SO Nespresso #31 Glasgow - English edition by Les Digitalistes

Glasgow modern kilts • Highlands • renewable energies taste discoveries • coffeelands • urban ambassadors delicious recipes • musical world • sensory experience city guide inspiring personalities reveal their favourite places Louise and James Rusk, entrepreneurs

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editorial

Glasgow calling! Dear Readers, This city is a miracle. The red bricks catch the eye and warm the soul. The steep streets beckon you to savour a stroll. The lively, friendly pubs embrace you. The music follows you everywhere. Memories of those bleak years after the 1970s industrial crisis have dimmed. Glasgow has reinvented itself, awakening its artistic sensibility, unleashing its creativity and uncovering its extraordinary dynamic potential. It now gives its inhabitants, those proud Glaswegians, the opportunity to express their legendary humour, their warm hospitality, their open and ever-inquiring temperament. Today, the former working-class capital has planted its flag at the pinnacle of European culture and become a model of urban renewal. In these pages, you will discover the energy and enthusiasm of this endearing, little-known, down-to-earth city. Beyond its icons – kilts, bagpipes and whisky – Glasgow has many hidden treasures. There are passionate restaurateurs who take local gastronomy to soaring new heights, craftspeople determined to revive long-lost traditions and musicians joining forces to conquer the world. The terrible fire at the Glasgow School of Art, viewed across the globe as one of the world’s finest institutions, will not impede the city’s developmental pursuits. Naturally, the City Guide lists the favourite places of the Scottish ambassadors you will meet through the stories within. In this issue, you can also continue you around the world tour of savoir-faire from terroir to terroir. This 31st issue will take you to other fabled and fabulous lands, like those where the coffees of the new Master Origin range are produced. In Indonesia, Nicaragua, India, Ethiopia and other countries, women and men turn the elements to their advantage by crafting coffees with character. You can also learn the language of Parisian gourmandise with inspiring limited editions to help you celebrate the year as it slowly comes to a close. While sipping your favourite coffee, let Scotland’s scenery take your breath away. That journey begins right now.

May your reading and your coffee both offer you memorable moments, Jean-Marc Duvoisin Chief Executive Officer Nestlé Nespresso S.A.

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SO NESPRESSO is published by the Nestlé Nespresso S.A Group. Avenue de Rhodanie 40, 1007 Lausanne - Switzerland. Publication Director Jean-Marc Duvoisin. Executive Editor Lise Peneveyre. Concept/Production Les Digitalistes, 9 rue Emilio Castelar 75012 Paris, France. Tel.: +33 (0)1 43 44 55 20 contact@lesdigitalistes.com lesdigitalistes.com Editor-in-Chief Boris Coridian. Art Director Virginie Oudard. Coordinator Sophie Bouniot. Editorial Secretary Laurence Balan and Joël Métreau. Collaborators for this Issue Mickaël A. Bandassak, Eliane Cheung, Laurent Dupont, Sophie Dupuis-Gaulier, Enzo Furia, Virginie Garnier, Nadia Hamam-Marty, Guillaume Jan, Stéphane Remael, Florent Tanet; Translation TagLine. Photolitho Compos Juliot. Printer Mohn media Mohndruck Gmbh. Advertising MHD SA Chemin du Bugnon 1 / CP 32 1803 Chardonne - Switzerland. Customer Relationship Manager: Dominique Breschan. Tel.: + 41 (0) 79 818 27 55 dominique.breschan@mhdsa.ch

This magazine and City Guide are printed on paper that is certified:

© Copyright 2018 Nestlé Nespresso S.A. All rights reserved. Nespresso, the names of the various Nespresso coffee varieties and the Nespresso logos mentioned in SO NESPRESSO are trademarks of the Société des Produits Nestlé S.A. that may be registered in certain countries.

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Editorial

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The artisans of taste

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Heading for the Highlands

The five senses of Glasgow Designer, stylist, street artist: the insiders’ guide to the city’s best Glasgow: music mecca Sporran: a peek inside the Scottish kilt pouch Funky veggies! Eigg, an island brimming with good energy

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58 66

Coffee cuisine

The Parisian glossary of gourmandise

The new Nespresso boutique concept: a sensory experience

George Clooney, On a quest for the best

Cooking lesson: Salmon gravlaks with coffee and a Ristretto Decaffeinato

Coffee growers: traditional skills in different lands

five senses With its powerful acoustics blending a deep drone with sharper notes, the bagpipes have been part of Scottish culture since the 13th century. Used on the battlefield, they have long been considered a military asset. As recently as the Second World War, the army used them to galvanise troops during offensives.

Resonance

five senses

Character

Peaty, salty, smoky, or floral... There are more than one hundred kinds of Scotch whisky, and new distilleries are opening every year. Frank Murphy, owner of the Pot Still - a must-visit pub in Glasgow city centre - helps us to discover his tipples of choice. He tells us about history, people the land and landscapes, and geopolitics. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the perfect getaway to acquaint oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s self with this beautiful country.

five senses Since the mid-80s, the statue of the Duke of Wellington that stands in front of the Modern Art Gallery has (almost) always been topped with a traffic cone. Whenever council workers remove the cone, a drunken reveller is sure to replace it the following night. Having become attached to this little oddity that symbolises their sense of humour, the Glaswegians have made it a symbol of their city.

Snapshot

With more than 10,000km of coastline and several hundred islands, Scotland is a fisherman’s paradise. And its most ardent proponents swear that it’s where you can find the world’s best seafood. Opened in 1835, Rogano is the oldest restaurant in Glasgow, and has one of the best reputations in Scotland for its seafood, served in luxurious and 100% Art Déco setting.

Fresh

five senses In the caber toss, competitors strive to throw a huge tree trunk (between 5m and 6.5m long) so that it completes a full half-turn. An icon of local traditions, this national sport is one of the tests of strength that feature in the Highland Games, held between May and September.

Strength

Gaz Mac, street artist.

Louise and James Rusk, restaurant, design and lifestyle entrepreneurs.

People make Glasgow Conjurers with colour and fabrics, entrepreneurs with a nose for a deal, passionate about food, art and design, these worthy heirs of Glasgowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture blend the traditional and the avant-garde. Here they are. By Boris Coridian Photos MickaĂŤl A. Bandassak

trailblazers

Liam Hugues, whisky distiller.

Siobhan MacKenzie, stylist. Im nostiunti saped mo officid

Fiona Douglas, painter and designer.

Find their favourite spots in the City Guide.

trailblazers

The strokes of Fiona Douglas’ paintbrushes reveal the hues of spring

hrough the door to her shop on Hyndland Street, a neighbourhood in Glasgow’s West End, an explosion of colour awaits. This is where Fiona Douglas sells her fabrics, design objects, and rugs, which she brings to life in patterns. The abstract strokes of bright pink, deep purple, and romantic blue captivate visitors; the pastel flowers with blurred outlines sometimes seem truer than life. The Bluebellgray brand, which she launched when she was just 28, now exports this Scottish palette all over the world. It is a sublime act of defiance against Glasgow’s sooty image. “I definitely believe that each of us has our own colour palette, embodied by a season. I’m definitely a spring and summer person. I like bright, vibrant colours,” recounts the young woman with an expressive smile. Fiona Douglas’ destiny was always going to be colourful. “Several members of my family have artistic flair. I’ve always been immersed in it. And my grandfather had a beautiful garden, where he grew multi-coloured flowers. I’ve still got lasting visual memories of it and of the fragrances too. For me, every spring is like a rebirth,” the artist relates. And while her inspiration is taken from nature, the city was where she learned her craft. Fiona earned her degree at the prestigious Glasgow School of Art (whose historic building burned down for a second time this June while undergoing renovation work). The school of art was built by the Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the perfect icon for the city. “He did so much for Scottish art. Nature and flowers were a major source of inspiration in his work,” recounts Fiona. She also cites other sources: “Elizabeth Blackadder, a famous Scottish painter who brought flowers to life. And I spent hours and hours looking at the work on display in Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum”. In Glasgow, it’s artistic talent that’s blooming. _

trailblazers

“My grandfather had

a beautiful garden full of multi-coloured flowers”

Fiona’s palette is inspired by nature and the artist works exclusively with watercolours.

The illustrations in this book by Roald Dahl, painted by the Englishman Quentin Blake, were her inspiration.

On display in her shop, the collection from her own brand, Bluebellgray.

Find their favourite spots in the City Guide.

trailblazers

The carefully curated interplay between fabric, colour and light in the Spanish Butcher, say a lot about the ownersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; refined taste.

In the Rusk restaurants, Scottish beef is given pride of place.

Proponents of elegance, Louise and James Rusk breathe warmth and good taste into their restaurants 16

trailblazers

ospitality is second nature in Glasgow. And Louise and James Rusk are the perfect embodiments of this ability to extend a warm, enthusiastic welcome to visitors. The couple launched Rusk & Rusk, a catering, design and lifestyle company in April 2010. They own four restaurants, which both locals and the foreign press see as amongst the most elegant in Scotland. At The Spanish Butcher, Hutchesons City Grill, and The Butchershop Bar & Grill, grilled meat reigns supreme. But meat is not all. They also serve other gourmet gems, like seafood platters and an excellent selection of wines and spirits, all in a refined, convivial setting. “We started off with a steak house, quite simply because we love steak! Oysters, too. For us, it’s mainly a way for us to share the things we like,” James jokes. In early August the new addition to their empire, So LA, brings a little touch of California to the city. “Glasgow has always been a city with its own style. It was an obvious choice to make it the home for our business and our family,” James explains, sporting an outfit that blends local tweed and sunglasses with aplomb. The United Kingdom’s third city is still struggling to establish itself as a must-visit destination. Flashy Edinburgh on the East coast is still drawing the crowds with its Harry Potter architecture. And yet, there’s no feeling of resentment on the West coast: “We are lucky to have two big cities in the same region. They are so different that they complement each other. Visitors to Scotland can have two truly different city experiences. They’re like two sides of the same coin,” Louise tells us. “Even though Glasgow today is known for its energy, great buzz, and innovative spirit,” the entrepreneurial duo add with a sly smile. _

“It was an obvious

choice to make Glasgow the home for the business and our family”

Find their favourite spots in the City Guide.

The Butcher Shop Bar & Grill, the most casual establishment in the Rusk portfolio.

trailblazers

The street artist Gaz Mac brings the city’s walls to life and helps train fresh talent

On the rooftop of SWG3, you can make out Gaz Mac’s Feror aut quis aditatque nonet expera as ullescim tag on one of his paintings. ad ullecta turerferio voluptatum undae

eneath a leaden sky, a hundred or so street artists spray-paint the brick walls and panels built especially for the occasion. As the hours go by, superheroes, an alligator and a character from Trainspotting begin to take shape. This spring weekend, the second edition of the Yardworks festival is playing host to the very best international graffiti artists. And in the middle of this multicoloured labyrinth, one man is particularly happy. Gaz is the director of this hybrid space. SWG3 is simultaneously an art studio, an exhibition space, concert venue, TV studio and even a bar-restaurant. Located in Glasgow’s West End, SWG3 has been helping revive this long-neglected area since 2004. “Historically, it was a customs house. There was also a cooperage nearby where they made whisky barrels”, recounts the director, who is never seen without his baseball

Find their favourite spots in the City Guide.

trailblazers Gaz, in the heart of SWG3, a hybrid space bubbling with creativity.

