Flightlink, Zebra Stripes, issue 3

IN THIS ISSUE

The living history of Zanzibar’s Stone Town Mwanza: the gateway to lake adventures and the Serengeti

Eco adventures in the Ikona Wildlife Management Area

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The

Foreword

Your link to unforgettable adventures

Dear valued passengers and partners, I am delighted to welcome you onboard and to share an overview of Flightlink Ltd, a company I am immensely proud to lead.

Since our inception in February 2002, we have steadily grown from a small charter operation into becoming one of the leading airlines in Tanzania. Our unwavering commitment to safety, reliability, and exceptional customer service has been the cornerstone of that success.

Our dedicated team of aviation professionals, boasting over 200 years of combined experience, forms the backbone of our operations. Rigorous training programs for pilots, cabin crew, and ground staff ensure the highest levels of service and safety standards.

Our strategic fleet expansion, including the recent acquisition of a third ATR72 aircraft this Christmas, will significantly enhance our capacity and expand our route network. With the upcoming launch of daily flights to Mwanza and Kilimanjaro, we reaffirm our commitment to connecting travellers to the heart of East Africa.

As the premier airline connecting tourists to the breathtaking safari circuits of East Africa, Flightlink provides seamless travel experiences and unforgettable adventures. We are equally committed to environmental sustainability, with our fleet of fuelefficient ATR aircraft contributing to a reduced carbon footprint.

We extend our sincere gratitude to our valued customers for their continued support and loyalty. Your trust in us fuels our passion to deliver excellence.

Happy landings,

Munawer Dhirani Managing Director and Accountable Manager

Serengeti by numbers

One of the most impressive nature spectacles in the world, Serengeti National Park has an ecosystem that supports an unprecedented density of wild animals – from globally threatened or endangered animal species to Big Five headliners. Zebra Stripes runs the numbers.

25,000km2

The area of the national park. Serengeti is named after the Maasai word ‘siringet’ which means endless plains

2 million

The number of wildebeests that come together – along with hundreds of thousands of other hooved mammals – for the never-ending spectacle that is The Great Migration.

1,000km

The distance of the Great Migration’s annual circular trek that spans Kenya and Tanzania.

4,000

The estimated number of lions in Serengeti, which may be the largest population of lions in Africa.

1,175,695

The number of visitors to Serengeti in 2022.

300

Despite the cheetah is the most endangered large cat in Africa, there is a healthy population in Serengeti.

500

Bird species recorded. They include the highest population of ostrich in Africa and the ubiquitous long-crested eagle. The best time to see birds in the Serengeti is from November through April.

SUSTAINABLE SAFARIS ON THE

Flightlink flies into the Fort Ikoma airstrip as a starting point for passengers’ game drives and safaris in the Serengeti National Park. Landings here also allow easy access to the Ikona Wildlife Management Area (WMA), a picturesque conservation zone that is home to diverse wildlife including the initial animal gathering for the Great Migration as well as village communities keen to share their traditional ways. For Denis Lebouteux, who has set up two luxury lodges here as well as an environmentally minded tour company, it is one of Tanzania’s finest wildernesses. He shares more about this crowd-free safari secret.

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What is the Ikona Wildlife Management Area?

This community-based wildlife conservation area was established in 2003 and spans 242 sq km of pristine wilderness. Tourism here provides an income for resident village communities and creates an incentive to conserve the ecosystem and local wildlife.

“Tanzania has created over 20 WMAs,” says Denis. “Ikona is among the most exemplary. I was lucky enough to discover the Serengeti National Park in the early 1980s. Ikona WMA

reminds me of the Serengeti of that time – same landscapes but with far fewer tourists). You can drive for several hours in the WMA without seeing a single other car.”

How do you get there?

Flightlink flies three times daily to if you are flying in to either the Fort Ikoma Seronera, which is an official departure and entry point to Serengeti National Park. Ikona WMA is just a short drive away. Nestled between the Serengeti National Park and the Grumeti and

FRINGES OF THE SERENGETI

Ikorongo Game Reserves, the WMA is a 30-minute drive north from Fort Ikoma.

How does tourism support the community and in turn the environment here?

The WMA model was intended to empower local communities to be more involved in the management of wildlife to promote sustainable biodiversity conservation together with rural economic development. There are five villages within the Ikona WMA – Nyigoti, Robanda, Nyichoka, NattaUmbiso and Makundusi. About half of the revenue accrued from tourism ventures are distributed equally among the villages. The villages use the funds for their development projects in education, health, and water supply. A portion of the money is also invested in conservation projects. “The

fees collected from the tourism are distributed between Tanzanian Wildlife Management Authority (TAWA) and the villages. The tourism sector also gives jobs to villagers and the lodges established in the WMA are buying local products – vegetables, fruits, eggs, chicken – to feed their guests.”

What about the wildlife to be experienced?

This area supports a variety of wildlife. Big mammals include elephant, lion, buffalo, giraffe, leopard, zebra, hippo,

and crocodile. A little-known, but impressive fact is that between May and June this is the assembly point of the wildebeest during their annual migration when the vast herds move in the direction of the northern Serengeti towards the Masai Mara. “The Great Migration crosses the region twice a year and sometimes lingers there for several weeks,” says Denis. “Ikona WMA has an exceptional location. It slots into the northern tip of the Serengeti, giving it its ‘Y’ shape and is protected on its eastern flank by Ikorongo game-controlled area and on its western flank by Grumeti game-controlled area. Thus, the area is very well protected from the risks of poaching. The Grumeti River crosses the WMA, providing water all-year round to support wildlife. Almost all the fauna observable in the central Serengeti is present in the WMA. This is also true of the bird life.”

Ikoma Hills lodge offers spectacular views across the Ikona reserve

A buffer zone to the Serengeti

The massive herds of wildebeest, zebra and antelope can move seamlessly from the Ikona WMA into Tanzania’s flagship national park, the Serengeti. Positioned on the national park’s borders, Ikona also acts as a buffer zone to safeguard the integrity of the Serengeti from negative pressures. With conservation of the ecosystem ingrained in local life here, the wildlife can roam with impunity and are protected from the risk of poaching. “The Serengeti Park is bordered on all sides, either by reserves or by buffer zones like Ikona WMA,” says Denis. “Buffer zones have been established between the national parks and the surrounding agricultural regions. Because the parks are not fenced, there is a high risk of conflicts between villages and wildlife. For example, elephants can destroy the copings, lions can kill the livestock. A WMA has rules almost identical to those

of the parks but less drastic: no construction, no crops and no grazing. So, by creating these buffer zones with an intermediate status, the park is distanced from rural villages.”

Where to stay

Denis has set up two luxury hilltop lodges with spectacular views – Grumeti Hills and Ikoma Hills – that operate in alignment to the WMA’s ecofriendly principles. Both lodges are entirely powered by solar energy and game drives make use of a fleet of e-powered 4x4s – the first of their kind to be introduced in East Africa. Grumeti Hills offers 20 spacious en-suite tents and the lodge is just 2km

from the Grumeti River – one of the first obstacles facing the wildebeests on their migration. Ikoma Hills has 10 luxuriously appointed tents well-spacedout on the hills and all facing west for prime views. Facilities include a bar, restaurant and outdoor swimming pool.

Safaris in the WMA

Denis says: “At Grumeti Hills and Ikoma Hills it is possible to go on e-4x4 safari, a walking safari accompanied by a ranger and a naturalist guide and a night safari which allows you to discover a large number of nocturnal species. As the fees are lower than in the neighbouring Serengeti, there is less pressure to go on safari from morning to evening. We have more peaceful safaris. We also offer the possibility of visiting the village of Mugumu and its market.”

For more details on the lodges and to book, visit www.grumeti-hills.com and www.ikoma-hills.com

Daybreak dip: the pool at Ikona Hills

Electric vehicles are a feature of sustainable safaris here

GET IN THE ZONES:

Experiencing the ever-changing ecosystems of Mt Kilimanjaro

Few peaks can compare with Mount Kilimanjaro in the rich transition of landscape it presents to climbers. Taking on Africa’s highest peak is a journey from forested foothills through blasted alpine landscapes to a glacier-shrouded summit. Zebra Stripes takes a closer look at the flora and fauna that thrive in these rare ecosystems.

Mt Kilimanjaro – Africa’s highest peak – rises about 4,900 metres from its plateau base so it is no surprise that a journey to the top involves passing through some dramatic changes in environment. In fact, the Roof of Africa has five distinct climate zones – concentric bands in which conditions change with elevation – featuring 2,500 plant species, some of which can be found nowhere else in the world. From lush fertile foothills to glacier-shrouded summit, here’s what’s in store for climbers.

Zone 1 The cultivated

Altitude: 1,000 metres to 1,800 metres

What is it? This lush, fertile zone in the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro is known as Tanzania’s leading coffee producing region with plantations terracing the landscape. Many of the farmers belong to the Chagga tribe that live on the southern and eastern slopes. To the west and north are the cattle farming Maasai.

Flora to look out for: Aside from the plentiful coffee and banana farms, you’ll see a huge variety of flowering plants such as mountain

gladiolus, violets, begonias and especially the Kilimanjaro Impatiens, a rosy orchid-like flower with an unusual yellow tail that is only to be found on Kilimanjaro.

Wildlife spotting: The lower slopes are filled with wildlife well beyond the herds of cattle the Maasai marshal. Leopard, elephant, and Cape buffalo are rare, but possible sights.

