The project is co-funded by the Regional Operational Programme of Lesser Poland for the years 2014 – 2020. The support of small and medium-sized enterprises which operate in tourism and increasing the recognisability of Lesser Poland as a tourist economic brand.
e-podroznik.pl website would be of great assistance while planning organised transport
e-podroznik.pl
By busszczawnica-krakow.pl
diditrans.pl
siolatrans.pl
flixbus.pl
By plane • Cracow - Szczawnica • Cracow - Szczawnica • Katowice - Cracow - Nowy Targ - Szczawnica • Cracow - Szczawnica CracowThe project ‘The support of small and medium-sized enterprises which operate in tourism and increasing the recognisability of Lesser Poland as a tourist economic brand’ (no RPMP.03.03.01-12-0593/18) co-funded by the European Union as a part of the Regional Operational Programme of Lesser Poland for the years 2014 – 2020.
the Foundation for the Development of Regions www.f-rr.org
the Association of Polish Spa Communities www.sgurp.pl
Art Manager: Konrad Rogoziński
Text: Maria Kościelniak
Proofreading: Agata Kościelniak
Translation: Ewelina Natanek-Rogozińska
Design: Klaudia Stochmal
Realization: Digital Places Multimedia Publishing www.digitalplaces.pl
Kraszewskiego 1/406
33-380 Krynica-Zdrój
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Photographies:
Front cover © Piotr Stępniewski
Back cover © Konrad Rogoziński / DigitalPlaces.pl
P 2-3; p 6; p 7 photos no 1, 2, 5, 60; p 8-9 photos no 1, 3, 4, 5; p 10-11; p 15; p 16; p 17, photos no 1, 2, 3; p 18-19 photos no 1, 3, 4, 5, 6; 20-21; p 22-23 photos no 1, 2, 4; p 25, p 26; p 27 photos no 1 i 2; p 28; p 29 photo no 1 © Konrad Rogoziński / DigitalPlaces.pl
P 12 photos no 2 i 5; p 13 © the press materials of Pieniny SPA Resort
P 1; p 4-5; p 7 photos no 3 i 4; p 8-9 photos no 2 i 6; p 22-23 photo no 3 © Wiktor Baron
P 9 photos no 7 i 8; p 17, photos no; p 22-23 photo no 5; p 24 © Łukasz Świętach
P 18 photo no 2 © Zbigniew Lach
P 27 photos no 3 i 4; p 29 photo no 2 i 3 © Adobe Stock
‘Who has seen these places once (...) will have their image stamped in their memory forever.’ This is what Jan Roztworowski wrote about the Pieniny Mountains. Despite the fact that Szczawnica Commune is only partially located in the area of these mountains, it definitely constitutes their heart and the surrounding Beskid Sądecki is its ideal complementation.
S zczawnica Commune is a well-known spot on the tourist map of Poland. It lies in the south of Lesser Poland, over the Dunajec and the Grajcarek River close to the border with Slovakia. From one side, it is surrounded by the Pieniny National Park. Szczawnica-Zdrój, a spa which has been treasured for many years, constitutes its centre. East of Szczawnica-Zdrój, there is the Grajcarek Valley where two villages are situated – Szlachtowa and Jaworki, former Shlakhtov Ruthenia. Above the villages two mountain ranges stretch – from the south the Little Pieniny, less known, less crowded than the Pieniny National Park and rich in beautiful views of the Tatras and the Central Pieniny. From the north, the Radziejowa Range of the Beskid Sądecki rises over it. You will find there old Ruthenian meadows, interesting rocks and even extinct volcanoes. You will come across herds of sheep, shepherd dogs, shepherd’s huts with oscypki (traditional highlander sheep cheese) – an integral part of these lands.
The landscape is one thing but Szczawnica has witnessed a long and interesting history as well. On one hand, it is enriched with the heritage of Vlachs and Ruthenians – former Shlakhtov Ruthenia. It was them who built beautiful Orthodox churches, created pastoral culture, took care of meadows, and shaped the region. Even though they were forced to leave this land, they left their spirit there. On the other hand, there is Szczawnica itself – a spa famous for mineral water created by two Josephs –Józef Szalay and Józef Dietl. Those two ambitious men whose aim was to transform Szczawnica into a resort to match huge, popular alpine resorts. Were they successful?
Ask Sienkiewicz, Asnyk, Konopnicka (famous Polish writers) or Matejko (a famous painter). They loved the resort so much that they stayed there very often and created its history together.
Today Szczawnica Commune is a beautiful blend of tradition, history, landscape and spa resources. This is a place where everybody will find something for themselves and breathe in the clean air of the Pieniny. The attractions of Szczawnica are well-known across the whole country: rafting, Droga Pienińska (the Pieniny Tract), the Homole Canyon, Trzy Korony Mountain (Three Crowns Mountain, 982 m), the spring and autumn Redyk (the spring and autumn Trailing of the Sheep). Moreover, Szczawnica is your hideaway from the crowds where you can find peace – small Jaworki, the clearings over Grajcarek and old Orthodox churches where even bats have found some peace!
