The Relais & Châteaux magazine Issue 7 Spring-Summer 2019 relaischateaux.com/magazine #relaischateauxmagazine
DELICIOUS JOURNEYS Local identity, new discoveries, sharing and commitment... Relais & Châteaux focuses on the human aspects of travel and culinary experiences. pages 2-3
CUISINE
TRAVEL
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The Troisgros family reinvents its restaurant deep in the natural world
A hotel perched high above the sea on the Isle of Capri
A whirlwind of sensations and colors in Marrakesh
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TRAVEL
The delicious journey as seen by... To mark the launch of the new ‘Creating delicious journeys’ brand campaign, we asked five personalities – chef and gardener, manager and property owner – to tell us what they see as the enchantment of travel and the essence of taste. Proof, were more needed, that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. By Elvira Masson
Misa Asaba, Owner of Ryokan Asaba, Shizuoka, Japan. Elegance, history, and culture are the components of the most delicious journeys.” What’s the most delicious food you’ve ever tasted? The “Katsuranagare Koshihikari” variety of rice grown in Shuzenji, near a spring of crystalline water born of the melting snows of Mount Fuji. Is there always a degree of delicious delight in a journey? The idea of delight changes with the place, from the moment one shares, with all guests seated. It is a precious and necessary notion. Balzac wrote, “Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on a word…” And you? Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on a contemplation. ASABA 3450-1 Shuzenji, Izu-shi, Shizuoka 410-2416, Japan Tel.: +81 (0)558 72 70 00 www.asaba-ryokan.com
Alexandre Gauthier, Owner and Chef of La Grenouillère, La Madelaine-sousMontreuil, France. “Every bright, balanced, harmonious landscape is delicious.” What’s the most delicious food you’ve ever tasted? A glass of raw milk, still warm from milking time, on the Leviel family farm. And, in the more distant land of São Tomé and Príncipe, I tasted fresh cacao beans straight from the pod, like candy. Rather like a litchi, with a tart, complex flavor. Is there always a degree of delicious delight in a journey? Delight and travel are about discovery – discovery of a territory, a culture, savoir-faire, a cuisine. Discovery is delightful and delicious. Balzac wrote, “Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on a word…” And you? Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on a crumb. LA GRENOUILLÈRE 19, rue de la Grenouillère 62170 La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France Tel.: +33 (0)3 21 06 07 22 www.lagrenouillere.fr
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John Coykendall, Master Gardener, Blackberry Farm, Walland, Tennessee, USA. “The charm of travel is to have the taste buds on alert at the mere prospect of imagining they’re going to taste something good.” What’s the most delicious food you’ve ever tasted? The real green beans we grow at Blackberry Farm. When they’re ready for picking, their pods are still tender. I like to cook them with a piece of bacon and a little garlic. What landscape brings to mind the word ‘delight’? I see Tennessee’s rich hills carpeted in crops, a log cabin, the smell of green beans simmering and cornbread baking. Balzac wrote, “Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on a word…” And you? Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on a seed. BLACKBERRY FARM 1471 West Millers Cove Road Walland, Tennessee 37886, USA Tel.: +1 865 984 8166 www.blackberryfarm.com
Matias de Cristobal, General Manager, Awasi Atacama, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile “Any landscape can be delicious once it piques your curiosity and your desire to explore.” What’s the most delicious food you’ve ever tasted? Our Pampas-raised, grass-fed beef. And the endives, straight from the earth, prepared by Laurent Petit, the three-Michelin-star chef at Relais & Châteaux Le Clos de Sens in Annecy, France, the simplest of pleasures. Is there always a degree of delicious delight in a journey? As Borges wrote, “Any life, no matter how long and complex it may be, is made up of a single moment – the moment in which a man finds out, once and for all, who he is.” The delight lies in its capacity to open my appetite to the unknown. Balzac wrote, “Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on a word…” And you? Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on a single musical note. AWASI ATACAMA Tocopilla 04, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile Tel.: +56 22 2339641 www.awasiatacama.com
Andrew Thomason, Managing Director, Gravetye Manor, East Grinstead, Great Britain. “Readying for a journey is delicious in itself.” What’s the most delicious food you’ve ever tasted? The peaches from our recently restored orchard. When I close my eyes, I can smell the fragrance. What landscape brings to mind the word ‘delight’? The garden of Gravetye Manor is the jewel in our crown. Whatever the season, the emotions it engenders are delicious. GRAVETYE MANOR Vowels Lane RH19 4LJ, West Hoathly, Great Britain Tel.: +44 (0)1342 810567 gravetyemanor.co.uk
Balzac wrote, “Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on a word…” And you? Often have I made the most delightful voyage, floating on the song of a bird.
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Michel Troisgros: “Composing a great menu is about taste, texture, color. Naturally, we avoid repetitions, redundancies. This happens naturally enough. But a menu’s balance is also created through disruption and surprise.”
CUISINE
Troisgros in Ouches : renaissance Troisgros. It means a fabled family, a peerless restaurant, 50 years of three Michelin stars. In 2017, they left Roanne to reinvent themselves surrounded by the natural world just a few miles away in a small Loire valley community. By Benoît Peeters
autobiography Comme un Chef (with Aurélia Aurita), it was a dazzling, almost mystical experience that ignited my passion for cooking. Which is why returning to Troisgros was preceded by great anticipation and emotion. And a tinge of apprehension. Would it still have that magic, this new place where Michel and Marie-Pierre Troisgros, their son César, and their staff decided to resettle in February 2017? The place has won us over in a matter of minutes. As soon as we set down our bags in the vast guest rooms overlooking the garden, we take a tour of the estate with Fanny, César’s partner. Seventeen hectares of pastures, ponds, and forests. The garden is already lush and vigorous: It was planted well before the move. Here, in a corner of the kitchen garden, are the aromatic plants that Michel and César use every day. The orchard boasts about a hundred fruit trees: apple, cherry, plum, apricot, fig. A stone’s throw away, sheltered from the wind, are pomegranate, jujube, kiwi, Sichuan pepper, and persimmon. Here, a grassy labyrinth; there, a mulberry tree upon which each visitor is invited to hang a wish; paths that seem to have been in place since time began, though they were created by the establishment’s new masters; a handful of boats for those wishing to venture onto the waters of the pond; a foal gamboling across the meadow at a speed of a future Preakness champion. The Troisgros transformed the buildings with help from their friend Patrick Bouchain. They wanted WHAT MAKES LA MAISON TROISGROS DELICIOUS FOR BENOÎT PETERS “It is the surprise of innovation inseparable from the charm of memory. It is a total and rare experience, where the setting, the service, and the meal are one.”