Zone 2 Rain Forest

Altitude: 1,800 metres to 3,000 metres

What is it? Mt Kilimanjaro treks begin amid this ring of dense, damp jungle. The humid environment is an ideal warm-up for your tough climbing ahead and it is also an ideal habitat for diverse flora and fauna with almost 2,000 mm of rain falling here each year.

Flora to look out for: Gigantic camphor trees that can reach 45 metres in height shroud your path and you’ll also see orchids, ferns, fig and olive trees covering this area.

Wildlife spotting: Don’t take it personally, but wild animals don’t really like humans so few are going to hang around trails that are frequented by groups of Kili climbers. However, they are out there in number and the rain forest zone, with its shelter and water sources, contains plenty of special, if shy, wildlife such as super-cute bush babies, the Mt Kilimanjaro two-horned chameleon and long-legged wildcat the serval. Among the most skittish is the forest antelope the Abbott’s duiker. True to its name – duiker means ‘dive’ in Afrikaans – it will fling itself into forest cover if it thinks it has

been spotted. Another potential sight is the tree hyrax. You wouldn’t think to find an animal distantly related to the elephant jumping between branches in a forest, but this small nocturnal mammal with three back feet does just that.

Zone 3 Low alpine

Altitude: 3,000 metres to 4,200 metres

What is it? At approximately 3,000 metres the rainforest rapidly gives way to semi-arid grasslands and moorlands. The weather takes a plunge –temperatures can drop below freezing at night – and vegetation now is sparse but still spectacular.

Flora to look out for: You can’t miss the gigantic Dendrosenecio kilimanjari in damper, more sheltered parts of the mountain. These huge succulents can

A

You can’t miss the gigantic Dendrosenecio kilimanjari in damper, more sheltered parts of the mountain. These huge succulents can grow up to 10 metres in height. "

grow up to 10 metres in height with thick stems crowned by a pineapple-like shock of green leaves. As the senecios grow taller, their leaves die and stay on the plant, forming a fur-like insulation around the trunk. Lobelias close their leaves at night, covering their central core for warmth. They have grown here for millennia and have become an unofficial emblem for the mountain.

Wildlife spotting: Large animals such as elephants and buffalo can be found in the lower areas of this zone, but the cold and scant water sources combine to scare off most animals. Opportunistic, white-necked ravens are likely to still follow your group with interest to scavenge on any left-over supplies. Small rodents make their home in tiny caves carved out of the volcanic rock, which will explain the presence of soaring birds of prey.

trail through the rainforest zone in Mt Kilimanjaro's lower slopes

Zone 4 High alpine

Altitude: 4,200 metres to 5,000 metres

What is it? Take a look around. Your environment will tell you are now where many fear to tread. An inhospitable desertlike environment with intense sunlight during the day (cover up and apply lots of sun cream) and inordinately cold at night. However, it is here, on clear days that you can see the summit in all its majesty

to spur you on for the last stretch.

Flora to look out for: It may look resolutely lifeless here, but three species of tussock grass are able to cope with the harsh conditions. For up to about 4,700 metres you’ll also find the Asteraceae, a bright yellow daisy-like flower bringing some welcome gaiety to blasted landscape.

Wildlife spotting: OK, unless you’ve smuggled your lap dog in the pocket of your waterproof for the walk of a lifetime (don’t do this, pets are banned from Tanzania national parks), wildlife up here is slim to none.

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Zone 5 Arctic summit

Altitude range: 5,000 metres to 5,895 metres

What is it? As you set off around midnight for the last 1,000-metre push to the top for a bucket-list sunrise summit, you’ll have to contend with oxygen levels around half of what they are on the lower reaches of the mountain, freezing temperatures, blistering sun and whipping winds. It’s no surprise that this is where many trekkers are forced to turn back. Even those that make it over the fine glacial silt that covers the slopes that reach up to Kilimanjaro’s summit are advised to savour the moment at speed and start the return journey.

Flora: The frozen ground means no vegetation grows. Instead, you can feast your eyes on the large glaciers are visible from Kilimanjaro’s crater rim.

Wildlife: In his book ‘The Snows of Kilimanjaro’, legendary US author Ernest Hemingway says he found the remains of a leopard amid the ice near the summit. He even, apparently, cut off part of its ear as proof for when he returned. Can we believe him? No similar finds have been recorded since and this is he man who once wrote: “In Africa a thing is true at first light and a lie by noon” so…

MWANZA LAUNCH YOUR LAKE ADVENTURES FROM

Tanzania’s share of Lake Victoria, the largest lake in Africa and the second largest in the world, has plenty of attractions for intrepid travellers. Here's our guide to venturing beyond the standard tourist trail and for soaking up the local rhythms of life.

Mwanza, Tanzania’s second-largest city, is set on Lake Victoria’s shore and ringed with green hills strewn with enormous boulders. Among the biggest is the precariously balanced Bismarck Rock – one of the many dramatic spots to take in the honeyed sunsets over the lake here. The port city’s trade links with neighbouring Uganda and Kenya have seen it rapidly expand, but despite the skyscrapers that have shot up the city retains a relaxed appeal. In the centre of town are colonial buildings such as the hilltop Dr Robert Koch’s House while the city’s Indian influence can be seen in the many mosques and Hindu temples. Head for the shop-filled Makorobi area for some retail therapy.

FLY WITH US TO MWANZA Daily from Dar es Salaam from December 2024. To book, visit flightlink. co.tz/en

The city’s Kamanga Ferry Terminal is the launch point for a host of steamers that set out for the lake’s remote islands and national parks. Just 10 minutes on the water will get you to Saanane Island National Park. Its Tanzania smallest national park and also distinguishes itself as the only place you’ll find De Brazza’s monkey as

well as impala, rock hyrax and a raft of reptiles.

You can also reach the lake’s largest island, Ukerewe, which has become a haven for Tanzanians living with albinism. The remote refuge is gorgeously unspoilt, and visitors can explore by bicycle or kayak and immerse themselves in cultures blissfully unaware of

Saanane Island resident: the De Brazza's monkey

life beyond the shores. Sequestered in the lake’s southwest reaches are the forests of Rubondo Island National Park, which provides a home for wildlife such as elephant, giraffe and hippo as well as a host of marine birds, including huge numbers of fish eagle and African grey parrots. The island also has many

beautiful beaches to enjoy.

The laidback wildlife adventures available here are the perfect safari appetiser for a Serengeti–Lake Natron–Ngorongoro loop, which can be launched from Mwanza.

The other waterside towns of Musuma and Bukoma have a tranquil charm of their own and a chance to experience deeply rural Tanzania.

My Mwanza homecoming

How special is Mwanza?

Well, Rock City native Samana Karim spent a “remarkable” eight years studying and working abroad but came to realise there is no place like home. Here she recommends some cultural, culinary and shopping adventures that capture the essence of her hometown.

Where do you go to soak up the culture of the city?

Immerse yourself in the vibrant culture of Mwanza by visiting the Bujora Cultural Centre. This centre showcases traditional music, dance, and art, allowing you to witness the rich cultural heritage of the region first-hand. Don't miss the opportunity to witness captivating performances by local dance troupes and

explore the museum, which houses a fascinating collection of artefacts.

Where are your favourite places to dine?

When it comes to dining in Mwanza, I have two favourite recommendations.

For a truly authentic experience, head to Tilapia Restaurant, situated on the shores of Lake Victoria. Indulge in

Lake Victoria Facts

1 Lake Victoria is also called by its original native name Lake Nyanza

2 It lies mainly in Tanzania and Uganda but also borders on Kenya

3 Among the freshwater lakes of the world it is second in size only to Lake Superior in North America.

their mouth-watering fish dishes – including, of course, freshly caught tilapia – while enjoying stunning lake views. Alternatively, if you’re in the mood for international flavours, visit Malaika Beach. This charming lodge offers a delightful fusion of African and European cuisines, with an emphasis on fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Where are the best places to go shopping?

Mwanza has an array of shopping destinations that cater to all your needs. One notable establishment is the Rock City Mall, a rising shopping hub housing a variety of stores, from trendy clothing boutiques to stylish furniture showrooms.

In addition to the Rock City Mall, I highly recommend exploring the bustling Capri Point Market. Here, you’ll find a treasure trove of locally crafted souvenirs, vibrant fabrics, and traditional artwork. The market offers a vibrant atmosphere and is an excellent place to engage with local artists and support their craftsmanship.

What is your favourite Instagramworthy beauty spot?

Head to the top of Bismarck Rock. This iconic rock formation provides a panoramic

view of the city and Lake Victoria. Capture breath-taking shots as the sun bathes the landscape in golden hues. The stunning vista and unique rock formations make it an ideal spot for capturing unforgettable moments.

Tell us one thing we can do to live like a local.

Join in the colourful festivities of the Sukuma tribe, the largest ethnic group in the region. Explore the local markets during market days, which are vibrant and lively events where you can witness the Sukuma people in their traditional attire. Engage with the locals, learn a few phrases in their language, and embrace the warmth and hospitality that Mwanza has to offer.

Malakai Beach

Lake Victoria magic hour at Mwanza

After

seven years and an investment of some USD 10 billion, Tanzania’s new electric Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) is finally up and running.

For all Tanzanians this is, perhaps, the nation’s greatest moment since independence from the UK in 1961. The SGR –linking Dar es Salaam with the capital Dodoma and eventually towns and cities beyond – stands as a shining symbol of nationhood and a striking embodiment of the country’s progress and modernity. A defining moment if ever there was one.

