Instants #05 - English edition

The Relais & Châteaux magazine Issue 5 Spring/Summer 2018 relaischateaux.com/magazine #relaischateauxmagazine

Mykonos Paradise regained Far from the madding crowd, there is still a Mykonos where luxury is synonymous with peace and quiet, and sensual delights coexist with design. That’s the story of the Myconian Ambassador hotel and the Daktylides family. pages 2-3

TRAVEL TRAVEL JOURNAL

CUISINE SAVOUR

CUISINE SAVOUR

Reenergize in the mountains of Japan

A sense of place in the Spice Islands

All the tastes of Lake Annecy

pages 4-5

pages 6-7

pages 8-9

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TRAVEL POINT OF VIEW

A Mykonos family story Far from the island’s main town of Chora, whose crowded streets teem with a never-ending stream of people moving from bars to shops, and restaurants to nightclubs, there is still a Mykonos where luxury is synonymous with peace and quiet, and sensual delights coexist with design.

Founded by the Daktylides family, the Myconian Ambassador hotel is emblematic of that delectable balance.

The Myconian Ambassador... a temple of excellence and wellbeing on Mykonos

“WHERE THERE’S A WILL, THERE’S A WAY”: THIS DICTUM COULD EASILY BE THE DAKTYLIDES FAMILY MOTTO.

Former bus driver George and his wife Eleftheria have devoted four decades to creating the most famous hotel group on Mykonos.

Today, their four sons Marcos, Marios, Panos and Vangelis are in charge, each managing one or more of the family’s hotels, three of which are Relais & Châteaux members: the Korali, the Utopia and - most famous the Ambassador on the south coast of the island.Opened in 1992 overlooking the bay of Platis Gialos, the hotel was the first 5-star on Mykonos. Backing onto the hillside, the original building has been extended over the years,

CONCIERGE OUR TOP 10

10 hot spots in Athens

and now offers sixty-nine rooms and suites with sea-view balconies and terraces. In 2015, its General Manager Vangelis - the eldest of the Daktylides brothers - commissioned architect Galal Mahmoud to remodel the entire hotel. “Galal and his family have been vacationing here for twenty years, so he knows the Ambassador pretty well!,” says Vangelis Daktylides. “The idea was to create more space, even if it meant removing partition walls, and to create surprises, like presenting shower enclosures in the center of the bedroom as if they were sculptures.”

The result is a lot more than simply seductive: a profusion of white with touches of blue and yellow - what could be more classical

2. RELIVE ANTIQUITY AMONG CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE

At the foot of the Acropolis, the spectacular Acropolis Museum is itself built on columns, and showcases ten centuries of art history through sculptures from the neighboring hillside.

The light-filled concrete, marble and glass building puts this collection of art from antiquity in an incredibly modern context. The result is quite simply mind-blowing.

1. FILL UP WITH JAZZ AT THE GASWORKS

The former industrial neighborhood of Gazi is now one of the coolest in town.

Bars, restaurants and art galleries have sprung up around this former gasworks now converted into an arts center. Keep a close eye on the program for upcoming concerts and the Street Food Festival.

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(or more Greek) than the color pallet adopted by this Lebanese architect?

But in reality, Galal Mahmoud has applied a different treatment and style to every room at the Myconian Ambassador.

In the bedrooms, it’s all about transparency in the style of mini loft apartments or immaculate cocoons: floor areas are punctuated here and there by low stone walls, beds are complemented by a whitelimed roped bedside table, while a large basket woven by a local basket maker enhances the sleek decorative style.

But the public areas of the hotel are all about the extravagant use of color.

And it’s the clubbing, arty face of Mykonos

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that sparkles in the restaurant and bar.

From the giant sculptures to the large-format canvases, everything here is for sale, except the furniture, which nevertheless seems to echo this chromatic extravagance. “I may be a fan of contemporary art,” explains Vangelis Daktylides. “But that doesn’t mean I can’t embrace tradition too. And when it comes to food, I’m locavore wherever possible.

