Melbourne
The SO NESPRESSO City Guide is published by the Nestlé Nespresso S.A. Group. Avenue d’Ouchy 4-6, 1006 Lausanne - Switzerland. Publication Director Jean-Marc Duvoisin. Executive Editor Lise Peneveyre. Concept/Production Les Digitalistes, 9 rue Emilio Castelar, 75012 Paris. Phone: +33 (0)1 43 44 55 20. Editor-in-Chief Boris Coridian. Art Director Virginie Oudard. Coordinator Sophie Bouniot. Editorial Secretary Joël Métreau. Collaborators for this issue Mickaël A. Bandassak, Julien Blanc-Gras, Pauline Gabinari, Frédéric Stucin. Translation TagLine. Photolitho Compos Juliot. Printer Mohn media Mohndruck Gmbh. © Copyright 2019 Nestlé Nespresso S.A. All rights reserved. Nespresso, the names of the various Nespresso coffee varieties and the Nespresso logos mentioned in the SO NESPRESSO City Guide are trademarks of the Société des Produits Nestlé S.A. that may be registered in certain countries. This magazine is printed on FSC-Mix-certified paper.
A metropolis isn’t awarded the coveted title of “World’s Most Liveable City” by mere chance happenstance. Melbourne is brimming with original, inspiring, surprising places. So as not to get lost in this marvellous maze, SO NESPRESSO has assembled a guide to all the favourite places of ten interesting, influential Melbournians. Spend some time with those who make Melbourne such a fascinating place as they lead you along the city’s laneways. Coffee in hand, of course.
RESTAURANT
BAR CLUB
COFFEE SHOP
MARKET
GREEN SPACE
THEATRE
SHOP
MUSEUM/ HISTORIC SITE
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Adam and Christian Ferrante, founders of The Rose St. Artists’ Market They opened their upbeat, eclectic market in the eye of Melbourne’s creative hurricane, creating a place where artists mingle with weekend culture hounds. The Ferrante brothers, the founders of this must-see shopping oasis in the heart of Fitzroy, share their insider secrets. The Rose St. Artists’ Market 60 Rose St., Fitzroy +61 3 9419 5529 / rosestmarket.com.au
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HELL OF THE NORTH “The name is a nod to the ParisRoubaix cycling race. It’s a French bistro tucked away on a hidden street. You can walk right past it and never know it’s there. The building is really distinctive and you can bring your own bottle of wine.”
135 Greeves St., Fitzroy +61 3 9417 6660 / hellofthenorth.com.au
HEIDE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART “Works by the best Australian artists are on display here. The gardens, architecture and galleries are superb. We grew up not far from here – it’s a great place for a walk even if there’s no exhibition.”
Hell of the North
7 Templestowe Rd., Bulleen +61 3 9850 1500 / heide.com.au
DC DUMPLING “It’s like Hong Kong in miniature. The only thing they serve at this eatery is dumplings. It’s delicious, cheap, noisy and always packed. Don’t miss it.”
THE RED TRIANGLE SNOOKER ROOMS “A legendary billiards hall where locals go to play snooker. It’s also a trip back to the Melbourne of yesteryear, on the top floor of an ageless warehouse. A totally authentic, vintage place.”
590 Station St., Box Hill +61 3 9898 1620
DIAMOND BAY “This is where the Port Phillip Bay and the ocean meet on the Mornington Peninsula. There’s a hidden beach and the view is mesmerising. We’ve been going there since we were kids. It’s an hour from the city, perfect for spending the day outside.”
