Instants #06 - English edition

The Relais & Châteaux magazine Issue 6 Fall-Winter 2018 relaischateaux.com/magazine #relaischateauxmagazine

Canadian mountain refuge Off to Alberta's Rockies for a winter vacation in the depths of a luxurious nature reserve where the natural world is cherished and conserved. pages 2-3

TRAVEL

COMMITMENTS

TRAVEL

A lesson in elegance at Cliveden House

Food for Change: Climate change also affects the food on our plates

Guatemala, land of color

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pages 6-7

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A hotel breakfast with mountain views

A cozy cocoon of a bedroom

The incredible purity of Lake Emerald is an invitation to contemplation

TRAVEL

The pinnacle of beauty in the Rockies After the short flight from Vancouver to Calgary, our travelling photographer Joann Pai and her friend Tina hit the road to Banff National Park and the Post Hotel managed by the Schwartz family in Lake Louise. She tells us all about her multifaceted stay at the heart of pristine beauty in Western Canada.

SEEING THESE IMPOSING MOUNTAINS SO CLOSE UP WAS SURREAL! When we arrived at the Post Hotel in Lake

Relax with breathtaking views in the whirlpool

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Louise, the Schwartz family gave us the warmest welcome ever. The decor is extremely cozy, with large fireplaces and comfortable couches all over the property. It was hard to work up any enthusiasm for going back out into the cold. But eventually, and not without some reluctance, we extracted ourselves from the super-soft cushions and headed out to explore. As evening fell, we returned to the Post Hotel to relax and warm up.

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We went for a swim and a dip in the hot tub, before enjoying a drink by the fire in the piano lounge.

To complete the impression of being in a Swiss chalet, the head chef Hans Sauter actually is from Switzerland. We could hardly wait to test out the hotel’s fondue restaurant. And having heard a lot about their impressive wine cellar, I asked for a guided tour. It boasts 25,000 bottles, and more than 2,300 different wines. It’s actually one of the most comprehensive collections in the country.

It was hard to decide between the three types

TRAVEL

Ski the world’s most legendary slopes The very mention of their names excites all skiers, but did you know that some of the most coveted slopes are within easy reach of Relais & Châteaux hotels?

Discover them all by combining sport with relaxation.

Warm wood and super-comfortable couches: make yourself at home

FOR MOGUL ADDICTS USA: SCARLETT’S RUN, ASPEN

FOR ADRENALINE JUNKIES ITALY: THE VENTINA RUN, BREUIL-CERVINIA

FOR NATURE LOVERS SWITZERLAND: THE DIAVOLEZZA RUN, PONTRESINA

FOR FOREST LOVERS AUSTRIA: THE WURMKOGL RUN, OBERGURGL-HOCHGURGL

One of the high temples of mogul skiing, the Scarlett's Run descent offers technical skiers a real kick, but it’s not just for specialists, because its moguls are more widely spaced than they seem at first glance, and the gradient is moderate. Adventures like these make the comforts of The Little Nell, its Jacuzzi and bedroom fireplaces all the more welcome. Its Master Sommelier Carlton McCoy is an enthusiastic expert on the wines of Burgundy, and will find you the ideal wine to end your day from his cellar of 20,000 bottles.

At nearly 3,500 meters altitude, launch yourself into 11 kilometers of red run adrenaline rush. One of the most famous runs in Italy, the Ventina alternates glaciers with walls and flat sections, making it one of the country’s most beautiful as well. The Hermitage Hotel & Spa offers courageous skiers well-earned spa treatments with spectacular views of the Matterhorn. Its chef Roberto Pession performs minor miracles with delicious surf-and-turf marriages, including an unforgettable bacon-wrapped lobster.

After the magical experience of Johnston Creek, indulge yourself in a delicious cheese fondue

of fondue offered here: traditional cheese, fondue chinoise and fondue bourguignonne. Eventually though, the thought of melted cheese won out. After the meal, we retired to our cozy room and spent the rest of the evening chatting by the fire with a bottle of red wine.

Seeing the Canadian Rockies in person was even more impressive than we’d imagined. And the experience was made even better by the Post House family.

