67i jfty

SINGA POR E harpersbazaar.com.sg

DOUBLE COVER

Stars Align

When

A brig ht new s e a s o n of h o p e a nd roma nce

Fe a t u r i n g

Maddie Ziegler E d d i e B e n ja m i n Lily Collins Ta n K h e n g Hu a L a w r e n c e Wo n g Ay d e n S n g

SINGA POR E harpersbazaar.com.sg

DOUBLE COVER

Stars Align

When

A brig ht new s e a s o n of h o p e a nd roma nce

Fe a t u r i n g

Maddie Ziegler E d d i e B e n ja m i n Lily Collins Ta n K h e n g Hu a L a w r e n c e Wo n g Ay d e n S n g

SEPTEMBER 2021

THE COLLECTIONS Fall/winter 2021 74

STYLE XOXO, Gossip Girl 44 Mix Magic 50 Naughty Nineties 51 Silver Surfer 53 Everyday Goth 55 On the Streets 58 The Comeback Kids 64 C’mon, Dress Happy 68 ON THE COVER Eddie Benjamin and Maddie Ziegler, photographed by Andrew Arthur and styled by Wyman Chang. (Top) (On him) Coat; sweater; trousers, Loewe. Pink gold and diamond LOVE rings, Cartier. (On her) Harness; sweater; trousers, Loewe. Gold and diamond Juste un Clou necklace; (right hand) Clash de Cartier pink gold bracelet; pink gold XL ring; gold and diamond LOVE ring; (left hand) pink gold and onyx Clash de Cartier ring, Cartier. (Above) Dress, Fendi. Clash de Cartier pink gold Supple necklaces; (from top) pink gold and onyx ring; pink gold and diamond ring; pink gold ring, Cartier ON THE FACE (On her) Unlimited Block:Booster primer in Anzu Beige, Shu Uemura. Ultra Le Teint fluid foundation, Chanel. Hyaluronic Pressed Hydra-Powder, By Terry. Luminous Silk Concealer, Giorgio Armani Beauty. (On him) Tom Ford for Men Concealer, Tom Ford Beauty. BOY DE CHANEL Foundation, Chanel ON THE EYES (On her) Stylo À Sourcils Waterproof Eyebrow Pencil in 02 Blond, Gucci Beauty. Brow Set gel in Clear, M.A.C. 5 Couleurs Couture Eyeshadow palette in 649 Nude Dress, Dior. Le Crayon Yeux Precision Eye Definer in 01 Noir 1G, Chanel. Dark Star Mascara, Pat McGrath Labs. (On him) BOY DE CHANEL Eyebrow Pencil, Chanel ON THE CHEEKS (On her) Ambient Lighting Bronzer in Nude Bronze Light, Hourglass. Nudies Bronze multi-purpose cream bronzer stick in Sunkissed, NUDESTIX ON THE LIPS (On her) Dior Addict Lip Glow balm in 012 Rosewood, Dior ON THE HAIR (On her) No Frizz Instant De-Frizzer, Living Proof. Curl Defining Cream, Moroccanoil. Air Control Light Hold Hair Spray, Aveda. (On him) Anti-Frizz Rescue Milk with Shea Butter, Christophe Robin. Style Lock Hairspray, Hanz de Fuko MAKEUP ARTIST Tonya Brewer HAIRSTYLIST Clayton Hawkins MANICURIST Thuy Nguyen CREATIVE PRODUCER Chloé Brinklow STYLIST’S ASSISTANTS Malyssa Lyles; Viviana Garcia LOCATION Prospector Ranch

FABULOUS AT EVERY AGE Fabulous at Every Age 94 How to Look Smokin’ in Mini Dresses 96 Boot Camp 97

FASHION SOME KIND OF WO N DER FU L

Photographed by Andrew Arthur.

Styled by Wyman Chang 16 0 KH E NG A ND A BLE

Photographed by Shawn Paul Tan. Styled by Windy Aulia 176 B EST F OOT F O RWA R D

Photographed by Stefanie Moshammer.

Styled by Amanda Alagem 18 4

Bo ot ,L ou is V uit ton

SEPTEMBER 2021

JEWELS & WATCHES

BAZAAR MAN Rebel with a Cause 127 Fine & Dandy 132 Food for Thought 133 It’s a Man’s World 134 Trending Topics 135 Inspiration 136

Gilt Trip 103 Haute Bijoux 108 Tropical Palette 110 Garden Delights 111 Lily in Lights 116 The Imaginarium 120

a Bag, Prad

A FASHIONABLE LIFE Calm as You Are 137 Talking Points 142 Bon Voyage! 144

BEAUTY

REGULARS

Colour Theory 150 Beauty News 154 Aroma Therapy 155 Return to Glamour 156

Editor’s Note 30 Get the Look 42 Waitlist 56 Horoscope 126 Why Don’t You? 190

W

EDITOR’S NOTE

e all need a little hope, optimism and positivity when we are faced with so much unrest and uncertainty in the world. That’s why on one of the covers of this month’s double-cover issue, you’ll see teenage lovebirds Maddie Ziegler and Eddie Benjamin, glowing with romance and looking great in the season’s hottest fashion and glorious jewels. It’s the first time I’ve featured such a young couple on the cover and I felt that for September, when every glossy magazine shouts about fashion newness or the latest collections, I wanted an extra layer to the style discourse to inspire our readers beyond the sartorial. Which is what this power couple provides. Having been nurtured by Sia (Maggie) and steered by Justin Bieber (Eddie), they are on the cusp of greatness and represent a new generation of creatives who will be touching our lives through our screens and Spotify lists. Turn to page 160 to see the spread shot on a rugged Californian ranch, and read about how they fell in love and navigate their relationship under the glare and scrutiny of social media.

Speaking of social media, we also have two Singapore actors coming from diametrically opposite fields talking about how their lives transact with the platforms. There’s 28-year-old Ayden Sng, who is not your cookie-cutter leading man. Yes, he has the chiselled jawline, the dreamy eyes and the toned bod, but he’s also daring, unconventional and unafraid to take chances. He has wholly embraced Instagram, and is producing shoots of his own in high fashion designer gear and shooting TikTok videos in his living room. He has also done a mean erhu cover of the popular BTS song “Butter”. See this man of many talents in his favourite skirts on page 127. The other Singaporean is celebrated actress Tan Kheng Hua, who, at 58, is 30 years his senior. She says that she personally loves seeing the work of young creatives on social media: “I love what they’re doing in the films I see on YouTube, Not Safe for TV and Viddsee. We have so many wonderful songwriters, all Singaporean, who are so, so good.” Kheng, as she likes to be known, is back in our consciousness and on our screens with an action-adventure TV series this year (catch it on HBO Max). She models the latest fall/winter fashion with all the style and verve of a seasoned professional. Turn to page 176 to see this thespian embrace colour, print, and some of the cosiest faux fur and knits.

We all love a fashion revival and Jeffrey Yan’s “The Comeback Kids” feature on page 64 charts the return of Balenciaga’s couture show, the renaissance of Marc Jacobs, an exciting new designer at Alaïa, and the fantastic match of Jean Paul Gaultier and Chitose Abe in their maiden couture collab. These are some of fashion’s most celebrated creators and it’s wonderful that such magical beauty can emerge during a global pandemic. For more glorious fashion, turn to our extensive “The Collections Report” on page 74 and read all about the key designers to note for the season. And finally, a feature that brings much joy to my heart: “C’mon, Dress Happy” on page 68, which extols the virtues of bold, brilliant colour to uplift spirits and banish the blues. As an editor and fashion lover who has always loved and embraced every Pantone shade (even brown!), nothing sparks more joy than a kaleidoscope of positivity and optimism. Boys in pink? Make mine shocking!

KENNETH GOH Editor-in-Chief KENNIEBOY

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HOW DO YOU FASHION A FEELING?

SEPTEMBER 2021

KENNETH GOH Editor-in-Chief

Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels

Executive Editor

Senior Art Director

CHARMAINE HO

DAPHNE TSO

Associate Fashion Director

Associate Art Director

JEFFREY YAN

JOAN TAI

Associate Style Editor

GRACIA PHANG Contributing Stylist

Creative Director

LAUREN ALEXA

WINDY AULIA

Contributing Subeditor

Digital Director

STEPHANIE YEONG

TAN CHEE BOON Senior Beauty Editor / Social Media Manager

ARISSA HA Senior Digital Writer

SHERMIN NG Social Media Producer

STUDIO Chief Photographer VERONICA TAY Executive Photographer TAN WEI TE Senior Photographers VEE CHIN, PHYLLICIA WANG

ADMINISTRATION & EDITORIAL SUPPORT

NAVIN PILLAY

Senior Manager JULIANA CHONG

OPERATIONS Manager, Ad Ops LIN FENG

Senior Executives WENDY WONG, CYNTHIA LEE

Contributing Photographers Andrew Arthur, Cinqcentquarante, Gan, Zoe Ghertner, Jeremy Kieran, Freya Lamont, Stefanie Moshammer, Stills & Strokes, Shawn Paul Tan, Wee Khim, Zhang Minhua Contributors Amanda Alagem, Chloé Brinklow, Donson Chan, Chan Siew Boon, Wyman Chang, Alison S. Cohn, Ray Kohar, Margaux Jeanne Levy, Jiawa Liu, Claire Menary, Phoebe Taylor, Joel Traptow, Sharon Tulasidas, Peter Watson

HEARST MAGAZINES INTERNATIONAL Senior Vice President/Editorial & Brand Director KIM ST. CLAIR BODDEN Editorial Director, Luxury Brands ELÉONORE MARCHAND International Editions Arabia, Brazil, China, Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Korea, Latin America, Malaysia, Netherlands, Romania, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Serbia, Spain, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, Ukraine, United Kingdom, United States, Vietnam

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Chief Commercial Officer IGNATIUS LOW Head, Commercial Excellence JOANNA HO Head, Ad Product Development & Innovation HELEN LEE Head, Content Marketing PHIN WONG Head, Partnerships & New Growth LINDA LIM Head, Group Marketing SHARON CHEONG Corporate Communications Head LEE SU SHYAN Vice-President, Human Resources IRENE LEE

ADVERTISING SOLUTIONS Deputy Head CHRISTOPHER CHAN FASHION & BEAUTY IRENE TAN WATCHES & JEWELLERY RACHEL CHIN

MOTORING EDWARD NG BANKING, INVESTMENT, INSURANCE, TECH & TELCOS ELLEN LEE PROPERTY, MALLS & TRAVEL STELLA YEO CONSUMER ELECTRONICS, DEPARTMENT STORES, FMCG & SUPERMARKETS MARTIN BOEY GOVERNMENT, HEALTH & EDUCATION YVONNE WONG

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Harper’s BAZAAR Singapore is published by SPH Magazines, a division of Singapore Press Holdings Ltd, under license from Hearst Communications Inc., publisher of Harper’s BAZAAR in the United States of America. Harper’s BAZAAR is a trademark of Hearst Communications Inc. Harper’s BAZAAR is printed by Times Printers and distributed by Singapore Press Holdings Pte Ltd. Tel: 6319 6319. Harper’s BAZAAR shall not, without written consent of the publishers, be given, lent, resold, hired out or otherwise disposed of by way of trade, and it shall not be lent, hired out or otherwise disposed of in a mutilated condition or in any unauthorised cover by way of trade; or affixed to as part of any publication or advertising, literary or pictorial matter whatsoever. We welcome editorial submissions from contributors, but no responsibility is accepted for lost material. All prices are approximate and are quoted in Singapore dollars unless otherwise stated.

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GET THE LOOK Top, PINKO

Sunglasses, $520, Chloé

Bag, $1,900, Loewe

Earrings, Saint Laurent

by Anthony Vaccarello

Dress, Bottega Veneta

Phone pouch, Salvatore Ferragamo

Bottle holder with bottle, Fendi

Dress, Burberry

Belt, Hermès

Ring, $29,500, Cartier Skirt, $9,440, Loro Piana

DYNAMIC DUO Young and insanely talented, our cover couple are dedicated to their craft—and stylish to boot.

Maddie Ziegler, the American dancer who came into the spotlight on Dance Moms before sealing her fame in Sia’s music videos, has blossomed into a multi-hyphenate with 13.7 million followers on Instagram. Eddie Benjamin, the Australian singer/songwriter with high-profile collabs and a mentor in Justin Bieber, is well on his way up the Spotify charts. In their first fashion shoot together, the pair model fall/winter 2021 runway hits, capturing Bag the season’s youthful and eclectic vibe. Are they the charm, $160, new-gen superstars? You be the judge.

Furla

Vest, $2,335, Longchamp

Bag, $500, Coach

Boot, Balenciaga

42 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

Trousers, Brunello Cucinelli

Quercus Hand Cream, $75, Penhaligon’s

BY WINDY AULIA. PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW ARTHUR

Brooch, Chanel

B1- 80A, GALLERIA LEVEL, THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS LEVEL 2, TAKASHIMAYA DEPARTMENT STORE

| TEL: +65 6688 7238 | TEL: +65 6238 2311

STYLE EDITED BY LAUREN ALEXA

XOXO, GOSSIP GIRL

Prep your wardrobe with these new-school classics.

Photographed by Veronica Tay. Styled by Lauren Alexa

The

Oversize Hoodie Dress up this sporty basic with a smart blazer and flashy heels.

Hoodie, Balenciaga. Blazer; bag; CELINE by Hedi Slimane. Skirt, H&M. Tights; heels, Versace. Ring, Swarovski. Earrings, Saint Laurent

by Anthony Vaccarello

The

Kitschy Bag Start a conversation with quirky arm candy that shows your fun side.

Bag, Moschino. Sweater; shirt; skirt, Coach. Necklace; bracelets; ring, Swarovski. Boots, Balenciaga

The

Tweed Jacket A shorter crop and oversize hardwear instantly update this classic and add versatility.

Jacket, Moschino. Top; arm warmers; necklaces, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Skirt, Valentino. Necklace, Chanel. Bag, Balenciaga. Boots, Moncler.

Socks, stylist’s own

The

Sweater Vest Team a midriff-baring number with sporty bottoms for a street take on collegiate chic. A flirty bag adds a feminine twist.

Sweater vest, Tory Burch. Top (worn crossbody), Miu Miu. Trackpants, Balenciaga.

Necklace, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Bag; bracelet; bangle, Chanel

The

Cargo Pants Beautifully tailored and worn with a cropped, fitted jacket, this pair of trousers work from boardroom to bar.

Cargo pants; matching jacket; necklace; belly chain; belt bag; bracelet with ring, Chanel. Rings, Swarovski

The

Chequered Skirt A ladylike classic gets sexy when paired with easy slides and a printed top.

Skirt, Moschino. Top, Prada.

Necklace, Chanel. Bag, Jimmy Choo.

Bracelets, Swarovski. Slides, Coach.

