Ocean View - September 2014 by Life Media Group

OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...

Issue 8 Volume 14 2014

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Time To Enjoy An Ocean View OCEAN VIEW 3

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Welcome

Being British, I feel inclined to make a gloomy, despondent comment about the fact that summer is nearly over, warranting the end of long, warm evenings, of lush green countryside, of camping, ice creams, al fresco dining and everything else that comes with the lovely, glorious summer in the UK. But alas, I shall refrain. After all, autumn is the perfect time for an adventure – children are back at school, flights are cheaper and resorts are quieter, while temperatures across southern European countries should be cooling off pleasantly by now. As always, Venice celebrated the changing season in style this year with the glittering film festival, followed by the spectacular Regata Storica. You can find out all about giant parades, human towers and other spirited Venetian traditions by reading our special feature on page 27. Of course, if you’re looking to escape the onset of winter completely, you can chase the seasons all the way to spring by travelling to the Southern Hemisphere. It is around this time in South Africa that hundreds of Southern Right Whales get the same idea. The little village of Hermanus is one of the few places in the world where you can watch these incredible creatures gather in the water from the shore. Read more about the annual Whale Fest by flicking to our Hermanus feature on page 46. Elsewhere you can catch up with chef and food blogger Sam Gardom’s adventures in southwest France on page 54, find out what it’s like to travel on a privately chartered jet on page 50, and follow our handpicked Italian inspired recipes on page 22. Summer may well be ending, but at Ocean View HQ, the adventures have only just begun…

Xiamen, China night skyline page 16

Zoe Thomas Editor

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We’re moments 4 OCEAN VIEW

We’re timeless

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ISSUE 14, Volume 8 2014

imply the finest way to see the world

OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...

Contents

Issue 8 Volume 14 2014 FREE

At Captain’s Choice, we don’t offer the ordinary, but the extraordinary and our range of Worldwide Journeys is no exception. Whether you want to go in search of the ‘Big Five’ in Africa, set your senses tingling in intriguing India, or feel the wind on your face as you cruise across Ha Long Bay in Vietnam, our range of inspiring itineraries will allow you to discover some of the world’s most incredible destinations in unparalleled luxury. You will stay in the best available accommodation, dine on the finest locally inspired cuisine, and be looked after throughout by an experienced escort team which even includes a doctor. No wonder Captain’s Choice is widely acknowledged as simply the finest way to see the world.

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It’S tIme to enjoy An oCeAn VIew OCEAN VIEW 3

Cover Image: Captains Choice www.captainschoice.co.uk

Ocean View Magazine Managing Director/Publisher: Lee Mansfield lee@lifemediagroup.co.uk Commercial Director: Simon Skinner simon@lifemediagroup.co.uk Operations Director Clare Fermor clare@lifemediagroup.co.uk Advertising Sales Lottie Dowdeswell lottie@oceanviewuk.co.uk Editor: Zoe Thomas zoe@lifemediagroup.co.uk Production Manager: Harriet Weston harriet@lifemediagroup.co.uk Design Assistant Amy Watson amy@lifemediagroup.co.uk Accounts: Amelia Wellings: amelia@lifemediagroup.co.uk Subscriptions: Linda Grace linda@lifemediagroup.co.uk Published by: LMG SE LTD Park View House 19 The Avenue, Eastbourne, East Sussex, BN21 3YD 01323 411601 Printed by: Gemini Press Unit A1 Dolphin Way, Shoreham-by-Sea, West Sussex, BN43 6NZ 01273 464884 All material in this publication is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The views expressed in Ocean View Magazine do not necessarily represent the view of Life Media Group LTD. Every care is taken in compiling the contents but the publishers of Ocean View Magazine assume no reponsibilty for any damage, loss or injury arising from the participation in any offers, competitions or advertisment contained within Ocean View Magazine. All prices featured in Ocean View Magazine are correct at the time of going to press. Copyright Life Media Group 2014 ©

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8. 14. 16. 22. 27. 36. 41. 47. 50. 54.

