Bucket-list primate trekking across the Auric Air network
Ol Doinyo Lengai
Climbing 'Mountain of God' by moonlight
The pick of Pemba Luxury stays on the 'Green Island'
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Take flight with us
Welcome to Auric Air Services Limited‚ your gateway to unparalleled aviation experiences in East Africa. With a legacy spanning over two decades‚ Auric Air Services Limited has established itself as a premier air charter and scheduled flight operator in the region.
At Auric Air Services Limited‚ we understand that time is of the essence‚ and our commitment is to provide you with the most efficient‚ reliable‚ and comfortable air travel solutions. Whether you're embarking on a thrilling safari adventure‚ exploring remote destinations‚ or conducting vital business operations‚ our fleet of state-of-the-art aircraft and expert crew are dedicated to making your journey seamless and memorable.
As a leader in aviation‚ we offer a wide range of services tailored to meet your unique needs. From charter flights that cater to your specific schedule and destinations‚ to scheduled flights that connect you to the most captivating and remote corners of East Africa‚ Auric Air provides unparalleled accessibility and flexibility.
We adhere to the highest international safety standards to ensure your well-being throughout every flight. Our fleet consists of meticulously maintained aircraft‚ and our pilots undergo rigorous training‚ combining technical expertise with a deep knowledge of the local geography and weather conditions.
So, sit back and enjoy your flight. Your adventure is just beginning. Every flight with Auric Air is an opportunity to explore‚ discover‚ and create lasting memories.
Deepesh Gupta Director of Corporate Affairs
AURIC AIR RENEWS INTERNATIONAL SAFETY CERTIFICATE
Auric Air is pleased to announce that it has successfully completed the IATA–ISSA audit, which is valid until April 2026. ISSA (IATA Safety Standard Assessment) is IATA’s internationally recognized and accepted evaluation system designed to assess the operational management and control systems of airlines operating smaller aircraft that are not eligible for the larger IOSA program.
After undergoing the IATA audit renewal this year, Auric Air Services Limited has earned its renewed ISSA certification.
This certification reflects Auric Air Services Limited's commitment to safety and compliance.
BILLIONAIRE BUSINESSMAN SIR JIM CHOOSES US
It was a pleasure having Sir Jim Ratcliffe, the co-owner of Manchester United football club, onboard our Pilatus PC-12! We are honoured to share the skies with visionaries and adventurers alike.
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film uncovers the lakes lost
Young people in Dar es Salaam, one of the fastest growing cities in the world, grow up knowing only its urban sprawl but there is a generation that lives here that remembers a different, more pastoral Dar with five pristine lakes at its heart. In her documentary A Land of Lost Lakes, local filmmaker and National Geographic Explorer Aika Kirei preserves a little-known slice of local history that was in danger of being lost forever.
of Dar
Aika Kirei, filmmaker
Tanzania’s commercial capital Dar es Salaam is one of the fastest growing cities in the world. New film A Land of Lost Lakes documents just how quickly things can change here. In interviews to camera, locals in their late teens and early 20s are asked if they have heard of city lakes such as Mwananyamala, Minyonyoni, Alimaura, Tenge and Magomeni. The question is met with blank faces and embarrassed laughter. “Are they real lakes,” one responds.
The film also features interviewees a generation or two older. The lakes are very real to them. One 55-year-old man smiles fondly as he remembers early childhood days spent swimming with his friends in the “crystal clear waters” of Lake Mwananyamala. He says he would regularly swim the length of the tearshaped lake in the Kijitonyama neighbourhood in the heart of the city. Another older man describes Lake Alimaura as a fertile paradise surrounded by mango and guava trees as well as rice and cashew farms.
Fifty years on, memories are all that remain of the five lakes that were once within Dar’s borders. One was drained for a petrol station to be built in its place while others were used as unofficial rubbish dumps that allowed sediment to build up and take away the lakes’ ability to store water. As the lakes dried up, locals began to build homes on the land. Kijitonyama is now a bustling neighbourhood with many of its tightly packed homes covering where Lake Mwananyamala once flowed.
At just 13 minutes long and in Swahili with English subtitles, A Land of Lost Lakes is a short but powerful film. Its director Aika Kirei was born in Dar in the 1980s yet admits she spent most of her life also unaware of the lakes. “In 2018 someone in a WhatsApp group I was part of shared an early geo map of the city that showed the lakes. Like most young people here I had no clue they had existed.”
Aika, a writer and filmmaker who has “always loved telling stories”, was inspired to find out more. She tried to locate the book the map came from and searched records at the University of Dar es Salaam’s geographic department. The paucity of information available only served to further convince her of the
need to document this piece of hidden history. “It’s not in the textbooks. I felt that this was information that was going to be lost forever unless I shared it,” she says.
In the following years Aika created the children’s animated series Chiku and Katope and produced Fahari Yetu: Zanzibar Saves its Sea – both award-winning projects that explored environmental issues – but the lost lakes idea remained on her mind. In 2022 she won financial backing to make the film becoming one of the National Geographic Society's 15,000 grantees. These grantees, who are called National Geographic Explorers, are global changemakers working to illuminate and protect the wonder of our world. Aika's film was specifically supported by the Society's World Freshwater Initiative, which will map global freshwater resources and launch exciting new projects in storytelling, education, and conservation.
To source the living testimonies of lake life in Dar half a century ago that provide such an evocative beginning to the film, Aika approached local government offices to track down people living in the area that were around at that time. As for footage of the lakes themselves, Aika’s camera follows a team of scientists from Muhimbili University of Health and Allied Sciences to the (modern-day) site of Lake Mwananyamala in the
centre of the city. The team point out the mandago plants that indicate the presence of a water source, but the busy bird life here is attracted by the piles of rubbish to pick through rather than pools of drinkable lake water. Beyond the marshy ground there is little to the untrained eye that would suggest a lake was ever here.
Aika’s filming of local experts was deliberate. She wanted to show the city has the scientific and intellectual capital to recognise and tackle issues such as these. “I have always loved natural history programmes. A filmmaker friend of mine said they had never seen African scientists on film before. Not many young filmmakers are doing this. I want to tell more stories like this – our stories.”
The university scientists say locals are unaware of how their waste disposal affects the availability of water in residential areas. While National Geographic’s World Water Map – created as part of the five-year Fresh Water Initiative to map the world’s water shortages – does not include Dar es Salaam among its 21 critical water scarcity hotspots, the city has experienced supply issues in recent years. Drops in water levels of the Ruvu river, Dar’s main source of water, create challenges compounded by the loss of its lakes.
“Beyond the marshy ground there is little to the untrained eye that would suggest a lake was ever here.”
Rubbish tips and marshland are all that remain today of Lake Makulumula
Bird life still gathers where the lakes used to be
Aika hopes the film will bring home the seriousness of the situation especially to children who are saddled with the consequences of environmental damage. “Young people are the primary audience as they are the future decision makers,” she says.
Aika’s work has previously proved adept at showing children they can have impact. Chiku and Katope – a show about a couple of eco-aware Tanzanian kids that question practices that harm the environment –was commissioned for a series after its pilot episode proved popular and has been broadcast across East Africa. “We have been screening it a lot in schools and it is being shared wider and wider,” she says. “After one school screening pupils starting do their own composting inspired by the show.”
Aika hopes A Land of Lost Lakes will prove just as educational and empowering. Both projects make use of animation to appeal to a young audience. “I had to recreate a lot of footage to illustrate the recollections
“Young people are the primary audience as they are the future decision makers”
of life by the lakes and how the build-up of trash affects the lake over time. I thought those visuals were the best way.
I worked with a team of young Tanzanian animators using 3D animation.”
The film is getting seen. There have been a series of showings at schools in Dar es Salaam along with public screenings while two Tanzanian broadcasters have aired the film. It can also be streamed online.
Ultimately, Aika wants the film to be a resource for schools and colleges – a testament to the lakes and a valuable lesson on why one of the fastest growing cities in the world needs to factor in environmental sustainability within its rampant expansion. Aika says: “The film will be a point of reference, a lesson we can learn to apply to other areas. What can we do to prevent this happening again?”
To stream A Land of Lost Lakes on YouTube, go to www.qrs.ly/cxg9247 or scan the code
Ape adventures
across the Auric Air network
Chimpanzees and gorillas are the two closest living relatives to humans sharing between 95 to 99% of our DNA. No wonder we are so fascinated by them. Auric Air flies its passengers to bucketlist primate adventures in Rwanda, Uganda and Tanzania. Here’s all you need to know.
Volcanoes National Park
Country: Rwanda
Auric Air destination: Kigali
Pick of the primates: 12 friendly-to-humans families of mountain gorilla, the largest living primate.
