so it’s put in place a number of policies to help make you feel safe and secure when booking a cruise.

• The package refund guarantee means you’re entitled to your money back within 14 days if your cruise is cancelled.

• If you or someone in your party is not able to travel due to contracting COVID-19, or you are officially required to self-isolate at the time of your departure, you will be able to change your holiday without charge.

• As always, your safety is Marella’s number one priority. That’s why there will be considered measures in place to protect you – as well as the crew – from COVID-19.

To find out more about how you can cruise with confidence, head to tui.co.uk/destinations/info/cruise -with-confidence.

Ready to plan your trip?

Visit tui.co.uk/cruise or call 0203 636 1862 today

Gary, Bertie, Julia, Olivia and Lexie with Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall

Julia adds, ‘Confidence gained from cooking seeps into other areas of Lexie’s life. She excelled at a spoken English GCSE exam with a poem called “Spaghetti Bolognese”, her favourite food.’

Lexie is now completing an NVQ in hospitality and catering at a specialist college, which includes working in a local hotel. Julia says, ‘It makes me so proud to see Lexie’s independence and skills growing. She’s someone her younger sisters Olivia, 18, and Bertie, 11, look up to, and that’s special for my husband Gary and me.

‘Lexie’s cooking brings the whole family together – Bertie talks about being a chef like her big sister. Olivia makes an amazing chocolate roulade for us now and we all put time into creating big birthday cakes for Bertie.’

During the pandemic, cooking became a way for Julia to help Lexie expand her home learning and stay connected with loved ones. ‘We set up a Facebook group to keep in touch with friends and family; it’s a space for swapping recipes and keeping busy. It naturally evolved into a website (lexiecooks.com) and became a place where Lexie and I could create easy-to-follow recipes for our favourite dishes and foods.

‘Soon, people we didn’t know were submitting recipes to us, including handwritten recipes from their grandparents. It was really special being a part of that. We had so much fun trying them out together – Jazz’s buttery dhal, Jack’s cheesy mushroom pasta, Malcolm’s carbonara. Lexie opens up when she’s cooking and it’s lovely to see her in her element.’

Lexie was contacted by Turning Heads, a community group that helps young families supporting loved ones with disabilities, to see if she could provide some recipes for them. It led to a series of video tutorials and a YouTube channel (search ‘LexieCooks’ on YouTube).

Lexie also enjoys adapting recipes to suit her younger sister Olivia, who’s vegetarian. ‘I swap mince for lentils in spaghetti bolognese and make a cheesy mushroom pasta,’ she explains. ‘I want to have a café with my mum.’

It’s a dream Julia shares. ‘Cooking is a way to show people you love them. My family ran a fish and chip shop from the late 1890s, so this is in our blood. I’d love to have a café with Lexie one day.

She’s a better chef than me – the perfect partner!’

& Next month, three generations reminisce about their Omani-style Christmas dinners and share how they’re celebrating this year

Bertie talks about becoming a chef like her sister Lexie

Lexie’s cheesy breakfast flapjacks MAKES 20 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Melt the butter in a small pan over a low heat. Tip the rest of the ingredients into a large bowl with a pinch of salt, then mix in the butter. Press the mixture into a 28 x 16cm baking tray lined with baking parchment (dampen your hands to prevent them sticking).

2 Bake for 30-35 mins until brown and crisp on top.

Leave to cool, then cut into 20 squares. Will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to three days.

PER SERVING 196 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 7g • carbs 13g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 7g • salt 0.4g

60 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Photographs @VTFEATURES

100g unsalted butter 350g porridge oats 350g cheddar, grated 3 carrots, grated 2 eggs 1 tsp mixed dried Italian herbs 2 tbsp mixed ground seeds (we used a linseed mix)

What you’ve been sharing I love logging on to our GF Facebook Community page to find out what you’ve been discussing – and what I can learn. Here are some of my highlights.

The season of giving

Love is in the air

After not seeing friends and family for a while, it’s always nice to give them a homemade gift. If you’re stuck for ideas, Laurie suggests making gourmet jams and chutneys. ‘Add a unique flavour like chai, chamomile or blueberry to really make it your own.’ Stick them in a jar with a pretty label and you have an easy and delicious treat.

Laurie Martin, Besançon, France

Last month love was all around us for wedding season, and avid baker Melanie decided to create a stunning table for her son Oliver and daughter-in-law Lauren’s wedding. She says, ‘It was so special, we had a marquee with a hog roast, including a semi-naked wedding cake, brownies decorated with white chocolate and flower petals and individual pavlovas. It was truly a labour of love.’ Hats off to the star baker and congratulations to the bride and groom!

Melanie Harrington, Greenstead Green, Essex

The Christmas excitement begins I know the Yuletide season is still a little way off, but I can’t help myself, so I asked the group about their favourite festive memories: ‘Christmas Eve and Christmas Day = festive music and movie marathons to get me in the spirit.’

Kay Botha, Auckland, New Zealand

‘Putting up the Christmas decorations as soon as the Coca-Cola Christmas ads pop up on TV.’ Lucy Hill, Telford, Shropshire

‘Making another kransekake and finding the Christmas pickle on the Christmas tree.’

Tracey Carey, Buckingham, Buckinghamshire

‘Carrying on the tradition of everyone in our house stirring the Christmas pudding mix and making a wish.’

Janelle Gerke, Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

JOIN OUR FACEBOOK COMMUNITY, BBC GOOD FOOD TOGETHER Connect with us and others to share recipes, cooking tips and the kind acts you’re doing or noticing. Check out what everyone’s cooking and post your own kitchen creations. @bbcgoodfood

YOUR TOP SIX CREATIONS With the seasons changing, I’ve been looking at snaps of your summer cooking. Here are my favourites.

Richard Vickers, East Yorkshire

Brent Cruickshank, Aberdeenshire

Jini Baggott, South Africa

Bronwyn Anderson, Edinburgh

Nicola-jo Urry, Hampshire

Sarah Samuels, the Lake District

Turn the page to see reader Humayan’s aloo chole

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 11

Your recipes

ALOO CHOLE From Good Food reader Humayun Hussain photograph TOM REGESTER

Because I have a busy life, cooking is often a balance between speed and flavour – and I’d rather not compromise on flavour. So, I take a few shortcuts and keep dishes simple, while ensuring they’re still delicious. Aloo chole certainly is, and it’s a perennial favourite – serve it with plain basmati rice, naan or chapatis.

2 tbsp vegetable oil ¼ small red onion, finely chopped 200g new potatoes, boiled, peeled and halved 1 tsp garlic paste 1 tsp ginger paste 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp chilli powder 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed ½ tsp tomato purée 1cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped ½ small bunch of coriander, leaves picked and roughly chopped ½ tsp garam masala ½ green chilli, thinly sliced, to garnish basmati rice, naan or chapatis, to serve

1 Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and cook the onion for 7 mins until beginning to soften.

Turn the heat up to high, tip in the potatoes and fry for 3 mins until the potatoes are starting to colour.

Add the garlic, ginger paste, ground coriander, cumin, turmeric, chilli powder and a pinch of salt. Mix well, then stir in 100ml water.

2 Gently stir in the chickpeas and tomato purée. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 5 mins to reduce the liquid a little. Season, then stir in the fresh ginger and half the coriander. Taste for seasoning.

3 Sprinkle over the garam masala, chilli and remaining coriander leaves, then serve in bowls.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 355 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 1g • carbs 37g • sugars 3g • fibre 10g • protein 12g • salt 1.4g

12 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Shoot director HAYLEY WARD | Food stylist KATY GREENWOOD | Stylist AGATHE GITS

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

Become a member at bbcgoodfood.com With over 13,000 recipes to choose from, you’re sure to find plenty of inspiration on our website.

Create a free My Good Food account and opt in to receive recipe recommendations direct to your inbox.

JOIN US FOR LUNCH WITH BBC CHEF TOM KERRIDGE Subscribers are invited to The Bull & Bear on 3 November

FREE GOODY BAG

W SHARING MENU E TO START Potted Cornish crab with smoked paprika butter & cucumber chutney

WORTH £25 (see p24)

Rotisserie beetroot & burrata salad with hazelnut dressing WE

FIRST COURSE

Photographs NATURAL SELECTION DESIGN

E

njoy a fabulous four-course sharing menu with wine pairings with BBC chef Tom Kerridge at his restaurant, The Bull & Bear in Manchester. Housed in the domed former trading room at the grade-II listed Stock Exchange Hotel, the restaurant is a stunning setting to try Tom’s signature British comfort food, prepared using outstanding produce.

In the old Stock Exchange, two areas were reserved for more confidential transactions; these spaces have now been reinvented into private dining areas, The Vault and The Bank.

Lunch will take place in The Bank, and you’ll be seated at a communal table, giving you the chance to meet Good Food team members and fellow subscribers in a welcoming environment. You’ll enjoy a four-course lunch (see menu, right) with wine pairings for each course introduced by an expert sommelier. At the end of the afternoon, you’ll receive a goody bag worth £25 to take home. @bullandbearmcr

Mushroom risotto “Claude Bosi” DATE Wednesday 3 November LOCATION The Bull & Bear, Stock Exchange Hotel, Manchester thebullandbearmcr. com START TIME 12-4pm THE PRICE £250 per person, for magazine subscribers, including wine pairings with each course

Rotisserie-baked Agria potato with crème fraîche & raw steak WE

SECOND COURSE Pan-fried halibut with olive oil braised fennel, samphire & brown shrimp butter Treacle-cured fillet of beef with pomme Anna & red wine sauce WE

SWEET Treacle tart with Cornish clotted cream Chocolate & orange pudding with Bailey’s ice cream & hot chocolate sauce

TO BOOK visit goodfoodsubscriber.seetickets.com/go/tomkerridge FOR QUERIES email bbcgfevents@immediate.co.uk NOT A SUBSCRIBER? For a chance to attend exclusive events like this, subscribe today.

You’ll be the first to get invited to exclusive dinners, workshops, tastings and more.

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weekend

brought home almost daily. There were always naughty treats at home. Friends would say, “every time I have dinner at your place I gain five kilos!”

‘My parents wanted us to know how rich and varied Moroccan cuisine is, and to understand its customs.

For instance, my recipe, harira (overleaf), is a nutritious soup that was the first thing we would eat during Ramadan to break the fast. Dad would say, “harira has everything one needs”. It is served at the end of Moroccan weddings too and for breakfast in Morocco’s souks. Harira comes from the word harir meaning silk. It’s meant to be silky and comforting.

‘My mum was very homesick in Belgium and cooking was a way to feel closer to home. I helped with simple jobs, peeling vegetables or shelling prawns. But mum would always get me to taste the food and ask me: “what’s in this? Is there turmeric? Ginger?”. As a chef, that really developed my palate. I learned so much watching her cook.

‘We’d all eat together and, when eating Moroccan dishes, there would usually be a selection of raw or cooked salads to start. Things like charred aubergines and chickpeas, chermoula-seasoned carrots or zaalouk, a soft, spicy aubergine dip eaten with bread.

Then we’d move to mains such as couscous or a tagine.

Clockwise, from top left: Nargisse is executive chef at L’Mida; recipes from her cookbook, Casablanca: artichoke, baby potato & preserved lemon tagine, Casablanca couscous, and chicken, carrot & charred lemon tagine; Nargisse’s mother in Belgium; both parents on their wedding day

‘In the West, semolina granules – what Moroccans call smida – are known as couscous. But in Morocco, couscous refers to a variety of slow-cooked broths served on smida. The meat, often stewing beef, is cooked for a long time with vegetables, chickpeas, turmeric and saffron to create a delicious broth.

‘In Morocco, on Fridays, it’s traditional to go to the mosque to pray and, for lunch, have couscous. Usually, people make a huge portion so they can give away a plate to people who don’t have anything; maybe to someone on the street or donate to the local mosque.

‘Tagines are stews, essentially. But something people don’t generally know, outside Morocco, is how they are classified. The four dominant tagines are mqualli with turmeric, saffron and ground ginger; mhammer with ground paprika and cumin; chermoula-flavoured mchermel; and tomato-based tagine. To Moroccans, there is a clear logic to which ingredients you add: meat, fish, spices, preserved lemons, depending on which style you are making.

‘Personally, I don’t mind people not following the rules. I’m happy people are embracing Moroccan culture. But, as a Moroccan chef, it’s important to spread accurate, authentic knowledge.’ mymoroccanfood.com @mymoroccanfood OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 107

kitchen projects

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10 THINGS TO The Good Food Team shares their kitchen to-do list, plus Emma Crawforth from BBC Gardeners’ World on what to plant

SUPPORT OUR ORCHARDS ENJOY BRITISH APPLES Now’s the time for British apples, so seek them out at farmers’ markets or visit an orchard – these will often offer much more than just apples. Look out for eating apples such as Pearmain, Egremont Russet, Golden Pippin, Herring’s Pippin and Laxton’s Reward. Buying tip: rather than looking for perfect, unblemished apples, choose ones with a bit of scarring. These will be the sweetest, as the scar is from the leaves rubbing against the fruit as it forms – this only happens on the outside of the tree, which gets the most sunshine.

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MAKE A SHOPPING LIST

ESSENTIAL BUYS FOR OCTOBER • Invest in a cast-iron pot If you haven’t invested in one yet, this is the right time of year to do it. Think ahead to slow-cooked stews, pot-roast chicken and rich ragus – a cast-iron pot helps contain heat and break down tougher cuts of meat, and can be used on the hob or in the oven. They’re incredibly useful, hard-wearing and, when cared for, will last a lifetime.

• Good stock Buy a pouch or two of good-quality chicken stock to enrich soups, gravies and noodle broths. Fresh stock tends to be richer and less salty than the cubed condensed versions. Look for these in the chilled meat section of your local supermarket or ask your butcher.

Diary dates

ALL MONTH BLACK HISTORY MONTH BREAST CANCER AWARENESS MONTH

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DO THIS MONTH 3

KITCHEN THERAPY MAKE A PERFECT PIE Pie season is in full swing, so go all out and make a knock-out version with homemade pastry and your favourite filling (our next level cheese & onion pie on page 138 is a good place to start). A quality pie dish will ensure a crisp crust – we like metal or enamel ones for fruit pies and deeper tins for savoury pies– but avoid glass or china, which don’t conduct heat well and can result in a soggy bottom. Try adding a lattice top for a professional finish, or use a scalloped-edged pastry cutter for a twee touch.

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SPICE THINGS UP

STORECUPBOARD HERO October is known for pumpkin spice, which starts popping up on nearly every menu in lattes, muffins and pies. It’s easy to make your own blend at home: just combine ground cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg with a little sugar (find the full recipe for ‘pumpkin spice blend’ on bbcgoodfood.com). Stir it into your coffee, sprinkle over porridge, mix into cake batters or use in crumble toppings for muffins and puddings to give you an instant hit of autumn.

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HAVE A CLEAR- OUT ORGANISE YOUR CROCKERY It’s time to brave that cupboard stacked high with plates, bowls and platters.

Get rid of any old, unused or chipped crockery and replace with new ones. See our favourite new kitchenware on page 28, or look up local potters or craft markets for hand-thrown items. With the party season looming, a good-looking platter is a great investment for doing justice to a centrepiece dish.

2 OCT GANDHI JAYANTI (HINDU)

30 OCT BRITISH SUMMERTIME ENDS

31 OCT HALLOWEEN

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 17

BEST DARK RUM WINNER Irresistible Pineapple Rum £20 (70cl), Co-op A big package jam-packed with tropical fruits on the nose that lead to a massive ripe pineapple hit. Plus, unlike a lot of flavoured spirits, this retains a cocktail-worthy 40% ABV. SERVE: use in a pineapple & rum cake or serve long with cola for a dark rum twist on a cuba libre (find both recipes on bbcgoodfood.com).

RUNNER UP Caribbean Dark Rum £15 (1 litre), Morrisons A solid dark rum with deep brown sugar, baked apples and vanilla coming through alongside a slightly under-ripe pineapple element.

The vanilla fades into a woody note on the finish.

SERVE: as a long drink with ginger beer over ice, it is especially delicious.

BEST CANNED GIN AND TONIC WINNER Tesco Gin & Tonic £1 per 250ml can Delicately flavoured, but opens up with a nip of juniper to remind you of the gin in there.

SERVE: well-chilled, with a lemon slice and rosemary sprig or cucumber slice for a fresh garnish.

BEST CANNED BERRY COCKTAIL WINNER M&S Blackberry Gin Bramble £2 per 250ml can, M&S and Ocado This fun, fruity cocktail is packed with ripe berry flavours that are balanced by a double measure of dry gin to offset the sweetness.

SERVE: well-chilled, ideally with a handful of crushed ice and a mint sprig garnish.

128 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

BEST WHITE RUM WINNER Caribbean White Rum £15 (1 litre), Tesco An ideal mixing rum, with a light, grassy nose, subtle pineapple and hints of green sugar cane that add complexity without dominating a cocktail.

SERVE: in a mojito (find a recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

RUNNER UP Caribbean Pearl White Rum £11 (70cl), Sainsbury’s This is a slightly more assertive white rum, with ripe banana esters, dark sugar notes and some heat. Its full mouthfeel balances things out.

SERVE: treat yourself to a more traditional white rum cuba libre – the deep sugar flavour will work perfectly.

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SMALL CHANGES, BIG IMPACT

IN THE GARDEN

• Keep picking apples and store any that are blemishfree in a cool, airy place, such as on open-shed shelves.

• A few crops grow well if started this month, so don’t be afraid to sow a batch of broad beans and peas or plant garlic.

• Take down bean and tomato supports and clear away any old crops so you’ll be ready to prepare your plot for next year’s growing.

• Cut down any Jerusalem artichoke and asparagus stems.

• Organise delivery of organic mulch to spread over empty beds.

Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, SERGE BERTASIUS, MONMENTS D3SIGN

WHAT IS B CORP?

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ou may have noticed the B Corp logo on some food labels, which means the producer or business is certified as promising to balance purpose and profit. They’re legally required to consider the impact of decisions on workers, customers, suppliers, the community and environment. Instead of focusing solely on profit, B Corp companies are assessed through environmental and social responsibility, from diversity and worker’s rights, to emissions and waste and corporate governance.

They must believe in interdependence and that each is responsible for the other’s as well as future generations.

The certification is earned and it’s a

rigorous process. Only 3,500 companies have been certified so far, and as many as two in three fail. While it isn’t widely publicised yet, you may already buy food and drink from one of these companies.

Yeo Valley, Tony’s Chocolonely, Innocent, Sipsmith, Pip & Nut, Oddbox and HelloFresh are all B Corp-certified.

Certification lasts for three years, so if companies don’t stay true to their promise, they lose it. Some online retailers allow you to search for B Corp, so if you’re interested in the companies you buy from, you can take a look.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 19

Inside your veg box

MUSHROOMS October is the best time for wild mushrooms of all shapes and sizes. Look out for seasonal varieties, such as chanterelle, porcini and ceps, and shine a light on their earthy flavour with this stand-out brunch dish

SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp unsalted butter 250g mixed mushrooms (or use portobello) 1 small garlic clove, crushed 150g spinach or chard, roughly chopped 4 eggs 2 large, thick slices of sourdough or 2 English muffins, toasted small handful of chopped chives or tarragon For the hollandaise 40ml white wine vinegar, plus extra for the ramekin 5 peppercorns 1 bay leaf 2 egg yolks (freeze the whites for another recipe) 100g unsalted butter, melted

1 Heat the oil and butter in a frying pan over a medium heat until foaming, then fry the mushrooms for 10 mins until just golden brown.

Add the garlic and spinach and fry for 5 mins more, then season with salt and black pepper and set aside.

2 For the hollandaise, tip the vinegar, peppercorns, bay leaf and 40ml water into a small pan.

Simmer over a low heat until the liquid has reduced by two-thirds.

Remove from the heat and set aside.

3 Fill a large pan a third full with water and bring to a gentle simmer.

Whisk the egg yolks with 1 tbsp of the vinegar mixture in a heatproof bowl for 3-5 mins until just aerated.

Set the bowl over the simmering water and slowly drizzle in the melted butter, whisking until all the butter has been incorporated and the mixture has emulsified.

Remove from the heat and taste for seasoning. Add a little more of

the vinegar mixture or salt and pepper, if you like.

4 Bring a pan of lightly salted water to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer.

Wipe a little vinegar around a small ramekin using kitchen paper, then crack in one of the whole eggs.

Swirl the simmering water using a wooden spoon and wait for the vortex to begin to subside. When it does, gently tip the egg into the middle and cook for 3 mins. Scoop out onto a plate using a slotted spoon, then repeat with the remaining eggs. Reheat the mushrooms over a low heat, then pile these on top of the toast. Top with the poached eggs, hollandaise and chives or tarragon.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 648 kcals • fat 47g • saturates 22g • carbs 26g • sugars 3g • fibre 3g • protein 27g • salt 1.2g

NEW WAYS WITH MUSHROOMS MUSHROOM R AGU

VEGGIE SAUSAGE ROLLS

ADD TRUFFLES

Make our creamy mushroom lasagne on page 38, or simply make the ragu and toss it with cooked spaghetti, pappardelle or rigatoni for a comforting meat-free dinner.

Mushrooms, tarragon and mature cheddar are encased in puff pastry in our veggie sausage roll recipe creating an umami-rich snack. Find the recipe on bbcgoodfood.com.

Drizzle truffle oil over mushroom risotto or pasta for a touch of luxury. Or make our truffled mushroom pâté (find the recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

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Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist FAYE WEARS

Mushroom eggs benedict

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING

recipe ESTHER CLARK photograph DANIELLE WOOD

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next month Parsnips New ways with this winter staple, plus a warming soup idea in our big Christmas issue, on sale Thursday 28 October

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 21

r u o w Fo llo

7-DAY MEAL PLAN During busy weeks, you may feel you don’t have enough time to think about what you’re going to cook every night. However, setting aside an hour to plan a menu and shopping list at the start of the week will save you lots of time, and cuts down on food waste.

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We share some of the recipes we’re excited to cook from this issue and on bbcgoodfood.com

MEAL FOR ONE LUNCH Chicken satay salad

Kick off the week with a healthy energising breakfast. Top with fresh sesonal fruit. find the recipe online

Make a speedy lunch that’s healthy and filling to see you through the day. find the recipe online

Tuesday

BREAKFAST Easy protein pancakes

These paneer naans make a great meat-free Monday dinner. page 75

HEALTHY BAKE

POST-WORKOUT LUNCH Mixed bean salad Try our hearty and nutritious mixed bean salad with eggs for a protein-packed meal. page 66

Wednesday

DINNER Sticky paneer mango naans

AFTERNOON SNACK Vegan date & walnut flapjacks A nutty, vegan low-sugar snack, perfect for that 3pm slump. find the recipe online

SEASONAL SUPPER Creamy pumpkin pasta Showcase autumn squash by blitzing with mascarpone to make a silky, gently sweet pasta sauce. page 114

SUPER-EASY DESSERT

LUNCH Chiptole soup

DINNER Aloo chole

MIDWEEK PUD Baked rice pudding

This healthy and comforting soup is packed with veg, and the spices bring a touch of heat. page 64

Transform a can of chickpeas with this fragrant dish from Good Food reader Humayan Hussain. page 12

Cosy up with this nostalgic dessert.

Simply bung it in the oven while you make dinner. page 83

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VEGGIE WINNER

LUNCH Aubergine ragu

SNACK Fruity flapjack cookies

Cook a batch of this and you’ll have enough for two days. Serve with pasta or crusty bread. page 67

A cross between a flapjack and a coconut macaroon, these won’t last long in the biscuit tin! page 80

Dish up a comforting feast packed with umami flavour. page 38

DINNER Creamy mushroom lasagne

BAKE Sticky ginger cake

COCKTAIL Amaretto sour

FRIDAY NIGHT IN Cod, orzo & spicy sausage

Serve this warm with ice cream for a pudding and save the rest for enjoying with tea at the weekend. page 111

Having friends over? Shake up that Friday feeling with a retro cocktail.

Don’t forget the cherries! find the recipe online

A one-pot worth staying in for! It will be a guaranteed hit, especially as it only needs 15 mins prep. page 154

AUTUMNAL TREAT

Saturday

Friday

Thursday

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A TASTE OF JAMAICA

HALLOWEEN FUN Mini monster burgers

SATURDAY CHALLENGE Plantain puffs

Celebrating on 31 October? Get the kids involved with our deliciously spooky marshmallow bake. page 49

Throw the kids a Halloween-inspired party with our cute burgers. page 50

Our recipe makes up to 50 of these sweet morsels which is ideal if you’re entertaining. page 98

Sunday

COOKING PROJECT Halloween cheesecake

FAMILY DINNER BRUNCH Mushroom eggs benedict Use seasonal wild mushrooms in a special Sunday brunch to help you ease into the day. page 20

SUNDAY LUNCH Double sausage & bean casserole

DESSERT Chocolate pudding with chocolate custard

Our cover star makes a fabulous alternative Sunday lunch. page 32

No one will be able to resist this double chocolate pudding. page 40

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 23

aking a difference CHOCOLATE FOR CHANGE Celebrating the skills of artists with learning and physical needs

You can find out which artist designed each chocolate bar and other gifts at arthouseunlimited.org. @arthouse_unlimited

FREE Goody bag with GF Eats Out Our GF Eats Out events celebrate the British restaurant scene (this month, at Tom Kerridge’s The Bull & Bear, see page 13), and every month, we give away a goody bag worth £25, with treats such as Belazu harissa paste and Rude Health berry bars.

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A

fter working with adults living with complex epilepsy, Becky Sheraidah was so inspired by each person’s unique artistic talents that she launched a charity. Based in Surrey, Arthouse Unlimited supports people who live with complex neurodiverse and physical needs, through art. ‘Most people I worked with were susceptible to social exclusion, so artistic skills weren’t recognised,’ Becky explains. ‘There were limited

embrace each person for who they are.’

Arthouse sells the artwork and designs they make in the classes to sustain the charity, printed on homeware, like mugs and tea towels, and beautifully detailed chocolate bars. Working with a chocolatier in Somerset that uses ethically sourced cocoa, the charity helped develop flavours such as milk chocolate cheesecake, gold caramelised white chocolate, and dark chocolate with rosemary & almonds, while the artists designed the reusable golden Watching wrappers. All of the proceeds go towards the art classes. ‘Watching artwork artwork being sold boosts each being sold person’s self-belief,’ Becky says. ‘Over boosts the years, we’ve even seen a drop in self-belief the level of seizures, too. Most people have had serious operations from an early age, and often in and out of hospital. What’s outstanding is the artists’ incredible attitude to life; the joy and positivity so many share, even when each person has overcome adversity and experienced often unimaginable conditions. Care isn’t just about medical and physical; it’s emotional health, too. Being creative helps each person find calm – immersed in work, while joking with their teammates.’

One of Arthouse’s long-term artists, Stephen Thomson (pictured, bottom left), brings uplifting messages to his designs. He says, ‘I want to share messages like, “Believe in yourself. It doesn’t matter who you are.

We are all different”.’ As well as making exquisite chocolate with a wrapper you’ll want to frame, this charity proves that nobody should be limited by differences. MV

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OUR FOOD PICKS

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Our round-up of October’s food and drink must-haves

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Mojo Sauce mild sweet & smoky From £2.50 (250g), Ocado Fruity and smoky with a mild kick of heat, this Spanish-inspired sauce is made for dipping and marinating, but also works wonders stirred into hearty stews or chilli.