110 Argyle St., Fitzroy +61 3 9419 7330 / redtriangle.com.au
Diamond Bay Rd., Sorrento
D.O.C. ESPRESSO “This place is the quintessential Italian café, where the elders meet to drink very good espresso. The Little Italy district is the beating heart of Melbourne’s coffee culture.” 326 Lygon St., Carlton +61 3 9347 8482 / docgroup.net
+39 PIZZERIA “The place takes its name from Italy’s telephone country code. It’s right in the city centre and serves really high-quality pizza.” 362 Little Bourke St., Melbourne +61 3 9642 0440 / plus39.com.au
The Red Triangle Snooker Rooms
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Alex Lahey, musician After the success of her first album, Alex Lahey has released her newest LP, The Best of Luck Club. The young rocker is setting the music scene alight worldwide and has these suggestions for those who want to party in style. alexlahey.com.au
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OASIS BAKERY “I was raised by a GreekEgyptian mother, so I know what real falafel is. And this is where you’ll find it. This place is an oasis for Melbourne’s Middle Eastern community. Everything’s good: chawarma, chakchouka, you name it.”
The Evelyn Hotel
9/993 North Rd., Murrumbeena +61 3 9570 1122 / oasisonline.com.au
THE EVELYN HOTEL “This is where I made my stage debut with my first band. I’m a regular here, because there’s always great ambiance. The staff couldn’t be nicer and the beer is cold. Nothing but good vibes in the air.”
THE 86 “The city’s liveliest queer night, Honcho Disko, is at The 86 cabaret bar on Thursday nights. No matter who you are, it’s a safe, welcoming place for people who want to express themselves in their own way. And party.”
351 Brunswick St., Fitzroy +61 3 9419 5500 / evelynhotel.com.au
185 Smith St., Fitzroy +61 3 9077 4360 / the86.com.au
MIXED BUSINESS CAFE “The best poached eggs in the city. Everything’s excellent, right down to the ploughman’s – a plate of cheeses, cold cuts and pickles. Add some fresh-squeezed orange juice and you’re in heaven.”
THE NAPIER HOTEL “I think this is the best pub in Melbourne. You know what you’re going to get, but anything can happen there. You have to try their chicken parmigiana, garnished with a slice of kangaroo meat. It’s one of a kind.”
486 Queens Parade, Clifton Hill +61 3 9486 1606 mixedbusinesscafe.com
210 Napier St., Fitzroy +61 3 9419 4240 thenapierhotel.com.au
NEIGHBOURHOOD WINE “This former cocktail bar has been my favourite restaurant for a while because they have a great wine selection. As far as food goes, I recommend going there on a Sunday for the Sunday Roast menu.”
The Napier Hotel
1 Reid St., Fitzroy North +61 3 9486 8306 neighbourhoodwine.com
JOE’S SHOE STORE “One of my favourite bars in Melbourne. They have a respectable beer selection, a solid wine list and a spritz that could quench a camel’s thirst. You can also order pizzas in the adjacent restaurant.” 233 High St., Northcote +61 3 9482 7666 joes-shoe-store.business.site
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Kate Reid, Lune pastry chef In fashionable Fitzroy, this former Formula 1 engineer and her team roll out the best croissants in the city. You can buy these competition-calibre pastry masterpieces at one of her two shops in town. Here are her favourite places! Lune 119 Rose St., Fitzroy +61 3 9419 2320 161 Collins St. (entrance on Russell Street) lunecroissanterie.com
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Napier Quarter
Fitzroy Gardens
FITZROY GARDENS “I think these are the most beautiful gardens in Melbourne. I walk my dog here almost every day and, when the weather’s good, I love to picnic on the grass.”
NAPIER QUARTER “This gem of an eatery in Fitzroy is my favourite place for breakfast. You can also go there at day’s end for a glass of wine served with small portions of delicious fare. It captures the neighbourhood spirit perfectly.”
Wellington Parade, East Melbourne +61 3 9658 9658
359 Napier St., Fitzroy +61 3 9416 0666 / napierquarter.com.au
PATRICIA COFFEE BREWERS “This is the greatest espresso bar in Melbourne! The staff are warm, friendly and incredibly talented.”
MARION “This restaurant is one of Chef Andrew McConnell’s establishments. The bistro atmosphere and a refined wine selection have made it an essential Fitzroy food destination. But their best-kept secret is the weekend breakfast menu. Incredible.”
Little Bourke St. & Little William St., Melbourne / patriciacoffee.com.au
PIDAPIPÓ “The best ice cream I’ve ever tasted. My favourite flavours are pistachio and bacio (chocolate-hazelnut). Add some whipped cream and dig in. Everything’s homemade from completely traceable ingredients.”