Socks, stylist’s own Model: Lila Tan/Misc. Management Makeup and hair: Grego Oh using YSL Beauté and Keune Stylist’s assistant: Nadia Lim

STYLE 2 1

4

3

5

MIX MAGIC

6 7

Let your inner magpie run free with a plethora of prints topped with gold

8

11

10 13

9

Picks

Add a hint of vintage charm with a pair of Grecian-inspired earrings

1. Louis Vuitton fall/winter 2021 2. Dress, about $2,244, Adam Lippes at Net-a-Porter 3. Stick Blush in Peachy Keen, $48, Anastasia Beverly Hills 4. Cardigan, $770, Ulla Johnson 5. Ring, about $810, Tom Wood 6. Boot, about $922, Paris Texas 7. Leggings, $159, H&M Studio 8. Cuff, $1,450, Givenchy 9. Blazer, $5,440, Versace 10. Earrings, $521, Lanvin at Farfetch 11. Shirt, $615, Lisa Folawiyo at MatchesFashion.com 12. Bag, $7,650, Louis Vuitton 13. Skirt, about $1,139, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi at Net-a-Porter

50 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BY LAUREN ALEXA

12

2

3

1

4 5

15

NAUGHTY NINETIES

6

Take a leaf from the supermodels, and power up in poppy hues and luxe finishes

14

8

7

11 13

9 10

Picks

BY LAUREN ALEXA

12

Inject flirty flair into your look with a plume of feathers on barely there heels

1. Watch, $38,250, Chanel 2. Blazer, about $5,005, Katerina Kvit 3. Bag, $755, BY FAR 4. Earrings, about $595, Sterling King 5. Vest, PINKO 6. Abracadabra La Palette in Rose Pigalle, $216, Christian Louboutin Beauty 7. Saint Laurent fall/winter 2021 8. Dress, $1,455, Giuseppe Di Morabito at Farfetch 9. Necklace, about $574, Rosantica 10. Skirt, about $2,025, Dundas at Moda Operandi 11. Dress, about $1,240, Emilia Wickstead at MatchesFashion.com 12. Heeled sandal, $1,390, Bottega Veneta 13. Jacket, $2,700, Bottega Veneta 14. Ring, $680, Versace 15. Skirt, $931, Andrea Bogosian at Farfetch

51 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

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STYLE 4

Picks

Strut in style with statement-making thigh-high boots in animal print

1

6

2

3

SILVER SURFER

5

Bring on the glitz in icy hues with lotsa shimmer and shine

7 11 15

10 8 12

14

BY LAUREN ALEXA

13

9

1. Boot, $10,699, Alexandre Vauthier at Farfetch 2. Trousers, $695, Opening Ceremony 3. Hyaluronic Pressed Hydra-Powder, $82, BY TERRY 4. Top, $852, GOEN.J 5. Gucci fall/winter 2021 6. Dress, about $7,847, Paco Rabanne 7. Earrings, $900, Givenchy 8. Shirt, $3,490, Burberry 9. Sunglasses, $530, Balenciaga 10. Top, $3,900, Prada 11. Skirt, about $1,346, Rachel Gilbert 12. Ring, $650, Balenciaga 13. Bag, $1,450, Bottega Veneta 14. Watch, $74,500, Cartier 15. Blazer, $1,850, 3.1 Phillip Lim

53 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BE

PAR T OF THE BA ZA A R L IF ES T YLE

Harper’s BAZAAR covers the latest in fashion, beauty, design, travel, culture, society and the arts. Experience the magazine brought to life with invites to the hottest fashion shows, the chicest cocktail parties and more at our exclusive events.

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STYLE

Picks

4

2

5

A sleek pair of sunnies with a twilight tint seals the look perfectly

6

3 1

EVERYDAY GOTH

15

7

A grown-up Wednesday Addams would rock textured blacks contrasted with sorbet hues and chic sparkle

8 14

10

13 9

11

BY LAUREN ALEXA

12

1. For Her Pure Musc EDP, $207 for 100ml, Narciso Rodriguez 2. Dress, about $2,341, Alessandra Rich 3. Ring, about $11,715, Lynn Ban at MatchesFashion.com 4. Skirt, $875, Seen Users at Farfetch 5. Sunglasses, $365, Tom Ford at MatchesFashion.com 6. Blouse, $860, Stella McCartney 7. Black Cushion, $75, HERA 8. Dress, $1,245, Christopher Kane 9. Watch, $7,850, Chanel 10. Bag, $1,380, Amina Muaddi at Farfetch 11. Boot, about $1,410, Casadei 12. Dress, $1,580, AZ Factory 13. Earrings, about $2,071, Andrea Fohrman 14. Chanel fall/winter 2021 15. Choker, $425, AREA

55 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

WAIT LIST WILD AT HEART Alessandro Michele sets a new gold standard with the pièce de résistance of his Gucci Aria collection

BY JEFFREY YAN

Gucci is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year and Alessandro Michele is pulling out all the stops. His Gucci Aria collection—the designer has ditched traditional seasons in favour of grand operatic chapters—includes nods to both the brand’s equestrian beginnings and its 1990s sex-fuelled comeback under Tom Ford. Taking elements from both eras, Michele melds the bourgeois with the boudoir to electrifying results. In a bold, unprecedented move, he also hacks the codes of Balenciaga, a Kering stablemate—bringing together the two brands’ s i g n a t u re s i n w h a t i s surely the year’s buzziest collaboration. But there is also plenty of newness in the collection that is all Michele’s own; the maximalism and opulence that have defined his Gucci tenure is evident, refined with a new-found sense of precision and edge.

Instead of his usual disparate clashing and layering and piling on, Michele strips things down to single, maximum-impact statement pieces. Of these, the most swoon worthy are the crystal-encrusted, anatomically correct hearts to be clutched or cradled like precious treasure. ■ The embellished bag is $11,810 and is available at Gucci, #01-38/39 Paragon (tel: 3138 2024).

56 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

Elegance is an attitude

Chi Ling Lin

Longines DolceVita

Turn to fuss-free monochrome essentials for a minimalist spin on this maximalist colour

STYLE Earring, $307, MM6 Maison Margiela at Farfetch

Take a top-andbottom approach with sunnies and strappies in the arresting shade

Dress, about $599, Self-Portrait

Jacket, about $1,659, MANOKHI

Trust the bright colour and chunky heels to edge up a ladylike frock

Bag, $1,176, Amina Muaddi at Farfetch

GREEN LIGHT Inject a fresh pop of bright into your rotation with this vibrant shade. A full co-ord suit or statement dress makes for a big impact. Or if you’re less adventurous, take a subtler route with strappy heels or a structured bag in the highlighter hue.

Top, MSGM

Sneaker, Versace

ON THE STREETS Fall head over heels in love with hues

L SHAD L E A

Simone Rocha fall/winter 2021

Burbe rry fa ll

C

021 er 2 int /w

on n 02 er r2 Ives fall/winte

Chloé fall/ winter 2021

SLIDE INTO IT Schiaparelli fall/winter 2021

1

Kooky glasses graced the runways this season. Burberry showed a sleek corded frame, while Conner Ives went for oversize and worn by way of a scarf, and Schiaparelli debuted a pierced nose design that pushes things well into the surreal.

The ultimate combo of convenience and ease, slides have remained on the chic scene since they were popularised by Phoebe Philo at Celine all those years ago. Reworked for the fall season, these comfy basics now come with plush shearling trim and in knit fabrics, and are best worn with long socks for maximum cosiness.

58 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

AMBUSH fall/winter 2021

Pile on prints in the same colourway

Top, about $510, Jonathan Simkhai

Top, $922, Isa Boulder at Farfetch

Strike a balance with sleek accessories

Add contrast through cargo pants and combat boots

Sunglasses, $500, Off-White

Jacket, about $605, Danielle Guizio

FLOWER SHOW

HOLE IN ONE

Bright and punchy or dark and gothic, floral prints are a perennial favourite.

So put your personal spin on the look and team it with modern extras that balance the feminine vibes—be it a pair of sleek leather boots, a structured city bag or statement jewellery that grounds the look.

Dion Lee fall/winter 2021

Cutouts are having a moment in the spotlight.

Courrèges’s version offers more holes than fabric while Proenza Schouler went by way of an extended armhole—the designs range from outright outré to playful peekaboo.

Proenza Schouler fall/winter 2021

Jacket, about $1,061, AREA

Team polished tailoring with distressed pieces

Build your look with different textures

Courrèges fall/winter 2021

Jeans, $964, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro at Farfetch

BY LAUREN ALEXA. PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT

Skirt, about $1,196, Maison Margiela at Net-a-Porter

Finish the oversize and louche get-up with gold trinkets

CANADIAN TUX REDUX We’re falling hard for this true-blue classic again. Put this versatile basic to work by going over the top with details that will take your look over the edge—avant-garde proportions, playful cutouts and a surplus of hardware included.

WHITE OUT Bring on the drama with a floor-sweeping coat

Top, about $1,013, Alessandra Rich

You can never go wrong with an all-white ensemble. It exudes luxe and finesse, and helps you look put together with minimal effort. Whether you gravitate towards utilitarian basics or feminine flourishes, layer your pieces for added dimension.

59 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BAZAAR Showcase

TOU R DE FO R CE It’s pilgrim buckles, strass and Virgule heels galore as Gherardo Felloni doubles down on house signatures for Roger Vivier’s fall/winter 2021 collection.

Photographed by Cinqcentquarante.

Styled by Joel Traptow

Satin Vanity Strass Buckle Micro bag. Top; leggings, AZ Factory OPPOSITE: (Left) Suede I Love Vivier pumps. Jacket, Salvatore Ferragamo. Skirt, Balmain. (Right) Patent leather Viv’ In The City mules. Jacket, Longchamp. Skirt, Balmain. Leggings, stylist’s own All bags and shoes worn throughout the shoot are by Roger Vivier

BAZAAR Showcase

(Left) Leather Viv Choc bag; patent leather Preppy Viv’ Metal Buckle loafers. Jumpsuit, Simone Wild. (Right) Satin RV Nightlily Broche Vivier Buckle bag; patent leather Virgule Lacquered Buckle Slingback pump.

Jacket, Courrèges.

Skirt, Andrew Gn OPPOSITE: Leather Viv’ Rangers Strass Buckle sandals. Skirt, Acne Studios Concept and sittings editor: Jiawa Liu Models: Brigitte Golabkan/ Select Model; Xiaoyi Liu/ Metropolitan Models Makeup: Hicham Ababsa Hair: Damien Lacoussade Manicure: Marie Rosa Production: Beige Pill Productions Project director: Michelle Ngadino Production assistants: Apolline Baillet; Pierre Faurre

STYLE

An archival Balenciaga look

B

AC

K

Balenciaga

K ID

S

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Some of fashion’s most illustrious names stage a return to the runway with spectacular results.

By Jeffrey Yan

C E TH

M O

E

64 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Fashion, like much of the rest of the world, is entering a period of re-emergence. This season marks a splashy return for some of fashion’s biggest personalities and most bold-faced names after their hitting pause in some way or another. The reasons for their breaks vary—some were pandemic-related, like Marc Jacobs’s retreat from the runway; others were due to sudden deaths, like at the House of Alaïa. For a brand such as Balenciaga, its return to the couture calendar was a strategic move of timing and vision; while at Jean Paul Gaultier, it was about exploring new frontiers through a new collaboration model.

An exploration of silhouette

by Cristóbal Balenciaga

BALENCIAGA

Balenciaga

It was 53 years ago that Cristóbal Balenciaga closed the doors to his haute couture salon for good. The couturier that Christian Dior called “the master of us all” was more a sculptor whose medium was fabric, innovating new textiles and shapes that are used even to this day. In fact, so much of what we think of when it comes to mid-century couture can be traced back to Balenciaga. His house laid dormant until it was snapped up by the conglomerate known today as Kering and Nicolas Ghesquière brought it back into mainstream consciousness with a commercially successful 15-year run. For the past six years, it has been under the stewardship of Demna Gvasalia, who turned it into a billion-dollar brand by elevating sneakers, hoodies and even Crocs into wait list-worthy status symbols.

But until now, no one has ever attempted to resuscitate the couture business— understandably so, as it remains one of fashion’s weightiest heritage. That all changed this past July, when Gvasalia presented the first Balenciaga haute couture collection since 1968. The designer framed that decision as nothing less than a calling. “It is my creative duty to the unique heritage of Mr Balenciaga to bring the couture back... it is the very foundation of this [102-year-old] maison,” said Gvasalia.

Some might wonder about the rationale behind relaunching haute couture in today’s fashion landscape, where instant gratification and economy of scale often take precedence over handmade, one-of-a-kind creations, but Gvasalia sees it as more crucial than ever. “Couture is the highest

A Cristóbal Balenciaga look referenced by Demna Gvasalia

level of garment construction that is not only relevant in today’s [massproduction] industry, but even absolutely necessary for the survival and evolution of modern fashion,” he said.

Where Gvasalia’s pandemic-era presentations for the House have utilised the digital format to the fullest—recent outings include a virtual reality game, a sleek music video and a deepfake manipulation—for his haute couture debut, he waited until physical shows could return. To set the scene, he reconstructed Balenciaga’s whitewashed, stuccoed salon at Avenue George V with surreal exactitude—the carpets stained, the furniture scratched and the colours faded just so, as though the place has remained as is, having aged through the decades since Cristóbal shut up shop. Gvasalia even called the collection “Balenciaga 50th Couture”, signalling his intent to pick up where the master left off, and soundtracked the show to absolute silence, the way Cristóbal used to do it—the only sounds being the footsteps of the models, the rustle of fabric, and the jangling of jewellery and embellishment.

The collection itself is filled with Cristóbal-isms: cocooning coats; sweeping lines; Watteau backs; hourglass shapes; and collars constructed away from the body to elongate the neck. But it is no mere homage or blind reproduction. Gvasalia made it his and he made it modern. The key is an energy that seem harnessed from the streets—the one he captured so well and to such acclaim when he founded VETEMENTS. The result is couture that is decidedly not for society swans in their gilded penthouses and palazzos—or to be more accurate, not just for them. Sure, there are ball gowns and opera coats, but these have the ease and dynamism of streetwear, which Gvasalia referenced through an anorak collar here, a couple of cargo pockets there. There is also denim, woven on vintage looms in Japan and finished with silver buttons, as well as trench coats, t-shirts and dressing gowns cut from the most luxurious materials. In short, it is a complete wardrobe proposition—every item the ultimate version of what it could be. It harks back to Cristóbal at the height of his influence, when clients such as Mona von Bismarck would order pieces by the dozens, down to her gardening clothes. In a radical move, Gvasalia also decided that his couture should be genderless, and thus showed many of the same looks on both male and female models. He opened the show with a series of laser-sharp suiting (all black, like how Cristóbal used to dress) on models of all genders with matching stoles trailing behind them. The finale was a group of billowing, floor-sweeping coat-gown hybrids that looked utterly alluring regardless of the gender of the model in them. Gvasalia put it best when he said, “Couture is above trends, fashion and industrial dressmaking. It is a timeless and pure expression of craft and the architecture of silhouette that gives a wearer the strongest notion of elegance and sophistication.”

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STYLE

MARC JACOBS

Alaïa

ALAÏA

Alaïa

All the fashion capitals have been hard hit by the pandemic, but perhaps none more so than New York, which found itself without a tent pole draw in the past year and a half.

That honour had always gone to Marc Jacobs, the premier showman of American fashion whose show traditionally closed New York Fashion Week with a bang. Even after 2017, when Jacobs stripped back on his previously lavish sets, his clothes more than delivered when it came to spectacle and fantasy. But the last of these spectacles was in February 2020; as the pandemic raged on, he made the novel decision to hit pause on his runway collections. Since then, Jacobs has kept busy with the launch of Heaven, a secondary line of streetwear, in addition to The Marc Jacobs, his brand’s contemporary range.

As vaccinations began to roll out in the US, Jacobs staged a return to the runway. “While the world continues to change with unimaginable speed, my love for fashion, and the desire to create and share collections through this delivery system, endures,” said Jacobs of his runway comeback. Held in June, it was outside the fashion week calendar, but it demonstrated clearly why his presence has been missed. “Our decision to pause allowed us to slow down and to reflect, ruminate, re-evaluate and take

Marc Jacobs

66 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Alaïa

Alaïa

Alaïa

Marc Jacobs

Alaïa

Alaïa

After the passing of Azzedine Alaïa four years ago, the Richemontowned House took its time naming a new creative director, choosing instead to reissue archival pieces and develop unreleased patterns the late designer left behind. It made sense, as they were big shoes to fill and Alaïa himself famously never rushed his work—he thumbed his nose at the rules and timelines of the fashion system, and showed only when his collections were ready to his exacting standards. At a time when designersas-creative-directors have become the rule, Alaïa was an exception—he was a designer’s designer who cut his own patterns and crafted his own samples. His design language is instantly recognisable, known the world over even if you did not know his name (Alaïa doesn’t advertise)—we have him to thank for the undying popularity of body-con dresses and fit-and-flare shapes. His work celebrated the female form through a masterful sculpting of fabric—his manipulations of knit and leather were unsurpassed—that put sensuality front and centre while never veering into vulgarity.

