TOM FORD
RUSSH Kyra Webb EDITOR IN CHIEF Alyssa Buettner CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Emily Fayssoux FASHION DIRECTOR
Monica Martinez BEAUTY DIRECTOR
Maria Claudia Galli ART DIRECTOR SS
PHOTOGRAPHY
Danielle Torres Kyra Webb MODELS
Anna Ko Celeste Buck Isabel Asensio Madison Budahl ARTIST CONTRIBUTOR
Katherine Sandoz DESIGNERS
Marcell Mrsan
Special Thanks to Anthony Miller.
ACCESSORIES 20 Plus One, Plus Some Photography by Danielle Torres 51 Color We Love BEAUTY 28 Beauty Basics 30 Alienate Photography by Danielle Torres 35 Lush Photography by Danielle Torres FASHION 42 A Night Thought Photography by Kyra Webb 62 Come Back Home Photography by Kyra Webb 76 Oceans & Tides Photography by Danielle Torres FEA 16 18 40 52 56 58 73 74
TURES Marcell Mrsan Form Over Function Finally Takes Precedence Katherine Sandoz Runway Trends Bang! Bang! We Love Out With The Old Examining Perceived Gender Roles
Marcell
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Q:How can you describe your creative process since you are designing for a specific request? A:You need to help customers because some of them have specific ideas but you obviously have to stay within the borders to what it is possible. And the good part is that I can deny a request, there has been times where I don’t like what the customer wants to do, and I simply don’t do it. But it doesn’t happen a lot since pretty much the customer that looks for me knows the style I follow. What I usually do is that I design it on the spot because I feel the vibes that I am perceiving from the customer and can create what will make them happy. I is a very special moment for the customer because it makes them feel part of the design process.
Koronya’s Handmade shoes and Boots designer, and mastermind behind the business, Marcell Mrsan was born into a family of a long history in leathercraft. He dates papers that his family have found from 1844 with Koronya designs. He explains that Koronya is a small family business and haven’t change much since 200 years ago. Originally from Hungary, Marcell now lives in Savannah, GA since 2011 and owns a workshop where all the magic happens. Koronya offers bespoke and made to measure shoes meaning that there is only one of a kind shoe for each customer. He has been keeping up with the heritage of his business and quality standards that will make his grandfather proud.
The Renaissance man behind Korunya emotsuas c gandesigner ignellahcstarted tsom ehby t tfollowuoba ecneiQ: repxHow e na edo m lyou let ukeep oy naon C :Q Q: Did your?rcareer with the heritage of ring evoyour senwfamily o taht ntradition? ameltneg a saw dah reve evah I remotsyour uc gncompany? ignellahc tsom ehT :A IA: ,enNot igamquite, i reve after dluocWWII uoy tahHungary t hcum ywas tterp under gnihtyareve A: daWell, h dnatosemaintain ohs fo srthe iap heritage 002 you don’t want dcommunist etrats ew oS . e m e r t x e s i h c i h w g n i n i l e l i d o c o r c h t i w r i a p a d a h e h t a h t k n i h t n e v e system and all of the small business had to make drastical changes to the brand. Its like pto u shot thguodown. rb dnaSo miwhen h rof the hgusystem one t’nschanged aw ti tubto,rcapiehtael einheriting visnepxe yraevclassical tuoba gnviolin, iklat you just simply -talism moc gninie1989 b pu dfamilies edne I esstarted uaceb treopening i ekat t’nditheir d I .ebusisu ot duodon’t la tonstart era tplaying aht srehtpop ael emusic mos with it. It doesn’t enesses, vah ot dand etnaw ylno what eh ,mIih did rof gwith nihtymine. na od tBut ’ndluitoc I mea taht that tlef Iyou ,detdon’t artsurfinclude yletelpyour personal style that’s wasn’t ?remuntil otsuc2000, eht roand f sepretty ohs edamuch mdnahad h fotoecstart natroKopmi ehand t denideas ialpxebut uoysomewhere nac woH :Qdown the road you tocM be tafollowing a same yrunya rt uoy from nehw tnothing. uB .sdeenI rstill uoy yhad fsitasmy etsaparents t eht dniand f uoy shave dlanoD e uoy nehW :A pattern. I know agrandparents si edamdnaHthat .sdcould lanoDhelp cM ome t kctoabfollow og revthe en tradilliw uoykorunya regrub twill emrube ogthe dnesame hgihinaa 100 years. tion but had to work from scratch. .ot desu teQ: g oHow t ysaedo yreyou v siwork taht ywith tilauyour q customers?