Extreme Sports: This issue we discover the best places for water sports Spending It: We have picked some of the latest camping gear to keep you warm and waterproof China: Visit China’s Xiamen during the Mooncake Festival Recipes: Mouthwatering dishes from little Italy Venice: The peak holiday season might be over, but Venice comes to life in September Barcelona: Join the party at La Merce Festival in Barcelona Dog Friendly Holidays: These Handpicked Holidays Promise to get Tails Wagging South Africa: Discover a place where giants of the deep swim metres from the shore Captains Choice: Ocean View’s editor Zoe Thomas experiences a whole new world of luxury in a private jet with Captain’s Choice Aquitaine: Chef and food blogger Sam Gardom relives his childhood holidays in Aquitaine, outh-west France

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Bahamas Tourist Office ©

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EXTREME WATERSPORTS

How Adventurous Are You Feeling? Our pick of watersports for all levels of daredevil... The ocean is a vast and awesome place, offering spectacular views, peaceful retreats and, for those with an adventurous sprit, a place to test your nerve and try out something different. Of course, you don’t need to throw yourself off a cliff and into the deep to get the adrenaline pumping (although, as you’ll soon find out, this is still an option). There are plenty of watersports to try out for all levels and all abilities, from pedalo hire in a tropical paradise, to coasteering along the jagged cliffs of West Wales.

Slow and Steady

Not all watersports involve racing along at 60mph risking life and limb for an adrenaline dose - sometimes you don’t even need to get wet to enjoy everything the ocean has to offer… Pedalo in the Maldives A lovely way to explore the clear shallows and coral reefs encircling the tropical Maldives islands is to hire a pedalo. Pedalos are a fun and gentle way of getting around on the water. You can pedal around the islands at your leisure, enjoy a picnic and OCEAN VIEW 9

Bahamas Tourist Office ©

EXTREME WATERSPORTS

“Seeing as beginners will be spending a fair amount of time in the water, it can help to learn the basics in a warm climate. The shallow, bathwarm waters around Barbados are perfect for windsurfing”

jump into the sea whenever you feel like it to cool off, or explore beneath the surface with snorkel gear. Sea Canoeing in Canada The cool blue waters off the Atlantic coast of Canada are home to some spectacular wildlife, from river otters, seals and bald eagles, to giants of the deep including Orcas, Grey Whales, Mink Whales and Humpbacks. With a sea canoe and a knowledgeable guide, you can witness these incredible animals up close and personal from the water itself. Skippered Yacht Charter in the Greek Islands Hire a skippered yacht to sail in the sunshine between the Greek islands, exploring quaint harbours and emerald coastlines from the luxury of your private deck. Stop off to shop in little markets and people-watch from street cafes, or lounge on a secluded beach soaking up the sun. Jump into the blue from the steps at the back of the yacht, or feel the salt breeze on your face as you sail at an exhilarating pace from island to island.

Adventure Seeker

If you’re always looking to try new things – and you’re not afraid to get a bit soggy in the process, look no further than these adventurous watersports… Wakeboarding on Lake Tahoe Wakeboarding involves standing on a board while clinging to a rope tied to the back of a motor boat. It is fast and exhilarating - but easy to pick up, making this a great sport for adventurous beginners. One of the best places in the world to try wakeboarding is on the beautiful freshwater Lake Tahoe in Nevada, the biggest alpine lake in North America. The stunning scenery and famously clear waters make this a remarkable location to whizz along in the wake of a speedboat. Windsurfing in Barbados Windsurfing might look easy but in reality first-timers spend more time in the water than standing upright on the board itself. However - this doesn’t make it any less fun, and harnessing both wind and wave makes for a breathtaking way to experience the