As befits the House, the designer who has been chosen to carry the torch at Alaïa is not some big, buzzy name. Pieter Mulier cut his teeth as the right-hand man of Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Dior and Calvin Klein; his Alaïa role marks his first go-around at the helm of a brand. He presented his debut collection during the most recent Haute Couture Fashion Week in July and in a nonconformist move that would have made the late designer proud, Mulier mixed in ready-to-wear with couture creations. As an opening statement, the intent is clear: Mulier’s approach to the House he inherited would be respectful instead of disruptive, as is common practice nowadays in the game of designer musical chairs. He even held the show outside, on the street where Alaïa used to live and work.

The collection itself reiterates the most definitive of Alaïa codes—the second-skin dresses, the fit-and-flares, the corset belts, the kicky little skirts, the cowl hoods, and the metal hardware on soft fabrics all made an appearance. What Mulier brought is a sense of cool—his eye for it honed for all those years working with Simons. There is a sporty ease to how his pieces sit on the body and the way they move, but these are definitely not sportswear. Though Mulier borrowed certain elements of athleticism such as bike shorts and bodysuits, the overall effect always reads glamorous and sensual. Even something as basic as a white poplin shirt is transformed from a workday essential into a bombshellworthy showstopper. Other standouts include a red python bandeau dress, a cocoon of mint fur, and net dresses embellished with little silver globules. With his first collection, Mulier proves that he does not have to tear down the House. When the foundations are this great, one just has to build on it.

It is not for nothing that Jean Paul Gaultier is often called the OG enfant terrible of fashion—he is never one to play by the arbitrary rules set by the fashion establishment. Long before inclusivity and gender fluidity became buzzwords, the designer was already centring subcultures, uplifting marginalised communities and upending gender conventions on his rambunctious runways. He announced his retirement in 2020, but left the door open for his couture label to live on through seasonal collaborations with designers of his choosing. The first of these arrived in July via a tie-up with Chitose Abe of Sacai.

While the partnership might have seemed to come out of left field, a closer look at the oeuvre of both designers reveals a match made in fashion heaven.

Abe is one of the pioneers of collaged and hybrid designs, often mashing up cultures and different codes of dress—in her hands, a banker’s jacket segues into a military bomber, while a shirt dress can easily be spliced with a trench coat. Gaultier and Abe also share a fascination with toying with conventions, particularly those on the masculine-feminine spectrum; both enjoy a good subversion of uniforms and archetypes. One can just imagine Abe having a field day trawling through the vast Gaultier archives. “I knew from the beginning that I wanted to refer to Jean Paul’s archives. I already knew in my mind which looks even before I actually saw the archival pieces,” she told Kerry Pieri of Harper’s BAZAAR US. She tackled what is arguably Gaultier’s most iconic signature right out of the gate: The conical bra, which she melded onto a pinstripe bustier for the first look out. It appeared again on the last look, a cobalt blue boilersuit.

In between, she took on other Gaultier signatures such as the pinstripe suit, the trench coat, military uniforms, Breton sweaters and tartan kits. “One thing that Jean Paul said was that ‘designing needs to be free’, so he really gave me total freedom to design this collection,” said Abe. What she did with that freedom was to deconstruct those codes and then put them back together in a very graphic, immediate, Sacai way.

The possibilities afforded by an haute couture atelier allowed Abe to go wild. “For a ready-to-wear brand, Sacai is also made with some complexity and we also only produce what has been ordered, so in some ways, working on couture did not feel all that unfamiliar.

However, there were techniques and detailing such as hand embroidery and the usage of certain embellishments that one cannot achieve for ready-towear,” said Abe. The designer made full use of those techniques. There is a Balenciaga-esque bubble suit moulded out of MA-1 bombers; Aran knits and blue denim become blank canvases for fantastical displays of craftsmanship; and Gaultier’s signature blue-and-white sweaters gradate into ethereal wisps of organza or punkish raw-edged tartan.

It was a gamble for Gaultier to hand over the keys to his Maison, along with so much creative freedom, but it paid off—the results are greater than the sum of its already great parts. ■

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Jean Paul Gaultier

Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT; COURTESY OF BALENCIAGA, ALAÏA, MARC JACOBS, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Marc Jacobs

a thorough inventory of what works, what doesn’t work, what we love, what we’re willing to let go of, and what has value, importance and meaning,” he continues. The resulting collection reads like a love letter to fashion, winding through various points in fashion history to arrive at a destination that is very, very Marc Jacobs.

It is as close to couture as Jacobs ever got, with the designer freely borrowing the cocooning, enveloping shapes of haute couture’s mid-century heyday and throwing in a liberal amount of Space Age references, and then filtering the whole thing through the lens of American sportswear, contemporary streetwear and Gen-Z irreverence. Jacobs also doubled down on layering. The collection features a panoply of hoods, snoods, beanies and masks—and those were just on the heads on the runway. Further into the show, there were cocoon coats, trailing faux-fur stoles, voluminous puffers, and dresses worn over knits, trousers, bodysuits and gloves. To drive the layering story home (and in a clever merchandising flex), Jacobs had his models walk out a second time—now unencumbered of all the swaddling layers to reveal the foundational garments underneath. It was a neat styling trick, but more importantly, it showed that Jacobs could excel at both statements and staples—proving along the way why he is the undisputed king of American fashion.

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STYLE

C

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Clockwise from far left: Thebe Magugu fall/winter 2021. Gucci fall/winter 2021. Versace fall/winter 2021. Salvatore Ferragamo fall/winter 2021.

A. Potts fall/winter 2021. Loewe fall/winter 2021. Moschino fall/winter 2021. Christopher John Rogers fall/winter 2021.

Stella McCartney fall/winter 2021. Carolina Herrera fall/winter 2021

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BY ALISON S. COHN. PHOTOGRAPHY: GREGORY WIKSTROM FOR A. POTTS; CÉSAR BUITRAGO FOR CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS; ROE ETHRIDGE FOR CAROLINA HERRERA

L

ike a scene straight out of the 1957 musical comedy Funny Face, in which a Diana Vreelandish fashion editor exhorts women to “think pink!” as an antidote to everything down, dreary, dull, depressing, dismal and deadly, the fall 2021 digital runways were awash in rosy colour. Take your Pepto-Bismol in the form of a pink power suit from Thebe Magugu, a puff-sleeve dress in a bubblegum shade from Carolina Herrera or a cerise marabou-trimmed jacket from Gucci.

“Colour is life, joy, fun!” says Donatella Versace, who sent out a trio of A-line minis paired with tone-ontone monogrammed tights in fuchsia, lemon and coral.

“I wanted the three looks to go out together to make a statement. We’re looking at the future with a new sense of positivity. As we slowly get our lives back, the world should celebrate.”

Can we indeed dress ourselves happy as we start to emerge from our pandemic chrysalis? A paper published last year in the journal Psychological Science, co-authored by a team of researchers at 36 academic institutions, revealed certain universal colour-emotion associations.

In the study, 4,598 participants from 30 countries on six continents speaking 22 languages were asked to pair 20 emotions (such as joy, pleasure, relief, regret, sadness and anger) with 12 colours. The researchers then calculated the average probability of each colour-emotion association and identified the most prominent among the 240 possible pairings, which included joy with, yes, pink, as well as the other colours highlighted in the Versace collection, yellow and orange.

The study did not test whether participants actually felt more joyful when they wore the colours they associated with joy. But in a 2015 study, published in the Quarterly Journal of Experimental Psychology, researchers in Switzerland asked students at the École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne to watch video clips of actors portraying “panic fear” and “elated joy” and to choose the colour of shirt most appropriate for the emotion. They found that participants selected brighter, more saturated and warmer colours for joyful expressions than for fearful ones. Colours along the red-yellow spectrum were deemed more appropriate for joy and cyan-bluish hues for fear. The conclusion was that clothing colour may be used to convey emotional intentions—that we might choose brighter colours “when aiming to convey positive affect”.

Loewe stylist Benjamin Bruno apparently got the memo. Last winter, as Covid-19 cases in Europe surged, he started turning up at the studio wearing cheery, colourful t-shirts to boost his own mood. That inspired the label’s creative director, Jonathan Anderson, to

begin thinking about designing pieces that might offer people a similar kind of much-needed emotional uplift, like the buttercup yellow nappa leather coat and the oversize tangerine suit with contrasting stripes in the fall collection. Anderson also made a range of optimistically hued accessories, including booties with sunray details and a supersize pouch bag that looks ready to play the role of an emotional support animal. “This collection is a big departure for me. We’ve never done something this colourful before,” he explains. “I was thinking of this idea of ‘colour therapy’ in a literal sense: I wanted to delve into a really out-there colour palette and make it feel sensual, even salacious.”

Stella McCartney also took a trip over the rainbow with a collection that leveraged her expertise in sustainable materials such as forest-friendly viscose and PVC-free paillettes to create ruched bandage dresses, sequinned going-out tops and other glad rags. “It’s all about escapism and being able to blend fantasy and reality,” McCartney says. “These are conscious pieces that reflect a collective desire for joy, opulence and glamour. There’s so much more colour injected into this season with the sunshine yellow and rich purple that I hope will inspire everyone to dress up and go out to the clubs again.”

Other collections evoked the glamour of Old Hollywood. “I wanted to create a technicolour fantasy in deep hues and saturated colours—something dynamic and cinematic,” says Moschino Creative Director Jeremy Scott, who made a mini movie titled Jungle Red after the It colour in George Cukor’s 1939 comedy-drama The Women. In Scott’s reboot of the film’s fashion show sequence (the only scene Cukor shot in colour), which features eveningwear with vivid brushstrokes and a satin mini dress embellished with a feathery pink flamingo, flame-haired model Karen Elson is a vision in head-to-toe marigold, complete with a wide-brimmed sun hat. She appears alongside an all-star cast that includes Hailey Bieber, Precious Lee and Shalom Harlow.

Meanwhile, A. Potts designer Aaron Potts channelled happy childhood memories of a very Singin’ in the Rain raincoat. “When I started doing the collection, the yellow was really going to just be a highlight,” says Potts of its standout hue, a colour he calls sunburst, seen on fluid shapes modelled by Alvin Ailey dancers. “And then I said to myself, ‘Okay, Aaron, you can choose to stay in this dark space or you can will yourself into some joy and some lightness and some happiness and some optimism.’” If we hope to spark joy this fall, then we may indeed want to, as Funny Face’s fashion editor puts it, “banish the black, burn the blue and bury the beige”. ■

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BAZAAR Showcase

SUPER FLY Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello’s winter 2021 collection pays homage to the founder’s penchant for graphic colour clashes, all mixed in with French insouciance.

Photographed by Wee Khim.

Styled by Sharon Tulasidas

Jacket; top; jeans; earrings; necklace; belt OPPOSITE: Blouse; detachable cuffs; culottes; necklace; belt; boots

BAZAAR Showcase

Jacket; bodysuit; skirt; earring; necklaces; bag; stockings; slingbacks OPPOSITE: Jacket; hot shorts; earrings; necklaces Model: Ke Qing/Mannequin Makeup and hair: Marc Teng using YSL Beauté and KEVIN.MURPHY Photographer’s assistant: Ivan Teo

THE

FA LL / W I NTE R 2 021 FASHION TAKES FLIGHT AS A NEW WORLD EMERGES. THE SEASON IS A TESTAMENT TO THE POWER OF BEAUTY, BE IT IN THE FORM OF FANTASTICAL FANTASIES OR INSPIRED SARTORIAL SOLUTIONS.

BY JEFFREY YAN AND JIAWA LIU 74 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

CHANEL The long-standing tradition of extravagant Chanel shows held at the Grand Palais was interrupted for fall/winter 2021, with Virginie Viard exchanging grandeur for intimacy at the iconic nightclub Chez Castel, on Saint Germain des Pres. In line with other collections this season that served up suggestions for post-pandemic nightlife, Viard conjured the golden age of nocturnal Parisian glamour. The collection was a feast of sumptuous layers that peel away, taking the models from ski slopes to the lounge. Slouchy oversize tweed coats were caped over ruched mini dresses and playful bodysuits were overlaid with silky chiffon; midriff-baring bandeau tops peeked from beneath long, slinky coats; and quilted jumpsuits printed in the Chanel logo were worn over sheer knits, topped off with comfy beanies. Relaxed and softly tailored pieces—such as a pair of cargo pants in tweed; slouchy denims decked out in silver double Cs and worn with furry moon boots; and whimsical faux fur suits—were all about the elevation of comfort chic.

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THE COLLECTIONS

SAINT LAURENT For fall/winter 2021, Anthony Vaccarello managed to one-up the epicness of last season’s presentation.

First, the breathtaking locations. While last season’s showing was filmed against a seemingly endless desert, this season, there are rocky cliffs, plunging waterfalls, black sand beaches

and giant ice floes. That sense of drama extends to the clothes, the harsh and wintery backdrop throwing into sharp relief the colour and glamour of the collection. While last season was about ease and a certain restraint, this season, the Saint Laurent woman is back in statement-making pieces perfect for peacocking.

These are clothes meant to be seen and then, perhaps, taken off. Sex was clearly on Vaccarello’s mind—the collection veers towards short, tight and shiny, with plenty of legs, midriff and décolletage on show. There is a ’60s spirit here in the way Vaccarello cut his shapes—lean, sharp, compact—mixed with an undercurrent of the ’80s in the collection’s body-consciousness, the maximalist jewellery, and the bold, almost brash, colour palette of jewel tones and acidic brights.

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LOEWE “The Loewe show has been cancelled”, stated the newspaper that came with the invite to Jonathan Anderson’s latest presentation. In addition to the mock broadsheet, the kit included a “time capsule” and a special paper knife to cut open an excerpt from Danielle Steel’s then new book, The Affair. The collection itself was inspired by the idea of colour therapy to uplift us from lockdown fatigue, resulting in coats, patchwork suits and playful knits with faux naïf patterns that come in bold greens, yellows, oranges and blues. Anderson also expanded on the volume play of his spring/ summer 2021 collection with multicoloured balloon sleeves on padded jackets, giant tassels swinging joyfully from the hems of jackets and trousers, and exaggerated masculine silhouettes inspired by riding jackets from the 1920s. Apart from colour and silhouette, Anderson played up textures, working with Maison Lesage to incorporate intricate, couture-level beading into many of the looks.

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THE COLLECTIONS

DIOR Maria Grazia Chiuri has, for the past two Haute Couture collections, indulged in fantastical storytelling through film. For fall/winter 2021, this tradition crossed over into ready-to-wear.

As the film begins, we are transported to the Palace of Versailles on a misty night, where the protagonist ventures into a castle filled with characters from the fairy tales of our childhoods.

But displaced from their worlds to appear together in a single space and time, these characters are darker and mysterious—living up to the film’s title, Disturbing Beauty. Models in red hooded looks—whether in matching floral suits or prim tartan peacoats and A-line skirts—were a cross between Little Red Riding Hood and Grandma. Laser-cut leather pinafores, worn with puffsleeved shirts and lace-up booties, conjure up Alice in Wonderland, but with a punk edge.

The blood-red tulle dress with a heart-shaped bodice calls forth the Queen of Hearts, while an archival rose motif based on a drawing by Andrée Brossin de Méré, a collaborator of Monsieur Dior, evokes Beauty and the Beast—one of Chiuri’s favourite works.