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an unaffected architecture of simple beauty, a reflection of the natural surroundings. The exquisite structure of the old barn renders the farm building a veritable cathedral. All about us are materials at once rough and precious, subtle luxury, simple sophistication. Nothing is hidden, yet all is made beautiful, like this raw concrete, bearing the imprints of long wooden planks. At last, we arrive at Le Bois sans Feuilles – “The Leafless Wood.” This restaurant, built around an ancient oak tree, has floor-to-ceiling glass walls on all sides with breathtaking views of the grounds. Its slender pillars and latticed ceiling give it the look and feel of a forest. Softly, slowly, the light evolves as evening falls. The servers, uniformed in black and forest green, emerge from the shadows like so many woodland sprites. The main menu follows a tonal theme of rouge aux lèvres. An almost monochromatic dish, a potent, fresh opener that revives and prepares the palate: noisette of pigeon, a dazzling tomato, pickled radishes and eggplant, wild strawberries, a sprinkling of currants of red and black, a drizzle of plum vinegar. But here is a voile de lait, “milk veil,” to add calming creaminess. It takes courage to disturb this white perfection, graced with a thin stalk of fried fennel, to discover the orange tint of the mussels and chanterelles. The first dish had no need for wine, already made regal by the Condrieu. Escargot et chou toastés au tamarin, “Toasted snail and cabbage with tamarind”: a fusion of French cuisine and the finest Chinese flavors, a crispy crêpe resembling a giant oyster. The canon de lotte petit diable – literally a “little devil monkfish cannon” – is aptly named. Candied citrus and yellow curry brighten the firm, pristine burbot flesh. At the plate’s edge are two groundcherries. Fleur d’écrevisses, framboise et poivron, the “Crayfish, raspberry, and sweet pepper blossom.” Beneath the green peppers are crayfish
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Michel’s son César Troisgros: “Michel and I both like pronounced flavors. We enjoy acidity, with the great variety of vinegars, citruses, and herbs. A dish without acidity often seems flat, textureless. French cuisine has long favored roundness. I had the good fortune to work in Spain, then in California: Mexican cuisine is omnipresent, but Asian cuisines, too. This led me to explore using hot peppers.”
topped with a tiny slice of pancetta. A lively dish of contrasts, perfectly paired with a sumptuous Côte-Rôtie. Selle d’agneau “primavera” – Saddle of lamb primavera. The lamb is uniformly pink, unfailingly tender, with crispy skin. But it is the shitake-and-chard garnish that truly impresses. The dark sauce heightens the chard’s flavor. Œuf à la coque: Though named a “Boiled egg,” this first dessert is an amusing trompe l’oeil. Hiding beneath the chocolate shell is a white bavarois with a cheery yellow center made of passion-fruit cream. The nest is crafted of slender straws of dried confectioner’s custard lightly tinged with basil. Le Papillon: It is the server who releases this butterfly, cutting it down the middle in a single blow. The golden sweet-potato wings open without breaking, revealing a fruity cream, pink grapefruit, and wild strawberries in a small dish. It is more the dessert of a cook than a pastry chef that concludes this exquisitely executed menu with such luscious life. Because a great meal is more than a series of dishes: It is a journey along which nothing is repeated, and every element complements the others. TROISGROS 728, route de Villerest 42155 Ouches, France Tél. : +33 (0)4 77 71 66 97 www.troisgros.fr
Illustrations Aurélia Aurita
IN 1977, IT WAS THE FIRST MAJOR RESTAURANT I’D EVER BEEN IN: As I shared in my culinary
TRAVEL
Peaceful idleness at Gilpin Hotel In the Lake District of northwest England, the Cunliffes offer you the chance to totally unwind in their tranquil, relaxing hotel on a lake shore surrounded by spectacular countryside. A Michelin-starred restaurant and spa experiences make for an even more pleasurable stay. By Lindsey Tramuta and Joann Pai
IT’S EASY TO FEEL THAT YOU HAVE THE WORLD TO YOURSELVES. THE COUNTY OF CUMBRIA IS ONE OF THE LEAST DENSELY POPULATED IN THE WHOLE OF ENGLAND, and it’s home
to a national park that has long inspired painters, musicians, and poets. Known as the Lake District, it is also home to Gilpin Hotel & Lake House which seems to melt into the landscape. In the summer months, it’s the ideal place to enjoy all the charms of the English countryside. A family-run property, Gilpin has been a steady anchor in the majestic, mountainous English Lake District — a UNESCO Heritage Site since 2017 — for thirty years.
A spa lodge at Gilpin Hotel.
The journey began with a hotel set up in co-owner John Cunliffe’s grandmother’s former private home. In 2010, John and his wife Christine opened the Lake House as a second guest property, after generations as a family heirloom. Later, the couple opened the Jetty Spa, perched three meters above ground into the canopy of trees in a separate lodge that feels like a luxurious, adult treehouse. Its spacious treatment room features floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooks the lake, and can perhaps best be described as a cocoon for meditation. “Even if guests intend to spend time outdoors exploring, they usually end up relaxing at the Lake House”, explained Mrs. Cunliffe. “Creating a spa became the most obvious way to enhance that experience.” More recently, they developed the Jetty Spa Trail, an ingenious, three-hour pampering journey that takes guests from a refreshing swim in the Lake House pool, up to the spa for a treatment, out to the boat house for tea time, and into one of two jacuzzis for a steamy conclusion with champagne. It’s precisely through fine-tuned service and ideas that keep them ahead of the curve in their offering that the Cunliffes have weathered the vagaries of the travel industry. Mr. Cunliffe vividly remembers how radically different the market was when they first started. For one, travelers were beginning to swap the weeklong stay with short, weekend getaways throughout the year. “We’ve always had to adapt. Thirty years ago, there was no digital marketing, no courting travel agencies — we’ve always focused on having the best staff and thinking outside of the box”, he explained.
The generous English breakfast.
