Nespresso Magazine #28 Seoul - English edition by Les Digitalistes

SEOUL

Spring-Summer 2017 € 5,90 SFR 7,00 £ 4.90 $ 8.00

EULHO SUH

ESSENTIAL ARCHITECT

CITY GUIDE CLUB MEMBERS’ FAVOURITE PLACES

URBAN FASHION SOUTH-KOREAN STYLE INSPIRES THE PLANET

COOL BREEZE NESPRESSO REINVENTS ICED COFFEE

EDITORIAL Jean-Marc Duvoisin

* Welcome to Seoul.

DEAR CLUB MEMBERS,

This latest issue of Nespresso Magazine takes you to Seoul, South Korea’s bustling, booming capital. A natural destination choice, as the city’s millions of inhabitants are developing passion for coffee unparalleled in Asia. Seoul, in all its bewitching vitality, is making up for time lost during the turbulence of the 20th century by focusing on the future and evolving at breakneck speed. This positive energy has pushed South Koreans to express a cascade of creativity and a lifestyle that inspires the entire planet. Seoul architect Eulho Suh, our Citizen of Honour, takes us through the gates and into this vast capital of ceaselessly changing cityscapes. This man imbues the buildings he designs with unique character, acting on his dream of creating a new urban dynamic that straddles multiple eras. In Seoul’s crowded avenues and steep alleyways, talent effervesces at every turn. You will meet Fabrikr, a duo of designers who recycle old places and things, giving them new life and purpose. At Nespresso, that philosophy is essential: our capsules’ aluminium is recycled, too, in a process explained in the back of this issue. But innovation also involves knowing the value of the past. The success of temple cuisine, a subject we cover in depth here, heralds a need to reconnect with the country’s traditional culture, steeped in Buddhism. This culinary craft is sending ripples out into contemporary dining, inspiring a new generation of South Korean chefs. We met two of its best representatives, Jungsik Yim and Mingoo Kang. Like the music known as K-pop, South Korean gastronomy is helping spread the country’s culture and reputation worldwide, as evidenced by the new wave called hallyu. I invite you to emulate the Seoulites. Prepare your favourite recipe for your ideal coffee moment – an Espresso or Latte, to unwind – before exploring this city by perusing these pages. Or give into the temptation, perhaps, of the bracing refreshment to be found in our new Grands Crus, Intenso On Ice and Leggero On Ice, in an Iced Coffee break, courtesy of Nespresso. May your reading and your coffee both offer you memorable moments, JEAN-MARC DUVOISIN

Chief Executive Officer, Nestlé Nespresso S.A.

CONTRIBUTORS

Our Team BORIS CORIDIAN Editor-in-Chief

Boris, a food writer and founder of the Les Digitalistes agency, is interested in the culture of taste in its many forms. “In Seoul, I discovered a palette of flavours of rare subtlety. This gastronomic treasure is echoed in the passion South Koreans have for coffee, which they drink hot or cold, at any hour of the day.”

MICKAËL A. BANDASSAK Photographer

A culinary photographer for numerous publications (The New York Times, Omnivore...), Mickaël indulges his addiction in good food and lattes. “The city of Seoul moves at top speed and there’s coffee just about everywhere. The ideal time to enjoy a Capriccio Latte is late afternoon: you take a break, watch the sun go down and see the city catch its breath before the neon signs and steaming streetfood stands take over.”

VIRGINIE GARNIER Photographer

Virginie, a lifestyle photographer, enjoys telling stories and bringing harmony to the world around her. She captures simple, spontaneous moments that remain true and natural. “I find that one of life’s most soothing moments is smelling coffee on Sunday morning, long, full, comforting, taking its time, served with just a splash of milk. My favourite Grands Crus: a Vivalto Lungo in the morning and a Volluto Espresso after lunch.”

NESPRESSO MAGAZINE is published by the Nestlé Nespresso S.A. Group Avenue de Rhodanie 40 1007 Lausanne - Switzerland PUBLICATION DIRECTOR Jean-Marc Duvoisin. EXECUTIVE EDITOR Lise Peneveyre. CONCEPT/PRODUCTION LES DIGITALISTES 9, rue Emilio Castelar 75012 Paris, France. Tel. +33 (0)1 43 44 55 20 contact@lesdigitalistes.com lesdigitalistes.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Boris Coridian. ART DIRECTION Virginie Oudard. COORDINATOR Sophie Bouniot. EDITORIAL SECRETARY Marine Paris. STUDIO MANAGER François Scavo. CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Mickaël A. Bandassak, Juliette de Cadoudal, Célia Callois, Audrey Cosson, Virginie Garnier, Hem8tt, Icinori, Guillaume Jan, Grégoire Kalt, Florian Lucas, Mr. Pink, Stéphane Remael, Sophie Rivat, Panda Media, with Dooseung Lee and Yunbi An. TRANSLATION TagLine. PHOTOLITHO Compos Juliot. PRINTING Mohn media Mohndruck GmbH.

AUDREY COSSON Food stylist

Audrey, a food stylist and author, is an incorrigible gastronome. She draws inspiration from her travels to dream up new recipes and prepare them for loved ones. “I loved diving into the culture of Seoul and South Korea, where I discovered a cuisine of great depth, breadth, flavour and subtlety. Like Seoulites, I’m a coffee addict and can’t live without a Roma Cappuccino after lunch.”

STÉPHANE REMAEL Photographer

GUILLAUME JAN Journalist and writer

As a journalist and writer, this world traveller has crisscrossed the globe for a quarter century, meeting its inhabitants and seeing its lands, seas and cities. “In the frenzy that is Seoul, I developed the habit of drinking cold-brewed coffee. It’s refreshing, and I really enjoy the mild bitterness.”

This photographer likes getting out into nature, but cannot muster life without an urban edge. “It’s easy to love Seoul. It’s bursting with charming traditional quarters and futuristic districts with designer buildings. What I’ll remember about this capital is the aroma of a Darkhan Espresso first thing in the morning, the bustle of the pedestrian streets and the sizzle of the night.”

This magazine is printed on paper certified by

© Copyright 2017 Nestlé Nespresso S.A. All rights reserved. Nespresso, the names of the various Nespresso coffee varieties and the Nespresso logos mentioned in the Nespresso Magazine are trademarks of the Société des Produits Nestlé S.A. that may be registered in certain countries.

CONTENTS Spring-Summer 2017

p. 28

p. 36

p. 12 p. 44

p. 52

p. 80

p. 86

p. 64

p. 94 3

EDITORIAL

NOW 6

CALENDAR

Culture aCross the planet 10 THE N MOMENT

urban frenzy and Cold brews

DESTINATION SEOUL 12 CITY GUIDE

seven Club MeMbers share their favourite plaCes

26 MUST SEE

10 reasons to go to seoul 28 CITIZEN OF HONOUR

eulho suh: the soul of a City 34 EXTRAORDINARY STORY

Coffee fit for a King

36 STREET STYLE fashion parade 44 CHEFS TO WATCH

JungsiK yiM and Mingoo Kang 50 CULT OBJECT

two ChopstiCKs and a spoon 52 FLY BY NIGHT

partying with seoul 60 INSPIRING TALENT

the fabriKr designers 64 CULINARY HERITAGE

the origins of taste 72 A TOUCH OF WHIMSY

enChanted MoMents

94 LIFESTYLE

Coffee on iCe 100 DESIGN

view ColleCtion: the Clear ChoiCe

102 NESPRESSO PRO

exClusive seleCtion: exCellenCe par exCellenCe 104 RECYCLED ALUMINIUM

the virtuous CirCle 106 NEWS

ristretto deCaffeinato: intensity at any tiMe

74 SUCCESS STORY

the K-pop Craze 80 GOURMET COFFEE

sweet harMonies

NESPRESSO & YOU 86 EXPLORATIONS COLLECTION

taste frontiers

COFFEE MARK

eulho suh RECIPES

food-Coffee pairings INFORMATION

addresses and seoul City guide Map

the

NOW Seoul

The Pino Familia museum was designed by architect Moon Hoon.

CREATIVE LATITUDES

Whether in art, design or fashion, inspiration cares nothing for time zones. Wherever on earth you may be, you Will find something to appreciate in our cultural calendar. By Sophie Rivat

seoul Pinocchio finds a home The work of South Korean architect Moonbalsso (aka Moon Hoon) always draws reactions – of varying intensity – from the people of Seoul. His latest undertaking is the Pino Familia, a museum devoted to Pinocchio built in the north-east part of the capital. The sponsor behind the site is a day-care centre director and a collector of dolls resembling the wooden marionette that wanted to become a real little boy. The story does not tell us whether Geppetto, the carpenter who carved the wooden character, would find his creature amidst

the plethora of models and gigantic statues that spiritedly dot the grounds and line the curved interiors of the three uniquely shaped buildings, each a nod to fantastic features of the famous tale written in 1881 by Carlo Collodi. Doll collections, a concert hall and screening room, a gigantic auditorium, a cafeteria, a swimming pool and even a miniature train on elevated tracks: at such an enchanting site, contrary to the moral of the Italian tale, playing and pretending are encouraged! > pinofamilia.co.kr

Moon Hoon

NOW Asia Japan sTaTe of diffUsion

Tokyo’s Ballon workshop is a white, muted world of amazing objects designed as essential-oil diffusers. The hand-carved plaster creations range from classic to wacky: perfume bottles (pictured), adorable animals, accessories inspired by dollhouses or Star Wars. All forming a curio cabinet of scented surprises that are coveted by Japanese decorators and celebrities. > ballon.jp

vietnam aRTisTs To WaTch

The first art catalogue to showcase the contemporary Vietnamese art scene compiles the work of 56 artists, painters, sculptors, photographers and videographers. The richly illustrated compendium has been published as a preamble to a major exhibition to be held in September at London’s Saatchi Gallery. > Vietnam Eye: Contemporary Vietnamese Art,

Serenella Ciclitira, 376 pages.

hina ada desiGn need a dose of dadaism? then enter the unconventional World of maison dada, a neW design editor based in shanghai. from interpretations to inventio ns to reinventions, these offbeat creations are soulful and inspiring. the collections by french designer thomas dariel , the brand’s founder, are on display in a Jing’an district shoWroom and young local artists are given ample place in the spotlight. the furniture is made in shanghai by a Japanese craftsman, the Wool-and-silK carpets (PICTURED) are hand-Woven . “made in china” taKes on a Whole neW feeling! > maisondada.com

turKey KniT PicKinG

Behind budding Turkish fashion brand Knitss stands Umut Boz and his wife, Duygu. He’s an industrial engineer and heir to a knits empire; she’s a fashionista who grew up in the textile world, as well. Their label produces smooth, luxurious weaves that are canvases for bold designs and brilliant colours. The women’s ready-to-wear and clutches (pictured) now mean Knitts is the name on everyone’s lips. Coming soon: men’s fashions! > knitss.com

NOW Europe

united Kingdom shade scRUTinY

For the past decade, Dutch designer Hella Jongerius has been studying the way the colour palette conditions what we see. I Don’t Have a Favourite Colour is both her credo and the title of one of her books, which explores the same theme as her Breathing Colour installation on display at the new Design Museum. This cultural institution, which relocated to Kensington, west of London, has found a home in a modernist 1960s building, completely revamped by John Pawson, the high priest of minimalist architecture. 28 June - 24 September > designmuseum.org

sWitzerland BeWiTchinG BLUe

Ulysse Nardin explores the rare art of enamelling in a new version of its legendary timepiece, the Classico Manufacture. The deepblue “Grand Feu” enamel dial is the work of master craftspersons specialising in this 17th-century decorative technique. The 40mm steel case houses the remarkable UN-320 calibre, a flat movement designed and manufactured by the Swiss watchmaker. > ulysse-nardin.com

“Coloured Vases (series 3)”, 2010, Hella Jongerius.

italy animaL aRT

Italy’s Elena Salmistraro designed the Mandrillus, Kandti and Brazza vases to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Venetian ceramic brand, Bosa. These handcrafted articles glowing with precious metals form the Primates collection, inspired by African ape species. The bold lines and carefully worked details bring these singular faces to life, evoking the unique relationship between man and animal. > bosatrade.com

arcelona T home WiTh aUdÍ the first house designed by antoni gaudÍ, the cataloni an capital’s emblematic architect, is noW open to the public. the building has been a unesco World heritage site since 2005, acting as a harbinger of modernism in catalonia and art nouveau in europe. it Was Within these Walls that the archite ct forged his style, a miX of baroQue, asian and islamic influen ces paired With geometric compleXity. the casa vicens museum also offers an immersive gaudÍ eXperience, With rooms for rent in situ. opens in october. > casavic ens.org

NOW Americas meXico PoP RocK

The Peca studio in the trendy city of Guadalajara is on a roll. Founders Caterina Moretti and Ana Saldaña use characteristically Mexican raw materials, like wood or marble, in their designs, taming them with the help of local craftsmen and guest designers. The Lava collection, teetering between tradition and innovation, celebrates the solid, natural quality of black lava rock. From partially polished plates (pictured) to shelves, seats and tables, the simple geometrics and functional lines of these creations have become hot property. > peca.com.mx

united states aVanT-GaRde aRchiTecT

A century and a half ago, American architect Frank Lloyd Wright, that wunderkind of horizontality, was born (1867-1959). New York’s Museum of Modern Art is exhibiting 450 works – furniture, models, textiles, and more – that express his revolutionary language and quest for simplicity and light. > Frank Lloyd Wright at 150: Unpacking the Archive,

12 June - 1 October > moma.org

razil aULisTa PaLace prestigious hotel group the oetKer collection has a neW home in sÃo paulo, brazil’s economic capital, at the luXurious palÁcio tangarÁ, named for a colourful amazonian bird. rooms and suites overlooK a parK designed by carioca architect roberto burle marX, With interiors by big-name patricia anastassiadis. culinary creations are the WorK of michelin-starred brazilian design firms led by bicK simonato and chef Jean-georges vongerichten. a ballroom, indoor and outdoor pools, and much more maKe for celestial accommodations for connoisseurs! > oetkercollection.com

NOW The N moment

drink a lot of coffee,” explains Kim, a sociology student sitting on a terrace near the University of Hongdae. When her classes are over, the young woman likes to sip a glass of cold-brewed coffee served with a straw and ice cubes. “It’s not an iced coffee, nor is it hot coffee cooled with ice cubes,” she says. “It’s a cold brew. It’s easy to make, but it takes time. About 100 grams of ground coffee is left to brew in a carafe of cold water for about fifteen hours.”

Urban frenzy

AND COLD BREWS By Guillaume Jan Illustration Célia Callois

WHEN VISITORS FIRST SET FOOT IN SEOUL, THEY ARE OFTEN SURPRISED BY THE BUSTLING VITALITY OF THE SHOPPING LANES IN MYEONG-DONG, amazed at the

glitzy avenues of Gangnam, astounded further by the frenzy consuming the crowded walkways of the Hongdae student district. From dawn until the wee hours, the entire city thrums with intense energy and whirrs with curiosity about the world, an obsession with novelty, an openness to sensory experiences of every kind. Time and temptations rush past at a gallop, each day spiralling by with invigorating, all-enveloping speed. “To keep this pace, we

Since the late 1990s, South Koreans’ passion for coffee has been revived as they experiment with new ways to enjoy it. “We discovered latte, Americano, mocha, macchiato. Then, since summers here are hot, we served them cold, with ice. And for the past two or three years, we’ve particularly come to like cold brew. We drink it mostly in summertime, and increasingly often during our evenings out. It can be flavoured with lemon peel, mint or tonic water.” What could be behind the success of this surprisingly thirst-quenching and always bracing brewed beverage? Elle Jeon, barista at Fritz Coffee Company, points out that cold brewing produces a milder, silkier coffee that is easier to digest: “It’s well suited to Seoulite tastes, as we prefer smoother coffee blends to excessively bitter ones. I’ve even converted people to cold brew who’ve told me they don’t like coffee.” But she has a second explanation for cold brew’s popularity in Seoul: “Starting in 2015, the famous American barista Charles Babinski started appearing in adverts for this brew. He’s pretty handsome. I think he had a lot of influence, especially with young women!” n

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CITY Guide

SEOUL

SEARCHING SEVEN MEMBERS OF THE NESPRESSO CLUB, ENAMOURED OF THE SOUTH KOREAN CAPITAL, SHARE THE LOCAL PLACES THEY TREASURE. OLD-FASHIONED MARKETS, TRENDY EATERIES, MUST-SEE MUSEUMS, LITTLE-KNOWN WONDERS. HEED THE IRRESISTIBLE CALL OF THE INSIDER’S SEOUL. By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak and Stéphane Remael (Opening)

You’ll find all the locations mentioned in this City Guide on our map in the back of the magazine.

A photo op in Bukchon, a village of hanoks, or traditional houses.

The N Seoul Tower serves as a landmark for Seoulites.

The capital is crisscrossed by immense thoroughfares shaping the urban landscape.

The Gangnam district achieved world renown through “Korean pop”.