Location: One of only three habitats for mountain gorillas on the planet, the park is part of the Virunga Mountains range. The gorillas live in the bamboo-covered slopes of the park’s forest-covered volcanoes. Some of the families – such as the Amahoro and Susa – have made homes at higher altitudes between forested mountain peaks so expect the hike to be long and challenging.
Experience: Guided treks can take between two and six hours to find a gorilla group (each family has at least one dominant male silverback along with several females and youngsters.) and then you’ll spend about an hour with them observing their behaviour and taking photos. The forest cover here is not as thick as in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – the clue is in the name – so gorilla sightings are easier.
Other apes to see: You can find golden monkeys – known for their range of expressions and vocalisations – in the forests at the base of Mount Bisoke where they weave bamboo plants together to form beds to sleep on. Your gorilla trek should also provide plenty more monkey sightings such as black and white colobus, Dent’s, Hamlyn’s, red tailed, and blue monkeys.
Permits: You can purchase a gorilla trekking permit in Rwanda by booking directly with the Rwanda Development Board (RDB). Book online through the RDB website or by emailing
reservation@rwandatourism.com
You can also book through a tour operator. Permits are US$1,500 per person per day. The permit grants access to the park and a designated gorilla family.
Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park
Country: Uganda
Auric Air destination: Entebbe
Pick of the primates: 50 gorilla families, but only 21 of them are habituated and available for visitors to see.
Location: Southwestern Uganda, on the edge of the Albertine Rift. The park is considered the world’s prime habitat for mountain gorillas. The gorillas live in the park’s four tracking regions: Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga, and Nkuringo. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park covers an area of about 321 sq km‚ which includes a range of habitats‚ such as montane and lowland forests‚ bamboo forests‚ and open grasslands.
Experience: The treks can range from two to eight hours‚ depending on the location of the gorillas‚ and can be physically demanding‚ involving steep climbs and uneven terrain. During the trek‚ visitors may encounter other wildlife‚ such as forest elephants‚ duikers‚ and bushbucks. Chances of spotting wild gorillas here are very high. Trackers leave camp very early in the morning to locate a gorilla family and stay with them until they make their nest in the evening. Only then will the trackers return. Guides take tourists out already knowing the location of the gorillas. Once the gorillas are found‚ visitors are allowed one hour to observe them and take photographs‚ an experience that is both humbling and exhilarating.
Other apes to see: Bwindi is home to 11 species of primates including chimpanzees, black and white colobus monkeys, baboons and the nocturnal potto.
Permits: To visit the mountain gorillas in Bwindi‚ visitors need to get a permit from the Uganda Wildlife Authority. The prices are US$800 each for non-residents, US$700 for foreign residents and US$ 82 for East Africa citizens.
Mahale
National Park
Country: Tanzania Auric Air destination: Tanganyika/Kipili Airstrip
Pick of the primates: The park is home to between 900 and 1,000 wild chimpanzees that have been habituated to humans.
Location: The rainforest-covered Mahale Mountains rise steeply from the shores of Lake Tanganyika and provide a habitat for a wealth of wildlife (it’s the only place in the world where chimpanzees and lions co-exist). No roads reach the park. It is only accessible by aircraft or boat. This remoteness helps keep the chimpanzees relatively unaffected by humans and is one of the key reasons why the primates have thrived here.
Experience: One group of Mahale chimps – the Mimikire clan – has been habituated by researchers since 1965. Currently led by an impressive alpha male, Alofu, the M-group, as they are commonly known, has around 56 chimps. They are relaxed near people, so it’s possible to track and observe them from very close quarters. The tracking can take anywhere from one hour to a full day, depending on the difficulty of the hike. The time spent with the chimps is limited to one hour. All human
Jane Goodall and primates of East Africa in their forest homes
“Once the gorillas are found‚ visitors are allowed one hour to observe them and take photographs”
visitors on chimpanzee safaris are required to wear surgical masks for the animals’ health. The best time to see chimps is August to October, when they move down the mountains in search of food.
Other apes to see: Mahale harbours Tanzania’s densest population of primates. Yellow baboon, red colobus, blue, red-tailed and vervet monkeys are never far away.
Permits: You can arrange a chimpanzee tracking permit in Tanzania for Mahale National Park through a tour operator or directly with the relevant authorities. The cost is US$100. You must be at least 15 years old to join the trek.
Gombe Stream National Park
Country: Tanzania
Auric Air destination: Tanganyika/ Kipili Airstrip
Pick of the primates: The park is home to about 95 chimpanzees.
Location: Gombe Stream National Park is a 52 sq km park on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. It is here British primatologist Jane Goodall began her pioneering research into chimpanzee behaviour and the park now contains the Gombe Stream Research Centre that’s home to the longest-running field study of chimpanzees in the world. The chimp population here sticks to the park’s dense jungle and includes the Kasekela community, which are descendants of the group that Jane Goodall first studied
Experience: It can take three to five hours to find chimpanzees in Gombe and the search can involve trekking through steep terrain and dense forest. The best time to find chimps is July to October, when they tend to stay on the lower slopes of the escarpment that runs down to the lakeshore. Once discovered, you’ll have about an hour to observe them from a safe distance. Avoid eye contact. Chimps consider it aggressive.
Other apes to see: You may also spot baboons and the red-tailed and red colobus monkeys. The latter keep to the forest canopy as they are a prey for the chimps (among the revelations of Goodall’s studies was that chimps are omnivores not herbivores as first thought.)
Permits: A chimpanzee tracking permit for Gombe National Park costs US$100. You must be at least 15 years old to join the trek.
Why Rubondo Island is Africa’s Ark
Hidden away in the south-west corner of Lake Victoria, the remoteness of Rubondo Island makes it a natural safe haven for its reintroduced and indigenous animal populations. Here’s just some of the wildlife to look out for in Africa’s largest island national park.
FOR THREATENED ANIMALS
Zoologist, Professor Bernhard Grzimek Metzger, Jack | Wikimedia Commons | CC-BY-SA-4.0
Before 1964 major wildlife on Rubondo Island amounted to vervet monkeys swinging around the untouched equatorial forest that makes up around 80 per cent of the 237 sq km island, indigenous sitatunga antelope roaming the extensive papyrus swamps of the western shore and otters feasting on the abundant fish population of its coastal waters.
However, between the years of 1965, when Rubondo Island was identified as a game reserve and 1977 when it was declared a national park, a host of new animals were introduced. Most of them have thrived in this paradise uninhabited by humans.
It was pioneering German zoologist Bernhard Grzimek who first had a vision of Rubondo as an ark for threatened animals after he visited in 1964. Over the next decade it became his passion project and would see him introduce a menagerie of species to begin new lives in the wild.
Now, Rubondo Island, still has no permanent human inhabitants beyond the occasional ranger. However, there are a small number of camps here for visitors to explore a national park like no other. Here’s just some of the wildlife to be seen.
CHIMPANZEES BACK IN THE WILD
Grzimek returned 17 chimps to Rubondo. They were all born in the wild, but caught to be used in circuses, zoos and to serve as biomedical research. Grzimek saved them from captivity and today, the original population of 17 has grown to between more than 50 representing the only successful reintroduction of chimpanzees in the world. Getting a sighting of them in their forest habitat is not easy. Rubondo’s forest is about 10 times the size of Tanzania’s renowned chimp sanctuaries in Mahale and Gombe so if you make a sighting you are blessed indeed, but even if your trek proves chimpless there will be plenty more wildlife to enjoy.
HERDS OF FOREST ELEPHANTS
Rubondo Island has an introduced population of elephants. A boat trip around the island’s shores gives you the opportunity to see them along with hippo, crocodile, otter, monitor lizard and many water birds. Herds of elephant appear from the dense forest to drink at the island’s shores.
THE SWIMMING SITATUNGA
Rubondo is one of the best places in Africa to see the sitatunga antelope, the only amphibious antelope in the world. Its long, splayed hooves make the sitatunga clumsy and vulnerable on firm terrain, but it thrives in the island’s coastal marshes here. They are also excellent swimmers and can paddle for kilometres at a time, diving deep below the water’s surface at any sign of danger.
THRIVING BIRD LIFE
Rubondo is a dream for bird watchers. Around 300 species call the island home. There is nowhere else on the continent with more African fish eagles than here (and when you see the abundance and size of the fish in Rubondo’s waters you’ll understand why the raptor feels so at home). Other thriving species include the African grey parrot. 37 of them were rescued and released on Rubondo in 2000 after being victims of illegal trafficking. They are now everywhere on the island and love to feast on figs in the forest. Open-billed and marabou storks are commonly sighted on the shores along with cormorants, darters and white egrets.
