Krabi Magazine Feb 2013

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February 2013 Issue 84

Health & Happiness We try them on for size

Getting Inked Thai-style Tats.

Frog Ladies Love them or loathe them?

News, Eating, Travel, Activities, Reviews, Sport, Nature




THAI ISLAND DREAM ESTATE L U X U RY BEACHFRONT PROPERTIES

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Klong Nin beach - Koh Lanta Yai

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Welcome to Krabi

February 2013– ISSUE 84 EDITOR: Paul Stretton krabimagazineeditor@gmail.com - 087 2664876 DIRECTOR Pamela Huxley krabimagazinemarketing@gmail.com - 088 4512178 MARKETING Zina krabimagazinemedia@gmail.com - 080 7705734 POST-PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR: Thomas Gennaro krabimagazine@gmail.com - 089 9085990 ART GROUP

Graphic Director: Nattapat Sunthonphuriwat [Pat®] tonidesign@gmail.com - 089 7727858

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS

Paul Stretton, Pamela Huxley, Punch Whitfield, Ton Company, Daniel Docto, Emily Huang-Ramirez, Suzi Hall, Joe Alonzo, Thai Natural Acupuncture, Andy Chan, Adam Butler, Jeffrey Dietrich, Dararai

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While great care has been taken in the receipt and handling of material, production and accuracy in this magazine, the publisher will not accept any responsibility for any errors, loss or omissions which may occur. The information and stories published are those of the writers and contributors, and do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher or the editor. The description of properties, the contents, whereabouts and price are given in this magazine as a guide only. Please request further details from the advertiser and seek legal advice before entering into any contract to purchase. All information and prices were correct at the time of going to press.

cover photo by Adam Butler www.geckophoto.com

It’s generally at this time of year that our New Year’s resolutions begin to wane, am I correct? All the promises to ourselves and our loved/tolerated ones of quitting things, tightening other things up and letting even more things go completely to pot, seem to be less appealing now that the festivities are over and we come back to Earth with a proverbial bump. Here at KM Towers we are feeling it, I can tell you. After our Xmas/New Year binge, the place looked like The Hangover Part Something had been filmed in it. It’s taken Mrs. Scroggins - our ever loyal and cleaning woman of limited olfactory perception - the best part of the month to get my executive suite back to it’s original spendour. The stale odour of Jack Daniels continues to hang in the air, though, and something is still moving under the carpet in the corner. Although that might just be Colin. So we decided to start off with a clean slate. Get our bodies and minds into some semblance of healthy normality and crack open a window. The end result of this is a healthy issue of Krabi Magazine to inspire, educate and inform you out there in reader-land on our new nourished lifestyles. We sent Emily out with a camera, notepad any canvas bag to track down the fabled hydroponic garden that has been long whispered about but, as yet, never proven to our ears, eyes and fingernails. She actually found it and came back all wide-eyed, hopped up on chlorophyll and yelling “Arugula - they have arugula!” over and over. We managed to wrestle her to the ground and locked her in the furnace room until her vitamin B6 levels returned to normal and she started making some sense. Her inane babblings are on Page 38. If you fancy some phys-ed, with a difference, Thailand is the place to be. Here, you don’t even need footwear to get out and about. Joe Alonzo has been barefoot running for a while now and has started to see and feel the benefits of going “naked”. We asked him to watch out for glass, but tell us all about it on Page 56. Sticking with the beach for a bit, we also asked Suzi Hall on Lanta for some of her fitness tips, and boy - what a response! She grabbed the nearest pro photographer and headed on down to the beach at sunset to stretch, lunge, flip and jiggle herself in the name of healthy journalism. If you want to workout with zero equipment and very little time - read all about it on Page 76. Tattoos are as popular as ever it seems, judging by the ink strutting around town. A lot of peeps come over to Thailand to get them done the traditional way - with a pointy stick. Ok, it’s a sharp piece of bamboo, but it’s a tradition that harks back for generations. After Emily calmed down, we let her loose to investigate the “Bamboo Tattoo” of Thailand, and she got her nose into a great story. Part 1 on Page 44. More needling comes in the form of acupuncture - something that has been sorely(!) lacking in the area for some time now. We hunted down a trio that have started up a clinic right here in Ao Nang, called Thai Natural Acupuncture. After a couple of sessions ourselves, we were suitably impressed with the results and thought we should ask them to explain themselves on Page 43. The usual sections are all here too. Our Meet the Locals piece continues with local philanthropist Khun Suwat Hannarong who has been here for 30 years and remembers seeing tigers in his back garden. Seriously. We get on our high horse again and vent about things that bug us - just because it’s our magazine and we can if we want to. Viewpoint this month is on Page 25. We have news, reviews, places to eat, what to do, frog ladies and a cat in a basket. To finish, we even threw in some puzzles right at the back for you, we are that good. Right, enough from me. I don’t think that’s Colin under the carpet in the corner after all, and it’s edging closer to the minibar. Must go and find my rubber mallet. Enjoy!

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Contents issue 84

February 2013 A WINDOW ON KRABI

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Highlights of this amazing province: town to temples, beaches to Islands, natural hotspots to cultural places.

TRY YOUR THAI

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Stop speaking slowly and loudly to the Thais - try out these handy

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phrases to impress your friends instead.

TOP 10 ACTIVITIES

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Krabi Province is a haven for sun worshippers and pleasure seekers and is also one of the world’s best destinations for activities such as rock-climbing, scuba diving and kayaking.

HOTEL PR NEWS

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Brands, products and services from our sponsoring hotels.

THE PULSE

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Some local and International things of interest happening now.

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VIEWPOINT 25 This month, we moan about Speedos.

TRAVEL ADVICE

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Timetables, prices and general good advice on getting here and getting away again

THAI CUSTOMS

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There are some pretty big “Dos” and “Most Definitely Do Nots” here, and it pays to tell them apart...

EATING GUIDE

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A selection of great places to go to eat and drink in the region. We’ve tested them ourselves, so we know. Yes, we do.

Going green

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Hydroponics, grown-up style. Not what you’re thinking. Really.

MEET THE LOCALS

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This month we have a pow-wow with Mr. Suwat Hannarong. You’ll never guess what he invented. No, you won’t.

Thai Natural Acupuncture

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Instead of a pill for your ills, try something different. We did, and slap

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my innards and call me Bernard - it worked!

The search for magic ink - part 1

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Emily delved into the dark underworld of bamboo tattoos in search of the mysterious and magical. She hasn’t come back yet.

Get your move on

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Fight for your right to...well, fight. Kru Doc takes a look at some of the moves that make Muay Thai what it is. Cruncheroony.

Into the blue

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Our underwater section with news of the new Krabi wrecks, tide table

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and more.


Contents issue 84 HOLIDAY READS

February 2013 55

There can be fewer finer things in life than to kick back with a good book. So we take a quick look at some reads to keep you riveted on those long days on the beach.

NAkedness 56 Got your attention now, have I? Good. That will be all.

Secret Corner

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Suzi Hall finds an ice-cream place on Lanta and claimed it as a “Secret Corner” and needed to be “investigated thoroughly”. Chancer.

Restaurant Review

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We take our pencils, pads and empty tummies to Cleopatra to see what they could do about it.

The hidden lagoon

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A gentle activity over on Railay thats a great afternoon out, with a moderate chance of death.

KOH LANTA

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Get the most out of Koh Lanta. Highlights, maps, reviews and articles: Koh Lanta Highlights: Lanta Features Activities: What to do on the paradisiacal isle. Yes, that is a word Eating Guide: A guide to the best eats on the island Healthy Holidays: Feel the burn with some beach-based exercises

KOH JUM

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Where? Exactly. That’s why we’re here. Getting There: Well, do you know?

REAL ESTATE

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Purchasing and making real estate investments made simple with Krabi Magazine. Architect Tips: Local architects Ton Company produce stunning homes Legal Matters: Taking a look at the “Tabien Baan”, or “House Book”.

The Frog ladies

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These woman used to be actual frogs! No, I’m serious! Really!

Praying for rain

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Sticking a cat in a basket.

RUSSIAN SECTION

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4 pages of information in the Russian Language

JUST FOR FUN

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Krabi Magazine Around the World: We make it all the way somewhere else entirely. Puzzled: A crossword with the added bonus of some number things.

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Window the beaches

Ao Nang, at 20km from Krabi Town, is the most developed of Krabi’s beaches, a long stretch of white sandy beach with limestone mountains as a backdrop. It has a wide range of accommodation and services and the main shopping street features restaurants, bars, pubs, souvenir shops, dive centers and tour agencies, massage centers and spas. This is the hub from which to plan your trip at sea and to the nearby islands on a typical longtail boat. Noppharat Thara beach, just around the corner from Ao Nang, is 3km long yet still undeveloped, with only a few resorts and bars. Attractive because of its natural setting, this is where local youngsters and families gather at sunset and at weekends. Savour some local Muslim snacks at the beach stalls, or fill yourself with seafood in the local restaurants at the very end of the beach, near the Noppharat Thara National Park headquarters. At low tide, walk out together with millions of small crabs on the sandy pathways to the small islands near the beach. Railay beaches are split and separated from Krabi and Ao Nang by monumental limestone mountains. Railay has two sides, east and west, and its settings are simply marvelous: crystal clear waters, pure sandy beaches, lush mountains, rocky islands emerging from the sea. Railay can only be reached by boat, a 15 minutes ride from Ao Nang or 30 minutes from Krabi Town. Enjoy a cocktail in one of the beach bars, visit the Phranang Cave, challenge yourself on a rock climbing course, hike the limestone massif to a lagoon and a viewpoint, or simply chill out. Neighbouring Tonsai lies at the base of a cliff that divides it form Railay

West. Tonsai has a shallow beach with slow gradients out to sea which is profoundly affected by the tide. Klong Muang beach is a further 20km away from Ao Nang; it is the up-market side of Krabi, the place to be if you are after a peaceful holiday. Catering to families and couples, it is here that you really get the so deserved repose, surrounded by pristine nature. Tubkaek beach is another real place to hide away; long, clean and peaceful, the area has breathtaking views over Koh Hong islands archipelago, and charming sunsets. From there you can venture inside the National Park and try a walking trail to a viewpoint and a waterfall. Koh Lanta beaches have a wide selection of resorts for all tastes and pockets. Lanta Yai island has long stretches of gleaming white sandy beaches and shallow emerald waters. Lined with tropical vegetation, a private spot is never more than a short walk away on a southern beach at Lanta Yai.

NATURAL HOTSPOTS Limestone mountains or karsts characterize most of the inland Krabi area, the most spectacular being the massifs of Sai Tai. Susaan Hoi is a 40 million year-old seashell cemetery; once a large swamp where freshwater crustaceans proliferated, today home to 40 centimeter thick, shell encrusted limestone slabs, a geological uniqueness not far from Ao Nang. One must find a broken edge to see the shells clearly, since all of those on the upper surface have been walked on and worn down by the elements and are hard to identify. Khao Phanom Bencha National Park, at 20km from Krabi Town, comprises waterfalls, streams, lush forests and caves. It is home to all kind of flora and wildlife and to the highest mountain in the region from which it takes the name. One of the features of the park is Huay Toh Waterfall where water runs down onto several huge pools. Tarnbok Khoranee National Park, in the north of the region, consists of limestone mountains, verdant tropical forest, caves and beautiful islands. It is well known for its different species of trees growing around a large natural


on krabi crystal clear pool, and for the hundreds of birds’ species. Phi Hua Toh Cave, in the nearby Bor Thor area, surrounded by mangrove swamps and reachable by boat or kayak, is where to see pre-historic rock paintings depicting animals and humans. Sa Morakot, the Emerald Pool, is a natural wonder: a pond of turquoise water with an average temperature of 30-40C, fed by a hot spring in the middle of the jungle. Hot Springs of Klong Thom, natural Jacuzzis in which to lift away tensions and relieve body and mind with the mineral enriched waters falling into rocky ponds.

THE ISLANDS Hop on or hire a longtail, the local wooden boats with their picturesque prows. Sail away to Koh Poda, surrounded by turquoise waters, or to Koh Kai, shaped as a chicken and therefore called the Chicken Island, from where a walk on a sandy pathway connects it to Koh Tub. Make a longtail boat or speedboat trip to the Koh Hong archipelago, a group of limestone islands with hidden caves and lagoons perfect for kayaking or snorkeling. Join an organized tour to amazing Koh Phi Phi islands, full of marvelous bays, limestone cliffs, waters rich in marine life, caves where swallow nests are harvested, and much more. Visit Koh Jum and Koh Siboya, small, unspoiled tropical hide-away that have a unique atmosphere. These islands give visitors the time to relax and recharge their batteries. Or venture out on Koh Lanta, the developing island at the southern end of the province home to sea gypsies communities, where you will meet nature and tradition. A National Park area that comprises many different islands surrounded by coral reefs, such as Koh Ngai and remote Koh Rok.

THE CULTURE

Ban Natin, on the way from Ao Nang to Klong Muang, is the place to experience the peaceful lifestyle of the local Muslim community. Home accommodation is available, or you can simply make a stopover and see the production of handmade products such as batik paintings, pineapple-fiber paper and coconut shell carving. Wat Klong Thom Museum features various kinds of beads, stone tools, and stone and earthen ornaments in animal shapes of approximately 5,000 years old, uncovered during archeological excavations. Fire dancing, part of the beach culture, is a popular evening activity on the beaches of Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi, performed by acrobatic boys who swing burning torches around their bodies, creating sparkling artistic pictures. Ban Sang-Ka-U is a sea gypsy’s settlement in southeast Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan of traditional v Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fast-developing island.

THE TOWN Small, charming, silent at times, nice for a day’s walking tour. Krabi Town is full of old buildings, bars and restaurants, local exotic marketplaces and food stalls at the old Chao Fa pier where to sample the local food. The Krabi motto is: “lively town, lovely people”; Krabi’s simple people are definitely proud of their town and of their warm and generous character. Hop on a longtail boat at Chao Fa pier and visit Khao Kanab Nam, the unique pair of hills facing each other on the opposite banks of the Krabi River, symbols of the town; or embark on a journey to Koh Klang, an island next to town on the mouth of the river, where you will experience lives lived by the local fishing communities; or charter a boatman for a visit to the mangrove backwaters.


Try your

Thai

Y

by Emily Huang-Ramirez

ou’ve made it. You’ve arrived in Thailand and are getting along with a few basic phrases and a big smile. But as any traveler or expatriate knows, language is the key to really connecting and experiencing what a foreign country has to offer. If you can’t get past Sawadee and Krup Khun Ka/Krup, you begin to see the great hindrance that it can be. The Thai language, like any language, can be a sensitive one. There are a lot of innuendos and underlying meanings that don’t directly translate. Hell, some things don’t translate at all. The worst. The squiggles on the menu may as well be Ancient Sanskrit, as far as you know. And then there are tones. Again, the worst. Inexperience with a tonal language is akin to walking a tightrope – a slight misstep may have you plummeting into an insult of the highest degree, while you thought you were just being cheeky cute. But being the caring individuals that we are here at KM, we have brought you a simple solution: Alongkorn Language School (ALS). This is us handing you a bridge, now get over it! Mr. Alongkorn – or Khun Korn – has been closing the language gap for both foreigners and Thais for over 30 years. He has taught in both government secondary schools and in language schools, including three years abroad at the Australian Thai Language Center. As a native Thai speaker also fluent in English, Khun Korn has the ability to teach Thai anywhere from a basic conversational level, up to reading, writing and speaking fluently.

I sat in on a session one day and immediately noticed the level of interaction between teacher and students and the small class size; a maximum of six students are allowed in each class. Khun Korn created and developed all of his curriculums to include a high level of participation – not solely restricted to question-and-answer but activities and games as well - in order to facilitate retention and application. Workbooks and lessons use images, texts and sound designed to teach Thai intuitively from day one. Additionally, classes incorporate lessons on Thai history, customs and culture, making for a dynamic course. It also helps that Khun Korn puts on a pair of charmy pants everyday and eats a hearty breakfast probably eats rice infused with baby laughter.

He’s a charismatic guy. There are a variety of curriculums to meet varying needs, making learning Thai here very accommodating, not to mention the air-conditioned classrooms. Students can take a customized approach to learning Thai which accommodates schedules, length of stay in Thailand, families wanting to learn together, young students, specific needs such as business language, and private tutoring, amongst other things. And if you are planning an extended stay, ALS also assists students by simplifying the Education Visa process, which is a very nice bonus. What I particularly like about ALS is Khun Korn’s standard for instruction. He’s been teaching for quite some time but he is also professionally trained to do so, and so are his two additional instructors at ALS. The school is approved by the Ministry of Education, so students are assured that not just any native Thai or English speaker is standing up front, regurgitating content from a language textbook. So, if you have an interest in immersing and taking your experience in Thailand to the next level, I highly suggest you check out ALS. In the very least, it’ll lessen the shock the next time someone says “green pumpkin” to you in Thai. Cheers and happy learning!

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Krabi is well-used to foreigners and most of the Thai people that deal with tourists on a daily basis will have a smattering of English to get by. The employees at your resort, for example. But if you want to try out a little of their own language, you will be rewarded by even bigger smiles and even the odd giggle. The Thais really do appreciate you making an effort to speak their language and just the odd word here and there can make all the difference in your relationships with them.

Hello (male speaker)........................................................................... “Sawadee Krap” Hello (female speaker).......................................................................... “Sawadee Kaa” How are you?...................................................................................... “Sabai Dee Mai?” I’m fine........................................................................................................... “Sabai Dee” How much is this?................................................................................ “A Nee Tao Rai?” What is this?..................................................................................................“Nee a Rai?” Yes............................................................................................................................. “Chai” No..................................................................................................................... “Mai Chai” Sorry/Excuse me.............................................................................................“Kor Toht” I can’t speak Thai................................................................. “Poot Passa Thai Mai Dai” Can you speak English?..................................... “Khun Poot Passa Angrit Dai Mai?” I don’t understand.................................................................................. “Mai Khao Jai” Do you understand?..............................................................................“Khao Jai Mai? Help!..................................................................................................... “Chooey Dooey!” Spicy........................................................................................................................... “Pet” Not spicy............................................................................................................“Mai Pet” Is that tasty?................................................................................................. “A Roy Mai? Hot (Temperature)............................................................................................... “Rawn” Cold............................................................................................................................“Yen” Water................................................................................................................... “Naam” Where is the restroom/toilet?....................................... “Hong Naam Yoo Tee Nai? Can I have the bill/check?......................................................................... “Kep Tang” Where are you going?....................................................................................“Pai Nai? See you soon.........................................................................................“Pop Gan Mai”

And the one that rules them all - the 3 words that every Thai lives by and that can teach us stress-monkeys a thing or two about life…

It doesn’t matter No big deal Don’t worry about it Never mind

“Mai Pen Rai”

Numbers 1 - Noong 2 - Song 3 - Sam 4 - See 5 - Haa

6 - Hock 7 - Jet 8 - Ped 9 - Khao 10 - Sip


top 10 Krabi Activities Kayaking This is a hugely popular activity in Krabi. The mangroves, caves and of course the beaches, provide plenty of great opportunities for kayaking. The Ao Nang/Railay area is popular as it’s close and convenient but if you’re feeling a little more adventurous, book yourself on a tour to Ao Thalane or Bor Thor in Tarn Boke Koranee National Park. The caves, grottoes and lagoons make for a great day of fun and adventure. Wat Tham Suea A hike to Wat Tham Seua, otherwise known as Tiger Cave Temple is exhausting, exhilarating and ultimately hugely rewarding. Once you’ve climbed the 1,257 steps that lead to the hilltop temple, you’ll be met by stunning views over the surrounding Thai countryside having been transformed into swathes of lush greenery by the monsoon rain. Combine the temple with trips to other destinations like Sa Morakot or visit as a separate Krabi Town day trip and combine with trips to the market. SUNSET STROLL ALONG AO NANG BEACH Sunsets over Ao Nang and Nopharrat Thara are probably some of the best you are ever likely to see. The monsoon rain brings storm clouds that hang ominously in the sky, creating spectacular sunsets that bathe the bay in a sumptuous light. Walk along the esplanade to get some great views of the longtail boats bobbing on the water, or just sit on a bench and watch as the sky transforms. Evening in the Last Fisherman Bar After a sunset stroll there’s no better way to finish off your evening than chatting over a cocktail or two or indulging in some great seafood. If you finish your walk in Ao Nang continue along the road by the police box until you come to the Last Fisherman Bar, one of Ao Nang’s best night-spots. It’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy a drink by the ocean. The seafood restaurants at the other side of Ao

Krabi Province is a haven for sun worshippers and pleasure seekers and is also one of the world’s best destinations for activities such as rockclimbing, scuba diving and kayaking. Krabi Magazine gives you our top 10 list of activities to try here in Krabi:

Nang Beach or by the very end of Noppharat Thara beach are a must for local fish fare. Rock climbing and Railay Beach Combine a trip to Railay Beach with some rock climbing and serious beach time and then sample some of the local nightlife. Krabi is among the World’s best destinations for climbing. The Railay peninsula is home to the local climbing scene and is considered a mecca for the sport. There are hundreds of bolted routes in the Railay area as well as rock-climbing schools that can provide guides and equipment. Railay, once the sole preserve of backpackers, has become a favourite holiday destination, combining 2 world class beaches, excellent dining and some funky after hours haunts to down a few bottles of local brew.


Markets Experiencing the hustle and bustle of a local market is great fun. Krabi and Ao Nang are blessed with some great markets, with Krabi town boasting the largest covered market in southern Thailand. There’s a market operating on any given day of the week selling everything from fruit and vegetables, household items, clothes and shoes, snacks, BBQ meat, Muslim curries and more. Try the Thursday market or Saturday markets in Klong Haeng. Sa Morakot A trip to Sa Morakot or the ‘Crystal Pool’ can be combined with trips to other beauty spots such as the hot springs. The so called ‘Emerald Pool’ is fed by a natural spring and gets its name from the glorious colour of its water. Perfect for swimming, it makes a great day out and a nice break from the beach. The rainy season is a great time to go as there is more water and less people. The best way to visit is on a tour, making it easy to combine it with a trip to nature’s own hot tub – the namtok ron (hot springs) a series of splash pools fed by a natural thermal spring. Koh Hong Archipelago No trip to Krabi or Ao Nang is complete without a trip to Koh Hong, the stunning group of islands lying off the Krabi coast. The beaches of Kong Hong never cease to amaze visitors with their crystal clear water and stunning white sand. The beaches in Ao Nang can become rough and windy in the wet season, but the beaches on the islands lying in the Andaman Sea remain calm and good for swimming. Koh Hong has two glorious beaches, a lagoon and national park land – a real island paradise.

Local Nightlife If drinking prodigious amounts of local brew is on your agenda then seek out one of Krabi Town or Ao Nang’s more lively night spots. In Ao Nang, Luna Bar is a popular joint for movers who want to bust some shapes on the dancefloor. Vodka or whiskey buckets are usually the order of the day. If you want to party ‘Thai style’, then head to Centerpoint in Ao Nang or Kansas Saloon in Krabi Town. With lots of whiskey on ice flowing, these places are an experience. Live music, dj sets and semi-clad dancing girls are what you can expect. For a less salubrious night out, try Soi Salai opposite McDonald’s in Ao Nang. This clusters of neon-lit ‘beer-bars’ are often friendly and good fun and many have cable TV and free pool on offer. The next place for entertainment are the bamboo huts opposite Siam Commercial Bank for a relaxed chillout evening. Longtail boat trip to Krabi mangroves The mangroves that fringe the coastline of the various islands divided by the maze of canals are thick and impenetrable. A nature longtail boat tour of the Krabi mangroves-populated canals, with great views of local wildlife and scenery, will enhance your Krabi experience. Charter a boat driver at Chaofa old pier for the longtail trip, usually lasting 3 hours.


Community and Social Participation Koh Lanta’s Pimalai Resort & Spa gets involved in various activities that benefit the local community. Past actions have included assistance to the Lanta hospital, developing a fish sanctuary at Koh Haa and even equipping a nearby school with 10 desktop computers for the young students. On December 28th, we were again on hand to bring a little bit of Christmas cheer to the 120 young school boys & girls, supplying them with a great Christmas lunch. The teachers and pupils were certainly very appreciative of this donation. On January 12th, the resort set a booth in Klong Nin village, providing ice cream, roll-cakes and Danish pastries to hundreds of kids gathered here on the occasion of the National Children’s day.

World Luxury Spa Awards 2013 Pimalai has once again been nominated for the coveted World Luxury Spa Awards 2013, a prestigious award which gives recognition and thanks to the Luxury Spa industry. The award voting is essentially based on service excellence and is cast by spa guests, and through the feedback and votes from a selected global panel of spa industry professionals.