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Borough Broth Co tonkotsu ramen broth £5.45 (450g), Ocado Ramen broth takes skill and patience to make from scratch, but these pouches, made with organic ingredients, mean you can have an umami-laced ramen, layered with flavour, on the table in minutes.

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Hobbs House Bakery bake-at-home almond croissants £5 (pack of four), hobbshousebakery.co.uk These sweet, flaky croissants are filled with frangipane, scattered with flaked almonds and frozen, ready for baking at home. Get that buttery, freshly made pastry texture and a kitchen that smells like your favourite bakery, with zero effort.

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Crosta & Mollica crisp toasts £2.25 (100g), Waitrose & Partners With dinner parties back in full force, Crosta & Mollica’s range of aperitivo-style

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snacks are coming into their own. We love these light, crisp and moreish focaccia toasts. Serve them topped with some pre-meal nibbles.

Pip Organic sparkling apple £1.65 (250ml), Abel & Cole Made simply with organic apple juice and sparkling water, this isn’t your standard canned fizzy drink. Full of fresh-tasting, juicy flavour and fine, gentle bubbles, it’s a refreshing soft drink that the whole family will enjoy – and it even counts towards your five-a-day.

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Have you tried?

Compiled by JESS CARTER

Cold-pressed black garlic olive oil, made in Greece Black garlic is made by gently heating warm garlic over several weeks to develop and mellow the bulb’s punchy flavour. We’re seeing these dark, sticky bulbs crop up in new ways of late – think condiments, pickles and oils. Google searches have increased by 180%, while there’s been a 250% jump in people searching for its health benefits (which are thought to be many). Symposium’s black garlic olive oil is made in Greece by a British family with organic Greek olives. We love the deep and gentle flavour drizzled over pasta dishes and pizza, added to hummus or simply for dunking fresh, crusty bread into. £30 (500ml), etsy.com

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 25

RAISE A GLASS Our pick of must-try spirits and craft beer

beer

Wild Dog IPA Fauna is a new craft beer brand inspired by, and created for, African wildlife. Founded

by Phil F Howard, a former bush ranger in Botswana, each of the London-based company’s brews is dedicated to an endangered species, partnering with three small charities who work round-theclock to protect animals at risk.

As well as this hoppy and juicy Wild Dog IPA with flavours of tropical and stone fruit, the range includes a bright and grassy Cheetah lager (4.5% ABV); and Pango Table beer (2.8% ABV). 4.2% ABV, £2.70 (330ml), faunabrewing.com

boxed wine

Laylo Vino Rosso Vulcanico Online business Laylo is all about sourcing top-notch wines from indie winemakers and boxing them up to keep the carbon footprint to a minimum. We’ve been sipping on its Vino Rosso Vulcanico, made with grapes grown on Mount Etna. This vegan red is on the lighter-bodied side and is fresh with red fruit flavours.

The beautifully designed box contains three bottles’ worth of wine and stays fresh for up to six weeks after opening. As a bonus, the price includes next day delivery. 13% ABV, £36.99 (2.25l), drinklaylo.com

whiskey liqueur

Sheep Dog peanut butter whiskey liqueur After US and Australia launches, this sweet-salty drink has just landed in the UK. Softer and sweeter than straight-up whiskey – not to mention with lower ABVs – liqueurs are a great stepping stone into the world of the amber spirit. This number is all buttery and biscuity in its aroma with a peanutbutter-esque edge. Take a sip and you’ll notice its subtle savouriness which is rounded off with whispers of vanilla and butterscotch. Great to drink neat or mix into cocktails.

35% ABV, £22 (70cl), Tesco

gin

Chase raspberry & basil gin This Herefordshire distillery is known all over the country for its solid collection of gins and vodkas. Its latest release is this deep crimson-coloured gin, infused with raspberry and basil.

Take a whiff and you’ll instantly be hit with refreshing scents of juicy red fruit. The flavour – true to the berry – is sweet and tart with a bitter juniper backdrop, and the subtle suggestion of basil rounds things off on a herbaceous, fresh note. Sip neat over a large hunk of ice or mixed with tonic. 40% ABV, £44.99 (70cl), selfridges.com

,

Each month, we introduce you to the experts who create content for your favourite food brand

WE ARE ROOPA GULATI After living in India for two decades working as a chef at the Taj Hotel and as a writer and broadcaster, Roopa returned to the UK. She became Food Editor at UKTV’s Good Food Channel and was a restaurant reviewer for Time Out for 15 years. As a freelance journalist, she researches material for

26 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

television and contributes recipes to BBC Good Food. Her latest book is India: The World Vegetarian (Bloomsbury Absolute). She is currently writing a new book for the same publisher. Find her recipes for Diwali (which begins on 4 November), including cardamom biscuits and herby paneer parcels, on bbcgoodfood.com.

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T V chef

‘On a cold and drizzly afternoon, these crisp pakoras with a side of tamarind chutney – and the greedy fingers of family members rushing to grab the fresh batch out of the fryer – is my idea of broccoli heaven.’ Saliha Mahmood Ahmed

SALIHA MAHMOOD AHMED’S VEGGIE BITES

Try the MasterChef winner’s moreish snack

Broccoli pakoras SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

75g gram flour 1 heaped tbsp cornflour or rice flour ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp each cumin and coriander seeds, coarsely ground using a pestle and mortar 1 tsp nigella seeds 2 tbsp lemon juice 200g long-stemmed broccoli, roughly chopped into 3-4cm pieces vegetable oil, for deep-frying ½ tsp chaat masala and tamarind chutney or coriander green chutney (see tip right), to serve

1 Mix the gram flour, cornflour, bicarbonate of soda, chilli powder, ground cumin and coriander, nigella seeds and 1/2 tsp salt together in a bowl. Whisk in the lemon juice and just enough water to form a batter the consistency of double cream.

Mix the broccoli into the batter and stir to coat well.

2 Heat the vegetable oil in a large pan, ensuring it is no more than two-thirds full, or a deep-fat fryer until a drop of batter sizzles in the oil. Deep-fry the broccoli pieces in

small batches until crisp and the batter takes on a deep golden colour.

Remove and drain on kitchen paper while you make the next batch. This takes around 4-5 mins. Serve with a final sprinkling of chaat masala, if you like, and a side of tamarind or coriander chutney (see tip, right).

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • vit c • gluten free PER SERVING 200 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 1g • carbs 16g • sugars 2g • fibre 5g • protein 7g • salt 0.4g

tip Coriander green chutney To make your own green chutney for serving alongside the pakoras, blitz together 125g raw cashews with 125g golden sultanas, 60g chopped coriander, 75ml lemon juice, a green chilli and a sprinkling of salt until smooth.

TV & RADIO PICKS Saturday Kitchen Guest chefs this month include Gennaro Contaldo, Yotam Ottolenghi with his co-writer Noor Murad, pastry chef Ravneet Gill, MasterChef’s Monica Galetti, and the acclaimed chef Ollie Dabbous who heads up the Mayfair Hide restaurants and bars. Watch on BBC One from 10am or on BBC iPlayer.

Recipe adapted from Foodology

by Saliha Mahmood Ahmed (£20, Yellow Kite).

Photographs by Saliha Mahmood Ahmed and Manjit Riyat.

Saliha has been a guest chef on BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen.

by KATHRYN CUSTANCE

The Hairy Bikers Go North The north of England has become a magnet for food lovers, with some of the country’s top restaurants and most innovative food producers. In their new series, Si King and Dave Myers eat their way from Lancashire to Newcastle. Watch on Thursdays on BBC Two until 11 November and on BBC iPlayer.

The Kitchen Cabinet Jay Rayner’s culinary panel show is back to answer a fresh batch of listeners’ questions.

Along with useful advice on cooking and eating, the programme is always packed with tasty titbits and unusual food facts. Saturdays at 10.30am on BBC Radio 4 until 6 November and BBC Sounds.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 27

THIS MONTH’S

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Wish list

As the evenings become longer and temperatures start to fall, cosy up at home with our favourite autumnal kitchenware

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2 3 7

6 4

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For more product reviews and gift guides, visit bbcgoodfood.com/reviews HK Living noodle bowls (set of four) £49, folkinteriors.co.uk These bowls marry neutral green, brown and beige tones for an earthy colour palette that nods to mid-century style.

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Olive wood ladle £29, conranshop.co.uk Made by hand from Mediterranean olive wood, this rustic, smoothly shaped ladle with its lovely wood grain is just the thing for serving wholesome soups or stews.

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MW Ceramics peach leaf plate £20, wearthlondon.com Handmade by a UK-based ceramicist, this side plate is imprinted with a fig leaf and finished in a gorgeous peach glaze.

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28 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Smeg milk frother £149, John Lewis & Partners This retro-look frother has an option specifically for making velvety-smooth, decadent hot chocolate – perfect for warming up with as the temperatures drop. The transparent lid means you can watch the whisks at work, too.

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These beautifully designed mills are made for spices, grains, nuts and seeds as well as salt and pepper – great for creating warming, freshly ground spice blends. We love the sleek, matt finish and walnut top.

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Blackbird pie funnel £3.99, souschef.com It’s officially pie season. This cute little porcelain blackbird releases the steam from beneath the crust of your pie as it bakes.

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Walton & Co oven cloth £4.49, waltonshop.co.uk This cloth is designed for pulling bubbling casseroles out of the oven and placing them on at the table, and will add some lovely rustic texture to your kitchen, too.

Amber glass tumblers (set of four) £20, fiveanddime-interiors.com Tinted the colour of autumn leaves, these glass tumblers will help bring the outdoors in this season, not to mention update your table with their on-trend ribbed design.

Menu salt and pepper grinders (set of two) £59.95, beut.co.uk

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BOOKS FOR COOKS What Fiona Forman is cooking this month SALMON WELLINGTON

One Pot: Three Ways

by Rachel Ama (£22, Yellow Kite) Add some sunshine to your winter cooking with Rachel Ama’s big, bold Caribbean, African and Asian flavours. In this vegan book, each centrepiece dish (perfect for batchcooking on a Sunday) is made in one pot, pan or tray, with three ways to serve it, transforming it into a different dish each time. Genius!

Must-try recipe Caribbean curried jack with coconut flatbreads, tomato & red onion salad

Recipe photograph JAMES MURPHY

Rick Stein at Home by Rick Stein (£26, BBC Books)

10-minute Sourdough

During lockdown, Rick rediscovered the importance of cooking at home and spending time with family during a time when, ‘the almost limitless possibilities of modern life had been suddenly shut down’. Here, he reflects on that time and shares his favourite recipes from his life, from childhood favourites including his mum’s chicken risotto and apple charlotte, to dishes from his travels in India and Southeast Asia, as well as fish and seafood recipes from his BBC series, Rick Stein’s Cornwall.

Must-try recipe Salmon wellington with a white wine & cream sauce

by Vanessa Kimbell (£18.99, Kyle Books) I love sourdough but am often put off by how long it takes to make. With this book, expert baker Vanessa simplifies the process and proves slow bread can be made every day, with no-knead seasonal recipes for breads, pizza and cake, all requiring just 10-minutes hands-on time. A great introduction to sourdough baking.

Must-try recipe Hummus & olive flatbread

MORE FROM BBC GOOD FOOD Homemade Christmas magazine Kick-start your festive prep with Christmas menus, décor ideas and more. On sale 27 August, £5.99.

On your tablet Download our interactive app at the Apple App Store.

Good Food how-to videos Sharpen your cookery skills with our videos. Find over 200 at bbcgoodfood. com/feature/videos.

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OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 29

cover story

October is for curling up with something hearty and warming to eat. Our autumnal ideas will satisfy your cravings, from our sausage-and-bean cover star, to a rich coq au vin pie and a chocolate sponge pudding with homemade custard. It’s time to welcome in the colder evenings recipes GOOD FOOD TEAM photographs MYLES NEW

comfort classics

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 31

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Double sausage & bean casserole with cheese-on-toast crumbs While simple to make, this one-pot still feels special enough for celebrating occasions like Halloween and Bonfire Night. Or, if you’re simply in a rut when it comes to cooking family meals, even the fussiest of eaters will enjoy this. It combines several favourites that are all simmered together with added smokiness from chorizo, plus it reheats well if your family has a busy schedule and everyone eats at different times.

SERVES 4-6 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr EASY

3 tbsp olive oil 8 pork sausages 2 small cooking chorizo (about 100g), sliced 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 bay leaves 1 tbsp tomato purée ½ tsp light brown muscovado sugar 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 x 400g cans cannellini beans or any other white beans, drained but not rinsed For the cheese-on-toast crumbs 50g crustless white bread, torn into chunks 15g parmesan, finely grated 2 tbsp thyme leaves

32 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a shallow flameproof casserole over a medium heat and fry the pork sausages for 10 mins until browned on all sides. Transfer to a plate.

Drizzle another 1 tbsp oil into the casserole, scatter in the chorizo and cook for 3-4 mins until beginning to crisp up and release its oil. Add the onions and bay, and cook for 5 mins more until the onions are soft.

2 Stir in the tomato purée and scatter over the sugar. Turn up the heat to medium-high and cook for another 2 mins until sticky and jammy, then splash in the vinegar.

Simmer for 1 min more, then tip in the tomatoes and beans. Stir, then bring to a simmer. Nestle the

sausages in the sauce and pour over any of the resting juices. Bake uncovered for 30 mins.

3 Meanwhile, make the crumbs. Tip the bread and parmesan into a food processor and pulse with half the thyme to a chunky texture. Scatter the crumbs over a baking sheet and drizzle with the remaining oil. Bake alongside the casserole for 10 mins, stirring the crumbs once or twice until crisp and golden. Scatter the crumbs over the casserole with the rest of the thyme just before serving, or serve on the side for everyone to help themselves.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 448 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 8g • carbs 28g • sugars 8g • fibre 8g • protein 21g • salt 1.8g

cover story

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 33

Coq au vin pie & creamy chive mash With chicken, bacon and mushrooms in a velvety, rich red wine sauce, coq au vin is the ultimate winter warmer. Wrapping this French classic in pastry is not traditional, of course, but it adds texture and, paired with creamy mash, it’s like a hug on a plate.

SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins plus at least 1 hr 30 mins chilling COOK 1 hr 50 mins MORE EFFORT G pie only, unbaked

1 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp butter 8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, chopped into chunky pieces 50g bacon lardons 1 onion, chopped 2 medium carrots, thickly sliced 150g button mushrooms 2 tbsp plain flour 3 thyme sprigs, tied together with kitchen string 1 bay leaf 150ml red wine 500ml hot chicken stock 2 tsp cornflour For the pastry 400g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp fine salt 180g cold butter, cut into cubes 2 eggs, beaten For the mash 1kg Maris Piper potatoes, cut into large even-sized chunks 30g butter 50ml whole milk, warmed ½ bunch of chives, finely chopped

1 Heat the oil and butter in a flameproof casserole over a medium heat and fry the chicken and bacon lardons for 10-15 mins, or until evenly browned. Add the onion,

carrots and mushrooms, and fry for 5 mins more. Stir in the plain flour and cook for 2 mins, then add the thyme and bay. Slowly stir in the wine and bring to a simmer, then add the stock, a little at a time, stirring between each addition.

Season and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Reduce the heat to low. Cook for 30 mins, then remove the lid and cook for 15 mins more. Spoon a little of the sauce into a small bowl and mix with the cornflour, then stir this back into the coq au vin. Remove the thyme and bay. Leave to cool for 1 hr.

2 To make the pastry, tip the flour, salt and butter into a food processor and pulse to fine crumbs. Add half the beaten egg and 2 tbsp ice-cold water and pulse again until the dough just comes together. Add an extra 1 tbsp water if the pastry feels dry. Tip onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly until you have a uniform dough, then wrap and chill for at least 1 hr.

3 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Cut off a quarter of the pastry and roll it into a long strip on a lightly floured surface. Attach the strip of dough around the lip of a 26cm pie dish using a little of the remaining beaten egg, and use any offcuts to make decorations, if you like (we cut out a crescent and scored it to make a chicken decoration). Roll the remaining pastry out into a 30cm circle, about

34 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

5mm thick. Spoon the filling into the dish and use the rolling pin to lift the pastry circle over the dish.

Crimp the edges in a decorative pattern to seal or do this with a fork.

At this stage, the pie can be wrapped and frozen for up to three months.

Defrost in the fridge overnight, then continue as below. Brush with most of the remaining beaten egg and attach any decorations. Chill for 30 mins, then brush with the rest of the egg. Bake in the centre of the oven for 35-40 mins until the pastry is golden and the filling is piping hot. Leave to rest for 10 mins.

4 Meanwhile, make the mash. Put the potatoes in a large saucepan with a large pinch of salt, cover with cold water and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook for 15-20 mins until the tip of a knife can be easily inserted. Drain and leave to steam-dry for 5 mins, then pass through a potato ricer or sieve, or mash with a potato masher. Fold in the butter, warm milk and chives.

Season. Serve the pie with the mash.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 925 kcals • fat 45g • saturates 24g • carbs 88g • sugars 5g • fibre 7g • protein 33g • salt 2.4g

cover story

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 35

Kimchi double-cheese toasties Korean fermented cabbage, or kimchi, is a favourite ingredient of the Good Food team – and it’s especially good in a melting cheese toastie.

That sour, spicy tang cuts through the rich cheese for a match made in comfort-food heaven. It’s also a great introduction to kimchi if you haven’t tried it. It’s now available in most large supermarkets, or find it online.

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

100g mature cheddar, grated 70g emmental or mozzarella, grated 3 spring onions, trimmed and sliced 2 tbsp mayonnaise 4 slices white sourdough 180g kimchi, drained 1 tsp sesame seeds (optional)

1 Combine the cheddar with the emmental or mozzarella and the spring onions in a small bowl.

2 Spread the mayonaise over one side of each slice of sourdough. Pile the cheese mixture over the plain sides of the bread, then spoon over the kimchi. Sandwich the slices together so the mayo-coated sides are on the outside, then sprinkle with sesame seeds, if using. Heat a large frying pan or skillet over a medium heat. Arrange the toasties in the hot pan and weigh them down with another heavy pan. Cook for 4-6 mins, then turn over and cook for 5 mins more. Cut in half to serve.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 788 kcals • fat 42g • saturates 19g • carbs 63g • sugars 6g • fibre 5g • protein 37g • salt 4.4g

36 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

tips • If you can’t find kimchi at your local supermarket or fancy making your own, find a recipe at bbcgoodfood.com.

• Keep an eye on the toasties – don’t be tempted to turn the heat up too high, or they will catch and burn. Always weigh them down with something heavy, like a saucepan, to ensure even browning.

cover story

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 37

Creamy mushroom lasagne For many, lasagne means pasta and a rich beef ragu beneath creamy white sauce, but the ragu doesn’t have to be meat-based. Here, mushrooms give it satisfying texture and flavour. A mixture of dried porcini, blitzed chestnut and oyster and shiitake mushrooms makes the ragu deeply savoury, plus a secret ingredient – tomato ketchup – brings just a note of salty-sweetness.

SERVES 8-10 PREP 40 mins COOK 1 hr 40 mins MORE EFFORT V

1 tbsp olive oil 400g dried lasagne sheets 200g grated mozzarella or vegan alternative For the mushroom ragu 25g dried porcini mushrooms 800g chestnut mushrooms 2 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 400g mixed mushrooms (we used oyster and shiitake), sliced 4 large garlic cloves, crushed ½ small bunch of thyme, leaves picked 250ml red wine 250ml passata 2 tbsp ketchup 2 tbsp paprika For the béchamel 50g butter or vegan alternative 1 bay leaf 50g plain flour 600ml whole milk or oat milk 3 tbsp crème fraîche or vegan alternative grating of nutmeg

heat and fry the onions, carrots and chopped chestnut mushrooms with a pinch of salt for 15 mins until the water released by the mushrooms has evaporated, stirring now and then. The mushrooms should be a deep brown colour and the other veg should be soft and slightly coloured.

3 Add the mixed mushrooms, garlic and most of the thyme, and cook for another 5 mins until the mushrooms have started to soften.

Drain the rehydrated porcini, add the soaking liquid to the pan, then finely chop the porcini and add that too. Stir in the wine, passata, ketchup and paprika to combine.

Simmer for 25 mins until the ragu has reduced and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season generously with sea salt flakes and a grinding of black pepper.

4 Meanwhile, make the béchamel.

Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat, then add the bay and cook for a minute. Scatter in the flour and stir until you have a sticky paste. Add the milk in stages, whisking between each addition until you have a thick sauce.

1 For the ragu, put the dried porcini mushrooms in a heatproof mug and cover with 125ml boiling water from the kettle. Set aside. Finely chop the chestnut mushrooms or blitz in a food processor to fine pieces.

2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan or flameproof casserole over a high

38 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Reduce the heat to low and cook for 3-4 mins, stirring occasionally until the sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon. Remove the bay, then mix in the crème fraîche, a generous grating of nutmeg and seasoning.

5 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Rub the olive oil over the base and sides of a large ceramic baking dish (ours was 35 x 20 x 6cm).

Arrange a layer of lasagne sheets in the base (you may need to break them so they fit), then spoon over a layer of the mushroom ragu, drizzle with some of the béchamel, and scatter over a handful of the mozzarella. Repeat until you have used all the ragu and the final layer of lasagne sheets, then smooth over a thick layer of béchamel. Sprinkle over the remaining mozzarella and bake for 40-45 mins until the filling is bubbling and the top is golden.

Leave to rest for 10 mins, then sprinkle with the remaining thyme leaves before serving.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (10) 426 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 9g • carbs 44g • sugars 9g • fibre 6g • protein 16g • salt 0.5g

cover story

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 39

Retro chocolate sponge pudding with chocolate custard Wander down memory lane with this pudding, a childhood favourite for many. Warm, fluffy chocolate sponge is served with lashings of rich, creamy chocolate custard. It’s such a simple dessert, but it’s one that’s sure to raise a smile for anyone you share it with, and that’s what comfort food is all about.

Shoot directors BEN CURTIS & SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist LUIS PERAL

SERVES 8-12 PREP 25 mins COOK 50 mins MORE EFFORT V G sponge only

225g butter, softened, plus extra for the tin 225g light brown soft sugar 4 medium eggs 175g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 50g cocoa powder 75ml milk For the custard 200ml double cream 500ml whole milk 1 ½ tbsp cornflour 85g caster sugar 2 tbsp cocoa powder 2 medium eggs, plus 2 egg yolks (freeze the whites for another recipe)

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 and line a 20 x 20cm cake tin with baking parchment. Beat the butter, sugar and a pinch of salt together in a large bowl using an electric whisk for 5 mins until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating between each addition until incorporated and the mixture is a mousse-like consistency.

2 Sieve the flour, baking powder and cocoa over the wet ingredients, then tip in the milk and fold everything together with a spatula until there are no floury streaks remaining.

3 Scrape the mixture into the prepared tin and level the surface with the spatula. Bake for 40 mins, then check the sponge is cooked by inserting a skewer into the centre.

If it comes out with any sticky cake mixture attached, return the sponge to the oven for another 5-10 mins and check again. Leave to cool slightly in the tin. To freeze, leave to cool completely, then wrap well and freeze for up to two months. Defrost at room temperature, then reheat as stated in the tip below.

4 Meanwhile, make the custard.

Heat the cream and milk in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat – don’t let it boil.

Combine the cornflour, sugar and cocoa in a large bowl, then whisk in the eggs and yolks, one at a time, until you have a smooth paste.

When the cream mixture is hot and steaming, pour a splash into the cocoa paste to loosen it, then tip this back into the cream mixture.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring continuously until the custard is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon – you should be able to draw a line through the custard on the back of the spoon using your fingertip. Remove from the heat and sieve the custard into a jug to remove any lumps. Cover the surface with a circle of baking parchment to prevent a skin forming. Cut the warm sponge into squares and serve with the custard for pouring over.

PER SERVING (12) 485 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 18g • carbs 42g • sugars 28g • fibre 2g • protein 9g • salt 0.4g

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tip MAKE AHEAD The sponge can be made up to two days ahead. Once baked, leave to cool and store in an airtight container. Cover individual portions with a plate or microwave-safe lid and reheat in the microwave for 20-30 seconds. Or, reheat the entire cake in the oven.

Splash a few drops of water over the surface and wrap in foil. Bake at 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 for 15 mins until hot and steamy. The custard can also be made up to two days ahead. Chill in the fridge and reheat in a pan over a low heat, stirring until piping hot.

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next month & Does comfort food really comfort us?

Graihagh Jackson explores why we turn to certain foods for a pick-me-up with the help of psychologist Shira Gabriel and psychiatrist Lukas Van Oudenhove for The Food Chain on BBC World Service. To listen, search ‘The Food Chain comfort eating’ on BBC Sounds.

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easy family

Q Mini pumpkin & feta pies page 51

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47

simple recipes for busy weekdays

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page 64 OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 47

family

happy halloween Throw a spooky party on 31 October for your little monsters using our creepy-cute recipe ideas – they’re sure to scare up some fun recipes CASSIE BEST photographs MIKE ENGLISH

Mini monster burgers, p50

48 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

easy family

Spooky Halloween marshmallow cheesecake SERVES 12 PREP 30 mins plus at least 2 hrs chilling COOK 1 hr 30 mins MORE EFFORT V

300g crème-filled chocolate sandwich biscuits 75g butter, melted 180g white mini marshmallows (ensure vegetarian, if needed) 50ml milk 500g full-fat soft cheese 200ml double cream 1 tsp vanilla extract For the meringue ghosts 2 egg whites 200g caster sugar black writing icing or edible ink pen

1 Tip the biscuits into a food processor and blitz to fine crumbs.

Pour in the melted butter and blitz again to combine. Line the side of a deep 20cm springform or loose-bottomed cake tin with baking parchment. Tip in the crumb mixture and press it into the base and up the side of the tin using the back of a spoon. You should be able to press the mixture about halfway up the side, but don’t worry if the edge is slightly uneven – this will add a spookily craggy effect to the cheesecake. Chill in the fridge while you make the filling.

2 Tip the marshmallows and milk into a saucepan set over a lowmedium heat and stir until the marshmallows have melted.

Leave to cool for a few minutes.

3 Tip the soft cheese, cream and vanilla extract into a large bowl and beat together using an electric whisk. Pour in the still-warm marshmallow mixture and mix again until smooth. Remove the chilled biscuit base from the fridge and scrape in the marshmallow cheesecake filling. Smooth the top and chill for at least 2 hrs.

Will keep chilled for up to a day.

4 Heat the oven to 120C/100C fan/ gas 1 and line a baking tray with baking parchment. Put the egg whites in a large, clean bowl with a pinch of salt and beat with an electric whisk until foamy – they should hold soft peaks when you lift out the beaters. Beat in the sugar 1 tbsp at a time until fully incorporated and the meringue is thick, shiny and holding stiff peaks.

5 Spoon the meringue into a piping bag fitted with a large round nozzle.

Holding the nozzle directly above the lined tray, pipe little blobs to make the meringue ghosts. Bake for 1 hr 30 mins, then leave to cool.

6 When the meringues are cool, use an icing pen to draw faces on them.

Carefully remove the cheesecake from the tin and put on a plate or cake stand. Arrange the ghosts on top just before serving. Will keep in the fridge for up to two days.

