Air Tanzania, TWIGA issue 11

Issue 11 / October to December 2021

YO U R F R E E A I R TA N Z A N I A M AGA ZINE

T R AV E L / TA STE / TALEN T

Twiga A I R TA N Z A N I A Issue 11

On top of the world

My Mt Everest record

Msonge Organic Family Farm Growing fruit and veg the wild way

Black rhinos are back

Rare species reintroduced at Mkomazi National Park

KIBUBU Pay for your flight in instalments See page 27 for details

contents 21

33

Regulars

Features

3

6 Land of the lions

CEO foreword

Images by award-winning Tanzanian photographer Daniel Msirikale

New aircraft, new routes

5

Air Tanzania news

15 Msonge Organic Family Farm How Zanzibar farm is delivering on its message of working with nature

10 My Tanzania Filmmaker Kitundu Jonathan

28 24 hours in… Mumbai

The adventurer on becoming the youngest African to climb Everest

31 Swahili story Baba Na Wana (Father and Sons) by Frank Masai

33 Re-introducing rhinos The rare black rhino is back in Mkomazi National Park

63 Kid's puzzle page Fun challenges

37 Jacaranda Music Festival Showcase of African artists returns

Is published by: Land & Marine Publications (Tanzania) Ltd Room A14, 3rd floor, Josam House plot Number 16, Mikocheni Area Along Coca-Cola Road, Dar es Salaam Tel: +255 686 118 816 www.landmarine.com Head Office: Land & Marine Publications Ltd 1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way Severalls Business Park, Colchester, Essex, UK, CO4 9RA Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: publishing@landmarine.com

How to get that natural glow

45 Climate activist making waves Ghaamid Abdulbasat Hatibu on why we all need to play a part

Understanding SWICA regulations

51 Loving the Lake Zone

Spread the cost of your flights with us

56 Sound and vision 57 Arts column

42 Homegrown beauty

A deep dive into the Kagera region

27 Kibubu

54 Tech Steam tech for kids 56 Faysal’s blog

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49 Legal eye

21 Rawan Dakik

40 Cookery column With Belinda Mkony

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Read Twiga online: qrs.ly/qdbooco

Air Tanzania information 61 Twiga miles 64 Travel information 64 Air Tanzania fleet 66 Air Tanzania destinations 68 Air Tanzania contacts

On behalf of: Call toll free: 0800 110 045

Editor: Mark Edwards markedwards@landmarine.com Advertising sales: Catherine O’Callaghan Tel: +44 (0)7944 212063 (WhatsApp) Email: catherineocallaghan@landmarine.com Godfrey S. Urassa Tel: +255 (0) 686 118 816 (WhatsApp) Email: godfreyurassa@landmarine.com Printed by Jamana Printers Ltd, Dar es Salaam

@AirTanzania Air Tanzania Company Ltd (ACTL) Second floor, ATC House, Ohio Street Dar es Salaam. Email: info@airtanzania.co.tz Office (JNIA) Telephone: +255 222113248 Jerry Ngewe, Marketing Executive, Email: jerry.ngewe@airtanzania.co.tz

@airtanzania airtanzania_atcl For the latest flights, information and to book online, visit:

www.airtanzania.co.tz

The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ©2020 Land & Marine Publications Ltd.

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Image courtesy of Rawan Dakik

CEO foreword

EDITOR’S NOTE If ever I am feeling down or low on energy, I know a stroll along Kipepo beach or a forest hike in the Pugu Hills will soon rejuvenate me.

Here in Tanzania, we are lucky to have so many incredible wild escapes within reach where we can immerse ourselves in nature. Just ask Rawan Dakik, the young Tanzanian adventurer, who was schooled in Arusha and grew up with the neighbouring Mount Kilimanjaro as her playground. Inside this edition of Twiga, she reveals how the majesty of nature inspires her even when gasping for breath at the height of a cruising airtliner as she was when she became the youngest African to climb Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak.

We also explore the rich bounty of nature here in Tanzania, from the locally sourced ingredients in the beauty products of Zen Organics to the work of the Msonge Organic Family Farm in providing nutrient-rich, wild-grown fruit and veg across Zanzibar.

Then there’s environmental ambassador Ghaamid Abdulbasat who is encouraging Tanzanian young people like him to value the natural world and campaign for its protection.

I hope this issue inspires you to get out there and connect with nature.Maybe I'll see you on the Pugu Hills! markedwards@landmarine.com

www.airtanzania.co.tz Follow us on:

@AirTanzania

New aircraft and new routes It is my pleasure to welcome you onboard your flight with Air Tanzania and to our inflight magazine, Twiga.

You are flying with a growing airline that is really going places, connecting our passengers to all corners of Tanzania as well as an increasing number of destinations abroad. Our latest addition is Mtwara, making the south eastern city our 10th domestic destination.

Our international destinations will soon include Nairobi, in Kenya; Ndola, in Zambia; the DRC’s Lubumbashi and we are set to re-open flights to Bujumbura, in Burundi. We have also recently restarted passenger flights to Mumbai, in India, and connect with Tanzania's largest trading partner, China, with regular cargo flights to Guangzhou.

To service this expanding network we have boosted our fleet of aircraft.

We recently took delivery of a new 80-passenger Dash 8 Q400 that will be put to use across all our domestic routes. This was followed by the arrival of two new Airbus A220-300s for international flights, giving us an 11-strong fleet in total.

With more destinations, more aircraft and an increased frequency of flights to many of our domestic destinations, we are fulfilling our mission to connect more passengers than ever. With the same aim, our new Kibubu scheme, which allows passengers to pay for their flights in instalments (see page 27 for more details), makes air travel affordable to a greater range of individual budgets.

Thank you for flying Air Tanzania and we hope to welcome you back into the skies again soon.

Eng. Ladislaus Matindi Managing Director and Chief Executive Air Tanzania

@airtanzania airtanzania_atcl Air Tanzania ATCL airtanzania.co.tz / 3

Air Tanzania news

Our new Dash 8 delivered after incredible journey

The new De Havilland Dash 8-Q400 arriving at Julius Nyerere International Airport

Air Tanzania has received delivery of its latest Dash 8 Q400 aircraft after an incredible six-stage flight across three continents. The De Havilland-built aircraft touched down at Julius Nyerere International Airport in July after travelling 15,000 miles from the Canadian manufacturer’s base in Toronto.

Of course, the 80-passenger aircraft does not have the fuel capacity to make such a journey in one go so it was ferried in stages with six stops en-route to its new owner in Tanzania.

The journey began from Toronto’s Downsview airport to Goose Bay in

Newfoundland on Canada’s north east coast. The next flight took it over the Atlantic Ocean to Keflavík in Iceland.

From there the Dash 8 traversed Europe north to South, stopping first in Rotterdam, in the Netherlands, and then flying to Heraklion, in Greece. The next flight marked the aircraft’s arrival in Africa, with a stop-off in Luxor, Egypt, before a flight to Addis Ababa. From the Ethiopian capital the aircraft then reached Dar es Salaam.

kind with De Havilland suspending its manufacturing programme in response to decreased demand for its aircraft during the pandemic.

Air Tanzania now has five Dash 8 Q400 aircraft among its 11-strong fleet. The new arrival could well be the last of its

Visit airtanzania.co.tz to book your trip or call free on 0800 110 045 for more information.

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Photo special

Tanzania is the land of the lions Regular readers of Twiga will be familiar with Tanzanian photographer Daniel Msirikale, whose award-winning work has regularly graced our pages. The travel photographer and videographer loves to capture wildlife and natural landscapes on camera and knows how lucky he is to live in a country of such natural riches. That was made very apparent recently when Daniel took a trip to the Serengeti and saw more than 90 lions over an eight-day stay. “That’s more than I had ever seen in my entire life,” he says. Daniel puts the number of sightings down to his knowledgeable guide, “the legendary Issa”, and the fact that while lions are now extinct in 26 African countries, Tanzania is home to 15,000 of the around 20,000 that live wild in the world. “I have to acknowledge how privileged I am to live in Tanzania,” Daniel says.

We feel privileged to be able to share some of the amazing photographs Daniel took on his Serengeti adventure. To purchase prints of Daniel’s work – the full range is available to view on his Instagram page @that_tanzanianguy – email danielmsirikale@gmail.com or call +255 756 238 183

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All images © Daniel Msirikale

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My Tanzania

KITUNDU JONATHAN

‘I think some people didn’t realise travelling is fun until they watched Katambuga’ As a self-confessed “naughty boy” growing up in Dar es Salaam, Kitundu Jonathan admits he rarely went to school, preferring to go on adventures with his friends. However, a taste of photography and filmmaking inspired him to learn more and gave the acrobatics-loving adrenaline junkie the opportunity to explore the remotest parts of Tanzania and to showcase his love of nature. Now Kitundu is a leading light of Tanzanian filmmaking – having worked for a host of domestic and international clients – and the creative force behind hit travel reality show Katambuga.

Q: It seems school didn’t interest you much, but once you found something you loved – filmmaking – you were keen to learn and improve your skills. How did your time at Kilimanjaro Film Institute (KFI) help you develop as a filmmaker?

A: When I joined KFI I did not know much about films, I was just capturing things without any idea. But being there I came to understand how every shot counts, how to tell a story from your shot composition and the lighting. I also met lots of friends.

Q: Can you tell us about one of your most memorable adventures behind the camera?

A: There was this time I was in Enduimet, in Kilimanjaro National Park, and I was filming a team of rangers carrying out their various activities, such as catching poachers and helping communities. One day we got a call from villagers that elephants had invaded the farms.

To chase the elephants away the rangers use chilli bombs, made from pepper

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powder mixed with rice or sugar for weight, and in the middle a firework with the fuse wire sticking out. So, you light the fuse, wait and then throw it into the sky over the elephants. When it explodes, the chilli powder covers the area and, hopefully, the elephants run away.

I remember it was so cold and wet that I could barely feel my hands when I threw my bomb so it exploded in the air over us, covering us in powder.

When we did get one to explode over the elephants, they all ran except for one calf.

It was crying and its mother returned for it and started chasing after us. She was as big as our car. Still, we drove the elephants away from the field. It was better that way because before they were being killed by farmers for eating the crops.

One day, we walked for more than eight hours to catch poachers we had seen from afar in the park. We caught up with them at night. It was so dark I couldn’t see in front of me, but I could hear their footsteps and smell the animal they had killed. The

rangers lit their torches and gave chase and I followed. The rangers only had long Maasai sticks, but I called out: “Afande (soldier), shoot him” and one of the rangers replied: “Yes, sir”. Fearing for their lives, the poachers gave themselves up. We had tricked them.

Q: Have you always been an adrenaline junkie?

A: I have always been fond of extreme sports like rock climbing, sky/sea diving and exploring caves. It makes me feel good to do it.

Q: When did you start taking photographs and making films? Did you feel an instant connection using a camera?

A: As a child I admit that I was very naughty and curious. My best friend Faraji and I thought we were wasting our time in school when we could be out exploring. We loved adventure, whether that was sneaking into a military base or an abandoned building or finding new routes to investigate.

I also loved martial arts. When I was living in Mwadui in 2008, a local acting group was looking for someone who could do acrobatic stunts and knew fighting skills for a movie. We would fight and rehearse all day and I became the best among the 10 or 12 fighters there. There is one movie which was amazing. In it I perform an impressive stunt, jumping over a giant guy and kicking him with my heel. More film roles followed and I was learning new skills, holding the boom

All images courtesy of Kitundu Jonathan / My Tanzania

mic for sound or white balancing the camera.

Soon I was behind the camera shooting weddings and then on to my own films. I got contacted by Damian Bell, the founder of environmental non-profit Honeyguide Foundation, in Arusha, who was looking for a filmmaker to join the anti-poaching unit in Kilimanjaro. Damian and his wife, Sally Capper, could see my promise and they got me enrolled at KFI. Q: Your mother raised you and your siblings mostly on her own. What kind of sacrifices did she make to ensure you and your siblings were looked after?

A: Every time I get to asked this kind of a question, the tears start to fall. It brings all the painful memories back. My father left home in 1998 when I was nine and my younger brother had just been born. He would drink and beat my mother so bad she lost her front teeth and would get frequent headaches. He also beat me.

When he left, things were still hard as my mother was ill from complications during the birth of my brother. When she started to get better, she began work as a security guard and she would train rangers. She worked day and night to support us. I rarely saw her sleep. She had to work long hours because the salary was barely enough to cover rent, food, and other expenses. To save money she would walk on foot up to 17km or more, from Mbagala where we lived to jobs in Posta or Kurasini. She has sacrificed so much for us.

Q: What has been your proudest moment so far?

A: I remember when I was assigned as videographer on a team of four people to shoot a documentary about climbing Mount Kilimanjaro for adventure operator Zara Tours. My colleagues had been in training for three months to prepare for the climb, while I hadn’t yet. Yet three days into the climb, the team were so exhausted that I had to take over the photography as well as the filming, even when we had to start our ascent to the peak at 11pm. I got some amazing sunrise shots. I’m tough.

Another moment is when I was working

for I-View Studios in Dar and had only a few days to create a pilot of a Tanzanian version of the successful South Africa TV show Our Perfect Wedding. DStv wanted it and were offering TZS 300 million. I spent three days and nights working to finish the project. The next day I came into the office and everyone was clapping. DStv loved it. We had the deal for Harusi Yetu.

Q: Can you tell us how you came up with the idea for your travel reality show, Katambuga?

A: The idea of Katambuga came up when I was travelling to different places in Tanzania, and I had amazing experience with the Hadzabe tribe, in the death zone of Mount Kilimanjaro and at Oldonyo Lengai. I thought it could be important to tell all these stories to people.

Q: How did you select the members of the Katambuga team? Who are they?

A: All the characters in Katambuga are people I know from different backgrounds. I wanted different characters: journalist Diana

who can dig for stories, Festo the thinker, a diva like Nancy and me who is someone who never backs away from a challenge. It worked. We were a fresh combination and the response to the show was overwhelming.

Q: Were there moments when you were frightened on the trips?

A: There were times when I thought I’m not going to live to complete this story. For instance, it was very difficult in Mpwapwa, in the Dodoma Region. We walked for two days to almost reach our destination, but the villagers threatened to kill us and wanted us to leave immediately.

Also, when we explored the Amboni Caves, near Tanga, there was a place there full of boxes where no-one was allowed to enter. Everyone was scared to even approach, but my curiosity was pushing me to know what was inside. Everybody else left.

It was just me and the boxes.

Q: How much of what viewers see in episodes of Katambuga is real and recorded just as it happened?

