Lao Sky: January / February / March 2025

Page 10


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JANUARY ∙ FEBRUARY ∙ MARCH 2025

DISCOVERY

Blessing the Year at Wat Phou

SPOTLIGHT

Laos’ Mission to go Global with Larb

CULTURE

The Phi Khon Festival

Dear Passengers,

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Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Skyway. From all of us at Lao Skyway, we want to wish you a happy and safe 2025.

We are deeply committed to our high standard of service and take pride that we fly to more routes in Laos than any other airline. Lao Skyway works tirelessly to ensure that all of our flights are safe, comfortable, and hygienic for every passenger. Please download the Lao Skyway mobile application and try our customer service hotline at 1441 for all of your future reservations. We also have many sales offices throughout the country ready to make your journey a reality.

With the highest respect and warm regards, Panthavy Sisongkham Managing Director

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COVER IMAGE

Laos’ Mission to Go Global With Larb/Goy by Phoonsab Thevongsa

ADVISORY BOARD

Panthavy Sisongkham Chief Executive Officer

Sonetysack Mylakong Administration Director

Onta Phompanya Lao Skyway Industry Director

Khamla Phomsichanh Lao Skyway Director LAO SKYWAY

Head office: Asean Road, Ban Akard, Sikhottabong District, Vientiane Capital, Lao P.D.R, P.O Box 6618 (856)21 512 027 (856)21 513 022 info@laoskyway.com, service@laoskyway.com

www.facebook.com/laoskyway

Dear Readers,

Welcome to Lao Sky, the inflight magazine of Lao Skyway, and best wishes for a happy and prosperous 2025!

In this issue, take a deep dive into one of Laos’ most popular dishes: laap.

Head to Sayaboury for the annual Elephant Festival to honor these great creatures. Stick around for the Phi Khon Masked Ghost Festival that is celebrated in various locations throughout the province.

UNESCO has recognized several sites and intangible cultural heritage in Laos. Try to experience them all!

In Champasak, Wat Phou Festival gears up in mid-February. Visit Southern Laos’ largest event, make merit, and have fun!

Thanks for being onboard, The Lao Sky team

PUBLISHING

Group Editor-in-Chief

Editor

Contributing Editors

Creative Director

Contributing Writers

Jason Rolan

Vannaleth Phimphachanh

Vilavanh Chanthavong

Dokfa Malaithong

Sandy Patoumvanh

FOR YOUR ADVERTISING CONTACT US

sales@rdkgroup.la (856-20) 59596621

RDK GROUP

134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 | info@rdkgroup.la

Blessing the Year at Wat Phou

Words by Jason Rolan
Images by Jason Rolan and Phoonsab Thevongsa

The real adventure begins with a climb. Six terraces beckon you upward, each one a delicious surprise hidden from view until you’re practically on top of it. Ancient stone staircases wind their way up, punctuated by gnarled frangipani trees that have witnessed centuries of footsteps. Pro traveler tip: wear comfortable shoes and pack your sense of wonder.

But if you think Wat Phou is just another quiet historical site, think again. Come February, during the Makha Bouxa festival, this place erupts into a riot of color and sound that would make even the most seasoned traveler’s head spin. Thousands of locals descend on the site for three days of pure cultural spectacle.

Picture this: traditional drum competitions thundering across the ancient stones, beauty pageants that would put Hollywood to shame, and music concerts that blend ancient rhythms with contemporary beats. Children revel in the amusement rides and midway games.

Imagine a temple complex so magical that ancient Khmer rulers were compelled to build an entire city around its mystical mountain backdrop. Welcome to Wat Phou, a UNESCO World Heritage site that’s less trampled than Angkor Wat but no less breathtaking.

Perched dramatically beneath a mountain that seems to have been sculpted by the gods themselves, Wat Phou has been drawing pilgrims and travelers for over a thousand years. And trust me, one glimpse and you’ll understand why. The approach is nothing short of theatrical – two massive stone structures greet you at the base, likely once serving as rest stops for weary travelers on the legendary Angkor Road.