Gilpin Spice specializes in pan-Asian cuisine.
A jacuzzi for chillout me-time.
That ability to stand out in the Lake District also extends to the unexpected culinary experience. The first night of my stay, I dined at the hotel’s casual and contemporary restaurant Gilpin Spice, which cleverly celebrates Cumbria’s heritage at the heart of the spice trade. The meal itself was a surprising journey across cultures, with flavors drawn from the Philippines, Thailand, Indonesia, Japan, China, and Malaysia. The Cunliffe’s were the first property in the Lake District to offer an Asian dining experience, one that attracts local residents. On the opposite end of the spectrum is Hrishi, the Cunliffe’s Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by Chef Hrishikesh Desai, who riffs on British cuisine by incorporating hints of Asian flavors. It’s that extra zing, as the chef likes to call it, that elevates each dish, like tandoori pineapple or saffron-poached apricots, and swede-and-onion marmalade. But what matters is that it works harmoniously.
WHAT MAKES THE GILPIN GOTEL DELICIOUS FOR LINDSEY TRAMUTA “Delicious at Gilpin is that extra zing that elevates each dish, like tandoori pineapple or saffron-poached apricots. It’s also hours of pure relaxation in the Jetty Spa — a gift to one’s body and mind.”
GILPIN HÔTEL & LAKE HOUSE Crook Road, Windermere, The English Lake District, LA23 3NF, United Kingdom Tel.: +44 (0)15394 88818 www.thegilpin.co.uk
Rowboats to explore Knip Tarn lake.
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Bathed in the rising sun.
The hotel takes its name from the statue of Augustus, originally installed here by Russian prince Emmanuel Bulkak.
Every room has its own distinct identity.
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Caesar Augustus : an imperial palace In the days of the Roman Empire, the Bay of Naples and the Isle of Capri were extremely exclusive destinations. Centuries later, a five-star hotel created and styled by the Signorini family on a cliff perched high above the Mediterranean makes it easy to understand why. By Rosa Park
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ITALY IS AN EXPERIENCE AKIN TO A SENSORY SYMPHONY. VESPAS POOTLE DOWN UNEVEN STREETS; limoncello
sticks sweetly to the tongue; espresso bitterly clings to the roof of the mouth; and the sea continues its gentle swell and fall in an endless glittering motion. On the island of Capri, off the southern coast of the mainland, Hotel Caesar Augustus harbors a quintessential Italian feel. Nested on the edge of Mount Solaro, it was originally the opulent villa of a Russian prince, before it was acquired in 1940 by the Signorini family and fashioned into a luxury hotel. Gesturing over the Bay of Naples and Amalfi Coast, a statue of Caesar Augustus provides its namesake. The white gated entrance gleams in the afternoon sun, unveiling a canary-yellow building behind. White-and yellow-striped awnings yawn from windows, bestowing shade over the hot tiled floors. A profusion of bougainvillea and swirled floribunda roses exude a soft floral fragrance which
The hotel boasts many suites.
The Bay of Naples and the Sorrento Peninsula from the Caesar Augustus.
A cliffside terrace on Monte Solaro.
Canary yellow echoes the sunlight.
marries with the salt of the sea. The front door to the property is ajar, through which the view already arrests, and beckons attendance, allowing the check-in desk and smiling fellow guests to fall by the wayside in pursuit of this great expanse of blue. Sky and ocean meet in a seamless merging, the horizon almost imperceptible, save from the wakes of the yachts which graze the water’s surface like shimmering fish. Eyes ache in the harsh sun utterly captivated. From the cliffside terrace, which wraps the length of the building, this view stays at nearly every angle, no matter where you are. The classic, Italianate décor within is strewn with the color of Crocus sativus – saffron crocus – throughout, conveying a sense of nobility and rarity as if taken from Ancient Rome itself. Terracotta signs guide towards the infinity pool, the vegetable garden, the spa, and everything is so sun-drenched
the very flora has been imbued with a golden-hued ambrosia. It tans the rough façade of the hotel, dapples the draping trees and every living thing, including the guests; each one extends upwards to soak in its ochre glow. Dinner can be spent gazing into the lavender dusk, with bowls of linguine and plump focaccia. As night descends, it comes as blissful realization to know we are far from home, where the stars are more plentiful and beguiling. A few glasses of Barolo perhaps enhanced their beauty, too.
CAESAR AUGUSTUS Via Giuseppe Orlandi 4, 80071 Anacapri, Isle of Capri, Italy Tel.: +39 0818 37 33 95 www.caesar-augustus.com
The 27-meter infinity pool.
WHAT MAKES THE CAESAR AUGUSTUS DELICIOUS FOR ROSA PARK “Delicious at Caesar Augustus is the sumptuous view of the Bay of Salerno upon arrival at the property.”
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COMMITMENTS
Countering climate change begins on the plate Relais & Châteaux has been working alongside the Slow Food movement via the #FoodForChange campaign since 2017 to draw attention to endangered regional produce and ingredients, and to counter climate change as part of everyday life. Relais & Châteaux chefs promote the cause of protecting local produce and work to raise awareness of the quality and origin of the local ingredients they use.
Chef Panagiotis Papadopoulos, Avaton (Greece) What’s the biggest threat to the food industry? One of the biggest threats to the food industry today is food waste. Every year, one third of the globally produced food gets lost or goes to waste. As chefs we need to reduce this loss by using local, seasonal products and by using techniques and recipes that minimize waste. What product are you defending? I am defending Chalkidiki green olive because it is a product that fits my style of cooking. It’s taste has fruity aromas and a slightly spicy touch. The fact that I can easily find it growing in our resort makes it even more beloved to me. Tell me a fact about this product. Chalkidiki green olive is a product with protected designation of origin. However, the number of olive trees from 2011 to 2015 in Chalkidiki has reduced by 10%. This is not only because of weather conditions and disease, but also because of their use as fuel in fireplace and stoves.
