OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...
Spring 2012
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Back waters, Kerala Indian Tourism Office, 7 Cork Street, London W1S 3LH, Tel: 0207 437677 info@indiantouristoffice.org
www.inredibleindia.org
Photography by Grant Scott ©
Welcome As signs of spring emerge by our waterside offices at Ocean View, we bring you our second issue, to inspire you with fresh ideas for the new season. If like us, your thoughts are turning to booking a summer escape, then our inside track on cruise holidays may well spur you to take a trip on the water (pg 11), whilst our round up of the most desirable luggage has been designed to bring you the very best options to ensure that you arrive perfectly and stylishly organised, wherever you may be travelling to (pg 62). Mini breaks or even just a day by the seaside are all we sometimes need to recharge our batteries and to make the most of brighter weather. On page 45, we’ve selected our favourite coastal walk across an unspoilt stretch of Northumberland, a county steeped in history. We hope it encourages you to get out and explore! And for those preferring to relax, our book extract, following an intrepid sailor’s journey as he circumnavigates the globe, provides the perfect armchair adventure. After all, spring is not all about escaping. As some of us turn to spring cleaning, daring to bring out lightweight bedding and stow away winter throws, our feature on creating a coastal interior shows you how to revive rooms with seaside touches, without the need for re-decoration (pg 24). For food lovers, we demystify the sometimes daunting prospect of preparing and cooking Lobster (pg 38) whilst our ultimate cocktail recipes bring some indulgence to the lighter evenings and entertaining on land and at sea (pg 32). So whether you will be at home, at sea, or travelling to the coast this spring, we hope that Ocean View brings you some welcome ideas and entertainment for your life by, or on the water.
Samantha Scott-Jeffries Editor OCEAN VIEW 3
CONTENTS
SPRING 2012
OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...
Spring 2012
FREE
3. 6. 11.
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Cover Image: © photo Gilles Martin Raget From Eilean: A Classic Yacht by May Fife Kohn and François Chevalier, published by Flammarion, 2011
Ocean View Magazine Editor: Samantha Scott-Jeffries s.scott-jeffries@parkview-publishing.co.uk Editorial Director: Grant Scott g.scott@parkview-publishing.co.uk Production Design: Harriet Weston h.weston@parkview-publishing.co.uk Media Director/Advertising Sales: Linda Grace l.grace@parkview-publishing.co.uk Managing Director/Publisher: Lee Mansfield l.mansfield@parkview-publishing.co.uk Sales Director: Simon Skinner s.skinner@parkview-publishing.co.uk Accounts: Clare Fermor/ Amelia Wellings: c.fermor@parkview-publishing.co.uk a.wellings@parkview-publishing.co.uk Published by Life Media Group Park View House 19 The Avenue, Eastbourne, East Sussex, BN21 3YD 01323 411 601 Printed by Gemini Press Unit A1 Dolphin Way, Shoreham-by-Sea, West Sussex BN43 6NZ 01273 464884 All material in this publication is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The views expressed in Ocean View Magazine do not necessarily represent the view of Life Media Group LTD. Every care is taken in compiling the contents but the publishers of Ocean View Magazine assume no reponsibilty for any damage, loss or injury arising from the participation in any offers, competitions or advertisment contained within Ocean View Magazine. All prices featured in Ocean View Magazine are correct at the time of going to press. Copyright Life Media Group 2012 ©
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16. 24. 32. 38. 45. 51. 56. 62.
Welcome: An invitation to explore what’s inside our second issue of Ocean View. Portfolio: Dip into the beautiful book which charts the meticulous restoration of a very special, classic yacht. Smooth Sailing: Are you thinking of booking a luxury cruise holiday? Don’t miss our experts’ essential guide to getting the most from your escape on the water. Fashion: Discover the story of Sebago, the brand behind the iconic deck shoes worn by Kate Middleton, Justin Bieber and lovers of the sea. Seaside Living: Bring a coastal feel to your home using nautical references and beach ephemera to create an interior with shore appeal. Irresistible Tipples: Make, shake and stir your way to perfect cocktails by an award winning bar tender. Cracking the Lobster: Is fear making you miss out on preparing our most luxurious seafood? Find out what cooks should know in order to serve delicious lobster dishes. Coasting: Inspired by the BBC series ‘Coast’ we bring you an unspoilt trail across Northumberland to explore. One Man’s Adventure: Read about the epic journey of Les Powles who decided to circumnavigate the globe twice, after just eight hours of sailing experience. Buyer’s Guide: Holidays start with packing. Our round-up of must have luggage makes stylish work of the task. Right Plaice, Right Time: Nothing can quite match the taste of fresh local fish. Read the personal food memories of a self confessed fish-aholic.
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Portfolio
Ocean View previews the book that charts the fascinating adventure and 40,000 man hours of repair that it took to restore the classic yacht Eilean.
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Š GIlles Martin Raget
PORTFOLIO Eilean, a classic 72 foot Bermudan Ketch was designed by William Fife in 1936. Yet the iconic yacht, which once featured in the Duran Duran music video ‘Rio’ in 1982, was found practically abandoned in Antigua in 2006, where she had become a mast-less wreck. Panerai, the luxury Italian watchmaker who poetically produced their first timepiece in the same year in which Eilean was built by Fife, rescued the boat when its’ CEO Angelo Bonati, a keen sailor, fell in love with her. Panerai, who are renowned for their long history associated with the sea, yachting and traditional sailing culture, undertook the meticulous restoration of Eilean, which took two and a half years, passion and determination, to complete. A glorious celebration of Eilean’s journey; from her complete re-crafting to competing in the 2011 Panerai Classic Yacht Challenge events, is skillfully charted for boating enthusiasts, aficionados and specialists within the pages of this book. Illustrated with archival documents, punctuated by specially commissioned photographs and historical plans, it navigates the reader through the highlights of her adventure and incredible journey.
TOP RIGHT & BELOW RIGHT: Wooden blocks, restored hatches identical to the originals, varnished cap rail, classic teak deck, and bronze winches: the authenticity of the restoration of this great ketch was of paramount importance. OPPOSITE: A wooden hull may look spotless when finished but during assembly, thousands of holes are visible, waiting to receive the rivets fixing the planking onto the steel frames and for the temporary nailing of the teak deck boards onto the marine plywood.
Eilean: A Classic Yacht, by May Fife Kohn and François Chevalier, Published by Flammarion, 2011, £80.00
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Customer Service 0800 294 3373 | JosephRibkoff.com | Official designer for
CRUISING: A GUIDE TO HOLIDAYS AFLOAT
Smooth Sailing
In 2010, one in every ten package holidays booked was a cruise. So is a holiday on the water the perfect choice for you? We consulted an independent expert on everything you need to know, and ensure that your holiday afloat is a breeze. Booking a cruise holiday can be both an exciting and a mind boggling task. Whilst the options have never been so varied, with so many tastes and age groups catered for, cruise holidays, it can be argued, have never appealed to so many. So how do you ensure that you choose the perfect experience for you? What can you expect from the new cruise ships? What is life really like on board? How do you navigate the crusing culture of tipping and choosing the right cabin? The questions for those seeking the perfect holiday on the water are as endless as the potential destinations. We therefore decided to consult an independent expert for their tips on how to make all of your cruise adventures successful experiences.
Before you book: Frequently Asked Questions
outside of the ship so you will have a view outside or have a balcony. Whatever cabin type you choose, all passengers have full use of all the facilities on board the ship. Outside cabins and balcony cabins cost more than inside cabins and are usually larger in size. What is a guaranteed cabin? When you book the cruise the price you pay will depend on the category of cabin so this will be guaranteed. Some Cruise Lines will assign the actual cabin number at the time of booking while others will assign when you check in. Entertainment and most onboard facilities and activities. So break the price down to a ‘per day’ cost and you can begin to appreciate the great value available.
Activities & Facilities on Board This can vary depending on the Cruise Line but most ships have a wide selection of day time activities which range from fully equipped fitness gyms, exercise and dance classes some even have rock climbing walls. For the less active passengers there are spas, cookery classes as well as the decks where you can relax and read a good book. The activities are endless and you can do as much or as little as you choose.
Dress Code As a general guideline cruise ships class formal for men as a dinner jacket or dark suit, with tie and for the ladies an evening gown or cocktail dress. But don’t buy a dinner jacket just for the trip, even on the most formal of ships; a dark suit and tie are fine for the dressiest occasions plus many ships offer dinner jacket rental services. Informal for men is long trousers, a collared shirt and tie and for the ladies a dress or smart attire. Casual / relaxed for a man is long trousers with tie optional and for ladies a more casual dress or outfit.