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My Tanzania

A: All the stories in Katambuga exist. We talk to the locals before we explore. Stories such as the Pua Mbili caves and the giant snake are all real.

I admit to exaggerating a little when it come to the love stories that play out in Katambuga, but I know the market in Tanzania. If the show was just about adventures and exploration, it wouldn’t have been such a success. You have to add some love, drama and conflict as this is what people have been fed from the media. But, at end of the day it is still my show and my direction.

Q: How important is reality to you as a storytelling filmmaker?

A: People are getting smarter and smarter.

Once they find out you faking, you will be forgotten, easily. If we tell false stories we create a bogus nation and I don’t want that to happen.

Q: Can you tell us about any secrets you have uncovered in the upcoming second and third series of the show?

A: I love the coming season; it has less dramas and more discoveries. We have been able to discover one of the oldest Baobab trees in the country. It is believed to be more than 200 years old.

We discovered it at the entrance to a cave, which has been used for many years by the Gogo tribe in Mpwapwa to bury their dead.

We go into the cave and find lots of human remains. We are still in post- production but by the end of this year, the new series will be on air.

Q: Can you explain what fascinates you about nature and where did this fascination begin?

A: Most of the places I would escape to from school were green, wild places. When I came to Arusha, I became more curious about wildlife. I have always been fan of [UK broadcaster and natural historian] David Attenborough and have learned much from his BBC wildlife documentaries.

Q: How much do you collaborate with other creatives and do you feel part

of a growing movement in Tanzanian filmmaking?

A: Collaboration is very important in the film industry. It opens doors to other opportunities and it’s a great way to learn and improve your skills. Lots of young budding filmmakers have been coming to me for advice and training, but sometimes you have to take a leap on your own. I’m the youngest filmmaker in the Tanzania film industry to take on a series of the scale of Katambuga.

I’m very proud of that.

Q: How satisfying has the positive audience reaction been to you?

A: The positive comments have been overwhelming. The audience has been demanding more and they have been suggesting more locations for us to explore. It seems in Tanzania in order to get popularity for your show, music or movie you need to collaborate with a celebrity to promote you, but we are all fresh faces in the market.

But we want to reach further. People from countries such as Kenya, Congo, Uganda, the US and Germany are watching our show on YouTube.

Q: The Katambuga team are all young, modern Tanzanians. How influential do you think the show can be in encouraging young people to explore the wonders of their own country?

A: We get so many DM messages from people requesting to travel with us. I think some of them didn’t realise travelling is fun until they watch Katambuga. We really need local tourism and a show like Katambuga communicating clearly to Tanzanians that there are many stories to tell out there.

Q: If you were organising a dinner party, which three celebrities would you invite?

A: Nancy Sumari, because she is amazing with heart and brains. She has supported me with Katambuga, but she has done so much more since she became Miss Tanzania. She has kept upgrading and developing, running Bongo 5 and Jenga Hub to help the young generation thrive through innovation and technology.

Jokate Mwegelo, because I like her.

She used to be my crush back in the days growing up.

Finally, Ambwene Yesaya (AY) one of the most successful musicians in Tanzania. He is very smart and a person I would love to sit with him at the same table.

Q: Is there somewhere in the country you want to visit, but haven’t yet?

A: Yes, there is a huge list of people and places. Among them is Oldonyo Lengai, Snake Island (I’d find out why they don’t want you to go there), the underground route from Tanzania to Kenya, the hidden underground path in Bagamoyo, Lake Ngozi and its miracle and the last bloodline of the Hadzabe.

Q: What music do you like to listen to?

A: I love country, mostly Bob Dylan and Don Williams. I also love hip hop and listen to artists like Kanye West, Mwana FA, Kendrick Lamar, Jay Z and AY. I also love Bongo Flava, Ali Kiba, Ruby and Lady Jay Dee.

INFORMATION The first series of Katambuga is available to stream on YouTube while the second and third series are upcoming on Wasafi TV. Kitundu Jonathan also runs his own production company. For details or to suggest a collaboration, visit @ kitundujonathan on social media or email kitundujonathan@yahoo.com

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Msonge Organic Family Farm

SPREADING THE WORD ON ORGANIC

FARMING

The Msonge Organic Family Farm is a success story in Zanzibar with more and more people signing up to receive doorstep deliveries of its just-picked, wild-grown fruit and veg. Its ambitions don’t stop there, with its founder, Dr Mwatima Juma, aiming to spur the entire island into embracing organic farming. Mark Edwards meets her.

D

r Mwatima Juma was instrumental in introducing the term organic farming in Tanzania. As chief of the Tanzanian head office of the International Fund for Agricultural Development and the chairperson of the Tanzania Organic Agriculture Movement she helped put in place the standards the country’s farmers are required to meet to get their produce certified organic for the lucrative export market.

However, the organic movement only gave a name to sustainable farming practices that many Tanzanian farmers have been familiar with for generations.

Certainly, Dr Juma has been

immersed in the wild way of farming since she can remember. She was raised on her father’s farm in Shakani on the Fumba Peninsula in the southwest of Zanzibar Island. It was an idyllic natural playground to grow up in, with the young Zuma free to roam its 15 acres, fashioning toys from the branches of trees and picking fresh mangos and bananas to snack on.

In time, though, she began to help her father, Abdulah Juma, and his team and her attention was drawn to the all-natural farming techniques they would employ such as using manure from the farm’s kept chicken and cows as fertiliser for new vegetable growth and rotating crops to preserve nutrients in the soil.

Organic farming advocate – Dr Mwatima Juma (above left)

The farm is her father’s half of a 30-acre plot that he purchased together with his brother. The land was then spilt equally between the pair with Juma’s father – a nurse by trade – setting up a trust so that his children and extended family would share ownership of his farm in the years to come.

Family farm While Juma’s uncle sold his share of the land to housing developers, her father intended for his farm and the nine-bedroom house built on site to remain as a source of food, income and a rural haven for Juma and her siblings away from the temptations of the city. However, another of his airtanzania.co.tz / 15

/ Msonge Organic Family Farm

plans to ensure a brighter future for his children – entrenching the value of education – meant his academically primed offspring soon fled the nest for university courses and high-powered jobs on the mainland and abroad. “You sent us to school, now I like medicine,” was how Juma recalls her brother putting it to her crestfallen father.

Real results Juma was alone among her brothers and sisters in maintaining links to her upbringing on the farm in her vertiginous career trajectory. She gained the first of her degrees in agriculture and was soon working with Tanzania’s Ministry of Agriculture as commissioner for research, finding out all she could about the growing organic movement in Europe and how her country could benefit from being a part of it.

Not everyone was sold on the idea and she faced plenty of opposition in arguing the case for organic farming.

During all this time, she was regularly returning to Shakani and was seeing her words validated in real results on the farm.

Juma says: “People were telling me you can’t use organic methods to grow vegetables, but here we have fields of cassava, cooking bananas, sweet potatoes, spinach, radish, okra and cowpeas. I was walking that talk.”

before it had barely begun. The covid pandemic struck and the ensuing international travel restrictions snatched away the farm’s prime customers – Zanzibar’s array of highspec hotels and restaurants – which, bereft of guests, no longer had any need for regular deliveries of fresh, organic produce for their menus.

However, Juma was able to pivot from the hospitality sector’s troubles by selling direct to consumers.

Inspired by the ‘green basket’ organic food delivery schemes she had seen on work trips in Europe, she began her own. Juma and her small team filled up pakacha – a traditional Swahili basket woven from coconut palm leaves – with super-fresh produce from the farm and arranged twice-weekly deliveries (Monday and Thursday) straight to people’s homes on the island.

The project has taken off in a big way. At first the catchment area

Selling produce at a farmers' market in Zanzibar

The Msonge Organic Family Farm is divided into mutually supportive zones

covered the Fumba Peninsula and the capital Zanzibar City, just 12km from Shakani, but deliveries have now reached resort villages on the southeast coast such as Paje and Jambiani.

In time it is hoped operations will go island-wide.

Everybody wins with the project – the customers, the farm and the environment. The organic goodies that arrive on your doorstep will have been picked that morning so they are at the peak of perfection and taste wonderful. There’s plenty of variety too. Leave it up to the Msonge team to put your pakacha together and you’ll find a mix of wild fruits such as golden mangos, root vegetables like cassava and jack fruit, leafy greens such as rukola, spices such as freshly harvested cinnamon and “some little extra gifts”, as Juma puts it. All in all, there will be around 20 products in each pakacha. The abundance of the seasonal products

Pakacha deliveries At the start of 2020, the then 63-year-old began to shape a plan for her retirement once she stepped away from her official duties. Her father, who has now passed away, had always hoped that one day Juma would return to take over the family farm and with more time on her hands she foresaw an opportunity to “see what she can do here” and channel her considerable energies into making the farm – now to be called Msonge Organic Family Farm – flourish as a commercial enterprise as well as a centre of learning to spread the grow organic message across the Zanzibar archipelago.

The plan appeared doomed

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/ Msonge Organic Family Farm

means the prices can be kept low.

It’s TSH 20,000 (US$ 8.50) for each delivery should you want to keep the pakacha – Juma tells me it makes a great laundry bin – or give the pakacha back to the farm and the price is TSH 15,000.

Arranging your order is easier than ever with the recent launch of the farm’s own app, which was developed by Juma’s tech-savvy son. Customer numbers continue to increase with the door-to-door delivery service a boon amid the social isolation of covid and the vitamin-rich produce a welcome boost for islanders’ immune systems put to the test by the virus.

Sustainable system For Juma, the pakocha system means a guaranteed market for the wide range of produce she grows and support for the organic farm’s celebration of biodiversity. While Juma has arranged the 15 acres into distinct zones – among them designated areas for fruit orchards, vegetable fields and fodder crops for animal feed – they interrelate as sustainable ecosystems. This natural harmony can be as beautiful as it is productive at times, such as the natural beehives hung on the golden mango trees, which produce delicious organic honey and help to pollinate surrounding plants. Then there are the towering coconut palm trees that delineate the zones and provide shaded growing environments for other plants and breeding grounds for beneficial insect life.

By investing the consumer in this sustainable system – exemplified by the biodegradable pakocha which can be returned to the farm to become the waste to fuel more plant growth – Juma sees her organic farming going one step further into a permaculture way of life, reaping benefits for Zanzibar and its people for generations to come.

“Permaculture is wider, more holistic,” she explains. “It provides space to think long term. There should be a reason and a use for everything.

Nothing is wasted on the farm. It

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The pakocha deliveries are going from strength to strength, hotels on the island are welcoming back tourists with Zanzi Resort, Dream of Zanzibar Hotel and Sunshine Marine Lodge among those making orders once again trains you to design nature to work for you. Before you cut back a tree, think about what its shade brings and what you can grow under it.”

The thinking behind permaculture is shared to students at the Practical Permaculture Institute of Zanzibar, which the Msonge Organic Family Farm now runs. The international place of learning was set up in 2015 by the design team behind the Fumba Town housing development, which makes use of permaculture principles in its lush landscaping – among the features that have put its apartments and villas among the most desirable real estate on the island.

Teaching permaculture Juma and Franko Goehse, from the Fumba Town team, became Facebook friends and soon Msonge Organic Family Farm was selling its fruit and veg to the earliest occupants of the town at regular farmers’ markets. When the idea for the institute was brought up, Juma mentioned that the farm had purchased a five-acre plot in Kizimbani, about 25 minutes’ drive north of Stone Town. Its homestead was converted into the institute and the farmland repurposed to provide practical demonstrations of the permaculture principles taught in the classrooms.

Juma admits to initial concerns that she may be “crazy” giving up the land to such an untested project, but it has, she says, proved “a blessing” with her own understanding of the possibilities of permaculture expanded from the input of students who have come from all over the world to study at the institute.

Msonge Organic Family Farm took

Growing the natural way on Msonge Organic Family Farm

over the running of the institute in March this year and while the majority of its classes are still conducted in English to students from across the globe, it has introduced a course in Kiswahili aimed at getting locals involved in wild growing.

Ultimately, Juma hopes that Zanzibar will become an organic island, future-proofing its world-famous growing conditions. “There’s a long way to go,” she admits. “Still, I hope I will see it in my living years.”

Stone Town is due an organic makeover, she says. “It has a surprising number of green spaces and small gardens that would really benefit from organic practices. I would also like to see waste recycling introduced there.”

Progress can certainly be seen at Msonge Organic Family Farm.

The pakocha deliveries are going from strength to strength, hotels on the island are welcoming back tourists with Zanzi Resort, The Blue Bhari Hotel and Sunshine Marine

/ Msonge Organic Family Farm

Lodge among those making orders once again and you’ll find a fresh selection of the farm’s produce at the Tupomoja Café in Mbweni every Sunday. There is also the opportunity for the public to taste Swahili dishes filled with fresh ingredients from the farm and cooked on the porch “of the same old big house” Juma grew up in at twice monthly Sunday ‘Farm to table’ lunches. You can expect traditional dishes such as makopa (dried and sliced cassava) and plenty of vegetarian options.

Looking ahead With the extra acreage of the new farm in Kizimbani, Juma has been able to pursue a long-held desire to grow turmeric and cinnamon. These plants take a while to mature, but Juma is expecting a bumper crop in the coming years.

This means a lot of work. “There is so much to do. People are bending their backs to keep up,” says Juma.

The scaled-up operations prompted Juma to employ five new staff in July, on top of her usual team of four workers and any children and grandchildren available to help out.

However, the sexagenarian – who is up at 4.30am without fail and on pakocha delivery days she is helping with the harvest by 5am ahead of a full day of activities – sounds doubtful about the long-term prospects of the new arrivals, some of whom are already voicing concern at the physical labour involved.

Juma is used to the hard work. She was brought up on a farm – in the days when organic farming was just farming. She is hoping the wild ways of the past will become the future for Zanzibar with Msonge Organic Family Farm leading the way.

To find out more about the pakocha deliveries, ‘Food to Table’ Sunday lunches and visits to the Msonge Organic Family Farm, visit its Facebook site or call +255 754 536 630.

For more details on upcoming courses at the Practical Permaculture Institute of Zanzibar, visit permaculture-eastafrica.com

Pick of the pakocha Dr Juma and her team always like to include a few welcome surprises among the justpicked fruit, vegetables and spices that turn up at your door. Here’s some of the more unusual.

Nyungu (top left) A mixture of medicinal plants that are boiled together. Breathing in the steam from the process is thought to remedy a host of ailments from coronavirus to possession by evil spirits.

Rucola (above left) A rocket-like leafy vegetable which has a distinctive peppery flavour and is great in salads, piled on top of pizza or made into pesto.