“In 1990, Glasgow’s

reputation started to change”

Lots of different styles were on show at the Yardworks festival, in May 2018.

The Spanish duo PichiAvo, known worldwide, donated a monumental piece to the festival.

An ultra-realistic piece by the local artist, Smug.

cap. Today, Gaz is the godfather of Glasgow’s street art culture. And indeed, many of the city centre’s façades are adorned with murals. The city even lays on guided street art tours. “The city has changed so much. It has been through tough times, but since 1990 when it was named European Capital of Culture, its bad reputation has been transformed into being one of the country’s creative hubs,” Gaz explains. Now aged 50, the graffiti artist is still working his craft and his tag can still be seen on a few façades. “But today, my mission is mainly about helping young people to improve,” he adds. And Glasgow’s youth are determined to make the city an artistic destination. How would he define the local style? “We’ve developed a painting technique that’s tailored to our weather. We are without doubt the best at spray-painting in the rain!” _

trailblazers

With Siobhan Mackenzie tartan is moving with the times

“

ver since I was 10, I’ve always wanted to be a fashion designer. At 13, I got my first sewing machine. At 17, I left home to study fashion. At 21, once I graduated, I launched my own company”, Siobhan MacKenzie, now 25, tells us without a trace of false modesty. Her contemporary kilts can be found on the streets of the USA, Australia, and Japan. And the young woman has given her name to her brand. The embroidered stag, the brand’s logo, is a reminder that the Mackenzies are a Highland clan, from a place where the great deer are the monarchs of the glen. While the kilt is a national symbol, it’s also an item of clothing that can suit international consumers in the 21st century. Siobhan’s creations are a mix of styles, fabrics and eras. “I love contrasting fabrics and textures. I love working with velvet and leather, not just tartan.” Her kilts embody modern Scotland better than any other symbol, a Scotland that is proud of its heritage, but also innovative and open to the world. While her studio is located in the wilderness of the north, her garments are made near Glasgow. “Obviously it’s more expensive to make the kilts locally, with local fabrics. But I’m not really about fast fashion. I want to be able to tell my customers that my kilts are made in a way that respects the people who made them, treats them with dignity. I’m so proud to be able to highlight that they’re made in Scotland.” And she’d like to reassure those of us who weren’t lucky enough to be born by a loch. “You don’t need to belong to a clan to wear a kilt!” she jokes. What’s more, Mackenzies have got behind Siobhan’s work: “They support me as I grow, and are honoured that the name is travelling so far.” _

Siobhan’s truly unique kilts are exported all over the world.

Crazy about contrasts, the designer loves mixing fabrics and colours.

The embroidered stag, the brand’s logo, is a nod to the Mackenzie clan.

“You don’t need to belong to a clan to wear a kilt!” 21

Find their favourite spots in the City Guide.

A wizard of the still, Liam Hughes is hard at work to restore the prestige of urban whisky

These brand new stills are distilling the first single malt whisky to be made in Glasgow in 100 years.

Making the famous spirit begins with malted barley.

t’s hard to find your way around the industrial park, squeezed in between motorway slip roads and superstores. And yet, it is here that you can find the stills that are producing the first whisky to be made in Glasgow in over a century. In the land of Scotch, the country’s biggest city is at long last witnessing the rebirth of its favourite spirit. Liam is the Associate CEO in this venture and is there to meet us among the barrels, as intoxicating grain vapours fill the air. The man at the top isn’t Scottish, but Irish. “I came here from my small home town twenty years ago. I immediately fell in love with the big city. I’ve seen its streets and buildings be transformed. Its people too. The slogan ‘People make Glasgow’ is dead on. This city’s strength lies in its people. Since then I’ve got married and had kids. The city has an incredible energy and positive vibes,” Liam tells us. But the history of whisky in Glasgow has not been without its troubles.

Find their favourite spots in the City Guide.

Natal Alu Sofa, design Studio Segers

Living the good life outside. Love it, live it, share it. www.tribu.com

trailblazers

You need to wait for the clear spirit to develop its golden hues.

“1770 is the date

that the first local distillery was opened”

The spirit has to be aged for at least three years in oak barrels for it to be considered a whisky.

Liam has always worked in the industry, and offers us a history lesson: “In the early 19th century, Glasgow was the British Empire’s second city. It had a dynamic industry that generated a lot of wealth. In the mid-19th century, the area was home to almost 40 small distilleries. But from the 1850s, a struggling economy and wars destabilised the situation, and the distilleries began to close their doors. That went on until 1902, when the last independent distillery making single malts in Glasgow closed its doors.” The labels on the first bottles of whisky leaving his warehouse are marked with 1770. “That was the year the first local distillery opened. It was in another part of Glasgow, Dunsdashill, to the north of the city centre.” Liam and his team need to be patient. The spirit has to be aged for at least three years, first in oak bourbon barrels and then new oak barrels, for it to be considered a whisky. Will it have an 18th century flavour? Liam gives as good as he gets: “It will have the full Glasgow flavour!” _

Thanks to Liam and his staff, Scotland’s biggest city is at long last seeing the rebirth of its legendary spirit.

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land of talent

Style and substance Behind the wild beauty of the Highlands, men and women are carving out a gourmet culture that is as vibrant as it is anchored in its traditions. We met up with these culinary artisans who sell products that stand testament to outstanding technical prowess. By Boris Coridian Photos MickaĂŤl A. Bandassak

Caring for the habitat of the most famous of cows

With their ginger fringe, highland cows are as famous in Scotland as the Beatles are in Liverpool. And the finest herd in the UK lives on northern Mull. Tom Nelson is the happy owner of Glengorm Castle and from the windows of this imposing building, erected upon a rocky promontory, you can see the cattle grazing on the fields that stretch out to meet the sea. “These cows have adapted to the harsh climate. They don’t need a stable to protect them from the cold and wind. If they are so popular, it’s because they’re so peaceful and friendly,” Tom tells us. You need a 4x4 to explore the 2000 hectares of pasture where the cattle live almost free. While their meat is known to gourmets as one of the most flavoursome in the world, highland cows aren’t always popular with butchers, because its body type means that it isn’t considered a meat breed. “We slaughter 30-odd heads a year, which must be at least four years old. I like to think that the meat is eaten locally.” But what the farmer is most proud of are the ribbons won by his beauty queens. Awards and photos decorate the walls of his castle.

Icium queest Fumer l’aiglefin comme un Viking La ville d’Arbroath, sur la côte Est, est facile à repérer. La fumée qui s’échappe des nombreux ateliers indique que vous êtes arrivé à destination. The arbroath smokie est un aiglefin entier, un poisson fumé à chaud, qui se consomme directement sorti du fumoir ou dans de nombreuses recettes. Il faut poursuivre quelques kilomètres sur la côte avant de se retrouver sur la plage originelle de ce produit. Là, au pied du village d’Auchmithie, les ruines du port rappellent que l’activité fut, jadis, intense. Tout en creusant dans la terre le foyer de son fumoir traditionnel, Iain Spink raconte l’histoire de ce poisson culte : « C’est ici, sur cette plage, que tout a commencé. Deux théories s’opposent. La première raconte que ce sont les Vikings qui sont arrivés avec. La seconde, que l’incendie de la maison d’un pêcheur a – dramatiquement – fait naître ce savoir-faire. » Iain est le dernier à creuser un trou dans la terre, puis à utiliser un baril creux sans fond dans lequel les poissons passés au sel – deux par deux, accrochés par la queue – cuisent dans l’atmosphère humide et enfumée au bois de chêne. « Il a fallu réapprendre cette technique traditionnelle, car plus personne ne la pratiquait depuis 40 ans. »

Inventing island cheeses

The moulds wait patiently in the humid air of the ageing rooms. Two kinds of cheese – a cheddar and a parsley spread – are made on Brendan and Gareth’s farm. The two Reade brothers are carrying on the work of their parents, who moved to Mull in 1981. “When we first started, there was no cheese being made here. And only two farms were allowed to sell milk. And yet, with its tufty grass, the cows here make excellent milk, and therefore high-quality cheese,” Brendan relates. “We made cheese because the tourists only visit in the summer. We needed to find something to do with all the litres of milk we had collected over the winter.” The milk the Reades use comes from a cross between local breeds and brown Swiss. Today, 150 head of cattle mean that around 100 tonnes of cheese can be made every year, cheese that has found favour on some prestigious tables. Here, sustainable development is a priority. The farm’s electricity comes from wind turbines and a small hydroelectric dam. A surprising detail the boiler that heats the milk also provides hot water for the swimming pool, which adjoins the milking room!

Growing a secret garden You just have to open the door to this Garden of Eden to immediately feel the positive effects. “Inside, it’s 2-3°C warmer than outside,” explains the Scottish chef, Andrew Fairlie. The Victorian garden is surrounded by a thick stone wall that protects it from the wind. The rain, never a shortage up here, is still welcome. The beautiful greenhouses contain the shoots and seedlings. “This kind of garden is increasingly rare. It is the vestige of an era when well-to-do families had a large team of staff,” he adds. The celebrated chef – the only one in Scotland to have two Michelin stars – grows some of the produce served in his gourmet restaurant here, with help from his staff. The eponymous restaurant is located in the prestigious Gleneagles Hotel in Auchterarder. “Harvest season begins in May. And in July and August, 99% of the produce served in the restaurant comes from our secret garden,” the chef passionately reveals.

Icium queest

Icium queest Harvesting handfuls of seafood

Guy Grieve slips into his drysuit, taking on the airs of an astronaut. Without batting an eye, he dives into the clear, 8°C water off the northern coast of Mull, not far from the colourful village of Tobermory. Twenty or so minutes later he is back on the surface, his bag filled with still stirring scallops. The Pecten maximus, also known as king scallops, are harvested from the seabed by hand. It is a fishing technique that has no disadvantages and makes these jewels of the sea so treasured by the greatest chefs. “We only take the ones that are right, in terms of size and number. It isn’t a destructive method like stake-net fishing can be, which scrapes the seabed and can bring back anything,” the monolithic fisherman explains. Scottish waters, lapped by the Gulf Stream, provide the perfect conditions for these molluscs, popular throughout the UK, to grow. On every dive, with about three descents per day, the fisherman harvests around 100kg. “These bivalves are really good at hiding. But we’ve developed a kind of instinct for spotting them,” Guy jokes.