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LONGCHAMP This season, Sophie Delafontaine looked to the brand’s racehorse logo for inspiration.

It informed both the collection’s equestrian theme and the location at which it was shown— the famed Battesti riding hall in Paris. The clothes, cut for ease of movement, have a sporty energy but are not sportswear—Delafontaine, after all, never strays too far from the Parisienne style that is at the heart of the brand. Riding jackets were paired with ultra-short shorts or slim trousers. Graceful midi dresses and roomy tailoring further upped the French chic factor, while riding boots grounded the whole affair. Delafontaine was also inspired by Pierre Paulin, the star of mid-century interior and furniture design. His iconic curved sofas and chairs informed the soft, sensual lines of the collection, while many of the looks are quilted, layered and padded to evoke the plush, tactile quality of his work.

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THE COLLECTIONS

GUCCI With heavy references to The Savoy Club, these are clothes for all of tomorrow’s parties. Each look was calculated for maximum wow factor, with silhouette, saturation and shine turned way up. Statement gowns and dresses were worn with chubbies and chock-full of jewels. The tailoring was lean, mean and rock star worthy—some trimmed with feathers and others, fully sequinned. Alessandro Michele also paid homage to Tom Ford’s legacy and amped up the sex appeal—there were chains, whips and harnesses (the cleverest of which incorporated the Gucci Horsebit); lingerie as outerwear; nipples bared; piercings galore; and sheer layers revealing nothing but skin underneath. The most internetbreaking news is, of course, the collaboration with fellow Kering stablemate Balenciaga.

Among the electrifying results: The laser-precision suiting and silhouettes of Balenciaga covered in the logos of both brands or printed all over with Gucci Flora; Gucci Jackie bags stamped with Balenciaga logos; and Balenciaga Hourglass bags emblazoned with the Gucci monogram.

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THE COLLECTIONS

HERMÈS For fall/winter 2021, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski utilised live-streaming technology to stage a show that spanned three cities. It started in New York with a dance performance choreographed by Madeline Hollander before moving to the actual fashion show in Paris and then closing with another dance performance, this one choreographed by Gu Jiani, in front of a live audience in Shanghai. The dynamic performances reflected the collection’s confidence and ease with clothes that are occasion-neutral and trans-seasonal—short, sporty jackets in Twillaine or fringed leather paired with buttery leather trousers; easy dresses rendered in a range of neutral and lush shades. The collection, named “Triptych”, is a study in intrinsic luxury that empowers the wearer with confidence. This comes through most clearly via the rich fabrics and understated details, where seemingly straightforward jackets and trousers are subtly decorated with fine nappa leather details, and dresses reveal themselves on closer inspection to be finely beaded for a 3D effect.

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DOLCE&GABBANA The 1990s has shaped up as Gen Z’s preferred decade when it comes to style references and for fall/winter 2021, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana gave the era’s most recognisable tropes an e-girl remix. The collection reads like a greatest hits of the late ’90s—there are crystal bustiers, barely there dresses, metallic disco pants, boudoir lace bralets, oversize puffer jackets, and bodysuits spray-painted in fluorescent graffiti. Models sported cyber-punk rainbow-coloured highlights in their hair as well as lips painted black or blue. A collaboration with the Istituto Italiano di Tecnologia saw robots take on a starring role in both the teaser video and the show. Colours and prints were inspired by circuit boards, programming lines and computer screen glitches, while some models were geared up like Robocops in oversize shoulders, holographic dresses and ultra-chunky sneakers.

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THE COLLECTIONS

LOUIS VUITTON While some brands took us on imaginary trips to faraway destinations this season, Louis Vuitton transported us into the past—all the way back to the Age of Enlightenment. But in true Nicolas Ghesquière fashion, past, present, future and everything in between collided in spectacular manner. It’s an aesthetic shared by Italian design studio Fornasetti, with whom Ghesquière has collaborated this season. Prints selected from the vast Fornasetti archive are rendered here on oversize fleece jackets and intarsia knits, and as tessellated patterns on tabard dresses complete with armour-like strips that made the models look like futuristic versions of ancient Roman warriors. Other vestiges of antiquity are also reimagined, such as gladiator boots with unexpected bow ties, and fine beading that echoes Greco-Roman patterns but deliberately left unfinished, as though they were archaeological finds.

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THE COLLECTIONS

MIU MIU For her latest Miu Miu collection, Miuccia Prada explored the duality of the intimate indoors and the rugged outdoors, and collapsed the boundaries between the two. Models wandered the snow-covered peaks of the Dolomite Alps in clothes that clash the contradictions of boudoir and adventure dressing—think lace camisoles worn under faux fur-lined ski suits, and silk slip dresses layered over knits or worn alone with knitted arm warmers and faux fur mittens. The dresses themselves sport contrasts aplenty—their delicate straps made weapon-like with metal spikes. Lingerie and pyjamas were hybridised with sportswear, resulting in bodysuits and bras made of quilted nylon that were layered on top of everything, and ski suits that took their colour cues from pin-up underwear.

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BALENCIAGA To present his latest collection, Demna Gvasalia photographed it in a studio and then superimposed the images onto postcard destinations that span the world. The collection itself is a trip into and around Gvasalia’s catalogue of Balenciaga hits, reiterating what the designer does best: The elevation and subversion of streetwear staples and wardrobe classics. There were hoodies and robes paired with matching evening stoles; house dresses in familiar but exaggerated proportions; and elegant shapes crafted out of the humble and the utilitarian. This last category includes delightful propositions such as tracksuits crossed with dressing gowns to form full-length dresses, camel trench coats given magnificent Victorian sleeves, and a stonewashed denim jacket turned into a sweeping duster coat. The biggest development here was Gvasalia doubling down on his commitment to the environment—more than 90 percent of the materials used are sustainable.

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THE COLLECTIONS

CELINE Hedi Slimane’s latest collection, Parade, is a continuation of the Monaco story he told last season. There is the same nonchalance, the same consideration for a full wardrobe, but this time around, that formula has been refined— there is also a polish and a sense of glamour that Slimane fans will find familiar. It demonstrates that the designer has not abandoned the codes he established in those haute bourgeois collections a few seasons ago—the tweeds, the capes, the pussybow blouses, the phenomenal tailoring. He just remixed them in ways that speak to how cool, young women actually dress today—a hoodie here, a cropped top there; sweats here, a smattering of sequins there; blue denim here, bullion trim there. All throughout, there is an alluring tension between the elevated and the everyday.

Silvery, sinuous dresses were worn with grungy cardigans at the show; full ball skirts with bombers jackets and baseball hats. Chic little shoulder bags and cool flat boots completed Slimane’s take on the new French girl look.

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Beauty and brutality have always been two sides of the same coin in the work of Alexander McQueen and his successor Sarah Burton. This season, Burton took water as her starting point—specifically, the way it can be both calming and healing, and mysterious and turbulent. This collection’s silhouettes—ranging from the flowing and the fluid to shapes that crest into giant waves and ruffles— reflect this duality. The prints, too, have a watery, abstracted quality to them. These are derived from anemones—beautiful but fleeting and fragile flowers turned here into powerful, larger-than-life motifs.

The fluidity of water is also mirrored in Burton’s references, flowing from couture on one end to London’s punk energy on the other—resulting in full sleeves and fuller skirts worn with t-shirts and biker jackets at the show; Savile Row tailoring hybridised with MA-1 bomber jackets; denim bustiers melded onto mid-century New Look shapes; and white tees dripping with couture embellishment.

89 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

THE COLLECTIONS

PRADA With each joint Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons collection under the Prada umbrella, the duo’s vision comes clearer into focus, the synergy sharper. Now into their second women’s ready-to-wear collection, it is clear that Prada’s subversive take on glamour is an alluring foil to Simons’s cool, sharp rigour. The long johns from their first men’s show make a reappearance—again, it is a foundational garment atop which Prada and Simons layer their ideas of the season. Their big idea for fall/winter 2021 is tactility—represented in the plush coats, fuzzy knits, shaggy faux fur and glittering sequins that wrapped, swaddled and cocooned the models.

The other big idea is the reconciliation of opposites—as Prada a concept as they come. Mrs Prada brought together the things she dislikes (pinstripes) and the things she does (ugly-chic wallpaper patterns); she and Simons also married the utilitarian with the luxurious, and the practical with the decorative— see the nylon and faux fur combinations, and the Art Deco and Art Nouveau tinges on sportswear-inspired garb.

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THE COLLECTIONS

BURBERRY Pandemic restrictions seemed to have sharpened Riccardo Tisci’s focus, with the designer trading in his earlier sprawling coed shows for a tighter, more compelling edit.

Fall/winter 2021 marks his first solo womenswear outing at Burberry and it’s one in which Tisci pays tribute to femininity—to both the strength and the softness of womanhood. Instead of his old approach of trying to be something for everyone, this collection zeros in on what Tisci does best: Italian sensuality and glamour blended with an English eccentricity and offhandedness.

The results feel more personal and less beholden to Burberry’s tradition and heritage. The series of trench coats that opened the show, cut up and reconstructed, are a convincing example of Tisci reconciling brand and designer DNAs. Elsewhere, there was breezy scarf dressing that nod at freedom and flags. The classics that make up such a huge part of the Burberry heritage, such as tailoring and outerwear, have been transformed by Tisci—blown-up and cut away, studded and shredded, or pieced and panelled.

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FENDI With his Fendi debut during January’s haute couture season, Kim Jones proved that he was not here to disrupt Karl Lagerfeld’s 54-year legacy (and the ones of the Fendi matriarchs before him).

In his first ready-to-wear outing, Jones chose to translate the house codes in the form of an intimate communication with the Fendi woman as he sees her. The narrative started with the five Fendi sisters and Silvia Venturini Fendi, whose daily uniforms inspired the collection.

There are workwear archetypes of tailored separates, jumpsuits and classic coats, and easy day-to-night dresses—always exhibiting that feast of textures that typifies the House’s experimentation with fur and leather.

Jones also conveyed the idea that luxury is more for the wearer to feel than for the world to perceive.

Straightforward silhouettes and muted colours let luxurious fabrics and masterful tailoring speak for themselves. Even logo mania is done as an act of subterfuge. The “Karligraphy” monogram is deployed in jewellery and hardware, and embroidered on dresses and tights that peeked out under coats at the show, so that while all-pervasive in the collection, they revealed themselves only upon closer inspection.

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FABULOUS

20s

30s

Inject some joie de vivre by mixing solid blocks of bold colour Set hearts ablaze in fiery sunset tones and sexy knits.

Show a brave front in primary colours accented with graphic drama and posh extras.

Earrings, about $169, Alison Lou

Coat, about $1,489, Dorothee Schumacher at Moda Operandi Bag, $4,250, Saint Laurent

by Anthony Vaccarello

Sweater dress, Marni

Sweater, about $768, Y’s

Top, about $460, Christopher Esber

Sunglasses, about $650, Fenty at Good See Co.

Skirt, about $295, Acler

Key ring, $605, Louis Vuitton

Cuff, $24,000, Chanel

Necklace, Jil Sander Heeled sandal, Gianvito Rossi

Watch, $5,200, Chanel

Watch, Chaumet

Boot, $423, Paloma Barceló at Farfetch

Bag, $3,750, Bottega Veneta

Skirt, $1,450, Burberry

Trousers, about $945, Paco Rabanne

Skirt, about $1,172, Y/Project

AirPods case, $350, Balenciaga

Sock, $170, Balenciaga

Sunglasses, $665, Tom Ford at Farfetch

Trousers, $2,707, Katerina Kvit at Farfetch

Acne Studios fall/winter 2021

Scarf, $375, Alexander McQueen

Sweater, about $596, The Attico Card holder, about $151, Acne Studios Loewe fall/ winter 2021

WARM EMBRACE Add some buzz with pops of complementary colours such as chartreuse.

BELLS & WHISTLES Take colour play up a notch with dramatic fringe, plissé or ruffles.

94 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

EVERY AGE

at

40s

Exude zesty energy in fresh, unexpected colour pairings.

Be covered but never staid in layers of sweet lilac and burnt orange.

Sunglasses, $1,150, Louis Vuitton

Heeled sandal, $1,096, KHAITE Top, $955, Eudon Choi at Farfetch

Sunglasses, $264, Eyepetizer at Farfetch

Earrings, $527, Lanvin at Farfetch

Trousers, $1,224, Safiyaa

50s

Top, $1,490, Burberry Trousers, $2,150, Louis Vuitton

Watch, Harry Winston

Skirt, Patou

Watch, Chaumet

Cap, $281, Fabiana Filippi at Farfetch

Clutch, $1,665, KHAITE

Blazer, $1,592, Giuseppe Di Morabito at Heeled sandal, Farfetch $1,390, Fendi

Bracelet, $6,550, Van Cleef & Arpels

Cardigan, about $782, Forte Forte Bag, $2,100, Bottega Veneta

Wallet, $835, Palm Angels

Coat, $6,100, Prada

Gloves, $135, TWINSET at Farfetch

Belt, about $211, Forte Forte

Ring, about $180, Monica Vinader

Skirt, $1,100, M Missoni at Farfetch

Cardigan, $1,270, Bottega Veneta

Prada fall/ winter 2021

Patou fall/ winter 2021

Vest, $1,014, Patou at Farfetch

Top, about $834, 16Arlington at Net-a-Porter

Bag, $3,100, Alexander McQueen

Trousers, about $748, Forte Forte

BY LAUREN ALEXA

Earrings, about $135, Petite Grand

SUMPTUOUS MODE Keep things sleek with tailored pieces topped with modern accessories.

TRULY YOURS Put your personal spin on the look with whimsical details that make all the difference.

95 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

FABULOUS AT EVERY AGE

HOW T O LO OK

SMOKIN’ in MINI DRESSES Work those gams as hemlines are raised to daring heights

SEXY CHIC

Dress, about $872, Nanushka

FLORAL DRAMA

Fendi fall/ winter 2021

GRAPHIC FLAIR

Dress, $904, Louisa Ballou at Farfetch

Chanel fall/ winter 2021

Giambattista Valli fall/ winter 2021

MOLTEN MAGIC

POLISHED COMFORT

David Koma fall/ winter 2021

Dress, about $656, Self-Portrait

Dress, about $14,374, Oscar de la Renta at Net-a-Porter

Dolce& Gabbana fall/ winter 2021

Dress, about $1,148, AREA

Thank Ally McBeal for making barely modest hemlines a norm at the workplace in the noughties. Mini dresses are no longer reserved for partying the night away and this season offers up plenty of heart-racing designs. Keep things sleek and classy like at Fendi, where ruching and off-shoulder detailing add to the allure. Or look to Chanel and get snuggly in a knitted mod number that spells sophistication on legs. Up for bolder takes?

Do like Giambattista Valli, and blur the line between risqué

and romance with soft, sheer florals layered over a bralet and briefs. Or take a page from Dolce&Gabbana and opt for outright racy with a slinky frock in liquid metal—with matching heels and heavy bling to boot. For a more artistic take, follow David Koma’s lead and reach for one with an arresting print that plays with the eye, lending depth and dimension for an op art slant. Whether you’re feeling naughty or nice, there’s a mini to match. ■

96 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BY LAUREN ALEXA

DA R E TO BA R E

Jazz up your earth-tone get-up with a flashy pair of METALLIC BOOTS.

Keep things sexy-cool in a long sweater vest that ends just above your THIGH-HIGH BOOTS.

BOOT CAMP Raise the stakes in all-season boots that serve up serious sass

Up the fun quotient with quirky RAIN BOOTS in a bright, cheery hue.

Show you mean business with badass COMBAT BOOTS to finish that street-chic look.

BY LAUREN ALEXA. PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT

Elevate a long, lean silhouette with COLOUR-BLOCKED BOOTS.