Voivodeship: Lesser Poland
Poviat: Nowy Targ
Seat: Szczawnica
Villages: Szczawnica (town) and Szlachtowa, Jaworki (villages)
Neighbours on: Krościenko over the Dunajec, Łącko, PiwnicznaZdrój, Rytro, Stary Sącz Communes and Slovakia
Area: 87,9 km²
Population: approximately 7 350
Spa status since: 1924
Szczawnica is a commune which spreads in one of the most beautiful corners of Poland. It is located in the south of Lesser Poland, close to the border with Slovakia, in the heart of the Pieniny though officially within the Beskid Sądecki.
From the west, the commune is surrounded by the Dunajec which flows through limestone rocks and creates the most beautiful river gorge in Poland. By the river, the Central Pieniny (one out of three parts of the Polish Pieniny), which are under protection of the Pieniny National Park, stretches. This amazing spot borders on the commune and constitutes its greatest attraction. Szczawnica is a great starting point to get to Sokolica (747 m) or Trzy Korony (982 m). East of the spa, there is the Grajcarek Creek Valley – Szczawnica lies by the creek. Further, there is Szlachtowa and, right beside it, Jaworki. The Little Pieniny and the Radziejowa Range of the Beskid Sądecki tower over the villages. The borders of the commune reach the Rozdziela Pass (803 m) and Przehyba (1,173 m).
The landform and geological structure of the vast part of the commune is definitely typical of the Pieniny. On both sides of the Grajcarek, one may see characteristic limestone rocks which form these mountains. Bryjarka (679 m) is a mountain from which mineral water of Szczawnica flows out. It towers over the town on the side of the Beskid Sądecki and is partially built from andesite. Over Jaworki, we can see a beautiful basalt rock. This outstanding structure of the Pieniny and the surrounding areas is connected with the long formation of this range. Hundreds of million years ago this area was under the Tethys Ocean with a heterogeneous floor on which various sediments accumulated.
The wildlife of the region is also exceptional. The Pieniny National Park is a place where you will find the biggest number of various plant species per 1m2 in Poland. Additionally, we may come across relic plants in this area. The mountains over the Grajcarek are wooded with the spruce but there are also many pastures. Where sheep graze, there is a diversity of various species. In places where sheep do not graze anymore, pastures overgrow in order to become a forest.
At the mouth of the Grajcarek to the Dunajec
A view from Wysoki Wierch in the direction of the Pieniny Rafting on the Dunajec
Along the yellow trail to Bereśnik
The Pieniny is an extraordinary and unique part of the Carpathians. They are not the Tatras any more but not the Beskids yet. These beautiful mountains are a part of the Pieniny Klippen Belt – a range which stretches for 600 km from Austria to Romania and is 20 km wide. The Pieniny Klippen Belt separates the Outer Carpathians and the Central Carpathians but it is not a typical mountain range. They are more or less isolated rocks, not visible in every place. The exception is a Polish part of the Pieniny. This is the highest and the most dense part of the Pieniny Klippen Belt. Its distinguishing feature is the fact that it consists mainly of limestone. Limestone rocks are easy to distinguish due to their colour. Another distinguishing feature is their sharp shape – unlike flysch, which creates the Beskids, limestone is resistant to erosion. Flysch scours, hence, mountains which are built from it have a gentle shape.
When we ask about the most popular mountain in the Pieniny, we will always get one answer – Trzy Korony (Three Crowns, 982 m). This massif, which consists of five peaks and has a platform on the highest one of them, is immensely popular. Annually, it is visited by thousands of tourists who very often queue for a long time to get to the top. However, only few people know that despite being so popular, it is not the highest mountain of the Pieniny (solely of the Central Pieniny and the Pieniny National Park). The highest peak is Wysoka Mountain (High Mountain), also called Wysokie Skały (High Rocks), which rises to the height of 1,050 m. It is a part of the Little Pieniny – as we can see they are little only in name. If you reach Wysoka, you will be rewarded with a beautiful panorama and the view of Trzy Korony (982 m).
The Pieniny National Park is the first Polish national park. It was created in 1932 in the area where other forms of protecting nature had already existed. The park was created in cooperation with Czechoslovakia. It was decided that their part of the Pieniny should be protected too. Hence, the park was also the first international one in Europe. Year after year, the area of the park was extended and now it covers 2,372 ha including 744 ha which is under strict protection. The highest mountain of the park is Trzy Korony and its highest peak, Okrąglica, reaches 982 m. Despite the fact that the park is not very big, its flora is diverse. The most interesting plants may be seen in the massif of Trzy Korony. You will come across some endemic species such as the erysimum hungaricum and the taraxacum pieninicum. As far as rare species of animals are concerned, you can come across a beautiful butterfly – the mountain Apollo.