Peace, Serenity, Solitude….. ...these are the words that come to mind for Pimalai. Add to that elegance, natural surroundings and genuine friendly service. Be it for a honeymoon or a break from it all, Pimalai nestled in a lush tropical forest, is the destination to set your sights on. The resort combines all the right ingredients – subtle five star comfort, natural beauty, far from the crowds, with no noise except the sound of the waves sliding in and out and slowly breaking onto a pristine sandy shore.


LIVING LIFESTYLE RESORT KRABI THAILAND

Layana Resort & Spa unveil enhanced website

 Layana Resort & Spa has revealed its new look website – www.layanaresort. com. Layana Resort & Spa has redeveloped the site, ensuring time is saved when browsing, booking and even upgrading rooms from desktops, tablets or mobile technology platforms. The investment in the site includes a freshly designed homepage, upgraded 4-step booking journey, and visible offers – easily searchable by date and offer type. Stefan Heintze, General Manager, Layana Resort & Spa, comments: “With digital technology constantly evolving it’s important that we keep up with the latest booking trends to make the booking process as easy and convenient as possible for our guests and travel partners. “We have listened to feedback from our guests and based the new features on their comments and suggestions. This is just the first stage in our web development project and using the help of usability experts, we will be making further improvements throughout the rest of this year and well into 2013, including an enhanced mobile site, to make the user experience even better.”

About Layana Resort & Spa

Layana Resort & Spa is an exclusive boutique resort facing a fine white sandy beach and set against a picturesque backdrop of forested hills. Laid out amid tropical gardens and designed to harmonize perfectly with its natural surroundings, the resort comprises of low-rise, contemporary Thai-style buildings that combine spaciousness with an open, cool and natural ambience. The guests have the opportunity to appreciate an idyllic island world far from the pressures of the city. As an exclusive haven of luxury, Layana Resort & Spa aims to offer the ultimate in individualized service. Throughout, guests appreciate the hospitality that is unobtrusive to preserve privacy, and yet attentive to give a sense of privilege and to fulfill every wish.

Join us on Facebook and Twitter

075-637-485

www.thelresort.com 31 Moo 2, Ao Nang Beach, Krabi


K i d ’s A rt P u re H ea rt

has used its initiative and expertise to create a community project with students from local school, Klong Muang Primary, named Kid’s Art Pure Heart. The project draws on the concept of local know how using Sofitel’s own artist to teach the students painting skills.The best 12 pieces of art work have been selected and printed as postcards which make the perfect souvenir of Krabi and with all proceeds going directly back to the school. Your kind support in purchasing the postcards will bring them closer to having their own Art Study Room. Join us in building these kids’ dream – to create their very own Art Study Room 1 postcard for THB 25 12 postcards for just THB 250 To Love is to Share! To purchase your own postcards visit Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra's Boutique or call +6675 627 800 Ext.6150 For more information please contact 200 Moo 3, Klong Muang Beach, Tambon Nongtalay, Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel: +66 (0) 7562 7800 - Fax: 66 (0) 7562 7899 - Email: pr.sales@sofitelphokeethrakrabi.com www.sofitel.com/6184



The pulse Indian Tourism in Thailand on the rise

Local Football Tournaments Coming to Krabi

India is today the biggest source market for visitors from South Asia and one of fastest growing markets for Thailand. More than one million Indians visited Thailand in 2012, making it one of six countries to cross that landmark annual arrivals number. Indian tourists have an average daily expenditure of 160 USD per person per day over an average length of stay of 7.19 days.

The Bigfoot KIckers are a local team made up of local ex-pats and Thais are getting up to who are very passionate about the beautiful game. The team was officially created back in 2010 and has been going from strength to strength ever since. We play and train twice a week on their own home pitch based at Sangthong Vittaya school in Nuea Klong.

There has been rapid growth in aviation access. As of January 2013, there are 152 direct weekly services between Bangkok and major Indian cities including Delhi (45), Kolkata (35), Mumbai (45), Bangalore (7), Hyderabad (4), Madras/ Chennai (14) and Bagdogra (2) by Thai Airways International, Philippine Airlines, Indigo, Jet Airways, Air India, Thai Air Asia, Bangkok Airways, Cathay Pacific Airways, Royal Bhutan Airlines and Air Austral.

They are always on the lookout for new players, and are adamant that ability is not really an issue as they believe the social aspect and taking part are the most important aspects of the game, as well as having fun and getting healthy. They were very proud to have recently hosted their first tournament in Krabi with teams coming from Phuket as well as the local Krabi contigent. They believe that tournaments are a great way to meet new people and bring a competitive edge to the game of football. They are very happy to invite local Thai teams to take part in the competitions, as they are all part of the local community. It is always great to see people who may not speak the same language getting together and having a great day out through their mutual love of the beautiful game. Upcoming events include a master 7-a-side fun mini tournament in Krabi on Saturday 9th March 2013. Participating teams are from Singapore, Phuket and Krabi, and it promises to be a great competition!

Bangkok Airways ups the ante Bangkok Airways is to launch new services and add more frequencies to its regional and domestic routes to enhance the airline’s domestic reach and to strengthen Asean connections. The new services includes two daily BangkokKrabi from March 31 and four flights a week between Bangkok and Mandalay starting from September 16. Both destinations are already open for booking. Additional services will be in place for Bangkok-Trat (3 daily flights) and Bangkok-Male (5 weekly flights starting March 31). Moreover, all flights between Bangkok and Phnom Penh will now be operated by Airbus A319 and additional frequencies will be added to flights between Samui and Phuket during the summer. Visit www.BangkokAir.com.

If you are interested, check out their website or call Soony on 081 970 0679 www.krabifootball.com

Bay Regatta 2013 passes through krabi The ever-popular Ba Regatta - one of the finest displays of sailing in Thailand, starts again at the end of the month. With no fewer than 28 magnificent vessels taking to the seas in a course that will take them through Krabi on February 2nd. If you are in the Krabi area at the start of the month, keep your eye out for some colourful contestants! Jan 30 – Registration, briefing, opening party at Ao Por Marina. January 31 – Paradise Beach Resort at Koh Yao February 1st – Villaguna Residence and Spa at Koh Yao February 2nd – Free Night in Krabi February 3rd – Presentation Evening, O2 Beach club, Ao Chalong

22


Local & National news that matters to you

Rice stockpiling causing problems as it fails to sell

krabi to get new energy park to prote “clean” coal

The problem is serious as the authorities have limited warehouse capacity to cope with the excess stock, the level of which is expected to increase during the year, said an exporter source. The Commerce Ministry has reported that more than 9 million tonnes of paddy rice under the pledging scheme from the 2012-13 harvest season has entered the government’s warehouses to date. The authorities already had stockpiles of about 3 million tonnes from previous harvests.

The first Energy Park will be set up in Krabi next year at a cost of Bt500 million to promote community awareness and acceptance of coal-fired power plants. “The park in Krabi will focus on providing knowledge on clean coal technology,” an Energy Ministry source said yesterday. “The ministry is looking for a location for the park.”

The source said another 5 million to 6 million tonnes of rice was expected to enter warehouses during the remainder of the pledging scheme this year. The government would then have little or no space to stock any further rice, as most warehouses - both the government’s own and privately owned facilities - would be full. Thailand is facing difficulty selling its output overseas, in particular white rice, as the price gap between Thai and Vietnamese rice is large. Thai white rice is quoted at US$590 a tonne, while the Vietnamese equivalent is trading at $405. The source said the government urgently needed to manage its rice stocks and revise the plan to pledge a high volume at a high price; otherwise, the Kingdom will face huge losses. In a related matter, the source said the government had secretly released rice from its stockpiles to clear some warehouses by selling at low prices to certain traders. “Such secret rice-stock selling is unfair. The government has allowed some traders that have close ties with politicians to purchase rice from its warehouses at prices 20-30 per cent lower than market. The method has created huge losses for the country, as well as treating other rice traders unfairly,” the source said.

The Power Development Plan 2013 targets coal-fuelled plant capacity rising to 10 gigawatts from 3.2GW in the third amendment of the 2010 plan. Nakhon Ratchasima and Chiang Mai were also selected for an Energy Park. Krabi would be the pilot project. The Electricity Generating Authority of Thailand (Egat) plans to build an 800-megawatt coal-fired plant in Krabi that will begin to feed into the power grid in 2019. Work on the Krabi park will begin after the ministry’s fiscal 2014 budget is approved by Parliament, the source said. Recently Energy Minister Pongsak Ruktapongpisal said Thailand relied too heavily on natural gas in producing electricity and should seek alternatives such as clean coal. Under the new power development plan, coal-fired plants will be built by Egat and private investors, while the ministry’s role is to provide correct information to people on the plants.

Story from The Nation

Free trasfer from your hotel


The pulse Thailand Named 9th Best Country for Overseas Retirement

costs, as condo rentals can be had almost anywhere for just $500 (USD) per month.

International Living, the self-proclaimed number one resource for helping people find the best places to retire around the world, has recently released their annual list of top retirement havens. Thailand, long a mainstay on surveys detailing possible locations for spending one’s golden years, placed 9th for 2013. This year’s list focuses on the 22 best retirement destinations based on eight categories including climate, affordability, and ease of integration, as well as real estate, special retirement benefits, entertainment, health care and retirement infrastructure. Editors at InternationalLiving.com analyzed the feedback they received from correspondents in the places most popular with American and Canadian retirees.

While earning high marks in many areas, the report did indicate that Thailand looks to improve on special benefits offered to retirees, such as discounts on goods & services or duty-free imports of home furnishing, and the English proficiency of the locals.

Topping the list for the fifth straight year was Ecuador, highly regarded not only for its wonderful weather and remarkably inexpensive cost of living, but for the ease with which expats can integrate into life there. Thailand, an immensely popular destination for tourists – as evidenced by the nearly 22 million who visited the country in 2012 – is also well regarded for its retirement opportunities. The Land of Smiles scored highly in two important categories: cost of living, where its 97/100 rating was second best on the list to the Philippines, and entertainment & amenities, where a score of 96 placed it in the top 5. The index also points to the diversity of lifestyle options awaiting retirees in Thailand. Expats can choose between the bustling city life of the capital, Bangkok, and the white-sand beaches and clear blue waters in the south, or the slightly more temperate higher elevations in the north. The report also brought attention to the inexpensive accommodation

Rounding out the top 10 was Malta due to its very low crime rate, Mediterranean climate and large numbers of English speakers. Other EU members making the list include Spain, Ireland, France, Portugal and Italy. Thailand was one of only two Asian countries to make the top 10, along with Malaysia.


Viewpoint The page where we get to stand up and shout about stuff, things and what-nots that we think are worth it. It’s also a lot cheaper than therapy. This month - Nudity. I have to say straight off the bat - I appreciate the human form as much as the next man - especially those of the womanly persuasion. But - and here’s my point - in the right place at the right time. A walk through Ao Nang any part of day (and even after sundown, it seems) will confront the unwary with an ocean of skin in every colour, shape and - I’m betting - flavour under the sun. Ok, yes, I know that Ao Nang is a beach town, so it has to be expected that there will be folks with not much on in the general vicinity. I get that. I myself slip into something chic, understated and teasing when hitting the beach to soak up some rays with my eggshell skin. So what am I babbling on about then? It’s when I’m confronted by the same scantilly-claddedness when in a shop a mile away from the sand. That’s what. I don’t know about you, but when I leave the beach, I put my clothes back on! There it is - the catalyst of my rant this month. This is not the South of France. We do not live in the Costa Brava. There are no nude beaches here.

drains his can of Chang and pounces on you for a Kama-Sutra session in the sand while your pals photograph it. This was the sight that I was subjected to on Maya Bay a couple of weeks ago, as I sat several feet away with my wife, parents and baby daughter. Welcome to Thailand, Mum. Am I missing something here? Call me “old fashioned” if you like, but at 37 years old I would dispute that. I feel it’s a responsibility of all travellers to foreign lands to do their best to fit in to local customs and cause as little offense as possible. If you had no idea that the local feelings towards flashing the flesh were so conservative, now you undo and I implore you to please do your best to respect them. If you know the local outlooks on nudity and do it anyway, then I ask you to please try and consider the feelings of the parents and kids who live here and have to watch you flaunt your assets in their hometown.

Guys - for the love of all that is holy, just put on some shorts

In fact, the polar opposite. Thais, as a people, are quite reserved (generally!) and public displays of affection such as kissing and cuddling can be offensive and even shocking to them. On top of this, Krabi is a predominately Muslim community, and if you have ever seen a family of local Muslims at the beach, you will see that they even go into the sea for a swim fully clothed. That should give you a good idea of the local feelings towards nudity. So in my humble opinion, as visitors here it is just good manners, common sense, the “right thing to do” - however you want to coin it - to respect the local way of life. This applies to every country in the world - wherever travellers go to a new place, they should try to adapt to the local customs and procedures instead of this “Bugger it - I’m on holiday” attitude that seems to be becoming more prevalent every year.

It doesn’t take much - ladies, get a sarong from one of the 25 thousand shops that sell them for 125 Baht. Wrap it around your waist when leaving the beach and heading to the bar for a coconut shake. Please - and I never thought I’d say these words - put your bikini tops back on. Guys - for the love of all that is holy, just put on some shorts. That’s it. Just shorts. There is absolutely zero want or need to see you wandering around an air-conditioned supermarket wearing nothing more than a pair of Speedos and a mis-placed air of authority.

Right, rant over simply as I’ve ran out of space. You know who you are, so stop it. Cover up the funbags, put the speedos away and bask in the glow of responsible tourism.

Don’t get me wrong here - I’m not for a moment suggesting that we cover ourselves from head-to-toe and go for a dip with our new Levi’s on (do people still wear Levis?). The beach is the place for swimwear, bikinis and - if you must - speedos. The street is not. The local shops are not. I don’t EVER AGAIN want to stand behind Olaf in 7-Eleven, staring at rivulets of sweat coursing through the hirsute back in front of me. “Daisy dukes” are spot-on for Daytona Beach in July. Less so for Krabi town in December. Krabi Town has no beach. It is not a tourist hotspot as such - more a place where local people live and go about their business. So why on Earth are there folks wandering around the streets and in the shops wearing nothing more than a their underwear? Riddle me that, why don’t you? On the beach too, there are more and more folks bearing all for all to see. Ladies, as much as I appreciate your love pillows - not when I’m walking with my wife and daughter on Noppharathara strand of a Sunday morning, please and thank-you. God only knows what the local kids think when confronted with the chest potatoes on display most of the time now. I get that the all-over-tan must be achieved at all costs - but a little discretion wouldn’t go amiss. Topless Frisbee does not fall into this category, just FYI. Neither does flashing ones chesticles at your “partner” before he

No, no, no,no,no. Stop it .


TG 737/ 738

FD 3219/ 3220

TG747/ 748

NVR 811/ 812

FD 3223/ 3224

TR 2182/ 2183

AK 1968/ 1969

TG 745/746

PG 265/ 266

FD 3225/ 3226

TG 743/ 744

TG 741/ 742

FD 3227/ 3228

AK 1966/ 1967

FLT NO.

19.25

18.35

17.00

16.20

16.00

15.20

15.00

13.40

13.35

13.15

11.50

09.30

08.25

08.00

07.30

ARR.

20.35

19.55

19.05

17.40

16.50

18.00

15.50

15.30

14.25

14.10

13.45

12.20

10.00

08.55

09.10

08.25

DEP.

TG747/ 748

FD 3223/ 3224

TR 2182/ 2183

AK 1968/ 1969

TG 745/746

PG 265/ 266

FD 3225/ 3226

TG 743/ 744

TG 741/ 742

FD 3227/ 3228

AK 1966/ 1967

DK 5913/ 5914

DK 2923/ 2924

17.00

16.20

15.20

15.00

13.40

13.35

13.15

11.50

09.30

08.25

08.00

07.30

06.20

06.20

ARR.

19.15

19.05

17.40

16.50

15.50

15.30

14.25

14.10

13.45

12.20

10.00

08.55

09.10

08.25

07.55

07.55

DEP.

TG 739/ 740

FD 3221/ 3222

TR 2184/ 2185

TG 737/ 738

FD 3219/ 3220

TG747/ 748

FD 3223/ 3224

TR 2182/ 2183

AK 1968/ 1969

TG 745/746

PG 265/ 266

FD 3225/ 3226

TOM 746/ 747

TG 743/ 744

BLX 843/844

TG 741/ 742

FD 3227/ 3228

AK 1966/ 1967

FLT NO.

19.50

19.25

18.40

18.35

17.00

16.20

15.20

15.00

13.40

13.35

13.15

11.50

10.50

09.30

08.45

08.25

08.00

07.30

ARR.

20.35

19.55

19.15

19.05

17.40

16.50

15.50

15.30

14.25

14.10

13.45

12.20

12.50

10.00

10.45

08.55

09.10

08.25

DEP.

TG 739/ 740

FD 3221/ 3222

TG 737/ 738

FD 3219/ 3220

TG747/ 748

NVR 815/ 816

FD 3223/ 3224

TR 2182/ 2183

AK 1968/ 1969

TG 745/746

PG 265/ 266

FD 3225/ 3226

TSO 9727/9728

AY 1969/ 1970

TG 743/ 744

TG 741/ 742

FD 3227/ 3228

AK 1966/ 1967

FLT NO.

19.50

19.25

18.35

17.00

16.20

16.05

15.20

15.00

13.40

13.35

13.15

11.50

11.05

10.05

09.30

08.25

08.00

07.30

ARR.

20.35

19.55

19.05

17.40

16.50

18.05

15.50

15.30

14.25

14.10

13.45

12.20

12.50

11.35

10.00

08.55

09.10

08.25

DEP.

THURSDAY

FD 3219/ 3220 18.35

19.55

WEDNESDAY

TG 737/ 738 18.40

20.35

TUESDAY

TR 2184/ 2185 19.25

FLT NO.

Flight Times for February

FD 3221/ 3222 19.50

MONDAY

TG 739/ 740

19.50

ARR.

08.25

DEP.

12.20

FD 3219/ 3220

18.35

17.00

19.55

19.05

17.40

FD 3219/ 3220

TG747/ 748

FD 3223/ 3224

TR 2182/ 2183

AK 1968/ 1969

TG 745/746

PG 265/ 266

TSO 9727/9728

FD 3225/ 3226

TOM 456/ 457

BLX 811/ 812

TG 743/ 744

TG 741/ 742

FD 3227/ 3228

AK 1966/ 1967

TOM 432/433

FLT NO.

18.35

17.00

16.20

15.20

15.00

13.40

13.35

13.15

12.20

11.50

11.00

09.50

09.30

08.25

08.00

07.30

06.55

ARR.

20.35

19.55

19.05

17.40

16.50

15.50

15.30

14.25

14.10

13.45

14.55

12.20

13.00

11.20

10.00

08.55

09.10

08.25

09.35

DEP.

SUNDAY

FD 3221/ 3222

07.30

12.45

TG 737/ 738

20.35

TG 737/ 738

19.50

19.25

AK = AIR ASIA (KUALA LUMPUR - 180 PAX) TR = TIGER AIRWAYS (SINGAPORE - 180 PAX) NVR = NOVAIR (SWEDEN - 299 PAX) BLX = TUIFLY NORDIC (D’MARK, S’DEN, F’LAND - 291 PAX) DK = THOMAS COOK AIRLINES (SWEDEN, NORWAY - 396 PAX) TOM = THOMPSON AIRWAYS (D’MARK, S’DEN, F’LAND - 291 PAX) AY = FINNAIR (FINLAND - 396 PAX) DK = THOMAS COOK AIRLINES(SWEDEN, NORWAY) TSO = TRANSAERO AIRLINES (RUSSIA - 235PAX)

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

TG = THAI AIRWAYS SMILE (BANGKOK) FD = THAI AIR ASIA (Don Muang, Bangkok) PG = BANGKOK AIRWAYS (SAMUI)

DOMESTIC FLIGHTS

TG 739/ 740

FLT NO.

SATURDAY AK 1966/ 1967

FRIDAY DEP.

08.55

08.25

10.00

ARR.

08.25

07.30

09.30

FLT NO.

TG 741/ 742

AK 1966/ 1967

TG 743/ 744

09.10

08.55

08.00

10.00

FD 3227/ 3228

08.25

09.10

09.30

08.00

TG 741/ 742

FD 3227/ 3228 TG 743/ 744

11.50

13.45

12.50 12.15

14.10

10.50 FD 3225/ 3226

13.15

TOM 338/ 339

13.45

TR 2182/ 2183

13.35

12.20

13.15

14.10

PG 265/ 266

11.50

PG 265/ 266 13.35

TG 745/746

FD 3225/ 3226 TG 745/746

14.25

15.50

14.25

15.30

15.20

13.40

13.40

FD 3223/ 3224

AK 1968/ 1969

15.00

16.50

15.50

AK 1968/ 1969

16.20

15.20

TR 2182/ 2183 FD 3223/ 3224 TG747/ 748

19.05

19.25

16.50 19.55

19.50

16.20 18.35

FD 3221/ 3222

TG747/ 748 19.25

TG 739/ 740

17.40

TG 737/ 738

20.35

17.00

FD 3221/ 3222

19.50

FD 3219/ 3220

TG 739/ 740

TG 739/ 740

FD 3221/ 3222


Getting Around There are busses, taxis, tuk-tuks, motorcycles, minivans, coaches, scooters, sawng-thaws, longtails, speedboats and more all awaiting you with a smile. What can be tricky sometimes is knowing how much a trip costs, where to buy your tickets and how long a journey should take - things that are starting to become more obvious now than they were before.

From Krabi Airport

Air-Con Bus

Nice, clean, air-con cars are available to take you anywhere you want to go and can carry up to 4 people. Or you can buy a seat in a minivan for less, but as it can take up to 10 people you may have to wait until they fill it.

There is now a regular shuttle bus that runs between the airport and popular destinations like those mentioned above. It also stops at piers where ferries leave for places like Railay and Tonsai. This can be a great option if you are on a budget, but can take a while to get to where you want to go.

Car

Minivan

Car

Krabi Town

350

600

Krabi Bus Station

80

Ao Nang

600

1050

Krabi Town

90

Klong Muang

700

1100

Lanta Pier

90

Tub Kaek

800

1200

Ao Nang

150

Railay Pier

150

Tonsai Pier

150

Phuket - Aonang Phuket - Aonang Phuket - Railay (pass Ao nang) Phuket - Railay (pass Ao nang) Phuket - Lanta (pass Ao nang , Railay) Phuket - Phi Phi

O/W O/W O/W O/W O/W O/W

Ao Nang - Phi Phi Ao Nang - Lanta Ao Nang - Phuket Ao Nang - Phuket

O/W O/W O/W O/W

Railay - Phi Phi Railay - Lanta Railay - Phuket Railay - Phuket

O/W O/W O/W O/W

Phi Phi - Phuket Phi Phi - Railay Phi Phi - Ao Nang

O/W O/W O/W

Lanta - Railay Lanta - Ao Nang Lanta - Phuket (pass Railay,AoNang)

O/W O/W O/W

Depart. Arrive. 08.30 - 10.15 am. 13.30 - 15.30 pm. 08.30 - 10.45 am. 13.30 - 15.45 pm. 08.30 - 12.45 pm. 08.30 - 10.00 am. Depart. Arrive. 09.30 - 11.30 am. 10.30 - 12.45 pm. 10.30 - 12.30 pm. 15.30 - 17.30 pm. Depart. Arrive. 09.45 - 11.30 am. 10.45 - 12.45 am. 10.30 - 12.30 pm. 15.15 - 17.30 pm. Depart. Arrive. 14.30 - 16.00 pm. 15.30 - 16.45 pm. 15.30 - 17.00 pm. Depart. Arrive. 13.30 - 15.15 pm. 13.30 - 15.30 pm. 13.30 - 17.30 pm.

243 Moo 2, Ao Nang Beach, A. Muang, Krabi 81000 Tel: (66) 075-637152/3, 075-637730 Fax: 075-637153 60/57 Moo 3, T. Rassada, A. Muang, Phuket 83000 Tel: (66) 076-353211-2 Fax: 76-353212

www.aonangtravel.co.th


Thai

Customs Thailand is one of those countries that have customs very different to what we might be used to in our home countries and the Thais are extremely proud of that. As we are a visitor in their country, it’s only right and proper that we take a little time to understand some local customs - does and don’ts - that can make a huge difference in your encounters with the locals. They will really appreciate you making the effort and it can go a long way in making your stay here more fulfilling.