Cinnamon leaves (left) Cinnamon leaves are often dried and have a lighter taste and aroma compared to cinnamon bark when used in teas or cooking.

Matembele (bottom left) These sweet potato leaves come with a wealth of health benefits.

They are loaded with anti-oxidants, help protect eye health, can loosen congestion if you have a cold and strengthen your bones. It’s also pretty tasty with a spinach-like flavour.

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Rawan Dakik

A TANZANIAN ON TOP OF THE WORLD

In May, 20-year-old Rawan Dakik became the first Tanzanian woman and the youngest African to climb Mount Everest. It was the literal summit of a mountaineering journey sparked by a love of ‘being active in nature’ and the wealth of natural wonders in her home country. Here Rawan relays the highs and lows of her adventure to Mark Edwards.

E

dmund Hillary once said: “Life’s a bit like mountaineering, never look down.” It’s a slice of worldly wisdom that’s a good lesson to us all to keep striving for our goals, but what if you are Rawan Dakik and you have climbed to the summit of Mount Everest, the highest point in the world, by the age of 20. Where’s up from there?

Both Dakik and Hillary will be forever in the Everest record books.

While New Zealand mountaineer Hillary was the first – along with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay – confirmed to have reached the summit, Dakik, who was born in Arusha to Lebanese parents, is the first Tanzanian woman and the youngest ever African to get to the top.

Tourism ambassador Rawan reached the summit on May 22 and since news broke of her accomplishment across the world’s

airtanzania.co.tz / 21

/ Rawan Dakik

media, she has become something of a superstar in Tanzania. Crowds greeted her arrival at Kilimanjaro International Airport from Nepal and among the welcome party was Wilfred Moshi – the first Tanzanian to summit Everest – and the government’s deputy minister for tourism Mary Masanja. The following month the ministry named Rawan as a tourism ambassador for Tanzania.

It’s a role she is delighted to take on, sharing the natural wonders of a country, which she describes as “like heaven”, to her global followers.

For all the adulation and attention in the outside world, Rawan cuts a calm, composed figure when I video link with her at the family home in Arusha. She describes home as her “safe area” and is very close to her extended family, who have supported her mountaineering journey from the start. “They are a motivation to me,” she says. “They were the only ones I kept in contact with on Everest and they helped push me through. They have always pushed me to be my best.”

When we speak, Rawan has just returned from a gym session, having restarted her training regime a couple of weeks ago. The focus has been on rebuilding her strength.

An Everest ascent, she tells me, is incredibly demanding on the body. The days of intense climbing at high altitudes blazes through muscle tissue as well as fat, depleting strength and motor co-ordination.

Rawan’s recovery was also hampered by the fact she contracted covid on the mountain. Each member of the 17-strong team she climbed with was tested for the virus each day from arrival in the Everest foothills.

Rawan’s results were always negative until she arrived at Base Camp on her way down from the summit.

Next expedition It is now six weeks since Rawan returned from Everest and only now is she starting to feel her energy coming back. The lull has not just

22 / Twiga

For two months she survived in an environment, which could flip from beauty to savagery in a moment and where life and death balanced on a knife-edge

been physical. Rawan has admitted on social media – you can follow her intrepid adventures on her Instagram page @dakikclimbs – to symptoms of “climber’s depression”, a psychological crash common among those coming down from the euphoria of summiting a peak that has obsessed them for some time. “Once you’ve made the dream you’ve had in your head come true, you can feel lost without a goal,” she says.

However, Rawan has new challenges in place to keep looking up to. Her next mountain to tackle is Denali, in Alaska. It’s the highest point in North America and the only mountain left to summit before Rawan becomes the youngest ever person to climb all of the world’s highest continental peaks.

If all had gone to plan, the Everest climb would have sealed that Seven Summits record, but her attempt on Denali in 2018 had to be abandoned. The 6,190-metre mountain is renowned for its extremes of temperature with the sun heating the thin atmosphere to scorching conditions in the day before they plunge at night. It’s a recipe for frostbite and Rawan “got it really bad,” she says. “The weather there is really harsh on the body.”

After that disappointment, Rawan began what was to become two years of training for an Everest ascent after the initial climb date in March 2020 was cancelled a week before she was due to fly out to Nepal because of the pandemic. In hindsight, the extra year of preparation – including acclimatising to altitude with nights spent sleeping on the Stella Point crater near the peak of Mount Kilimanjaro and putting in many hours running and endurance training with a coach – served her well on Everest and Rawan feels confident about taking Denali on again.

Seven Summits Each of the Seven Summits has its challenges. Carstensz Pyramid, the highest point in Indonesia, required “six or seven hours of rock climbing”; the 6,961-metre Mount Aconcagua in Argentina was Rawan’s first climb at “really high altitude” and she can still remember “suffering a lot” on her way to the top of the Mt Kilimanjaro. She crossed the ‘roof of Africa’ off the Seven Summits list when she was 13 and a student at the International School Moshi, now UWC Africa, as part of its Outdoor Pursuits programme.

Here Rawan was encouraged in her love of “being active in nature”.

School principal Phil Bowen says: I think that Tanzania offers arguably the finest outdoor education opportunity in the world and we aim to capitalise on these opportunities.

Rawan was always determined and rose to a challenge whether of a recreational, sporting or curricular nature. We are so proud of her but

Images courtesy of Rawan Dakik

not at all surprised by her accomplishments. She was always destined to be a winner!”

Rawan had found her passion.

“When you do something you like, everything else just follows,” she says. Her school years were full of mountaineering expeditions, including becoming the first Tanzanian to scale the 5,137-metre Mount Ararat, in Turkey, when she was just 12 years old.

Still, you’d imagine getting to the top of Everest has to top all of these mountaineering feats. Rawan is still coming to terms with the enormity of what she has achieved. It was almost impossible at the moment of summiting when she had just 10 minutes to take pictures and look out at the “unbeatable” view from the top of the world – the dangers at that altitude are so intense that climbers are advised to begin their descent, perilous in itself, as soon as possible.

Now, back in Arusha, she has had more time to reflect and for it to sink in that “yes, that happened” as she laughingly puts it. So many people on her return want to hear her story and talking to them has helped Rawan make sense of it, but she wonders if it has become something else in the telling: “Your summit is just for you until you are back home,” she says.

What she tells me of the Everest

There were emotional highs and lows during the Everest ascent

/ Rawan Dakik

climb leaves me lost in admiration of her levels of bravery, patience and focus, which all belie her tender years. For two months she survived in an environment, which could flip from beauty to savagery in a moment and where life and death balanced on a knife-edge.

The ascent In March, at the beginning of the Everest climbing season, Rawan arrived in the Himalayas by helicopter rather than the initially arranged light aircraft as Lukla Airport was closed due to bad weather. Flying over the airport – renowned as one of the most dangerous in the world – and taking in its perilously short runway that ends in a steep drop into the valley below, Rawan was glad of the change in plans.

Then followed more than a month of acclimatising to the altitude and terrain. Adhering to the “climb high, camp low” mountaineers’ adage, Rawan and an international group of 16 other climbers, were led on treks to Everest Base Camp before returning to the relative lower altitudes of settlement Lobuche to rest and recuperate. At an elevation of around 4, 940 metres, Lobuche was the group’s home for 20 days until, taking advantage of some “semi-good weather”, as Rawan puts it, they set up at Base Camp.

Further weather windows allowed the group to make forays to Camp 1 and then Camp 2 on the south face approach to the top, before returning to Base Camp once again. These rotations meant navigating the notorious Khumbu Ice Fall, a glacier that moves around a metre down the mountain every day, forming large crevasses and collapsing large towers of ice as it does so. “Crossing the icefall was harder than the climb at the summit,” Rawan says. “We had to set out very early – around 2am – when the ice is frozen. When the sun hits the ice things start to melt and avalanches are happening around you all the time.”

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/ Rawan Dakik

Each member of the team was assigned their own Sherpa guide and Rawan is full of praise for hers. When crevasses formed from the shifting ice, he would attach a ladder and ropes across the plunging drop so Rawan could edge her way on. “My Sherpa was really amazing,” she says.

“He would call out ‘danger zone, danger zone’, when we approached crevasses. He allowed me to go at my own pace. We didn’t have time to talk much, but he could be really funny. It was his 13th summit and he took good care of me.”

For all the potential danger, Rawan was in her element at Khumbu, interacting with nature and testing her skills in a sport she loves. “The icefall is a cool place,” he says. “The glaciers are right next to you and I got to make use of technical climbing skills such as working with ropes.”

Such focus and experience helped Rawan cope better than most when the next rotation took the group up to Camp 3 where, at altitude of 7,300 metres, the paucity of oxygen in the air becomes desperate. At this stage, altitude sickness forced nine of the group to turn back. Rawan was among the six, along with their sherpas, who kept on towards the summit, making welcome use of the extra oxygen tanks the returning climbers had left behind – even if wearing the mask was, as Rawan says, “annoying as you can barely see where you are going”.

Even with supplemental oxygen, resting beyond a couple of hours at Camp 4, the final camp before the summit, is unbearable and the final ascent – the first time climbers will get to see the summit – is fraught with danger. In mountaineering, altitudes over 8,000 metres are tagged as the “death zone” where the pressure of oxygen can’t sustain human life for long. The top of Everest is 8,849 metres.

The ‘Death Zone’ Rawan saw morbid confirmation that she was entering the “death zone” on her final hundreds of

24 / Twiga

metres to the top as her route took her past three corpses – mummified in the snow and ice – of climbers that had perished in their attempt on Everest. One of the dead had embarked on their climb in the same season as Rawan.

Her parents must have been terrified that their daughter was risking her life? “It’s natural. Every parent would be worried,” Rawan tells me.

“But, they trust me to make the right decisions.”

When Rawan reached the summit she raised Tanzanian and Lebanese flags in tribute to her dual heritage as well as a peace flag. “When I carry both flags it means something very personal,” she says. “I’m proud to be Tanzanian and Lebanese at the same time. Both countries shaped who I am. The peace flag is for world unity.

Lebanon is a harsh environment that has never known lasting peace.”

Mental challenge A fierce wind whipped the flags and 10 minutes later Rawan was beginning her descent. “You have to remind yourself that getting to the top is only half way,” she says.

The descent is often considered the hardest part of the climb when fatigue starts to tell. Rawan felt very weak on the way down, which was part explained when she got her positive covid test on return to Base Camp. Looking back now, though, Rawan feels the most challenging part of the climb was all in her mind.

“The physical part of the climb is not as hard as the mental,” she says.

“I learned a lot of things about myself on Everest.”

While Rawan loves mountain climbing for the opportunity it gives her to commune with nature and reflect alone – “You get time to think. I always have a plan in my head when I come off the mountain,” she says – she was glad of being around other climbers at her low points.

“It really helped to engage with people when I was down,” she says. “I

knew I was going to have times when I struggled and it would be super hard to be alone then. I was lucky that I was with climbers from the US, Sweden and South Africa. They were an interesting group.”

Once back in Tanzania, Rawan was also able to get back to communicating with her online following. “When I see the impact I have on people, it inspires me to keep on inspiring,” she says. As well as her climbing exploits beyond the country’s borders, she has been spreading the word on Tanzania’s natural wonders for some time. That will continue apace now she is a Tourism Ambassador. The appointment is “an honour”, Rawan says, and she adds “the Tanzanian government has always been supportive of me.”

Climbing in Tanzania Rawan knows her country well. Its mountains have been her playground since she was a young girl.

Growing up in Arusha, Mount Meru was her “view very day” and she has climbed it many times along with other favourites such as the highest peaks of the Usambara Mountains and the Ngorongoro Crater.

However, it is Mount Kilimanjaro that has truly captured Rawan’s heart. Wherever she goes – including the summit of Mount Everest – she wears a silver necklace with the word ‘Kilimanjaro’ as its pendant.

Since first climbing it aged 13, she has summited five times “and each time it is different”. “I can talk about Kili for ever,” she laughs. Having Africa’s highest mountain “just two hours” away from where she lives is special.

“I can interact with the porters in Swahili and hear their stories. They climb it as a job and to survive.

Climbing is an amazing way to interact with these cultures. The last time I climbed it via the longer Northern Circuit and took in the amazing views on the Kenyan side.”

Rawan hopes to showcase adventures such as this to intrepid tourists in the future. It’s a career plan she is

Images courtesy of Rawan Dakik

Having Africa’s highest mountain “ just two hours” away from where she lives is special. “I can interact with the porters in Swahili and hear their stories”

/ Rawan Dakik

working towards with her degree in Sports Management at the Geneva Business School in Madrid, Spain.

She still has two years to go on her course as her studies put on hold for a term so she could climb Everest.

Next year, the school’s summer break will find her climbing Denali.

It’s an inspiring lesson that there is always more to learn, always more mountains to look up to. Rawan’s journey gives drive to other who may be facing mountains in their life, real or metaphorical, and can see that they can be overcome by bravery, perseverance and discipline “I always say to myself ‘pain is temporary, but success is worth a lifetime’. Patience and determination got me where I am.”

Rawan’s favourite wild adventures in Tanzania 1 Mount Kilimanjaro 2 Ngorongoro Crater Record-breaker Rawan nears the summit of Mt Everest

3 Lake Chala 4 Usambara Mountains 5 Mount Meru

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Air Tanzania Kibubu

Spread the cost of your flights with KIBUBU

Desperate to jet off somewhere but prefer spreading the cost? Now you can with our newly launched Kibubu service, which lets customers pay for their tickets in instalments up to one week prior to travel.

We’ll secure your trip with a low deposit.

You can pay the balance in as many instalments as you want – it is up to you when you make the payments and how much they are. The only requirement is that you must have paid the full balance by the due date.

The scheme is part of our efforts to make air travel available to all individual budgets as customers no longer have to pay for the full cost of their flight upfront. Kibubu is available to anyone flying with Air Tanzania across all our local and international trips.

Passengers are required to arrange their booking for travel and then pay their first instalment in cash at ATCL offices. We will then issue an EMD (Electronic Miscellaneous Document) for each received instalment and issue a tickets once full payment has been made.

The plan is to expand Kibubu so payments can also be made through banks and via mobile networks.

KIBUBU BENEFITS Flexible repayments Fast and easy Safe and secure No hidden additional costs

GROUP SAVINGS STUDENTS Go as a group for extra savings

Now if you book a trip for five people travelling as a group and pay by Kibubu, you get the chance to invite a sixth person along, who will get a 50 per cent discount for their ticket.

This special offer is only available for bookings made up until November 10.

Pay when you want and keep your discount Did you know that students can still plan early and pay for their flight tickets with Kibubu and still receive the 25 per cent student discount on all our flights?