PER SERVING 479 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 17g • carbs 48g • sugars 37g • fibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.6g

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 49

Mini monster burgers SERVES 8 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

vegetable oil, for the baking tray 8 beef meatballs 8 small seeded rolls, split 1 Little Gem lettuce 2 slices cheddar ¼ small cucumber (about 4cm long) 16 cornichons 16 pimento-stuffed green olives ketchup, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Line a baking tray with foil and drizzle with a little oil. Arrange the meatballs over the tray, spaced apart, and squash into flat patties using the palm of your hand.

Turn the patties over and rub in the oil, then bake for 15 mins.

2 Meanwhile, top the base of each roll with a small lettuce leaf. Halve the cheese slices lengthways in a zig-zag to make ‘teeth’, then cut in half again crosswise so you have eight rows. Cut the cucumber into thin slices on the diagonal to make tongues. Push a cocktail stick into each of the cornichons, lengthways, to make the horns and halfway through the olives to create the effect of eyeballs on stalks.

3 Add a burger patty to each of the lettuce-lined buns, followed by a cucumber tongue, cheese teeth and drizzle of ketchup, then sandwich with the tops of the buns. Stick the olive eyes and cornichon horns into the tops of the buns.

PER SERVING 205 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 2g • carbs 20g • sugars 3g • fibre 4g • protein 12g • salt 1g

50 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

easy family

Mini pumpkin & feta pies MAKES 6 PREP 40 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins MORE EFFORT V ❄

450g butternut squash or pumpkin peeled and cut into 2cm chunks (prepared weight) 2 garlic cloves 2 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting ½ tsp ground turmeric 125g cold butter, cut into small pieces, plus extra for the tin 2 egg yolks, plus 1 whole egg, beaten (use the leftover whites to make the meringues on p49) grating of nutmeg ½ tsp chilli flakes (optional) 200g feta, crumbled

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Tip the squash and unpeeled garlic into a roasting tin, drizzle with 1 tbsp oil, season and toss to coat. Roast for 30 mins, stirring halfway through, until soft. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

2 Meanwhile, cook the onion in a frying pan over a medium heat with the remaining 1 tbsp oil for 8-10 mins until tender and slightly golden. Leave to cool.

3 Tip the flour, turmeric and a pinch of salt into a food processor. Add the butter and whizz until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Add the egg yolks and 2 tsp cold water, and blitz again until the mixture starts to clump together. Squeeze it between your fingers – if it sticks together, tip the mixture onto a work surface.

If it’s too dry, add more water, 1 tsp

at a time. Knead the pastry a few times just to bring it together, but don’t overwork it. Shape into two circles, one slightly smaller than the other, then wrap in baking parchment and chill in the fridge for at least 20 mins.

4 Squeeze the garlic from its skins into the roasted squash and mash together. Add the fried onion, grate over some nutmeg, tip in the chilli flakes, if using, and feta, and mix.

5 Butter six holes of a muffin tin and line each with a strip of baking parchment that overhangs the top.

Roll the larger circle of pastry out on a lightly floured surface to the thickness of a £1 coin. Use a 10cm cutter to stamp out six circles (you may need to re-roll the pastry to get all six). Press the pastry circles into the prepared muffin tin, patching

any cracks with the pastry offcuts.

Spoon in the squash filling.

6 Roll the remaining pastry circle out as you did the large one, but use an 8cm cutter to cut out six lids. Cut spooky pumpkin faces into the lids using a small, sharp knife. Press the lids over the pies in the tin and brush with the beaten egg. Bake for 40 mins until golden brown, then leave to cool for 10 mins in the tin before lifting out. Eat hot or leave to cool completely. Will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to two days or the freezer for up to two months. Reheat in a low oven for 10 mins, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 493 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 17g • carbs 40g • sugars 5g • fibre 4g • protein 12g • salt 1.3g

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 51

Freaky fruit platter SERVES 12 PREP 30 mins plus chilling NO COOK EASY V

For the mummy bananas 70g white chocolate, plus extra for sticking on the eyeballs 3 small bananas, peeled and cut in half crosswise eyeball cake decorations or black writing icing or edible ink pen For the tangerine pumpkins small piece of celery 6 small tangerines, peeled For the apple fangs 1 red apple, cored and cut into 6 wedges 2 tbsp nut butter (we used almond) 25g yogurt-coated raisins For the lychee eyeballs 425g can lychees in juice, drained 150g blueberries eyeball cake decorations or skewers For the grape snakes 250g black and green grapes

52 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

short wooden skewers black writing icing or edible ink pen, or eyeball cake decorations

1 For the mummy bananas, melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a small pan of simmering water or in the microwave in 20-second bursts. Cool to room temperature.

Put the bananas on a tray lined with baking parchment and drizzle over the chocolate in a criss-cross pattern to make ‘bandages’. Stick on the eyeball decorations or use black icing or an edible ink pen to draw the eyes on the bananas, then chill until set, about 30 mins (they will start to discolour after about 2 hrs).

2 For the tangerine pumpkins, cut tiny ‘stalks’ from the celery piece and push these into the tops of the tangerines where the segments come together.

3 For the apple fangs, cut a small wedge from the peel side of the apple wedges to make lips, then fill

the ‘mouth’ with the nut butter. Push the raisins into the mouth to look like wonky teeth.

4 For the lychee eyeballs, stuff each lychee with a blueberry. Stick the eyeball decorations onto the blueberry using some of the melted white chocolate from step 1, or skewer the fruit together. If you like, drop these into a punch bowl.

5 For the grape snakes, thread alternating green and red grapes onto skewers, then stick on eyeball decorations with white chocolate as in step four.

6 Arrange the freaky fruits on a large serving platter. Fill gaps with any leftover blueberries and decorate with spooky Halloween figures and decorations, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 131 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 2g • carbs 21g • sugars 20g • fibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.03g

easy family

Gory guts pizza tear ‘n’ share bread SERVES 8-10 PREP 30 mins plus at least 2 hrs 30 mins proving COOK 1 hr 15 mins MORE EFFORT V ❄ tomato sauce only

Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food and prop stylist AMY KINNEAR

500g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast 2 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes ½ tsp dried oregano 250g grated mozzarella or cheddar, or use a mixture pizza fillings of your choice (we used olives and ham) 2 tbsp herby garlic butter

1 Tip the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast to one side of the bowl and 2 tsp salt to the other. Pour in 300ml warm water and mix with a wooden spoon or in a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook until you have a soft dough (you may need to add up to 25ml more water if the dough seems dry). Knead on a lightly floured work surface for 10 mins or in the mixer for 5 mins until you have a soft, stretchy dough. Rub a little of the oil over the ball of dough, then put it in a clean bowl and cover with a tea towel. Leave to prove in a warm place for 2 hrs, or chill overnight (or for up to 24 hrs).

2 Heat the remaining oil in a pan over a medium heat and sizzle the garlic for 30 seconds – don’t let it brown. Add the tomatoes, oregano and 2 tsp sugar. Season well. Reduce the heat to low-medium and bubble for 20-30 mins until the sauce is thick and rich. Use a potato masher to squash any remaining lumps of tomato into the sauce. Leave to cool until ready to use. Once completely cool, will keep in the fridge in an airtight container for up to three days or the freezer for six months.

3 When you’re ready to assemble, spread the sauce over the base of a large roasting tin or baking dish (ours was 40 x 30cm). Roll the dough out on a floured surface into a 60 x 30cm rectangle. Cut the rectangle in half lengthways so you have two smaller rectangles measuring 15 x 30cm. Pile the cheese along the centre of each rectangle and add any pizza

toppings you like. Pinch the long sides of the rectangles together to enclose the fillings – do this carefully so you don’t break the dough. Squeeze along the length of each long sausage to make sure they are well-sealed, and gently stretch them out to make them slightly longer. Arrange the dough sausages over the sauce seam-side down, wiggling them into the shape of intestines but leaving a little space between for the bread to expand as it bakes. Cover and leave to prove at room temp for 30 mins or chill for up to 8 hrs. Heat the oven to 200C/180C/gas 6.

4 Bake for 45 mins until the bread is golden brown. Brush with the herby garlic butter, then leave to cool for at least 10 mins before serving.

GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (10) 327 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 6g • carbs 42g • sugars 4g • fibre 3g • protein 14g • salt 1.6g

& Family fun for Halloween If you’re looking for some child-friendly spooky viewing there are plenty of CBBC and CBeebies programmes to choose from on BBC iPlayer including Halloween specials of Go Buster, Fireman Sam, The Worst Witch, Danger Mouse and Millie Inbetween. Search ‘Halloween’ on BBC iPlayer.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 53

WHEN IT COMES TO COOKING

CHILDREN LEAD THE WAY The pandemic changed the way we shop, cook and eat in the past year, but our UK-wide Good Food Nation survey of more than 3,000 adults and children reveals that it also impacted how our kids interact with food words KEITH KENDRICK

C

hildren are taking on more of the family cooking and encouraging their parents to look to the future for more sustainable ways to eat.

Far from being a nation of fussy eaters, almost three-quarters (73%) of five- to 16-year-olds said they want to eat different kinds of foods and cook (74%) or bake more (77%) – perhaps because of boredom from being stuck indoors during the pandemic. New lifestyle and eating habits were adopted by children due to the pandemic, too, with 59% enjoying baking, 50% making their own breakfast and 46% preparing their own lunch.

A significant number want to see a revolution in the way food is produced, including meals being prepared by robots, a move to a meat-free lifestyle, a ban on sea fishing and all food being made in labs. Some even want to follow an insect-based diet in the next 10 years, while others are vegan or want to follow a plant-based diet.

These are some of the key findings from the 2021 Good Food Nation report, which asked 2,003 adults and 1,004 children (aged five to 16) about their eating habits

and lifestyle aspirations. The survey also found that kids are more environmentally aware. With the ever-growing threat of climate change, more children have taken an interest in what we eat and its impact on the planet. Nearly three in five (57%) said paying attention to where their food comes from and how it’s prepared has become more important since the pandemic began, and twothirds (66%) said helping save the planet has become more important.

In fact, one in 12 (8%) children surveyed now follow a vegan diet while

Children have taken an interest in what we eat and its impact on the planet

15% would like to be vegan, and 13% are vegetarian while just over a fifth (21%) would like to be.

Part of this is down to health concerns, which isn’t surprising given the devastating impact covid-19 has had on the population – in fact, 73% of children said looking after their health has become more important, with just over two-thirds (67%) saying eating a healthy, balanced diet is a priority.

Despite their desire to get more involved in the kitchen, there’s still work to be done, as many kids lack knowledge or skills. Over two-thirds (68%) know how to make toast and over half know how to heat food in a microwave, make a cup of tea or

family survey

8%

How kids want the world of food to change in 10 years

All produced in a lab

44% No plastic packaging 25% Delivered by drones 22% Shopping will be

25%

Delivered by drones

completely online

21% Food prepared by robots 10% No meat 9% No sea fishing 8% All produced in a lab 7% Insect-based diet

How children claimed the kitchen during the pandemic

7%

Insect-based diet

22%

watched online cooking tutorials

59% did some baking

59% Did some baking 50% Made their own breakfast 46% Made their own lunch 36% Cooked more with their parents 26% Made their own dinner 22% Watched online cooking tutorials/videos

10% Ate less meat and more plant-based foods 9% Cooked with family or friends on video call

The top 10 cooking tasks kids can do Make toast Heat food in the microwave

can chop vegetables Chop vegetables Make a salad chop vegetables, but fewer lack the confidence to heat food on the hob (40%) or in the oven (37%). Watch this space for a new series in which we’ll inspire kids to learn new skills.

Tell us how your family cooking dynamic has changed and if your kids have taken an interest in the kitchen – join the BBC Good Food Together group on Facebook or email us at goodfoodmagazine@ immediate.co.uk.

60% can make a packed lunch

40% Heat food on the hob 37% Heat food in the oven

For more insights into how our food lives have changed, including food waste, gadgets, shopping and more, go to

bbcgoodfood.com/good-food-nation The research was conducted by Censuswide with a national representative sample of 2,003 adults (aged 16+) and 1,004 children aged five to 16 (parents must be 20+). Fieldwork was carried out between 16-19 July 2021. Censuswide abide by and employ members of the Market Research Society, which is based on the ESOMAR principles.

Photographs GETTY/TOM WERNER/DIGITALVISION, GETTY/SOLSTOCK/E+,

51%

Make a packed lunch

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 55

GETTY/JULESINGALL/MOMENT, GETTY/VISUALSPACE/E+,GETTY/PAPAKON MITSANIT/MOMENT, GETTY/IMGORTHAND/E+

Now that we know kids across the nation are keen to get into the kitchen, we’ll be looking for new ways to support the next generation of chefs. Look out for a new series in which we’ll skill them up so they can get involved.

19% Tried a new cuisine

GETTY/DORLING KINDERSLEY: RICHARD LEENEY, GETTY/AZMANJAKA/E+, GETTY/VGAJIC/ E+,

22% Cooked a meal for their family

Sea the world Is your wanderlust calling? When it comes to getting back out there, nothing compares to a Marella cruise

ew holidays offer the freedom that a Marella cruise does – especially if you’re a keen foodie. Just picture it; one day you’re tucking into an authentic Spanish tortilla on the cosmopolitan streets of Barcelona, the next you’re sipping wine amongst the verdant vineyards of southern France.Paradise, right?

Naturally, you’ve missed exploring – with Marella Cruises, you can set sail to more than 200 destinations worldwide. With its burgeoning roster of ancient cities and tropical islands, and even awe-inspiring rainforests and culture-sprinkled coastlines, your next adventure is beckoning.

F

BEYOND THE SEA Marella Cruises knows there’s a lot to see – and eat – out there and it’s devoted to helping you experience the very best of it. On the western Mediterranean route, you can let your taste buds guide you as you dock at some of the world’s most renowned culinary hotspots. Say “buon appetito!” as you tuck into some of the finest Italian cooking in Rome, or sit in the shadows of Palma’s beautiful architecture and indulge in mouthwatering tapas in Majorca.

Of course, the eastern Mediterranean is also vast and full of gourmet treasures. In Corfu, you’ll find a welcome blend of upscale restaurants and rustic, family-run tavernas.

Whichever eatery you choose, you can be sure they all have one thing in common: delicious Greek cuisine you’ll savour long after your cruise is over.

Then there’s Croatia, home to an award-winning selection of wines and olive oils and a new breed of chefs who are bringing a more adventurous approach to the table.

If you want to venture a little further afield, the Caribbean and Central America route is perfect. Immerse yourself in the beauty of Costa Rica’s jungles and bite into exotic fruit and veg you’d be hard-pushed to find anywhere else. Or perhaps you’d prefer your fresh fruit puréed into a delectable cocktail that you can enjoy while relaxing on a flawless beach in St Kitts?

MEET THE FLEET The luxury doesn’t end when you’re back on board your Marella ship. Along with world-class entertainment, you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to dining. Try Kora La, a sleek restaurant

REST ASSURED that specialises in pan-Asian favourites and first-class sushi. Fine-dining enthusiasts will relish The Dining Club, the home of high-end cuisine, where delights include seared scallops with champagne butter and succulent chateaubriand for two. Heaven!

After dinner, you can continue the good times at flagship venue Indigo, a swanky bar, club and casino all-inone, offering stunning panoramic sea views. If you want to slow it down, how does a film under the stars at Marella’s open-air cinema sound? Across the entire fleet, you can expect smart, contemporary décor in both public and private spaces, so you feel at home and out somewhere special all at once.

THE MARELLA DIFFERENCE From the moment you step on board a Marella cruise, you’ll find a warm and welcoming atmosphere – though the team will look out for you long before you set sail. Whether you book at one of the nationwide TUI stores, by phone or online, the process is quick and easy, so you can focus on the best bit – getting ready for your well-deserved holiday!

What’s more, every cruise is allinclusive as standard, so you won’t have to worry about budgeting – and that includes tipping. Unlike most other cruise lines, Marella Cruises include tips and service charges, which means no more having to carry extra cash.

It also offers several ways to choose how you cruise. From adults-only to flexible durations, you can make your trip as individual as you are.

Marella knows these are unique times, so it’s put in place a number of policies to help make you feel safe and secure when booking a cruise.

• The package refund guarantee means you’re entitled to your money back within 14 days if your cruise is cancelled.

• If you or someone in your party is not able to travel due to contracting COVID-19, or you are officially required to self-isolate at the time of your departure, you will be able to change your holiday without charge.

• As always, your safety is Marella’s number one priority. That’s why there will be considered measures in place to protect you – as well as the crew – from COVID-19.

To find out more about how you can cruise with confidence, head to tui.co.uk/destinations/info/cruise -with-confidence.

Ready to plan your trip?

Visit tui.co.uk/cruise or call 0203 636 1862 today

New!

family

close connections In this new series, we talk to families and friends whose love of food has brought them closer together. Here, Julia Adamson and her daughter Lexie share the story behind Lexie’s website, lexiecooks.com words PUNTEHA VAN TERHEYDEN

Lexie and mum Julia dream of opening a café together

58 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

easy family

Lexie, aged 10, making carbonara at home

Lexie (left) with her younger sisters, Bertie (middle) and Olivia (right)

Lexie adapts recipes like spag bol to be veggie for sister Olivia

F

or as long as she can remember, Julia Adamson’s daughter, Lexie, has loved being in the kitchen. Their shared passion for cooking helped them forge an unbreakable bond, and has seen them through the tougher months of isolation during the pandemic.

‘It started when Lexie was little,’ Julia says, ‘I’d be prepping and this little hand would stretch up to the worktop, checking out what was going on.’

Lexie, 19, has Down’s Syndrome and Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD), and Julia was told early on that a focus on speech and language – as well as food texture – would be important for Lexie’s development.

‘That’s why I sat Lexie in a highchair when she was a baby,’ Julia says, ‘and gave her a little of whatever I was cooking, be it pastry or cookie dough or vegetables, so she could strengthen her grip and explore the different textures. Her interest in food took on a life of its own after that.’

Cooking became a key developmental tool for Lexie, Julia says. ‘It’s got everything: reading for

Cooking opened up Lexie’s early years learning and we’ve never stopped

meaning, structuring and ordering instructions, doing something practical with purpose. It opened up her early years learning experience and we’ve never stopped.

‘We read Nosh recipe books together, watch food programmes by Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, talk about what Lexie’s had to eat today and what we’ll be cooking tonight or need to put on the shopping list.’

Lexie’s passion for food brings important well-being benefits for her, too. ‘Maintaining a healthy diet is important for those with Down’s Syndrome,’ Julia says, ‘especially for good gut health and immunity. It’s reassuring for me that Lexie is growing these essential skills that will help her keep herself well.

‘Having a child with additional needs is a challenge – there’s no getting away from that.

Having something like this that connects you and enables your child to progress into adulthood, get training and employment, and eventually live semi-independently is great.

‘Cooking has opened up Lexie’s personality, too, as she’s quite a shy person naturally. But when she’s in the kitchen, she really comes alive.’

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 59

Gary, Bertie, Julia, Olivia and Lexie with Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall

Julia adds, ‘Confidence gained from cooking seeps into other areas of Lexie’s life. She excelled at a spoken English GCSE exam with a poem called “Spaghetti Bolognese”, her favourite food.’

Lexie is now completing an NVQ in hospitality and catering at a specialist college, which includes working in a local hotel. Julia says, ‘It makes me so proud to see Lexie’s independence and skills growing. She’s someone her younger sisters Olivia, 18, and Bertie, 11, look up to, and that’s special for my husband Gary and me.

‘Lexie’s cooking brings the whole family together – Bertie talks about being a chef like her big sister. Olivia makes an amazing chocolate roulade for us now and we all put time into creating big birthday cakes for Bertie.’

During the pandemic, cooking became a way for Julia to help Lexie expand her home learning and stay connected with loved ones. ‘We set up a Facebook group to keep in touch with friends and family; it’s a space for swapping recipes and keeping busy. It naturally evolved into a website (lexiecooks.com) and became a place where Lexie and I could create easy-to-follow recipes for our favourite dishes and foods.

‘Soon, people we didn’t know were submitting recipes to us, including handwritten recipes from their grandparents. It was really special being a part of that. We had so much fun trying them out together – Jazz’s buttery dhal, Jack’s cheesy mushroom pasta, Malcolm’s carbonara. Lexie opens up when she’s cooking and it’s lovely to see her in her element.’

Lexie was contacted by Turning Heads, a community group that helps young families supporting loved ones with disabilities, to see if she could provide some recipes for them. It led to a series of video tutorials and a YouTube channel (search ‘LexieCooks’ on YouTube).

Lexie also enjoys adapting recipes to suit her younger sister Olivia, who’s vegetarian. ‘I swap mince for lentils in spaghetti bolognese and make a cheesy mushroom pasta,’ she explains. ‘I want to have a café with my mum.’

It’s a dream Julia shares. ‘Cooking is a way to show people you love them. My family ran a fish and chip shop from the late 1890s, so this is in our blood. I’d love to have a café with Lexie one day.

She’s a better chef than me – the perfect partner!’

& Next month, three generations reminisce about their Omani-style Christmas dinners and share how they’re celebrating this year

Bertie talks about becoming a chef like her sister Lexie

Lexie’s cheesy breakfast flapjacks MAKES 20 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Melt the butter in a small pan over a low heat. Tip the rest of the ingredients into a large bowl with a pinch of salt, then mix in the butter. Press the mixture into a 28 x 16cm baking tray lined with baking parchment (dampen your hands to prevent them sticking).

2 Bake for 30-35 mins until brown and crisp on top.

Leave to cool, then cut into 20 squares. Will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to three days.

PER SERVING 196 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 7g • carbs 13g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 7g • salt 0.4g

60 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Photographs @VTFEATURES

100g unsalted butter 350g porridge oats 350g cheddar, grated 3 carrots, grated 2 eggs 1 tsp mixed dried Italian herbs 2 tbsp mixed ground seeds (we used a linseed mix)

.

T A % ME 0 4 H T I W W NO !

G E V E R O M *

Introducing new HECK 60/40, made with 60% meat and 40% veggie favourites like spinach, feta, red pepper and roasted tomatoes.

Now available at selected Tesco stores. *40% vegetables or cheese.

midweek meals

raid the shelves Dig out ingredients from the back of the kitchen cupboard and fridge to make these easy dinners

96p per serving

Chipotle red pepper soup, p64

easy midweek

Creamy one-pan chicken & broccoli pasta, p64

£2.98 per serving

your shopping list VEGETABLES & FRUIT 200g long-stem broccoli 9 garlic cloves 3 lemons 2 spring onions 2¼ red onions 6 red peppers 2 large onions 1.1kg ripe tomatoes 3 aubergines 2 carrots 2 celery sticks

X Need clever ways to use up sumac, breadcrumbs and other surplus ingredients? Turn to page 84

STORECUPBOARD 3 tbsp olive oil 200ml vegetable oil 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 chicken stock cube 1 vegetable stock cube 160g dried short pasta 250g floury potatoes 2 ½ tsp sumacX 3 tbsp plain flour 20g cornichons 60g plain breadcrumbsX 100g red rice

2 x 400g cans mixed beans 1 tbsp white miso 1 tsp honey 1 tbsp smoked paprika 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tbsp chipotle paste 1 tsp light brown muscovado sugar 1 tbsp tomato purée 130ml red or white wine

FROZEN 100g frozen peas MEAT & FISH 200g cooked chicken 250g skinless, boneless salmon fillets

FRESH HERBS 10g mint 20g parsley 25g dill 10g basil

DAIRY 150g crème fraîcheX 30g parmesan 1 tbsp whole milk 3 eggs

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 63

Chipotle red pepper soup You can serve this soup fridgecold, like gazpacho, with an ice cube and some fresh mint along with the basil, if you like. Add an extra pinch of salt and pepper, too, as the flavour of any food served cold will be slightly muted.

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V

4 red peppers, cut into small pieces 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling butter, for frying 2 large onions, thinly sliced 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 tbsp smoked paprika 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tbsp chipotle paste

Creamy one-pan chicken & broccoli pasta Who doesn’t love a creamy chicken pasta? If you don’t have broccoli, there are so many alternatives – you could just use regular broccoli, green beans, halved brussels sprouts or leafy greens.

SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

1 tbsp olive oil, for frying 200g cooked chicken, torn into pieces 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 chicken stock cube 160g dried short pasta 100g frozen peas

350g ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped, or 400g can tomatoes 400ml vegetable stock (using 1 stock cube) 1 tsp light brown muscovado sugar 1 /2 small bunch fresh basil

1 Heat the oven to 240C/220C fan/ gas 8. Tip the peppers onto a large baking sheet, drizzle over the olive oil, season generously and toss to coat. Roast for 20 mins until tender and lightly charred.

2 Meanwhile, melt a knob of butter in a large casserole or saucepan.

When gently sizzling, tip in the onion and fry over a low heat for 15 mins, until soft and lightly caramelised. Add the garlic, spices and chipotle paste, and fry for 2 mins until fragrant. Add the

1 Drizzle a little oil into a large, high-sided frying pan set over a medium heat. When the pan is hot, add the chicken and garlic, and fry for 5 mins, stirring often so it doesn’t burn. Pour in 900ml boiling water, then add the stock cube and pasta along with some seasoning. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 8 mins.

Fry to perfection with the Stellar Rocktanium non-stick pan

64 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

carbs 21g • sugars 19g • fibre 9g • protein 4g • salt 0.4g

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 957 kcals • fat 54g • saturates 28g • carbs 63g • sugars 8g • fibre 11g • protein 49g • salt 2.5g

JUST £45.05

Cook your meals to perfection with this award-winning Stellar pan.

Bring out all the flavours of your food with healthy, oil-free cooking, thanks to the reinforced non-stick coating.

The pan is dishwasher-friendly and oven-safe, suitable for all hobs including induction, PFOA-free, and tougher than conventional non-stick.

Plus, there’s a Stellar lifetime guarantee, with a 10-year non-stick warranty.

BBC Good Food readers can save 15% on the Stellar Rocktanium 26cm frying pan, and will also receive a free Premium Nylon-End Turner worth £13 with their order.

HOW TO ORDER Visit horwood.co.uk, search for SP26 and enter BBCGFFRY15 at the checkout. Offer ends 31 October 2021.

GOOD TO KNOW balanced • low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 189 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 2g •

2 Stir in the peas and broccoli for the last 4 mins of cooking time, and replace the lid. You might need to increase the heat slightly to get the temperature back up to a simmer.

Add a splash more water if the pasta is looking dry. After 4 mins, remove the lid and reduce the heat to low, then stir in the crème fraîche. Taste for seasoning. Remove the pan from the heat and stir through the lemon juice, parmesan and mint leaves.

Finish with some extra parmesan, if you like.

200g long-stem broccoli, cut into 3-4 pieces 150g crème fraîche 1 lemon, juiced 30g parmesan, grated, plus extra to serve small bunch fresh mint, leaves picked

reader offer

tomatoes, stock, sugar and the roasted peppers (if they’re not ready, you can add them later).

3 Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 10 mins. Remove the pan from the heat, then blitz the soup using a hand blender. Taste for seasoning and add more chipotle paste, if you prefer a little more heat. Divide into bowls, scatter over the basil and add an extra drizzle of olive oil.

(RRP £53) inc p&p

easy midweek

Salmon & sumac fishcakes MAKES 4 fishcakes PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins EASY

250g floury potatoes (such as Maris Piper), cut into chunks 1 tbsp whole milk 250g skinless, boneless salmon fillets 1 lemon, zested and juiced 20g each parsley and dill, finely chopped 20g cornichons, finely chopped 2 spring onions, finely chopped 21/2 tsp sumac 3 tbsp plain flour 1 egg, beaten 60g plain breadcrumbs 200ml vegetable oil watercress, to serve

1 Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and cook the potatoes for 10 mins.