H

ere are a few of the more important things to remember they are simple, cost nothing and are all based in common sense. Dress It’s one of the great ironies of life that the one place in Thailand that has the best beaches, ocean and blazing hot sun, is also one of the most conservative when it comes to dressing. The predominantly Muslim population here in the South can take real offense to any tourist wandering into their shop with just a bikini on, or tiny shorts for the guys. I know, you’re on holiday and you deserve that tan - I understand. But here, bikinis are for the beach and only the beach. Please, please, please try to appreciate the cultural differences here and

cover up a little when heading to and from the beach. Guys, just pull on a pair of board shorts and T-shirt. No-one wants to see another pair of fluorescent Speedos making their way around the town. Ladies - simple. Sarongs. Dead cheap, available everywhere, take up no space, dry in a heartbeat and can be used a hundred different ways. Wrap one around your waist or shoulders when heading off the beach and you’re sorted. Royalty The Thai Royal Family is revered and there can be no worse “faux pas” than joke about the King. Some have actually been thrown in jail for making “uncivil remarks” about their beloved leader. It’s serious business and you should take

note. You’ll see his image absolutely everywhere, which should give you a good idea of the respect and love he has from the Thai population. Just use common sense and you’ll be fine. If in doubt about what you should do in any given situation - just do what the Thais around you are doing and you can’t go wrong. Religion Respect is the name of the game when visiting a temple or encountering a wandering monk. Again, no speedos. As a rule of thumb, make sure that your shoulders and knees are covered (especially the ladies) and you’ll be fine. Remember the mantra - “bring a sarong and you can’t go wrong”. Monks Buddhist monks are forbidden to make direct physical contact with women. This means that if a woman has to give anything to a monk, she must first hand it to a man who then can pass it on. Sometimes the monk will lay out a piece of his robe on the ground, where the lady can then place the object and he can pick it up. Buddha Sacred and revered. Even if it’s a ruined, half destroyed statue of the deity - treat it with the utmost respect and you’ll shine in the eyes of the Thais. Common sense again - don’t clamber up onto one and make bunny ears behind it for a photo. If you want to take a picture of a statue, please do so respectfully and, if possible, ask a passing monk if it’s ok to do so. It may seem a bit odd to us, but it’s a real big deal to Thai people - so who are we to argue? Head & Feet In Buddhism, the feet are seen as the lowest part of the body and the head the highest - both literally as well as


figuratively. This means that you should never point your feet at a Thai, a monk or a statue of Buddha. Instead, sit with your feet under your knees like the statue of Buddha here or even cross-legged if you have glass joints like mine. Also, try never to step over someone who is lying in your path (sleeping, presumably) as the act of passing the soles of your feet across them can be just as bad or worse than the feet-pointing. The head is seen as the most “holy” part of the body and as such, should not be touched. This means no playful ruffling of that cheeky boy’s hair or patting of kids heads. I know, to us it’s a gesture of affection. To Thais, it’s very offensive. Shoes Easy this one - take your shoes or flip flops off at the entrance to any indoor space. If in any doubt, look for other flip flops at the doorway and leave yours there with them. Resorts are the exception to this, as are most restaurants - but absolutely take them off if entering a Wat (temple) or a Thai’s home. Saying “Hi” - Thai Style The “Wai” is the traditional Greeting here in Thailand - similar to the handshake in the west. It’s usually performed by a “lower class” of person when greeting a superior, who can then return the gesture. You’ve all seen it as soon as you arrived at your resorts - I have no doubt. The “Wai-er” places the palms of their hands together like their about to pray and then bends forwards at the waist. It’s good practice to return the gesture too and the Thais really appreciate it. Just put your hands together with the tips of your fingers touching your chin and bend forward a little while saying “Sawadee krap” if you’re of the manly persuasion or “Sawadee kaa” if a lady. You may notice that sometimes you are addressed as “Mr. Bob” or “Miss. Jane” instead of your family name. This is just the way Thai people address their peers, usually with the first name. Kissing Public displays of affection are a big no-no all over Thailand, and should be avoided. No snogging in the restaurant please - or you will be confronted with a sea of red-faced Thais all avoiding you. Shopping Thailand is an excellent place to pick up some bargains, and haggling is expected amongst customers and vendors. Remember to take the “softly-softly” approach and don’t be aggressive. In some parts of the world, haggling can take the form of a shouting match with arms flailing, spit flying and lots of walking way and pulling back. Not so here. That kind of behavior will get you nowhere. Smile and ask what their best price is and take it from there. Keep your voice calm and quiet and never, ever lose your temper.

Some of the best things to buy here in Thailand are: • Leather • Jewellery • Silk • Wooden carvings • Art • Ceramics • Silverware • Precious gems So there you have it. Try these simple tips and know that you are immersing yourself more in the Thai culture and receiving genuine smiles back from the locals for your efforts.


Bussaba Thai Restaurant is a modern Thai eatery offering a single course eating experience devised to feed you with minimum fuss.

The menu also offers an extensive list of Asian-inspired juices, smoothies, coffee as well as a simple yet intelligent selection of wines.

A diverse but simple menu offers a flavorsome selection of Thai salads, noodles, curries and stir-fries with an authenticity and freshness that surpasses expectations.

The combination of its stylish interior, chattering atmosphere and mouthwatering food has drawn a loyal following of customers since its inception 9 years ago.

Bussabathairestaurant@live.com 0818946486@aisinbox.com Phone: 66-75-661409, 081-8946486 Fax: 66-75-661409 129 Moo.3 T. Ao-nang, A. Muang, Krabi 81000

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bussaba-Thai-Restaurant-Hostel-Krabi/161159264025565


What the...

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Wanna’s Place 2.0

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wiss cuisine excellence, highest standard Thai cuisine (served with Thai hospitality) and a very popular Sizzling Steak Specialty. That’s what Wanna’s Place restaurant offers its discerning guests.

Over time, the style and presentation of Wanna’s Place has varied, adapting to needs of the holiday-maker. Latest alterations marked a return to time-honoured Swiss standards, along with the natural ‘serviceculture’ of the Thais.

The owners, Stephan and Wanna Scheidegger were here in Ao Nang at: “… the very beginning.” he tells me.

I caught the twinkle in the eye of Stephan when discussing his and Wanna’s recent success. At present, on or near the top of the Trip Advisor website (152 restaurants registered on the site at the time of writing). You are greeted by staff that are dressed smartly, professional, and with that famous Thai smile.

“…In 1990 when I first arrived here, there was only an idyllic beach. Wanna was the first to set up a simple place selling home cooked Thai food to the (very) occasional visitor.” Stephan began his future here, marrying Wanna, establishing “The ‘L’ Resort” hotel and “Wanna’s Place” restaurant. “I wanted to create a Swiss cuisine restaurant that also offered the best of Thai cuisine, and specialty dishes such as the ‘Sizzling Steak’ that has proved to be a winner with our guests and public alike.” The location speaks for itself; 5 meters from Ao Nang Beach, where the glorious sunset complements the tone of the restaurant. Swiss style, with wooden pillars, high quality wooden furniture, and décor.

www.thelresort.com

“The achievement of staff professionalism isn’t something you can arrive at overnight.” Stephan explains. “We worked with them on an individual basis from the beginning; Educating, making demands, and requiring the standards that match our vision.” “Much depends on getting it right during the high season.” Stephan continued. “We made sure that the successful features of the restaurant were in place in time for this high season.” Meaning of course, that unique symbiosis of Swiss standards and Thai hospitality. Those two features are the ‘winning formula’ for Wanna’s Place (and the ‘L’ Resort

hotel). That’s a reflection of the harmony between Stephan and Wanna. The tone and quality of a business always extends from those at the top. Both Wanna and Stephan are passionate about ensuring those standards. You won’t find them far from the restaurant or kitchens, especially during the busiest hours, directing and supporting staff; serving guests directly, and generally ensuring that customers’ experience matches the promise of excellence.

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aving a Swiss Chef personally chosen by Stephan, and with Wanna commanding the Thai kitchen, the food standard is consistent, well presented and delicious. I asked Stephan “What’s next?” and “Where do you go from here?” “Up!”, he stated (with that twinkle in the eye again). “We have plans to build a restaurant on the roof of the hotel reception building” (adjacent to Wanna’s Place). With the string of successes behind them, I’m sure that it will be THE restaurant to visit in the near future.


Eating Guide Carnivore - Steak & Grill

Soi Klong Haeng opposite Thai Village Resort, Ao Nang. They say that the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and the same goes for steaks. The quality of what this kitchen produces is extremely hard to beat - and the experience of the owner Gidi is evident as you walk into the elegant and pristine restaurant. Gidi worked for 15 years in the restaurant business before starting Carnivore back in 2003 - and he has never looked back. All main courses come with salad and a choice of six different potato dishes that include homemade french fries and mashed potato to die for. As well as the 5-star meat selection, Carnivore also offers some of the finest salads, soups, crispy baguettes, grilled sandwiches and warm starters around - as well as no less than 60 beers from around the world. Yes, 60.

Average price: 400-900+THB What to Try: The “Carnivore” signature Steak Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 3pm - 11pm. (Kitchen open from 4pm - 10pm) Tel:+66 (0)75661061 Website: www.carnivore-thailand.com

Da Carla - Italian and Thai Restaurant Noppharathara Beach, inside Sabai Resort.

For some of the best Italian food you will find in Ao Nang and beyond, you should look no further than this place. Nestled just off Noppharathara Beach and next to Sabai Resort, Da Carla & Poan is a small, informal place owned and managed by an Italian couple who are long-time residents here. As well as great Thai food, this is the place for some real-deal homemade pasta just like it should be made. The hand-filled ravioli and homemade desserts that are on the menu are very hard to argue with. Great meat selection too, with quality steak and the freshest seafood you could hope to find.

Average price: 250+THB What to Try: The hand-filled ravioli Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 7:30am - 2:30pm and 5:30pm - 9:30pm Tel:+66 (0)75637791 Website: www.sabairesort.com

As you would expect, a good selection of imported wine is also available, as well as imported Belgian beers.

The Irish Rover- Irish Pub & Restaurant

Heading towards Ao Nang beach on the “Mc Donald’s Road”, look for the pint of Guinness... The Irish Rover has one of the largest draught beer selections in Southern Thailand, including Kilkenny and a very nice pint of Guinness. Irish ciders Magners and Strongbow are also available for those hot days when nothing else will hit the spot. The kitchen is open until 1am, serving excellent food in generous portions. Expect to see homemade pies, tender steaks, juicy chops, shepherd’s pie (made with Guinness) as well as ploughman’s lunches, bangers and mash and more. Happy hours & drink specials are worth watching out for. Air-conditioned, live sports, pool table and a darts board all complete this little slice of Ireland right here in Ao Nang.

Average price: 250+THB What to Try: The home made pies Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 4pm - 1am. Tel:+66 (0)75637607 Website: www.irishpubaonang.com

TJ’s Sports Bar & Grill

Located on the road to Ao Nang beach, just past Mc Donald’s TJ’s Sports Bar & Grill is the place to go when you want to be yourself for a while. With live sport always running on their large projection wall and numerous big screen TVs, you will have the best experience you can without being on the playing field. In the bar they serve all the classic cocktails by the book and a lot new ones with that “TJ’s touch.” They also offer five different draught beers, English cider and 20+ different bottles of beer. Tj’s is under Swedish management and the kitchen with head chef Oskar cooks up a classic sports bar menu with that little extra - everything from nachos and smaller dishes to big homemade hamburgers and juicy steaks.

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Average price: 220 THB What to Try: The home made burgers & nachos Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from Noon - Late Tel:+66 (0)75637119 Website: www.tjs-krabi.com


Eating Guide Smiling Dog Café - Crêperie Located on main street, opposite KL House in AoNang

The wonderfully titled Smiling Dog Café offers gourmet food without the gourmet price tag. Serving a wide variety of hot and iced drinks and breakfast all day, as well as some of the finest filled crêpes you’ll find anywhere in the South of Thailand. An extensive menu that includes traditional sweet treats like their famous banana and chocolate filled “Chunky Monkey” or “Caramel and Apple”, the Smiling Dog Café also offers plenty to cater for those who prefer a savoury bite. Salmon & cream cheese, Tex Mex and vegetarian options are some of their highlights, and you can even create your own with a wide selection of tasty ingredients.

Average price: 89 THB What to Try: The Chunky Monkey or Tex Mex Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 7am - 8pm. Tel:+66 (0)809-298-297 Website: www.thesmilingdogcafe.com

With freshly ground coffee, comfy seating inside and out, a selection of local and International newspapers and free WiFi, the Smiling Dog Café is a great little place to ease into your day in comfort and style.

The Red Devil - Grill & Lounge

Just outside Ao Nang at the Ao Nammao junction. Big red building. With their focus set firmly on comfort and quality, the Red Devil offers a mouthwatering selection of gourmet steaks, burgers, salads, pizzas and pastas - all top quality and cooked to exacting standards by Italian chef and owner, Umberto. The jewel in the crown of the Red Devil is it’s upstairs VIP lounge area that’s open to the public as well as being bookable for private functions like Birthday parties, meetings and get-togethers with friends. Sumptuously decorated with oversized cushions, low tables and carpeting throughout, “lounging” is almost obligatory. Soft lighting, a dedicated music system and even a “waitress call-button” all make for a wonderfully unique and relaxing atmosphere that really has to be seen to be appreciated.

Average price: 200+THB What to Try: The steaks, pasta & burgers Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 8am - late Tel:+66 (0) 83 175-6938 Website: www.reddevilaonang.com

New lunch specials are now available, offering great discounts on set meals. Call for details or pass by and check the chalkboard outside

Bellini @ Amari Vogue Resort & Spa 149 Moo 3, Tambol Nongtalay, Amphur Muang Krabi 81000

For a beachfront location that will make you linger by the water all night long, pull up a chair at Bellini restaurant. Specializing in authentic Italian cuisine, Bellini has perfected a delicious menu of handmade pastas, gourmet pizza as well as taking full advantage of its seaside locale with delicious seafood specialties and international highlights.

Lotus @ Amari Vogue Resort & Spa Take your tastebuds on a world tour at Lotus restaurant. This laid-back Krabi restaurant features authentic Thai cuisine to suit every craving. With an elegant dining room as well as a terrace for outdoor dining, Lotus is the perfect choice for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Average price: 400++THB What to Try: Bellini’s seafood and Lotus’s carpaccio Free WiFi?: For hotel guests only Opening Hours: Daily. Bellini from 11am - 11pm and Lotus from 6:30am - Midnight Tel: +66 (0) 7560 7777 Website: www.amari.com/vogue


Eating Guide Venezia @ Sofitel

Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort

200 Moo.3 Klong Muang Beach, Tambon Nongtalay, Muang, Krabi

Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort’s Ristorante Venezia serves up gourmet cuisine featuring traditional Italian recipes, pizzas straight from the wood-fired oven & a large selection of wines from all over the globe. Located on the first floor of the resort & next to the grand lobby, tables are available for either indoor dining or on the outdoor terrace, al fresco style, with panoramic views of the ocean and tropical gardens. Specialties include the Albero di Antipasti, at THB++600, a delicious selection of 6 of your favourite anti pasti choices, perfect when you can’t decide from their extensive menu choices. Another must try is the Ravioli Frutti di Mare at THB440++, delectable homemade ravioli stuffed with the freshest Andaman seafood and served in a mouthwatering creamy crab meat sauce!

Average price: 400++THB What to Try: BThe antipasti & ravioli frutti di mare Free WiFi?: No Opening Hours: Open daily from 6pm - 11pm. Tel:+66 (0)75627800 Email: fbsales@sofitelphokeethrakrabi.com Website: www.sofitel.com/6184

Gecko’s restaurant @ The Sheraton Resort & Spa

155 Moo 2, Nong Thale, Krabi

The signature restaurant of Sheraton Krabi features fresh pastas, salads and delicious selections from authentic Italian home cooking to pizzas baked in a traditional wood burning oven. Enjoy breathtaking ocean views and the Andaman Sea breeze while dining at this prestigious resort, known the world over for it’s top quality dining experiences. With a mouth-watering array of choices on the menu, you are quite literally spoiled for choice when it comes down to it. Great food in a 5-star location with meticulous attention to detail. What more could you ask for?

Average price: 400-900++THB What to Try: The pizzas Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 11am -11pm. Tel: +66 (0)75628000 Website: www.sheraton.com/krabi

Cleopatra - Egyptian Restaurant & Shisha

On the main road to Ao Nang beach, after Mc Donalds

This is without a doubt one of the best things to hit the Ao Nang dining scene this season. The food here is North African and Arabic, so think home-made hummus, baba ghanoush, eggplant curry, falafel and kebabs and you get some idea of what to expect. They have a vast array of dishes that ranges from lamb biryani and pasta to T-Bone steaks and mashed potatoes. Although you must banish any image of a greasy, late night kebab house - this place does it in style. This is the only place around that offers the traditional shisa pipe along with a variety of fruit flavours that are all worth a go - especially if you haven’t tried them before. They use a nontobacco formula that is pretty unique, and a lot better for you as well. They compliment their dishes with a selection of 6 different breads that are all baked on-site in a large outdoors bread oven. Their BBQ grill is just as impressive and there can be nothing better than sitting on the terrace sipping a cool drink and watching your selection being cooked in front of you.

Average Price: 250+THB Shisha: 200 - 450THB What to Try: Hummus, breads, lamb Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Daily from Noon - 2am Tel: +66 (0)82 1951982 email: cleopatra_krabi@hotmail.com

Tattoo de Café

On the Ao Nang Beach Road and opposite Red Devil on the Ao Nammao junction The Tattoo de Café is something of an institution in Ao Nang as they have been on the beach for over 8 years and counting. With a fairly unique combo of tattoos and food, you can get inked and drinked (!) at the same time, with top quality in both areas. Forget instant “6-in-one” coffees here as only the freshest ground beans are used in their brews. For something sweet to accompany your cuppa, they offer some truly scrumptious homemade cheesecake and ice-creams that are becoming legendary. If you are after something hot, they have some great house specials that include “Khao Pad Plaa Salit” - fried rice with salted fish & dried chillies, and spaghetti with bacon and black olives. American and English breakfasts, salads, chicken wings, cheesy fries, sandwiches and more all make this place a great - and handy - stop on your way down the beach road.

Average Price: 100+THB What to Try: Grilled chicken & crab sandwich, cheesecake Free WiFi?: Yes Tel: +66 (0) 81-9294766 email: mirorynut@hotmail.com


Eating Guide The Frog & Catfish - Restaurant & Country Inn

Din Daeng Noi, Nong Thale, Krabi Town 81000

Owned and ran by Gary and his wife, Bua, the Frog & Catfish is located in the Din Daeng Noi locality just a 10 minute drive from busy Ao Nang and is a gem of a place. The food here is nothing short of spectacular, with people coming from as far as Railay Beach just to eat for the evening. Top resorts have been sending their head chefs here to see what all the fuss is about, and with good reason. Think duck curries and freshwater fish. Lemongrass and mango fused with chilli and herbs. Sushi roll-style spring rolls with a 7-herb dip. You get the idea. They use locally sourced ingredients and organically grown fish from their own stocks. There are also have a few western items on the menu that include their own take on the classic fish & chips with “proper chips”, a full English breakfast and fillet steak as well as pasta and a few others all prepared in their own impeccable style The location is stunning, the hospitality equally so and the food downright delicious. If you are looking to get away from the bustle of Krabi or Ao Nang for a while, this is the place to go.

Average Price: 150+THB What to Try: Whole fried fish in Boraan Sauce, Duck curry Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Daily from 10am-10pm Tel: +66(0)84 773 0301 Website: www.frogandcatfishkrabi.com

U&P Homemade Bakery 401/4 Ao Nang, Krabi. End of Na Thai Road.

U&P Homemade Bakery has been around for a few years now and has secured itself a place in the hearts and stomachs of many locals and ex-pats in the Ao Nang area. Being one of the very few bakeries in town that bakes a good loaf of bread, U&P also have a great array - and display - of pastries, cakes, flatbreads, rolls, buns and even breadsticks to choose from. They have a fairly extensive menu as well, meaning you can get more than just a decent cup of coffee and croissant in the morning. Lunchtime is sorted with a great selection of western and Thai dishes - the sandwiches being a firm favorite thanks to the freshness of the bread being used and the decent sized portions served up. Their early morning opening is perfect if you want to get a head start on your day, and the free WiFi makes hanging out here a longer pleasure as you can catch up with work or friends online. Located a little out of town for most of the tourist trade, they are certainly worth a look in if you find yourself in the Na Thai area on the outskirts of Ao Nang. You won’t be disappointed!

What to Try: Sandwiches Free WiFi?: Yes Average Price: 100THB Opening Hours: 6am - 5pm Tel.: 081-8956670

Khao Thong Terrace This place is the restaurant equivalent of a pot of gold at the end of a particularly spectacular rainbow. I’d bet my left arm that there is no way you would ever find the Khao Thong Terrace in a gazillion years until now. Heck, we had no idea it existed until a Thai friend told us about it. The food here matches the view - simply amazing. If you tire of the usual “Thai Tourist” fodder then imagine a herb salad consisting of ginger, lemongrass, carrot, lime, spring onion and chilli with a Thai sweet sauce relish, or “Laab Pla”, aka spicy, crispy fish salad and an amazing yellow curry with crab that has Thai locals honing in here from miles around. Don’t be worried that this is exclusively a Thai place though, as they cater for both local and notso local palates. Crunchy spring rolls, chicken satay sticks, fresh fish fried with turmeric, homemade fish cakes and chicken any way you like it are all possible, and all fresh from the water you gaze at while devouring. Washed down with a fresh cocktail - or even a mocktail for the drivers - Khao Thong Terrace promises to be an evening you won’t, and shouldn’t, forget.

Average Price: 120THB What to Try: The crab curry Free WiFi?: Thankfully not Opening Hours: Daily from 11am-10pm Tel: +66(0)83 107 4400 Email: khaothongterrace@gmail.com

Wanna’s Place @ The L Resort North end of the Beach Road. Can’t miss it.

One of the very first restaurants in Ao Nang from 20 years ago, Wanna’s Place at the L Resort has hones it’s food and service to perfection. Owned and ran by A Swiss National, They offer an extensive range of Thai and Swiss food that is unsurpassed in the area. As well as the usual Thai dished you want to see, they have dishes like the original “Zurich Geschnetzeltes”, Schnitzel with cream sauce and noodles, or a veal sausage with Rösti. They serve “sizzling steaks” on hot stones for you to prepare just the way you like at your table. As a thank-you to the local community - as well as keeping their ingredients as top-notch as they can - Wanna’s Place has their own organic farm that employs local people to grow their own produce. Perfectly located on the Beach road, the large, open restaurant is airy and roomy with great views of the ocean and an idyllic base for people-watching with a cool drink. Rated as the No. 2 restaurant in Ao Nang on Trip Advisor, this is a must-try place.

Average Price: 200+THB What to Try: Steak on hot stone Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 7am - 10pm Tel.: 075 637 484 Website: www.thelresort.com


Eating Guide Cafe Del Mar Restaurant 126/2 Moo 3, Ao Nang, Krabi

This well-known eatery is the partner restaurant to the Baan Bandalay Resort next to it, and is a great place for some good Thai food close to the center of things. With an impressive view of the towering green jungle-covered cliffs opposite, you can very happily while away some time here sipping a fresh fruit shake or partaking in one of the classical Thai dishes the South has become renowned for. Curries are good here and the Massaman in particular has been singled out by many as one to look forward to. They also offer sizzling platters that come to your table for that something a little different! Good food, local ingredients and well presented - Cafe Del Mar is hard to beat.

Average Price: 120THB What to Try: The Mussaman currry Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: All day Tel: +66(0) 75 638 085/6 Email: reservation@baanbandalay.com

Bussaba Thai Restaurant 129 Moo3, Ao Nang Beach, Ao Nang, Krabi

The Bussaba Thai Restaurant is a terrific place to start if you have just arrived in Thailand. That’s not to say it’s only for newcomers - not by a long shot - but for a first introduction to this country and it’s cuisine, it hits the spot. The location, for one, is close to Ao Nang beach which makes for a pleasant stroll to and from the place, to get your juices flowing. Once you arrive, the combination of delicious cooking aromas coming from the kitchen will again give you a better idea of what’s to come. Seafood is the name of the game here, and its as fresh as you can get. Crab, snapper, king prawns and more can be steamed, fried, battered and minced with the freshest ingredients to create something for everyone. For those of you adverse to the chilli, they can serve sauces on the side or recommend a host of other options, including lime, garlic, lemongrass and plum sauces to compliment your dish. Formerly known as “E-San Seafood”, there is a distinct Northern twist to the food, which means traditional recipes at a lower price than a lot of the other restaurants in the area. Cheap, tasty, simple and with friendly service, the Bussaba Thai Restaurant is hard to beat for that real-deal Thai food experience. One happy customer even went on to state, “I could eat here every day for the rest of my life” Enough said, I suppose...

Average Price: 250THB What to Try: Seafood Free WiFi?: Nope Tel: +66(0) 75 661 409 Website: www.bussabathairestaurant@live.com


The Longtailboat located at seafood street, offering spectacular views over the bay of Ao-nang. We’re dedicated to providing our guests with brilliant times in a chic and relaxed setting with our good service, here you will find a superb dining experience and great memories. Our experienced chefs proudly present you our authentic Thai and European cuisine. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality from the fisherman boat at reasonable price.