Kibubu service is found only in Air Tanzania offices. Terms and conditions apply. Visit airtanzania.co.tz to book your trip or call free on 0800 110 045 airtanzania.co.tz / 27

Mumbai

24 hours in…

MUMBAI

Mumbai we’ve missed you. Air Tanzania is delighted to announce the resumption of its flights to the ‘City of Dreams’. You can now fly to Mumbai every Monday and Friday from Julius Nyerere International Airport in Dar es Salaam. Once you arrive, choosing from the wealth of wonders in India’s largest city can be daunting, especially if you’re short on time. With this in mind, Twiga has put together an itinerary for a fun-packed day that gets to the heart of the Gateway of India.

MORNING Start your day early. Mumbai gets incredibly crowded – 22 million people call it home – so to beat the crowds it’s wise to be up with the coppersmith, a beautiful, brightly coloured bird you’ll see all over the Hanging Gardens, you first stop. This verdant and tranquil spot is perched on the top of Malabar Hill, one of Mumbai’s most exclusive residential areas, in the south of the city. It’s a great place to start the day – it opens at 5 am – and offers fantastic views of the Arabian Sea. An early-morning stroll will also give you the chance to visit a roadside stall and get a ‘cutting chai’ (essentially half a cup of tea). It’s what most of the city wakes up to.

After such a serene start, it’s time to embrace the chaos of Mumbai and take a local train. Millions of people use the service daily and it’s a ‘must do’ for visitors. Probably best to buy a first-class ticket – they have also separate compartments for men and women – if you want some breathing room, but this is a fast and affordable way to get about the city.

The train will take you to the glorious Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum, a restored and elaborate 19th-century building packed with rare collections of fine

28 / Twiga

and decorative arts documenting the city’s history.

From there, grab a taxi and head across one of the city’s most iconic modern landmarks, the BandraWorli Sea Link, an eight-lane bridge, built at a cost of US$ 240 million, that curves across Mahim Bay to connect Mumbai’s central business district with its western suburbs.

Once you’re across, leafy Bandra offers another side of the city. It’s a great place to explore on foot along the promenade of Carter Road and to ‘people watch’. You may spot some Bollywood celebs at the tucked away Taj Mahal Tea House, which offers a huge range of tea for the connoisseur as well as delicious snacks and occasional traditional Indian live music.

AFTERNOON Time to head back into the city centre for some retail therapy.

The Colaba Causeway Market is a vibrant area filled with shops and street vendors selling handmade jewellery, clothes and handicrafts.

There are big bargains to be had if you’re prepared to haggle.

Shopping with an arts and culture influence can also be had in the nearby Kala Ghoda precinct. It’s dotted with trendy boutiques such

Take a break at the Taj Mahal Tea House

The Kala Ghoda precinct is Mumbai’s contemporary arts centre

/ 24 hours in… Mumbai

The Gateway of India, a colonial-era arch standing proudly at the mouth of Mumbai harbour

(left) The Jehangir Gallery and (above) the Bandra-Worli Sea Link

CRS PHOTO / Shutterstock.com

CRS PHOTO / Shutterstock.com

as Kulture Shop, which sells the art, fashion, stationery and decorative accessories of over 100 Indian designers. The area is also the centre of Mumbai’s contemporary arts scene and hosts the multicultural Kala Ghoda Arts Festival every February. Galleries abound, both indoors and out on the pavement.

The Jehangir Gallery, a hub for contemporary art activity, is free to enter and always has an interesting work exhibited. You’ll also find local artists spreading their work out on the street at the Kala Ghoda pavement gallery.

From here, it’s a short walk to the Gateway of India, a colonial-era arch standing proudly at the mouth of

Mumbai harbour. It was built to celebrate British rule, which outlasted the building of the arch by just a few decades. This is an excellent spot for a souvenir photograph. It’s also the departure point to Elephanta Island, with its Unesco-listed network of cave temples chiefly dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva.

EVENING A short taxi ride takes you to Marine Drive, with its spectacular sunsets, while a few streets back from the beach you’ll find the Revival Indian Thali restaurant, famous with locals for serving the best thali – a selection of curry, vegetable and rice dishes served on a platter – in

Mumbai. Bring your appetite, because waiters will keep piling your plate high should you wish it.

For a far less formal eating experience, you could join hundreds of other Mumbaikars on neighbouring Chowpatty Beach enjoying the sand and sunset while drinking and eating local delicacies from street sellers.

For the evening’s entertainment, a short walk from here takes you to the Royal Opera House, the only remaining building of its kind in Mumbai, recently restored to its original Baroque splendour.

If opera is not your scene, you’ll also find an on-site live music venue, The Quarter, which has regular jazz nights.

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Swahili story

Baba Na Wana Father and Sons

BY FRANK MASAI Frank Masai (pictured, left) is a writer with more than 30 stories to his name. This morality tale centres on the importance of being thankful for what you have now as you never know when you will come to miss it. It’s a lesson the sons of a hunter father are about to learn the hard way.

B

ABA mmoja alikuwa na wana watatu wa kiume aliowapenda sana. Alibarikiwa utajiri wa mali hivyo alikuwa anawapa kila kitu. Mbali na utajiri, mzee huyo alikuwa anapenda sana kuwinda. Alikuwa anaweza kupotea nyumbani wiki nzima. Siku akija, basi huja na nyama nyingi ambayo mkewe huioka vema na kuifanya kitoweo.

Kwa bahati mbaya, hakuna mtoto aliyetaka kujifunza kuwinda. Walikuwa na harakati nyingi za kusoma na kutanua na mali za baba yao. Kuwaza kuwinda kwao lilikuwa ni wazo gumu sana licha ya baba kuonyesha nia ya kuwafundisha.

maneno ya hekima. Aliwapenda na hakutaka kuwakera. Hivyo kwenye nyama aliongeza na vyakula vingine vya kisasa vilivyowafanya wale watoto wafurahie.

Hakika lililo na mwanzo, halikosi kuwa na mwisho. Yule mzee alipokwenda porini kwa ajili ya kuwinda, alikutana na kifaru mwenye hasira aliyemkimbiza mzee. Alipomkaribia alimdondosha na kumkanyaga hovyo bila huruma. Mzee alipoteza maisha bila kusema lolote kwa wanawe.

Kuna siku wazazi bila kutegemea, walipokea malalamiko toka kwa wana wao ya kuwa wamezichoka nyama.

Ulikuwa ni msiba mkubwa kwa ile familia. Walilia lakini hakukuwa na wa kuwafuta machozi kama ambavyo baba yao angewafuta. Mama yao alilia zaidi kumpoteza mumewe kipenzi. Hakuishia kumlilia mumewe pekee, pia aliwalilia wanawe. Ilikuwa ni masikitiko makubwa lakini mwisho wa yote walizika na kubakiza historia kuwa alikuwepo baba tajiri na muwindaji ambaye aliipenda sana familia yake.

“Baba kila siku unatuletea manyama tu.

Tumechoka manyama bwana. Tuletee chakula kingine.” Ni baadhi ya maneno ambayo watoto waliyaropoka kwenda kwa baba yao.

Baada ya mwezi mmoja, ndugu wenye tamaa waliivamia ile familia na kuwadhulumu mali zote baada ya mama kulaghaiwa na wifi zake na kutoa nyaraka muhimu za mali.

Mzee yule ambaye hakuwa na kinyongo, alitabasamu na kuwabembeleza kwa

Mama pamoja na watoto walifukuzwa na kuporwa mali karibu zote. Walilia lakini

Siku zikasonga. Na baba alikuwa analeta nyamapori kila ilipokwisha. Mama alifurahi jitihada za mumewe. Pia alifurahi kwani watoto wake wasingekula mboga ambazo zilihesabika kama za kimasikini.

hakuna ambaye aliwajali. Mwishowe walikubali kushindwa na kwenda kijijini ambako marehemu mzee wao alikuwa kajenga nyumba moja ambayo kutokana na kutotumiwa muda mrefu, ilikuwa imechakaa. Huko wakaanza maisha mapya huku mama akichakarika huku na huko kuwatafutia wanawe chakula na malazi bora.

Miezi mitatu ilitosha kuiita ile familia ni masikini. Mavazi na miili yao vilisadifu ufukara uliowakumba. Mboga zao kuu zilikuwa ni maharagwe, mboga za majani na mara mojamoja dagaa huku siku zingine wakikosa kabisa hata unga wa uji.

Ndipo walipomkumbuka baba yao kipenzi jinsi alivyokuwa anawasihi wale nyama kwa wingi. Mzee wao alifahamu kuwa ipo siku watazikosa. Walizitamani zile nyama ambazo walikula hadi kuzimwaga lakini hawakuzipata kwani hawakujua kuwinda wala kuzitafuta.

Wafanye nini?

——————— Kumbuka MUNGU anatoa kwa sababu.

Usidharau ukipatacho na kumkashifu anayekuletea. Shukuru upewacho leo kwani wengine hata kuviona, hawavioni.

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Re-introducing rhinos

BLACK RHINOS are back in Mkomazi National Park

After years of poaching brought about their extinction, a small population of eastern black rhinos has been reintroduced into Mkomazi National Park on Tanzania’s northern border. Some are being cared for in the park’s new rhino sanctuary, which it is hoped will provide a safe breeding environment and a new population of this critically endangered animal. Nature-loving Tanzanian filming and production company Ngoteya Wild, which loves to spread the word on conservation projects in the country, gained exclusive access to the sanctuary’s team and its crucial work. Here is their story.

All images: Eliya Uzia, wildlife photographer at Ngoteya Wild airtanzania.co.tz / 33

/ Re-introducing rhinos

M

komazi National Park is among the youngest of the 22 national parks in Tanzania. The Park lies within the larger Tsavo Mkomazi ecosystem which hosts over 12,000 elephants.

It was established in 2008 when the country’s government took over the Mkomazi-Umba Game Reserve, which had in recent years seen its populations of elephant, African wild dog, greater kudu, sable antelope and brindled gnu/ wildebeest dwindle as a result of factors such as livestock incursion and poaching. The most striking victim was the black rhino, which had been hunted into extinction.

The area was home to 200 eastern black rhinos in the 1960s but by 1985 none remained. The Tanzanian government began restoration efforts in the 1990s in collaboration with George Adamson Wildlife Preservation Trust with award-winning conservationist Tony Fitzjohn as field director.

34 / Twiga

The trust brought four new black rhinos in from Addo Elephant National Park in South Africa to Mkomazi in the hope that they would in time begin a new native colony.

In the years leading up to 2016, 11 more East African subspecies of the black rhino were introduced from zoos across Europe. It is hoped that in time a viable breeding population will be created with sufficient genetic diversity to ensure its offspring can adapt to the new environment. This year the population of black rhinos in Mkomazi stands at over 35.

The purpose of this new sanctuary is not only to boost tourism but provide the stressfree environment the rhinos need to breed

Qualified team As the black rhino numbers have increased, the park’s staff has kept pace with new team members brought in for the rescue, care and rehabilitation of sick, injured or orphaned rhinos. In the past two years, one orphaned baby rhino named Kisima was rescued in the wild at about three months following the sudden death of the

Feeding time – a young rhino at the sanctuary

mother because of sand colic. The calf was taken care of by park staff and is now 15 months old and in good health.

This level of care is expensive and currently Mkomazi is considered a dependent park because it cannot generate sufficient revenue to fund its operations. To make the park self-sustaining, efforts are underway to attract more tourists to one of Tanzania’s most remote national parks. These efforts included the opening of the Mkomazi Rhino Sanctuary in July this year and the development of new tourist products including night game drives and bush meals. The new sanctuary has

/ Re-introducing rhinos

Rhino fun facts Greek Rhinoceros is a Greek word. ‘Rhino’ means ‘nose’ and ‘ceros’ means ‘horn’.

Lip Black rhinos have a prehensile or hooked lip for pulling leaves off branches.

Toes Like ballet dancers, but slightly heavier, rhinos move on their toes. Impressive when you consider an adult black rhino weighs between 800 and 1,400 kilograms.

Skin With thick, but pale skin, rhinos are at risk of sun burn. That’s why they often wallow in mud to get a layer of protection.

Big started with a founder population of about six rhinos. It is hoped such unique features as the sanctuary will bring in more tourists to Mkomazi and generate a level of revenue which will help the park to break even soon.

Stress-free environment The transfer of rhinos to the sanctuary was the first-ever translocation to be fully conducted by local Tanzanians. The purpose of this new sanctuary is not only to boost tourism but provide the stress-free environment the rhinos need to breed. Funds collected from rhino tourism will also support community outreach work in villages surrounding the Park in the hope that Mkomazi’s rhino population will never again be wiped out by poachers.

The signs look good. Since the first of the rhinos were introduced here, Mkomazi has gone 22 years without any incidents of poaching

and it once again has a diverse and thriving wildlife population with a good number of wild animals including the Big 5 of black rhinos, elephants, buffaloes, leopards and lions.

The Ngoteya Wild team were so fortunate to take photographs and create this short documentary about the conservation efforts done by the government. We hope to create awareness and inspire conservation of these species in different parts of the world.

Black rhinos are the third biggest of the five types of rhino.

Diet Black rhinos are the foodies of the wild.

The herbivores eat leafy plants, branches, shoots, bushes and fruit from up to 220 different species.

GET TO MKOMAZI NATIONAL PARK WITH AIR TANZANIA Fly into Kilimanjaro International Airport. Head to Moshi, which is around 30km distance. Here there will be plenty of choice of tour operators or public transport to take you the 112km south to Mkomazi, which is right next to the small town of Same.

Visit airtanzania.co.tz to book your trip or call free on 0800 110 045 for more information.

FIND OUT MORE WITH NGOTEYA WILD For more pictures and a trailer of the documentary, visit @ngoteya_wild on Instagram

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Jacaranda Music Festival

Mgcini Nyoni Photography

JACARANDA GETS

CREATIVE as a Covid-era festival

The Jacaranda Music Festival has seen an exponential rise in popularity since it began seven years ago. However, adaptations in light of current Covid restrictions may well see the Harare showcase for emerging and established African musical talent reach its biggest audience yet with a physical and virtual festival running concurrently. Cecilia Kamuputa finds out more.

F

ollowing the easing of the Covid-19 lockdown measures in Zimbabwe, this year’s edition of the annual Jacaranda Music Festival will, for the first time since it began, be held as a hybrid event with a virtual aspect and physical festival being held simultaneously.

Speaking to Twiga, Jacaranda Music Festival founder and artistic director Walter Wanyanya expressed his belief that this strategy would guarantee the festival a wider reach around the world.