Nico has brought us his catch of the day every morning for the past thirty years. That means our guests are guaranteed absolute freshness.”

In the hotel kitchen, Chef Panos Papadopoulos faces a significant culinary challenge: very few vegetables can be grown successfully on this island where the sun

4. STROLL THROUGH THE FLEA MARKET

3. WELLNESS ON A PLATE

Opened last spring, Cherchez la femme may have a French name, but this new restaurant is all about local produce and recipes, including tabbouleh with grilled pine nuts and minted meatballs and salad (Greek, of course!).

This neo-brasserie decorated in 19th century style has already been enthusiastically embraced

by Athenians.

There are two absolutely essential things to do on a Sunday in Athens... Watch the changing of the fustanellawearing guard outside the parliament building at the end of the morning, and walk around the Avissinias square flea market in Monastiráki. Prints, porcelain and vintage jewelry: a great deal of searching to be done, and just as much haggling when you find what you want!

5. TRACK DOWN SOME GREAT DESIGN

In this 1930s house, fashion designer Marilena Emmanouil has created Philos, the most sophisticated concept store in Athens.

On three upstairs floors, she offers a curated selection of furniture, fashion and art objects by international designers.

On the ground floor, enjoy one of the best cups of coffee in town.

CUISINE SAVOUR

The Rarest of Greek Tomatoes Cultivated since 1875, the Santorini tomato is a warrior.

Inundated by sunlight and cruelly lacking water (with only the morning dew to quench its thirst), this intensely sweet tomato variety is a source of local pride. on the dazzling port of Oia, at Sunset Tavern, or in the center of the island, in the village of Pyrgos, at the restaurant Selene.

Two other local specialties are also celebrated here: the fava, a type of white lentil that has been growing here for five centuries, and the young leaves of wild capers, which are slipped into salads with feta.

Catch of the Day: guaranteed ultra-fresh for guests

GUILLAUME CROUZET Gastronomy chronicler, film critic, society reporter and lifestyle blogger.

He founded Elle à Table magazine and helped launch Express Styles.

He currently contributes to a number of print and online magazines.

The bay of Platis Gialos in the south of Mykonos

shines 300 days of the year and the sirocco and meltemi winds blow strong.

So he has to source his produce from the neighboring islands and mainland Greece. What’s his signature style?

Organic salads for the room service menu and a touch of fusion in the restaurant.

Despite its reputation as an overcrowded tourist destination - ever since Jackie Onassis put it on the tourist map in the 1960s - this small block of granite in the Aegean Sea still has great beauty to offer its discerning guests. To enjoy Mykonos to the full, forget the summer and its unremitting crowds. Opt instead for pre-season or post-season: May, June, September or October. Vangelis Daktylides

agrees: “The weather here is kinder then.

And visitors will rediscover a side of Mykonos that’s less jet-set and much more family oriented. I love it!”

MYCONIAN AMBASSADOR THALASSO SPA P.O. Box 64, Platis Gialos, 84600 Mykonos Tel.: +30 2289 024 166 myconianambassador.gr MYCONIAN KORALI Aggelika, 84600 Mykonos Tel.: +30 2289 022 107 myconiankorali.gr MYCONIAN UTOPIA RESORT Elia Beach, 84600 Mykonos Tel.: +30 2289 076 060 myconianutopia.gr

A coveted juice-packed delight

SINCE BEING AWARDED WITH A PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION (PGI), THE CULTIVATION OF THIS TOMATO HAS BEEN EXPERIENCING A FULL RESURGENCE ON THE ISLAND.

This little fruit owes much to the Bolshevik revolution.

With the fall of the tsar, the exporting of Greek wines to Russia, its principal client, stopped completely.

As such, these tomatoes, which had been grown here for forty years, became Santorini’s main source of agricultural revenue.

Yannis Nomikos is today one of the farmers who has put these small, meaty fruits back into the limelight.