The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a futuristic symbol of present-day Seoul.

16 ZUHYUNG YU, FASHION ENTREPRENEUR, MEMBER SINCE 2012 THOUGH STYLE CAN BE IMITATED, ELEGANCE IS SOMETHING ONE IS BORN WITH. Zuhyung Yu, with his meticulous,

minimalist look, embodies the generation of South Koreans that was simply born chic. The native of Seoul – “Gwacheon, south of the capital,” he says – arrives for the interview with the intriguing blend of approachability and reserve oft-seen in his compatriots. All while exuding natural charm and charisma. When asked about his profession, he initially lets a modest silence hang in the air to answer in his stead. Then, with some reluctance, he replies, “I would say... fashion entrepreneur. But it’s difficult to define what I do.” The young CEO launched his business in the fashion world after an intercontinental childhood – he grew up in Tokyo, Singapore, New Zealand – and a higher education in London. But Seoul’s magnetic pull was too strong. “I feel intimately connected to this city. Seoul has developed so quickly – it has a subtle classicism with a contemporary edge.” On the fringe of his responsibilities as CEO of his company, this coffee lover – his favourites are RISTRETTO and ARPEGGIO – made another delicious dream of his come true. Zuhyung Yu opened Café Onion, a trendy place serving hot and cold beverages along with sweet and savoury treats. The café’s rough-hewn, relaxed, uncluttered ambiance, the work of the Fabrikr design duo (see our article on page 60), is a vivid example of the timbre of the new Seoulite lifestyle. BROOKLYN CHIC CAFÉ ONION 1

“I think this place I opened embodies the new ‘fashion’ lifestyle in Seoul. It’s inside an old building that was renovated in a very roughhewn, unpolished style. People come to drink coffee prepared by a renowned barista, to enjoy the feeling of spaciousness and the music. In South Korea, coffee is really the top tool for socialising.”

17 VINTAGE VESTMENTS VILLA DEL COREA, MOBEL LAB ET RETROSPECS 3

“Off the beaten path of the main shopping thoroughfares, this concept store inside a house in the Seongbuk area is a goldmine. Villa del Corea sells Seoul’s finest suits and shoes. Mobel Lab takes you back in time with its Scandinavian furniture from different eras. And RetroSpecs, located upstairs, has a high-quality selection of vintage glasses.”

SERVE CHILLED EULJI MYUN OAK 2

“You must try the cold noodles made Pyongyangstyle and experience the subtlety of the buckwheat pasta and the intensity of the chilled beef broth. This very down-to-earth restaurant serves this popular dish known as naengmyeon.”

GOURMET COFFEE ILSANG 5

“I always stop in this little café, where there’s clear proof of how much Seoulites like this drink. The barista offers a remarkable selection of blends. Cold, hot, with milk, and the beverages are served in elegant, original cups and glasses.” FRESH IS AS FRESH DOES NORYANGJIN FISH MARKET 4

“The best place for a true Korean experience. I love the energy at this fish market and the packed, bustling walkways. You can order the seafood you want (often alive!) directly from the seller before eating it raw in one of the restaurants on the floor above.”

“The city has a subtle classicism with a contemporary edge.”

18 K-POP WATCH SUM CAFE ET SUM MARKET 6

“With a bit of luck, you’ll see a K-pop star!” Inside the building that is home to SM Entertainment, the country’s biggest label, a coffee shop and boutique showcase the label’s stars. And you must try the Exo smoothie, named after a major K-pop group.”

“Seoul is at once a crazy, impenetrable city that never sleeps, and a sanctuary.”

NEOCLASSICAL KOREAN JUNGSIM 7

THE TASTE OF JEJU POSEOKJEONG 8

“The perfect place to soak up the spirit of popular bistros, where you eat Jeju pork belly served one of two ways: grilled and topped with gochujang (fermented chilli paste) or simmered in a spicy sauce. Inside the Seoul bus station, the bus drivers sit around the grill and enjoy a glass of soju, Korea’s most popular alcoholic beverage.”

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

“We love this restaurant’s old-school atmosphere combined with newfangled traditional Korean cuisine. The soy-marinated raw shrimp is exquisite. And it’s a prize location, in the Itaweon district, where quality eateries can be hard to find.”

19 SUNHAE (PATRICIA) PARK AND DONGJOO LEE, DESIGNER, ENTREPRENEUR, AND INSURANCE MANAGER, MEMBERS SINCE 2016 IT’S NOT UNUSUAL TO HEAR SEOUL CALLED A CULTURAL BRIDGE between

Asia and the West. And, when talking with Dongjoo and Patricia (her middle name), this poetic image becomes a reality. The newlyweds long lived far from the Han River before settling here permanently. She was born in the United States, lived in Los Angeles, then in Hong Kong, and has dual American/Korean nationality. He often had his eye on South Korea from locations all over the world, when his family followed the missions of a diplomat father. But they are now building their lives in their homeland: Patricia is introducing her own brand of handbags after a career in the K-pop industry, and Dongjoo works with one of the South Korean giants. Their day begins with a cup of ROSABAYA DE COLOMBIA (for her) and ARPEGGIO (for him). “Seoul has so much energy! The city is at once a crazy, impenetrable city that never sleeps, and a sanctuary. In less than half an hour, you can get away to the surrounding mountains. And a one-hour flight will take you to 25 different cities,” reports the couple. Meanwhile, they explore Seoul’s delicious eating experiences.

SOJU-FOOD PAIRING CHOON SIK DANG q0

“It looks like an ordinary house, but the owners renovated it, turning it into a contemporary restaurant. They serve quirky Korean dishes – ah, the octopus with chilli! – paired with excellent soju or makkoli, a creamy-looking rice liquor.”

CHEESECAKE HEAVEN C27 9

“A cheesecake lover’s paradise! Green tea, lemon, ricotta-raspberry, chocolate-mint. The mammoth menu is reminiscent of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. It’s the perfect place to end the day on a sweet, mellow note, after a spicy meal.”

ART TRIPTYCH LEEUM, SAMSUNG MUSEUM OF ART qq

“This museum has buildings designed by renowned architects, like Mario Botta, Jean Nouvel and Rem Koolhaas. The first is home to collections of traditional Korean art. The second features 20th-century Korean and Western works. The third houses temporary exhibitions of artists such as Doho Suh or Olafur Eliasson.”

BYUNGCHAN (JAMES) DO, SENIOR STRATEGY MANAGER, MEMBER SINCE 2013 AT FIRST GLANCE, JAMES – THE WESTERN FIRST NAME he uses

during the interview – seems calm and reserved, with a low-key style and suit-and-tie professional life in the Land of the Morning Calm. “I was born in Seoul, I grew up in Seoul. This city is my home! As a senior manager at a major group for the past seventeen years, I’m interested in new marketing-related businesses,” says this Lungos fan. But as soon as he starts talking about his interest in painting, his face lights up. “I’m an art lover! I adore roaming through the city’s many museums. These places give me a chance to catch my breath, get perspective, especially on weekends.” He is a man of varied tastes: “I admire 20th- century Korean painters – their abstract works help me clear my head. There’s such emotion there, visiting them has become vital to me.” He finds that same finesse in a cup of VOLLUTO, which he enjoys on his coffee breaks at work. Why not become an artist in his own right, we ask James? Surprising reply: “Once I retire, my dream is actually to open... a bakery.” He’s unpredictable, James is.

21 SOUL SOOTHING WHANKI MUSEUM qs AND KIM CHONG YUNG MUSEUM qd

“Whanki Kim is the 20th-century master of Korean abstract painting. Kim Chong Yung is considered the pioneer of modern abstract sculpture in Korea. These uncrowded museums are at the bottom of Bukhansan National Park, fifteen minutes from downtown Seoul. I come here when the urban stress gets to be too much for me.”

SACRED SITE CHUNGDONG CHURCH qf

Whanki Kim, Whanki Museum

“This was the first Protestant church in South Korea, founded in 1898. I met my wife here, and this is where we got married. In autumn, the trees’ colourful foliage makes the whole place very romantic.”

ROLL WITH IT MEALDO qg

“If you’re patient – as there’s often a line stretching down the sidewalk – this bakery is worth the trip. Their buns are deliciously moist and the brioche as light and fluffy as could be. A bread-lover’s dream!”

“I’m an art lover and adore roaming through the city’s many museums.”

“We explore the capital’s bookstores and galleries.”

TRANQUIL TEA HOUSE SUYEONSANBANG qj

SECRET GARDEN CHANGDEOKGUNG PALACE qh

“Changdeokgung, built after the Gyeongbokgung Palace, is the best-preserved of the five Joseon-era palaces still standing. It has a secret garden, Biwon: every change of season shows a new facet of this park, which has remained unchanged for centuries. It’s a very moving experience.”

COOL CONCEPT STORE QUEENMAMA MARKET qk

“This building has a bold architectural style and, inside, a selection of designer objects, a superb bookstore and an excellent café. On the top floor, a spacious room opens onto a terrace overlooking a park. Perfect for quiet reading, sipping a cold-brewed coffee.”

“In the restful neighbourhood of Seongbukdong, where many artists live, you simply must go to Suyeonsanbang. This traditional residence was the home of Yi Tae-jun, a 20th-century Korean author. Though it’s now a tea house, it has lost none of its charm. We love the ambiance of the garden and the peaceful beauty to be found here.”

GOWOON AND GREEM HA, PROFESSOR OF KOREAN LITERATURE AND DESIGNER, MEMBERS SINCE 2015 THE TWO SISTERS ARE LIKE TWO SIDES OF A COIN: different,

but inseparable! “We may not have the same personality, but we both have the same love of coffee,” says Gowoom, the eldest (at right in the photo). She settled in Seoul ten years ago, teaching Korean literature. Greem, the younger sister (at left in the photo) came along four years later, working at a major designer brand. “We adore discovering new things and love exploring bookstores and galleries the most,” they confess. But the pleasures of the palate are always nearby. “We live near the Gwangjang market, very famous for its street-food stands.” Together, they navigate the capital from end to end, seeking out the best coffee shops. Each has her own coffee ritual. Gowoon likes a cup of Espresso in the morning to start her day off right. “My favourites are the VOLLUTO and ROSABAYA DE COLOMBIA Grands Crus.” Greem prefers hot or iced Lungos, “but I also love making myself cappuccinos at work,” she adds.

INSPIRED TRIBUTE YOON DONG-JU LITERATURE MUSEUM ql

“Yoon Dong-ju is one of Korea’s most popular poets. This museum, built in abandoned water tanks, opened in 2012 and inspires visitors to rediscover the poet’s anthology, Heaven, Wind, Stars, and Poems (1948).”

SENSORY SEDUCTION FRITZ COFFEE COMPANY s0

“The smell of roasting beans, pastries fresh from the oven, the perfect background music: this very popular café is truly a sensory experience. Fritz is the perfect place to enjoy hot (or cold!) drinks and tempting tasty treats. The upstairs room is an ode to relaxation – we can spend hours there.”

GUNNY PARK, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, MEMBER SINCE 2012 “WHEN I WAS YOUNGER, ALL I WANTED TO DO WAS TRAVEL!

Today, I care more about staying in my own country, to discover all its wonders,” says this artistic director whose look alone speaks volumes about his highly developed sense of visual impact. Gunny works at a large advertising agency in the Korean capital. He finds the details of existence to be a source of potential inspiration: “In the morning, when I’m making a café au lait with my AEROCCINO, I never tire of watching the milk froth blending into the coffee. I also love the potency of the intense Grands Crus, like DHARKAN and KAZAAR.” He refers to his hometown as an “enthralling hell,” explaining that “Seoul doesn’t open itself up outright to foreigners. But this city is full of positive vibes! It’s constantly metamorphosing.” He feels – as does his wife, who joined him at this interview – that people must reach past the first impression they might develop of the city’s inhabitants being distant. “I used to say that Koreans can give the impression of being reserved. But as soon as you get over that initial barrier, they effusively extend their friendship!”

STREET FOOD TEMPLE GWANGJANG MARKET sq

“This covered market – one of the oldest in Seoul – is also home to the temple of street food. Dozens of vendors make gimbaps (stuffed rice rolls wrapped in seaweed), mandus (large local ravioli filled with meat or kimchi), hotteoks (sweet filled pancakes) right before your eyes. A veritable feast!” (See the recipe cards with the food-coffee pairings at the back of the magazine.)

25 GOOD DEALS TONGIN MARKET ss

“This market, smaller than Gwangjang and not as crowded, is perfect for a quick, cheap lunch on the go. For 5,000 won, you can get a delicious, amply laden tray. And it’s close to the Gyeongbokgung Palace.”

TENT TÊTE-À-TÊTE THE POJANGMACHAS

“Come nightfall, the locals, of every generation and background, end up in a pojangmacha. This traditional café is set up in a tent and has a very characteristic, nostalgiatinged ambiance. You enjoy some soup or a simple dish, washed down with a glass of soju or beer. I love the one under the Dongjak Bridge on the right bank.”

“This city is full of positive vibes and constantly metamorphosing.” MEN’S TAILOR STEADY-STATE sd

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

“Here they sew tailor-made men’s shirts, the quintessence of style. The workshop overlooks the city and I love the ambiance and superb service. It’s about more than just buying a nice article of clothing. Right next door is the chic, unfussy Relieve Café, perfect for a quick refreshment.”

MASTERCHEF SUPER PAN sf

“The woman running the kitchens at this bistro is a culinary arts teacher who opened her own business. Her husband’s in the dining room, deftly advising customers on wines. The menu is Korean, but bears many other cultural influences. It’s a relaxed, family atmosphere, and it’s a good idea to reserve ahead.”

Ten reasons to go to SEOUL

1. SUP WITH THE STARS

In April 2017, Seoul cut the ribbon to a building that towers over its neighbours. The tip of the Signiel hotel pierces the sky, topping 555 metres and 123 floors. On the 81st floor is Stay, the urban concept restaurant, the property of French multiMichelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno. Now you can savour the culinary creations of one of world’s greatest chefs with the city at your feet. > Lotte World Tower. www.lottehotel.com/ signielseoul/en

2. SHIVER IN THE DARK

Every midsummer, the capital’s film fans flock to darkened rooms for the BiFan, the Bucheon International Fantastic Film Festival. A chance to see all the genre’s stars traipse across the red carpet and watch hundreds of preview screenings. Though the event is designed for all audiences, more adventurous adults can seek out shrieks and shivers from the horror movies in the festival’s Forbidden Zone. > BiFan, -23 July, various Bucheon venues (in Seoul’s western suburbs). www.bifan.kr

3. ROLL IN THE MUD

Every summer since 1998, Daecheon Beach, two hours south of Seoul, has been the site of a curious ritual: intrepid souls from around the world hurl themselves into the mire at the Boryeong Mud Festival. This gargantuan event serves to promote the cosmetic virtues of the local mud, which is packed with nutrients and minerals. Activities include baths, massages, slides, wrestling, and more – all plastered in mud! > Boryeong Mud Festival, 21-30 July, Daecheon Beach. www.mudfestival.or.kr

4. DRESS UP AS YOUR FAVOURITE HERO

Seoul is hosting its first Comic Con this summer. The event (short for “Comic Convention”) first sprang up in San Diego, California, in 1970, and still unites fans of superheroes, science fiction and heroic fantasy. The city’s comic connoisseurs will have the chance to meet their favourite cartoonists and collect comics, figurines and video games, or even sit in the famous Iron Throne from the Game of Thrones series. The crowning touch! > Comic Con Seoul, 4-6 August at the COEX. www.comiccon.co.kr

5. CAMP ALONG THE HAN

All summer long, Seoul’s 11 parks along the Han River are the sites of the Hangang Summer Festival. With 80 activities, there’s something for everyone: circus shows, concerts, street arts, cycling, paper-boat races, night-time markets, fun water sports and even camping. A breath of fresh air in the urban jungle. > Hangang Summer Festival, mid-July to mid-August.

Must See THERE ARE ENDLESS EXCELLENT EXCUSES TO DISCOVER THIS CITY. IN 2017 AND 2018, SEOUL ROLLS OUT AN ALLURING LINE-UP OF MAJOR FESTIVE, FOODIE AND ATHLETIC EVENTS THAT MAKE IT MORE THAN WORTH THE TRIP. HERE’S A HANDFUL. By Florian Lucas Photo Stéphane Remael

6. DANCE IN HONGDAE

When there’s a tinge of autumn in the air, things start hopping in the South Korean capital. Especially at the Zandari Festa, a music festival that starts in late September in the trendy Hongdae district. But here, unlike at sprawling commercial festivals, artists publically present their new musical creations in a more personable setting. Most even help organise the event, alongside the many volunteers. A truly down-to-earth, harmonious happening. > Zandari Festa, late September, in Hongdae. www.zfesta.com

7. DO A CULTURE SHOT

At the Seoul Street Art Festival (formerly the Hi Seoul Festival), streets become stages, sidewalks turn to catwalks, and buildings morph to backdrops. The shows entertain the capital for five days, ranging from classic to contemporary – circus, theatre, giant puppets, parades, jazz concerts, fireworks, and more. A perfect way to explore the city while sampling a buffet of local culture at its best. > Seoul Street Art Festival, late September, in various venues, including Gwanghwamun Square, Seoul Plaza and Chyeonggye Plaza.