Bryjarka (679 m) and Jarmuta (794 m), even though not as majestic or definitely not as dangerous as Vesuvius, have volcanic features. Where did volcanoes come from in the area? Everything started 24 million years ago when the Pieniny, during one of the upheavals, emerged from the primaeval ocean. At the same time, from under the earth’s cracking crust, from the earth’s interior, andesite magma started to flow out creating specific hills. Hiking to the two peaks, we can see the aforementioned andesite. Bryjarka, a peak towering over Szczawnica, is very inconspicuous but thanks to its volcanic structure, springs of mineral water flow out. Jarmuta, with its conical shape, resembles a volcano more. There are outcrops of andesite but not the rock is the most interesting here. It is said that a few hundred years ago Prince Sanguszko found silver there!
Bryjarka – in the centre on the horizonMany of us associate Szczawnica with its down part with the Pieniny Tract, the Dunajec and rafting, with raftsmen, with the promenade over the Grajcarek and the Pieniny Mountains which surround the town. However, the spa heart of Szczawnica pounds a little bit higher – in Zdrojowa Street and on Dietl’s Square where Sienkiewicz, Asnyk and Konopnicka used to stroll, where Szalay and Dietl realised their great plans!
Szczawnica was granted the spa status in 1924. However, its health-resort history is longer. It is enough to look at the name of the town. The word ‘Szczawnica’ was derived from ‘szczawa’ which means acidulous mineral water which local highlanders must have known much earlier as they had called their town after it.
We can discuss the development of Szczawnica as a spa since Stefan Szalay appeared. He inherited the town from his father and contributed greatly to its growth. The first spa buildings and guest houses sprang up. Szalay organised first tourist raftings on the Dunajec and was the initiator of creating the Pieniny Tract. During his lifetime another Józef came to Szczawnica, Józef Dietl – a doctor, a balneologist, the promoter of Polish health resorts who
helped to determine the direction of the development of Szczawnica. Then, a lot of important mineral water springs were discovered. Both men aspired to make Szczawnica a spa which would suit European standards. The aim was quickly accomplished – in the second half of the 19th century Matejko, Prus, Konopnicka and Sienkiewicz would come there. In Zdrojowa Street we can still see beautiful buildings which remember the beginnings of the spa.
In 1909 Earl Adam Stadnicki was in possession of Szczawnica – at the time he was in charge of nearby lands up to Nawojowa. That was the time of great prosperity for the town. After the War, the resort was nationalised. Then, a lot of sanatoria started operating, especially the ones which focused on the treatment of occupational diseases of miners and foundry workers. The earl’s heirs regained the spa in 2005.
Today Szczawnica is still a well-known and frequently chosen health resort. Visitors can take advantage of beneficial mineral waters and the climate of the Pieniny. Szczawnica also tempts with numerous attractions, clean air and breathtaking views!
There are plenty of diseases which can be treated in Szczawnica: obesity, osteoporosis, diabetes, orthopaedic injuries.
You will find there sanatoria either for adults or children and outpatient clinics. Treatments are also conducted in a lot of hotels and guest houses. However, the most important are acidulous waters (bicarbonate, iodine, sodium, bromine, boric, chloride and calcium ones) which can be
drunk, used in baths and inhalations. The climate plays a crucial part as well. Not only does mountain air of the Pieniny support treatment but also allows relaxation.
Magdalena
The seasonal mineral water spring ‘Pitoniakówka’
Shlakhtov Ruthenia is a historic name of the area which stretches by the Grajcarek and the Biała Woda – today Jaworki and Szlachtowa. Right before the Second World War it was inhabited by Lemko People called Ruthenians. They were of Wallachian origin and came there in the 14th and 15th century from the Eastern Carpathians. They were shepherds and dwelled in the upper higher mountain areas. Before the forcible resettlement, Lemko villages spread much higher than today’s Jaworki or Szlachtowa. The term Shlakhtov Ruthenia was introduced by Roman Reinfuss – an ethnographer from the University of Wrocław. He noticed the cultural identity of Lemko people who lived there. They were closer to Ruthenians from Slovak Spiš than to their neighbours from the Beskids. Ruthenians from this area were poor, their land was not fertile and they could only grow oats, potatoes or barley. Pasturing was their main way of life.