2 Meanwhile, warm the milk over a medium heat in a saucepan until just simmering, this will take a few minutes. Remove from the heat, add the salmon and cover with a lid.

3 Drain the potatoes in a colander, then put the colander on top of the empty pan to steam for 5 mins.

4 Remove the salmon from the milk, reserving the milk. Add the lemon zest, juice, parsley, dill, cornichons and spring onions to the milk along with the sumac. Tip in the potatoes and roughly mash, then add the salmon, breaking it up into chunks, and mix everything together with some seasoning.

5 Tip the flour into a wide, shallow bowl, the beaten egg into another and the breadcrumbs into a third bowl.

Using your hands, shape the salmon mixture into four fishcakes. Dip each fishcake into the flour to lightly coat, shake off any excess flour, then dip into the egg, and finally the breadcrumbs. Transfer to a plate.

6 Pour the oil into a large, non-stick frying pan ensuring it is no more than two-thirds full, and set over a high heat. The oil is hot enough when a breadcrumb dropped in turns golden in a few seconds. Fry the fishcakes for 2-3 mins on each side until golden and serve with the watercress.

£1.43 per serving

GOOD TO KNOW vit c PER SERVING 411 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 3g • carbs 33g • sugars 2g • fibre 3g • protein 19g • salt 0.4g

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 65

94p per serving

Mixed bean salad When you need to bulk out a spread with either not much time or not much produce, grab a couple of cans of beans and you’re halfway there. This salad comes together well with a simple miso dressing.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY V

2 eggs, at room temperature 100g red rice 1 /4 red onion, halved and thinly sliced handful of fresh dill, roughly chopped 2 x 400g cans mixed beans (try cannellini, butter, haricot, black, kidney, borlotti or flageolet), drained and rinsed

For the dressing 1 tbsp white miso 1 lemon, juiced 1 tsp honey 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 Bring a pan of water to the boil.

Lower in the eggs, boil for 8 mins, then scoop out and immediately plunge into cold water. Once cool enough to handle, peel the eggs and set aside.

2 Cook the red rice in boiling water following pack instructions – it will take about 45 mins.

3 Put the onion, dill and beans in a large salad bowl and set aside.

4 Mix together all the dressing ingredients in a small bowl and

66 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

whisk well with a fork. Taste to check for seasoning and set aside.

5 Once the rice is ready, drain in a sieve, placing it under cold running water to cool, then drain again and tip into the salad bowl with the beans. Pour in all of the miso dressing, add a good pinch of seasoning and toss well to combine.

Slice the eggs into wedges, arrange them on the top of the rice and beans, then serve immediately.

GOOD TO KNOW balanced • low cal • folate • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 353 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 2g • carbs 40g • sugars 6g • fibre 9g • protein 15g • salt 1.4g

Recipes adapted from Fridge Raid

by Megan Davies (£18.99, Ryland Peters & Small).

Photographs Rita Platts © Ryland Peters & Small.

Recipes supplied by the publisher are not retested by us.

easy midweek

Aubergine ragu This is a veggie ragu that has depth and a light edge from the ripe tomatoes. It’s great for pasta but also fab to use in a lasagne, as a sandwich filling or – even better – with eggs as a shakshuka, or just on toast. It freezes well, so make a double batch and save some for stress-free suppers when the weather is colder.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY V ❄

3 aubergines, cut into 4-5cm pieces 1 tbsp olive oil 2 red onions, thinly sliced 2 carrots, chopped 2 celery sticks, chopped 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tbsp tomato purée 130ml red or white wine 750g fresh mixed tomatoes or 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes

£1.25 per serving

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put the aubergine on a large baking sheet and drizzle with the olive oil. Season well, then toss to coat. Roast for 1 hr until golden and tender. Will keep chilled for up to two days.

2 Heat a glug of olive oil in a large saucepan or casserole, then tip in the onions, carrots and celery. Fry gently for 20 mins over a medium heat, stirring often.

3 Add the garlic and spices, stirring for a couple of minutes. Add the tomato purée and mix well to combine. Pour in the wine and simmer for a couple of minutes until most of the liquid has been absorbed. Tip in the tomatoes and 400ml water (or if using canned tomatoes, use 200ml water).

4 Bring the ragu to the boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and leave to cook over a lowmedium heat for 50 mins, stirring occasionally. Mix in the roasted aubergine. Can be frozen for up to three months. Defrost in the fridge overnight before reheating.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • balanced • low fat • low cal • fibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 218 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 19g • sugars 17g • fibre 13g • protein 5g • salt 0.1g

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 67

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

storecupboard stars Make midweek more exciting using just a few key ingredients and ready-made spice pastes recipes AILSA BROWN photographs MIKE ENGLISH

Shawarma-spiced paneer & cauliflower pilaf While shawarma is usually made with meat in the Levantine tradition, this veggie spin is just as filling, rich and aromatic.

SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus overnight marinating COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY V

1 small cauliflower, broken into florets, stalk chopped and leaves kept whole 225g block paneer, cut into 2cm cubes 2 tbsp sunflower oil 75g Belazu Shawarma Paste, plus 1 tbsp 300g basmati rice 1 red onion, thinly sliced 3 bay leaves 700ml vegetable stock 75g raisins 25g flaked almonds small bunch of coriander, finely chopped (optional)

1 Tip the cauliflower florets and stalk, the paneer, half the sunflower oil and the 75g Belazu Shawarma Paste into a large bowl and season well. Toss everything together with your hands to combine, ensuring the paste is massaged into the cauliflower and paneer. Put in the fridge to marinate overnight.

2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Rinse the rice thoroughly until the water runs clear, then leave to soak in a bowl of cold water.

Tip the marinated cauliflower and paneer into a roasting tin. Remove

the leaves and set these aside. Roast for 20 mins, then add the leaves to the tin and roast for 20 mins more until the cauliflower is golden and tender. Remove from the oven and tip everything into a bowl.

3 Meanwhile, heat the remaining sunflower oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the onion and bay for 5 mins until the onion has softened slightly. Add the 1 tbsp Belazu Shawarma Paste and cook for 1 min more, then pour in the stock and bring to a gentle simmer.

Drain the rice, then tip it into a roasting tin. Pour over the stock mixture and stir in the raisins.

Season well. Cover and bake for 30 mins. Remove from the oven and fluff up the rice using a fork. Scatter over the roasted cauliflower and paneer and the flaked almonds, then return to the oven for 5 mins to warm everything through.

Sprinkle with the coriander to serve, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 688 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 10g • carbs 83g • sugars 20g • fibre 6g • protein 26g • salt 1g

STORECUPBOARD SPOTLIGHT Belazu Shawarma Paste is a warming combination of ginger, tomato, turmeric and chilli. It’s a great shortcut to shawarma, but can also be used in shakshuka – stir shawarma paste into the tomato sauce for a little kick. Or, add it to yogurt with tahini and lemon for a vibrant dressing.

68 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

easy midweek

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 69

Zhoug-marinated prawn orzo Give pasta and prawns a kick with a spicy Yemeni-style sauce.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus at least 15 mins marinating COOK 15 mins EASY

300g raw king prawns, peeled 4 tbsp Belazu Zhoug 1½ tbsp olive oil 5 sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, chopped, plus 2 tbsp oil from the jar 2 garlic cloves, crushed 250g orzo 1 lemon, zested large pinch of chilli flakes (optional) 800ml vegetable stock small bunch of parsley, finely chopped (optional)

1 Tip the prawns, Belazu Zhoug and the olive oil into a bowl. Toss to combine, then chill for 15 mins or up to 2 hrs.

2 After at least 15 mins, heat 2 tbsp oil from the sun-dried tomatoes in a frying pan over a medium heat.

Add the sun-dried tomatoes and garlic, and fry for 2 mins, then stir in the orzo, lemon zest, chilli flakes (if using) and stock. Bring to a simmer and cook for 8-10 mins, stirring often until the orzo is tender.

3 Meanwhile, heat a frying pan over a medium heat and cook the prawns with any leftover marinade for 2-3 mins until the prawns turn pink.

Season, then spoon the prawns and any pan juices over the orzo and sprinkle with the parsley, if using.

GOOD TO KNOW low cal PER SERVING 452 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 2g • carbs 51g • sugars 4g • fibre 4g • protein 24g • salt 1.4g

STORECUPBOARD SPOTLIGHT Belazu Zhoug is a punchy sauce with chillies, coriander and parsley. Slather a whole chicken in it and roast before shredding the meat to stuff into pittas, or spoon it over hummus for added oomph.

70 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

easy midweek

Smoked harissa-roasted chicken with anchovy mayonnaise Pair chilli-spiked harissa with umami-rich mayonnaise for a midweek pick-me-up.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr EASY

4 large potatoes (around 900g), cut into thick wedges 2-3 tbsp Belazu Smoked Chilli Harissa (depending on how much spice you prefer) 2 tbsp tomato purée 2 tsp sherry vinegar, plus a splash 4 thyme sprigs (optional) 1 tsp dried oregano 2 tbsp olive oil 8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs 3 garlic cloves, unpeeled 3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped 150g mayonnaise

1 Tip the potato wedges into a large saucepan and cover with cold water, then season with salt. Bring to the boil over a medium heat, then drain and leave to steam-dry in a colander.

2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Mix the Belazu Smoked Chilli Harissa, tomato purée, vinegar, thyme (if using), oregano and olive oil together in a large bowl and season well. Tip this into a large roasting tin along with the chicken thighs, cooled potatoes and whole garlic cloves, then toss together with your hands to coat everything in the harissa mixture. Arrange the potatoes in the bottom of the tin and nestle the chicken thighs on top. Roast for 50-60 mins until the potatoes are tender and the chicken thighs are crisp and cooked through.

3 Meanwhile, mash the anchovies on a board using the back of a knife to make a paste. Scrape into a bowl and combine with the mayo and a splash of vinegar. Season.

4 Remove the roasting tin from the oven. Squeeze the garlic from its skins onto a board, mash and mix into the mayonnaise. Serve the chicken and potatoes straight from the tin with the mayo on the side for dipping.

PER SERVING 704 kcals • fat 50g • saturates 7g • carbs 40g • sugars 5g • fibre 5g • protein 27g • salt 0.9g

STORECUPBOARD SPOTLIGHT Belazu Smoked Chilli Harissa is a handy ingredient for adding depth of flavour. Stir it into tomato sauce for pasta, spoon it over crispy fried eggs or swirl it into yogurt for a spicy, creamy sauce to go with rice dishes or roasted vegetables.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 71

Roasted pepper, tomato & tahini pasta This dish is perfect for those nights when you crave comfort but don’t have the energy to cook – the oven does most of the effort for you here.

Silky, nutty tahini pairs well with the peppers and tomatoes.

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY V

400g can cherry tomatoes 2 tbsp unsalted butter 3 garlic cloves ½ tsp smoked paprika

3 roasted red peppers from a jar, drained and cut into strips 150g long pasta (bucatini or tagliatelle work well) 1 tbsp Belazu Tahini small bunch of parsley, finely chopped (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Tip the tomatoes, butter, garlic, smoked paprika and 1/2 tsp sugar into a ceramic roasting dish and stir together to combine. Lay the strips of roasted red peppers on top of the mixture and bake for 50 mins-1 hr, or until the peppers

72 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

and tomatoes are golden and just about bursting.

2 Bring a pan of lightly salted water to the boil and cook the pasta following pack instructions. Drain, reserving a ladleful of the cooking water. Toss the cooked pasta with the Belazu Tahini and a splash of the reserved water, then stir through the roasted pepper sauce.

Season and serve with the parsley sprinkled on top, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 473 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 9g • carbs 56g • sugars 8g • fibre 5g • protein 15g • salt 0.1g

STORECUPBOARD SPOTLIGHT Belazu Tahini complements both sweet and savoury dishes. Try spreading it on toast and topping with sliced bananas and a drizzle of honey, or swirl it into porridge and scatter with some chopped dates.

easy midweek

Steak with pesto beans & greens If you don’t have cavolo nero, swap it out for any hardy green vegetable.

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

Shoot director BEN CURTIS | Food stylist MYLES WILLIAMSON | Stylist FAYE WEARS

2 tbsp olive oil 1 large sirloin steak (around 400g) 2 rosemary sprigs 2 garlic cloves, sliced 400g can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 125g cavolo nero, tough stalks removed, shredded 300ml chicken stock ½ tsp red wine vinegar 2 tbsp Belazu Traditional Genovese Pesto 15g parmesan, shaved

1 Drizzle half the oil over a shallow dish, then season well with salt and black pepper. Put the steak in the dish and massage in the seasoned oil to coat. Heat a high-sided frying pan over a high heat until hot, then add the steak and the rosemary.

Cook the steak for 2-4 mins on each side, depending on how done you like it. Transfer to a plate using tongs. Leave to rest for 10 mins.

2 Add the remaining oil and garlic to the pan and reduce the heat to medium. Cook for 2 mins until the garlic is golden, then add the beans, cavolo nero, stock and vinegar.

Bring to a simmer and cook for 4-5 mins, then add half the Belazu Traditional Genovese Pesto and any steak resting juices. Slice the steak into strips against the grain.

3 Top the beans with the steak, remaining pesto and parmesan.

GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 706 kcals • fat 42g • saturates 13g • carbs 21g • sugars 3g • fibre 11g • protein 57g • salt 2g

STORECUPBOARD SPOTLIGHT Not just for pasta, Belazu Traditional Genovese Pesto can be enjoyed in sandwiches, stirred into mayonnaise for a quick dressing or drizzled over grilled vegetables or fish with a squeeze of lemon. Add a little to soups, stews and salads, or mix through canned beans for an easy, speedy and delicious lunch.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 73

-

easy anytime

everyday

speedy meal for one Treat yourself to this vibrant dinner if you’re cooking solo tonight recipe CASSIE BEST photograph TOM REGESTER

Sticky paneer mango naans with herby yogurt

Shoot director HAYLEY WARD | Food stylist KATY GREENWOOD| Stylist AGATHE GITS

SERVES 1 (easily doubled) PREP 20 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

115g paneer 1 tbsp mango chutney 1 tsp curry paste (we used madras) 1 lime, juiced 85g red cabbage, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely shredded 85g natural yogurt handful each of coriander and mint, leaves picked and finely chopped, keep a few mint leaves whole to serve ¼ small garlic clove, crushed 1 large naan

1 Cut the paneer into six cubes. Mix the mango chutney with the curry paste and a squeeze of lime juice in a bowl, and carefully toss the paneer in the sauce to coat, being careful not to break the pieces up. Leave to soak up the flavours while you prepare the veg and herby yogurt..

2 Mix the cabbage and carrot with the remaining lime juice and a pinch of salt. Heat the grill to high and put the paneer on a baking tray lined with foil. Spoon over any mango curry sauce left in the bowl.

3 Mix the yogurt, herbs and garlic in a bowl or whizz in a small food processor. Grill the paneer for 5 mins until starting to char at the edges, and warm the naan on the shelf below.

4 To serve, spread the herby yogurt over the naan, top with the salad, paneer and the whole mint leaves.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 1023 kcals • fat 44g • saturates 21g • carbs 101g • sugars 28g • fibre 11g • protein 50g • salt 2.4g

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 75

THE HOUSE

by Clarence Court

Each freshly laid Clarence Court egg is unique. These colourful treasures are patiently laid by traditional breed birds originating from rare breed ancestors. Their heritage gives them a unique hue and flavour reminiscent of a bygone era. For eggs how they should be, simply look for the crown.

easy anytime

Easy piri-piri pulled pork

frozen assets

pulled pork Let your oven do all the work with this tender pork that can easily be frozen then reheated when you’re short on time

Even with only 10 minutes prep, you can produce a dish that feels special. As well as that, this recipe transforms a cheap cut into tender meat that you can use in a range of family meals, from simple sliders to a build-your-own burrito spread.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus at least 1 hr marinating COOK 3 hrs EASY ❄

1 red chilli 4 garlic cloves 1 tbsp smoked paprika 1 tbsp dried oregano 1 tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp dried chilli flakes, plus a pinch to serve (optional) 100ml red wine vinegar 400g can chopped tomatoes 800g-1kg piece skinless pork shoulder

recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph JAMES LEE

Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist TAMARA VOS | Stylist LUIS PERAL

1 Tip all the ingredients except the pork into a small blender or mini chopper, season with salt and blitz until smooth. Sit the pork in a PIRI-PIRI PULLED CHICKEN Try this using skinless, boneless chicken thighs (six to eight serves four) instead of pork. Make the sauce in step 1, then pour over the chicken, cover and adjust the cooking time to 1 hr 30 mins in step 2.

casserole dish and pour over the tomato mixture. Swill the blender out with 200ml water and pour that over too. Leave for at least 1 hr to marinate at room temperature or cover and chill overnight.

2 Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/ gas 31/2 . Cover the pork with foil and cook in the oven for 2 hrs. If the sauce is drying out, add a splash more water, then cover again and put back in the oven for about another hour or until tender.

3 Use two forks to shred the meat into the sauce, discarding any big chunks of fat. Check for seasoning, adding a pinch more salt and chilli flakes, if you prefer more heat. Can now be frozen for up to three months.

Defrost fully and reheat in a pan over a low heat, with a splash more water if needed. Serve in buns, on top of jacket potatoes or in tacos.

GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 457kcals • fat 28g • saturates 9g • carbs 5g • sugars 4g • fibre 2g • protein 47g • salt 0.3g

ADJUST THE SPICE With recipes like this, you’re in charge of the heat.

We’ve kept it medium, but if you want to make it milder, leave the fresh chilli out. To make it extra hot, add more chillies.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 77

two twists

cookies Get ahead on Bonfire Night celebrations with these sweet ideas from two members of the Good Food team recipes BARNEY DESMAZERY & LIBERTY MENDEZ photograph TOM REGESTER

barney While trying to decode my favourite shop-bought cookie, I’ve created something even better – a cross between an oaty flapjack and my childhood bakery treat of choice, a coconut macaroon. Oat cookies are nothing new, but I go an extra step and toast the oats first to crank up their flavour – it also gives the cookies a nuttier texture.

Barney Desmazery, skills & shows editor 78 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Oat cookies are an autumnal favourite, but you can upgrade the flavour by toasting the oats before mixing them into the cookie dough.

easy anytime

liberty As the nights get darker and Bonfire Night approaches, my favourite activity is baking cookies – especially ones that are packed with spices. These are just the ticket, as they’re loaded with autumnal flavours including cinnamon and ginger, plus the firework designs are simple but striking. You could even have a Bonfire Night evening with friends decorating these while sipping mulled cider.

Liberty Mendez, recipe developer

Pipe simple homemade icing ‘bursts’ onto the cookies and decorate with shop-bought star-shaped sprinkles to create a striking firework design.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 79

easy anytime

MAKES 12 PREP 20 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

125g jumbo oats 150g softened butter 100g light muscovado sugar 1 egg 1 tbsp golden syrup ½ tsp vanilla extract 100g self-raising flour 100g mixed dried fruit or raisins 75g dried apricots, finely chopped 50g desiccated coconut ½ tsp ground cinnamon (optional)

Bonfire Night cookies MAKES 20-22 PREP 35 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

75g unsalted butter, softened 100g caster sugar 1 large egg 250g plain flour 2 tbsp cocoa powder, sifted 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger For the icing 1 large egg white 250g icing sugar, sifted ½ tsp lemon juice gel food colourings (we used blue, yellow and red) star sprinkles (optional)

1 Beat the butter and sugar together with an electric whisk for 4-5 mins until light and fluffy. Beat in the egg until combined. Add the flour, cocoa powder, cinnamon and ginger, and

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Scatter the oats over a baking tray and bake for 20 mins, turning once until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

Tip the butter and sugar into a bowl and beat with an electric whisk for 2 mins until fluffy. Crack in the egg and add the golden syrup and vanilla, then beat until completely combined. Scatter in the flour, all the dried fruit, the coconut, cinnamon (if using), the toasted oats and a pinch of salt. Beat again until everything is combined and you have a thick dough.

Use the dough straightaway or cover and chill for up to two days.

2 Line two baking sheets with baking parchment and arrange six large spoonfuls of dough on each, wellspaced apart. Bake for 15 mins (or 18-20 mins if the dough is fridgecold) until the cookies have spread and are brown at the edges but soft in the middle. Leave to cool on the baking sheet for 5 mins, then transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool completely. Will keep in an airtight container or tin for up to five days.

continue to beat until the mixture comes together into a dough. Put the dough between two pieces of baking parchment and roll out to a 6mm thickness using a rolling pin.

2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Remove the top layer of parchment and cut out cookies using a 6cm round or star cutter.

Re-roll the offcuts and continue to cut out cookies until all the dough has been used (you should get 20-22, depending on the cutter).

3 Arrange the cookies on a large baking sheet lined with baking parchment, spacing them at least 2cm apart (you may need two baking sheets). Bake for 7-10 mins until slightly golden at the edges.

Leave to cool on the baking sheet for 10 mins, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

4 Once cool, make the icing. Beat the egg white with an electric whisk until just starting to froth up, about

1 min. Add the icing sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, whisking continuously at a medium-high speed until combined.

Add the lemon juice and whisk to stiff peaks, about 5 mins – the icing should be shiny. Add more icing sugar if needed to help it stiffen up.

5 To decorate, divide the icing into bowls and colour with the gel food colourings (we left some icing white, then coloured three bowls with blue, yellow and red). Spoon the coloured icing into separate piping bags fitted with small round nozzles (or snip off the ends). Pipe lines on the biscuits to create firework-like ‘burst’ patterns or swirls. While the icing is wet, decorate with star sprinkles, if you like. Leave to set slightly, then serve. Will keep in an airtight container for up to a week.

tip If you prefer plain chocolate cookies, simply omit the cinnamon and ginger.

80 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

PER SERVING 247 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 7g • carbs 31g • sugars 18g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.4g

PER SERVING (22) 141 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 2g • carbs 25g • sugars 16g • fibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 0.02g

& See Barney and Liberty at the BBC Good Food Show Winter at Birmingham’s NEC, 25-28 November. Turn to page 86 for more information or visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com to book tickets.

Shoot director HAYLEY WARD | Food stylist KATY GREENWOOD | Stylist AGATHE GITS

Fruity flapjack cookies

Share your drawings on social media with #gingerbreadcomp

Design the gingerbread home of your dreams!

Calling all young readers! We’re inviting you to enter our competition to draw a gingerbread home for BBC Good Food Are you a parent or carer? Invite your children and grandchildren to seize an exciting opportunity, because one talented young designer will WIN a Kenwood stand mixer and have their gingerbread creation made and featured in our December magazine.

Your design MUST I be a gingerbread home – this could be a house or any other accommodation, perhaps a block of flats or an igloo?

I be made of gingerbread pieces stuck together with icing, and all decorations must be edible.

I be original (not from television, a film or a book)

ARE YOU A TEACHER? Get your class involved!

Send us your top three entries from your school.

Head to bbcgoodfood. com/gingerbreadcomp to download a printable school worksheet

How to enter Visit bbcgood.com/gingerbreadcomp and upload your drawing of your gingerbread home and fill in your details. Or send us an A4 of your drawing with your name,

age, and a parent, guardian or teacher’s name, email address and phone number written on the back, then post your entry to: BBC Good Food Gingerbread Home Competition, Immediate Media Company, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT or email your entry to: goodfoodwebsite@immediate.co.uk with the subject line ‘Gingerbread home competition’, and the image attached.

I To be considered by our judges, you must be aged between five and 12 years old, and your entry must reach us by 5pm on 19 October 2021. Good luck!

For more information visit bbcgoodfood.com/gingerbreadcomp Terms and conditions Immediate Media Company London Limited (Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT) is in charge of this competition. Children who live in England, Wales, Scotland, Northern Ireland or the Channel Islands can enter, unless someone who works for Immediate Media or one of the judges is a member of your family. You must be between the ages of five and 12 years old on 19 October 2021. We will ask for proof of your age, address and the agreement of your parent/guardian if you win. You can send only one picture to be judged in the competition. Full terms and conditions can be found at bbcgoodfood.com/gingerbreadcomp

82 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

easy anytime

weeknight pudding

creamy baked rice Have this cooking in the oven while you make dinner and round off your meal with a comforting pud recipe ESTHER CLARK photograph TOM REGESTER

Baked rice pudding Warming, creamy and very simple to throw together, this classic rice pudding is best served with a big dollop of jam for a feel-good, midweek treat.

SERVES 4-6 PREP 5 mins COOK 1 hr 30 mins EASY V

butter, for the dish 130g pudding rice 70g caster sugar 2 tsp vanilla bean paste or 1 vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped out 800ml whole milk 170ml double cream grating of nutmeg fruit jam of your choice, to serve (strawberry or apricot work well)

1 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 3 and butter a 1.5-litre baking dish. Put the pudding rice, sugar, vanilla, milk and cream in a bowl and stir to combine. Pour the mixture into the prepared dish and grate over a generous layer of nutmeg. Bake for 1 hr 30 mins until a brown skin has formed on top and the rice is cooked and tender.

2 Leave to cool slightly, then scoop the warm pudding into bowls and serve with a dollop of jam on top.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (6) 358 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 13g • carbs 36g • sugars 18g • fibre 0.3g • protein 6g • salt 0.2g

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist LUIS PERAL

tip Try swapping the vanilla for lemon or orange zest to change the flavour.

Alternatively, use vegan spread, coconut milk and coconut cream to make the pudding dairy-free.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 83

reduce waste

use your leftovers Don’t let anything go to waste after making this month’s recipes – try these simple ideas

FROM THIS ISSUE Cauli-roni cheese Chop any leftover cauliflower from the whole baked cauliflower cheese recipe on page 114 and mix this with cooked macaroni and any leftover cheese sauce. Spoon into a gratin dish, sprinkle with grated cheddar and bake at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 for 30 mins until golden.

Pulled pork burgers Shred and reheat any leftover pulled pork (p77) and stuff into toasted burger buns with sliced tomatoes, shredded lettuce, sliced gherkins, mustard and ketchup.

Cheat’s stroganoff Fry mushrooms with chopped garlic, then add crème fraîche and Djion mustard. Bubble until thickened, then tip in thin slices of leftover herb-roasted beef rump (p100) and warm through. Serve the sauce over buttered pasta or boiled potatoes.

84 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

3 WAYS WITH

nduja sausage If you made the baked cod on page 154 and have leftover nduja, here are a few clever ways to use up this spiced sausage • Nduja-stuffed chicken breasts Cut part-way through the thickest part of the chicken breasts so you’re left with a small pocket (be careful not to cut all the way through). Stuff each breast with 1 tbsp nduja, then drizzle with oil and roast for 25 mins at 220C/200C fan/gas 7.

• Simple spicy pasta for one Cook 100g tagliatelle following pack instructions, then drain and return to the pan over a low heat. Stir in 1 tsp grated parmesan, 1 tbsp mascarpone, 1 tsp nduja and the juice of 1/2 lemon to create a delicious sauce.

• Nduja pizza Dot nduja over shop-bought margherita pizza, then drizzle with olive oil before baking following pack instructions. Scatter with rocket leaves.