High-speed electric train connects Dar with Dodoma

Run by state-owned Tanzania Railways Corp, the SGR operated its first train in mid-June as the 0610 eased out of Dar es Salaam’s gleaming new station, arriving in Morogoro – some 300 km away – just one hour 45 minutes later. President Dr Samia Suluhu Hassan had generously paid the fares of all the lucky passengers travelling on the inaugural service that morning. In early August and to celebrate the newly extended service to

Illustration purposes only

Dodoma, Mama Samia herself got to sample the three-and-ahalf-hour journey from Dar.

The national rejoicing and sheer amazement at what Tanzania has achieved with the new SGR, needs to be put into context. There was time not so very long ago when the Tanzanian rail network was in sad decline. Over reliant on a limiting colonial-era metre-gauge system with mostly obsolete rolling stock, Tanzania’s railways – like those in neighbouring Kenya and Uganda – were little more than a relic of a bygone age. But in the last few years there has been a dramatic change as East African governments have recognised the importance of railways and how these could be a driver of economic growth.

By the middle of the last decade, it was clear that something radical needed to be done in Tanzania to improve the rail network and make the switch from metre to standard gauge (1,435mm) – currently used for 60 per cent of the world’s rail track. Tanzania, with a longstanding relationship with Beijing, first opted to engage the Chinese in this ambitious task and as part of that nation’s Belt and Road Initiative that was largely aimed at changing Africa’s transport infrastructure.

Investment

It took the hard-nosed instincts of late president John Pombe Magufuli (affectionately known as JPM) to realise that the Chinese-backed financing deal

was not for Tanzania, and he chose not to proceed with the construction agreement signed with China by his predecessor Jakaya Kikwete. JPM instead opted to get attractive funding from Turkey and Portugal whose companies would eventually build the now complete first leg of the project – from Dar es Salaam to Dodoma.

Given the rave on-line reviews posted since the launch of the new SGR, there can’t be many who miss the apparent charm, the history, the uncertainty, the delays, the cancellations and the never quite knowing if you are going to leave on time or when you might arrive at your destination of the old metre gauge service.

The first phase of the SGR network from Dar to Dodoma took seven years to complete

But that has all changed – and how. The new SGR can effortlessly whisk passengers at 160km an hour in air-conditioned comfort three times a day from central Dar to Morogoro with only four stops along the way –making this journey a possible daily commute.

More to come

The sheer wonder of the SGR is perfectly up by local musician and regular rail user Harmonize, who recently zipped from Dar to Dodoma. Filmed enjoying the experience, he told local TV: “This is amazing. We are used to see these things on TV in Europe, etc. The train’s stylish, you just chill as you travel along.”

But Dodoma will not be the end of the line for long. The SGR still

has a long way to go. The aim now is to compete four more stages of the project, which will see the track extend to Mwanza and Kigoma and then to Bujumbura, in Burundi, Kigali, in Rwanda, and ultimately to Goma in the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

From a freight perspective the railway line is intended to speed the movement of goods between the port in Dar es Salaam and its domestic hinterland and beyond.

The second phase now underway covers a distance of approximately 426 km from Morogoro via Dodoma to Makutopora in the central Singida Region. No doubt further exuberant celebrations are planned across Tanzania as each stage is completed.

The new age of the train

Tanzania’s narrow-gauge rail network impressively comprised seven lines stretching 2,706 km across almost the entire country. But little by little, the loss-making but heavily subsidised national railways lost ground as would-be passengers opted for cheaper bus transport, were prepared to drive long distances in their own cars, or for the affluent few, took the plane. The train was viewed as yesterday’s mode of travel and slowly and inexorably it fell out of favour.

One country, three gauges

The upshot of the new SGR is that Tanzania now enjoys (if that’s the right word) three different rail gauges – only Brazil with four has more.

While far from ideal, this is an accident of history and politics. In addition to the old narrow gauge and the new SGR, Tanzania’s also uses the Cape gauge (1,067 mm) in the form of the TAZARA railway linking Dar es Salaam with Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia.

Ostensibly built to handle Zambian copper exports, riding the weekly TAZARA passenger train proves something of an international adventure with rail aficionados from around the world coming to Tanzania just for the two-night experience (and it can be a real experience) across 1,860km of Africa.

SGR RAIL LINK

The living history of

The labyrinthine streets of Stone Town, the historic centre of Zanzibar City, are full of architectural wonders. These ornate, imposing buildings are a living reminder of the Omani rule of the 18th and 19th centuries when the port town was a hub of maritime trading activity between Africa and Asia. It was a formative period that saw the shameful rise of slavery, but also the beginnings of its abolition and opened the archipelago to the international influences that inform cosmopolitan Swahili culture to this day. Here are some of the buildings to look out for on your stroll around Stone Town.

The Old Fort

The Old Fort – also known as Ngome Kongwe in Swahili – is the oldest building in Stone Town. Portuguese colonialists began building the fortification, but in 1698, Zanzibar fell under the control of the Sultan of

Oman. The Portuguese were expelled, and the building was completed in an Omani style in 1780. It was later used both as a prison by the British officials until 1950, and also as a railway workshop in the 1920s when a track from the village of Bububu

to town was built. Now it is used as a cultural centre of Stone Town, offering a spectacular amphitheatre for events such as the Zanzibar International Film Festival and the celebration of live African music that is Sauti za Busara. The fort is essentially

a square of high, brown wall topped with crenelated battlements for protection. In the courtyard there are some remnants of earlier buildings, including those of a Portuguese church and another Omani fortification.

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The House of Wonders

Also known as Beit-al-Ajaib, this large ceremonial palace built in 1883 by Sultan Sayyid Bargash is the tallest and largest building in Stone Town. It was intended as a ceremonial palace and official reception hall, celebrating modernity. It was named ‘House of Wonders’ because it was the first building in Zanzibar to have electricity and the first building in East Africa to feature an elevator. It’s located on the seafront along Mizingani Road and is considered one of the town's most well-known landmarks. After the 1964 revolution the building was used by the ruling party and in 2001 became the Museum of Zanzibar. In 2020, the front of the House of Wonders suffered a partial collapse. It has yet to be repaired.

Old Dispensary

This 19th-century building has one of the most attractive and best-preserved examples of hand-carved balconies that are a feature of many of the homes of wealthy traders here. Many of the traders hailed from India and the style owes much to the

Photo credit: Sevde Sevan / Shutterstock.com

exquisite traditional mansions known as ‘havelis’ popular in Gujarat. Other striking features include the sculpted clock tower, the stucco work, covered courtyard and the carved bridges that connect all the three floors. Also known as Ithnashiri Dispensary, this building was constructed between 1887 and 1894 by Tharia Topan, a prominent Ismaili Indian merchant who also acted as financial adviser to the sultan and as banker to Tippu Tip, Zanzibar’s most notorious slave trader. Topan did not intend the building for himself – he had an imposing home on Hurumzi Street, which has now been modernised and re-opened as the character-filled Emerson on Hurumzi hotel – but to serve as a charity hospital for the poor. The dispensary fell into disrepair during the 1970s and 1980s, but it was renovated with an eye-catching mint-green colour scheme in 1995. A few years later it opened as the Stone Town Cultural Centre selling local artwork and crafts.

Said Muhoud Mosque

Islam is the main religion in Zanzibar, with about 99 per cent of the population identifying as Muslim. There are 52 mosques in Stone Town and amplified calls to prayer are part of the evocative daily soundtrack here. Said Muhoud Mosque stems from the 1830s but it believed to be built on the site of an earlier mosque that dates to the 15th century. It has some unusual architectural features, including a cone-shaped minaret (you’ll find just two others in East Africa) and a square platform.

This 19thcentury building has one of the most attractive and best-preserved examples of handcarved balconies"

Hamamni Persian Baths

Sultan Seyyid Bargash – the second sultan of Zanzibar –commissioned Persian architects to build the baths between 1870 and 1888 and they remained in use until 1920. The building had hot and cold baths, toilets, shaving areas, and a restaurant. Only wealthy Zanzibaris could make use of it as there was an entrance fee. They were open both to men and women, but with different hours of admittance. The baths are no longer working, but the building was restored in 2006 and is open to tourist visits.

The Royal Cemetery

Located next to the House of Wonders, this is a burial ground where nine of the 12 Sultans who ruled Zanzibar and their children were buried. It has

Photo credit: Andy Soloman / Shutterstock.com

Photo credit: Sun_Shine / Shutterstock.com

recently undergone major renovations by the National Records and Archives Authority. In March this year the authority also opened an on-site exhibition that explores the history of the cemetery and those interred.

Christ Church

The European occupants of Zanzibar also left their mark on Stone Town. This Anglican Cathedral has much become a symbol of the end of the slave trade area. It was built on the orders of Bishop Steere, a champion of the anti-slavery movement and the foundation stone was laid down on Christmas Day 1873, the same year that the slave trade was officially abolished. The cathedral’s wooden crucifix is made from the tree under which pioneering missionary and abolitionist David Livingstone died in Zambia. Instead of the coral stone and lime mortar favoured by Stone Town builders, the cathedral was made of cement, but there are some Arabic features in its mainly Gothic design. It is said that Sultan Barghash donated the clock for the cathedral tower on the condition the tower should not exceed the tower at the House of Wonders in height.