Cabins - Inside vs Outside An inside cabin means you have a cabin on the inside of the ship which has no window or port hole, whilst an outside cabin is on the
Passports If you are a British Citizen you will need to have 6 months validity on your passport after your date of return. Children will need their OCEAN VIEW 11
CRUISING: A GUIDE TO HOLIDAYS AFLOAT
“Formal evenings on ships can be grand but you don’t need to rush out to buy black tie, a dark suit is perfectly acceptable on most ships.” own passports. British Visitor Passports are no longer valid. British subject passport holders’ requirements may differ so always check prior to travel and ensure you obtain all the necessary documentation as you could be refused travel without it. Formal evenings Formal evenings are all part of the fun of cruising, especially the Captain’s Cocktail Party. It is acceptable for gentlemen to wear a dark suit instead of a dinner jacket and ladies to wear cocktail dresses. Other suggestions to ensure a stress-free cruise The most important things to decide is the right Cruise Line, ship size and itinerary- also consider the ship’s dining options and seating arrangements. If travelling as a family check what children’s facilities and activities are on board. Alternatively if you do not want to be surrounded by children check which operator offers adult only cruises. Before you travel, find out how many formal and casual nights there are onboard the cruise so you can plan your packing. Check your passport validity and make sure that any visas have been applied for in plenty of time. When arriving on the ship get your bearings, familiarise yourself with the ship’s layout and your cabin location. Decide which excursions and spa treatments you would like and book them at the beginning of the cruise so you are not disappointed if they get fully booked. Then just relax and enjoy the cruise doing as much or as little as you like...
quickest route to your cabin as the ships are vast in size and you will probably walk endless miles in the first few days finding your way around. Drink prices The costs of drinks on board are normally lower than on land since ships have access to duty free alcohol. Dining rooms normally have extensive and reasonably priced wine lists but some Cruise Lines will also add a cover charge of approximately 15% to the bill. Some ships also sell duty free wine and alcohol which you may be able to drink in your cabin; however this may not be taken into the dining or public areas. This protects the bar sales which is a substantial source of onboard revenue. When purchasing duty free alcohol either on the ship or in port this will be stored for you until the last day of the cruise then returned to you prior to disembarkation. What about tipping? Tipping is a matter of individual preference and most Cruise Lines now publish guidelines in their brochures. A general rule is to plan for a total of approximately £4 - £7 per person per day. Some Cruise Lines will automatically add gratuities to your onboard account which can be adjusted if required when the account is paid at the end of the cruise. Gratuities are sometimes included in the cruise fare, normally those at the luxury end of the market, where no tipping is permitted – at least that is the theory!
Life on Board
Extra charges on board Although all the entertainment and food is included in the price you do have to be aware of some additional expenses that you need to budget for as these could soon add up. Shore excursions are bookable prior to your cruise and also when you have boarded and the price will vary depending on the excursion. Drinks on board during the cruise, although they are reasonably priced will mount up and also remember 10–15% can be added for wine ordered in the restaurant. Additional costs could include laundry, spa treatments, alternative dining, internet access, medical costs and duty free shopping both on board and in destinations.
Finding your feet (especially on large ships) When you first arrive in your cabin after embarkation your luggage will probably not be delivered for a few hours, so you should take this opportunity to find your bearings on board the ship. You will have been given a detailed map of the ship when you checked in so using this you should start to find the location of different decks, restaurants, bars, entertainment, pools etc. It is also wise to find the
Communication with the outside world Most ships have a daily newsletter with news, headlines, selected stock quotes and sports results and many cabins are equipped with televisions and have satellite or cellular telephones. New ships all have the technology to enable passengers to use their own personal mobile telephone with the cost being charged to the mobile account. Beware this can be expensive. The best and cheapest way to keep in touch with family and
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CRUISING: A GUIDE TO HOLIDAYS AFLOAT
friends is to use e-mail as most ships have an internet cafe. Alternatively send e-mails while in port as this would be a lot less expensive than onboard. Paying your onboard account It is now normal for all Cruise Lines to operate cash-free cruising so all purchases and expenditure will be added to your personal account. When you board the ship an imprint of a credit card will be taken to ensure you can cover any onboard expenses. Throughout the cruise you sign for everything. Some cruise ships have the facility to check the balance of your account on the television in the cabin. All cruise ships will deliver a detailed statement to your cabin the day prior to disembarkation. Some Cruise Lines may discontinue their ‘cashless’ system on the last day of the cruise, some may also add a currency conversion service charge to your credit card if not in the same currency as the Cruise Line. “If you don’t have a credit card the Cruise Line may request that you lodge a cash deposit prior to embarkation. This may need to be topped up if used up during the cruise, and any unspent amount will be refunded at the end of your cruise.” Disembarkation Disembarkation can be the most tiring and seemingly rushed part of the cruise. An informal talk on customs, immigration and disembarkation procedures will have been given the previous day by the cruise director and customs forms given out to complete. Include any duty free items purchased either aboard or ashore (keep all receipts in case a customs officer asks for them) and complete coloured tags, which will also have been distributed. The night before your disembarkation you must place all luggage, apart from hand luggage, outside the cabin door before 2.00am. This enables it to be collected and off loaded on arrival the next day which can take between two to three hours. No passenger is allowed to leave the ship until all the baggage has been offloaded. Breakfast is normally served early as the ship will dock between 7.00am and 8.00am and, as with many hotels, ships have a fast check out procedure as they only have approximately four hours to prepare the ship for the next passengers boarding. Disembarking can either be organised by colour coded tags so about 100 passengers can be disembarked at a time or the cruise ship may ask you to vacate your cabin at a certain time and wait in one of the public areas. Your first stop will be at immigration and then onto the baggage holding area where you will identify your luggage and take it to the customs area. There you may need to produce your duty free purchases and receipts if requested. After clearing customs you are then able to make your way to your selected transport home.
The Inside Track
Our experts reveal 5 key tips for getting the most value from your cruise 1. ‘Family cabins’ come with four berths, but only one
bathroom and only two storage cabinets. You can cruise very cost effectively by maximising the occupancy of your cabin, but remember to pack light!
2. Bathrobes that are provided are never changed during your cruise. Ask your cabin steward to change your robe if required.
3. Reducing or changing the ‘automatic gratuities’ charged to your cabin account on some large cruise ships will require you to provide the reason to why you want to reduce them at reception. Don’t be intimidated – gratuities are at your discretion and if you don’t believe that they are justified or earned then explain this.
4. ‘Guaranteed Exchange rate’. This is a rate some Cruise
Lines use if the currency of payment is different from the ships currency. The guaranteed rate can be higher than the rate quoted by the banks, making purchases and settling your cabin account higher than expected. Most UK ‘no fly’ cruises are on ships whose standard onboard currency is Sterling. For those that are not, or for spending money on excursions, it is often better to purchase your currency in advance.
5. On arrival in your cabin a bottle of water is on display
for your ‘convenience’ which will then cost you £3.50. Also a waiter handing out drinks when you arrive will charge you £4.50 for a drink full of ice worth £1.00. Take a couple of bottles of water with you for use whilst embarking (which can take some time) and for immediate use in your cabin that first drink is often the most expensive!
If this has whetted your appetite for researching your own cruise holiday, read more from the book from which the above advice was adapted: ‘The UK Guide to No Fly Cruising’ by Marc Jones and Ernie Skalsky, which is published by Cruise Experts Limited. Ocean View readers can order a free copy of the book (costing £9.99 on Amazon) by going to www.uk2ukcruiseguide.co.uk
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SEBAGO: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND
Man the Decks
Worn by lovers of fashion and the sea - from Justin Bieber to Kate Middleton the quality, craftsmanship and classic style of Sebago shoes have endured for more than 40 years. Here we explore the story behind the brand that created Docksides, the iconic footwear that has become synonymous with the term ‘deck shoe’.
ABOVE: A Sebago handsewer perfecting their craft
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‘We never expected that Sebago Docksides would become the icon of marine footwear that they are today’, say the brand behind the enduring design. The creation of their classic deck shoe, was simply an extension and culmination of everything that the company and its craftsmen had until that point, been working towards, and still hold true today.
This selection of Docksides (deďŹ ned by one colour on the upper) and Spinnaker (with two colours) for Spring/Summer 2012, show the variety of colourways in which the ranges are now produced. Docksides for the UK market are available in 20 colourways, Spinnakers, 10, with as many as 300 options in the combined global market.
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Sebago launched in 1946 in Maine, New England. Dan Wellehan Sr, the owner of five independent shoe stores across the state, first came up with the idea of manufacturing shoes to keep his shops adequately stocked when consumers exhibited signs of increased spending and new found optimism at the end of the second world war. He joined forces with Joseph Cordeau and William Beaudoin, two other ‘footwear veterans’, who were passionate about creating a brand to reflect the spirit, sense of place and heritage of New England and its people. Their shoes, they decided, would be “strong, elegant and fit for life in, on and around the water.” They would also be handmade by craftsmen dedicated to their art. Beaudoin patented a mocassain Welt construction, which enabled skilled cobblers to hand sew their original shoe designs without any guide holes, making them comfortable, hardwearing and giving credence to the brands’ original name Sebago Moc Company. ‘Moc’ stood for mocassain, whilst ‘Sebago’ was taken from the Sebago lake, an impressive stretch of local water, which had been given its name by the resident Abenaki Indians. The shoes, from the outset, were timeless, handcrafted designs, with every pair given an equal care in their construction as the last. The first design was a classic Penny Loafer, styled on Indian moccassins. The skilled cobblers (called Cordwainers) were armed with a razor sharp awl and dual needles threaded with waxy nylon thread, with which they would feed holes through the leather, crossing back and forth. Every stich was then handknotted. The technique is still used by Sebago craftsmen who claim that its effectiveness still “defies modern technology even to this day.”
ABOVE AND OPPOSITE: These classic Docksides are a work in progress in Sebago’s Dominican Republic factory.