There are so many amazing vantage points, lakes and incredible hiking trails around the hotel, but here are our top attractions close to the Post Hotel:

JOANN PAI is a food & lifestyle photographer who shares her time between Vancouver and Paris. She travels the world on lifestyle shoots and editorial assignments. @sliceofpai

This ‘She-Devil’ doesn’t really live up to her name, because what awaits you is a truly divine experience. And it’s not too difficult to access that experience, because she’s equivalent to a red run. This 10-kilometer glacier descent is the longest in Switzerland, and boasts unforgettable views of Piz Palü. It's also an experience to be savored by staying at the Hotel Walther, with its enormous 700 square meter spa through which a natural waterfall flows. The Cristallino is the only place in Europe where you can relax in a cave carved from the green granite of a mountain.

Through the forest, fly down what sometimes seems like a giant toboggan run. It will take you straight to the Top Hotel Hochgurgl, one of the highest Relais & Châteaux hotels in the world at 2,150 meters altitude. Its heated outdoor pool is all the more welcome when you’ve just completed this run. But on no account miss out on the Top Mountain Star restaurant perched on the mountain peak at 3,080 meters above sea level, with spectacular views of the Ötztal Alps and even the Dolomites to the south...

Lake Louise: Its superb turquoise color attracts tourists from all over the world. While we were there, it was entirely frozen and covered in snow.

Emerald Lake: Sublimely beautiful, and much less visited by tourists than Lake Louise. It’s about 15 minutes from the hotel.

Johnston Creek: A short, easy hike that takes you to a waterfall, which was partially frozen when we were there. Such a cool sight! Remember to bring appropriate footwear - unlike me in my white sneakers - because the path can be icy in the winter.

POST HOTEL & SPA 200, Pipestone Road, Lake Louise, Canada Tel.: +1 403 522 3989 www.posthotel.com

FOR GROWN-UP KIDS GERMANY: THE WALLBERG LUGE RUN, ROTTACH-EGERN

FOR EXPERT SKIERS FRANCE: THE VERTE DES HOUCHES RUN

Leave your skis in the rack and lie back... On a luge! Launch yourself on a 6.5 kilometer descent that’s 100% unforgettable, because this is one of the very longest luge runs anywhere.

Then you can warm up at the Park-Hotel Egerner Höfe with its warm wood-clad interiors and oh-so-cozy rooms.

With a long history of environmental commitment, this hotel was the first in the country to receive the German sustainability award, and sources 80% of its food within 80 kilometers of the hotel.

‘Green’ in name only, this Chamonix valley black run is for only the very best skiers. Skiing its 3,400 meters is pure pleasure, especially since large stretches run between pine woods!

To unwind afterwards, there’s the Hameau Albert 1 hotel, with its sophisticated mix of Alpine tradition and sumptuous spa. The two Michelin star hotel restaurant is irresistible. Here, Pierre Maillet offers a style of cuisine that manages to be simultaneously simple and sublime, with dishes like scallops served on vegetable carpaccio.

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TRAVEL

The rooms are laid-out like small chalets, you feel the family history is combined with modern luxury and some boast even their own fireplaces.

At the midpoint of the town’s main street, the Gasthof Post has been family owned for more than 80 years, and a proud member of Relais & Chateaux for over 40 years.

Lech is an enchanting village in the Austrian Alps, famous for having one of the highest Alpine snowfalls.

This magnificent ski resort has it all.

An Alpine dream come true: antiques and pieces collected over the years, cozy corners and discretely welcoming staff dressed in beautiful traditional Austrian costume.

GASTHOF POST Dorf 11, 6764 Lech, Austria Tel.: +43 5583 22060 www.postlech.com

Legendary hotels in the Austrian Alps Dutch duo Arturo Bamboo have embarked on a new intimate getaway scheme, camera in hand. This time, they immortalize some legendary winter destinations in the Austrian Alps: the historic Gasthof Post in Lech and the irresistible Tennerhof at Kitzbühel in the Austrian Tyrol.

Stroll through the multicolored houses of Kitzbühel, where ladies still love to flaunt their furs... It’s like turning back time.

In the morning, the view over the picturesque town of Kitzbühel was dreamy with the foggy and snowy weather.

The charmingly traditional Tennerhof Hotel boasts panoramic views over the town, the legendary Hahnenkamm and the surrounding mountains.