“The climatic conditions here are so difficult that the plants grow close to the ground to avoid the wind and only

6. SHOP WITH THE SHEPHERDS

Leather straps, hundreds of steel and bronze bells, and all the gear a rancher might need... Mompso is a one-of-a-kind store.

It also sells the famous klitsa, the traditional carved-handle stick used by Greek shepherds (€18 for the maple version).

A new take on travel souvenirs.

Among the local dishes featuring these fresh tomatoes, the star is obviously the tomatokeftedes, tomato fritters.

They are the crowing jewel of the meze that can be enjoyed for a few euros

Puree is always on the menu at the museum

9. HIT THE ROAD TO FIND STREET ART

7. SEE THE STARS BENEATH THE STARS

We love Thisio, the open-air cinema created in 1935 - the year in which its current owner was born... Between April and October, its red chairs are the place to sit and enjoy the latest Hollywood movies in their original version.

The screen is mounted on an ivy-covered wall, cats wander about between the legs of the audience and, as the backdrop, the Parthenon shines in the light of the moon.

produce small cherry-sized tomatoes, but with a highly concentrated sweetness.”

Yannis is so proud of this tomato that he has nicknamed it “my red jewel”. Son of three generations of local winemakers, he gladly opens the gates of his farm to visitors. “Here, the yield is more than just slim”, explains Yannis. “I can produce only 500 kg per hectare, while large industrial farms can easily attain 40 tons...”

Although Yannis and his pals are now bringing the Santorini tomato back into style, this plant was the star of the island back in the 1920s. At that time, no less than ten factories used the fruit to produce tomato sauce. One of them - Nokimos in Vlychada is now the Tomato Industrial Museum. Built on the shore so that the tomatoes could be washed in seawater, this factory once produced 1.5 million cans every year.

Even the cans were made at the factory during winter.

This visit is highly interesting and will perfectly supplement your budding collection of tomato knowledge!

8. ENJOY A DRINK IN A SECRET GARDEN

Wooden tables, a handful of hammocks and a few fig trees... You’re at six d.o.g.s. This city center courtyard bar is open 365 nights of the year.

The younger generation of Athenians love it for its vibe and 30-cocktail menu.

Our favorite? The Vladimir: vodka, lemon juice and fig infusion.

Fancy a treasure hunt?

Few tourists ever venture into the ramshackle neighborhood of Metaxourgeío, but it’s definitely worth a look.

Here, the artists have taken over the faded walls to create their frescoes and stenciled art.

These narrow streets and courtyards are a fabulous gift for photographers.

10. SAY THANKS TO CORPORATE SPONSORS At the highest point of a 170-hectare park, this brand-new arts center is a gift from wealthy shipowner Stávros Niárchos to his city. Designed by architect Renzo Piano, the building houses the capital’s opera house, the national library and a lake where kayaking is free.

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TRAVEL TRAVEL JOURNAL

Reenergize in the mountains of Japan Nishimuraya Honkan is a haven of peace surrounded by volcanic spring waters 150 km from Osaka. Guests come here to enjoy the benefits of its onsen (volcanic spring water spas), its luxuriant Japanese garden and its subtle gourmet cuisine. Come with us on this photographic journey...

JOANN PAI Food and lifestyle photographer Joann shares her time between Vancouver and Paris.

She has journeyed all over the world working on lifestyle shoots and editorial assignements.

Instagram: @sliceofpai

Yukata-clad walkers on the main street of Kinosaki, lined with onsen spas.

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Opposite: starters for the kaiseki dinner of ten seasonal dishes prepared

by Head Chef Etsunobu Takahashi. His signature dishes include matsuba crab and tajima beef.

Right: the tree-lined garden accessed directly from hotel bedrooms is home to a fascinating range of species. It also conceals moss-covered statues and tropical fish ponds.

Lined with bamboo and resting on thousand-year-old rocks, this half-outdoor, half-indoor bath gives travelers staying at the ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) the opportunity to meditate alone in the open air.