PHOTODISC/WILLIAM TURNER

Break up any leftover vegan ginger cake (p111) into small crumbs, then toss with melted butter (use non-dairy spread, if needed) and oats. Mix peeled, cored and chopped apples with brown sugar and ground cinnamon, tip into a baking dish and sprinkle over the crumble mixture. Bake at 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 for 30 mins until the apples are cooked through and the topping is golden.

Photographs STOCKFOOD/RANNELS, GREG, GETTY/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY, GETTY/

Ginger & apple crumble

WHAT TO DO WITH

X Half a red

onion Onion pickle Finely slice the onion, then tip into a bowl with a pinch of salt.

Mix with 1 tbsp vinegar and leave for at least 10 mins to pickle. Try stuffing into a cheese toastie.

Pico de gallo Finely slice the onion and mix with chopped tomatoes, chillies, coriander and lime juice.

MIDWEEK MAGIC Transform basic ingredients that you may have in surplus after using our shopping list (page 63)

Quick onion relish Slice the onion and fry in oil for 10 mins until caramelised.

Add 1 tsp each honey, mustard, ketchup and vinegar. Cook until sticky, then serve on hot dogs.

MAKE MORE OF

X Breadcrumbs Chilli crumbs Mix 1 finely chopped red chilli with 50g breadcrumbs. Fry over a low heat for 5 mins in 2 tbsp olive oil until golden.

Scatter over pasta or soups.

Lemon & parmesan crust

Cheese & onion topping Chop the onion and fry in butter for 5-6 mins. Cool.

Mix with 50g grated cheddar and fold into an omelette or spread on bread for cheese on toast.

Mix 25g finely grated parmesan and the zest of 1 unwaxed lemon with 50g breadcrumbs. Use to coat chicken or pork, or sprinkle over fish before roasting.

Spiced crumbs Garlic breadcrumbs Mix 2 finely grated garlic cloves with a handful of parsley leaves, finely chopped, and 50g breadcrumbs. Scatter over pasta bakes and casseroles.

Mix 50g breadcrumbs with 1/4 tsp each ground turmeric, ground cumin, ground coriander and cracked black pepper. Use as a breadcrumb coating for chicken or pork.

& SUSTAINABILITY

HOW TO USE

X sumac This tangy spice brings a beautiful citrus flavour to dishes. y Sumac baked feta Generously dust a 200g block of feta with sumac before baking at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 for 30 mins until browned. Serve with toast or flatbreads. y Sumac roast chicken Season chicken breasts or thighs with sumac and salt, then roast.

y Spiced pitta crisps Halve any stale pittas, then cut into triangles. Drizzle with olive oil and season with sumac, then bake on a baking tray for 10 mins at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 until crisp. Serve with dips or crumble over salads.

At BBC Good Food, we seek realistic solutions to avoid food waste and packaging, and adhere to the three Rs: 1) Reducing food waste 2) Recycling packaging 3) Reusing food storage packaging and containers. To find out more, go to bbcgoodfood. com/reduce-reuse-recycle.

Plus, listen to the Food Programme’s inspiring Food Waste Pioneers broadcast about people who tackle food waste issues on BBC Radio 4.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 85

SAVE 15%* QUOTE GFR5

25 -28 November 2021 NEC Birmingham Entertainment | Tasting Shopping | Inspiration

A seasonal celebration awaits Gather your friends and family and join us for a delicious day out this November. We have a Show full to the brim with seasonal recipe inspiration, hands-on masterclasses, festive ideas galore and some brand-new tasting theatres with sessions that will leave you with skills to last a lifetime. Christmas is just around the corner, and we have a festive line-up like no other! Experience the buzz

of seeing your favourite chef and book your Big Kitchen, sponsored by Thermomix theatre session. Be wowed by some of the biggest celebrity chefs and experts including Michelin masters Tom Kerridge and Michel Roux Jr, Show favourites Nadiya Hussain and James Martin, and queen of baking Dame Mary Berry, plus the Hairy Bikers.

Head to the website to find out more and book!

Book your tickets today and save 15%*– quote GFR5 | bbcgoodfoodshow.com With thanks to our sponsors and supporters:

Show sponsor

Big Kitchen sponsor

Festive Kitchen sponsor

Product supplier and session sponsor

Show highlights

Meet the makers

Wrap up Christmas in a day

Meet the makers of all your favourite food and drink in these tasting sessions hosted by Katy Truss from Fabulous Food Finds. Take a tour of world spices, find out about the magic of honey, taste your way through artisan cheeses or meet an award-winning The olive chocolate producer. wine-tasting theatre

Deck the halls with fabulous food and drink this season and discover delicious treats in the Producers Village and Food Champions. With luxury chocolates for Christmas from Lauden Chocolate, mouth-watering spices from BoTree Farm and premium coffee from Adams & Russell.

We guarantee you won’t go home empty handed.

An alternative Christmas The Festive Kitchen, sponsored by Eat Game is back! Take a seat in one of our sessions and discover a whole host of alternatives for your festive table, with host Chris Bavin and guests.

Time to relax

Baking with sparkle

Take some time to wine and dine at the BBC .

Good Food Restaurant.

Choose to enjoy a . sit-down meal, of two or three courses, inspired by some of the most popular seasonal dishes.

Brand-new for 2021, the Get Baking! stage is the place to go to pick up plenty of sweet & savoury inspiration for your festive bakes, as well as top tips and new techniques from a host of baking experts.

A taste sensation

Get hands on Roll up your sleeves, stretch your skills, and get hands-on in one of our workshops. Learn from the masters and walk away with techniques and culinary essentials to impress all your friends.

From cocktail making, sharpening up your knife skills, or how to make the perfect Christmas pudding. Book your workshop session today!

Our Drinks Cabinet houses a stunning array of unique spirit companies to tantalise your taste buds. Try Rhucello, a rhubarb liqueur, inspired by Italy and made in Yorkshire. Buy some Christmas pudding liqueur.

Or if a margarita is your tipple, try Pimentae, a premium bottled margarita with a fiery twist.

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health

news

Health editor Tracey Raye investigates low-carb swaps and shares a warming soup recipe, plus discover the benefits of squash HEALTH HACKS

Low-carb swaps

aubergine slices

rice

cauliflower rice

LIGHT LUNCH Miso & butternut soup Make lunch more exciting with this silky and deeply savoury soup that’s also bursting with goodness.

spaghetti

courgette noodles

croutons (for salads)

nuts and seeds

banana

berries

porridge

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

2 tsp rapeseed oil 1 large onion, chopped 400g butternut squash, skin-on, cut into chunks 2 garlic cloves, chopped 210g can butter beans, drained 2 tsp vegetable bouillon 80g shredded kale, finely chopped 2 tsp sesame oil 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds 2 tsp finely grated ginger 1 tbsp brown rice miso

chia pot

GOOD TO KNOW 5 of 5-a-day • low cal • low fat • healthy • calcium • iron • vit c • fibre PER SERVING 287 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 1g •

1 Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion for 5 mins to soften. Add roast potatoes

the squash and garlic, and stir for a minute. Add the beans and bouillon along with a litre of water, then cover and simmer for 20 mins until the squash is tender.

2 Meanwhile, steam the kale for 10 mins, then toss together with the sesame oil, seeds and ginger.

3 Add the miso to the soup, then blitz until smooth using a hand blender. Pour into bowls and top with the sesame kale mix to serve.

carbs 34g • sugars 15g • fibre 12g • protein 10g • salt 0.9g

regular pancakes

Find lots more healthy recipes at bbcgoodfood. com

roast swede

DISCOVER

burger buns

&

Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director CLOE ROSE-MANN | Stylist AMY KINNEAR

lasagne sheets

Pictures ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS AND E+, WESTEND61, MOMENT, EYEEM/GETTY | Recipe SARA BUENFELD

Trying to reduce your carb intake?

Discover our easy, healthy swaps for effortless low-carb meals.

go bunless with salad

almond flour pancakes

HEALTH BENEFITS OF BUTTERNUT SQUASH Technically a fruit, butternut squash is low in calories, high in nutrients, and when cooked, has comfortingly sweet, soft flesh that may help to manage appetite.

Try it roasted, mashed, or in soup (as above).

88 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Rich in fibre Contains zeaxanthin and lutein for eye health Potassium

Betacarotene for immune support

Vitamin C

easy health

5 healthy ideas

peanut butter Add healthy fats and some protein to your diet by incorporating peanut butter into midweek meals and snacks Chilli chicken with peanut noodles

Peanut butter overnight oats

SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

Heat 2 tsp rapeseed oil in a wok over a high heat and add 2 skinless, boneless chicken thighs, chopped, 3 grated garlic cloves, 1 tbsp ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks, 1 red chilli, finely chopped, 175g long-stem broccoli, sliced diagonally, and 1 chopped red pepper. Fry for 1 min, tossing the ingredients.

Cover, reduce the heat to medium and cook for 5 mins.

Meanwhile, cook 2 wholewheat noodle nests in a pan of boiling water for 5 mins. Drain, reserving the water. Mix 1 tbsp sugar-free peanut butter, the juice and zest of 1/2 lime, 1 tsp cumin and 3 tbsp of the reserved water, then toss with the noodles. Add 1 /2 tsp tamari to the stir-fry. Serve with the noodles.

SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V

Stir 80g frozen raspberries into 50g rolled porridge oats with 150ml water and a pinch of salt, then cover and chill in the fridge overnight. The next day, mix in 1 tsp maple syrup, then top the oats with 1 tbsp peanut butter.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 345 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 3g • carbs 44g • sugars 9g • fibre 8g • protein 11g • salt 0.6g

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 437 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 42g • sugars 7g • fibre 9g • protein 36g • salt 1g

Banana & peanut butter ice cream

Bang bang chicken cups

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus 1 hr freezing NO COOK EASY V ❄

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins NO COOK EASY

Stir together 3 tbsp peanut butter and 3 tbsp just-boiled water in a small bowl until smooth, then mix in 1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce and the juice of 1 /2 lime. Thinly slice 2 cooked chicken breasts and serve on a board with the bowl of peanut sauce.

Arrange the leaves from 2 Little Gem lettuces, 4 spring onions, trimmed and cut into fine matchsticks, 1/2 cucumber, cut into matchsticks, and 1 carrot, cut into matchsticks, in separate piles alongside. To eat, fill the lettuce leaves with the chicken, then top with veg and peanut sauce.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • folate • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 374 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 4g • carbs 15g • sugars 13g • fibre 5g • protein 39g • salt 0.7g

Peel and chop 4 ripe bananas into 3cm chunks. Freeze, then tip into a blender with 2 tbsp almond milk.

Blitz until smooth. Add 1 tbsp organic peanut butter and 1 tsp ground cinnamon. Blitz again and add more cinnamon, if you like.

Freeze in a freezerproof container for 1 hr. Top with 1 tbsp dark chocolate, grated, and 1 tbsp flaked almonds to serve.

Peanut butter rainbow rice SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY ❄

Whisk 2 tsp sesame oil, 6 tbsp peanut butter, 2 tsp soy sauce, 2 tsp honey, 1 tsp crushed ginger and 1 tsp crushed garlic until smooth. Season. Set half aside.

Add 2 tbsp cold water to the other half to loosen. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Mix 400g chicken breasts, cut into 2.5cm cubes, 1 small aubergine, cut into 2.5cm cubes, 1 chopped red pepper and 195g can sweetcorn, drained, with the thicker sauce in a roasting tin. Season, cover and bake for 25-30 mins until the chicken is cooked and the veg soft. Meanwhile, cook 250g rice following pack instructions, then combine with the baked chicken and veg. Drizzle with the loosened sauce to serve.

GOOD TO KNOW low fat • 2 of 5-a-day

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day

PER SERVING 169 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 2g • carbs 24g • sugars 22g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt none

PER SERVING 557 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 4g • carbs 59g • sugars 10g • fibre 6g • protein 36g • salt 0.7g

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 89

easy health

healthy diet plan

Healthy roast dinner SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 50 mins EASY

LOW CAL

FIBRE

3 OF 5-A-DAY

285g medium potatoes, thickly sliced 4 small carrots (160g), halved lengthways 2 x 80g red onions, cut into quarters 170g large brussels sprouts (about 8-10), trimmed 2½ tsp rapeseed oil 2 tsp thyme leaves 2 tsp balsamic vinegar 1 large garlic clove, finely grated 2 pinches of English mustard powder 170g thick, lean fillet steak ½ tsp vegetable bouillon powder

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the potatoes for 5 mins. Drain, reserving the water.

2 Toss the potatoes, carrots, onions and sprouts with 2 tsp of the oil to coat. Arrange on a non-stick baking sheet, spaced apart. Scatter with 1 tsp of the thyme, grind over some black pepper, then roast for 30 mins.

3 Meanwhile, mix 1 tsp of the vinegar with the garlic, remaining thyme and oil, the mustard and plenty of black pepper. Rub this over the steak, put in a shallow dish and set aside. Mix the rest of the vinegar with the bouillon and 125ml of the

recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph MIKE ENGLISH

reserved water from step 1, then set aside. After 30 mins, turn the veg over and roast for 15 mins more.

4 Meanwhile, heat a small non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat.

Lift the steak out of the marinade, shake off the excess and fry for 2-3 mins on each side until cooked to your liking. Remove to a board and leave to rest. Pour the leftover marinade into the frying pan and bubble until thickened slightly to make a gravy. Slice the steak and serve with the roast veg and gravy on the side.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 370 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 3g • carbs 38g • sugars 15g • fibre 12g • protein 24g • salt 0.6g

Scan here to sign up for a free My Good Food account and access our latest Healthy Diet Plan, or visit bbcgoodfood. com/healthy -diet-plan

90 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist SARAH BIRKS

Sunday lunch made lighter

Cook this healthy, low-fat version of roast beef for two made with lean, juicy steak

The perfect gift for any foodie Choose from over 30 chapters of our best-ever recipes, hand-picked by the BBC Good Food team, then complete it with a personalised cover.

Whether you’re looking for family favourites, inspiring healthy lunches or comforting puddings and bakes, we’ve got you covered from just £20.

Treat yourself or a friend VISIT mycookbooks.bbcgoodfood.com or scan the code to create your cookbook OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 91

In under an hour you can enjoy quality time with the people you love, in a place that feels safe and welcoming.

If you’re fully vaccinated*, it’s time to unpause your life. #LiveUnpaused

* Both jabs, plus 14 days. Please check our latest travel guidance before booking.

visitguernsey.com

WEEKEND Make the most of autumn with Tom Kerridge’s hearty pub classics, new ways with seasonal produce, and a spiced ginger cake, plus learn to make Jamaican plantain puffs

TOM KERRIDGE’S HERB-ROASTED BEEF RUMP CAP p100

MELISSA THOMPSON Plantain puffs, p98

SEASONAL Whole baked cauliflower cheese, p114

FOR THE CAKE TIN Sticky ginger loaf, p111

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 93

october

BLACK HISTORY MONTH

FOOD TO CELEBRATE MY JAMAICAN ROOTS Melissa Thompson shares favourite recipes inspired by her heritage and tells us why they mean so much to her recipe MELISSA THOMPSON photographs MIKE ENGLISH

I

t is a tricky one, ‘celebrating’ Black History Month. On one hand, the existence of such a month highlights the lack of acknowledgement of black culture and history during the remaining 11 months of the year.

On the other hand, food has always been a vehicle for learning about other cultures and it remains a vital connection between different communities.

And I will always celebrate my Jamaican roots and shout about them to anyone who’ll listen.

Especially the food.

These recipes celebrate the food of Jamaica. Not the dishes the island is rightly famed for – jerk, ackee and saltfish, oxtail to name a few – but the ingredients and produce that are written into the island’s history and tell its story.

Jamaica’s indignous people, the Taino, cultivated cassava, sweet

potato and corn. Cassava was a root so precious to them that they worshipped it – bread made from cassava flour could keep for months; a rare bonus in the pre-refrigeration days where any adverse weather could mean a ruined harvest and possible starvation. My sweet potato cakes (page 96) pay homage to those three main ingredients, while the tamarind bacon is a nod to the pigs introduced by the first colonisers, the Spanish, which became wild and roamed the mountains giving sustenance to the few remaining Taino who fled the Spaniards’ brutality. Those Taino formed allegiances with Maroons, the enslaved African men and women who had escaped the Spanish, and later the British, in order to survive. It was through this collaboration that the foundations of jerk were likely built.

Plantain was a vital part of enslaved people’s diets. It grew prolifically, can be enjoyed at various stages of its ripening and is rich in nutrients and energy.

The sauce that accompanies the plantain puffs (page 98) is a nod to Jamaica’s Blue Mountain coffee, which is some of the best in the world.

Seafood has always been a part of island cuisine, from the earliest settlers to the present day, while indentured servants from India brought curries into the Jamaican culinary repertoire – all this reflected in my curry prawns recipe (p96).

These recipes pay homage to the myriad influences that built Jamaican food into the singular, unique and beautiful food culture it is today. And I hope you enjoy them all year round, not just in October.

Melissa is one of our regular columnists as well as running recipe project Fowl Mouths, through which she innovates in the kitchen and helps to drive change in the food industry.

She’s a vocal advocate for the promotion of black and minority ethnic people in this field, and in 2021 earned the prestigious Food Writing Award by the Guild of Food Writers. @fowlmouthsfood

94 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

tip WHERE TO BUY? I realise for those living away from cities, sourcing some Caribbean ingredients might be difficult.

As well as Afro-Caribbean stores, I find South Asian and Middle Eastern shops often have ingredients like plantain or cassava flour, but failing that, there are plenty of options online: z afrobuy.co.uk z johnandbiola. co.uk z redrickshaw. com

& See Melissa at the BBC Good Food Show Winter at Birmingham’s NEC, 25-28 November. Turn to page 86 for more information or visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com to book tickets.

weekend

Curry prawns, p96

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 95

Curry prawns SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins (if shelling prawns) COOK 45 mins EASY

1 tbsp vegetable or coconut oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1-inch piece of ginger, grated 2 tomatoes, chopped ½ scotch bonnet chilli (optional) 24-36 whole king prawns, or buy them peeled 1 ½ tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander 5 cloves, ground ½ tsp ground fenugreek 1 tsp paprika ½ tsp ground allspice 1 tsp tamarind paste 400ml coconut milk cooked rice, to serve

Sweet potato & corn cakes with tamarind bacon & avocado SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins MORE EFFORT

2 sweet potatoes (500g) 1 potato (325g) 2 ripe avocados, peeled and stoned 4 spring onions, thinly sliced 1 1 /4- /2 scotch bonnet chilli, finely chopped (optional) 1 lime, juiced 2 corn cobs (or 300g drained canned sweetcorn) 100g cassava flour 1 tsp tamarind extract ½ tsp honey 8 slices thick-cut bacon 100ml vegetable oil 8 tbsp soured cream, to serve (optional)

1 Heat the oil in a frying pan over a low-medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 15 mins until soft and starting to caramelise, stirring regularly. Add the garlic, ginger, tomatoes and the chilli, if using.

Turn the heat up to medium and cook for another 10 mins.

2 Meanwhile, if you’re using shell-on prawns, prepare them now.

Remove the head and, using a pair of scissors, cut down the back of the shell until you reach the last segment of shell that’s attached to the tail. Cut through the top layer of flesh on the back of each prawn so it’s easy to remove the vein – loosen it from the body, then with your fingers as close to the tail as possible, pull gently to remove the vein completely. You can keep the heads and shells to make a stock.

3 Mix the ground spices and tamarind paste with 2 tbsp water, then add to the onion mix. Cook for 5 mins until the spices are fragrant and most of the water has evaporated.

4 Stir in the coconut milk and cook for 5-10 mins until reduced to a thick gravy, then tip in the prawns.

Cook for 5 mins until they are just pink, then remove from the heat.

Serve with rice.

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Prick the sweet potatoes and potato with a knife and roast them until soft – about 45 mins-1 hr for the potato and 40-50 mins for the sweet potato, turning them halfway through. Remove from the oven, leave until cool enough to handle, then scoop the potato flesh out of the skins and lightly mash together but not so it’s smooth – keep it chunky.

2 While the potatoes are cooking, scoop the avocado into a bowl and mash lightly. Add half of the spring onions, the scotch bonnet, if using, the lime juice and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Keep chilled until ready to serve.

3 If using fresh corn, slice the kernels from the cob and boil in a pan of salted water for 3 mins. Rinse with cold water to cool. Add the sweetcorn to the potato mix, with the remaining spring onions and some salt and pepper. Gently mix, then take a handful the size of a tomato. Roll on your worktop, then flatten slightly until it is about 1-inch thick. Repeat until all the mixture is used up, you should have around 12-14 cakes. Put the cassava flour in a shallow bowl and gently drop the cakes in, one by one, then roll lightly to coat with the flour.

4 Mix the tamarind and honey with 1 tbsp warm water until fully dissolved. Warm a frying pan over a medium heat and add the bacon.

After 1 minute, brush the tamarind mixture over the top side and turn, brushing the other side with a little more of the mixture. At first it will look as though the bacon is boiling, but keep adding the mixture and turning two more times, and it will start to caramelise. Once nicely browned on both sides, remove from the pan and keep warm.

5 Put the oil in a non-stick frying pan, enough so the oil will come halfway up the cakes. Heat over a medium-high heat and fry the cakes for 3-4 mins each side until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper and keep warm while you cook the remaining cakes. To serve, pile two or three cakes onto each plate alongside some mashed avocado and put two slices of bacon on top.

Serve 2 tbsp each of the soured cream on the side, if you like.

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GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 294 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 15g • carbs 9g • sugars 6g • fibre 3g • protein 14g • salt 1.1g

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 644 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 7g • carbs 70g • sugars 17g • fibre 14g • protein 17g • salt 1.5g

weekend

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 97

Plantain puffs MAKES 40-50 PREP 30 mins plus 1 hr proving COOK 50 mins MORE EFFORT V

2 plantain 100ml whole milk 50g golden caster sugar, plus 1 tbsp 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast 400g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 150g condensed milk 2 x 50ml shots of strong coffee 500ml-1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying For the dusting 75g caster sugar 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 /2 tsp ground nutmeg

98 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Roast the plantain, in its skin, for 20-30 mins until the flesh is soft. Meanwhile, gently warm the milk in a pan until lukewarm. Stir in 1 tbsp of the sugar, then add the yeast. Take off the heat and leave to stand for 10 mins.

2 Take the plantain out of the oven and, once cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh into a bowl. Mix the flour with the remaining sugar, then mix in the plantain flesh. Stir in 150ml water gradually using a cutlery knife until you have a loose, sticky dough. Leave in a warm place, covered with a damp tea towel, for 1 hr or until doubled in size.

3 Mix the condensed milk and coffee in a small bowl and set aside.

Mix the ingredients for the dusting together in a wide, shallow bowl.

4 Fill a heavy-based saucepan half-full with the oil, and gently heat to 180C. If you don’t have a thermometer, drop a small bit of batter into the oil. It’s ready when the batter drops to the bottom, then rises after 3-5 seconds. Wet your hands to stop the dough sticking, and take a small amount, about the size of a walnut, and carefully drop into the oil. Repeat, working in batches and ensuring there is space enough so the puffs aren’t touching.

Cook for 2 mins or until golden brown, then turn and fry for another 2 mins until brown all over. Remove using a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper, then roll each puff in the dusting and transfer to a plate.

Serve with the coffee sauce on the side, for dunking.

PER SERVING (50) 74 kcals • fat 1g • saturates 0.3g • carbs 14g • sugars 5g • fibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.01g

Shoot director BEN CURTIS | Food stylist MYLES WILLAMSON | Stylist FAYE WEARS

weekend

ADD A

fright TO EVERY BITE Prepare to scare this Halloween with a cute yet creepy chocolate orange Ghost Drip Cake or a Crispy Marshmallow Pumpkin Patch.

and share at Oetker.co.uk

TOM KERRIDGE

NEW PUB CLASSICS BBC chef and Good Food podcast host Tom Kerridge serves up his favourite pub recipes for you to try at home photographs JONATHAN GREGSON I love pubs – they’re about making everyone feel welcome.

When it came to opening my first business, even though all my experience had been in Michelin-starred restaurants, I knew it had to be a pub. This allowed me to take my favourite comforting dishes and give them a bit of flair, and that’s what I’ve been doing ever since. Here, you’ve got my version of four classics to suit different weekend occasions, from Friday night scampi to a lovely brunch of ham, egg and chips. Enjoy. Tom Herb-roasted beef rump cap & mushroom ketchup You can serve this as steak and chips, or roast beef. The cut (rump cap) lets you decide as it’s a large steak that you roast. It’s a tricky one to find in supermarkets but your butcher should be able to get it for you. Here I’ve served it with my favourite beef side, punchy mushroom ketchup – it works whether you serve it with chips or as a Sunday roast.

SERVES 4 PREP 40 mins plus resting COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT

2 tbsp sunflower oil 800-900g piece of beef rump cap (also called picanha) large handful of hard herbs like thyme, rosemary and bay bunch of watercress and chips, to serve (optional)

For the mushroom ketchup 30g dried mushrooms 4 portobello mushrooms, roughly chopped 1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 long or 2 short shallots, finely chopped 2 tbsp demerara sugar 4 tbsp red wine vinegar a splash of Worcestershire sauce

1 First, make the ketchup. Pour 150ml boiled water from the kettle over the dried mushrooms and leave them to soak. When cool enough to handle, drain and give them a squeeze, reserving the water.

Tip into a food processor with the portobello mushrooms and pulse until finely chopped.

2 Heat the oil in a saucepan set over a medium heat, add the shallots and cook for 5 mins until softened and turning golden. Tip the chopped mushrooms into the pan, season and cook for 10 mins, stirring occasionally until all the liquid

Tom Kerridge is a BBC presenter and chef-owner of The Hand and Flowers, The Coach and The Butcher’s Tap in Marlow, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill at The Corinthia Hotel, London, as well as The Bull & Bear in Manchester.

Catch up on our new podcast Trade Secrets with Tom and Marverine Cole at bbcgoodfood.com/ podcast. @ChefTomKerridge

100 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

evaporates. Stir in the sugar, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce and simmer for 5 mins, then pour over the reserved mushroom stock and simmer for 5 mins more until you have a thick mushroom purée.

Scrape into a food processor or a blender, and blitz again until smooth. Can be made up to four days ahead and kept chilled.

3 To cook the beef, heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Heat the oil in an ovenproof frying pan set over a medium heat. Season the beef heavily with salt, then carefully lay the beef fat-side down in the hot oil and fry it to render the fat until golden brown – this will take about 10 mins. Turn it over and fry it on the other other side until browned.

4 Lift the beef onto a plate, then add the herbs to the pan and sit the beef on top, fat-side up. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast for 30 mins for rare (the core will be 45C on a meat thermometer), 35 mins for mediumrare or 40 mins for medium. Once cooked to your liking, leave the pan on the side to rest for 10 mins.

5 While the beef cooks, remove the ketchup from the fridge, if you’ve chilled it, so that it comes to room temperature and spoon into a side dish. Once the beef has rested, lift onto a board and carve into thin slices, and serve with the ketchup, watercress and chips, if you like, or your favourite roast dinner sides.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • iron •1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 522 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 8g • carbs 18g • sugars 13g • fibre 2g • protein 47g • salt 0.3g

weekend

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 101

Grilled prawn cocktail salad & bloody mary dressing, p104

102 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

weekend

Monkfish scampi & lime tartare, p104

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 103

Historically ‘scampi’ meant langoustines, which would be a lovely way to eat them but would cost a fortune. Now, it generally applies to prawns and they work well with this batter, but I like to use nuggets of meaty monkfish, or if I’m offered them by my suppliers, monkfish or cod cheeks are ideal. You can serve this with chips, or just the scampi as it is for a sharing starter or a canapé, or stuffed into baps or fish tacos.