ARTURO BAMBOO Berlin-based photographers and art directors Arthur Groeneveld and Bamboo Van Kampen work together as Arturo Bamboo. They have also launched their beachwear label BAMBOO, co-founded the creative consulting collective 1kg, and also work as trend forecasters. @arturobamboo

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TENNERHOF GOURMET & SPA DE CHARME HOTEL Griesenauweg 26, 6370 Kitzbühel, Austria Tel.: +43 5356 63181 www.tennerhof.com

TRAVEL

Cliveden House: A Lesson in Elegance It may remind you of the stately homes featured in the television series Downton Abbey, but the history and heritage of Cliveden House go way beyond anything you’ve seen in that TV drama. This extraordinary hotel of rare beauty is the place for anyone who has ever dreamed of spending a night in a museum.

CLIVEDEN HOUSE IS JUST 30 MINUTES FROM LONDON

BY TRAIN, YET TRANSPORTS EVERY GUEST FAR INTO THE PAST. There is unimaginable treasure

in this enormous estate in the village of Taplow.

As you pass through the gates, the majestic driveway to the house sets the tone. Cliveden House is much more than simply a hotel; it is a time machine.

and his wife. Their boundless wealth allowed them to fill the house with art collections, books, objects d’art and sumptuous furniture. Although it became a hotel a few years ago, Cliveden remains the property of the National Trust, following its bequest by the Astor family to this body, which is responsible for the UK’s most high-profile heritage buildings.

Originally built as a hunting lodge for the second Duke of Buckingham in the 17th century, Cliveden House became notorious as the backdrop for its owner’s many conquests. Over the course of the 18th century, costume balls and unforgettable parties were held here and attended by luminaries of the arts, including Georg Handel and Thomas Arne. But the mansion was almost entirely destroyed by fire on two occasions; first in 1795, and then again in 1849 leaving only the cellars and the sumptuous front terrace of the original house. Charles Barry, the architect of London’s Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, was engaged to rebuild the house. Queen Victoria loved to spend her weekends here, traveling to Cliveden by boat up the Thames.

But in the 20th century, Cliveden House took on a new dimension following its purchase by Waldorf Astor

Make sure you ask to tour all the buildings and the cellars, where you will see the bells that once summoned the servants to above stairs – each is a different size, enabling each member of staff to recognize their unique ring. Every room has its own spicy anecdotes and scandalous stories. Even the swimming pool is legendary, since it was on the edge of this pool that the Profumo scandal of the 1960s Cold War years began when Secretary of State for War John Profumo yielded to the charms of a young call-girl with secret ties to the Soviets. The revelation of that encounter shook the British government of the day to its foundations.

It is intriguing to imagine all the famous and not-sofamous names that have strolled around these grounds!

Even Meghan Markle chose to stay at Cliveden on the eve of her marriage to Prince Harry.

The hotel has successfully protected its heritage while offering the its guests the very highest levels of comfort. In André Garrett’s sublime restaurant, you’re likely to see honeymooning couples, conspicuously clandestine tête-à-têtes, families toasting an important anniversary, or young graduates celebrating their academic achievement with their parents. In the spa, you may well encounter groups of young ladies gathered for a bachelorette party with a glass (or two) of champagne in hand. On the weekend, the house is besieged by Londoners who come here for brunch at the Astor Grill. Proof that every square inch of Cliveden House is absolutely irresistible.

CLIVEDEN HOUSE Cliveden Road, Taplow SL6 0JF, United Kingdom Tel.: +44 1628 668561 www.clivedenhouse.co.uk

LILI BARBERY-COULON, A Paris-based journalist who has written as a beauty expert for Vogue Paris and M Le Monde magazines for several years, Lili is the creator of the Lilibarbery. com lifestyle blog, where she shares her favorite places and journeys with people from all over the world. @lilibarbery

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Slow Food Relais & Chateaux

Launched by Slow Food in 2017, the #FoodForChange campaign is designed to make action for countering climate change a part of everyday life. This ambition poses a very real challenge to the world’s cooks. Between October 4 and 7, the chefs of Relais et Châteaux are invited to take part in the international Menu For Change initiative to relay the essential message that combating climate change begins on the plate! By offering Slow Food approved menus that promote sustainable ingredients (local, seasonal and increasingly focused on vegetables), the organization is raising public awareness of the quality and provenance of each ingredient, and giving the work done by chefs greater resonance in all our daily lives.