At the poolside, it is compulsory to wear the yukata, a lightweight kimono also used as a bath robe. The ancient practice of onsen (bathing in spa water between 40°C and 50°C) was once akin to a quasi-religious ritual.

Today, this type of spa bathing has more therapeutic and relaxing overtones.

NISHIMURAYA HONKAN 469 Yushima, Kinosaki-cho, Tayooka 669-6101 Tel.: +81 (0)7 9632 2211 nishimuraya.ne.jp/honkan

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CUISINE SAVOUR

A sense of place in the Spice Islands Famous for its historic buildings and white sandy beaches, Zanzibar off the coast of Tanzania is an open invitation to discovery, lazy days and experiences that will fill your senses. For centuries, this island has been the natural home of spice growing.

Tamlin Wightman introduces us to its rich and generous culture.

THEY CALLED US THROUGH THE CHAOS, CREATED A CLEARING IN WHICH WE SUDDENLY KNEW THE WAY.

Following their signs, I felt unfettered by the shoulders rubbing against mine and the bare feet and shoes stepping in the puddles around me.

I had thought that I was here for beaches and blue waters, but I suddenly saw the bigger picture, the depth of this place people call the Spice Islands.

Here in the Dharajani Market in Stone Town, Zanzibar, a market built in 1904, I saw a culture and history rich in traditions and customs that would color 6

the rest of my days here. I saw the rows and rows of spices. Loose powder in baskets or packaged in sealed plastic bags. Whole roots and sticks hanging from the frames of each market stall.

I saw oil extracts lingering in bottles big and small.

I saw the deep reds and oranges and blacks.

But more importantly, I smelt their persuasive power, their aroma waking up my tired traveler’s mind and body and bringing me right back to the present.

And there, in the here and now, stood a man with nimble hands and kind eyes but a mouth that didn’t

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Everyday life in Tanzania

The Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa

A minimalist take on lobster at Doors to Zanzibar

stop working. He told me the name and health benefit of each and every spice that lay across the table in front of us. He handed me cloves and black pepper, saffron and cumin, turmeric and ginger, paprika and cardamom, lemongrass, masala, vanilla, mango, banana and flavor-infused teas and coffees.

He took my hand and shook it as we agreed a price for five selected treasures. I would drink masala

“I realized that the spices were much more than just flavors and fragrances to please the senses” tea and vanilla coffee for months. And the scent of lemongrass would follow me everywhere.

We said our goodbyes, and I followed the call of other fragrances floating through the air of this busy market. But after that very special encounter, it all began to make sense. I understood the landscapes I’d driven through from the airport to my hotel, the Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa in Paje.

The meals I’d enjoyed beneath the bougainvillea looking out over the Indian Ocean, and the coconut oil, cinnamon and clove oil massages administered

Irresistible coffee beans in Darajani market

Luxuriant greenery and white sand line the hotel pathways

by Suzanne... I realized that the spices were much more than just flavors and fragrances to please the senses. I learned of their significance in the country’s economy, the role they’ve played in this island and in the personal stories of everyone I’ve met, and their place in the health and wellness of the land and its people.

Strolling through Stone Town, talking to people and breathing in their stories, and the scents, sounds and sights, I found a true sense of place. Spices had brought us all here. Spices, I realized, were as much a part of Zanzibar as the ocean and its beaches, and that to really live the experience of this faraway island as a newcomer, you had to savor the sight, taste, smell and touch of each.

“Best I book another massage”, I thought to myself as we emerged from the maze of alleyways and ruins into an increasingly tranquil atmosphere as we moved away from the heart of the country.

The heart of the Spice Islands.

TAMLIN WIGHTMAN Based in Cape Town, South Africa, Tamlin Wightman is an experienced travel writer and photographer in search of the spirit at the heart of her subjects.