A: Koronya is listed in all of the style websites Q: Do you have any educational ?dlosbackground? reve evah uoy eohs eand visneforums pxe tsom stahW as eahthigh end:Qshoe brand, so they A: Yes, I studied footwear making. The footwear yrev saw rehtael eht dna noitcurtsnoc ehT .000,5 naht erofind m rome f seand ohs we a dlexchange os ecno I :mails. A We have to set education wasn’t high level in Hungary .and seohwas s ymnot lla ekup il dantime ik a ftoo measure eno tuB .their laicefeet ps and depending on very well appreciated. So I studied footwear making ?noitaSo erc mathe erddemand etamitluit rcan uoytake stahup W to :Q2 or 3 years to make in a 3 year program when I was in High School. is tIa :A very slow process; I -Iocwas orc rgoing etaw tlto as one nailaschool rtsuA htin iwthe eohmorning s tuc elohand w ssetolmaethe s ecpair neip-of ecnshoes, o a eb litliw .000,the 01 evening. dnuora tsoc lliw ti dna wes dnahmake yaw eone ht llapair dnaper rehtmonth ael elidand there is a long another one during waiting list. 16
Q: Can you tell me an experience about the most challenging customer? A: The most challenging customer I have ever had was a gentleman that ownes over 200 pairs of shoes and had everything pretty much that you could ever imagine, I even think that he had a pair with crocodile lining which is extreme. So we started talking about very expensive leather, but it wasn’t enough for him and brought up some leathers that are not aloud to use. I didn’t take it because I ended up being completely frustrated, I felt that I couldn’t do anything for him, he only wanted to have animals on his feet. Q: How can you explained the importance of handmade shoes for the customer? A: When you eat McDonalds you find the taste satisfy your needs. But when you try a high end gourmet burger you will never go back to McDonalds. Handmade is a quality that is very easy to get used to. Q: Whats the most expensive shoe you have ever sold? A: I once sold a shoes for more than 5,000. The construction and the leather was very special. But one of a kind like all my shoes. Q: Whats your ultimate dream creation? A: It will be a once-pience seamless whole cut shoe with Australian salt water crocodile leather and all the way hand sew and it will cost around 10,000. 17
Form Over Function Finally Takes Precedence
Fashion is a trend-driven industry. That’s the premise of the whole business. New collections indicate the fads of the world at the current moment. But, when you take a step back and look at the bigger picture, there a few aesthetic strands that most designers follow, or at least acknowledge. Recently shoe trends have taken a drastic change. Remember Alexander McQueen’s 09’ Armadillo heels towering at 10 inches? Compare that to Chanel’s spring 2014 athletic sneakers, Isabelle Marant’s sneaker wedges, or Celine’s “furkinstocks.” Function and comfort seems to be the new aesthetic. The foundations were paved long ago. Adidas can claim to be the first sportswear brand to gain high-end fashion status. The Y-3 line, featuring sneakers, launched with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto 13 years ago. It was the first brand of its kind, shown on the catwalk with Yamamoto’s autumn/winter 2001 collection. And even before that, according to history, and to Lagerfeld in a video interview posted on Chanel’s website “In the history of fashion, around 1800 to 1840 or 1845, women had flat shoes. Even with a ball gown, they had flat shoes.” Everyone is on board with this trend it appears. One is hard pressed to find a photo of Rihanna not wearing a pair of Nike sneakers. Mary Kate and Ashley were even both seen in Birkenstocks with socks underneath. Vogue even using Adidas shower sandals in shoots. The trend has now evolved main stream accessible as Teva’s has collaborated with Opening Ceremony and Birkenstock with J. Crew.