Add a little mix of country with cool COWBOY BOOTS.

SHOP THE BOOTS

Thigh-high boot, $1,496, Stella McCartney

Rain boot, $750, Chloé

Colour-blocked boot, $996, Nina Ricci at Farfetch

Combat boot, $2,389, Off-White

97 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

Metallic boot, $1,510, Giuseppe Zanotti

Cowboy boot, $1,415, Isabel Marant

BAZAAR Showcase

DAWN TO DUSK When is a bag not a bag?

When it’s part of your everyday life.

Longchamp’s Roseau makes the perfect AM to PM arm candy in leather, canvas or with a thick, chunky chain.

Photographed by Zhang Minhua and Jeremy Kieran.

Styled by Donson Chan

98 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

Roseau Jacquard LGP Crossbody bag, $730; trench coat, $3,110; boots, $1,460 OPPOSITE: Roseau Frame Top Handle bag, $1,440; sweater, $290; trousers, $760; boot, $1,460 All clothes and shoes worn throughout the shoot are from Longchamp’s fall/winter 2021 collection

BAZAAR Showcase

Roseau Croco Mini Top Handle bag, $815; sweater, $290; dress, $835 OPPOSITE: Roseau Chaine Mini Top Handle bag, $1,020; jacket, $1,730; matching trousers, $620 Model: Zuo Ye/ Mannequin Makeup: Rina Sim using NARS Hair: Christvian using KEVIN.MURPHY

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Visit WHEN ART AND FASHION COLLIDE

Kiss Small purse, about $2,319, Chloé

HOT BEAUTY LAUNCHES

SCULPTURAL BAGS TAKE FORM AND FUNCTION TO NEW HEIGHTS

THE MOST TALKED ABOUT SKINCARE AND MAKEUP PRODUCTS Helix bag, $647, Mlouye

Mini Swipe bag, about $471, Coperni

Diana bag, Gabriela Hearst

BB – Sleeping Beauty Ardesia bag, about $1,510, Benedetta Bruzziches

Sofia Carson

Anticlockwise from top left: Buff Ryder Exfoliating Body Scrub, $48, Fenty Skin. RESSOURCE Velvet Moisturizing Face Cream, $98; RESSOURCE Fortifying Moisturizing Concentrate, $98, Givenchy. Hydra-Peptide Lip Butters, $27 each, NUDESTIX. SUBLIMAGE La Crème Corps et Décolleté, $412, Chanel. Power Move Hydrating Soft Matte Lipstick in Hot Tomato, $40, BITE Beauty

THIS MONTH Miley Cyrus Doja Cat

MTV VIDEO MUSIC AWARDS 2021 ALL THE FASHION AND BEAUTY HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE RED CARPET

HARPERSBAZAARSG

HARPERSBAZAARSINGAPORE

HARPERSBAZAARSG

PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

Madison Beer

Bella Hadid

EDITED BY CHARMAINE HO

From top: Steel, rose gold, white gold, tsavorite and diamond Happy Sport – Golf Edition watch; Happy Hearts rose gold, mother-of-pearl and diamond bangle; rose gold and diamond bangle; rose gold, malachite and diamond ring, Chopard.

Top; skirt, Longchamp

GILT TRIP A study in body anatomy dressed in diamonds and gold.

Photographed by Gan. Styled by Donson Chan

From top: Tiffany T T1 rings in gold; gold with diamonds; gold Tiffany HardWear Wrap bracelet (worn as necklace); steel and diamond Atlas 2-Hand watch; white gold and diamond Tiffany T T1 Narrow Hinged bangle, Tiffany & Co. Turtleneck sweater, Prada

From top: LV Volt white gold and diamond One Band ring; white gold Multi cuff; steel Tambour Slim Monogram watch; sleeveless sweater, Louis Vuitton

From top: Jeux de Liens Harmony pendant necklaces in rose gold with mother-ofpearl and diamonds; rose gold with malachite with diamonds; (right hand) white gold and diamond Infiniment 12 – Rêverie Nocturne watch; Liens Évidence bangles in white gold with diamonds; rose gold with diamonds; (left hand) Joséphine Aigrette rings in white gold with diamonds; rose gold with diamonds; white gold with diamonds, Chaumet.

Skirt, Gucci. Bralet, stylist’s own

From top: Rose gold and diamond Perlée Sweet Clovers ring; rose gold and diamond Perlée bangle; rose gold, sapphire, mother-of-pearl and diamond Charms Extraordinaire Fée Sakura watch; rose gold and diamond Perlée ring, Van Cleef & Arpels.

Dress, Bottega Veneta Model: Min/Mannequin

JEWELS & WATCHES Clockwise from top left: Clash de Cartier rose gold and onyx bangle, $30,400; white gold, Tahitian pearl, onyx and diamond single earring, $37,200, Cartier. Actress Kaya Scodelario reprises her role as the face of the collection. White gold, Tahitian pearl, onyx and diamond Clash de Cartier bangle, $89,500, Cartier

OPPOSITES ATTRACT Cartier’s newest additions to its Clash de Cartier collection may prove to be its most popular yet—and it’s not just for the introduction of onyx beads and Tahitian pearls into the sleek urbane mix. Instead, what the latest designs do is embody to the utmost the collection’s philosophy of contradictions and turning convention on its head.

The bangle and ring, for example, feature gleaming onyx spheres on their inner side so that the baubles seem to magically float above the skin— resulting in edgy, attitude looks that any style rebel can get behind.

The latest and most talked-about collections Elevate your fitness regime with the steel TAG Heuer Connected × Super Mario smartwatch

BLUE LAGOON

LEVEL UP TAG Heuer has partnered up with Nintendo and to commemorate the occasion, the Swiss watchmaker has released a limited-edition smartwatch that is sure to boost your street swag—if not re-energise your exercise regime. As its name implies, the TAG Heuer Connected × Super Mario features Nintendo’s most beloved character as well as animations that are based on a gaming rewards system: Unlock rewards at each stage of your daily target for different Mushroom Kingdom animations to play. Though the watch, limited to 2,000 pieces worldwide, has already sold out, the TAG-Nintendo collaboration is for the long term, meaning there’s more to come.

Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Summer, inspired by the colour of the deepest lagoons, features an aluminium case and bezel that have been anodised—a process used to achieve its unique colour while ensuring longevity and hardiness. Released in a limited edition of 200 pieces, the 42mm watch is equipped with the brand’s in-house flyback column-wheel chronograph movement for an easy marriage of form and function. “The Big Bang Unico Summer embodies the beauty of our summer experiences. We wanted to give you another shade for this year, to let you relive these magic moments any time Aluminium Big Bang Unico you want,” says Hublot Summer watch, CEO Ricardo Guadalupe. $28,800, Hublot

108 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

Gold, malachite and diamond Legacy drop earrings, $1,800, Poh Heng Jewellery

LOVES

(From left) Nuraliza Osman, Germaine Fraser and Kumar front the Legacy campaign

... Patek Philippe’s self-winding Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G. Intricately detailed with a dial that bears a hand-guilloched swirling pattern beneath its transparent blue enamel, this 36mm white gold number with 168 diamonds on its bezel is the definition of elegance and sophistication with an understated difference.

White gold and diamond Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G watch, Patek Philippe

ONE FOR THE BOOKS Poh Heng Jewellery celebrates all things Singaporean with the launch of its latest Legacy collection designs. The pendant necklace, earrings and bracelet look to the Peranakan tile for their floral motif frame that is inlaid with an option of four stones: Mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli, malachite and agate. Then there is the campaign, which celebrates Singapore’s multiculturalism—it is fronted by stand-up comedian Kumar, lawyer and former Miss Universe Singapore Nuraliza Osman, and finance professional Germaine Fraser—and continues the brand’s overarching and inclusive Created for Love theme launched earlier Rose gold, this year. agate and diamond Legacy bracelet, $1,400, Poh Heng Jewellery

BY CHARMAINE HO

TURKISH DELIGHT

Chinese actress and Jaeger-LeCoultre Friend of the Brand, Ni Ni

DREAM A LITTLE DREAM

Add fun to

your look Melis Goral is the jewellery with a brand for those looking to vibrant expand their collection with Melis something less expected.

Goral ring Hailing from Istanbul, and readily available online at Moda Operandi and the brand’s website (melisgoral. com), the seven-year-old label offers strong lines and geometric forms that take delight in coloured stone play.

The Vibe range of rings, for instance, pairs engraved coral, malachite, turquoise, lapis From left: Vibe rose lazuli or pearl with gold, coral and diamond baguette-cut diamonds ring, about $4,425; rose gold, for a pop of colour that’s malachite and diamond ring, about $3,195, Melis Goral bursting with textures.

Pink gold and diamond Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon Lazura watch, $118,000, Jaeger-LeCoultre

109 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre invites you on a journey across the starry night sky with its Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon Lazura timepiece. Melding the rich blue of lapis lazuli with the gleaming purity of mother-of-pearl and sparkling diamonds (of which there are 190, totalling 3.53 carats), this timepiece retells the tale of celestial romance with a large moon-phase display at the 6 o’clock position. Also gracing its star chart dial is the collection’s signature emblem, a discreet hand-polished star that can be adjusted to mark a special rendezvous by turning a second crown found on the caseband.

JEWELS & WATCHES Loewe fall/ winter 2021

Heart to Heart Rose gold, mother-ofpearl and diamond Happy Hearts Cocktail pendant necklace, $26,600, Chopard

Preen and Plume White gold and diamond Arceau Toucan de Paradis watch, $105,420, Hermès

Prism Delight White gold, rock crystal and diamond Holographique – Prisme cuff, Boucheron

Flower Power White gold, conch pearl, zoisite and diamond The Japanese Sense of Beauty necklace, MIKIMOTO

A Cut Above

Art of Décor Pink gold, mother-of-pearl, onyx and diamond Reverso One Cordonnet Jewellery watch, $293,000, Jaeger-LeCoultre

White gold, sapphire and diamond Extraordinary Lights – Gloaming Illuminations earrings, Piaget

TROPICAL PALETTE Dress in a spectrum of hues made chic with bold, playful shapes

Forget Me Not In a Twirl White gold and diamond Torsade de Chaumet brooch, Chaumet

Cocktail Hour White gold, tourmaline and diamond Hortus Deliciarum Solitaire ring, Gucci

110 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BY CHARMAINE HO

Gold and diamond Fruit Hoops ring, about $4,015, Boochier

MUST HAVE

BY CHARMAINE HO

GARDEN DELIGHTS With a layered dial that’s dressed to the nines with hand-painted floral swirls, this stunning automatic watch is best teamed with pops of colour and arty blooms.

White gold, mother-of-pearl and diamond Éclosion de Chaumet watch, $74,000, Chaumet From top: Top, about $950, ioannes at Net-a-Porter. Trousers, $2,079, KHAITE. Clutch, $1,200, Loewe. White gold and diamond Torsade de Chaumet bangle, Chaumet. Earrings, $715, AZ Factory. Heel, Christian Louboutin

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BAZAAR Showcase

112 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

A NEW CHAPTER

Chanel’s J12 legend continues with two gleaming additions that present all the design house codes of the beloved collection—but with a difference. Be introduced to the J12 Calibre 12.2 Edition 1, which melds form and function impeccably to a fault. By Charmaine Ho. Photographed by Gan. Styled by Jeffrey Yan

Y

ou might wonder what makes Chanel’s latest J12 timepieces so different from the rest of its coveted brethren at first glance. In fact, with its launch taking place right after the Electro Capsule Collection of rainbow-hued wrist-takers earlier this year, you might even think Chanel released these understated designs as a sort of breather before its next collection of headliners is ready to enamour the style-loving public. We assure you that that is definitely not the case here.

Available in the brand’s famed intense black or stark white high-resistance ceramic (four times harder than steel), the watches admittedly offer little aesthetic novelty: The 33mm case size has been a mainstay in the collection since its inception in 2000, and the baguette-cut patterned sapphire crystal bezel is a design feature we’ve seen most recently on the playful Mademoiselle J12 Acte II and astounding see-through J12 X-Ray watches.

But what makes these pieces truly stand out is their significance to the J12 legacy and the progression of Chanel’s standing as a watchmaker. Unlike their 33mm predecessors, which are equipped with a quartz movement, these J12 Calibre 12.2 Edition 1 models house a sparkling new automatic calibre that has been chronometer-certified by the COSC (or Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute responsible for certifying the accuracy and precision of Swiss watches).

Designed and developed exclusively for the Maison by Swiss movement and component manufacturer Kenissi (of which Chanel owns a 20 percent stake), the Calibre 12.2 allows Chanel to present design-forward watch lovers with a J12 option that promises the best of two worlds: Sleek iconoclastic looks powered by technical prowess—all wrapped in a case smaller than an Oreo cookie.

With its tone-on-tone lacquer and ceramic numeral dial, and an inverted brilliant-cut diamond on its crown, the J12 Calibre 12.2 Edition 1 is not only a fitting continuation of the J12 tale that began 21 years ago; it also marks the natural progression of a House bent on producing serious watches that cannot be dismissed. And the hard work and dedication that Chanel has put into this time-telling universe is showing. In 2019, the J12 Calibre 12.1 took home top honours in the standard-setting Fondation du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’s Ladies Watch Prize category—just one of many such honours that the House has won through the years for its timepieces.

When seen in the light of the J12’s accoladed heritage, the latest additions do have a lot to live up to. But with so many established siblings having pathed the way before, the petite timepieces do so with confidence and ease in their own understated-chic—and thoroughly Chanel—way. ■

Steel, ceramic and diamond J12 Calibre 12.2 Edition 1 watches OPPOSITE: (On him) Steel and ceramic J12 watch; white gold Coco Crush ring; (on her) steel, ceramic and diamond J12 Calibre 12.2 Edition 1 watch; Coco Crush earrings in gold; white gold with diamonds; rings in white gold with diamonds; Beige Gold; Beige Gold, white gold and diamond Toi et Moi ring All watches and jewellery worn throughout the shoot are by Chanel. All clothes are from Chanel’s fall/winter 2021 collection

113 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BAZAAR Showcase

Steel, ceramic and diamond J12 Calibre 12.2 Edition 1 watch; gold, white gold and diamond Coco Crush earring; Beige Gold and white gold Coco Crush Toi et Moi ring OPPOSITE: (On her) Steel and ceramic J12 watch; white gold, ceramic and diamond Ultra ring; (on him) steel and ceramic J12 Paradoxe watch; white gold and ceramic Ultra ring Models: Janice Low/Basic Models; Aloysius Chua/ NOW Model Management Makeup: Wee Ming Hair: Edward Chong/ Evolve Salon

THE J12 CALIBRE 12.2 EDITION 1 IS NOT ONLY A FITTING CONTINUATION OF THE J12 TALE THAT BEGAN 21 YEARS AGO; IT ALSO MARKS THE NATURAL PROGRESSION OF A HOUSE BENT ON PRODUCING SERIOUS WATCHES THAT CANNOT BE DISMISSED. 114 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

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JEWELS & WATCHES

LILY IN LIGHTS Emily in Paris star and face of Cartier’s Clash [Un]limited campaign Lily Collins is big on personal growth.

In this BAZAAR exclusive, she speaks to Charmaine Ho about pushing boundaries, evolving and finding a kindred spirit in the French maison

ctress, author and philanthropist Lily Collins is camera shy—at least, in this instance for our Zoom interview. In the midst of packing and moving out of her Beverly Hills mansion, she hasn’t had a moment to spruce up. So, sadly, I won’t be able to see her on fleek brow game first-hand. But the Emily in Paris star has such a genuinely amiable nature, she feels like a girlfriend you catch up with ever so often over a glass of wine—all this within minutes of meeting her for the first time.