COMMITMENTS

Food for Change: Climate change also affects the food on our plates What if gastronomy had the power to influence agriculture and every link in the food value chain? In giving their commitment to work alongside the Slow Food association, Relais & Châteaux chefs are supporting the move to good, clean, fair food on a daily basis. The Menu for Change initiative means that the plates of food they serve are now doing something practical to counter the tide of climate change.

30% OF GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSIONS ARE DIRECTLY RELATED TO THE FOOD WE EAT: livestock farming,

transportation and arable agriculture all have their ongoing effect. By changing that, we can all make our own practical contribution to combating climate change... And these chefs are leading by example.

Through their 2014 manifesto commitment to UNESCO, Relais & Châteaux members are taking positive action to protect the environment and local heritage. This battle is being fought alongside the Slow Food association formed in 1986 to promote good, clean and fair food, and whose commitments are shared by Relais & Châteaux. Because in this fight, everything is linked: using seasonal produce and favoring local producers is as good for flavor as it is for the planet. As Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini

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points out: “The food we put on our plates plays an even larger role in climate change than the cars we buy.”

To help the chefs quantify the carbon balance of the menu accurately, Bon pour le Climat (Good for Climate), the non-profit organization formed in 2014, provides an eco-calculator. Its President Jean-Luc Fessart details the key actions to be implemented: “The biggest impact comes from working with the seasons, so that we don’t import ingredients from the other side of the world. Then comes the need to drastically reduce the quantities of animal protein we consume, especially beef: the ideal balance is to reverse the traditional proportions so that two-thirds of a meal is vegetables, and onethird is meat or fish...” Nevertheless, local sourcing

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doesn’t necessarily exclude spices, chocolate or coffee: “For products like these, we apply the Marco Polo exception: where no substitute exists, we use small quantities.” Another area of reassessing and making maximum use of food, and one where the creativity of chefs is particularly welcome, is legumes.

“Beneficial not only to the soil, where they act as natural fertilizers, but also for our health, because they are rich in protein and fiber, lentils, chickpeas and beans suffer from a rather down-market image.”

By celebrating them in their dishes, Relais & Châteaux chefs are able to attract attention to these products and encourage people to eat them: this is a new responsibility for cooks, and one that makes them proactive stakeholders in food-related economic and social change.

ESTÉRELLE PAYANY Journalist, food critic and author.

Columnist for Télérama, Télérama Sortir and France Inter, she is also the author of some thirty books, including an Encyclopedia of Vegetarian Cuisine (Encyclopédie de la cuisine végétarienne, pub.

Flammarion). @esterelle

ZACHARY LADWIG, CHEF OF THE INN AT DOS BRISAS IN TEXAS (USA) “We’re lucky enough to be able to grow

THE INN AT DOS BRISAS 10000 Champion Dr, Washington, TX 77880, USA +1 979-277-7750 www.dosbrisas.com

SON BRULL HOTEL & SPA Crta. Palma - Puerto Pollença, Km 50, 07460 Pollença, Mallorca, Balearics Islands, Spain +34 971 53 53 53 www.sonbrull.com

more than a hundred types of produce ourselves, and because we do, we respect it that much more.

Having 32 different varieties of sweet potato means being able to taste them all, so our farm is a source of creativity and enthusiasm. Our Farm General Manager makes sure that many sentinel species included in the Slow Food Ark of Taste are conserved and protected here, including the Bourbon Red turkeys we serve at Thanksgiving, the Cherokee Purple tomato and even the Marseille Figs, which have been grown here since the 19th century. To make sure we have them all year round, we preserve them in white wine, honey and fennel, which makes them a fantastic accompaniment to veal sweetbreads with golden ball turnips.”

OLIVIER NASTI, CHEF AT LE CHAMBARD IN KAYSERSBERG (FRANCE) “Between 80 and 90% of the produce we use

comes from within a 20-mile radius. The snails from ‘Le Pré aux colimaçons’ run by the Huss family on the high slopes of the Kaysersberg valley are farmed using biodynamic principles on land weeded entirely by hand.

The taste of snails in garlic butter - a real and abiding memory of childhood - is reinterpreted in the form of a croquette finished with intensely green parsley breadcrumbs. I’ve also chosen to offer a vegetarian dish that showcases Alsace sauerkraut, which has just been awarded IGP status. I’m particularly fond of the new sauerkraut, which is tender and more colorful.