8. TASTE THE WORLD

The Itaewon district, home to the US military base, is a magnificent melting pot: Indian, Turk, French, Thai, Mexican – and all have brought their culture and national dishes with them. The October festival is a great opportunity to sample foods from these and other countries, while live stage shows, costume parades and concerts keep the weekends buzzing. > Itaewon Global Village Festival, in October.

9. WATCH THE BEST BARISTAS

Since the Seoul Cafe Show was first introduced in 2002, the event has become a magnet for all bean buffs. And this year, the festival is hosting the World Barista Championship: 60 champions from the national qualifiers must prepare four espressos, four milkbased beverages and four signature drinks, all in 15 minutes and to music! They will be judged on taste, creativity and presentation. > Seoul Cafe Show, 9-12 November at the COEX. www.cafeshow.com

10. ATTEND THE OLYMPICS

The 2018 Winter Olympics will be held in Pyeongchang district in north-eastern South Korea. The two sites built especially for the occasion, Gangneung and Alpensia, will welcome 6,500 athletes and officials from 95 countries, competing in 15 disciplines. With the new high-speed train line between Seoul and Pyeongchang, the slopes are now just two hours away from the capital. A boon for Seoul’s snow lovers. > PyeongChang Winter Olympic Games, 9-25 February 2018. www.pyeongchang2018.com To attend the test events: www. hellopyeongchang.com

Eulho Suh THE SOUL OF A CITY HE STUDIED ARCHITECTURE IN THE UNITED STATES BEFORE RETURNING TO WORK IN SOUTH KOREA. ARMED WITH THIS DOUBLE-EDGED CULTURAL SWORD, EULHO SUH IS HELPING TO BUILD SEOUL WITH A CLEAR MISSION: REVEAL THE SOUL OF THIS CAPTIVATING CAPITAL. By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

CITIZEN of honour

INSEPARABLE Eulho Suh

and his wife, Kyungen Kim, in the Itaewon district.

SEOUL IS A CITY OF TREMENDOUS PROMISE. THIS VAST, FRENETIC, DIZZYING MEGALOPOLIS STRETCHES ACROSS FIFTY KILOMETRES and boasts several skyscrapers more

than 200 metres tall. The loftiest of them – 123 floors, 555 metres high – was just built and new neighbourhoods continue to mushroom on both sides of the Han River. Come nightfall, the edifice forest sparkles bewitchingly in the dark, tracing the shape of the skyline’s bold constructions in twinkling lights. It is a city of 20 million souls that is growing still, driven by the positive energy that renders it such a fascinating capital, surely one of the most appealing of the early 21st century. Industrial groups, like Samsung and Hyundai, have built their empires there. In the entertainment realm, Korean pop music, or K-pop (see our article on page 74), became a global phenomenon in the early 2000s, as did its TV series and movies. How did Seoul manage to reinvent itself so superbly after suffering total destruction during the Korean War of 1950-53? That was just one of the questions we wanted to ask Eulho Suh. The Seoul architect, a great lover of his country’s traditional culture and history, is known for his minimalist, avant-garde architectural achievements. He savours a challenge and has a reputation for trying new approaches with every project, all in a city that has yet to learn how to examine its direction, so much has economic competition taken priority over all things in recent decades.

“After the war, Seoul was completely destroyed,” says the dynamic fifty-something native. “The people became entirely invested in the city’s reconstruction, sparing no effort and wasting no energy on leisure or lifestyle. Rebuilding as quickly as possible was essential, and it’s undoubtedly that reconstruction race that planted the seed that grew into a culture eager to do everything quickly, ASAP. It is an attitude known as ppalli-ppalli (fast-fast). You’ll often hear that expression here.” Though his hair is dishevelled, his attire is understated and elegant, from his ecru-rimmed eyeglasses to his leather boots; he moves with feline grace and proves readily accessible, giving and modest. On this morning, his wife is with him, Kyungen Kim, a gentle woman of sunny disposition who works with him at the Suh Architects firm they founded in 2006. “Kyungen is my best colleague,” Eulho explains in impeccable English, the product of twenty-three years spent in the United States. “She knows me better than anyone and helps me take important decisions. We met in 1997 in Boston, while I was finishing up my studies at the Harvard University Graduate School of Design. She decided to pursue architecture after studying sculpture at the Rhode Island School of Design.” The two expatriates married in 1999, completed a few projects on the East Coast, and then crossed America by car to settle in Los Angeles in 2002. Their first child was born in 2004 and they returned to live in South Korea in 2006.

CHANGES

“When we got back to South Korea, we looked high and low to find those things we had so appreciated about our country, the images we liked,” Kyungen recalls. But the architects recognised little of their hometown. Eulho had left Korea in 1983 at the age of 19: “I had clear recollections of the long walks I’d taken with my father in the mountains around Seoul, and playing in the woods with my brother in the 1970s, when we would still spot wild animals.” Back then, Seoul looked nothing like it does now. The Gangnam district, on the Han River’s left bank, had just begun to develop, reducing the surfaces devoted to pear orchards or market gardening crops. Today, these verdant expanses have disappeared, replaced by stick-straight thoroughfares and banks of buildings rising 20 storeys or more. The latter are from the construction wave of apateu danji, concrete residential complexes offering clean, functional dwellings that were snapped up by Seoulites, being a welcome change from the traditional dwellings summarily rebuilt in the uneasy, hurried post-war period. “But most of these apateu danji were built on the cheap, without any urban planning involved,” Eulho explains. “When I came back to Seoul, I was surprised to see to what degree these places had no identity whatsoever.” And that became his architectural mission: “I told myself that I had to do my best to give Seoul buildings some kind of soul again, and that could be the main focus of my work.” In all his undertakings, Mr Suh is careful about the properties and quality of the materials used, giving particular attention to detail and finishes, and incorporates architectural nods to

“The urgency lies in giving buildings an identity.”

his country’s long history. His firm earned recognition from the very first orders it completed, hailed for its creativity, the care given each construction project, and the after-sales service. Today, Suh Architects has 25 employees and works throughout South Korea. “We could build spectacular structures with futuristic lines, like the Dongdaemun Design Plaza [by architect Zaha Hadid, Ed.], but I think the urgency lies in giving buildings an identity, so that they have meaning.” So that they have a soul. That morning, we were scheduled to visit the cafeteria at the Hyundai Motorstudio Seoul, an intriguing building in the chic, upscale Gangnam neighbourhood: five floors of recycled glass and steel that earned Eulho a flurry of professional awards. This revolutionary showroom presents the South Korean carmaker’s latest sedans in an unprecedented setting: the cars are displayed like rotisserie chickens, turning on skewers, a striking sight indeed from the street. “Hyundai gave me complete carte blanche – their only caveat was that the vehicles should be conspicuous.” After its ribbon-cutting in 2014, the building immediately drew public attention: “While showrooms of competing car manufactures get an average of ten visitors a day, this one brings in a hundred,” says the architect with feigned surprise. Over the decade they have been in business, these two have worked in every Seoul neighbourhood and offered to give us tours of some of their other achievements: two art galleries, a clinic, a gym, a cosmetics store, a few houses. With each visit, we more fully recognise Eulho’s subtle style, though he vigorously denies having one. “I just try to build solid, timeless, long-lasting buildings and give them a soul,” says Eulho. Kyungen expands on this: “South Korea is going through a period of cultural change right now, with a society that’s becoming more hedonistic, but also more certain of its own cultural identity. As architects, our role is to engage this •••

FIVE TURNING POINTS FOR EULHO SUH Born in Seoul. Leaves for the United States to study architecture at the Rhode Island School of Design and then at the Harvard University Graduate School of Design. 1999 Marries Kyungen Kim, an architecture student like himself, now also his business associate. 2006 Returns to Seoul with Kyungen and their first child. Founds Suh Architects. 2015 Wins the Grand Prize at the Korean Architecture Award. That same year, receives other prestigious awards in Korea, the United States and China. 1964 1983

“Being an architect is mostly about understanding human nature.”

movement.” After the deprivations of the postwar years, after the chaotic establishment of democracy in the late 1980s and the rough-hewn liberalism of the 1990s, the newer generations seem more inclined to enjoy life and savour these better days. Eulho adds, “In the space of half a century, Seoul has rebuilt itself at incredible speed. Now it’s time to give thought to where culture fits into all this mutation.” ATTENTION TO DETAIL

As he emphasised several times during our interview, Eulho had the good fortune of growing up in a family of curious, cultured artists and intellectuals who cared about aesthetics. His father, Se-ok Suh, a modern and refined painter, exhibits his black-ink paintings, inspired by traditional calligraphy, in the country’s most prestigious museums. His mother is an historian actively involved in the Arumjigi Foundation in 2001, created to breathe life into the vast world of Korean cultural heritage, helping the country’s inhabitants reconnect with their past. Lastly, his brother, Doho Suh, has also had great success in the arts, becoming one of South Korea’s most renowned contemporary visual artists. Eulho and Doho have collaborated on several projects, both in Seoul and abroad, such as at the 2010 Venice Biennale: their work Blueprint references the dwellings they have known in South Korea and the United States. The oeuvre entails an interpretation, but not a replica, of the family home that left a deep impression on the two brothers. “It’s a hanok [traditional dwelling, Ed.] built of

wood, without nails,” Eulho says about this house where he grew up. “The partitions are made of rice paper, everything is perfectly proportioned. It took us eight years to build it in the 1970s. That traditional house is actually why I became an architect. Do you want me to show it to you?” Twenty minutes later, he parks his car on a steep lane in the Seongbukdong district, on the slope of the mountain overlooking the central Gyeongbokgung Palace. We pass through the majestic wooden door and enter another world, a thousand miles removed from the frenzy of Seoul. At the end of a narrow alley of pines, the squat house with a slightly curved roof stands out against the crisp blue sky. Eulho’s mother appears, a tall, stately, beautiful woman who invites us into the structure’s main room. The architect continues: “One spring day, when a friend and I were bored, my father suggested we carve flowers in shards of brick. The next week, he incorporated our creations into the wall around the house. That meant that, in my own way, I had also been a part of its construction.” We go down into the garden, where everything is charmingly and simply laid out. The little flowers are still in the wall, meticulously carved. The day winds down and, as we return to his Itaewon office, Eulho talks about his profession: “Being an architect is mostly about understanding human nature, listening to people, observing them. Even if you have to devote years to mastering the technical dimensions of the trade, that only represents 10% of the actual work.” He talks about the walks in the mountains, and then returns to the subject of his ceaseless attention to detail: “That undoubtedly comes from those walks, when my father taught us to really contemplate nature. And nature is my first source of inspiration even today. Because aren’t buildings rather like nature? They can’t talk, but if you take the time to really study them, you can understand their message.” n

SEOULITE ARCHITECTURE THROUGH THE EYES OF EULHO AND KYUNGEN HYUNDAI MOTORSTUDIO SEOUL sg

“In Gangnam, the carmaker’s showroom has the new models displayed in a revolutionary setting, with a friendly coffee shop, a specialised library and an art gallery.” HITE COLLECTION sh

“In the same part of Gangnam, we redesigned the private collection of the headquarters of spirits maker HiteJinro,

incorporating a monumental work by Doho Suh, Cause & Effect. » DONGDAEMUN DESIGN PLAZA (DDP) sj

“On the right bank, this silvery building with flowing curves was designed by the late Zaha Hadid [who died in 2016, Ed.]. It’s a futuristic place that showcases creation and culture, with galleries and exhibition halls.”

LEEAHN GALLERY sk

“We built this streamlined gallery west of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul’s historic downtown. Numerous great artists exhibit their works there.” ARUMJIGI CULTURE KEEPERS FOUNDATION sl

“A few metres away, the Arumjigi building helps integrate our culinary, vestimentary and architectural traditions into today’s South Korean

culture. The gift shop is worth the trip.” JONGMYO SHRINE d0

“The Confucian royal shrine of Jongmyo, a legacy of the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910), is dedicated to the worship of ancestors. An inspiring place, so perfectly proportioned that it feels both empty and full.” > You’ll find all the locations on our map in the back of the magazine.

IN HIS WORKSHOP,

the architect assesses ongoing projects with a critical eye.

THE HYUNDAI MOTORSTUDIO,

an unexpected and popular building.

WORK SESSION

with a model.

STROLLING in Seoul.

EXTRAORDINARY Story

COFFEE FIT for the king AS THE 19TH CENTURY CAME TO A CLOSE, KOREA’S SOVEREIGN GOJONG FAMILY FORGED TIES OF MUTUAL ESTEEM WITH FRENCHWOMAN MARIE-ANTOINETTE SONTAG. SHE BECAME THE KING’S STEWARDESS AND INTRODUCED COFFEE TO THE KOREAN PENINSULA. By Guillaume Jan Illustration Icinori

“IT IS AN ELDERLY FRENCH MAIDEN LADY, A VERY RESPECTABLE WOMAN, WHO HAS LONG FAITHFULLY SERVED THE EMPEROR to take care of orders in Europe and oversee the

meals.” French novelist Pierre Loti, a guest of honour at the Deoksugung Palace in June 1901, recounts his stay in the Land of the Morning Calm in a vividly descriptive narrative, Madam Plum’s Third Youth (1905). The “elderly French maiden lady” who received the travel writer to dine at Emperor Gojong’s table and served the guests “coffee, liqueurs, cigars,” was a very real character. Unmarried, rather plain, yet lively, bright, diplomatic and having a gift for foreign languages, this woman of character played a small but important part in the history of modern Korea. After meeting Gojong in 1896, she became a behind-the-scenes catalyst, shaking up the ways things were done at the palace, bringing Western culture into the spotlight. It is said that it was she who gave the sovereign his first cup of coffee, thereby helping introduce this drink to that land, a beverage that is now a fundamental part of the Seoulite lifestyle. Her name was Marie-Antoinette Sontag. STIMULATING INTRODUCTION

Marie-Antoinette was born on 1 October 1838 in the Alsatian village of Aubure near the German border. She was orphaned as a teenager and joined her older sister, Marie-Pauline, in Russia, on the shores of the Baltic Sea. The young Frenchwoman readily took to her new surroundings, proved quite talented in the culinary arts and forged a strong friendship with Eugenie Weber, wife of diplomat Karl Ivanovich Weber. When the latter was appointed Russia’s representative in Seoul in 1885, Marie-Antoinette joined them there, serving as stewardess, at the age of 47, for the Russian legation. From Seoul, the “French maiden lady” discovered a land with a long and fascinating history, a place that had begun to open up to the world and modern times after years of isolationism, a peninsula fiercely coveted by its Chinese

and Japanese neighbours. In 1896, with the growing threat of invasion, Karl Ivanovich Weber suggested the sovereign take refuge for a few months on the Russian embassy’s premises. That proved to be the turning point for the Alsatian stewardess. Making the most of this unique proximity to King Gojong, the accomplished cook introduced this royal epicurean to the European lifestyle. A great coffee-drinker herself, she gave him his first initiation in the subtleties of the black beverage. The ruler came to like it and quickly developed a habit of drinking it at breakfast, after meals and when receiving visitors. THE FIRST COFFEE SHOP

In 1897, Gojong felt the need to assert himself with respect to the neighbouring Chinese and Japanese emperors and proclaimed himself Emperor of Korea. During this moment of political upheaval, he did not forget Marie-Antoinette, officially dubbing her the “imperial mistress of court ceremonies.” For five years, she took care of menus, spirits, coffee supplies (of course) and planning and executing the sumptuous parties and reception of foreign guests – like Pierre Loti. In 1902, the Alsatian demoiselle opened her own establishment very close to the palace. It was called the Hotel Sontag, a showcase of modern European tastes and technology, with electric lighting (the first building in Seoul to boast this luxury), telephone and bathrooms. It was here that she opened the Korean capital’s first coffee shop. Initially frequented by diplomats and a few foreign merchants, the coffee room inspired other stores and traders to strengthen the ties between Koreans and coffee. In 1909, shortly before Japan took possession of Korea (the occupation lasted more than thirty years, from 1910 to 1945), Marie-Antoinette Sontag sold her hotel and came to the South of France, living out her days near Cannes. Nostalgic for the quarter-century she spent in Korea, the elderly spinster renamed her villa “Au Pays du Matin Calme” – In the Land of the Morning Calm. n

WEISHIN WANG, AGE 26

This dynamic Taiwanese regularly comes to find inspiration in Seoul’s latest trends. “At every Fashion Week, I discover looks even more amazing than last year’s.”

