1
9LD 5RPD ‡ &DPLJOLDWHOOR 6LODQR &6 ,WDO\ WHO H ID[ ‡ FHOO ZZZ VDSHULHVDSRULGLFDODEULD LW ‡ ODGHD #DOLFH LW
/ iÊ ,
>Ê*,"6 vÊÊÌ iÊÊ- 9Ê
San Donato di Ninea CS Bread with Sardella, Pitta with the pig ciccioli
" Traditional preparation of the bread
Romans, to the epoch of August, the planning reaches the maximum expression of perfection. Wheat has the record on all the cereals that use him for the production of the bread, but it is used to do it with different products, the rich ones they use the flour of wheat, people uses bowline, rye, corn, mile, sesame, lupines, czeches or chestnuts, at times with the grains reduced to flour mixed among them. It is entirely almost a bread deprived to be able nourishing that hardens shortly him time, it consumes him with few olives, a spicy chilli, a tomato, sardellina salty and half onion, the farmers don’t have other. Bread is sacred, it is a providence of the sky, it is marked by customs and atavistic customs by to respect with religious assent. The harvest of the wheat is burdened from the bagliva, the tax on the wheat and the grinding, from the terratico, the rent of the ground, and from the interest to be paid to the feudal-rich owner for the seeding wheat. The crops are precarious and the farmers don’t return the loans, they are convicts for Edmondo Infantino to one “cruel tyranny” that it engraves deeply in the social life of Calabria and it forces to inhuman personal servitude. Under the scorching sun and
the rain to lines torrential, among the brown sod of the earth, day they are followed after day, season after season, the obstinate works of the farmers that sow the wheat, the bowline and the oat. The harvests of wheat of the farms strengthened of the Marchesato, shed between the dunes and the calanques of the agrarian landscape presilano, of the Piana di Sibari and of the coastal band jonica of Reggio, are not picked at the same farmers that have sowed her: “they is picked up and they is left; they are taken, they dig, and they are left; I taken, they plough, and they are left; I taken, they sow, and they are left. They are not country; they are hoers, they are, they are those who sow, they are harvesters. As earth is not earth; it is large agricultural estate (Elio Vittorini) “. For Fernand Braudel “the men do the heavier and more important agricultural jobs: to till, to plough, to dig, to plant the olive-trees and the grapevines, to cut the trees, to sow, operations of which they always have to realize to their master. The women they also works in the fields, especially in occasion of the vintage, of the reaping and of the harvest of the spontaneous (mushrooms, grasses, fruit) products that they constitute
Ê/ iÊÊ*, "1*," 1 / " ÊÊ vÊÊ 8/, " Ê6 , ÊÊ vÊÊ" 6 ," Ê- 1 , " 6 Ê/, -
$
Olive groves of Roccelletta of Borgia (CZ)
%
Terranova da Sibari (CS)
The crop of the olive tree is largely practiced in Calabria at least from the XIII century a.C. coming from Smaller Asia, other plants of olive tree, sacred to the goddess Minervas, arrive with the new Greek conquerors in the VIII century a.C. Since then these evergreen trees and a lot of long-lived are integral part of the agrarian bruzio landscape, giving stains of a green to the hilly reliefs and the lowlands extraordinary silver, degrading toward the sea. The arboreal systems, are constituted by real monuments of the nature woods of secular ultra vegetable patriarchs that have a preference for the mild climate of Calabria without excessive starts of temperature. In the Piana of Gioia Tauro are raised stately to heights that they often reach and they overcome the 60 metres, and sometimes, as the millennial olive tree of the Plans of Dasà or those secular of Torretta of Crucoli, of Cirò Marina, of Guardavalle, they have a long history to tell: the olive tree has contributed in important way to the income and the alimentary consumptions, to the rhythms of the life and the popular religiousness, it represents friendship, joy and comfort, it is blessed to Easter for the calm and the peace of the family, it recalls “peace, fertility, strength, victory, glory and even purification and sacredness.” The usual period of harvest of the olives, with the use of the nets, it is to the beginning of November, after the seeding of the wheat. Once, the collectors of olives went down to the navy for the whole winter: “The forastiere him June they anticipate for pugs 20 a month, an eighth of broad beans, a quarter of I serve in the military of oil and a half roll of salt a month. To the longobucchesi reduce by 4 pugs for the transport of its sack, and to those of Bocchigliero a trip of mule for every ten. You calculates the month including you that to come, not that of the return” (Vincenzo Padula). They are women forced by the necessity to leave for so many months their families to earn at least the provision of the oil and some small remuneration, with the lowered head, they picked up the olives with the hands to one to one to put back her in the baskets that brought to the trappeto on their head or on the back of donkeys and mules or on wagons hauled by oxen. The oil ends up in the jars being daily used for the seasoning of the poor foods and the dishes appreciated prepared in the days of party, in the country custom the best oil is that of the year, contrarily of the wine that is very more appreciated how much more it is aged, it is precious in comparison to the other fruits of the earth and it is taken care of and measured with minuteness, its presence on the cafeterias, as in the past, it is a constant. The oils are different extra virgin of olive excellent products in the whole Calabria, known particularly they are those of the Lametino in the province of Catanzaro, of the ionic hills presilane, of the Albanian
Corigliano (CS) Olive press of the 1900’s
PRINCIPAL VARIETIES OF OLIVE TREE CAROLEA: nicastrese • olivona • oliva dolce • catanzarese • cumignana DOLCE DI ROSSANO: rossanese • nostrana • frantoiana • oliva da olio GROSSA DI CASSANO: cassanese TONDINA: roggianese OTTOBRATICA: dolce SINOPOLESE: sciolarea • coccitana • chianota • sciolaria GROSSA DI GERACE: paesana • mammolese • geracitana • dolce ALTRE VARIETÀ: mafra • corniola • nostrana • napoletana •ricciarello (olivo amaro) • pennulara • tonda di Strongoli • borgese necks, of the Sibaritide, of the Valley of the Crati and the surrounding necks the river Savuto in the province of Cosenza, of the tall crotonese and of the Marchesato in the province of Crotone, of the Locride, of the overlooking territories the Narrow one and the low Ionian reggino in the province of Reggio Calabria and the necks of Tropea in the province of Vibo Valentia. They are held zones particularly predisposed for the olive tree, where the drupes are still harvests to hand from the plant that it doesn’t suffer chemical treatments, producing, so, an oil that is inserted to full title among those biological. The rational technical practiced of cultivation in the region, according to modern agronomic criterions, a workmanship that respects the tradition, and from the fresh pulp of the olives, with very low acidity, taste yielded with you sprout of spicy and bitter, it prepares
him appreciates her production of the oils extra virgin of olive D.O.P. Alto Crotonese, Lamezia and Bruzio, the plurimillenaries seasonings of the gods. In the national list of the Italian traditional productions the oils also they re-enter extra virgin of olive of the Colli di Tropea, of the Savuto, of the Locride, of Calabria. Other oils Calabrian extravirgin very appreciated are am the Geracese of the Locride, of the Stretto, Conca degli Ulivi, Basso Ionio reggino, Grecanico, Marchesato di Crotone. The picked olives that are not used for the oil, the prepared with different techniques of maintenance and different tastes: to the mortar, in brine, in the jar, black batches, crush, under salt. White or black, according to the degree of maturation, they have in the kitchen a vast and specific cookbook, with the addition, sometimes, of chilli pepper.