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SEBAGO: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND
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SEBAGO: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND
“Skilled cobblers were armed with razor sharp awl and dual needles with which they would feed holes through the leather”
Whilst priding themselves on their traditional values of heritage and craftsmanship, Sebago Moc was an ambitious company. The brand was soon stocked in other retail outlets and by 1950 had achieved sales of $1,000,000. To reach their goal of manufacturing 2,000 pairs of shoes a day, they built a factory within commuting distance of neighbouring towns in 1952 to enable the raw materials they required for their shoes to be delivered from all over the US, to attract the 300 employees they would employ and to enable the efficient delivery of their product. By 1954 the company was able to celebrate selling their 1,000,000th pair of shoes. The 1960s saw the launch of Jolly Rogers, the company’s hand sewn Penny loafer for women. The founder’s son Dan Wellehan Jr joined the company and the brand began to be distributed throughout Europe. Legend has it that a man called Sr Francisco Gaudier, having bought a pair of Sebago Classic Loafers in Switerland jumped straight on a plane to Maine to sign a contract to distribute the shoes throughout the continent. The shoes were unveiled at Semaine du Cuir, an international exhibition in Paris. In 1970 Sebago launched their own-brand boat shoe Docksides. Made from leather, Docksides were a protective alternative to the popular canvas boat shoe, designed to grip the deck of a boat with non-marking soles, yet retain their style on the street. The shoes, were of course hand sewn in their trademark moccassin style which wrapped the foot in a single piece of form-fitting leather for comfort and durability. They were fitted with functional rawhide laces and non-corrosive brass eyelets, whilst their non-marking soles were slip-resistant, making
LEFT: A craftsmen works on completing a pair of tan leather Docksides by hand.
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the tranquil island of
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SEBAGO: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND
“The shoes wrapped the foot in a single piece of form fitting leather, for comfort and durability”
them a practical choice for sailors. On finding the name Docksides by Sebago Moc too wordy, however, the company decided to become known simply as Sebago. As sales of Docksides boomed throughout the ‘80s with the demand for an American preppy look that had originated in university and college campuses, Sebago pushed production to two million pairs of shoes a year. The company responded by developing its fashion ranges and celebrated their nautical heritage by becoming the first US corporate sponsor of a twelve metre America’s Cup Race in 1983. The following year Sebago were the corporate sponsor of the US Olympic sailing team, supplying the team with yachting footwear, whilst in the 1990s they became the official sponsor of the America’s Cup contender ‘Defender’ and supporters of the Young America team in their bid to win the Louis Vuitton cup in 1995, again showing their commitment to their seafaring passion and tradition. Sebago were bought by Wolverine World Wide Inc in 2003, yet whilst their new premises in Maine accommodated some 800 employees, these included sons and daughters of the founding craftsmen, with skills handed down through the generations. Growth since has included the introduction of clothing to the company, with collections based on aspects of New England nautical life; from fashion to high performance. In 2010, the company celebrated six decades of craftsmanship and authentic, timeless design. They’ve stayed true to their New England roots, their commitment to life on and around the water, yet, as from the outset, Sebago have continued to move with fashion and ambition. Still championing handmade, quality footwear, they still make the Classic Penny Loafer and handsewn Docksides in the very same way as they were originally and carefully crafted.
ABOVE & LEFT: Docksides from the Spring/Summer 2012 collection are still made with a geniune moccasin construction that wraps the foot in a single piece of leather.
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SEASIDE LIVING - COASTAL EPHEMERA
Shore Appeal
When creating a home with a coastal feel, the devil is in the detail. Nautical artwork and antiques, collections with sea-faring themes and surf-polished pebbles, shells and coral can create a maritime feel, without the need for redecoration. The increasing popularity of coastal living has resulted in a growing interest in elegant, low-key interiors that reflect the relaxed simplicity of shoreside dwellings. Indeed, coastal chic is now taking a richly deserved turn in the spotlight and the typically tasteful design of coastal interiors is as alluring as it is universal. Coastal style has evolved from the myriad different ways in which seaside-dwellers have integrated the surrounding environment into their interiors. If you want to achieve this in your own home, big windows and sliding doors are highly desirable – as is a minimalist design scheme, which makes it possible for you to appreciate fully the views of sea, sand and sky. Paring back 24 OCEAN VIEW
the furniture in your home also provides a calming reminder of the wide-open spaces beyond your window, while stripped wooden floors, streamlined storage and a unified colour scheme create a soothing, well-ordered impression. A pale, watery palette and minimalist furnishings in natural materials such as wood and stone will reinforce the simple appeal of coastal architecture, regardless of whether you live in a seaside cottage or colonial-style villa. Natural materials that reflect the seashore come into their own in coastal interiors. Driftwood furniture and tongue-and-groove wall cladding create a breezy, barefoot feel, while scrubbed flagstones recall the smooth
OPPOSITE An open-fronted cabinet with 24 compartments makes an ideal showcase for a colourful mixture of shells in shades ranging from delicate silver to orange, green, purple and white. The dark wood helps to highlight the luminosity of the display pieces.
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SEASIDE LIVING - COASTAL EPHEMERA
“Simple finds such as rosy sunset shells, textural scallops and silvery-green limpets can be freely picked up on beaches around the world - and are just as attractive as their more rarefied cousins”
sheen of surf-polished pebbles. To enhance the look, opt for a coastal palette: aqua blues, sea greens and oyster greys are ideal for achieving a watery look, while neutrals in shades of sand and shell recall the hues of the seashore. The occasional bolt of brilliant colour also works well in seaside interiors – scarlet, yellow and turquoise are all effective. Establishing a sense of relaxed informality is one of the joys of coastal living. Although the seaside look is cool and classy, there is nothing precious about its decorative style. Instead, elegant eclecticism rules – with huge sofas, paint-flaked armoires, scrubbed tables and the odd chandelier set alongside faded kelims, rustic log baskets and nautical paintings propped up against the wall. Decorative accessories, which take their cue from various coastal influences, are similarly spontaneous. Indeed, anything goes on the display front – from a massive model yacht in front of the fireplace to a display of straw hats randomly arranged on a wall. Fishing tackle, fossils and feathers are also popular, while the natural beauty of shells is unrivalled in terms of decorative embellishment Coastal style is not only for people who live by the sea. Whatever type of home you have, from a high-rise apartment to a cottage in the country, you can establish a beachy feel. Display & Embellishment The oceans are a source of countless beautiful items that can be put to decorative use, but pebbles, shells and coral should 26 OCEAN VIEW
be acquired only with proper regard for the environment. Collections of antique shells and pieces of coral are acceptable, of course, but a hoard of exotic marine treasures is not needed to create an arresting display. Simple finds such as rosy sunset shells, textural scallops and silvery-green limpets can be freely picked up on beaches around the world - and are just as attractive as their more rarefied cousins.
of whelks or cockles are a perennial favourite, while lampshades fringed with tiny pheasant shells add a touch of frivolity. For sparkle and shine, include mother-ofpearl boxes or photograph frames in your decorative arrangements or scour antiques markets for 19th-century mirrors with shellencrusted frames.
Intrinsic Beauty
Coastal homes also benefit from nautical references. Storm lanterns, barometers, telescopes, binoculars – even a pair of paintflaked oars – will introduce a seafaring note, while sun-faded flags and old-fashioned maps or shipping charts offer a similarly effective maritime feel. Model yachts are much-favoured ornaments in coastal homes, helping to brighten up fireplaces, mantelpieces and bookshelves. Boats made out of driftwood also look attractive, while reclaimed signage or a souvenir ship in a bottle adds a kitsch element. If your home needs an injection of colour, a display case filled with medals on brightly striped ribbons will do the trick, while a discarded lifebelt or faded orange buoy are perfect for jazzing up exterior spaces. Not surprisingly, fish images and motifs are very popular among seaside-dwellers. Whether you want dolphins dancing across your duvet or swordfish on your splashback, there will be a company with the products to satisfy your needs. Brightly coloured floats, reels, flies, lures and other fishing tackle also look good in coastal homes, introducing a gritty, workmanlike feel that makes a
Since pebbles and shells are so intrinsically beautiful, you can display them with a minimum of fuss. A line of smooth grey stones is a great way to embellish a plain windowsill, for example, while a cheap goldfish bowl filled with cowrie shells is similarly alluring. Shoreline treasures are also eye-catching when arranged on a table or tray, particularly if you leave enough space between the objects to create a sense of symmetry. Feathers, starfish and strands of dried seaweed can be used to add texture and form to display schemes, while items such as driftwood and fossils are easily fashioned into shelves, lamp bases and bookends. Delicate glass shelves – or cabinets with glass doors – are one of the most effective ways of displaying marine finds. Not only does glass complement their fragility, but its light-reflecting qualities also enhance the luminosity of shells and coral, so that they glow in the sun. Tidal treasures also make excellent embellishments for furniture and furnishings. Drawer handles in the form
Nautical References
A felt cushion designed by Jan Constantine introduces a nautical edge, while contrasting fabrics look good together on a plain sofa. The sailors’ uniforms pressed behind glass frames reinforce the maritime theme.
