The Relais & Châteaux magazine Issue 8 Fall-Winter 2019 relaischateaux.com/magazine #relaischateauxmagazine
New Zealand Reflections Glaciers and fjords, white-capped mountains and emerald prairies, subtropical forests, volcanoes, wild coastlines: Every facet of nature’s personality awaits you on New Zealand’s South Island. pages 8-9
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Going Green in Bavaria
Palazzo Seneca: the Art of Leisure
The Swiss Pine: King of the Alps
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PRINT VERSION OF THE INSTANTS ONLINE MAGAZINE — RELAISCHATEAUX.COM/MAGAZINE > APPS FOR IPHONE & IPAD
DEAR READERS AND TRAVEL-LOVING FRIENDS,
The quality of a moment often resides where it takes place. For the release of the new Fall-Winter issue of the Relais & Châteaux magazine, we asked a number of young illustrators to “sketch” some of our properties in their exceptional natural environments. These contemporary interpretations remind us of the tremendous care these establishments around the world devote to their architecture and surroundings, and to the well-being to be enjoyed in such assiduously built and well-appointed spaces. Now more than ever, faced with the climate change that is of such concern to us all, our properties are environmental El Dorados. These sites, most of which are protected, resonate with their environments, as even seen in the cuisine through the choice of ingredients, freshpicked herbs, or an active vegetable garden. They are peaceful, tranquil oases focused on experiencing the moment, respecting space – the art of contemplative leisure. Letting time pass deliberately, deliciously. This season, it is our great pleasure to share with you destinations offering wide open spaces to inspire and renew the soul: New Zealand, the American East Coast, India, Italy’s Umbria region, Germany and more. Our properties also pulse with the rhythm of myriad thoughtful deeds and meticulous actions. In this Fall-Winter 2019 issue, we shed light, too, on our commitment and that of our chefs on the theme of Food for Change. In partnership with the non-profit organization Slow Food, our chefs will tell you about their most precious ingredients, pairing the pleasure of protecting the culinary biodiversity of their regions with their love of the season. We wish you many Instants of happy reading and extraordinary travels. The Editors
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Chilean artist Jorge Roa chose to illustrate Awasi Patagonia. Though he studied industrial design, illustration is his full-time job. Drawing is an intense experience of memory through places, people, and objects. That intensity is always new; it is his inspiration: @conjuntouniverso
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A verdant panorama stretches as far as the eye can see.
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Going Green in Bavaria Explore a sublime, preserved environment, a peaceful oasis where time seems to stand still. Set out to meet nature face-to-face and find utter relaxation in Bavaria’s warm hospitality and unique savoir-faire.
LUCIE CHARPENTIER Lucie, a French photographer based in the United Kingdom, enjoys sharing her adventures, ever guided by the desire to capture and convey authentic moments. @luciechpt
LANDROMANTIK HOTEL OSWALD Sophisticated décor is given a softer touch in the paneled rooms. The theme of classicmeets-contemporary also finds expression in Thomas Gerber’s cuisine.
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GUT STEINBACH HOTEL & CHALETS At 700 meters in altitude, the chalets replicate the local architecture and are carefully designed to not disturb the peace of the surrounding mountains. On the estate’s fifty hectares of meadow and forest, small-scale sustainable breeding supplies the needs of the restaurant.
WE BEGIN OUR ADVENTURE WITH A DELICATELY NOSTALGIC ESTABLISHMENT AN HOUR FROM MUNICH. We are at the
traditional property of Park-Hotel Egerner Höfe, perfect for our first encounter with Bavaria. The premises are just minutes from Lake Tegernsee, and the architecture, in colors that blend perfectly with the surroundings, leaves us openmouthed in awe. We are even blessed with the chance to sample the culinary artistry of Chef Thomas Kellermann and his truly stunning fusion of textures. To reach Gut Steinbach Hotel & Chalets, we cross over a mountain pass, every turn of which reveals yet another incredible view, and we have now arrived in a veritable paradise lost. Chalets, lake, mountains, deer – the most authentic experience imaginable. We are surrounded by purity and tranquility, impressed by the interior décor and details, wrapped in the halo of warmth radiating from this establishment. At long last, we head east of Munich to discover, hidden in the Bavarian forest, the Landromantik Hotel Oswald, a remarkable, subtle balance of traditional charm and contemporary chic. The terrace at the end of our room leads us directly to the outdoor pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, and steam room for some exquisite relaxation to conclude our road trip.
Cookery classes & gourmet festivals in Germany BÜLOW PALAIS, Dresden The Globetrotter cookery classes ALL-YEAR
BURG SCHWARZENSTEIN Geisenheim Cookery classes ALL-YEAR
PARK-HOTEL EGERNER HÖFE Rottach-Egern Cookery classes 10.10.2019: “Vegetables: easy, ingenious, and not even vegetarian” 21.11.2019: “Truffles: Alba White and black truffles”
PARK-HOTEL EGERNER HÖFE This emblematic estate is built in the middle of 10,000 m² of grounds that are home to many ancient trees.
VILLINO, Lindau/Bodolz Cookery classes 12.10.2019: “Autumn game cuisine” 16.11.2019: “Forest – mushrooms – truffles”
HARDENBERG BURGHOTEL Nörten-Hardenberg Gourmet festival 27.10.2019: with Benjamin Biedlingmaier (Bülow Palais) 17.11.2019: Game
HOTEL BAREISS Baiersbronn Cookery class 10.11.2019: “It‘s beginning to smell a lot like almonds and cinnamon” For more information: www.events.relaischateaux.com
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CUISINE
Landhaus Stricker: Seaside Calm on the Island of Sylt Sylt, the northernmost of the German islands, is known as one Central Europe’s last remaining wild regions, revered for its grand landscapes and particularly pure air. Our reporter-writer François Simon went there to inhale the invigorating breezes of this maritime clime and taste the marvelous local cuisine of Chef Holger Bodendorf.