Information:

Menu sample :

Contact: 075 638 093

01. our "The princess of ao nang" signature experience of Assorted seafood deep fried with sweet plum sauce.

Average cost per person: 500 Bt.

02. " Stir fried snapper fish with black pepper sauce" with garlic butter fried rice

House wine per bottle: 900 - 1,800 Bt.

03. " Massaman Tiger prawns" served with Roti bread

Credit Cards: Visa, Master

04. Barbecued "Jumbo prawns" with vegetable and sweet sour sauce served with steamed rice

Service & Tax: No Charge Popular dish: "Guarantee fresh Seafood"

European sample:

delivery every day from the fisherman boat

01. Lasagna classica bolognese

(most fishing from Ao nang sea)

02. Pizza "Quattro Formaggi"

Open from: 13:00 last order 22:30

03. Cozze al vino bianco - new zealand mussels in our creamy white wine sauce . A traditional Italian recipe

facebook page: Thelongtailboat restaurant,Krabi

04. Australian Angus "Tenderlion" with red wine sauce served with baked potato and grilled vegetable

e-mail: thelongtailboat@gmail.com

05. Grilled Fillet of Sea Bass with White Wine cream Sauce - served with fresh salad and garlic bread

For taxi: รานอาหารเดอะ ลองเทลโบท อยูในซอยอาวนางซีฟูด ริมทะเลหาดอาวนาง

* Vegetarian Selection


going

green By Emily Huang-Ramirez

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here I come from, hydroponic gardening just means you grow ganja plants in your mom’s basement. Real talk. Hydroculture – growing plants in a soilless medium – has actually been in existence for thousands of years, surpassing traditional methods of gardening and farming in efficiency and productivity. In fact, the hanging Gardens of Babylon and The Floating Gardens of China are two of the earliest examples of Hydroculture. Munch on that. Perhaps Hydroculture owes its recent popularization to the substantial change in the global climate: the advent of the internet; increased exchange of ideas through travel and media; and most importantly, a greater social trend to return to wholesome and unadulterated foods. In Western culture, we are seeing a revolution of how we view food, particularly where it comes from and how it comes to be. We should be concerned about these things regardless of our coordinates, and for obvious reasons. In recent years, the Royal Family has paralleled this progression by broadcasting a wealth of knowledge regarding sustainable agriculture. Viable methods for cleaner, more efficient and more productive farming has become readily available through numerous televised programs. This is quite an impressive venture for a developing nation; the growing outlook is emphasizing the health of what we grow and eat in Thailand, not just the quantity of the nation’s food. So, when my good friend Golf casually mentioned buying produce at an unassuming hydroponic garden in Ao Nang, I had to investigate further. Just as I came into the know, knowledge of this place propagates through simple word-of-mouth. A real mom-and-pop type enterprise, they do not advertise nor do they intend to. The garden doesn’t even bear an official name. You are simply getting your fruits and vegetables from “Jazz”, the vivacious lady that is one half of the husband-and-wife duo. And this perfectly reflects the attitude and overall objective of the garden and its owners, a project spawned from and for the love of sustainable agriculture, with a small business as a byproduct of that passion.

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“Aunty Jazz” - as she is sometimes affectionately referred to - and her husband Ray began their hydroponic project almost three years ago. As a retiree, Ray began learning and experimenting with Hydroculture and other sustainable gardening methods while the couple lived in Phuket. What followed from a few courses in Hydroculture, free televised public education and networking with other farmers and gardeners, was a series of experimentation that actualized into what is their blossoming garden today. A small operation, the garden mainly cultivates beds upon beds of vibrant Romaine, Iceberg, Green Oak (Butter), and


Arugula, among other lettuces. There are several variations and variables of hydroponics, but the garden follows two common methods that simply put, use a pump system to provide nutrients directly to the roots of the plants. Hence, the “ponics” part of Hydroponics, which is Latin for pump. Plants with roots in soil are essentially searching in the dark for nutrients. With a base of just water and nutrients, the plants don’t have to duke it out with the soil to get nutrients, so they can grow faster and actually yield higher quantities than soil gardening. Also, because a plethora of diseases and pests are found in soil, this medium significantly decreases - if not eliminates - the need for pesticides. In this case, Ray and Jazz do not use pesticides, even on their basil, which anyone who grows basil knows is a difficult task. If you are keeping tabs, that’s four points for hydroponics and a big fat zero for soil. Of course, the onus lies in their product and it is undoubtedly rich, robust, crisp, and verdant. And because they pride themselves in employing natural means to either fertilize or control pests and disease, you are assured that your produce really is clean, the way nature intended it. As Ray says, “I wouldn’t sell anything I wouldn’t eat myself.” In addition to leafy greens, the garden also boasts a variety of pungent herbs and delectable fruit. To my surprise, Ray and Jazz have a small avocado orchard. Yes. Avocados. In Ao Nang. I also picked my own loofah, growing from above like hanging squash, somewhere between the koi pond and the bunny paddock. Yes. Bunnies, too ya’ll. An endeavor of enjoyment, the garden is an undertaking derived from a passion for plants, and a keen awareness of the importance of clean, sustainable foods for wellness. Jazz and Ray relish in the challenges, the endless learning and the community relationships grown as a result of their burgeoning garden. Do what you love and love what you do. That is the true essence of this place. Your body is your temple, so worship accordingly.

If you’re interested in more information about the garden and possibly stuffing your food hole full of natural goodness, feel free to contact us at krabimagem@gmail.com.

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Meet the Locals Suwat Hannarong After raising the bar with the Mayor of Krabi in last month’s magazine, we decided to keep it right on up there with another of the province’s key players.

Suwat Hannarong is a legend in his own lifetime, and I’m not exaggerating here. Inventor, diver, paraglider, conservationist and all-round good guy, Khun Suwat is a much-loved and respected figure in the community. Quiet and unassuming with a surprisingly infectious giggle, Khun Suwat has built his success from hard work and determination. His achievements to date are impressive and very surprising! KM: Thanks so much for meeting with us this evening, Khun Suwat - can we start off by asking you how you came to end up here in Krabi. You’re from Bangkok originally, aren’t you? SH: Yes I am. My parents and I grew up with my brothers and sisters in a rural suburb of Bangkok. KM: Not many people may know this, but you are responsible for one particular invention that most people reading this will have used or seen in their travels. Can you tell us what it is? SH: Ha ha! Well, if you have ever stayed in a hotel or resort, you may have come across this. It was during the time of the first Gulf War and the rising price of oil had started to make the price of electricity very high indeed. I was thinking about how I could do something about this

and I came up with an idea. I devised a way for all of the electrical appliances in a room to be connected by one point in the room, and so could be turned on and off simply by placing the room key into a slot in the wall. So when you enter your room, you just place your room key fob into the slot by the door and the lights come on, TV is activated, air-con starts, etc. When you leave the room, you simply remove the key with it’s fob from the slot and everything in the room gets turned off. KM: Hang on - that was you? You invented that?? That’s amazing - what an accolade! You should be proud that you contributed so much to saving energy all across the world. Well done sir! While we’re on the subject, anything else un your inventor sleeve we don’t know about?

SH: Well, I was also involved in putting the machine that prints and develops photos together - you know, when you send off rolls of film to the pharmacy to get developed. The company I worked for as an engineer in Bangkok at the time was responsible for a lot of that technology emerging at the time, and I was fortunate enough to work on these kinds of projects. I started a company called EnerSaver that still works on


finding solutions like this - my sister runs that now. Thailand was one of the best places in the world for processing and developing 35mm fill in those days, with many movie companies sending their films here for us to process. Did you know that? KM: No, I most certainly did not! We are being well and truly schooled here! So how did you get into engineering? Did your family have a background in this and were you following in your Fathers’ footsteps?

reefs we have - but they are a small fraction of what they were like those years ago. Huge lobsters as large as your arm were everywhere. Maya Bay was filled with coral beds and sea fans were immense. Jacques Cousteau oncecame to Phi Phi Islands to dive around that time and he said that it was one of the best places in the world for scuba diving he had experienced.

SH: No, not at all! My parents worked very hard to keep us as we did not have a lot of money growing up. They were very industrious though and actually started to make and sell their own cosmetics, including toothpaste and shampoo. I remember that when I got home from school as a child, they would send me out again with a basket over my arm filled with bottles of these to sell door to door! KM:, No, I can imagine that’s not too high on a 9-yearold’s wish list. So how did you make the transition to engineering? SH: My mother pushed me! She was very determined that I get out and make something of myself and so off I went. I was fortunate to be employed by the Hitachi corporation in Japan, where my eyes were truly opened. It was a fantastic experience for me and I learned such a lot that I have kept with me to this day. KM: Got to love pushy mothers! They really do know best, it seems. Khun Suwat, you are well-known around Krabi for your connection to the scuba diving industry. How did you first get involved with this? SH: Well, I first came to Krabi 30 years ago on vacation from my job in Bangkok, as there used to be a fishing competition held here every year. At that time, all of Krabi, Ao nang, Phi Phi, etc. was just jungle and beaches that was home to many fishermen. I heard about this and came to see it, and it was so very beautiful - like a paradise - that I decided to come back again. I spoke to my Thai friends about Krabi, but no-one had heard of it or knew where it was! So I decided to create a travel and tour company to introduce Krabi to the rest of Thailand. I called it Sea Fan Travel and it is still going to this day. My very first tour group was 200 Thai people who all came to see Krabi for the first time! I was kept very busy indeed. KM: It would be amazing to see the underwater world here 30 years ago. What was it like? SH: Beautiful. The reefs were pristine. Many people who come here now for the first time are impressed by the coral

KM: Thats incredible. I would give my left arm to turn back the clock and experience that - but it’s great to hear the stories first hand like this too. So you started teaching diving afterwards? SH: Yes, I became one of the first Thai scuba instructors in Thailand and started up my dive shop, Sea Fan Diving, inside the Phra Nang Inn on Ao Nang Beach Road. After a while I moved everything up to Khao Lak, where I still have it there. Now, here, I have Ao Nang Scuba which has been going for many years now.

KM: Yes, we know it well as we were here several years ago as a part of Projects Abroad. You have been involved in marine conservation for some time as well, haven’t you? SH: I have - this house we are in now was the base for the marine conservation project set up by Projects Abroad several years ago - as you know. Now I run a few things from here, that keeps me busy! KM: Like what? SH: Well, I have started my own sort of volunteer project called “Volunteer Activities” that has people come here from all over the world to get involved in what we do. There is a focus on the ocean, and we take the volunteers out on our


dive boat to study the health of the coral, marine life and water around the dive sites here. Lots of net removal from the reefs, unfortunately, as well as marine identification and recording. To compliment this, I founded the Krabi Marine Conservation Club that is involved in rehabilitating injured marine life and trying to rebalance the fish stocks in the local area, as well as promoting and helping to conserve the health of the oceans here. I also have a home-stay facility too - like a Bed & Breakfast - where people can come and just stay with us for a while, enjoy some good food and hang out with others from across the world. It’s proving to be quite popular and I am flattered to have some people returning year after year just to stay here with us. KM: Sounds like you’re kept very busy indeed! Now, tell us please about paragliding. Once again, it seems that you were a forerunner in introducing this sport to the whole country. How did that come about? SH: Ha ha! Yes, well, it was when I was working in Japan

many years ago. I was first introduced to the sport there and I had never in my life seen such a thing! After trying it out for a while, I became hooked on it and soon became a passion of mine. When I returned to Thailand, I brought my equipment with me and everyone I knew thought I was crazy to be doing such a odd thing! I was apparently the very first person to fly a paraglider in Thailand. But I persisted an soon started up my own Thaiglider club in 1988. The club began to become more popular and it is still going to this day, which I am very proud of KM: You’re full of surprises, you are! Do you still get up in the air? SH: I do! Not as often as I used to, but I did manage to get up when I was in Switzerland a few months ago. It was beautiful and very different to Thailand! KM: You can say that again. You have been all around the world in your travels and it’s a pleasure to speak to you all about it today, Khun Suwat. Thank you very much for taking the time out to talk with us and we wish you all the very best in the rest of your adventures! SH: You are welcome!

To find out more about Khun Suwat’s activities, check his websites: www.aonangsuba.com www.volunteeractivities.org Or contact him on: suwat@aonangscuba.com or +66 7563 7863


Thai Natural Acupuncture Acupuncture is just one form of therapy used within the system of healing known as Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) which includes herbology, physical therapy, Tai Chi and Qi Gong. The intent of acupuncture therapy is to promote health and alleviate pain and suffering.

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n acupuncturist views health and sickness as forms of “vital energy,” “energetic balance” and “energetic imbalance.” Acupuncturists look at the flow and distribution of this “vital energy” within its pathways, known as “meridians and channels”. Acupuncture influences health and sickness by stimulating certain areas along these “meridians”. Traditionally these areas or “acupoints” were activated by fine, slender needles. Today, many additional forms of treatment are incorporated, including herbs, electricity, magnets and lasers. Still, the aim remains the same - adjust the “vitalenergy” so the proper amount reaches the proper place at the proper time. This helps your body heal itself. One day I received an email from a friend asking me if i was interested in joining them in India for a course in Natural Acupuncture .. The course was run by a spanish Professor called David Lujan,

who had moved away from mainstream psychology and TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine), to look at the relationship between imbalances in body and the effect on a wide range of common health issues. Prof. David studied under the famous Sri lanken acupuncturist Anton Jayasuriya who treated over 3.8 million people in 46 years.

Bifida take her first steps after only a week of daily treatments … doctors said she would never do this. Double stroke patients who had not spoken for months regained a few words after just 2 treatments, chronic pains, thyroid imbalances were relieved or changed or removed … again when nothing else seemed to be working.

Combining his expertise in psychology and its relationship with the health problems he was encountering in Sri Lanka, he realised that Traditional Acupuncture was now being used to treat mostly symptoms and not the underlying cause. Hence he created Natural Acupuncture.

As a group we treated back pains, knee problems, allergies, runny noses, ecemzma ...from the smallest problems to the most serious of illnesses.

The root of Natural Acupuncture is understanding that every disease and illness is simply a message which the body sends to tell us that something is out of balance and needs to change. The course ran in conjunction with a free clinic which helped over 2500 people ... the results using this method were unbelieveable. I saw a little girl with Spina

A wide range of people from all over the world attended the course, including medical doctors, energy workers, massage therapists, TCM Acupuncturists and all were amazed at the simplicity and remarkable results. After the success we experienced first hand, a few of us chose to regroup in the Krabi area to continue Prof. Lujans work . If you want more information on Natural Acupuncture or a treatment, please contact us: Thai Natural Acupuncture thainaturalacupuncture@gmail.com or call/sms 0870565406.


In Search of Magic Ink: Part One

by Emily Huang-Ramirez

When I was asked by the big boss to write a piece on bamboo tattooing, I ended up at a bar, with a pirate, drinking a tequila shake, wondering if that was what he had in mind. How I got there was unexpected, but certainly not unwelcome. Let me start from the beginning... BamBoo tattooing is undoubtedly popular in Southeast Asia, and Thailand remains one the most famous places in the world to have them done. The art is believed to have originated over 3000 years ago, during the Khmer period. One can appreciate the organic quality of using an ancient method in modern times, in addition to preserving a cultural experience. But perhaps unbeknownst to most visitors, its popularity runs much deeper than skin, paralleled with the historic tradition of Sak Yant. Anyone who’s been in Thailand has likely caught glimpses of the exotic tattoos emblazoned in black ink with Thai script and geometric designs. Sometimes these tattoos depict deities, sacred animals, or even mythical creatures. What is so alluring about these tattoos is the intention behind them. Although elegant and eyecatching, Sak Yant is of a magico-religious tradition with mystical purposes of bestowing powers, protections or good luck. A quick gander at the myriad tattoo shops in Thailand and you’ll likely see a plethora of Sak Yant designs plastered on the wall, waiting for a committed customer. Delving into the world of bamboo tattoos quickly translated into ferreting out everything there is to know about Sak Yant. It became apparent within the first few days however, that my search into this art would prove challenging. Sak Yant tattoos are normally done by wicha (magic) practitioners and Buddhist monks, and after chatting with a few local artists, they kept pointing towards Bangkok and the north. Being in the South of Thailand, a Khru Sak (tattoo master) is a bit scarce. So how did I end up at Mr. Long’s bar? Well, back to the bamboo tattooing, my friend Lene had casually mentioned that she was planning to get a bamboo tattoo while living in Thailand. I invited her to invite me, and a date was set. To say Lene has a few tattoos would be an understatement; her newest addition makes 23. Lene’s love for ink lead her to start taking permanent mementos from her extensive travels. And so I found myself at the tattoo parlor conveniently located within Mr. Long’s, watching as Beer (pronounced Bee-uh, with and without coincidence that he works in a bar), tapped a sharpened needle attached to a bamboo rod into her thigh in the design of an elephant. A really big elephant. Maybe a bikini wax with melted crayons and duct tape sounds more appealing, but I’m sure Lene would disagree. Having never seen a bamboo tattoo in progress, I was in awe of the dexterity it requires. Whereas a machine tattoo appears like writing with a pen, bamboo tattooing needs two hands: one hand pulses the rod into the skin, depositing ink with the sharpened, bifurcated end of the bamboo, while the thumb and index fingers of the other hand guide and stabilize. Albeit slower than machine tattooing, bamboo tattoos are said to be much less painful, and heal almost three times faster since the skin is only punctured, not torn. That also means little to no blood or scabbing.

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Like most artists I’ve come to know, Beer simply learned by watching and doing, without formal training except for the occasional practice on pigs. He admitted that his very first tattoo


was terrible, and I immediately pictured some very angry bacon. It’s safe to say he’s come a long way since then – seven years to be exact – and judging from Lene’s reaction, he’s quite good at it. As for how the pirate comes into the story, well, that’s just Mr. Long. He certainly doesn’t aim to emulate a pirate, but his luscious locks and affinity for headscarves might indicate otherwise. If Jack Sparrow were Thai, he’d be Mr. Long. It’s fitting that he was a barber in Bangkok for almost 30 years, which explains the great care he gives his tresses. He eventually gave up barber-dom and settled in Ao Nang with his family, opening up what is now known as Mr. Long’s. As his wife holds down the kitchen, his son Zeff and his best friends since primary school work alongside each other everyday. Not a bad set up. Mr. Long and his family are a constant reminder of what I love about Thailand – its people. When I first set foot in Mr. Long’s to watch Lene get inked, I distinctly remember Zeff casually inviting me to grab a soda out of the fridge if I needed it. My relationship with them had gone from stranger to someone worthy of trespassing the counter within minutes of our meeting. Mr. Long later told me that as a good judge of character, he had surmised that I was “crazy, but not stupid.” This coming from a guy who once fought a Muay Thai fight for some toothpaste. In the days after Lene’s six hour tattoo affair, I found myself repeatedly returning to Mr. Long’s, unable to avoid the pull of his smile and the warmth of his place. I wasn’t making headway on any Sak Yant leads, so I took a pause for the cause. It became synonymous with dropping by a friend’s house, with the bar portion feeling only like an afterthought. The most telling things of all have been the patrons, with arsenals of stories about Mr. Long and family, usually culminating in laughter and appreciation for his generous spirit. I’ve since spent many an evening getting to know Mr. Long, Zeff and his friends Beer (tattoo beer), Spy, Men and Beer (Muay Thai beer)…still with or without coincidence that there are two Beer’s working there. Interestingly enough, as I sat and chatted with Zeff one night, I learned that Mr. Long took him to a Khru Sak to receive a Sak Yant tattoo with oil when he was just a kid. A common practice for children, parents will oftentimes do this in belief that the powers that be would endow them with protection, and all the things in life a loving parent could wish for their child. According to Beer however, these days Sak Yant has become more of an accessory than a plight to control one’s destiny. What is not intended as simple decoration has become just that, even amongst Thais. There doesn’t seem to be an obvious explanation for this at the moment, other than the changing tide of time. Not long after my introduction to Mr. Long, I caught up with an old friend and somehow the conversation steered toward Sak Yant. Turns out, his personal spiritual guide/monk is a Khru Sak practicing the Sak yant tradition, and inquiring minds have been known to ride bikes to the temple and spend the night. He accepted my invitation for him to invite me to meet and learn from his master (see how I did that again?). Of course, I would not be able to speak to his master directly because I have lady parts and it’s forbidden, but it sounds like an adventure nonetheless. Manifestation at its finest. So my Sak Yant inquisition wasn’t a complete failure after all. With a new spot, new friends, and a promising new lead, the quest continues. Next month is going to be an interesting one...

Stay tuned In March fOr: Part deux

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To an American like me, Thailand is an amazing place and it is so different from the USA on both physical and cultural levels. In this beautiful “land of smiles” exists the toughest and arguably most dangerous sport on the planet - Muay Thai. There are several basic moves that everyone training in the sport needs to learn to become great fighter. Here are some of the well-known ones: 1. Superman Punches - These use the big knuckles of the fi st and are thrown like rocks to the nose of an opponent, with devastating results 2. Knife-Cutting Elbows - Called the “Knives of Muay Thai” with good reason, when they hit any part of the face or head, the skin splits easily. This is where the blood you might see in a fi ght comes from most of the time!

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3. Car-Crash Knee-Strikes Using the large knee bone in a full body strike with the hands clinching the neck of an opponent gives a tremendous amount of force to the midsection of the body. This knee strike is very subtle and does not look very powerful but it has been measured by scientists to match the same impact as a small car hitting you in the stomach.

4. Baseball Bat Kicks - There are many kicks in Muay Thai but the most powerful one is this body kick and it is a focal point of the fi ghts in the ring. Thailand is the only martial art in the world that has developed the shin bone of the leg to become like a baseball bat and then it is used to strike the lower-body. This is an incredibly eff ective move and many a KO has come from a well-executed kick like this.


What’s Next? Ok, so all the above moves are what you see in every martial-art movie, and they are essential to learn to become a great fighter - but there are also some lesser-known techniques that are used here in Thailand: 1.The Fighting Zone - This is all about moving your opponent into your fighting zone and then face off with each other. Muay Thai fighters will move in on their opponent to were they are standing right in front of them and then the battle begins! This takes a lot of practice as you have to know your own fighting distance and “reach” and then you must learn your opponent’s fighting distance. Whoever discovers the fighting zone first usually controls the fight and wins the battle. The more you experience and discover people’s zone, the better defence you have. 2. Embracing Fear - A popular saying in the USA is “no fear” and it truly applies to sports like Muay Thai. However, in Thailand, they simply embrace and accept that they are fearful. Such honesty is really refreshing to me because it is true. Anyone who steps into a Muay Thai ring should and will be fearful. This is one Muay Thai move that really hits the human emotions and the spirit of a warrior. In this fearful situation, a person can learn a lot about themselves. There are benefits from experiencing this fear and a person can learn to do many things even though they are fearful. The more you practice anything, the better you get at it, which is why I tell everyone to have fun with Muay Thai and get into the ring at whatever level you can because when fearful situations occur in life, you will find yourself with the ability to deal with them easier and more constructively once you have learned to “embrace fear”. 3.Fight with Royal Honor - Muay Thai was mainly promoted and brought up in Thailand through the ancient Kings. Many historical Asian warriors had high levels of honor and humbleness that very few foreigners know about and can actually practice while fighting. To me, this is absolutely the most important Muay Thai skill to learn and practice. I myself am 50 years young, having started training in Muay Thai 20 years ago and I am still learning this Muay Thai move! Thailand is the master at this and my favorite example of this is watching Thailand vs. Japan in the Muay Thai ring. Japan has a long history of mighty warriors but Siam is still the master of “royal honor” which equals being more humble than your opponent, calming your heart and being “sabai jai”. When you humble your heart to show “royal honor” to your opponent, you are able to see and feel their movements and thus you can counterstrike your opponent with knock-out force. If, however, you fight your opponent with anger, rage, violence and the typical aggressive attitude most fighters display, then you can not feel and move as fast as a person who can fight with “royal honor”. This, to me is truly unexplainable until you have experienced it. The way you can see me doing this is when I smile a lot and laugh while fighting in the ring. One of the pinnacles of achieving this “royal honor” is when you are able to fight your best friend in the Muay Thai ring and then win by KO!

Where creativity and culture floW hand in hand

TATTOO de cafe’

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Now those are truly amazing Muay Thai moves!