MONSTER FISH
Sheltering nine smaller islands, Rubondo protects precious fish breeding grounds that are rich in tilapia and Nile perch. The latter is one of Africa’s biggest and most sought-after freshwater fish – specimens are landed that weigh as much as your average man – making the island a popular destination for anglers. You can cast from the shoreline or our boats and enjoy catch-and-release fishing.
TONS OF TERRAPINS
On the shores of the island, and smaller bodies of water inland, high numbers of serrated hinged terrapins are found. These terrapins lay their eggs between October and January with the hatchlings emerging between March and April.
BEAUTIFUL BUTTERFLIES
Butterflies are attracted to Rubondo’s availability of good cover, water, plants for food and plenty of places to lay their eggs. The island is home to around 70 species of butterfly some of them that can only be found here. The orange and black African monarch can be seen in lazy flight all over the island while also be on the look-out for the large emperor butterfly and the brightly patterned acrea.
FABULOUS FAUNA
One of the reasons butterflies love Rubondo is the sweet nectar to drink from the more than 40 species of colourful orchids that grow in the forest. In mid-November‚ the landscape erupts with vivid colour as wild orchid and jasmine. The blooming coincides with the arrival of migratory birds such as eagle‚ sacred ibis‚ bee-eaters‚ coucal‚ hornbill‚ sunbirds and many other others to hunt and breed in the park and remain there from December into February. It is a wonderful time to visit.
Hippos on Rubondo Island in Lake
Auric Air flies
to the Rubondo Airstrip
Climbing the by moonlight Mountain of God
Sarah Kingdom explores some of the most extreme environments of Tanzania’s Northern Safari Circuit culminating in an unforgettable night hike of active volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai.
Tanzania’s Northern Safari Circuit is probably the most popular safari spot in the country. Home to places like the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Manyara and Tarangire, this is a destination that features on many a traveller’s bucket list. But there’s more to this part of the world. This is a land of extremes. From the snows atop Mt Kilimanjaro to the caustic red waters of Lake Natron. From the dramatic landscapes of the Great Rift Valley to the bubbling lava of Ol Doinyo Lengai. From the breeding grounds of millions of flamingos to the wild, wide, uncultivated plains where the Maasai graze their cattle, sheep and goats. This is a land to explore.
Lake Natron
Just 22km northeast of the Ngorongoro Crater lies the remote and otherworldly Lake Natron. Fed by natural springs, the lake’s waters contain a rich mixture of salts and minerals known as ‘natron’ – hence the name. In the dry season the lake’s water temperatures can reach a scorching 60°C and, as the water levels drop, the minerals form a crimson crust over the surface. It’s an incredible, inhospitable and dramatic landscape. At just three metres deep, but 22km wide, Lake Natron is East Africa’s main breeding ground for 2.5 million lesser flamingos – in fact 75 per cent of the world’s population of lesser flamingos are born here, feeding on the algae,
“Always in the distance, towering over the lake is Ol Doinyo Lengai, East Africa’s only active volcano”
cyanobacteria and other salt-loving organisms that flourish in the lake’s alkaline waters. Greater flamingos and pelicans are also found here, but not in such impressive numbers. The very best time to see this birdlife is at sunset when the heat of the day is not so ferocious and the wind has begun to die down.
Ol Doinyo Lengai
Walking out across the mud flats as the sun sinks closer to the horizon, the lake is a flurry of activity. Thousands of flamingos tramp through the shallows. Heads down, bills underwater, stirring up organic matter with their feet. Swinging their heads back and forth, filter-feeding as they let the water flow through their bills. When
they tire of feeding, they march in groups, heads held high and in tight formation, like a platoon of long-legged, pink soldiers.
Always in the distance, towering over the lake is Ol Doinyo Lengai, East Africa’s only active volcano and the only active carbonatite volcano in the world. Its name means ‘Mountain of God’ in the Maasai language while climbers know it as the toughest day hike in East Africa. For us, climbing the 2,962m volcano under moonlight would prove to be an unforgettable, almost mystical experience.
Waking at 11pm we pulled on the clothes we’d left ready by the bed. We clambered into the back of the Landcruiser for the one-hour
drive to the base of Lengai to begin our moonlit climb to the top. Backpacks and head torches at the ready, the trek began. It was chilly. It was dark. It was steep. Walking in almost total silence, stopping every hour or so for a breather. Sometimes scrambling,
“We sat and watched, speechless, mesmerised by the scene”
sometimes crawling on all fours. A scorpion scuttled across the path, illuminated by the light of our head torches. A little while later a snake slithered silently into the undergrowth.
Approaching the summit
The top third of the climb had some near-vertical, rocky stretches and near the summit, cracks between the rocks emitted sulphurous steam. It was such an alien landscape we could have been on another planet. It had taken us roughly six hours to reach the steep-sided crater rim.
Sitting on the edge, we looked down into the caldera. Below us the lava bubbled, boiled and glowed in the dark, whooshing, swishing and roaring like some kind of angry ocean. We sat and watched, speechless, mesmerised by the scene, torn between sitting there, perched on the crater’s rim or starting the steep, slippery and slow descent.
We headed back down, before the sun had risen, aiming to be finished with our trek before the heat of the day kicked in. By sunrise we were already part way down. A soft, golden glow emerged on the eastern horizon, creeping across the landscape, painting everything it touched shades of lavender, pale pink and orange. The views out over the world below were spectacular.
By the halfway point the steepest section was done and we could stand upright again. It ultimately took us around three hours to retrace our steps to the waiting Landcruiser, sometimes crawling like a crab and sometimes sliding on our bums! As the sky grew brighter the views seemed endless. We could see the tips of mountains Meru and Kilimanjaro piercing through the horizon in the east. To the north we could see all the way to the far end of Lake Natron, where its northern shore borders Kenya. And in the west we looked over the escarpment, across the Sale Plains and all the way to the Gol Mountains. This is not a trek for the faint-hearted, but it’s worth it for the views and, of course, for the sense of achievement.
EXPLORE
To explore this part of the world a great place to base yourself is Lake Natron Camp, a unique eco-camp with seven luxury tents. Leonotis Adventures offer a variety of adventures in the area, including hiking, trekking and cycling. www.leonotisadventures.com
To plan your ultimate tailor-made Tanzanian travels talk to Mahlatini Luxury Travel www.mahlatini.com
A Maasai guide toasts the success of the climb
Tanzanian Hilmy makes history at Paris Paralympics
In September Hilmy Shawwal became the first Tanzanian to compete in a wheelchair event at the Paralympic Games. The athlete, teacher and motivational speaker tells Mark Edwards about his journey taking on the world’s best and how he now has his sights set on the 2028 Los Angeles Games, where he hopes more Tanzanians will join him.
When Hilmy Shawwal readied himself on the start line of his T54 wheelchair 100-metre sprint heat at the 2024 Paralympics Games, the 31,000-plus crowd in the Stade de France was roaring as one in excitement. “The atmosphere was scary,” he says. Still some voices stood out: the cries of encouragement from Hilmy’s family that had travelled to Paris to support him. “They had got seats behind the track, and I could hear all 11 of them screaming my name.”
The race itself “could have been better,” in Hilmy’s words. This was the 27-year-old’s first experience of an international event in a line-up filled with far more seasoned athletes and he admits the occasion got to him. “From the first push I was nervous. My arms felt heavy, and I just wanted to get to the end.” he says. His time of 16.08 seconds was not enough to make it through the heat and was close to half a second slower than his personal best.
There was little time to dwell on the result. “After the race fans in the crowd were hugging me, taking photos and asking for autographs,” Hilmy says. “Everyone wanted to show their love for what I had achieved.” Hilmy had become the first Tanzanian to compete in a wheelchair event at the Paralympics. In fact, at this year’s event in Paris he was the only
Tanzanian to take part at all and was country’s flag bearer at the opening ceremony – “a hugely proud moment,” he says. “I was interviewed live on television while holding the Tanzanian flag. I got to thank my mum. She was too nervous to be there in Paris so she was watching at home in the UK. She exploded with joy when she was mentioned.”
That Hilmy made it to the Paralympic Games – the second biggest sporting event in the world – is testament to his own bravery and endeavour coupled with the devoted support of family, mentors, and the Tanzanian Paralympic Committee.
He was born in London to Tanzanian parents. However, his spine and spinal cord had not developed properly in the womb – a condition called spina bifida – causing paralysis in his legs. As a young child, Hilmy began learning wheelchair skills to be mobile.