STREET Style

FASHION PARADE IN THE STREETS OF SEOUL, CITIZENS PROUDLY AND PROMINENTLY DISPLAY THEIR AUDACIOUS ATTIRE AFFINITIES, EVEN INSPIRING THE WORLD’S DESIGNERS. COULD THE SOUTH-KOREAN CAPITAL BE THE LEADING EDGE OF FASHION? By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

“WHAT’S REALLY STARTING TO MATTER MOST HERE IS FLAMBOYANCE.” For Beaumi Lee, who teach-

es fashion sociology at the Kaywon University of Art and Design, the new generation of Seoulites is tailoring an original relationship to clothing, one free of hang-ups and how-tos. “The looks you see now are bolder than ever – unstructured cuts, mixed-and-matched materials that take inspiration from both K-pop and traditional outfits,” explains the professor. In the international press and the fashion world, Seoul’s ripple effect continues to expand outward. The capital is influencing clothing trends and the leading luxury labels have hung their shingles there. In autumn and spring, the South Korean Fashion Weeks are now popular with style-seekers. Will K-fashion (South Korean fashion) conquer the world? SOCIAL STATUS

“In South Korea, everything is new, everything is yet to be done,” says Youn Hee Park, designer for the Greedilous brand, who dreams up the label’s gaily-coloured clothing. “There’s no past to respect in the world of contemporary fashion, which means we can try anything and everything. And this absence of history means we’re more likely to absorb outside influences. We see, we imitate, then we appropriate the clothes that we like and create our own personal style.” After decades of economic struggle following the Korean War of 1950-1953, the nation’s people focused on rebuilding the country. “Under such difficult circumstances, fashion was essentially the last thing on our minds,” the stylist succinctly explains. “Until the 1990s, there were no dress codes to be followed. For a long time, we dressed identically, with the same haircuts.” The surprising emer-

gence of this interest in style, in a country long marked by a uniform culture, can also be explained by the importance of appearance in South Korean society. Appearance of attire, which has announced one’s social status for centuries, but physical appearance, as well, with the phenomenal rise in plastic surgery – South Korea is the global champion in going under the knife to change the body’s features.. INFLUENCES

One need only stand at an intersection and watch the crowd go by to see the inventive, colourful, daring, original, provocative or particularly well-turned looks being worn in this city. “Seoul is becoming a very dynamic, exciting place,” exclaims Yong Hwan Kim, a dapper young man we encountered in the Hongdae student district. “Everything’s changing, everything’s moving. The various cultures developing here are influencing one another. Each world opens doors to other worlds. It’s a state of non-stop regeneration.” On a steep street in the Itaewon district, Taiwanese salesperson Weishin Wang takes inspiration from the latest South Korean finds to stock her concept store in Taipei: “I get the impression that Seoul is constantly inventing its own style. People here have the courage to be themselves. They express surprising ideas”. Even though the uniform culture can still be seen, Seoul is asserting itself with greater flair every year. “The city makes this crazy creativity possible, because it’s both chaotic and extreme,” says professor Beaumi Lee. “And the new generation is making it increasingly clear that it wants to shake off restrictive norms. The boldness of the pioneers, people who have been making fashion news for the past decade, is becoming contagious.” n

GYU CHAN CHO, AGE 23

After outstanding success in his engineering studies, this sharp young dresser decided to work in a custom clothing shop in Gangnam. “Seoul is making up for lost time in the realm of fashion.”

SO HEE JUNG, AGE 20

“Seoul has a culture built around being beautiful.” So Hee Jung, age 20

During the week, she is a factory worker, but comes to the Hongdae district every Saturday to shop for second-hand clothes. “I want to create my own style.”

JUN A JUNG, AGE 35, AND SEJIN PARK, AGE 38

(top left) It is by coincidence that these two friends are similarly attired. “Seoulites pay more attention to the way they dress,” says Jun A, a florist.

YONG HWAN KIM, AGE 18

(bottom left) This young man is a fashion fanatic and sometimes does catwalk work in shows. “I look at photos of K-pop celebrities for inspiration.”

SIHYUN LEE, AGE 20

(top right) This literature student mines the internet for inspiration in creating her style. “South Korean fashion is being increasingly exported around the world, along with the broader aspects of our culture.”

LI AN KIM, AGE 19, AND JI HYE HUH, AGE 19

(bottom right) The two girls buy their clothes at the Dongdaemun market, long a key fashion hub in Seoul. “South Koreans have a sense of style.”

YANG KYO AN, AGE 22

“I’d rather dress based on my objectives in a given moment, rather than following a given fashion.” Yang Kyo An, age 22

This promising actor wears a traditional hanbok on this particular day. “I don’t have a very big wardrobe, but I do always try to be original.”

SIN SU A, AGE 21

This stylist, who doubles as a fitness model and social-network star with 100,000 Instagram followers (@sinsua1118), composes a scrupulous clothing selection that she resells on her site (A’us Apparel). “That’s what I did with this lace dress I bought in Dongdaenon.”

HYEONG BAE JEON, AKA BAE BAE, AGE 21

“South Koreans are often afraid to dress differently and stand out.” Hyeong Bae Jeon, aka Bae Bae, age 21

This art student likes to dress with eccentric flair. “When it comes to clothing, many South Koreans want to fit in with the masses. I can’t stand that.”

INSPIRED The ban sang

(“traditional setting”) by Mingoo Kang.

CHEFS to watch NEOCLASSIC A new take

on gujeolpan by Jungsik Yim.

The new

TASTE

WAVE

JUNGSIK YIM AND MINGOO KANG – TWO OF SEOUL’S SINGULAR CHEFS – ARE TURNING THE COUNTRY’S CULINARY CULTURE ON ITS HEAD. THEIR RESTAURANTS, JUNGSIK AND MINGLES, SERVE CONSUMMATELY CREATIVE KOREAN CUISINE STEEPED IN INTERNATIONAL INFLUENCE. By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

WE ARE AT THE GWANGJANG MARKET. THE MAIN ENTRANCE OF THIS LABYRINTHINE LAND-OF-A-THOUSANDSTALLS IS JUST BY THE GARLIC SELLERS. Once we enter, we

must walk past crates of quince. Then take a left, where the butchers, on their enormous blocks, are cutting up four-legged carcasses. After eight alley intersections, we turn right into the vegetable merchants’ hall, slalom between the bags holding roots that the untrained eye would (erroneously) take for ginseng, then plunge into a verdant sea as the lettuces and herbs take over. It is here, baseball cap pulled snugly down over his head, that Jungsik Yim is talking animatedly with Mingoo Kang about the seasonal produce they will be putting on the next day’s menus at their respective restaurants. Jungsik is seeking out the merchants selling rarer goods, and they are likely to join the ranks of his suppliers. Mingoo carries a large shopping bag, with long roots of salsify protruding from the top. The two chefs are in their element. But they are anonymous faces here, with nothing at all suggesting that they are the region’s greatest gastronomic genii. Their establishments are among the capital’s most famous eateries, with reputations that spread well beyond South Korean coasts. Together, each with his own sensitivity and singularity, they are propelling their country to the status of new connoisseur kingdom. They are tapping into the treasures of their terroir, adding contemporary colour to this culture of good taste, where soy and chili pepper are just a sprinkle away.

“The interest in South Korean cuisine is recent.”

THE SPARK

We meet again, now at the Jungsik dq restaurant in the upscale Gangnam district. The working-class, cacophonic atmosphere of the market is a dim memory. The sleek, streamlined building with an almost severe façade is home to the man who kick-started the modern movement in South Korean cuisine. Still sporting the baseball cap, he explains the unprecedented international craze his country has inspired. “The interest in our cuisine is recent. Ten years ago, no one outside this country even talked about it. It’s caught up in the hallyu momentum, the new cultural wave that we’re seeing in music and movies”. Cooking appeared by happenstance on the career path of the 40-year-old Seoulite. “I performed my military service at the age of 20. That’s when I started to get interested in this world. I replaced the cook, who was on holiday, and I’ve never left the kitchens since.” That was a turning point in his life, when his eyes were opened to this craft of passion. After working odd jobs in Seoul’s kitchens, Jungsik Yim learned the ropes of fine dining in New York. There, he honed his skills at a French gourmet restaurant. When he returned to South Korea in 2006, he opened his own restaurant with feverish ambition. Ten years later, Jungsik had earned three stars in the Michelin Guide, divided between his two establishments. Ironically, it was in the Big Apple that Jungsik’s first two stars were awarded for the restaurant bearing his name, which opened

Jungsik Yim

in 2011. He received his first “100% Seoul” star upon publication of the first Michelin Guide to the South Korean capital in December 2016. Jungsik enjoys breaking with tradition. The first dish placed upon the table is a “delicious gujeolpan” made up of eight compartments. “Everyone in Korea knows this dish, but it’s very rarely served in restaurants, because it’s designed for celebrations. It’s a king’s dish, but, to be honest with you, it has no taste at all! That’s why I add ‘delicious’ to the name here.” A rightfully assigned adjective, as the morsels of fish, embellished with sprouts (to add crunch), white kimchi (for the pungent flavour) and cubes of vegetable jelly (for texture) simply enchant the palate. His other signature dishes include an unexpected bibimbap, with aesthetics that deviate radically from traditional preparations. The rice is topped with strips of tuna. “I wanted a version that wasn’t overwhelmed by the chili, as is often the case. So I created this minimalist, chargrilled alternative. I can’t get enough of barbecue cooking, which is widespread here.” And that is Jungsik’s forte: preserving the DNA of ancient culinary traditions, in which health is of tremendous importance, while adding aromatic punch and bold interpretations that are, at times, lacking elsewhere. This taste revolution finds expression on a daily basis in South Koreans’ zeal for coffee. “I drink an iced Americano, black, no sugar, when I’m on break. It’s also the perfect drink when you get together with others to talk. My business meetings have become ‘coffee appointments’.” The chef is inspired by the brew’s sensory offering: “The smell and aromatic nuances are appealing at the end of the meal. But I haven’t yet really pursued using coffee as an ingredient.” The future of South Korean cuisine may soon take on a coffee colour. •••

SWEET Desserts break

GRILLED All the pleasure

the mould with astonishing forms and flavours.

of the bibimbap, reinvented.

LUMINOUS The Jungsik

dining room is on the upper floor.

TEXTURE This fish from

the snapper family is caught off Jeju Island.

FUTURE PAST The Mingles dining room blends traditional and contemporary décor.

TROMPE-L’ŒIL Korean ravioli or Italian mandu? BACKSTAGE The kitchen

staff is just like the chef: young and focused.

“JANG TRIO”, three

hallmarks of South Korean taste in a single dessert.

The 20 covers rapidly became too few to seat a clientele curious to taste his elegant dishes. “After working in the United States at Nobu and Momofuku, where fusion of Asia and the West reigns supreme, I thought I had to follow that same path for Korean cooking. But I changed my mind. I serve my customers my own personal vision, where the pepper is used in small, subtle touches, with lots of fresh herbs. I get closer to nature and the subtlety of the flavours found there. I want to capture the quintessence of our cuisine, step away from stereotypes that revolve around barbecue and kimchi, while not rebuffing anything. Fermentation is central to our culinary culture. That’s why I’m pursuing training in the cuisine of the Buddhist temples, where vegan cooking is king.” (See our article on page 64). Returning to the roots of the Land of the Morning Calm is a constant preoccupation for Mingoo: “During the Japanese colonisation era between 1910 and 1945, our identity was muzzled entirely. The Korean people were traumatised. Eating was not a source of pleasure, but an act of survival. Afterwards, the country evolved so quickly that the big western brands filled the vacuum, and it wasn’t until the late 1990s that a local gastronomic scene emerged. At that time, many well-off expatriate families returned to live in South Korea. The country lacked prestigious Korean restaurants – all the upscale restaurants were foreign. Today, I want to creatively reconnect with our foundations.” In his brand-new establishment, where the dining room glows warmly with wood, this talented chef dazzles his guests. The Michelin Guide confirmed it, awarding him a first star. Each dish is a wholly Korean expression of cuisine that takes inspiration from other lands. The Jerusalem-artichoke consommé is served with a mandu that claims kinship with Italian ravioli. The Korean beef is served raw, topped by a petite ball of caviar. Honouring the country’s table traditions, he serves the ban sang (“traditional setting” in Korean), a composition of banchans of the season. The entirely botanical selection is the fruit of his apprenticeship with the vegan nuns of the Buddhist temples. The jang trio is a sweet delight, where the three hallmarks of South Korean taste form a single, uncommon dessert: a doenjang (soybean paste) crème brûlée, ganjang (soy sauce) with pecans and gochujang (soy paste with chili) ice cream. Coffee provides the chef with a new creative medium: “I love this substance! I’m very careful about bean quality. Sometimes I use ground coffee in my dishes, and the cold-brewing technique as well.” What does Jungsik think about his young colleague? “I recruited Mingoo as an apprentice in my restaurant; today, he’s like a brother to me! I take on a lot of apprentices and I made him suffer, just like the others!” says the older chef with a half-smile. Then he adds, “We’ve always had an excellent relationship, one of great mutual admiration. He’s very gifted – I’m not worried about him in the least.” South Korean gastronomy is in good hands. n

“I want to capture the quintessence of our cuisine.” Mingoo Kang

PASSING THE TORCH

Jungsik’s role as the “big brother” of this young gastronomic scene is due mainly to the fact that several of his apprentices have followed in his footsteps. And the protégé that is blazing his own trail the most swiftly is Mingoo Kang. His restaurant, Mingles ds, is just half a kilometre from Jungsik’s, which is an infinitesimal distance for this sprawling city. The 34-year-old chef speaks of his star-spangled neighbour with immense respect: “Jungsik is the spark that lit the fuse, setting the torch alight. When I opened this place, he gave me a great deal of advice. I’ve had the good fortune of working with him often, preparing meals as a two-man team.” The thirty-something restaurateur also entered the trade by happenstance. “No one in my family has anything to do with the food trades. I come from a conventional family. My parents are employees and civil servants, and they feared I’d get stuck in a rut in this business. That’s a very Korean mentality in a super-competitive society.” Being a cook was not an easy trade for a demanding family to embrace. “Twenty years ago, this career was looked down upon. There isn’t even a Korean word for the profession of chef.” Mingoo’s parents did well to let their son express his creativity in the kitchen. His diploma in Culinary Arts, awarded by a prestigious Korean university, gave him the chance to learn the ropes in restaurants far from South Korea. The great western establishments opened his eyes to the infinite possibilities of the realm. In the United States, the Bahamas and then in Spain’s Basque Country with star chef Martín Berasategui, the young Korean discovered unfamiliar terroirs and ingredients. Back in Seoul, he donned an apron in Jungsik’s first establishment for a few months. Shortly thereafter, in 2014, he opened the first Mingles in a small basement room.

> You’ll find all the locations on our map in the back of the magazine.

Everywhere from middle-class households to gourmet restaurants, this metallic duo is a must.

CULT Object

Inseparable IN KOREA, A PAIR OF CHOPSTICKS AND A SPOON, BOTH ENTIRELY OF METAL, FORM A MEAL TOOLKIT UNLIKE ANY OTHER IN THE WORLD. THE FIRST CAN MANOEUVRE FOOD WITHOUT HASTE OR HARM, A TESTAMENT TO ONE’S RESPECT FOR THE MEAL AND THE MOMENT. THE SECOND CAN SCRATCH, SCRAPE AND SEARCH A DISH’S DEPTHS, DEMONSTRATING WELL-DEVELOPED GOURMANDISE. By Florian Lucas Photo Mickaël A. Bandassak

THE GRACEFUL LINES OF THIS SLENDER UTENSIL TRIO EXPRESS THE CULINARY ELEGANCE THAT IS KOREAN CUISINE. Chopsticks and spoons are on every table in

the country, from middle-class households to Seoul’s finest gourmet restaurants. An inseparable metal set which is handled throughout the meal, whether solo or in concert. At a meal, the moment guests are seated, they are swept up into a colourful, spicy galaxy whirling around banchans – traditional dishes – in the table’s centre. As decorum dictates, the elder guests pick up their chopsticks first. They can then seize a leaf from the emblematic kimchi, cabbage fermented with garlic and chilli, a lotus root (called yeongeun jorim) or some soybean shoots with hot-pepper sauce (kongnamul muchim). When the bibimbap arrives – the nation’s favoured dish meaning “mixed rice”, in which the grains cosy up to meat and vegetables – the dark stone holding it is still red-hot, extending the cooking time of this sizzling hodgepodge. Now the spoon comes into play. The round-headed utensil lets diners season all this with the red-pepper paste known as gochujang. The chopsticks then clutch the crispy marinated vegetables. With the dish soon finished, the spoon displays its final function: it scratches off the crispy rice that has become stuck to the now manageably warm container. And when a jjigae is served in the middle of the table,

this family-style soup welcomes all takers: everyone sticks in chopsticks or a spoon, depending on what catch is desired – a sign of remarkable, collaborative conviviality. Korean etiquette states that it is impolite to bring a bowl to one’s lips, hence the compulsory presence of the spoon. While chopsticks are characteristically used on the Asian continent, a reality explained by cultural as well as ethical factors (banishment of table knives by the vegetarian sage Confucius), the chopstick-spoon tandem is singularly Korean. It is only in the Land of the Morning Calm that this trio-duo is essentially obligatory; in the rest of Asia, the spoon has mainly an assistant’s role. This particularity makes this meal-time team one of the symbols of Korean culture. As for the nearly exclusive use of metal in crafting them (this, too, being a local novelty), theories abound. Some argue that the silver sticks were used by aristocrats to detect any poisons in their food, as that specific metal darkens upon contact with sulphur. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the use of silver cutlery became established among the nobility and then spread to the population as a whole, by way of mimicry, in less expensive metals. Others say it is because metal does not alter the taste of food and is not prone to bacterial development, unlike wood. n

FLY By night

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

Partying with

SEOUL

IT IS MULTIFARIOUS, LAVISH, EXCITING – SEOUL’S NIGHTLIFE IS A FEAST OF FUN, PULSING WITH THE POSITIVE ENERGY THAT ELECTRIFIES THIS CITY. HERE’S A SAMPLING. By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

“SEOUL NEVER SLEEPS,” YOONBI ASSURES US AS SHE PUSHES OPEN THE DOOR OF THE DISTRICT dd. It’s 10 p.m.

tional dining hall turned into a nightclub. They still serve food here,

DYNAMIC Joyful night creatures cavort in Seoul’s trendy neighbourhoods.