53 Gertrude St., Fitzroy +61 3 9419 6262 / marionwine.com.au
SUPERNORMAL “This place is near our Lune centre-city location, so I lunch there regularly. The menu ventures to several Asian countries with disconcerting simplicity. I like to sit at the bar alone and watch the chefs at work.”
299 Lygon St., Carlton +61 3 9347 4596 / pidapipo.com.au
CITY WINE SHOP “I love having a drink with friends on the terrace at this wine bar, and it has a wine shop, too. If you’re hungry, I highly recommend getting an order of their polenta chips!”
180 Flinders Ln., Melbourne +61 3 9650 8688 / supernormal.net.au
BUILDERS ARMS HOTEL “You won’t find a room for the night at this old hotel that’s been turned into a pub and restaurant. But you will find the best Melburnian cheeseburger. Be sure to get a table in the courtyard, in the shade of a bougainvillea. Everything you need for a perfect summer evening.”
159 Spring St., Melbourne +61 3 9654 6657 / citywineshop.net.au
ATTICA “This gourmet restaurant is where I go when I really want to treat myself. Chef Ben Shewry is an incredibly inspiring and talented man.” 74 Glen Eira Rd., Ripponlea +61 3 9530 0111 / attica.com.au
211 Gertrude St., Fitzroy, +61 3 9417 7700 buildersarmshotel.com.au
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Lucy Feagins, trend hunter She’s the founder of The Design Files, the design blog that spotlights the latest trends in interior design, food and culture. Lucy Feagins lays out her picks for distinguished spots in the vibrant Collingwood-Fitzroy neighbourhood, where her office is based. thedesignfiles.net
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KEITH HARING MURAL “This iconic mural by American artist Keith Haring, which he created when visiting Australia in 1984, is on the former site of Collingwood Technical College.” 35 Johnson St., Collingwood melbourneharingmural.com.au
CIBI + THE PLANT SOCIETY “A Japanese café/restaurant that also has a plant shop on the premises. They dovetail perfectly. The café serves genuine Japanese breakfasts and lunches. The store’s an indoor jungle where you can buy everything you need to green up your home, with expert advice to boot.”
33-39 Keele St., Collingwood +61 4 8139 8686 / shop.cibi.com.au +61 4 3928 2409 / theplantsociety.com.au
Happy Valley
BURNSIDE “The best coffees and sandwiches north of the river. The service is fast and friendly. This little café is two minutes from my office, so it’s part of my daily routine.”
PEEL STREET PARK “This Collingwood park is a small green paradise, perfect for a picnic on a sunny day. It’s tucked away in an unlikely place, between the new buildings on Smith Street, and is a popular spot with locals. There’s a fresco there by Melbourne artist Spencer Harrison.”
87a Smith St., Fitzroy +61 3 8394 7335
HAPPY VALLEY “This is my favourite bookstore. It has an excellent selection of coffee-table books on art and design along with an outstanding array of gifts and vinyl.”
At the corner of Peel St. and Oxford St., Collingwood +61 3 9205 5555
294 Smith St., Collingwood +61 3 9077 8509 / happyvalleyshop.com
Modern Times
TOKYOBIKE “This is a small, independent Japanese bike company. I love their low-tech models and colour choices. Three members of my staff use these bikes to get to work.” 5 Peel St., Collingwood +61 3 9417 2845 / tokyobike.com.au
MODERN TIMES “A magnificent independent shop that sells vintage furniture, lighting and handcrafted household items.” 311 Smith St., Fitzroy +61 3 9913 8598 / moderntimes.com.au
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Mitch Tambo, artist He has made it his mission to educate others about Aboriginal history and culture. Mitch Tambo is a man of many talents – musician, actor, television host, who’s connecting the modern world with a multimillennial tradition. mitchtambo.com.au
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DIANNA SNAPE PHOTOGRAPHY
Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre
MELBOURNE STAR OBSERVATION WHEEL “This Ferris wheel is on the docks and gives you a breath-taking view of the entire city and a chance to learn more about local history.” The District Docklands, 101 Waterfront Way, Docklands +61 3 8688 9688 / melbournestar.com
BUNJILAKA ABORIGINAL CULTURAL CENTRE “A superb collection of Aboriginal art from different corners of Australia. A visit to Bunjilaka is a good way to gain a deeper understanding of Aboriginal culture.”