A TIMELESS JOURNEY You may remember
that it was here that Roman Polanski’s The Ghost Writer (2009) was filmed. It was here, too, that Karl Lagerfeld, as a child, scampered on the beaches, surrounding himself with wicker chairs and broad, colorful stripes. It is a place where Germany’s upper crust comes to jet-set about in Porsches and on bicycles. It is here, too, that the solid Landhaus Stricker hotel makes its home, regally removed from the dunes and tea rooms. At this sumptuous property, a Relais & Châteaux member since 2011, we quickly understood that its location amidst the trees was not intended to promote hiding away. It need not trumpet its existence, either, with its five-star ranking and well-considered dimensions: nearly forty capacious rooms and suites comfortably spread about, with terraces and balconies and
Thatched roof and whitewashed brick: this five-star establishment exudes traditional charm while offering a setting and service of superior refinement.
TRAVEL
Ten Unexpected Points of View in Germany
NATURAL PHENOMENON
Where to stay: Bülow Palais is in Dresden’s Baroque district, with the Semper Opera House, Zwinger Palace, and Frauenkirche making it a sightseeing cornucopia. What to see: The Elbe Sandstone Mountains are a must and only a short train ride from Dresden. Take your camera to capture the beautiful footpaths meandering through valleys, ravines, mesas, and rock formations. The region’s wealth of flora and fauna is protected by the site’s national-park status.
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INTO THE FOREST
Where to stay: The charming Hotel Bareiss in BadenWürttemberg is surrounded by the dense woods, serene valleys, and mountain meadows of the Black Forest, bursting with diverse animal and botanical wonders. What to see: Nature lovers can explore nearby wild spaces including the forest park, Sattelei refuge, and national park. In the forest, head to the beautiful, whitefir observation platform called Ellbachseeblick, with a spectacular view of the Schwarzwaldhochstraße, Ellbachsee, and Mitteltal. Via the platform, you can access the Kniebiser Heimatpfad, the village’s first hiking trail, for further sightseeing.
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BOTANICAL DELIGHTS
MOUNTAINTOPS
Where to stay: Head to Villino, an exquisite hotel located above Lindau, near Lake Constance. What to see: Close to the hotel is the local mountain, Pfänder. With a highest point of 1,064 meters, it has a unique panorama of the lake and the four surrounding countries: Germany, Austria, Liechtenstein and Switzerland. From up here, you can glimpse a total of 240 alpine peaks (on clear days). To get to the top, follow one of the wellsign-posted walking trails or take the Pfänderbahn, a cable car that ferries visitors from the base station in Bregenz up to the summit in mere minutes.
Where to dine: Restaurant Lafleur in the heart of the magnificent Palmengarten botanical gardens in Frankfurt. What to see: The Palmengarten botanical gardens, a verdant paradise in the middle of downtown, span more than 20 hectares, with 9,000m² of greenhouses (built in the 19th and 20th centuries) with an endless array of natural delights: the Tropicarium, a conservatory sheltering a vast collection of tropical and subtropical species; the Goethe Garden; and the 60-foot-high palm house, built in 186869, a veritable jungle of fascinating, exotic palms.
WINTER WONDERLAND
Where to stay: The Hotel Jagdhof Glashütte is located in Bad Laasphe, in the middle of an impressive landscape and not far from the Rothaar mountains. What to see: The natural landscape of the Jagdhof is even more picturesque during winter with the arrival of the holiday season. Dressed up in the most resplendent of decorations, the hotel is a true marvel to behold. Hold onto your heart, it’s sure to leap.
Game with celery, cherry, and spruce sprouts: At the Bodendorf’s, Landhaus Stricker’s gourmet restaurant, guests can revel in unexpected combinations as the chef pursues his ceaseless culinary research.
small verdant yards – fresh air, peace and quiet. Landhaus Stricker knows its clientele well and strives to exceed guests’ exacting expectations: a superb 700-square-meter spa with a large swimming pool, steam room, and, of course, the sauna, an essential component of the northern countries’ raison d’être. But one of the hotel’s greatest assets is having a chef – Holger Bodendorf, 52 – who asks himself an essential question on a daily basis: “How can I keep my clients coming back?” With ever-evolving cuisine, no doubt, driven by the renewed pursuit of an earlier reputation as one of the region’s best restaurants (1972-1986). So Holger Boldendorf has chosen to challenge himself, mixing meridians and inflections to create cuisine that is alive, tossing in a bit of Italy, Asia, and Mediterranean, but most especially by embracing local ingredients and a sustainable philosophy, avoiding products that require long journeys
The sauna awaits you at the hotel after a day exploring the island’s rugged treasures. Other amenities include an indoor pool and a fitness center.
ISLAND CURIOSITIES
FORESTS FOR FOODIES
Where to stay: The Dollenberg Hotel, tucked in the Black Forest, is surrounded by picturesque paths, regal trees, and breathtaking expanses of pristine nature. What to see: “Tischlein, Deck Dich,” (“The Wishing Table”), the hotel’s outdoor gourmet dining experience beneath the stars. The hotel’s two-Michelin-star restaurant, Le Pavillon, is overseen by Chef Martin Herrmann. His menu takes inspiration from the colors of the Black Forest and the tastes of the terroir.
FRANÇOIS SIMON
from farm to table. Nationally renowned “HB” could have contented himself with posing for magazines, crossing his arms across his chest in classic chefly stance, but he does not. Despite his Viking looks and proud bearing, he practices what few chefs allow: the crucial asset of doubt, rethinking, calling into question. Which leads to cuisine that regularly changes direction, one that echoes with originality an archetypal terroir: the imperious sea and a land of authentic, unadorned products that make their way to the hotel’s two restaurants – the contemporary bistro Siebzehn84 and the gourmet restaurant Bodendorf’s. “The lamb,” he says, “comes from nearby, from Denmark’s Knuthenlund Farm, and the meat is rich with the taste of the herbs we also have here on the island of Sylt: chervil, rosemary, wild garlic.” All cooked slowly, at low temperature... probably one of the keys to Sylt’s well-being.