About the Author: Daniel C Docto aka khru “Doc” If you want to learn more about Muay Thai or even take a lesson Please feel free to contact khru “doc. docThailand@gmail.com cell 087-810-2177 www.facebook.com/MuayThaimissions www.facebook.com/docdocto

Professional tattoo artist - 15 years of experience - bachelors degree in fine arts. Operating under the name ‘Nut Tattoo Studio’ since 1998. New sterilized needles are used for each tattoo. Our Cafe has been open for 8 years and offers fresh coffee from our espresso machine. Serving American/English breakfasts, salads, sandwiches and house specials including: • ‘Khao Pad Plaa Salit’ (fried rice with salted fish and dry chillies) • Spaghetti with bacon and black olives • Fresh mango Smoothies

Fresh homemade ice cream and cake to order

Open every day 8:00am-9:00pm 081-929-4766 juraluksri@hotmail.com mirorynut@hotmail.com 274 moo2, Ao Nang, Krabi www.facebook.com/NutTattooAonang www.facebook.com/TattooDeCafe


+66 (0) 75 638 098, +66 (0) 819-797-89-5

info@wedding-in-thailand.com

info@krabi-spesialisten.com

Phi Phi Highlights & Sunset Cruise by JIWA, the “Bugis” sailing Yacht

Leaving Ao Nang at 09:00, our “Bugis” Sailing Yacht cruises directly to Maya Bay, the famous location of the movie “The Beach”. Since our timetable is designed to avoid the crowds, we will visit the bay just after lunch time when it is at its most peaceful and beautiful. Here you will have plenty of time to snorkel amongst the colorful reef fish and visit the beach. On the way from Ao Nang to Maya Beach you will enjoy a delicious Thai buffet lunch is served on board before we arrive to Maya Beach. After Maya Bay we continue on to view other highlights of Phi Phi such as Viking Cave, Hin-Klang, Phi Ley Bay etc., before our final stop of the day at Bamboo Island. Here you will have time to enjoy the tranquil and beautiful beach while it is almost deserted. Leaving the beach around 16:00, you will arrive back aboard the “Bugis” sailing Yacht, to find a refreshing cocktail punch, red and white wine, ice cold beer, soft drinks and canapés await you. Then we cruise slowly back to during the Sunset, while listening to relaxing music during the sunset cruise back to Ao Nang. On the return journey we pass Koh Poda, Koh Gai, & Railay, and you will enjoy Ao Nang by night, glittering and glowing in the dark, a final memory of an unforgettable day to take home. (Beverage including in the tour price: soft drinks, water and 1 glass of “Bugis” cocktail punch. Other alcoholic drinks are for sale on board during the day and sunset cruise) Itinerary 07:50 – 08:00 08:00 – 08:30 09:00 11:30 12:30 13:30 15:00 16:00-16:30 18:30-19:00

Tub Kaek Hotels Pick-up Klong Muang and Ao Nang Hotels Departure from Ao Nang Buffet Lunch served on board Arrival at Maya Beach Cruise around Phi Phi Ley, passing Viking Caves etc. Arrive at Bamboo Island for swimming and relaxation Depart Bamboo island for Sunset cruise, cocktails and canapés Arrive at Ao Nang beach and return to hotel


Krabi Spesialisten are well-known for the highest standards of quality and customer service they offer on their trips around the Krabi Province. Now they raise the bar even higher with their wooden sailing yacht, “Jiwa”. We boarded for a day of 5-star treatment as we headed for Phi Phi Islands...

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olks, you don’t need Captain Obvious to tell you that you are in the epicenter of paradise. And as many ways as there are to explore this land of bliss, Krabi Spesialisten is elevating the typical experience to one of adventure, style and luxury. Exceedingly charming staff, an epic sailing yacht and great attention to detail is Krabi Spesialisten’s magic formula for magic. Trust me, if they could serve you a cup of eagle’s tears atop a rainbow, I’m sure they would. I joined Krabi Spesialisten for a daylong excursion and sunset tour aboard the “Bugis”, a traditional Indonesian two-masted sailing yacht known as a Phinisi. Spanning 76 feet, this custom yacht affords guests ample lounging space on one of two decks, outfitted with a plethora of plush platforms for sitting, reclining, or all out sprawling with space to spare. As the day began and guests boarded the yacht, we were welcomed with coffee, tea and German chocolate cake as a warm welcome, setting the tone for a wonderful day of majestic views and culinary delights. The itinerary is carefully crafted to avoid as many crowds as possible. In keeping with this focus, we headed straight for Maya Bay to avoid the barrage of conventional tours, and explored the beach at leisure in relative peace. Unlike typical speedboat and longtail boat tours, riding aboard a Phinisi is quite smooth, and the elevated views on the top deck provide astounding seascapes of the Andaman and island clusters. Initially, as we returned to the yacht after our first stop, we were confounded with the service of soup… on a moving boat. But this was soon forgotten as we effortlessly cruised past Viking Cave and Hin-Klang, and dined on a bountiful Thai buffet for

lunch. Now, succumbing to food coma aboard a longtail boat is about as appealing as an airplane chock full of babies and fireballs. However, aboard a massive yacht, guests can easily enjoy a post-lunch nap, comfortably strewn across cushioned mats, imbibing the view and breeze as the yacht lazily cruises to Bamboo Island. It is this aspect that separates this excursion from the rest, as the journey has become equally as important as the destination. As an occupational hazard, I too was forced into a nap attack alongside the soundtrack of the ocean. Pure bliss. After an extended stay on Bamboo Island, most excursions come to an end, hurriedly heading back to the pier before sundown. However, capitalizing on the sunset is what makes Krabi Spesialisten so unique. Unbeknownst to guests as they amble around Bamboo Island, the yacht prepares for its final act – the sunset – with candlelit low-lying tables and bean bags galore. We were greeted with tropical cocktails and an exotic buffet of Thai and Western infused hors d’ouvres; we could not stop talking about the avocado inspired dishes! All the while, as we gradually returned to the pier, the sky was ablaze with remnants of the setting sun and a perfectly arced rainbow over Chicken Island. Hundreds or so photos later, I say well played. Well played, indeed. As fine purveyors of awesome, Krabi Spesialisten is sure to please. The Phi Phi Highlights and Sunset Tour is just one of a myriad of specialized trips, transfers and events on offer, with a commitment to quality over quantity. Hat’s off to you, Krabi Spesialisten. Thanks for a great day.


Into the Blue Krabi Wrecks Update 4 decommissioned ships from the Royal Thai Navy have been selected to be scuttled at Krabi dive sites to enhance the quality of the underwater environment by acting as artificial reefs. The knock-on effect will also attract more divers to the area, and we for one are very much looking forward to the whole thing - from the sinking to exploring the wrecks as they lie on the sea floor. The ships are to be taken by sea from Bangkok to Krabi, and this posed a problem for one of the vessels as they were to pass through the waters of Phang Nga. Apparently there was a “licensing issue” or the like with the name of the ship that meant it could not cross through, so it was denied passage. This has delayed the arrival a little - hey, remember where you are - but another ship has already been found to take it’s place. It is in the process of being cleaned right now and it is expected to be ready by the end of Feb. This means that - fingers crossed - they could be arriving here at the end of March. Check www.krabi-magazine.com for updates as we get them.

Krabi Tides February 2013

Andaman Freediving Competition 2013 Blue Planet Divers are once again hosting the competition, whch has 6 disciplines: 1. Constant Weight (Sea) 2. Constant Weight no Fins (Sea) 3. Free Immersion (Sea) 4. Dynamic (pool) 5. Dynamic no Fins (pool) 6. Breath hold (Pool) The Competition is held over 4 days: 9th February - Practice Day and Intro to Sea Competition at Koh Bida 10th February - Sea Competition at Koh Haa. Max depth = 50m 11th February - Practice Day and Intro to Pool Competition 12th February - Pool Competition The competition is sponsored by Aquamaster and Royal Lanta Resort and Spa who will provide the prizes for the competition. Entry costs 5,000 baht and you will receive a free t-shirt and maybe some goodies from our sponsors. Contact: blueplanetdivers@gmail.com or +66 (0)85 472 3450


Your guide to the underwater world in Krabi

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10

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L

oving Andaman Sea, an initiative set up and ran by local ex-pat Paolo Semperboni, has been hard at work these past few months. I should say “harder than usual”, as they are frequently out and about, doing what they can to keep the Krabi and Ao Nang area as clean and litter-free as they possibly can.

While beach cleanups and school visits are are essential aspects of keeping the area clean and healthy, the time had come to take it up with the big boys - those that make the decisions about where the bins should go, where recycling areas should

97% of people think

Abroad, set about trying to find out what people really think of Krabi. They devised a questionnaire and hit the streets to hand them out to all and sundry in an effort to gather as much information as they could from tourists and locals alike, with the aim of taking the results to the Krabi authorities so as to help develop and it’s essential protect the natural resources and change our environment, creating a sustainable tourist industry here.

This, as you might imagine, is no easy for us as individuals to task. There has been an “issue” here behaviour in order to reduce negative for some time with regards to the After collecting over 530 completed environmental impact. cleanliness of the place. During the questionnaires, the results make peak seasonal months of December be installed and what should be done about interesting reading. While the majority of and January, there can be a lot of garbage people could not disagree that the natural those who flaunt the laws they instigate. seen on the streets and in the ocean splendour of the limestone karsts, islands some discarded from locals, some from So Paolo, along with help from local and ocean are major highlights of a visit visitors, and even more washed in from to Krabi - there were several comments conservation volunteers at Projects far-flung places with the tides. on the overall cleanliness of the streets, beaches and roads in the area. “We found Krabi and Ao Nang to be beautiful and very clean. Keep up the good work” Australian, Female

1.5%

of people replied that environmental issues were of no importance to them at all

“More parking, more bins and improve the traffic” Thai, Female “Best place in the world” Indian, Male “Ao Nang and the locality is exceptionally beautiful. I take responsibility as a tourist to ensure my rubbish goes in the bin. I expect local businesses and tourists to do their bit in keeping Ao Nang clean. There should be days where volunteers are recruited for one hour to do a clean up! It’s fun for everyone.” British, Female

“Improve waste disposal, people should use less plastic like plastics bag in stores and such” German, Male

“Not so much plastic bags from convenience stores and more trash cans on the beach. Maybe let people pay when the police see them throw something on the side of the road or wherever” Holland, Female

“There is way too much plastic wrapping and Bags and not enough bins for tourists to use. Beaches should be cleaned. A very beautiful place and very relaxing stay.” Australian, Male “The government should treat the environment better and take care of their islands in a cleaner way” Spain, Male “How to reach the local Thai community is key. If the community wants a clean town, then it will be clean. Ao Nang needs to be a clean family” USA, Male

“Thai people need to be more aware of garbage. Reduce use of plastic bags” Canada, Female

“More garbage bins in the streets, more education on boats, too” South, Africa

“The rubbish on the beach should be cleaned more often and more bins are needed in town. Pot holes to be fixed” British, Female


Marina Yoga is a yoga facility offering a wide range of yoga styles for all levels and ages, including yoga for pregnant women. Set amongst a lush haven of palm trees and without a sound to be heard other than the voice of nature. Marina Yoga has quickly become the Yoga and Reiki destination for Ao Nang, Krabi. At Marina Yoga you will also find a range of services including instruction in the art of Yoga and Reiki. You yourself can become a teacher, trained and certified, in order that you might take your own personal experience and share it with others. Moxa, Shiatsu, detox, meditation are just a few of the other health services promoting holistic treatments with a range of healing opportunities to promote psychological wellness. Marina Yoga is now happy to provide their guests with cozy bungalows. Resting within lush, tropical surroundings, the bungalows provide a nice retreat for your relaxation, meditation and maintaining serenity. You need only take a few steps to enjoy your yoga experience. Customized packages are available to those inquiring. We look forward to seeing you soon at Marina Yoga.


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Life of Pi By Yann Martel Published by Walker Books ISBN : 9781406330267

Everyone likes to read a good book on holiday, so we take a look at 3 spankingly great reads this month that are perfect for whiling away your lazy days here in Krabi.

All area available through Asiabooks stores in Krabi

Pi Patel is an unusual boy. The son of a

zookeeper, he has an encyclopedic knowledge of animal behavior, a fervent love of stories, and practices not only his native Hinduism, but also Christianity and Islam. When Pi is sixteen, his family emigrates from India to North America aboard a Japanese cargo ship, along with their zoo animals bound for new homes. The ship sinks. Pi finds himself alone in a lifeboat, his only companions a hyena, an orangutan, a wounded zebra, and Richard Parker, a 450-pound Bengal tiger. Soon the tiger has dispatched all but Pi, whose fear, knowledge, and cunning allow him to coexist with Richard Parker for 227 days lost at sea. When they finally reach the coast of Mexico, Richard Parker flees to the jungle, never to be seen again. The Japanese authorities who interrogate Pi refuse to believe his story and press him to tell them “the truth.” After hours of coercion, Pi tells a second story, a story much less fantastical, much more conventional-but is it more true? Life of Pi is at once a realistic, rousing adventure and a meta-tale of survival that explores the redemptive power of storytelling and the transformative nature of fiction. It’s a story, as one character puts it, to make you believe in God.

Holiday

Reads

The Hobbit By J R R Tolkien Published by Harper Collins, UK ISBN : 9780007487295 A great modern classic and the prelude to THE LORD OF THE RINGS Bilbo Baggins is a hobbit who enjoys a comfortable, unambitious life, rarely traveling any farther than his pantry or cellar. But his contentment is disturbed when the wizard Gandalf and a company of dwarves arrive on his doorstep one day to whisk him away on an adventure. They have launched a plot to raid the treasure hoard guarded by Smaug the Magnificent, a large and very dangerous dragon. Bilbo reluctantly joins their quest, unaware that on his journey to the Lonely Mountain he will encounter both a magic ring and a frightening creature known as Gollum. “A glorious account of a magnificent adventure, filled with suspense and seasoned with a quiet humor that is irresistible . . . All those, young or old, who love a fine adventurous tale, beautifully told, will take The Hobbit to their hearts.” – New York Times Book Review

Starry River of the Sky By Lin Grace Published by Hachette Book Group, USA ISBN : 9780316125956 The moon is missing from the remote Village of Clear Sky, but only a young boy named Rendi seems to notice! Rendi has run away from home and is now working as a chore boy at the village inn. He can’t help but notice the village’s peculiar inhabitants and their problems-where has the innkeeper’s son gone? Why are Master Chao and Widow Yan always arguing? What is the crying sound Rendi keeps hearing? And how can crazy, old Mr. Shan not know if his pet is a toad or a rabbit? But one day, a mysterious lady arrives at the Inn with the gift of storytelling, and slowly transforms the villagers and Rendi himself. As she tells more stories and the days pass in the Village of Clear Sky, Rendi begins to realize that perhaps it is his own story that holds the answers to all those questions. Newbery Honor author Grace Lin brings readers another enthralling fantasy featuring her marvelous fullcolor illustrations. Starry River of the Sky is filled with Chinese folklore, fascinating characters, and exciting new adventures.


bare your sole

by Joe Alonzo

Photo Credit: www.prweb.com

For decades, people have developed many types of running technology. From leather sandals and moccasins to the newest synthetic material it’s all been done. But one thing will always remain true. Bare feet just seem to feel right.

W

ith the constant marketing pressures all around us to consume and always have the newest, latest and greatest of nearly everything, it seems difficult to try the exact opposite. But hey - why not be a salmon swimming against the current? Go naked, no shoes needed, only your natural soles to guide you over the sands and roads of Krabi.

It has been popular for centuries so why should it lose motion now? New studies in biomechanics are testing the physics of running shoeless and most are finding there to be many benefits; the first being the area on your foot where you strike the ground. Typically runners with conventional shoes will strike the ground with their heels sending shockwaves up through the runners ankles and knees and other joints increasing the chance of injury, but barefoot runners typically strike the ground with ball of their foot rolling through each step allowing their feet to bend and flex acting as natural shock absorbers. It’s a much more healthy and natural way to carry oneself.

On top of all the physiological benefits to running barefoot, there are also the simple benefits of comfort and a feeling of natural liberation. The feelings of gliding over the beaches of Ao Nang or Noppharathara (my personal favorite) as the sun dips below the horizon, puts you in a feeling of utter bliss. The sand spraying over your heels and ankles as the small sea shells message in-between each toe, running on the beaches of Krabi really is a “must try”.

Since most of us don’t walk or run barefoot much, our feet may be a little softer then the seasoned marathoner running barefoot through the streets of Krabi town, so there are some precautions to take into consideration. First off, start slow; don’t make your first run an all out sprint your feet need time to adapt to their new found freedom. Second, make the first few runs very short, no more than 1 kilometer and work up from there. Thirdly your feet will be sore after your run so don’t rush off to the doctors if your feet are in pain, it’s completely natural for your muscles to hurt when starting a new exercise.

After a few weeks of running barefoot, you’ll start to notice the large calluses starting to build up starting mainly around the ball of the foot and you might want to take your new activity to the next level, asphalt. The above rules still will apply - start short and slow and don’t worry about sore muscles. Running on asphalt is a little more challenging and will certainly take some time to get used to - but hey, what else do you have to do on vacation…?

56


New Kids on The Block TJ’s Sports Bar and Grill is the place you come and enjoy when you want to feel like home for a couple of hours. With 6 different TV screens and a huge projector wall, we can supply you with the game that you want to see. We have the possibility to help you with games that don’t air on Thai TV - just let us know and we will try to help you with it. Two nights a week we hold a “pub quiz night” with special prices in the bar. On the menu you will find all the “sports bar classics” with a touch of TJ’s. Our Swedish head chef, Oskar, provides only quality foods all the way from the easy starters to the magnificent desserts. With our 5 draughts and 30 bottles of different beers, we offer one of Ao Nang’s widest variations of beverages. Open every day from 12 Noon until late, with happy hour on all draughts between 5pm-7pm For more info visit our webpage www.tjs-krabi.com or email info@tjs-krabi.com Welcome wishes Hampus, Caroline and Oskar with staff (We also have Swedish candy and chips!)

075-637-119

info@tjs-krabi.com www.tjs-krabi.com

Open Daily

From 12:00 to Late

P.U.S.H Fitness Center is just what you are looking for when you want a good workout. With our easy understandable machines even those with no experience can come to us for a proper workout. We have got a great selection of free weights, pilates balls, TRX and much more. All our equipment is brand-new from one of the leading brands in Asia, BodySolid. We are open everyday from 7am – 11 pm. For more info please visit our webpage www.push-krabi.com or email info@push-krabi.com

WWW.PUSH-KRABI.COM INFO@PUSH-KRABI.COM

075-637-118

Open Daily 7:00 - 23:00


Secret Corner

T

he reputation of the delicious gelato and cakes ‘to die for ‘, precedes the new dessert bar on Koh Lanta. “Gelato”, for those of you not in the know, is Italian homemade ice cream. I was won over straight away by the hot pinkness everywhere, a/c on a sweltering day and the display of yummy mouth watering treats. The red velvet cake called out to me (yes cakes can talk) but I was more curious about the gelato. One of the friendly owners, Ivan let me try a few. Lychee sorbet, which was very refreshing and tasty, then it only took seconds to decide on the Ferrero Rocher, delicious! His girlfriend and business partner Kirsten likes to call him “Gel-artist” and I can see why. Ivan had been living in Koh Lanta for many years as a dive instructor, when he met his girlfriend Kirsten who had previously worked as a chef on luxury super yachts. Deciding it was time for a change he joined her, and together they travelled and worked around the world on some of the largest most prestigious yachts. They spent a lot of time in Italy where they fell in love with Gelato. I have tried gelato in Rome, I know exactly what they are talking about. Knowing that Koh Lanta was missing something similar, they returned and opened Two Scoops Gelato and Desserts. They wanted to offer something new and funky to the island, and focus on quality products, creating a “happy place” to visit, and I think they have. How can you not be happy in here? Its cool, modern, funky and its not just Gelato you can get here, there’s a whole lot more!!! Fabulous desserts fill the display cabinet.“Get out” my inner thighs scream at me, but I just

58

By Suzi Hall

can’t take my eyes of the luscious chocolate mud cake and carrot cake which scrumptiousness has been recommended to me. There must be at least 10 different types of cakes and desserts in there. Kirsten explains, that all of their products are made from quality ingredients; years of experience have taught her that you can’t have a top quality product with low quality ingredients, a great motto. That’s probably why they taste so good, and people keep coming back for more. They can make cakes to order for birthdays and special occasions. Recently Kirsten made a stunning wedding cake, all chocolaty and covered in love hearts. As I have no talent with baking, my fairy cakes are often solid, I can safely say she has expert talent and cares about her customers enjoyment!

And… just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, I found out that they also serve one of the best coffees on the island. Real Italian espresso, frothy cappuccinos and hot chocolate, it’s my idea of heaven. I can without doubt see myself returning here again, making any excuse to and possibly spending a lot of time in baggy trousers. So if you find yourself on Koh Lanta make sure you pop into Two Scoops and sample some of their tasty Gelato and Desserts. You can find them on the main road in Khlong Dao, on the left side from Saladan. Look for the big hot pink building, bright umbrellas and garden chairs out on the lawn, That’s them. If you need a pair of baggy fisherman pants, you can buy them in Saladan, just in case. Contact them on: 0897242791 or 0897241930


T

K

rabi Visa was set up by Krabi local Punch Whitfield when she realized there was a lack of services in Krabi for those needing honest, reliable, up-to-date information relating to immigration laws and the mysterious Ministry of Labour. Punch provides advice and administration services for all matters relating to work permits, visas and company registration. Each month in Krabi Magazine we look at a different immigration issue facing foreigners here in Krabi and what options you have with regard to working and living permanently in Thailand.

here was a new law passed recently at the Ministry of Labour. All passport photos for new work permits must now show the recipient wearing a collared shirt - no singlets, no t-shirts, not even a polo shirt. A buttondown, collared shirt is the only attire deemed acceptable when posing for passport photos to be glued inside the magic blue book. Now obviously this only applies to you boys - we girls can wear whatever we want ;). Now let’s take a look at what this law is really saying (screaming) - “We don’t like scruffy Farang and if you don’t dress nicely then we won’t help you”. Oh yes readers - I can hear the collective sighs of indignant scruffy Farang, but as you all know - they are holding all the cards and you are holding nothing but 3100 Baht and a sheave of paperwork. Now boys - feel free to disregard my advice for perhaps I’m wrong, but here are some hints that I think could be of value to anyone needing to visit either Krabi Immigration or the Ministry of Labour. Change out the singlet with a picture of a marijuana leaf for a nice clean (preferably ironed) shirt, leave the board shorts for when you get home and actually suffer the heat (I know it’s hard) with a pair of long pants, leave your flip flops by the door and put a pair of shoes on, have a shave, brush your hair, put on your best “I love Thailand and really want to stay here forever” face, and practice your “Sawaadii Krap”. Ladies - I was in the Labour Department just the other day where I came across a bewildered Philippino lady being ignored by everyone except the aforementioned Farang gentleman.

Who are

Krabi Visa?

He was able to offer little in the way of assistance however, though was blatantly admiring her low-cut blouse, tiny mini-skirt, 6 inch heels and sultry (but still bewildered) pout. I dropped in my half dozen work permit applications, chatted to the staff, used the copy machine, had a coffee, made some phone calls, filled in a few forms and was on my way before Miss Sexy Philippines and Surfer Dude Farang had even had their presence acknowledged. I did feel a little bad - but not much. So ladies - no, you don’t have to wear a button-down, ironed shirt, but turning on your brain and dressing like you are at a government office and not a job interview to be the newest dancer at Suzy Wong’s would be a pretty good idea. So to wrap this up - here is what I would suggest. Dress nicely, be polite, wait patiently, use whatever Thai you have - even if it is only “Hello” and “Thank you”, and act as though you have all the time in the world and don’t mind for the staff to finish Facebooking before actually doing their job and assisting you. That’s what I do and it works every time. Oh - and don’t forget to wai. Of course the best thing is to consult Krabi Visa before visiting either of the aforementioned, venerable institutions and get everything right from the start.

Next month we’ll be looking at the holy grail of visas - The Residency Visa - for those who are truly committed to The Land of Smiles and can stomach the 180,000 Baht fee for the honor of applying…….


Eat Like an

Egyptian f you have been in the Ao Nang area for a while, you may be aware of a place that has been making quite a splash amongst locals and visitors alike. With some of the most unique fodder and entertainment in the area, Cleopatra Restaurant and Shisha has fast been climbing the ranks in the restaurant scene in Ao Nang.

I

The last time we were there was at their opening party back in October of last year which was a resounding success. So we decided to head over for a bite to eat and see how they have been getting on since then. One of the great pulls of the place is it’s location - smack bang in the middle of the bustle of Ao Nang. Their openfronted facade allows tables and chairs to spill out onto the wide pavement,

offering one of the best opportunities for people-watching you are likely to find anywhere in the town. Cleopatra, as the name might suggest, is a restaurant that specialises in African cuisine. North African to be precise. The owner of the place - Sami - and his staff all hail from there, as well as the talented chef. In his home town at the tip of Africa he is known as one of the best in his

profession. Remembering the top class fodder we had at the opening night, I was hoping he was still on duty. If you think you have no idea what North African food is like, never fear - you

s if the food and ambiance weren’t enough, Cleopatra has another weapon up her sleeve in the shape of some of the best - and only - shisha in the area. Hookah pipes have been around for hundreds of years and they are an integral part of North African culture. Fruit is the focus here with a selection of concoctions that include watermelon, strawberry and even bubblegum! We opted for a weird but ultimately wonderful combo of grape and mint that is now my new favourite thing in the whole world.