Family support
Hilmy’s mother and father were always encouraging and raised him no differently to his non-disabled younger siblings – two sisters and one brother – who were soon to join the family. “My parents brought me up to be normal. My family and friends have always treated me as someone who is not disabled,” Hilmy says.
After starting his education at a special needs institution in West London, Hilmy’s parents were able to secure him a place at a local mainstream school. It was here he discovered his love of sports. “Aged eight, I was entering races against other schools using my day wheelchair,” Hilmy says.
That competitive streak was fed with more races representing his local borough of Ealing in the London Youth Games. His family were fully in support of his
new passion. “My mum didn’t miss a single event for two years. She was always there.” There were also athletic meets organised by children’s charity Panathlon in which the top teams qualify for finals at the Copper Box Arena, built for the 2012 Summer Olympics in London. As well as the racing opportunities, Panathlon contributed to funding Hilmy’s first racing wheelchair.
Excelling in these grassroots programmes, Hilmy began to catch the eye of talent scouts. At age 16 he was invited to join the prestigious Weir Archer Academy, launched by six-time Paralympic champion David Weir and his long-term coach Jenny Archer to help unearth future Games medallists.
With fellow wheelchair athlete Weir as his mentor and Archer as his coach, Hilmy saw his training taken to a new level. Those closest to Hilmy were immensely proud of him. His extended family started calling him ‘Lightning’ – a nickname started by Hilmy’s uncle, who was also known by the similarly meteorological moniker of ‘Thunda’ ¬– because of his speed on the track.
What means the most to Hilmy about his family and friends’ support is that it was there through the good times and the bad. Despite his new stellar coaching environment, Hilmy experienced a slump in his athletic performance. “From 2016 to 2021 I didn’t record a single PB [personal best],” he says. I got to a point in
Hilmy competes in the T54 100-metre wheelchair sprint
“The period solidified a mental resolve that would pay off on the track once restrictions were lifted”
my head where I was thinking ‘Is this really worth it?’ What can I do to prove I am a top athlete? I expected more of me. I knew I could go quicker.”
The turnaround in performance would come at a surprising time: the Covid lockdown. With athletics tracks closed in the UK due to social distancing measures, Hilmy was forced to train at home. Rather than get frustrated at the restrictions, he kept up with his training and posted weekly ‘Monday Motivation’ videos on Tik Tok to help others with disabilities stuck inside.
The period solidified a mental resolve that would pay off on the track once restrictions were lifted. Literally and metaphorically, the good times had returned. “In June 2021 I got two PBs,” he says. “I brought my time down by a whole second.”
Hilmy also started sharing his positive mindset with other London youngsters. As a motivational speaker, he was invited by schools in the borough to share his story. “I tell them: ‘Don’t see your disability as an
obstacle. Don’t have regrets of a missed opportunity.’ If I gave up when the PBs weren’t coming, I wouldn’t have achieved what I have now. If I can do it, they can do it.”
Paris dream
Back at Weir Archer Academy, Hilmy’s continuing improvements on the track prompted talk of him competing in Paris in 2024. Connections were made with the Tanzanian Paralympic Committee (TPC) in the hope Hilmy could be given a wild card – allocated to athletes from countries that have not qualified through the standard qualification process. It was a long shot. Wild cards are not guaranteed. However, on July 14 – less than two months before the Games were due to start – Hilmy got a call on his mobile. “The guy from the TPC said: ‘Your dream is coming true’. I just broke down in tears. After 12 years of working hard, it was such an emotional moment.”
The Weir Archer Academy tailored a six-week training regime to get Hilmy in the shape of his life for the race. Luckily, the period coincided with the school holidays so Hilmy – who works every weekday as a tutor of children not in full-time education because of behavioural issues or other personal reasons – was able to dedicate his days to training. “I had twicea-day sessions Monday to Friday on the track, road and in the gym,” he says. “Much of my training was one-to-one with Jake Foster [the academy’s head of strength and conditioning] then there were sessions with my physio Sophie and nutritionist Finn adding to the puzzle. It was incredible training, and I felt in good shape going into Paris.”
Hilmy loved his “incredible” Paralympic experience. He stayed for 11 days in the athletes’ village where he networked and soaked up the atmosphere. The personal disappointment of his 100-metre sprint has only made him hungrier for athletic excellence. Now he has his sights on Los Angeles in 2028, where he hopes there will be more Tanzanian athletes also competing.
Making history
“Tanzania hasn’t had a wheelchair racer before. I wanted to create history. That was what was more important. I was putting the country on the map in the Paralympics. Now I have had a taste of it I want to do it again. I really hope that LA will be different. I am sure there are more Tanzania Paralympic athletes that can also do well there.”
He is extremely grateful to the TPC “for giving me the push and the dream” to make the Paris Paralympics happen for him. “They have been amazing from the start and checked up on me during the Games,” he
Franck Legros / Shutterstock.com
Hilmy at the Stade de France in Paris ahead of his history-making race
says. The Tanzanian High Commission in London also pitched in by funding Hilmy’s travel to Paris.
Representing his country is a huge source of pride for Hilmy. “Heritage means a lot to me,” he says. Although he has lived in the UK since birth, he regularly returns to his ancestral home accompanying his parents on trips to Zanzibar where they grew up and where many of their extended family still live.
Those trips are enjoyable, but also eye-opening. While Hilmy admits living with spina bifida remains a daily challenge for him, his time in Tanzania gave him heartbreaking insight into deprivations disabled people suffer beyond his comprehension.
Hilmy remembers one trip when he was 14. “I was walking in town, and I saw a disabled man crawling along the street. It stayed in my head. When I got back home, I told my dad, who had accompanied me on the trip, that I needed to speak to him. I think he thought we were going to talk about football like we usually do, but I said: ‘I want to open a charity to get wheelchairs to people who need them in Tanzania.
DISABILITY IS NOT A LIMITATION
Nipaeli Mtana is a wheelchair user living in Tanzania. She is the founder of the Nipa Foundation, which teaches art and creativity to provide opportunities for people with disabilities. She is also a jewellery designer and keyboard player with the all-girl musical group Bahati. She felt inspired by Hilmy’s Paralympics achievement and composed this message.
‘Hilmy Shawl is a powerful example of someone who has proven that disability is not a barrier to achieving great life goals. His participation in the 2024 Paralympic Games is a testament to his courage, dedication, and belief in his abilities despite physical challenges. His success shows Tanzanians that it is possible to overcome limitations imposed by society or physical conditions through hard work and determination. By creating opportunities for individuals like Hilmy, we shine a
light on the potential of people with disabilities, proving that their dreams are attainable. Hilmy’s achievement will inspire many to think beyond their perceived limitations, nurture their talents, and strive for greatness, regardless of their health conditions or the obstacles they face. This is a story of hope, triumph and paving the way for future generations. Disability is not a limitation!
What I saw is not what I see in the UK.’ My dad had tears in his eyes. He just nodded.”
The Hilmy Charity Disability Organisation was launched just over a decade ago and in that time has given out more than 5,000 wheelchairs, crutches and mattresses to those in need. Most of the donations have been made to people in Unguja, Zanzibar’s largest island, and neighbouring Pemba, where more than half the population live below the poverty line and close to 10 per cent of people have a disability.
Supporting Tanzanians
Tanzania has laws, policies, and standards that protect the rights of people with disabilities, but Hilmy has seen instances in which people were isolated and stigmatised by society. “There was one woman who had five kids. All disabled. The father had left as he was ashamed. Three of the children had died. I am trying to expand the work of the organisation. There is lots more to do. We need more backing.”
Such prejudice against disabled people is hard to fathom for Hilmy. “It confuses me why some people still think disability is a disease,” he says. For someone who knows so well the value of a support network –“Without my family and friends my Paralympic dream would never have been possible,” he says – it is very difficult for him to see others like him being held back.
Hilmy was last in Tanzania in November (2023) and hopes to go again before the end of the year with events being organised in the country to mark his achievements. He hopes the events will give him the chance to spread the word on what is possible for people with disabilities with a sporting dream. “My message to anyone with a disability is: ‘Don’t give up’,” he says. “If there is a sport you want to try, try it. It would be lovely to see more Tanzanian faces in the Paralympic team.”
'WE ARE INCREDIBLY PROUD’
Hilmy has been a part of the renowned Archer Weir Academy since 2016. The academy's founders, coach Jenny Archer and multi-Paralympic gold medallist David Weir share their praise.
Jenny Archer: "David and I are incredibly proud of Hilmy's achievement. He has shown determination and commitment to his training to ensure that he was ready for Paris."
David Weir": "It has been a pleasure to share my final Paralympics with him "
What is the best place in Pemba to stay for you?