Chef Andrea Campani, Il Borro (Italy) What’s the biggest threat to the food industry? The biggest problem for the food industry is globalization. Today the market demands lower price and unified taste. I want to use local ingredients because I want to save tradition and authentic taste, but I also want to save the community around it. What product are you defending? I want to defend this special ingredient, chickpeas from Pratomagno. It’s a special variety of chickpea that grows in the Valdarno area close to here. I love this ingredient because it grows in very bad conditions, it’s a strong plant. Tell me a fact about this product. It’s a very special ingredient, it grows in a dry soil without any care from the farmer, but the harvest is the key moment: you have to harvest just in July, pick only by hand, and this makes the taste unique. Every dish will be memorable. 8
Why do you love cooking with it? I love cooking chickpeas because it’s an eclectic ingredient. It’s part of my territory, it’s part of my family and my memory. You can simply spread it on toasted bread with extra olive oil on top or you can create some fantastic fish carpaccio, chickpea sorbet, and some wild herbs.
Why do you love cooking with it? I like cooking with Chalkidiki green olives because their taste fits perfectly with other local products, like fresh seafood and local diary. I also like the fact that all
Chef Thomas Neeser, Grand Hôtel du Lac (Switzerland)
Proclaim your love to this vegetable. Why is it special? My mamma used to cook chickpeas every friday, it’s part of my memory, it’s part of my mind. It’s like a song that reminds me of all the special moments that I spent with my family.
IL BORRO Località Borro 1 52024, San Giustino Valdarno (Tuscany), Italy Tel.: +39 055 977 053 www.ilborro.it
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the Avaton Team takes part in its collection at the end of the season, guaranteeing its excellent quality while making the process very personal.
What’s the biggest threat to the food industry? It’s the use of all singleuse, disposable plastics. We buy salads from the supermarket that are already washed, individually packed by portion, then we take them home, unpack them, and we throw away the plastic. And then we find it at the bottom of the sea. This is too much. GRAND HÔTEL DU LAC Rue d’Italie 1, 1800 Vevey, Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)21 925 06 06 www.ghdl.ch
What product are you defending? I chose Fera, a fish from
AVATON LUXURY VILLAS RESORT Komitsa Bay, Nea Roda, 63075, Halkidiki, Greece Tel.: +30 6932 390252 www.avatonresort.gr
Lake Geneva. A local product that comes just 20 meters from our hotel. Tell me a fact about this product. This fish is not in danger, otherwise I wouldn’t have chosen it. It’s a very noble fish with a very fine flesh. I like it. Why do you love cooking with it? You can cook it hot or cold, in foam or tartar, or you can make rillettes, you can work it in different ways. We really have a lot of possibilities with this fish.
COMMITMENTS
A feast of unfamiliar fish Exploring “lesser-known” fish means demonstrating that we can source outside the array of mass-market seafood and choose fish that aren’t threatened with extinction by virtue of finicky human consumption. By Sophie Cornibert Maxime Nouail, chef at Domaine de Rochevilaine in Brittany.
Chef Jason Bangerter Langdon Hall (Canada) What’s the biggest threat to the food industry? The irresponsible and unsustainable fishing practices. For our future generations to have beautiful safe, thriving oceans, rivers and lakes in the future, it is crucial that we make better choices today. What product are you defending? I choose salt. Because it is an essential mineral needed to sustain human life and has been used in food preparation since ancient times. And it is a truly Canadian product. Mined right here our region since 1867. Canada is the fourth largest producer of salt in the world.
SOPHIE CORNIBERT DEFINES DELICIOUS
What makes this product so special to you? If not for salt in the preservation of meat and fish, early European explorers would not have survived the journey overseas to discover the Americas. Why do you love cooking with it? To bring a dish to life. Not to make it salty, but to accentuate the flavors of the ingredients. LANGDON HALL COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL AND SPA 1 Langdon Drive, Cambridge, Ontario, Canada N3H 4R8 Tel.: +1 519 740 2100 www.langdonhall.ca
“I think that delicious emanates first and foremost from kindness. The benevolence of the fisherman towards the seabed and the benevolence of the cook who chooses his fish without sacrificing biodiversity. Delicious is intimately linked to freshness for me, so, in a way, to life.”
“LITTLE-KNOWN, UNKNOWN, UNSUNG… THESE ARE FISH THAT WE NEVER GET THE CHANCE TO COOK BECAUSE THEY’RE THROWN BACK AS SOON AS THEY’RE CAUGHT,”
says Maxime Nouail, chef at the Domaine de Rochevilaine, a Breton property perched on a rocky Atlantic peninsula. Just what does “diversified” mean in the world of fish? What creatures have the nets passed by? Maxime eagerly describes the famous fried whiting he has on the menu, marinated in Breton white beer, or his haddock, “all those fish that are delicious but not flashy,” he explains. “We have fun cooking everything that’s just outside our front door, not to mention the mackerel and sardines coming in from
La Criée every day. There are people who have to fish to eat, and then those who fish for pleasure. Both sometimes forget that the sea has her own rules: She is a vast and beautiful person that must be respected.” Over in the Mediterranean, Gérald Passédat, chef at Le Petit Nice, has devoted an entire book to fish in Des abysses à la lumière, published by Éditions Flammarion. What better ode to unsung fish and their fishermen, unchanged for years? “Félix fishes longline, a meticulous art in itself that respects the Mediterranean and provides me with fish of extreme quality.” Gérald is one of 210 chefs who signed a pledge against electric fishing in 2018. Englishman Michael Caines,
whose spectacular restaurant Lympstone Manor overlooks the Exe Estuary in East Devon, knows sustainability is essential: “Our role is to raise awareness among customers and the up-and-coming generations of chefs about sustainable fishing, the importance of sourcing local, and ‘zero-kilometer’ cooking.” He describes his estuary menu, the one he finds the most meaningful and that lets him have some fun: “When it comes to cooking, that’s all that matters to me: how to be creative with what I have at hand – scorpionfish, eel, cuttlefish, red mullet – without making what people expect to eat in a fine restaurant, which is generally high-end fish that are often not in season and, worse, usually threatened species.”
DOMAINE DE ROCHEVILAINE Pointe de Pen Lan, 56190 Billiers, France Tel.: +33 (0)2 97 41 61 61 www.domainerochevilaine.com LE PETIT NICE-PASSÉDAT Anse de Maldormé, corniche J.-F.-Kennedy, 13007 Marseille Tel.: +33 (0)4 91 59 25 92 www.passedat.fr
Michael Caines (right), chef at Lympstone Manor, with his fish supplier.