ZANZIBAR WHITE SAND LUXURY VILLAS & SPA Paje Beach, Paje, Zanzibar Tel.: +255 776 263 451 whitesandvillas.com

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CUISINE SAVOUR

All the tastes of Lake Annecy On top of a hill overlooking the beautiful Lake Annecy lies Clos des Sens, a charming property run by the Petit family.

Their 2- star Michelin restaurant attracts not only locals but also visitors around the world.

THE ENTRANCE TO CLOS DES SENS DISPLAYS PART OF THE HERB GARDEN, WHERE THEY GROW 40 DIFFERENT TYPES OF HERBS.

needles. The wood panels that make up the walls of the dining room are larch, spruce, and ash, the three types of local trees, and sculptured with fire, an ancient Japanese technique to preserve wood.

The garden continues to the back of the property, where I spotted a cook collecting herbs in preparation for dinner service. With a focus on local ingredients, including herbs grown on property, seafood from 3 neighboring lakes (Annecy, Geneva, Bourget), mountain cheeses, chef Laurent Petit gives your senses a tour of this magnificent region.

Dinner service began with amuse bouches that help set the premise of the meal- local products, connected to nature.

Perch 2 ways, delicate and fried, fera with its caviar, and ‘les aromates’, 30 different herbs from their garden to freshen your palette.

Intrigued by what they had, I circled the property for a look.

They even grow their own schezuan peppers!

I check into my cozy room, where I sat by the fire and flipped through Petit’s cookbook in anticipation of tonight’s dinner. The room was equipped with a hot tub but I decided to take advantage of the nice weather and head to the pool for a quick swim. Worked up an appetite and relaxed in their Nordic style hot tub.

Before the arrival of our first dish, we were presented with live crayfish caught earlier that day, because the most famous signature dish of Laurent Petit is crayfish five ways: in a ‘tea’, with savory cream, in stock, tartare and with a lace tuile. The result is so delicate and flavorful that as you eat it, you taste all his creativity, his technique and his dedication to bringing out the best of these ingredients.

As I entered the dining room, the golden light poured into the space. I watched the remainder of the sun set over Lake Annecy while enjoying an aperitif of water infused with pine

This is followed by fera torched with a chicken jus glaze.

Chef Laurent Petit explains to me that in French meals, the main course traditionally concludes with meat.

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LE CLOS DES SENS 13, rue Jean-Mermoz 74940 Annecy-Le-Vieux Tel.: +33 (0)4 50 23 07 90 closdessens.com

COMMITMENTS SAVING THE OCEANS

All is good in a fish!

Every June, Relais & Châteaux hosts the Exquisite Fish lunch at the water’s edge to celebrate World Oceans Day. To mark this occasion, chef and keen angler Christopher Coutanceau and fish merchant Cédric Gonzales share their passion for the ocean with Sophie Cornibert, and explain what they are doing to promote sustainable fishing.

Crayfish presented live before serving

In the boxes lie seasonal fish caught at maturity to ensure that they have had time to breed

SOPHIE CORNIBERT After completing her studies in cinema, Sophie embarked on the path of cooking. Today, she’s an events organizer and founded Fulgurances l’Adresse with two partners to continue the good work of showcasing the artisans she respects so much via her foody stories and pithy posts.

WHAT IS YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH THE OCEAN?

More than 30 different types of Savoie cheese

So he has chosen to glaze the fish with a chicken jus to achieve a similar effect.

The cheese is probably my favorite part of any French meal, and this one was epic: a cheese cart with between 30 and 40 regional cheeses - the Bleu de Termignon is particularly divine. The meal ended with three desserts. Rising heavily from the table, I struggled back to my room!

After a restful night, I rose slowly and headed downstairs for a breakfast of regional produce: pastries, yogurts, homemade jams, ham, cheeses and seasonal fruits.

And so my stay came to a perfect conclusion.

Joann Pai

Christopher Coutanceau: I fish whenever I have some free time. Sea bass, meagre, gilt-head bream... all I do is grill them - nothing more.

And then there’s the shore fishing, surfing and swimming. I can’t live without the ocean.