Where to stay: The Seesteg hotel is at beach’s edge on the island of Norderney in the North Sea. What to see: The sea! Every room here has a sea view and the outdoor rooftop pool looks out over the Wadden Sea National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Stroll along the endless sandy beaches at the hotel’s doorstep, gather mussels, or take a guided tour of the Wadden Sea area to witness the arrival of low tide, uncovering a curious collection of flora and fauna.
A journalist and author fascinated by art de vivre. He has written some 40 books, is a contributor to Air France Magazine, M le Monde, Purple Magazine, Casa Brutus (Japan), and Holiday, and maintains his own website, simonsays.fr
Chef Holger Bodendorf feels that “cooking the best ingredients with love to create new dishes is one of life’s true pleasures.”
ALL ABOUT WINE
1,000-YEAR-OLD TALES
Where to stay: The Hardenberg BurgHotel, 13 kilometers north of Göttingen, lies on Count von Hardenberg’s estate, beneath the Hardenberg castle ruins. What to see: Spend time taking in the view of castle ruins that tell a thousand-year-old tale. The Hardenberg Castle has a long and interesting past for history buffs to learn more about. Even after it turned to ruins following a thunderstorm in 1698, and after being abandoned in 1720, it remains a magnificent sight to behold and photograph.
Where to stay: Burg Schwarzenstein, built over 150 years ago, is surrounded by the Rheingau region’s vineyards, with endless panoramas of the Rhine Valley. What to see: The Rheingau region is a favored destination among wine lovers. When you leave the hotel, find your way to Vollrads Castle and stroll along the banks of the Rhine to discover worldfamous vineyards. While at the castle, you can learn to recognize different Rieslings and sample the property’s Kalte Ente, a punch of light and sparkling wines with a twist of lemon.
CLASSICS, CASTLES, AND COUNTS
Where to stay: Schlosshotel Burg Schlitz is a classical palace tucked away in 400 acres of landscaped grounds, an hour and a half from Berlin and Hamburg. What to see: The Burg Schlitz is a major historical site and one of Germany’s most prominent classical structures. Built between 1806 and 1823 for Count Hans von Schlitz, it was turned into a family home from 1992 to 1999, then meticulously renovated and rebuilt to become the castle-hotel we see today.
By Tamlin Wightman
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A relaxed, comfortable concept of luxury
Matakauri Lodge’s 17 rooms and suites offer the privileged privacy of a breathtaking natural setting.
The fare is crafted with local, seasonal ingredients.
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New Zealand Reflections The landscapes of New Zealand’s South Island are among the best preserved and most diverse on the planet: glaciers and fjords, skyscraping mountains, endless plains, rolling green hills, subtropical forests, a volcanic plateau, miles of pristine coastline. Such natural bounty inspires both humility and gratitude in any traveler, a desire to respect the environment and local culture.
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TRAVERSING NEW ZEALAND, OR AOTEAROA (MÃORI FOR “LAND OF THE LONG WHITE CLOUD”), IS A CEASELESS PARADE OF BREATHTAKING SURPRISES.
First stop: Matakauri Lodge, Queenstown, on the shores of Lake Wakatipu. Stretching across just over 3.5 hectares, Matakauri Lodge has aweinspiring views of the lake and mountains. The establishment opened in 2010, founded by New Yorker Julian Robertson. Today, Julian, an 86-year-old art enthusiast, displays his personal collection in the property’s various buildings: from original Picassos to a canvas by Sir Mountford Tosswill Woollaston. Julian created Matakauri to offer a place where anyone could feel truly at home and he has succeeded swimmingly. Here, luxury is laid back and comfortable. The interiors by famed New Zealand interior designer Virginia Fisher feature mostly glass, stone, and wood, with ample fireplaces and bay windows showcasing the beauty of the water and peaks. In addition to the main lodge and its suites, the
A super-sized bathtub with views of Lake Wakatipu.
Escape to the spectacular mountains, wild grasslands, and wetlands of Ahuriri Conservation Park.
The light-drenched dining room.
Nostalgic charm at Otahuna Lodge.
Owner’s Cottage, which opened in 2014, is the quintessential cocoon for traveling groups or families. This incredible four-bedroom villa provides guests with the services of a private chef, while the terrace Jacuzzi offers a sumptuous view of the lake. The Cottage’s privileged guests also have a private jetty at their disposal and Matakauri can arrange arrival by boat. In the restaurant, Chef Jonathan Rogers changes the menu daily, always featuring the best local and seasonal ingredients – everything is produced within a two-hour drive or is gleaned from the on-site vegetable garden. We go from Queenstown to our next stop on the immense Canterbury Plains and the landscape changes dramatically. Journey highlights include Lindis Pass, a spectacular passage between the Lindis and Ahuriri River valleys at 971 meters’ altitude, and the turquoise waters of Lake Tekapo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The property surrounding the 19th-century Victorian Otahuna
Lodge appears, with immaculately tended grounds and views of the Canterbury Plains and Banks Peninsula. Hall Cannon and Miles Refo, two charming Americans who are absolute masters of hospitality, bought Otahuna in 2006 and have completely renovated it since, seamlessly blending the new with the old. Woodwork, stained-glass windows, and fireplaces (some in the bathrooms) share space with a superb collection of New Zealand contemporary art. Otahuna’s impressive garden is without a doubt one of the estate’s most captivating amenities. The organic vegetable garden is home to more than 120 varieties of fruit, vegetables, nuts, and mushrooms and the henhouse provides the eggs for breakfast. In the kitchens, Australian Christian Bochsbichler focuses on freshness, giving great attention to guests’ specific desires. While breathing new life into Otahuna Lodge, Miles and Hall managed to elevate the experience of luxury the lodge offers. Magic is at work everywhere at Otahuna.
The impressive gardens lend themselves to dawdling and daydreaming.