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SEASIDE LIVING - COASTAL EPHEMERA
nice contrast to softer details such as sunbleached linens and delicate coral sprays. Nautical artwork – from sepia ship prints to modern seascapes – is a must in coastal homes. Prop pictures on a mantelpiece or shelves and arrange shoreline finds around them. A faded yacht-print surrounded by surf-smoothed stones and textured ceramics in beachy shades is ideal for creating an impression of casual chic, while chunky box frames make an informal display case for starfish, shells and other marine objects. When hanging pictures, remember that frames of different sizes look great grouped together as long as the content and the colouring are roughly the same. If you want to create a montage of seaside images, it’s worth abiding by a few rules. For example, feature no more than three colours. Keep your montage free from the constraints of symmetry to achieve a mood of relaxed spontaneity. Overlap pictures to give an informal feel, and juxtapose close-up shots with some full-sized images. Although creating an attractive montage is not as easy as it looks, trial and error will almost certainly yield successful results. Raffia baskets, sun hats, children’s buckets and spades and other beach essentials can also be used decoratively in coastal interiors. A wooden tub filled with parasols, shrimping nets and beach balls will enliven a hallway, for example, while a surfboard with brightly coloured detailing or a wooden peg rail for towels cheers up an outdoor space. You could hang bunting across doorways or make a decorative feature of straw hats by hanging them all together on randomly placed hooks.
LEFT: To make their visitors feel relaxed and at home, David Flint Wood and India Hicks have installed a three dimensional mixed-media ‘scrap wall’ in the writing area of their guest house.
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SEASIDE LIVING - COASTAL EPHEMERA
How to get Ship Shape Inspired by the interiors over the last four pages, but not sure how to emulate the look? Suppliers of nautical antiques, maritime artefacts and ephemera make for ripe hunting grounds. Whilst auctions, outlets and online dealers can be found worldwide, Ocean View brings you a selection of stockists, specialists and outlets to enable you to start the hunt for your own unique collection in the UK. Art Marine Deals in limited edition prints and paintings by marine artists, by appointment at their gallery close to Shaftestbury and online. www.artmarine.co.uk Bonhams Holds specialist Rivercraft and Maritime Art Auctions. www.bonhams.com Charles Miller Ltd Presents auctions of maritime and scientific models, instruments, objects & fine art. www.charlesmillerltd.com Gerald Lee Maritime Books Sells a wide range of second hand naval and maritime books, as well as maritime memorabilia and ephemera. An online catalogue is available. www.leemaritimebooks.com Jacobson Marine Antiques Deals in ship models, nautical paintings and prints, rope work, ocean lighthouse and life-saving memorabilia, navigational instruments and more. www.marineantiques.com The Nautical Antique Centre Currently stocks over 1,000 items to do with ships and the sea, including World War two binoculars, compasses, paintings, ships lights and equipment. www.nauticalantiques.org Partridge & Bray A marine auction will be held to coincide with the 100 year anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic, at this auction house in Liverpool this year. www.theliverpoolsaleroom.co.uk
ABOVE: Similarly themed nautical paintings make a dramatic impact when displayed against a combination wall of roughly hewn stone and smooth wood panelling. An upright ďŹ shing rod acts as a balance to the horizontal lines of the pictures.
Coastal Style, by Sally Hayden and Alice Whately, with photographs by Paul Massey, Published by Ryland Peters & Small, www.rylandpeters.com Reader Offer - Coastal Style will be available to readers of Ocean View for the special price of ÂŁ17.99 including postage & packaging (rrp19.99) by telephoning Macmillan Direct on 01256 302 699 and quoting the reference GLR 6KW.
OCEAN VIEW 31
IRRESISTIBLE TIPPLES
Shaken, Stirred and All Mixed Up
Cocktails have always been synonymous with glamour and sophistication, yet they needn’t be complex to master. Here, award winning bartender Ben Reed demystifies the techniques, equipment and recipes you’ll need to make classic cocktail recipes at home or on board, some of which, have a seafaring origin.
The origin of the word ‘cocktail’ is steeped in myth with a number of explanations for its derivation. Among my favourites is the story of a publican who, during American War of Independence, lost one of his finest fighting cockerels. He was inconsolable until the day an army lieutenant came riding into town with the bird. The publican mixed up a special concoction and served it to the soldier, toasting him with phrase ‘to the cock’s tail’ (for returning the bird with all the feathers in its tail intact). Although many cocktails we regard as ‘classic’ were invented before the 20th century, they came into their own in the 1900s. With palates and spirits growing more refined, cocktails were created that celebrated the base spirit rather than hid it. Social circumstances determined how people drank. Prohibition taught Americans the joy of light, Cuban style cocktails like the Daquiri and the Great Depression saw 32 OCEAN VIEW
the emergence of the Tiki Movement in California with drinks such as the Mai Tai. Today the true classic cocktail is one that has withstood the test of time. The preparation methods are often contentious - think of martini with the ubiquitous ‘shaken’ or ‘stirred’ argument. Invariably, and this is the joy with timeless cocktails, when a cocktail can be made in a number of ways, a new title is often bestowed upon it and a new life given! As cocktails evolve, we should always cherish the classic, as it gives us the base to both toast the past and mix for the future.
Equipment & Techniques Equipment
Any aspiring bartender should acquire a measure (jigger) and a shaker. The modern dual-measure jigger measures both 50ml and 25ml (a double and a single measure). The
barspoon with its long spiralling handle, is useful for stirring drinks and for the gentle pouring required for layered drinks. The ‘wrong,’ flat end can be used for muddling or crushing herbs etc. A muddler, a wooden pestle for mixing or crushing sugar cubes, limes and herbs, and a bartender’s friend are also handy. A mixing glass with strainer is used for making drinks that are stirred, not shaken. Other accessories that are useful: an ice bucket, ice tongs, and a juice squeezer.
Glasses
The traditional martini glass is a familiar icon, with its open face and slim stem. The cocktail glass is similar to the martini glass but with a slightly rounded bowl. The rocks or old-fashioned glass is a squat, straightsided glass. The highball and the collins glasses come in various sizes but they are all tall, slim glasses designed to keep a
IRRESISTIBLE RECIPES
OCEAN VIEW 33
IRRESISTIBLE TIPPLES
long drink fresh and cold. The small, sturdy shot glass, is designed with one purpose: getting the drink from one’s glass into one’s mouth with minimal fuss. The champagne flute is perfect for keeping the sparkle in your champagne cocktails. It should be elegant and long-stemmed with a narrow rim to enhance the delicacy of the drink.
Techniques
There are six basic ways of creating a cocktail: building, blending, shaking, stirring over ice, layering and muddling. Whichever method you are using, measure the ingredients accurately to get the balance of tastes right. The process of building a
cocktail just requires adding the measured ingredients to the right glass, with ice, and giving it a quick stir before serving. The blending method involves pouring all the ingredients into a blender, adding crushed ice and flicking the switch. Using a shaker is the most enjoyable way to mix a cocktail, both for you and your guests. Add the ingredients to the shaker and fill it with ice. The shaking movement should be sharp but do keep your hands on both parts of the shaker or at least a finger on the cap. Drinks containing egg white, cream and juices should be shaken for slightly longer than the usual ten seconds. Stirring is the best method when you want to retain the
clarity and strength of the spirits in cocktails such as a Manhattan. Use an ice-filled mixing glass and stir carefully to avoid chipping the ice and diluting the drink. Frost your serving glasses by leaving them in the freezer for an hour before use. Layering is used for drinks such as the White Russian. With the flat end of a barspoon resting on the surface of the base spirit, pour each of the remaining spirits in turn down the handle of the spoon. This keeps the ingredients separate and allows them to be tasted one at a time. Muddling involves using the flat end of a barspoon or a muddler to mix or crush ingredients such as fruit or herbs to gently release the flavours.
Our Favourite Cocktail Recipes Harvey Wallbanger
Brandy Alexander
The story goes that Harvey, a Californian surfer who had performed particularly badly in an important contest, visited his local bar to drown his sorrows. He ordered his usual screwdriver - only to decide that it wasn’t strong enough for what he had in mind. Scanning the bar for something to boost his drink, his eyes fell on the distinctively shaped Galliano bottle, a shot of which was then added to the drink as a float. Needless to say, his resultant state after a few of these was so rocky that, as he searched for the door on the way out, he bounced off onto the street. Harvey Wallbanger, they called him.
The Brandy Alexander is the perfect after-dinner cocktail, luscious and seductive and great for chocolate lovers. It’s important though, to get the proportions right so that the brandy stands out as the major investor.
Ingredients
Shake all the ingredients over ice and strain into a frosted martini glass. Garnish with a sprinkle of nutmeg.
50ml vodka 12.5ml Galliano fresh orange juice orange slice
Ingredients 50 ml brandy 12.5ml créme de cacao (dark and white) 12.5ml double cream nutmeg
Method
Method
Pour a large measure of vodka into a highball glass filled with ice. Fill the glass almost to the top with orange juice and pour in a float of Galliano. Garnish with an orange slice and serve with a swizzle stick and straw. 34 OCEAN VIEW
OPPOSITE: Brandy Alexander
OCEAN VIEW 35
IRRESISTIBLE TIPPLES
Mojito The Mojito with its alluring mix of mint and rum, invariably whisks its drinker away to warmer climes. Championed by Hemingway in the 1940s and wildly popular in Miami for years, this Cuban concoction can now be found gracing the menus of discerning cocktail bars worldwide.
