Copenhagen
The SO NESPRESSO City Guide is published by the Nestlé Nespresso S.A. Avenue d’Ouchy 4-6, 1006 Lausanne — Switzerland. Publication Director Jean-Marc Duvoisin. Executive Editor Lise Peneveyre. Concept/Production Les Digitalistes, 9 rue Emilio Castelar, 75012 Paris. Tel.: +33 (0)1 43 44 55 20. Editor-in-Chief Boris Coridian. Art Director Virginie Oudard. Coordinator Sophie Bouniot. Editorial Secretary Amélie Modenese. Collaborators for this issue Morgane Aubin, Mickaël A. Bandassak, Guillaume Jan, Frédéric Stucin. Translation TagLine. Photolitho Compos Juliot. Printer Mohn media Mohndruck Gmbh. © Copyright 2019 Nestlé Nespresso S.A. All rights reserved. Nespresso, the names of the various Nespresso coffee varieties and the Nespresso logos mentioned in the SO NESPRESSO City Guide are trademarks of the Société des Produits Nestlé S.A. that may be registered in certain countries. This magazine is printed on FSC-Mix-certified paper.
We all know a siren’s song is impossible to resist, and Copenhagen even has its own mermaid. The modern traveller approaches the city already anticipating the thrilling temptations, culinary delights and renowned beauty waiting to be encountered. Cosy coffee shops, cutting-edge cuisine, enchanting parks, exclusive boutiques, eclectic venues – the city is endlessly stimulating. Nine inspiring personalities from the Danish capital tell you about their favourite places.
RESTAURANT
BAR CLUB
COFFEE SHOP
MARKET
GREEN SPACE
THEATRE
SHOP
MUSEUM/ HISTORIC SITE
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Louise Campbell, designer Her delicate works are displayed in design museums worldwide. And Louise Campbell loves her city as much as her art, having explored its every facet. Nespresso found her style enchanting and asked her to create the graphic identity of the brand’s year-end, limited-edition offer. Studio Louise Campbell louisecampbell.com
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Cisternerne
COLUMBUS LETH
Aamanns
AAMANNS “Chef Adam Aamann’s eateries are by far the best place to try smørrebrød, the famous Danish open-faced sandwiches. You must taste the herring version at Aamanns Deli & Take Away.”
CISTERNERNE “The Cisternerne was once Copenhagen’s drinking water reservoir, but now is not only a mystical (and visit-worthy) underground wonder, it serves as backdrop for awesome contemporary art exhibitions.”
Øster Farimagsgade 10, Copenhagen +45 20 80 52 02 / aamanns.dk
Søndermarken 2000 Frederiksberg +45 30 73 80 32 / cisternerne.dk
LA BANCHINA “This restaurant and wine bar is on the water’s edge. Sheer heaven. Enjoy organic food and beverages, relax, swim, read… and just be!”
COPENHAGEN CONTEMPORARY “This national arts centre is one of the city’s most expansive places in both size and spirit. It’s a second home to contemporary artists, hosting installations, performances and video works.”
Refshalevej 141 +45 31 26 65 61 / labanchina.dk
HOLLY GOLIGHTLY “This shop is a breath of fresh air in the world of Danish fashion: lots of colours and cuts to create the perfect, pulled-together look. I always leave the store with a smile on my face.”
Refshalevej 173A, Copenhagen +45 29 89 72 88 copenhagencontemporary.org
Copenhagen Contemporary
Borgergade 17B, Copenhagen +45 33 14 19 15 / hollygolightly.dk
DESSERT DRAGENS KAGEVÆRKSTED “A tiny pastry shop that makes cakes so delicious that I wrote a poem in their honour.”
Sankt Peders Stræde 26, Copenhagen +45 33 12 52 43 / dessertdragen.dk
Kvæsthusbroen, Copenhagen +45 70 10 60 70 / ofeliaplads.dk
DR
OFELIA PLADS “What was once a wasteland on the harbourfront has quickly become a cultural hub. Outdoor concerts, coffee shops, deck chairs, swimming – they have everything you need for fun.”