Pemba may have nowhere near the hotel choice of its larger neighbour within the Zanzibar archipelago, Unguja, but that suits the majority of intrepid visitors to the ‘Green Island’ who relish its laidback pace of life and untouched natural beauty. Still, whether your tastes run to luxury resorts or backpacker beach lodges, there are some attractive hospitality options. Here's our pick.
(Right): Dinner on the beach at Manta Resort
(Below): The Presidential Suite, The Alyana
For an escape with the family…
Pemba Paradise
If you want to treat your family to an island escape, this welcoming three-star property offers an ideal combination of amenities and adventure. Set on a private stretch of gently shelving flawless white sandy beach in the northwest of the island with suites and rooms tucked away in tropical gardens, the resort gives young guests plenty of room to roam in safety. All eight sea view suites with a sleeping and a sitting area are suitable for the families with additional day beds available. Among the eight garden view rooms is one designed for a family-of-four with a king bed and two single beds. Food is fantastic and plentiful. Breakfast is included while the hotel and restaurant also has lunch and dinner sittings with meals prepared from freshly caught fish, shrimps, calamari, octopus, and lobster as well as fruits and vegetables from the garden or local market. The beach bar is a great place to drink in the last light of the day with a sundowner. The sunsets here are special with the beach and tranquil waters bathed in a rosy glow. Magical.
For more information, visit pembaparadise.com
For the height of luxury… Manta Resort
Head to the northern reaches of the Ngezi Forest Reserve and you’ll find the double-canopy cover gives way to the snow-white sand beaches of the Kigomasha Peninsula. This is the location of four-star the Manta Resort, which has provided visitors to the island with an exclusive escape for the past 15 years. It grabs the headlines for its underwater room – a three-storey suite anchored 250 metres off the coast with a sub-aquatic glass-fronted bedroom that gives guests a bedtime view of the iridescent marine life of the pristine coral reef. On-land accommodation options include luxuriously appointed villas with sea front views or nestled in the resort’s extravagant gardens. In-room top-class touches include a state-of-the-art silent cooling system.
Fancy a candlelit dinner on the beach, a spa treatment or to have the resident mixologist fix you a cocktail while you soak up the tranquil beauty of this off-grid paradise? It’s all part of the resort’s inclusive service. The only extra is the diving, but it is well worth the surcharge. Manta’s commitment to preserving its idyllic stretch of coastline has seen its management set up the Kwanini Marine Conversation, which prohibits fishing across a 1.3 km-stretch of coastline. The result is pristine reefs and some of the most abundant and diverse marine life in East Africa.
For more information, visit themantaresort.com
Five-star remote resort…
The Aiyana
Right at the tip of Pemba lies this haven of five-star luxury. Its 30 secluded beachfront villas give guests panoramic views of the ocean, and each boasts exquisite interiors that replicate the sense of space and escapism of the location. It was built by Indian architect Ashok Sungkur, who fell in love with Pemba and its people. His design vision fused Hindu and Zanzibar design, with a pure white colour palette and ornate wooden doors carved by a local artist. All of the villas face the sea and feature soaring ceilings and outdoor showers. Top of the tree is the Royal Villa, which is set on an ocean-view clifftop with its own pool and private stretch of beach. The resort is set in a huge garden home to over 100,000 exotic plants and as well as the sapphire waters of the Indian Ocean, swimming options include a marvellous infinity pool. The romanticism of the remote location makes The Aiyana popular with couples looking to get lost in one another. You can book a couple’s treatment at the Rock Spa, which lies on one of three tiny islands just off the coast. For honeymooners, there is the option of private beach meals under the stars. The food here is a real highlight with a daily changing menu that makes full use of the bounty of the catch of the day from local fishermen.
For more information, visit theaiyana.com
For a barefoot budget break…
Lala Lodge
This cute lodge is an excellent budget option on Pemba with its affordability impressive given its priceless location. Its eight en-suite rooms are just footsteps from the beach at Mkoani on the island’s south coast. The premium views are best taken in from the first-floor thatched terrace, which acts an attractive communal area for guests with tea and coffee on tap and a library of books to browse. Get up early to see the local fishermen return on boats laden with the night’s catch with some of the choicest fish and octopus bought by the lodge’s owner before they get beyond the beach to become the main ingredients for the justifiably renowned evening meals here. The lodge is at the heart of a bustling beachside community with schools, markets and shops among the local life on your doorstep. A stay at Lala Lodge gives you a taste of the real Pemba.
For more information, visit airbnb.com
For a boutique hotel on the beach…
Fundu Lagoon
Mangrove forest stretches across the hills of Wambaa in the southwest of Pemba, but the dense foliage breaks on a beautiful beach where Fundu Lagoon is to be found. The resort is so remote it can only be reached by boat and guests will feel they are in their own private paradise on arrival. There are 12
private hillside and beachfront suites each with a stylish bedroom, open-plan living area, a spacious outside deck area and a plunge pool. There is also a sunset-facing jetty bar, a spa, an infinity pool, five-star dive facilities and a spacious open-sided restaurant serving a wide range of delicious cuisine. The Pemba Marine Reserve across from Fundu has pristine corals and masses of fish for divers. The resort is also ideally located for a boat trip to the tiny Misali Island, with crystal-clear waters revealing coral reefs to snorkel.
For more information, visit fundulagoon.com
24 hours Iringa in
Perched on a cliff overlooking the Ruaha River Valley in the Southern Highlands, Iringa is a picturesque and historic town. Providing an insider’s guide on how to make your most of a short stay is Ben Ray and Liz Deleyser, from the award-winning Neema Crafts Centre, which, with its workshop, restaurant and guest house, has become an integral part of the Iringa community.
A giraffe (above) and below a Baobab tree (below) in Ruaha National Park, a twohour drive from Iringa
Morning
If you’ve just flown in to Nduli airport, your day should start with a full breakfast and some locally grown coffee at the famous Neema Crafts Café, serving from 7.30am until 6.30pm. Everyone passes through here and as the town’s social hub it is the place to find out about the latest events. The café staff here are all deaf and so you will be greeted with a friendly smile and asked to write down your order from the menu which includes delicious cakes, smoothies and local and international cuisine. You can also try out your Tanzanian sign language with the ever-cheery waiters.
After breakfast, you could ask for a free guided tour of the workshops at the centre where people with various disabilities create beautiful products that are available to buy in the crafts shop. There are seven workshop areas in all, including weaving, tailoring, carpentry and screen printing.
Just over the road from Neema Crafts is the Iringa Boma Museum. It is a beautiful stone building dating back to the German Colonial period and was originally the first hospital in Iringa.
During British rule it became the District Office – the Government offices for the area, headed by the District Commissioner. It remained as the District Office after Independence until a few years ago when the District Offices were moved to a new location and the building was renovated with funds from the EU and opened as a museum specialising in the history of the Iringa area.
A walk through the rooms is rewarded by glimpses into the past, particularly the story of Chief Mkwawa, the Chief of the Wahehe tribe, who is famous for being the man who defied the German colonial powers advancing into his territory. One of his most famous victories took place at at Lugalo some 20 kms from Iringa on the road to Dar es Salaam. Here he ambushed a German force marching from the coast. There is a memorial to the German soldiers killed at Lugalo.
Inside the museum you’ll also finding a shop selling baskets made by women from the Vikapu Bomba initiative, which seeks to preserve Iringa’s weaving traditions. You’ll find a variety of beautiful baskets – handwoven from milulu, a reed-like grass that grows locally.
Right in front of the museum is Uhuru Park, which is now home to the Maasai Market, a collection of mabanzi kiosks selling traditional Maasai carvings, jewellery and other traditional gifts. It is well worth a visit. If there’s time before lunch, continue your walk through the park and out towards the vibrant covered market. Here you’ll discover the great range of locally grown vegetables that Iringa is famous for.
Afternoon
When thoughts turn to lunch, Iringa boasts a range of buffet style fast-food restaurants just a short bajaj ride from the market centred around the clock tower roundabout. There’s the aptly named Clock Tower Café, Hasty Tasty, the Koffee Shop and (for the vegans) RLabs Café. Whilst you’re in the area, check out the delights on offer at the new Italian Bakery, which sells a range of fresh pasta, bread and pastries. If you have children with you, they are sure to enjoy a ‘Mr Whippy’-style soft-serve ice cream at Sweet Treats restaurant.
Further from the town centre but easily accessible if you have your own transport or are happy to hop on a bajaj is Sai Villa, a lovely hotel with views over the escarpment down to the Little Ruaha River, which has an excellent restaurant.