LYMPSTONE MANOR HÔTEL, RESTAURANT AND VINEYARD Courtlands Lane, Exmouth EX8 3NZ, United Kingdom Tel.: +44 1395 202040 www.lympstonemanor.co.uk
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Its history and politics have forged the lasting human condition of South Africa, and given its art an emotional charge that is undoubtedly stronger now than before.
Contrasting shadow with light and humor with provocation, South African art has not forgotten the days of apartheid, colonialism and slavery.
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South Africa: art with subject From Ellerman House in Cape Town to Delaire Graff Estate among the vines, hotels are morphing into art spaces by building partnerships with prominent galleries. By Patrick Locqueneux
HAVING PREVIOUSLY BEEN CONTENT SIMPLY TO HANG ART AS DECORATION, THE HOTEL NOW PLAYS AN INCREASINGLY EDUCATIONAL ROLE ONCE EXCLUSIVE TO TRADITIONAL MUSEUM ENVIRONMENTS.
Although these hotels all share the same common thread of art from house to garden, and have along the way involved the country’s top galleries, from Goodman Gallery and Everard Read to the Stevenson Gallery, Ellerman House has pushed commitment even further to the point where it adopts the feel of a museum, housing the classical and modern pieces of its collection in the main building, and showing its contemporary pieces on a balcony overlooking the sea. Whether or not you choose to stay in one of the 11 rooms of this Relais & Châteaux hotel lulled by the tides of the South Atlantic, you should definitely experience a private viewing of the thousand or so works curated here, to say nothing of lunch on the ocean terrace. 10
This journey shows us how and how far the art of South Africa has ventured beyond its geography. While it was the landscape that fascinated the plein air painters exiled here in the 19th century, there is no longer any question of ‘white art’ or ‘black art’; there is only unified South African art. Its history and politics have forged the lasting human condition of this country, and given its art an emotional charge that is undoubtedly stronger now than before. Contrasting shadow with light and humor with provocation, South African art has not forgotten the days of apartheid, colonialism, and slavery that now provide it with a fertile territory for subject matter. Sometimes Utopian or even poetic, their art is no less subversive and brutal in its quest for inventiveness, as evidenced by the sculptures of El Anatsui recently celebrated at the South African National Gallery. From Cape Town, it takes scarcely an hour to reach the Delaire Graff bought in 2003 by Laurence Graff, jeweler
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to billionaires and heads of state. Set in a matchless location between Stellenbosh, the city of oaks, and Franschhoek, a divine village of Provençal ambiance, the estate impresses in every way, including with its peerless view of Simonsberg Mountain. Here, the owner has given free rein to his recent passion for African art, with pieces by Smit, Kumalo, Kentridge, Schimmel, Skotnes, and others. There is not one corner of his estate that doesn’t boast proudly of this homage to the Dark Continent, its wildlife, plant life, and people. The most beautiful example is undoubtedly the impressive series of bronzes by the expansive Dylan Lewis that stand guard at the entrances to the estate and flank the manicured paths designed and laid out by landscape designer Keith Kirsten in this estate limited only by the mountains. DELAIRE GRAFF LODGES & SPA R310, Helshoogte Pass, Banhoek Valley 7600, Stellenbosch, South Africa Tel.: +27 (0)21 885 8160 www.delaire.co.za ELLERMAN HOUSE 180 Kloof Road, Bantry Bay 8005, Cape Town, South Africa Tel.: +27 (0)21 430 3200 www.ellerman.co.za
PATRICK LOCQUENEUX ENJOYS A DELICIOUS INTERLUDE AT ELLERMAN HOUSE “A table facing the disheveled ocean, in the shade under the varangue. Beyond the remarkable plate by Grant Daniels, this is undoubtedly one of the most delicious moments that can be offered during a stay in Cape Town.”
Rose petals in the bedroom, a fire in the hearth, and a private dinner for two... I’ll never forget my birthday at the Ksar Char-Bagh! Surrounded by the Marrakech palm grove, the Ksar Char-Bagh is an amazing hotel; a corner of paradise in the style of a 14th-century Moorish palace, whose name evokes tales of the Orient. The hotel has only 13 bedrooms and offers superb facilities for its size, as well as the highly personalized service that only small boutique hotels can deliver. All the food is organic, and the jams and olive oil come from the chef’s own organic vegetable garden.
Only 3 hours from Paris, Marrakech is a totally different world of unstinted sun, palm trees, color, and the medina, where losing your way is the best thing to do. Straddling tradition and the modern world, this city amazes and enchants me. It understands how to refresh and reinvent itself. It is innately magical and attracts us like a magnet.
Marrakech is a powerful source of inspiration. I’m always on the lookout every time I walk through this city. Its colors, the decorative style of the riads, and the rich diversity of the souks are definitely the most inspirational things for me as a photographer.
TRAVEL
Colors and flavors in Marrakesh Looking beyond its ceaseless urban hum, Marrakech reveals itself as distinctive for its sensitivity, hospitality, beauty and a multitude of new places to discover. Photographer Céline Marks experienced it over the space of a weekend and shares her best finds with you. By Céline Marks
Le Jardin: This new restaurant created by the team at Le Café des Épices is as surprising as it is engaging. You can lunch here beneath the shady trees or soak up the sun on the terrace. The menu features simple, delicious Moroccan and European-inspired dishes. I recommend the vegetarian couscous.
KSAR CHAR-BAGH Djnan Abiad, La Palmeraie route de Fez B.P. 12478, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco Tel.: + 212 (0)524 32 92 44 www.ksarcharbagh.fr
VILLA DES ORANGERS 6 Rue Sidi Mimoun, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco Tel.: +212 (0)524 38 51 04 www.villadesorangers.com
WHAT MAKES MARRAKESH DELICIOUS FOR CÉLINE MARKS La Villa des Orangers: This luxury hotel close to Jemaa El-Fna square is a masterpiece created out of the very best Moroccan craftsmanship. Even if you’re not staying at the riad, you can still lunch here in the fine dining restaurant. It’s a really beautiful place and once you enter, you really don’t want to leave.
La Famille: This is a hidden place in a tiny whitewashed courtyard that’s a haven of green peacefulness. This is the place to lunch in the shade of the trees on homemade vegetarian dishes prepared using ultra-fresh ingredients. Everything here is wonderfully delicious!