&
Extra oil virgin of olive
/ iÊÊ ",9Ê, Ì iÊ Ê "/, > `ÊÊÌ iÊ , Ê Ê* ,/Ê vÊÊ ÌÃÊÊ -/",9
Grape of the area of Savuto
Cirò Marina (KR) Vines of Punta Alice
Innumerable generations of Calabrian have created dense vineyards of history, the genesis of the Italian and European wine-growing and they accredit thirty-five to the bruzio centuries of productive continuity of the grapevine. An sedimentation “consolidated him in the time that puts the wine product of this earth to a very tall level since its origin.” The Greek eight centuries before Christ land on the shores of Punta Alice on the Jonio with new seeds that modernize the ancient vines enotri and since then Calabria that for “culture of the wine doesn’t have peers in Italy” it is mostly one of the regions of the Old continent courses for the precious cultivation. Distributed in the hill and in measure redoubt in the zones of lowland, the grapevine it loves the heat and the light of the Long earth bruzia that insinuates him with its eight hundred kilometres of coasts between the Jonio and the Tyrrhenian and for Marilena De Bonis her “memory recalls the name Enotria and Calabria it finds again part of its history.” A sun of fire gives a perfume and an unique taste to the grapes of the vines impregnate bruzi of the saltiness brought by the fresh winds of the North coming from the sea that, depositing itself, it protects the grapevines, making her healthier, strong and long-lived. “Together with the bread and the meat, wine is one of the foods richest in symbols, already in past princi-
pal element of the sacrifices and the donations; he could also say that is more than the bread and of the meat, from the moment that it is the element of support of the greatest spirituality.” As bread is the physical mean of subsistence, so wine strengthens, it stimulates and it cheers the heart of the man, it makes to forget the worries, it creates joy in the banquets, it produces drunkenness. The Greek make it immortal, a tool of material and transcendental mediation among men and to go beyond the real condition toward the sphere of the divine one. Where wine doesn’t exist, the love doesn’t exist, there is no more trace of human joy. In the battle on the river Sagra in 560 a.C. the vigour offered by the abundant libations of Greek wine allows 10 thousand locresis to defeat the crowd of 130 thousand soldiers crotonesi. It is the wine produced on the coast jonica reggina of White and together with the Mantonico, they are wines among the most ancient of Calabria. From the native Greek vine of the Tessaglia, imported around the VIII century a.C. from the pelasgi, they have origin numerous and important wines, that more prestigious it is the Greek of White known in past as Greek of Gerace praised by Strabone in the first century a.C. and product up to the thirties of the nine hundred from those grapes of Gerace of which Al-Idrisi speaks to us in the XII century. “Among the many excellent
wines that Calabria produces, and that of a great diffusion are needed only for Europe to make sure the fame that they deserve, those with Gerace deal a prominent place”, he writes in the 1818 Richard Keppel Craven, an English aristocrat that Carlo Carlino describes us “vain and pedant, endowed with solid classical culture, he crosses this extreme part of the peninsula. It is to the search of the ancient tracks of Great Greece; persist him to see the present with the comfort of the classical sources; his guides are Virgilio and Plinio, Strabone and Livio; but also Licofrone and Barrio, Marafioti and Mazzella; Saint-not and Swinburne, is attentively disproven then. It travels, in short, together with the myth [.] “. In the VI century a.C. the vineyards of Sibari are comparable to those Greek frets and the wines of Cirò and Melissa, representative of the enologia bruzia in the world, they are the sacred drink of the winners of the Games of Olimpia, “the purest nectar” for Norman Douglas in Old Calabria. Grape’s clusters with two wing sand the leaves to three lobes of the shoots reproduced in the pinakes of Persefone, the tablets votives of Locri, are the testimony of the great tradition wine of the Greek of west that continues in the bruzio for all through the Roman empire with technical you progress both in the production and in the maintenance of the wine that is exported in the
Calabrian wine and cheeses
Wild screw in a press of the 1800’s
Vines to Castiglione of Falerna
!