BALLARAT WILDLIFE PARK “A park with wide open spaces offering an up-close experience with the country’s most iconic animals – you can feed kangaroos, koalas, emus and more. There’s also a huge crocodile, and a guided tour goes out every morning at 11 o’clock.”
CHARCOAL LANE “Stories have always been shared over a good meal. This restaurant serves the foods that are inextricably linked to the history and memory of their native territory, while working on social initiatives that help young Aboriginal people. It’s an establishment that’s critical to understanding this country.”
THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD “Australia’s most beautiful coastal road, taking you past the shores of Bells Beach. You don’t have to be a surfer to appreciate this natural grandeur. Further on are the Twelve Apostles, magnificent limestone formations rising up from the sea in the Port Campbell National Park. Sightseeing at its best just a three-hour drive from Melbourne.”
250 Fussell St., Ballarat East +61 3 5333 5933 / wildlifepark.com.au
11 Nicholson St., Carlton +61 131 102 museumsvictoria.com.au/bunjilaka
visit12apostles.com.au visitgreatoceanroad.org.au
Gertrude St., Fitzroy +61 3 9418 3400 / charcoallane.com.au
Charcoal Lane
The Twelves Apostles
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Shannon Bennett, chef and entrepreneur At the helm of seven restaurants – including the gourmet Vue de monde atop a city skyscraper – Shannon Bennett embraces Melbourne’s heritage anew and is actively helping to forge his city’s culinary identity. Vue de monde 55th floor, Rialto Towers 525 Collins St., Melbourne +61 3 9691 3888 vuedemonde.com.au
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Spring Street Grocer
PRAHRAN MARKET “This local market has a wide variety of quality local fruits, vegetables, meats, dairy products and seafood. For those who want to learn more about our ingredients, they offer free tours, too.”
Suite A, Level 1, 163 Commercial Rd., South Yarra +61 3 8290 8220 / prahranmarket.com.au
HILL OF CONTENT “This bookstore has a broad selection of illustrated books and novels for both adults and children, with a regular schedule of meet-the-author events.” 86 Bourke St., Melbourne +61 3 9662 9472 hillofcontentbookshop.com
MOUNT ERICA HOTEL “I think this is the best pub in the city. The interior décor is simple and has elements inspired by the movie The Grand Budapest Hotel. They serve real pub food.”
SPRING STREET GROCER “A selective grocer selling top-quality products like cheese, artisanal ice cream, an array of fruits and vegetables and more. I like it a lot because I can find excellent and rare goods there.”
420 High St., Prahran / +61 3 9529 8250 mountericahotel.com.au
157 Spring St., Melbourne +61 3 9639 0335 springstreetgrocer.com.au
ST KILDA SKATEPARK “This new generation skate park was designed by my friend Renton Millar. For serious skaters, it’s best to come during the week to avoid the crowds.”
ANNA SCHWARTZ GALLERY “This contemporary art gallery features superb works from a selection of visionary artists from Australia and around the world.”
Marine Parade, St Kilda
185 Flinders Ln., Melbourne +61 3 9654 6131 / annaschwartzgallery.com
St Kilda Skatepark
ARC ONE GALLERY “I really like this gallery because it supports promising Australian artists. There are contemporary works on exhibit there and group shows that really reflect the country’s cultural diversity.” 45 Flinders Ln.,s Melbourne +61 3 9650 0589 / arcone.com.au
DODEE PAIDANG “This Thai restaurant is so good that I’d rather not even let the world know it exists! The prices are really reasonable, too.” Basement, Causeway 353 Hotel, 353 Little Collins St., Melbourne +61 3 9602 4968 / dodeepaidang.com
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Victor Liong, chef and owner of Lee Ho Fook Victor Liong reinterprets and renovates the Chinese cuisine he grew up with, taking guests on a creative culinary journey through the city’s cultural diversity. A commitment to excellence that has earned his establishment countless accolades. Lee Ho Fook 11-15 Duckboard Place, Melbourne +61 3 9077 6261 / leehofook.com.au
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DINNER BY HESTON “If you’re looking for a spectacular gourmet restaurant, get a table at this one run by British chef Heston Blumenthal. Dinner by Heston is impeccable on every level: the presentation, the culinary precision, the top-quality wine list and the world-class service.”