Haggis for the modern era

After the Loch Ness monster, haggis is another Scottish legend that surprises visitors. First there’s its unique shape, which makes you think of a strange-looking wineskin. Then there’s its unique recipe, which contains a sheep’s lungs, liver and heart, as well as onions, oats, sheep kidney fat, spices and salt. Plenty to scare away the faint hearted. While traditionally the mixture was placed within a real sheep’s stomach, it is now cooked in synthetic entrails. Jeanette Cutlack is a haggis specialist. In her home, which serves as a restaurant come evening (Ballygown), the young woman is passionately delving into the stuffed stomach. Customers come from far and wide to enjoy both the enchanting setting of her establishment on Mull, and for the rich flavour of her recipe. “I also like to serve it as an appetiser, accompanied by a fruit jelly, all on top of a cracker,” muses the chef who has been a haggis icon since 2013. Perhaps the recipe originally intended to avoid waste is now more modern than ever.

Getting the most from the area’s unique flavours

Scallops, lobsters, game. These Scottish products are amongst the best in the world, and young chefs have (at last!) decided to seize on this outstanding natural heritage to create flavoursome dishes. Chefs like Peter McKenna and Ivan Stein, who brighten up the Glasgow food scene with their restaurant, The Gannet. Their culinary techniques may be French, but the ingredients are all local. And it’s a gamble that was far from a sure bet: “When we started, five years ago, it was really hard to find local suppliers,” the two business partners explain. “The best produce was being exported to the biggest European restaurants, to the detriment of Scottish gastronomy. But in a few years, that all changed. So many quality restaurants have opened in Scotland!” You just need to walk around the neighbourhood to see they’re right. In Finnieston, restaurants are springing up like thistles on the heath. The Scottish revolution is already happening!

urban tempo

A city that sings day and night 36

Elephant Sessions, a Scottish folk-rock band, playing live at King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut.

Franz Ferdinand, Mogwai, Simple Minds… The international success of these rock bands, abundant concerts and a variety of musical genres, keep Glasgow’s heart beating in time. By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

tempo urbain

G “

lasgow artists all know each other, and musicians help each other out a lot.” On the terrace of King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, the iconic venue that put on Oasis’ first gig on 31 May 1993 (before the band earned worldwide success), Kerr Okan explains the strong ties that bind Scotland’s business capital and music. The city of 600,000 people has seen an impressive number of bands flourish: The Pastels, Wet Wet Wet, Teenage Fanclub, Belle and Sebastian, Franz Ferdinand, as well as The Lafontaines – of which Kerr Okan is a member – to name but a few. Raised on folk and hip-hop, the 29 year old drops hip-hop rhymes over rock guitar. “When we played our first gig in King Tut’s, almost exactly ten years ago now, nobody was doing this cross of genres. It’s a small city and connections are easy to make, between both people and genres. On the same street you’ll find an electro club, a rock concert venue, a bar playing folk, and another playing country or jazz...” As you walk around Glasgow, day or night, you’ll find guys and girls everywhere singing catchy tunes with amazing voices. Go to some gigs, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the notably enthusiastic crowd, and the complicity that is spontaneously established with the artists. “Bad music isn’t tolerated here, we’re definitely more discerning than elsewhere,” jokes Susan Kerr, who helps programme the gigs at King Tut’s. “How many bands are there in Glasgow and the local area? Several thousand. We organise 200 gigs a year with three or four bands a night, most of which are local.” And the crowds come. A UNESCO study found that two

Holy Moly & The Crackers, an off-the-wall folk outfit from Newcastle (in North East England), on stage at King Tut’s.

out of three Glaswegians attended a pop-rock concert in 2015. That same year, 450,000 international visitors came to listen to live music. Thanks to this hive of musical activity, in 2008 Glasgow was admitted to UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network. And it seems like Glasgow is a place where rock music was a late bloomer. In the 70s, groups like Simple Minds and Orange Juice threw themselves into the New Wave trend that followed the explosion of punk. “Back then, the city was hard, grey, and exhausted from the industrial crisis”, recalls Stephen Pastel, singer in The Pastels. Formed in 1981, the band oscillates between garage rock and pop ballads influenced by bands like Sonic Youth and Nirvana. Stephen Pastel, who always chose to stay living in Glasgow (today he is a record shop owner, as well as a musician), has witnessed the

city’s reawakening: “From the mid80s, the council worked to improve Glasgow’s image, and people here became more optimistic”. The facades of buildings blackened with soot were restored, factories rebuilt as housing, and artistic life took off. In the midst, record labels formed, like Chemikal Underground in 1994, which produced Mogwai and Arab Strap. “Listening to Glasgow’s music lets you understand its soul”, Stephen Pastel continues. “The melodies are melancholic, with lots of minor chords, but they are also driven by a powerful energy.” For Geoff Ellis, a confirmed hustler with a gravelly voice – and organiser of Glasgow’s biggest music festivals like T in the Park and TRNSMT, the local weather, often wet, offers something of an explanation: “You need to find a way to fill your days and that encourages creativity – It’s

urban tempo

The Glasgow Playlist Five tracks from the pop-rock heritage of this Scottish city: The best known. Take Me Out (2004), by Franz Ferdinand. The most poppy. Sleep the Clock Around (1998), by Belle and Sebastian. The most cinematic. Donuts (2018), by Mogwai. The most melancholic. Slow Summits (2013), by The Pastels. The most urban. Up (2018), by The LaFontaines.

Circuit des Yeux, an experimental folk group from Chicago, performing at Mono.

something that’s true of all genres, from classical music to hip-hop”. Long known for its guitar bands, Glasgow also saw its electro and techno scene take off in the 1990s. Daft Punk recorded their first LP, The New Wave, in Glasgow in 1993 under the Soma label, founded by two DJs. “Another duo is Optimo. Made up of Keith McIvor and Jonnie Wilkes, it got a second wind in 1997”, remarks Paul Shield, a regular customer in Rubadub, which has been a specialist new music store for more than 25 years. “Before them, the house and techno scene was more underground”. Today and back then music culture is an integral part of the city. They even say that Glasgow is becoming as innovative in electronic music as Detroit or Berlin. The city isn’t finished treating our ear drums, and the bands have a few encores left in them yet. _

Scots Aidan Moffat & RM Hubbert, at Saint Luke’s. The LaFontaines, the band in which Kerr Okan (second from left) sings, in Glasgow.

icon

What goes in a sporran? You’ll see one hanging from the belt of any man in a kilt. The pouch is known as a sporran, and is a timeless symbol. Here’s how to pull it off. By Enzo Furia Photos Stéphane Remael

MacGregor and MacDuff

Prince Charlie jacket, waistcoat, a kilt with a pouch called a sporran, long socks with a sgian dubh, a little knife, now ceremonial, that slips into the right sock and ghillies - polished shoes laced up above the ankles. This is the complete and official dress of the Highlands. “The traditional dress is still worn very often today because it is linked to a strong sense of national pride. On formal occasions, we wear it to stand out. Because of its sophisticated design and the kilt’s vibrant colours, you never go unnoticed. I’ve already worn a kilt at events abroad and people often ask me to pose for a photo”, smiles Paul Trainer, a thirty-something Scottish journalist and founder of the glasgowist.com website, which shines a spotlight on the wild happenings and personalities that make up the city. “People often ask me about the history behind my outfit, but it’s my sporran that piques the most curiosity”, he goes on. At MacGregor and MacDuff,

the famous kilt and Highland dress brand, the sporrans are “Made by hand in Scotland using tin and 100% genuine cow’s leather.” If they occupy a special place in every Highlander’s heart because they are closely bound to the national dress. “In Glasgow, we’re proud of our heritage and different cultures.” Paul shares this sentiment : “Wearing a sporran with a kilt is normal for the Scots, it’s part of our character.” The sporran, Gaelic for ‘bag’, was created to resolve the kilt’s lack of pockets. While it’s hard to accurately pin down when it first originated, we can certainly say that this accessory has been around since the earliest days of Scotland’s most famous garment. Mobile phones and car keys may have replaced knives and rations of oats, but the sporran’s purpose remains unchanged, it’s used to carry everyday belongings. Its design, on the other hand, has definitely evolved. It was a purely pragmatic item, made from leather or deerskin, until the end of the 16th century, before being decorated

with metal clasps and other touches and reaching its full exuberance in the first half of the 19th century. It then became a status symbol for the wearer, extravagance signifying wealth. It was given fur linings with animal head flaps, like the popular badger sporran. Some even hung below the knees. After 1850, the sporran saw a return to a more understated design, and since then its usage has been reserved for more formal events. The Glaswegians display their sporrans on the front of their kilts (which draws the eye), and it usually hangs from a chain. For formal occasions, the dress or semi-dress version is highly ornamental, and the everyday day sporran features a simpler design. But sporrans also stand out for their unique design features. A particular clan tartan, Celtic designs, hand-woven tweed – it reflects the personality and identity of its owner. In Glasgow, the symbols of the city are often engraved onto the decorative touches of local sporrans, and the city even has its own official tartan. Ask any Scot how to a man wear this accessory, and to a man they will reply: “With pride!” _

coffeetrip

Heading for the Highlands Upon leaving the city of Glasgow, travellers come face to face with a spectacular wonderland of wild countryside. At every stop along the journey, a welcoming coffee house offers them a place to contemplate their discoveries. Take the time to savour Scotland. By Guillaume Jan Photos StĂŠphane Remael Illustation Eliane Cheung

The Old Man of Storr, the best-known monolith on the Isle of Skye, towers 137 metres above mesmerising landscapes.

The charming Three Sisters Bake coffee house in the village of Killearn, some twenty kilometres from Glasgow.

Day 1: Our first stop

he narrow, picturesque road twists and turns through pastures bordered by low, grey stone walls while before us, the snowy peaks of Ben Lomond (974 metres) and Ben Arthur (884 metres) stand stately against the blue spring sky. Glasgow is not even ten minutes behind us and we are already overcome by Scotland’s natural beauty: grandiose, pitiless, wild, sublime. We were given ample warning before our departure: “On the map, the distances will appear to be short, but the countryside is so striking that it will take you three times longer than you expect to travel them.” And we don’t mind, as we’re not in a hurry. The maxim for this trip to the Highlands is ‘stop and savour’: take a break whenever the sumptuous scenery commands us to do so, be it on the edge of a loch, in the cradle of a valley, along a river or in a village. Along the way, we will find that there are cosy coffee houses (almost) everywhere, where we can sit, sip and let time pass by unimpeded.

is Three Sisters Bake in Killearn, about 25 kilometres north of Glasgow. This charmingly decorated establishment adjacent to the village chapel was, as the name suggests, founded by three sisters in 2014. “Rather than opening an ordinary roadside cafe, we wanted to make this place a destination in itself,” says Gillian Reith, the eldest of the sibling trio. “There are two things we’re very careful with,” says Nichola, the middle sister. “The quality of the food – which is local and made from scratch – and the open-mindedness we’ve developed through our world travels.” “All this in décor that has a feminine touch,” concludes Linsey, the youngest. The three Reith sisters – in skinny trousers with blue eyes and long hair – have managed to create an enchanting, hospitable sightseeing spot. On this day in May, the tables are occupied by hikers trekking the celebrated West Highland Way that passes nearby, cyclists from Glasgow and elderly folk from the village. As they gaze upon the splendid panorama before them, all seem to meditate on an unanswered question: What is this mysterious power held by Scottish nature – both perfect and utterly unexpected – that so astounds our senses? We continue to ruminate on that topic as we wind along the several kilometres separating us from Loch Lomond,

What is this mysterious power held by Scottish nature that so astounds our senses?