GEORGIA HOPKINS Georgia Hopkins is an Australian travel writer who, for seven years, has been finding and sharing the off-thebeaten track magic and beauty she discovers on the road. In addition to writing content on her own It’s Beautiful Here website, Georgia is a regular contributor to publications like Vogue Australia’s Spy Style, The Evening Standard (UK), Harper’s Bazaar (US), Conde Nast Traveler (US), A Hotel Life (NYC), Well+Good (US), and AFAR (US). @_itsbeautifulhere
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The U.S. East Coast: Tides of the Heart The American East Coast through the eyes of author François Simon and photographer Yann Stofer.
THE WAUWINET “Here it’s a wife-and-husband team that cooks and serves. We’re on a secluded part of the island, flanked by water,” explains Maître de Maison Eric Landt.
BLAIR HILL From the moment you enter, you can feel the very soul of this property, the passion that slowly and inexorably crafted these 10 rooms steeped in profound and gentle luxury.
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CAMDEN HARBOUR An establishment that imbues its contemporary style with exquisite energy, from the reception to the restaurant menu.
MENTON In South Boston, Lucas Sousa’s cuisine is a nod to France’s famed city of Menton on the Riviera, with delightful French and Italian inspirations.
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THE CHARLOTTE INN A joyous, 18th-century gem warmed with subdued lighting and antiques at every turn, but with a vibrant, free-and-easy ambiance.
CASTLE HILL INN In its venerable past, this institution has played host to Montgomery Clift, Grace Kelly, and Paul Newman. An extraordinary property suspended in time.
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WEEKAPAUG INN Rising up from behind the dunes, this family-friendly new-age hotel is discreet and modern‌and one of the most charming inns in America.
OCEAN HOUSE Having been completely rebuilt by Daniel A. Hostettler, President of Relais & Châteaux North America, this beach hotel has been returned to its original splendor.
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COMMITMENTS
Food for Change: Cooking Ethically to Protect the Planet What we eat is responsible for 30% of greenhouse gas emissions. So when you’re a chef, the impact of each ingredient takes on great importance. Ever since Relais & Châteaux presented its Vision to UNESCO in 2014, all the Association’s members have been committed to preserving the environment and their local heritage. And it is for this reason that Relais & Châteaux and Slow Food first joined forces two years ago in an initiative called Food for Change, organizing events to raise awareness of the planetary consequences of our food choices. Meet four chefs taking part in this delicious revolution.
ESTÉRELLE PAYANY Journalist, food critic, and author. This columnist for Télérama, Télérama Sortir, and France Inter has also written some thirty books, including a French encyclopedia of vegetarian cooking (Flammarion). @esterelle
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MICHAEL TUSK, QUINCE, CALIFORNIA
“Our mission as chefs is to educate our customers, our staff, and our friends and family. The obvious action to take is to only serve organically or biodynamically grown foods.” The Fresh Run Farm, less than an hour from the restaurant, provides most of the produce, while Peter, the farmer, “takes care of the Californian Slow Food Ark of Taste products: Marrowfat beans, Elephant Heart plums, Spitzenberg, Hauer Pippin, and Sebastopol Gravenstein apples. He works with the team as a cook!” On the Food for Change menu: raw and demi-sec Cherokee Purple tomatoes with a light seaweed broth, wasabi, and olive oil; a granita of cucumber, celery, and horseradish; and Indian Blood peaches poached in Meyer lemon-leaf syrup and served with lemon-leaf pastry cream and Fresh Run Honey & Bee Pollen gelato – since the work of bees is vital to biodiversity.
DAVID ALEXANDER, GLENAPP CASTLE, SCOTLAND
CÉDRIC BÉCHADE, L’AUBERGE BASQUE, FRANCE
“To cook is to educate.” For this member of the Scottish Slow Food Alliance, it’s not just about being in the kitchens: You also must dialogue with your growers, customers, and staff members, especially the youngest among them, “because protecting biodiversity is in their hands.” Defending seasonal and local products in an environmentally friendly way also entails teaching novice cooks the right choices to make: serving more reasonable quantities, rejecting wasteful practices, and setting higher prices that also requires reinventing the cuisine. Salt from the Isle of Skye, wild deer hunted around the chateau, Loch Ryan oysters, sought after since the 17th century: the entire Scottish terroir contributes to the cause.
Eight Slow Food Sentinelles (Ark of Taste products): In France, the Basque Country has the greatest number of these noble ingredients to protect. This is why Cédric Béchade makes sure he works only with local producers who provide him with endless inspiration: “Here, we have a Food for Change menu all year long! In the space of twelve years, we’ve seen the renaissance of many species, like Basque Grand Roux corn, which disappeared in the 19th century and is now grown by about fifteen farmers.” The menu no longer features signature dishes: “The chef is Mother Nature. The high season for Basque cuisine used to be April through October. But we have more than piperade to offer: We can prepare dishes that are 100% local, even in winter, with Macaye chestnuts, Kriaxera duck, Banka trout. The joy of seasonality is seeing the ingredient again after those many months apart. Because you had time to miss it.”
RAME GOWDA, SHREYAS RETREAT, INDIA
Atithi Devo Bhava: This mantra, which means “serving the guest as the Divine,” is the foundation of the hospitality practiced here. Rame Gowda’s cooking is fresh, light, and nourishing, prepared in accordance with the principles of ayurveda, in keeping with the seasons of the earth and the rhythms of the human body. Slow Food’s core values – good, clean, and fair for all – have long been a reality at this establishment: Everything is grown in an organic vegetable garden, respecting both people and nature. Among the tasty treasures to try during Food for Change are the wax gourd, with a high quotient of what yogic science calls prana, or vital energy; moringa, a super-food with delicious seed pods, leaves, and flowers; and millet, a grain that is particularly easy to digest. The secularity of foodstuffs becomes spiritual, nourishing the human soul and the planet.