Ingredients
50 ml golden rum 5 sprigs of mint 2 dashes of sugar syrup a dash of fresh lime juice soda water
Method
Put the mint into a highball, add the run, lime juice and sugar syrup and press with a barspoon until the aroma of the mint is released. Add the crushed ice and stir vigorously until the mixture and the mint is spread evenly. Top with soda water and stir again. Serve with straws.
ABOVE: Pink Gin OPPOSITE: Mojito
Pink Gin Pink Gin is a thoroughly British cocktail which deserves a premium gin. Although it originated as a medicinal potion in the British Navy, Pink Gin became one of the smartest drinks in 1940s London.
Ingredients
50ml gin a dash of Angostura bitters
Method
Rinse a frosted sherry or martini glass with Angostura bitters, add chilled gin and serve 36 OCEAN VIEW
The Cocktail Hourby Ben Reed, with photography by William Lingwood, is published by Ryland Peters & Small www.rylandpeters.com Reader Offer: The Cocktail Hour is available to readers of Ocean View for the special price of ÂŁ5.99 including postage & packaging (rrp ÂŁ6.99) by telephoning Macmillan Direct on 01256 302 699 and quoting the reference GLR 4AX.
Pink Gin
OCEAN VIEW 37
SEAFOOD: THE ESSENTIAL LOBSTER
Cracking the Lobster
Are you scared of cooking a lobster? Elisabeth Townsend reveals what cooks should know about the preparation and cooking of the crustacean, along with a brief insight into its history, which is as rich as the luxurious meat itself. All designed so that you can embrace rather than revere the most luxurious of seafoods. Humans and lobsters have a long history together. Long before we knew much about this crustacean, lobsters found their way into artistic creations as a revered shellfish, symbol, status or otherwise. Spiny lobsters adorn a fifteenth-century BC Egyptian temple in an aquatic scene depicting new, fascinating animals and plants from an expedition down the Red Sea along the coast of East Africa. As early as the first century BC, spiny lobsters appeared in a mosaic floor in the dining room of ancient Pompeii and in Virgil’s Aeneid, as Palinurus, the helmsman of the Trojan fleet. They are part of a mosaic floor in the dining room of a Pompeian house depicting how the floor would look after the diners had finished – leaving the inedible shells and bones ‘dropped under the tables’. The world’s love affair with lobster began out of necessity. It wasn’t a mutual affection though: it was as lopsided as unrequited love. Humans needed to eat and the crustacean was often within easy reach by hand, spear, long hook, baskets and later nets and traps. But the shellfish eventually became more than just grub – its status shifted from vital protein to pauper’s food to cultural icon. This relationship has always been complex. When lobsters were abundant
38 OCEAN VIEW
many coastal dwellers disdained them. But their popularity with wealthy urban diners drove innovations that nearly annihilated the stocks. It was through these innovations and mass marketing that lobster ended up on dinner plates in Tokyo, Japan and Dubuque, Iowa. Clearly, this affaire d’amour isn’t a tawdry fling. It’s a long-term relationship.
What Cooks Should Know
Those looking for the most delectable lobster preparation might turn to Boston chef Jasper White, who agrees that using ocean water produces ‘the briny-sweet taste of the sea’, and believes in not crowding a lobster pot. White, author of Lobster at Home and one of America’s foremost chefs, wants to keep the essence of the shellfish and advises steaming rather than boiling lobsters. In his opinion, the meat is more tender when cooked more slowly with steam and the true flavour is preserved, since the steam doesn’t dilute the lobster. British chef Rick Stein takes a completely different approach to chilling and killing lobster. In his cookbook Rick Stein’s Complete Seafood he directs the cook to put the lobster in the freezer for two hours to kill it without pain and then boil it in heavily salted water – 150 g/½ cup of salt for
every 4.5 litres/10 pints of water. After dropping the lobster in the pot and bringing the water back to a boil, cook 750 g/1½ lb for fifteen minutes and 1.25 kg/2½ lb for twenty minutes. It’s not clear who first came up with the idea of putting a lobster in the freezer to kill it before cooking, but Larousse Gastronomique, a proponent of this method, credits the British Universities Federation for Animal Welfare for the inspiration. There is one additional tip that Larousse offers: after plunging the lobster head-first into a pot holding even more salted boiling water than previous suggestions (4.5 litres or 1 gallon, 5 qt for each lobster), hold it down with a wooden spoon for at least two minutes. If you’re thinking about eating a dead lobster, think again. Forget cooking any shellfish – crab, clam, lobster, mussel or oyster – that has died before you prepare it. Immediately after death lobsters begin to decay from their digestive system enzymes. So lobsters taste best cooked live. If you’re uneasy about cooking one or are in a hurry, you can buy them conveniently cooked or frozen. If you buy a cooked lobster and the meat is like ‘soft, woolly flesh’, Stein warns, it was cooked after dying.
© Gordon Parks/Library of Congress, Washington DC
A New York dockworker displays rare giant lobster claws at the Fulton fish market in 1943.
OCEAN VIEW 39
OCEAN VIEW OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...
Winter 2011/12
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SEAFOOD: THE ESSENTIAL LOBSTER
Let’s say you opt for live lobsters to prepare at home. It’s vital to purchase vigorous specimens from a trusted source on the same day you plan to cook them. It’s obvious that Jasper White lives near the coast because he suggests buying them directly from a lobster boat or a lobster co-op or company found near the ocean, ensuring fresh lobsters. Look for a bustling market that sells a lot of lobsters. White calls supermarkets the last option for procuring these shellfish because the focus usually is not on fresh, highturnovers eafood. Healthy lobsters are frisky, waving their claws and flapping their tails when pulled from the water. Of course, they do this to make killing them even harder. No matter what, avoid the ones with short or algaecovered antennae, lifeless tails or drooping claws. Don’t worry about the rubber bands or wooden pegs on the claws of American lobsters – there’s no evidence that they affect the taste and it’s safer both for cooks and their companions to leave them on. (And, since these lobsters are cannibals, they may try to eat their dinner mates). White advocates buying the hardestshelled lobster. He suggests shaking it tenderly to see if it ‘rattles’, which indicates that it’s soft rather than the preferred meaty texture. But he admonishes the cook to be flexible in choosing quality over size, especially since he believes lobsters taste best up to 2.25 kg (5 lb). How long can you keep a lobster alive out of water, especially if you can’t cook it the same day? A common answer is one to two days. Under the best storage conditions, White believes robust ones can survive three to five days, while frail ones may die within a day. Bayer says that it depends on their stage of moult. Yet a
ABOVE: Willem Kalf, Drinking Horn with a Lobster on a Table, 1650, oil on canvas. Lobsters were included in Dutch still lifes as a symbol of luxury
new soft-shell lobster may survive a day or less, and it’s all because of its oxygencarrying pigments (soft-shelled lobsters are less efficient at extracting oxygen from moisture). It also hinges on how you store them. Bayer recommends moist newspaper or paper towels but preferably dampened with seawater in a refrigerator (although, at a pinch, tap water works). Howard Hillman, author of The New Kitchen Science, writes that they can extract oxygen from the moisture that clings to their gills, and should be kept at about 10º c (50º f), ideally on a bed of wet seaweed. Be advised that according to Hillman the sweet flavour will fade after one to two days of storage. Bayer recommends the sniff test – a fresh lobster
“The most formidable part of the American lobster is also the most delectable.”
should not smell like anything; otherwise it’s not fresh or edible. Assuming that after storing and killing your lobster, you still want to eat it, where to start? The most formidable part of the American lobster is also the most delectable. The two claws are their biggest defensive weapons that they use to protect their smooth, thin shell. The larger crusher claw can crunch opponents and other shellfish; the smaller is the more manoeuvrable pincer, ripper or cutter claw. The tail or substantially muscled abdomen contains firm, delicious meat. Flavoursome morsels in the body cavity and in the ten legs are often overlooked even by discerning diners. (Avoid the gills, inedible feather-like strands in the body.) As with any animal, lobsters also have organs, some with strange names. ‘Tomalley’ is one of the most prized parts of the lobster, savoured alone for its richness or in flavoursome sauces. But that flavour may come at a price. This mushy green material found in the body cavity, often called the OCEAN VIEW 41
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SEAFOOD: THE ESSENTIAL LOBSTER
liver, is the lobster’s filter and storage centre for environmental toxins including heavy metals, pcbs and pesticide residues. To be precise, it is really a combination of liver, pancreas and digestive tract. In addition to those toxins, another concern, paralytic shellfish poisoning (psp) or red tide, also produces toxins in the food lobsters eat, such as clams and mussels. The roe (only in female lobsters), sometimes called coral after its colour when cooked, is also valued for its intense flavour in sauces and soups. So far there are no warnings on this delicacy. If it is red-pink and hard, it has been overcooked. The coral is found in the body and into the tail. Assuming you can find it, the stomach is not generally eaten but is not poisonous. Whatever their original colour – blue, black, brown, green or violet – lobsters always turn red, or more accurately reddish orange, when they’re cooked (apart from the white ones). The heat from cooking releases the yellowish red carotene-like pigment in the shell. Besides the incomparable lobster flavour, there are many other good reasons to eat lobster meat. There are fewer calories, cholesterol and fat in Atlantic lobster than in skinless white chicken meat, lean beef or poached eggs, but only if you eat it without butter or a sauce. It also contains various healthy vitamins and minerals.