“We will also have a bigger and stronger presence as far as the educational aspect of the festival goes as we will have 15 high profile music executives coming into Zimbabwe for workshops and conferences [as part of] our goal to educate our creatives on how they can be better

players in the growing global creative economy,” revealed Wanyanya.

He added that the speakers and panellists were all part of an exciting new organisation called Cultural Connections Africa (CCA) set up to connect African creatives and attract resources to grow the African creative space. “The group will hold its first annual conference in Zimbabwe during the festival,” he said.

Local artists onboard Wanyanya has chosen upmarket conference and events establishment The Venue, located in the Zimbabwe capital's vibrant suburb of Avondale, to host the event.

The music, workshops and get-togethers will run under the theme ‘Towards a vibrant creative economy’ and an impressive line-up of local

Zim musician Oliver Mtukudzi on stage

South African singer Yvonne Chaka Chaka entertains the crowds

artists, including Masa, Bryan K, Mokoomba, have already confirmed they will be gracing the stage.

The festival kicks off with two days of workshops on October 6 and 7 before the main festival gets going on October 8 and 9 with three hours of live performances from 6.30pm each night.

Wanyanya admitted that the uncertainty surrounding the pandemic and the ensuing lockdowns have been the greatest obstacles to planning the festival this year. He gave thanks to the health workers that have been dedicated to keeping the pandemic under control.

“The safety and health of our audience, staff and artists taking part in the festival is critical,” he said.

“Everyone who will be working or performing will have to be fully

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/ Jacaranda Music Festival

vaccinated or provide a negative Covid test result from approved laboratories. We will also be giving everyone masks and personal hand sanitisers as part of the festival package and the venue will be disinfected and sanitised according to Covid regulations.”

Global audience Looking back, Wanyanya said 2020 was a difficult year for Jacaranda as they did not get an opportunity to gather physically for the Festival, with the entire celebration held virtually.

“We however managed to bring some cheer to people in their homes through it all.”

The idea to create the festival came to Wanyanya seven years ago when he saw the need for a festival that would be a celebration of music and its host city, Harare.

“We have however seen that the festival attracts people from all over Zimbabwe and the world, having seen people travel from as far as Germany and the USA in 2019 when we last had a physical gathering,” said Wanyanya.

A festival for music lovers The festival was given its name in honour of the beautiful jacaranda trees that are in full flower in the capital at this time of year. The festival has also bloomed with more music lovers attending each year “If you love good music you are

the target audience,” said Wanyanya.

“It is a celebration of life.”

Some of the big names to have headlined the festival in the past include South Africans Micasa, Ringo, Black Motion, DJ Zinhle and Yvonne Chaka Chaka as well as Zimbabwean musicians such as Mokoomba and the internationally acclaimed cultural icon, Dr Oliver Mtukudzi.

“As far as our performers’ wish-list goes, we hope to reach out to the rest of Africa for acts in this and coming years because in the last few years we have had mostly Southern African acts.”

The organisers have had to foot 90 per cent of the bill for the Jacaranda

'A celebration of life' – a packed house at 2019's festival

The festival attracts people from all over Zimbabwe and the world, having seen people travel from as far as Germany and the USA in 2019

Music Festival over the years and are keen to partner with a headline sponsor for this year’s event.

Wanyanya says they are talking to a few players who will be their partners for next year’s festival.

Wanyanya revealed that there are plans to raise the standard of how Jacaranda presents music to its audience and that they are dedicated to a bringing a never-before-seen immersive live music experience for festival goers.

To ensure the festival and others like it are a success, Wanyanya wants more people to get vaccinated. He believes it is the only way for the return of music festivals across the continent.

“Gatherings around music and sports are critical for the general well-being of people and we need to go back to whatever will be a new normal that is safe for all.”

For latest updates on venue and lineup, visit the Jacaranda Music Festival’s Facebook page.

JACARANDA ACTS TO LOOK OUT FOR Masa

Bryan K

Mokoomba

Caroleen Nqobile Masawi, popularly known by her stage name Masa, is a fast rising Zimbabwean singer and songwriter.

Before her solo success she was the lead singer of the Sunsets jazz band. Make sure you get to the stage for her show.

Her sultry voice and deep lyrics make for unforgettable performances.

Bryan Kadengu, known as Bryan K, is an Afro-soul music from Zimbabwe. He sprung to fame by winning talent contest Starbrite Zimbabwe in 2012 and as a sought-after guitarist he has performed alongside the likes of Uhuru and Toya Delazy from South Africa, Lucius Banda from Malawi, Young Fathers from the UK and Mokoomba from Zimbabwe. Last year the bi-lingual artist – he sings in Shana and English – released his third album, Bibo Worldwide.

Sure to be a highlight of the festival, this band, whose members come from Victoria Falls, bring to the stage an electrifying blend of Afro-fusion and tantalizing traditional Tonga rhythms. The band have released three albums, which have brought them acclaim at home and internationally with UK newspaper The Guardian touting them as “the best young band in Zimbabwe”.

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Cooking with Belinda Mkony

Thai dish with a Tanzanian twist Twiga has a new cookery columnist, Tanzanian food enthusiast Belinda Mkony. An architect by trade, Belinda also loves to get creative in the kitchen and shares her dishes at catering events in Dar es Salaam and on her YouTube channel. Check her out at forkurmunchies. com. Branding herself the ‘rebel cook’, she loves to kick out the rule book and put her own spin on classic recipes, blending inspirations from local and international cuisine. That mix-and-match style is in evidence in her first recipe for Twiga, a delicious Tanzanian twist on Thai Penang curried prawns she calls Kamba Wa Kupaka. Enjoy!

A

lot of my ideas come from expanding my cultural taste buds by keeping an open mind about how flavours intermingle and create an harmonious experience. With this dish I was able to bring together Thai and Swahili culture to create something new and distinctive. It’s all about being a rebel in the kitchen, and letting my creativity work its magic.

Both cultures use plenty of coconut milk in their curries to give it body and my Kamba Wa Kupaka is packed with flavours and goodness. Prawns are meant to be handled with care and cooked very quickly, hence this is a quick and easy recipe. The ingredients are easy to source, the cooking is simple and it tastes amazing.

I hope you get to try cooking this curry at home and have fun doing it.

40 / Twiga

All images courtesy of Belinda Mkony

/ Cooking with Belinda Mkony

Kamba Wa Kupaka Recipe Ingredients: 6 400g raw tiger prawns with tails on, cleaned properly.

6 2 medium ripe tomatoes finely chopped

6 1 tsp of turmeric powder

6 3 cloves of garlic finely chopped or pounded to a paste

6 1 tsp of cumin powder 6 1 tsp of cayenne pepper 6 1 tsp of hot curry powder 6 1 tbsp of white wine vinegar 6 A pinch of Salt 6 1 tbsp vegetable oil 6 1 medium finely chopped onion 6 1 tbsp of sweet tamarind sauce

6 1 piece of ginger finely chopped or pounded to a paste 6 400mls of coconut milk 6 Half a cup of water 6 2 sliced green chilies 6 A pinch of sugar 6 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves to garnish

6 1 tbsp of coriander stalks finely chopped 6 Juice of 1 lime

Step-by-step guide: 1. In a bowl add the prawns and sprinkle over the turmeric, cayenne, vinegar and salt. Mix them well and set aside for 10 to 20 minutes while you prep other ingredients.

2. Heat the oil in a wok or a heavybased saucepan. Add the onions and sauté them on a medium heat until they are translucent. Add the cumin, turmeric, coriander and curry powder to release their aromas. Once the onions have taken on the vibrant yellow colour of the curry add the garlic, ginger and chopped chili and fry for another minute.

3. Add the chopped tomato and cook for a further three to five

minutes until it loosens into a sauce. Sprinkle on some sugar to reduce the acidity of the tomatoes.

4. Now add your coconut milk mixed with some water and tamarind sauce, stir it continuously for two to four minutes until it starts to bubble.

5. Get your marinated prawns, drop them gently in the sauce. Stir to coat them in the spiced curry for a few seconds until they turn pink.

This should take no longer than three minutes – we do not want overcooked prawns!

6. Add the lime juice to finish off with some brightness and a zing.

Remember, it’s all about creating a balance of flavours.

7. Garnish with coriander leaves and check the seasoning.

8. You can serve with white jasmine rice, basmati rice, chapati, ramen noodles or naan bread and a side salad of some Kachumbari to add freshness.

FOLLOW BELINDA To keep up with her latest recipes and events, visit Fork.Ur.Munchies on Instagram

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Tanzania's natural beauty products

GET THAT NATURAL

GLOW

Our region is incredibly rich in natural ingredients that have been used in skin care rituals through the generations. That’s why Tanzanian-owned health and wellness company Zen Organics packs its grounded-in-nature beauty products with herbs, oils and plants found here and across East Africa.

The company’s founder, Perryn Luze, shares with Twiga some of her favourite natural remedies and how they can be used to pamper skin and give us that glow inside and out.

Turmeric Where cultivated: Mostly in the highlands surrounding Tanga as well as on Unguja and Pemba islands in Zanzibar.

Growing up my mum and I used to do facial masks of turmeric, lemon and honey. It made my skin so soft and gave it a natural glow. At the moment at Zen Organics we are working on a turmeric mask that will definitely be a go-to natural skin remedy for skin problems.

Look out for it!

The reason turmeric is so restorative to the skin is that it is packed full of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory components. These characteristics revive your skin by bringing out its natural glow.

By adding turmeric to your daily skincare routines, you will also see its benefits in healing wounds, preventing and calming acne breakouts, battling other

42 / Twiga

skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis and brightening dark circles under the eyes.

Neem oil Where cultivated: In the Morogoro region.

Neem – mwarobaini in Swahili – is known for its healing properties. The neem tree is something of a natural pharmacy. Its bark, leaves, and seeds are used to make medicine for leprosy, eye disorders, bloody nose, intestinal worms, stomach upset, loss of appetite, skin ulcers, diseases of the heart and blood vessels (cardiovascular disease), fever, diabetes, gum disease (gingivitis), and liver problems.

Neem oil, which is made from the tree’s seeds, is a much sought after ingredient for cosmetic products. All of neem’s antiseptic, antiviral, antibacterial, and antifungal properties are found in the oil.

At Zen Organics we cold press an organic neem oil which purifies, repairs and heals from head to toe. It can be used to treat acne and hyperpigmentation, heal burns and abrasions, moisturise the skin, relieve dandruff, stimulate hair growth, repair the skin and hair from environmental damage, treat head lice and fungal infections.

/ Tanzania's natural beauty products

Aloe Vera Where cultivated: In Tanzania the plant is mainly grown in the Morogoro and Dodoma regions.

Baobab oil Where cultivated: Dodoma and Iringa.

Baobab, the ‘tree of life’, has been part of African skincare for centuries. Women have long been using it to repair the damage to their skin caused by use of chemical products and make-up.

Cold pressed from the seeds of the baobab fruit, this nutrient-rich, luxurious oil contains a high content of vitamins, plenty of antioxidants and omega fatty acids, which are essential for the maintenance of healthy skin. It’s ideal to use on the hair and skin because its lightweight texture absorbs easily without leaving any greasy residue.

Zen Organic’s organic baobab oil is skin microbiome friendly meaning it is great for any skin type, including oily skin, dry skin, and sensitive skin. It has excellent moisturising properties and promotes skin cell rejuvenation.

Aloe Vera is a plant of many surprises and it has certainly done wonders to my skin.

The clear gel-like substance inside the leaves of the plant contains 75 potentially active constituents - vitamins, enzymes, minerals, sugars, lignin, saponins, salicylic acids, and amino acids. Such an army of nutrients give aloe its natural healing capacity. It can help dry skin conditions, especially eczema around the eyes and sensitive facial skin, and for treating fungal infections. No wonder the Egyptians used to call it “the plant of immortality”

Its high levels of vitamins A, D and E means that it also helps counter dry skin and nails. The oil is also packed with vitamin C – more than six oranges’ worth – which stimulates the skins production of collagen and restores its elasticity. This means stronger skin with fewer fine lines and wrinkles.

Zen Organic’s organic baobab oil is skin microbiome friendly meaning it is great for any skin type, including oily skin, dry skin, and sensitive skin

MORE INFORMATION Zen Organics is a Tanzanian skin care company that handcrafts a range of oils and soaps made from natural ingredients grown here and across East Africa. To shop and explore its products, visit its Instagram page @zen.organic

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Ghaamid Abdulbasat Hatibu

‘I have made saving the environment

COOL’ Ghaamid Abdulbasat Hatibu is an awardwinning 24-year-old environmental influencer dedicated to involving young Tanzanians in efforts to combat climate change. Here he talks to Mark Edwards about how he sees individual action bringing about collective change

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ou have to imagine that no-one feels the weight of climate change more acutely than the young. They and their children to come have been left with an environmental burden because of the failure of previous generations to tackle the problem. This year has put the issue in stark relief with heatwaves and hurricanes in the US, flooding in Europe and China, and, closer to home, Cyclone Jobo hitting

the Tanzanian coastline and Zanzibar archipelago. The latest report from the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change concluded it is an “established fact” these extremes of weather were the result of human-caused warming.

There is fear, despair and anger among Generation Z, but also, according to 24-year-old environmental campaigner Ghaamid Abdulbasat Hatibu, there is hope.

The Tanzanian has taken to heart the do-or-die call to action of UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon: “We are also the last generation that can slow global warming before it is too late.”

Ghaamid realises that to have hope for the future requires unprecedented collective action. Since his late teens the Sokoine University of Agriculture graduate has taken it upon himself to be a rallying

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/ Ghaamid Abdulbasat Hatibu

Ghaamid was made one of the National Geographic's Young Explorers last year

voice in Tanzania and beyond its borders, galvanising his peers to drive environmental policy change. He has made award-winning educational videos about issues such as desertification, is the ambassador of more than five international environment coalitions representing his country and has harnessed the power of social media to organise and educate young Tanzanians about the climate crisis. “I have made it cool to be an environmentalist,” he says.

Climate ambassador Last year, Ghaamid was chosen by the Earth Day Network – the world’s largest recruiter to the environmental movement – to be its regional co-ordinator for Sub-Saharan Africa.

As any self-respecting Gen Zer does, Ghaamid loves his social media, but not just to post selfies and blogs but a place “to organise and educate” people about the climate crisis. He oversees the network’s Earth Challenge App, which allows users (the free app can be downloaded for iOS and Android phones) to share photos of plastic pollution in their communities.