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Richard Hart, baker A culinary craftsman with a heart of gold and the hands of a magician. Richard Hard experiments with delicious, daring breads for his customers. After a stint in California, this Londoner settled in Copenhagen to soak up its creative energy and gentler living. Hart Bageri Gl. Kongevej 109 1850 Frederiksberg +45 31 11 18 50 / hartbageri.com
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SANCHEZ “Mexican warmth and Danish refinement: I find that this restaurant is the epitome of perfectly dovetailed gastronomic cultures. Make sure you stop at Rosio Sánchez’s street food stand, Hija de Sanchez, for the best tacos in Copenhagen.” Istedgade 60, Copenhagen +45 31 11 66 40 / lovesanchez.com
WARPIGS “This restaurant is a ‘third place’ for my team. We go there to have a few beers – they have a great selection – and enjoy succulent barbecue. We’ve developed a real friendship with the staff. They do hospitality right!”
Balderdash
BALDERDASH “You absolutely must try this cocktail bar: the manager, who comes from San Francisco, invents explosive, sophisticated mixes that are always creative and imaginative.”
Flæsketorvet 25, Copenhagen +45 43 48 48 48 / warpigs.dk
ROSFORTH & ROSFORTH “This wine cellar is right next to the bakery. They have a fine selection of natural wines and take the time to tell you about what makes each one special. Enthusiastic experts worth knowing.”
Valkendorfsgade 11, Copenhague +45 53 10 78 85 / balderdash.dk
DET VIDE HUS “An intimate, low-key coffee shop that’s the perfect place to discover new roasts and blends. Having a coffee here is guaranteed to soothe your soul.”
Knippelsbrogade 10, Copenhagen +45 33 32 55 20 / rosforth.dk
GEIST “This spacious place is magical and even has a rooftop terrace. The restaurant’s chef is insanely talented – he’s always trying new things and he manages to create incredible dishes with only three ingredients.”
Gothersgade 113, Copenhagen
BATTING BAKERY “One of the best bakeries I know. The couple who works here is so sweet, and the two of them have the same approach I: do everything out of love for the ingredient and the planet.”
Kongens Nytorv 8, Copenhagen +45 33 13 37 13 / restaurantgeist.dk
Ordrupvej 101 2920 Charlottenlund +45 35 13 60 00 / battingbakery.com
THE BARKING DOG “This mezcal bar takes me straight back to Mexico every time I go. You can also have a beer or a tequila cocktail here. It’s both chic and casual.” Sankt Hans Gade 19, Copenhagen +45 35 36 16 00 / thebarkingdog.dk
The Barking Dog
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Anne Dvinge, entrepreneur Anne Dvinge, co-founder of the Low-Fi platform, helps thousands of music lovers and artists come together to give unique, intimate concerts in their living rooms. Low-Fi lowficoncerts.com
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YES “The owner of this little coffee shop is the most hospitable man in the world. And his coffee is simply outstanding, as is the shop’s view of Marmorkirken Church.”
RUBY “This bar, which took over an 18th-century house, designs each cocktail to ensure every customer has a one-of-a-kind experience. It exudes pure hygge with its pale parquet floors, plush carpets and comfy, relaxing seating. Just the spot for a romantic tête-à-tête or to spend some time with friends.”
Store Kongensgade 75, Copenhagen +45 21 49 28 60 / cafeyes.dk
STORM “This concept store in the city centre leaves me wonderstruck every time I visit. There’s a top-notch selection of international brands, and the store itself is both gorgeous and practical.”
Nybrogade 10, Copenhagen +45 33 93 12 03 / rby.dk 108
“This gourmet restaurant is a Noma-style experience. The dishes are made with seasonal, local ingredients. I recommend the tasting menu, where you just sit back and enjoy the parade of fine foods.”
Store Regnegade 1, Copenhagen +45 33 93 00 14 / stormfashion.dk
DUCK AND COVER “This creative cocktail bar is a discreet, elegant getaway on a small, out-of-the-way street in Copenhagen.”