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EXTREME WATERSPORTS

awesome power of the ocean. Seeing as beginners will be spending a fair amount of time in the water, it can help to learn the basics in a warm climate. The shallow, bath-warm waters around Barbados are perfect for windsurfing. All around the island there is an abundance of windsurfing companies where you can hire boards, sails and life jackets, and receive training if necessary. Jet Skiing in Florida For high-speed thrills, opt for the simple but speedy jet ski: the motorbike of the waves. Far from a quiet amble along the coast, a jet ski will have your heart racing as the scenery whizzes by in a blur. Florida provides ample opportunity to hire a jet ski with safety equipment from various companies along the miles of sandy beach. Feel the Florida sun beating down on your back as you race through the turquoise waters, before heading back to the shore for a chilled cocktail on a deckchair - bliss!

Adrenaline Junkie

Now, we know that some of you out there just won’t be content until you’re dangling from a bungee rope 300 feet above the ground, hurtling from an aeroplane, or clinging to a jagged peak in some distant mountain range. Luckily, there are plenty of extreme watersports that promise to get the fear flowing… Kite Surfing in Cape Verde This up-and-coming tourist destination consists of 10 islands off the coast of West Africa - and, thanks to offshore winds and warm year-round temperatures, it happens to be one of the best kitesurfing spots in the world. Head to Santa Maria beach on the island of Sal, where visitors at all levels of ability can hire equipment and experience the thrill of this high-speed version of windsurfing. Parasailing in Phuket Glide over this Thai paradise with a parasail. If kitesurfing is the extreme

version of windsurfing, then parasailing is the extreme version of wakeboarding. Suspended over the aqua blue shallows and hurtling past silvery sands and lush tropical vegetation, daring types will have the time of their lives. In Phuket there are plenty of operators who will drive you out to sea, ensure you have the right safety gear and tow you along the coast for an exhilarating sky-high ride. Coasteering in West Wales You don’t have to circumnavigate the globe to find thrilling outdoor adventures. Some of the best adventures can be had right on our doorstep. Head to the Pembrokeshire and Camarthenshire coasts to get a real dose of adrenaline with coasteering. Coasteering involves traversing rock faces, jumping into deep pools, climbing, swimming through sea caves and leaping from clifftops into the sea. This is a highly thrilling activity for all the family: all that’s required is an adventurous spirit, an experienced guide, and an old pair of trainers you don’t mind getting wet. OCEAN VIEW 13

Go Camping

Ocean view selects the best camping gear to keep you warm and waterproof 4

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SPENDING IT

1. VANGO, Pop 200 2 Man Pop-Up Tent, £40, www.blacks.co.uk 2. Accessorize Peri Tassle Bumbag, £25, uk.accessorize.com 3. Unisex Black Festival Wayfarer Sunglasses, £13, www.sunglassjunkie. com 4. IGLOO Flat Festival Wellies Wellington Rain Boots - Blue Floral, £16.95, www.spylovebuy. com 5. The Camping With Soul Naturalmat, £159, www.naturalmat.co.uk 6. VANGO Airbeam® Flux 200 2 Man Tent, £180, www.blacks.co.uk 7. ARCTIC Flat Festival Wellies Rain Boots - Daisy, £18.95, www.spylovebuy.com 8. Mega Power Bank, £49.95, www.red5.co.uk 9. Rocky 3 Dome Tent - Apricot, £54.99, camping.efestivals.co.uk 10. Boutique Roll up Bedding : Steel Blue (Single), £75, www.boutiquecamping.com 11. BioLite Camping Stove, £149.95, www.glow.co.uk 12. GLASTO Flat Festival Wellies Wellington Calf Rain Boots - Black, £18.95, www.spylovebuy.com 13. Energy Tube 3 in 1, £24.95, www.red5.co.uk 14. Space Mac, £85, www.yumidirect.co.uk

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Celebrate Mid-Autumn With Mooncake Visit China’s Xiamen during the Mooncake Festival