With the afternoon to explore further, you could drive out or hire transport to take you to Kalenga village 12 kms from town towards Ruaha National Park. The village was the original headquarters of Chief Mkwawa and at one time was fortified by a four metre-high stone wall that ran 5km around the village. However, in 1894 the wall was destroyed by the Germans in their fight against the Wahehe.
Chief Mkwawa was eventually defeated and his skull is housed in a mausoleum in the village, which is open to visitors.
An alternative destination could be a drive out to the Isimila Gorge and Stone Age site, about 16 kms from the bridge over the Little Ruaha on the Mbeya road. The site was once the bed of a lake, and very many Stone age tools, bones and skeletons of prehistoric animals have been found there. There is a small museum and picnic site. An interesting addition to one’s visit is a walk through the nearby gorge, where eroded cliffs and columns of earth tower overhead. It’s like a miniature Grand Canyon. Allow about an hour for the walk.
Rather closer to town and along the Dodoma Road to the north, is the recently discovered examples of pre-historic rock art. Take the road towards the airport, then turn off not far after the small dam at Kihesa Kilolo on a road that leads to the village of Igeleke. A couple of kilometres along this road will bring you to a huge rock overhang on which there are drawings of animals believed to have been made 5000 years ago. The area around the rock has been fenced off. To gain access, call the mobile number displayed on the fence. A small charge is made to open up the site.
Evening
After all the activities of the day where better to spend the evening than Sunset Lodge? The charming hotel is situated in the Gangilonga area of the town, not far from the looming Gangilonga Rock – which means ‘talking rock’ in Kihehe, the local language, and is where Chief Mkwawa is said to have meditated and heard of the German’s attack plans. Sunset Lodge makes the most of its views with a terrace offering views that are especially magical at sunset. There is a bar and restaurant. On some evenings buffet meals are served, otherwise there is an à la carte menu.
Alternatively, a 10-minute drive from the centre of town will get you to the very popular Italian restaurant, Mama Iringa. A quiet, romantic venue, the restaurant is built round a grassy courtyard and serves delicious pizzas and pasta dishes with plenty of fine Italian and other wines and drinks to accompany your meal.
We hope we see you in Iringa soon. 24 hours is barely enough time to get started in Iringa. You’ll find a friendly climate, hassle-free marketplace and Ruaha National Park is just a short drive down the road. Many visitors to Iringa end up staying much longer than they originally anticipated, so beware!
(Below left): Earth formations in the gorge, Iringa (Below right): The town of Iringa (Bottom): Handmade baskets from the Vikapu Bomba initiative
Tanzanian Fashion Festival
With models strutting along a poolside catwalk and some of the best local designers showcasing their latest work, this year’s Tanzanian Fashion Festival was a night to remember. Sal Arsene was poolside to speak to some of the talent involved.
The Tanzanian Fashion Festival is a highlight of the annual fashion calendar in East Africa. Launched seven years ago by fashion guru and television personality Deogratius Kithama, the show has continued to grow in popularity and renown.
This year’s event took place on September 28 at a packed-out Hotel Slipway in Dar es Salaam. VIP guests filled the plush white sofas positioned around the hotel’s pool while more fashions fans stood shoulder to shoulder to enjoy the show. The stage was impressive. Giant high-definition screens displayed the event logo and sponsor Smirnoff Vodka while most remarkable was the runway that crossed the sparkling blue waters of the pool. Unlike most indoor runway shows, the beach side location and swaying palm trees gave the feel of a unique tropical fashion event in the setting sun. It was easy to see why this magical experience has garnered such a large following.
The event was hosted by fashion influencer and presenter Bhoke Egina and there were live performances by local musical talent. DJs kept the music pumping from massive sound systems. The excitement in the audience was palpable with cheers and applause for each designer’s collection.
Local designers
Among the local designers on show was Asili By Naliaka. The new collection she showcased at the event represented a change in direction. “I’m designing for men also now,” she told me. “There was a huge men’s market I was missing out from. A lot of designers find it hard to style men because men are believed to be minimalists. I love a challenge and decided my brand will also tell men’s stories.”
Standout accessories from the show included a range of Swarovski jewellery for women. This was then paired with sister company Time Zone with male models sporting some very flash watches.
Host Bhoke Egina
“Tanzanian Fashion Festival is an important show for me to be in. It’s seen by many people, gets excellent social media exposure.”
The event featured a welcome diversity of models. While there were the standard slender and long-legged women and beefcake men, some of the models had a more singular look.
Among the models, Dev Mawji, a Tanzanian of Indian heritage, stood out. When I spoke with him I found a very articulate young man. He told me: “I studied to get my private pilot’s license when I was nineteen and afterwards got into construction. A friend told me I had the looks to be a model. I was told I’d have to lose weight. After months at the gym I reached my goal.” I asked if he had done any other modelling work since the weight loss. “I was featured in major advertising campaigns for beachwear and sportswear, but this was my first time to walk on a runway. I was very nervous!”
Meeting the models
I agreed that it is highly unusual to see Indian models on the Tanzanian runway. But Dev explained: “I’m happy to be an ambassador to represent my ethnicity. And I’m unusually tall for an Indian man, which helps on the runway. I may be breaking stereotypes for now and will continue pursuing modelling. But I’m under no illusion that modelling will pay the rent. That’s why I’m in the construction business”.
Martin Chaz, a veteran of fashion shows and a favourite among local designers, also stressed the need to have other revenue streams. “I’m also an actor. I’ve been in many Tanzanian soap operas and movies. That exposure helps me extend my brand and support my livelihood. Tanzanian Fashion Festival is an important show for me to be in. It’s seen by many people, gets
Emerging East African fashion talent on the catwalk
“I missed Tanzania. People here are warm and welcome you all the time. Life is easier here… less complicated”
excellent social media exposure and has many top designers. But my acting career is also important”.
Few Tanzanian models get the opportunity to travel outside the country to pursue a career. Farida Kanda – known as ‘Wakamda’ – is well known on the local runway, appearing in every major show of this year. She was fortunate enough to sign with a manager and agency. Her agency paid for a trip to South Africa to test the waters. But she found the lifestyle very expensive and after failing to get work she returned home to Tanzania. She explained: “I missed Tanzania. People here are warm and welcome you all the time.
Life is easier here… less complicated. You meet someone on the street and they talk and laugh with you. I didn’t feel that same camaraderie in South Africa. But I was so lucky to go and would like to go back”.
It was impressive that such a high-profile entertainment event came off so smoothly considering all the moving parts involved –the squadrons of people involved and the technical issues that had to be synchronised to the minute. Credit must go to Deogratius who orchestrated this major event that featured over 30 models and 24 designers. This year’s Tanzanian Fashion Festival was an impressive achievement.
Model Dev Mawji wearing Victoria Martin Zanzibar designer Waiz
10 reasons to visit Lake Tanganyika
Lake Tanganyika, the longest and deepest freshwater lake in Africa, lies along Tanzania’s western border. Auric Air flies charters and groups to this remote and rewarding destination. Here are 10 reasons this untouched beauty should be your next Tanzanian adventure.
SPECTACULAR SCENERY
The Great Rift Valley formed Lake Tanganyika. Massive tectonic fissures dating back around 13 million years were responsible for the lake’s depth – it is the second deepest lake in the world at 1,470 meters – and steep shoreline. The results are a dramatic and beautiful backdrop with escarpments plunging hundreds of metres into the lake and densely forested ranges such as the Mahale Mountains National Park dominating the skyline. Everywhere you turn is a feast for the eyes.
PRIMATE EXPERIENCES
The Mahale Mountains and the Gombe Stream National Parks are located along the eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika and are home to approximately 1,000 chimpanzees. Guided treks in these rainforest reserves can be arranged all year, but during the dry season, from August to October, the forest paths are drier and less slippery, and the chimps are usually closer to the shore.
KAYAKING AND CANOEING
One of the most exciting ways to get to see the Mahale chimps in their natural habitat is by kayaking on Lake Tanganyika. Guided multi-day trips that include overnight camping on the lake shores are a real adventure discovering secluded bays, sandy beaches, and hidden coves. You’ll head north from Korongwe to Kalagunga Bay and the park’s borders before setting off chimp tracking on foot with a ranger.
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UNFORGETTABLE SUNSETS
Sunsets here are special. The mountainous landscape and bobbing fishing boats are silhouetted while the lake’s deep waters glow gold. Soak up the experience with a sunset cruise on a dhow for the full romantic experience.
DIVERSE WILDLIFE
As well as the chimpanzees, the pristine forest around Lake Tanganyika is home to other primates such as the rare red and Angola colobuses, and the red and blue-tailed monkeys who swing from tree to tree. Other wildlife includes antelope species: puku, duiker and bushbuck plus warthogs and zebra. While there are large sections of the lake’s inviting, clear waters that are safe to swim and snorkel in, the northern shores attract crocodiles – including a massive, man-eating specimen who has been given the name ‘Gustave’ – so take advice from your guides.