Look... you can’t take your eyes off it!

TELL US ABOUT YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR FISH MERCHANTS....

C. C.: I come from a family of restaurateurs.

I’ve known the Gonzales family since I was three-years-old, and their son is a close friend of mine. We’ve never chosen to use any fish or shellfish other than theirs, which they catch off the Île d’Oléron and Île de Ré. We trust each other and we speak the same language.

They save me the fleshiest fish and langoustines that are still rattling around in their pots. Going to see them every morning and choosing fish with them is always a very special time for me.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE FISH AND HOW DO YOU LIKE TO PREPARE THEM?

The talented (and smiley) chef Laurent Petit, who runs the restaurant with his wife Martine

C. C.: I work with whatever species of fish are available on the day. Sea bream, young meagre, hake… whatever inspires me, I put on the menu.

I use only fish that aren’t endangered and have reached adult size, but above all, I work with the seasons. So, for example, the perfect size for a sea bass is 20 inches. They breed in May, and November is the ideal time to eat them.

I love them very plain or raw in carpaccio, for example. And there are also brill, line-caught pollock and scallops. I don’t really have a favorite part of the fish either. Whether it’s the fleshy tongue of a hake or its cheeks, turbot beards, a wonderful fillet of sea bass, its crispy skin, or even its bones to make a delicate sauce... every part of a fish can be used.

DO YOU HAVE ANY TRICKS OF THE TRADE YOU COULD SHARE WITH US?

C. C.: When you’re at the fish stall, you should always choose line-caught fish. Then make sure that it’s really stiff with a bright eye and bright red gills. The fresher the fish, the more its flesh will have a pearly sheen; sometimes it can even be rainbow-like. With sea bass, for example, ask the fishmonger to fillet it, but leave the skin on.

And then grill it on the skin side, because that will bring out the flavor and keep the taste of the sea.

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT WHAT YOU DO…

Cédric Gonzales: Fish merchants act as the intermediaries between fishermen and restaurant owners, because it’s against the law for fishermen to sell directly. We buy the fish at auction based on the boats that caught them, and avoid fish from deep-sea trawlers. Our job is to select seasonal fish, and whenever possible adult fish, so that we know they’ve had time to breed. I’ve been a fish merchant since I was 14.

It’s what I’ve always done and I love it. But with all of the health regulations now, it’s a harder job than it used to be. For example, we have to pack everything in ice. The problem is that packing langoustines in ice kills them. But luckily, we have a great relationship with restaurant owners, so it’s rewarding to try and find them the best fish and be amazed at what they do with it.

WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE AN ETHICALLY RESPONSIBLE FISH MERCHANT?

C. G.: It means doing everything you can to sell only the best seasonal and line-caught fish.

Sometimes that means we need to educate our customers. We have to explain why we sell mussels only between July and October. Or that we’re happy to wait for winter to eat scallops!

There should be appellations for fish in the same way as there are for wines. That would make so much more sense.

RESTAURANT CHRISTOPHER COUTANCEAU Plage de la Concurrence 17000 La Rochelle Tel.: +33 (0)5 46 41 48 19 coutanceaularochelle.com

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Pink flatid leaf bugs... cousins of the cicada

CBlissful poolside peace

TRAVEL POINT OF VIEW

The call of the wild It’s impossible to resist, and never more so when the natural world is as vibrant as it is in Madagascar, one of the last unspoiled habitats on Earth. We visit the Anjajavy reserve in the north-west of the island to satisfy this mysterious need and desire for discovery.

The wooden path to happiness

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“The lemurs jump from tree to tree at tea time” As you step down onto the airstrip and get into the 4x4 that will take you to your villa, it feels as though you couldn’t get closer to the end of the world if you tried.

But before you get there, you must travel through a magnificent forest of deciduous trees on a journey that will be your first encounter with the local wildlife: lemurs swing from branch to branch beside you and zebu cattle block the road ahead in a battle of horns. The Madagascan fish eagle calls out from one of the island’s seven species of baobab, and giant chameleons eyeball you from the forest floor.