MAZE The streets of Itaewon,

lined with restaurants, nightclubs and bars.

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

and the club is already so crowded that we can barely squeeze our way through the sweaty bodies. We keep our eyes riveted on Yoonbi’s blue fur jacket as the young woman guides us upstairs to a lounge bar of woodwork and mirrors. “You could go out to a different place every night for a year, and you’d still be coming across new places,” says the night owl. “Most quarters have drinking, dining, dancing, pick-up joints – you could spend the whole night outside if you wanted to. There’s something for absolutely everyone. There are so many choices, they seem limitless.” Yoonbi, a student of Western literature by day, loves heeding the call of sequins and neon once the sun goes down. We are in Itaewon, on the right bank of the Han River, formerly a shady, red-light district that was home to prostitutes and G.I.’s assigned to the nearby American base. Now spruced up and glitzed up, the steep streets of this fashionable quarter boast a vast palette of restaurants, bars, pubs, shops and nightclubs. Students, employees, expatriates, tourists, American soldiers in search of a good time, men, women, straight, gay, lesbian, bi, trans – the creatures of the night find their cohorts of choice, or lose them, in the labyrinth of lanes until the wee hours. In the queue stretching away from the entrance of The Fountain df, a gigantic, multi-level, multi-ambiance club, two wild-eyed young men try to impress a nearby young woman by boasting they haven’t slept “for two nights and two days”. Inside, strobes, giant screens, lithe bodies, disjointed conversations and a moment of grace: two exquisite ladies dance atop one of the counters, smartphone in one hand, gin fizz in the other, smiling at the five or six hundred clubbers who are grooving to the same beat. One street down is Napocha dg, a tradi-

but a dance floor has been set up between the tables. An enormous picture window overlooks a portion of the city, where your eye momentarily gazes upon the lofty buildings, then marvels at the decadence of light drenching this futuristic décor. Yoonbi has taken off her blue fur and slinks with sensual abandon into the wild, carefree, heaving human hodgepodge. South Korea is in the midst of a hedonistic revolution. GOOD VIBRATIONS

“To make a request, you write the record you want to hear on a piece of paper and take it up to the DJ.” Dooseung, a dapper 40-something gentleman, teaches us about the subtleties of Korean rock at Gopchang Jeongol dh, a vinyl and soju bar in Hongdae. And soju is the starting point for South Korean nights out – the liqueur is downed in shots (see sidebar next page) as a beverage with the dishes that constitute the dinner, the bottles multiply on the table, the customers relax, talk loudly, laugh raucously. Once the meal is over, we order a poktanju (or “cocktail bomb”), a slapdash blend of beer and soju. The DJ puts on an old hit from Junghyun Shin, the Korean Jimi Hendrix, and the custom- •••

HEDONISM Customers

dance on the tables at the Ho Bar in Hongdae.

An entire year would not be enough to explore all the nightspots. VINTAGE The impressive

record collection at the Gopchang Jeongol bar.

THRONG The whole world flocks to Itaewon’s hottest nightspots.

The DJ puts on an old hit from Jung-hyun Shin, the Korean Jimi Hendrix. MUSIC AND BARBECUE

Napocha is the place to eat and dance to electro.

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

ers sing along at the top of their lungs. A woman staggers and falls, her companion helps her back up, two men are swearing vociferously at one another and, without warning, start a fistfight… until a colossus throws them out of the bar. Why do Koreans drink so much? “Drunkenness is part of our culture,” says Dooseung. “Inside, our hearts want to celebrate, but, at the same time, life is hard, society is competitive, we’re worried about the future. We drink to relax and let off steam.” Outside the bar, the two pugilists have ended their boxing match and are now chatting like old friends. “It’s time to move on to the second part of our evening,” suggests Dooseung. Hongdae, the student quarter, a bohemian, underground district, has an impressive number of night nooks. We could go to a “talking bar” or “room salon”, something like a hostess club where smiling young women will converse with us as we sit sipping whiskey. “Don’t get the wrong idea, it’s just about having a conversation,” says Dooseung, to clear up any ambiguity. But, in the one we visit, the atmosphere is lacklustre, though many clubs in the six or eight streets forming central Hongdae have a more exciting ambiance. It won’t be hard to pick them out from the jungle of brightly lit signs: in front of each is a line of young people waiting to demonstrate their talents as dancers or seducers. At the bar at the Green Light dj, Suzanne, a Korean-Canadian on holiday in Seoul, enthuses about the city’s energy: “I get nothing but good vibrations here. Perhaps it’s the same enthusiasm, the same power, the same creative madness that people felt in New York in the late 1960s?” •••

UNDERGROUND

The band Wedance performing at Strange Fruit.

CULTURE CLUB

Itaewon draws night owls of every genre.

DO YOU SPEAK THE LANGUAGE OF THE NIGHT? “GEONBAE!”

“Cheers! Bottoms up!” People in Seoul propose toasts and clink glasses a lot, especially with soju, the national drink, a rice, cereal or sweet potato liqueur that is generally 40-proof (20% alcohol). South Koreans are the world’s biggest spirits consumers, but the practice has its rules: you don’t drink alone, nor in front of your elders (you must turn your head away slightly).

partner to eat some ramen soup (noodles and broth): “Râmen meokgo gallaeyo? (“Would you like to share some râmen?”). “DAERI UNJEON”

Literally, “substitutive driving”. At the nightclub exits, drivers offer to take people home, in their own cars, if those clubbers have been drinking, and to do so for a reasonable fee. “SUKCHWI”

“HAPSEOK HALLAEYO?”

A friendly custom of sharing a table in bars or clubs. You ask, “Hapseok hallaeyo?” (“Can we sit at your table?”). “RÂMEN MEOKGO GALLAEYO?”

When it comes to chatting someone up, the latest fashion is inviting your

Late-night sorts will find a plethora of “next day” dishes to ease their sukchwi (hangover). You can order a haejangguk (beef broth with cabbage and vegetables) or a seolleongtang (beef bone soup). In summertime, you can even find grapefruit ice cream to mitigate the after-effects of inebriation.

FREEDOM RINGS

Night-time in Seoul also means karaoke, or noraebang, as they say in Korean. In fact, it’s almost unavoidable. We enter one of the upstairs rooms at The Soo dk with a group of six former high-school girlfriends who are enjoying a night out on the town together. A comfortable sofa, a few microphones, a big screen. These young women have clearly done this before: they take off their heels, grab the remote control and choose videos of K-pop numbers or other international hits. The moment they start to sing, they fill the room with their contagious energy, determined to make the most of this expressive outlet. For an hour, they sing and dance in unison, and the only thing that exists for them is this bubble of carefree collaboration. “I’m getting married in three months, I want to have a few more good times with my school friends,” confides Jie-hyeon, 22. Noraebang provides a unique platform for personal expression and freedom in the stiff Korean society, still governed by the hard, rigid edicts of Confucianism. As soon as their session ends, the six friends disappear. They live in the suburbs and they have to get up early tomorrow. We find ourselves with Dooseung again, the night owl from Strange Fruit dl, a concert venue decked with posters of Elvis Presley, Beatles, The Cure, and The Ramones. A punk band wraps up a wired, dyed-in-the-wool set, then we take a taxi to Itaewon to explore new underground clubs. The DJ at

COMMAND PERFORMANCE

Noraebang (karaoke) is a Korean nightlife must.

CONNECTION Seoul, a city that never sleeps.

PUBLIC BATHS

Most jjimjilbangs are open 24 hours a day.

MISTER In Itaewon,

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

food is served into the wee hours.

Clusters of scruffy partiers rub elbows with dynamic executives.

The Beton Brut fp plays well-chosen electronic music and bodies brush against one another in the darkness. We could spend all night in other dizzying, deafening places, each more surprising, enchanting, magnetic than the last. But it’s time for a break at the jjimjilbang, one of the public baths still popular in Seoul. Most of these establishments are open 24 hours a day and many partiers end their evenings here. In the buff, we enter the bathing area (separate sexes) and wash off the remnants of the night. Then we venture into the sauna, the warm bath, the hot bath, the cold bath. You can even sleep in the common room, on the floor or on a deckchair, in a humid, cosy, reassuring atmosphere. Some revellers will fall asleep there and wake up a few hours later, perhaps with a pounding headache that they will address by drinking an invigorating, fat-rich soup. Outside, the rosy-red sun of dawn renders the city more stunning than ever. In Gangnam, on the left bank of the Han River, clusters of scruffy partiers emerge from the neighbourhood’s swanky clubs, to rub elbows on the pavement with dynamic executives dressed to the nines, primed for their day at the office. Two worlds collide, smile, then forget they met in this, Asia’s most captivating capital. n

> You’ll find all the locations on our map in the back of the magazine.

INSPIRING Talent

RECYCLED RENAISSANCE THE FABRIKR DESIGNING DUO BREATHES NEW LIFE INTO USED OBJECTS AND OLD BUILDINGS. MEET SUNG-JO KIM AND DONG-KYU KIM, TWO INNOVATIVE CREATORS WHO HAVE RAISED RECYCLING TO AN ART FORM. By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

“DESIGN IS ULTIMATELY ABOUT SOLVING PROBLEMS. IT’S A WAY OF REINTERPRETING EVERYDAY OBJECTS and

TANDEM Sung-jo Kim

and Dong-kyu Kim.

reinventing our environment to make life simpler and more enjoyable.” Dong-kyu Kim and Sung-jo Kim, the designers at Fabrikr, are seated comfortably at Café Onion in east Seoul’s Seongsu-dong district. These concept catalysts revamped an old 1970s garage, transforming it into a chic and cosy establishment of unadorned concrete warmed by wood furniture or coated with sturdy epoxy resin. “The trend in recent decades has been to tear down the old to build the new,” explained Dong-kyu Kim, a bespectacled, hiply dressed 35-year-old. “Koreans weren’t accustomed to renovating buildings, and we wanted to put forth a new approach by reworking an existing structure.” Beside Dong-kyu is Sung-jo Kim, a moustached 34-year-old in relaxed, elegant attire, who continues: “We’re trying to work the notion of recycling or reusing into the Seoulite way of life, showing that things or places can have more than one form of expression. The Korean education system does not encourage imagination, and we want to introduce a broader way of thinking.” Beneath the well-mannered, polished exteriors of the Fabrikr designers lies innovative, even revolutionary, discourse. Though they have the same last name, they are not of the same family, yet they appear as inseparable and complementary •••

“CHEUM” A broken chair restored with epoxy resin and repainted (2012).

COOL COLLABORATION

Sung-jo Kim and Dong-kyu Kim.

as the yin and yang (um-yang in Korean) represented on their nation’s flag. Ever since their first joint project for their university degree in 2009 (an armchair made of scrap fabric fused with epoxy resin, Ed.), Dong-kyu and Sung-jo have unfailingly remained collaborators. Why such a bond? “The same desire to reinterpret the world,” they reply. “The ‘r’ at the end of ‘Fabrikr’ is a nod to the concept of reusing, renovating, reviving. We’re not really environmentalists, per se, but we like upcycling furniture and buildings. We like giving them a second life that has greater quality and value.” INSTANT CHEMISTRY

When they met at Sungkyunkwan University in Seoul, the two art students were the least-industrious scholars in their year. Sung-jo spent a significant amount of his time at the movies, in front of the TV, and soaking in the bathtub: “I didn’t have a very clear idea about my future,” he admits.

“Art and design are not two different things to us.” Dong-kyu Kim

“I saw myself becoming President of the Republic or a scientist.” Dongkyu, on the other hand, played football and walked in the mountains around Seoul, observing the flora and fauna: “I imagined opening a zoo.” In 2009, though, they experienced instant chemistry with their first collaboration, and these alter-egos began an exciting dialogue that is still going on eight years later. They spend nearly every day together, ceaselessly sniffing out ideas, leaping at every opportunity to explore new points of view. When Sung-jo married in 2015, the young man spent his honeymoon in Spain: “I took my wife to admire all the works by architect Antoni Gaudí in Barcelona, it was magnificent.” And in Berlin, Germany: “The mix of old and new is fascinating.” The fabriqueurs (thus Fabrikr, for “craftspersons” or “manufacturers”) find inspiration in daily routines, people they meet, films they see, exhibitions they visit. In 2011, the Gentle Monster brand ordered a line of sunglasses from them, and the spectacle manufac-

DETAIL The Geol:

Flow tabletop.

THE CAFÉ ONION in Seoul. Remodelled by the

duo, the former garage became a hip hangout.

“ GEOL: FLOW ” Table in wood,

steel and jeans fused with epoxy resin (2014).

turer so loved their work that it asked them to create two showrooms in Seoul. They restore wobbly armchairs, always using epoxy resin, patch up tables, resuscitate expired lamps. In 2013, Nespresso invited them to design something with used capsules, and the avant-garde pair covered a tree with 10,000 such capsules in a tip of the hat to the “Golden Period” of Austrian painter Gustav Klimt. They travel to China, the United States, Europe, Japan, all while taking notes for their current or future projects. “But we also compose in ways that respect Korean tradition,” says Sung-jo. “I mean, this culture is part of us, we express it unconsciously. And that’s undoubtedly reflected in the care we give our projects or the harmony they exude.” TRUSTING THEIR INSTINCTS

The two Kims could well be icons of the new Seoulite generation: freer, more flexible, better educated, better con-

nected to the world, more focused on pleasure-seeking. “We have the formula for extricating ourselves from the group culture that has long plagued Korean society,” comments Dong-kyu. Take, for example, what they did at the Café Onion, where we met this morning. “If we’d been working for a big company, we would never have had the freedom to restore the premises in this fashion,” the rabble-rousers emphatically explain. At interview’s end, we tour the café’s various rooms before soaking up some sunshine in the garden and on the rooftop terrace of the one-storey building. Leaning on the railing, we see life flowing by in this up-andcoming quarter reminiscent of New York’s Brooklyn in the 1980s. As Dong-kyu and Sung-jo talk, they comment on how they could make use of the vast terrace adjoining the Café Onion. They stay true to their instincts, seeing themselves more as inventors than designers. “Art and design are not two different things to us,” begins Dong-kyu. “Or at least our approach is more artistic than technical.” Sung-jo concludes with, “We should have started the interview with that, with design, which is art that can be used every day.” n

THE ORIGINS OF TASTE

CULINARY Heritage FAR REMOVED FROM THE URBAN CLAMOUR OF SEOUL, BUDDHIST PLACES OF WORSHIP CARRY ON AN ANCIENT TRADITION THROUGH TEMPLE CUISINE. NUNS PREPARE MEALS, IN WHICH PLANTS HAVE PRIDE OF PLACE, FOR BOTH THEIR COMMUNITY AND, TODAY, FOR VISITORS. THESE MENUS NOW INSPIRE THE WORLD’S LEADING CHEFS, EAGER TO EXPLORE THESE AGE-OLD RECIPES WITH THEIR OWN CREATIVE FLAIR. By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

LONGEVITY

Reconstruction of the Jinkwansa Temple, destroyed during the Korean War, began in 1963.

SEASONALITY The monks

grow the herbs and vegetables that compose their meals.

GAE HO, NUN AT THE JINKWANSA TEMPLE

LITTLE BY LITTLE, THE URBAN RUMBLINGS OF SEOUL YIELD TO THE RUSTLING OF THE LEAVES IN THE ANCIENT TREETOPS, CARESSED BY THE WIND. The South Korean cap-

ital is less than an hour’s drive away, but entering the grounds of Jinkwansa Temple fq feels like entering another world. Visitors pass through a majestic gate to come face-to-face with two stone tortoises – symbols of longevity and wisdom – and then with Gae Ho, who greets them with a broad smile, forearms crossed in the sleeves of her grey seungbok. It is in this peaceful environment, where the traditional structures trace the curves of Mount Samgaksan, that the nun lives, studies and meditates. It is also here that she exercises the ancient art of preparing the temple cuisine. “Growing and cooking ingredients is intrinsic to the spiritual education. By offering the Buddha healthy food and also sharing that food, one puts one’s values into practice, like the sharing of joy and pain,” explains the nun. “It is a cuisine of meditation, which makes it possible to reach a state in which body and mind are one.” Gae Ho and the 13 nuns currently living in the Jinkwansa Temple, one of the four main temples around Seoul, receive visitors – of all denominations – for several days so that they may take part in the Templestay programme.