UNIQUE MARINE LIFE
Lake Tanganyika is home to some of the planet’s most extraordinary aquatic creatures. All but two of the 208 species of cichlid fish that live in its waters can be found nowhere else in the world. The colourful cichlids are charming to observe for their prettiness and their protective parenting. The female yellow sand cichlid guards its young in her mouth, only letting them out to feed. The caution is understandable. Among the 150 species of other fish in the lake is the cuckoo catfish which takes spawning cichlids into its own mouth and mingles them with its own eggs. The eggs of the catfish hatch much sooner, and the new fry then feed on the young cichlids in the host’s mouth. It’s not the cichlids’ only predator. Humans are also a threat. Cichlids’ vibrant colours and patterns make them popular aquarium fish and the rare Lake Tanganyika varieties command a high price. The demand is depleting the lake’s cichlid numbers and threatening their future. Diving or snorkelling to view them in their natural habitat is a far more sustainable practice.
TRAVEL ON THE MV LIEMBA
Close to half of Lake Tanganyika is situated within Tanzania with the rest divided up between DR Congo, Burundi and Zambia. One of the most interesting ways to travel between the countries is on the MV Liemba – a former German warship reinvented as a passenger and cargo ferry. Its five-day, 572 km
Sunsets over Lake Tanganyika are special
“Soak up the experience with a sunset cruise on a dhow for the full romantic experience”
journey between Kigoma in Tanzania and Mpulungu in Zambia includes many stops in between. The Liemba – its name is the Swahili for Lake Tanganyika – has a storied history. It was built in Germany in 1913 then dismantled and shipped to Kigoma, then part of German East Africa, in 5,000 wooden crates to be reassembled. It has been recovered from two sinkings –first a scuttling by the Germans as Allied forces looked set to take Kigoma towards the end of the First World War and then during a storm in 1920. Its life as a ferry has thankfully been less calamitous.
BEAUTIFUL BEACHES
The Tanzanian east shore of Lake Tanganyika is dotted with beautiful beaches fringed with mango trees where yours will likely be the first footsteps in the white sand. For a longer break, Jacobsen beach and Hilltop beach in Kigoma have guest houses and campsites.
ESCAPE THE CROWDS
Lake Tanganyika is one of Tanzania’s hidden gems. Visitors here will feel like they are on a voyage of discovery. The absence of crowds of tourists allows for a more mindful, slow experience to soak in the natural splendour here.
RICH CULTURE
The cultures and traditions of the people who live here are deeply tied to the lake, which provides the Tongwe and Bemde tribes originally came from eastern Congo and crossed over Lake Tanganyika into Tanzania. They have fought efforts to assimilate them into urban life, choosing to stay in remote communities around the lake such as Ntakata Forest. They are farmers (mostly rice) and also gather berries, plants and honey. Visiting their villages will reveal the reverence the Tongwe have for their natural surroundings. The lakes and forests are infused with a spiritual energy that the tribe’s witch doctors attempt to commune with.
Yury Birukov / Shutterstock.com
It takes two to Tanga
If you are looking for the ideal getaway to spend some quality time with your significant other, then consider Tanga. This off-the-beaten-track destination in northeast Tanzania offers footstep-free white sand beaches, soaring mountains, pristine marine parks and towns steeped in Swahili traditions. Here are some suggestions for the perfect romantic escape.
“The coastline from Tanga City to Pangani further south is full of unspoiled white stretches of sandy beach”
Wild beach getaways
Beach breaks don’t come much more romantic than in the Tanga region. The coastline from Tanga City to Pangani further south is full of unspoiled white stretches of sandy beach that shelve gently into turquoise waters for perfect swimming conditions. There are rustic resorts at Peponi, Sange and Ushonge beaches offering beachside banda accommodation shaded among the palm trees. These resorts are among Tanzania’s best-kept secrets so you may find yourself in your own private paradise. As the day ends there are opportunities to ratchet up the romance even further with a sunset trip on a traditional Swahili dhow or ngalawa sailing boat.
Island adventures
The Tanga region’s coastline is dotted with sand islands with some of the country’s most pristine coral reefs built around them. Most hotels around Pangani will be only too happy to organise a boat trip – with picnic lunch included – for you and your partner out to Maziwe Marine Reserve Park, a tiny sand island that only shows itself at low tide. It’s a beautiful spot for sunbathing and snorkelling with a surrounding reef teeming with over 350 fish species and the island itself offering fantastic bird-watching opportunities.
Magoroto Lake
There are plenty of opportunities for romantic forest walks and lakeside lazing at this lush forest estate around 40 km distance from Tanga. Opened at the end of the 19th century, it was one of the first German-owned plantations in East Africa and has over time grown rubber, palm oil, coffee and tea, but now it simply showcases its beautiful 1,500-acre of rain forest and rare plants in the East Usambara Mountains. There is a campsite here and campers can explore a host of hiking trails through the forest and then cool off from their exertions with a swim in the beautiful freshwater lake.
Hot springs
It is definitely at the wild and woolly end of a romantic spa break, but a trip to the Galanos Sulphur Hot Springs is ideal for any adventurous couple. Locals have been bathing in these natural springs – located about eight km outside Tanga city – for
“It’s a beautiful spot for sunbathing and snorkelling with a surrounding reef teeming with over 350 fish species”
many years and believe the water has healing properties that can cure ailments such as arthritis and skin conditions. It may be a great bonding session for you and your partner, but it is unlikely you’ll want to get too close to each other until you’ve both had a shower with plenty of scented soap as the spring’s sulphur content makes a far from ideal date night perfume.
Pizzeria d’Amore
When putting together a feature on romantic spots in Tanga, we couldn’t ignore a restaurant with a name like Pizzeria d’Amore. This popular restaurant and bar enjoys a breezy coastal location with views across Tanga Bay. The menu is made up of Italianstyle pasta and pizza along with chicken, beef and seafood dishes cooked on the grill. Set in lush, palm tree-filled garden and with an attractive upstairs dining terrace, this is a charming place for an intimate meal-for-two.
Beautiful beach house
How’s this for a romantic escape? A beautiful cottage snuggled amid towering baobabs and with its own manicured lawn that rolls down to the
beach. This paradise is all yours if you rent Tanga Beach House. The air-conditioned property has classic four-poster Swahili beds, a living room and a fully equipped kitchen. It is located just four km south of the city and there are options to hire bikes or a car to get around, but you will likely feel little inclination to leave. Its pretty shaded verandah full of sofas to sink in and with views out across the ocean to Yambe Island is the perfect spot for some loved-up lounging. For more information, search Tanga Beach House on booking.com
(Right): The fresh water Magoroto Lake (Below): The Amani forest, Tanga
Escape the crowds and enjoy pristine white sand beaches along Tanzania's northern coast Uskarp | Shutterstock.com
Your gateway to East Africa
Our fleet
With their short take-off and landing capabilities‚ the 20-strong Auric Air fleet opens up a world of possibilities for reaching destinations that are inaccessible to larger aircraft. Here’s a closer look at our built-for-adventure fleet.
Cessna Grand Caravan C208B EX
NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT IN FLEET: 13
MAXIMUM RANGE: 912 NM
MAXIMUM CRUISE SPEED: 185 KTAS
MAX OCCUPANTS: 10 TO 14
Cessna
Grand Caravan C208B
NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT IN FLEET: 4
MAXIMUM RANGE: 1,070 NM
MAXIMUM CRUISE SPEED: 186 KTAS
MAX OCCUPANTS: 13 WITH ONE PILOT OR 12 WITH TWO PILOTS
ONBOARD EXPERIENCE:
A fleet which is among the youngest of Caravan fleets in this region. This type of all-weather aircraft has been chosen to meet the specific requirements of operating into bush airstrips and more remote landing areas in East Africa.
De Havilland Canada Dash 8
NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT IN FLEET: 2
MAXIMUM RANGE: 1,148 NM
MAXIMUM CRUISE SPEED: 270 KNOTS
MAX OCCUPANTS: 39
ONBOARD EXPERIENCE:
Step aboard our Dash 8 aircraft and experience a new level of comfort. The spacious cabin design‚ plush seating‚ and ample legroom guarantee a relaxing and enjoyable flight. Whether you're embarking on a short-haul journey or exploring remote destinations‚ the Dash 8s quiet operation and smooth flying experience will exceed your expectations.