Including sea, forest, mangrove and savannah, the 7,200-hectare Anjajavy reserve is a protected area and it’s a wilderness that presents no threat.

Sifaka dance across the lawn in front of the lodge veranda in the early morning and late afternoon.

The lemurs jump from tree to tree at tea time; between the towering bamboos, papyrus, tree ferns, creepers and rare palm trees in the Oasis.

the opportunity of seeing the direct results of your efforts in the community and nature. I love the feeling of achievement it brings, especially in biodiversity conservation, sustainable development and cultural integration. Sharing it with guests in a beautiful nature reserve along deserted beaches is a blessing.”

Anjajavy l’Hôtel’s custody over the terrain extends to the people. The team has collaborated in setting up a secondary school, a hospital, a market, a security post, a women’s craft center, environmental education classes, and alternative job opportunities in the neighboring village.

“The lodge will also be funding the construction of public bathrooms, a secondary school library and a well in the local village,” explains Cédric de Foucault. “Our clinic provides support to midwives and emergency medical services for the four neighboring villages. These projects are discussed at length with village representatives.”

Anjajavy l’Hôtel employs only local Malagasy people, so to uplift the area and create a relationship of harmony and trust with the villagers who have lived there for longer. It is a relationship much like the pair of baobabs wrapped around each other in Moramba Bay, a short boat ride from the lodge – two ancient trees entwined as though in an embrace, standing stronger in this isolated wilderness because they are together.

Tamlin Wightman

The animals draw near, but they never touch and nor do we. We simply stand by and marvel, admire, giggle. We ogle the Souimanga Sunbirds, Malagasy Kingfishers and Malagasy Paradise Flycatchers for hours. Live and let live is the law of the land.

In the expanse of blue that stretches from a private beach, we head down, snorkeling gear allowing us to feel at one with the fish. The silence below and the rich life that flourishes in this protected marine reserve provides the mystery and the sense of the unknown, that we are in pursuit of and in need of.

ANJAJAVY L’HÔTEL Longitude 47° East, latitude 15° South Tel.: +261 (0)20 23 327 59 anjajavy.com

©JACQUI HEMPHILL

Lodge General Manager Cédric de Foucault shares his vision of this place: “Working long term in such a remote, semi-closed environment gives you

NATURE DOES THINGS WELL... QUITE SIMPLY BECAUSE IT’S THERE, EVERYWHERE, LIKE A CONCENTRATED SOURCE OF VITALITY WITHIN HAND’S REACH,

to echo these lines from Thoreau’s Walden; or, Life in the Woods: “We need the tonic of wildness.

At the same time that we are earnest to explore and learn all things, we require that all things be mysterious and unexplorable, that land and sea be indefinitely wild, unsurveyed and unfathomed by us because unfathomable.

We can never have enough of nature.”

Untamed and remote: that’s the promise that attracts stressed urbanites - and others to the natural haven that is home to Anjajavy l’Hôtel on the north-west edge of the island of Madagascar in the Indian Ocean. Accessible only by plane (there’s no road), the lodge is a two-hour flight from the capital of Antananarivo.

A chameleon mimics the changing colors of Madagascan flora

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CONCIERGE KID-FRIENDLY

5 open-air kids-friendly adventures How do you keep kids in search of adventure happy at the same time as delighting their parents? Right around the world, Relais & Châteaux members offer vacations and breaks with kids-friendly activities as standard.

MEET THE GARDENER AT THE FOOT OF TENNESSEE’S GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS.

Tennessee isn’t just about country music; it’s also about peace and quiet in the Great Smoky Mountains. Blackberry Farm is a traditional American-style farm offering a luxury, kids-friendly service.

They’ll love playing cowboys on horseback treks, learning archery or kayaking on the quiet waters of Hesse Creek. And after a full-on day of adventure, follow the guide to discover the vegetable garden and enjoy the delicious fruits of the orchard.