countries of the Mediterranean. Beginning from the first century and up to the apogee of the V century with the undoing of the empire, in the vast estates of the villaes romanae of the ager bruttius, the management of the appreciated vineyards hocks factors, farmers, enslaved. They are situated near the consular roads and near landings from where loaded ships of notable productions of wine depart appreciated for the coasts of the Adriatic, Greece, southern France, Spain, Tunisia and for Rome. With an extension of 150 thousand mqs, one of the most known villaes are that of Casignana, where a cluster of grape to pyramidal form is represented in one of its splendid mosaics. For initiative of the emperors rich Latin families conquer to the cultures new earths that contribute to increase the production of the excellent Greek wines required from Rome. They are the generous wines of Tempsa, Cosenza, of the zones of the Pollino, of Thurio (Sibari), Lagaria (Capo Spulico?), Babbia or Balbia (Altomonte?), celebrated by Plinio in the first century, from Athenaeum of Naucrati between the end of the II and the beginning of the III century that also recalls the wines of Reggio, when men and commodities easily move him from a head to the other in the Nostrum Sea, the Mediterranean. From the landings of Thurio, Vibo, Rhegium, Locri, Scolacium (Squillace), Croton, Lavinum (Scalea), the transport is guaranteed away sea of the alimentary commodities and the wines bruzi. For Caesar Mulè, with Nerone emperor, to Crotone the famous Petronio is satisfied with a
meal sober and abundant bowls of wine. The production of the wine doesn’t even stop when goths and longobardi invade the Calabria. Between 533 and 537 the Calabrian scholar Cassiodoro, official to Ravenna to the court of Teodorico, king of the Ostrogoti, interests him for his sovereign of the wines Bretti and Scilaceo (Squillace). Digging to bashful in the time, in the mild climate in long and sunny summers, the towers and the castles of Calabria they call us to the mind Moslem helmets that bring mournings and ruins on the coasts bruzie from the intense blue of the Jonio and the Tyrrhenian back. They hoist with the Saracens the green flags of the Prophet and then the red banners with the crescent of the Turks. “To the first hit of sabre of the Arabs all collapses forever: language and Greek thought, western organizations, everything goes to smoke. It is as if there had not been thousand years of history.” The bruzis are forced to escape the insecurity of the coasts and the lowlands by now abandoned or you use for the breeding, they return to a large extent to be marshy. The populations move him toward the inside, they deforest new areas that are to reconvert to crops of survival and the numerous vineyards they are taken root with extreme work on the situated grounds supported towards valley by walls, around the small suburbs. Despite the insecurity for the raids, inside the mountains and on the hills the trust and the taste of the life it revives, they works the fields, he goes to the fairs and the markets, and the wines of Tropea reached the Byzantine court of
Grape zibibbo of Pizzo
Constantinople. In the middle Ages the Linguadoca asks for the Calabrian Greek wines that are the preferred by the pontiffs as the Chiarello of Cirella that attracts the attentions of the fierce Torghoud raìs Dragut, the terror of the Tyrrhenian that after having destroyed the tower of watch of the island, with the artillery it opens a breach in the defensive structures and it enters the city plundering wine and women for the sultan of Istambul. The men of Cirella are to work in the fields in the cultivations of the grapes of the Chiarello that extend him up to the river Abatemarco. The attack of Dragut is conceived and driven by a rich Roman merchant that was wanted to avenge some cirellesi to have trimmed him a game of watered wine. “Beautiful vineyards that produce good wines [.] new long leaves of the grapevines around an arm” it is the suggestive image that Lender Alberti in 1526 offers some area lametina among Nicastro, Maida and the Angitola. It is the territory of the wine of Lamezia, known for a long time, with its history that recalls the names of Phoenician and Greek vines: gaglioppo, magliocco, nocera, white and black Greek. Pedro of Toledo and other viceroys of Naples that happen to him, opted for the red wine Ciriagio-Cersasium to forget the raids of pirates and Turkish pirates and Berbers. It is 1595 and the Ottoman admiral Sinàm capudàn pascià, child of the Italian pirate capitain and mother of Islamic faith, after having assaulted Reggio, reaches the Head Leocopetra with its powerful fleet it sets on fire “great deposits of full fragrant strokes of Bac-
chus of perfumed Cirò always” (Franco Mosino). He likes the Calabrian wine so as much than he decides to return on the Calabrian beaches to support in 1599 the insurrectionary attempt of Tommaso Campanella, the monk Dominican philosopher and poet. The Austrian traveller Joseph H. Von Riedesel in 1753 approaches the wines of Reggio to those of Borgogna. In 1826 the botanical Way, Petagna and Terrone visit the vineyards of Diamante, Belvedere, San Nicola Arcella you plant on the nearest hills to the sea and those of Altomonte, “they refresh him with the wine of Donnici directly sipped by the cocumedde (small amphorae of neck terracotta tightened).” A 1883 relationship describes us the merits of the Savuto di Rogliano, of the wines of Castrovillari and the moscato one of Saracen that George Robert Gissing in 1897 it defines moscato of the Saracens. Joseph Victor Widmann tastes in a tavern a red wine of Pizzo “never during the trip I have drunk of it best [.] while it was being poured it shone of a brownish colour and it remembered an excellent Bordeaux.” On the Costa Viola times the agriculturist-fishermen of Bagnara and Scilla they reach in boat the vineyards leaned out on the Narrow one of Messina. On the grounds to peak on the Tyrrhenian, torn with work from the Aspromonte of west, they cultivate, as to Pizzo on the Pore, the grape zibibbo, particularly sweet and sugary, only to the world. It is a fragile equilibrium fruit of a patient job. If they grow loose the cares, the terraces, put to crop along the sides of the mountain reggina, they miserably collapse and they immediately are invaded by the brambles.
"
THE TWELVE DENOMINATION WINES OF CHECKED ORIGIN (DOC) DOC PROVINCE
OF
COSENZA
Donnici is a known wine, produced on the hills near Cosenza, in the areas of the communes of Cosenza, Pedace, Cellara, Paterno, Dipignano, Pietrafitta, Mangone, Aprigliano, Figline Vegliaturo and Piane Crati. Pollino is born in the areas that were busy at Albanian farmers, prevailing people of agriculturists. The areas interest the communes of: Civita, Frascineto, Cassano dello Jonio, Saracena, San Basile and Castrovillari. S.Vito di Luzzi is excellently born from vineyards statements, in the fraction San Vito in the commune of Luzzi.
#
Savuto takes the name from the homonym river that crosses more areas, grapes are cultivated on the hills of the same one, from 1400. The interested communes are: Rogliano, Marches, Malito, Greenhouse of Aiello, Amantea, Carpanzano, Cleto, Pedivigliano, Scigliano, Belsito, Grimaldi, Altilia, Santo Stefano di Rogliano and Aiello Calabro.