Architectural features to look out for Barazas

Barazas are benches are found outside traditional Swahili homes or the heavy doors of Arab-style townhouses. The long, narrow streets of Stone Town are flanked by baraza benches built on each side. Here Islamic men would traditionally receive visitors in their homes without compromising the privacy of the women of the house. Coffee and snacks would be served on the baraza to anyone who arrived, with only the closest friends or family members being invited into the innermost recesses of the house. Today, baraza are still a meeting point for all sections of Zanzibari society, whether it’s to gossip, play games of bao or cards, drink super-strong Arabic coffee or to just take a nap.

Doors

The massive teak or mahogany doors grace the front of almost every building of note in Stone Town, and their style has been copied all over the world. Each door is unique with craftsmen tailoring their designs to the social position, religious practices and occupation of the future owner. Due to the Islamic ban on depicting living things, most door patterns were abstract, but there was much that could be suggested. For example, a merchant who’d made his fortune from a fleet of fishing boats would reside behind a door whose carved patterns flowed sinuously up and down like ocean waves. The outermost strip of the doorframe is carved with a chain or rope to enslave any evil spirits attempting to force their way into the residence. The Arab inscriptions carved in the stone frieze above the lintel are usually verses from the Koran or the names of the house owner who commissioned the door.

Balconies

Another notable feature of Stone Town's houses are their balconies. Intricately carved from rosewood or teak, these are an import from India. The bigger the balcony, the greater the status of the owner. These enclosed balconies allowed the ladies of the house to take the air while still being shielded from prying eyes in the street below.

The Memorial for Slaves in the gardens of Christ Church

The best restaurants in Arusha Restaurants

Three flights each day from Serengeti, four daily flights from Zanzibar, four flights a week from Pemba, three flights each day from Dar es Salaam.

To book, visit flightlink. co.tz/en

With its crisp mountain air and wealth of beautiful hiking trails in Arusha National Park and the foothills of

Mount Meru, Arusha is a great place to work up an appetite. Luckily the city has a growing food scene to satisfy your hunger in style. Here’s a selection of our favourite restaurants.

FOR FAST FOOD FROM AROUND THE WORLD… George’s Tavern

There are synergies between Greek and East African cuisine. They both share a love of grilled marinated meat served on skewers. One calls it ‘souvlaki’, the other ‘mishkaki’. So maybe it is not surprising that when Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef and Hellenic expat George Mavromoustakis launched his restaurant George’s Tavern in central Arusha it became a huge hit. While the menu contains plenty of George’s favourite dishes from home, it is international in scope. Diners can choose from a huge range of freshly made pizzas, sub sandwiches, burgers and even sushi. The setting adds to the restaurant’s appeal. Despite being in the heart of Arusha, the outdoor and terrace dining areas are shrouded in tall trees bringing tranquillity, shade and privacy. A gastro pub has recently been added to the site. The clientele is a mix of locals and tourists with the regular live music, karaoke and dance nights always attracting a crowd.

Instagram: @georges_tavern

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Restaurants Arusha

FOR THE BEST BARBECUE…

Khan’s BBQ

Rivertrees Restaurant

Carnivores have been congregating at this hugely popular barbecue joint for 35 years. Khan’s BBQ – also known as ‘Chicken on the Bonnet’ – is now run by the four sons to the Indian husbandand-wife team who launched the restaurant in 1989. Over the years its banks of sizzling grills roadside on Mosque Street in the city centre have produced some of Arusha’s best street food. Classic dishes include chicken tikka, sheesh kebabs and mishkaki, along with assorted salads. If you want savour an exclusive Khans culinary experience, order some and tender juicy nundu (cow hump), which is a rare but raved about East African grilled delicacy.

Instagram: @khansbarbeque

This cosy restaurant is part of the Rivertrees Country Inn – a former coffee farm converted into a hotel with 34 self-contained cottages spread over 10 acres of lush gardens in Mount Meru’s sloping foothills. On a clear day, from the restaurant’s terrace diners can see the iconic snow-capped peak of Mt Kilimanjaro. The menu is another sight to savour with tasty meals based on tried-and-true old family favourites and drawing on garden-fresh ingredients as well as the best of the region’s locally grown coffees. There’s a wood-burning pizza oven with a range of toppings to choose from and even a plantain-based gluten-free dough option. Local favourites include baked perch papillote that features a whole Nile perch wrapped in banana leaf with sautéed vegetable while for vegans there’s wali na maharage, a coconut beans and rice bowl with caramelised onions and red cabbage. Candle-lit dinners are served by the warmth of the fireplace on cooler evenings or under the stars for date night destination dining.

Instagram: @rivertrees_country_inn

FOR FOOD WITH A VIEW…

FOR THOSE WITH HEARTY APPETITES…

Leon’s Garden

The gigantic platters that this attractive outdoor restaurant serves up for customers are made for grand celebrations. They are often so big they need to be carried to the dining tables by a team of waiting staff team and our laden with an entire barbecued goats or enormous whole grilled Nile perch. These are then followed by trays heaving with an array of Tanzanian classic side dishes such as cassava, ugali, matoke, samosas, chips and rice. This is group-friendly dining with food made for sharing. More intimate dinners are catered together with a series of cool wooden booths among the manicured gardens for privacy. You’ll still need to have brought your appetite!

Instagram: @leons_garden

FOR LOCAL VEGAN CUISINE…

Themi Living Garden

This hidden gem in Arusha is tucked away in an idyllic woodland spot with a stream trickling by. Every lunchtime, women from a local co-op fill tables with pots of locally grown organic food such as bean and plantain stew, beans, rice and fresh fruit juices. Customers pay as little as TZS 6,000 (there is the option to pay more if you wish) to eat as much as they like from the plant-friendly, buffet set-up. The centre of Arusha is just footsteps away, but the Themi Living Garden feels a world away from the urban bustle. There is also an on-site selling some very good local artwork.

Facebook: ThemiLivingGarden

KENYA’S BEST BEACHES

Kenya has some of the best beaches in Africa. From pristine vanilla-sand hideaways to laidback surfing hangouts, we’ve selected some classic coastal resorts.

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Three flights each week between Dar, Zanzibar and Arusha.

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AWARDWINNER DIANI

With 17km of soft white sand, lapped by calm azure waters and all framed by forest, Diani has a strong claim for being the best beach not only in Kenya, but also the entire continent. Indeed, it has been voted Africa’s Best Beach at the World Travel Awards a record five times. Coral reefs protect the beach from heavy surf, creating perfect conditions to swim, snorkel or to try windsurfing. When you need to refuel or quench your thirst there are plenty of beachside bars and cafés to sample. Even after sunset (spectacular here), Diani has plenty to offer after dark with some of Kenya's best coastal nightlife to enjoy until the early hours.

Getting there: The beach is only 30km from Moi International Airport in Mombasa, but Diani also has its own single-strip airport (Ukunda) with a number of flights (including Safarilink) linking it with safari trips inland and Nairobi’s Wilson Airport.

Beyond the beach:

As well the beach itself offering the sight of black and white colobus monkeys in the treetops, Diani also offers wildlife adventures at the nearby Shimba Hills National Reserve, which is around

an hour’s drive away. You can also try out a range of adventure sports with kitesurfing, skydiving and deep-sea fishing all available.

Where to stay: Whether you’re a backpacker on a budget or wanting to splash the cash on a luxury stay, all are catered for in Diani. One of the most elegant beachfront options is the Maji Beach Boutique Hotel (the-maji.com) a Swahili-style mansion that enfolds a wonderful pool and gardens.

HIDDEN GEM GAZI

If the crowds at Diani do not appeal, continue south towards the Tanzanian border and you’ll come across this almost deserted gem. Gazi is a secluded stretch of sand that slips under the radar of most beach lovers. Here, a forest of palm trees gives way to an unspoilt expanse of beach with calm waters sheltered by the off-shore Chale Island. You’ll be all alone in your personal paradise.

Getting there: Gazi is about a 30-minute taxi drive south along the coast road from Diani or around and an hour and a half from Mombasa.

Beyond the beach: At the north end of the beach at the jaw-droppingly beautiful Gazi Bay there is a mangrove forest that can now be navigated along the Gazi Women’s Mangrove Boardwalk, a community-based project that protects this valuable yet delicate ecosystem. Women from Gazi village manage the

SWAHILI SURF SHELA BEACH

site and provide guided tours of the mangroves as well as a restaurant serving freshly caught fish. There’s also the opportunity to canoe or snorkel in the mangrove estuary.

Where to stay: For accommodation that blends in with the pristine surroundings, head to Cove Treehouses (covetreehouses.com) on the far side of the mangroves from Gazi village. Here you’ll find six self-catering villas nestled in a picturesque cove.

Most people head to Lamu Island to visit its Unesco Heritage Site Old Town, which is the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa. However, it also offers a bohemian beach idyll in Shela in the south-east corner of the small island. Here you’ll find a laidback and artsy community, including many expats, that has settled around this beautiful and barely touched beach. Everything moves at a stately pace here, except the wind that can really whip up and coupled with the lack of barrier reef means this is one of the few places along the coast with decent waves for surfing.

Getting there: Regular ferries leave Mokowe Jetty on the mainland to Lamu. From there it is around 3km to Shela.