For Ghaamid, the app is “an amazing way to mobilise the youth to document the extent of the problem” and the weight of feeling behind the need for change.

As users take a picture of any build-up of plastic waste they see, they can tag it with the GPS co-ordinates of its location. The shared pictures and their map points ultimately are presented to local and national governments in the hope they will form a

46 / Twiga

persuasive argument for swift action.

The app is a key tool in the network’s Citizen Science Africa programme – other apps include ‘Save the Bees’ in which users can take photos of bees, an important indicator of ecosystem health, and tag by genus and location – which Ghaamid is helping to set up in the region to inspire people around the world to monitor threats to the environment and human health in their communities.

The body of data from Tanzania is extensive – more than 500 images have been uploaded on the Earth Challenge App from Dar es Salaam alone – where Ghaamid has been heavily involved in projects such as the country’s chapter of the High Seas Alliance, a NGO which tackles the impact

local pollution issues can have the much bigger and more critically threatened eco systems of the oceans. He also leads the Tanzanian Youth Biodiversity Network since it was set up in 2018. Here he has a team of around 200 volunteers who organise regular events such as beach clean-ups and tree-planting programmes as well as a series of biodiversity workshops and clubs at Sokoine and the University of Zanzibar.

HOW TO PLAY YOUR PART Ghaamid shares some tips on what we can all do to combat climate change • Don’t litter. I always carry a reusable bottle for my drinks and if I create rubbish, I put it in my pocket until I find a recycling point to get rid of it.

• Educate yourself. Access as much information on the subject as you can. Digital media is a great learning resource.

• Make your voice heard by those in power. The policy makers need to know the extent of the problem.

• Respect and protect green spaces. They help to cool overheated urban areas and are habitats for wildlife. Love them or lose them.

/ Ghaamid Abdulbasat Hatibu

In Tanzania we have a big job to do.

But we have to work together on community-focused projects to get our voices amplified and bring about change @el_gamedoh

The network’s beach clean-ups take place each year on Earth Day – a globally recognised call for environmental reform held every April 22 and which last year marked its 50th anniversary – but they have inspired the Mayor of Dar es Salaam to organise a similar event every month.

Ghaamid helps drum up support for each event through Facebook posts and says more than 50 volunteers turned up for the last event. He tells me: “If people are out there asking themselves ‘what can I do to play a part?’ they can follow our digital media outlets for a host of ideas.”

Community is the key Ghaamid understands that sense of overwhelm the youth of Tanzania may feel at the scale of the task involved in bringing climate change under control. “In Tanzania we have a big job to do,” he says. “But we have to work together on community-focused projects to get our voices amplified and bring about change.”

Ghaamid believes environmentalists such as him do have the ear of the Tanzanian government and points to the country’s 2019 ban on single-use plastic bags and the meeting this September between

UN Deputy Secretary General Amina Mohammed and Tanzanian President Suluhu Samia in which a roadmap to achieving the UN’s 17 global sustainable goals – which include climate action – was discussed.

While he sets a powerful example now, Ghaamid admits he hasn’t always been so switched on about environmental issues. “I was just a normal kid,” he says. “I wanted to grow up and become an airline pilot. I can remember speaking about global warming as part of my general studies at high school and not really understanding it.”

Rising profile The awareness shift came at Sokoine University, where Ghaamid studied for a BSC in environmental sciences. The course gave him a chance to study meteorology and the environment and his life gained new direction. Soon the impassioned Ghaamid had taken on the role of the university’s environmental influencer, mobilising his fellow students about the dangers of climate change.

He set up his own YouTube channel and his videos on topics such as desertification in Africa beat entries from across the world to twice win the United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification video and photo competition. He also won first prize at the similarly global TveBiomovies environment video competition. Since leaving university, his video work has continued with creation of a video series on environmental awareness known as the GM Climate Series.

@GhaamidMavura

His rising profile has brought him to the attention of the National Geographic Society, which invests in innovative leaders in science. Last year it inducted him into its Young Explorers fellowship and awarded him a grant to pursue his environmental projects.

More financial support has come from international study programme Erasmus Mundus, which has in the last few months given him a scholarship to help him with eco-hydrology projects. It’s an area that has consumed him of late and his enthusiasm for the topic is palpable as he talks to me.

“I love that you can use nature itself to reverse some of the damage we have done to it. For example, we have used tree planting around river banks to improve water flow and reduce flooding. We have also been working in mining regions in Tanzania where mercury has seeped into water sources. We have found a plant that feeds on that mercury and effectively cleans the water.”

Ghaamid is a driven man and his work rarely lets up. When we speak over the phone he is attending a Unesco workshop on disaster reduction being held at a hotel in Bagamoyo. The Unesco youth ambassador is able to spare me some time to share his message in a break between presentations.

To Ghaamid, such a work ethic is essential. There is no time to lose. This environmental influencer wants you to seize the moment with him.

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Legal eye

Investing in the future of Tanzania’s wildlife Dar es Salaam law firm Victory Attorneys breaks down the legal complexities of applying for and running a Special Wildlife Investment Concession Areas or Swica.

In a bid to address issues the threaten this country’s world-renowned wildlife and nature – such as habitat loss, poaching and lack of funding – the government of Tanzania has set up Special Wildlife Investment Concession Areas (Swica). As a wildlife-based tourism investment, these protected areas present fantastic wildlife conservation investment opportunities for private sector engagement as well as an opportunity to lower barriers in wildlife management mandates and help in developing wildlife economies that support local communities.

The Wildlife Conservation (Special Wildlife Investment Concession Areas) Regulations of 2020 (GN No. 28) came into effect in May this year and allow engagement of private sector through concession arrangements.

Arrangements can be achieved through solicited proposals – prompted by an invitation or request from the Tanzania Wildlife Management Authority (Tawa) – and unsolicited proposal when requests to Tawa are initiated by the applicant.

The latter allows requisition of Swica arrangement without necessarily waiting for Government solicitation which may take time and sometimes limit investor’s objectives in terms of the size and location of concession area.

Requirements for the granting of a Swica

concession contract, all immovable assets in Swica shall be vested into Tawa.

Capital requirement

Legal assessment

If business is locally owned, the capital needs to be at least US$ 20,000,000 and if it is a joint venture in which majority shareholders are foreigners the capital shall not be less than US$ 50,000,000.

Concession agreements require a deep understating of legal framework in the concession area and undertakings desired by the investor and counter party as well as assessment and assignment of financial, technical and operational risks.

Legal expertise is necessarily required in establishing whether the proposed arrangement is viable under the existing legal frameworks. Also, legal assessment is vital for reviewing regulations that may affect the project’s attractiveness to investors, including tax liabilities and labour arrangements as well as establishing what kind of wildlife management activities is allowed in the granted Swica.

Supportive capacity The investing company must be able to demonstrate it has the capacity to support public efforts in ensuring sustainable conservation of wildlife resources.

Size of concession area The investing company must also be able to demonstrate it can manage a concession area of not less than 200 square km (the minimum size for Swica).

Security Bond This applies especially in an unsolicited proposal whereby TAWA may require the applicant to submit a bond of two per cent of the minimum investment capital as guarantee that shall be refunded in case of unsuccessful application.

Once an award for concession in SWICA is granted, the concession period shall be 30 years subject to renewal. However, renewal shall not be granted if concessionaire does not score at least 50 per cent in the performance of his obligations in the contract, which include ecological integrity, compliance with laws, business plan in terms of conservation, tourism and communities.

Upon expiration or termination of

Feasibility study A feasibility study must be conducted by an investor aiming at establishing both economic, environmental and socio-cultural viability of the project.

Monitoring and evaluation During the entire period of the concession contract, Tawa will monitor the performance of investor/concessionaire based on Key Performance Indicators (KPI) agreed upon between parties before commencement of concession contract.

For more information, call Victory Attorneys & Consultants on +255 752 089 685, email info@victoryattorneys.co.tz or visit its offices at 1st Floor, IT Plaza Building, Ohio Street/ Garden Avenue, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. airtanzania.co.tz / 49

LOVING THE LAKE ZONE

Dietmar Temps / Shutterstock.com

Kagera region

Intriguing islands

With Mwanza, Geita-Chato and Bukoba airports among Air Tanzania’s network of domestic destinations, no other carrier can match the access we give our passengers to the country’s Lake Zone. This most north-western corner of Tanzania has rarely registered on the tourism radar, but our flights are revealing what everyone has been missing. To highlight some of the hidden treasures of the Kagera region Twiga has called upon award-winning Bukoba-based travel company Kiroyera Tours, which has been organising amazing community-based tourism experiences there for the past 20 years. Mary Kaikawe – the company’s director and one of five sisters behind the family-run operation – reveals the breath-taking mountains, wildlife-packed national parks, rich culture and beautiful beaches that await you.

The Lake Zone offers the chance to travel off the beaten track and discover legendary lake islands with fascinating stories to tell. Among them is Ukerewe, the largest island in Lake Victoria and the largest inland island in Africa. It is approximately 530 km² and is surrounded by over 10 smaller islands. It has an intriguing European history, but today it is best known for providing a safe haven for Tanzanians living with albinism and for its indigenous Kerewe people, whose arresting culture includes the carving of large wooden figures, about 90 cm high, in tribute to former chiefs. The island’s simple rural life is based on community values and sustainable living, including highly successful farming techniques in which every patch of land and tree is individually cared for and owned. A visit here brings a chance to experience a part of Africa few have seen.

Fantastic food The Bahaya people that live in the Kagera region on the western side of Lake Victoria are well known for their food and hospitality. It’s a fertile part of the country with the lush landscape dominated by farmland and fresh produce is a key part of the Bahaya cuisine. Traditional favourites include cooked green bananas, yams, local fruits, staple green vegetables and, of

course, plenty of fresh fish from Lake Victoria. Mary says: “The food is traditionally served on an aromatic banana leaf laid on a bed of grass and you eat by hand while sitting on mats on the floor.” There are also plenty of opportunities to take a tour of the vanilla, banana or coffee farms that pepper the region, where you’ll get a chance to sample the produce.

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Kagera region

Wonderful waterways The Kagera River carries water from the source of the Nile and flows into Lake Victoria, along the. way forming a natural border between Tanzania and its triptych of neighbours – Uganda, Rwanda and Burundi – in the north west. In this way, a trip along the river gives true insight into this remote corner of Tanzania and beyond. The river’s eastern bank meets Ibanda Kyerwa Park, one of Tanzania’s newest national parks, and provides nourishment for its rich resources. Mary says: “Besides Kagera River and Lake Victoria other significant water bodies are River Ngono, which has scenic valley views from rising escarpments. There is also Lake Ikimba and Lake Burigi.”

Beautiful birds The Lake Zone has a range of habitats to support a biodiverse bird population. It is home to more than 400 species of birds and visitors can view a wide variety of birds on any one day, including Malabou storks, kites, kingfishers, bee-eaters, weavers and swallows. Few know more about bird life in the region than Kiroyera Tours guide Mugashe, who is Bukoba born and has been leading tours across the Lake Zone for more than 40 years. He started out as a tour guide in the Lake Manyara National Park, introducing

Best beaches Tanzania’s white sand beaches along its Indian Ocean coastline may grab the headlines, but it also has some excellent freshwater beaches around Lake Victoria. Malaika Beach Resort, in Mwanza, is an exclusive option with its private beach and infinity pool while Chato Beach Resort is ideally placed for trips to Rubondo Island National Park.

Kiroyera has its own campsite and base

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for its tours at Maruku Paradise Beach, which was given the name by colonial visitors who frequented the spot when Bukoba was part of German East Africa in the late 19th century and were struck by its pristine sands. The beach lies 25 km south of the city and the drive from town passes the Kyamunene waterfall, which Maria stays is well worth stopping off at.

the wildlife of the area to visitors that included a then young US senator named Barack Obama. Both were bound for bigger things with Mugashe soon selected to work in the world-famous Serengeti National Park, helping to spread understanding of the work done there. Now back in Bukoba, he works as a school teacher, but any free time is spent on the shores of Lake Victoria bird watching. It’s a passion he is only too happy to share and he is available to lead tours on foot or by boat on Lake Victoria.

/ Kagera region

Bustling Bukoba Bukoba can trace its roots back to 1890 when German troops built a boma here to guard against the British, who were ruling Uganda, invading what was then German East Africa. Now, the bustling city is the capital of the Kagera region and is Tanzania’s second largest port on Lake Victoria. Its setting is breathtakingly picturesque, occupying the western shores of the lake and with the Kamachumu escarpment looming above it. Kiroyera showcases the natural beauty of Bukoba with hiking tours among these rocky uprisings, which afford incredible views over the city and of the Ngono River as it meanders into the lake.

At the trail’s highest point is the Bugonzi waterfall while the descent offers the chance to visit a traditional Haya house, called a mushonge, which Kiroyera has turned into a museum full of artefacts that reveal how the early inhabitants of this land lived. Visitors are assured of a warm welcome in Bukoba. The city – along with the rest of the Kagera region – is renowned for its diversity, tolerance and understanding. The African Roman Catholic Cardinal, Laurian Rugambwa, was born in the city and today it houses the strikingly space age Bukoba Cathedral, but there are also impressive cathedrals, mosques and jamats here. All faiths are made welcome.

Creative culture For five centuries the Kagera region was split into nine fiercely patriarchal kingdoms that were often at war with each other. Their kings lived in elaborate palaces, one of which, Kanazi Palace – once home to King Kanazi – still stands in Bukoba and, Mary says, is a popular breakfast stop-off on Kiroyera city tours. European colonisation and the spread of Christianity ate away at the influence of the kingdoms before Tanzanian independence and President Nyerere’s drive for national unity brought about their end. The Haya people were some of the earliest inhabitants of the area and they have been linked to one of the greatest scientific breakthroughs of all time – the invention of steel, which it is believed they started forging 2,500 years ago, long before equivalent techniques were known in Europe. Mary says the Bukoba tour includes a visit to Katuruka historical site, which preserves the oldest-known iron-smelting furnace in east, central and southern Africa.

New national parks The Kagera region is home to two of Tanzania’s newest national parks.

The Burigi Chato National Park is surrounded by the Kagera River and Lake Burigi, which nourish the grassland landscape and attract good numbers of elephant, giraffe, lion, leopard and buffalo. You can extend your safari adventure by also taking in the Ibanda-Kyerwa National Park, which attracts animals like herds of buffalo, zebra, topi, eland, impala, waterbuck, reedbuck and giraffe as well as leopard to its open savannah grasslands.

JAMBO FOR DEVELOPMENT The innovative Haya people of the Kagera region are well known for valuing formal education. However, there is still a high number of vulnerable children living in the region’s rural areas that need help to fulfil their potential and dreams of a better life.