Melissa is born in the commune of Melissa and in the areas of the communes of Belvedere Spinello, Carfizzi, St. Nicola of the tall one, Umbriatico and part of the communes of Casabona, Castelsilano, Crotone, Pallagorio, Rocca di Neto, Scandale, San. Mauro Marchesato, Santa Severina and Strongoli. Sant’Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto is born in the areas of the communes of Isola Capo Rizzuto and part of the communes of Crotone and Cutro.
DOC PROVINCE OF REGGIO OF CALABRIA Bivongi produced in the areas of the communes of Bivongi, Fireplaces, Caulonia, Monasterace, Pazzano, Placanica, Riace, Stignano and Stilo. Greco di Bianco the grapes used for this wine are cultivated on the coast of the Jonio Sea in the commune of White and partly in the commune of Casignana.
THE THIRTEEN INDICATION WINES GEOGRAPHICAL TYPICAL (IGT) IGT PROVINCE OF COSENZA
Lamezia produced in the areas of the communes of Maida, San Pietro a Maida, Francavilla Angitola, Gizzeria, Pianopoli, Curinga, Falerna, Lamezia Terme, Feroleto Antico. Savuto that it takes the name from the homonym river interested the communes of: Motta Santa Lucia, Martirano Vecchio, Martirano Lombardo, San. Mango d’Aquino, Nocera Terinese and Conflenti. Scavigna gotten in the areas of the communes of Nocera Terinese and Falerna. Bivongi produced in the whole area of the commune of Guardavalle.
Calabria produced in the whole territories of the province of Cosenza Condoleo produced in the areas of the commune of Mandatoriccio. Esaro is a wine produced with cultivated grapes on the hills that the homonym river coasts along in the areas of the Communes of Santa Agata d’Esaro, Tarsia, Firmo, Lungro, Fagnano Castello, Spezzano Albanese, Malvito, San Sosti, Acquaformosa, San. Marco Argentano, Roggiano Gravina, Altomonte, Terranova di Sibari, Mottafollone, San Donato di Ninea, San Lorenzo del Vallo, Santa Caterina Albanese. Valle del Crati produced in the areas of the communes of Acri, Bisignano, Castiglione Cosentino, Cervicati, Cerzeto, Lattarico, Luzzi, Marano Marchesato, Marano Principato, Mongrassano, Montalto Uffugo, Rende, Rose, Rota Greca, San Benedetto Ullano, San Fili, San Martino di Finita, Santa Sofia d’ Epiro, San Vincenzo la Costa and Torano Castello.
DOC PROVINCE OF CROTONE
IGT PROVINCE OF CATANZARO
Verbicaro is born in the areas of the basin of the Lao in the communes of Santa Domenica Talao, Grisolia, Orsomarso, Saint Maria del Cedro and Verbicaro.
DOC PROVINCE
OF
CATANZARO
Cirò is born in the commune of Cirò and in the areas of the Communes of Cirò Marina and part of Crucoli and Melissa zone (where the ancient Cremist rose).
Calabria produced in the whole territories of the province of Catanzaro Valdamato produced in the communes of Curinga, Feroleto, Gizzeria, Lame-
zia Terme, Maida, San Pietro a Maida, Pianopoli.
IGT PROVINCE OF CROTONE Calabria produced in the whole territories of the province of Crotone Lipuda produced in the areas of the communes of Carfizzi, Casabona, Cirò, Cirò Marina, Crucoli, Melissa, Strongoli, Umbriatico. Val di Neto produced in the areas of the communes of Carfizzi, Casabona, Andali, Belcastro, Belvedere Spinello, Botricello, Caccuri, Cerenzia, Crotone, Cutro, Mesoraca, Pallagorio, Petilia Policastro, Roccabernarda, Fortress of Neto, St. Mauro Marchesato, San Nicola dell’Alto, Santa Severina, Scandale, Umbriatico and Strongoli.
IGT PROVINCE OF VIBO VALENTIA Calabria produced in the whole territories of the province of Vibo Valentia
IGT PROVINCE OF REGGIO OF CALABRIA Arghillà produced in the areas of the communes of Calanna, Field Calabro, Fiumara, Villa San Giovanni, Reggio Calabria and the fractions of arcs, Arghillà di Catona, Arghillà di Salice, Arghillà di Villa San Giuseppe, Concessa, Diminiti di Sambatello, Orti, Rosalì, Sambatello, San Giovanni di Sambatello, Terreti and Vito. Calabria produced in the whole territories of the province of Reggio of Calabria Costa Viola product in the areas of the communes of Bagnara Calabra, Palmi, Scilla, Seminara. Palizzi produced in the areas of the communes of Bova, Bova Marina, Brancaleone, Condofuri, Palizzi and Staiti. Locride produced in the areas of the communes of: Agnana, Ardore, Bianco, Bovalino, Bruzzano, Camini, Canolo, Caraffa del Bianco, Casignana, Caulonia, Ferruzzano, Gerace, Gioiosa Jonica, Grotteria, Locri, Mammola, Marina di Gioiosa, Monasterace, Placanica, Riace, Roccella Jonica, the Sant’Agata del Bianco, Sant’Ilario, Siderno and Stignano. Pèllaro a wine that is gotten by the cultivated grapes on the hills of the homonym country, and in the areas of the communes of Motta San Giovanni, Reggio Calabria and the fractions of Bocale, Lume di Pèllaro, Macellari, Occhio di Pèllaro, Oliveto, Paterriti, Pèllaro, San Filippo e Valanidi. Scilla produced in the areas of the commune of Scilla.