“Cross the Place Jemaa el-Fna and escape from its hustle and bustle in the small, colorful streets of the Medina. At the bend of one of them, you can meet an elderly man painting with his fingers on terracotta mugs. Authenticity is in the heart of Marrakech, it is the delicious charm of this city.”
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TRAVEL
Menorca, the unspoiled charmer of the Balearics Menorca might just be the best-kept Balearic secret, it’s the calmest, least-developed, and greenest of all. The Can Faustino hotel in the town of Ciutadella offers welcome comfort after a day spent on the beach at Cala Macarella. By Arturo & Bamboo
The beach at Cala Macarella with its turquoise water.
THE WHOLE ISLAND OOZES A SPECIAL SORT OF CALM. Directly when you hit
the main road from Mahon to Ciutadella, you can see Menorca hasn’t been hit by mass tourism: Green hills and farmers still are the main sight of this place. In 1993, the island was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in this way the highly unusual flora and fauna is protected. In very center of the historic village of Ciutadella is a 16th-century palace that is now the Can Faustino hotel. From the front, it looks out over the picturesque harbour and from the back it looks over the pretty town’s
colorful alleyways. In the beautiful garden we find discreet, shaded nooks to have a first drink and we notice immediately the attention to every single detail. The flow of things is very interesting: inside and outside really merge and it does feel like a large family home. We head for the spa, which is built in an ancient grotto’s vault, to prepare for a long dinner in the romantic garden by candlelight. The restaurant Fuego serves seasonal products with most of the vegetables grown in Can Faustino’s own orchard. The morning, after we head to the famous Cala Macarella beach, nine miles from town. You have to walk
TRAVEL
Valldemossa, the well-guarded secret of Mallorca High in the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range on the west coast of Mallorca - a UNESCO World Heritage Site lies the pretty village of Valldemossa. Famously visited by Frédéric Chopin and George Sand, its landscape continues to attract those who love the authenticity of this area. By A. & B.
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through the forest for twenty minutes to reach a white beach with turquoise water: This is the Caribbean in Europe! Even better is to walk further along the coastal path for another ten minutes to reach the tiny beach of Cala Macarelleta: Only a few locals were enjoying this beautiful and virgin bay. Around four o’clock, the sun disappears behind the rocks and it’s time to go back to the hotel to freshen up and explore the wonderful little town of Ciutadella. Many nice bars and shops line the streets, alleys, and squares: shop for Avarcas, typical Menorcan sandals, or take an aperitif under the palms.
In the evening, you can find locals and children gathering around the square of Plaça des Born, the bar Imperi offers a great terrace to people-watch and have some drinks before we head back to Can Faustino.
HÔTEL CAN FAUSTINO Carrer de sa Muradeta, 22, 07760 Ciutadella de Menorca, Balearic Islands, Spain Tel.: +34 971 489 191 www.canfaustino.com
As well as its outdoor pool, the Valldemossa Hotel also offers a sauna and jacuzzi in which to relax after a day’s walking.
Somehow, all the walks over the grounds feel almost meditative: wide terraces, the signature stone staircases, different pathways and routes through the gardens: every time you discover a new corner.
TRAVEL
Ibiza, an oasis of peace At the heart of Ibiza Town, the Mirador de Dalt Vila offers not only uninterrupted and spectacular views of the sea, but also the opportunity to withdraw from from the hyper-energetic pace of this paradise for party animals and summer visitors, and catch your breath. By A. & B.
The black-coated Menorquin horse.
We’re picked up by the hotel shuttle and drive up through a labyrinth of streets and alleys that make up the Dalt Vila quarter. A few minutes later, we stand in front of the Hotel Mirador Dalt Vila, a fantastic, beautiful 19th-century townhouse in a beautiful orange-soft pink hue.
The Hotel Can Faustino, designed by architect Olivia Putman.
The pedestrian-only streets behind the hotel.
WHAT MAKES THE BALEARICS DELICIOUS FOR ARTURO & BAMBOO The Balearic Islands are the perfect escape from the worries of everyday life. A destination that’s all about creative contemplation; the perfect surroundings in which to clear your head and get back to basics.
THE FERRY FROM FORMENTERA ENTERS IBIZA’S PORT SLOWLY
and gives us panoramic views over Dalt Vila, the famous old town and the island’s cultural, World-Heritage-listed heart. An interesting mix of old hippies, families, jet-set, and party people is strolling around town.
Slightly perched above the town, it feels immediately like a tranquil oasis away from the crowds. The hotel is located on a dead-end street with views over the sea with great benches used mostly by locals or in-the-know visitors. After freshening up in our room, we decide to go for a coffee at the well-known Ibizainstitution Croissant Show - a place where locals and tourists mingle and enjoy the great terrace with some great people-watching.
Ibiza Town feels cosmopolitan, full of energy, and the captivating landscapes previewed from the ferry announce a very special journey.
Later, we enjoy dinner at the Es Mirador restaurant sitting under the palms on the breezy terrace right in front of the hotel.
The magnificent 19th-century mansion that is now the Mirador de Dalt Vida gives every impression of a tranquil oasis among the crowds.
Again, the quietness of this area strikes us: This is the other Ibiza. The avant-garde mediterranean cuisine is fantastic - after a relaxed, long dinner, it’s time to head to the room. We open the window and fall asleep with the sound of the sea, a dreamy moment.
MIRADOR DE DALT VILA Plaza de España 4, E-07800, Ibiza Balearic Islands, Spain Tel.: +34 97 130 30 45 www.hotelmiradoribiza.com
The hotel itself was formerly the property of the monastery and feels now like your own private mansion, just a stone’s throw away from the village life.
Valldemossa Hotel urges you to leave urban life behind and take all things at a much slower pace.
Nine miles from Valldemossa, Cala Deià is a small cove with crystal-clear water and a pebble beach.