SERVES 4 PREP 40 mins COOK 10 mins MORE EFFORT

sunflower oil, for frying plain flour, for dusting 500g cleaned monkfish fillet, diced into 4cm cubes For the batter 100g semolina flour 50g cornflour large pinch of cayenne pepper

Grilled prawn cocktail salad & bloody mary dressing What’s more of a pub classic than prawn cocktail? It’s often served fridge-cold which means it loses a lot of its charm and flavour. Here, I’ve avoided that by grilling the prawns and made the dressing punchier by bringing in the flavours of a bloody mary cocktail.

I’ve served mine as one big sharing platter, but it works just as well as individual bowl salads.

SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus at least 10 mins marinating COOK 6 mins EASY

2 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle to serve 2 garlic cloves, finely grated pinch of cayenne pepper, plus extra to serve 20 large tiger prawns, peeled and deveined ¼ lemon, juiced, plus wedges to serve

104 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 200ml cold fizzy water or lager For the lime tartare ½ red onion, finely chopped ½ lime, juiced and zested 6 tbsp mayonnaise small handful of coriander, finely chopped

1 For the tartare sauce, mix the red onion with the lime juice and zest and a small pinch of salt, leave for 5 mins to soften a little, then mix in the mayonnaise and coriander.

Cover and chill until needed. Can be made a day ahead.

2 For the batter, add the flours, cayenne and bicarb to a bowl, then whisk in the water or lager and set side. Pour the oil into a deep, wide pan ensuring it is no more than two-thirds full, or heat a deep-fat fryer to 180C if you have a thermometer. If you don’t, drizzle a little batter into the oil – it’s ready when the batter sizzles and turns crisp in less than a minute.

For the bloody mary dressing 5 tbsp mayonnaise (the best quality you can find) 1 tbsp tomato purée 5 good splashes of hot sauce 1 tbsp hot creamed horseradish 1 tbsp vodka (optional) large pinch of celery salt For the salad 2 ripe avocados, halved, stoned and cut into chunky dice 3 celery sticks, peeled and sliced into chunks, reserve the leaves to serve ½ iceberg lettuce, shredded 2 ripe plum tomatoes, roughly chopped

1 Mix all the dressing ingredients together with a pinch of salt and set aside. Can be made up to a day ahead, covered and chilled. Mix the oil and garlic in a large bowl with salt, pepper and the cayenne, then tip in the prawns and marinate in the fridge for at least 10 mins and up to 24 hrs. Can be done a day ahead, covered and chilled.

3 Put a little plain flour in a shallow dish then, working quickly, dust the fish in the flour, then dredge through the batter. Hold a nugget of fillet above the batter to let the excess drip back into the bowl, then very carefully lower into the oil. Fry as many nuggets as you can without the pan being overcrowded – you may need to do it in batches. Fry the fish for about 4-5 mins, turning once, until deep golden and crisp.

Lift onto a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain for a minute, then serve in a basket with the tartare sauce for dipping.

PER SERVING 534 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 3g • carbs 32g • sugars 2g • fibre 1g • protein 23g • salt 0.4g

2 Make sure you have all the salad ingredients prepared before you start cooking the prawns. Toss the salad ingredients together and scatter over a large platter, or divide between four bowls. Heat a griddle pan over a medium heat and when it is hot carefully lay the prawns in the pan and cook for about 2 mins on each side until they change colour and are cooked through.

Nestle the prawns into the salad, generously drizzle over the dressing, scatter over the reserved celery leaves, sprinkle with the extra cayenne pepper, then drizzle over a little more oil. Serve with the lemon wedges on the side for squeezing over.

GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 424 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 5g • carbs 6g • sugars 4g • fibre 5g • protein 20g • salt 0.8g

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist MAX ROBINSON

Monkfish scampi & lime tartare

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Honeyed ham chop, egg & gherkin butter I always judge a pub by the quality of their ham, egg & chips. As it’s a simple dish it needs to be done properly, and you can always tell how good a kitchen is by how well they fry an egg. In my pubs, I like to use sugar pit gammon or bacon chops that come on the bone, but if these are hard to find, then good-quality gammon steaks work well, as does any leftover roast ham carved into thick slices.

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 bacon chops or gammon steaks (about 150g each), on the bone if you have the option

1 tbsp honey 2 eggs, golden yolk work well chips, to serve For the gherkin brown butter 50g butter 2 gherkins, diced 2 tbsp malt vinegar 1 tbsp chopped parsley

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 6. Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in an ovenproof frying pan, then sizzle the chops for 5 mins on both sides until golden. Put the pan in the oven for 10 mins. Meanwhile, prepare the ingredients for the gherkin brown butter and set aside. Remove the chops from the oven and put back on the hob over a medium heat.

Drizzle with the honey and cook

until starting to caramelise, basting and coating the chops in the glaze, then set aside.

2 Heat the remaining 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan, crack in the eggs and fry to your liking. Put the chops and eggs onto serving plates.

3 For the gherkin brown butter, work quickly, putting the frying pan back on the heat. Add the butter, let it melt and sizzle, then add the gherkins and vinegar, some black pepper, and stir in the parsley.

Spoon over the eggs, and serve with chips on the side.

& See Tom cooking live at the BBC Good Food Show Winter at Birmingham’s NEC, 25-28 November. Turn to page 86 for more information or visit bbcgoodfood show.com to book tickets.

PER SERVING 591 kcals • fat 45g • saturates 19g • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • fibre none • protein 36g • salt 4.2g

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 105

M Y FAVO U R ITE D I S H

NARGISSE BENKABBOU’S

MOROCCAN HARIRA The chef and author of Casablanca shares the influences of the food she brought to the UK from her upbringing in a Moroccan community in Brussels words TONY NAYLOR

N

argisse Benkabbou would like to clarify something: ‘We do not have hummus in Morocco.’ Morocco is not known for its baba ganoush, either. Or any of the Levantine dishes which, when Nargisse first arrived in London to study, enthusiastic fans of ‘Moroccan food’ would tell her they loved. ‘In the UK, Moroccan is very mixed with Middle Eastern food. Beirut is a six-hour flight from Casablanca. We’re really far apart. We have some similarities, mostly in desserts, but I’m proud of my culture and, for me, it’s important to say, “Hey, Moroccan food is very different”.’

For the last eight years, after leaving the nine-tofive grind, the 34-year-old has been saying just that.

Raised in Brussels, in a large Moroccan community, Nargisse, now an established food writer and chef, 106 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

We loved to eat everything from oysters to the French patisserie dad brought home

has fed her zeal for Moroccan food into blogging, supperclubs, cookbook Casablanca and her role as executive chef at L’Mida in Marrakech.

L’Mida’s menu blends hip Western influences and Moroccan dishes, a style Nargisse would like to bring to London. ‘I believe in evolution and modernity.

Techniques change, utensils change,’ she says, pointing out that most families now cook tagines in pressure-cookers rather than earthenware pots.

‘I grew up very Moroccan, very European. My food is influenced by that duality. I like to have both cultures reflected in things I do.

‘Like a lot of people back then, my dad left Morocco at 16 to find a better life in Belgium. One summer, he met my mum in Morocco and brought her over. Dad is very entrepreneurial and he started a company selling halal cooked meats which, following his retirement (my parent now live in Rabat, Morocco’s capital), my two brothers took over.

‘Mum and dad originally come from Fez, one of the best places to eat traditional Moroccan food, and they are both proper foodies. Mum was in charge in the kitchen but everyone in our family cooked and, although we ate Moroccan food regularly, we loved everything from oysters to the French patisserie dad

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brought home almost daily. There were always naughty treats at home. Friends would say, “every time I have dinner at your place I gain five kilos!”

‘My parents wanted us to know how rich and varied Moroccan cuisine is, and to understand its customs.

For instance, my recipe, harira (overleaf), is a nutritious soup that was the first thing we would eat during Ramadan to break the fast. Dad would say, “harira has everything one needs”. It is served at the end of Moroccan weddings too and for breakfast in Morocco’s souks. Harira comes from the word harir meaning silk. It’s meant to be silky and comforting.

‘My mum was very homesick in Belgium and cooking was a way to feel closer to home. I helped with simple jobs, peeling vegetables or shelling prawns. But mum would always get me to taste the food and ask me: “what’s in this? Is there turmeric? Ginger?”. As a chef, that really developed my palate. I learned so much watching her cook.

‘We’d all eat together and, when eating Moroccan dishes, there would usually be a selection of raw or cooked salads to start. Things like charred aubergines and chickpeas, chermoula-seasoned carrots or zaalouk, a soft, spicy aubergine dip eaten with bread.

Then we’d move to mains such as couscous or a tagine.

Clockwise, from top left: Nargisse is executive chef at L’Mida; recipes from her cookbook, Casablanca: artichoke, baby potato & preserved lemon tagine, Casablanca couscous, and chicken, carrot & charred lemon tagine; Nargisse’s mother in Belgium; both parents on their wedding day

‘In the West, semolina granules – what Moroccans call smida – are known as couscous. But in Morocco, couscous refers to a variety of slow-cooked broths served on smida. The meat, often stewing beef, is cooked for a long time with vegetables, chickpeas, turmeric and saffron to create a delicious broth.

‘In Morocco, on Fridays, it’s traditional to go to the mosque to pray and, for lunch, have couscous. Usually, people make a huge portion so they can give away a plate to people who don’t have anything; maybe to someone on the street or donate to the local mosque.

‘Tagines are stews, essentially. But something people don’t generally know, outside Morocco, is how they are classified. The four dominant tagines are mqualli with turmeric, saffron and ground ginger; mhammer with ground paprika and cumin; chermoula-flavoured mchermel; and tomato-based tagine. To Moroccans, there is a clear logic to which ingredients you add: meat, fish, spices, preserved lemons, depending on which style you are making.

‘Personally, I don’t mind people not following the rules. I’m happy people are embracing Moroccan culture. But, as a Moroccan chef, it’s important to spread accurate, authentic knowledge.’ mymoroccanfood.com @mymoroccanfood OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 107

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Harira SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr 35 mins EASY

1 tbsp olive oil 300g braising beef or boneless beef, trimmed of excess fat, cut into 3cm pieces 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp ground black pepper ¼ tsp ground ginger 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley 1 tbsp tomato purée pinch of saffron 70g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained (or 140g canned chickpeas, drained) 6 large tomatoes, grated or blitzed in a food processor 100g celery (2 stalks), finely chopped 80g dried green lentils 3 tbsp cornflour or plain flour 2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander and lemon wedges, to serve

carbs 23g • sugars 6g • fibre 6g • protein 17g • salt 1.3g

Onions

‘The base of every tagine.

In a similar way to using flour in French cooking, the onions bind the sauce.

Some like their tagine more watery. I like it on the thick side.’

Chermoula

‘Made with cumin, paprika, garlic, olive oil, lemon and herbs, this condiment, marinade or seasoning is at the centre of many Moroccan dishes. A lot of salads are seasoned with chermoula as is tagine

108 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

mchermel. It can be a roast chicken marinade, too.’

Orange blossom water

‘90% of Moroccan sweets, cookies and cakes have orange blossom water in them. Fifty years ago, my grandfather used to make his own.’

Saffron

‘Really important in Moroccan cuisine.

Essential for tagine mqualli but we also put saffron in cookies and the chicken filo pie, pastilla.

It’s expensive. If you didn’t have a lot of money you’d only bring the saffron out for weddings and special occasions.’

Almonds

‘We use versatile almonds in sweet and savoury things. Tagines (often a tagine mqualli with dried fruits), can be scattered with roasted or fried blanched almonds, and most Moroccan cookies, including ghriba and biscotti-like fekkas, are made with almonds.’

Food stylng and styling AMY KINNEAR

GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (6) 224 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 2g •

FIVE ESSENTIAL MOROCCAN INGREDIENTS

Photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN

1 Heat the olive oil in a large flameproof casserole over a medium heat. Add the meat, onion and spices with 11/2 tsp salt. Leave for 5-10 mins to lightly brown the meat, stirring occasionally. Add the rest of the ingredients except the lentils, cornflour, coriander and lemon wedges. Add 1 litre of boiling water, bring to the boil, cover with a lid and reduce the heat to low. Leave to simmer for 1 hr.

2 Add the lentils to the casserole, cover with a lid and cook for a further 20 mins. When the chickpeas, meat and lentils are cooked, mix the cornflour in a small bowl with 3 tbsp water, and stir until smooth. Stir the cornflour mixture into the casserole. Simmer for 5 mins until the harira thickens and takes on a velvety texture.

3 Scatter over the coriander, then serve hot with lemon wedges on the side for squeezing over.

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TO BOOK OR REQUEST A BROCHURE call 01283 742398 or to book, visit gfdriviera.co.uk Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers: All bookings will receive two free standard tickets to one of the BBC Good Food Shows** TERMS & CONDITIONS *Per person prices based on two sharing a twin cabin. All prices correct at time of printing. Single cabins and optional insurance available at a supplement. Additional entrance costs may apply. **BBC Good Food Show tickets: BBC Good Food (published by Immediate Media Company London Limited) will contact you after your holiday to arrange tickets for your chosen show (excludes Saturday entry). Please see BBC Good Food’s privacy policy at policies.immediate.co.uk/privacy for details of how your personal information may be used. +Meals will vary from cruise to cruise, see individual itinerary online. Holidays organised by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Travel.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 109

le r saobe t onOc

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CAKE TIN

STICKY GINGER LOAF Autumn calls for spiced bakes, and this iced sponge is a real treat, whether you’re vegan or not. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream, or cold with a cuppa recipe LIBERTY MENDEZ photograph TOM REGESTER

Vegan ginger loaf cake

Shoot director HAYLEY WARD | Food stylist KATY GREENWOOD | Stylist AGATHE GITS

SERVES 8-10 PREP 15 mins COOK 45-50 mins EASY V ❄

100ml vegetable oil, plus extra for the tin 275g self-raising flour 150g dark muscovado sugar 1 tsp baking powder 1 tbsp ground ginger 50g treacle 50g stem ginger from a jar, finely grated, plus 1 tsp of the ginger syrup 150g icing sugar ½ lemon, juiced 4 crystallised stem ginger pieces, sliced

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Oil a 900g loaf tin (ours was 19 x 9 x 6cm) and line with a long strip of baking parchment. Mix the flour, muscovado sugar, baking powder and ground ginger together in a large bowl. Tip in the oil, treacle, grated stem ginger and 170ml cold water, then beat together until smooth using a wooden spoon.

2 Pour the cake mixture into the prepared tin and bake in the centre of the oven for 45-50 mins until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin for 5 mins, then transfer to a wire rack to cool fully.

3 Sieve the icing sugar into a bowl, add the ginger syrup and mix in just enough lemon juice to make a thick, pourable icing that can coat the back of a spoon. Put the cake on a plate or stand, remove the parchment and drizzle over the icing. Immediately scatter over the stem ginger. Cut the cake into thick slices to serve.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING (10) 353 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 1g • carbs 61g • sugars 40g • fibre 1g • protein 3g • salt 0.4g

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 111

SEASONAL

GOLDEN TIME

October’s robust produce takes centre stage in these recipes from Esther Clark, plus learn to grow your own cauliflower with tips from Emma Crawforth of BBC Gardeners’ World photographs DANIELLE WOOD

T

his month’s iconic pumpkins aren’t just good for carving – they’re available in a variety of sizes and shapes, all with a slightly different flavour profile. Steer away from the cheaper carving pumpkins in the supermarket and instead go for ones that have deep orange flesh and tough skin. I like to roast them to serve in wedges in a salad with chicory and burrata, or whizz the roasted flesh into a creamy soup topped with the pumpkin seeds. Pumpkin has a naturally creamy texture, so it’s ideal as the base for a pasta sauce, as I’ve done with the rigatoni on page 114. It also works well as a chutney or pickle – try our get-ahead version on page 119 and give it as a Christmas gift in a few months’ time.

Cauliflower has had a bit of a makeover in recent years. It’s no longer a bland side dish, but is now served as a meat alternative, marinated and grilled in ‘steaks’ or roasted and mixed into coconut curries.

I often roast cauliflower whole with herbs and spices and serve it with a sauce or as part of a roast dinner.

I also stopped cutting it into chunks for cauliflower cheese years ago, as a whole roasted cauliflower retains its meaty, robust texture. While it works in so many dishes, my favourite way to eat it is still slathered in cheesy sauce and baked (p114).

British pears are fantastic in October, with winter varieties like Conference, Comice and Winter Nelis coming into season. These have a longer shelf life and are best stored in a cool, dark place. Poach them whole with bay, white wine and sugar to bring out their sweetness, or coarsely grate into a bircher muesli.

I’ve baked them into a nutty crumble on page 116 where the honey sweetness of the pears and earthy coconut topping work together like a dream.

Before becoming deputy food editor, Esther trained at Leiths School of Food & Wine, then worked as a chef in Italy. She loves to cook for friends at home, and particularly enjoys creating recipes using new ingredients and seasonal produce. @esthermclark

112 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

weekend Whole baked cauliflower cheese, p114

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 113

VEG Q&A

We all know and love the classic version, but why go to the trouble of chopping cauliflower? A whole baked one makes a fantastic addition to a roast dinner and looks impressive while also being simple to prep. Adding the leaves is a must, as they’re packed with flavour and will turn crisp at the edges when roasted. A mixture of cheeses works best, so feel free to use up any hard cheeses you might have left over in the fridge.

SERVES 6 PREP 5 mins COOK 50 mins EASY V

1 large cauliflower (about 1kg) 50g unsalted butter 50g plain flour large pinch of sweet smoked paprika 600ml whole milk 2 tsp English mustard 170g mature cheddar, gruyère, comté or a mixture ½ bunch of chives, finely chopped

Creamy pumpkin pasta This is an excellent way to use the pumpkins that start appearing in supermarkets around Halloween.

When puréed and combined with mascarpone and parmesan, their flesh transforms into a silky and delicious pasta sauce.

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 500g pumpkin or squash, peeled and cut into roughly 3cm cubes 50-100ml whole milk 2 tbsp tomato purée 2 tbsp mascarpone 350g short pasta (rigatoni or penne work well) 40g grated parmesan or vegetarian alternative, plus extra to serve

1 Heat the oil in a large, shallow, flameproof casserole or frying pan over a low-medium heat and fry the onion with a pinch of salt for 10-15 mins until softened and

114 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Pull any large leaves off the cauliflower, but leave any smaller ones attached. Carefully lower the cauliflower into the water and boil for 15 mins, then drain and set aside.

2 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Melt the butter in a medium pan over a medium heat, then stir in the flour and paprika, and cook for 1-2 mins. Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the milk until smooth, then mix in the mustard.

Return the pan to the heat and bring the mixture to the boil, whisking continuously. Add two-thirds of the cheese and whisk until the cheese has melted. Season to taste.

3 Put the cauliflower in the middle of a deep baking dish and pour over the cheese sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake uncovered for 30-35 mins until golden brown and bubbling. Scatter with the chives before serving.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 340 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 13g • carbs 17g • sugars 9g • fibre 4g • protein 15g • salt 0.9g

translucent. Add the garlic and fry for 1 min more. Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly.

2 Meanwhile, cook the pumpkin in a pan of boiling salted water for 10-15 mins until tender when pierced with a cutlery knife. Drain and tip into a blender (or use a hand blender). Blitz with 50ml milk and the onions until completely smooth, gradually adding more milk until the mixture is thick enough to just coat the back of a spoon (you may not need all the milk). Tip into a large frying pan with the tomato purée and mascarpone, and bring to a simmer over a low heat.

3 Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water following pack instructions. Drain, reserving a cupful of the cooking water. Toss the pasta with the pumpkin sauce, parmesan and 50-100ml of the reserved water to loosen. Season and scatter with extra parmesan.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 461 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 6g •

carbs 63g • sugars 7g • fibre 8g • protein 16g • salt 0.2g

Emma Crawforth is a qualified horticulturist, trained at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, and is the gardening editor for BBC Gardeners’ World. Here, she gives advice for growing veg.

CAULIFLOWER How do you know when cauliflower is ready?

Harvest cauliflower as soon as the ‘curds’ – the white, purple or green immature flower heads – are a good size, but still dense and hard.

What time of year is it grown?

Sow autumn-harvested cauliflowers in mid-to-late spring and transplant to their final positions in June or July.

You can harvest mini cauliflowers now; they have a similar timetable but are planted closer together.

By sowing the right type for each season, you can harvest cauliflower practically all year round.

Are there different varieties?

Start autumn-harvesting ‘Skywalker’ and finish with ‘Belot’. For colour, go for purple ‘Graffiti’, which is good served raw. If clubroot is a problem on your plot, grow ‘Clapton’, which is resistant. These are all good autumn varieties and there are many others for the rest of the year.

How easy is it to grow your own?

Cauliflower is not the easiest crop to grow. It suffers from the same pests and diseases as other brassicas, and producing a good curd can be a bit of an art. For white curds, fold the leaves over the top to protect from the sun. But, the colour of ‘Graffiti’ is improved in good light. The best crops grow in rich soil with plenty of water and feeding.

How do you like to eat cauliflower?

I love cauliflower in any dish, from salads and roasts to cauliflower cheese. But, the biggest treat is aloo gobi. Some people say cauliflower is bland in colour and flavour, but I disagree. It does a good job of soaking up colourful, flavoursome spices.

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist FAYE WEARS

Whole baked cauliflower cheese

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OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 115

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Caramelised pear, rum & coconut crumble Pears stand up well to a nutty crumble topping, while the rum just cuts through the sweetness.

Serve this with an unsweetened accompaniment, like clotted cream, instead of custard.

SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

2 lemons, juiced 1 tbsp cornflour 6 ripe pears, peeled, halved and cored 100g light brown soft sugar 3 tbsp spiced rum 30g unsalted butter For the topping 120g plain flour

80g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 40g light brown soft sugar 30g desiccated coconut 40g shaved coconut 40g almonds, roughly chopped ½ tsp ground cinnamon clotted cream, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Mix the lemon juice and cornflour together in a small bowl.

Tip this into a medium ovenproof dish with the pears, sugar and rum.

Dot over the butter and bake for 20-25 mins until the pears are soft, tossing halfway through.

2 For the topping, rub the flour and butter together in a bowl between

116 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

your fingertips until the mixture is a coarse breadcrumb-like texture. Stir through the sugar, both types of coconut, the almonds, cinnamon and 1/2 tsp sea salt flakes. Spread the mixture over a baking tray and bake for 10-15 mins until golden and crunchy.

Sprinkle the topping over the pears, then bake for another 10-15 mins. Leave to cool slightly, then serve warm in bowls with clotted cream.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 501 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 15g • carbs 57g • sugars 39g • fibre 7g • protein 5g • salt 0.5g

& The Food Programme’s Sheila Dillon invited squashloving chef Romy Gill to discuss the history of our favourite gourds with Neil Munro from the Heritage Seed Library and Ken Albala, professor of food studies.

Search ‘The Food Programme Pumpkins and Winter Squash’ on BBC Sounds.

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Gnocchi with plum tomatoes SERVES 4 1 PREP 5 mins 1 COOK 10 mins 1 EASY 1 V

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Of course, just because a recipe is straightforward doesn’t mean it has to be boring, and no one knows this better than Napolina. As the UK’s

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Take this melt-in-the-mouth recipe created in partnership with celebrated Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo. It only uses a handful of ingredients and will be ready to enjoy in less than 20 minutes. It’s an authentic taste of Italy the whole family can tuck into together.

For more Italian recipe inspiration visit Napolina.com or follow @napolina on Instagram

2 x 400g cans Napolina Peeled Plum Tomatoes 500g Napolina Gnocchi 3 tbsp Napolina Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 garlic cloves, crushed small handful of basil leaves, roughly torn parmesan or vegetarian alternative, grated, to serve

1 Drain the tomatoes, reserving the juice from the cans, then quarter each one lengthways. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil over a medium heat, then add the gnocchi. In a separate pan, warm the olive oil over a high heat, then add the garlic and fry for 1 min. Add the tomato slices, a little salt, most of the basil plus a ladle of pasta water (approx. 100ml), then fry for 30 seconds. Lower the heat and cook gently for a further 4 mins.

2 Once the gnocchi starts to float to the top of the pan, use a slotted spoon to carefully remove it and add to the tomato mixture, coating it in the sauce. To serve, sprinkle with grated parmesan, the remaining basil and the extra olive oil. Season to taste.

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PER SERVING 333 kcals fat 9g saturates 1.3g carbs 53.7g sugars 5.6g fibre 4.1g protein 7.2g salt 1.64g

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weekend

MAKE AND GIVE FOR CHRISTMAS

NICE & SPICY In part two of our series on making your own Christmas hamper, a seasonal pickle that can be served with cold meats, cheese or a slice of pork pie recipe CASSIE BEST photograph TOM REGESTER

Pumpkin pickle MAKES 3 x 400g jars PREP 20 mins plus overnight salting COOK 20 mins MORE EFFORT V

Shoot director HAYLEY WARD | Food stylist KATY GREENWOOD | Stylist AGATHE GITS

850g pumpkin or squash (600g prepared weight), peeled and chopped into 1cm pieces 1 large onion, chopped 2 eating apples, cored, peeled and chopped into 1cm pieces 2 tsp black mustard seeds 2 tsp coriander seeds 2 tsp nigella seeds 200g caster sugar 450ml cider vinegar 2 bay leaves 1 ½ tsp turmeric 2 tbsp plain flour thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and cut into thin slices 1 green or red chilli, finely chopped

runny, then pour into the pan, and add the ginger and chilli. Simmer for another 5 mins, uncovered, stirring until thickened and the squash has softened but still retains some bite.

4 Carefully fill your sterilised jars with the pickle while it’s still hot, pressing the chunks of squash down into the liquid to expel air pockets, then pop on the lid. Will keep in a

cool, dark place for up to a year.

Once opened, store in the fridge and eat within a month. Best served after being left to mature for a month or more, but can be eaten straightaway.

PER TBSP 13 kcals • fat 0.1g • saturates none • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • fibre 0.2g • protein 0.2g • salt 0.3g

& See Cassie at the BBC Good Food Show Winter at Birmingham’s NEC, 25-28 November. Turn to page 86 for more information or visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com to book tickets.

STERILISING JARS Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1. Wash the jars in hot, soapy water, rinse well and put in the oven on a baking sheet to dry completely.

If using Kilner jars, boil the rubber seals, as dry heat damages them.

Add the pickle to the jars while still hot.

1 Put the prepared pumpkin in a bowl and sprinkle over 2 tbsp sea salt. Toss well, cover and leave at room temperature for 24 hrs.

2 Sterilise your jars before you start (see tip, right). Drain and rinse the pumpkin, then tip into a large pan. Add the onion, apple pieces, mustard, coriander and nigella seeds, the sugar, vinegar and bay leaves. Pour 200ml water over everything, then put on a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Put a lid on the pan, leaving a gap for steam to escape, turn the heat up to medium-high and cook for 8 mins.