Between the ruggedly majestic mountains and the verdant, peaceful grasslands, Glencoe valley is one of the wildest and most celebrated dales of Scotland.

Moored at the southern tip of Loch Lomond, the Maid of the Loch is a 1950s paddle steamer converted into a floating cafĂŠ.

coffeetrip

the largest lake in Scotland and the United Kingdom. At its southern tip, in the village of Balloch, you can admire the lake’s wooded banks while enjoying a coffee aboard the Maid of the Loch, a 1950s paddle steamer converted into a floating café. We lean on the railing to admire the loch tapering northward through The Trossachs National Park. The further we penetrate the Highlands, the more we are enthralled by the magnificence of the banks. After Luss, with its wooden pier playing home to a few anglers impassively ensconced in the Scotch mist, we find a seat at the Artisan Café – wooden furniture, handcrafted décor, delicious dishes and coffee ground on site. “We do everything ourselves,” says Diane McLay, who established the business with her husband in 2015, in an old church still surrounded by meadows where sheep graze by the dozens. More than six million sheep are bred in Scotland, one million more than the country’s population. We continue our journey and further north, admire the grandiose scenery of the Glencoe valley.

Day 2: Further west, on the coast, with a light rain making the asphalt glisten, we pull up at our stop for the day near the port of Appin: the café at the Pierhouse Hotel in Portnacroish, offering a superb, unobstructed view of the island of Lismore. Locals sit at the counter sipping coffee or whisky, waiting for the weather to clear. They tell us about Castle Stalker, a 14th-century keep standing conspicuously on a rocky promontory surrounded by water, a typical sight along the Scottish coastline. “It’s in the 1975 movie Monty Python and the Holy Grail,” explains John, the barista. When the sun reappears less than an hour later, we continue our excursion into ever more ethereal landscapes. Shortly before Fort William, we reach Ben Nevis, the highest point in Scotland (1,345 metres). The breathtaking, icy waterfalls, rocky paths and peat bogs form an austere landscape of surprising sensuality. Each year, a hundred thousand people try to reach the summit which, though not particularly high, is nevertheless a very difficult climb. At Fort William, one can clamber aboard the ancient steam train that chugs to the port of Mallaig and Isle of Skye further north. This railway line – with viaducts straddling the mountains’ folds and stone bridges gallantly spanning the sea’s inlets – is justifiably, the most photographed in Scotland. Day 3: It is 8 a.m. Donald Lang is preparing his first coffee of the day. An Englishman by birth, he makes an annual rest-and-relaxation trip to Scotland in his aging Audi that manages to pull an astounding miniature camper. He parked his vehicle close to Armadale, with a view of the sea. “I like my solitude, but I enjoy meeting people,” says this engaging man in his fifties. And meeting people is easy to do here. We are on the southern end of the Isle of Skye, with its famously captivating panorama. Above a valley, as we watch the 46

morning sun flood this rocky land, we are joined by twelve Highland cows, with their unmistakable long, red fringe making them look like pop stars. These easygoing beasts are not intimidated by the motorhomes that stop to enjoy a lingering look at the surrounding splendour. The next day, at the foot of the Five Sisters of Kintail mountain range (more than 1,000 metres above sea level), along Loch Duich, the scenery again compels respect and admiration. “For people like us who come from a flat country, such precipitous terrain is overwhelming,” says a couple of Dutch tourists 30 kilometres further down the road, on the patio of the Redburn Café. The managers, Leanne and Richard Findley, assure us that there are roaming deer less than a 30-minute drive away. For now, we are headed to Loch Ness, Scotland’s most famous site. The lake’s monster, whose presence was first cited in the sixth century, continues to draw as many visitors as ever. “We meet people every day who still hope to catch a glimpse of Nessie,” laughs Liz, a waitress at Nourish Ness Community Coffee in Fort Augustus. Here at the tables of this friendly, down-to-earth cafe, while warming their insides with lattes or cappuccinos, tourists handwrite their postcards, keeping this fascinating legend alive across the planet. _ Hilly landscape at the foot of the imposing Ben Nevis, which rises to 1,345 metres.

itinĂŠraire Splendid scenery and ancient castles: on the west coast, near Appin, the 14th-century Castle Stalker offers a quintessential scene along the Scottish coastline.

Icy waterfalls, rocky paths and peat bogs form an austere landscape of surprising sensuality. Sipping his morning coffee, Donald Lang leans against his tiny camper. On vacation here, the Englishman never tires of contemplating Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural wonders.

bon appétit

Funky veggies! For many years, Glaswegian food has meant fried food. But young urbanites are biting back against this reputation by making vegetables a central part of their lifestyles, and Glasgow is now one of the world’s leading destinations for vegetarian restaurants. Here, we meet a generation who make sure they get their greens. By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

Manager of the V&V CafĂŠ, Jonny Little (see next page), gradually made the transition to veganism, without making life difficult.

bon appétit

“

n Glasgow today, if you’re vegetarian or vegan, you can be walking around any area of the city and find a spot for lunch”, Ashley Johnston whispers. Seated with a salad in Serenity Now, in Glasgow’s West End, the not-quite-thirty-something is a graphic designer for a craft beer magazine, and describes herself as “flexitarian”. This means she follows a diet made up of mainly plant-based products, but she does sometimes enjoy milk, eggs, and fish (see opposite). She is one of a new generation that is flourishing in Scotland’s biggest city – one that is urban, dynamic, connected to the world, aware of environmental issues, sensitive to animal welfare, health-conscious, and demanding when it comes to taste. In 2013, animal rights group PETA declared Glasgow the most veganfriendly city in the UK. Seen from abroad, this status might seem somewhat surprising: the city has for a long time been a byword for mediocre food, with the low lifeexpectancy and high levels of obesity that come with it. But in fact, this glowing report reveals a deeprooted movement. “The rise of veganism has been evident for two years, but its story began at least thirty years ago”, recounts Craig Tannock, 58, over a latte (almond milk, of course) in the colourful surroundings of Glad Café, a music bar on the south side of the Clyde. When he first came to Glasgow in the mid80s, this passionate musician and foodie already had a diet free from all animal products. “Back then, vegans had to live in a completely non-vegan world, and it wasn’t easy, he recalls. Glasgow’s first eatery for this lifestyle only opened in 1989”. Somewhere in the mix Craig, who runs a recording studio and organises concerts, started to serve animal protein-free fast food at the events he worked at. In 1994, he opened 13th note, a live entertainment venue that was 100% vegetarian. In 2002

he founded another venue, Mono, in Merchant City. On the menu – live music and dishes without a trace of animal protein, as part of a more refined cuisine. “I didn’t specifically mention the vegan side of things, people came for the atmosphere first and foremost.” A few years later in 2007, he helped open more bars in different parts of Glasgow (78, Stereo, Flying Duck), leading the way for more than a dozen new venues. “Now, being a vegan in Glasgow is no longer an idealist dream: It’s a real choice, a possibility”, he happily affirms. “And a lot of mainstream restaurants are making fully vegan dishes. Even steak houses!” Why is it so popular? “Firstly, Glasgow isn’t the only city where this is happening”, Craig Tannock is quick to clarify. The movement is growing all over the UK (the

country where vegetarianism was born in the 19th century and since 1944, home to the Vegan Society – the first in the world). And the trend can be seen all over Europe, the USA, and Australia. For him, young Scots now have better access to information, which makes them more determined in the choices they make. “Veganism is no longer seen as an extreme. It’s come to be accessible. Every supermarket now sells a wide range of plantbased milks, as well as loads more vegan products”. As she decorates the window at Rawnchy Desserts, the vegan bakery metro station she’s just opened near St George’s Cross metro station, Poppy Murricane (photo page 53) lists the reasons which, in her opinion, explain why vegetarianism and veganism are so big in Glasgow: “People here are open-minded. Compared to Edinburgh, for example, the culture here is more lively, more working class, and more eccentric. We are more willing to cultivate a little bit of madness, we aren’t scared to be different”. _

In photo on previous page

“I changed my diet slowly”, Jonny Little, manager of V&V Café: “I’ve been vegan since September 2017, after a trip to Australia. While there, I learned that a lot of problems could be avoided simply by having a healthier diet, by eating a wider range of fruit and vegetables. I also became aware of the environmental damage caused by industrial agriculture and how much animals suffer in this production model. I see this kind of farming as one of the most troubling problems of our time. I changed my diet slowly and gradually, without making my life difficult. And that’s a bit like the philosophy of V&V Café, where the initials stand for Vegetarian & Vegan.”

“Local, organic food” Gillian McIntyre, owner of The Cran: “I opened The Cran in January 2017. We mainly serve vegan dishes, but also locally produced organic products. For example, we still serve tea and coffee with cows’ milk. Me personally, I’m flexitarian. I prefer natural, local, and organic food, but I haven’t completely done away with animal products. A lot of people in Glasgow are aware of veganism, without necessarily becoming radicals.”

“My wife joined me in changing lifestyles” Nick Morrow, co-manager of Picnic: “Five years ago my dad had a stroke, and it made me think. I decided to adopt a healthier lifestyle and I paid more attention to my diet. I wanted to try veganism for a month. After ten days, I was convinced of its benefits and my wife joined me in the new lifestyle. We then realised that there weren’t many vegan restaurants serving light, appetising food. We thought, wrongly, that this kind of food is balanced by nature, but that’s not always the case. Some dishes which are oily, fatty, or fried, aren’t good for your body. That’s when we had the idea of opening our own place in late 2016. A lot of our customers aren’t actually vegan, or even vegetarian, but the movement is becoming more popular in Glasgow. There’s a market, both in terms of supply and demand. And property prices, which are still affordable, mean that small independent operators like ourselves can move into the city centre.”

Plant-based nuances Flexitarian. Limits the consumption of meat, without becoming vegetarian. Vegetarian. Doesn’t eat animal protein, or just fish (pescatarian). Vegan. Does not eat any animal-products, nor use animal-products for clothing, makeup, etc.