Beyond the beach: Lamu Old Town is a living museum of Swahili culture. Life among its ornate inner courtyards, verandas, and elaborately carved wooden doors has gone one mostly unchanged for centuries with around 6,000 donkeys still the only means of transport here.

Where to stay: To soak up the heritage of the island, stay at the Kijani Hotel (kijani-lamu. com/), a traditional Swahili villa in Shela village with 11 individually designed rooms and a lovely rooftop restaurant.

DRIVE TO THE DUNES KOLA BEACH

Another unspoilt gem that few beyond the most avid of Kenyan beach lovers are aware of. A short drive north of Malindi in Kilifi County lies the village of Mambrui. Here you’ll find a wide expanse of golden beach backed by banks of sand dunes – a rare sight on the coast. This is Kolo Beach. Tourists are few here, in fact the only regular visitors are the steady offshore winds that create fantastic conditions for kitesurfing. It is also a great spot for deep sea fishing and Malindi Marine Park is close by with its pristine reefs ideal for snorkelling.

THE WONDER OF WATAMU JACARANDA BAY

The village of Watamu has become the epicentre of ecotourism in Kenya with a host of hospitality options promoting a footprint-free stay amid the village’s necklace of pristine beaches, rare wildlife and protected marine reserves. Watamu is actually a series of beaches set around cerulean coves on the sandy peninsula that separates the protected mangrove ecosystem of Mida Creek from the Indian Ocean, but if we had to pick one, it would be Jacaranda Bay – a 10km stretch of bone-white sand and crystal waters, which is also home to some of the best restaurants and resorts in the area and offers plenty of opportunities for water sports.

Getting there: Watamu is a 30-minute taxi journey south along the coast from Malindi International Airport.

Beyond the beach: Watamu has a deep cultural heritage. You can visit the stone ruins of the town of Gedi, which in the 13th century was an important settlement for the maritime spice trade between East Africa and the Middle East. Also close by is the Arabuko Sokoke Forest Preserve, a protected

area which is home to animals such as elephant, antelope and its namesake the Sokoke wildcat.

Where to stay: The Watamu coastline is dotted with chic retreats, but special mention goes to Lonno Lodge with its boutique collection of eight beachside rooms and suites. All have wonderful ocean views, but the huge 72 sqm Top Tower Room with its private and exclusive roof-top terrace is our pick.

Getting there: If you fly in to Malindi International Airport, Kola Beach is about a half-hour drive north along the coast road.

Beyond the beach: You could link a beach break

here with a safari adventure at Tsavo National Park, which is about a five-hour drive inland. Here you’ll find elephant, rhino, hippo, lions, cheetah and leopard across plains in the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro.

Where to stay: Kola Beach Resort (kolabeach.com) is an attractive collection of villas moments from the ocean and with a bar, restaurant, conference facilities, three pools, gym and spa.

Endemic birds

The unique birds of Pemba Pemba

If your home was the green and serene Pemba, why would you want to migrate? The island’s plentiful bird life includes five species not found anywhere else in the world. With the help of local guide Hamad Kombo, we learn more about these unique birds and their connection to the island’s ecosystem.

Pemba Scops Owl

What is it? With full-grown adult measuring around 18cm in length, the Pemba Scops-owl is one of the smallest scops-owls in the world. The population is estimated to be between 1,500 and 4,500 breeding pairs.

Distinguishing features: They have very short ear tufts, but they do prick up and become more noticeable when the owl is on alert. Their plumage is mostly brown but there are varieties with a more reddish hue to their feathers. Their colouring means they are well camouflaged within their woodland habitat, but your eye might be drawn to their yellow eyes and legs. Otherwise, you can listen out for their distinctive mournful hoot at night.

When and where to find it: Kombo says: “Like most owls, this bird is nocturnal. Daylight hours are spent roosting in dense wooded habitats such as the island’s tropical Ngezi Forest or in overgrown plantations. When night falls it flies off to hunt for insects, seek mates or engage in other owl behaviour.”

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Pemba Sunbird

What is it? A colourful, nectar-feeding bird. Its iridescent feathers and relaxing call will soon become familiar to you on the island.

Did you know? The lush, double canopy Ngezi Forest is one of the last remaining areas of indigenous forest that once covered much of the island. A forest reserve was set up to protect what is left, but the owl’s dwindling habitat has caused its numbers to decline.

Distinguishing features: The male of the species lives up to its name with iridescent feathers that reflects vivid blues, greens and purples. The females are grey-brown on their head and wings with a pale yellow underside with blurry streaking and a small pale yellow lateral streak at the back of the head. You may also notice one of their distinctive purse-shaped nests tightly bound with spiders’ webs and hanging from a tree branch.

When and where to find it: Kombo says: “The population of sunbirds is spread out across the whole island. In every habitat you will see them shining out.”

Did you know? The sunbird’s thin, downward curved bill allows them to dip into flowers to sip nectar using a long, tubular tongue. They are important pollinators for plants on Pemba. The sunbirds also eat fruit, small insects and spiders.

Pemba Green Pigeon

What is it? This fruit-loving pigeon sticks to the feeding grounds offered by the island’s dense forests and farms. As a frugivorous bird, it plays a significant role in seed dispersal. The seeds of the fruit the bird consumes pass through its digestive system, enabling the dispersal of these seeds across the forest, helping to maintain the biodiversity and overall health of the forest ecosystem.

Distinguishing features: The Pemba Green Pigeon is renowned for its for its resplendent green plumage and its purring call.

When and where to find it: Kombo says: “The Pemba Green Pigeon is found in forest, the forest edge, plantations, and villages, often around fruiting trees. Look out for betel palm trees in the forest as their fruit – which look like tiny apricots when ripe – is the bird’s favourite.”

Did you know? Pemba Green Pigeons are monogamous and spent their life with that partner. When you see them on the island it will mostly be as a loved-up couple.

Pemba Goshawk

What is it? This bird of prey is a recently discovered variety of African goshawk endemic to Pemba.

Distinguishing features: Its broad wings – almost twice the length of body – and elongated tail should identify this majestic bird. Females are larger and have paler feathers in contrast the male’s darker grey plumage.

When and where to find it: Kombo says: “The Pemba goshawk generally sticks to the island’s forest and diverse dense woodland.”

Did you know? Thanks to its broad wings, the goshawk can hunt at high speed, weaving effortlessly in and out of trees, while its legs and talons can catch its prey – usually small mammals and lizards – in flight.

Pemba White Eye

What is it? A small, sharp-billed warbler-like bird that inhabits dry or moist forests, bushlands, thickets and dry savannah.

Distinguishing features: As their name implies, they have a conspicuous ring of tiny white feathers around their eyes as if they were wearing spectacles. Its feathers are bright yellow with greyer shades across the wings.

When and where to find it: Kombo says: “Pemba White Eye flit through the air in noisy flocks all over the island so spotting them shouldn’t be an issue. They are very vocal. Listen out for their high-pitched, cheerful series of whistled notes.”

Did you know? They feed mainly on insects, but also soft fleshy flowers, nectar, fruit and small grains.

TANZANIA’S NEW BEYOND THE FAMILIAR

There's a new kind of safari emerging in Tanzania that explores the rich variety of attractions of the country beyond the traditional Big Five (lion, elephant, rhino, buffalo, and leopard). It’s time to explore Tanzania's ‘New Big 5’: biodiversity, culture, landscapes, experiences, and lifestyle.

1. Biodiversity

Tanzania is one of the most biodiverse countries in the world with over 55,000 confirmed species. Serengeti may grab the headlines for its large tracts of plains, woodlands and riverine forests that support a spectacular array of animal life, but Tanzania also contains six of the 25 globally known biodiversity hotspots. These include the Eastern Arc old Block-Mountain Forests with their endemic apes, the Great Lakes and their cichlid fish, and the marine reserves around the Zanzibar and Mafia archipelagos that attract underwater life such as whale sharks and humpback whales. Tanzania has more than one-third of Africa’s total plant species, including Africa violets and a host of orchids that bloom each year in Kitulo National Park, known as the ‘Serengeti of Flowers’.

2. Culture

Time in Tanzania brings the opportunity to immerse yourself in the country’s vibrant cultures. Explore the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro and experience the how the Maasai and

Chagga tribes live in harmony with land they consider sacred.

The Maasai people are also synonymous with the Serengeti. The semi-nomadic pastoralists pursue a centuries-old way of life grazing their cattle on the plains. Conservation measures have put limits on the Maasai’s room to roam, but tourism has brought new avenues for income with visits to Maasai settlements a popular excursion for visitors.

Fewer travellers may be aware of the Hadzabe and the Datoga tribes that also live in the Serengeti. Like the Maasai, the Datoga have had to restrict their nomadic herding lifestyle and settle in more permanent villages. Visits will reveal the tribe’s creative skills with brass from which they make necklaces and wrist and ankle bracelets. This jewellery creates a percussive accompaniment to their ritual dancing.

The Hadzabe are one of the last remaining hunter-gather tribes. They number only in the hundreds now, spread among populations in designated land around the Lake Eyasi basin and the Serengeti Plateau.

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Melnikov Dmitriy / Shutterstock.com

They live entirely off the land. Why the women and children forage for plants, honey and berries, the men hunt animals armed with bows and arrows made from strips of antelope or buffalo ligament and with the arrowhead dipped in a plant poison. Excursions to meet the Hadzabe reveal an ancient, fragile and fascinating way of life that is almost unique in the world.