LET’S WORK TOGETHER TO CULTIVATE SOLUTIONS TO CLIMATE CHANGE. Cut down on the amount of MEAT PRODUCTS you serve on the menu (high carbon footprint).
Use SEASONAL, LOCAL INGREDIENTS (less than 50km or 30mi radius from your property). For local produce, try sourcing ORGANIC PRODUCTS. Avoid cattle and try to use other meats (e.g. SHEEP, GOAT, TURKEY, etc.).
Use LOCAL BREEDS instead of more conventional ones (e.g. Limousin, Charolais, Angus) and INDICATE on your menu the breeds and producers.
Don’t use YOUNG ANIMALS (except lambs and nanny goats).
Slow Food Relais & Châteaux
SUSTAINABLE FISH: follow the WORLD OCEANS DAY guide
Incorporate a product from the ARK OF TASTE, which is a database of heritagefruits, vegetables, animal breeds, cheeses, breads, sweets, cured meats, and more.
Incorporate a NATURAL WINE (low sulfites, natural fermentation, low intervention, organic, biodynamic, etc.)
Eliminate meat from INDUSTRIAL LIVESTOCK PRODUCTION (even higher carbon footprint). And try to use animals that are raised in OPEN SPACES (e.g. mountains, forests, etc.)
Try to apply a ZERO WASTE policy.
Try to avoid TROPICAL FRUIT if you are in a temperate climate.
PROTECT BIODIVERSITY FIGHT CLIMATE CRISIS 3-6 OCTOBER 2019
We highly recommend creating VEGETARIAN DISHES OR MENU.This gives vegetables a moment to shine and also shows there is a commitment to decreasing carbon footprint.
For IMPORTED PRODUCTS (sugar, coffee, cocoa), use FAIR TRADE or ORGANIC.
@relaischateaux @slowfoodinternational #relaischateaux #foodforchange #onechefoneingredient #slowfood
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TRAVEL
The Dazzling Colors of Jaipur Sometimes you just have to be honest with yourself: You deserve the best. The Sujan Rajmahal Palace, boasting a monumental, flamboyant style and a supremely attentive staff, offers a maharajah’s life every moment inside its walls. By Joann Pai
AFTER A FEW ADVENTUROUS DAYS IN THE WILDERNESS at Sher Bagh safari camp (read more below), we head to Jaipur. Approaching the famous “Pink City,” our excitement grows as the roads become more densely packed with cars, motorbikes, rickshaws, cows, and camels. We arrive at the gate of the majestic Rajmahal Palace and are warmly greeted with “Namaste.”
Located in central Jaipur, the palace was the royal family’s primary residence before they relocated to the City Palace. It was renovated by designer Adil Ahmad and opened as a hotel in 2014. Each of the 13 suites is uniquely and lavishly decorated with a mix of classical and modern styles. There’s a dining room called “51 Shades of Pink” that is, well, decorated entirely in hot pink. We gasp every time we walk into
Although there is an indoor restaurant, the staff also arranges various outdoor dining spots to give their guests the pleasure of a different experience each time.
TRAVEL
The Majesty of Rajasthan Joann Pai leads us on a discovery of the riches of India and stops at the Suján Sher Bagh, nestled in the heart of the Ranthambhore Nature Reserve in Rajasthan. It is the ideal place to meet tigers and experience the luxury camping of the 1920s.
The hotel consists of 10 hand-stitched canvas tents and two suites equipped with private Jacuzzi and pool, as well as a library and superb outdoor areas where you can relax.
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a different room! After this tour, we settle into the Mountbatten suite, a tribute to Lord Mountbatten, who stayed here in his day. The palace has also had other famous guests, like the Queen of England, the Prince and Princess of Wales, and Jackie Kennedy. After enjoying a bath in the marble bathtub, I come out of the room feeling like royalty myself. As the sun sets and paints the palace exterior in a different shade of pink, we make our way to a special outdoor dinner they have set up for us by the pool, with candles and rose petals. The service here feels genuine and unobtrusive and they always go above and beyond to make our experience exceptional. The menu has international options and a traditional Rajasthani thali. Having booked a cooking class with chef the next day to make a thali, we opt for the homemade pappardelle with red-wine-braised lamb ragout, which is delicious!
Being a big fan of the TV series The Crown, I am excited about sleeping in the Mountbatten suite!
At the market stalls, we can’t help but buy some spices to take home with us.
One of the palace rooms. Forty-six custom wallpapers adorn its common areas and suites.
Jagat Shiromani Temple, less visited than Amer Fort, is one of the most beautiful in the city.
The next morning, we hop into the hotel’s 1950s Ambassador car and tour Jaipur to see beautiful haveli architecture and the wholesale flower and produce market. Our tour continues in private at the must-see City Palace, a place of dazzling refinement. Even though Amer Fort is considered an essential visit in this region, due to time constraints, we choose to visit a nearby temple instead. After a morning of being wowed by the incredible monuments, we head back to the palace for our cooking class. We start with a tour of the organic vegetable and herb garden. We then learn to make dishes that will be part of our thali tonight – mutton cooked in red chilies and ghee, daal, and spinach sautéed in garlic. Indian cooking is all about layering flavors, allowing each spice to blossom before adding another. While our stew simmers in the kitchen, we relax by the pool and recount our fun-filled day. Rajasthan has managed to capture our hearts with the colors, textures, flavors, and especially the warmth of the people. As the sun begins to paint the walls of the palace again, we settle in to taste the fruits of our labor. With each bite, we feel like we are gaining a deeper understanding of and appreciation for this complex cuisine. Our trip here has been incredible, largely thanks to the Suján Group. Everyone has gone the extra mile to make our time here memorable.
Our evening’s thali: chicken with red chilies and garlic in ghee, cheesestuffed tomatoes, okra, carrots, lentil daal and yogurt, all served with plain rice.
Shawls for cold evenings, lanterns, a “butler” button for service: Everything in our tent was designed to ensure we had the finest stay possible.