Between sessions of meditation, prostration and walking meditation, the meal is the highlight for many South Koreans and foreigners, curious and eager to sample these vegan dishes, born of recipes and oral traditions that seem to have remained unchanged for 1,700 years, since Buddhism was adopted in Korea. Temple cuisine obeys strict rules. Meat and animal proteins are prohibited. Five vegetables, collectively categorised as osinchae, are prohibited: garlic, leek, chive, wild onion and onion. “Because once our palate becomes accustomed to their pungent flavour, it demands ever-spicier foods, which may arouse gluttony, excite the libido and release unpleasant odours,” explained the nun. To intensify the dishes’ flavour, the cooks use natural spices, such as kelp, mushrooms, wild sesame, soy powder and ginger. Being limited to only seasonal ingredients, the bonzes demonstrate tremendous ingenuity when it comes to preserving and consuming foods, using fermentation, drying, pickling in vinegar, marinating in soy sauce, and other methods that conserve nutrients and meet the nutritional needs of a vegan diet. Not to mention the therapeutic aspect of this fare, founded on plants boasting medicinal properties. “You can only develop a healthy mind in a healthy body,” adds Gae Ho. •••

“It is a cuisine of meditation, which makes it possible to reach a state in which body and mind are one.” Gae Ho

VOCATION

The nun Gae Ho has been interested in gastronomy since she was a teenager.

SPIRITUALITY

Today, Buddhists constitute 23% of the South Korean population.

“Food is the simplest way to share. That is the spirit of Buddhism.” Jeong Kwan

PURITY Tofu and sautéed julienned turnip.

LEGACY

Jeong Kwan teaches both at her temple and the University of Seoul.

KIMCHI is one of the nuns’

mainstay foods and comes in many forms: cabbage, turnip, aubergine, parsley, etc.

SACRED FIRE Jeong Kwan took her vows at the age of 17.

JEONG KWAN, NUN AT THE BAEKYANGSA TEMPLE

ON THIS SATURDAY MORNING, 12 STUDENTS – ALL SOUTH KOREAN, AGED BETWEEN 14 AND 60 – LISTEN ATTENTIVELY TO THE PROFESSOR. Jeong Kwan is preparing her disciples in

the first curriculum phase for the temple cuisine degree. On her countertop are turnips, cucumbers, shiitakes, sweet peppers, hot peppers, jujubes, dried seaweed and soybean paste, waiting to be cut, studied, prepared. The 60-year-old nun – radiating a near-youthful aura – teaches more than novices: the greatest local and international chefs travel to this South Korean wilderness, 300 kilometres from Seoul, to plumb the mysteries of this art. At the foot of the well-named Naejangsan mountain, which means “the mountain with many secrets”, Jeong Kwan passes this skill and knowledge on to others. “Since Korea’s earliest existence, the monks lived with the kings. They had their own system for serving the monarchs in their palaces. It was a very creative period for Korean gastronomy. Colonisation splintered this culture in the kitchens of the nobility. Only the temples were able to preserve the original spirit.” The recipes that venerate vegetables, respecting the seasons and the environment, now resonate anew in the present, returning like an echo of ancient times. “Agriculture changed so much in the 20th century that it altered popular cuisine. My compatriots became accustomed to overconsumption.

Their health deteriorated. The excessive food, their lifestyles, have ‘broken’ their spirits,” says the nun who took her vows and entered Baekyangsa fs at the age of 17, against her family’s wishes. “Colonisation, war, and then hastened modernisation obliterated the ancestral agricultural practices. Fortunately, the temples never stopped making their soy sauces and fermenting kimchi. Recently, Koreans have shown renewed interest in these practices,” the bonze wisely explains. Sharing and compassion are the principle forces in her life. “Food is the simplest way to share. That is the spirit of Buddhism: all human beings possess the seeds that allow them to blossom, like Buddha. These seeds are the ingredients used in our nourishment.” The words of the spiritual chef reach far beyond the walls of this place of prayer. Her story was covered in a documentary distributed worldwide, just like those of famous chefs Massimo Bottura (Osteria Francescana in Italy), Dan Barber (Blue Hill in the United States) and Alain Passard (L’Arpège in France). “The pleasure of taste is a conduit for universal emotions. I am proud to share them around the world and encourage these positive values. I am very happy to cook in Baekyangsa. I cannot imagine ever leaving the temple. And I invite all those who want to taste this cuisine to make the effort to come here. Here, in these mountains, is where the perfect conditions for this experience can be found,” pronounces Jeong Kwan. •••

“I was taught more than techniques or savoir-faire; I was taught a philosophy.” Ji Young Kim

TRADITION

Ji Young Kim in her chef’s attire.

JI YOUNG KIM, CHEF AT THE BALWOO GONGYANG RESTAURANT

NUNS ARE NOT THE ONLY EXPERTS IN TEMPLE CUISINE: JI YOUNG KIM IS THE CHEF AT THE BALWOO GONGYANG RESTAURANT fd in Seoul. The establish-

ment, housed at the Templestay Information Center, has a menu that is true to monastic tradition. The delicate dishes, served in pretty barus – Buddhist monk bowls –, enrapture the taste buds of the restaurant’s local and international clientele. “Seon Jae, one of the masters of this practice, taught me more than techniques or savoir-faire: I was taught a philosophy. This way of preparing vegan fare touched me deeply.” Her initial apprenticeship, however, was brief: “When I was 20, too young to grasp the subtleties of this art, I turned away from it. I was looking for a chef’s career that was more ‘fun’. By chance, at a slow-food festival in Italy, I again crossed paths with Seon Jae. Since then, I have embarked on this path and haven’t forsaken it.” Ji Young Kim’s hesitant steps reflect the suspicion with which today’s youth regard this culinary culture. No meat, no alcohol, no garlic or onion – it is difficult for her compatriots to accept this regime, those who love barbecue washed down with ample soju. “Many South Koreans think that the kimchi produced in temples – without green onions, garlic or fermented fish sauce – lacks flavour. On the contrary! It’s an exceptional food, with surprising freshness and a long finish on the palate,” enthuses Ji Young Kim. For her supplies, she can count on the nuns of the dozens of temples scattered across the country: “The tofu arrives by high-speed train from the Tongdosa Temple. And Jeong Kwan at the Baekyangsa Temple sends us jangajjis, marinated vegetables. Our ganjang (soy sauce) is produced in the restaurant from a 20-year-old base, prepared by my mentor, Seon Jae.” n

GOURMET From left to right, pine-mushroom broth and stuffed tofu skin, marinated lotus roots, root-vegetable crisps.

STEP BY STEP DOENJANG-CARAMELISED AUBERGINES

Cut an eggplant into slices seven centimetres long and one centimetre thick. Brown them lightly in a little sesame oil, turning often to avoid burning. Metal chopsticks are needed to appreciate the texture, which is not possible with larger wooden chopsticks.

Finely crush a mixture of salt and sesame seeds in a mortar. Mix one tablespoon fermented soy paste (doenjang) with one tablespoon glucose syrup to form a paste. Add a tablespoon of the crushed salt-sesame seed mixture.

SIMPLICITY Sticky rice

cooked in a lotus leaf, pine nuts and ginkgo nuts.

Spread a teaspoon of this paste onto each aubergine slice. Brown both sides of the aubergine slices in the pan until the paste becomes slightly caramelised. Arrange in a dish and serve hot.

NOW BOARDING at the First Class Café for take-off on a turbulence-free trip.

Enchanted MOMENTS TO RELAX, DAYDREAM OR SAVOUR SOME PRECIOUS PRIVACY, SEOULITES SEEK OUT THE OFFBEAT WORLDS OF THEMED CAFÉS. IN FACT, THE CAPITAL HAS SEVERAL HUNDREDS OF THEM, EACH MORE UNCONVENTIONAL THAN THE LAST. HERE’S A GUIDED TOUR. By Guillaume Jan Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

IT IS A DOLLHOUSE, TUCKED AWAY ON THE THIRD FLOOR OF AN UNREMARKABLE BUILDING a stone’s throw from

Ewha University. Flowered wallpaper, a princess mirror, a miniscule mezzanine, pedestals on which you place your cup of coffee or your smoothie. And, most importantly, a well-stocked dressing room, where customers can choose between, say, a Western wedding dress and a hanbok (traditional costume) for a few thousand won. An affordable price. Especially since, “in Korea, marriage is still a very important event, one that most women still dream of,” according to Yoonju Jung, who welcomes us with a broad smile. “Our customers love to take selfies wearing these outfits.” The Princess Diary ff Café,

which opened in 2010, is Seoul’s first “dress-up café” with this theme. A few older couples come in from time to time to replay their wedding, or at least to snap a picture. But the bulk of the clientele is composed of young ladies who somehow manage to talk their boyfriends into joining them here. A young couple, in fact, has just finished a photo session posing as a “western” husband and wife. They are 19 years old. “My girlfriend insisted we come,” says the young man. “We’re celebrating the 100th day of our relationship.” GOOD FORTUNE

Among the world’s capitals, with 17,000 coffee shops across the city, Seoul has one of the greatest densities of such establishments per square kilometre. And their number has been escalating for 15 years, with no slow-down in sight. There are specialised shops touting the best beans, takeaway on every street corner, traditional dabangs and themed cafés that present a wide variety of experiences: share a tender moment with

A TOUCH of whimsy STUDIO At the Cos Café, customers are photographed posing as manga heroines.

SELFIE At the Princess Diary, dress up as a bride for a selfportrait and refreshments.

cats, dogs or sheep; spend an afternoon solving a puzzle, assembling Legos or playing board games; have your fortune told. At the Cos Café fg, you can even don a costume while you try on a new personality: in a souvenir photo shoot, you can be a manga character or a superhero. Or slip into the shoes of a businessman flying to Sydney, New York or Hawaii. At the First Class Café fh, the waitresses – er, flight attendants – serve drinks in semi-private first-class cabins… on the ground. PRIVATE MOMENT

“Customers want a change of scenery, the chance to relax,” says Jihye Kim, who works at the First Class Café. “They want to take a break, ‘refresh their emotions’ in a quiet, comfortable space.” This quest for peace and privacy is understandable, given the high population density and close-quarters housing. One reason the dog and cat cafés are so successful is because many apartment buildings prohibit pets in small apartments. In

Customers want to “refresh their emotions” in a comfortable space. short, Seoulites go to these themed establishments not so much to drink coffee as to experience a special moment, something original, distracting, relaxing. In the Hongdae district, Better Comics fj specialises in manhwas, the Korean word for comics. There are thirteen comfortable “cells” in which you can stretch out serenely as you leisurely leaf through any of the thousands of tomes of comics at your disposal. “Our customers are generally between 15 and 30 years old,” says the manager. “Some come to read a manhwa, but we also see a lot of young couples who are looking for a private moment to cuddle together in one of our cocoons.” n

> You’ll find all the locations on our map in the back of the magazine.

SUCCESS Story

The

POP

craze WITH MELODIC EARWORMS, DAZZLING CHOREOGRAPHY AND MANUFACTURED IDOLS, KOREAN POP MUSIC – K-POP – HAS CONQUERED THE PLANET’S YOUNGER GENERATIONS. A BACKSTAGE LOOK AT THIS MUSICAL MANIA. By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

BIG SHOW Spotlights and dazzling dances at the Gocheok Sky Dome.

EAR-PIERCING SHRIEKS, THUNDERING APPLAUSE, COMPULSIVE COMMOTION, COLLECTIVE HYSTERIA. When the

five members of SHINee take the stage, the Gocheok Sky Dome stadium shakes and shudders with the enthusiasm of the 15,000 spectators who have come to the Super Seoul dream concert, a major stage show featuring K-pop, Korean pop. No fewer than 24 groups are in the line-up. The boy bands and girl bands, one after the other, put on their shows, all performing impressive choreography surrounded by an overabundance of gaudy lighting, and all lip-syncing, since the dances are what really count on the giant podium. In the audience, the average age cannot be more than 20: mostly teen and preteen girls, with a smattering of boys and even a few young adults. “K-pop is easy-to-listen-to music and the singers are cute,” says Hee, a big fan of most of the bands featured on this star-spangled night. This musical movement first appeared in the late Nineties and was exported to China and Japan before crossing cultures to win over adolescents around the rest of the world. The sure-fire, seductive recipe: light, catchy melodies, groups composed of young men or young women with impeccable looks and bios often embroidered or plumped to add interest, and pristine choreography, all performed in candy-coloured videos. “K-pop is a unique product in the history of Korean music,” observes Seongchae Ha, a

well-known DJ in Seoul. Record labels seized upon the phenomenon of Western boy bands and J-pop – Japanese pop –, which first came out in the 1990s, and ran headlong with the concept. They prep and churn out groups according to a nearly industrial formula, as though they were factory-made products. Most artists are programmed to be successful with the young audience from their first tune.” How did South Korea turn the passé models used by Western labels into winning formulas, forging one of the most popular musical genres on the planet? In 2012, the tube “Gangnam Style” by the singer Psy became the most-watched video on YouTube, now having racked up nearly three billion views. “SOFT POWER”

“K-pop’s success can be explained by a combination of factors,” asserts Benjamin Joinau, a French anthropologist who has lived in Seoul for more than twenty years and is a professor of social sciences at Hongik University. “In the late 1990s, South Korea was hit by the severe crisis that impacted all of Asia. When President Dae-jung Kim came to power in 1997, he relied on the ‘soft power’ of culture to jump-start his country’s failing economy. Simultaneously, the big names in the music industry were facing a free-fall in record sales, and they had to adapt to survive, so they decided to reach out to digital.”

“STAR AVENUE” in Seoul, dedicated to pop-culture stars.

FANS You sometimes must wait for hours for a glimpse of your idols.

Teenagers, who are gradually becoming the primary music consumers, have grown up with an image-focused culture their elders never truly experienced. With the explosion of the Internet and the meteoric rise of websites like YouTube, record companies are positioning themselves on the online market and using image as the publicity vehicle for their productions. To increase their on-screen appeal, the new stars resort to cosmetic surgery: they will unhesitatingly get a nose job or a new chin, have their eyes widened or breasts enlarged (with more than 16 operations per 1,000 inhabitants, South Korea holds the world’s per-capita record in cosmetic surgery). The dances are also designed with extreme precision, and the importance of visual impact actually supersedes the music. All the latest moves are incorporated, imitated, referenced, reinvented – from dance music to hip-hop, R&B to pop to electro. The numbers must be easy to remember, intentionally flirtatious, but never scandalous. “K-pop conveys gentle, universal values,” continues Joinau, “which is another reason it exports so well. The Confucianism still widespread in Korean culture is not provocative – it encourages order and respect, without challenging other cultures. This is even truer for South Korean movies and television series.” K-pop is part of a broader, more general cultural wave known as hallyu (see sidebar next page), which has been spreading globally for two decades. And it is part of the

WORSHIP BoA, one of the bestknown singers of the K-pop scene.

Groups are churned out following a nearly industrial formula. economic miracle that allowed South Korea, stuck between China, Russia and Japan, to skyrocket to the top of the list of the most advanced countries on the planet. INTENSIVE TRAINING

We are in the Gangnam district, in front of the glass building of SM Entertainment, the largest K-pop-producing record label. It is 6:00 p.m., and 200 fans are standing outside, despite the icy wind. “Chanyeol, one of the members of the group Exo, turns 24 today, and SM holds special events to celebrate their key artists’ birthdays,” explains Yi-sun, a graphic designer in Jeonju. It was five-hour drive for her to reach Seoul, and she took a day off from work to do so. The 23-year-old woman says she’s still just as much a K-pop fan as she was when she started listening “around the age of 7”. Yi-sun clutches her ticket that grants admission to the reception where the artist will be in view. But in the throng around her, many other •••

COLLECTIONS Spin-off products

are nothing if not successful.

teenagers never managed to obtain this precious passport, and they crowd against the security barriers in the hopes of seeing their beloved performers. Hyebin, 17, came secretly, without her parents’ knowledge: not because the flawless appearance of the group’s well-behaved bad boys worries them, “but because they’re afraid of distractions that could affect my schoolwork,” confides this high school girl. Inside the label headquarters is SM Town, a sales temple devoted to the house artists, with a large retail area where you can purchase artist merchandise of every ilk, along with a cafeteria and an auditorium for shows. SM Entertainment also offers guided tours to take fans into the worlds of their favourite singers: they learn some basic dance moves in the rehearsal studio, rummage through the dressing room where the stars are garbed, catch a glimpse of the recording studio and bat their eyelashes in the makeup room. “Here, you can even go through a fast-track, K-pop-star training programme” and “make a video in which you are the star,” suggests the guide. The cost of this three-day intensive training session: 10 million won, or 8,000 euros. GETTING REAL

“More and more young people want to become famous,” says Ji-yeon Kim, Director of the Hanlim Art School, which

The meteoric success of K-pop hardly ensures it will be a lasting phenomenon. has trained Korean show-business artists for a decade. “There’s no doubt that the social system is tough, with high unemployment and merciless competition. Some students identify with their idols to imagine a future more in keeping with their dreams. Of the professions kids yearn for the most, being a K-pop star tops the list. Our role here is to prepare the students, while also helping them grasp that they will have to work extremely hard to achieve success.” The institution, set south-east of Seoul, offers a traditional curriculum and courses in artistic expression – dance, theatre, music, fashion. Students are enrolled based on their skills and, above all, their creative potential. “We train them in all performance trades,” continues the director. “After a few months, some students come to understand that they would be better off pursuing something other than trying to stand in the limelight.” Which is all the more true because the meteoric success of K-pop

MANY TALENTS The Hanlim School specialises in the performing arts, training musicians, models, actors, and more.