, -- Ê*", Ê*," 1 / Ê> `ÊÊ ,9Ê*," 1 / ÊÊÊ/9* ÊÊ vÊÊ 8
Calabrian cheeses
The breedings bruzi is characterized by those montanis for a long time, but in the last years a substantial quantitative and qualitative improvement is underlined in the lowland. To the notable presence of the race bovine native Calabrian, with attitude to the job, the milk cattle of the races are also added brown alpine and dappled. The disappearance of the large agricultural estate in the nine hundred has involved an updating of the technique of breeding that from the wild one it alternates him to that stallino and semistallino today. The races of the ovines and the goat ones they are mostly local and they are raised in liberty. Enough diffused the character family breeding of the swines of Calabrese race remains, proper for the feeding to wild of the country tradition of once that it allows to get pigs from the tasty meats, with a good index of maintenance and balanced contents of fats. The breeding of the pig, in the centuries strongly passed suited for the poor environments of the region, it is today still one of the activities of the farmers with the consumption of the meats, once prerogative of the richest families, that is progressively extended. In the last years they are in action actions of raising of the black pig race of Calabria, otherwise destined to the extinction, it is an native race from the delicious meats, rich of tastes and smells. The preparation of the Calabresi meats is type traditional, the valleys rich in woods, fresh in winter if not snow floods of the Calabrian Appennines well they are lent to the breeding and the following and delicate phases of the workmanship and seasoning of the meats. Salubriousness of the air, favourable climatic conditions, availability of natural foods as acorns, chestnuts, czeches, drawn by the earth cultivated by the country families, they represent the optimal conditions for the preparation of meats seasoned famous. Heritage of the Greek of west,
the Calabrian meats have ancient traditions even if the first one and detailed written reference it goes up again only to the XVII century, father Giovanni Fiore speaks to Cropani of it in his Of Illustrated Calabria, mentioning an ample use of the meats and an accurate technique in their workmanship. A few centuries later the investigations murattiane underline the use of spice and aromas derived by local plants to give great taste to the meats and they tell us some ordinary food of Calabria Citeriore: “The class of the farmers rarely feeds him of meat in only Sundays and of frequent in the time of carnalevare. The industry de’ neri she is also maintained by the farmers the most miserable, and for reason of shop and some provision of the necessary lard to the seasoning of their daily foods.” The meats of Calabria are protagonists of the feeding for a long time, the traditions of production handed down by generation in generation during millennia are countersigned from sharpened methods of breeding of the swines and from accurate processes of transformation and varying seasoning from the around 60 days for bags him, to the 4 months for the capocolli and to one year for the hams. The capocollo of Calabria, the pancetta (bacon) of Calabria, the salciccia (sausage) of Calabria and the soppressata (brawn) of Calabria have gotten the Denomination of Protected Origin (D.O.P.) and they are the more known Calabrian meats for tradition and specialty, with tastes, colours and inimitable perfumes, synthesis of the bond with the territory bruzio that makes them only. The capocollo of Calabria D.O.P. of cylindrical form, tied up to hand and well narrow with a natural string and with sticks of reed, it is prepared using the loin of the swine, salty, he is aromatized with ground chilli. The taste is delicate with a characteristic perfume that gets sharper
$
Lagarò di Celico in Sila Grande (CS) Shepherds and
%
with a suitable seasoning. The pancetta of Calabria D.O.P., gotten by the seasoning than at least one month of the under-cost of the swine, she is characterized by thin striations of thin and of fat; of rectangular form, salty and of red colour for the abundant presence in the superficial part of chilli, it has one particular taste of his. The salciccia of Calabria D.O.P. it is prepared with thin meat gotten by the shoulder and by the bacon of the swine. Fresh or seasoned for periods of short and lasted average, it is spicy with ground black pepper, sweet or spicy red chilli, and it is characterized for her intense perfume and her taste. The soppressata of Calabria D.O.P. it is prepared with the parts more appreciated of the pig, the thigh and the shoulder, and spicy with sweet or spicy red pepper. It is slightly particular for its . cylindrical form squeezing, for it intense and balanced perfume and the pleasant and persistent taste. Had worked since December in February with maturation and seasoning from the four a ten months in base to the patches, at times it is preserved in the lard in terracotta containers, of ceramics or of glass. The ‘nduja is a poor food been born by the necessity of the farmers to exploit the pig meat that it remained them after having destined the parts more appreciated of the pig to the land owners. Its introduction in Calabria is owed, according to some studious ones, to the Spaniards in five hundred together with the chilli coming from America, or, according to others, to the troops giacobine that brings it ‘nduja in the bruzio during the Napoleonic (1806-1815) period and in the transalpine language andouille means sausage. The most known is it ‘nduja of Spilinga, Calimera and Rombiolo, creamy and spreadable is spicy with chilli and smoked. Between the XVI and the XIX century her ‘nduja he affirms for its nourishing value and for that therapeutic for the abundant presence of mixed chilli to the meat. The ‘nduja represents well the strong tastes of Calabria and it is particularly sought after because it smears him instead of being affected. She is consumed as appetizer on the bread or on the croutons, a patè for tastings with wines and appreciated oils and it is used on the coast of the gods, between Nicotera and Pizzo, and inside the Poro, to prepare first dishes as the fileja to the ‘nduja and the beans of it Caria with the ‘nduja. The tall mountain, the cold winter and the other fresh