VALLDEMOSSA HÔTEL & RESTAURANT Ctra. Vieja de Valldemossa S/N E-07170, Valldemossa, Mallorca Tel.: +34 97 161 26 26 www.valldemossahotel.com
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Ragusa: Sicilian gem On the largest island in the Mediterranean, Ragusa seems to have been preserved by time. In its maze of alleyways, the Locanda Don Serafino hotel occupies a former palace stable near the ramparts of the lower part of the city. Blogger Nathan Rollinson recounts his discovery of this place. By The Rollinson RAGUSA, IN THE SOUTH OF THE HYBLAEAN MOUNTAINS, IS THE ELEGANT CAPITAL OF THIS REGION OF SICILY, Italy. Following a devastating
earthquake in 1693, some of the survivors settled on a hill to establish “Ragusa Superiore”. Others, however, stayed in the original location for the town and rebuilt Ragusa Ibla. Both have wonderful examples of Baroque palaces and churches, 18 of which are listed together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s worth allowing a whole day to wander these enchanting streets and to admire the rich architecture. Deep in the maze of Ragusa alleyways, Locanda Don Serafino is one of Sicily’s most beautiful hotels. After a two-hour journey from Catania airport, it’s time to stretch my legs and to be greeted by the staff at Locanda Don Serafino, which is a part of the Relais & Chateaux family. The hotel itself looks rather idyllic, especially the bedroom, well-appointed with a mix of modern and traditional style. The luxurious bathroom has its own opulent bathtub, which I am very much looking forward to diving in later on. The bed is situated near the small Juliet balcony overlooking the rolling hills of Ragusa. One of the most exciting elements of this property is the two-Michelin-starred restaurant – a charming, elegant spot in a delightful and most unusual setting (part of the restaurant occupies a cave!). The flavors of Sicily dominate the cuisine, which is both creative and imaginative. You are sure to find exactly the right wine from a range of more than 1,000 wines and spirits and, if a good cigar is your idea of the perfect final touch, ask to see the cigar list from the excellent sommelier. The La Rosa family propose a match between culture of territoire and local flavors, a natural proposal to select the excellent raw materials that the head chef, Vincenzo, interprets with craftsmanship. My meal begins with a selection of delightful foods, creative in presentation and divine in taste. Let alone the pairing wine which is particularly delectable to me. Now I wonder how many more courses are yet to come? If you are spending a night or two, I would recommend you try and visit some of the attractions in Ragusa. I had already heard a lot about the town and I was eager to explore. First stop was the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer (Vincenzo Ferreri). This Dominican church, by the entrance of Ibla Gardens, with its characteristic sundial on the facade, has an asymmetrically positioned bell tower topped with colorful mosaics. As I entered, I was pleasantly surprised to find an interesting art exhibition, but I couldn’t linger for long as there was so much more I wanted to see. The wealth of Baroque buildings is an intrinsic part of this historic town, including this iconic St. George Cathedral, which is a must see. There’s many a hidden gem at every corner: the best way is to get lost in the maze and you will find real beauty in the heart of Ragusa. 14
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The Ibla district is located on a plateau at approximately 450 meters altitude. Its historic center boasts more than 50 Baroque churches and palaces.
LOCANDA DON SERAFINO Via XI Febbraio, 15, 97100 Ragusa Ibla, Italy Tel.: +39 0932 220065 www.locandadonserafino.it
THE DELICIOUSNESS OF LOCANDA DON SERAFINO FOR THE ROLLINSON “A unique bijou hotel belonging to one of Sicily’s finest restaurants. It’s housed in an artfully restored medieval palazzi and features chic minimalist décor, exposed limestone vaults, a rock-hewn staircase, and even a room in a cave that once formed the stables.”
The Grand Hôtel de Cala Rossa even offers a tree house with a 37 m2 bedroom to bring you closer to nature.
TRAVEL
Cala Rossa out of season In Porto-Vecchio, close to the beaches of Palombaggia and Santa Giulia, the Grand Hôtel de Cala Rossa is open between April and June, and then again in September and October for a more intimate experience. By Jean Berthelot de la Glétais IS THERE A PARTICULAR TIME THAT’S BEST FOR VISITING PORTO-VECCHIO AND ITS SURROUNDINGS?
Surely not, as a treasure trove of experiences awaits year ‘round to gratify every whim. But for those seeking peace and quiet, with long, solitary walks along the shore or in the mountains, a landscape resplendent with the colors of autumn or spring, coming here in the off-season is a luxury that simply must be savored. Between April and late June, then in September and October, the Grand Hôtel de Cala Rossa is the perfect point of departure for enjoying the paradisiacal beaches of Palombaggia, Santa Giulia, and the more intimate Tamaricciu. A mile or two away – so close, yet so exotic –, they sweep your soul to the ends of the earth in a glance. The hotel also offers a daily chance to explore the surrounding waters – shading from turquoise to midnight blue as the seasons pass –
aboard a wonderfully nostalgic wooden boat. For those preferring higher climes, the Ospedale Massif – a mountain range a half-hour from Porto-Vecchio – promises hikes amidst pines, beeches, and lakes. The air here is saturated with incomparable fragrances already announcing winter’s approach, while not quite able to let summer go, or celebrating the beginnings of spring. Coming here off-season means taking a languid horseback ride, perhaps around the beaches of Saint-Cyprien and Pinarello where, with a little luck, you could encounter a flamboyance of flamingos. For the ultimate in serenity, join the yoga class on the hotel’s pontoon, surrounded by the water, each pose lulled by the gentle surf. Then follow it with an invigorating exercise session led by an inspiring coach. Coming here off-season also, and especially, means taking your time: time
EVERYTHING JEAN BERTHELOT FINDS DELICIOUS ABOUT THE CALA ROSSA “In Corsica, what I find delicious is to taste a panfried fresh ceps, just picked in the nearby mountains, on a table facing the sea at the Cala Rossa hotel.”
to experience the spa’s massages and the refined skincare products used there – and available for purchase. It means lingering in the pool, treating yourself to a new haircut, having your beard or mustache trimmed as though in a barbershop of yesteryear. It also means indulging in Chef Pascal Cayeux’s gourmet variations, crafted with the season’s freshest ingredients. For those who care equally about gastronomy and ecology, visiting the large and lovely organic kitchen garden, growing lustily behind the hotel, is a must. Coming here offseason means a moment of enchantment, far from everything… except the beauty of the real Corsica. GRAND HÔTEL DE CALA ROSSA & SPA Route de Cala Rossa, 20137 Lecci, Porto-Vecchio, Corsica, France Tel.: +33 (0)4 95 71 61 51 www.hotel-calarossa.com
Pascal Cayeux, chef at the Grand Hôtel de Cala Rossa restaurant.