When after the Second World War Ruthenians were resettled from the area of Szlachtowa and Jaworki, Highlanders from Podhale came to replace them. They leased the land as compensation for their pastures in the Tatras which were incorporated into the Tatra National Park which was being created at the time. The authorities aimed to develop pasturing in the Little Pieniny on a large scale. In the years 1948–1951 so-called ‘model shepherd’s huts’ were created. They were residential and farm buildings which consisted of a smokehouse, a barn, a shed, stone gutters
and numerous systems which were supposed to facilitate sheep grazing. However, it is easy to guess that the attempt to tell highlanders how to graze their sheep could not be successful. Finally, nobody benefited from them and very fast they fell into ruin. Shepherds, as they had been doing it for ages, preferred to stay with their sheep on pastures and animals, accustomed to mountain conditions, did not need a roof over their heads. However, one of the shepherd’s huts was taken advantage of – below Durbaszka in the 70’s and 80’s of the 20th century it was renovated and transformed into a tourist infrastructure for youths known today as popular the Shelter below Durbaszka.
A wooden raft on the Dunajec, eleven tourists and two raftsmen wearing blue, embroidered vests and black hats – it is a landmark of Szczawnica. Where does the tradition of rafting come from? Initially, raftsmen did not deal with tourists but goods. The Dunajec used to be a trade route along which cereal, fruit or tart were transported. Raftsmen’s work was not easy. They had to be strong, tough and had to swim well. A journey sometimes lasted a few days and very often they had to reach a place where the Dunajec flows into the Vistula! Some sections of the river were difficult, some of them very shallow with a rocky floor and the level of water changed very often. A raftsman had to stay on a river’s bank overnight at a self-made camp. Having reached the destination, he had to sell his raft and come back on foot. The erection of the dam on the Dunajec in Rożnów put an end to the rafting of goods, though they were organised occasionally until the 70’s of
the 20th century. Tourist rafting was promoted by Józef Szalay already in the first half of the 19th century. Raftsmen instead of floating goods in silence, chatted with tourists, told the legends and highlander anecdotes. The attraction soon caught on and today it is one of the best ways to get to know the region and raftsmen are considered to be the best guides.
Jarmuta is one of the most recognisable peaks of the Little Pieniny. It has a conical shape which resembles a volcano and is located almost in the Grajcarek Valley between the Little Pieniny and the Beskid Sądecki. Partially, it is formed out of andesite – volcanic rock. Supposedly, its name was taken from the name of a pogan god whose temple was situated on its peak. The most interesting story connected with Jarmuta happened in the 18th century. At the time silver was dug for there! In 1726 Prince Sanguszko brought to Szlachtowa Hungarian specialists who were to outline places where silver was supposed to be found. They pointed to Jarmuta. The very eager prince created a mining enterprise and brought specialists, nevertheless, they did not find a lot of precious metal. The enterprise was about to be closed when it turned out that a German specialist, a Mr Bittner, found silver in the samples which were brought from the mine. Sanguszko once again got to work eagerly and…once again he was disappointed. It turned out that silver veins were very small and the mined silver was impossible to melt. Bittner was accused of fraud and the attitude of local people towards Sanguszko was very negative. Currently, we know that trace amounts of silver which gave hope to the prospectors were connected with andesite structure of Jarmuta.
Szczawnica is a small, charming town situated in one of the most beautiful corners of the Pieniny. The town was lucky with its owners. It was visited by great artists, described many times and it is appreciated by tourists every year.
Szczawnica is a relatively young town – it received its town rights in the 20th century. It is young but its history is rich. The first written record about it dates back to the 15th century but obviously the settlement had existed much earlier. It was one of many villages similar to small Wallachian ones in the Grajcarek Valley for a long time. Everything changed in the 19th century when mineral waters of Szczawnica underwent analysis and the town went into the hands of Józef Szalay. Szalay used local mineral water springs to develop a resort and to make it similar to famous Austrian and Swiss ones. Another famous owner of the town, Earl Stadnicki, contributed to its development during the Interwar Period.
The town is divided into Upper Szczawnica and Down Szczawnica. The upper part is a spa. There are the most beautiful sites, famous Zdrojowa Street and Dietl’s Square.
You can drink mineral waters of Szczawnica in the beautiful Mineral Water Pump Room over the Springs. Bryjarka (679 m) – a mountain with andesite structure from which mineral waters flow out – rises over the upper part of the town. Mountain trails in the direction of Dzwonkówka (892 m) and Przehyba (1,173 m) – the peaks of the Beskid Sądecki – start in this part of the town. Down Szczawnica is a part which belongs to the Pieniny. It lies by the Grajcarek and the Dunajec. It is a typical tourist place. There is Park Dolny (the Down Park), the Promenade by the Grajcarek and the beginning of Droga Pienińska (the Pieniny Track). There is a finishing line for rafting on the Dunajec and and a starting point for mountain trails into the Little Pieniny and the Pieniny National Park. There is also the down station of Palenica Chairlift.
Both parts create an amazing town – on one hand, beautifully located and, on the other hand, architecturally interesting. It is a resort full of attractions for almost everybody!