IRL, Collins is quite unlike her Golden Globe-nominated character and her many cringey blunders in the abovementioned show—it’s unlikely you’ll ever find Collins committing French faux pas. The daughter of English music legend Phil Collins and American actress Jill Tavelman is thoroughly world-savvy. She grew up in the English countryside before moving to California with her mum after her parents’ divorce, spending summer days at Lake Geneva skiing with her dad.

“Travelling is a huge part of who I am. Obviously, during this time, we haven’t been able to travel. But travelling and experiencing different cultures and getting outside my comfort zone [are things] that I welcome and really, really miss,” she says.

A quick look at her resume is enough to convince that she means what she says and is not averse to pushing personal boundaries.

Since her breakthrough role alongside Sandra Bullock in the 2009 film The Blind Side, she has taken on a diverse list of projects that have seen her flexing her acting muscles in an array of character types, from a fairy-tale princess (Snow White in 2012’s Mirror Mirror) to the girlfriend of a serial killer (Zac Efron’s Ted Bundy in 2019’s Extremely Wicked, Shockingly Evil and Vile) and the wife of English literature’s most beloved author (Tolkien, as played by Nicholas Hoult in the 2019 eponymous film).

“I have to read the script and feel like I’m going to learn something about myself through the character that I’m playing, even if we don’t have a lot in common,” she explains. “As long as you know that the journey of making it is going to be something that’s memorable and special in a [personal] growth type of way, then I think that’s a reason to do it.”

A similar philosophy applies when she’s considering lending her name and star influence to non-acting projects—like being the face of Cartier’s new Clash [Un]limited campaign.

“With films, if a director has a clear vision of what he wants to accomplish, and you believe that he has the people around him to help accomplish that, you have the trust and faith to let go and

feel nurtured and safe. And I feel like there’s a similarity there with Cartier,” she says of the partnership. “You know what you’re going to get because of the tradition of the brand. And [Cartier has] proven time and again just how special a brand [it is]; just how culturally iconic it is. [It’s like a] director of a film who’s going to guide you and ultimately create a project that you’re going to be proud to be a part of.”

Of course, it also helps if you’re a fan of the designs you’re fronting and Collins is a fan. As she says of the new range: “It’s bold, it’s fresh, it’s modern. It feels very vocal in that it speaks volumes without words. Because you look at a piece and you’re like, ‘Wow, that’s a piece of art that makes me feel fierce and strong and empowered by wearing it.’”

A capsule collection of limited-edition designs that push the rebel-chic vibes of the brand’s Clash de Cartier to the edge, Clash [Un]limited bears confident, oversize proportions that are highlighted through the stark contrast of onyx and diamonds, with a hint of amethyst thrown in for good measure. But it’s not just in the looks department that these pieces stand out. The pieces are paved with stones using the complex, prongless shagreen setting, while bracelets, bib necklaces and wristwatches offer reversibility with diamond studs on one side and onyx square nails on the other. Then there are the rings, which clasp your finger securely with their contours without a single ring band in sight.

“For me, the rings were so different because I’ve never seen rings that just fit in between and not [around] your fingers. To me, that was quite revolutionary and kind of redefining the norm— which is what you look for in pieces that you wear, whether it’s clothing or jewellery,” she adds. “They’re something that men and women can wear. It’s so nice to kind of have [them] be genderless in a sense. I think that that’s really special.”

It seems Collins has been a true Cartier fan since her mum gifted her a Cartier watch for her 18th birthday. “I have so many memories associated with Cartier and pieces of Cartier from when I was younger—there’s so much symbolic value to its designs.

Cartier is a brand that’s constantly evolving and it’s an institution that we look to, to set standards and to also push boundaries,” she says. “As someone who is constantly evolving and changing with every character that I play and [yet] still wants to stay true to who I am, that’s what Cartier represents to me.”

Seems that sparkle and shimmer tread closely in Collins’s life. “I know it’s random, but I love healing crystals; I’m very much about mindful meditation and exploring all types of healing processes—with reiki, crystals or anything like that.”

From the glitter of diamonds to the shining power of crystals for the soul, Collins is all-round pretty dazzling, n’est-ce pas? ■

116 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

White gold, onxy and diamond reversible cuff All jewellery worn throughout the shoot is from Cartier’s Clash [Un]limited collection

117 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

JEWELS & WATCHES

IT’S BOLD, IT’S FRESH, IT’S

From top: White gold, onyx and diamond ring; reversible cuff; single earrings OPPOSITE: White gold, amethyst, onxy and diamond ring; cuff

118 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

MODERN. IT FEELS VERY

VOCAL IN THAT IT SPEAKS VOLUMES WITHOUT WORDS.

PHOTOGRAPHY: ZOE GHERTNER © CARTIER

—LILY COLLINS ON CARTIER’S NEW CLASH [UN]LIMITED

119 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

JEWELS & WATCHES

THE IMAGINARIUM Trip the light fantastic into the land of reverie as this year’s high jewellery creations promise to awe and delight.

By Charmaine Ho

If art is an escape from reality as Henri Matisse once proclaimed, then the artistry found in this year’s haute joaillerie collections should be regarded as an invitation to embark on an exhilarating journey of the imagination. Decadent gems are presented on otherworldly forms, brought to life through revered craftsmanship and innovative techniques that push the envelope of the inspired art form. Defiantly beautiful and joyously fantastical, these creations transport you from a life lived to a life dreamed through an evocative spectrum of emotions.

Boucheron’s intimate 25-piece Holographique collection, for example, weaves light as if it were a material in itself. Ceramic peonies and pansies look as if they were dipped in liquid rainbow before being further dressed with sizable central stones. Rock crystals are cut into geometric, sci-fi-looking cuffs and necklaces that are then similarly prism-glazed and lined with diamonds. The overall effect is one that captivates as much as it astounds—and it’s in part thanks to the Maison’s partnership with French aeronautics company Saint-Gobain and its cutting-edge silver and titanium powder oxide finish.

Also inspired by light (albeit in a more traditional manner) is Piaget’s Extraordinary Lights with coloured gems leading the charge. Comprising 48 creations grouped to three themes, the collection is rife with colours and shapes that have since come to be associated with

From top: Bvlgari’s Magnifica – Serpenti Metamorphosis necklace. The elephant brooch from Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection, featuring a 43.21-carat emerald. Piaget’s Extraordinary Lights – Gloaming Illuminations sapphire and diamond necklace.

Chopard’s titanium and diamond Red Carpet Collection wave earrings. Piaget’s Extraordinary Lights – Celestial Ballet ring

Piaget’s brand of chic joy. In Festive Lights, yellow diamonds and rubies from Mozambique and Thailand paint a night sky filled with floating paper lanterns. Graduating sapphires and emeralds depict the aurora borealis in Magical Lights, while in Infinite Lights, the exceptional Extraordinary Lights necklace with yellow diamonds, sapphires and spessarite garnets hold fast the fleeting colours of dusk and dawn in its nine-in-one design.

Inviting us on an intergalactic adventure is Van Cleef & Arpels’s Sous les Étoiles. Looking to the scientific literary tradition that includes works by 17th-century German astronomer Johannes Kepler and 19th-century French astronomer Camille Flammarion, the Maison’s latest celestial body of work melds science with poetry. A wealth of gems informs the creations, with multi-wear transformability featuring strongly in the 150-piece collection.

The Hélios necklace with its 50.38-carat Sri Lankan yellow sapphire, for instance, can be worn in three different lengths, with or without its tassel. A portion of its diamond and pearl necklace doubles as a diadem as well. Then there’s the reversible Antennae necklace with 417 carats of pink and mauve Madagascan sapphires that took over two years to gather, which drape around the neck in a variety of ways.

Bringing us back down to familiar territory is Chopard’s 74-piece Red Carpet collection unveiled at the launch of this year’s Festival de Cannes (Chopard has been the film festival’s official partner since 1998). Aptly titled Paradise, this year’s collection of gems pays tribute to the unspoilt, generous and sublime beauty of nature.

Hokusai-esque wave and hellraiser flame earrings—made all the more vivid with treated, coloured titanium—sit comfortably with an elephant brooch and a whimsically OTT dog choker.

The last, a true head-turner crafted from ethical white gold and rose gold, and paved with coloured diamonds, took over 1,200 hours to produce and bears a kennel of dogs, including a St Bernard, an Afghan hound and a poodle.

The raison d’etre of haute joaillerie is intricately tied to the masterful showcase of astonishing gems.

Even so, Bvlgari takes this concept further with its astounding 350-piece Magnifica collection. As Bvlgari declares, it’s the House’s most precious collection yet with stones so generously sized that they’d impress the unimpressionable.

The Imperial Spinel necklace bears the world’s fourth-largest known spinel at 131.21 carats. The Hypnotic Emerald necklace is crowned with a 93.83-carat cabochon-cut Colombian emerald, while the Mediterranean Queen necklace pays tribute to the azure waters of its namesake sea with five oval cushion-cut Paraíba tourmalines totalling 500 carats (2,400 hours went into its making). As for the Prodigious Color necklace, expect over 288 carats of cabochon-cut amethyst, citrine, rubellite, blue topaz and pink quartz lending their luscious gleam in a true display of the Bvlgari style.

Then there’s Cartier and its Sixième Sens par Cartier collection. Its name means “sixth sense” in French, and the creations lay bare the Maison’s ambitions of capturing the emotions and cadence of its gems—and with such an extravagant display of gems and techniques that one cannot help but sit up and take notice. The platinum frame of the Alaxoa necklace is adorned with 110.39 carats of faceted, beaded and cabochon emeralds that move and dance to the body’s rhythm like meadow grass in the breeze. The onyx, rock crystal and diamond Meride necklace bears a beguiling illusion that tricks the eye into thinking it sits flat against the skin despite its tiered structure. Even more amazingly, the Phaan ring holds a secret in the form of a 4.01-carat rose-cut diamond that sits out of sight beneath its 8.20-carat central ruby for added brilliance and intensity.

Each design is an ode to the exalted artistry of haute joaillerie, delivered through the unwavering technical virtuoso of its atelier—promising an unforgettable encounter marked with wonderment and delight. ■

THIS YEAR’S HAUTE

JOAILLERIE COLLECTIONS

SHOULD BE REGARDED AS AN INVITATION TO EMBARK ON AN EXHILARATING JOURNEY OF THE IMAGINATION.

From top: Van Cleef & Arpels’s transformable Sous les Étoiles Hélios necklace and Halley parure.

Boucheron’s Holographique – Chromatique brooch with a 25.01-carat tourmaline and the Holographique necklace. Cartier’s Sixième Sens par Cartier – Phaan ring has a hidden 4.01-carat diamond

HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BAZAAR Showcase

WHO’S THAT GIRL? Melding clean, strong lines with bold, geometric forms, Bvlgari’s new B.zero1 designs are made for women who know what they want.

Photographed by Wee Khim. Styled by Sharon Tulasidas

Twenty-two years have passed since it was first launched and Bvlgari’s B.zero1 collection remains one of the brand’s most beloved iconoclasts.

Inspired by the determined lines of Rome’s Colosseum, the designs present edge with elegance, boldness with beauty—not least in the B.zero1 Rock range launched last year, which introduced pyramid studs into its creations. The results? Designs that push the boundaries of what the collection stands for: Individuality and fearless spirit.

Rose gold and ceramic large hoop earring; gold and ceramic Design Legend ring.

Knit top, Loro Piana All jewellery worn throughout the shoot is from Bvlgari’s B.zero1 collection

This year sees the unveil of six new designs in the B.zero1 Rock range, including the most precious one yet: The B.zero1 Rock Chain necklace shown here.

Pavéd with 7.20 carats of diamonds, this white gold number features a distinctive chain with links that comprise three hand-set and -assembled elements that echo the design motif of its collection. It comes with an additional thin white gold chain, which means you can style it in multiple ways: With or without the pendant on either chain.

From top: Rose gold and ceramic Design Legend ring; white gold and diamond Rock Chain necklace; bangles in rose gold with diamonds; rose gold; white gold with diamonds.

Shirt, CELINE by Hedi Slimane

BAZAAR Showcase

Another highlight of the 2021 range comes in the form of the “Total Black” designs that showcase Bvlgari’s ingenious craftsmanship and expert jewellery know-how.

Featuring cutting-edge black ceramic highlights on thin rims (a feat made more difficult by the fact that ceramic is a reputedly difficult material to work with), the standout baubles are a chic lesson in stealth and elegance.

Rose gold Rock 4-band ring; rose gold and ceramic “Total Black” pendant necklace.

Top, model’s own

Presenting sleek architectural volume through unapologetically graphic lines, Bvlgari’s B.zero1 collection promises an encompassing range of designs that speak to every style need.

From its statement 4-band rings that envelop the finger with their confident forms to the bangles that can be mixed, matched and stacked, it’s a collection of selfexpression—said with Bvlgari’s unmistakeable flair.

From top: Rose gold, ceramic and diamond 4-band ring; rose gold and ceramic Rock 2-band ring; rose gold and ceramic “Total Black” 2-band ring; gold 4-band ring.

Cropped sweater, Fendi Model: Anais/AVE Makeup and hair: Marc Teng using NARS and Keune

HOROSCOPE LIBRA

SCORPIO

24 SEPTEMBER – 23 OCTOBER

24 OCTOBER – 22 NOVEMBER

Be careful not to overpromise when negotiating financial or work-related matters with someone you wouldn’t want to disappoint. Uranus opposing Venus could distort your thinking when determining the best way to move forward. It’s more vital than ever to make accurate assessments of money coming in and going out. Reality mustn’t give way to fantasy.

When people want to gatecrash an event organised for yourself and someone special, you’ll wonder if you should tolerate the intrusion.

But you’ll quickly realise that in the end, nobody would be happy with the outcome, especially if you were to show your resentment. Be upfront and put boundaries in place.

SAGITTARIUS

CAPRICORN

23 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER

22 DECEMBER – 20 JANUARY

Although there’s nothing wrong with taking it easy for a while, you might become restless if you feel you’re no longer part of the action. A small group of individuals would like nothing more than to collaborate with you on a venture. Hear what they have to say before committing yourself—or not.

Unexpected developments will present you with a moral maze that mustn’t undermine your confidence. You’ve managed restrictions placed on you extremely well, but a Mercury-Saturn link will encourage you to bend if not break one or two rules. Don’t be too proud to ask those you trust implicitly for help in making some crucial decisions.

AQUARIUS

PISCES

Acknowledge that you have itchy feet, having felt constricted in your movements for far too long. With some careful planning, you can arrange a journey or get-together that will boost your spirits.

And remember, there might be one or two individuals close by who would like to be included but are too polite to suggest it.

ARIES 21 MARCH – 20 APRIL

No one could accuse you of being lazy, but there’s one specific area that has suffered from neglect recently. And you would do well to acknowledge the needs of one particular individual who has almost certainly been left to struggle alone. Is it your fault? Not especially. Can you make a huge difference? Definitely.

GEMINI 22 MAY – 21 JUNE

Refuse point blank to adopt strategies suggested by somebody else when it comes to a family, household or professional dilemma. Initially, it will all seem to make sense. But you’ll soon start to see holes appearing in the logic of what’s involved. That’s the point at which you have to call a halt and start over.

20 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH

VIRGO 24 AUGUST – 23 SEPTEMBER Rather than panic when expected to produce something ingenious, tap into a vein of creativity you often overlook.

You’ve been typecast in a role that fails to allow you to put your talents to the best use, but you’re about to be given a chance to show who you really are and what you can do.

Rose gold and multi-gem Magnifica – Baroque Spiral High-End watch, Bvlgari

CANCER 22 JUNE – 23 JULY

Others may not be as scrupulous as you are regarding partnership and joint financial or property dealings. If a petty political matter crops up, you must try to clarify it immediately. Any criticism of your tactics must be ignored and you have to keep convincing yourself that you know best—which you do.