and damp seasons, the natural foods of the wood as acorns and chestnuts administered to the swines, favour the production of the raw ham of San Lorenzo Bellizzi from the extending delicate taste to the dessert, gotten by pigs exclusively raised in the surrounding territory the small country of San Lorenzo Bellizzi in the National Park of the Pollino. The ham of Calabrian black pig, produced with meats of pig of the race autochtonous black Calabrian, introduces him with a pale red colour and a soft and sweet taste. The period of workmanship begins in November and he extends up to March, with 13-15 months of maturation and seasoning. The principal areas of production are those of Acri, Motta Santa Lucia and Melissa. The raw sausage of Albidona prepares him in the small suburb of the tall Jonio cosentino, it is a fresh meat from the taste that it extends to the spicy for the addition of salt, black and red pepper to the meats of swine. The prepared sausages once between December and February, they are destined to an immediate consumption, at times for a seasoning of few days they are suspended to the pole it posts in local well aired. The Marchesato crotonese is the interested territory to the production of the salty one of Crotone, from the salty taste and smell aromatic, during the workmanship between December and February it is uniformly sprinkled with abundant red pepper, and, in some cases, also with black pepper. Hung to the poles it seasons from three to six months in temperature places constant, sometimes in buried stores or caves. The sausage with wild fennel from the workmanship manual between November and February, exclusively has a taste and spicy taste and fragrant smell. The soppressata of Decollatura produced in the district of the Sila Piccola catanzarese, a zone rich mountain of stately trees of chestnuts , woods of oaks and cerri, are worked with a particular attention to the aromatize and the quality of the meat to get a balanced taste and a light aftertaste of smoked. The Cularina bagged typical of the vibonese, it is prepared mixing pig meat chopped with salt, red chilli, black pepper and mixing the all with red wine. The Breech, typical of the locride is the thigh of pig boned, aromatic and seasoned at least 14 months. The same climatic conditions, the workmanship effected with healthy milk coming from breedings correctly fed in dry environments, mended by the winds and by the sun,
the quality of the water of workmanship, confers a particular taste to the dairy product of the earths bruzie, produced with characteristics of unchanged genuineness by their ancient Greek origins. Among the cheese products the caciocavallo silano, the first one to have gotten the D.O.P., it is that more known and appreciated, it is prepared with milk that it derives from pastures semi-wilds that confer him characteristic exclusive organoleptics, of tall gastronomic value and smells, perfumes and tastes of the mountain. For the seasoning the caciocavalli are tied up to couple with thin strings and suspended to horse of supports. The time of seasoning departs from a minimum of thirty days, the taste is sweet extending to the spicy one if seasoned, the crust is thin and smooth with to read inlets in correspondence of the strings, the consistence it is homogeneous, compact with light little cavities. Very appreciated by the smallest, the little animals of provola are often used for embellishing the presentations of the Calabrian typical productions on the occasion of fairs or driven tastings. The butirro silano that has had origin really in Calabria it has a form of lengthened pear, full of butter is manufactured with tied up cloths of rush to the base and the vertex. It is produced especially in the period spring-summer in the zones silane of the provinces of Cosenza, Crotone and Catanzaro; the butter worked him preserve up to the end in the summer when the herds go down to valley. On the Altopiano Silano is also produced the caciocavallo podolico, rich of soft and buttery pasta, delicate taste, good grilled and the mozzarella silana, preserved in the characteristic ferns in limited quantity it is produced on application in the summer period during the migration from the ionic coast to the highland of the Sila. The caciocavallo of Ciminà is a pasta cheese spun of ovoid form with hard, wrinkled and shiny crust, of white ivory colour. The pasta, if for a long time seasoned, it is friable, scaly, of yellow gold colour; the taste is sweet and buttery to average seasoning, pronouncing to the spicy and salty one to advanced seasoning. The whole year is produced in the slope of the Low Ionian reggino of the Aspromonte, in the communes of Ciminà and Antonimina with a seasoning that has been varying from i 2-3 days to a few months, in an appropriate fresh environment and aired. In the same zones of the oriental slope of the Aspromonte, in the territories of Cirella of Platì, Ciminà and Antonimina, it is produced, generally from November in July, with a seasoning that has been lasting for 2-3 days to a few months the càciotto of Cirella of Platì. To spun pasta and form to pear with the thin and shiny crust, it is of pale yellow colour and it has a sweet and buttery taste to average seasoning, pronouncing to the spicy one to advanced seasoning. The farci-provola it is a pasta cheese spun with the farcitura of sausages (soppressata, capocollo). The strazzatella silana
Butirri to lengthened pear shape butter fillings
Bacon of Calabria D.O.P.
&
Capocollo, soppressata and salsiccia of Calabria D.O.P.
Caciocavallo Silano D.O.P.
/ iÊ ,1 /Ê vÊÊÌ iÊÊ ,/
Chili pepper of Spilinga
Thanks to the particular micro climates of the different areas of Calabria, the cultivations furnish very dainty products as the extraordinary cipolla rossa di Tropea that represents Calabria in the world. Light and delicate, to also be consumed in raw quantity, they are cultivated above all from 4000 years on the coast of the Monte Poro, a typical zone that understands the communes of you Ricadi, Tropea, Parghelia, Zambrone and Briatico, with a surface of around 300 cultivation hectares traditional. Already in the antiquity Plinio the Old man wrote some therapeutic ownerships of the onions that are also used today for the diets and for a while you inserts in the menù of the greatest cooks of the world for the characteristic organoleptics of sweetness, tenderness, perfume and fragrance. The red onion of Tropea, so denominated because from the landing of the small roadstead of the island of Saint Maria in the ships were stowed for reaching distant markets, it is cultivated on a general surface of around 600 hectares, in the inclusive area among Longobardi in the province of Cosenza and you Revert in the province of Vibo Valentia. In the communes of you Ricadi, Tropea and Parghelia it is typical the production of the primaticce. In the areas day Zambrone and Briatico it is cultivated the so-called late. Another zone of specialized cultivation is that of the Savuto, with a surface of 300 hectares in the territories of Amantea, Campora San Giovanni,
Gizzeria and Nocera Terinese. The middle surrenders of the cultivations are of 35-40 hectare tons with the fresh consumption onions, said cipollotti (said), that is picked to the beginning of the formation of the bulb, while the primaticce are picked up in April and in the summer the late ones. The irrigation assured by the uncontaminated water of plentiful spring strata and by brooks, that the traditional techniques to slide exploit, with the aquariums dug to fatiguing hits of hoe, the fertile grounds and acclivi and a sowing done to hand that asks for the time and the job of the whole country family, slightly confer to the fagiolo poverello bianco and to the fagiolo di Caria a delicate taste. Easy to cook, even on the fire, in the terracotta pot worked to Squillace, Seminara or Bisignano, gilded with the extra virgin oil of olive and seasoned by to hold red onions of Tropea, it can taste delicacy and tasty. The production of the fagiolo poverella bianco interests the territories of Mormanno and Laino Borgo and Castle in the National Park of the Pollino. The seeding in the dimples is effected in June in the ploughed ground. The harvest of the dry pods is manually effected in October. The fagiolo di Caria it grows in the pija, the brown earth dark, thin and fertile, of the plateau of the Pore that succeeds in holding back well the damp for the wealth of water. The good earth of the inside zones of Calabria and the characteristic environment pedoclimatic
Rocca of Neto (KR)
!