“This country has eaten poorly for a long time” David Campbell, manager of the Flying Duck: “I’m not 100% vegan. Let’s say that I’m still vegetarian, like many of the Flying Duck’s customers. Today it’s very easy to follow a meat-free diet in Glasgow, whether in food shops or restaurants. Even the big chains sell vegan meals, which would have been hard to imagine just five years ago. This demonstrates a desire to eat healthier, in a city that has eaten poorly for so long.”

“I can’t resist a nice bit of cheese” Eve Goulden, server at Stereo: “I’ve been trying to be vegan for two years, but sometimes I can’t resist a nice bit of cheese. I’m originally from Liverpool, in England. I’m a photography student and I work at Stereo to pay for my studies. The cuisine is inventive and varied, like in other vegan restaurants in Glasgow. There’s more choice here than in most of the big British cities.”

“I had food allergies” Rachel Sharp, manager of In Bloom: “In Bloom is primarily a nod to the song by Nirvana. I grew up listening to their music. At the same time, I like plants and nature and I wanted to express that in the name of the restaurant I opened in September 2017. We serve 100% plant-based food. When I was little I had food allergies that led me into a vegetarian diet and I became vegan five years ago.”

bon appétit

“Dairy-free cakes” Poppy Murricane, baker and founder of Rawnchy Desserts: “Over the past few years, the media and people I’ve met have made me aware of environmental issues. In parallel, I wanted to follow a healthy, more balanced diet. And that’s how I started removing meat and fish from my diet, Along with eggs and dairy products. But because I have a sweet tooth, I started trying to make cakes without any of these ingredients. Thanks to social media, my recipes became popular very quickly, and I was able to sell them in a few of Glasgow’s bakeries and cafes. Then I decided to create my brand, Rawnchy Desserts and open my own shop in spring 2018. A lot of vegans come and thank me – they say that being able to eat cake again has changed their lives!”

Find Poppy Murricane’s favourite spots in the City Guide.

green gold

An island brimming with good energy In the Hebrides Islands, 100 miles from Glasgow, the people living on the island of Eigg generate all the electricity they need themselves. The sun, wind, and water provide the resources they need for their independent and sustainable community to prosper. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an initiative that gives hope for a future that cares for the environment. By Guillaume Jan Photos StĂŠphane Remael

tempo urbain On the isle of Eigg, four wind turbines have been erected south of An SgĂšrr, an outcrop of cooled lava whose summit rises to 393m.

green gold

“

very time I turn on the lights, I know that I’m not creating any pollution or adding to global warming, that my energy use is neutral for the planet. It’s a delight to be using this source of energy.” With an open smile, flowery skirt, and light hair, Amanda Mowat Moult has just moved to the island with her husband and their two young children, where they live in a white house overlooking the sea. Originally from England, the family arrived on Eigg in February 2018. Just short of six miles long and at least an hour’s boat ride from the Scottish coast, the heart-shaped island is known as one of the most progressive Hebridean islands, ever since it installed its own electrical grid harnessing the power of renewable energy. It’s one of the island’s particularities that was such a strong draw for Amanda, as well as the wild beauty of the landscape and the possibility of growing most of her own food in the vegetable garden that surrounds her new cottage. When the independent grid started working round the clock on 1 February 2018, it was life-changing for the people who lived there (they numbered 64 then, and now they are 110). “It was winter, and night comes early in that season. It let us plan our days differently and to take advantage of more hours of light, which improved our quality of life”, recalls Maggie Fyffe, a resident on the island for 40 years. “I wasted no time buying a washing machine!” This year, Eigg became the world’s first community to become 100% selfsufficient in energy – and clean energy to boot. Noisy individual generators were replaced by four wind turbines, rows of solar panels, and a micro-dam built on one of the torrential streams that tumble down An Sgùrr, an imposing 393m shark-fin peak.

The jovial Eddie Scott is the man who makes sure these innovative installations stay up and running, and offered us a ride in his old Land Rover so that we could see them for ourselves. “Each wind turbine produces 6 kilowatt-hours, and the solar panels up to 50kWh on days when the sky’s clear”, he explains. “But most of our electricity is produced by the hydroelectric dam with its 100kWh capacity. It’s enough for our everyday energy needs, just don’t plug the kettle in at the same time as the washing machine!” The electricity is centralised, regulated, and stored in a cabin in the middle of Eigg, from where it is redistributed to each of the island’s 70 households. On average, up to 95% of the energy used is ‘green’. The rest comes from two back-up generators that pick up the slack when the river runs too low, or the wind is too gentle. “At first, we weren’t especially looking to produce clean energy”, Eddie Scott reveals. “Our priorities were efficiency and cost-effectiveness. And the fuel oil generator system was expensive. We only got five hours of electricity per day, and only if we were willing to keep a barrel that cost at least £120 (€136). Today, the network costs residents £30 (€34) per month for a constant energy supply.” Standing opposite the pier, the community centre contains a café-restaurant, a souvenir shop, and the island’s only grocery store. At the entrance, green and red lights show whether there is enough clean electricity or whether the generators need to be turned on. On this beautiful day in May, the light is green. Maggie Fyffe meets

us on the first floor, where the head office of Eigg Heritage Trust is found. The trust is an association formed by residents to manage administrative matters. Because another thing that makes Eigg unique is that they bought out the landowner, who never took care of his island hideaway. Since 1997, they have been making decisions as a collective, and developed their grid to enhance their sense of comfort and independence. “The facility cost £1.6m (€1.8m)”, Maggie Fyffe reports, as secretary of the trust. “A large part of it was financed through EU funding, along with contributions from private foundations.” Maggie is quick to point out that Eigg isn’t the only Hebridean island with a source of renewable energy. But it is the first to combine three kinds of clean energy – sun, wind, and water – to secure its independence. On the ground floor, Peggy Kirk, the island’s elder who doesn’t let her 90 years stop her from getting out and about, mans the till in the souvenir shop. She still remembers the restrictions and nuisances that came with individual generators, even on rainy or bitingly cold days, you needed to go out to turn them on, and again to turn them off, always taking care not to electrocute yourself. When the islanders bought the island, the grid was set up and the old lady saw the island flourish. The local community is tighter than ever, new families have moved in, abandoned crofts have been revived by young farmers, the size of the local primary school has tripled, and tourists are coming in greater numbers. She sums it up with a shy smile: “The electrical grid is our most beautiful revolution”. _

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1. The islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s low carbon footprint makes a good case for green tourism. 2. The solar panels generate more electricity during summer. 3. The population is growing with the arrival of new residents drawn by the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s green lifestyle. 4. Energy is stored in batteries before being redistributed to the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 70 homes.

coffee cuisine

Generous by nature Between land, sea, and lochs, Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flagship produce goes perfectly with a coffee. Prepare to be surprised. By Sophie Dupuis-Gaulier Photos Virginie Garnier

Caution: The featured recipes may contain different allergens. Should you have any allergy or intolerance, you are responsible for modifying the ingredients as necessary.

Espresso Cups, Touch collection (Nespresso).

Scallop carpaccio with coffee oil and Vanillio

Serves 4. Preparation time: 10 minutes. Marinating: 12 hours. For the beverage: 4 capsules of Vanillio extracted as Espresso (4 x 40ml). For the recipe: 12 big scallops, roe removed · Olive oil · A few sprigs of rocket · 1 capsule of Vanillio · Salt and pepper.

· Make a 40ml Vanillio the night before. Leave to cool and then mix with olive oil. Whisk to make an emulsion. Cover with plastic wrap and leave to macerate for 12 hours at room temperature · On the day: use a sharp knife to cut the scallops into thin strips. Place the strips on the serving plates as you go and drizzle with the coffee oil. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with a few leaves of rocket and enjoy immediately · Enjoy with a Vanillio (40 ml).

coffee cuisine

Aberdeen Angus tartare and Master Origin Ethiopia iced coffee

Serves 4. Preparation time: 20 minutes. For the beverage: 4 capsules of Master Origin Ethiopia (4 x 40 ml) · 4 x 90 g ice cubes · 4 x 90 ml of water. For the recipe: 400 g fillet of Aberdeen Angus · 1 shallot · 40 g of raw, shelled pistachios (or roasted, as you prefer) · 4 sprigs of parsley · 1 handful of rocket leaves · 4 tbsp. olive oil · Fleur de sel and freshly ground pepper.

Professional recipe glass, View collection(Nespresso).

· Peel and finely chop the shallot. Grind the pistachios. Wash and dry the rocket and parsley. Pluck the leaves off the parsley and finely chop, along with the rocket · Use a knife to cut the meat into small cubes · Mix the shallots, pistachios, parsley, rocket, and olive oil in a dish along with the meat. Season with salt and pepper. Divide the tartare between four plates and form into a neat round shape · Enjoy with an iced Master Origin Ethiopia coffee (40 ml). Place four ice cubes in a glass, pour in the coffee and then add 90 ml of cold water.

Caution: The featured recipes may contain different allergens. Should you have any allergy or intolerance, you are responsible for modifying the ingredients as necessary.

coffee cuisine

Fish and chips and Vivalto Lungo

Serves 4. Preparation time: 35 minutes. Cooking time: around 10 minutes. For the beverage: 4 capsules of Vivalto Lungo (4 x 110 ml). For the recipe: 320 g cod fillet · 75 g of flour (+ 4 tbsp.) · 1 egg · 120 ml lager beer · 4 large Bintje-style potatoes · 50 g of shelled peas · 200 ml fish stock · 100 g mayonnaise · 1 tsp. finely chopped tarragon · 1 tsp. finely chopped chervil · 1 tsp. finely chopped parsley · 1 tsp. chopped cornichons · 1 tsp. chopped capers · 1 litre oil for frying · Fleur de sel and freshly ground black pepper.

Lungo mug, View collection (Nespresso).

· Rinse the cod fillets in cold water. Dry the fillets and cut them into 4 cm chunks. Season with salt · Separate the oil into two pans. Heat one to 140°C. Wash and dry the potatoes, and cut into chips. Cook for 6 minutes then drain dry · Heat the oil up to 170°C. Cook the peas in the fish stock for 7 minutes. Drain and mash with fork. Season with salt and pepper. Set the peas to one side · Heat the second pan of oil to 180°C. Combine the herbs, cornichons, and capers with the mayonnaise. To make the batter, beat an egg and then add the flour. Mix well and then add the beer. Use the 4 tbsp of flour to dust the pieces of fish, and then dip them into the batter mix. Fry for 4 - 5 min in the 180°C oil · Cook the chips a second time (3 min) in the oil at 170°C · Drain the fish and chips and serve immediately with the mayonnaise and mushy peas · Enjoy with a Vivalto Lungo (110ml).

Caution: The featured recipes may contain different allergens. Should you have any allergy or intolerance, you are responsible for modifying the ingredients as necessary.

coffee cuisine

Peppermint cream and Volluto

Makes around 20 bites. Preparation time: 30 minutes. For the beverage: capsules of Volluto (40 ml). For the recipe: 200 g icing sugar · 1 squeeze of lemon juice · 20 g egg whites · 100 g dark chocolate · ½ tsp. mint extract (change to suit your taste and strength of extract).