You really can deliver as much pleasure on the plate using vegetables as you can with meat or fish, and being constrained to working solely with vegetables has really opened my eyes!”

MAR SUAU (OWNER) AND RAFAEL PERELLÓ (CHEF) OF SON BRULL IN POLLENÇA (MALLORCA, SPAIN)

“We have embraced the values of Slow Food since 2010. Our responsibility as hotelier and cook is to play our part in ensuring the future of local producers and heritage varieties.

For the Food for Change menu, we’re preparing blinis made with Xeixa flour: this ancient variety of wheat originates in Mallorca, and had all but disappeared, but is now grown using biodynamic techniques. Its flour is dark and delicious. We’re also offering Barbary Fig sorbet. This fruit is part of our landscape, and is an absolute treasure. We also use it on a daily basis in our spa, because it forms the basis of the fresh, organic treatments we prepare ourselves... Just like a food recipe!”

LE CHAMBARD 9-13 Rue du Général de Gaulle, 68240 Kaysersberg-Vignoble, France +33 3 89 47 10 17 www.lechambard.fr

ANDREAS KROLIK, CHEF AT RESTAURANT LAFLEUR (GERMANY)

RESTAURANT LAFLEUR Palmengartenstraße 11, 60325 Frankfurt am Main, Germany +49 69 90029100 www.restaurant-lafleur.de

A member of Slow Food since 2007, chef Andreas Krolik acts to protect local species and biodiversity on a daily basis, mainly from the close relationships he maintains with all his producers, most of whom are committed to organic principles. “Whether wild or cultivated, the humble mushroom is both sustainable and delicious: the flexibility of its textures is stunning. Mushrooms make it possible to prepare a complete pallette of flavors and textures: spicy, semi-sour, umami, roasted, creamed, marinated, preserved... and more. Married with a squash ravioli, and served with cabbage and quinoa, a wild mushroom broth provides the link and depth necessary for a vegetarian dish, and bringing something very special to the «Menu for Change».

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Casa Palopó boasts incredible views of the famous Lake Atitlán

TRAVEL

Guatemala, land of color On the shores of Lake Atitlán, the ancient culture of the Maya is still very much alive in busy villages at the foot of towering volcanic peaks. Colorful and heavy with history, Casa Palopó enjoys amazing views over the lake and embodies the true spirit of Guatemala.

TRADITIONAL CRAFTS INTERPRET THE COUNTRY’S PAST AND PRESENT. Guatemala lies at the heart

of the ancient Mayan lands, and still asserts a wealth of centuries-old indigenous traditions. From brightly embroidered fabrics to hand-molded clay plates, the rich artisanal diversity of this country perpetuates the heritage bequeathed by the Mayan civilization, transforming even the humblest village market into a kaleidoscope of shimmering color. Although many of the techniques and patterns vary from 8

village to village, Casa Palopó features some of the finest examples of traditional craftsmanship from across the country.

Painstakingly embroidered Huipils (traditional women’s tunics) double as tablecloths in the hotel’s candle-lit terrace bar, wooden masks embellish the walls inside the historic main building, and each of the rooms has its own distinctive decorative style and artworks. In fact, Casa Palopó is a showcase for Guatemala’s unique arts and crafts.

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A rainbow of color on the terrace at Casa Palopó

Sun-ripened mangoes

The village of Santa Catarina Palopó has been repainted blue by its residents

The rooms are decorated in traditional craft style

COLORFUL VILLAGES REVEAL THEMSELVES AS LIVING WORKS OF ART. The hotel is located on the outskirts

of Santa Catarina Palopó, a lively village with dozens of deep blue houses and shop fronts decorated with eclectic Mayan patterns. Only a few years ago, Santa Catarina Palopó was still dominated by faded gray facades, but a community project initiated in 2016 by Harris and Melissa Whitbeck has

Casa Palopó features some of the finest examples of traditional craftsmanship from across the country transformed the village into an unmissable work of art.

The socially-driven “Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó” project sets out to inject splashes of bright color into the lakeside community, inviting donors and volunteers to help local families repaint their homes. The ultimate aim is to create an entirely blue village that mimics the turquoise of the lake, the color of the sky and the patterns of the traditional Huipil tunics.