Strandgade 108, Copenhagen +45 32 96 32 92 / 108.dk
Dannebrogsgade 6, Copenhagen +45 28 12 42 90/duckandcoverbar.dk
REFFEN “Reffen is a multipurpose space. It’s right on the water where you can walk in the sand, play ball, listen to a concert, or all three at once. Plus lots of colourful stalls selling street food from around the world.”
ANDERSEN & MAILLARD “In the Nørrebro district, this coffee shop is my second home. The ambiance is quiet and respectful, so I can work there in the afternoon. Some of their coffees are roasted on site.” Nørrebrogade 62, Copenhagen +45 42 67 21 00 / andersenmaillard.dk
Refshalevej 167A, Copenhagen +45 33 93 07 60 / reffen.dk
Andersen & Maillard
Reffen
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Remee, composer, songwriter Remee is an artist with the Midas touch - a star of both small screen and the music charts. Famed for being a hit machine, he also knows how to pick things to see and do. Between his Arch nightclub and his Skindbuksen restaurant, the oldest in Copenhagen, Remee is a man about town in every sense.
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CLAES BECH-POULSEN
Louisiana
LOUISIANA “This museum of modern art is well worth the 40-minute train ride from the city. An excellent location right by the sea and outstanding exhibitions showcasing contemporary artists.”
Geranium
GERANIUM “This restaurant is Copenhagen’s only three-Michelin-star dining establishment. Chef Rasmus Kofoed’s menu changes with the seasons, featuring dishes that are odes to the Scandinavian terroir and prepared with exactitude and incomparable expertise. While you dine, you can take in a panoramic view of the city.”
Gammel Strandvej 13 3050 Humlebæk +45 49 19 07 19 / louisiana.dk
FREDERIKSBERG HAVE “My favourite green getaway: big enough to get lost in on foot, or go boating and shake off your cares after a heavy week.”
Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8, Copenhagen +45 69 96 00 20 / geranium.dk
SKINDBUKSEN “It’s one of Copenhagen’s oldest restaurants - it’s been around for 300 years! The ambiance is a mix of trendy art and tradition, a place you can much on classic Danish sandwiches at lunchtime, and more upscale items in the evening. Come in to experience a Danish atmosphere of centuries past.”
Frederiksberg Runddel 3E 2000 Frederiksberg +45 33 95 42 00
MIELCKE & HURTIGKARL “The most pastoral restaurant in Frederiksberg Park, with a terrace from which you can watch the peacocks roaming free. And the food is excellent, too.”
Lille Kongensgade 4, Copenhagen 45 33 12 90 37 / skindbuksen.dk
Frederiksberg Runddel 1 2000 Frederiksberg +45 38 34 84 36 / mhcph.com
ARCH “I wanted to create a party palace with unforgettable light show, a mesmerising sound system and a super-fresh playlist. It’s now the place to be for the city’s night creatures.” Nørregade 41, Copenhagen +45 41 14 14 33 / archcph.com
Skindbuksen
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Kristian Skaarup, urban farmer This passionate farmer may spend his days with his hands in the earth, but he is always reaching for the sky. On his rooftop, where the air is fresh, he carefully cultivates fruits and vegetables before preparing them for guests to savour at his terrace table d’hôte. Østergro Æbeløgade 4, Copenhagen +45 20 88 38 98 / oestergro.dk
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Dead Cat Motorcycles
H15 Cafeteria & Bar
H15 CAFETERIA & BAR “I love this bar that took over a former freight warehouse. They serve fresh, homemade dishes for a quick bite and the atmosphere, though relaxed on weekdays, really starts jumping on the weekends.”
DEAD CAT MOTORCYCLES “A watering hole where biker buddies gather on Tuesdays, 6pm to midnight, to drink beer and swap stories of the road.” Æbeløgade 4, Copenhagen deadcatmotorcycles.com
BYGAARD “This urban mini-farm tenderly pampers all its products, from mushrooms to a myriad of sprouts. The grocery is worth a visit, too.”