3 Use a cup to scoop out some liquid from the pan and mix 50ml with the turmeric and flour in a small bowl to make a smooth paste. Add a little more of the liquid, mixing well to remove any lumps, until the paste becomes OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 119

Why does pig welfare matter?

What do the labels on pork mean?

What is RSPCA Assured?

Find the answers at:

rspcaassured.org.uk

i op n oN

Our columnists discuss what’s new in the world of food and drink, plus discover the winners of the first Drinks Taste Awards

DRINKS TASTE AWARDS 2021, P126

Also in the opinion section Defend your food

heritage

Joanna Blythman is inspired by food producers keeping traditions alive, p123

Hello

autumn Marverine Cole’s pick of the best beers for the new season, p125

The perfect

pour

See Miriam Nice and Richard Davie’s serving suggestions for our drinks winners, p126 OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 121

Save 40% on the Judge offer all-in-one soup maker reader

Free with every purchase, you’ll also receive a Judge chopping board and Judge Sabatier cook’s knife, together worth £19.90

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Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers

As the days become colder, there’s nothing better than a warming bowl of homemade soup, and with this exclusive offer on the Judge all-in-one soup-maker – saving you £64 – you can whizz up a nourishing batch in a matter of minutes.

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122 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

opinion

Joanna Blythman

defend your local food heritage BBC Radio 4’s Dan Saladino inspires our columnist with stories of food producers around the world keeping old traditions alive @joannablythman

W

ho has travelled the world exploring food more extensively and adventurously than Dan Saladino, the much-loved presenter on Radio 4’s Food Programme?

In a globalised world where the food in one country increasingly resembles that in many others, and where local cuisines have had fast food superimposed on their traditions, Dan has been hot on the trail of distinctive ingredients and dishes with deep roots in their respective cultures, everything from wild honey harvested by nomads in Tanzania to the genetic ancestor of all the world’s oranges that’s found in the mountain forests of India.

Dan’s new book, Eating to Extinction: the world’s rarest foods and why we need to save them, is a real attention-grabber, an exceptionally wide-ranging, informative clarion call alerting us to the diminishing biodiversity in our food chain caused by intensive agriculture, climate change, industrialisation, migration, genetic erosion, and increasingly homogenised food tastes.

There’s only so much bad news I can take, so I was overjoyed to find that Dan’s book was as much an inspiring guide to the pioneering individuals, indigenous groups, scientists, and food producers who are championing the world’s rich food heritage, as a warning about what threatens it.

Dan’s biodiversity journey was triggered by the international Slow Food Organisation’s ‘Ark of Taste’.

A sort of register of foods that might otherwise disappear into oblivion, it now contains 5,312

foods from 130 countries, with 762 others on the list waiting to be assessed.

Sicily’s vanilla orange, Kavilica wheat in Anatolia, Olotón maize in Oaxaca, bison in the US, Pu-Erh tea in China, German Alb lentils, French Salers cheese, Criollo cacao in Venezuela, Lambic beer in Belgium, wild Ethiopian forest coffee, Danish flat oysters; these are just a few of the thousands of food traditions we risk losing forever. How did we arrive at this erosion of choice and biodiversity?

The physicist Albert-László Barabási argues that the driving force behind science in the last century was a relentless ‘reductionism’, an over-simplified, understanding of how the natural world works. The erosion of food biodiversity we are now witnessing

& Dan Saladino is a regular producer and presenter of The Food Programme on BBC Radio 4.

Listen on Sundays at 12.30pm and BBC Sounds.

Eating to Extinction by Dan Saladino (£25, Jonathan Cape).

suggests that, in the modern drive to increase food production by breeding high-yielding crops and more ‘efficient’ livestock breeds, we’ve abandoned too much of the farming wisdom that went before it.

Dan draws our attention to the battle on our doorsteps to defend our precious local food heritage.

He highlights the situation of wild Atlantic salmon in Ireland and Scotland, its future threatened by intensive salmon farming.

Dan also looks at stilton.

There’s plenty of it around, yet Joe Schneider in Nottinghamshire, who produces Stichelton cheese, is the only cheesemaker who still hand-makes this legendary English cheese following traditional artisan methods, and using the time-honoured raw milk.

Rare breeds of meat, such as the Middle White pig, are being nurtured and sold commercially to a motivated public by companies, such as Farmison. On Orkney, bere meal – a type of nutrient-dense barley grown there since Neolithic times – has been rescued. In the 1960s, just six crofters still grew it, and most of it was fed to livestock.

Now, food writers, notably Scottish baker Sue Lawrence, use it to make shortbread and bannocks, while brewers and distillers make beer and whisky.

These foods, and thousands like them, Dan explains, represent much more than sustenance.

They are history, culture, geography, science and craft.

We must make them our future.

Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning journalist who has written about food for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 123

HOME COOKING SERIES

Get set for Christmas with our simple recipes, fun crafts and edible gifts

Special gifts you can make with the kids

Classic turkey recipes, plus some new ideas

’t get to n a C . w o n s e r to s d Out in selecte urs at magsdirect.co.uk the shops? Order yo

Visit the Apple App store to download digital issues in the Home Cooking Series, including BBC Good Food’s Vegetarian Summer, One-Pots, Vegan and more.

HOME COOKING Fully tested recipes SERIES from BBC Good Food

Showstopping puds, desserts and cakes

opinion

ma

ne

rveri

Beers to usher c ole in autumn

Mark the spookiest time of year with a ruby red brew, plus an Oktoberfest staple and easy-drinking pale ale

A

utumn is definitely here and boy, didn’t that come around quick? I try my best not to let it get me down.

October holds fond memories for me of ghosts and ghouls gliding about our house at one messy Halloween party – our friends crowed for weeks about not wanting to dress up. But, cometh the hour, they all obliged and hammed it up with monstrous make-up and £1 plastic props.

A beer that could be the making of any spooky celebration is one that’s been dubbed the unofficial drink of Halloween: Hobgoblin Ruby Beer. It pours dark brown with a ruby-red hue and offers a lip-smacking combination of raisin, fig and toffee-like sweetness, all balanced with a pronounced bitterness. Made by Wychwood Brewery, you might find it on draught in some pubs at 4.5% ABV, but it’s also available in a can (also at 4.5%) or bottles at a cheeky 5.2%. It’s great on its own, but best served with some party favourites such as hot dogs or sausage rolls.

It’s likely an Oktoberfest event will pop up near you, so you could find a seat in a Bavarian-style beer hall for the occasion. But, if you’re planning a warm and cosy homage at home, then a 5.3% ABV Erdinger Weissbier is a good bet. From a brewer with heritage dating back to 1886 – making it the largest brewer of wheat beers in the world – this Weissbier offers an incredible sensory explosion. It pours a cloudy, creamy yellow and offers sweet, ripe banana and

Hobgoblin Ruby Beer £3.99 (four 500ml cans), Sainsbury’s

October holds fond memories of ghosts and ghouls gliding about our house at one messy Halloween party

will help you while away the hours as we wave goodbye to summer for another year.

This month also marks our wedding anniversary, and this year is our tenth. My husband Austen homebrewed and bottled his own Extra-Special Bitter for the beer-drinking guests that will be attending our main event. Of course, we’ve also kept some bottles as souvenirs of the big day a decade ago. When we open those beers at the end of the month, my Instagram will reveal whether it has aged well – fingers crossed!

To read more from Marverine, go to bbcgoodfood.com/author/ marverinecole

Citrus Pale Ale £1.80 per 300ml can, M&S

Erdinger Weissbier £1.80 per 500ml bottle, Tesco

clove aromas on the nose. That translates on the tongue alongside some spicy notes, too. Then, you get hit by the sweetness and mild bitterness, all of which makes this beer a perfect complement to pork schnitzel and sauerkraut. Prost!

For anyone wanting to usher in autumn in a slightly less frantic fashion than clashing steins in a beer hall, this light and zesty number is just the ticket: Citrus Pale Ale from M&S is one of an all-new range of own-label beers.

London’s Fourpure Brewery produce this easy-drinking beauty at a sessionable 3.9% ABV. The lower alcohol strength makes it a late-afternoon or even early-evening thirst-quencher that

Marverine Cole is an accredited beer sommelier, broadcaster and journalist who’s won several awards.

She’s a member of the British Guild of Beer Writers, and has collaborated with breweries on her own beers.

She’s conducted tastings on ITV’s This Morning, and extolled the virtues of Britain’s national drink on various BBC shows. She can usually be found in a pub somewhere in the West Midlands. You can listen to Marverine’s podcast, Beer Beauty, wherever you get your podcasts. marverinecole.co.uk @BeerBeauty @TVMarv

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 125

Drinks Taste Awards HOW WE DID IT We asked supermarkets to send in the drinks they wanted to nominate for each of our categories. Over a week, our expert judging panel taste-tasted more than 70 products from nine national supermarkets to bring you our definitive list of top drinks buys for 2021. The testing took place both remotely and in our test kitchen, with judges receiving boxes of coded sample bottles arranged by category so they could blind-test from home. In some categories, the judges chose to award a runner-up as well as a winner. We also asked Richard Davie and Miriam Nice to provide serving suggestions for each winner.

Read on to find out which spirits, mixers and canned cocktails came out on top in our first-ever Drinks Taste Awards.

• For more details and serving suggestions, visit bbcgoodfood.com

BEST SLOE GIN WINNER M&S Sloe Gin £15 (50cl), M&S and Ocado Less sweet than many others on the market, this has a strong whack of sloe on the nose, with a surprisingly dry body and lots of almond on the finish.

SERVE: the comparative dryness of this sloe gin is best enjoyed by sipping neat.

126 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

BEST PINK GIN WINNER The Harmonist Rhubarb & Ginger Gin £16.99 (70cl), Spar A rich example of the multifarious pink gin style, loaded with rhubarb and given a welcome complexity with sherbet-like grapefruit and ginger spice.

SERVE: bring out those fruity notes in a classic gin sour.

BEST GIN WINNER The Melodist London Dry Gin £20 (70cl), Tesco Cardamom is easy to overdo, but here it chimes with citrus and juniper without being one-note.

SERVE: make G&T in a balon glass garnished with basil and raspberries to counter the spicy notes.

RUNNER UP Irresistible Premium Gin £17.50 (70cl), Co-op Predominantly a classic juniper-led gin, but with lemon, orange and cinnamon on a light body.

SERVE: the citrus notes will add another layer to a gin fizz (find a recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

opinion

2021

Our judging panel blind-tasted over 70 drinks products to find the best own-brand supermarket bottles worthy of a place in your home bar this year photographs NEIL WATSON BEST SCOTCH WHISKY WINNER Morrisons Blended Scotch Whisky £11.49 (70cl) Opulent, with baked orchard fruits, oak, creamy vanilla and hints of oat and pineapple. An easy-drinking crowd-pleaser.

SERVE: serve over ice or in a scotch-based cocktail like a rusty nail.

BEST VODKA WINNER French Grain Vodka £18.19 (70cl), Spar A classic, clean vodka with a smooth and slightly creamy body and an intriguing touch of minerality to the nose.

SERVE: try a vodka highball for light refreshment.

RUNNER UP St Gérmont Premium French Vodka £14.99 (70cl), Aldi A boozy nose and full body with lemon and pepper accents.

SERVE: in a classic harvey wallbanger (find a recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

BEST WHISKY WINNER Glen Marnoch 12 Year Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky £19.99 (70cl), Aldi A fruity nose with baked apple, vanilla and mixed spice, this single malt gives even more depth on tasting, with lots of toasty butterscotch richness.

SERVE: take your time sipping it neat or with a drop of spring water to open it up.

BEST AMARETTO WINNER Tesco Amaretto Liqueur £8 (50cl) Deep amber with a rich almond and vanilla nose and a sweet, smooth body that moves from marzipan to baked pudding.

SERVE: try it neat over ice or in an amaretto sour (find a recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

RUNNER UP Bellucci Amaretto £4.99 (50cl), Aldi This has a strong almond flavour that stands up to mixing, amaretti biscuit on the nose and a light body.

SERVE: in affogato (find a recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 127

BEST DARK RUM WINNER Irresistible Pineapple Rum £20 (70cl), Co-op A big package jam-packed with tropical fruits on the nose that lead to a massive ripe pineapple hit. Plus, unlike a lot of flavoured spirits, this retains a cocktail-worthy 40% ABV. SERVE: use in a pineapple & rum cake or serve long with cola for a dark rum twist on a cuba libre (find both recipes on bbcgoodfood.com).

RUNNER UP Caribbean Dark Rum £15 (1 litre), Morrisons A solid dark rum with deep brown sugar, baked apples and vanilla coming through alongside a slightly under-ripe pineapple element.

The vanilla fades into a woody note on the finish.

SERVE: as a long drink with ginger beer over ice, it is especially delicious.

BEST CANNED GIN AND TONIC WINNER Tesco Gin & Tonic £1 per 250ml can Delicately flavoured, but opens up with a nip of juniper to remind you of the gin in there.

SERVE: well-chilled, with a lemon slice and rosemary sprig or cucumber slice for a fresh garnish.

BEST CANNED BERRY COCKTAIL WINNER M&S Blackberry Gin Bramble £2 per 250ml can, M&S and Ocado This fun, fruity cocktail is packed with ripe berry flavours that are balanced by a double measure of dry gin to offset the sweetness.

SERVE: well-chilled, ideally with a handful of crushed ice and a mint sprig garnish.

128 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

BEST WHITE RUM WINNER Caribbean White Rum £15 (1 litre), Tesco An ideal mixing rum, with a light, grassy nose, subtle pineapple and hints of green sugar cane that add complexity without dominating a cocktail.

SERVE: in a mojito (find a recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

RUNNER UP Caribbean Pearl White Rum £11 (70cl), Sainsbury’s This is a slightly more assertive white rum, with ripe banana esters, dark sugar notes and some heat. Its full mouthfeel balances things out.

SERVE: treat yourself to a more traditional white rum cuba libre – the deep sugar flavour will work perfectly.

opinion

BEST COGNAC WINNER Finest XO Cognac £35 (50cl), Tesco Vine fruits take the lead, with spices, biscuits, orchard fruits, a hint of smoke and vanilla giving way to a little woody note at the finish.

SERVE: an XO should stand on its own merits – enjoy as is.

RUNNER UP Aldi VSOP Gold Coated Cognac (70cl) £24.99 A slightly more aggressive cognac, this showcases hints of leather and tobacco, with peach, walnuts and golden syrup to balance it out.

SERVE: when isn’t a brandy and soda just the ticket, especially when made with cognac?

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist AMY KINNEAR | Stylist FAYE WEARS

Words MIRIAM NICE, RICHARD DAVIE

BEST TONIC WATER WINNER Asda Indian Tonic Water £2 for eight 150ml cans This tonic comes with an upfront bitterness that stops it from being sugary.

It’s moreish, but leaves enough space to stand up against a classic juniper-heavy gin.

SERVE: if gin doesn’t grab you, pour this over a freshly drawn espresso in an ice-filled glass.

BEST BRANDY WINNER No.1 Armagnac VSOP £25 (70cl), Waitrose & Partners A subtle nose with hints of fire. On the palate, this armagnac has a balance of sweetness with baked stone fruits set against some spice, coffee and woody notes.

SERVE: armagnac doesn’t get as much love as cognac, so take your time over a snifter.

RUNNER UP The Best Napoleon Brandy £16.50 (70cl), Morrisons A less in-your-face example, this has upfront sweetness, spice and vanilla, followed by a dry finish with a sense of age about it.

SERVE: a french 75 sings when you swap out the gin for a brandy like this one (find a recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

BEST FLAVOURED TONIC WATER WINNER Ridge Valley Mediterranean Tonic Water £1.19 (750ml), Aldi There’s enough citrus flavour in this to forgo that lemon slice in your G&T, if you like. It also has a pleasing sharpness and intense carbonation.

SERVE: pour into a classic G&T to add a fresh note.

Bump up the citrus with a lemon slice garnish.

& THE GOOD FOOD JUDGING PANEL Miriam Nice Good Food drinks writer; Hannah Guinness olive drinks writer; Georgina Kiely digital food editor; Liberty Mendez recipe developer; Janine Ratcliffe deputy magazines editor; Richard Davie brewer, drinks writer and consultant

See Miriam and Liberty at the BBC Good Food Show Winter at Birmingham’s NEC, 25-28 November. Turn to page 86 for more information or visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 129

Subscribers always save more SIX-BOTTLE CASE FOR JUST £38.94 – TURN TO PAGE 46 FOR MORE OFFERS

Chenin blanc

Each month Henry Jeffreys showcases a different grape variety, plus get a great deal on a case of mixed wines

Chenin Blanc is one of the wine world’s great all-rounders.

Dry, sweet, sparkling, still, oaked, unoaked, on its own, in a blend – it can do it all. Its home is the Loire in France, but you’re most likely to encounter it in South Africa and cooler parts of Australia. You’ll recognise Chenin Blanc from its refreshing acidity and distinctive apple-like fruit.

Wine Club star Under the Lemon Tree Chenin Blanc South Africa has plenty of old-vine chenin wines at a great price. This one has mouth-watering freshness with intense apple and citrus fruit. It’s great with pork shoulder and apple sauce or poached salmon, and is included in the exclusive case, opposite.

Need to know

Tasting notes

In the Loire, chenin is used in a broad range of wines. It’s commonly a solo performer in Saumur, Anjou and Vouvray.

Confusingly, chenins from the Loire, like Vouvray, can range from fully dry (sec) to off-dry (demi-sec), or very sweet (moelleux). Check the bottle.

Crémant de Loire and Saumur sparkling wines are often chenin-based and an affordable alternative to champagne.

In South Africa, nearly 20 per cent of vineyards are planted with chenin. They were originally planted to make brandy, but now produce some of the world’s most characterful wines.

Chenin has a distinct apple taste with mouth-watering acidity, like biting into a Granny Smith. In warmer climates, you might get tropical fruit notes, like pineapple.

Some South African examples are oaked and have spice notes.

Sweeter ones, like Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume, taste of honey and marmalade. The driest wines are from Savennières and have such firm acidity that they need time in the bottle to soften.

Don’t serve it too cold – around 7-10C is ideal. Take it out of the fridge 20 minutes before drinking.

Chenin’s acidity makes it very versatile and a good match for fatty foods or goat’s cheese.

Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, selects all of the wines on offer to BBC Good Food readers. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com.

He’s also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His book, The Home Bar (£25, Jacqui Small), is out now.

A wine for every dish Ever wondered which white wine to match with your pasta? Or curious as to the best reds for steak night? Get clued-up with Henry’s tasting notes and recipe pairings for other wines and impress your friends. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/wine-club.

130 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

wine offer

Just

£5.42 a bottle, plus free delivery (usually £7.99)

Buy this 12-bottle case for £65, plus FREE DELIVERY (usually £7.99)

What’s in the box?

La Roccaccia Verdicchio leads your fabulous mixed case. It’s a minerally, elegant white from the hilltop town of Matelica and makes the perfect apéritif.

Then, you have South Africa’s zesty Under the Lemon Tree Chenin Blanc and a refreshing find from Moldova’s impressive Château Vartely. Customers and show judges alike have been going nuts for Coco Rôtie, the multi-gold-winning, brambly Shiraz Viognier from Australia’s RedHeads winery. Now that the cooler months are here, you’ll be needing a hearty Malbec, like Argentina’s smoky Sierra del Plata. The Lucky Five from South Africa’s Spier Estate rounds off your case in fruit-filled fashion. Plus, you’ll receive a free Dartington Crystal carafe

(usually £25) to help you serve your wine in classic style.

Start your wine adventure today: Simply choose an introductory case: all-whites, all-reds or mixed available for just £65, plus get a FREE Dartington Crystal carafe (usually £25) and free delivery (usually £7.99). We’ll suggest new cases every 12 weeks and you can stop or pause your plan at any time. We’re confident you’ll enjoy every bottle – or your money back.

FREE Dartington carafe (usually £25)

Your deal at a glance Join the BBC Good Food Wine Club today: y Choice of whites, reds or mixed cases for £5.42 a bottle, delivered every 12 weeks y FREE Dartington Crystal carafe (usually £25) y Free delivery (usually £7.99)

To order your case online, go to bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com/october Or call 03300 242 855 and quote code 4755001 Terms & conditions BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaites. Free delivery with this offer (usually £7.99). Offer valid until 30 November 2021 and available while stocks last. In the unlikely event of a wine becoming unavailable, a substitute of similar style and equal or greater value will be supplied. If you are unhappy with any substitutions, Laithwaites will arrange collection at its cost. Orders will be delivered within three working days (delivery to Northern Ireland and the Scottish Highlands may be longer). UK addresses only, excluding Channel Islands. Visit bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com for full terms and conditions. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites. Laithwaites Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire, RG7 4SW. Future cases: every 12 weeks and at Christmas, if eligible, you will be notified of the next Wine Plan selection, which you will automatically receive unless you request otherwise. All future selections of the Season’s Favourites Wine Plan will be charged at £107.88 plus £7.99 for delivery. By joining a Wine Plan, you authorise us to deduct such subsequent amounts from the credit or debit card that you used to pay for the introductory Wine Plan case. You can delay or stop your deliveries of Laithwaites Wine Plan cases at any time.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 131

Recycle in style offer with EKO Home reader

Save 20% on smart recycling waste solutions from EKO Home Recycling is an essential part of all our lives, and it’s often necessary to split the different types of waste in your home, especially in the kitchen. The Ecocasa collection from EKO Home provides an ideal, practical solution, whether you’re separating general waste from recycling, or dividing different types of recyclable materials.

Expertly designed, these multi-compartment bins fit snugly against the wall, and the Ecocasa will continue to look good for years, as they’re made with high-quality, brushed stainless steel and finished with a fingerprint-proof coating. The soft-close lid has a quiet, smooth action and, if you have a lot of waste, there’s a stay-open function, too.

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You can also make your food recycling easier with the EKO Deco Food Caddy with compostable liners.

This caddy will look smart and neat on your kitchen counter. The stay-open lid and its antibacterial properties will keep it hygienic and easy to clean, too.

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TO ORDER visit ekohome.co.uk, search for Ecocasa or Deco Food

Caddy, select your bin and use code BBCSAVING at checkout to receive your exclusive 20% discount TERMS AND CONDITIONS Offer closes 14 November 2021 or while stocks last. P&P included with all orders over £40 in the UK. 20% discount applied only to the products listed on the offer page. Prices correct at time of printing.

For orders outside the UK, visit ekohome.co.uk for details. UK delivery within two to five days, European delivery within 12 days. If you are not completely satisfied with your order, please return goods unused and in resaleable condition, sealed in the original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless product faulty). Offer available while stocks last and not redeemable with other coupons or offers.

132 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

B O O ST YO U R

cooking skills Get confident in the kitchen with tips and advice from the Good Food team THIS MONTH

Watch our skills videos at bbcgoodfood.com/video We love to see what you’re making, too: share your recipes on our BBC Good Food Together Facebook page and on Instagram #wearebbcgoodfood

Vivek Singh’s paratha recipe, p134

Gluten-free choc cake, p136

Mandy Yin’s sambal shiok, p140

L E V E L T NEX E I P N O I N O & E S E E H C classic a h it w it ll fi d n a y r st Learn to master pa hearty recipe on page 138 combination in our

Mexican hot chocolate, p144

& The new cuts to try in your casseroles, p141

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 133

PODCAST EXTRA

Vivek Singh Cinnamon Club owner and chef Vivek Singh explains how to make his potato-stuffed parathas Stuffed paratha This is a popular Punjabi breakfast, but in fact, parathas are cooked up and down the country in India in so many different ways and forms. A homemade one is a real treat.

550g chapatti flour, plus extra for dusting 25ml vegetable oil 3 tbsp ghee For the potato filling 550g Desiree potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 5 green chillies, finely chopped 2.5cm piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped 50g coriander, finely chopped 1 red onion, finely chopped 1 ½ tsp carom seeds 1 ½ tsp chilli powder To serve (optional) 200ml Greek yogurt 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp cumin seeds, crushed 50g salted butter, to serve (optional)

1 Mix together the flour, 1 tsp salt, the oil and 225ml water in a bowl to make a stiff dough. Leave to rest for 15 mins.

2 Meanwhile, make the potato filling. Boil the potatoes until just tender, about 10 mins, then drain and leave to cool a little. Finely grate the potato into a large bowl. Add the remaining filling ingredients and mix together with 1 tsp salt.

3 Divide the dough and filling into 12 equal portions. Take a ball of dough and make an indent in the

centre with your thumb. Keep pressing and rotating the dough in your hand to make the cavity slightly larger than the size of a ball of the filling. The edge around the cavity of dough should be slightly thinner than the rest of it. Sit the ball of stuffing in the cavity and bring the dough together around the filling to cover it.

Make sure there aren’t any gaps, or the stuffing will spill out.

4 Lightly dust the parathas with flour, gently flatten, then roll out into a circle, roughly 20cm.

5 Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a medium-low heat and add a rolled-out paratha. Cook for about 2-3 mins on each side. When both sides have some colour, brush all over with a little ghee, and

134 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

& Tune in to the Rookie & Nice Podcast where you can hear Vivek Singh talking to Miriam and Nadiya. Available to download from Acast, Spotify, iTunes and other podcast services.

transfer to a foil-lined plate. While the first paratha is cooking, prepare the next one. You can keep the pile of parathas warm by loosely wrapping them in foil.

6 Mix the Greek yogurt with 1 tsp salt, the sugar, crushed cumin seeds and a splash of water to loosen slightly. Serve with the parathas, alongside an Indian pickle of your choice. Or, simply enjoy with cold salted butter, if you like.

PER PARATHA 261 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 3g • carbs 43g • sugars 1g • fibre 3g • protein 6g • salt 0.9g

Photographs JONATHAN GREGSON, JAN-PETER WESTERMANN/STOCKFOOD, INDIAPIX/INDIAPICTURE/GETTY

MAKES 12 PREP 30 mins COOK 25 mins MORE EFFORT V

STEPS TO SUCCESS

HOMEMADE BURGERS Follow our tips for making juicy patties, then serve with different toppings

z Look for beef mince with a decent amount of fat – around 10-15% is good. This will baste your burgers from within and keep them juicy. If you have a good butcher, ask for aged beef mince, which will give you the deepest, beefiest flavour.

W H AT I S V E LV E T I N G ?

The process of tossing chicken in cornflour and other ingredients before frying is a traditional Chinese technique that’s also known as velveting.

The cornflour tenderises the protein in the meat and gives it a light coating, which keeps the chicken succulent when fried. Sometimes, a beaten egg white is added to the coating, which makes it more of a light batter, but a simple mix of cornflour and soy sauce, plus any other spices or herbs for flavour, works well too.

cornflour tenderises the protein and gives the chicken a light coating

RTER A T S N E KITCH

z Use a fish slice or spatula to squash the patty down and make sure all the surface is touching the hot pan. Don’t overcrowd the pan as this will lower its temperature, stopping the caramelisation process.

z Once you’ve shaped your patties, oil the outside lightly, then season heavily. This will help create the caramelised crust on the burger.

z If you’re adding cheese to the burger, cover the pan with a lid after topping. The steam created will melt the cheese quickly so the burger doesn’t overcook.

z For frying, choose a heavy griddle or frying pan and get it smoking hot. This is why it’s important to oil the burger, not the pan, as you’d create lots more smoke and splatter if you add oil to the hot pan.

z Look for brioche-style burger buns – these are denser, springier and less likely to fall apart when eating. Toasting the buns on the cut sides adds flavour as well texture to the finished burger.