Left: Worshippers pray during the Wat Phou Festival

1: The grounds of Wat Phou are decorated with lights during the festival CAPTIONS

Local markets overflow with handicrafts, and dancers bring centuries-old stories to life with movements so fluid they seem to defy gravity.

As twilight falls on the full moon day, something truly magical happens. A candlelit procession winds its way up the causeway – monks, officials, and locals moving as one, their soft chants a blessing for the coming year. It’s the kind of moment that makes you put down your camera and just... breathe.

For the curious traveler, Wat Phou offers more than just Instagram-worthy views. It’s a living, breathing narrative of Lao culture, where history isn’t something trapped behind glass, but a vibrant, ongoing conversation.

Wat Phou Festival runs from 10-12 February 2025

GETTING

THERE

Lao Skyway flies from Vientiane to Pakse twice per week. Wat Phou lies about 50km away in Champasak.

CAPTIONS

1: Floating lanterns add to the excitement of the festival

2: Cultural performances enchant the audience

3: Women light their offerings of incense and candles

4: Spectators livestream the performances for friends who could not attend

Around the world, people are enamored by the Asian dish, larb, a trend exemplified by pop culture moments like Aunt May’s playful “I Larb You” restaurant scene in Marvel’s Spiderman: Homecoming. But not many people know that larb holds an origin and deep cultural significance in Laos, where it is celebrated as an unofficial national dish.

While it has yet to achieve UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status, efforts are already underway to change that, led by Dalaphone Pholsena, owner of Vientiane’s renowned Lao food restaurant, Kualao. This makes perfect sense, as larb is undeniably one of Laos’ most prized culinary treasures, and would position it globally alongside other Lao cultural treasures like Lamvonglao, Khaen music, and Naga motif weaving, that have already received the UNESCO ICH distinction.

At its core, larb is a minced meat salad, seasoned with lime juice, fish sauce, and an array of ingredients like toasted sticky rice powder, chilies and fresh herbs. This simple yet sophisticated combination produces a medley of umami, sour, spicy, salty, and bitter flavors that are deeply satisfying. It’s usually paired with sticky rice and a variety of fresh vegetables. For generations, it has been a centerpiece of Lao celebrations, bringing people together at weddings, family gatherings, and other special occasions.

Words by Sandy Patoumvanh Image by Phoonsab Thevongsa

In Laos, larb is celebrated for its versatility. Nearly any protein can be “larb-ed,” from household staples like pork, chicken, and fish to adventurous options like rabbit, venison, or even river weed for vegetarians. No matter the choice of meat, or lack thereof, larb is almost always accompanied by sticky rice and a spread of fresh, crunchy vegetables like longbeans, cucumber, and other greens that are in season and readily available in that particular geographical area. This variety in vegetation reflects Laos’ biodiverse nature and has been part of the foraging culture and cuisine for generations.

“For me, larb is not just a dish. Eating larb is a communal affair—no one enjoys it alone. We use larb to welcome visitors and wish them well, so much so that the word itself has become part of our blessings. In Lao, we say

, which means ‘to eat for luck and for larb.’ This is a pleonasm that equates larb with luck, and that’s such a beautiful thing. Yes, it tastes amazing, but it tastes so much better when we understand its deeper meaning. I want to share this culture with the world,” says Dalaphone proudly.

Dalaphone and Kualao’s passion for Lao cuisine extends beyond the restaurant. For over 20 years, the first generation owners have spearheaded the organization of the popular Lao Food Festival in collaboration with the Lao Business

Eating larb is a communal affair no one enjoys it alone. We use larb to welcome visitors and wish them well, so much so that the word itself has become part of our blessings.

Women’s Association. Held every January, this vibrant event brings together chefs and home cooks from all 18 provinces to celebrate Laos’ rich culinary heritage.

The Lao Food Festival is the only event of the year where locals, expats, and tourists alike have the rare opportunity to sample literally all of Laos’ regional dishes in one place.

For Dalaphone, securing UNESCO recognition for larb is just the beginning of a broader mission to ensure Lao cuisine receives the attention and respect it deserves, both at home and abroad.