Halmtorvet 15, Copenhagen +45 26 13 68 46 / h15.dk
BYBI “Bybi supplies the most responsible honey in Copenhagen. The store’s beekeepers are committed to recreating natural ecosystems in the urban setting. They also offer guided tours of the hives, another great way to discover the city.”
Borgbjergsvej 54, Copenhagen +45 81 71 81 39
KLINT & BRO “A place where you can drink everything from a kombucha to a craft beer brewed on site. It’s got an easy-going ambiance and unfussy décor, perfect for winding down at the day’s end.”
Sundholmsvej 34, Copenhagen +45 42 44 21 92 / bybi.dk
Tagensvej 67, Copenhagen +45 42 76 89 86 / klintbro.dk
FOLKEHUSET ABSALON “A great little community house inside an old church. You can eat there, play ping-pong, even sign up for yoga classes. It’s fun, friendly, easy-going – a great place to lift your spirits.”
Sønder Boulevard 73, Copenhagen absaloncph.dk
KLUB BAGLOKALET “This is actually the cafeteria at the Fremad Amager football club. They serve delicious hot dogs and burgers and everything’s good and inexpensive. It’s a bit out of the way, but I like the idea of eating good-quality food at a football club!”» Sundbyvestervej 60, Copenhagen +45 31 21 07 00 / baglokal.dk
Klint & Bro
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Rosio Sรกnchez, chef Rosio Sรกnchez landed in Copenhagen eight years ago to work at Noma, but has since become a star in her own right in the world of new Nordic cuisine. Her three restaurants are dripping with authentic Mexican ambiance, introducing new flavours to Danish taste buds with recipes made mostly from local ingredients. Hija de Sanchez Slagterboderne 8, Copenhagen +45 53 73 95 10 / hijadesanchez.dk Sanchez Istedgade 60, Copenhagen +45 31 11 66 40 / lovesanchez.com
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KONGENS HAVE “It’s the perfect park for taking a walk when I have the afternoon off. I usually go with my dog before doing some shopping downtown.”
LANDBOHOJSKOLENS HAVE “I particularly like this park, a peaceful hideaway right in the city centre. From the moment you walk in, you’re in another world! It’s so relaxing, so beautiful, and you can go there at any time when you’re visiting the city.”
Øster Voldgade 4A, Copenhagen +45 33 95 42 00
NOMA “One of the things I look forward to most when I eat at Noma is going to the bar for a drink and relaxing before starting the meal. What a beautiful view! I could sit there for hours.”
Bülowsvej 17 1870 Frederiksberg +45 35 32 26 26
RESTAURANT PALÆGADE “One of the best Danish restaurants in the capital. It’s right in the middle of the old town and is the best place to discover the country’s traditional foods.”
Refshalevej 96, Copenhagen +45 32 96 32 97
ILUKA “This is one of my favourite restaurants in Copenhagen. The staff is so warm and professional! The dishes are made entirely from seasourced ingredients and all have simply astounding flavours and mind-boggling combinations.”
Palægade 8, Copenhagen +45 70 82 82 88 / palaegade.dk
HART BAGERI “This bakery is bursting with creativity, always coming up with new recipes. It’s fun to watch how things are constantly changing there, and to taste different pastries each time.”
Peder Skrams Gade 15, Copenhagen +45 30 30 95 89 / restaurantiluka.dk
Gl. Kongevej 109 1850 Frederiksberg +45 31 11 18 50 / hartbageri.com
GASOLINE GRILL “Whenever I have a bad day, I go to the Gasoline Grill. Eating there is so delightful that you don’t even feel guilty about eating a burger! They have several locations, but I recommend the very first to open, which is inside a gas station, truly original.”
POMPETTE “This wine bar belongs to two friends who wanted the world to better understand and appreciate natural wines! Crus of every colour are sold by the glass or bottle, with delicious, affordable snacks as well.”