But this trend may be a good thing after all, a reflection of the positive direction of our economy. Usually, in an economic downturn, heels go up and stay up, as consumers turn to a more flamboyant fashion as a means of fantasy and escape. At the height of the economic crisis in 2009 the height of women’s heels peaked at seven inches and by 2011 dropped all the way to two inches. Much like the “lipstick effect” heel height has become an economic indicator. Historically, heel heights noticeably grew during the Great Depression of the 1930’s, and the Oil Crisis of the 70’s. It is in human nature to respond to the attitudes of the surrounding environment they live in. In today’s zeitgeist and forecast of tomorrow’s, one should expect to see this trend continue to emerge. 18
PLUS ONE PLUS SOME
PHOTOGRAPHY: Danielle Torres
Left: Sunglasses, Alexander McQueen; Lipstick Chanel. Front: Earrings, Giorgio Armani; Necklace, BCBG Maxazria. Back: Earrings, Henri Bendel; Lipstick, Christian Dior; Right: Sunglasses, Miu Miu.
Opposite; Top Left: Shoes,Walter Steiger; Top Right: Shoes, Zara; Bottom left: Shoes, Calvin Klein; Bottom Right: Bag, Gucci. Above: Bag, Celine.
Opposite: Shoes, Coach. Above: Silver cuff, Michael Kors; Watch, Michael Kors; Gold cuff, Tory Burch.
Shoes, Jeffrey Campbell.
Some of the interpretations include having the hair loose and the bun consisting of multiple braids, also Ermanno Scervino shows a look with a messy high bun and loose sweeping pieces across the forehead. The emphasized brow has been something we have been seeing for a while now, but has never really reached its maximum potential. As street style is becoming more and more prominent I believe it is giving women the courage to experiment with their makeup rather than just staying safe and being afraid. There are so many different options we see for drawing attention to them. At Giorgio Armani and Etro, we see the girls wearing a filled in straight and chunky shape then we look at Dsquared and Antonio Marras who decided to completely bleach their models eyebrows. I think it is an interesting choice to focus on the brow because although it may not be the typical place to centralize your focus, manipulation of them can drastically change your appearance.
BEAUTY BASICS Hair and makeup is an essential part of
every woman’s morning routine. No matter what their style most women spend at least twenty minutes on their appearance every day, which is why it is important to keep up to date on what is going on in the beauty world. In certain situations you may be restricted to a dress code and rely on self-expression through your hair and makeup. It is amazing what it can say about you, for instance, a woman who wears a sleek middle part with a low bun makes a completely different statement than someone with a side part and loose curls. The same could be said for makeup, natural shades with a warm bronze tone says relaxed and open while strong eyebrows and a milky complexion convey a more serious tone.
For pre-fall 2014 we have observed that one of the prominent trends for hair is a relaxed look. Designers such as Gucci, Hogan, and Emilio Pucci can be seen putting out their models with a relaxed wavy look. Worn with a middle part, these looks can be infinitely different. A side part with a sweeping strands across the forehead projects a demure feel whereas a middle part gives it more of a natural feel. Although they have a more casual tone the hair is not dulled at all, each look is styled with sprays and serums to give the hair a high-gloss finish. We can also see that a reinterpretation of the bun is going to be popular for this upcoming season. It is a simple look that does not require very much time for those on the go, but also presents you with a sleek, finished look.
Another trend we can see is stand-out eye lashes. It seems from looking at Gucci and Versace that they have chosen to make the dark black of the lashes stick out by only applying light and neutral eye shadows without any eye liner. Although it may sound simple, it is a great way to wake up the face and draw attention to your eyes. In today’s innovative world there are countless ways to individualize yourself, it only makes sense that hair and makeup would be a huge part of that. First impressions are the most important and if you are able to project who you are before you even say anything, that can be amazing. To some people beauty and hair trends may seem irrelevant and trivial but for those women who look for those little ways to express themselves it can be everything.
ALIENATE
PHOTOGRAPHY: Danielle Torres
LUSH
PHOTOGRAPHY: Danielle Torres
Above: Necklace, Dannijo Opposite: Top, Topshop
Katherine Sandoz Interview with the artist:
Katherine Sandoz is a multi-media artist working with illustration, fibers, paint, and sculpture. She currently resides in Vernonburg, Georgia and creates in her barn-turned-studio on the property. Through her work and use of both representational and abstract forms, Sandoz “hopes to preserve, catalog and celebrate the terrain of daily life.” Sandoz is currently a contributor to the Oxford American, works on projects in collaboration with the Savannah College of Art and Design, other Savannah based artists, and has had her work exhibited through the United States and Europe.