Pilatus PC-12
NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT IN FLEET: 1
MAXIMUM RANGE: 1,137 NM
MAXIMUM CRUISE SPEED: 280 KNOTS
MAX PASSENGERS: 9 (ONE PILOT), 8 (TWO PILOTS) SIX EXECUTIVE SEATS
ONBOARD EXPERIENCE:
The latest addition to the Auric Air fleet has a powerful PT67A-67P engine renowned for its performance, quiet running and high maximum cruise speed. It also burns up 65 per cent less fuel than comparable jets. Used primarily for private charters, its spacious interior includes executive seats featuring full recline and plenty of seated headroom. The PC-12 has gained a reputation for versatility, performance, reliability and operational flexibility.
Safety and maintenance
Our entire fleet is meticulously maintained by Hawk Aviation Ltd‚ a reputable organisation head-quartered at Wilson Airport, Nairobi. With approvals from the Kenya Civil Aviation Authority‚ the Tanzania Civil Aviation Authority‚ and the Uganda Civil Aviation Authority‚ Hawk Aviation ensures the highest
standards of safety and reliability. All Hawk Aviation engineers in charge of maintaining the aircraft are appropriately licensed having attended approved aircraft type-rating courses with considerable practical experience ensuring all aircraft are looked after by the best of personnel.
Our destinations
Our 15-strong network of destinations connects with some of the most remote and unforgettable attractions across Tanzania and beyond. Here’s where we fly.
Dar es Salaam
What began as a humble fishing village is now the biggest and busiest city in Tanzania. Dar es Salaam is where you can experience the fusion of the Swahili culture and modern life. The culturally diverse city has a vibrant community with thriving food, music and art scenes. Here you can get a hit of city life and a toes-in-the-sand slice of the beach all in one.
Entebbe
The Ugandan city on the shores of Lake Victoria is the gateway to a host of primate adventures such as mountain gorilla trekking in Bwindi National Park and boat rides to Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, which protects orphaned chimps
Iringa
Time spent in this tranquil town in the southern highlands of Tanzania reveals a rich historical background – battles were fought here during German colonial times and the world wars – as well as insight into traditional African culture. It can also be the base for safari adventures with Ruaha National Park close by.
Kigali
More gorilla adventures can be pursued in Rwanda. The country’s capital, Rwanda, is one of Africa’s most progressive cities as well as being the launch pad for trips to Volcanoes National Park where wild gorillas live among the high forest of the Virunga Mountains – a dramatic backdrop for the trekking experience.
Lake Manyara
The beautiful, bijou Lake Manyara National Park is dominated by its titular soda lake that takes up almost two thirds of the park during the wet seasons and attracts vast flocks of flamingo, pelican and more than 130 more species of birds. It comprises a diverse range of habitats with herds of elephant, giraffe, baboons and impala roaming the grass and woodland while its forests contain all manner of monkeys as well as tree-climbing lions.
Lake Tanganyika
A trip to Tanzania’s deepest lake opens up the country’s remote west. Here you can dive or snorkel to explore the lake’s unique marine life or take longer
canoe and trekking adventures into the Mahali Mountains, renowned for its wild chimpanzees.
Mafia Island
The waters surrounding the Mafia archipelago are protected so its pristine reefs teem with marine life and offer some of the best diving experiences in East Africa. Giants of the sea such as whale sharks and humpback whales are also regulars here.
Masai Mara
This protected reserve in southern Kenya is one of the best places in the world to observe animals in the wild. Its sprawling plains are home to the Big Five‚ there are hippos and crocodiles in the rivers‚ and more than 500 species of birds. The reserve is particularly famous for its big cats—lions‚ leopards‚ and cheetahs. While the wildlife viewing at almost any time of the year is superb‚ the Masai Mara is best visited during the months of the Great Migration‚ when millions of zebra‚ wildebeest‚ and gazelle make their way
Lake Tanganyika
Rwanda
Mafia Island
north into the park from the Serengeti‚ crossing the Mara River in search of fresh grazing.
Nyerere National Park
Nyerere National Park is Tanzania’s newest and now largest national park, yet tucked away in the country’s southern wilderness it is something of a hidden gem. Its rivers and lakes are the lifeblood of the park that hosts some fabulous game‚ including elephants‚ wild dogs‚ buffalo‚ hippo‚ crocodiles‚ and fantastic prides of lions.
Pemba
Pemba is the second-largest island of the Zanzibar archipelago and provides a
Your gateway to East Africa
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lush, lowkey alternative to its larger neighbour, Unguja. Nicknamed ‘The Green Island’, Pemba is renowned for its fertile soil with its clove and vanilla plantations securing it global trading renown. Ringed with pristine beaches and reefs and with a forested interior that is home to endemic birds and mammals, Pemba is a haven for nature lovers.
Ruaha National Park
This massive national park is ideal if you want to escape the crowds. Here you can enjoy outstanding levels of wildlife – some of the country’s largest prides of lions and herds of elephants call Ruaha home – with almost no other vehicles around.
Rubondo Island
This island in the southwest corner of Lake Victoria has national park status with colobus monkeys, elephants, giraffes, hippos and crocodiles enjoying its sanctuary. As well as its animal adventures, the island is a true wild getaway with deserted beaches and virgin forest to explore.
Serengeti
With access to the hot-spots of the Great Migration and some of the largest concentrations of African wildlife –including more wild lions than anywhere else in the world, the Serengeti takes safaris to another level. The park welcomes almost a hundred thousand tourists every year.
Tanga
In colonial times, this port city in northern Tanzania headed East Africa’s trade links with the world. Now it has a more sleepy, laidback appeal, offering charming insights into the Swahili lifestyle. It also provides access to the East Usambara Mountains and the beaches of Pangani.
Zanzibar Island
Zanzibar’s main island, Unguja, has become one of Africa’s most popular tourist attractions. Resorts pepper its spectacular beaches while its historic centre, Stone Town, is a living museum of its trading heyday as well as vibrant proof of the cosmopolitan Swahili culture with its exciting food, music and arts scenes.
Serengeti
TANZANIA
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Lake Tanganyika Kipili Airstrip
Ma a Island
Serengeti National Park
Masai Mara
Rubondo
Lake Victoria
Lake Tanganyika
Kigali
Ruaha National Park
Pemba
Iringa
Tanga
Zanzibar
Lake Manyara National Park Nyerere National Park (Selous Game Reserve)
Salaam
Passenger information
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Everything you need to know to get your journey with us off to a smooth start.
Baggage
Baggage allowance for each passenger is 20kg (inclusive of hand baggage‚ cameras‚ filming equipment and any other personal item including loose clothing). Hard suitcases are allowed, but the dimension of individual items of luggage should not exceed dimension of 90cm in length, 65cm in width and 35cm in depth.
If passengers anticipate they will have excess baggage‚ excess baggage is bookable in advance in slabs of 10kgs. The excess baggage cost is between US$ 30 and US$ 60 depending on destination.
A maximum of four slabs (40kgs) additional luggage can be booked per person. For more than 40kgs‚ a freight seat at child fare is to be booked‚ which will permit a carriage of an extra 75kgs
There is a complimentary secure store at our Dar es Salaam airport office. Please enquire in advance.
Bookings
You can make payment online by credit card or mobile money at the time of making your booking. Alternatively‚ email reservations@auricair.com for other payment options such as credit card payment links or bank transfer options.
Children aged between two and 11 years (inclusive) are charged 75 per cent of the applicable adult fare. Infants under two years of age are not charged providing they are not occupying a seat. Infants are not entitled to baggage allowance.
Missed flights
No-show passengers will be required to book and pay for new tickets. If prior
notification is received by up to 24 hours before the flight‚ Auric Air can transfer your booking‚ at a cost of 50 per cent of your ticket basic cost‚ to the next available flight but has no responsibility whatsoever for any related extra costs. If seats are not available‚ no refunds will be made. You are advised to ensure that your travel insurance covers such situations. Details of any amendment or a cancellation must be sent by email to reservations@auricair.com
Check-in times
The latest Check-in time for all passengers is strictly 60 minutes before flight time. Auric Air reserves the right to depart up to 15 minutes ahead of the scheduled departure time if passengers are not present at the place of departure by that time. Auric Air has no responsibility for direct or indirect costs resulting from passengers missing a flight due to non-compliance‚ for whatever reason‚ with the above check-in times.
Auric Air operates from Terminal 1 at Julius Nyerere International Airport in Dar es Salaam.
Flying when pregnant
A woman with an uncomplicated pregnancy and clearance from their doctor can board flights up to the end of the 30th week of pregnancy. A doctor’s certificate or clinical card must be provided and Part 1 of our MEDI form must be completed by the passenger. They then have to be seated on the last single seat near to the emergency door.