Landgreven 10, Copenhagen gasolinegrill.com
Møllegade 3, Copenhagen pompette.dk
Gasoline Grill
Pompette
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Beau Clugston, chef In the kitchens of his Iluka restaurant, Beau Clugston transforms local-caught seafood into delectable, modern dishes. Fish and shellfish are prepared with expert precision, and arranged into works of beauty. The Australian cook’s establishment, though open for dinner only, has become a must-do among fans of sustainable fishing. Iluka Peder Skrams Gade 15, Copenhagen +45 30 30 95 89 / restaurantiluka.dk
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Volatil
DR
Søllerød Kro
SØLLERØD KRO “Søllerød Kro, a half-hour’s drive from the capital, is a Danish culinary institution. A classic dining room where time stands still and where I want my meal to never end.”
VOLATIL “This wine shop is a blessing. The owner shares his (vast) knowledge about the winemaking world with joy and a smile. You can also enjoy a glass of the most cutting-edge wine.”
Søllerødvej 35 2840 Holte +45 45 80 25 05 / soelleroed-kro.dk
Sønder Boulevard 52, Copenhagen +45 28 56 07 81 / volatil.dk
DEN VANDRETTE “This restaurant, a few minutes’ walk from Iluka, serves both fine wines and fine foods. I love to get a bottle of wine there and then sit by the canal with my staff or friends after work.”
RUFINO OSTERIA “I think this is the best Italian restaurant in town. The chef ships in his ingredients direct from Italy. The food is astounding, the wines are delicious. And the family ambiance is so enjoyable.”
Havnegade 53A, Copenhagen +45 72 14 82 28 / denvandrette.dk
Strandgade 14, Copenhagen +45 34 12 00 48 / rufino-osteria.com
WILL AT THE BRIDGE “This small eatery in the Bridge Street Kitchen food court is a place every Chinese-food lover must try. Will King Smith, an excellent chef who worked at Geranium, whips up dishes that electrify the taste buds.”
LES VOYAGEURS “The chic, relaxed atmosphere here is reminiscent of cafés in Paris, and you can have some coffee with a delicious croissant, just like in France. The patio is the perfect place for a bit of reading.”
Strandgade 95, Copenhagen +45 33 93 07 60 thebridgestreetkitchen.com
Holbergsgade 9, Copenhagen +45 53 86 03 02
TATA “The Sanders hotel bar is a place every cocktail lover should try. Order the Hanky Panky, made from gin and red vermouth – it’s the bartender’s specialty.”
APOLLO BAR & KANTINE “This coffee shop is part of my routine. I stop there daily to nibble a pastry or sip some coffee. The Apollo Kantine serves only one dish a day, but it’s healthy and balanced.”
Tordenskjoldsgade 15, Copenhagen +45 46 40 00 40 / hotelsanders.com
Nyhavn 2, Copenhagen +45 60 53 44 14 / apollobar.dk
AMAGER FAELLED “This enormous park is undoubtedly the most natural green space in Copenhagen. I go for long walks there with my dog, savouring the silence and clearing my head.”
CAFE SLUSEN “A super little coffee shop right on the water that’s open until sundown. Delicious dishes made with tinned seafood and very good wines.”
Artillerivej 73B, Copenhagen +45 34 34 34 34 / amagerfaelled.dk
Ved Slusen 34, Copenhagen
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Allan Torp, influenceur Allan Torp is an expert on Danish lifestyle. As the man behind the Bungalow5 blog and the book Scandinavian Style at Home: A Room by Room Guide, he has become a major influencer within the Danish design landscape. And as a hygge specialist, he knows the city’s cosiest spots. bungalow5.com
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HENRI “A barber shop that feels like home! The staff is tuned to your every need and eagerly offers precious advice. The services and treatments are always top quality.”
NIMB ROOF “The Nimb Hotel rooftop has superb views of Copenhagen. The cocktails are great and you can enjoy them stretched out in a poolside lounger. Things heat up in summertime, thanks to both the weather and the venue’s hot DJs and concerts.”