RIGHT: Sir John Tenniel, ‘Lobster’. This wood engragaving is for Lewis Carroll’s book Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland (1861).
Lobster A Global History by Elisabeth Townsend. Published by Reaktion books, £9.99 www.reaktionbooks.co.uk
A Classic Lobster Thermidor Chill a live lobster for 15 to 30 minutes in a home freezer until it appears lethargic. (Do not freeze it to death.) Cut the lobster in half, starting where the tail meets the body, all the way up through the head and then back down through the tail. Take out the gills (inedible feather-like strands) from the carcass. Crack the shell of the claws. Lightly salt the lobster halves, drizzle with oil and roast in a preheated oven at 220ºc (425ºf) until translucent or about 15–20 minutes. Take out the meat from the tail and claws and cut into ½ to ¼ inch (3–5 mm) cubes. Prepare a very thick béchamel or cream sauce: 1–2 servings 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour ½ teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon pepper 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg 2 cups/450 ml milk 2 eggs
Make a stock with equal parts of meat juices, fish fumet and white wine. Add chervil, chopped shallots and tarragon to the stock. Reduce until it has thickened, and add 1 teaspoon of English mustard and a little of the thick béchamel or cream sauce to it. Boil the sauce for 2–5 minutes. Whisk in ¼ cup/ 60 g butter. Pour enough sauce into the two halves of the shell to lightly coat the shells. Add the lobster meat to the shells and pour the remainder of the sauce onto the meat. Then top with 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese and 2 tablespoons melted butter, and brown briefly in a preheated oven at 240ºc (475ºf). For an easier version, the lobster can be cut in half and grilled. Empty the two halves of the shell, coat them with a little cream sauce seasoned with 1 teaspoon English mustard (see cream sauce recipe above). Fill them with the sliced lobster flesh, cover with the same sauce and brown in the oven. Serve the lobster immediately. OCEAN VIEW 43
PR IC GEXC IN OC LU G R SI & UI V BE SE E NE FI TS
D -DAY, N oRMANDY, D uNKIRK and B eYoND 5th juNe – 13th juNe 2012
£200 on board credit & free transport
I TINeRARY WHY CHOOSE THIS CRUISE? D-Day Landing Beaches – on the anniversary of this great historic event • Medieval cities of Bayeux & Rouen • Tiny Heligoland – a former British colony • Amsterdam – picturesque capital of the Netherlands • World War II sites of Dunkirk & Arnhem
YOUR gUEST SpEakERS InClUdE: ANNe-MARIe HARRIsoN Born in France, Anne-Marie Harrison took a degree in english. After living in the Far east for 16 years, she returned to France, began lecturing and pursued her enthusiasms and education with a Masters degree in Anthropology.
BRIgADIeR HugH WILLINg Hugh Willing was a professional soldier for 36 years. Whilst serving in NATo Headquarters in Holland he was able to visit many european battlefields, often with his NATO colleagues, which provided an alternative perspective and balance to the official accounts.
HELIGOLAND
pORTSmOUTH - 5th june Dep 6pm CHERbOURg (France) 6th june Arr 12 noon Dep 6pm
IJMUIDEN
sail along the coastline and remember the brave men who took part in the D-Day landings on the 6th june 1944.
ST pETER pORT (guernsey, Channel Islands) 7th june Arr 7am Dep 4.30pm
ROUEn (France) 8th & 9th june Arr 8am overnight Dep 1.30pm
DUNKIRK
ST PETER PORT
ROUEN
InClUdEd In THE pRICE:
Bombing raids during World War II laid waste to much of the city.
dUnkIRk (France) 10th june Arr 7am Dep 1.30pm
The setting in 1940 for the greatest evacuation operation in all military history.
HElIgOland (germany) 11th june Arr 10am Dep 6pm
8-night cruise aboard Discovery including all meals, entertainment and port charges • Comprehensive guest speaker programme throughout the cruise • All on board gratuities – other cruise lines add up to £151 per couple to your bill • All on board service charges – other cruise lines add up to 18% to your bill • Free parking at Harwich (worth £67) with complimentary coach to Portsmouth at the start of your cruise or free coach from Harwich to Portsmouth at the end of your cruise
Britain traded Heligoland for Zanzibar in 1890.
Holland’s historic capital with its lacework of canals, countless 17th and 18th century townhouses, thousands of bicycles and wonderful flower markets.
HaRWICH (England) - 13th june Arr 7am
PORTSMOUTH
CHERBOURG
A tapestry of architectural styles tells a story of the changing fortunes of this town.
IJmuiden (netherlands) 12th june Arr 9am Dep 6pm
HARWICH
• Free return coach transfer from London Victoria SUpplEmEnTaRY TRanSpORT OpTIOnS:
• Return coach from Birmingham £35pp • Return coach from Manchester £45pp
9 days aboard MV Discovery
from £855 pp
To book this cruise at this amazing price call us today: 44 OCEAN VIEW
0800 954 0791
Web: www.gocruise.co.uk
All prices are per person based on 2 sharing a lead in category cabin. All prices are subject to availability and can be changed and or withdrawn at any time. Free transport is a return coach from London Victoria. Returns from other cities are available at a supplement. ABTA J5035. Terms and Conditions apply.
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art
oria
EXPLORING BRITAIN’S COASTLINE
Coasting If you have seen the recent BBC series ‘Coast’ and it has inspired you to explore the endlessly fascinating British coastline, as we have been, then why not take a trip with us through the unspoilt beauty of Northumberland? And if you haven’t seen the programme, we hope we can encourage you to put on your walking boots
The ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, which was once one of the largest and grandest castles in the north-east of England, can only be reached by foot. This walk takes you directly to it.
The Cradle of English Christianity Your Northumbrian coastal adventure begins at the delightful village of Bamburgh, about 20 miles (32 km) south of Berwick-uponTweed, but try to put aside an extra day to visit the nearby Holy Island of Lindisfarne. Famous as the cradle of English Christianity, nothing survives from St Aidan’s original priory, founded in AD 635 but destroyed two centuries later by uninvited guests from Denmark. The site is also associated with Cuthbert who, when his body was found miraculously undecayed 11 years after his death, turned Lindisfarne into a place of pilgrimage. The remains of a later Benedictine priory, the Norman Church of St Mary’s and a photogenic 16th century castle perched on a small hilltop all help to give the small island a unique and many say a spiritual feel, helped in no small measure by the fact that it is cut off daily by a tidal causeway. The vast mudflats exposed at low tide are nationally important for wading birds, and with a low and unspoilt shore of dunes and rough beach, what better way
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OCEAN VIEW 45
EXPLORING BRITAIN’S COASTLINE
“During breeding season there are thousands of puffins, wobbling about rather comically on the cliffside and flying around with beaks full of sand eels”
OPPOSITE: Although Bamburgh Castle has been rebuilt many times, few such coastal defences can enjoy such an imposing position
46 OCEAN VIEW
to explore Holy Island than the wonderful 10-mile (16-km) walk around its entire coastline? Back to the mainland and to another eyecatching fortification. Bamburgh Castle not so much overlooks the pretty coastal village as dominates it. The Lure of the Farne Islands The easy, obvious and delightful way to reach Seahouses from Bamburgh is simply to walk along the broad ribbon of golden sand that stretches southwards seemingly without end. As you head along the beach you will notice a cluster of tiny islands about a mile or so offshore. These are the Farne Islands, and they represent the easternmost outcrop of the Whin Sill, a striking basalt ridge that extends intermittently across much of northern England. This volcanic rock, known as dolerite, is particularly tough and resistant to weathering, and it stands out in the landscape as high and solid dark cliffs. It was used to great advantage by the Romans who built some of Hadrian¹s Wall along its dark crags, but here on the coast it forms the foundations for Bamburgh Castle, as well as Dunstanburgh, which you¹ll visit a little later on in the walk. Offshore, the Whin Sill has created a patchwork of islets and dark reefs, and in years gone by they have proved deadly for passing ships. Most visitors to the Farne Islands come for the seabirds, with daily boat trips from Seahouses giving visitors a chance to get up close to a wonderful array of birds from gannets and shearwaters through to kittiwakes and razorbills. During breeding season there are thousands of puffins, wobbling about rather comically on the cliffside and flying around with beaks full of sand eels. Then there are huge colonies of guillemots, crowded together on ledges where without any nest they lay their single egg, shaped like a pear so that it spins round on its narrow end and doesn’t roll off. Even if you opt not to land and instead go on one of the round-island cruises, there are the two lighthouses (old and new) to inspect, plus the inevitability of meeting one or two grey seals along the way. Tickets for the Farnes are sold from a line of kiosks on Seahouses harbour, a compact little place that is often busy with fishing boats, yachts and pleasurecraft. The cafés, amusement arcade and souvenir shops give the small town a touristy feel, but you can avoid most of this by leaving the harbour on the clifftop footpath around Snook Point to Annstead Links. If the tide is low, Annstead Burn is fordable, but otherwise you’ll have to detour the short distance to the coast road. Beyond is more glorious beach walking south to Beadnell, a small community with two popular pubs serving good-quality meals. Again, much of this is hidden if you stick to the shore, but it is worth pausing by the tiny harbour with its preserved 18th century limekilns, which are now in the hands of the National Trust.