3. Landscapes

From coastal mangrove swamps to tropical rain forests and from rolling savannas and high arid plateaus to volcanoes and mountain ranges, and all bounded to the west by the immense faults of the Great Rift Valley."

Tanzania’s landscapes are as diverse as its people. From coastal mangrove swamps to tropical rain forests and from rolling savannas and high arid plateaus to volcanoes and mountain ranges, and all bounded to the west by the immense faults of the Great Rift Valley. Hike to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, or take to the trails of the lush forest of the Usambara Mountains. Alternatively take a boat trip at sunset on the croc-filled Rufiji River in Nyerere National Park or catch the daybreak from the top of active volcano Ol Doinyo Longo after a guided night climb.

4. Experiences

Safaris don’t begin and end with 4x4s. There are a plenty of other transport options available that give you a new perspective on Tanzania’s natural riches. Walking safaris make you a participant in the world of wildlife rather than a spectator. It’s a thrilling experience and even better if you can hire a local Maasai guide and learn the art of tracking at the same time. Another opportunity to get close to wildlife is heading out on a

canoe safari on the Momella lakes in Arusha National Park with the chance to see buffalo, giraffes, waterbucks and many different species of birds up close. In addition, you have spectacular views of the Kilimanjaro and Meru mountains. Hot-air balloon rides offer an unforgettable safari perspective. Daybreak flights at three sites in the Serengeti present the chance to see sights such as the Great Migration in all their panoramic majesty. Cycling safaris are another option. You can book a multi-day tour with accommodation, hire mountain bikes in Moshi and take on the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro or get an insight into city life riding around Dar es Salaam.

You could also volunteer your enthusiasm and expertise to a conservation project, contributing to Tanzania’s future. Projects Abroad and Volunteer Solutions offers a variety of programmes in Arusha, Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam, while The Great Projects offers internments to swim with whale sharks and gain valuable skills in both marine conservation and the tourism industry.

5. Lifestyle

A trip to Tanzania brings the opportunity to slow down and embrace a simpler way of life. Food tours in Zanzibar will reveal the wealth of locally grown ingredients sold at markets and you’ll learn how to prepare – and taste – local delicacies. From Maasai jewellery to the masks of the Makonde there will also be chances to learn the art of traditional crafts. Mingle with welcoming locals and experience the warmth of Tanzanian hospitality. This ‘New Big 5’ offers a deeper understanding of Tanzania, its soul, and its people. It is a chance to connect with nature, immerse yourself in culture, and create memories that will last a lifetime.

Record breaking ascents of Mt Kilimanjaro

Close to half a million people have made it to the summit of Mt Kilimanjaro so if you want to be the first in some capacity you need to do something quite spectacular. Here are some world records –from the brave to the bonkers – set on Africa’s highest peak.

THE FASTEST ASCENT…

Depending on the route taken, most climbers reach Uhuru Peak – at 5,895 metres, Mt Kilimanjaro’s highest point – and get back down again in between five and seven days. Altitude sickness is a genuine and potentially serious risk, local guides remind novice climbers to take it ‘pole, pole’ – ‘slowly, slowly’ in Swahili – but there are those climbers whose mantra is ‘haraka, haraka’ (‘quickly, quickly’). Take for example ‘Iceman’ Wim Hoff.

The daredevil Dutchman, who has become a global wellness phenomenon through his patented power breathing technique, has 26 world records to his name, including running a full marathon above the Arctic circle wearing only a pair of shorts. He added a pair of trainers to his minimal dress code when he ran up Mt Kilimanjaro in 2015, reaching the top in 31 hours and 25 minutes with the bare-chested Hoff untroubled by hypothermia or altitude sickness.

This is an impressive feat, but

it still falls some way short of Spanish mountain runner Killian Jornet, who in 2010 at just 22 years of age, got to Uhuru Peak in 5 hours, 23 minutes and 50 seconds.

In July 2015 Anne-Marie Flammersfeld, a 37-year-old German, set a new record for the fastest ascent and descent by a woman on Kilimanjaro, climbing to the summit via the Umbwe Route in a time of 8 hours, 32 minutes before making it back to Mweka gate for a total time on the mountain of 12 hours, 58 minutes.

THE FASTEST TANZANIANS TO THE TOP…

The record for fastest “unaided” ascent

(meaning that the climber carried all his own equipment, food, water etc) has been held since 2006 by Tanzanian Simon Mtuy, who climbed from Umbwe Gate to the summit and back in 9 hours, 19 minutes back.

However, the fastest up and down time is held by Tanzanian athlete Gaudence Lekula, who in 2017 finished in 8 hours, 36 seconds.

FROM TANGA TO THE TOP…

Lekula again. Obviously not satisfied with just one record, the by-now37-year-old, last year ran from his hometown of Tanga on Tanzania’s northern coast to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro. In August he covered the 478 kilometres in 65 hours, having trained for five years to get in record-breaking shape.

OLDEST CLIMBER TO SUMMIT…

Age is no barrier.

Anne Lorimar was 89 years and 37 days old when she reached Uhuru Peak in 2019, making her the oldest person to summit. It was her second successful summit, having become the oldest woman on her first ascent in 2014.

RECORD BREAKERS

HIGHEST ALTITUDE PIZZA DELIVERY…

Kilimanjaro climbing groups refuel with porridge, pasta and potatoes over a fire, but the opening of Tanzania’s first Pizza Hut in 2016 called for another carb hit as commemoration. The global fast-food chain arranged for a pizza to be delivered to the summit of Kilimanjaro between May 5 and 8. That’s well outside Pizza Hut’s usual 30-minute speed guarantee. More fast food at altitude action was recorded on Kilimanjaro in October 2022 when a vacuum-sealed vegan burger from UK chain Honest Burgers became the world’s highest-altitude burger delivery.

YOUNGEST CLIMBER…

The Tanzania National Parks Authority stipulates that children under the age of 10 are often not allowed to climb over 3,100 metres up Mt Kilimanjaro. But in August this year Serbian five-year-old Ognjen Živković broke the rules and a world record when he made it to the top. Actually, Ognjen’s father, an experienced mountain climber had secured special authorisation for his son’s attempt, and it paid off big time.

WITH US TO KILIMANJARO

Daily from Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar from December 2024.

To book, visit flightlink. co.tz/en

THE HIGHEST CRICKET MATCH…

In September 2014, a group of international cricketers hiked to Uhuru Peak then set the record for the highest-ever cricket match, playing a ten over game at a height of 5,730 metres in a flat crater just below the summit. Players included former South Africa fast bowler Makhaya Ntini and ex-England spinner Ashley Giles. Halfway through their Twenty20 game clouds stopped play.

FLY

CARRYING A KITCHEN APPLIANCE…

Mt Kilimanjaro porters are quite something. It’s not unusual to see them water in one hand, cooker in another, a rucksack on the back topped off with a picnic table balanced on the head. It makes for tough going, but at least the equipment they are laden with will prove useful on the trek. The same cannot be said for the cargo Enda O’Doherty took to the summit in 2017. The Irish geography teacher entered the record books as the first man to climb Kilimanjaro with a washing machine strapped to his back. The 40kg load was carried as symbol of the burden of mental health issues with the trek raising money for a crisis counselling service in the UK. Another kitchen appliance made it to Uhuru Peak last November when Michael Copeland made the ascent with a fridge strapped to his back. The soldier-turned-bodybuilder has previous experience of wild white goods adventures having completed the Three Peaks Challenge in the UK under 24 hours while carrying a fridge to raise money for mental health charity MIND.

FASTEST TIME TO WALK UP MT

KILIMANJARO BACKWARDS…

If you are racking your brain for how you can get on the Mt Kilimanjaro record-list, maybe you need to shift your thinking 180 degrees. Nepalese mountaineer Sanjay Pandit walked backward to Africa’s highest point on December 18, 2015, clocking in at 24 hours and 40 minutes. Even if that record seems out of reach, walking backwards up hills is excellent for knee health, but make sure you are climbing with a team to guide you.

HIGHEST HARP CONCERT

The harp has an almost celestial sound, but the stringed instrument can rarely have sounded as heavenly as when it was played on the top of Mt Kilimanjaro in July last year by Irish harpist Siobhán Brady. As Siobhán began the highest harp performance ever recorded the clouds parted and she was bathed in sunlight. In performing the 20-minute concert, with songs including a traditional Tanzanian jig, Siobhán broke her own record set in 2018 at the 4,045-metre Singla Pass, in Nepal.

THE HIGHEST DJ SET…

In March last year Tanzanian Joseph Simon Misa – better known as DJ Joozey – broke the record for the highest ever DJ set by playing a 15-minute concert at the top of Mt Kilimanjaro. The 27-year-old artist started his set with the Tanzanian national anthem before dropping some singeli – Dar es Salaam’s frenetic urban dance music – to celebrate the landmark moment and his love for his country. The record-breaking moment took Joozey’s growing musical renown – he has performed across East Africa and in the Middle East and was among the guest stars on DJ Khaled’s 2022 album, ‘Khaled, Khaled’ – to new heights.