REHEARSAL Hanlim School students perform

back-to-back choreographies like pros.

hardly ensures it will be a lasting phenomenon. “In recent years, we’ve noticed that the number of new bands keeps increasing,” notes Su Bin at the Super Seoul dream concert. “Even we fans have a hard time keeping up.” After demonstrating South Korea’s skill in perfecting and promoting ideas from elsewhere, after helping put the country more conspicuously on the world map, the success story of K-pop could soon run out of steam. In an attempt to pull in even larger audiences, the major labels introduce groups made up of several nationalities, but this trick doesn’t always pay off. “Demand remains high,” notes Benjamin Joinau, “but what are we exporting with K-pop? Cosmetically modified young girls, standardised songs? A lack of evolution may be the genre’s downfall.” The anthropologist has observed that neighbouring China is increasingly imitating the formulae of the South Korean entertainment industry, and he wonders if there will soon be a new wave of Chinese pop, C-pop. Still, he optimistically sees opportunities for Korean artists to evolve: “This could lead to record companies seeking greater authenticity as a way to have K-pop stand out from the Asian pop crowd. This could lead to higher-quality output that is more representative of Korea’s long and intricate musical history. And that wouldn’t be too surprising, since, as we mustn’t forget, Koreans are always raising the bar.” n

BIG HIT Psy, the singer of “Gangnam Style”.

HALLYU, THE KOREAN ENTERTAINMENT CULTURE By appropriating Western recipes and preparing them with Asian sauce, the entertainment industries have kicked off a worldwide craze for South Korean cultural products. Hallyu (or “Korean Wave”) mainly refers to TV series, movies and K-pop tunes, which have been massively exported since the mid-1990s, initially to China and Japan, and then to everywhere else. But the wave of popularity also extends to manhwas (comics), online games and reality shows. This consumption of South Korean pop culture now contributes nearly four billion dollars to the trade balance and propagates the image of a modern, glamorous and prosperous country.

SWEET HARMONIES WHEN IT’S TIME FOR A SWEET SNACK, TRADITIONAL WAFFLES, MACARONS AND OTHER CHEESECAKES GET A NEW TWIST FROM RED BEANS, PEANUTS AND GREEN TEA. AND WHEN THE LAND OF THE MORNING CALM AND NESPRESSO GRANDS CRUS JOIN FORCES IN FLAVOUR, THE CULINARY ADVENTURE TRULY BEGINS. By Audrey Cosson Photos Virginie Garnier

WHITE CHOCOLATE-DIPPED STRAWBERRIES & COSI SERVES FOUR PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes COOKING TIME: 5 minutes INGREDIENTS: 4 capsules of Cosi (4 x 40 ml)

- about 100 ml cold milk for frothing. For the recipe: 20 strawberries, washed and dried - 400 g white chocolate.

n Melt

the white chocolate in a doubleboiler. Dip each strawberry into the chocolate and place on a sheet of baking paper. Let cool before serving.

n Serve with an Espresso Macchiato made

with a Cosi Espresso (40 ml)

View Collection Espresso cup by Nespresso.

3 tsp. hot milk froth.

topped with

GOURMET Coffee

RED BEAN WAFFLES & ROMA SERVES FOUR PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes COOKING TIME: 15 minutes INGREDIENTS: 4 x three 30g ice cubes - 4 capsules of Roma (4 x 40 ml)

- 4 x 90 ml cold water. For the recipe: 200 g flour - 1 pinch salt - 7 g baking soda 10 g granulated sugar - 100 g milk - 160 g water - 400 g canned red beans, slightly drained.

In a bowl, mix the flour, salt, baking soda and sugar. Add the milk and water and mix. n Heat the mould over medium heat (we are using fish-shaped bungeoppangs). n Oil all surfaces inside the mould and fill it one-third with batter. Place 1 tbsp. of red beans in the centre, then completely cover with batter to finish filling mould. Close the mould and cook about 3 minutes over heat. Turn the mould over, cook another 3 minutes. Turn one last time, open, cook for 30 seconds. n Remove the waffles from the iron, enjoy hot. n Serve with an iced coffee made with a Roma Espresso (40 ml): place 90 g of ice cubes in the glass, pour the hot coffee directly on top, then add 90 ml cold water.

Bowl by Mud Australia.

Pure Collection Recipe Glasses by Nespresso.

SERVES FOUR PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes MOULDING TIME: Overnight INGREDIENTS: 4 capsules of

Ristretto Decaffeinato (4 x 40 ml). For the whipped cream: - 150 ml whole whipping or pouring cream - 1 vanilla bean. For the recipe: 8 g gelatine 200 g whole-wheat digestive biscuits 70 g small-flake (“quick”) oatmeal -

90 g melted butter - 300 ml whole pouring cream - 600 g cream cheese 10 g green tea powder - 100 g granulated sugar - 1 can Amarena cherries in syrup.

Soak the gelatine in cold water. Crumble the biscuits in a blender and mix them with the oatmeal and melted butter. Butter a removable, 18cm-diameter mould and line the bottom with baking paper. Pour the mixture into the mould, press down with fingers to compact it and smooth the surface. Refrigerate. n Heat 50 ml of pouring cream in a saucepan, remove from heat and add the drained gelatine. Whip the remaining cream (for the recipe) into whipped cream, adding the sugar as soon as cream begins to stiffen. In a large bowl, pour the cream cheese, gelatine-cream mixture, green tea, and whisk together. Gently fold in the whipped cream. n Place a layer of drained Amarena cherries in the mould, on top of the shortbread base, covering the base well. Pour the cream-cheese mixture onto the cherries, smoothing down well. Cover the mould with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight before unmoulding. Serve with the remaining cherries. n Whip the cream (for the whipped cream) with the vanilla bean seeds for the whipped cream topping. n n

n Serve with an Espresso-style Ristretto

Decaffeinato (40 ml) and top each cup with 1 tsp. vanilla whipped cream.

Cups by The Conran Shop; spoon by Merci.

GREEN TEA-CHERRY CHEESECAKE & RISTRETTO DECAFFEINATO

Glass and marble coasters by The Conran Shop.

MOUSSE CAKE & ARPEGGIO SERVES FOUR PREPARATION TIME: 40 minutes COOKING TIME: 10 minutes CHILLING TIME: Overnight + 1 hour INGREDIENTS: 4 x three 30g ice cubes

- 4 capsules of Arpeggio (4 x 40 ml) - 4 x 90 ml cold water. For the recipe: 2 g gelatine for the mousse + 4 g for the topping - 200 g white chocolate - 200 g whole pouring cream for the mousse + 70 g for the topping - 3 eggs - 90 g granulated sugar for the sponge cake + 100 g for the topping - 90 g flour - 2 capsules of Arpeggio (2 x 40 ml) - 30 g cocoa powder.

n Soak 2 g of gelatine in cold water. Melt the white chocolate in a doubleboiler and whip the cream to make whipped cream. Add the drained gelatine to the heated chocolate and mix. Fold in the whipped cream and pour the mixture into cylindrical moulds, stopping 1 to 2 cm from the rim. n reheat oven to 180° C (350° F, gas mark 4). In a bowl, whisk the eggs with the sugar until smooth. n Add the flour and mix. Pour the dough onto a cookie sheet covered with baking paper and bake for 10 minutes, then let cool. Carefully remove the sponge cake from the baking paper, cut out circles of the same diameter as the cylinders and

place them on the sponge cake. Place in the freezer overnight. n The next day, soak the rest of the gelatine sheets in cold water. Prepare the Arpeggio capsules into 40 ml servings, pour into a saucepan with the sugar and heat. As soon as it begins to boil, remove from heat, add cream, cocoa powder and drained gelatine while whisking constantly. n Unmould the cylinders, place them on a rack, pour the slightly cooled topping over them to cover them. Refrigerate one hour before serving. n Serve with an iced coffee made with an Arpeggio Espresso (40 ml) (see recipe on page 81).

84 RED-BEAN MACARONS & ROSABAYA DE COLOMBIA FOR 15 MACARONS/SERVES FOUR PREPARATION TIME: 25 minutes COOKING TIME: 15 minutes INGREDIENTS: 4 capsules of

Rosabaya de Colombia (4 x 40 ml) - 4 x 180 ml frothed milk. For the recipe: 60 g almond powder 110 g icing sugar - 60 g egg whites - 20 g granulated sugar – a dash of powdered brown food colouring - 100 g canned red beans.

Preheat the oven to 150° C (300° F, gas mark 2). Finely mix the almond powder and icing sugar. Pour the mixture into a sifter and sift over a n

cookie sheet covered with baking paper. Bake for 5 minutes, then let cool. This step makes it possible to later produce a meringue that rises correctly. n Whip the egg whites. As soon as they begin to stiffen, gradually add sugar, beating continuously. The mixture should be quite firm. Add the food colouring, sift the baked almond-sugar mixture onto the egg whites, then gently mix with a spatula into a smooth batter. n Pour the batter into a smooth piping pocket and form identically sized rounds on a cookie sheet covered with baking pa-

per. Let sit in a dry place for 30 minutes, then bake for 10 minutes. n When removing from oven, allow the shells to cool slightly before gently unsticking them from the sheet. Using a smooth piping pocket, place a small quantity of red bean paste inside half of the shells, then cover with the remaining half-shells to form the macarons. n Serve with a cold Macchiato Latte made with a Rosabaya de Colombia (40 ml). Prepare the cold frothed milk

and pour in the coffee.

Pure Collection Recipe Glass by Nespresso.

In a bowl, mix the yeast, water and milk. Let sit 15 minutes. n In a large bowl, mix the flours and sugar. Add the liquid mixture while mixing with a wooden spoon to form a dough. Flour the countertop and knead the dough for 10 minutes until it is smooth and elastic. If the dough is too dry, add a little water; if it is too sticky, add a little flour. Ball the dough and place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover and let sit for 45 minutes in a warm place. n Mix the brown sugar, cinnamon and peanuts in a bowl. Work the dough for 3 minutes. n Divide it into 8 parts and form each part into a ball. Flatten them to form disks, place 1 to 1.5 tbsp. of the topping in the centre of each disk, fold each disk over, then flatten into pancakes about 1 cm thick. n Heat the butter with a little oil in a frying pan over medium heat, brown the pancakes 1 to 2 minutes on each side. They should be golden and crispy. n Remove from pan, place on absorbent paper and serve hot. n Serve with n

CINNAMON-PEANUT (HOTTEOKS) MINI-PANCAKES & ENVIVO LUNGO

Cups by The Conran Shop.

SERVES FOUR PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 10 minutes RISING TIME: 45 minutes INGREDIENTS: 4 capsules of Envivo Lungo

(4 x 110 ml). For the recipe: 1 tsp. dry yeast - 150 ml warm water - 90 ml warm milk - 200 g flour - 50 g sweet rice flour - 1.5 tbsp. granulated sugar - 50 g brown sugar - 1 tbsp. cinnamon powder - 3 tbsp. coarsely chopped peanuts - vegetable oil - 10 g butter.

an Envivo Lungo (110 ml).

Taste frontiers A RANGE OF UNIQUE COFFEES

This range of coffees may not be available in your country.

Nespresso’s exper ts seek out coffee beans from uncommon terroirs to create Explorations Grands Crus.

THE NEW EXPLORATIONS COLLECTION HEADS FOR UNCHARTED HORIZONS IN THE ART OF TASTING WITH TWO EXHILARATING EDITIONS. EACH IS A DUET OF GRANDS CRUS WITH CONTRASTING PROFILES: LAOS BOLAVEN PLATEAU AND KENYA PEABERRY. AN EXCEPTIONAL DOUBLE ACT PAVING THE WAY FOR A COLLECTION OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS COFFEES, EACH TELLING ITS TRAVELLER’S TALES OF LITTLE-KNOWN LANDS AND NEW SENSATIONS. By Sophie Rivat

wice a year, those who truly savour exceptional coffees have a date to look forward to: the latest release from the Explorations collection. This initiatory invention nurtures contrast in the form of two Grands Crus with distinctly different aromatic profiles. The first twosome is an opportunity to experience the quintessence of cereal notes with the Laos Bolaven Plateau Grand Cru and the fruity notes of the Kenya Peaberry Grand Cru.

SENSORY ADVENTURE

To create Grands Crus worthy of this collection, Nespresso’s experts travelled across mountains and valleys, forests and steppes.

In a journey within a journey, rather than lingering over landscapes and monuments, our researchers spent time discovering rare coffee beans, all to share them with you in an exceptional sipping experience. With remarkable skill, they excavate rare coffee deposits, ensuring they meet their full potential their full potential. At adventure’s end is a cup that recounts the story of an exciting, exotic land.

COFFEE IMPRESSION COLLECTION

The allure of a velvety texture, the delight of such silky softness, the boldness of an aromatic composition – from one memorable story to the next, edition after edition, the Explorations collection assem-

bles an album of coffee impressions and souvenirs for savvy palates on a quest for new sensations. The collection gathers enlightened coffee consumers like an exclusive circle of initiates, adding to their worldly wisdom with each cup.

PRIVATE SHOWING

As needs must with rare coffee beans, Explorations Grands Crus are available in very limited quantities. Two editions are unveiled annually, one in spring, the other in autumn. More exclusive still, Club Members who have sampled this collection will have the chance to preview the exceptional coffees of the next. Ensuring that, in the future, not a single taste surprise ever passes them by.

ROASTING: SACRED SEPARATIONE To satisfy an enlightened coffee-drinker, nothing is more important than meticulous processing protocols. To hone the aromatic profiles of the Laos Bolaven Plateau and Kenya Peaberry Grands Crus, Nespresso experts used separate roasting techniques. By way of explanation, “traditional” roasting entails roasting the green coffee to bring out its aromatic profiles. Flawless application of time and temperature makes it possible to control the coffee’s caffeine content, bitterness and body. Separate roasting is more complex, involving discretely roasting batches of the same origin, so that they can develop their respective

characteristics. The blending – which also impacts the proportions of each roasted batch – is done after roasting. This technique, though simple in word, is complex in practice, but produces an incomparable result, because the roaster can finely control the in-cup result for each roasted portion. Gentler roasting refines fruity notes. Intense or dark roasting heightens intensity, character and structure. Rapid roasting draws out pure aromas, free of bitterness, while slower execution builds roundness. A degree of sophistication that can astound even the most seasoned taste buds.

KENYA PEABERRY Tinged with subtle fruity notes, this Grand Cru captures the Kenyan coffee’s gustatory grandeur.

LAOS BOLAVEN PLATEAU This round, well-balanced Grand Cru, with bright cereal notes and an understated herbaceous undertone, is simply unforgettable.

LAOS BOLAVEN PLATEAU HIDDEN TREASURE

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN

Laos. In 1920, a small French population introduced coffee crops to this country in Southeast Asia. Since then, very few producers have assessed the potential of this land’s terroir. Our Nespresso experts have tasted many samples over a number of years with with a view to to creating an exceptional Grand Cru.

THE TERROIR MAKES THE BEAN The pale, 100%-Arabica coffee bean expresses its fullest character when grown on the Bolaven Plateau. This elevated region is known for heavy rainfall, even in the dry season, a humid climate and volcanic soil, all of which give the coffee unique organoleptic qualities.

EXPERT EYE

When sampling green coffee from a farm near the town of Paksong, our experts discovered the potential of this bean. To bring out the finest cereal notes and minimise sharpness in flavour, they worked with the plantation to develop a picking system performed entirely by hand, ensuring only the ripest cherries are gathered.

AROMATIC PROFILE

This Espresso exudes the finest, brightest cereal notes, buoyed by an understated herbaceous nuance, with a delicate acidic touch. To obtain this ode to cereal aromas while eliminating bitterness, the coffee batches are manually sorted, for a round and balanced brew.

