KLIMEK
A GUEST HOUSE AND A RESTAURANT MUSZYNA
The project is co-funded by the Regional Operational Programme of Lesser Poland for the years 2014 – 2020. The support of small and medium-sized enterprises which operate in tourism and increasing the recognisability of Lesser Poland as a tourist economic brand.
GUEST HOUSE
The project ‘The support of small and medium-sized enterprises which operate in tourism and increasing the recognisability of Lesser Poland as a tourist economic brand’ (no RPMP.03.03.01-12-0593/18) cofunded by the European Union as a part of the Regional Operational Programme of Lesser Poland for the years 2014 – 2020.
The Foundation for the Development of Regions
www.f-rr.org
Realization: Digital Places Multimedia Publishing
www.digitalplaces.pl
Kraszewskiego 1/406
33-380 Krynica-Zdrój
The Association of Polish Spa Communities
www.sgurp.pl
Art Manager: Konrad Rogoziński
Text: Maria Kościelniak
Translation: Ewelina Natanek-Rogozińska
Proofreading: Agata Kościelniak
Design: Klaudia Stochmal
Typesetting: Klaudia Stochmal
Photographies: © Konrad Rogoziński / DigitalPlaces.pl
Apart from: Front cover, p 2 i 3, © Łukasz Świętach
In the Land of Gentleness
Muszyna is a small but definitely charming town located almost at the end of Poland…or maybe at the beginning? It was called the Land of Gentleness by poets and utterly deserves the name as it is situated in the beautiful valley of the Poprad River which, in this place, meanders between mountains marking the border between Poland and Slovakia. The Beskid Sądecki and the Jaworzyna
Krynicka Range tower over it. The town and villages which surround it climb mountain slopes. Apart from a great location, Muszyna can boast of interesting history – after all it was a part of the Muszyna State. It offers a number of attractions – old historic sites and wonderful gardens. Muszyna also tempts with culture as Highlander, Slavic and Lemko traditions are combined there.
Allegedly, angels revel in the forests and on the clearings which surround Muszyna. From one Orthodox church to another one. From a birch to a fir tree. In the villages you may hear old legends about witches, brigands and devils. In Złockie, by the Złocki Stream (‘złoty’ means golden in Polish) people sometimes talk about gold which was mentioned by Jan Długosz – a remarkable Polish chronicler. However, gold is not the biggest treasure and the most interesting stories are not about witches. The real treasure of Muszyna and Złockie is the culture, traditions and the cuisine of Lemko people who used to inhabit this land.
Who are Lemko people?
Who were those legendary, a bit mysterious people? We tend to speak about them in the past tense, we mention them as historical figures from the distant past. Lemkos are people who used to dwell in this area for hundreds of years and they would still live there but for the cruel events which made them leave their homes.
There are numerous theories on their origin but the most common one says that they came from Wallachians who had come to the area of the Polish Carpathians in the 14th and 15th century. They had their own culture, language
and religion. Moreover, they were able to live and work in difficult, mountainous conditions. With time, Wallachians were called Lemkos – the name was derived from ‘łem’ which was a word they used frequently. They were an ethnic group which stood out against the Polish who also lived there. Therefore, after the Second World War it was decided that they should be resettled. During a few resettlement operations almost all Lemko people were deported. They left stories, Orthodox churches and traditions behind. The traditions are well visible in the local cuisine.
Lemko cuisine
Lemko cuisine is as simple as the people who created it. Lemkos, either those from the Beskid Sądecki or the Low Beskids, lived in the mountains so they had to face harsh weather conditions, severe winters, short vegetation periods and barren soil. The most often not very demanding vegetables were grown such as potatoes, swedes or beetroots or vegetables which were easy to store, for instance, beans or cabbage which later on was pickled. In the season fruit such as plums or apples or the treasures of
the forest that is mushrooms, herbs, raspberries or cowberries were also used in the process of cooking. Lemko people were shepherds, they grazed their sheep on the meadows of the Beskids, so they could take advantage of sheep milk and sheep cheeses or mutton. However, meat was eaten only on special days, on a daily basis they ate dishes based on flour and grouts. Lemko cuisine is simple but delicious and filling.