126 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

The sudden urge to enter into a shared enterprise in mid-September could lead you into fascinating territory. But promise yourself that before very long, you’ll have tied up any loose ends and made sure everything is safe and secure. The thrill of what you’re doing mustn’t distract you from putting checks and balances in place.

TAURUS 21 APRIL – 21 MAY

However well meaning your intentions are, you mustn’t overreact to what feels like rejection from someone close.

Towards the end of the month, when Mercury appears to move backwards, the appreciation you initially felt for your support will cool. Put it down to misinterpretation and give it time.

LEO 24 JULY – 23 AUGUST

Unusual, perhaps even wacky, ideas will spring to mind. And although a Sun-Uranus connection will make you feel invincible, companions may doubt your judgement.

Consider the points being raised. Yes, you’re ready for change and challenges.

But not without conducting a full risk assessment.

BY PETER WATSON

21 JANUARY – 19 FEBRUARY

MAN EDITED BY JEFFREY YAN

REBEL WITH

A CAUSE AYDEN SNG REPRESENTS A NEW BREED OF STAR. HE HAS THE TALENT AND THE LOOKS, BUT HE ALSO HAS DARING AND GRIT TO SPARE. DETERMINED TO DO THINGS HIS WAY, THE ACTOR AND MUSICIAN TALKS ABOUT BREAKING OUT OF BOXES AND TEARING UP THE RULE BOOK.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY GAN. WRITTEN AND STYLED BY JEFFREY YAN Harness; coat; top; trousers, Salvatore Ferragamo

T

BAZAAR MAN

he rise of Ayden Sng marks the arrival of a new kind of leading man. At 28, Sng is a true multi-tasking millennial—a star who is as comfortable on a TV set (he can be seen next as the lead in the upcoming Mediacorp Chinese drama Truth about Us) as he is on a stage with a microphone and an erhu (he recently released an erhu cover of the BTS hit “Butter” and directed the accompanying music video), or in his living room shooting clips for YouTube, Instagram and TikTok. He refuses to be bound by conventional boundaries, nor does he think that certain mediums are lesser than others—to him, it’s all content and a good content creator excels at all. This boldness extends to the way he navigates fame as well.

Opinionated and outspoken, Sng does not shy away from speaking up. On this BAZAAR shoot, he was one of the rare subjects who would enthusiastically discuss the mood board with the creative team, inspect the rack, offer his thoughts on the collections and pieces pulled, and then run excitedly to his car to grab some of his own stuff that he thinks would work. “I love that this shoot plays with gender neutrality, like how you can look masculine in clothes that aren’t conventionally so. It’s something that I personally like to push as well,” he says of the concept. In our interview, he is equally candid, opening up about his struggles in an industry with rules and hierarchies that seem archaic to him, and his grander ambitions to make a name for himself beyond TV. This is Ayden Sng in his own words.

ON NOT BEING BOXED IN “I think for a period of time, I wasn’t very happy in this industry because I felt boxed in. People kept telling me I had to be a certain way, I had to act a certain way; everything I did needed to be within this little box.

With acting, for example, because I do Chinese drama, there are prescribed methods that some veteran directors expect of you. But many roads lead to Rome.

Those prescribed methods are good methods, but there are also other methods. How you do your own research, watch shows and other actors from other countries, and chart your own path, that’s important.

There’s also this rhetoric that if you’re an actor, you’re not supposed to do anything else—you don’t

need to practise your hosting skills because you’re not meant tohost; you don’t have to learn about improv because you’re given a script; you don’t need to play music because that lies outside of what you’re doing; you don’t need to engage in social media because you’re not an influencer. I think that’s a very archaic mindset. If you’re an artiste, it’s your responsibility to have reach on multiple platforms. Things you think you can’t do, you realise you actually can once you just start doing them.

If you’re a creative at heart, you’d find ways to live outside the box you’ve been put in. And once you remove the parameters of that box, you’ll feel a lot more free. I’m not supposed to be doing only this instead of that; I’m not supposed to be just blindly well behaved. I’m supposed to live freely, create freely and be the best version of myself that I envision— and not according to someone else’s expectations.”

ON TAKING MATTERS INTO HIS OWN HANDS “As an actor, when things don’t work out, it’s easy to say, ‘Oh, it’s not my fault I was cast in a small role’ or ‘Oh, it’s not my fault that the show flopped’. But that doesn’t change the fact that you’re not successful.

What other routes can you then take to be successful if that’s really your passion? Are you able to produce short dramas by yourself or do other things to gain visibility? If your ambition is to be a good actor, then you need to get good practice. And if whatever you’ve signed up for isn’t able to give you that, will you resign yourself to that or find alternatives where you can gain experience and exposure?

The worst-case scenario, which is what I’m doing now, is to produce it yourself. I’m venturing into more short dramas and getting in more practice when it comes to directing and writing my own scripts. If nobody is going to cast you in anything that will benefit your career, then do it yourself. Nobody else is going to take responsibility for your career.

The barriers to entry are still there, but they’re a lot lower today and there are ways to break down those barriers if you put in the right amount of effort at the right places.

128 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

Jacket; vest; shirt, CELINE by Hedi Slimane

129 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BAZAAR MAN

ON REINVENTION “Sometimes, you get to a certain point in your career where you’re like, okay, this is who I am. But I feel, again, that boxes you in. How do I break out of that and arrive at the next stage of who Ayden is? That requires conscious effort. Someone I look up to a lot in the industry is Benjamin Kheng. I think he’s a really good example of someone who doesn’t box himself in.

I don’t know how much of it is a conscious effort and how much is just going with the flow, but he seems to have transitioned seamlessly between different roles— like going from a singer to an actor; he does theater work, he has his own YouTube channel and now, he’s also very successful on TikTok. I want to be able to redefine myself at various stages of my career like that. Once our identity shapes up, we tend to persist in keeping that identity intact.

But more often than not, especially in the entertainment industry where things move so quickly, if you choose to conform to that identity and use that as a shield, you’ll be left behind. Identity should not be a shield; it should be regarded as something malleable, something you need to constantly be updating, like LinkedIn.”

ON FASHION

I see myself as a content creator, so it’s about never stopping [when it comes to creating]. I don’t want to limit myself, like I’m just an actor—there are other things I can do. People always say they’re limited by budgets, but if it’s something you’re passionate about, what’s wrong with spending your own money? I’m a miser in a lot of aspects, but I’ll spend money on the things I care about. In this case, I’ve been spending money to make my own music. It’s a passion project and my producer says I’m not at a professional level yet, but I told him that I’ll work hard to get to that point. If I choose not to create anything, I’ll always be an amateur. After 100 videos, I might not be a professional singer still, but I would have improved.”

“Fashion is a huge interest. I love the fact that it connects us with our past—so much of it is about knowing your historical references. For example, Gucci today is doing something from the Tom Ford years and Maria Grazia Chiuri has updated the Bar jacket of Dior’s New Look from the 1940s. But fashion also points us towards the future, which is something I think Balenciaga does very well. I think what fashion does is canvas the most pressing human desires and translate them into clothes, which is why for spring/summer 2022, you see a liberated, party mood with lots of skin showing—it’s a way of releasing yourself after being cooped up during the pandemic.

A designer I love is Kim Jones. I know it’s not an original choice and some people think he’s lazy because his Dior Men is just collab after collab, but his aesthetic really appeals to me. I love tailoring and with his collabs—like with Peter Doig for winter 2021 or with Amoako Boafo for spring/summer 2021—he has a masterful way of turning prints into a tailored form.

I also like Jil Sander, [Bottega Veneta under Daniel Lee], Zegna, Valentino and Japanese brands such as Yohji Yamamoto—their pieces are quite muted or neutral, but there’s always a strong design element.

I love Prada—I enjoy that dichotomy of ugly-chic, that kind of awkwardness in dressing. Not everything has to make sense and ironically, sometimes, the more visually dissonant things are, the more interesting they become.” ■

130 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

“” I’M SUPPOSED TO LIVE FREELY, CREATE FREELY AND BE THE BEST VERSION OF MYSELF THAT I ENVISION—AND NOT ACCORDING TO SOMEONE ELSE’S EXPECTATIONS.

Top, Dior. Shoes, Valentino. Neil Barrett harness; Louis Vuitton skirt; Gentle Monster sunglasses, Sng’s own.

Socks, stylist’s own OPPOSITE: Blazer; top; skirt, Louis Vuitton.

Shoes, CELINE by Hedi Slimane. Chanel necklace; Bvlgari rings, Sng’s own.

Socks, stylist’s own Makeup: Benji Oo Hair: Christvian; Gabriel Yuen/ MODE Studio Photographer’s assistant: Samsidi Baderi

BAZAAR MAN

FINE & DANDY

AN OFF-KILTER CLASH OF SWEET AND SHARP TONES PUTS A FRESH SPIN ON DAPPER DRESSING Gucci fall/ winter 2021

Pillow Talk

Fine Wine

Bag, $2,280, Bottega Veneta

Sweater vest, Raf Simons

Cuff Love Cufflinks, Tom Ford

Hands On Gloves, $1,590, Prada

Pearl of Wisdom Earring, about $520, Completedworks

Green Knight Blazer, about $1,240, AMI at MR PORTER

Candy Crush Bag, Lemaire

Wade List

Trousers, about $610, Nanushka

Boot, $900, Bottega Veneta

BY JEFFREY YAN

Taupe Up

132 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

MOST WANTED FOOD FOR THOUGHT VIRGIL ABLOH ELEVATES THE EVERYDAY INTO THE EXTRAORDINARY WITH HIS LATEST LOUIS VUITTON COLLECTION

BY JEFFREY YAN

Virgil Abloh was pondering big questions while working on his fall/winter 2021 menswear collection for Louis Vuitton. Specifically, the designer was ruminating on masculine archetypes, and the uniforms and dress codes with which we associate them. The resulting collection toys with and subverts the meanings we imbue into garments; the garments themselves are transformed from the familiar into the unfamiliar—tailoring softened and blown up to billowing proportions; streetwear sharpened and streamlined; Ghanaian Kente cloths crossed with Scottish tartan. This led Abloh to then question the idea of authorship and ownership—once an idea enters the mainstream lexicon and an object becomes an everyday one, free to be accessed by all, who owns what? It is a question once posed by Marcel Duchamp, one of Abloh’s art world heroes, but is transposed here into the realm of fashion. In answering that, Abloh found beauty in the banal, turning coffee cups and pizza boxes into collectible luxury objects. ■ The Coffee Cup bag is $3,100 and the Pizza Box bag is $2,840; both are available at Louis Vuitton, #B1-38 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands (tel: 6788 3888).

133 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BAZAAR MAN

ART CORE Anthony Vaccarello has long been fascinated by the electric 1980s, often referencing the era in his work for Saint Laurent. No one embodies the dynamic energy of that decade more than Jean-Michel Basquiat, the bad boy superstar of the New York art crowd then.

Vaccarello has collaborated with the estate of the late artist, curating a selection of Basquiat works to be exhibited in Saint Laurent Rive Droite stores. To commemorate the show, the designer has released a capsule of clothing, accessories and objects that range from t-shirts and hoodies to phone cases and skateboard decks.

From left: Jean-Michel Basquiat backpack, about $2,035, Saint Laurent Rive Droite.

Reproductions of Basquiat’s artworks.

Jean-Michel Basquiat belt bag, about $1,560, Saint Laurent Rive Droite

IT’S A

MAN’S WORLD THE BRANDS, THE TRENDS AND THE BUZZIEST NEWS TO KNOW NOW

WATCH THE THRONE In 2016, Chanel unveiled the MONSIEUR, its first watch made especially for men—transposing the elegance for which it is known into the realm of men’s horology. Now, the Maison has released the MONSIEUR. Marble MONSIEUR. Marble Edition, a special design limited Edition, $53,800, to 55 pieces worldwide. The Chanel new take features a case of matte black ceramic and steel, and a dial of white-veined black marble. The natural properties of the stone means that each piece is unique in its own way.

SUPERSONIC Louis Vuitton has released its first portable speaker and it is as much an objet d’art as it is a tech device. The Horizon Light Up Speaker’s unusual shape was inspired by the Toupie bag designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, which in turn was inspired by a spinning top. In addition to elevating a utilitarian item, the bold design serves an acoustic purpose, allowing for a 360-degree sound projection when upright and directional sound when placed on its side.

134 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2021

BY JEFFREY YAN

Horizon Light Up Speaker, $4,100, Louis Vuitton

From left: Shirt; sweater; tote, $630, Sacai x KAWS. A look from the Sacai x KAWS collection

S.S. Daley Martine Rose

TRENDING TOPICS THE MOST NEWSWORTHY LOOKS OF FALL/WINTER 2021 BRING COSY AND CHIC TOGETHER IN THE MOST ELECTRIFYING WAYS. BY JEFFREY YAN

Ermenegildo Zegna

Dior Men

GmbH

LEARN THE ROBES

Louis Vuitton

The Row

PHOTOGRAPHY: TPG IMAGES

Balenciaga

Fendi

Ermenegildo Zegna

As the corporate world questions the relevance of the traditional office in today’s work-from-home reality, it is no surprise that the fashion world is also questioning its most emblematic attire: The suit. But just like how the office will never disappear, the suit will not be retired—instead, designers are exploring the forms it can take and which of its conventions can be challenged. For fall/ winter 2021, a suit no longer solely has to be composed of a sharply tailored blazer and trousers. Many designers propose shirts or overshirts in suiting material, as seen at Ermenegildo Zegna, Dior and Bianca Saunders, while Balenciaga removes all stuffiness for a suit as louche as a pair of pyjamas.

Bianca Saunders

Y/Project

NEO SUITING

Balenciaga

After years of skinny and drainpipe silhouettes, the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction when it comes to trouser width. This season, bigger is better. This shift speaks to our current collective need for ease and comfort, which these supersized silhouettes provide in more than ample measure.

Leading the charge is Jonathan Anderson, who shows chequerboard trapezoids at his eponymous label and pansy-printed flares at Loewe, while other notable standouts include Y/Project’s triple-waistbanded pair and Martine Rose’s trackpants-trousers blend.

Loewe

JW Anderson

B I G B OY PA N T S

A reflection of how and where we’ve been spending our time, this is the season designers further blur the boundaries between what we wear indoors and outdoors. The hero piece that emerges out of this monumental paradigm shift is the humble house robe—now no longer relegated to dressing rooms and boudoirs, but a bona fide going out statement. There it is in rich, tactile cashmere at both The Row and Ermenegildo Zegna; hybridised with a tracksuit at Balenciaga and a puffer coat at Fendi; and at Louis Vuitton, whimsically accessorised with Vuitton-branded coffee cups and pizza boxes.

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BAZAAR MAN UNSEEN ACCESSORY

A QUIET PLACE “Nature provides the perfect disconnect from the hustle and bustle of city life, and allows me to connect with the universe on a deeper level.”

“Fragrance is the final touch of style. A signature scent is a mark of identity and announces your arrival even before you actually appear.”

ga akin ali t m i Hal ut in B o time

Halim’s scent essential: Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather EDP ($485 for 250ml)

PARTNERS IN CRIME “My everyday accessories are earrings from my special collaboration with jewellery house MAHIJA, a MAHIJA ring, as well as some rings from KD2024 and Synesthesia.”

TURNING NEGATIVES INTO POSITIVES “I usually channel any frustration and angst into my work and towards the creation of something beautiful.”

Ring, about $955, KD2024

Comme des Garçons fall/ winter 2021

Damini earring, about $227, MAHIJA x HARRYHALIM

INSPIRATION Halim subverts stereotypes through his brand of fashion

DARE TO BE “I design clothes that let people express themselves without fear or judgement. Putting on heels and a dress is not emasculating; rather, it’s an embrace of our individuality and that’s empowering.”