Elmegade 5, Copenhagen +45 35 12 22 00 / henri.dk
STUDIO ARHOJ “This design shop sells one-of-a-kind pieces and limited editions. A great place to shop for really original things for your home or as gifts.”
Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen +45 88 70 00 00 / nimb.dk
UNITY GYM “This gym is simply my part of my life. I go there several times a week. They have cutting-edge, high-tech equipment and the coaches are very experienced. There are also machines outdoors, which makes working out all the more enjoyable when the weather’s nice.”
Kigkurren 8M, Copenhagen +45 29 89 73 99 / arhoj.com
SONNY “A coffee shop that’s the embodiment of hygge, with refined décor and welcoming baristas. I often go there in the morning to work. The food they serve is healthy and affordable.”
Jorisvej 11 a, Copenhagen unitygym.dk
Rådhusstræde 5, Copenhagen +45 33 14 72 72 / sonnycph.dk
MANGIA “Antipasti, pasta, risotto and dolci for dessert: this restaurant in the Vesterbro quarter serves generous portions of real Italian cuisine. The service is efficient; the atmosphere is warm and friendly.”
KASTRUP SOBAD “This diving-board station on Amager Beach has truly impressive architecture, surrounded by crystal-clear water.” Amager Strandvej 301 2770 Kastrup +45 30 76 02 35
Bagerstræde 9, Copenhagen +45 31 39 45 00 / mangia.dk
Kastrup Sobad
Mangia
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Patrick Broby, Nespresso Boutique Manager He always starts his day with a Master Origin Indonesia lungo before making the rounds to the Nespresso Boutiques he manages. “I like coffee, but what I love the most is sharing the stories of the people and expertise behind the coffee,� says Patrick.
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JAGGER FAST FOOD “The burger wars are being fiercely fought in Copenhagen. Jagger has been repeatedly named one of the best burger outlets, justly earned with its ample portions and fresh ingredients.” jaggerfastfood.com
Torvehallerne
THE MARKET “This bar-restaurant has subdued lighting and intoxicating smells that will easily lure you in. You can then enjoy leading-edge Asian cuisine and fabulous cocktails.”
TORVEHALLERNE “This covered marketplace is simply splendid. There are plenty of delicatessens and gourmet groceries selling classic Danish products, alongside treats from across the globe. You can also eat smørrebrød here on weekdays and brunch at weekends.”
Kristen Bernikows Gade 9-11, Copenhagen +45 70 70 24 35 / themarketcph.dk
GRØFTEN “Grøften is a hidden treasure tucked away in Tivoli Gardens. It has a traditionally decorated dining room where you can enjoy a meal in classic Danish atmosphere.”
Frederiksborggade 21, Copenhagen +45 70 10 60 70 / torvehallernekbh.dk
MANON LES SUITES “I think the bar at the Manon Les Suites hotel is the quintessential expression of hygge, but just a touch more upscale. It’s by the pool, surrounded by lush greenery – you feel immersed in a timeless oasis, far from the city.”
Vesterbrogade 3, Copenhagen +45 33 75 06 75 / groeften.dk
BALTHAZAR “This bar at the famed Hotel d’Angleterre serves nothing but champagne. If you want to spend an evening at one of Copenhagen’s most exclusive spots, this is it.”
Gyldenløvesgade 19, Copenhagen +45 45 70 00 15
Ny Østergade 6, Copenhagen +45 33 12 12 62 / dangleterre.com
WOOD WOOD “A clothing store that captures the essence of Danish fashion: minimalist, but with a touch of whimsy. You can find everything from very dressy garments to streetwear, to create a style that’s all your own.” Grønnegade 1, Copenhagen +45 35 35 62 64 / woodwood.com
Østergade 61, Copenhagen +45 42 82 08 20 / hay.dk
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HAY “Hay is a store that sells furniture and decorative objects and has a broad interpretation of the world of Danish design. There’s a branch in Strøget, where I like to shop, but I also sometimes go there just to see what the latest trends are.”
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Balthazar
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