Szczawnica A rafting bay by the Dunajec
A walk along Zdrojowa Street is a must while visiting the resort. Together with Dietl’s Square, it creates the heart of the town. On both sides of the street, the oldest buildings of the town have been preserved. 3 Zdrojowa Street is the address of a beautifully renovated villa which is one of the first guest houses in Szczawnica of a high standard. 4 Zdrojowa Street is the address of Adria Villa in which, during the Second World War, Jewish people were hidden. There is also a monument of Henryk Sienkiewicz – a regular visitor of Szczawnica.
Dietl’s Square was designed by Józef Szalay himself and dedicated to his friend Józef Dietl. There is the Doctor’s memorial obelisk. In the centre of the Square there is a bronze monument which represents a woman with a jug of mineral water of Szczawnica. It is surrounded by the most delightful buildings of Szczawnica – old villas designed in a Swiss style. Szalay erected his own Pałac Villa. In nearby ‘Nad Zdrojami’ (Over the Springs) Villa, the Mineral Water Pump Room is located. In ‘Holenderka’ we can visit the Museum of Szczawnica.
Right above the resort part of the town, almost a kilometre from the square, Bryjarka (679 m) stands. It is an extremely interesting mountain which fromally belongs to the Beskid Sądecki but resembles the mountains of the Pieniny. It is also extremely fascinating in a geological way – it is a volcano. On its top there is a cross, similar to the one on Giewont, which is visible from the centre of Szczawnica. From Bryjarka we can reach Bereśnik (843 m) and the Shelter below Bereśnik (843 m) going along the yellow trail. It is only 1.2 km.
Park Górny (the Upper Park) is located behind the Main Mineral Water Pump Room. It was built by Jan Kutscher in the 20’s of the 19th century and extended by Józef Szalay thanks to whom we can admire rare plant species there. There is the neo-gothic Spa Chapel from 1847 and a band shell. We will find there an inhalatorium in which the Polish hid weapons and ammunition during the Second World War.
Dworek Gościnny (the Guest Manor) constitutes the heart of the Upper Park. It is a reconstruction of the building which stood there in the 19th century but at the end of the 20th century it was consumed completely by a fire. It is a place where such personalities as Prus, Asnyk or Konopnicka would meet and discuss various topics and organise poetic evenings. Today, the building partially serves as a hotel and a theatre. Numerous interesting events take place there.
The Church of Saint Adalbert is situated in the centre of Szczawnica, close to Zdrojowa Street. The temple was erected in the 19th century for residents and tourists as the Spa Chapel was too small. When you visit the church, you should pay attention to its polychromy and the pipe organs from 1895. Outside, there are stations of the cross made by Ryszard Hamersk, a local artist. Close to the church, there is the Old Cemetery also called Szalay’s cemetery. We will find there graves from the 19th century including the one of Anna and Artur Werner and also the Chapel of Christ’s Resurrection. In its crypts Józef Szalay and his family were buried.
Park Dolny (the Down Park) was marked out a little bit lower than the Upper One, hence its name. It is located in Główna Street and the place was chosen by Józef Szalay himself. The park was supposed to encompass three springs of mineral water. We can see historic guest houses, springs, a music gazebo and beautiful villas. Maria Villa used to house a treatment centre where the most modern treatments in Szczawnica were conducted, for instance electric baths. The nature of the Down Park delights as well – 100 year old lindens and very rare Douglas firs.
The Chairlift to Palenica (722 m) is another landmark of the place and one of its main attractions. The route is 800 m long and during the ride one may admire the panorama of the town, the Pieniny with characteristic Trzy Korony and the Beskid Sądecki. On the top of Palenica and on Szafranówka, a nearby clearing, in winter a ski station and in summer a slide operate. There are also some catering spots. It is an excellent place to start a hiking trip along a panoramic ridge of the Little Pieniny (a beautiful view of the Tatras). Thanks to the chair lift, we are able to cover a long distance without getting tired.
The Grajcarek is a small and short creek (15 km) which has its beginning in Jaworki where the Biała and the Czarna Woda connect (both of them flow out from the Radziejowa Range in the Beskid Sądecki) and flows into the Dunajec. The promenade is 2 km long and it is especially pleasant in summer when the proximity of a mountain creek refreshes.
Droga Peinińska (the Pieniny Tract) begins where the Promenade finishes – in a place where the Grajcarek flows into the Dunajec. It is one of the most panoramic routes in the Pieniny where the height difference on the distance of 9 km is only 11 m. The elevation is so slight that when we walk there, we do not get tired as we would on mountain trails. The trail leads us along the Dunajec up to the Red Monastery in Slovakia which is also worth visiting. The road is bicycle-friendly. Walking, we can admire monumental limestone rocks which are 300-500 m high. It would be a good idea to stop at numerous information boards concerning the wildlife of the Pieniny or at the information pavilion located right by the tract. There is an exhibition on the local ecosystem and a model of the Pieniny.