Q: You do a lot of collaborations with the community surrounding you. Working with SCAD, public murals, other artist, ect. What importance does that bring to you as an artist?
and to the larger measures of time. In between, I record in paint, paper and fabric (or...) stories, seasons, landscapes and small moments that strike my fancy. I am as inspired by the media I choose as I am by the places, people and stories. I trust that the smallest most mundane fleck of an idea might deliver, with time, exploration and reexamination, great possibilities.
A: Collaborative art offers its participants the gift of sharing time, ideas, experience and ownership. Additionally, communities are equally rewarded. Public art especially transforms the site on which it stands but it also changes one’s understanding - potentially on many levels. The most important shifts allow the viewer or the participant to delight in the work, to absorb the language and messages of the piece and lastly, to consider one’s potential as an architect of betterment within the community.
Q: You work with so many different types of media, paint, fibers, illustration, but all still maintain your distinct style. Witch is your favorite medium? and how do you stay true to your aesthetic when switching between mediums? A: Making is my favorite medium. I choose the media that can support and fill out my concept best and tell chunks of chapters in the story. If I am asked to work with one media in particular, I rely on manipulation of the formal aspects as well as a number of strategies for concepting - those that all visual communicators employ. That you recognize an artist’s work regardless of media suggests that the artist offers - solely - versions of his or her own voice. I can think about singers and musicians who perform any genre of music and we still name them; this makes the “voice” of any artist whether author, film maker, interior designer, cook, (insert lengthy list of types of artists here) paramount.
Q: How did you begin your career as an artist? or how did you know you wanted to become a professional artist? A: I probably suspected I wanted to be some kind of maker or artist my entire life. But I took my time to commit to it. Every person, place and experience on my circuitous route has made me the thinker and kind of artist I am today. The most obvious change in course came while working in an advertising agency as an account planner. I tried often to eek my way into the creatives’ meetings; rooms filled with electric personalities, quick analysts and conceptual & visual smarty-pants. Most had multi-displinary educations, job histories. Many were seasoned ad men who understood psychology, business, art & design and how to create admiration and desire - with stories, people and pictures. I lurked in their “area” as much as my own 40
Q: What projects are you currently working on? A: Currently I am painting a large scale site specific work that is the third iteration of a series that I started a year ago based on images I photographed at Lake Tahoe in April 2013. All three groups will exhibit in May 2014 at Pinnacle Gallery in Savannah. I have two fibers based series in process and I am creating illustrations for a number of editorial clients. I am weaving a folly of wood and vines harvested from my property and those adjacent to me. I try to keep a number of projects in the works with staggered finish dates and I work all the projects all the time. Q: What would your dream creation be? A: I stay focussed on the job at hand, so the current one visits me in my dreams and is the one that I solve problems for as I fall asleep. Pie in the sky: concepts realized without tight limits on cost, resources or numbers of skilled hands are also dreamy. So what if I need a foundry and a team of arborists? There is a palpable thrill in realizing a project that is larger than oneself; collaborative, public works rank a bit higher than singular quests. Still, if stranded alone on an island populated by only palm trees, sand and water; I can’t imagine not considering art and design a part of my survival plan.
workload allowed. Soon I guessed I could maybe become a visual strategist, even make pictures. I also wanted to return to making my home in the south. SCAD gave me formal and practical training as well as the desired regional, cultural and aesthetic backdrop. As a professor in illustration at SCAD, I received an advanced and broad education from nine and half years of students’ patience, enthusiasm, skills and experience. And the college and its community gave me a decade to develop my skills, modes of presentation and any number of “theories” I put to practice each day. Q: Could tell me a little bit about your inspirations behind your work? A: Daily life informs all my work regardless of subject or media. I pay attention to the small details 41
A NIGHT THOUGHT
“Where the Moon along the sky Sails with her happy destiny; Oft is she hid from mortal eye Or dimly seen”
PHOTOGRAPHY: Kyra Webb
Coat: Calvin Klein Night gown: Victoria’s Secret
Above: Stockings, Victoria’s Secret; Shoes, Emporio Armani.
Opposite: Underwear, La Perla.