BLACKBERRY FARM 1471 West Millers Cove Road, Walland, Tennessee 37886, USA Tel.: +1 865 984 8166 blackberryfarm.com

FLY HIGH OVER TUSCANY BY BALLOON.

Time seems to stand still somewhere between contemporary luxury and medieval heritage in this superb 700-hectare estate at Il Borro in Tuscany.

Explore the hidden treasures of this thousand-year-old village, horseback ride through the countryside, brush up your painting skills with the kids in the art workshops or, for the more adventurous, take to the skies by balloon to marvel at the sublime Arno Valley below.

IL BORRO Località Borro 1, 52024 San Giustino Valdarno, Italy Tel.: +39 055 977 053 ilborro.it

WATCH THE WHALES IN ARDMORE BAY, IRELAND. Perched high on a cliff

TEASE THE GIANT TORTOISES OF PRISON ISLAND IN ZANZIBAR. Live a unique

MARIE FAUREAMBROISE Lifestyle journalist Marie has turned the page of women’s titles to create the family travel focused My Travel Dreams website.

Today, she travels the world with her tribe to discover the best places on the planet.

experience in an ultra-luxurious resort: the Zanzibar White Sand. Kick off your shoes, explore this white paradise surrounded by tropical nature on the edge of the Indian Ocean, and enjoy exquisite local cuisine.

Take your mini-castaways on a trip to meet the giant tortoises of Prison Island, or perhaps on a Sea Safari to swim with the dolphins.

ZANZIBAR WHITE SAND LUXURY VILLAS & SPA Paje Beach, Paje, Zanzibar, Tanzania Tel.: +255 776 263 451 whitesandvillas.com

TAKE A GUIDED HIKE IN THE DOLOMITES.

This 5-star hotel in the center of Ortiseiin the Val Gardena will satisfy all your cravings for open-air adventure. The Gardena Grödnerhof offers an enormous choice of outdoor activities: from via ferrata to guided hikes designed to make sure that you miss none of the splendors of the world’s most fascinating Alpine landscapes.

In winter, you’ll be as close as possible to the slopes, and your instructor will introduce you and your family to the must-ski runs of the Dolomites.

HOTEL GARDENA GRÖDNERHOF Via Vidalong, 3, 39046 Ortisei, Italy Tel.: +39 0471 796 315 gardena.it

with incredible views of Ardmore Bay, the Cliff House Hotel is an amazing place.

Its direct access to the sea means lots of open-air activities to enjoy with the kids, from surfing and kayaking to fishing and whale watching. You can also explore the surrounding countryside and discover Irish culture with a visit to Lismore Castle or the historic center of Cork.

Back at the hotel, let yourself be rocked to sleep by the sound of the waves breaking on the rocks below.

CLIFF HOUSE HOTEL Middle Road, Ardmore, Co. Waterford, Ireland Tel.: +353 24 87800 cliffhousehotel.ie

SECTIONS TRAVEL (EN) VOYAGE (FR) CUISINE (EN) CUISINE (FR) COMMITMENTS (EN) ENGAGEMENTS (FR)

CONCIERGE (EN) CONCIERGE (FR) 12

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Philippe Gombert

MANAGING EDITOR Isabelle Mical

ART DIRECTION Yorgo & Co

LAYOUT

Virginie Oudard

EDITORIAL COORDINATION Les Digitalistes

Issue 5 - Spring/Summer 2018

CONTRIBUTORS

Sophie Cornibert, Guillaume Crouzet, Marie Faure-Ambroise, Joann Pai and Tamlin Wightman

PHOTO CREDITS

Dandelion Photography UK London, Francis Hammond, Jacqui Hemphill, Joann Pai, Tamlin Wightman, Blackberry Farm, Anjajavy l’Hôtel, Le Clos des Sens, Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa, Nishimuraya Honkan, Myconian Ambassador, All rights reserved

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