This is where non-profit organisation Jambo For Development – which has its headquarters in the region’s capital and was formerly known as Jambo Bukoba – comes in. Since 2010 it has been fostering a conducive learning environment in local schools, running training sessions for teachers so they can pass on valuable life skills such as communication, teamwork and problem solving to pupils and equip them for adult life.

These skills are put to the test at regular school sports competitions in the region called Bonanzas. The winners are rewarded with a host of enhancements for their schools, such as new classrooms and toilets, rain harvesting water tanks, drilling water wells and sanitary pads distribution to increase attendance and performance for girls.

So far the organisation, with the help of the local government and communities, has helped transform 63 schools in the region and reach more than 50,000 pupils with its work.

While the Bonanzas are competitive, the emphasis is on fun and inclusivity with girls and differently abled pupils encouraged to take part.

For more details on Jambo For Development, its projects and how you can involved as a donor or volunteer, visit jambofordevelopment.org

KIROYERA TOURS Kiroyera, which translates as “turn the dark day bright” is a family-run tour company that offers excursions and experiences across Tanzania, but which has had a transformative effect on the Kagera region where the Bukoba-based business began. Here it has involved the community in its efforts to showcase this remote but rewarding part of the country to tourists. As well as setting up a museum and beach-side leisure facility in Bukoba it aims to get the next generation interested in the region’s Haya heritage and culture with a Saturday Tourism School, mountain climbing classes and a beach kids’ club. For more information on its work and tours, visit kiroyeratours.com, email info@kiroyeratours.com or call +22 759 424 933.

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Tech

STEAM TECH

FOR KIDS

African children have a new superhero to inspire them. Super Sema, a cartoon character created by Kenyan edutainment company Kukua, repeatedly saves her Afrofuturist town through creativity and the amazing world of science and technology. Her abilities are in the reach of every child through studying STEAM (science, technology, engineering, arts and maths) subjects at school and there is plenty of tech out there to help on the journey.

A FOR ARTS

Wacom Intuos Draw

S FOR SCIENCE

Learn & Climb Dynamo Lab Science Kit Kids love science when it is fun and messy. That’s something well understood by this box of 21 lab activities, which creates all kinds of sticky, fizzing, bubbling and exploding results. It comes with everything you need to get started such as petri dishes, a measuring spoon, a funnel, citric acid, glow powder and a foaming agent. After all, who doesn’t want to simulate a volcanic eruption in the safety of their own home?

Age: Five and up Where to buy: amazon.com Price: US$ 39.99

54 / Twiga

The educational buzzword STEM has recently become STEAM with the addition of art and the acknowledgement that fostering a creative mindset is key to children’s well-rounded development. As East Africa’s growing creative community of musicians, graphic artists, photographers and videographers shows, tech and art now go hand in hand. Children can be encouraged to embrace both from an early age with devices such as graphics tablet Wacom Intuos Draw. Its small size and price makes it an ideal drawing tablet for kids to begin on, but they get a premium drawing experience. It comes with the Wacom Intuos Pen, which has excellent pressure sensitivity – the harder you press the thicker the line you create – and can be used to create many intricate effects. You need to connect the Wacom to a tablet or computer to actually see the work you are creating, but this is simple to do. A great way to encourage a budding artist.

Age: 12 and older Where to buy: estore.wacom.com Price: US$ 273

/ Tech

T FOR TECHNOLOGY Sphero SPRK+

E FOR ENGINEERING

Lego Mindstorms Robot Inventor Building Set

This curiosity set is ideal for younger engineering enthusiasts with 10 building blocks that snap together magnetically to make a robot. Each block has varying functions such as sensing, connecting and acting and it is possible to change the way the robot acts with some basic coding that is taught through the included app. The kit is not cheap and once your child gets hooked there is the potential for more expense with additional blocks available on the Modular Robotics website. However, as a way to introduce computational thinking to youngsters and make it fun, this is hard to beat.

Teaching basic robotics for children is an excellent way to build a love for engineering that will grow with them as they get older. Robotics projects increase creativity, teach children to follow directions, and the finished product gives them a sense of accomplishment and confidence.

Not only that, but with this new Lego kit they will have the choice of five cool toys to play with when the project is complete. With almost 1,000 pieces there are hours of building fun to be had here. The robots to be built range from the appropriately named Blast, who is equipped with a claw and hammer and can fire missiles to the more-arty Charlie, who prefers to play drums, and the sports-loving Tricky. All the robots are controlled through Lego’s straightforward app.

Age: Four and older Where to buy: modrobotics.com Price: US$ 249

Age: 10 and up Where to buy: lego.com Price: US$ 370

C FOR CURIOSITY Cubelets Curiosity Set

If the child or children in your life are into programming, they are going to have a ball with the Sphero SPRK+. This round robot packs in plenty of fun while introducing kids to coding. It is powered by the smart phone and tablet-compatible Sphero Edu app, which enables youngsters to learn and apply Javascript to make the Sphero perform tasks such as swimming across water, painting a picture, dancing to music or navigating your house – it’s only limited by your imagination. Log in to the app and you can also become part of its global community and share your robot’s latest achievements and share tips with other Sphero owners for real hands-on learning. If you want a break from the coding, the Sphero has its own remote control to get it moving and activate some its cool in-built features such as facial recognition.

Age: Eight and up Where to buy: sphero.com Price: US$ 129.99

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Sound and vision

Faysal’s blog

Education is the key to success. This is something our parents have taught us since our early years. Growing up in Tanzania, I have seen so many people being deprived of opportunities to make it in life if the path does not involve school. Giving such importance to education has brought both positive and negative impact to our society.

The government of Tanzania has made education available for every child in the country with schools being built in every ward. Studying is designed to lessen the challenges we will face in life. The more knowledge we gain the more opportunities that will open up to allow us to achieve better career possibilities and personal growth. Positively, it has brought down unemployment and poverty levels, but does the emphasis on formal education also bring its own restrictions?

This is my 10th column for Twiga and I want it to reflect all the opportunities in life that we get yet cannot pursue because of judgment in our society. When I started vlogging I drew a lot of criticism because it was something new. Those that supported me were in the minority. Our culture still does not appreciate that entertainment and sports, for example, can educate us the same way that school does. Being forced to become a doctor or a lawyer has killed the dreams of many talented individuals who are denied the opportunity to pursue their passions.

With the society being culturally capped, the question still remains: how do we secure a bright monetary future for the upcoming generation while giving them the freedom to choose their path in life?

56 / Twiga

FILM REVIEWS

Faysal Alao is a vlogger and tour operator from Tanzania living in Arusha. He uploads regular videos about his experiences and everyday lifestyle on his YouTube channel, ‘Lifestyle of Faysal’. You can also keep up with him on Snapchat @faysal_alao and Instagram @callmefays

BOOK REVIEWS

We need to learn that education can hinder as well as support our dreams

MUSIC REVIEWS

Mark Edwards rounds up the latest releases to stream, screen and read

SOUNDS FROM AFRICA / Rayvanny Debut albums don’t come much more ambitious than this. Four years in the making, Sounds from Africa is Mbeya-born singer, songwriter and musician Rayvanny’s love letter to his continent and across its 23 tracks draws on its diversity of music with a host of pan-African collaborations. The guest list includes Nigerian artists Zlatan Ibile and Joe Boy, South Africans Nasty C and Rowlene and Jah Prayza from Zimbabwe. Of course, Rayvanny shows love for Tanzania with track ‘Tetema’ featuring his WCB Wasafi label boss Diamond Platnumz and Vanessa Mdee adding a sugared vocal to dance track ‘Twerk’. Epic in scope and sound, this album announces the arrival of a serious talent in Rayvanny.

BHOOT POLICE / Director: Pawan Kripalani Bhoot Police is a Hindi-language horror comedy film focusing on two bickering brothers (played

by Saif Ali Khan and Arjun Kapoor) who have inherited their father’s ghostbusting business, but none of his celebrated tantric abilities. Their ineptitude is highlighted by their latest case in which they are tasked with warding off an evil spirit. While what ensues may have all the plot complexity and genuine scares of an episode of Scooby Doo, there are some good laughs to be had with Khan and Kapoor on top form and strong support from Jacqueline Fernandez and Yami Gautam.

A BLOOD CONDITION / Kayo Chingonyi The Zambian-born poet Kayo Chingonyi won the Dylan Thomas Prize among other prestigious honours for his debut collection Kamukanda in 2017.

Now he has released his second collection, A Blood Condition, which sees him returning to his Zambian roots to render his voice to the HIV epidemic that ravaged parts of the country and claimed the lives of both his parents. He moved to the UK as a six-year-old orphan and the work articulates the sense of displacement and inheritance: the people, places, cultures, and memoires that form us. This is a beautiful, measured and often heart-breaking collection made up of poems that consider change and permanence, grief and joy, and the painful ongoing process of letting go.

Arts column

TASTE EP / Nandy Nandy is having quite a 2021 and has become, arguably, the country’s biggest bongo flava singer. The hot streak of releases this year began with the Moshiborn artist’s brace of collaborations with international stars – first ‘Number One’ with Nigerian singer Joeboy and then ‘Leo Leo’ with legendary Congolese artist Koffi Olomide. Next the self-proclaimed ‘African Princess’ gifted her fans with a surprise five-track EP of gospel songs and now she has dropped a new EP, Taste, that adds r’n’b and amapiano influences into the mix. Stand-out tracks on the eclectic EP include the soulful celebration of new love ‘Yudah’ and the cheeky ‘New Couple’ in which Nandy directs a few barbs towards those Tanzanians in the public eye who jump from relationship to relationship. Who can she mean? As the EP title suggests, this is just a flavour of more music to come soon from this prolific artist.

NO TIME TO DIE / Director: Cary Joji Fukunaga Secret agent 007 James Bond has defeated many world-threatening foes over the years, but it seemed for a while that the Covid pandemic might have the beating of him. The cinematic release of this latest instalment in the blockbuster franchise has been put back three times already, but finally it is set for screens here.

The film is Daniel Craig’s last outing as the roguish spy and while he has brought a welcome muscularity and mindfulness to the role, No Time To Die suggests the future of the franchise may be about to take an interesting tangent in the future with the introduction of a black woman 007 (British actress Lashan Lynch).

REMOTE CONTROL / Nnedi Okorafor Nigerian-American Nnedi Okorafor has become a leading light of the young adult science fiction with her Binti trilogy gaining a global audience.

Remote Control is another coming-ofage tale about community and female empowerment, but it is far darker, exploring themes of solitude and despair.

It centres on a sickly, sweet girl called Fatima, whose life is changed when a mysterious green light settles over her village. She wakes with no memory of who she was, yet she can now kill with just a touch and lay villages to waste with a glance. Renamed Sankofa, she sets out on a lone journey, fearful of the destruction she can cause, yet determined to discover the cause of her dread powers. Okorafor is a great storyteller with a knack for bringing complex feelings to the page in ways that make them simultaneously unique and universal.

Exploring digital selves and virtual realities Rebecca Corey is the Director of Nafasi Arts Space in Dar es Salaam and Twiga’s arts columnist. You can visit Nafasi Art Apace online at www.nafasiartspace.org and instagram @nafasiartspace.

For many people, uploading – and perhaps even living out – significant portions of our lives and identities online has become a daily reality. The archives of our experiences are more likely to be stored “on the cloud” than in the dusty photo albums of days gone by. Virtual and augmented reality, cryptocurrencies and blockchain, are likewise becoming common parlance rather than futuristic projections for a few “techies”. So, what does this mean for art?

One major conversation involves NFTs or non-fungible tokens, which have been called the art world’s version of cryptocurrency and give art collectors the opportunity to buy not only digital artworks but also memes, tweets, and other digital “objects”. One artist recently broke records by selling the NFT of a digital artwork for the equivalent of US$ 69 million (in cryptocurrency, of course).

A residency and mentorship programme called D.A.R (Digital Artist Residency) recently took place in Dar es Salaam to explore the possibilities and challenges for digital art in Tanzania and Africa.

Four artists were involved – two from Tanzania (Arafa Hamadi, @arafa.builds and Benjamin Magory, @benjaminmagory), one from South Africa (Kgaugelo Rakgwale) and another from Ghana (Kwasi Darko, @kwasi_darko).

Nafasi Art Space is exhibiting works created during the residency from October 16 online at nafasiartspace.org and at its Mikocheni venue. In the meantime, if you’re looking to whet your appetite for digital art from Tanzania, you should also check out Nickson Jeremia @nickson_ jerome, Tuki Onana @tukionana and Ngaira Mandara @ngaira_mandara.

Work by Benjamin Magory (above left and centre) and (above right) Arafa Hamadi

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Sign up to Twiga Miles now and get 1,000 free points!

And that’s just the beginning of your savings as every subsequent flight you take will earn you more points, which can all be redeemed towards future free flights across Air Tanzania’s domestic and international network of destinations. The amount of points you will earn depends on your ticket type, fare class and destination.

As a Twiga Miles member each flight you take will also help you climb through the ranks of our tier system. With each tier upgrade, you’ll get access to even more varied and valuable benefits.

So, what are you waiting for? Sign up at www.airtanzania.co.tz now.

Member Benefits

There’s never been a better time to take advantage of Twiga Miles, Air Tanzania’s loyalty programme, with all new members who sign up before May 19 this year getting a welcome pack of 1,000 points as soon as they take their first flight.

BLUE

SILVER SELOUS

GOLD SERENGETI

Start earning points towards a free flight with Air Tanzania.

Members will earn 25% more points than Blue members on each flight they take.

Members will earn 50% more points than Blue members on each flight they take.

Free extra 5kg baggage allowance on domestic flights

Free extra 10kg baggage allowance on domestic flights

Priority check-in at Dar, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar airports

Priority check-in at Dar, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar airports

Priority membership baggage tags that ensure your bags are first on conveyor belt at your destination

Priority membership baggage tags that ensure your bags are first on conveyor belt at your destination

FAQS How do I enrol?

Visit airtanzania.co.tz or contact our call centre on 0800 110 045.

Will I get a membership card?

Cards will be issued to Silver Selous and Gold Serengeti members.

How long does it take for my points to be transferred to my account?

Your points will have been transferred

to your account no later than 72 hours following your flight.

How long do my points remain valid?

Until the end of the third calendar year following the date you earned them.

For example, points earned in June 2021 remain valid till the end of 2024.

How can I spend my points?