Casa Palopó is one of the main project sponsors, and hotel guests with artistic talent are encouraged to pick up a paintbrush and support the cause.

THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF GUATEMALA: ALWAYS AMAZING.

A land of tropical rainforest, active volcanoes, overgrown ruins, lagoons and cobalt-blue lakes, Guatemala is as rich in natural attractions as it is in history. On the shores of one of the world’s most celebrated lakes (a favorite destination of writer Aldous Huxley, explorer Alexander von Humboldt and many others), Casa Palopó boasts awe-inspiring views of the region’s three famous volcanoes: Atitlán, Toliman and San Pedro. Everything here – from the panoramic infinity pool to the private lake-facing balconies of the bedrooms seems as if designed specifically to frame the surrounding natural world. Guests can enjoy a broad range of activities, from walking to the summit of San Pedro, watching the sunrise from the peak of Indian Nose, taking a boat ride across the vast lago, visiting artisan markets or simply marveling at the ever-changing and mysterious beauty of Lake Atitlán from one of Casa Palopó’s many terraces, cocktail in hand.

is one of Central America’s most varied and flavorful cuisines. In the hotel restaurant - 6.8 Palopó - the focus is on 100% freshness and offering Guatemala-inspired dishes with an inventive contemporary twist. Mornings at Casa Palopó begin with a hearty Guatemalan breakfast of eggs, fried plantain and corn tortillas, or lighter options, such as tropical fruit salads and bowls of Acai berries. The dinner menu is equally emphatic on the subject of local produce, with specialties such as Santa Catarina scallops, fresh-caught sea bass in jocón salsa and chilacayote squash crème brûlée, all vying for attention with the unparalleled sunset views over Lake Atitlán.

CASA PALOPÓ Carretera a San Antonio Palopó km 6.8, San Antonio Palopó 07011, Guatemala Tel.: +502 7762 2270 www.casapalopo.com

A DIVERSE CULINARY TRADITION SHAPED BY MAYAN AND MEDITERRANEAN INFLUENCES. The abundance

of fresh produce and tropical fruits makes Guatemalan cooking a journey into the country’s colonial and pre-colonial past. Corn, black beans and other indigenous ingredients once grown by the Mayans are paired with foods and flavors imported by the Spanish colonizers: the result

ANNICK WEBER Travel, lifestyle and design writer, Annick Weber is also the editor of a number of travel-related publications, including in-flight magazines and the annual Relais & Châteaux Guide.

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CUISINE

Exquisite cuisine deep in the woods The restaurant of this divinely renovated spa resort hotel at Lanaken in a Belgian national park holds 2 Michelin stars. It is in this sublime setting that chef Ralf Berendsen offers his virtuoso culinary creations.

Langoustine, north sea crab, green paprika, tandoori masala, coconut

LA BUTTE AUX BOIS COMPRISES THREE SEPARATE BUILDINGS: THE MANOR HOUSE, THE VILLA AND THE NEW LA FORÊT SPA RETREAT. The original manor

house was once the private home of the owner Sir Lagasse de Locht, who later converted it into a hotel with a fine dining restaurant known as La Source. In May 2017, the hotel gained an extension to house its La Forêt contemporary spa retreat. My adorably cozy room looks out to the internal garden of the manor house, and having unpacked my bags, the temptation to go back downstairs and test the new spa proves irresistible. On entry, visitors are invited to enjoy a light snack or a drink while relaxing in their robes in a restful room dedicated to wellbeing.

This beautifully designed spa boasts a pool, outdoor whirlpool, hammam and sauna.

After a few hours, I felt completely relaxed and a million miles from the stresses of everyday life.

As evening approached, I became increasingly impatient to taste the cuisine of chef Ralf Berendsen, who was awarded his second Michelin star 10

in November 2017. The amuse-bouches were immediately seductive: olives two ways (green with vermouth and black with foie gras), razor clams with fennel and citrus, and oysters with foie gras snow and sunchokes. I knew immediately that this would be a memorable meal.

The hamachi & foie gras with apple, green curry and celery (photo) blew my mind. The balance of texture and flavor was perfection personified.

The combination of sashimi with foie gras and green curry may seem a difficult trick to pull off, but proves to be a complete success.