Ant Egg Salad:

The Wild Card

While larb holds the crown as Laos’ most beloved dish, its versatility extends to unique variations like ant egg salad (koi khai mot), a type of larb that showcases the creativity of Lao cuisine. This seasonal specialty features the delicate eggs of red ants, mixed with lime juice, fresh vegetables, and fish sauce to create a dish that is creamy, tangy, and irresistibly crunchy.

Once a rural staple, this larb variation has found its way into urban dining, where it’s often considered a delicacy. “The Economist called it ‘jungle caviar,’ but to me, it’s something many Lao people, regardless of their background, enjoy,” says Dalaphone. For adventurous eaters, ant egg salad offers an authentic and exciting spin on the classic larb tradition.

ແຫ່່ຜໂຂນ

alking along the local thoroughfare, I pause briefly to photograph the large orange bridge - a keepsake to remind me of my adventure to Paklay District in Sayaboury Province, where this unique traditional ghost festival is held. Upon reaching the town, I’m struck by the excitement of the preparations taking place. Food stalls line the streets alongside vendors selling festival paraphernalia and children’s toys, while Lao traditional music and dance performances add to the vibrant atmosphere.

THE PHI KHON FESTIVAL

As I wander through the festivities, the sound of bells resonates all around, and I spot boys and teenagers wearing “little ghost” masks. In the days leading up to the carnival, they run through the roads and alleys, playfully trying to spook girls and other villagers. By afternoon, I discover several affordable guesthouses in downtown Paklay near the festival sites, which would be convenient for any interested visitors.

At 8 AM, people from numerous villages gather to commence the Paklay Ghost Festival. The crowd includes students, representatives from the Lao People’s Revolutionary Youth Union, civil servants, soldiers, police, various ethnic groups, and festival organizers. The parade’s main attractions are the huge ghost faces - between ten and thirty appear each year. After the initial ceremonies, people rush to

CAPTIONS

1: The large ghost masks hover over the crowd

2: Police also participate in the parade

3: Villagers make their own masks and each is slightly different

4: Mask styles vary by location. This is a mask from Dan Sai, Thailand.

5: The parade is ready to begin

6: Beauty pageants also feature in the festival

take selfies with these impressive figures as if they were celebrities.

The afternoon ceremony transforms into a village-wide celebration, with masked revelers throughout. Each house plays music while residents feast and drink, awaiting the parade of ghost faces. People make merit by contributing money to elderly participants holding silver bowls. As the celebration continues, some join the parade in vehicles, while the ghost faces occasionally surprise households by making unexpected appearances before rejoining the procession.

The ghost festival is intertwined with the Boun Phavet festival, which celebrates Prince Vessantara, a previous incarnation of Buddha. The three-day festival includes recitals of his story, inviting his spirit to feast in the city. According to legend, Prince Vessantara renounced his

wealth and possessions to help others before retreating to the forest as a hermit. His courtiers, friends, and protective spirits followed him there, and when his father later summoned him back to the city, these spirits accompanied him to the city gates. This tale led the ancestors of Paklay district to believe these were the spirits of Phi Tam Khon, who followed the people in procession. Over time, this name evolved into the current term, Phi Khon.

The ghost masks reflect ancestral imagination, featuring large heads, long noses, tongues, and ears, paired with common clothing similar to what was worn during the original procession to the city gates. Historically, the ghost teachers would write messages of love on the ears of young men and women before a special tradition involving crafting wooden masks in fields and gardens before bringing them to the procession. While this specific custom no longer exists, people can still create and wear masks, though they must do so without disrespecting others. This ghost procession remains an essential annual tradition, passed down through generations to foster contentment, creativity, and solidarity among the people of Paklay district.

GETTING THERE

Lao Skyways flies from Vientiane Capital to Sayaboury, which is four hours by road from Paklay District.