A big thank-you to our guide for letting me borrow his camera for a closer shot of the female tiger! Our first safari. Unforgettable!
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This 16th-century building has been beautifully restored to create a warm, elegant sanctuary. I arrived in the chill of the late afternoon and was immediately welcomed by the comforting smell of firewood. It felt as if I was going to spend an evening at a friend’s home. After enjoying a break in the hotel sauna, I went over to the Vespasia restaurant, where Chef Valentino Palmisano greeted me with his divine spaghetti with tomato, a dish that holds a special place in his heart.
Every dish was made to perfection; I felt I was being taken on a journey through Umbria without ever leaving the table! The highlight of the meal for me was the black truffle tortellini with mushroom consommé.
Terracotta tomette tiles on the floor, a large table draped in a white tablecloth, a family armoire, a garden view: the property’s simple nobility enchants me at every turn.
CUISINE
Palazzo Seneca: the Art of Leisure
JOANN PAI
If you love black truffles, prosciutto, and wine, Norcia is truly heaven on earth. Tucked away in the center of this charming Italian city in picturesque Umbria, Palazzo Seneca combines historic charm with elegant contemporary flair.
A native of Naples, the young chef spent the last seven years in Shanghai and Kyoto, returning to Italy with intricate culinary savoir-faire in the art of marrying flavors. Tonight, this talent is expressed in a redfish sashimi with sea urchins, followed by sweet-and-sour calves’ sweetbreads.
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The ground floor of Palazzo Seneca has several rooms and suites, all furnished with character. Mine is in a rich array of woods and features a sturdy fourposter bed, a pair of leather armchairs, and a few designer objects.
Issue 8 - Fall-Winter 2019
Joann is a food and travel photographer in Paris, originally from Vancouver, Canada. She has traveled the world working on lifestyle brand shoots and editorial assignments. @sliceofpai
After leaving Palazzo Seneca, I realized I had forgotten to turn in my room key. I had such a lovely time that I subconsciously did not want to leave.
TRAVEL
The Wild Beauty of Mexico Charm and well-being are everywhere at Imanta Punta de Mita. Nestled in 100 hectares of equatorial forest bordering the Pacific Ocean, it is a peaceful oasis, the ideal place to experience this exhilarating feeling of change of scenery and the wonders of Mexican nature.
The day is spent lazing around the pool and in the garden. We listen to the sounds of the jungle blending with the whoosh of the waves caressing the coast.
A meticulously prepared local feast of fresh fruits and the best huevos rancheros and chilaquiles we’ve had anywhere in Mexico.
Although the establishment covers several hectares, it has only 12 accommodations. A short walk from our room lies between us and our breakfast, which we choose to enjoy in the oceanside restaurant. The coast is spectacular and the location is extraordinary: a private beach, reached exclusively from the Imanta Punta De Mita property.
Above the main building, the rooftop terrace offers incredible 360 -degree views and a refreshing infinity pool.
WHITNEY VALVERDE The Jungle Spa is breathtaking, the lush surroundings tamed by an extraordinary arrangement of screens and terraces.Everything is designed to create an entirely open-air well-being space that still offers genuine privacy. I forget, once and for all, that I’m at a resort and I simply feel like the only human on earth, alone in the embrace of the wilderness!
Whitney Valverde, a Costa Rican living in London, started her own website dedicated to fashion and lifestyle, Whitney’s Wonderland. She is a globetrotter, sharing good vibes around the world @whitneys_wonderland
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TRAVEL
South African Safari A stay at the Esiweni Luxury Safari Lodge in the Nambiti Private Game Reserve is a gift you give yourself, a moment far from the urban clamor and frenzy. Here, wildlife and life in the wild weave their spells; days are measured by sunrise and sunset as you share space and experiences with the animals of the savannah.
Elegantly appointed rooms punctuated with African craftsmanship. The breakfast is entirely homemade.
CÉLINE MARKS In 2012, after twelve years as an artistic director in the advertising world, CÊline Marks returned to her first love: photography. She has since established her own blog, Les Demoizelles, in which she immortalizes moments, travels, landscapes, and emotions. @celinemarks The view of the Sunday River from a terrace at Esiweni.
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TRAVEL
The Answers to Life in a Garden Explore the city of Cape Town, drink the wine and wild air of the Winelands … but for needs of the heart and soul, retreat to the gardens of The Cellars-Hohenort in the Constantia Valley. By Céline Marks and Tamlin Wightman
Breathtaking grace in the light of the setting sun.
The establishment, stretching over four hectares of gently tamed nature, devotes the same attention to its outdoor spaces it does its guest rooms, suites, and private villas.
IT HAS BEEN SAID THAT ALL THE WORLD’S PROBLEMS CAN BE SOLVED IN A GARDEN. Of
Hunting season for the king of beasts.
An enormous encounter along the roads of the reserve.