tion agricultural and gastronomic Calabrian, the fig tree is another treasure that the region has inherited from the millennial traditions that originate from the Middle East. The summer is the season of the fresh fig tree, I taken by the plant with a lot of care and exclusively to hand, they are picked mature from June to the late autumn in base to the different varieties. They are select of big patches, clear peel, soft pulp, small seeds and from the sugary taste. For centuries the dry fig trees, from the long and delicate workmanship, I am the poor feeding and farmer, typically handed down of generation in generation. The desiccation happens with the usual layout to the sun on cots, cannizzi, wood tables, but also to the oven or in special air driers warm. Once dried, they are carefully selected for preparing crowns of dry fig trees to the myrtle, wrappings of dried fig trees, cooked fresh fig trees to the oven, balls of fig trees, braids of fig trees or open and stuffed with walnut-trees, pieces of orange or cedar and pressed for the crocette of fichi. Stuffed, baked and cooked, the fig trees also pass in the frosting, covered to hand with thin and selected chocolates or with the honey. The liquorice of Calabria is used by the most remote antiquity for its curative ownerships. Glycerrhiza, the scientific name of the plant, derives from the Greek and means sweet root. The stolons (buds) are the branches that grow crawling on the ground or they bury more often him and they form roots with knots to originate new plants that bloom in the summer between June and July. Various qualities of liquorice exist, those Calabrian are the kinds echinata and hairless. The production of the liquorice begins around the XIV century and develops him up to represent 70% of the Italian production between the
end of the XIX and the beginning of the XX century. The stolons and the roots are turned into pasta by different firms, those more ancient traditions are in the province of Cosenza and they boast a long activity that is perpetuated by different generations. Already around 1500 some firms commercialized this perennial grassy plant that flourishes along the coastal Jonico cosentino. In 1731 it comes realized a foreman-industrial plant, said I tan, for the extraction of the juice from the roots of the plant. They are born so the liquorices, black, bright, seductive, joy of their children, but also of the adults that love the pleasures of a healthy and natural life. After three centuries these firms still produce, with exclusive methods, liquorice of high quality: pure, rubbery and candied or in the form of delicate aroma for torroncini, grappa and liqueurs.
Print of eight a hundred depicting the plant of liquorice
/ iÊÊ* , 1 > `ÊÊÌ iÊ " "1, vÊÊÌ iÊ", "--"
"
The lemons of Rocca Imperiale
The citrus fruit of Calabria are very appreciated in the world, the oranges, the mandarins, the particular cedar of the valleys of the Lao, of the Abatemarco and of the Corvine one, the Clementine of the Piana of Sibari, the limetta of the province of Cosenza, the late blond of Trebisacce, the lemons of Rocca Imperiale and the bergamot of Reggio Calabria. Henry Swinburne in his chronicles of trip speaks to us of a very beautiful earth “covered with orange tree, of lemons, cedars, olive-trees, almond tree and of
other fruit trees that, for the conflicting stains of green and for the variety of their height and form, they offered one of the more launchings and intense landscapes that I had also seen never in Italy that also it is country of wonderful landscapes. I was spellbound from the stupendous sight and almost inebriated by the perfumes.” The quality of these citrus fruit is tied up to natural factors as the Calabrian coastal climate that doesn’t record strong starts of temperature and it is characterized by the pres-
ries of the Christian era, to the following Byzantine presence, and between the IX and the X century, to the famous medical School salernitana that prescribed the medicinal use of the cedar. In the sixteenth century the cedar growing records a further development for the renewed one and mostly wide Jewish presence in Calabria. The cultivation happens according to technical traditional, and to mend the plants of cedar from the winds, the growth it is limited to one meter and a half, to facilitate its coverage with walls of reeds or branches, sustained by scaffoldings, or also through rows of trees windbreak. In spring the delicate and white flowers of the cedars fill with perfume the gardens and the streets of the suburbs of the Coast; in November the big fruits are picked up from which essences are drawn, liqueurs, candied, jams, frozen and you granulate and also seasonings for the first ones and the second dishes. Gabriele D’Annunzio it appreciated the raisin with pieces of cedar, wound in leaves of the same fruit and batches. The picked cedar in the Coast tirrenica cosentina, denominated cedar Diamante or smooth, Diamante, it is very appreciated for the beauty and the high quality of the bark, smooth and uniform. Proper above all for the confectionery workmanship, Belvedere Marittimo and Diamante it is worked to and then diffused in Italy and to the foreign countries. The fruit and the branches of the cedar are in demand from the Hebrews for the religious celebrations of their shed communities in Europe and in the world: “ [.] the rabbis have elected him/it symbol of the purity and they reach the Coast of the cedars to directly pick up him/it from the plant to use him/it in the party of the Tabernacles or the Huts built according to the customs on the terraces, in the courtyards, in the gardens and even in the balconies of the houses [.] “ (Franco Galiano). The healthy fruits perfectly, from the conic form and with a beautiful green colour, coming from a plant than at least four years non engaged, they are select and picked up by the same rabbis in the months of July and August: they get up to the five in the morning and with the farmers they go to the cedrar growing according to an ancient tradition prescribed by God to Mosé: “You will take the fruits of the most beautiful tree, of the branches of palm and from the leafiest tree of the willows of the stream and you will cheer you faced to God, your God.” The cedars are contained then in wood cassettes and on its way toward the Jewish communities for the sukkoth that falls in the month of September and that for the Hebrews of the whole world it is the more important religious event of the year. On the Piana of Sibari raises him stately the south-