The Elephant Festival

Words by Jason Rolan Images by Phoonsab Thevongsa

ayaboury is the province with the most elephants. These creatures have been used throughout the centuries in the military and in logging. Battles are no longer waged on elephant back and using elephants to haul timber has mostly been phased out. As a way to say thanks and to honor the historical relationship between Lao people and elephants, Sayaboury holds a bustling Elephant Festival every year in mid-February. This year, the festival runs from 18-24 February.

During the festival, dozens of elephants are paraded, feted, and then honored with a traditional Lao baci ceremony where holy strings are tied around their legs. It’s well worth a visit as this is the only time you can see so many elephants all at once!

long line of elephants in

The Elephant Baci Blessing Ceremony
Beauty pageant contestants ride elephants in the festival
Elephants bathe in the Houng River
A mahout sits proudly on his elephant
Blowing a buffalo horn

(ປັ 2001)

A Walk Through Laos’ World Heritage

Images by Phoonsab Thevongsa

UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity List

Fonelamvonglao (lamvonglao) 2024

One step forward, one step to the left, and so on. Lao traditional dance, or Fonelamvong, is a graceful mix of hand and foot movements that can accompany almost any traditional Lao song. Every Lao child learns it in school and carries that knowledge throughout their life. Fonelamvong is performed at weddings and nearly every celebration. While it has become a common part of modern gatherings, the traditional style of dancing remains an art practiced by a select few.

Traditionally, the dance involves couples of men and women. The man would invite the woman onto the dance floor. Men form an inner circle, while women dance in an outer circle, both moving counterclockwise. The dance follows a cycle of eight movements, repeated throughout the song, with each number guiding the position of the hands and feet.

The dance was inscribed into the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list in late 2024, marking the latest milestone in the country’s cultural heritage preservation efforts.

UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity List Traditional Naga Motif Waving 2023

Only a year before, in 2023, another important Lao tradition was acknowledged— the Naga motif, which was inscribed as part of Laos’ rich cultural fabric.

The Naga, a mythical serpent-like creature, is woven into textiles, representing a deep spiritual connection between the Lao people and the waters that sustain them. Through these designs, often created on traditional looms, the Naga symbolizes both protection and prosperity, and is passed down through generations. These textiles are a key part of Lao life for both daily wear and significant life events, such as weddings and funerals.

UNESCO World Heritage List

Megalithic Jar Sites in Xiengkohuang – Plain of Jars (2019)

But traditions are not the only pieces of cultural heritage of Laos. In 2019, UNESCO inscribed Xiengkhouang’s Plain of Jars in its World Heritage Site list.

The site is a window into the ancient funerary practices of the Iron Age dating back to around from 500 BCE to 500 CE.

Situated on a plateau in Xiengkhouang Province, the site is home to over 2,100 large, tubular megalithic stone jars. This archaeological site consists of 15 components, including 1,325 jars, stone discs, secondary burials, grave markers, quarries, and manufacturing sites. These artifacts provide valuable insight into the social hierarchies and cultural practices of the ancient Iron Age civilization. Located at the intersection of two major cultural systems in Southeast Asia, the Plain of Jars is thought to have been a hub for trade and cultural exchange, with the jar sites strategically placed along overland routes.

While the Plain of Jars gives the community a glimpse into Laos’ ancient past, the country also holds onto traditions that are very much alive and part of its culture today.

One such tradition is the khaen music, a traditional art form that uses a bamboo mouth organ resembling panpipes, producing melodies through varying tube lengths. Khaen music, inscribed into the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity List in 2017, is a big part of life in Laos, especially at village festivals, where everyone joins in with song and dance.

This tradition brings families and communities together, connecting generations and strengthening ties to nature and healthy living.

Just like with the Plain of Jars, local communities, associations, and educational programs are working hard to keep khaen music alive, even as modernization brings new challenges.

UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity List Khaen music of the Lao people 2017

In addition to these intangible and archaeological treasures, Laos’ architectural heritage has also garnered international acclaim. The Vat Phou temple complex and the surrounding Champasak cultural landscape, dating back over 1,000 years, were inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2001.