Rafting on the Dunajec is the landmark attraction of the Pieniny. We float down the picturesque river on rafts right below Trzy Korony (Three Crowns, 982 m) and Sokolica (747 m). Raftsmen tell a story about the Pieniny and Highlanders from these mountains. The rafting starts in Sromowce Wyżne or Niżne and finishes in Szczawnica or Krościenko by the Dunajec. The tickets are available in many places in Szczawnica, online or at the starting point. We can choose from two routes – a longer or a shorter one. If we leave our car at a car park, we can take a return bus. We may also come back by bike from Szczawnica to Sromowce along the Pieniny Tract. Those in search of adrenaline can go rafting on kayaks or dinghies.
Szczawnica and the Pieniny National Park, the gorge of the Dunajec, Three Crowns and the pine on Sokolica (747 m)…these are the places which come to our mind when we think about the Pieniny. However, the Pieniny and Szczawnica are something more. West of the town a beautiful, interesting, even magical area spreads. Through the Grajcarek Valley a blind road leads us to a gate to the Biała Woda Nature Reserve where cars are not allowed. The road is surrounded by the slopes of the Little Pieniny and the Beskid Sądecki. On these exact slopes Wallachians created their villages, built Orthodox churches, grazed sheep and lived as well as they could. Today the area is not as often visited by tourists as the Central Pieniny (the area under the protection of the Pieniny National Park) but definitely worth seeing.
Józef Nyka, an author of a very good guide about the Pieniny wrote that if someone wants to treat mountains as an exhibit in a museum, they should go to Trzy Korony, stand on their top for a while looking at the panorama in the crowds of people. But if someone wants to breathe in fresh, mountain air and feel the space of pastures, they should go into the Little Pieniny.
There are even fewer tourists than on the slopes of the Beskid Sądecki which descend to the Grajcarek valley. At present, residential buildings are located in the valley, in Szlachtowa and Jaworki. However, a bit higher the heritage of Ruthenians who were deported from these areas after the Second World War, is still visible. Breathtaking views, mountains, nature reserves and tumultuous history – east of Szczawnica you will find everything that you look for. In addition to that, there is unspoiled tranquillity.
Even though the Museum is situated far from the centre of Szczawnica, in Szlachtowa, it is really worth visiting. You will see exhibitions on the folklore of the Pieniny with beautiful costumes and objects which acquaint us with professions or customs of people who inhabited this region. The exhibition which presents the role of the Dunajec in the life of Highlanders, the exhibition which shows the whole region and the one which displays local legends are also fascinating.
The former Orthodox Church of the Protection of Mother of God (today it is the Catholic Church of Mother of God the Mediatrix of all Graces) is the most distinguishing place in Szlachtowa. It was erected at the turn of the 20th century, at the time when this area was a part of Shlakhtov Ruthenia and Lemko people inhabited these lands. Its construction lasted almost 20 years due to high expenses. From the very beginning, the dome construction stood out from among Lemko houses – after all, religious people built it to the praise of God. Inside, we can admire the decorative polychromy and frescos. The iconostasis, made on canvas not on wood, as in the case of the majority of this type of temples, is also interesting. The figures presented on it are wearing Polish costumes and their faces resemble the faces of Lemko people who lived in the Pieniny.
The Orthodox Church of Saint John Chrysostom in Jaworki serves as a Catholic church at present. It ceased to be a Greek Catholic church after the resettlement of Ruthenians after the Second World War. It was erected in 1798 when Jaworki and the neighbouring areas were under Austrian rule. That is why the church was built in Josephine style based on Austrian patterns which outline the plan and mass of the construction and even its exteriors. It follows a baroque style with classical elements. The most precious part of the church is the iconostasis from the 18th century and the painting of Saint John the Evangelist. Not only parishioners but also…bats took a liking to the church. The charming lesser horseshoe bat has chosen its roof for its colony.
Muzyczna Owczarnia (Music Sheepfold) is a cult place in the vicinity known nationwide. This amazing music club was created by Wieńczysław Kołodziejski. At the end of the 20th century, the owner bought an old sheepfold and moved it from pastures to Biała Woda, to his land. He created a concert venue where a lot of concerts take place and a small gallery. Since the place was founded, plenty of more or less popular artists have performed in the place. Music workshops are organised there as well.
The Homole Canyon is probably the most famous place in the Little Pieniny and, for sure, it is the most commonly visited one. Not without a reason it became a nature reserve. Homole is a deep canyon with a length of 800 m and the Kamionka Creek flows through it. Rocks out of which it is formed are the most beautiful. There are vertical walls of colourful limestone which reach the height of even 120 m! In a lot of places limestone has fanciful shapes. These very walls are under protection as a precious element of inanimate nature. However, the wildlife in the place is diverse too. You will see a lot of protected species – the martagon lily, the common yew, and numerous kinds of moss and lichen. The canyon is home to the Eurasian
Muzyczna Owczarnia in Jaworki
The Homole Canyon Biała Woda
eagle-owl, the common kestrel or the fire salamander. The area of the reserve includes Dubantowska Clearing with the legendary rocks – Czajkowska Rock and Kamienne Księgi (Stone Books). In the second one the fate of the world is supposed to be written but no one is able to read it. We should remember the canyon is a strict reserve – you are allowed to walk only on the designated path marked as the green trail.