You can spend your points by clicking

on “Use My Points to Buy” section under the payment options tab for the tickets you are going to buy on our website at www.airtanzania.co.tz Twiga Miles is only for passengers aged 18 and above. The scheme applies to all Air Tanzania destinations. Air Tanzania reserves the right to amend the terms and conditions of the campaign. All users participating in the campaign are deemed to have read and accepted these rules.

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competition Congratulations to Kim and Liv who win a night’s stay for two at the Slipway Hotel, Dar es Salaam. Well done and thanks for flying Air Tanzania. The Twiga competition will be returning as normal in the next issue, out soon.

I

t’s hard to improve on the location of the Slipway Hotel. Nestled within one of Dar es Salaam’s most affluent and restful neighbourhoods with dropdead-gorgeous views across Msasani Bay and surrounded by one of the city’s premium retail arcades with quality shops, bars and restaurants on your doorstep. Inside, the hotel’s 61 rooms and suites – many of them with sea views – are modern and spacious and guests can also make use of the on-site gym, outdoor pool and sun deck and stylish restaurant Terrace. The Hotel Slipway is the perfect place to enjoy a taste of Dar life. How lucky then will be the winner of last issue's Twiga’s competition? Thanks to the Hotel Slipway they get to enjoy a one-night bed and breakfast stay with the guest of their choice.

Last issue's

competition

WINNER

Kids’ fun and puzzles

WORD SEARCH

SPOT THE DIFFERENCE

KUDU GIRAFFE ELEPHANT ZEBRA OSTRICH RHINOCEROS HIPPOPOTAMUS LION HARE WILDEBEEST

Find the five differences between the first and second pictures of the monkey below

DOT TO DOT Follow the dots to finish the image and see whats hiding in the picture

5 4 2

9

7

6

3

8 11

10 13

12

14

1

15 40 37

39 38

36 16 35

26 34

33

31 32

30

27 28

29

25 24 23

17 21

18

22 20

19

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Travel information

Before take-off Taking your first flight is certainly exciting, but can also become a source of stress for those who are unfamiliar with the rules, procedures and customs of flying. To prepare yourself for your first flight, it is therefore important to get information on everything you need to do before and during your journey. Here is a useful pre-departure checklist.

1

Before departing, it is important to check the airline’s website for its hand luggage rules: weight, sizes and types of objects you can take on board. For example, as regards liquids, you are advised to carry these in your hand luggage, only in transparent, reseal able, plastic containers, not exceeding 100 ml. In this section, you will find information regarding the hand luggage permitted on your flights; if you have connection flights, we advise that you also check the websites of other airlines.

2

Arriving at the airport in advance (at least two hours for domestic flights and three hours for international flights)

will enable you to check in and board your flight calmly, without anxiety and without unexpected last-minute issues.

3

Check in online, if possible.

If travelling with hand luggage alone, you can check in online and print or download your boarding pass which you must take with you directly to security checks. This will enable you to save precious time once at the airport and to go to the gate calmly. For further information, please visit the dedicated page.

4

Set your mobile to flight mode, as well as other devices connected to the internet that you are taking on board.

Cabin crew will remind you of this step before take-off. With flight mode set, you can still take photos of your unforgettable journey and you can also enjoy the in-flight entertainment system! To find out more, please visit the dedicated section.

5

If you suffer from motion sickness… you will only find out about it during your first flight! To prevent sickness from ruining your first flight on a plane, we advise you to take natural remedies, such as, for example, ginger tablets or gum to chew. Ginger is believed to have a anti-nausea properties. Otherwise, ask your doctor to prescribe you antihistamines with a sedative effect.

6

Enjoy the view! By choosing a seat near the window, you will see breath-taking landscapes and you can take photos of the exquisite white clouds you will be flying above.

Try to take a nap. Sleeping on the plane will make time pass faster and you will arrive at your destination calm and rested.

7

8

Lastly, especially during take-off and landing, the change in pressure inside the cabin may cause discomfort in your ears. To prevent this discomfort, you are advised to stay awake during these manoeuvres and to chew gum or wear earplugs.

AIR TANZANIA FLEET National carrier Air Tanzania is justifiably proud of its revamped six-strong fleet. Here we take a close-up look at our aircraft with technical data and specifications.

BOMBARDIER DASH 8-Q400 Number of aircraft available: 5 Bombardier Seat capacity: (3 Bombardier) Business Class 6, Economy 70 (1 Bombardier) Business class 10, Economy 68 Number of flight-deck crew: 2 Range: 2,063 km (1,362 Nm) Typical cruising speed: up to 360 knots (414 mph or 667 km/hr) Wingspan: 93 ft 3 in (28.4 m) Length: 107 ft 9 in (32.8 m)

64 / Twiga

AIRBUS 220-300 (CS300) Number of aircraft available: 4 Seat capacity: Business Class 12 and 120 Economy Class Number of flight-deck crew: 2 Range: 6,112 km (3,300 Nm) Typical cruising speed: 470 knots (541 mph or 871 km/hr) Thrust per engine at sea level: 23,300 lbf / 103.6 kN Wingspan: 115 ft 1 in (35.1 m) Length: 127 ft (38.7 m) Interior cabin width: 129 inches (3.28 m)

BOEING 787-8 DREAMLINER Number of aircraft available: 2 Seat capacity: Business Class 22 and 240 Economy Class Number of flight-deck crew: 2 Range: 13,621 km (7,355 Nm) Typical cruising speed: 488 knots (561 mph or 903 km/hr) Thrust per engine at sea level: 64,000 lbf / 280 kN Wingspan: 197 ft 3 in (60.12 m) Length: 186 ft 1 in (56.72 m) Interior cabin width: 18 ft 0 inch (5.49 m)

Flying between COMOROS - AFRICA TANZANIA - TANZANIA AFRICA - INDIA AFRICA - AFRICA

hours ahead of your flight time for domestic flights and three hours for international flights.

Family travel

Passports and visas A valid passport or travel document that is valid for at least six months is required to enter the United Republic of Tanzania.

Visitors will also require a valid visa upon arrival. There are a range of visas available depending on the nature and frequency of your visits, but a single entry visa can be obtained on arrival in Tanzania subject to the fulfilment of all immigration requirements. There is a US$ 50 charge for the visa.

For a full list of visas available and for countries for which special terms exist, visit the Air Tanzania website.

Check-in Check in online, if possible. If travelling with hand luggage alone, you can check in online and print or download your boarding pass, which you must take with you directly to security checks. You should check in two

Fares for infants and children As a general rule, children up to two years old are not required to have their own seat and are allowed to travel on parents’ lap.

An infant tickets costs 10 per cent of the regular fare. Depending on the destination, taxes and fees may apply. Please note that only 1 baby per adult is accepted. You can choose to buy a seat for your baby at the reduced rates for children if any children’s rate is applicable.

If your child is older than two years or turns two while you are travelling, you will have to book a separate seat for him or her and book the children fare for the entire journey. If a child travels with an accompanying adult in the same class of cabin, the child should be seated in the same seat row as the accompanying adult. Where this is not possible, the child should be seated no more than one seat row or aisle away. Reduced rates apply for children aged two to 11 on most routes, depending on the travel class. Children turning 12 years en route need to be booked as adults for the entire journey.

Expectant mothers Our priority is always your safety and that of your unborn child.

To avoid unnecessary risks to you and your baby, we recommend

Free allowance

30 kg 23 kg 2PC @ 23 kg 2PC @ 23 kg

that all expectant mothers consult a doctor before booking their ticket and inquire about their fitness to fly the length of the trip they intend to take.

Depending on the stage and circumstances of your pregnancy, you may be required to present certain medical forms before flying. For your own safety and the well-being of your child, Air Tanzania will not accept expectant mothers who are pregnant from their 34th week or beyond.

UMNR (children travelling alone) If you’re planning for your child to travel alone, we’re here to make sure they enjoy their trip and that they are well taken care of throughout their journey.

When you book our unaccompanied minor service, your child will be received at the originating airport, taken care of during transit and while on board the aircraft. He or she will be handed over to the person designated by the parents/ guardians upon arrival at the final destination.

Cost To avail the unaccompanied minor service, an adult fare needs to be purchased for the child. Please contact us to book the flight and the service.

Infant fare checked baggage allowance Infants travelling on an infant fare are allowed 10 kg as baggage allowance.

BUSINESS

Air Tanzania has a free allowance for passengers’ baggage across economy and business class. For full details and rates please see our website www.airtanzania.co.tz or contact booking enquiries 0800 110045

ECONOMY

FREE BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE

Free allowance

40 kg 30 kg 3PC @ 23 kg 3PC @ 23 kg

Child fare baggage allowance Children and infants travelling on a child fare are eligible for the same baggage allowance as adults.

Wheelchairs If you need wheelchair assistance at the airport, you must advise Air Tanzania of this at the time of booking. You can request wheelchair assistance through our Call Centre or at Air Tanzania Sales offices.

Inflight Wi-Fi On board Wi-Fi Enable Wi-Fi on your laptop, tablet or smartphone, and select AirTanzaniaWifi You will need to launch your web browser, which will display the log-in web portal. From the portal, simply select your preferred price plan.

Portable electronic devices (PEDs) You can use your e-readers, tablets and smartphones from gate to gate – including taxiing, take-off and landing – without a risk to safety.

Note that on-board Wi-Fi is only available on certain aircraft. Please follow cabin crew instructions at all times.

For Booking & Enquiries: 0800 110045 www.airtanzania.co.tz

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Air Tanzania destinations

DISCOVER

Domestic and international routes Bukoba Mwanza Geita

Arusha

Kilimanjaro

Tabora

Kigoma

Zanzibar Dodoma

Dar es Salaam

Katavi

Mbeya

Songea

For Booking & Enquiries: 0800 110045 | www.airtanzania.co.tz

66 / Twiga

UK

London

CHINA

Guangzhou Mumbai

INDIA

Bangkok

THAILAND

NIGERIA

Lagos UGANDA

Entebbe Kigali BURUNDI Bujumbura

KENYA

Nairobi

RWANDA

TANZANIA

Dar es Salaam

DRC

Lubumbashi

Comoros

ZAMBIA

Lusaka ZIMBABWE

Harare

Active routes Upcoming routes

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Air Tanzania contacts

WHERE TO CONTACT US E-COMMERCE Location: ATC House, Ohio Street.

Email: tce-commerce@airtanzania.co.tz

CONTACT CENTRE Location: ATC House, Ohio Street.

Email: contactcentre@airtanzania.co.tz

0800 110045 Toll Free (Tanzania only) Tel: +255 022 212 5221

For the latest flights, information and to book online, visit:

www.airtanzania.co.tz

Follow us on:

@AirTanzania

@airtanzania

airtanzania_atcl

Air Tanzania ATCL

AIR TANZANIA CONTACTS DAR ES SALAAM (HQ)

TABORA

KAMPALA

Location: ATC House, Ohio Street P.O Box 543 Office (JNIA) Tel: +255 222 117 500 Email: darairport.station@airtanzania.co.tz

Email: tabora.station@airtanzania.co.tz

Location: Park Royal Mall, Room 208, Buganda Road.

Email: uganda.station@airtanzania.co.tz Email: bbesalestc@airtanzania.co.tz Tel: +256 414 289 474 / +256 393 517 145

ARUSHA Location: Old Moshi Road, NSSF Mafao House Email: arusha.station@airtanzania.co.tz Tel: + 255 272 520 177/ +255 739 787 500

MBEYA

SONGEA Location: African Benedict Office Hanga- opposite TRA Songea Email: songea.station@airtanzania.co.tz Mob: +255 712 796 421

KIGOMA

Location: Mbeya Mjini Email: godfrey.Samanyi@airtanzania.co.tz Mob: 0714 800 080 / 0737 800 090

Location: Lumumba Road, opp. Mambo Leo Pharmacy Email: kigoma.station@airtanzania.co.tz Mob: +255 742 580 580

COMOROS

IRINGA

Location: Immeuble MATELEC Moroni, Grande Comores Email: com’airgsaatc@gmail.com Tel: +269 3312570 / +269 3322058

BUKOBA

Location: Asas House, Dodoma Road, opp. TCC. Email: Iringa.station@airtanzania.co.tz Mob: +255 753 574 986

ZANZIBAR

Location: Jamhuri Road, NSSF Building Email: airtanzaniasalesbukoba@gmail.com Tel: 0767351336 /0735351336

Location: Postal Building, Kijangwani Email: zanzibar.station@airtanzania.co.tz Mob: +255 785 452 585

KILIMANJARO

ZIMBABWE

Location: KIA Email: arusha.station@airtanzania.co.tz

DODOMA Location: Hatibu Road, Tofiki Street, CDTF Building Tel: + 255 262 322 272/ 0735 787 241 (mobile)/ 0683 776 744 (mobile) Email: dodoma.station@airtanzania.co.tz

MWANZA

Tel: +255 735 787 239/ +255 28 2501059 Email: mwanza.station@airtanzania.co.tz

68 / Twiga

Location: 24 Shamwari Complex, 157 Sam Nujoma Street, Ext Belgravia, Harare Email: hresalestc@airtanzania.co.tz Tel: +263 424 796 286/7 Mob: +263 773 119 462

ZAMBIA Barnetts Building, Shop 3, Hailie Selasie Avenue, Longacres, Lusaka.

Mob: +260 956 610 250 Email: support.lusaka@airtanzania.co.tz

ENTEBBE Location: Entebbe International Airport, Room no 095.

Email: uganda.station@airtanzania.co.tz Email: bbesalestc@airtanzania.co.tz Tel: +256 716 680 250

BURUNDI Location: Bujumbura-Mairie, Boulevard de la Liberté, Galerie Alexander, No 10 Email: fantasticvoyage1@gmail.com Tel: +257 610 139 48.

INDIA Location: Ajanta Travels PVT Ltd, VN Road, Mumbai.

Email: Res.bom@airtanzania.co.in Tel: +91 224 979 0108/09/ +91 98200 61232 (cargo)/ +91 98193 65286 (reservations)/ +91 740 0084680 (staff airport supervisors)

JOHANNESBURG Location: West Tower, 2nd Floor, Nelson Mandela Square, Maude Street, Sandown, Gauteng, South Africa 2146 Email: southernafrica@airlinepros.com Tel: +27 11 881 5945 Tel: +27 11 881 5945

Issue 11 / October to December 2021

YO U R F R E E A I R TA N Z A N I A M AGA ZINE

T R AV E L / TA STE / TALEN T

Twiga A I R TA N Z A N I A Issue 11

On top of the world

My Mt Everest record

Msonge Organic Family Farm Growing fruit and veg the wild way

Black rhinos are back

Rare species reintroduced at Mkomazi National Park

KIBUBU Pay for your flight in instalments See page 27 for details