5 DAR ES SALAAM NEIGHBOURHOODS TO SEEK OUT

FOR A LOCAL’S

EXPERIENCE

Tanzania’s commercial capital is a sprawling modern megapolis. However, it is not just one big city, but a collection of unique neighbourhoods. Here, Zebra Stripes selects five unmissable locales that each reveal the depth of Dar. >>>

Masaki

If Dar was Los Angeles, this area would be its Beverly Hills. This exclusive enclave is tucked away at the tip of the Msasani Peninsula to the north-west of the city. The opening in 2022 of the Tanzanite Bridge cuts commute times in half between Masaki and the city centre. Leaving the clamour of downtown for Masaki’s calm coastal charm is a chance to take a breath. The traffic thins, the vegetation lushens, the palatial homes of diplomats and monied expats flank the streets and the sapphire ocean waters surround everything.

MUST-SEE: Perched at the rocky tip of the peninsula is the five-star Sea Cliff hotel. Its all-day restaurant Karambezi Café has food and views to die for while you’ll also find a casino and a string of fashionable boutiques.

Oyster Bay

Another affluent suburb that forms a conduit between the peninsula and the city centre. Its beating heart is the Haile Selassie Road that at night forms

a never-ending neon-lit strip of restaurants, bars and nightclubs.

MUST-SEE: Haile Selassie Road is also where you’ll find the Tinga Tinga studio and gallery. This arts co-operative founded in the 1960s is renowned for its colourful, almost cartoon-like paintings of wildlife and local scenes. Tourists love them.

Msasani Bay

The coastline fringing the tranquil waters of Msasani Bay has been prime real estate in the city for some time with a host of touristfriendly luxury hotels, a yacht club and the hugely popular shopping centre The Slipway grabbing the best views of the incredible

Leaving the clamour of downtown for Masaki’s calm coastal charm is a chance to take a breath."

sunsets that are a feature here. Recently, though, the area has seen the emergence of a vibrant food and nightlife scene that targets upwardly mobile locals as much as visitors to the city.

MUST-SEE: Delineated by neon red lights at night, the Box is an easily recognisable building on the bay. It’s worth a visit. In a city with a wealth of amazing seafood restaurants the first among equals may be The Fishmonger on the Box’s top floor. Then in the basement there is The Punchline, Tanzania’s first dedicated stand-up venue. You can combine the two and get your meal delivered to your table while taking in the cream of the city’s comedy talent.

Dar fishermen bring their catch ashore

Pic credit: Andy Soloman / Shutterstock.com

Mikocheni

This predominantly commercial area has been gentrified of late with a slew of middle-class Tanzanians buying homes here. New bars, restaurants and shops have popped up to meet the demands of the new residents. The food scene is especially good if you want to sample local cuisine. Traffic can be a problem, especially around the old Bagamoyo Road, which is reliably chock-a-block with cars at rush hour.

MUST-SEE: Nafasi Arts Space is a creative centre supporting some of the most promising African musicians, artists and stage performers. It’s also a fantastic place to experience

art exhibitions, film screenings, theatre and live music. The festival Wikiendi Live, held every September, showcases live music from African artists over two unforgettable days.

Kariakoo

This bustling area is ideal if you want to get a feel for Dar’s downtown commercial district. Life here revolves around the beyond busy Kariakoo market at its centre, which teems with life from dawn to dusk seven days a week. You can buy just about anything you need here – and plenty you don’t – from fresh fruit, spices and vegetables to clothes, handicrafts and even spare car parts. Kariakoo’s

Two flights every day from Zanzibar, two flights each day from Pemba, three daily flights from Arusha, two daily flights from Serengeti, three flights a week from Mombasa To book, visit flightlink. co.tz/en

history dates back to the beginnings of Dar es Salaam in the late 19th century when the first Sultan of Zanzibar, Sayyid Majid bin Saïd, set up a huge coconut plantation here as part of his plans to expand the Sultanate to the mainland.

MUST-SEE: Of course, you have to experience the market. The sheer size of it and the crowds it attracts can be intimidating for first-time visitors so a guided tour – of which there are many – may be advisable. If you need to escape the bustle, the nearby Mnazi Mjoja park is a welcome spot of leafy solace. The park is home to the Uhuru Monument, which honours Tanzania gaining independence in 1961.

FLY WITH US TO DAR ES SALAAM

The Link Connecting places

Zebra Stripes takes a flight of fancy to connect the dots between Flightlink destinations.

Mwanza

Fishing is a major source of livelihoods in Mwanza with around 1.5 million tonnes of fish landed from Lake Victoria each year. The lake’s bounty is celebrated with a statue of a giant tilapia at a roundabout in the city centre that has become known as Samaki (Swahili for ‘fish’) Corner.

Zanzibar Island

A sweet street food classic on Zanzibar is ubuyo. The sweetened, dyed baobab seeds are munched as a local treat. Everyone will know if you do give it a try with your red-stained tongue, lips and fingertips giving the game away.

Dar es Salaam

Another landmark statue in Tanzania is the Askari Monument in Kivukoni, Dar es Salaam. It was unveiled in 1927 as a memorial to the African soldiers who fought in the British campaign against the German Army in East Africa in World War I so it is coming up on its 100th anniversary.

Mombasa

If you are after a lip-smacking fruit treat in Mombasa, try some bungo. It has a sweetsour edible pulp and lots of seeds so it is usually enjoyed in a refreshing juice. It’s a street-food favourite so give it a go.

Arusha

The Askari Monument was carved out of bronze, which was the medal Tanzanian athlete Alphonce Simbu won at the 2017 World Athletics Championships, when he finished in third place in the marathon in a time of 2 hours, nine minutes and 51 seconds. Simbu was born in Singida, but he based himself in Arusha where the running at altitude primed him for a string of international successes.

Pemba

The fig is a nutrition staple for endurance athletes as it combines the ideal mix of carbs and fibre to provide steady, consistent energy. Fig fans include the Pemba flying fox – a massive, tawny-coloured bat endemic to the island – that emerge from upside-down slumber in the evenings to forage for the fruit.

Serengeti

East Africa is home to other marathons. One of the most spectacular is the Serengeti Safari Marathon, which is the only race of its kind that takes place in a national park. First-timers and more experienced runners are invited to book a place in the November 16 event.

Sebastian Castelier / Shutterstock.com

What’s new at Flightlink

Take a look at the latest goings-on across our

airline

New-look crew

Flightlink has unveiled a new uniform to take the airline into its next chapter. The new garments represent our brand and will be worn by all our pilots and cabin crew.

Flying to the lakes and the peaks

In December, Flightlink will be launching daily flights to Kilimanjaro and Mwanza. Kilimanjaro International Airport lies on the plains to the south of Mt Kilimanjaro, the world’s tallest freestanding mountain. Flights will connect passengers to the beginning of their trekking adventures. Tanzania’s second city, Mwanza, is the launch place for boat trips on Lake Victoria as well as safaris in the Serengeti’s Western Corridor.

New aircraft on its way

Flightlink will soon be welcoming the arrival of a new ATR-72. The new aircraft will become the third of the 72-seater twin-engine turboprop aircraft in our fleet.

More snack choice

We have revamped our onboard snack selection. Now there is more choice for passengers, including four new flavours of Maua ice-cream, proudly made in Tanzania. Visit flightlink.co.tz for more details.

Last issue's quiz winner Mrs Zainab S Punja

Congratulations for answering all of the questions correctly and thank you for flying with Flightlink

Last issue's quiz winner Elly Makando

Congratulations for answering all of the questions correctly and thank you for flying with Flightlink Zainab says:

“The flight was comfortable and enjoyable and the Maua Icecream was the cherry on top. Thank you.”

Elly says:

“It was my first time on Flightlink but definitely it was a great start of many more flights to come, excellent service indeed.”

Earn your stripes Flightlink quiz

Take on our challenging quiz

We know our Flightlink customers are smart – after all, you chose to fly with us – but just how smart? Well, here’s the test:

10 questions to occupy your minds while you fly. If you know all the answers, that’s impressive, but don’t despair if you don’t because you’ll find them all within the stories in this issue of Zebra Stripes.

Once you’ve got your 10 answers, email them to competition@landmarine.org along with a picture of yourself on your flight and a few words on your Flightlink experience and you may find yourself in the next issue of Zebra Stripes (we’ll contact you ahead of time so you don’t miss out on your moment of fame).

Here are the questions! Bahati njema! (good luck!)

1 In which Tanzanian wildlife management area does the Great Migration begin?

2 Mwanza’s coastline of massive boulders has earned it what nickname?

5 What is the name of Dar es Salaam’s busy central market?

3

Which national park has the highest number of lions?

4 What is the oldest building in Stone Town?

6 How many eco-zones do you pass through on a climb to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro?

7

7. Which two cities does the first phase of the SGR connect?

8

What is the name of the Tanzanian people thought to one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer tribes?

9

Which Kenyan location has been voted Africa’s Best Beach at the World Travel Awards a record five times?

0

Which two new destinations has Flightlink recently added to its network?

Our destinations

The Flightlink network

Our growing network includes eight Tanzanian destinations and is now international with the recent additions of Mombasa and Nairobi (planned) in Kenya. Here’s

a brief guide to each to help

you plan your next trip with Flightlink.

Dar es Salaam

Dar es Salaam (meaning ‘city of peace’ in Arabic) is Tanzania’s largest city and its commercial capital. Dar is the third fastest growing city in Africa and home to a thriving arts, music and food culture. It is also a coastal city with beautiful beaches, including Coco Beach, which is known for wealth of beach bars and nightclubs. Soak up the city's bustle at its markets. Kariakoo Market is the pulse of the city's traditional commerce with fresh fruit, vegetables and spices, second-hand clothes and bargains galore. Make an early start to catch the fishermen laden with the night's catch at Kivukoni Fish Market on the waterfront. It's a great place to see daily life and enjoy seafood. For a morer tranquil shopping experience head to The Slipway shopping centre overlooking Msasani Bay.