course, there are all kinds of gardens – rose gardens, cactus gardens, vegetable gardens, food forest gardens, sculpture gardens, rolling lawn gardens, indigenous plant gardens. Each kind is beautiful and each has the potential to help build a healthy, sustainable earth, from the soil to the plants to the humans, birds, and bees living off them. The gardens of The Cellars-Hohenort in Cape Town, in the Constantia Valley, are the all-encompassing kind. You can spend an entire day tailing the roving ducks to each corner of the nine acres, from the more than 2,500 roses to the 950 vines. Or seeking out the resident porcupine, roaming from the picnic garden to the Hohenort Lawns. Or following the path from the herb and vegetable garden to the restaurants: The Conservatory, built around a giant, 300-year-old oak tree, and the Greenhouse, where indigenous ingredients and local culinary traditions are presented through unique African storytelling. Freshly picked leafy greens, citrus fruit, succulents, and edible flowers are from local suppliers or gathered in the forest, beaches, and gardens of the hotel. Fresh, local, and sustainable are the rule at both eateries. Watching people wind through the paths in a garden like The Cellars-Hohenort, you can see a code of respect, veneration. As they travel through the thick canopies of trees, past modest ponds, water features, and creeperlined doorways, taking in the bougainvillea, agapanthus, plectranthus, clivia, hydrangeas, daffodils, and camphor trees, people walk more slowly, speak more softly. The better with which to hear the trees and breeze and birdsong, perhaps, or because the energy
of the plants is so strong. In this garden, people’s eyes shine brighter and, dare I say, there’s a shift in their hearts, too. I feel it, at least. It’s no accident, either. The garden, like the hotel, is the result of more than 20 years of hard work, love, and imagination by the owner, Liz McGrath, and the caring hand of co-creator Jean Almon. Today, the gardens are beautifully maintained by Head Gardener Leigh-Ann Louw and her team, with help from Cape dwarf chameleons and the company of cinnamon doves, lemon doves, Cape whiteeyes, forest canaries, paradise flycatchers, and squirrels. The boutique hotel lies at the heart of this horticultural embrace, with guestrooms, suites, and private villas. About a 15-minute drive from downtown Cape Town, the peace of the garden extends to these places of slumber and retreat, to the spa and swimming pool and high-tea terrace – perhaps a little less to the putting green and tennis court, depending on your competitiveness. Surrounding The Cellars-Hohenort is what is known as Cape Town’s Vineyard – the Constantia Wine Valley, South Africa’s most historic wine region. Explore it. But it’s always to the gardens that people return. Each season, something new is revealed. Just when you get used to the warmth of a dry summer in the garden, autumn arrives with deep reds and oranges, and then winter with her vibrant greens, and spring, with endless colorful blooms. To play here, in The CellarsHohenort’s outdoors, even for a short while, you can’t possibly remember what all those problems were that needed solving. There is an ease to all things, a flow, like the natural cycles themselves.
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TRAVEL
The Swiss Pine: King of the Alps Tucked under a thick, snowy blanket in Switzerland’s Engadine region lies the wood-clad In Lain Hotel Cadonau, a charming property where family heritage is kept alive.
THE SCENT OF SWISS PINE WELCOMES ME AS I STEP INSIDE THE PICTURESQUE, ENGADINE-STYLE HOUSE,
the warm woody aroma contrasting sharply with the wintery mountain breeze blowing outside. A log fire is blazing in the background, providing the soundtrack to my three-day immersion in Switzerland’s thick pine forests. For many centuries, the people of the canton of Grisons have been using the Swiss pine in construction and furnituremaking; the wood of this abundant tree has comforting and vitality-inducing essences. “In Lain” means “made from wood” in the local Romansh dialect and every corner of this undeniably cozy, 14-bedroom Relais & Châteaux property is a celebration of the scented pine and its positive impact on well-being. Incorporating local wood was a natural choice for Dario and Tamara Cadonau, the Maîtres de Maison of In Lain. Dario comes from a family of carpenters; his brother, Marco, is currently running the family’s 40-year-old woodworking workshop. “Our ancestors have lived in the main building for over 450 years, so our hotel is very much rooted in family history, past and present,” Dario explains to me over a welcoming drink in the wood-paneled La Stüvetta restaurant, the centerpiece of what was once his grandparents’ inn. “When we opened In Lain in 2010, it was clear that it should double as a showroom for my brother’s work.” Original chalet chairs with carved-heart backs, solid wood tables, and grandfather clocks have been lovingly restored by Marco and given a contemporary touch. Traditional woodworking and modern design blend harmoniously at In Lain, as exemplified by the new extension where my guest room is located. In my spacious junior suite, designer décor abounds, from the leather lounge chairs and clean-lined sideboards to the floor-to-ceiling windows with a forest panorama. Days at In Lain begin in the most relaxing way. After a restful night in my Swiss pinewood bed and a visit to the outdoor sauna, a breakfast spread of local delicacies awaits: homemade mountain cheeses, berry-laden Birchermüslis, freshly baked brioche, and egg dishes cooked on a wood-fired stove. Outside, the sun is rising from behind the whitepowdered mountains, the snow glistening in the soft morning light. In Lain sits at the heart of a picture-postcard version of Switzerland, surrounded by quaint villages, ski slopes, and hiking trails, where I spend my afternoons working up an appetite for dinner. At Vivanda, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, tasting menus change daily, but there is one ingredient that remains a staple whatever Chef Dario Cadonau’s mood: the Swiss pine, which flavors anything from Prosecco cocktails to creamy butters. “I’m always trying to incorporate the nature of the Alps into my cooking,” Dario says as he comes to my table after a delectable hay-broth starter. “It’s our philosophy in everything we do.” 22
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In Lain is about family. In 2010, when Dario Cadonau decided to open his hotel, he asked his carpenter brother to handle all the restoration of the antique furniture, like the typical openwork chairs and grandfather clocks.
ANNICK WEBER Travel, lifestyle, and design writer, Annick Weber is also the editor of a number of travel-related publications, including in-flight magazines and the annual Relais & Châteaux Guide.
AU CŒUR DU VILLAGE IN LA CLUSAZ
With five interconnected mountain ranges, La Clusaz is an enormous playground for all ages, and the Au Cœur du Village hotel is a family paradise. Its suites are specially designed for families, the wellness center welcomes children at prearranged times, and the children’s area is open to entertain the kids after a day’s skiing (until 10 p.m.!). To leave you free to fully enjoy the hotel’s divine fine-dining experience, a kids’ buffet is served in the children’s area every evening! Group ski lessons leave from a point just opposite the hotel and, for individual lessons, ski instructors collect your children at the ski room. Who could ask for more?
TRAVEL
Five Family-Friendly Mountain Hotels Winter’s just around the corner, triggering an irrepressible impulse to frolic in the snow. But it’s not always easy to satisfy the whole family. Here are five hotels for your clan’s mountain adventures.