· With a whisk, lightly beat the egg white. Add the lemon juice and whisk again. Sieve and incorporate the icing sugar, along with the mint extract. Mix with a wooden spatula and then by hand, until the paste is an even thickness. Make into little balls (around 10g each), and flatten slightly. Arrange one by one on greaseproof paper, which you have covered with a very fine layer of icing sugar · Melt the chocolate in the microwave or in a bain marie · Dip one half of the peppermint creams in the chocolate, and place them on a cooling rack. Leave to cool · Enjoy with a Volluto (40 ml).

Espresso Glasses, Origin collection (Nespresso).

Caution: The featured recipes may contain different allergens. Should you have any allergy or intolerance, you are responsible for modifying the ingredients as necessary.

coffee cuisine

Cranachan with whipped cream and Master Origin Colombia

Alcohol can damage your health. Please drink responsibly.

Serves 4. Preparation time: 25 minutes. Refrigeration: 12 hours. Cooking time: 12 minutes. For the beverage: 4 capsules of Master Origin Colombia (4 x 40 ml). For the recipe: 100 g of oats · 100 ml Scotch whisky · 120 g raspberry coulis (+ 12 raspberries for garnish) · 4 tbsp. honey · 1 capsule of Master Origin Colombia · 120 ml double cream · 2 tsp. icing sugar.

· The night before: make a 40 ml cup of Master Origin Colombia. Leave to cool and then pour into the double cream. Mix well. Refrigerate for 12 hours · On the day: pre-heat oven to 150°C. Combine the oats and whisky. Spread out on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper, and cook in the oven for 10-12 minutes to roast the oats · Meanwhile, blend the raspberries. Sieve the resulting juice to remove all seeds · Use an electric whisk to beat the coffee cream. Once it has doubled in volume, incorporate the icing sugar and continue whisking for a short while · Place the oats into the bottom of the four verrines, add the honey and raspberry coulis, and pour coffee cream on top · Garnish with a few raspberries and serve immediately · Enjoy with a Master Origin Colombia (40 ml).

Caution: The featured recipes may contain different allergens. Should you have any allergy or intolerance, you are responsible for modifying the ingredients as necessary.

coffee cuisine

Millionaire Shortbread and Master Origin India macchiato

· Prepare the shortbread: pre-heat oven to 180°C (gas mark 6). Use a mixer to combine the butter and sugar, add the flour and the salt and continue mixing until you get an even mixture · Grease a 20cm x 20cm baking tray with butter, and spread out the shortbread mix. Bake in the oven for 20-22 minutes. Remove shortbread from oven and leave to cool · Meanwhile, make the caramel: chop the butter into small cubes. Melt the butter in a pan with sugar. Add the condensed milk and mix constantly for 10 minutes with a wooden spoon. Pour the caramel over the cooled shortbread and spread evenly with a spatula. Leave to set · Make the chocolate topping: break up the chocolate into chunks and chop the butter into small pieces. Melt the chocolate and butter in a bain marie and pour the mixture over the caramel. Spread evenly with a small spatula. Leave to set in cool place for 4 hours · Cut the shortbread into 16 small rectangles · Enjoy with a Master Origin India macchiato (40 ml) topped with 3 teaspoons of frothed hot milk.

Espresso glasses, View collection (Nespresso).

crédit photo

Makes 16 biscuits. Preparation time: 30 minutes. Cooking time: 35 minutes. For the beverage: capsules of Master Origin India (40 ml) – 100 ml cold milk for froth. For the shortbread: 165 g of butter, at room temperature (+ extra for dish) · 90 g sugar · 300 g plain flour · 3 pinches of salt. For the caramel: 150 g salted butter · 50 g brown sugar · 200 g sweetened condensed milk. For chocolate topping: 150 g dark chocolate · 30 g butter.

crĂŠdit photo

Caution: The featured recipes may contain different allergens. Should you have any allergy or intolerance, you are responsible for modifying the ingredients as necessary.

idiosyncratic process used

Flavour rains in Indonesia On the island of Sumatra, making the most of a naturally damp climate, coffee growers have developed a unique drying process. Country-specific techniques are also used in India, Nicaragua, Ethiopia and Colombia, each method further honed by the expertise of Nespresso. The growersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skills and respect for their unique environments is what makes the new Master Origin range possible. Story by Antoine Richard and Jean Berthelot de la GlĂŠtais Photos Gwenn Dubourthoumieu

idiosyncratic process used

n this autumn morning, the lush flora of north-western Sumatra is completely enveloped by the moist, heavy air. The dew drips off the branches of the coffee trees, barely dried by the rays of the rising sun piercing the clouds over Lake Laut Tawar in Takengon. When the skies open again, as they will, precipitation will continue its reign. For here, the liquid element is king. At 1,400 metres above sea level, Indonesiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Aceh province is a region renowned for producing coffee beans with a remarkable, milky, greenish-turquoise colour. Nature provides the perfect conditions for growing these jade-like nuggets, but it is the men and women who are responsible for the actual processing magic, applying the savoir-faire that brings out the beansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; singular characteristics. Each day, the producers face, and make the most of, the fickle tropical weather. In the traditional production chain, the wet-hulling stage (giling basah in Indonesian)

is an example of the human ingenuity needed to work with, rather than against, the environment. In these dense, dripping mountains, this process is what gives Master Origin Indonesia its rich, complex, unmistakable flavour.

Picking through a botanical maze

This delectable taste and aroma, tinged with a subtle hint of dried tobacco leaves, is present in the coffee that Arman serves. This cheerful, 26-year-old man bustles about his brand-new coffee machine. Temporarily set up in the back of his coffee van parked along the road that links the village of Takengon to the neighbouring village of Bener Meriah, he sells cups of his flavourful beverage to passers-by. And though today thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no coffee queue, his small business does pretty well for itself. Because, as this entrepreneur tells us, coffee is everywhere in Takengon: beans drying in the courtyards of private residences, popping up as plants behind any

One of the farms of the coffee-producer cooperative Ara Cahayani Gayo.

No machinery or engineering is used here: just time, skilful hands and devotion

Arman serves customers at his roadside coffee van.

The coffee cherries are sorted before being pulped and washed.

Here, everyone’s life involves coffee, including Hassimi, a farmer, with his wife on the farm in Bener Meriah.

given property and filling a cup to be sipped by the side of the road. Everyone’s life involves coffee and the beans’ social role is palpable in the many surrounding villages. The region has thousands of small family farms - usually spanning one hectare - with neighbours sometimes lending a helping hand during the busy harvest periods. Siswahyudi and his wife, both farmers, tend the coffee plantation behind their house in the middle of the village of Gayo, headquarters of the Ara Cahayani Gayo cooperative (the name means “There is light in Gayo” in the local dialect). The two spend their days in their botanical maze, hand-picking each vermilion cherry before delivering their daily crop – averaging about thirty kilos – to the new FairTrade cooperative founded in July 2017 in partnership with the Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality™ program. The harvest usually lasts for four months, but there’s no machinery or engineering used here - just time, skilful hands and devotion.

idiosyncratic process used

The weather in the mountains is starting to look threatening but no-one seems worried. It rains a great deal in Sumatra, as the monsoon stretches from October to April. This omnipresent humidity drove the region’s inhabitants into a veritable competition to come up with a specific technique that would allow them to continue their coffee-producing activities. Which is why the children don’t stop playing among the coffee trees, despite the rumble of thunder in the distance; their laughter rivals the sound of the prayer rituals that are as much a part of life for the villagers of Gayo as the raindrops.

Wash and wet hull

Whether the rain is soaking or the sun is searing the jungle’s rolling, verdant landscapes, the ritual of hand-picking remains unchanged. Once picked, the cherries are pulped before being soaked in water to ferment overnight, for at least a dozen hours. The next day they are washed liberally with water. These steps are more or less the same as in other coffee-growing regions – it’s what happens next that is the crucial step that gives the Indonesianproduced coffee its character and unusual spicy taste: wet hulling. If you want to see the impressive, rather noisy metal invention used to apply this process, you have to go to the cooperative, an immense warehouse on the edge of town. This machine, masterfully tamed by the premise managers, strips the beans of their outer covering, called parchment, at almost four times the usual moisture content. This distinctive step is what gives the Sumatran beans their milky colour and leads them to dry more quickly in the sun. All that’s left to do is place them outside until they reach their optimal moisture content – a prerequisite for proper conservation. It is the cooperative’s responsibility to oversee this step, ensuring the coffee’s quality so it meets Nespresso’s sustainable-development requirements in making Master Origin Indonesia. Indonesia, a Fairtrade-certified, 100%-Arabica coffee with a velvety texture and notes of tobacco leaves and green wood. The cooperative, created in April 2017 and vital to ensuring the excellence of the local black gold, is also involved in the village’s community life. It now can boast a membership

Master Origin Indonesia • Intensity: 8 Description: rich and woody • Aromatic profile: intense notes of dried tobacco and tropical woods • Processing methods used: wet hulling • Recommended extraction: espresso (40 ml), lungo (110 ml)

of 1,813 small coffee growers managing 1,657 hectares of plants, unified in the notion that nature’s rights come first, especially in this part of the world where deforestation is rampant. Guided by Nespresso, the farmers decided to join forces and farmland to develop an environmentally friendly coffee, using traditional methods involving sustainable water use. The year’s entire artisanal production, a total of 10 tonnes, is sold. The cooperative gives hope to the region’s families and serves as a vector to promote Nespresso’s values: the alliance of human labour, terroir and savoir-faire. Making a superior coffee, seeing a community grow and prosper – these form the dream shared by Noor, a young woman in her thirties who is a field agent for the cooperative; or another young woman named Teri, the accountant, who believes that the work done today – and especially tomorrow – creates an opportunity to show the world the traditions and sophistication of local coffee production. The turquoise jewel of Sumatra, a favourite of coffee connoisseurs, is the promise of a bright future for the people of the remote regions of Indonesia. _

The daughter and husband of Teri, accountant for the Ara Cahayani Gayo cooperative.

Pulping, fermentation: water is involved in every step.