A

If you are unsure of how to go about “shisha-ing”, never fear as the staff are more than happy to show you the ropes. They really are great fun if you have never tried them and a real conversation piece as we sat puffing away with our cold drinks and watching the world go by.

probably do and don’t realise it - much like ourselves after we looked through the menu. Think hummus, falafels, lamb, fresh herb salads and you get the idea. Kebabs, shawarma meat and freshly baked flatbreads are the order of the day here and judging by the aroma coming from the open BBQ and bread oven, we were in for a treat once again. As there were only 2 of us eating, we decided to go for a “mixed grill” so we could sample a little of each the meats that are on the menu. We left the choices up to Mohammed, the manager of the place who runs an exceedingly tight ship - and the results are impressive.

Soon enough, the food started to arrive and - holey schmoley - what a sight for sore eyes it was. We first got our juices flowing with some crudités - crispy vegetable sticks with a trio of dips along with an icy-cold beer to wash them down with. As we sat puffing, sipping and nibbling away, I was aware of a constant hive of activity going on all around us. It has to be said that there is no fear of an idle pair of hands at this place. The servers were constantly on the move - even if not serving. As soon as a table became vacant, they swooped - yes, swooped - and within a few seconds it was wiped clean, chairs straightened, fresh cutlery and napkins laid out and clean ashtray placed before they whisked themselves off somewhere else. Impressive. Especially the swooping. More plates began to land on our table. A basket of freshly baked flatbreads


that were still puffed up and steaming quietly to themselves was the first to arrive, followed shortly by a plate of mixed bites that was great for sharing. Fresh salad greens combines with feta cheese, crispy fried falafel with sesame seeds and home-made dips were perfect accompaniments to the breads and almost a meal unto themselves. But we would be foolish to fill up on this as the meats demanded our full attention. The platter that arrived next was filled with chunks of 3 types of meat. Steak and chicken pieces of a generous size had been marinated in rainbows and dipped in a leprechaun’s tears before being seared to perfection on the outdoor grill. Amazing, tender and downright delicious, if you need more explanation.

Alongside these there was also a stick of kofta meat that had been barbequed on a skewer until perfectly cooked. We were happy as pigs in muck as we worked our way through this lot, stopping now and again for a few puffs of the pipe and a sip of beer. It really is a very enjoyable way of eating, instead of sitting down in front of a huge individual plate and devouring in silence as it the way in a lot of other countries. With the authentic ambiance enhanced by the traditional music, it really is a place that takes you away from Ao Nang for a couple of hours and off to foreign lands. Foreign-er than here, at least. Cleopatra is unique in Ao Nang for it’s firstclass food, great shisha, wonderful service and friendly staff - and it’s open until 2am to boot. We have been returning here since it opened and, if they keep doing what they’re doing - plan to do so for the foreseeable future.

Check out Cleopatra on the road to the beach in Ao Nang, or call 082 415 1982. They speak English, French and Arabic. Email: cleopatra_krabi@hotmail.com


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Sabai Residence

Connecting Krabi Tour

NOPPHARAT THARA PIER, BOATS TO KOH LANTA, KOH PHI PHI, PHUKET

HOLD ME CLOSE Tsunami Memorial Sculpture

NATIONAL PARK

TO KLONG MUANG

ST.AGNES CHURCH

Mandawee

Ayudhya Suites

ts

Sabai Resort

I8

SO

Ao Nang Bay

Wangsai Seafood

TOURIST POLICE

BOATS TO PHRANANG & RAILAY BEACH

Luna Bar

iss

a Ch

let

Mercure

Sw

Lazy Pub

The Hiltop Restaurant

Thai Village Resort

CENTER POINT

PhuPimaan Resort

Spaghetti House

Cleopatra Restaurant

TJ’s Sports Bar & Starbucks P.U.S.H Fitness Center

McDonalds

Boat tickets

The L Resort

Boat tickets

n rma she t Fi a fe’ s C a t L Las The The

Ao Nang Villa

Krabi Heritage Resort

Peace Laguna Resort

BOATS TO PHRANANG & RAILAY BEACH

BEACH ROAD

Entertainment Bamboo Restaurants

Somkiet Buri Resort Taj Palace

Vogue Pranang

il

Centara Resort

Centara 2

AO NAMMAO PIER

KRABI AQUARIUM

TO SHELL FOSSIL

WEDNESDAY SATURDAY MARKET

TO KRABI TOWN

BOATS TO PHRANANG KRABI & RAILAY BEACH

AO NAMMAO VILLAGE

Ao Nang Mountain View

Vipa Resort

U&P Bakery

@AoNang Villas

Jungle Village

AO NANG SCHOOL

TO KRABI TOWN

MONDAY-TUESDAY FRIDAY MARKET

Spa korn l & Tour e saba Boos ang Trav Ao N

ev Red D

TON Company

Ao Nang Haven GH Ao Nang Paradise Resort Chandee Buffet

Smiling Dog Cafe’

Lai Thai Apartments

SOI 13

The Massaman

The Earth Cafe The Dive

Boat

le R Nood

rant estau

Emerald GYM Muay Thai Center

German Beer Gardern

Krabi Apartments

Glur Hostel

Pams Pub

1

I1

SO

Ao Nang Cliff Beach Resort

BOATS TO PHRANANG & RAILAY BEACH

The Longtail Boat

DAILY MARKET

Montessori Tattoo International de cafe' School Just Deli Alongkorn Language School

Krabi Consultants

Ao Nang Mosque

AO NANG VILLAGE

Fullmoon House

POST OFFICE

The Art of Yoga Ao Nang Whisky

Oceanmart t sor t Re SK Optik ng auran a Bernies N Krabi t Ao Res Resort n CENTER POINT Ba Luna Beach La Irish Rover Terrace

NIGHT FOOD STALLS

Lae Lay Grill AONANG Restaurant VIEWPOINT La Playa Resort

Baan Bandaley Krabi Spesialisten Carnivore Steakhouse AO NANG Centara Bussaba Thai Restaurant BOXING STADIUM

Palm Paradise Emerald Gardens ChaWan Resort Pavilion Queen's Bay

SATURDAY MARKET

Klong Haeng Mosque

Bergers

Cobra Show

SupsaengDao Resort

THURSDAY MARKET

KLONG HAENG VILLAGE

WALKING STREET MARKET ON WEDNESDAY

Ao Nang Gardens

Nadivan Apartm a en

Kitdee Media & Krabi Magazine

CTOP Nice Nature Homes Nice Day Resort

Tattoo de Café

Boat Restaurant

TO KRABI TOWN

Burger King

atin picy Garden

Ben Beach Bar

Aning Restaurant Ao Nang Beach Resort

TO KLONG MUANG

Hippy Bar

Azzurra Restaurant Jeanette's Restaurant


The Lagoon You may have heard the tales of a hidden path frought with peril that leads to a lagoon completely cut off from the rest of the world. Well, with more than a passing nod to an Alex Garland novel about a certain “Beach”, this one is as real as my left foot. We went to check it out...

S

ome years ago when I first came to Ao Nang, I had gone exploring with some friends on the peninsular of Railay - just a short boat ride from the mainland of Ao Nang and Krabi. Somewhere between the picturesque West beach and the not-so East side we had come across, what we thought at the time, was a fairly secret trail to a hidden lagoon. I had not been back there for years, but today seemed like as good a day as any to rediscover it. We decided to make a slight change in the original itinerary, and instead of taking the longtail taxi boat that leaves from Ao Nang, we would take a more adventurous option and get there under our own steam, or rather, sweat, by renting a kayak. The water was calm and still and it took only half an hour for us to paddle our way across from the west end of the beach at Ao Nang, to pull up onto the beautiful white sands of Phra Nang Bay. We had set off around 9, so there were still relatively few people around at this time. We pulled the kayak up onto the beach, well above the high water mark, and set off along the beach to find the little path that leads you from this beach to the East side of the peninsula. I noticed that they now have a handy map of Railay here, with places of interest marked out for your convenience. They had even marked the lagoon trail on it, towards which we headed. The path lead us directly beneath the looming, iconic limestone cliffs, where some locals were hawking their wares in the shade. It is much cooler here than out in the open and it is even possible to explore some of the small caves and walkthroughs that millennia of sand and wind had carved into the rock. About halfway along, we reached the starting off point to our hike - which is now easier to spot thanks to a small signpost - not to mention half a dozen people gazing slack-jawed up the side of the rock. There is a wooden shelter on the side of the path for you to gather yourself, take

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a drink of water, change your footwear into something ‘sensible’, and change your mind, if need be. We managed the first 3 and, taking a deep breath, we started our climb. Now the first time you see this, you would be forgiven for wondering exactly where you are supposed to begin. Yes, it is true that there is a signpost pointing upwards, telling of a viewpoint 200 meters away and the lagoon residing another 100 meters after that - but the

“The view is fantastic from here, and well worth the climb” sign is halfway up what seems like a wall of tree roots.

There is no real path as such, you just grab a root and pull yourself upwards. As the rock here is limestone, it is very porous and has over the years been worn into hand holds by the weather. This, along with the many branches and roots, makes it a fairly easy climb. Granted, it’s not easy for everyone, but if you enjoy climbing and hiking, it’s not so bad. There were a few others joining us today - we noticed a French couple below us and some Swedish boys up ahead - one in bare feet. Please be advised that flip flops and worse, nothing at all, could make the journey a little difficult, as well as painful. Soon enough, we reached a fork in the ‘path’ the left way pointed the way to the viewpoint, and the right, to the lagoon. We decided to have a look at the viewpoint first before attacking the descent into the lagoon, and we were not disappointed. The view is fantastic from here, and well worth the climb up. It is possible to see all the way across from Railay west beach to the east side, and everything in between. Especially on a day as clear as this, the blue of the sky and sea was just stunning to take in. After walking through some real IndianaJones-style jungle terrain for a while, we soon came to the first of 4 ‘stair-steps’ down to the lagoon. These are vertical sections of rock that need to be climbed down in order to reach the top of the next one, and so on until reaching the lagoon that lies at the bottom of the last one. Thankfully, some considerate and, quite frankly, death defying person had the foresight to attach some heavy knotted ropes at these sections to help us get to the bottom in one piece! We arrived here to find the group of Swedish boys looking nervously at each other and the bottom of the step, and back again. They guy with the bare feet looked like he was seriously wishing he had stayed on the beach, sipping a cold Chang instead… Pam went first, and as was her way on the rock climbing day we tried a few months


before, negotiated the first descent with ease, as myself and the Swedes looked enviously on. Now either I had taken a step forward, of the others had all taken a collective step backwards, but I somehow found myself next in line for the job. Peering over the edge, my stomach flipped over as I realised how sheer the drop would be if I slipped. I silently thanked God, Buddha and any other deity within earshot for my decision to wear trainers this day, and started over the edge. Holding onto the rope and looking carefully for hand and footholds, I was soon at the bottom of the first stage sweating now from the exertion and adrenaline. Pam and I grinned at each other and headed towards the second stage… The next stages were more of the same, and we came across

“We came across dozens of little sculptures” others coming up as we headed ever downwards - exchanging words of advice and encouragement to each other as we passed. We were enjoying ourselves now and looked forward to assessing the next descent and the best route to take to get down. It was no time before we had made it to the bottom and were rewarded with the sight of the lagoon. Now I have to be honest here, so as not to be hounded by

disappointed travellers who make it to this point. The lagoon is muddy. Very muddy. Red, thick, wet mud is everywhere. And when the tide is out, as it was today, there isn’t an awful lot of water, either. So please don’t be expecting a crystal clear pond of water for you to bathe in. (Also, as a side note, maybe think twice about wearing your new white shorts if you are doing this - the mud takes a good few washes to get out of clothes…) It is, however, still a beautiful place to be. The silence is, literally, deafening. You can hear the blood rushing in your ears and every tiny sound is magnified as it reverberates around the enclosing walls. As the lagoon is completely enclosed on all sides, the closest way I can describe it is to compare being in the crater of a volcano, looking up towards the sky. Only the quiet voices of our fellow climbers and the lone call of some unseen bird could be heard cutting through the thick silence. Having a look around the water’s edge, we soon came across dozens of little sculptures made by fellow travellers who had made it here days, months, or even years before us. They took the shape of faces, little figurines, snowmen, animals, and other more ‘interesting’ designs...As the mud here at low tide is very thick and gloopy, there is nothing easier than scooping up a handful and creating a personal masterpiece to join the others in the unending myriad of nooks and crannies in the rock. After Pam placed her newly born mud-man into his new home in the rock, we started back up the way we came. Strangely, going up the same way looked completely different to coming down, which added to the fun. We soon arrived back at the top and then carefully negotiated the climb back down the tree roots to the place where we started. Sweating, grinning and covered in red mud, we ignored the looks of some who had just watched us come apparently climbing from the top of a gigantic beanstalk, and headed back to the beach for a refreshing swim and a bite to eat.


Ao Nang - Our Secret Destination: Part One

“Ao Nang isn’t a destination, it’s an uninspired link in the transport chain (as the zillions of travel agencies in town will attest).’’

S

o it was written in the Lonely Planet about the most developed and most accessible beach town on all of mainland Krabi.

Ao Nang or Aonang Beach is a small town roughly 25 kilometres from Krabi International Airport and 16 kilometres from the heart of Krabi Town. Although the entire bay area covers an estimated distance of 15 kilometres or almost 20 kilometres when you also consider Railay peninsula as part of the whole geographical setup, Aonang Beach has only a short stretch of ‘beach’ road no more than 600 metres running parallel to the scenic view from the shore. On both ends of the ‘beach’ road, they run inland another 600 metres to form into a U-shape where shops, restaurants, bars, hotels and resorts make up the majority of the business. This as compared to the very famous Patong Beach in Phuket is a long shot away and is what gives Ao Nang its special charm along the stunning Andaman coast. A standard itinerary for visitors to Ao Nang would no doubt be a pick-up from the hotel in the morning for the many tour activities available. These may be island tours, inland tours, cooking classes, water-rafting, diving, kayaking, rock-climbing etc. Seasoned travellers would often opt out from engaging in tours to go seek out their own adventure by taking a longtail boat out to the nearby islands and beaches or rent a scooter to see where the

roads would take them. Full-day tours usually finish at about 4-5pm with the various tour operators ferrying their customers back to their respective place of lodging. A certain buzzy atmosphere can be felt during this time as the traffic gets busy. With guests back in the comfort of their rooms suffering from lethargy after a good day of fun and play, this makes for many to miss the magic that nature weaves. 5.30-6.30pm is the golden hour of Ao Nang’s biggest asset; the spectacular sunset over the bay. This can only happen of course if the weather was kind and is highly possible in the months from November through April of the tourist high season. A little homework shall see the well-informed head to the many secret spots within Ao Nang Bay in a fashion of savour. An evening meal, some sipping of cocktails or just simply a packed picnic are the tricks of the sophisticated. And if you are reading this article, you are either one yourself or on a journey to become one. So whether or not Ao Nang is a destination or just an “uninspired transport link’’, this remains to be seen only through selected eyes. By way of an issue at a time, Krabi Magazine unfolds as your window to more beautiful secrets of Ao Nang, Krabi and beyond.

by Andy Chan www.aonanghaven.com


TO: Phuket

Huay Toh Waterfall

Khaothong Terrace 4

Khao Thong 4033

TO: BigC, Tesco Lotus, Krabi Airport

Hong Nak Nature Reserve

4034

Ban Klong Son

Sofitel Phokeethra Resort & Spa

Elephant Camp

DONE Feb

The Beach House Restaurant

The Pelican

i

ha ai T nS

Ba

4034

Saitai Canooeing M

ah

ar ad

4202

KITDEE MEDIA&DESIGN

4203

Cobra Show

Ban Klong Muang

Ut

ta

Morning Market

Marina Yoga

Hemthanon

Nathai Resort Tharue

Rd.

Kaew grovaram temple

Boats to Phi Phi, Koh Lanta, Koh Jum Passenger Port of Krabi

Police s Krabi Thai Village

Long Tail Boats to Railay

Ao Nang

Mosque

Post Office Full Moon 4203

Pakasai Resort

Long Tail Boats to Railay

Th

Ban Ao Nammao Thip Residence

Ban Leam Pho

Ao Nang Villa

Long Tail Boats to Railay

Hong Naak Cape

it R d

Treansport Department Labour Department Krabi Immigration

Ban Nammao School

Klong Heang

Passenger Por Port of Ao Nang Boats tto Lanta, o Phi Phi, Lan ta, Phuket Phuket

The princess’ Residence

ra k

Rd.

Soi 1

Long Beach

Siew Bay

Krabi hospital Rd .

4204

@Sea Condo

Klong Muang Plaza

Law

Klong Son Temple

Nakamanda Resort & Spa Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort

Ananda Pools Desjoyaux Pools

Krabi Cart

Ban Chong Pli

Ban Chong Pli School

Natin Spicy Garden

The Krabi Sands Resort

Sai Tai Temple Thanee

ad Nathai Ro

Pong Cape

Nong Thale School

Villa Rattana

t Rd.

Elephant Camp

ki Uttara

Elephant Camp

Ban Tup Kaek

Sabai Ba Bar

. Rd

Ban Nong Thale

Nong Thale River Residence

KOH HONG ISLAND

Klong Muang Beach

d ra

4200

Tup Kaek Bay Beach Phulay A Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Bus Station

a ah M

Anyavee Tubkaek Beach Resort The Tup Kaak Tup Kaek Sunset Beach Resort

4

Frog & Catfish Restaurant

Hang Nak Nature Hike

Amari Vogue Resort

Gastropod Fossil Susaan Hoi - Shell Cemetry

Ao Nammao Bay



Koh Lanta highlights Lanta Old Town It was once called Ban Si Raya and was the commercial port for Chinese and Arabic trading boats that sailed between the ports of Phuket, Penang and Singapore. Today it is a village with a few rows of stilted shop houses home to an ancient community that was established on the island long ago. It is a picturesque place with Chinese timer shop-houses dating back 100 years, from the old days of sea trading. Near the shacks along the coast, local fishermen dock their longtail boats giving the whole scene a very Thai look.

Ban San-ka-u A sea gypsy’s settlement in south-east Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan of traditional Chao Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fast-developing island.

Ba Kantiang Beach Spectacular crystal–clear seawater and soft white sand, romantic sunsets in utmost privacy. This is why Ba Kantiang has come to symbolize a hideaway in Lanta for relaxing in natural surroundings.

Nature Because of its bio-diversity and richness of natural resources, Lanta is a good place for trekking. Explore limestone cave chambers and passageways in the Lanta caves, or walk upstream to the spring water waterfall where you can swim in cool rock pools.

Lighthouse on Lanta Located in Tanod Cape on the southernmost tip of the island, the lighthouse tower of Lanta is the perfect symbol of solitude. It is the place where immaculate nature still survives as it is rarely reached by tourists due to the rugged road conditions.

Eco-tours These are run all year round from the east coast of Lanta Yai, not affected by the low season rough seas. Make your way to Thung Yee Pheng village for a trip with a local community, or book a tour with friendly and experienced local companies.

Fire Dancing This is definitely one interesting part of the Lanta beach culture. A fire dancing show is usually performed by young boys performing twisting acrobatics swinging burning torches and ropes lit on fire around their muscular bodies. A distinguishing Koh Lanta National Park The park covers a marine area dotted with show that sparkles in the dark. several small sandy islands surrounded by coral reefs. The headquarters is located on the island’s southern extremity.


What to do? Scuba Diving & Snorkelling

Thai Cookery

You do realise that you are in one of the best locations in Thailand and beyond for diving, don’t you? Yes? If you did - good for you! If you already have your certification or never tried it in your life - you’re in luck. There are no fewer than 19 dive operators on Koh Lanta and most of them - if not all - will be qualified to take first-timers out for a fully supervised scuba dive. Trust me, as a diver myself - you won’t regret it! Dive sites nearby include the worldfamous Phi Phi islands as well as the Koh Haa archipelago - all of which are within

Thai food in the west is generally quite expensive, creamy and “toned down” in comparison to what you find in this country. Here, in contrast, it’s very cheap, plentiful and packs much more of a punch. Learning to cook authentic Thai food in Thailand is about as good as it gets, and many of the kitchens are open-air or even on the beach front - just to add to the experience.

easy reach. The price you pay will generally include all equipment rental, lunch, fruits and drinking water and as a bonus, the dive sites and boats will be much quieter at this time of the year.

eat everything you make too - so you don’t have to worry about what’s for lunch!

A lot of the dive operators speak a variety of European languages, so there’s a good chance you can get an instructor that quite literally - speaks your language. Check out our diving section “Into the Blue” for more information. If you’re dead set on staying well and truly within reach of the water’s surface, then no problems at all. Snorkelling is the way forward and many of the dive boats also welcome snorkellers on board as well as divers. This is great for families with children, where some members want to dive and others snorkel. Usually the operators will provide the masks, snorkels and fins, as well as a dedicated staff member to guide the snorkellers in the water.

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Classes are a great way to spend a morning or afternoon if the weather is a little wet for other outdoor activities, and you get to

Rent a Moped and Explore Mopeds are everywhere in Thailand, and Lanta is no exception. They’re cheap, easy to operate and are hard wearing - judging by the state of some I’ve come across that are held together with string and a prayer… In Saladan you can hire them absolutely everywhere. You might have to leave your passport with the rental agency, but don’t worry - this is standard practice. Everyone does it. It’s an insurance for them that you’ll bring the bike back, is all. As tempting as it might be (and it is!) to roar off into the sunset, laughing madly with the wind in your hair - don’t. Those that do often round a bend, collide with a passing goat and end up in a sobbing mess in the local clinic. Wear a helmet. That’s all. Simple, yet effective at prolonging your holiday to the last day

Bike fuelled and helmets on, the roads are yours to explore. Head south out of Saladan and you will discover another side of Lanta that is very different to the bars and restaurants of the north. Isolated beaches, rockier roads and local residents are all here, and the feeling you are stepping back in time is overwhelming. You will come across a junction after a while, with a right turn towards Klong Nin. This is filled with smaller beach-bungalowtype places to stay and similar bars & restaurants to match. Expect to find locals

lounging in hammocks strumming guitars and sipping cold beers. This is a good indication of how they do things here… If you don’t take that right turn, the road will turn into a winding, twisting hilly serpent that leads you to the east of the island, where the “sea gypsy” people have lived for 500 years. This is a very interesting part of the island, but visitors here should respect the privacy of these “Chao Ley” people and remember they are not a tourist attraction. That aside, they are a warm and welcoming people and are fascinating to experience. Remember to take a map with you just in case, and keep your eyes open for the “gasoline shacks” that dot the roadsides, just in case. Watch the fuel gage and you’ll be fine. Biking around Lanta is the best way to truly explore all it’s nooks and crannies, and you might even come across a few surprises along the way….


What to do? Koh Lanta Have a Massage If the thought of even standing upright is just to much congratulations: you have successfully integrated into the Lanta way of life. If you have reached this point in your stay here, then it’s time for a massage.

Probably one of the best things about getting a Thai massage in Thailand is it’s availability to everyone on any budget. You can choose to luxuriate in one of the breathtaking spas that Lanta has on her shores, or you can find a small massage hut somewhere. While the surroundings will not be on par with the spa’s, you can still get a great massage for a couple of hundred Baht, which can’t be argued with.

Only in Thailand can you engage in an “activity” while lying perfectly still for a hour. I love this country… If you have never had a Thai massage, you’re in for a treat. Unlike the more traditional notion of a massage, the Thai version does not use soothing strokes as it rubs scented oils into your tired body. Oh no. It uses a “pressure point” method that means lots of hard pressing, twisting, cracking of joints and squealing. That last part is usually from me. But it’s not anywhere as bad as it might sound - otherwise n one would do it. It’s invigorating and totally relaxing all at once, and after a hour of this, you feel like you’ve had a great workout and your body will be rid of any niggling aches and pains - I guarantee it. You can have it as hard or soft as you like - and your masseuse will usually ask you if the pressure she is using is ok for you, and will adjust accordingly.