LES BARMES DE L’OURS IN VAL D’ISÈRE
Opened in 2003, the Les Barmes de l’Ours hotel combines a family feel with an extremely cozy setting. Book one of the 11 dedicated family suites: Your kids will find cuddly toys and goodies waiting on their beds! Younger children can enjoy hours of fun in the toy-filled playroom, while their older siblings have games consoles, pool, and foosball on offer. During school vacations, a mini-club is open to all kids age 3 and up from 4:00 to 9:00 pm. After dinner, there’s nothing better than getting together for a friendly competition in the resort’s bowling alley or playing one of the hotel’s many board games by the fireside!
LE CHALET D’ADRIEN IN SWITZERLAND
When you arrive in your rooms, you’ll find kids’ bathrobes and, depending on their ages, complete baby changing kits, strollers, changing mats, baby baths, and more. Your children will love the buffet breakfast: pancakes, waffles, cereals, drinking yogurt, Petit-Suisse cheese, fruit juices. The ski instructors are available to organize the day’s skiing for your kids and can take your children to and from the ski school. You can also enjoy a snack served by the fireside. You can reserve a babysitter for the youngest, while older kids can spend hours in the game room with Xbox, ping-pong, foosball, etc. The hotel restaurants serve a children’s dinner menu from 6:30 p.m. on, so they don’t have to wait too long after an appetite-building day of fresh air.
THE BELLEVUE IN ITALY
At Cogne in the Aoste Valley, the Bellevue is a paradise destination for mountain lovers. The hotel is a former hunting reserve and combines tradition with works of art and the authentic spirit of the mountains. There’s no kids’ club here, but there is a magnificent playroom with antique school desks and heritage toys. After a great day’s skiing, the entire family can dive into the pool or have fun in the whirlpools. Between December and March, there’s a small skating rink in the village square, but you can also enjoy a horse-drawn sleigh ride. All the hotel restaurants offer a kid’s menu and personalized menus for babies. And if you fancy a night out, babysitters are available!
MARIE FAURE-AMBROISE This lifestyle journalist turned the page on working with women’s magazines to create the My Travel Dreams website dedicated to family travel. She now travels the world with her brood to explore the best spots on the planet. @mariefaureambroise
THE JAGDHOF IN AUSTRIA
The Jagdhof hotel in the Stubai Valley offers everything you need to fly down the Austrian ski runs as a family. The Kitz and Teens Club are open to children ages 4 to 12 during school vacations. Teenagers have a dedicated games room with TV, PlayStation, Nintendo Wii, darts, and pool. The littlest can be cared for by the trustworthy in-house babysitting service. Après ski, dive into the indoor pool or be pampered in the Spa with treatments for kids and parents. The Top of Tyrol viewing platform with its amazing views of 109 mountains is a snowball’s throw away. Issue 8 - Fall-Winter 2019
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In the guest rooms, the futons and tatamis, the garden view, and the traditional kimono provided to guests are the promise of an enchanting stay.
Every room in this ancient inn has discreetly refined décor punctuated by numerous works of art linking past and present.
A short walk from the inn, you will find the seafood stalls of the famous Nishiki Market. You can sample Kyotoite specialties directly at the stands.
TRAVEL
Kyoto: the Heart of Japanese Tradition
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Once the capital of Japan, Kyoto is a city steeped in history, mixing modern life with beautiful traditions. Perhaps the most wonderful way to experience “true” Kyoto is to stay at a traditional inn, and no ryokan can compare to the 145-year old Kaneamean Nishitomiya.
WE WATCHED AS TWO KIMONO-CLAD GEISHAS STYLED THEIR ICED LATTES FOR INSTAGRAM, with a Buddhist
temple in the background. Such juxtaposition gives the city so much charm and offers an immersion into the culture, both past and present. Staying at a traditional inn remains the most wonderful way to experience “true” Kyoto. We discover the 145-year old Kaneamean Nishitomiya. From the moment you step barefoot onto the plush carpeting and are escorted to your tatami-mat room, you know your stay is going to be something special. Favorite details included
the kimonos (to be worn at both breakfast and dinner), the wooden tub for soaking, and the incredible art collection throughout. Dinners were traditional Kaiseki, while breakfasts came with the choice of “Western” or “Traditional.” Our hosts also had impeccable taste in wine and their collection complemented every meal to perfection. When you are not relaxing in your garden-view room or dining on Japanese-maplesmoked fish, feel free to wander the beautiful neighborhoods surrounding this inn, soaking in every ounce of Kyoto’s culture.
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LAUREN WELLS Creative Director of her own blog, laurenstephaniewells.com, and influencer on the social networks, Lauren lives in Boston with her husband and is already planning their next @laurenswells adventures.
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Philippe Gombert
ART DIRECTION
Lucie Charpentier, Georgia Hopkins, François Simon, Estérelle Payany, Joann Paï, Whitney Valverde, Céline Marks, Tamlin Wightman, Annick Weber, Marie Faure-Ambroise, Lauren Wells.
LAYOUT
PHOTO CREDITS
MANAGING EDITOR Isabelle Mical Yorgo & Co
Virginie Oudard
EDITORIAL COORDINATION Les Digitalistes
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CONTRIBUTORS
Georgia Hopkins, Lucie Charpentier, Joann Pai, Annick Weber, Jorge Roa, Landhaus Stricker, Heike Butschkus, Frank ExB, Karl Issue 8 - Fall-Winter 2019
Hoffmann, Hardenberg BurgHotel, Hotel Jagdhof Glashütte, Josef Süß, Gesellschaftshaus Palmengarten, Schlosshotel Burg Schlitz, Wonge Bergmann, Urs Kluyver, Villino, Yann Stofer, Anne-Claire Heraud, Quince restaurant, Glenapp Castle, Shreyas Retreat, L’Auberge Basque, Florence Fairweather, Whitney Valverde, Céline Marks, Ludovic di Orio, Bellevue Hotel & Spa, Le Chalet d’Adrien, SPA-HOTEL Jagdhof, Les Barmes de l’Ours, Lauren Wells.
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