The Gayo cooperative has 1,813Â member coffee growers and gives hope to the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s families

Coffee beans after being wet hulled.

idiosyncratic process used

A naturally dry process in Ethiopia

Forced to cope with the arid climate, coffee growers learned to ration water. Surprisingly, this improves, rather than diminishes, the flavour.

n the eyes of many historians, Ethiopia is the birthplace of humanity. In all probability, it is also the birthplace of coffee, the birthplace of coffee, for it is here that the coffee tree first rose from the ground. Therefore, it is logical that Nespresso chose this land to return to coffee’s very roots in creating its Master Origin Ethiopia. It is an Arabica wholly shaped by its environment. In the western reaches of this particularly arid country, farmers learned to manage with the little precious water available. Working in collaboration with the Nespresso AAA team and the NGO Technoserve, they produce coffee using the dry method, also called the ‘natural’ technique, to completely dry the fruit. The meticulous process begins by picking the ripe coffee cherries, which the coffee growers then spread on braided mats set in the sun. At night, the cherries are covered with a tarpaulin to keep them from absorbing moisture. They are then regularly turned, raked and spread anew, until the outer layer turns dark purple, resembling a raisin.

Once the cherry has dried, blackening and becoming brittle, it is crushed and the bean is extracted. The entire process can take up to four weeks. The fermentation that takes place as the fruit and skin dry is what develops the ripe, dry flavours of Master Origin Ethiopia, sweetened with notes of fruit jam and orange blossom. By applying this traditional technique, the growers produce coffee with a unique bright and fruity flavour. The Nespresso AAA team have centred their efforts on the role women have in this process, training them to oversee the work or become agronomists, so that they can ultimately teach this savoir-faire to others. The experts have found that entrusting them with these responsibilities has served to disseminate these effective practices with greater impact, returning coffee’s native land to its rightful place in history. _

Master Origin Ethiopia Intensity: 4 • Description: flowery and bright • Aromatic profile: floral • Processing methods used: dry method • Recommended extraction: espresso (40 ml), lungo (110 ml)

Women on the front line

The late harvest blushes violet in Colombia

In the Andes, producers let the coffee cherry reach the very end of its ripening process. An unusual and exacting method that calls for constant attention.

o you think you know how coffee is picked and processed? Think again. Master Origin Colombia with Late Harvest Arabica asserts its difference from other coffees the moment the cherries are picked. Because for this coffee, picking isn’t done when the fruit is red, but when it is more mature – thus the name ‘late harvest’. With Nespresso’s support, producers in the Cauca Department in the Andes wait for the cherry to turn a deep, purplish shade before harvesting them by hand. And they are picked fruit by fruit, because cherries on the same branch do not always reach maturity at the same time. This calls for experience and skill, as the time window between

Master Origin Colombia

Intensity: 6 • Description: fruity and vibrant Aromatic profile: fruity • Processing methods used: late harvest • Recommended extraction: espresso (40 ml), lungo (110 ml)

when the fruit must be picked and when it is too late to be picked is extremely narrow.

Virtuous protocol

Determining and acting at this ideal moment – the key to the success of this Master Origin Colombia – has been translated into a protocol, created by the Nespresso teams of AAA Sustainable Quality™ program in partnership with the farmers and the National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia. It has improved agricultural practices on farms that for the most part, are relatively small, with less than two hectares of land. Since 2004, this cooperation has fostered trust that allowed the late-harvest principle to become established. This was no small feat, as the coffee growers were initially dubious about its effectiveness, as it deviated from their long-standing practices. However, this scepticism has long since been swept away, as the new harvest timing is the very thing that makes Master Origin Colombia unique, with winey notes of berries, blackcurrants and cranberries. _

idiosyncratic process used

Honeyed gestures in Nicaragua With the meticulous ‘Black Honey’ process, farmers produce a coffee with a subtle, natural sweetness.

Master Origin Nicaragua• Intensity: 5 Description: sweet and harmonious • Aromatic profile: sweet cereal • Processing methods used: ‘Black Honey’ • Recommended extraction: espresso (40 ml), lungo (110 ml)

coffee cherries, remove the pulp, but do not yet separate the coffee bean from its enveloping sticky mucilage. The next step is a particularly meticulous exercise, with a drying process that will take several days.

Intense berry notes

The beans must be observed and constantly stirred, to avoid any rotting caused by the remaining moisture. The end, however, justifi es the means: the ‘Black Honey’ technique lets natural sugars seep into the bean itself, giving Master Origin Nicaragua the sweet flavour of honey and cereals. This harmonious aroma took ten years to achieve, the fruit of the Nespresso teams’ collaboration with local farmers. By learning good agricultural practices, they can ensure high-quality harvests for which they are paid a fair price. As time has passed, many producers have sought out this collaboration. Their combined efforts have created the destination of your sensory journey: a cup of coffee with a satiny sheen, the culmination of an exotic adventure, just as thrilling as promised. _

Gwenn Dubourthoumieu

icaragua. The country’s very name is a siren song luring you to explore, an invitation to an exotic adventure of lakes, volcanoes and plains stretching between the oceans’ shores. Here in this humid, natural wonderland is where Master Origin Nicaragua finds its identity. Close your eyes and imagine yourself in the highlands, enjoying a cup of coffee. This coffee is produced using the ‘Black Honey’ method, a technique that takes its name from the sticky fruit around the seed (mucilage). The farmers pick the

Master Origin

India recreates the roll, pitch and yaw of sea crossings

Cargo on vessels sailing to Europe was subjected to wind, waves and weather. The process known as ‘monsooning’, now replicated on dry land, is used on the Robusta contained in Master Origin India.

icture, a sailing ship of the British East India Company, back in the 19 th century, pummelled by the unpredictable ocean waves, carrying seasoned sailors and precious cargo: coffee. Between stormy and glassy seas, heavy rain and hot sun, the journey of both man and bean was rough indeed. For the latter, such ceaseless movement caused significant physical and organic changes. Over those six months at sea, the beans swelled with moisture, dried up and shrank with the heat of the sun. Once on Britain’s shores, they looked very different from the beans first loaded in the ship’s hold. But rather than shunning these altered beans,

Master Origin India • Intensity: 11 Description: intense and spicy • Aromatic profile: spicy • Processing methods used: ‘monsooning’ • Recommended extraction: espresso (40 ml), lungo (110 ml)

Europeans embraced them, finding they gave the coffee a uniquely noble character. Today, of course, maritime crossings are swifter and smoother. So, to obtain the same result as naturally achieved on the vessels of yore, a process called ‘monsooning’ was developed, applied when the rainy season begins in the State of Karnataka in southern India.

A roof, but no walls

Between June and September, the coffee beans, once sorted, dried and shelled, arrive in warehouses that are open on all sides. The beans are spread on the ground, where they absorb moisture from the air – humidity which must be maintained at between 10.5% and 14% –, double in size and change colour. They are continuously raked and stirred to prevent mould from developing. The ‘monsooning’ technique, traditionally applied to the Arabica, is now applied to the Robusta component of Master Origin India. It is this blend that creates the coffee’s intense, woody, spicy aromas and syrupy consistency, a texture reminiscent of the mist mingling with the spray of the whitecaps. _

inspirations

The Parisian glossary of gourmandise In Paris, gourmet pleasures have many flavours, colours and names. The 2018 Variations take inspiration from this delicious spectrum to celebrate the festive season. Learn this tasty pastry vocabulary with our little lexicon. Mmmm! Photos Florent Tanet By Nadia Hamam-Marty

Pure Parisian praline recipe

Lightness

The pastry trend in Paris is “less than more”: very little sugar – even sugar-free – and less fat. That means the very high-tech Barista has shown up right on time! It knows how to heat, blend and whip at the touch of a button, helping you make more than a dozen fun and fancy recipes, including a totally dreamy whipped creaminess. From iced coffee to latte art, from real Paris-style hot chocolate to a gourmet Nespresso beverage, it does everything just like a pro.

Medium difficulty, 8 minutes. · Place two tsp. of praline cream or chocolate spread into a 180 ml cup · Pour a Variations Paris Praliné espresso directly on top · Using the Barista, prepare some hot whipped creaminess: Pour in 100 ml of fat-free milk · Close the lid and press the Start button · Pour the whipped cream over the coffee, sprinkle with crushed praline and dark chocolate shavings ·

Praline

A blend of crushed hazelnuts or almonds with sugar and chocolate, Praline is a true confectionary star. In the patisserie world, it takes the luscious form of butter cream in the celebrated Paris-Brest cake. The Variations Paris PralinĂŠ espresso is just as sensual and succulent, with the rich aroma of toasted hazelnuts tinged with a touch of sweet caramel. A coffee with tender heart!

Variations Paris PralinĂŠ (Nespresso). Serving suggestion.

Black coffee

Introduced by the Procope café in the late 17th century, what was an exotic drink at the time gradually turned into a delicious moment of daily life and a Parisian ritual. The Arabicas’ aromatic richness, the boldness of the Robusta, notes of cereals and nuts with a hint of spice. The Paris Black limited edition is the perfect partner for a croissant eaten at the counter!

Paris Black Limited Edition (Nespresso).

Paris Macaron Crème brûlée recipe Easy, 8 minutes. · Pour 2 tsp. lemon curd into a 180 ml cup · Pour an espresso made with Variations Paris Macaron directly on top · Use the Aeroccino to prepare hot milk froth and pour onto the coffee. Sprinkle with cane sugar. Using a cooking torch, brown the top for a crème-brûlée look ·

Paris Black Macchiato recipe

Easy, 3 minutes. · Place a square of Nespresso dark chocolate in an Espresso cup · Pour an espresso made with the Paris Black limited edition directly onto the chocolate · Top with a splash of milk ·

It’s small and round, with a crisp, melt-in-your-mouth texture: this famous filled biscuit has become the quintessential gourmet symbol of the French capital. These days, it comes in an endless rainbow of colours and just as many flavours and now it’s the inspiration for the aroma of Variations Paris Macaron, created especially for this year’s festive season. Cereal notes and a subtle almond flavour join a harmonious blend that teases your palate with the taste of a nutty dessert.

Variations Paris Macaron (Nespresso). Serving suggestion.

inspirations

Haute couture patisserie

It’s the term for pastry creations that embody trends and honour high-end culinary tradition. They are showcased like precious jewellery, often produced through collaborations between fashion designers and pastry outlets. The face of this movement is Pierre Hermé, whose precious pastries are an essential experience for those visiting the City of Light. His worthy heir, Cédric Grolet, has also created iconic pastries, such as the Rubik’s cake (photo).

Though its broader meaning is “sweet tooth”, it can also refer to a foodie or a connoisseur of good food who samples every new spot, appreciates and venerates the makers of fine food. Today’s becs sucrés: Philippe Conticini, Yann Couvreur, Claire Damon, Claire Heitzler.

(Meilleur Ouvrier de France)

In the 50s, this man revolutionised French pastry with original recipes that were less sweet, lighter, and custard-free, all made with quality ingredients. His legacy continues in the pastry shops and school that bear his name.

petits fours, pousse-cafés

The French language is bursting with terms referring to the miniature sweet treats served at the end of a gourmet meal. Though in the language of Voltaire, the expressions often remain untranslated on menus at many of the world’s finest dining establishments.

Paris does tearooms on an entirely different level: it’s much more than nibbling pastries and sipping infusions! The French capital’s collection ranges from the truly traditional, like Ladurée and Angelina, to cutting-edge creative, like Sébastien Gaudard, Sadaharu Aoki and Jacques Genin.