Crown Towers, Level 3, 8 Whiteman St., Southbank +61 3 9292 5779 / dinnerbyheston.com.au
Vacation
VACATION “Though this coffee shop’s in a neighbourhood that’s already packed with places dedicated to the city’s favourite beverage, I still recommend this sleek and chic spot. The staff are super friendly, too.”
DAINTY SICHUAN NOODLE EXPRESS “This place is in the Emporium shopping centre and is the best place for noodles you’ll find. Everything on the menu is excellent and very affordable. There are three other Dainty Sichuan outlets: South Yarra, Bourke Street and Box Hill.”
1 Exhibition St., Melbourne +61 3 9662 2013 / itsavacation.com
SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET “I love this market! They have an excellent selection of fresh foods, as well as accessories, toys, flowers and more.”
Lower Level, Emporium, 287 Lonsdale St., Melbourne / +61 3 9020 4332
EMBLA “This low-key wine bar has impeccable décor and warm and friendly service. The wine selection is really interesting and the food’s delicious. Know before you go: they don’t take reservations in the evening.”
322-326 Coventry St., South Melbourne +61 3 9209 6295 / southmelbournemarket.com.au
BUTCHERS DINER “I love going to this restaurant late at night. Butchers Diner is open 24 hours a day and you’ll always find something for snacking. I order the Coney Island Chilli Dog, the Creole salmon cutlet or the Greek salad.”
Upstairs, 122 Russell St., Melbourne +61 3 9654 5923 / embla.com.au
ANCHOVY “This restaurant serves something between modern Australian and contemporary Asian cuisines. Potent flavours, flawless recipes, exacting design. Best of all, the list of vermouths is really impressive!”
10 Bourke St., Melbourne +61 3 9639 7324 / butchersdiner.com
FLOWER DRUM “This classic, elegant and timeless Cantonese restaurant is one of my favourites haunts. They have a very extensive wine list and a wonderful selection of burgundies.”
338 Bridge Rd., Richemond +61 3 9428 3526 / anchovy.net.au
17 Market Ln., Melbourne +61 3 9662 3655 / flowerdrum.melbourne
ABOVE BOARD “I like this bar the best. Minimalist aesthetics, well-made cocktails and a very intimate atmosphere, since they can only seat twelve people. Word to the wise: they don’t take reservations.” Level 1, 306 Smith St., Collingwood aboveboardbar.com
Above Board
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Shri Bhagwandas, café entrepreneur He’s a veritable business factory. After getting the Bawa café off the ground, Shri Bhagwandas opened the Bicycle Thieves Café, a much-praised establishment in Northcote. He’s as Melbournian as can be, a global citizen with a blend of Sri Lankan, Cypriot and Italian heritage. One of the locals that brings the local coffee culture such renown. Bicycle Thieves Cafe 449 High St., Northcote +61 3 9482 1701 / bicyclethievescafe.com.au
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Minamishima
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
EVE WILSON
Zoo de Melbourne
ZOO DE MELBOURNE “I have a membership – I take my children there once a month. I love it and they do, too. You can spend an entire day there and have a really great time.”
MINAMISHIMA “This Japanese restaurant is something everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime. There are only about twenty seats – sometimes you have to wait for months just to get a table. You don’t choose your dishes – the chef and the seasons dictate each day’s menu. An incredible place.”
Elliott Ave., Parkville +61 1300 966 784 / zoo.org.au
THE LANEWAYS OF MELBOURNE “When you’re in the city centre, there’s much more to explore than just the main roads. Go see the laneways – that’s where you’ll find the most interesting independent shops. Don’t be afraid to venture off the beaten track.”