La Table de Cala Rossa serves lunch by the sea and dinner beneath age-old pine trees.
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CONCIERGE
5 spa experiences for children From the Maldives to Luberon to South Africa, children of all ages can enjoy spa experiences tailored to their needs. By Marie Faure-Ambroise 4. RITUALS FOR TEENS IN SOUTH AFRICA
The hotel: Between Stellenbosch and Franschoek, on the loftiest crest of the Helshoogte Pass, the Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa offers luxury accommodations in a landscape carpeted with vineyards. What’s on the spa menu: While parents enjoy soothing moments at the spa or by the pool, special well-being experts are available to teenagers for tailor-made wellness experiences. Among the à la carte treatments for ages 12 to 17 are a deep organic facial cleansing perfect for adolescent skin, a soothing massage, a cleansing back massage, and a full beauty ritual encompassing a facial cleansing treatment, a naturallooking makeover, and a deluxe manicure and pedicure.
1. A MOTHER-DAUGHTER MOMENT IN SPAIN
The hotel: Housed in a former paper mill just outside downtown Santiago de Compostela, the A Quinta da Auga Hotel & Spa combines the charm of yesteryear with quintessential comfort. What’s on the spa menu: Boasting a hydrotherapy pool, ice fountain, sauna, essential-oil showers, and whirlpools, the hotel’s five-star spa is one of the most beautiful in Galicia. For a timeless mother-daughter moment, reserve the Madre e Hija ritual: a rose-tinged bath and massage, facial, shampoo, and blow-dry. A full 210 minutes of happiness for two.
DELAIRE GRAFF LODGES & SPA R310, Helshoogte Pass, Banhoek Valley 7600, Stellenbosch, South Africa Tel.: +27 (0)21 885 8160 www.delaire.co.za
A QUINTA DA AUGA HÔTEL & SPA Paseo da Amaia 23b, 15706 Santiago de Compostela, Spain Tel.: +34 98 153 46 36 www.aquintadaauga.com
2. WELL-BEING FOR PETITE SWEETS LOVERS IN SWITZERLAND
The hotel: Located just above Leukerbad in a building dating back to 1834, Les Sources des Alpes blends traditional charm with contemporary flair. What’s on the spa menu: While adults enjoy a swim in the outdoor thermal pool, children (ages 12 and under) can enjoy special treatments designed just for them: a candy-floss-scent facial cleansing, a choconuts-scent nourishing facial mask, a massage with vanilla-strawberry or honey-vanilla cream, even a soothing honeyvanilla-scent massage for back, neck, arms and legs. HÔTEL LES SOURCES DES ALPES Tuftstrasse 17, 3954 Loêche-les-Bains, Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)27 472 20 00 www.sourcesdesalpes.ch
3. THE ART OF BABY MASSAGE IN LUBERON
The hotel: Deep in the Provencal vineyards, in the Luberon region of southern France, is Coquillade Village, a hotel designed for the family dream vacation. What’s on the spa menu: The spa, spanning 1500m2, offers a sauna, hammock, steam bath, Kneipp baths, ice fountain, sensory shower, heated indoor pool, and outdoor Jacuzzis, just what city-dwellers need to achieve true relaxation. Beyond the treatments usually available to adults, the Spa holds special sessions to teach you how to massage your baby, either à la carte or in a miniworkshop. There are also babysitters available at the Spa, so parents can leave their little ones in capable hands while enjoying that solo treatment they’ve longed for.
5. KID-SIZED WELL-BEING IN THE MALDIVES
The hotel: In the middle of the Indian Ocean, tucked between a coral reef and a lush jungle, the Soneva Fushi is an island paradise for chic Swiss Family Robinsons. The five-star hotel offers a movie theater, an observatory, an outstanding kids’ club, a spa, and six restaurants. What’s on the spa menu: Between the yoga classes for tykes, pool parties, and treasure hunts, children can reserve spa treatments with their friends, along with manicures and hairstyling. For kids only! SONEVA FUSHI Kunfunadhoo Island, Baa Atoll Republic of Maldives, Kunfunadhoo Island, Maldives Tel.: +960 660 0304 www.soneva.com/soneva-fushi
WHY TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN IS SO DELICIOUS FOR MARIE FAURE-AMBROISE
COQUILLADE VILLAGE Le Perrotet, 84400 Gargas, France Tel.: +33 (0)4 90 74 71 71 www.coquillade.fr
“Discovering the world through their eyes is delicious. With the children, we travel completely differently... We learn to take our time, to stop, to breathe, to answer their thousand questions and to enjoy every moment. We learn to become curious again too, it’s wonderful.”
SECTIONS TRAVEL (EN) VOYAGE (FR)
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
CUISINE (EN) CUISINE (FR)
Isabelle Mical
COMMITMENTS (EN) ENGAGEMENTS (FR)
CONCIERGE (EN) CONCIERGE (FR) 16
Philippe Gombert
MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTION Yorgo & Co
LAYOUT
Virginie Oudard
EDITORIAL COORDINATION Les Digitalistes
Issue 7 - Spring-Summer 2019
CONTRIBUTORS
Elvira Masson, Rosa Park, Benoît Peeters, Lindsey Tramuta, Joann Pai, Sophie Cornibert, Arturo & Bamboo, Patrick Locqueneux, Céline Marks, The Rollinson, Jean Berthelot de La Glétais, Marie Faure.
PHOTO CREDITS
Benjamin Loyseau, Rich Stapleton, Aurélia Aurita, Joann Pai, Andrea Moretti, Il Borro, Langdon Hall, Adrian Ehrbar, Avaton, Olivier Marie, Greendale Farm, Arturo & Bamboo, Patrick Locqueneux, Céline Marks, The Rollinson, Magali Maricot, A Quinta da Auga Hotel & Spa, Soneva Fushi, Coquillade Village, Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa, Hôtel Les Sources des Alpes.
PRODUCTION
Relais & Châteaux uses paper manufactured using wood pulp from sustainably managed forests. Printed by: Advence In accordance with case law, Relais & Châteaux® will accept no responsibility whatsoever for any involuntary error or omission occurring despite the attentive care and checks applied during production of this magazine. This magazine is published by Relais & Châteaux® SIRET FR 33 306 446 675 00010. 58-60, rue de Prony, 75017 Paris - France. No part of this magazine may be reproduced.