Biała Woda Reserve is the second after the Homole Canyon nature reserve in the Little Pieniny (in total there are 4 of them). The area which comprises a group of beautiful limestone with irregular shapes was taken under
protection in 1963. The rocks which rise over Biała Woda create picturesque scenery. Smolegowa Skała (715 m) definitely is the most distinguishing one as it resembles a dinosaur. On its northern wall there are four positions of relic high elevation plants. They have managed to survive here since the last glaciation due to its location out of the reach of people. A walk across the reserve is a great option for those who want to see the nature of the Pieniny but do not enjoy climbing. The trail is marked yellow, it is almost flat and 1.6 km long. On return, you can take the same path or go towards the Rozdziela Pass (803 m) along the yellow trail and further along the blue trail to Wysoka (1,050 m) where the green trail leading through the Homole Canyon will take us to Jaworki.
Woda Nature Reserve
Pieniny National Park lies right over the border of Szczawnica Commune. However, the town constitutes a great starting point for a trip to Sokolica (747 m) and Trzy Korony (982 m). It would be best to follow the blue trail which initially leads along the Pieniny Tract. Behind Orlica Shelter, you need to cross the Dunajec on a raft. On the other side of the river a demanding climb to Sokolica (747 m) awaits us. The trail leads us further through the Pieninki. When we reach Bajkowy Groń, we go towards Pieniński Castle and further to Trzy Korony (982 m). From
the top, we go down to the Szopka Pass called by highlanders the ‘Thanks God’ Pass (the name would seem just right to anyone who gets there from the side of Sromowce – ‘thanks God it’s over’ just flies out). From the pass, we can go down along the yellow trail to Krościenko and return to Szczawnica by bus (then we cover the distance of 11.5 km) or also along the yellow trail to Sromowce Niżne and from there by the red trail (the Pieniny Tract) to Szczawnica (the covered distance is 21 km).
The Little Pieniny are less popular than Pieniny National Park, nevertheless, they are worth visiting as they offer beautiful panoramas. The long-distance blue trail runs through them (it starts in Tarnów and finishes in the Beskid Sądecki). We start our hike by the Dunajec, nearby Orlica Shelter. Walking along the border of the country, we get to Szafranówka Clearing (742 m) – the yellow trail from the centre of Szczawnica leads there as well. It goes through Palenica (722 m) and is a good option to reach the Little Pieniny. You can facilitate your hike going up by the chairlift to Palenica. The blue trail leads further along the border to the foot of Huściowa (747 m) and there connects with the yellow one which goes from Szlachtowa (this is another easy trail leading to the ridge of the Little Pieniny). Below Wysoki Wierch (898 m) the yellow trail
diverges to the south, leads through Wysoki Wierch and descends to Slovakia to the Pod Tokarnią Pass (720 m). It is a good idea to reach Wysoki Wierch and go down to the east following blue signs. After 1.5 km we reach Durbaszka (934 m) below which there is a shelter. We will get to Jaworki from Durbaszka going down along a road but it's worth going further. The blue trail leads to Wysoka (1,050 m) – the highest peak of the Pieniny. From Wysoka we go down along the green trail to Jaworki through the Homole Canyon. Following the blue signs, we will reach the Rozdziela Pass (803 m) – the border between the Pieniny and the Beskid Sądecki. From the pass, we may descend to Jaworki along the yellow trail leading through Biała Woda Nature Reserve. We can take a local bus on the way back from Jaworki to Szczawnica.
PRZEHYBA (1,173 M) – RADZIEJOWA (1,266 M) – SZLACHTOWA
Szczawnica constitutes a great starting point if you wish to reach the highest peak of the Beskid Sądecki – Radziejowa (1,266 m). We set out from Szczawnica to Przehyba (1,173 m). We can choose from two trails – the blue one which goes past Zaskalnik Waterfall or the green one which leads through Kuni Wierch (982 m). Both of them meet below Czeremcha and lead to the Shelter on Przehyba (1,150 m). At the shelter we change the trail for the red one. We will get to Radziejowa (1,266 m) going along the Main Beskid Trail. Descending Radziejowa, below Wielki Rogacz (1,182 m) we change the trail for the blue one. After the distance of 1.5 km we come back to the red trail on Litawcowa Clearing. We go down to Jaworki along a panoramic route across former Ruthenian meadows. Close to the end, we go past Bazaltowa Skałka. We may come back to Szczawnica by local bus. The route covers a distance of 25 km.