A look from Halim’s spring/ summer 2022 men’s collection

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE “Leopard is a print I gravitate towards.

It’s complex, striking and badass, yet romantic and cheeky at times.

Above all, it lends an air of mystery to its wearer.”

HARRY HALIM

A look from Halim’s resort 2021 collection for women

BY LAUREN ALEXA. PHOTOGRAPHY: NETFLIX

Ring, MAHIJA

Like his favourite designer, the late Tunisian couturier FASH DARLINGS Azzedine Alaïa, 36-year-old Indonesian Harry Halim “My favourite brands are believes in the ability of fashion to empower. And it shows Comme des Garçons and HARRYHALIM.” in the sculptural silhouettes and bold cuts that have become signatures of the designer’s eponymous label, which he founded in Paris in 2010—a year after he relocated there—and expanded into Jakarta and FAVOURED CHILD “I particularly love Los Angeles in 2018 and 2019 respectively. To him, Baby Kitana boot, about my HARRYHALIM style is about taking pride in your appearance while $665, Kitana boots.”

HARRYHALIM staying true to yourself—which Halim does in his “uniform” of black oversize suit worn with cool ankle boots. A mainstay in his wardrobe? Timeless leather.

PARADOX AT WORK “I watch horror films to relax and unwind—my favourites are The Shining and Doctor Sleep. I love the TV series The Haunting of Hill House and The Haunting of Bly Manor too.”

Posters for American supernatural horror TV series The Haunting of Hill House (2018) and The Haunting of Bly Manor (2020)

FOND MEMORIES “Winning the 2006 Asian Young Fashion Designers Contest (AYFDC) is a moment etched in my heart.

The contest represented many firsts for me as a designer—my first show, my first collection, and the first time my brand and I received some recognition in the media.”

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Halim sharing his thoughts with FashionTV after his AYFDC win back in 2006

EDITED BY CHARMAINE HO

CALM AS YOU ARE Lawrence Wong’s sanctuary is an ode to minimalism and tranquility, where design whispers rather than shouts.

Photographed by Veronica Tay. Styled and written by Jeffrey Yan

Lawrence Wong on his second-level stairwell, wearing a sweater and trousers from Valentino, and sneakers from CELINE by Hedi Slimane

A FASHIONABLE LIFE

L

awrence Wong spends his days on lavish sets and bustling mega productions—most recently, the actor can be seen in The Ferryman: Legends of Nanyang, a big-budget fantasy series that marks the first Southeast Asian original series from iQIYI, the Chinese streaming giant. His home, however, is worlds away from the artifice and extravagance of a movie set. Hidden behind a cool grey façade is a two-and-a-halfstorey four-bedroom house in the northeast that Wong has turned into an oasis of serenity—awash in shades of cream and white, and accented with the chalky, sandy hues of stones and the warm tones of wood. The space is bathed in light flooding in from both ends of the house via full-height glass doors at the front and a skylight at the back. The design is minimal, but the effect is warm, thanks in large part to Wong’s use of plush, curved furniture with fuzzy, nubby textures and his penchant for the raw surfaces of stone-clad tables and countertops.

“I was drawn to this area because it’s so peaceful even though it’s just steps away from a vibrant neighbourhood,” shares Wong, who is in his 30s. “This house has a good energy—I feel a sense of calmness and that’s something very important to me because my work is already quite chaotic. I need to go through so many emotions as an

actor, so when I come home, I want a space that allows me to leave all of that behind—like a clean slate, so I can let in other emotions when I head to work again.” To do that, the Malaysian-born Singaporean, who shot to global fame after his turn in the 2018 Chinese period drama Story of Yanxi Palace, embarked on major renovations, opening up spaces and letting the light in. “I opened up the wet kitchen. I reconfigured everything on the second level— initially, you went up and all the rooms were just there. There was no landing and it was dark. I put in skylights and curved walls. I raised the height of some of the ceilings and the mezzanine floor. I just wanted the whole space to feel very open and sort of empty,” he says.

That emptiness, while purposeful and deliberate on Wong’s part, still came as quite a surprise to guests who have been over. “I’m a very minimal person—I don’t feel the urge to decorate and fill every corner or surface with stuff. Some of my friends think it’s cold and empty,” he admits, “but I disagree. I feel the space lends itself to any situation.

It’s warm when I have people over, but when I’m alone, it’s peaceful. My friends think I should hang paintings on the walls because they’re so bare, but unless I find something I love, something that really speaks to me, I’m not going to force it.” Currently,

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From top: Wong, in a Prada bodysuit, lounging in his favourite spot in the house. Wong’s custom dining table, made from travertine and wood, paired with wood and wicker chairs. The house’s high ceilings are accentuated by FLOS pendant lights

I NEED TO GO THROUGH SO MANY EMOTIONS AS AN ACTOR, SO WHEN I COME HOME, I WANT A SPACE THAT ALLOWS ME TO LEAVE ALL OF THAT BEHIND—LIKE A CLEAN SLATE.

the only thing that has caught his eye and the only surface decoration in his house is a custom installation by This Humid House that hangs on the wall facing the entrance. Made of dried foliage, foam and string that have all been bleached of colour, it appears to float like an extraterrestrial plant form—it’s non-colour and wild textures speaking to Wong’s unpretentious approach to design and his preference for quiet beauty over splashy statements.

“I really like when things are left in their raw state,” he reveals, “which is why I’ve used a lot of stone. The dining table is custom made from travertine and wood. I used granite for surfaces instead of marble because I think it’s more subtle.

The floor is also very raw microcement. I don’t like things that scream in your face, so no chandeliers, no gold taps. Nothing here is too precious, not even the furniture.” Part of that is because of his cats, which “will scratch the hell out of everything”, but it is also partly because Wong likes a certain sense of impermanence, of leaving things open to the possibility of change. “If something is destroyed, it’s

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Clockwise from top: Wong’s living room, where creamy neutrals and plush furnishings take centre stage. An installation by This Humid House. Wong, in a Prada sweater, with the ficus tree he brought over from his previous residence. Wong’s collection of crystals and ceramic vessels adorning a corner in his living room

A FASHIONABLE LIFE

I WANT THE SPACE TO BE VERY FLUID AND ADAPTABLE— SOMETHING THAT CAN CHANGE ACCORDING TO WHERE I AM IN LIFE.

From top: Wong, in a Fendi sweater and trousers, and CELINE by Hedi Slimane sneakers, on the stairway leading up to the mezzanine floor.

Wong’s penchant for clean lines translate into frameless doors set flush into the walls and a graphic use of skylights

destroyed—another thing will take its place,” he says. “It’s also why, except for in the kitchen, I have very little built-in furniture or fixtures. I want the space to be very fluid and adaptable—something that can change according to where I am in life and what my needs are at that moment. Five years down the road, if I’ve become a different person and the way I look at my space has changed, I want to be able to make that change. So much of life is about change.”

As for how he has personally changed, Wong posits: “I think now, more and more, I’m able to just roll with things. When you’re younger, you tend to be more controlling or more fixated on certain things— how life should go, what success should look like. But as I get older, I find that I’m more open to different possibilities. Life can go in any direction and I’m okay with that.” He attributes this change in perspective to the literal change he made in his profession, venturing out of Singapore in 2016 to basically restart his career as a small fish in the biggest of ponds: Mainland China’s entertainment industry.

“Compared to a lot of the local artistes who stay put in Singapore, I think I’ve been through a lot more in my career,” he notes. “I’ve seen more, experienced more, travelled more, and I think all these things just add up.”

Although Wong now spends most of his time in China, Singapore will always be home. “It’s where I feel the most grounded,” he shares. “When I’m away, I miss the food here, my cats, my friends, my family, my house, my bed—it’s very, very different

being able to come home after a long day of work and lie on your own couch, take a shower in your own bathroom and fall asleep in your own bed.

Before Covid-19, I’d sometimes fly back just for two days if I could because even though it’s not a long time, it still feels like a recharge.”

When he’s at home, Wong’s favourite place to chill is on his Jean Royère-inspired sofa in the living room. He discloses: “I find myself falling asleep here more often than I do in my bed! Because I’m so busy and rarely around, I really relish the moments where I can just sit here and space out. I like just being here and looking out into the garden, because if you look closely enough, it actually changes every day. It’s something I never realised until I had my own garden and it just amazes me how nature changes so quickly.” Wong’s garden, like the rest of his house, is decidedly unfussy. “I didn’t want it to be manicured—I wanted things that grow wild,” he says. “And a lot of the flowers that I’ve chosen bloom in the morning and die off in the night, and the next morning, they bloom again. I really like that idea; it reminds me very much of life itself and show business in particular—beauty doesn’t last, but that doesn’t mean you can’t bloom again.”

That Zen-like mindset extends to how Wong views earthly possessions and pursuits. “I don’t really form attachments to material things,” he states. “In fact, when I’m in a bad mood or when I feel troubled, I like to get rid of things—I feel like I’m throwing away old energy and making space for something new to come in.” That goes for his approach to fashion

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MAKEUP: PETER KHOR. HAIR: GARY LOW/PASSION HAIR SALON

From top: The skylight of his twoand-a-half storey house. Wong’s Fendi tote and Loewe pouch perched on a chair in his mezzanine-level recreation room.

Wong, in a Gucci shirt and shorts, in his garden.

Wong’s collection of Montblanc watches with ceramic vessels given to him by a friend

as well. “I keep certain key pieces, but I never hold anything too dearly,” he says. The pieces he likes and keeps share a certain minimalist sensibility with his interiors—he reveals that he likes “clothes with really clean lines; things that are well cut in great materials, but with little details that make them special.” A favourite designer of his is Kim Jones of Dior Men. “I love him because he pushes boundaries, but his work doesn’t cross the line, where it becomes too much. It’s still classy and wearable, but you can’t say that it’s boring. You can tell that he has put a lot of thought into it and he’s pushing boundaries, and yet, he gets the wearability balance very right,” he explains. “I even admire his womenswear for Fendi—I’m not going to wear them, but I appreciate the designs.”

It’s no surprise that Wong admires Jones’s subtle method. It mirrors the way he approaches his skincare and lifestyle brand, Grail, where he pushes for innovation in small, thoughtful ways rather than through grand statements and marketing-driven gimmicks.

Having launched a sheet mask

and a sunscreen, he is readying his third product but is unwilling to talk about it yet as it still has not been perfected. “With me, it’s a lot slower because I have to be personally involved in the entire process,” he says. “When we were working on the sunscreen, I was in China, so whenever I wanted to tweak the formulation, they had to send it all the way there. I’d try it for a while and then send it back, and repeat the whole process. That’s why I never set myself a timeline, like, ‘Oh, the 11.11 sale is coming up, we need to launch now.’

I want to be able to guarantee that whatever comes out, it’s a product that I truly stand behind.”

As an in-demand actor and a budding entrepreneur, one has to wonder: When exactly does Wong take a break? “I can’t remember the last time I took one,” he admits. “To be frank, I’m very tired. What keeps me going is the fact that opportunities don’t come knocking all the time.

I’m a firm believer that if you’re doing well at work and it’s time to work, then just work hard. This being show business, you won’t do well at work forever. And when that happens, that’s when you rest hard. That’s just how things are; it doesn’t bother me at all. The world changes so quickly—you just have to roll with it.” More meditative words have never been spoken, though of course, you wouldn’t expect anything less from someone who has built his own temple of Zen. ■

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A FASHIONABLE LIFE

Didier Jaba Mathieu’s The Gathering at Bali Lane

KAMPONG SPIRIT To see the magic that ensues when art meets real life, head to Kampong Gelam and experience Southeast Asia’s first official graffiti Hall of Fame—a term urban artists use to refer to a walled space where they can paint freely.

Except here, the walls refer to the 5m-high metal barriers of the construction sites for the North-South Corridor (slated for completion in 2026), which play canvas to the works of 17 Singapore-based artists, offering close to 240m of vibrant photo opportunities along Bali Lane and Ophir Road. Visitors can choose to take in the sights while in a vintage Vespa sidecar or whilst on a self-guided audio tour. For more information, visit ANTZ’s Yi Shu at Bali Lane hof.visitkamponggelam.com.sg.

Slacsatu’s Sidecar Highlights at Ophir Road

TALKING POINTS

Clockwise from left: A Japanese kosode (circa 1800–50). An early 20th-century Javanese jacket.

A 1990s cheongsam with scarf. Javanese batik (1940)

From the worlds of Art, Culture, Travel and Design

PENN THIS DOWN From 9 September till 22 December, Milan’s Cardi Gallery, in collaboration with The Irving Penn Foundation, is hosting “Irving Penn”, an exhibition that showcases the seminal photographer’s oeuvre from the 1940s to 1990s. Displaying all

WOVEN TALES

chapters of his artistic career, it

The next time you’re at Asian Civilisations Museum, be sure to pop over to its Fashion and Textiles Gallery, where Asian histories, cultures and identities are explored through fashion and textiles from the 18th to the 20th century, from Chinese painted silks to Indian printed cottons and Javanese batiks. This ongoing exhibition, titled “Fashionable in Asia”, comprises three main sections: Competing Threads, Batik Resistance and Creativity on the Pesisir. The first traces the history of fashion design and textile production in Asia, while the latter two chart the rise and evolution of batik.

Irving Penn, Orchid: Rhyncholaelia Digbyana (1969), New York © Condé Nast

counterpoints Penn’s world-famed fashion photography and celebrity portraits with his exploration of cultures and communities that exist on the fringes of modernised society. As befitting of an exhibition in Milan, the first floor of the gallery is dedicated to works relating to Italy. Visit cardigallery.com for more information.

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Irving Penn, Bee (1995), New York, © The Irving Penn Foundation

Mozambique Langoustine, Tomato Strawberry Tartare, Fennel

PLATED SUMMER

RETRO CLICQ Raise a flute for feel-good nostalgia with Veuve Clicquot’s latest Clicquot Tape releases. Housing the brand’s iconic Yellow Label cuvée are three new audio cassette-inspired boxes— complete with screws and teethed reels to seal the deal. Made of upcycled cellulose waste, they are 100 percent recyclable and compostable, and come with a QR code that leads to curated Spotify playlists to set the mood. Available at Market Place at Raffles City Shopping Centre and Tanglin Mall, and Cold Storage at Great World City, Jelita Shopping Centre, Plaza Singapura and Takashimaya.

Italian Piennolo tomatoes, Amalfi lemons and Sicilian green almonds are just some of the ingredients to expect from Buona Terra’s new menu, which is available till end September. Recalling long summer days spent by a lake in his home region of Lombardy, Resident Chef Denis Lucchi recreates the contemporary Italian restaurant’s signature Mozambique Langoustine with a tartare of Carmello tomatoes and Italian strawberries dusted with liquorice powder and finished with a light sea urchin sauce. The Kinmedai sees a meeting of cuisines with the deep-water fish Peaches, Almond grilled over binchotan (a Milk Skin, Crunchy special Japanese charcoal) Amaretto Cake and served with a flavour-packed fish and nduja (a spicy pork sausage from southern Italy) broth. And for comfort on a plate, turn to the elegant fusilli with French Bouchot mussels, heirloom tomato confit, and a potato and extra virgin olive oil emulsion topped with burnt lemon powder.

Charcoal Grilled Dry-Aged Kinmedai, Fish Nduja Broth

Clockwise from far left: Panthère de Cartier vase, $1,660, Cartier. Tigre bayadere blanket, Hermès. Primates Barzza vase, $3,690, Strange & Deranged. Fawn-appliqué cushion, $1,495, Gucci at MatchesFashion.com. Rujiman, Blessing 1 (2021), Ode To Art. Bird’s nest with Tiffany Blue eggs, Tiffany & Co.

ANIMAL INSTINCTS

BY CHARMAINE HO

Walk on the wild side with chic animal-themed décor items that add personality and quirk to your living space.

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