OCEAN VIEW 47
Ahead is the graceful sweep of Beadnell Bay, a sublime stretch of sand backed by huge and sprawling dunes. There’s a public footpath behind the dune system that takes you on a sturdy footbridge across a small river called Long Nanny, which is essential if the tide’s not in your favour. This is also the best route to avoid disturbing the nesting terns, which between May and August breed on Newton Links. The National Trust fence off the sensitive area, and wardens patrol the area around the clock to guard against disturbance. You can visit the specially erected viewing platform, next to their little wooden hut, by following a marked route from the back of the dunes, but please adhere to the waymarks and keep dogs on leads at all times. The colony can support as many as 1,700 Arctic terns, plus some little terns and ringed plover. The Ruins of Dunstanburgh At the far end of Beadnell Bay a path continues around two low headlands, separated by a tiny beach known rather mysteriously as Football Hole, then drops down to Newton Haven and the lovely hamlet of Low Newton-by-the-Sea. Here, by an immaculate square of whitewashed cottages, is the alluring Ship Inn, particularly well sited to quench the thirst of dry-throated walkers. The low-tide route across the beach continues around to Embleton Bay and almost 1½ miles (2.4 km) of smooth sand that ends with a series of rocky ledges and large boulders. Join the path that has been shadowing the beach via the links golf course behind the dunes, and follow this ahead and beneath the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle. Defences were begun in the 1300s, and for a while it was held by John of Gaunt for the House of Lancaster and played a brief but important role during the Wars of the Roses. But the castle was seized by the Yorkists on two occasions and was severely damaged by artillery, and after changing hands several 48 OCEAN VIEW
times it fell into serious disrepair. By 1550 it was described as ruinous, which makes it even more remarkable that 500 or so years on some of it is still standing. Continue south to Craster, a fishing village once renowned for its kippers. At the beginning of the last century, this modestly sized community boasted twenty boats and four herring yards, where the fish were unloaded, split and gutted, then either packed in barrels of salt for export to Germany and Russia, or smoked ready for sending off to Billingsgate Market in London. Smoking traditionally takes place between June and September, when the fish are plump and their oil content is high, and involves the herring being hung over fires of oak sawdust for 1014 hours to produce the distinctive reddishbrown kipper. The yard run by L. Robson and Sons (dating from 1906) still survives, and oak-smoked salmon as well as kippers are on sale in the smokehouse shop, or can be sampled in the next-door restaurant.
OPPOSITE: The glorious sandy sweep of Beadnell Bay is backed by deep dunes, some of which are home to nesting terns in the summer.
To discover more detail about this route and other coastal walks read: Britain’s Best Coastal Walks by Andrew McCloy, with photography by Stephen Whitehorne. Published by New Holland Publishers, £12.99 www.newholland publishers.com
EXPLORING BRITAIN’S COASTLINE
“it is worth pausing by the tiny harbour with its preserved 18th century limekilns, which are now in the hands of the National Trust.”
OCEAN VIEW 49
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SAILING SOLO AROUND THE WORLD: ONE MAN’S ADVENTURE
Lucky Hand
Les Powles had just eight hours sailing experience when he set off to sail solo around the world on his yacht Solitaire named after the card game. Luckily, he managed to survive his first adventure and now we join him on his second world voyage, as he heads towards Cape Horn on his journey home through fierce squalls.
By dawn I needed a rest. I was tired but it was a satisfied tiredness. Solitaire, the sea and I had spent an almost enjoyable night, each playing his or her part without taking too many liberties. Politely the seas had kept out of the cockpit and for once Solitaire had been glad of my helping hand on her tiller. As for me, well, it’s always satisfying to feel needed for something more than a sail change or a bilge pump. Week 26 ended on a Tuesday and I struggled to work out how I had managed to lose a day. My navigational figures were still coming out correct so I did not worry too much about it. The week’s run was 682 miles. Week 27 passed with no tragedies, although I ruined the film in Rome’s camera. I had a choice of keeping the half of film with the whale photos or the half with the photos of the Japanese boats. I plumped for the whales. The sores on my back worsened and I tried washing them with a strong solution of seawater and Dettol. My gums bled even when left uncleaned and new bones I did not even know I had started to develop. I baked golf balls of bread, sawed them into washers and fried them. Spread with a thin film of jam they could be sucked like pebbles and I would enter in the log that I was on the pill. If they provided any nourishment my bones ignored it and stuck out in protest. On Friday, January 9th, Solitaire and I had been alone at sea for six months. The idea of rounding Cape Horn had been born during our stay in Tahiti in 1976. Five years later all that stood between us and our ambition were a few thousand miles of deep water. Thinking of the seas to come I glassed in the lower board of the main hatch, which I hated doing as I was now virtually sealed below. The rear cockpit cover remained to be glassed but that
“We would round it, possibly without mast or instruments, food or water, but dead or alive we would pass Cape Horn” I could leave to the last minute. The week’s run was 640 miles, 16,695 in all and 4,000 miles short of Cape Horn. A week later we were 631 miles closer, still experiencing gales and confused seas, which baffled Solitaire and crew. During a heavy rainfall I managed to collect 7 gallons of water via the mainsail. Mostly I complained about my lack of headsails. Often I had to drop the mainsail when the wind increased because of too much weather helm and would have given anything for a strong number two genoa. Time passed quickly, marked only by pencil on a chart. One day a whale surfaced alongside us as I was putting a reef in the main. One minute the sea was empty (birds apart), the next we had an upside-down super-tanker alongside. It took some moments to appreciate that something so large could be alive. Although there is much that scares the living daylights out of me, creatures of the sea manage only to rouse my intense interest in their activities. I dashed below for a camera but by the time I returned the whale had gone. At no time did I feel it threatened Solitaire and for a long time I lingered in the cockpit and felt lonely when it failed to reappear. OCEAN VIEW 51
52 OCEAN VIEW
SAILING SOLO AROUND THE WORLD: ONE MAN’S ADVENTURE
“Solitaire suffered her worst knockdown since leaving England. For the past few days I have been frightened, not when the wind was screaming but when it suddenly stopped” We had some vicious storms, during one of which Solitaire was knocked on her side and the Bosun compass in the rear of the cockpit leapt out of its plastic holder and finished wedged against a gas bottle. I had to make a dash to retrieve it between breaking waves, minus wet weather gear or harness. There were days when we sailed under clear blue skies, the ocean swell hardly noticed below decks. Solitaire snoozed along at 4 knots with no more noise or movement than when sitting in her berth at Lymington. Then we passed our point of no return, much as jet aircraft do when flying the Atlantic. From now on Solitaire would stand a better chance of surviving by rounding Cape Horn rather than returning to New Zealand, and this engendered a great sense of relief. We would round it, possibly without mast or instruments, food or water, but dead or alive we would pass Cape Horn. In week 29 we recorded 630 miles, and the following week 679 more. I ran the engine for the last time and glassed in the rear cockpit locker, which meant that from now on I would have to crawl through from the cabin to reach the exhaust pipe seacock. There were a hundred things I wished I could have done for Solitaire and I hoped she knew this. If I had had the money, I would have given her the finest headsails spun from the finest silks. Week 31 was the week in which I opened Rome’s parcel, and the first week since the Cape of Good Hope storm that I experienced real fear. It had started well enough. Storms had become routine, a quick dash on deck to change down to the storm jib before the feet iced up. The log shows our lack of concern. Wednesday, February 4th, 1981. No sights thanks to gale conditions with unbelievable squalls. Solitaire being thrown on her side. The sky keeps changing colour, blue to black to pink. Fantastic. Sailing under the storm jib only. Thursday, February 5th. No sights thanks to overcast sky with drizzle. Gales died during night but high seas ran until early this morning. Have changed to working jib and mainsail doubly reefed. Sea not too bad now. Water running off the mainsail but not enough to catch for drinking. We are now deep into the loose ice area and the seas are bitterly cold. I have been wearing the quilted trousers Margaret gave me, another present I can’t remember saying thank you for. Margaret said they had belonged to a butcher who spent most of his time in a refrigerated store. I doubt if he ever imagined their being used to keep someone warm off Cape Horn, but a magnificent present for which I’m truly grateful. The height of fashion this season in the Southern Ocean