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BUS TIMETABLE:

KAW KWANG BEACH

Lanta Diver main office

Passenger Ferry

Car Ferry to Lanta Noi & mainland

POST OFFICE

to Krabi every hour 6am to 5pm to Trang every hour 8am to 3pm to Phuket every hour 7am to 4pm

Kaw Kwang Resort

Minivan Station

SUNDAY MARKET

Blue Planet Divers Costa Lanta Resort

TO LANTA OLD TOWN

Laguna Beach Club

Lanta Diver

Mike’s Collection Eden Bar&Dining

Noble House branch

Lanta Pizzeria

Cafe’a

u Lait Deli

Lanta Diver

Southern Lanta branch Southern Lanta Resort

MARKETS:

Lanta Diver Ko Lanta Diving Center Blue Planet Divers The Frog

BAN SALADAN

Fix the girl

Lanta Car Rental SK Optik

The Retreat

Chaba Bungalows Maneelanta

Lanta Island Resort

Ban Saladan Sunday mornings Lanta Old Town Monday mornings NEED HELP ON LANTA? Tourist Police - 1155 Klong Nin Saturday Policemornings - 075 668 192 NEED HELP ON

Lanta Hospital - 075 697 176 Dr. Salarin - 075 684 522 Clinic in Saladan - 075 668 170 LANTA?

Tourist Police - 1155 Police - 075 668 192 Lanta Hospital - 075 697 176 Dr. Salarin - 075 684 522 Clinic in Saladan - 075 668 170

KLONG DAO BEACH

Minivans to Krabi/Phuket Congrit Resto

Everything Shop Ancient Realm Resort & Spa

Elephant Trekking

Time for Lime

Cooking School & Restaurant Holiday Villa Lanta Resort Lanta Sand Resort Funky Fish Indo Furniture Lanta Palm Beach

KLONG DAO BOXING STADIUM Lanta Tavern

Escape Cabins

Dreamy Spa I-Yarade Real Estate

Lanta Law Thanee

Layana Resort & Spa

Tides Restaurant

Lanta Casuarina Resort Dive & Relax Irish Pubs

PHRA AE LONG BEACH

White Flower Apartments White Flower Bajen Sports

Bajen Steakhouse & Nintendo Wii Minigolf

Lanta Castaway Resort Siam Pharmacy Lantanian Center

Desjoyaux Pools Andaman Sunflower

Red Snapper

Relax Bay Resort Lanta Diver

Lanta Manda Resort Faim de Loup bakery Bootshaus Retro Restaurant

Lanta Loft

Relax Bay branch Elephant Trekking

Sunrise Creek Villa Project Custom Homes

TO LANTA OLD TOWN & EASTERN ISLANDS Lanta Animal Welfare

KLONG KONG BEACH

Chaw Ka Cher Resort

Saneh Villas LPH Kirikan LPH Klong Kon Villas

TO SOUTH OF THE ISLAND

BUS TIMETABLE: to Krabi every hour 6am to 5pm to Trang every hour 8am to 3pm to Phuket every hour 7am to 4pm MARKETS: Ban Saladan Sunday mornings Lanta Old Town Monday mornings Klong Nin Saturday mornings NEED HELP ON LANTA? Tourist Police - 1155 Police - 075 668 192 Lanta Hospital - 075 697 176 Dr. Salarin - 075 684 522 Clinic in Saladan - 075 668 170


WINNER 2009-2011


Pulao satak, anyone? Koh Lanta, or Pulao Satak, the long beach island, as it was known long ago by its original Malay name, has been converted from a backpackers haunt into the newest up-market hotspot in the south of Thailand, although budget travelers still find plenty of space to cool their feet there.

Koh Lanta is situated in the southernmost tip of the Krabi province. It consists of two islands, Koh Lanta Noi and Koh Lanta Yai. Koh Lanta Noi is the smaller of the two islands and does not have tourist facilities. Visitors travelling by road from the mainland pass through the smaller island on the way to Koh Lanta Yai, the center of the tourist operations.

Hotels and resorts dot Lanta Yai’s picturesque 40 kilometers of coastline. Koh Lanta has something for everyone: groups, families, youngsters, divers. In Koh Lanta, it is the visitor who decides his own definition of island life, as there are activities for everyone’s taste.

Ban Sala Dan village, in the north of the island, is Lanta Yai’s commercial center and the pier where visitors arrive on the island. It is a row of shops, seafood restaurants on stilts, dive shops, tour operators, banks and guest houses that cater for newcomers on the island and serves as a sort of “capital town.”

The bulk of the beaches lie on the west coast of the island and can all be reached by road: Kho Kwang, Khlong Dao and Phra Ae all have long stretches of white sand facing the Andaman sea, while Khlong Khong, Khlong Nin and Ba Kan Tiang are all nice to relax and swim but might appear less stunning.

Way out East The East coast of Koh Lanta Yai is flat and has many local villages scattered along its coastline.

the commercial port for Chinese and Arabic trading boats that sailed between the ports of Phuket, Penang and Singapore.

Koh Lanta has a very diverse cultural mix of people who have lived on the island in harmony for hundreds of years: ThaiMuslim, Thai-Chinese and the original “Chao Ley” sea gypsies still inhabit the place in harmony.

Today it is a village with a few rows of 100-year-old stilted shop houses and shacks along the coast, where local fishermen dock their longtail boats giving the whole scene a very “Thai” look.

The largest town on the island, known as Lanta Old town, was once called “Si Raya” and was

On the east coast, one can also visit an old clan of sea gypsies in their own traditional village

where they try to preserve a disappearing way of life. Boat trips to Lanta are available during the monsoon-free period from October to April. May to November sees the closure of many of the island’s businesses, as well as the boat passenger services due to rough seas. A minibus service is the alternative way to reach the island via land.


Eating Guide koh lanta Seven Seas Wine Bar & Restaurant @ Pimalai Resort & Spa 99 Moo 5, Ba Kan Tiang Beach. Head south, turn right at the Klong Nin junction and keep going.

A truly stunning place that demands you stand slack-jawed as you walk into it. Open-plan everywhere - even the kitchen - with some of the best views you can hope to witness whilst enjoying your meal. Their chef is a talent to behold, and the food from the kitchens here is topnotch indeed. The restaurant and its show kitchen offer a comprehensive “a la carte” fusion style dinner menu which means that superior ingredients from all over the globe are marinated, cooked and served together on the same plate - generating a symphony of flavours. The presentation of the food is beautiful and it’s a feast for the eyes even before you pick up your fork. A wide-ranging collection of international wines has been assembled from which you can select an ideal accompaniment to your meal.

Average price: 400-900++THB What to Try: The Boeuf Charolais Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 6:30am - 10:30am & 3pm - 11pm Tel: +66 (0) 75 607 999 Website: www.pimalai.com

Tides Restaurant @ Layana Resort & Spa

272 Moo 3 Saladan, Phra-Ae Beach, Ko Lanta. Head South and look for the sign on the right side.

A formal restaurant perched on the very edge of the beach overlooking the sea and open to the cooling sea breezes. Guests have the choice of a cool interior venue or an al fresco beachside setting on the deck in front of the restaurant. Serving a mouth-watering a la carte selection of international dishes, as well as traditional Thai fare and seafood specialties all made from the freshest of ingredients. The chef, Khun Apichai, grows his own herbs in a beautiful garden right on the premises and the presentation of his food is straight out of a Monet. The menu quality is matched by an extensive wine list to compliment the food perfectly.

Average price: 400-900++THB What to Try: The Healthy Spa Cuisine Menu Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 6:30am - 10:30am & 11:30am - 6pm Tel: + 66 (0) 75 607 100 Website: www.layanaresort.com

Time for Lime - Fusion Restaurant

72/2 Moo 3, Saladan, Koh Lanta 81150. Head South and look for the sign .

This place has been one of the best little places on Koh Lanta since it opened it’s doors 7.5 years ago. Owned by Junie, a Norwegian who loves animals as much as her food, Time For Lime has become a haven for those who want to indulge in both of her passions. Her workshops in Thai cookery are legendary as she has a unique fusion style that differs from the usual Thai lessons you normally find. During her classes, expect to re-create dishes such as the signature Time for Lime soup, scampi wrapped in wild pepper leaves and even the wonderfully titled “sesame seed crusted barracuda balls with ginger on a bed of white radish & wasabi dip”. A great, friendly, laid back atmosphere is only accentuated by the jazz and chillout music that plays around the beachfront kitchen, and the homemade mojitos that come from here have been copied, but never matched.

Average price: 150 - 500 THB What to Try: The 6-dish tasting menu Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 5pm - 10:30pm Except Mondays Tel: +66 (0) 75684590 Website: www.timeforlime.net

Beachcomber Restaurant @ Lanta Castaway Resort 299 Moo 2 Phra Ae, Saladan, Koh Lanta,

If you’re searching for a laid-back, yet stylish beach-front dining experience , then Beachcomber is the place for you. The restaurant features a terrific menu selection and is best known for its authentic TEX-MEX dishes. You’ll also want to try the large selection of savory Thai, Western and Seafood BBQ dishes. The open-air restaurant is situated near the beach and there is also plenty of outdoor seating on the beach-front deck and in the garden. The atmosphere is relaxed, the staff is friendly, and the setting is beautiful with a lovely garden and a terrific view of Long Beach and the Andaman Sea. You’ll also want to enjoy a before and/or after dinner drink at our beach bar which serves up a wide variety of cocktails and delicious frozen drinks.

Average price: 250-350THB What to Try: The Tex-Mex food Free WiFi?: For bungalow guests only Opening Hours: Open daily from 7am - 9pm. Tel: +66 (0) 75684851 Website: www.lantacastaway.com


Healthy Holidays

By Suzi Hall

This month our resident Personal Trainer Suzi Hall gives her top tips for staying healthy and feeling fabulous during and post holiday!

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ou’ve been looking forward it for months and in preparation have been hitting the gym with dedication comparable to an Olympian. Finally it is here. You are on holiday and ready to show off your “beach body”. Strutting onto the beach, in your isty-bitsy costume of choice, you feel confident, sucking in your tummy and almost, wanting to kiss your ‘guns’. A few days later and post-happy hour cocktails, beer o’clock, ice cream time and some tasty creamy curries, the confidence is diminishing and that fabulous new holiday

skirt, jeans, shorts, body-con dress (delete as appropriate) just isn’t feeling as sexy. Now you understand why they sell those elastic, baggy trousers in Thailand. Hitting the pause button is vital when away from home but coming back not only with cheap, tacky souvenirs but an extra kilo is not. How many times do you find yourself thinking “it’s ok I’m on holiday” and regretting it on the plane home? I am the sort that always brings running shoes on holiday, I’ve ran around downtown

1. Walk everywhere.

Take a stroll at sunset or walk to the shop, restaurant or bar. Not knowing where places are results in relying on taxis or whizzing around on a rented scooter. Put a hat on, take some water and Get Going.

2. Limit treats.

They all add up, the pancakes and fruit shakes. Try to have one treat per day and if you have to give into dessert why not try the traditional banana in coconut milk with ice, at least you’ll be getting some vitamins.

3. Be wary of cocktails and buckets.

We sometimes don’t consider what we drink as part of our daily calories but especially in Thailand be wary, sugar is added to everything. A bucket can set you back over 400 calories so unless you’re on a liquid diet, be cautious.

4. Take care of your skin.

The sun in Thailand is strong, even through the clouds. Cover up and wear sunscreen constantly, nifty moisturisers now have integrated SPF, a must for protection. The effects of sunstroke are damaging and can leave you feeling unwell, nauseous and dehydrated.

5. Try something different.

Krabi is famous for rock climbing, Railay and Tonsai beaches being the most picturesque spots. The whole area has a plethora of diving spots to feast your senses on and plenty of diving shops where you can embark on day trips or get PADI certified. Not forgetting the country’s famous national sport, Muay Thai. Many gyms offer beginner classes to get your gloves on and pound out all the stress you’ve built up sunbathing. Emerald gym in Ao Nang and Lanta gym both have professional reputations.

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Boston at 6am, along the red sea at sunset, the sandy paths of Santa Fe, the blistering heat in Turkey and presently the snake, red sand and motorbike ridden roads of Koh Lanta. You can’t beat the positive feeling of exercise during and after, so why not incorporate that into your holiday? These are my top tips for a healthy holiday, as a result not only will you feel great while away but return home the honed Adonis or Aphrodite that you arrived as, plus a nice perky tan to show off.

6. Yoga.

A great way to benefit your body and mind, fortunately there are a wealth of classes in Krabi. In Ao Nang The Art of Yoga offer dynamic classes, including aerial flying yoga. Koh Lanta is buzzing with yogic retreats; Relax Bay offers fantastic Vinyassa style. The Sanctuary boasts a beautiful beach shala and both places situated in idyllic surroundings where the sound of the waves washes over your practise.

7. Swim, bike, run.

You can do them in that order and have your very own triathlon! Or the saner option; when in the sea rather than splashing around do some swimming, then rent a bike for the day and explore or take in the stunning beaches at sunset. It’s my favourite time of day to run.

8. Drink gallons of water

Carry a bottle with you at all times, good signs of adequate hydration are needing the loo regularly and your urine being clear. Cocktails and beer do not count towards keeping hydrated. Electrolyte sachets are a good idea after physical exertion as they replace salts lost in sweat or when recovering from a bucket, beach, bar night.

9. Massage

Take care of your muscles and have a treatment to rub out all the aches and pains from the previous day of cycling. Massage can also hep release built up toxins.

10. SWEAT!


SUZIHALLPT ‘Take with you anywhere’ exercises: Beginner

Intermediate-Advanced

Warm up; short jog or step-ups for 5 mins.

Warm up; jog 30 secs and sprint 30secs on the spot 5 mins.

Exercises: 3x10 repetitions and plank up to one minute.

Exercises: 50 reps of each, 30 secs of sprinting in-between

Lunges:

Triceps dip:

. From standing position step forward and lower your body. . Keep ankles, knees and hips in a 90-degree angle. . Keep torso upright and shoulders back

. Using a bench, hands facing forward, elbows parallel . Bend knees, back close to bench . Lower until elbows at 90 degrees

Squats:

Planks:

. Sit back simulating sitting in a chair . Knees not over feet, trying to lower yourself to 90 degs . As you rise up squeeze your bum.

. Elbows staked under shoulders . Tuck toes under . Lift up through your abdomen and hold the position, breathing throughout.

Press-ups: . Military or on knees, body straight from point of contact with feet to head . Hands out wide at chest level . Lower and rise, exhaling on the exertion

Photo by Adam Butler www.geckophoto.com


DID YOU KNOW....

Our profits are donated to the charity LANTA ANIMAL WELFARE So.. come Learn, Eat & Drink your hearts out! AND FEEL GOOD

Cooking School thai & fusion Restaurant Beach Bar

Fun & Professional evening Cooking Classes on the Beach Front

HAPPY HOURS 3 - 6 pm On our FAMOUS Cocktails

FANTASTIC 6 dish Tasting Menu that changes every evening

Bungalows

8 cozy air-con & fan

9 years with Quality & Funky Atmosphere Closed Mondays

KLONG DAO BEACH - KO LANTA Tel: 075 684 590 www.timeforlime.net


Koh Jum Island - Plugged In but still unplugged Story by : Jeffrey Dietrich

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oh Jum Island is still the quintessential destination in Krabi province if you are looking for authentic Thai village life and development that is still a small footprint on this tranquil island. Geography brought electricity to Koh Jum late in 2009 as the island was in the direct path of the new underwater electric cable connecting Koh Phi Phi from the mainland. So now that Koh Jum is plugged in, has it lost its reputable unplugged character that has attracted intrepid travelers over the past couple of decades? We are pleased to report that Koh Jum is as tranquil and laid back as it always has been. In fact, what is noticeable are the lack of noisy generators at most of the resorts. Folks come to Koh Jum to unplug; the island’s nature and culture still dominates the minimal tourist infrastructure. The

existing resorts on Koh Jum all have their own family run character ranging from the back packers paradise Bo Deng run by two laughing souls, Dila and Rosa, all the way up to the stunningly beautiful Koh Jum Beach Villas, an eco villa resort with exquisite villas tucked in an incredible botanical garden. Koh Pu Mountain is the dominant geological feature on the island at over 400 meters. A great hike for the adventurous and a vital refuge of native habitat still harbouring Asian Pied Hornbills and Burmese Pythons. The three villages, Koh Pu, Ting Rai and Koh Jum are situated on the back side of the island amongst the mangroves. Resorts are located facing the open Andaman Sea. This division allows the villages to remain authentic without any significant tourist infrastructure while

the resorts are all located on the beaches. Access to the island is by longtail taxi boats located on the mainland port town of Laem Kruat. There is now a songthaew you can take direct from Krabi Town to Laem Kruat. During the high season most visitors come to Koh Jum using the Krabi – Koh Lanta Ferry that stops at two locations on Koh Jum out at sea where long tail boats come out to meet passengers to take them ashore. The lack of any deep ports on the island keep the ferry boats out at sea and also prevent large masses of tourists from ever overcrowding the island. Getting here is an adventure and this ends up defining the interesting community of resorts and visitors that have made this island their home and the place they return to year after year.


Getting to Koh Jum Getting to Koh Jum can be very simple or a bit of a nightmare - all depending on how much you know about getting there. This is where we come in - we decided to make the journey ourselves and tell you exactly how and when to get there with the least amount of hassle. There are 2 ways you can get to Koh Jum - by passing ferry or longtail boat. There are ferries that leave from Koh Lanta at 8am and Krabi at 11am, which will stop as they get alongside Koh Jum and longtail boats will come and take you the rest of the way. Koh Phi Phi also has ferries leaving at 2pm that operate on the same principle. The second way is to get to a place called Laem Kruat and take a longtail boat for 40 mins to the island, and this is what we decided to do. If you are driving, it takes about 1 hour to get from Ao Nang to Laem Kruat. You just head

to Tesco and continue until you see the large overhead signs that tell you to turn right for “Koh Jam”. This road will lead to to the small locality of Laem Kruat, where you will find a large pier. If you don’t have transport of your own, you can catch a blue and yellow “sawngthaew” the local bus that has benches in the back. It has the words “Krabi, Bus Station, Tesco, Big C, Laem Kruat” written on it, which is easy to spot. This will leave from all of these locations at intervals throughout the day and will take you to the pier. Now, the pier is a bit misleading. We waited at the end of the pier before realising the longail taxis were passing us by and docking at the mainland. We went back and followed our noses along past the shops until we saw a slipway with goods and people being unloaded. It was the second slipway we

needed to get to “Moo Too”, the place on Koh Jum we were being collected from. If you know the name of the pier on Jum you need to get to, just ask anyone in this area and they will direct you to the correct boat. We got on and soon we were chugging along through the mangroves with a boat full of happy local Muslim women that looked as if they hadn’t changed a bit since 1925. We arrived at Koh Jum 45 minutes later, paid our 70 Baht fare each and were taken by “Taxi” (a battered old pickup truck) through the winding dirt track until we reached our destination resort Give it a go and you will see a different side of Thailand from years gone by - well worth the experience.

Koh Jum Koh Jum, also confusingly called by it’s other name of Koh Pu, is actually named after the 420 meter high mountain that dominates the horizon of the north part of the island. Located midway between Krabi and Koh Lanta Yai, 25 km from Krabi Town, Koh Jum is predominantly a large Muslim populated sub-district of Krabi and is home to 1,500 inhabitants that live in three tiny fishing villages. The locals of these villages engage mostly in fishing, rubber cultivation and the local craft of cloth weaving as cottage industries. While the north is mountainous, the south comprises dense jungle, cashew nut trees, rubber plantations, casuarinas and nipa-palms. The string of beaches on the west coast has several simple, wooden bungalow resorts and a community of private beach homes sitting among the palms, each offering sunset views over the silhouettes of the Koh Phi Phi archipelago. Koh Jum is ideal both for young travelers who want to rest their

bones after some hard backpacking and for families with kids, looking for a worry free holiday in a place where children can run and swim in complete safety. Nature is at your feet there, and if it’s serenity you’re after, you can’t go wrong. Electricity just arrived in Koh Jum only relatively recently and some smaller resorts are still powered by generator. Progress is imminent and already in motion as more resorts and restaurants look set to open up soon. Getting There There is a ferry terminal about 35 - 40km south of Krabi town, in a place called Laem Kruat, that can take you to the islands, the last one departs at around 3pm. It costs around 50 Baht per person. Another option is to take a ferry directly from Krabi or Koh Lanta. This might be an easier and more reliable option for most people. A new ferry service has started from/to Koh Phi Phi Islands. A short stop into your nearest travel agent will furnish you with the latest times and tickets for your journey. Contact the resort you wish to stay at for assistance with transportation.



The Customer is Always Right

If you own a holiday home in Krabi, you already know the appeal of this area, needs-led approach to hospitality has meant improved and our ability to be flexible and respond to individual guest’s needs but have you considered that your second home could allow you a second income? customer experience for guests of Krabi Riviera luxury has helped us keep - and expand - our customer base.

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villas

The holiday house concept has come a long way since the days of self-catering “gîtes”, barely furnished rustic homes, where you had to bring your own sheets, and were essentially left to fend for yourself in a foreign country. Nowadays, serviced villas are the norm but, as can be expected from such a booming trend, the quality of such properties varies enormously. Krabi Riviera brought the concept of luxury holiday villas to Krabi more than 10 years ago, combining the international five star hospitality experience of director Pierre-Yves Loriers, with the natural warmth of Thai hospitality. Though they now have many imitators, Loriers describes how the company has stayed ahead of the competition: “Over the years, we have invested a lot of time and money into honing the services we provide, through staff training and constantly taking on board guest feedback. I think the combination of happy employees

“We also consistently innovate to improve our services, for example when we introduced a tuk-tuk service for all villas, after we recognized that many guests wish to dine out, or go shopping and it is not easy to do so here without proper transport.” Krabi Riviera now has a total of four tuk-tuks (open minivans) and drivers to provide complimentary transfers to the beach area, meaning the service can be truly “on demand”, even at peak times. Cleaning is another priority area. “We are very aware that in a beach environment such as Krabi, and particularly with young children, villas can quickly build up mess,” says Loriers. “We provide daily cleaning and try to do so in the most efficient and least disturbing way possible. All maids are professionally trained and use proper equipment. And upon arrival, we check with guests which time of the day would be most convenient for housekeeping to visit, so that minimal disruption is caused. This also applies to our pool care and gardening staff.”


Food can be a major concern when deciding to stay in a villa – there is no hotel restaurant where you can conveniently have meals. Krabi Riviera offers a number of different solutions. Loriers explains: “when it comes to meals, there is no single approach that would suit all of our guests: they are individuals, after all! Firstly, all of our villas have fully equipped kitchens, many with state of the art appliances, as well as proper dining areas, so that guests can prepare their own food, should they wish. We can help with grocery shopping and delivery and we have a wine list as well. As Thai tap water cannot be drunk, we make sure all villas have a constant supply of mineral water and ice. So the basics are there for everyone. “But if guests don’t wish to cook, we provide an in-villa private Thai chef. She will come with her assistants and prepare an agreed upon menu, as well as serve and clean up afterwards. The chef is well-acquainted with foreign palates and can prepare food with any amount of spice. Breakfast is another meal that we can deliver at the time of your choice. “For international food, the villa manager can help guests to order meals for delivery from many beachfront restaurants – or of course, the guests can go directly there to eat in the complimentary tuk-tuk!” Krabi Riviera’s “villa managers” act very much like personal concierges. They are there to assist guests whenever required – they do not loiter around the guests’ private space, but can be called at any time, using the villa mobile phone provided on check in. Whether it be arranging sightseeing excursions, recommending a good tailor, or calling the in-villa massage service, these English-speaking ladies will be happy to help. To make the holiday as smooth as possible, Krabi Riviera also offers a “meet and greet” service, with complimentary round trip airport transfers from / to Krabi Airport, to ensure every detail from the start to the finish of your stay is taken care of

INVESTING IN PEOPLE Krabi Riviera has just hired two new staff to add to its hospitality team. Miss Wararat Buteed (Sara) is a Guest Relations Officer, responsible for liaising with customers, both prior to arrival, to make sure everything is in place for them and accommodate any special requests they may have, and also during their stay. A recent graduate from Dhurakij Pundit University in Bangkok, Sara is a Krabi native and knows the area very well. She has previously worked as a receptionist in a local hotel. A new Housekeeping Manager, Ms Arissara

To find out more about Krabi Riviera properties take a look at: www.KrabiVilla.com We can be contacted at: 084 154 08-08 or 075 695-633 or by email at: info@KrabiVilla.com

Kulmat (Meaw) brings more than 15 years of experience working as part of housekeeping teams in five star hotels, most recently at the Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort. She will not only provide important training for her team of six cleaners, but make improvements in their organization, in order to increase productivity and efficiency.



Tabien Baan Tabien baan or Thai house book is the official local government issued house or apartment address and resident registration booklet. It is an administrative document issued by the local municipality. T he persons having their domicile or legal residence at the house or condo unit are registered in the house book. Contrary to what is often assumed by foreigners this document has nothing to do with ownership of a house or condo and cannot be used as proof of ownership. It is a booklet issued by the local municipality (not the land department) that belongs to the official papers of a home or condo and its practical use is that it registeres and proves a persons place of legal residence (official domicile). A house book could state the name of the owner but in the case of a foreign non-resident

owner not (unless he has official recidency in Thailand) issued by the local immigration office, or when he is the owner a condominium unit title deed in combination with the (empty) blue tabien baan and his passport. In case of a foreigner owns a house (seperate from the land) or condominium the blue house book is usually empty, unless he has Thai nationals living with him who have their permanent home at this address.