KIT

d e p a h s Y peeler

peeler A Y-shaped ut is a cheap b e le part of th indispensab er arsenal. kitchen draw ay jobs, like From everyd rnut ds and butte u p s g n li e e p mber reating cucu squash to c lads bbons for sa and carrot ri or wafer-thin and stir-fries ally rmesan, it re a p f o s g in v sha e this sker. We lov ta ilt u m a is ich om OXO, wh fr io tr r le e e p dard r-sharp stan zo ra a h it w comes dder s a veg shre a ll e w s a r peele eler. soft fruit pe r o to a m to and

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 135

WEEKEND PROJECT

Free-from baking S

pend time at the weekend making this fudgy chocolate cake with rich, thick chocolate frosting. It’s suitable for those following a gluten-free diet, too.

Gluten-free chocolate cake

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Oil the base of two 18cm sandwich tins and line with baking parchment. Mix together the gluten-free flour, xanthan gum, cocoa, baking powder, bicarb, a large pinch of salt and both sugars together in a large bowl.

2 Whisk the golden syrup, eggs, oil, yogurt, milk and coffee together in a jug. Gradually whisk the wet ingredients into the dry until you have a smooth mixture.

3 Pour into the prepared tins and bake for 30-35 mins until risen and firm to the touch. Leave to cool for 10 mins in the tins before turning out onto a cooling rack.

4 For the buttercream, melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water, ensuring the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Or melt in short bursts in the microwave, stirring between each burst. Leave to cool slightly. Meanwhile, beat the icing sugar, cocoa, butter and milk together for 5 mins until smooth and fluffy. Slowly beat in the melted chocolate, scraping down the sides of the bowl.

5 Spread half the buttercream over the middle of one sponge using a small palette knife. Put the other sponge on top, with the flat bottom facing up. Spread the remaining buttercream around the top and sides of the cake, smoothing with a palette knife. If you have any buttercream left, you can pipe rosettes on top of the cake.

PER SERVING 604 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 13g • carbs 66g • sugars 50g • fibre 2g • protein 6g • salt 1g

136 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Other images ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, SOLIDCOLOURS/E+/GETTY

150ml vegetable oil, plus extra for the tins 175g plain gluten-free flour 1 tsp xanthan gum 50g cocoa powder 1 tbsp baking powder ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 75g dark brown soft sugar 75g caster sugar 2 tbsp golden syrup 2 eggs 100g Greek yogurt 100ml milk 2 tbsp instant coffee, dissolved in 4 tbsp hot water For the chocolate buttercream 65g dark chocolate 300g icing sugar 25g cocoa powder 150g soft salted butter 3 tbsp milk

Recipe LIBERTY MENDEZ | Photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL Stylist SARAH BIRKS

SERVES 10 PREP 45 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

WHY I LOVE

My Keralan clay chatti Chef and director of Hoppers restaurants, Karan Gokani, shares his treasured kitchen kit. @karancooks

YES, IT WORKS!

F R E S H B AY L E AV E S A N D C U S TA R D

The flavour you get when cooking in an earthenware pot over wood-fire is unparalleled.

I first appreciated this while learning how to make a traditional fish curry at a friend’s home in Cochin on my travels around South India, and his mum gifted me a traditional clay pot to take home. I later brought the pan along with me to university in the UK. I use this to cook Sri Lankan and South Indian curries both over a gas hob and the barbecue.

Bay is a sweet-scented herb that works beautifully when gently infused in custard-based desserts, and also complements spices like cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg as well as autumnal fruits.

Try infusing fresh bay leaves in a traditional custard tart filling, the base for ice cream, crème caramels or in panna cotta.

bay leaves

+ custard

MYTH BUSTER

Poaching eggs E? T R U E O R FA L S IEVE H C A S P L E H R VINEGA EGGS D E H C A O P T PERFEC We’re often told to add a splash of white wine vinegar to the water when poaching eggs in order to help set the white. Vinegar does have some effect in this case, but the best way to ensure you have nicely

rounded poachers is to look for the freshest eggs. As eggs get older, the composition of the whites changes and becomes more liquid. A fresh egg white will form a neat little parcel around the yolk.

KITCHEN HACK

Cleaning sticky hands when baking bread Washing your hands to remove bread dough can result in more mess, as the flour gets wet and forms a paste. Most bakers use extra flour to help remove dough from their hands – simply rub them with a dusting of extra flour to remove the excess, then you can wash your hands without a floury paste clogging up your sink.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 137

NEXT LEVEL

Cheese & onion pie recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph JONATHAN GREGSON

HALF AND HALF A mixture of cubed and grated cheese helps create pockets of oozing cheese in the filling, while also helping it to mingle with the other ingredients.

SERVES 8-10 PREP 40 mins plus at least 30 mins chilling and cooling COOK 1 hr MORE EFFORT V

WHY Just the suggestion of a cheese & onion pie evokes a big, warm hug – it’s a beloved comfort food that’s always sure to please. But, the simplicity of it can lead to shortcuts that compromise its beauty – bland cheese, undercooked onions and butter-free pastry can make it (and those who are served it) feel unloved. Here, we put in the extra effort and spend a bit more time to create a modern classic that’s as good to eat cold as it is warm.

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food styling ELLIE JARVIS | Styling MAX ROBINSON

W H AT T O B U Y For the pastry 250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 50g rye flour (or make up the weight with plain flour) large pinch of cayenne pepper 1 tsp onion seeds 25g parmesan or vegetarian alternative, finely grated 125g cold butter, cubed 1 egg, beaten For the filling 40g butter 3 large onions, finely sliced 2 bay leaves 1 tbsp thyme leaves 1 medium potato (about 350g), halved lengthways and sliced 100ml double cream 150g extra mature cheddar, ½ grated, ½ chopped into small chunks

138 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

PA S T RY our PERFECT p of making te s a tr x e e n th can use We’ve take ipe, so we c re is th r fo elow). own pastry iness (see b tt u n d d a y with rye flour to d the pastr re u o v a fl o We’ve als tard and seeds, mus n io n o , n a parmes e filling. plement th m o c to e n cayen

EXTRA THYME Fresh thyme matches well with sweet cooked onions, adding fragrance and a herbal note. Rather than just infusing it into the mixture, it’s chopped and added, so the flavour is more prominent.

STICKY ONIONS Take your time to really caramelise the onions – this will ensure you get the best flavour out of them and that they’re as soft as possible, so they disappear into the sauce.

WHY RYE? As well as adding a nutty flavour, rye flour retains more of that flavour when the pie is served cold. But, this is optional – if you don’t have rye flour, you can simply use a total of 300g plain flour.

skills next level

BALANCING FLAVOURS A touch of warmth from cayenne and mustard powder seasons this pie, which could otherwise be on the sweet side (due to the caramelised onions and cream).

FREE-F ORM To make this recip e more accessib le, rathe r than us dish, we ing a pie ’ve gone the sligh route an tly easie d made r a giant f pasty pie r e e -f o rm for cuttin g into w edges.

LLI N G KER FI C I H T route FOR A ditional a r t e h t ne h We’ve go filling wit e h t t u o g boiling of bulkin ther than a r t u b , oked potatoes we’ve co , m e h t hing starch and mas s so their n io n o e h th mier. them wit ven crea e it e k a m helps to

DOUBLE CHEESE A traditional cheese pie would only have cheese in the filling, but we’ve made it extra-cheesy by adding parmesan to the pastry.

ONION L AY E R S The mild flavour o f cooked onions is enhance d by the onio n seeds in the pastry, w hich also g ive the pie a bit more texture.

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HOW TO MAKE IT 1 First, make the pastry. Tip the flours into a medium bowl with the cayenne, onion seeds, parmesan and a generous pinch of salt. Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs, then pour in half the egg and 2 tbsp cold water and bring everything together using your hands. Knead a couple of times until smooth. Flatten a third of the dough into a disc, then do the same with the remaining dough. Wrap both pastry discs and chill in the fridge for at least 30 mins. Will keep chilled for up to two days.

2 Meanwhile, make the filling. Heat the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat until sizzling, then scatter in the onions, bay, thyme, a large pinch of salt and good grinding of black pepper. Stir, then cook slowly for 10 mins until the onions have cooked down and started to caramelise.

Stir in the sliced potatoes, cover and cook for 8-10 mins more, stirring occasionally until the potatoes are soft and starting to break down. Stir in the cream, remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool. Once cool, remove and discard the bay, then fold in the cheese.

3 Roll the smaller pastry disc out on a lightly floured surface to the size of a dinner plate and lift onto a baking sheet lined with baking parchment. Roll out the remaining pastry disc along with any offcuts to a circle about 5cm wider than the first. Spoon the filling into the middle of the smaller circle on the baking sheet, leaving a 4cm border.

Brush the exposed border with some of the remaining beaten egg, then drape over the larger pastry circle. Tuck the edge around the filling to enclose it, as if making a giant ravioli. Trim the edge to neaten, then crimp with a cutlery knife handle or fork to seal. Brush the pie all over with most of the remaining beaten egg, and use any trimmings to make decorations, if you like.

4 Heat the oven to 210C/190C fan/ gas 7. Bake the pie for 35-40 mins until deeply golden, brushing with the rest of the beaten egg halfway through. Leave to cool on the baking sheet for at least 20 mins before cutting into wedges, or leave to cool completely and serve cold.

PER SERVING (10) 417 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 17g • carbs 34g • sugars 5g • fibre 4g • protein 10g • salt 0.6g

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OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 139

COOKBOOK CHALLENGE

Sambal Shiok by Mandy Yin Editor Keith Kendrick tries Mandy’s fiery and addictive stir-fried lamb from Malaysia

S

& Recipe adapted from Sambal Shiok by Mandy Yin (£25, Quadrille).

Photographs by Louise Hagger.

hiok’ in Malay slang means something or an experience that is ‘shockingly good’. That’s the perfect way to describe the lamb ribs I cooked from Mandy Yin’s new book. She describes them as ‘sticky, fiery hot and addictive’. I’m going with ‘shiok’. I’ve rarely had lamb ribs before, mainly because they aren’t the easiest thing to get hold of. When I went to my local butcher, he looked perplexed.

‘Nobody has ever asked for those,’ he said. But he disappeared and came back with two sheets of them.

Easily enough for four people – and just £9 in total. Shiok!

Mandy’s inspiration for the dish is sambal kambing goreng – fried lamb chops with green chillies – which she had at a Malay restaurant on London’s Edgware Road. ‘It is one of those dishes that lingers in my memory, it was that good,’ she says. They’re marinated and slow-cooked until the fat renders, then tossed in the same fat along with a garlic-chilli paste.

Mandy’s book is full of such surprises, as she says, ‘My aim is to highlight a cross-section of Malaysian cooking: Malay, Indian, Chinese, Peranakan and tribal Iban.’ It’s the kind of food she creates at her London restaurant, Sambal Shiok. Her book showcases a selection of Malaysian-inspired recipes from snacks and salads, to noodle soups, curries and sweets.

So what about the ‘sambal’ part of the title? Is it a pickle, a condiment or a dipping sauce?

Mandy says, ‘It is all of them. It’s that special little je ne sais quoi that Malaysian cooks offer on the side of every meal, to add chilli heat. Variations are endless.’

140 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

TRY IT YO U RS ELF Lamb in tamarind & green chilli SERVES 2-3 PREP 10 mins plus overnight marinating and resting COOK 1 hr 40 mins EASY

1kg lamb breast, cut into individual ribs 10 green chillies, roughly chopped 4 garlic cloves 1 tsp white sugar cooked rice, to serve (optional) For the marinade 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 tbsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground white pepper 11/2 tbsp dark brown sugar 2 tbsp tamarind paste

1 Mix all the marinade ingredients together with 21/2 tsp salt in a large bowl, then combine with the meat.

Cover and chill overnight.

2 Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/ gas 3. Put the lamb ribs on a wire rack set over a roasting tin and roast

for 90 mins. Check every 15 mins, moving pieces that are more coloured away from the heat, and turning them halfway. The meat should be tender enough to pull away from the bone but not fall off.

3 While the lamb is cooking, put the green chillies and garlic in a food processor and pulse to finely chop.

4 Remove the lamb from the oven, immediately wrap in foil to keep it moist and let it rest for 20 mins.

5 Meanwhile, use a fine metal strainer to pour off the fat from the roasting tin into a bowl, discarding any burnt bits of marinade.

6 Pour the fat into a large frying pan over a medium heat and stir-fry the chilli-garlic mix for 2 mins. Turn off the heat and mix in the sugar.

Add the ribs to the pan and stir to coat. Divide the ribs between plates and pour over the chilli mixture.

Serve with rice, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • gluten free PER SERVING 764 kcals • fat 57g • saturates 24g • carbs 19g • sugars 17g • fibre 3g • protein 42g • salt 4.6g

skills extras

BUTCHER’S BLOCK

Swap your stew Butcher Jessica Wragg looks at alternative cuts for casseroles When it comes to the nights drawing in, there’s little more comforting than a slow-braised dish with crusty bread or root veg. But stews can sometimes feel a little repetitive. In this column, I’m offering up tips on how to change up your casseroles, simply by trying out a new cut.

RAGU Instead of beef shin, try lamb neck.

On or off the bone, dare I say that lamb neck makes the most delicious ragu you’ll find. Cooked for three to four hours with plenty of tomatoes, wine, garlic and onions, lamb neck reduces down until it melts, producing a rich and flavourful sauce for your ragu.

running through the middle, which when cooked down melts into gelatinous fat. It adds a real richness to a beef bourguignon, and stands up to the flavour of the red wine and onions beautifully.

& Visit bbcgood food.com for plenty of stew and casserole inspiration.

CASSEROLES Instead of lamb shanks, try veal shin for an osso buco (an Italianstyle veal braise). Veal production in the UK has come on leaps and bounds in recent years.

Replace the red wine in the casserole with white wine and add a little thyme, and you’ll be rewarded with light, tender meat and a beautifully rich sauce as the marrow melts into the pot.

BOURGUIGNON Instead of chuck steak, try thick slices of feather blade. The feather blade has a layer of sinew

& Jessica’s book Girl on The Block (£20, Dey Street, Harper Collins) is out now.

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 141

skills extras

We asked Nicolò Calogero, mozzarella specialist at Eataly, the Italian food market in London, how to make this famous Italian cheese at home

Nicolò says, ‘At Eataly (eataly. co.uk), we use around 500 litres of milk per day to make cheese for our restaurants and customers, acidifying the milk, creating curds and whey, then stretching by hand into the various styles of mozzarella (see right). But you can make it in your own kitchen with some special equipment and patience!’

Homemade mozzarella You’ll need a non-reactive pan, such as stainless steel, that will comfortably fit five litres of milk, a larger pan, and a kitchen thermometer (an instant-read one is best for this).

MAKES 2-3 balls PREP 5 mins COOK 3 hrs 30 mins A CHALLENGE V

5 litres whole milk 150ml natural whole yogurt 3ml vegetarian rennet (just over ½ tsp – see tip below)

1 Pour the milk into a large deep pan and set over a low heat until it reaches 38C on a thermometer.

Remove from the heat, add the yogurt, mix well, then cover with a lid and leave for 25 mins.

2 Add the rennet, stirring very gently, then cover again and leave for another 15-20 mins.

3 Remove the lid and check if the curds have coagulated and separated from the whey. Use a large whisk or a knife to break up the curds very gently to create pieces around the size of a hazelnut.

4 Heat a larger pan half-full with water over a gentle heat to 40C. Put the pan containing the curds into the larger pan to create a bain-marie and check the water temperature frequently to ensure it stays at around 40C. Top up the water from time to time if needed.

5 After 2 hrs 30 mins, remove the curds from the pan using a slotted spoon and leave to drain in a colander for about 15 mins. Cut the curds into small pieces and put in a large heatproof bowl.

6 Empty the pan of water, then refill and heat to 85C. Pour the hot water over the curds and mix with a wooden spoon for 30-40 seconds.

Strain off almost all the water and again, add water at 85C to cover.

7 Fold and stretch the curd in the water using the wooden spoon.

Keep working until the curds start to become elastic. Now work the curds by folding and stretching by hand (the water will be hot so wear rubber gloves) until they become smooth and elastic.

8 Take smaller pieces of the curd and shape into balls. Immediately put in a tub of cold water and chill in the fridge. Can be kept in water, covered, and chilled for up to a week.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • gluten free PER BALL (3) 424 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 23g • carbs none • sugars none • fibre none • protein 31g • salt 0.7g

tip You can buy rennet and cheesemaking equipment from online retailers including cheesemakingshop.co.uk.

142 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

TYPES OF MOZZARELLA Eataly’s guide to the different shapes, styles and flavours FIOR DI LATTE MOZZARELLA Meaning ‘flower of the milk,’ fior di latte mozzarella is your classic, traditional mozzarella. It’s made with fresh whole cow’s milk and has a sweet, light, and delicate flavour with an elastic texture.

MOZZARELLA DI BUFALA DOP Made with the milk of water buffalo, mozzarella di bufala offers a tangier and sweeter flavour than traditional fior di latte mozzarella. Thanks to its creaminess, it’s highly prized as a pizza topping, but is just as good served on its own.

It’s often denoted with a DOP status, a label to show that it’s made entirely in its region of origin, Campania.

STRACCIATELLA This is extremely soft and creamy. Deriving its name from the Italian word straccia, meaning ‘rag’ or ‘shred,’ stracciatella is created with shreds of mozzarella curds and fresh cream.

It’s great for spreading over bread or even stirring into pasta.

BURRATA Originally from Puglia in a small town in the Province of Bari, burrata consists of a ‘pouch’ of stretched mozzarella cheese filled with cream-soaked stracciatella.

While it consists of mozzarella parts, burrata is much richer and creamier, with a looser texture. Sprinkle with sea salt and a drizzle of quality olive oil to experience the full flavour.

BOCCONCINI Bocconcini, meaning ‘small mouthfuls,’ are smaller, bite-sized forms of mozzarella – perfect for adding to salads or enjoying in a single bite with fresh basil and tomato.

NODINI Formed by ‘knotting’ mozzarella, this handshaped, literal twist on mozzarella has a smooth, shiny surface and a pleasantly firm texture. The elegant shape of these little knots makes them great for festive occasions.

Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

How to make mozzarella

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D RIN KS CAB IN E T

Hot chocolate special Drinks expert and BBC journalist Vuyelo Ndlovu shares four famous hot chocolate recipes from around the world

H

ot cocoa – rich, creamy, velvety goodness – is amazingly comforting during the colder months. Our love for it far exceeds the bog-standard powdered stuff from a tin. From the traditional to the luxurious, these ideas offer some new and interesting takes on the classic cup.

SERVES 2 PREP 4 mins COOK 3 mins EASY V

125ml double cream 250ml whole milk or single cream 50g dark chocolate (at least 70% cocoa solids), finely chopped demerara sugar, to taste 2 shots of freshly brewed espresso 10g hazelnuts, finely grated or chopped pinch of cocoa powder

1 Whisk the double cream in a bowl until it holds its shape but is still pourable. Set aside.

2 Pour the milk or single cream into a saucepan with the dark chocolate. Stir continuously over a low-medium heat using a whisk until the mixture comes to the boil.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer while continuing to whisk. Add the demerara sugar to taste.

3 Warm two heatproof glasses by rinsing with hot water, then dry and pour in the espresso.

Carefully pour over the chocolate mixture, then top with the whipped cream, hazelnuts and a pinch of cocoa powder.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 567 kcals • fat 51g • saturates 29g • carbs 18g • sugars 16g • fibre 2g • protein 7g • salt 0.2g

144 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

The secret to a frothy top is continuous whisking. In Mexico, a wooden whisk called a molinillo is used, but you can achieve the right texture with an electric whisk.

-----

Using dark cocoa powder helps to achieve a richer flavour.

Mexican hot chocolate The Mayans are credited for making the first chocolate drink as early as 500 BC. Served cold and bitter, the concoction was made using crushed cocoa beans, cornmeal and chilli peppers. This upgraded version is served hot, and as food writer Kiera Wright-Ruiz says, there’s no denying ‘the key to Mexican hot chocolate is a nice layer of foam on top.’ (See our tip for a frothy finish, above.) Follow Kiera on Instagram @kierawrr SERVES 2 PREP 1 min COOK 8 mins EASY V

500ml whole milk 2 cinnamon sticks (use Mexican cinnamon sticks for a distinctly floral, sweeter taste), plus extra to serve 2 tbsp dark cocoa powder (see tip, left) ½ tsp vanilla extract ¼ tsp chilli powder 2 tbsp brown sugar

1 Pour the milk into a medium saucepan, add the cinnamon sticks and stir frequently over a medium heat (don’t let it boil) until the milk is fragrant, about 5 mins.

2 Remove and discard the cinnamon sticks, then add the cocoa, vanilla, chilli powder and sugar. Remove from the heat and whisk until the mixture is smooth and frothy – this will only take a couple of minutes. Divide between two mugs and garnish with fresh cinnamon sticks.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • gluten free PER SERVING 276 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 7g • carbs 32g • sugars 30g • fibre 2g • protein 10g • salt 0.5g

Food stylist KATY GREENWOOD | Stylist AGATHÉ GITS

Italian hot chocolate Bicerin is as traditional as hot chocolate gets, dating back to 1678 when it was imported to Italy via Spain. Its popularity quickly spread across Europe. With an added shot of espresso, expect a good kick from this grown-up, layered hot chocolate – a specialty of Turin.

tips

Photograph TOM REGESTER | Shoot director HAYLEY WARD

Bicerin

skills drinks

Chocolate caliente When adapting the cold and bitter chocolate drink of the Mayans, the Spanish swapped the chilli for sugar.

Their version is best known for being thick and rich in consistency. Angel Zapata Martin, executive chef at Barrafina, says: ‘It’s something that, as a child, we always had.I remember my dad and grandfather added liqueur to theirs – brandy or oloroso cream.’

(See our tip, right, for a boozy flourish.)

SERVES 2 PREP 3 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

500ml whole milk 2 cinnamon sticks large strip each of orange and lemon peel ½ tsp vanilla extract 4 tbsp cocoa powder (or use 175g chocolate chunks for extra richness) 1 tsp cornmeal 2 tbsp brown sugar whipped cream, to serve

Vegan chai hot chocolate This recipe, from Martika LA of The Vegan LDN (follow on Instagram @martikalaofficial), proves that vegan hot chocolate doesn’t mean compromising on flavour or creamy consistency. This spiced winter warmer is ideal for this time of the year, especially when enjoyed with something savoury, such as a toasted vegan ‘cheese’ croissant.

1 Pour the milk into a saucepan with the cinnamon sticks, citrus peels and vanilla. Bring to the boil over a medium heat and boil for 8-10 mins to infuse the milk.

2 Strain the milk through a sieve into a jug. Discard the aromatics and leave the infused milk to cool, then pour into a clean pan with the cocoa and cornmeal. Bring to a simmer over a low heat, whisking now and then until thick and smooth. Divide between mugs and top with whipped cream.

SERVES 2 PREP 2 mins COOK 4 mins EASY V

350ml oat milk (use barista-style for a creamy texture) 1 tsp organic cocoa powder ½ tsp ground cinnamon, plus extra to serve (optional) ½ tsp ground nutmeg, plus extra to serve (optional) 1 cardamom pod ½ tsp ground coffee 1 organic vanilla bean pod, split (or use 1 tbsp vanilla extract) 1 tbsp agave nectar vegan whipped cream and shaved semi-sweet vegan dark chocolate, to serve (optional)

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • gluten free PER SERVING 322 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 9g • carbs 35g • sugars 31g • fibre 3g • protein 13g • salt 0.3g

tip For boozy chocolate caliente, add 25ml brandy or sweet sherry.

To make it extra-special, serve with warm churros for dunking.

1 Pour two-thirds of the oat milk into a saucepan.

Add the cocoa, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom pod and coffee. Bring to the boil over a medium-high heat.

Cook for 1-2 mins.

2 Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the vanilla and agave. Froth the remaining oat milk using an electric milk frother or the mini whisk attachment on a hand blender. Strain the hot chocolate into two mugs, discarding the cinnamon and cardamom pod, then gently pour in the frothed milk.

3 Top with whipped cream, chocolate shavings and a pinch each of cinnamon and nutmeg, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • calcium PER SERVING 161 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 20g • sugars 15g • fibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.2g

& Vuyelo Ndlovu is a multimedia journalist and producer at the BBC who has also written for The Times. Beyond the headlines, she has a passion for exciting and flavourful drinks, which she’s explored for over five years as a trained beers, wines and spirits advisor. She believes in making drink discovery a fun and accessible experience. @thevuyeloln

OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 145

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We test them thoroughly to ensure they work for you

z Read the recipe before starting. Basic storecupboard ingredients, like salt, aren’t included in the ingredients list. z Use standard measuring spoons for accuracy, especially for things like spices, yeast and salt. z Where possible, we use humanely reared and produced British meats, poultry and eggs, and sustainably sourced seafood. z To help avoid waste, we suggest how to use any leftovers you may have from our recipes. z Eggs carrying the British Lion mark guarantee that all hens are vaccinated against salmonella. z We try to avoid using plastic. You’ll find instructions to wrap or cover, but we won’t specify what to use unless it’s vital to the recipe.

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Helping you to eat well Our BANT-registered nutritionist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official recommended amount an adult should consume daily. Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note RIs for total fat, saturates, sugar and salt are the maximum daily amounts).

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OCTOBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 153

last bite

Tonight’s recipe ESTHER CLARK photograph TOM REGESTER

special

Baked cod with orzo & spicy sausage SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY

2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed ½ tsp hot smoked paprika 1 tsp dried oregano 350g orzo 4 tbsp tomato purée

Make a Friday night one-pot with red pepper, orzo, spicy nduja sausage and succulent pieces of cod. It’s comforting, rich and a breeze to make

800ml hot chicken or veg stock 1 rosemary sprig 2 large charred red peppers, from a jar, sliced 30g black olives, drained and halved 40g nduja sausage, crumbled, or spicy chorizo, finely chopped 2 tbsp double cream or mascarpone 4 cod loin fillets ½ small bunch of parsley, finely chopped salad, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Heat the oil in a large shallow 30cm casserole dish or large ovenproof frying pan. Tip in the onion and fry with a pinch of salt over a low heat for 10 mins or until softened and translucent. Add the garlic, paprika and oregano, and cook for 1 min. Add the orzo and tomato purée, then gradually stir in the hot stock. Bring to a simmer, then stir in the rosemary, peppers, olives and sausage, and season to taste. Simmer for 5 mins, stirring occasionally, then stir through the double cream or mascarpone.

2 Sit the cod loins on top and bake in the oven, uncovered, for 12-15 mins or until the fish is cooked through. Scatter over the parsley and serve with salad, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW• fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 715 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 9g • carbs 74g •

tip For a thrifty, vegetarian midweek version of this dish simply ditch the nduja and fish, and top with mozzarella before baking.

in next month’s issue Festive canapés, chocolate orange Christmas pud and a bonus 2022 recipe calendar with our festive edition.

154 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2021

Shoot director HAYLEY XXXXXXXXXX WARD || Food Food stylist stylist XXXXXXXXXX KATY GREENWOOD | Stylist | Stylist XXXXXXXXXX AGATHE GITS

sugars 6g • fibre 6g • protein 49g • salt 2g

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