Designed to reflect the Hindu vision of the connection between humanity and nature, it stretches over 10 km from mountain to river. The site features a series of temples, shrines, and waterworks, as well as two ancient cities along the Mekong River and the nearby Phou Kao mountain. This site, primarily linked to the Khmer Empire, dates back from the 5th to 15th centuries.

Another jewel of Laos’ cultural heritage, and likely the most popular globally, is the town of Luang Prabang, which was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995.

Located at the meeting point of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, Luang Prabang became a global attraction for its traditional Lao architecture and colonial influences. The city’s well-preserved mix of Buddhist temples, colonial-era buildings, and traditional wooden houses are some of the city’s key characteristics.

However, with all these recognitions come challenges in preserving these sites. Tourism, urbanization, and environmental pressures often threaten the balance between development and conservation. Efforts to protect these treasures involve coordinated management at both national and local levels.

From Fonelamvong to the Plain of Jars, Laos has some invaluable cultural gems. UNESCO’s recognition puts a spotlight on the need to keep them alive for future generations.

Vat Phou and Associated Ancient Settlements within the Champasak Cultural Landscape (2001)
Town of Luang Prabang (1995)

350

VIENTIANE – XAYABOULY 01:05 h

VIENTIANE – XIENGKHUANG 01:10 h

VIENTIANE – XAISOMBOUN 00:40 h

VIENTIANE – HOUAPHAN 02:25 h

VIENTIANE – PHONGSALY 02:20 h

VIENTIANE – LUANGNAMTHA 02:05 h

VIENTIANE – OUDOMXAY 01:50 h

VIENTIANE – BORKEO 02:20 h

VIENTIANE – BORLIKHAMXAY 00:40 h

VIENTIANE – KHAMMUON 01:30 h

VIENTIANE – SAVANNAKETH 02:20 h

VIENTIANE – CHAMPASAK 03:20 h

VIENTIANE – SALAVANH 03:50 h

VIENTIANE – SEKONG 03:50 h

VIENTIANE – ATTAPEU 03:55 h

MI-17V1

ROUTES ONE WAY ROUND TRIP

VIENTIANE – VANGVIENG 00:40 h

VIENTIANE – LUANGPRABANG 01:20 h

VIENTIANE – XAYABOULY 01:05 h

VIENTIANE – XIENGKHUANG 01:10 h

VIENTIANE – XAISOMBOUN 00:40 h

VIENTIANE – HOUAPHAN 02:25 h

VIENTIANE – PHONGSALY 02:20 h

VIENTIANE – LUANGNAMTHA 02:05 h

VIENTIANE – OUDOMXAY 01:50 h

VIENTIANE – BORKEO 02:20 h

VIENTIANE – BORLIKHAMXAY 00:40 h

VIENTIANE – KHAMMUON 01:30 h

VIENTIANE – SAVANNAKETH 02:20 h

VIENTIANE – CHAMPASAK 03:20 h

VIENTIANE – SALAVANH 03:50 h

VIENTIANE – SEKONG 03:50 h

VIENTIANE – ATTAPEU 03:55 h

CESSANA 208 GRAND CARAVAN MA-60

VIENTIANE - OUDOMXAY 01:36 h

VIENTIANE - BORKEO 01:25 h

VIENTIANE - TONPHERNG 01:40 h

VIENTIANE - XIENGKHUANG 00:48 h

VIENTIANE - XAYABOULY 00:45 h

VIENTIANE - SAVANNAKETH 01:42 h

VIENTIANE - CHAMPASAK 02:20 h 01:30 h 01:36 h 03:12 h 02:50 h 03:20 h 03:24 h 04:40 h

h

h

h

h 07:40 h 07:50 h

VIENTIANE – LUANGNAMTHA 00:55 h

VIENTIANE – OUDOMXAY 00:50 h

VIENTIANE – XIENGKHUANG 00:30 h

VIENTIANE – CHAMPASAK 01:35 h

VIENTIANE – BORKEO 01:05 h 01:00 h 01:50 h 03:10 h 01:40 h 02:10 h

VIENTIANE – ATTAPEU 02:00 h 04:00 h

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