(982 M)
The yellow trail which leads to Palenica from the Centre of Szczawnica goes through the Beskid Sądecki and ends (or starts) in the Island Beskids on Modyń (1,029 m). Its part in the Beskid Sądecki is a great proposition for a trip into the mountains. We set out in the upper part of Szczawnica and we reach towering over the town Bryjarka (679 m). From there, we go towards Pod Bereśniakiem Shelter (843 m). Further, the trail leads us to Dzwonkówka (982 m) where it crosses with the red Main Beskid Trail – following it, we will reach Przehyba (1,173 m) and Radziejowa (1,266 m) or we will descend to Krościenko. From Dzwonkówka we head for Koziarz (943 m) where we will find a panoramic tower. From the top of Koziarz, we go down along a panoramic route to Łącko. From Łącko to Szczawnica we come back by bus. The route covers a distance of 21 km.
VeloDunajec is a cycling path which leads along the Dunajec from Zakopane to Wietrzychowice. It covers a distance of 240 km in total and its most beautiful section leads through the Pieniny, the Dunajec Gorge and connects with the Pieniny Tract. It is a distance of 10 km and the route is easy and beautiful (the elevation difference is only 11 m). We set out from Szczawnica and we reach the Red Monastery in Slovakia. We can rent a bike, give it back in Sromowce and come back to Szczawnica on a dinghy, a kayak or a raft.
The Little Pieniny will be perfect for those who seek a more demanding route. Even though there are no designated routes for cyclists, one can use roads and walking trails. Then, obviously we must pay special attention to hikers. We can commence the trip in Jaworki and ride up to Durbaszka (934 m) along a road to the shelter. From there we go along the ridge of the Little Pieniny below Wysoka (1,050 m) –it is impossible to ride up to the top of it – or to Palenica. A ride down from Palenica is difficult, hence, an earlier ride down to Szlachtowa should be considered (from below Wysoki Wierch).
If going down the Dunajec on a raft is too calm, one may choose a dinghy or a kayak! The canyon of the Dunajec in the Pieniny is a picturesque place, one of the most beautiful canyons in Poland so it is a great idea to watch it from water. We can start rafting in various places – in Sromowce Niżne, Sromowce Wyżne and even in Szczawnica. After rafting, you will be taken by organisers to the starting point.
Palenica is a mountain adored by tourists. Breathtaking views spread from it, interesting trails and a chairlift lead to it. It can constitute a starting point for various trips but we can also enjoy staying on its top. Fans of speed will be delighted as there is a gravity toboggan run open in summer. Toboggans are placed on the run so we can enjoy a fast and safe ride.
The centre ‘Arena Narciarska Jaworki-Homole’ is located in a picturesque corner of the commune, at the edge of the Pieniny and the Beskid Sądecki. The ski station offers 6 slopes of various difficulty dedicated to children, beginners or professionals. There is a free-ride route for fans of extreme skiing. All the slopes are 3,600 m long.
Palenica Ski Station offers a few runs of various difficulty located on the slopes of Palenica and Szafranówka in the Little Pieniny. The pistes are from 400 to 1,800 m long and one of them is dedicated to beginners. Skiers can take advantage of the chairlift to Palenica and T-bar lifts located on Szafranówka Clearing.
The Pieniny Mountains look magical in winter. It’s best to look at them from a sleigh as you move across snow. A sleigh ride with horses is an attraction for the whole family. The campfire is an integral part of such a ride. In the evening, torches add to the charm of a trip after which one can feast in a regional restaurant. Sleigh rides in Biała Woda Nature Reserve are organised by Andrzej Mos Biała Woda Tourist Farm. Pienińskie Centrum Turystyki (the Pieniny Tourist Centre) will take you for a ride to Sewerynówka.
Dog sledding in the Pieniny is organised by a company from nearby Orava – ‘Psy na Biegunach’. It is an amazing adventure either for adults or children, for everybody who loves speed and adrenaline. Together with delightful dogs we set off to the most remote corners of the commune. The event starts with greeting the dogs and preparing them for a ride. Everything lasts 1.5 h and later a campfire may be made. Dog sledding at night would be an exciting adventure! Such rides are organised for groups of at least 10 people.
The project ‘The support of small and medium-sized enterprises which operate in tourism and increasing the recognisability of Lesser Poland as a tourist economic brand’ (no RPMP.03.03.01-12-0593/18) co-funded by the European Union as a part of the Regional Operational Programme of Lesser Poland for the years 2014 – 2020.
the Foundation for the Development of Regions www.f-rr.org
the Association of Polish Spa Communities www.sgurp.pl
The project is co-funded by the Regional Operational Programme of Lesser Poland for the years 2014 – 2020. The support of small and medium-sized enterprises which operate in tourism and increasing the recognisability of Lesser Poland as a tourist economic brand.