Zanzibar

Zanzibar is an archipelago of more than 47 islands off the east coast of Tanzania. Unguja (also known as Zanzibar Island)‚ Pemba and Mafia are the main islands and attract visitors from all over the world. The islands are known for their rich history, spectacular beaches and diverse marine life. Ungujais just a 20-minute flight from Dar es Salaam and is famous for its

historic port Stone Town, which is home to a cosmopolitan community shaped by centuries of trade with the Middle East, Europe and Africa, The island is ringed with coral reefs with diverse marine life. An incredible underwater world awaits divers here while kitesurfers will love the idyllic conditions of the south-east coast.

Arusha

Arusha in northern Tanzania is the gateway to the world-famous national parks of the ‘Northern Safari Circuit’. It is also the place from where hikers set off to ascend Mount Kilimanjaro. Getting to the top of ‘Kili’, as Africa’s highest peak is affectionately called, is a bucket-list experience for climbers the world over. With close to 760,000 inhabitants‚ Arusha region is one of the most developed in Tanzania‚ not only due to its tourism infrastructure‚ its business community‚ but also because the city serves as home to the diplomatically important East African Community.

Seronera (Serengeti)

One of Africa’s seven natural wonders, the Serengeti National Park covers an area of over 30,000 sq km and boasts massive wildlife populations, including the Big Five. It is best known for its Great Migration in which millions-strong herds of wildebeest, zebra and antelope move from the Ngorongoro region in the south east‚ westwards into the Serengeti and then north over the border into the Masai Mara and back again in a cyclical search for green pastures to feed on. Lying in wait on this perilous journey are predators including around 4,000 lions.

The 'green island' of Pemba is renowned for its pristine beaches

Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's commercial capital

Kehinde Temitope Odutayo / Shutterstock.com

www.flightlink.co.tz

Pemba

Pemba‚ often referred to as ‘The Green Island’, is part of the Zanzibar archipelago‚ and is renowned for its lush‚ tropical landscapes‚ including dense forests‚ spice plantations‚ and pristine beaches. The island offers a quieter‚ more authentic experience compared to its larger, more developed Zanzibar Island. Visitors can explore historic ruins‚ vibrant markets‚ and traditional Swahili culture. Pemba is famous for its thriving spice trade‚ particularly cloves. Diving and snorkeling enthusiasts are drawn to the crystal-clear waters surrounding Pemba‚ which host a diverse marine ecosystem‚ including coral reefs.

Kilimanjaro

At 4,985 metres, Mt Kilimanjaro is the highest point in Africa. A guided trek to the top is a bucket-list adventure for hikers worldwide. If you have neither the time nor the inclination for such a challenging endeavour,

the mountain’s lower slopes in Kilimanjaro National Park can be explored on day hikes or bike rides. You’ll discover spectacular biodiversity, wildlife such as elephant, giraffe buffalo as well as a chance to integrate with tribes such as the Chagga and Maasai that call this area home.

Mombasa

Kenya’s oldest city and second largest after Nairobi is the gateway to the magnificent beaches of southern Kenya and the Mombasa National Marine Park. Nearby beaches such as Kilifi‚ Watamu and Diani are among the most beautiful of the East Africa coastline. The cosmopolitan Old Town is a rewarding destination for a walk.

Mwanza

Tanzania’s second city occupies a dramatic section of Lake Victoria’s southern shore with the surrounding hills scattered with gigantic boulders. The busy port is the centre of

much of the commerce here and is also the launching pad for boat trips to islands in the lake, including the wildlife-filled Rubondo National Island Park. For more animal adventures, a 90-minute drive will get you to the Western Corridor of Serengeti National Park renowned for its biodiversity and for hosting the Grumeti River crossing, one of the most dramatic stages of the Great Migration.

Nairobi (planned)

Nairobi‚ the capital and largest city of Kenya‚ is a dynamic metropolis. It serves as the political‚ economic‚ and cultural centre of Kenya‚ and it's known as the Green City in the Sun due to its pleasant climate and lush greenery. It boasts a mix of modern skyscrapers and colonial-era architecture. It is the only capital city in the world with a national park in it wher wildlife roam against a backdrop of the city’s spectacular skyline.

Tanzania's second city Mwanza is a launch pad for adventures on Lake Victoria Image: KKFilms _ Shutterstock.com

Connecting you to Tanzania and beyond

SERENGETI

Serengeti

Current Destinations (Routes)

Serengeti Airsrips

Fort Ikoma, Kogatende, Seronera, Loliondo, Tarangire, Lobo, Ndutu, Grumeti

New Routes

Coming soon

Nairobi airports

Jomo Kenyat International Airport

Wilson International Airport

Pemba

Momba

Kilimanjaro

Our Fleet Information

Discover the hidden gems of Tanzania with the comfort and efficiency of our ATR72-500

ATR72-500 Twin Engine

Turbo Prop Aircraft

Embark on a seamless journey through Tanzania’s breathtaking landscapes aboard our twin engine turbo prop ATR72-500 aircraft. Flightlink operates three ATR72-500 in our fleet. This fuel-efficient, spacious, and comfortable twin-engine turboprop aircraft is perfectly suited for exploring the country’s diverse tourist and business destinations.

With a strong safety record

and a design optimized for short runways, you can confidently reach even the most remote corners of Tanzania. Our commitment to safety is unwavering, with rigorous crew training and meticulous aircraft maintenance adhering to the highest standards.

Relax in our single-class economy cabin, featuring a welcoming and spacious

Experience our Bushrover!

Cessna Grand Caravan 208B G1000

The Cessna Grand Caravan 208B is more than just an aircraft; it’s a rugged explorer, engineered to conquer the vast plains of Serengeti and the Maasai Land.

Flightlink operates two Cessna Grand Caravans in our fleet. The aircraft’s exceptional performance allows it

layout with seats arranged in pairs. Enjoy a smooth and quiet flight, knowing you're contributing to a greener future with our aircraft's low emissions and reduced environmental impact.

Choose ATR72-500 for a safe, comfortable, and sustainable travel experience in Tanzania with Flightlink.

to operate seamlessly from all major airstrips within the Serengeti, including Seronera, Fort Ikoma, Kogatende, Sasakwa, Ndutu, Lobo, and Lake Manyara.

Renowned for its safety record, the Grand Caravan boasts reliable turbo prop engines, impressive fuel efficiency, and extended range, making it the preferred choice

for efficient and comfortable safaris. Its robust design and quick turnaround capabilities ensure minimal disruptions to your adventure.

Cessna Grand Caravans have spacious cabins with ample legroom and large windows provide passengers with unparalleled comfort and unobstructed views of the savannah and its wildlife.

ATR72-500

Number in fleet: Two

Twin-engine turboprop aircraft

Mezzanine Floor Room 002‚ Oyster Pearl Galleria‚ Chole Road Masaki‚ PO Box 2858, Dar es Salaam‚ Tanzania

Email: customerservice@flightlink.co.tz

Dar es Salaam

24/7: +255 782 354 450

HQ: +255 22 211 2993

Airport: +255 782 354 448/9

Email: sales@flightlink.co.tz

Email: reservations@flightlink.co.tz

Email: dar-reservations@flightlink.co.tz

Cessna Grand Caravan G1000 Number in fleet: Two

Travel Information

Reasons to fly with us

About us

Established in 2001, Flightlink is a Tanzanian-owned airline, fully licensed and certified to operate in both Tanzania and Kenya. Our core objective is to facilitate convenient travel, bridging the gap between major international airlines and domestic or safari destinations within Tanzania.

Principles

At the heart of our operations are three key principles: safety, punctuality, and exceptional customer service. We are deeply committed to upholding stringent safety standards, ensuring that our passengers reach their destinations both safely and on schedule. Our focus on quality service aims to make every journey with us a memorable experience.

Our Mission

Our Mission is to provide our passengers with travel experiences that meet the highest standards of safety, punctuality, and outstanding service.

Our Vision

Our Vision is to establish Flightlink as the safest and most reliable airline in the East African region.

Safety standards

Safety Standards are one of Flightlink’s core values‚ and it is the heartbeat of our operations. We are committed to maintaining and improving high levels of safety‚ and to nurturing a safety culture throughout our operations. Our operations conform with EASA‚ FAA‚ ICAO and TCAA standards with strict periodic safety oversights by TCAA.

Flightlink has earned its reputation for operating most environmental and fuel efficient regional aircrafts (ATR72-500‚ Twin Engine Turbo Prop) with generous stand up cabin space whose result are comfort and safety that translate into our success story and market share.

Our Safety Management System (SMS) is guided by International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) standards and its recommended practices. It fully meets and approved by the regulatory requirements of the Tanzania Civil Aviation Authority (TCAA).

The larger ATR72500 has a stand up pressurized cabin, 2 pilots with 2 cabin crew

1 pc of 20Kg check in baggage allowance free of charge

5Kg hand baggage allowance

Free on board snacks & drinks on selected routes

Book, pay and check in online with our Flightlink App

Accept payment is all major currencies and cards

LIPA number and mobile payment accepted

Convenient and timely connections to the tourism circuits

Safe, reliable and on-time performance

Flightlink App (iOS and Android) guaranteed 5% discount