Thailand has 2 types of house book The blue Tabien Baan (Thor.Ror.14) for Thai nationals

The yellow Tabien Baan (Thor.Ror.13) for foreign netionals

House book application A house book can be issued for a house, condominium appartment (whether registered under the Condominium Act or not). The official house book for Thais is the blue book and for foreigners residents a yellow book. A blue book is standard issued but in case of a foreigner it can be exchanged for a yellow book if the foreigner meets specific criteria. The documents required for the application of a yellow book vary per district or location, but the could include: • • • • • •

A non-immigrant visa Work permit Marriage certificate Apartment unit title deed The official land office sale of a structure document Building permit.

The bue or yellow tabien baan is not an important document for foreigners and most foreigners owning a condominium or a house (separate from the land) will have a (empty) blue house registration book and not a yellow book. The legal value for foreigners is very limited and generally there is no need or requirement to exchange a blue tabien baan for a yellow tabien baan. A yellow book does not confer any additional rights. However, foreigners married to a Thai national living in Thailand should have their name in the house book of the marital home and the could, but do not need, get their own yellow book. For Thais a house book’s primary function is that it states his or her place of legal residence (permanent home).

THANEE ATTORNEY & COUNSELOR AT LAW

E-mail: info@thaneelaw.com www.thaneelaw.com

INTERNATIONAL LAW OFFICE STANDARDS YOU CAN TRUST

- Legal advisory - Project management - Company formation - Work permits - Visa and immigration - Business contracts and licenses - Wills and testaments

- Tax and accounting - Real estate expertise - Litigation and dispute resolution - Notary public - Marriages and divorces - Insurances - Mortgages


Nong Thale River Residence

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Custom designed villas & holiday rentals

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Quiet and spacious residential area Near Ao Nang beach and entertainment Krabi International Airport 25 kilometer Spacious plots 1100-1600m2 Custom built villas Quality materials Environment aware construction Project management and rental service Good accessibility for seniors Opportunity to experience on site before buying

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4034 Krabi

4024 Klong Muang

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info@kamalot-ltd.com

+66 (0) 818940675

Kamalot

Co. Ltd. Land & Development

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Reddit?

T

he Akha are probably Thailand’s most visible ‘hill-tribe’ group and nowadays you certainly don’t need to go anywhere near northern Thailand to come across them. The sight, and sound, of an Akha woman with a wooden frog will be all too familiar in any of the country’s tourist hot spots, from Phuket to Khao San Road in Bangkok, and Ao Nang has not been left behind. These Little ladies of the colorful Akha hilltribe wander the Ao Nang streets with elaborate colored hats adorned in silver beads, selling handmade crafts and wooden frogs. They are persistent and ubiquitous, and are dabbed the “businesswomen of the hilltribe community”. Many of the younger Akha women are very smart and savvy, speaking better English than many professional guides. Akha villages are to be found in the mountains of China, Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and Northern Thailand. There are approximately 20,000 Akha living in Thailand’s Northern provinces of Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai at high altitudes. In order to supplement their income, many Akha are now selling handicrafts, employing the traditional skills used in making their own clothing and cultural items. Those in the tourist trade stock up on trinkets in their home villages and bid to seek their fortune in tourist destinations. They walk the beach road looking for prey to corner. They usually tap your shoulder, meet your eyes and perform the insistent simulated croaking, until you become the proud owner of the noisy wooden replica reptile. The simple tactic of these merciless ladies is to perform the wood scraped against wood action, which echoes the mournful cry of the humble frog. Declining the offer makes no difference on frog ladies. They have time, a lot of it, and a serene and needful smile, and stand there while the croaking sound bores into your mind, slowly, relentlessly, to make you crack and buy that frog. You don’t want a noisy wooden frog? You will be presented with a hat that resembles

anything but a hat. In fact, you are better off buying the frog. Once you have bought that frog (because you will), you need to start using it and joining the army of frog croackers. Remove the stick from the frog’s mouth, draw it lightly over the ridges on its back, you will proudly make that very frog-like croaking sound. Croaaaaak! Hand-carved in Thailand, these beautiful frogs are made from non-endangered wood: raintree wood (the most popular), mango wood, or jackfruit wood. Modern croaking frogs look more similar to the real frogs than their predecessors. And if you regret buying it in the end, they make for a nice present once you get back home, or for a dust collector trinket in your cabinet that forever reminds you of that night out!


Praying for Rain by Dararai

T

hailand is an agricultural country. Most Thai people in the rural areas grow crops especially rice for a living. Their fate inevitably depends on the falling of rain that will give life and freshness to their crops. The farmers will greatly suffer if there is drought. So they turn to have faith in beliefs that can alleviate their worry, prolong their hope and give inspiration to them. That is why there are various kinds of ceremonies of praying for plenty of rainfall, different in forms from region to region. Due to the climate of the north, northeast and the central regions of Thailand, which is dry in the hot and the cool seasons, ceremonies of praying for rainfall are held in these regions. Stories and legends about three such important ceremonies, viz. the Tradition of Cat Procession, the Rocket Festival and the Phi Ta Khon Festival, are presented below. The central region has the ceremony of parading a female cat to pray for rain. According to an ancient belief, the cries of a female cat could draw a rainfall. So the heart of the ceremony is when people throw water at the cat to make it cry a lot. In preparing for this tradition, a selected beautiful female cat is put into a thinly woven bamboo basket. The colourfully dressed farmers in a village will form a procession to parade the cat around the village. When walking, they will joyfully dance and sing a

song with the lyrics asking for a rainfall enough for feeding their crops. The procession will pass from one house to another. Villagers staying in their houses when hearing the approaching procession will prepare a bowl of water and then splash it on the cat while the members of the procession will express their gladness as if it were really raining and say, “Rain is falling. Rain is falling. A lot of rainfall. Our rice fields and the grass are all green now.� It is believed that if any house owner whose house the parade passes by fails to throw water at the cat, the cat will get angry and instead of calling rain for the farmers will use magic powers to prolong the drought. The ceremony ends after the procession has passed every house in the village. Similarly to the central region, the northern people rely on the cat in asking for a rainfall. The cat is released into an enclosed area around which are placed earthen dolls of elephants, horses, cows, buffaloes, frogs, bull frogs, etc. Also included are sacrificial food and drinks and flowers. Villagers are required to observe either the Five or Eight Buddhist Precepts for three days beforehand. Then a number of Buddhist monks are invited to chant sutras while the villagers pray for plenty of rainfall.  www.ThaiwaysMagazine.com



Путеводитель по

краби

ПЛЯЖИ Ао Нанг находится в 20-ти км от города Краби и является одним из самых развитых пляжей Краби, с белым песком и отвесными скалами. Ао Нанг предлагает широкий диапазон услуг для проживания и сервиса. На главной улице есть рестораны, бары, пабы, магазины сувениров, дайвинг-центры, туристические агентства, массаж и СПА центры. Ао Нанг является отправной точкой для путешествий на лодке по морю на близлежащие острова. Пляж Ноппаратара протяженностью 3 км. находится за пляжем Ао Нанг. Этот пляж все еще мало развит и имеет всего лишь несколько ресторанов и баров. Привлекательный, естественный вид пляжа собирает по выходным местную молодежь и их семьи насладиться закатом. Попробуйте местные мусульманские сладости в “макашницах”, которые расположены в конце пляжа. Также, насладитесь морепродуктами в местных ресторанчиках, которые находятся у офиса национального парка Ноппаратара. Во время отлива, пройдитесь по набережной, вместе с миллионами маленьких крабов, по песчаной косе до ближайших островов. Пляжи Рэйлэй разделены от Краби и Ао Нанга большими известняковыми горами. У полуострова Рэйлэй есть 2 стороны, Восточная и Западная, которые просто восхитительны: кристально чистая вода, песчаные пляжи, дикие горы, скалистые острова выступающие из моря. Рэйлэй находится в 15-ти минутах от АоНанга

и в 30-ти минутах от города Краби, вы сможете добраться до него только на лодке . Насладитесь коктейлем в одном из пляжных баров, посетите пещеру “Прананг” проверьте себя на курсах по скалолазанию, поднимитесь на вершину горы, и спуститесь в лагуну или просто расслабьтесь на пляже. Соседний пляж Тонсай “Tonsai” распалагается в основании скалы и разделяет Рэйлэй на Западную и Восточную часть. Это небольшой, красивый пляж с пологим дном. Пляж Клонг Муанг находится в 20-ти км. от Ао Нанга, и в 40 км от Краби. Это новое место с развивающейся инфраструктурой, в котором вы сможете провести великолепные выходные. Именно здесь вы получите незабываемый отдых, в окружении девственной природы. Пляж Туб Каек (Tubkaek) - это еще один чистый, спокойный пляж, в котором можно оставаться в дали от цивилизации. С него открывается потрясающий вид на архипелаг островов Хонг (Koh Hong) и очаровательные закаты. С пляжа, вы можете дойти до национального парка и подняться на вершину горы и посмотреть водопад. На пляжах Ко Ланты (Koh Lanta) огромное количество курортов на любой вкус и достаток. Остров Ланта Яй (Lаnta Yai) славится длинными, белыми, песчаными пляжами переходящими в изумрудное море. Гуляя, по южной части острова, вы можете наткнуться на уединенный райский уголок с высаженной тропической растительностью.

ПРИРОДНЫЕ ИСТОЧНИКИ Известняковые горы и отвесные скалы характеризуют местность Краби, а наиболее зрелищным и массивным является Сай Тай (Sai Tai). Не далеко от Ао Нанга (Ao Nang) есть уникальное геологическое место - Сюзан Хой (Susaan Hoi) “кладбище ракушек” . Плиты у побережья моря, напоминающие куски старого, потрескавшегося асфальта, на самом деле – плиты, спрессованные из остатков древних моллюсков, чей возраст более 40 млн. лет. Территория кладбища ракушек была в доисторические времена пресным болотом, на дне которого тысячелетиями накапливались ракушечные отложения. Впоследствии, болото пересохло, а останки его обитателей теперь виднеются на поверхности в виде песчаных плит 40-сантиметровой толщины. К кладбищу моллюсков примыкает живописный мангровый лес, в котором проложены специальные туристические тропы. Крупнейший природный парк провинции Краби Као Пханом Бенча (Khao Phanom Bencha), находится всего в 20 км. от города Краби. Этот Национальный парк является домом для множества редких растений и диких животных, среди которых леопарды, пантеры, тигры, тапиры и гиббоны. Гора Phanom Bencha (1350 м.) является территориальным и туристическим центром всего заповедника. С горы сбегает 5 водопадов, крупнейший из которых Хуай Тох (Huay Toh), расположен всего в 500 метрах от входа в парковую зону. Еще одной популярной туристической


карбоната кальция. Вода в пруд поступает из горячих источников и имеет в разных местах разную температуру от 25°С до 49°С градусов. Здесь можно поплавать, полежать и отдохнуть душой и телом. Термальный источник Хот Спрингс в Клонг Том (Hot Springs of Klong Thom) представляет из себя смесь водопада с парной под открытым небом. Вулканические горячие ключи нагревают поток до 30°С – 40°С, превращая водопад в естественную сауну, вода в которой, к тому же, насыщенна полезными минералами.

достопримечательностью заповедника является пещера Tham Khao Pheung, украшенная живописными сталактитами и сталагмитами. Национальный парк Тарнбок Корании (Tarnbok Khoranee) находится в северной части региона, состоит из известняковых гор, зеленых тропических лесов, пещер, и красивых островов. Хорошо известен различными видами деревьев, растущих вокруг большого природного кристально чистого бассейна, и более сотен видов птиц. Пещерный комплекс Пи Хуа Тох (Phi Hua Toh) расположенный в районе Бор Тора (Bor Thor), состоит из нескольких пещер, каждая из которых уникальна. В некоторые из них, вы можете попасть на лодке, только во время отлива. Здесь вы сможете полюбоваться потрясающей красоты сталактитами и сталагмитами, древнейшими наскальными рисунками и следами доисторических поселений. Са Маракот (Sa Morakot) изумрудный бассейн. Это чудо природы, пруд с бирюзовой водой, питаемый горячими источниками в центре джунглей. Берега пруда представляют собой желтоватый камень, такой цвет ему придают отложения

ОСТРОВА Отправьтесь на остров Ко Пода (Koh Poda), который покрыт пальмами и почти полностью окружен мягким белым песчаным пляжем. Коралловый риф находится примерно в 20 метрах от пляжа с богатым разнообразием морской жизни. Также, вы можете посетить соседний остров Ко Кай (Koh Kai) или “Куриный остров”, который получил свое название от необычной формы скалы с одного конца острова, которая выглядит как голова и шея страуса или курицы. Одна часть острова состоит из крутых скал, другая имеет красивые пляжи. Теплая и чистая вода острова с богатым миром кораллов является популярным местом среди любителей снорклинга и дайвинга. Оттуда можно прогуляться по песчаной косе до острова Ко Туб (Koh Tub). Можно взять тур на лодке или на катере до архипелага островов Ко Хонг. Это группа островов из известняка со скрытыми пещерами и лагунами, которая идеально подходит для каякинга и подводного плавания. Возьмите тур на острова Ко Пхи Пхи (Koh Phi Phi) с живописными морскими бухтами, окруженными потрясающими известняковыми скалами, устремленными в небо прямо из океанских глубин, в пещерах гнездятся ласточки, вокруг богатый подводный мир, насыщенный морской жизнью, и многое, многое другое. Посетите острова Ко Джам (Koh Jum) и Ко Сибойя (Koh Siboya) скрытые от глаз человека, наполненные тропической растительностью и уникальной природой. Эти острова дают посетителям возможность расслабиться и прекрасно провести время. Также посетите остров Ланта (Lanta) в южной части провинции, который сейчас активно развивается. Ланта также является домом для морских циган, где вы сможете увидеть их традиции и познакомиться с их укладом жизни. Национальный парк включает в себя много различных островов, окруженных коралловыми рифами, такие как Ко Нгай (Koh Ngai) и Ко Рок (Koh Rok). КУЛЬТУРА

Текс переведен и отредактирован: Шинарита Стоун

Бан Натин (Ban Natin) - это место находится по пути из Ао Нанга (Ao Nang) в Клонг Муанг (Klong Muang), где вы сможете увидеть мирную жизнь местной мусульманской общины. Вы можете приехать туда на несколько дней или просто остановиться и посмотреть на изделия ручной работы. Музей Ват Клонг Том (Wat Klong Thom) главный исторический музей провинции Краби. Доказательством того, что провинция Краби была одним из первых мест на карте современного Тайланда, где возникли человеческие поселения, служит этот музей. В нем выставлены различные артефакты, найденные во время археологических раскопок. Экспозиция музея включает в себя доисторические каменные и бронзовые орудия, образцы древней керамики, монеты, предметы прикладного искусства и старинные кровати, возраст которых превышает 5000 лет. Огненное шоу, это часть пляжной культуры и очень популярно в вечернее время суток на пляжах Ко Ланты (Koh Lanta) и Пхи Пхи (Phi Phi). Невероятная хореография, удивительный рисунок танца и множество завораживающих глаз моментов делают шоу с огнем просто незабываемым. Бан Санг-Ка-Ю (Ban Sang-Ka-U) место проживания “морских циган” на юговостоке острова Ланта Яй (Lanta Yai). Именно там живет старый клан В-Лей (v Ley) пытающийся сохранить исчезающий образ жизни в этой быстро развивающейся части острова. ГОРОД Очаровательный, маленький, тихий город. В Краби много старых зданий, баров, ресторанов и местных экзотических рынков с продуктовыми лавками на старой пристани Чао Фа (Chao Fa), там вы можете отведать блюда местной кухни. Девиз Краби: “Прекрасный город, Прекрасные люди” местные жители Краби гордятся своим городом и своим теплым и щедрым характером. С пирса Чао Фа (Chao Fa) можно отправиться на лодке до главного природного символа города Као Нам Канаб (Kho Nam Kanab) – 100-метровые скалы-близнецы расположены по обе стороны реки Краби и являются своеобразными водными воротами в Краби-таун. Также посетите остров Ко Кланг (Koh Klang) расположенный в устье реки, где вы сможете проникнуться жизнью местных рыболовных общин, и побывать в мангровых зарослях.


топ

10

Лучших мест

для отдыха

Провинция Краби является раем для тех, кто любит солнце и ищет удовольствие, а также это одно из лучших мест в мире для скалолазания, дайвинга и каякинга. Журнал Краби предлагает вам топ 10 видов отдыха, которые стоит попробовать здесь, в Краби: КАЯКИНГ Это очень популярное занятие в Краби. Мангровые леса, пещеры и, конечно же, пляжи, дают много возможностей для каякинга. Ао Нанг и Рэйлэй пользуются большей популярностью, так как находятся близко и до них удобно добраться. Если же вы хотите больше приключений и хотите познакомиться с красивейшими местами провинции, уголками девственной природы и их обитателями, то отправьтесь в тур в Ао Талэин (Ao Thalane) или в Бор Тор (Bor Thor), которые находятся в Национальном парке Тарн Бок Корани (Tarn Boke Koranee). Пещеры, гроты и лагуны, сделают ваш день незабываемым. ВАТ ТАМ СУА (Wat Tham Suea) Храм «Тигровая Пещера» ВАТ ТАМ СУА (Wat Tham Suea) — одна из интереснейших достопримечательностей Краби. Храм расположен прямо под сводами пещеры. С вершины горы, в которой распалагается пещера с храмом, открывается потрясающая панорама на окрестности. Однако, чтобы попасть туда, вам предстоит преодолеть 1237 ступеней. В этой пещере археологами были найдены многочисленные древние артефакты, ныне хранящиеся в музее. А в пещере можно увидеть отпечаток ноги Будды и его величественную статую. Объедините поездку в Храм с другими достопримечательностями, например посетите еще Са Маракот (Sa Morakot) изумрудный бассейн или местный рынок. ЗАКАТЫ Основной достопримечательностью пляжа Ао Нанг (Ao Nang) и Ноппарат Тара (Noppharat Thara), конечно же, являются закаты . Муссонные дожди приносят тучи, которые зловеще нависают в небе над морем, создавая незабываемые закаты. Самая красота складывается из непостижимого и величественного “рисунка” подсвеченных облаков. Чем более “размазаны” облака по небу и чем более невероятны их формы, тем красивее закат. БАРЫ И МОРСКИЕ РЕСТОРАНЫ АО НАНГА И НОППАРАТ ТАРЫ После вечерней прогулки, завершите день бокалом коктейля в одном из баров на пляже или порадуйте себя ужином с морепродуктами. С правой стороны


пляжа Ао Нанг находится улочка с ресторанами, где блюда из морепродуктов представлены в большом разнообразии или вы можете попробывать местную рыбную кухню в самом конце пляжа Ноппарат Тара. СКАЛОЛАЗАНИЕ ПЛЯЖ РЭЙЛЭЙ (RAILAY BEACH) Пляжи Рэйлей (Railay), Тонсай (Tonsay) и Прананг (Phranang) находятся на полуострове в Railay Bay совсем рядом с Ао Нангом и по праву считаются одними из самых красивых мест в Таиланде. А первоклассные маршруты для скалолазания на многочисленных скалах делают это место настоящей “Меккой” для скалолазов со всего мира. Практически на всех пляжах острова есть богатый выбор вулканических скал, по которым проложены 700 маршрутов разной степени сложности. И профессионал, и новичок в скалолазании найдут здесь подходящую скалу, магазины альпинистского снаряжения с доступными ценами или пункты проката, а также опытных инструкторов, которые смогут гарантировать безопасность во время занятий. РЫНКИ Как и во многих восточных странах, в Тайланде особое место занимают рынки. На местных рынках можно купить свежие овощи и фрукты, живую рыбу и различные морепродукты, мясо, яйца, одежду и обувь. Любой человек, пришедший сюда, моментально попадает в пестрый круговорот ярких цветов и запахов, доносящихся с прилавков уличных торговцев едой. Обычно, рынки работают со второй половины дня, когда солнце уже не сильно печет, примерно с 3-х часов дня, и до часов 7 вечера. Посетите рынок в районе Клонг Хенг на Ао Нанге, который работает по четвергам и субботам.

минералами и природными солями. Чуть дальше есть Голубое озеро, поражающее цветом своей воды, им можно только любоваться и наблюдать, как из-под земли бьют горячие источники. АРХИПЕЛАГ КО ХОНГ (KOH HONG) Ни одно посещение Краби или Ао Нанга не будет полным, без поездки на острова Ко Хонг (Koh Hong) это потрясающая группа островов расположенных у побережья Краби (Хонг в переводе с тайского - “комната”) Пляжи Ко Хонг никогда не перестанут удивлять кристально чистой водой, большим количеством разнообразных рыб у берега, и белоснежным песком на пляже. В скалах можно обнаружить узкий проход в закрытую бухту, внутри которой, вы сможете увидеть мангровые деревья, уходящие своими корнями в воду.

СА МАРАКОТ (SA MARAKOT) Изумрудное озеро Са Моракот по праву считается изюминкой Краби. Вода здесь прозрачна в любое время года и меняется в зависимости от времени суток и угла падения солнечных лучей. Дорога к Изумрудному озеру великолепна: тропинка ведет среди переплетающихся лиан, плутает в ровных зарослях бамбука, теряется между деревьями, радует порхающими разноцветными бабочками и юркими ящерками. И вот за деревьями появляется Изумрудное озеро с целебной водой, насыщенной Текс переведен и отредактирован: Шинарита Стоун

МЕСТНАЯ НОЧНАЯ ЖИЗНЬ На Ао Нанге имеется большое количество баров, ресторанов и ночных клубов, рассчитанных на все вкусы. Однако Ао Нанг хорош и своей демократичностью: местные цены доступны практически всем, причем качество блюд, напитков и обслуживания от этого не страдает. Стильный бар «Last Fisherman» настоящий эталон пляжных баров. Бамбуковый навес, столики на песке, звезды, отличная музыка – что еще нужно для счастья? Барный комплекс Central Point распалагает несколькими залами, в которых звучит живая музыка и всемирно известные хиты прошлых лет. На Ао Нанге очень много пивных баров и ирландских пабов, где подается недорогое, но хорошее пиво и всевозможные закуски к нему. Стоит отметить, что, несмотря на то, что нравы в Ао Нанге более сдержанные, чем в Паттайе или Бангкоке, все же любители “клубнички” смогут побаловать себя, познакомившись с доступными девушками. Они работают в местных гоу-гоу барах, расположенных на улице Сой Салай (Soi Salai). Пляж Ноппарат Тара, порадует вас колоритнейшим баром «Хиппи» и ярким пляжным баром Luna, в котором имеется великолепный танцпол. ЛОДОЧНЫЕ ТУРЫ В МАНГРОВЫЕ ЗАРОСЛИ Это интересное путешествие для любителей экотуризма. Манговые заросли, которые окаймляют побережье различных островов, создают каналы с лабиринтами. Во время прогулки на лодке, можно увидеть и посетить множество интересных мест: удивительный лес мангровых зарослей, пальм и лиан; скалистые острова с гротами и пещерами; большие и маленькие каньоны, где обитают красивые тропические птицы. Отправиться в это незабываемое путешествие можно со старого причала Чаофа (Chaofa).


Medium

Hard

sudoku

crossword

Solutions

DOWN 1. Water barrier 2. Sense of self 3. Caveman’s time (2 wds.) 4. Unbroken 5. Belonging to us 6. Wind direction (abbr.) 7. Freon and oxygen 8. Adjoin 9. Extra 10. Nights before holidays 11. Take five 17. Fruity refresher 19. Rushed 21. Circle segments 22. Gather crops

ACROSS 4. Electrified atom 7. Player 12. FBI employee (abbr.) 13. Cloistered one 14. Over 15. Cow’s comment 16. Values deeply 18. Gun owners’ org. 20. Loathe

21. Long-distance prefixes (2 wds.) 25. Nuclear ____ 26. Soft belt 30. Pen 31. Skirt border 33. Flat bread 34. Went fast 35. North African 37. Holiday hunter’s prize (2 wds.) 39. Biblical mountain

23. Impressed utterance 24. Gown 26. Bowling term 27. Large terrier 28. Bachelor party 29. Dangle 32. Wrestling pad 36. Religious dissent 37. Diner 38. ____ glance (2 wds.) 39. Not ashore 40. Rock’s partner 41. Thanks ____! (2 wds.) 42. Mellow 45. Kind 46. Salmon eggs 48. Bonnet 49. NBC’s rival

43. Apple color 44. Card game for one 47. Gotcha! 50. Marry clandestinely 51. Angeles preceder 52. Hunting dog, for short 53. Change 54. Florida island 55. List abbr.


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