NESPRESSO EXPERTS SELECTED THE COFFEE OF A SINGLE PLANTATION, DEEP WITHIN LAOS’ BOLAVEN PLATEAU, AND REQUESTED ESPECIALLY THAT IT BE HAND-HARVESTED.

KENYA PEABERRY THE KING OF COFFEES COUNTRY OF ORIGIN

Kenya is known around the world for producing the “king of coffees” boasting fruity aromatic profiles. This land, stretched across the equator, combines a latitude and longitude resulting in a miraculous growth formula for its coffee trees: moisture, altitude and sunshine.

A VERY SPECIAL COFFEE BEAN

What makes the Peaberry bean so unique is that the fruit produces just a single seed, instead of two. This very special bean can appear in any coffee variety, naturally intensifying that variety’s aromatic richness. Shaped like a small, round pea, it lends itself to homogeneous roasting and, in the case of the Kenyan coffee, retention of fruity notes while reining in acidity.

A PEABERRY COFFEE BEAN IS HANDLED LIKE A PRECIOUS GEM TO REVEAL THE BRILLIANCE OF THE KENYAN COFFEE. EXPERT EYE

AROMATIC PROFILE

Kenya Peaberry is a complex Espresso with all the delicious brilliance of the Kenyan coffee. This Grand Cru concentrates notes of candied fruit, like apple, grape, blackberry and other berries. The delicate acidity and subtle fruity notes embody the elegance so characteristic of Kenyan coffees.

The challenge was to intensify the rich, fruity notes of the Kenyan Peaberry coffee, while mastering acidity. This was achieved through separate and supremely precise roasting: some of the beans underwent “medium” roasting to bring out the fruity facets; the remaining beans received only a light roasting to develop surprising aromatic complexity.

NESPRESSO Lifestyle

COFFEE ON ICE WHAT’S THE SECRET TO A PERFECT ICED COFFEE? TWO NEW GRANDS CRUS – INTENSO ON ICE AND LEGGERO ON ICE – SPECIALLY DESIGNED WITH CHARACTER THAT COMES TO THE LIFE WHEN SERVED OVER ICE. DELICIOUSLY REFRESHING. Photos Grégoire Kalt Stylist Juliette de Cadoudal By Sophie Rivat

SENSORY ALCHEMY When Leggero On Ice trickles down over ice cubes, the fruity notes of the smooth Grand Cru are delicately revealed. For an Intenso On Ice, the cubes’ chill intensifies the aromatic, roasted notes that are the hallmarks of the intense Grand Cru. Served in Pure Recipe Glasses from the Pure Collection.

A METICULOUS RECIPE, DEDICATED ACCESSORIES – NESPRESSO PRESENTS THE ART OF ICED COFFEE.

PRECISE PREPARATION Place 90 g of ice cubes in the glass, prepare a 40ml Grand Cru Leggero On Ice or Intenso On Ice (or, for those who love intensity, two capsules prepared as 25 ml). Dispense the coffee directly over the ice cubes. Add 90 ml water or cold milk froth. Prepare in a Pure Recipe Glass.

PERFECT PROPORTIONS The Nespresso ice cube tray, specially designed for three Iced Coffees. NUANCED REFRESHMENT The Nespresso recipe, original or milk-based: sip for a virtual trip to Mediterranean shores.

PRO GEAR An Aeroccino 4, a Pure Recipe Glass – everything you need to be a barista at home!

Pages 94-95: Atmosphere d’ailleurs coffee table, Fleux trays, Merci cups and carafe. Pepe Jeans shorts and top. Page 97: The Conran Shop bottle, BHV wooden spoons, Venessa Arizaga bracelet. Pages 98-99: La Botte Gardiane leather flip-flops, Hipanema bracelet, Truffaut plant, Esprit scarf.

REFRESHING STYLE AND FLAVOUR – A MOSAIC OF MEDITERRANEAN MOMENTS, ANY PLACE, ANY TIME.

PLEASURE TO GO The Touch Travel Mug, trimmed this summer in an azure geometric print, keeps your Iced Coffee cold during your warm-weather adventures.

NESPRESSO Design

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VIEW COLLECTION

THE CLEAR CHOICE

WHILE THE GAZE IS IRRESISTIBLY DRAWN TO THE CREMA, YOU INSTINCTIVELY SLIP YOUR FINGER THROUGH THE CUP’S HANDLE AS YOUR HAND WRAPS NATURALLY AROUND THIS NEW DESIGN. THE VIEW COLLECTION IS SIMPLE, YET SOPHISTICATED, BORN OF THE CREATIVE MINDS OF ATELIER OI TO REVEAL THE MAGIC OF THIS COFFEE MOMENT. By Sophie Rivat Photos Mr. Pink

As a prelude to your tasting experience, the View cup seeks first to entrance the eye. The glass serves as a stage in which the coffee and its silky crema are displayed. Made of steel – half-chromed, half-brushed – it artfully reflects light Reflection, refraction, diffusion: the visual wave endlessly evolves to enchant the senses. The cup and saucer maintain an almost hypnotic dialogue between glass and steel, transparency and opacity. The hand instinctively follows the gaze: a natural impulse leads it to grasp the cup’s smooth surface. The cup has a reassuring density, the thickness of the glass diffusing the coffee’s heat. Holding it is a sensory experience, the fingers resting sure and steady in the larger, looped handle. These emotions are experienced with the entire View Collection, an ensemble of five cups to discover between now and September 2017. The Swiss designers of atelier oi tell of the delightful slip twist cup and lip. How does the View cup play with the eye? We started with a classic that Nespresso wanted to reinterpret: the View cup, designed to showcase the coffee and crema. We took that notion and ran with it: we kept aspects of the original, like the conical shape, clear glass, and volumes

designed for various recipes or coffee serving sizes. Then we explored the materials and shapes from new, innovative perspectives, bringing to life an unprecedented experience based on two visual dimensions generated by the cup. First, the vessel’s neutral, transparent glass draws your eye into the depths of the coffee and crema for a clear, pure, real-life view of the coffee. Second is the handle, moulded from the same glass as the cup, which causes the material’s thickness to have a magnifying effect on the contents, revealing unexpected optical nuances to the eye. The new saucer design is equally astounding! It has two finishes: one part in chromed stainless steel, the other in matte brushed steel, serving as another nod to the visual contrast between the gleaming coffee and the satiny crema. An expression of the beauty of each, and both. How did you actually manage to manufacture these glasses? By pushing the boundaries of the materials! Manufacturing was a real challenge for two reasons. One, we had to preserve the glass thicknesses needed to stand up to the coffee’s heat. Two, we had to remain true to our original design and produce the visual effects we’d first envi-

Founded in 1991 by Aurel Aebi (centre), Armand Louis (left) and Patrick Reymond (right) , atelier oi is a transdisciplinary studio in La Neuveville, Switzerland.

sioned. And our efforts were rewarded: this bold aesthetic makes you feel as if you are holding a handcrafted object, and that’s very hard to achieve on an industrial scale. The handle design, which gives the new collection its true identity, was a determining element in both the manufacturing process and the overall cup design. n

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NESPRESSO Pro

EXCLUSIVE SELECTION

EXCELLENCE PAR EXCELLENCE

WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN EXCLUSIVE SELECTION AND YOU? Yannick Alléno: One of emotion. In haute gastronomie, customers are looking for an outstanding experience, service, ingredients. By creating Exclusive Selection, Nespresso brings the coffee moment at gourmet restaurants to this same level. The emotions triggered by these Grands Crus, Nepal Lamjung and Kilimanjaro Peaberry, create a desire to know more; their flavours invite conversation, just like wine. I hope that Nespresso will continue to take us to such exhilarating, lesser-known terroirs, so that we can share these unique moments, ones that we feel are so important, with our customers. Giuseppe Vaccarini: One of exploration. These two Grands Crus offer parallels to the terroir concept of the

most prestigious wines. Their level of exceptional aromatic subtlety is in line with what a gourmet customer expects and enjoys. Edwin Vinke: One of inspiration. The in-cup result is of great finesse. Tasting these Grands Crus in the Reveal glasses is a new ritual that holds its own with a gourmet gastronomic experience. Our customers love it! I appreciate the fact that these two Grands Crus are only available in celebrated fine dining establishments. A Michelin-starred restaurant has to offer wines and coffees that cannot be found elsewhere. HOW DOES NESPRESSO MEET THE NEEDS OF THE GASTRONOMIC WORLD? Yannick Alléno: Nespresso’s indisputable expertise has given rise to remarkable Grands Crus and simple techniques for perfectly extract-

Yannick Alléno Pavillon Ledoyen and Le 1947 - Cheval Blanc Courchevel, in France: these two establishments have three stars each in the Michelin Guide.

ing these creations. We use them both as ingredients and in pairings. Today, the brand satisfies our exacting needs by supplying dedicated and exclusive products. Giuseppe Vaccarini: Nespresso was a pioneer in connecting terroir and pure origin coffee. It has mastered roasting and blending in such a way that it adds a new dimension to the rituals of sommellerie. Sommeliers must develop a master’s knowledge of coffee, for their duties now include seeking, finding and serving exceptional coffees. Nespresso provides us with the support we need to expand our coffee culture – which we pass on to our customers – and to perfect our knowledge, including through coffee training sessions for the leading sommeliers. Edwin Vinke: A chef is constantly on the lookout for new flavours and new stimuli for culinary creativity. Two

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

NESPRESSO, SERVED IN MORE THAN 780 FINE DINING ESTABLISHMENTS AROUND THE WORLD, TAKES ITS DISCOURSE WITH HAUTE GASTRONOMIE FURTHER STILL BY OFFERING EXCLUSIVE SELECTION. THREE EMBLEMATIC PERSONALITIES FROM THIS PRESTIGIOUS REALM SHARE THEIR THOUGHTS ABOUT NEPAL LAMJUNG AND KILIMANJARO PEABERRY, THE FIRST COFFEE CREATIONS OF THIS NEW RANGE, ONE RESERVED FOR USE BY THE THE WORLD’S GREATEST CHEFS. By Sophie Rivat

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NEW PRESTIGIOUS RANGE Breaking news! Nespresso introduces Exclusive Selection, a new range of unique Grands Crus, reserved especially for the world’s greatest chefs. Produced from rare coffees grown on very small plantations, in soils with singular properties, the Grands Crus in this range are top-shelf creations indeed, as evidenced by the first two opuses: Nepal Lamjung, a rich, powerful, spicy creation, and Kilimanjaro Peaberry, with extraordinary fruitiness. What makes the Nepal Lamjung so exceptional is that it is cultivated in an Asian country where coffee does not usually grow, as Laos is outside the equatorial belt. The Kilimanjaro Peaberry, as the name implies, grows on the slopes of this emblematic African mountain. Two more superb reasons to treat yourself to a fine dining experience!

Giuseppe Vaccarini World’s Best Sommelier in 1978 and President of the Associazione della sommellerie professionale italiana.

years ago, at the Atelier Nespresso in Stockholm, I learned about the brand’s sincere and rigorous approach, a perfect balance of large-scale production and excellence. This p ositioned the Grands Crus as an additional source of inspiration. In my restaurant, I offer a tasting menu of some fifteen dishes, two of which include coffee as an ingredient. One is a savoury starter; the other is a sweet indulgence at meal’s end. WHAT PAIRINGS DO THESE GRAND CRUS INSPIRE FOR YOU? Yannick Alléno: I use Nepal Lamjung in the Bresse chicken with morels. This Grand Cru really knocks me over. The cardamom and vanilla notes, the coffee’s sweetness and depth, give the mushrooms astonishing persistence. When joined by sweated shallots and cream, the mo-

Edwin Vinke De Kromme Watergang, in the Netherlands, two stars in the Michelin Guide.

rels take on an earthy aroma, similar to a spring turnip. Giuseppe Vaccarini: I pair Nepal Lamjung with a 12-year- old Jamaican rum. This powerful, complex spirit brings out the coffee’s structure, gives it a mellow roundness, emphasising the sweet, supple character. The more delicate, light roast of Kilimanjaro Peaberry pairs well with desserts. I also recommend it with a natural, two-yearold Italian grappa. Being made from Chardonnay, the grappa’s bouquet echoes the coffee’s floral and fruity aromas. Edwin Vinke: To create the most refined ingredient pairings, I carefully study what grows and lives around the ingredients I like working with. That’s why I pair Kilimanjaro Peaberry with shrimp, pumpkin and green curry, ingredients used in East Africa.

EXCEPTIONAL GRANDS CRUS

NEPAL LAMJUNG

This coffee, with an intensity of 8, brings out the best in a rare, Himalayan-grown Bourbon bean. A portion of the coffee is given an intense roast, to enhance the character; the other is slow-roasted, to add roundness. The result is notes of bread, hazelnut and toasted cereals.

KILIMANJARO PEABERRY

This intensity-5 Grand Cru is an ode to the caracole, better known in English as Peaberry. What makes it unique is that the fruit produces only one seed (the coffee “bean”) instead of two. Part of the harvest is roasted quickly, bringing out pure aromas free of bitterness. A lower temperature is used on the remaining beans, heightening the fruity facet. Sweet, mild, exotic notes tinged with citrus, for a subtle coffee.

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RECYCLED ALUMINIUM

THE VIRTUOUS CIRCLE NESPRESSO, COMMITTED TO RECYCLING ITS CAPSULES FOR THE PAST 25 YEARS, CONTINUES TO MAKE USEFUL OBJECTS FROM REUSED ALUMINIUM. THE TARGET FOR 2020: PRODUCING CAPSULES USING EXCLUSIVELY RESPONSIBLE OR RECYCLED ALUMINIUM. A CLOSER LOOK AT A SUSTAINABLE AMBITION. By Sophie Rivat Illustration Christian Moreillon et Hem8tt

COLLECTING USED CAPSULES in Nespresso Boutiques, local partner pick-up points or city waste disposal.

SEPARATING THE COFFEE GROUNDS FROM THE METAL A used capsule contains 10% aluminium and 90% coffee grounds.

TRANSPORT TO THE PROCESSING CENTRE The capsule sorting and transport systems are supported by many local partners.

39 COUNTRIES recycle capsules. Some have collective recycling systems, but most rely on Nespresso’s dedicated systems.

86%

of Club Members have a collection point near their home.

ORK ING NETW D N A P X E A SWIFTLY

14,000 The number of Nespresso collection points.

Learn more about recycling in your country at www.nespresso.com/recycle-nespresso

COFFEE GROUNDS Seven countries process the recovered coffee to produce biogas. In Switzerland, this energy is used to heat homes surrounding the biogas plants. Moreover, 18 countries turn the recycled coffee grounds into compost. In Italy, Spain and Portugal, this compost is used in various productive ways, such as growing rice to be donated to food banks.

NESPRESSO Recycling

RECYCLING AT HOME Since the service was introduced in 2011, 16 countries offer Recycling at Home. When customers order their coffee, they simply state that they want to recycle their used capsules. They then receive a dedicated recycling bag. When they next place an order, they simply ask for the used capsules to be picked up upon order delivery.

YEARS OF RECYCLING

1991: Nespresso introduces the first capsule-recycling system in Switzerland. 2012: Collaboration with IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) and aluminium leaders to develop the Aluminium Stewardship Initiative (ASI). This revolutionary standard introduces greater sustainability and transparency across the aluminium industry. 2012: 76% of Club Members have a collection point near their home. By 2016, that number will rise to 86%. 2020: Nespresso has a twofold objective. First, to ensure 100% of Club Members have a collection point near their home. Second, to make all capsules with 100% responsible or recycled aluminium.

PROCESSING THE ALUMINIUM The melted capsules are used to manufacture new aluminium objects, which consume only 1/20 the energy required to do the same with non-recycled aluminium.

NESPRESSO MAKES RECYCLING EASY AND ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY. LET’S RECYCLE TOGETHER!

NESPRESSO SWITZERLAND CELEBRATES 25 YEARS OF RECYCLING WITH LIMITED EDITIONS OF LEGENDARY SWISS OBJECTS, ALL MADE WITH ALUMINIUM FROM ITS RECYCLING PROGRAMME.

EVERYDAY OBJECTS Resistant, light, waterproof - aluminium still has all its qualities even after being recycled! The material used to make Nespresso capsules finds a second life, being turned into bicycles, refrigerators, ski poles, and much more.

CAPSULE By producing 13 million capsules of Rosabaya de Colombia with recycled capsule aluminium, Nespresso demonstrates the feasibility of a virtuous circle in which used capsules are utilised to create new capsules, taking the first step in a long-held ambition. To celebrate the brand’s 25 years of recycling, 3.9 million of these capsules have been distributed in Switzerland.

KNIFE On the Pioneer Victorinox Swiss Army knife, born of a close collaboration between Victorinox and Nespresso, the scales of each blade bear a coating of 100% recycled capsule aluminium. It is a limited edition and available in some countries.

PEELER The Rex Zena peeler, an ergonomic icon and symbol of reliability with a design that has not changed since 1947, is now available in a new version crafted with recycled capsule aluminium. (Not available for sale.)

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