Then came langoustine prepared two ways using the same ingredients: yuzu, paprika, tandoori masala and coconut. Chef Berendsen uses the best locally-sourced ingredients, but takes us around the world with his spices. Next was the turbot topped with a thin slice of foie gras and served with miso, smoked eel, asparagus and purslane leaves in a dashi broth with yuzu cream. A complex, earthy dish brightened with citrus flavors. We then traveled to the Middle East with Pyrenean lamb couscous, lemon yogurt,

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spices and morels. The chef continues to wow with desserts: foie gras ice cream with yuzu and ginger beer foam and hazelnuts, followed by a sorbet version of a Waldorf salad.

The meal was made even more memorable by the perfect pairings of Sommelier Thijs van Sambeeck. Despite the common theme running through Ralf Berendsen’s menu (the combination of foie gras, citrus and spices), the way in which each dish was composed made it completely distinctive from the next.

One thing’s for sure though, this will remain an unforgettable experience.

Joann Pai

DOMAINE LA BUTTE AUX BOIS Paalsteenlaan 90, 3620 Lanaken Tel.: +32 89 73 97 70 www.labutteauxbois.be

COMMITMENTS

“Cooking demands absolute commitment” 2018 is proving to be an intense year for Christophe Bacquié. He has just received the ultimate accolade in the gift of the Michelin guide: a third star for the restaurant that bears his name at the Hôtel du Castellet in Provence. We look back on the career of this great chef.

The spa entrance contrasts with the historic architecture

This beautifully designed spa consists of a pool, outdoor whirlpool, hammam, and sauna

SOPHIE CORNIBERT Sophie opted for the culinary world after completing her film studies. Today, she is an events organizer, and founded Fulgurances l’Adresse with two partners to continue the good work of showcasing the artisans she respects so much via her foody stories and pithy posts. @fulgurances

CHRISTOPHE BACQUIÉ SPEAKS IN THE URGENT TONES OF AN ASSERTIVE CHEF IN A CONSTANT RACE AGAINST THE CLOCK. BUT HE ALSO HAS ANOTHER, SOFTER, VOICE. Especially when he talks

Lobster, papaya, lapsang souchong tea, bergamot miso-hollandaise

Chef Ralf Berendsen, who was recently awarded his second Michelin Star

about Corsica, it becomes almost dreamlike.

Its luxuriant nature, its culture and the justdelivered meaty charcuterie... All remind him of the island of his birth. He speaks of his great good fortune to have grown up in the family hotel and restaurant, attended catering college there and spent twelve years as chef at the Villa in Calvi. It was there that he achieved Michelin one-star status – for the first time in 2002, and then again in 2007 - and learned the freedom to express himself and move on from the things he had learned from some of the great names.

So is it the diversity of landscape that guides him or the increasingly close links he forges with local producers? Wherever he lives, the chef loves to weave into the conversation reminders of how important it is for him and his team to nurture close daily relationships with local artisan sources. Following his recognition as a Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2004, Christophe Bacquié was appointed in 2009 as Chef at the Hôtel du Castellet, near Cassis; a move designed to keep him close to the Mediterranean.

He saw his new responsibilities as the perfect challenge. He was delighted to secure his second star in 2010, followed in February 2018 by the coveted third for his famous Restaurant Christophe Bacquié, where he expresses his creativity to the full.

It’s a change that says a lot about his desire to create a fine dining environment worthy

of his aspirations: contemporary, uncluttered and openly embracing the sea. “Cooking demands absolute commitment.” In sumptuous surroundings, Christophe Bacquié talks about how powerful the art of cooking is in bringing people together. “Beginning with our restaurant here. We hear so much about kitchens and chefs, but from my perspective, we should be absolutely celebrating the work done front of house. It's the staff in the dining room who tell the story of the food we create.

Before every service, our front of house teams taste the menu, and I often ask them to pass on to our diners the emotions they felt personally.

I want strong personalities who simply can’t help communicating what they feel.”

It’s a confession that makes you take a closer look at the plates he serves: his Promenade en Mer menu is a daily celebration of sustainably caught fish. The menu here often features his famous signature dishes, such as lmodern Aïoli, Mediterranean octopus and vegetables (picture). Christophe Bacquié is a committed member of Seaweb, and serves only unendangered species caught using eco-friendly techniques. “The most important thing is taste in its simplest form: if you take a wild line-caught seabass, and one that’s been farmed at sea and given only fish meal, the result on the plate is a completely different thing.” For proof, look no further than the lustrous and deceptively simple linecaught hake cooked in foaming butter and accompanied by crushed ratte potatoes and truffle. Today, when you ask him about his dreams for the future, he talks about longevity: “Great cooks are a product of their long-term determination,” as Paul Bocuse said.