4 Lord St., Richmond +61 3 9429 5180 / minamishima.com.au
COOKIE “Down in the city centre, there’s a soulless building that hides this festive, completely unexpected restaurant. This is the place to be if you want some very good Thai food, or just for a drink after work, until late at night.”
STOKEHOUSE ST KILDA BEACH “This restaurant is an institution in the St Kilda district. It’s on the beach and has breath-taking views of the bay. It’s one of my favourite places.”
Level 1, Curtin House, 252 Swanston St., Melbourne +61 3 9663 7660 / cookie.net.au
30 Jacka Blvd., St Kilda +61 3 9525 5555 / stokehouse.com.au
SIGLO “A cosy bar with a terrific rooftop overlooking the Parliament House. It’s impossible to find if you don’t know what’s hidden behind that door along the street.”
Stokehouse St Kilda Beach
2/161 Spring St., Melbourne +61 3 9654 6631 / siglobar.com.au
MELBOURNE CRICKET GROUND “This is the stadium where the Australian Football League – the famous ‘footy’ – holds its matches. I’m a big fan – it’s the number one sport here, practically a religion. You really have to see it in person!” Brunton Ave., Richmond +61 3 9657 8888 / mcg.org.au
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James Quigley, Nespresso Boutique Manager After living in Sydney for three years, he ended up coming back to his hometown. This Australian, who starts his day with a piccolo latte – a ristretto-based minilatte –, enjoys the quality of life in the big city in the south-east corner of his country. He doesn’t draw comparisons between Sydney and Melbourne, since he says people should spend time and tread pavement in both cities to understand Australia!
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LONG SONG “You have to go up to the first floor of this old industrial building to find this spectacular restaurant. The cocktails are made from locally distilled spirits. And the cuisine explores many parts of the world with finesse and flavour.”
Upstairs, 44 Little Bourke St., Melbourne +61 3 9653 1611 / longsong.com.au
IDES
IDES “Chef Peter Gunn’s restaurant serves a six-course menu: four savoury dishes and two sweet. It’s a hub of culinary innovation that strives to surprise guests with innovative textures and shapes, but staying very precise when it comes to taste.”
THE CROFT INSTITUTE “This bar is hidden behind a barber shop in a small, twisty lane. When you walk in, it’s like entering a laboratory. The drinks are served in syringes. It turns into a nightclub on the weekend.”
92 Smith St., Collingwood +61 3 9939 9542 / idesmelbourne.com.au
21 Croft Alley, Melbourne +61 3 9671 4399 / thecroftinstitute.com.au
TULUM “Dining in this restaurant is tantamount to a fabulous gastronomic journey through Turkey. The mezze are presented with such finesse that it creates a warm, friendly ambiance of sharing.”
NAKED FOR SATAN “One of the best places in Melbourne to watch the sunset, sip infused vodka and snack on tapas. The multi-storey building has a restaurant and roof garden, a great way to see the entire city.”
217 Carlisle St., Balaclava +61 3 9525 9127 / tulumrestaurant.com.au
THE HATTER & THE HARE “This place is a restaurant, café and pastry shop rolled into one, inspired by the wacky, imaginative world of Alice in Wonderland. Colourful tableware and extravagant pastries whisk customers off to another world.”
285 Brunswick St., Fitzroy +61 3 9416 2238 / nakedforsatan.com.au
Naked for Satan
1/21 Scoresby Rd., Bayswater +61 3 9720 5230 / hhcafe.com.au
BOUZY BAR À VINS “This wine bar takes its inspiration from its Parisian counterparts, with a wide choice of wines to sip in a chic setting.” 976 High St., Armadale +61 3 9500 9546 / bouzy.com.au
FUTURE FUTURE “This restaurant serves updated Japanese dishes, like fried chicken karaage, with innovative, contemporary style. Such great sakes that it’s hard to choose.” 191 Swan St., Richmond +61 3 9965 7900 / futurefuture.com.au
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