Strakija – an expert on Lemko cuisine
Strakija, a restaurant located in a beautiful area, at the foot of the Beskid Sądecki, by the Złockie Stream, specialises in Lemko dishes. The restaurant successfully draws from traditional recipes and creates its menu in the spirit of the tradition of the region. They use products, which are healthy, full of flavours and aromas, from local suppliers such as potatoes, cabbage, mutton, game, mushrooms, cowberries, herbs and sheep cheese. The chefs of Strakija use simple ingredients and transform them into dishes which smell of the history and taste of the region. Sitting at the table and eating the dishes which have mysterious and intriguing names you can find yourself in a kitchen of a Lemko chyża (cottage), feel the warmth of a tiled stove and smell freshly baked cake. On warm days, you can move to a summer garden and relish the dishes admiring the mountains. Such surroundings make dishes taste even better.
Zlepieńce, bałamuty and haluszki
What can we eat at Strakija then? The menu is rich and diverse. Among starters we will find such delicacies as liver with apples, raspberry sauce and potato pancakes, horse meat tartare or red pine mushrooms on butter. Sounds sophisticated and this is just the beginning! If we feel like eating soup, we can choose from żurek (soup made from fermented rye flour) cooked on red pine mushroom broth called ‘poliwka’, ‘warianka’ – Lemko soup on sauerkraut with potatoes, beetroot soup made on natural leaven served with pancake rolls or traditional broth. The main dishes include szpykaczka with haluszki (pork goulash with noodles made of grated and cooked potatoes), ‘holubcy’ (cabbage rolls with buckwheat and grated potatoes), ‘dyruny’ (potato pancakes with pork goulash), ‘kresowe hryczaniki’ (cutlets made of buckwheat groats served with mushroom sauce) and ‘zlepieńce’ (Lemko dumplings) – the names are real tongue twisters. Even though they sound exotic, they are really worth trying as they come from the local cuisine. The menu also includes more popular dishes such as trout fried in butter with herbs, roasted deer, wild boar stew or a classical pork chop. For dessert, one may choose knedle (a kind of dumplings) with plums, chocolate souffle or apple pie served hot. Strakija offers pizza as well – either classical ones or with red pine mushrooms or ‘homiłki’ (Lemko cheese balls). All delicacies can be enriched with regional beers – there are 11 kinds of them!
Vegan and vegetarian flavours
The cuisine of the people from the mountains is frequently a vegetarian one. The area of the Beskid Sądecki was a poor region for a long time. People could not afford meat and it was treated as the most sophisticated delicacy served only on special occasions. On a daily basis people ate potato noodles, vegetable soups or dumplings. Haluszki are noodles made of grated and cooked
potatoes, holubcy are cabbage rolls with buckwheat and grated potatoes and vegetables, bałamuty are dumplings with bryndza (sheep cheese). There are various kinds of dumplings served in Strakija perfect for vegetarians –with cabbage, mushrooms or cheese. Those who refrain from eating meat will be also delighted with Baca’s Salad with grilled homiłki.
Celebrations in Strakija
If you want to organise a small party of up to 30 guests, Strakija is the perfect place. A baptism or communion reception, a business meeting or a business lunch, an anniversary party in a stylish restaurant will be an unforgettable event. The chef will take care of flavours and
well-qualified staff of guests’ well-being. Every event is tailored to individual requirements and all details are arranged beforehand so that a special day goes smoothly in accordance with guests’ expectations.
Klimek Guest House
Strakija Restaurant operates by Klimek Guest House and it is open to either hotel or outside guests. The guest house is a beautifully located, 4-star facility ideal for those who, apart from good food, seek relaxation in the mountains. Such a location enables resting and nearby Muszyna will provide a wide selection of attractions. The guest house offers comfortable 1-, 2-, 3-person rooms all of which have a terrace or a balcony from which one may admire views of the Beskids. The facility is animal-friendly. Guests can take advantage of a relaxation zone with a soothing biosauna, a beneficial ice therapy, heat recliners and an exotic shower with relaxational music.