HÔTEL & SPA DU CASTELLET 3001 route des Hauts du Camp, 83330 Le Castellet Tel.: + 33 4 94 98 37 77 www.hotelducastellet.net

Issue 6 - Fall-Winter 2018

11

TRAVEL

So what’s your dream destination this winter?

MARIE-FAURE AMBROISE IN THE ARGENTINIAN PAMPAS.

The writers, photographers and seasoned travelers who contribute to Instants know the best destinations.

They inspire us by sharing their dreams of faraway paradise places and their current must-visits.

“I dream of taking my little tribe here.

I’m looking for adventure, wide-open spaces and sunshine. We could party in the fiestas of Buenos Aires and discover Argentinian food, pet horses on a hacienda deep in the pampas, experience the Iguazú Falls in the tropical rainforest, and taste the divine wines of the Mendoza Valley. We’d then take a road trip to Patagonia to end the journey in Perito Moreno.”

JOANN PAI MAHARAJAS PALACES IN JAIPUR.

“I’ve always been fascinated with Indian culture: the controlled chaos, all the different spices, and the colors and textures of the architecture.

I’d love to start in the north and visit Le Corbusier’s masterpiece in Chandigarh, then navigate through the craziness of New Delhi to explore the palaces of Jaipur, and eventually make my way down to the slower and more tranquil coast of Goa.”

LAUREN WELLS ZANZIBAR, THE SPICE ISLAND. “I’ve been dreaming of a trip to Tanzania for some time now, and would love to explore this African island. From the turquoise beaches to the UNESCO World Heritage Center of Stone Town and the seemingly utopian Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa, this destination would be an incredible winter escape.”

ENVIE DE RÊVER ?

LET YOUR MIND WANDER CONNECTEZ-VOUS SUR

CONNECT TO WWW.REL AISCHATEAUX.COM WWW.REL AISCHATEAUX.COM TÉLÉCHARGEZ NOS APPLICATIONS IPAD, IPHONE, ANDROID ET TABLETTE ANDROIDOUR APPS DOWNLOAD IPAD, IPHONE, ANDROID AND ANDROID TABLET

ANNICK WEBER BATHING IN A JAPANESE ONSEN.

“This year I’m dreaming of beating the cold with a soak in one of Japan’s ancient onsen hot springs, of which there are thousands among the snow-capped mountains. There can be no more idyllic way of keeping warm than to marvel at the serenity of the frosty landscape from a steaming outdoor bath, followed by a traditional tea ceremony.”

SECTIONS TRAVEL (EN) VOYAGE (FR)

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

CUISINE (EN) CUISINE (FR)

Isabelle Mical

Philippe Gombert

MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTION

COMMITMENTS (EN) ENGAGEMENTS (FR)

CONCIERGE CONCIERGE 12

(EN) (FR)

Yorgo & Co

LAYOUT

Virginie Oudard

EDITORIAL COORDINATION Les Digitalistes

Issue 6 - Fall-Winter 2018

CONTRIBUTORS

Joann Pai, Arturo & Bamboo, Lily Barbery-Coulon, Estérelle Payany, Annick Weber, Sophie Cornibert, Lauren Wells, Marie Faure-Ambroise.

PHOTO CREDITS

Joann Pai, Hotel Little Nell, Thomas Plettenberg, Top Hotel Hochgurgl, Hermitage Hotel & Spa, Hameau Albert Ier, Hôtel Walther, Arturo & Bamboo, Lily Barbery-Coulon, Annick Weber, Anne-Emmanuelle Thion, Tamlin Wightman, Jean-François Guggenheim, Pedro Bargero.

PRODUCTION

Relais & Châteaux uses paper manufactured using wood pulp from sustainably managed forests.

Printed by: Advence In accordance with case law, Relais & Châteaux® will accept no responsibility whatsoever for any involuntary error or omission occurring despite the attentive care and checks applied during production of this magazine. This magazine is published by Relais & Châteaux® SIRET FR 33 306 446 675 00010.

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