ern the bastion of the thick one of the Pollino. Vertical rocks dominate green lawns, turned on by red poppies of the valley of the Greek of west of Sybaris. The elevated technical abilities in the agriculture allowed the Sybarite ones to reclaim the widest Calabrian lowland and to make sure a life marked by great wealths. The today’s woods of oranges, mandarins and clementine encircle the ancient memories guarded by the national archaeological Museum of the sibaritide, they with reflexes green dark and orange tree the well preserved recoveries of theater, thermal baths, roads, plazas and residences with their floors the Roman’s to mosaic Copy. They perfume of orange-blossom the Byzantine Rossano and the castles between sea and sky of Calopezzati, Corigliano, Mandatoriccio and the Saracen towers of Sant’Angelo, Ferro, of the Schiavonea, of Santa Tecla. On these earths they are cultivated from halves the XIX century the clementines of the Piana of Sibari, the only Calabrian product to Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Particularly pleasant and easy to peel, the sweet citrus fruit is characterized by absence of seeds, colour intense orange tree and juicy and aromatic pulp. Greater and more resistant to the cold of the common mandarin, the trees of the clementines of the plain one of Sibari are always green with a luxuriant aspect and the flower that it buds it spreads perfumed essences. The limetta, a very rare kind of lemon in Italy, is almost exclusively cultivated in some limited areas of the province of Cosenza. The product doesn’t reach great quantities and the most diffused quality it is that sweet. You distinguishes a great deal for the pleasant and intoxicating aroma of the peel and the technique of cultivation not him far very from that of the lemon. The transformation of the limetta for the candied ones and the peel is used for the extraction of alcohol and the preparation of aromatic liqueurs. In the particular micro climate of the coastal band of the Jonio casentino is cultivated the late blond of Trebisacce, the magnificent summer oranges of the gardens of the surrounding territory Trebisacce, probably a clone of the orange common blond, a citrus fruit rich in vitamins that has a late maturation that extends him up to the month of July, and, more to north, the lemons of Rocca Imperiale, that have the characteristic to bloom more times during the course of the year. On the terrestrial ploughed and hoed of the shores of the tall Jonio cosentino the lemons of Imperial Fortress perfectly adapt him to the climate in a non rigid winter and with scarce precipitations especially in the summer period. The surface in production is of around 200 hectares, the fruits
$
+1 1,-ÊÊ> `ÊÊ -/ / -Ê vÊÊ , -ÊÊ> `ÊÊ- , -Ê > `ÊÊÌ iÊÊ/, / " " " " ÊÊ , -
&
Cerchiara (CS)
Among the 271 products typical of qualities of Calabria recognized in the national list of the Italian traditional productions some distillates and liqueurs included very appreciated, prepared with procedures handed down by Greek and Saracens: amaro alle erbe produced on the Monte Poro, more known with the dialect name of Amaru du Capu, has for ingredients grasses and aromas all of Calabrian origin: the bitter and sweet orange tree, the mandarin, the liquorice, the camomile, the juniper, the sugar and the alcohol, that are set in a steel cistern inox for the grinding and the blending of the mixture. The gotten syrup is allowed to settle and it is filtered before being preserved in oak strokes set not in conditioned fresh environments and bottled. It has a kind and aromatic taste, dark colour. L’Amaro del Capo is produced according to an ancient elaborated again Calabrian recipe and improved. They are produced in the whole regional territory the anise composed by seeds of anise, natural aromas, sugar and alcohol and the fragolino, sweet taste, intense smell of strawberry, red colour, manufactured with little strawberry of mountain, natural aromas, sugar and alcohol. The techniques of workmanship foresee that the little strawberry of wood, preventively washed, are preventively set with other ingredients in a steel cistern inox that handles to grind and to mix the mixture for about 36 hours. The syrup obtained comes before left to extol and then leaked before being bottled with appropriate spirals. You goes affirming in Italy and in the
world the liqueur to the base liquorice of extract of the best Calabrian liquorice more and more. From the unmistakable taste, the liqueur gotten by the juice of liquorice is added to the alcohol and the syrup of sugar, the colour is almost black, the sweet taste, the aroma typical of the essence. Excellent as digestive it is to serve cold. The historical area of production is the province of Cosenza. For a long time immemorial the liqueur of citrus fruit, of lemon, it prepares him with the peels of the citrus fruit soaked in alcohol, water and sugar. The liqueur of bergamot is typical of the province of Reggio Calabria, it is produced with peels of bergamot, aromatic grasses, sugar and alcohol. The liqueur of cedar manufactured especially in the tall Tirreno cosentino, in the territory of the Coast of the cedars, but also in the province of Reggio Calabria, it is a mixture to base of peels of cedar, aromatic grasses, sugar and alcohol. It is a liqueur of yellow colour from the reflexes greenish, aromatic and sweet, medium alcoholic, from the strong taste of citrus fruit. The barks of cedar, deprived of the white part, they are mails in infusion in the alcohol. You prepares a syrup of water and sugar that, once cooled, the alcohol and the peels of cedar it is added to. You leaves in infusion for some days, so that the alcohol and the aromas of the cedar are well amalgamate, he allows to rest the liqueur for at least five months. It has a gastronomic use from dessert as digestive, to use for the preparation of you granulate and on the ice cream. The liqueur of wild fennel to be consumed after two months from the preparation with wild fennel of Calabria, alcohol and syrup of sugar, has a sweet taste and a green colour. For the ancient and pleasant soft drinks produced in Calabria with methods and from traditional recipes the soda to the lemon it has a simple preparation, it is composed from water, sugar, assembled of lemon and carbonic anhydride. It has a taste semicake to the lemon, slightly fizzy, smell of lemon, white colour. The soda to the coffee is to base of water, sugar, caramel, assembled of coffee, carbonic anhydride, from the taste semicake to the coffee, slightly fizzy, smell of coffee and dark brown colour.
9LD 5RPD ‡ &DPLJOLDWHOOR 6LODQR &6 ,WDO\ WHO H ID[ ‡ FHOO ZZZ QHZVLOD LW ‡ ODGHD #DOLFH LW