You’ll find more recipes in photos and videos on the website: nespresso.com/recipes

Pierre Monetta - Whiteflower - stock.adobe.com

This title, awarded annually through an esteemed competition, denotes the country’s finest culinary craftspersons. The prize given to France’s pastry-confectioners is one of the most prestigious. The winners then wear a blue, white and red collar, a sign of unreserved excellence. Haute cuisine may have become international, but pastry remains fully French. Paris, the cultural bastion of gourmet sweets, is an unparalleled training ground: people come from the world over to study at the top schools, like Ferrandi or Cordon Bleu.

These soft shades represent a powerful trend: a rejection of artificial colouring. Pastry chefs like Hugo & Victor and Jessica Préalpato at the Plaza Athénée are part of this movement, favouring fruit-based natural colouring or simply avoiding colouring altogether. Pastels are also part of the chromatic range for Nespresso designs made for this year’s holiday season. Celebrated architect and ‘colour virtuoso’ India Mahdavi is decorating the Variations capsules and boxes, as well as our gift packaging, to resonate with the gentler spirit of today’s Parisian pastry. The designer has also created the articles of the new Origin collection, with soft, natural, rounded appeal.

Gran Lungo, Lungo, Espresso cups and small tray, Origin collection (Nespresso). Blond Chocolate and Dark Chocolate with caramel morsels in Limited Edition (Nespresso).

nouveau concept

Welcome to a sensory experience Nespresso Boutiques are being reinvented to take you on a matchless, in-depth coffee adventure. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a guided tour. By Jean Berthelot de la GlĂŠtais Photos Laurent Dupont

new concept

A warm, eco-friendly atmosphere

This is what you get when the artistry of design is applied to the world of coffee. The moment you enter a Boutique’s reception area and its completely redesigned concept, the colour palette – clearly inspired by the brown shades of coffee and crema – can be seen in everything from the floor tiles to the ceiling lights. This meticulously crafted décor makes sustainable development central to the experience, with features like this tasting table that irresistibly draws your gaze: its upper portion is made of recycled coffee grounds, while the wood comes entirely from sustainably managed forests in which a new tree is planted for every tree harvested. This means nothing is wasted – everything is transformed and becomes part of this unique sensory journey in utter harmony with nature.

Instantaneous immersion

No more wasted time. Now you can immediately dive into Nespresso aromas and flavours, as the queue becomes virtual. The Coffee Specialists come to you and, tablet in hand, start guiding you through an amazing experience of discovery and tasting. They also embody the brand’s commitment to sustainable development in other ways - for instance, their trousers, skirts and dresses are all made of recycled polyester.

Recycling in living colour

At first glance, what might seem like a pointillist painting is actually the capsule recycling zone. It can be seen the moment you enter the Boutique and is part of a more comprehensive approach to environmental responsibility. The coffee grounds are removed from the used capsules to make biogas or compost for growing rice that will subsequently be donated to food banks; the aluminium is recycled to find new life in the form of bicycles, refrigerators or even new capsules.

Local flavour

Each of the renovated Boutiques exudes more of the spirit of the city it calls home, through a cultural or artistic nod in an existing or specially designed feature. An example of this, can be seen in the detail of the ceiling at the Marais Boutique in Paris, a neighbourhood renowned for its museums and architectural treasures. Almost every renovated sales outlet bears strong traces of local identity.

Boutiques reinvented with sustainable development in mind

new concept

The capsule bares all

In the workshop space, a barista stands ready to invite you to try the best coffee and tell you how to select, prepare and taste it. They will also reveal all the secrets of your favourite beverages, in a conversation rich with references to travel and exploration. This coffee expert will even go so far as to open the capsule and detail its composition, show how fresh the contents are and explain how aluminium protects the ground coffee inside. This is the quintessential expression of Nespresso’s desire for transparency and information. Here, you can also learn tips and tricks to personalise your coffee, with or without milk. A masterclass is available by appointment, to further explore this world.

This visit calls upon your senses of smell, taste and touch, for a truly intense experience A journey of the senses

Tasting amidst the foliage

These glass amphorae are your chance to compare the colour, scent and even grind of your two favourite coffees, a wonderful way to stimulate your senses. Another highlight of your sensory expedition will be the aroma jars (see photo p. 82). Can you recognise your coffee’s aromatic profile just by sniffing it? To find out, head for the Boutique with your nose at the ready!

An area generously decorated with plants symbolises Nespresso’s successful initiatives in preserving the planet, like agroforestry. Above your head, the lamp resembles those that light the way for the men and women sorting coffee on farms in certain producer countries. Everything around you has meaning.

really George!

Rainer Hosch

On a quest for the best To bring a great coffee to life, you have to do more than cultivate coffee trees, you have to make sure you have the right people at every stage of the journey. The new Nespresso campaign brings all the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s essential contributors together with our trusted ambassador, George Clooney, around a single mission: exceptional coffee. By Nadia Hamam-Marty

really George!

to a wider cause. From farms to tasting rooms, the sustainable production model that Nespresso has been using for 15 years is firmly established, demanding the best of all our people. At Nespresso, a coffee is at its best not only when it brings intense pleasure to the person drinking it, but also when it is a source of pride and sustainable income for the coffee farmer growing those cherries. Cultivating coffee plants is not enough in itself when you can also cultivate vocations. George wants to understand this long-term strategy, and spent several hours with Pastora, Newton, Karsten and Mefthe, talking about their highly personal quests… and what makes an exceptional coffee. _

“I want to produce the highest-quality beans possible” Pastora Caballero Jáuregui, Coffee Farmer in Veracruz, Mexico. Her mission? “To grow, pick and process coffee following the guidelines provided by the agronomists commissioned by Nespresso.” Her quest? “To reduce the proportion of rejected beans by adapting farming and harvesting techniques.” Her source of satisfaction? “I was given the Nespresso Farmer’s Award for the quality of my coffee beans. That made me realise how much the Lungo I help make is appreciated by those who love intensely aromatic coffee.”

An incredible adventure! In the global campaign, The Quest, George Clooney dons knightly armour in the most theatrical work ever created for Nespresso. Sharing the screen with actress Natalie Dormer, he defies space and time to get his favourite coffee. Whether in a royal court of the Middle Ages or on the streets of New York in the 21st century, George remains true to himself and his quest: for Nespresso coffee.

Rainer Hosch - DR

here are no shortcuts, Nespresso is on a constant journey to develop exceptional coffee. This is the message of the latest advertising campaign featuring the brand’s most trusted ambassador, George Clooney. This multi-channel, cross-platform campaign brings to life how Nespresso and George excel in both the public and private arenas. In the first phase, George shares his personal quest for exceptional coffee in a commercial that’s as high on spectacle as it is on humour (see inset, “The Quest”). Every bit as engaging, the second phase of content titled “Really George?” is truly a first of its kind, with the giant of the silver screen sharing the scene with key people in the Nespresso journey. A first! An agronomist, coffee farmer, and country director at TechnoServe all play opposite the star face-to-face. Taking the idea of commitment to a cause even further, their interaction reveals the extraordinary personal efforts that are needed to make our high quality Nespresso coffee. This is the result of their passion for excellence at every stage of the production process. The third and final phase gives voice to these everyday heroes in a series of short interviews. They all share their personal stories detailing the challenges they overcome and the enjoyment they get from contributing

“We help farmers become entrepreneurs” Mefthe Tadesse, Country Director for TechnoServe, Ethiopia. Her mission? “I connect coffee growers to the market and financial sector so they can get the equipment they need and develop their business.” Her quest? “To ensure farmers understand what Nespresso is looking for in a coffee, so they can produce and sell it.” Her source of satisfaction? “When I see the coffee farmers’ success expressed in their smiles and the stories they share.”

“The coffee speaks for itself” Karsten Ranitzsch, Head of Coffee at Nespresso. His mission? “Working with farmers in the countries of origin to help them improve their productivity, sustainability standards and quality at one end of our value chain and to understand the consumer preferences at the other end is what I am passionate about.” His quest? “To excite with products which go beyond inspiring a tasteful and meaningful living.” His source of satisfaction? “Seeing how farms participating in the Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality Program are changing over the years, listening to farmers who have joined us on the journey of sustainability and quality and to witness the positive impact on the regions where we are working is the most rewarding part of my job.”

“Quality coffee starts on the farm” Newton Openheimer Beraldo, Agronomist, Brazil. His mission? “To find solutions to improve quality and productivity by using the resources farmers already have on their properties, and to support them in the process.” His quest? “To share the spirit of the Nespresso program with the producer, instead of just a set of rules to follow.” His source of satisfaction? “When I see eco-sustainable practices applied on the farms and production costs and environmental risks start going down. That means the farmers’ entire future has been safeguarded.”

cooking lesson

Salmon gravlaks with coffee and a Ristretto Decaffeinato Try this daring and inspired combination of coffee and salmon for yourself.

Espresso glass, Pixie collection (Nespresso).

By Sophie Dupuis-Gaulier Photos Virginie Garnier

Serves 4. Preparation time: 15 minutes. Marinating: 24 hours + 48 hours. For the beverage: 4 capsules of Ristretto Decaffeinato (4 x 40 ml). For the recipe: 600 g fatty Scottish salmon fillet · 4 capsules of Ristretto Decaffeinato (4 x 40 ml) · 50 g rock salt · 50 g sugar · 4 sprigs of dill. For the sauce: 100 g thick crème fraiche · 1 heaped tsp. mustard · 1 sprig of dill · Freshly ground black pepper.

· Make 4 x 40ml Ristretto Decaffeinato and leave to cool · Rinse the salmon in cold water and pat dry with kitchen roll. Use a sharp knife and tweezers to remove the skin and bones. Place in a deep dish and pour the cold coffee over the salmon. Cover with plastic wrap

and place in fridge for 24 hours, remembering to turn the fish after 12 hours · Drain the fish, pour out the coffee, and place salmon back in dish · Wash, dry, and finely chop the dill. Mix it with the salt and sugar in a bowl and spread over the salmon. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 48 hours, regularly emptying the water that forms in the bottom of the dish · When ready to serve, rinse the fish under cold water, dry, and cut into 0.5cm wide strips · Prepare the sauce: rinse, dry, and finely chop the dill. Mix with the crème fraiche, mustard, and black pepper · Serve the salmon with the cream and black bread · Enjoy with a Ristretto Decaffeinato (40 ml).

Caution: the featured recipes may contain different allergens. Should you have any allergy or intolerance, you are responsible for modifying the ingredients as necessary.

A COLORFUL COLLABORATION 3 years, 3 colors, 3 knives â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1 shared passion for quality, innovation and sustainability. We are thankful for a successful partnership. Pioneer Nespresso Dharkan 2018 Limited Edition

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