is Rex’s thermal jacket with a couple of sweaters and pairs of socks under full storm gear and sea boots. At night I doze under two wet sleeping bags with the temperature down to 40ºF by night and 50ºF on warmer days. The main problem is the damp cabin that allows nothing to dry. I can take off my quilted storm jacket below by day, but on deck full gear is needed as the strong winds bite through sweaters and the seas soon freeze hands. Provided you work quickly there’s no real problem. Loss of weight still a major worry and my strength is going as well. Very concerned in case I have to climb the mast as I just don’t know how I would manage to pull myself up. My back continues to get worse. Most of my shirts have now been worn and are bloodstained. It seems a terrible thing to do but I sorted out the few that seem reasonably free from filth and intend wearing them again inside out. I tried washing one in salt water but it would not dry properly and seemed to irritate my skin. Oh well, Rome’s present tomorrow. We are about 1,400 miles from Cape Horn. I’ll get sights when the sun pops out. Friday, February 6th. Still no sights, winds from west increasing to Force 6 to 7 as a few fierce squalls came through. Visibility down to a few hundred yards. Drizzling with some heavy rain during squalls. Have considered sitting in the cockpit and putting up the main, trebly reefed, to catch fresh water. Solitaire swinging about with just working jib so have given the idea a miss. At present I have 20 gallons of fresh water left. No worry as far as drinking is concerned but it would have helped hygiene to have washed a few clothes. Opened the parcel from Rome and Annegret marked ‘for cold weather sailing’. Everything inside is perfect... and so welcome. The conditions are better than I could have hoped for although below they are pretty foul and the cabin smell must be terrible, but I have to keep the hatch completely closed with these following seas. As I don’t expect visitors I’m not worrying too much about spraying air fresheners. Once or twice a week I treat myself to a throat and cheek shave and the lingering smell of soap in my beard gives pleasure for hours. I’ve now read all my best books through twice but with this parcel Rome has included a new book. The food and chocolate will give me special treats for a week. Without my friends back home I would have still made this voyage but oh how much I owe them. I just hope we can make it back to thank them properly for all their kindness. Saturday, February 7th. Sights put us at latitude 50º18’ S but it’s a bit of a guess as the horizon is so hazy, thanks to the drizzle, OCEAN VIEW 53
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54 OCEAN VIEW
SAILING SOLO AROUND THE WORLD: ONE MAN’S ADVENTURE
but I’m pleased to have anything after five days sailing on dead reckoning. Becalmed during night in fog, winds are now gusting from the west about Force 5 to 6 so working jib only. Sunday, February 8th. Solitaire suffered her worst knockdown since leaving England. For the past few days I have been frightened, not when the wind was screaming but when it suddenly stopped. Without the background of its noise the sound of the breaking seas seemed to increase, and without the wind’s controlling hand on the self-steering Solitaire ran like a child into thundering traffic. If I had to wait too long for the rogue waves and cross-seas to start slamming into Solitaire I would sit on the bunk and cover my ears with my hands, singing to drown the silence. Problems at dawn this morning. Very bad knockdown, working jib damaged. All the piston hanks are broken and the luff wire has pulled out, halyard parted. I think I can save the sail but regret the loss of the halyard as I have only one left and if that goes it means climbing the mast. Solitaire is in a mess with bilge water all over the place. At present winds gusting from the west at gale force with cross-seas from the south. Broad reaching with storm jib under a sunny sky, which makes no sense. I will have to be more careful until past Cape Horn. Port Stanley is now our nearest harbour, 1,600 miles away even if I cut in close to the Cape. The bilge pump is U/S so I’ve plenty of work for next two days. Longitude sight puts us 102º52’W, 25 miles behind our dead reckoning position. The seas have been too bad for sights over past few days. Pleased to get anything. Worked all day on sail which might shape up tomorrow. At least it will make a good spare. Monday, February 9th. Seven months at sea. Rain or drizzle and no visibility. Winds from west. Had spare working jib up until this morning, then changed to storm jib when rogue waves started breaking over Solitaire. Cape Horn lies on latitude 56ºS, approximately 1,260 miles to the east. I intend to go down to 58ºS, putting us 120 miles below and well into the icebergs, much lower than other single-handers. With only one halyard left and my weakening condition I think it’s the safest thing to do. I don’t want Solitaire driven onto a lee shore without the use of her sails to claw her way off. I’ve cut down further on food: now I boil two cups of rice to last three days but I still believe we can make this voyage non-stop. Working jib not yet mended. I can’t be sure how far Solitaire went over in her knockdown. It happened so quickly that I didn’t wake up until she had started to come up again. When I went on deck the jib was over the side, held only by its sheets and downhaul. Whether the hanks and halyard were broken when the waves hit or as she came up is anyone’s guess. The jib is covered with antifouling paint but the seams are OK and I have spare piston hanks. Tuesday, February 10th. Week 31’s run 614 miles, total 19,249 miles. Good sights in a clear blue sky. Sea is flat with high swell. Winds 3 to 4 from west. A perfect spring day. Temperature up to 51ºF so able to dry out. Noon position, 53º51’ S 99º34’ W with
Cape Horn 1,200 miles to the east, only 129 miles south of our latitude. In week 32 we covered 643 miles, 45 miles below Cape Horn at 56º45’ W. Should we have lost our mast I thought we could jury-rig a headsail and run past the Cape. We would even give the Islands of Diego Ramirez a wide berth, passing 15 miles to their south. Solitaire was in good shape again. I had fixed her bilge pump and mended her second working jib and she even looked tidier below. All the water containers that had covered her cabin floor when we left Lymington 224 days before were now empty, and all but four stored in the forward compartment with the spare sails. My disco dancing could have been extended with the extra floor space, not that I felt too much like dancing. No signs of depression in the log although constant complaints about the lack of headsails, particularly a strong number two genoa. Food was a constant worry. The problems I had faced with my bleeding back and gums had been only the beginning of many problems caused by a lack of fresh food and vitamins. Solitaire’s movement did more than irritate the sores; it seemed to wear away the flesh. First I noticed my thighs, elbows and knees starting to stand out, then the fat disappeared. I still had muscles but no body weight with which to use them. Side effects included headaches, blurred vision and blackened toenails. I had enough food aboard to gorge myself silly for a few weeks and would often take some of Rome’s chocolate and suck it as long as I could make it last, then I would spend the rest of the night with the remains of the bar lying only inches away from my watering mouth, trying to keep my mind on other things, particularly Cape Horn, now only 500 miles ahead.
For more of Les’ adventures read: Solitaire Spirit: Three times around the world single handed, by Les Powles. Published by Adlard Coles Nautical, £9.99 www.adlardcoles.com
OCEAN VIEW 55
TRAVELLING COMPANIONS - A BUYERS GUIDE
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A PERSONAL STORY
Right Plaice, Right Time
Ocean View Editor Samantha Scott-Jeffries has always been passionate about seafood, but she’s convinced that when we can get it, local, fresh fish is best every time. the bar. The fisherman’s soup with black Some of my favourite food memories seem rice, the rich seafood paella, the grilled to feature fresh, locally caught fish. At nine, fillets dressed in the sharpest salsa verde I was in a bikini, perched on a bar stool in are made with whatever the fishermen ‘Jose’s Anchor Bar’ in the Algarve, eating discovered that day, and never seem to the daily catch in oil, lemon and garlic, on disappoint.. And this seems, to be the key. an endless white plate that appeared almost That fish, when it’s fresh, is fantastic, but larger than my tiny frame. it’s at its very best when caught and eaten At 15, my memory of a family birthday is prominent only for the whole squid that was presented to me at a bar in Spain. Within the simple atmosphere of scrubbed tables, strip fluorescent lighting and a television blaring from the corner, the lady of the house proudly presented me with a whole calamari a la plancha (from the grill) its tentacles golden and crispy, its smooth body gleaming white against a ring of freshly sliced tomatoes, when my aunt explained that I didn’t eat meat. Port Sóller, Mallorca After wincing at the thought of tackling what appeared to be by the ocean or at least from the country an ugly seamonster through an embarrassed from where it came. There is something smile and firmly closed eyes, the delicate, undeniably perfect about salty haddock contrasting textures were like nothing I’d and chips on the British prom, the freshest ever known and have yet to be matched, Spaghetti Vongole overlooking the water however many times I’ve tried to order in Italy, or garlicky prawns dipped in alioli it since. Maybe my very favourite place on the Spanish shore. In our Sussex coastal for seafood, however, is the small family home this winter, nothing has tasted better owned restaurant Es Mariner, in Port Sóller, than a ‘dab in a bap’ - simple, delicate white Mallorca. Here, the owner serves the fish fleshed fillets on crisp lettuce, smothered from the harbour that the simple restaurant in homemade tartare sauce and carefully overlooks in her slippers, her dog by her encased in floury white buns. We eat them side, leaving her white haired mother behind 62 OCEAN VIEW
with our hands, the freshness of the fish reminding us that soon, we’ll eat in the garden, with the smell and sound of the salty sea in the distance. Sustainable and tasty, they’re a not so guilty (and inexpensive) pleasure. When the local fish is fresh, the recipe can be deliciously simple or elaborate, and we needn’t feel irresponsible. Most of us are guilty of shunning ugly Gurnards, Pollack or Skate for not knowing what to do with them. Yet it can be mind boggling trying to decipher whether Atlantic or Pacific caught cod is a ‘green’ choice or which fish are rife in UK seas during their prime season whilst stood in a queue at Tesco. Unless you live by the water, it’s unlikely that there is a fishmonger with a wet fish counter who can tell you exactly what has been locally caught and how. However, in response to several chef backed campaigns last year, supermarkets are starting to take note. The new regulations on labelling at counters are now worth squinting at, whilst the Marine Conservation website www. fishonline.org provides a comprehensive guide to seafood fish by fish. Should you then be bold and spice up your weekly shop with seafood you have no idea how to cook? Hugh’s Fearnley-Whittingstall’s website www.fishfight.net offers an abundance of recipes. You can then be sure that your fish dish will delight and still leave plenty more in the sea.
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