Opposite: Blazer, Giorgio Armani
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COME BACK HOME
Above: Dress, Topshop; Boots: Dr. Martens
Opposite: Dress, Free People.
Dress, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Dr. Martens
Dress, All Saints Opposite: Dress, Kate Spade
Out Top with the old... 6 album releases to date
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Foxes Glorious May 12, 2014 Sony
Iggy Azalea The New classic April 21, 2014 Island Records
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Blondie Ghosts of Download May 13. 2014 Eleven Seven Music
Michael Jackson Xscape (compilation album) May 9, 2014 MJJ Epic
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Coldplay Ghost Stories May 3, 2014 Parlophone, Atlantic
Foster the People Supermodel March 14, 2014 Columbia
...in with the new
As for what’s projected for the second half of the year we are expecting great albums from artists such as Adele, Foo Fighters, Madonna, Kanye West, Red Hot Chili Peppers and U2. They have given hints about releasing a new album but have not stated date nor album name. On the other side Lana Del Rey announced her new album “ultraviolent” but did not say when is coming out. Lady Gaga is going double this year by releasing her single album “ARTPOP: Act two” as well as her contribution album with Tonny Bennet “Cheek to Cheek” by the end of the year. 73
Examining Percived Gender Roles
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The issue of gender roles has long been of concern in society. Differences between male and females do exist. But, nonetheless, most will agree both genders should be equally represented in most circumstances. For example, it is of concern that women continue to remain underrepresented in the Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics disciplines. Success in these disciplines has recently been linked to spatial ability (one’s ability to understand problems involving physical spaces, shapes, or forms) and rotation ability (or the ability to rotate mental representations of two-dimensional and three-dimensional objects.) Research on which has consistently shown there is a sex difference, with males outperforming females. But what has come into question is whether this difference due to physical sex, or perceived gender roles.
Gender socialization starts at birth, and occurs through four major agents of socialization: family, education, peer groups, and mass media.
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As many have observed, in recent years, the lines marking traditional gender roles are becoming blurred. Gender roles are based on norms, or standards, created by society. In the United States, masculine roles are usually associated with strength, aggression, and dominance, while feminine roles are usually associated with passivity, nurturing, and subordination. Gender socialization starts at birth, and occurs through four major agents of socialization: family, education, peer groups, and mass media. Repeated socialization over time leads men and women into a false sense that they are acting naturally rather than following a socially constructed role. Part of the change in American society may have to do with the recession. More than 80 percent of the jobs lost during the recession had belonged to men, which led to women holding the majority of jobs in the United States for the first time ever. Men who lost their jobs were employed in fields like construction and finance, whereas the women had been in slightly steadier fields like teaching and health care, fields where there will always be a demand for workers. With their husbands unemployed, women would now take on the role of breadwinner, while the men would take care of the home.
Examining Perceived Gender Roles:
This change in society suggests that an individual’s gender role, rather than their biological sex, could be a more accurate predictor of their performance on spatial and rotational tasks. Thus, individuals who identify with a more masculine gender role could potentially outperform those who identify with a more feminine gender role. In a recent study conducted in a South Florida University, the relation between a participant’s biological sex, perceived gender identity/role, and their performance on a classic mental rotation task was evaluated. Data was collected using an eye-tracker followed by a short online survey. Mental rotation ability was measured using the Shepard and Metzler mental rotation test. In this test, participants were presented with two images that were a “match” or a “non-match”. Images that were considered a “match” were identical images that were slightly rotated. As for images that were categorized as “non-match” the figures were mirror images of one another and therefore could not be made to match. Perceived gender role was measured using a childhood gender/identity role questionnaire. The results of this study, to no surprise, also predicted that gender roles rather than biological sex may partly explain the sex differences seen on mental rotation tasks. The findings from this research will hopefully help us understand the effects of social factors like perceived gender role and gender identity and its implications concerning how to decrease the gender gap in the Science, Technology, Engineering, and Mathematic fields. Gender roles today are becoming decreasingly important, and so should the educational gap in these fields. 75
OCEANS AND TIDES
Dress, Zara
Above: Top, Stella McCartney; Pants, Carolina Herrera Opposite: Dress, LF
Dress, Mary Katranzou
Top, Stella McCartney; Skirt, BCBG Generation
Top, J Crew; Skirt, Calvin Klein