An ancient seaport glitters enticingly from across the Taiwan Strait on the South East coast of China. This is Xiamen, the ‘Gate of China’, an important economical hub and a fascinating island for overseas visitors to explore. Mountains, skyscrapers, beautiful natural scenery and ancient temples all exist in this region, inviting tourists to enjoy the city and countryside in equal measures. If you choose to visit China in Autumn, you will be fortunate to arrive in the midst of one of the country’s biggest annual events: the Mid-Autumn Festival, otherwise known as the Mooncake Festival. This is an official harvest festival traditionally celebrated by 16 OCEAN VIEW

Chinese and Vietnamese people between September and October. The main idea of the festival is to gather family and friends together, give thanks for the harvest and pray for babies, marriage, beauty, longevity and a good future. There are a number of ways people celebrate these things, which include a lantern festival, moon gazing and the baking and eating of rich and intricate ‘mooncakes.’ There is something rather special about eating a mooncake. For one, this is a real delicacy in China, only appearing in shops and stalls around the time of the MidAutumn festival. For another, mooncakes

are unlike any cake you will have eaten before in the UK. Although ingredients can vary, most mooncakes contain a whole cooked yolk from a salted duck egg, surrounded by red bean or lotus seed paste and covered in thin pastry crust decorated with flowers, vines and moon symbology.

The Legend of Hou Yi

The Mid-Autumn festival can be traced back to moon sacrificial ceremonies that took place during the Zhou Dynasty (1046-256 BC). There are many legends connected with this festival. One of which is the Legend of Hou Yi…

BARBADOS

Many years ago, there were 10 suns in the sky, which burnt the crops and drove the people of China into deep poverty. In order to rectify this problem and save his people, hero Hou Yi climbed to the top of Kunlun Mountain and used his superhuman strength to shoot nine of the suns from the sky with his bow and arrow. As a gift, an Empress gave him a potion that would transport him to heaven and make him king. Because he didn’t want to leave his kind and beautiful wife Chang E, he decided to hide the potion. While he was away on a hunting trip, a man called Peng Meng rushed in to steal the potion. Chang E tried to defend it for her husband but Peng Meng had a sword and she soon realised the only way to keep it out of his hands was to drink the potion herself. As soon as she swallowed the liquid, she was lifted off the ground and transported to heaven. Upon his return, grief-stricken Hou Yi knew immediately what had happened. Sure enough, when he looked up at the

moon, he saw the silhouette of his wife dangling from it. In the years to come, Hou Yi remembered his beloved wife by setting out a table of sweetmeats and fresh fruit in her garden. When people heard of the story, they too prayed to the moon to show their love and longing for far-away friends and relatives. During the Mid-Autumn festival, the moon is especially big, bright and round. It is at this time that family members and friends meet outside, lay food out on tables and look up at the sky, reflecting on life and love in honour of ancient Hou Yi and his wife.

The City on the Sea

Xiamen is famous for its beautiful seascape. The deep gulf is ideal for cargo and cruise ships, while the vast palm-lined beaches nearby provide a tranquil escape from the heat and traffic of the city. The sea also has a huge influence on the local food, with fish taking pride of place on the menu. Some of Xiamen’s most popular dishes would be considered ‘adventurous’ by

many Westerners. Take Tu Sun Dong, for instance - which translates as ‘Sea Worm Jelly’. This is exactly what it says on the label: sipunculid worms set in a clear, cold jelly and served with a variety of flavoursome sources such as satay, horseradish and chilli. Other popular dishes include: • Popiah - A popular street snack is popiah, fresh spring rolls spread with a sweet red sauce, filled with cooked carrot, radish, pork or seafood. • Oyster omelette - tiny brown haozi (oysters) are fried with sweet shallots until they brown, before being surrounded by a ring of golden egg. • Zongzi - pork, chestnuts, mushrooms, shrimp and fish are wrapped in sticky rice and bamboo leaf before being fried and serves with chill sauce, horseradish and satay. The taste of the ocean is prominent all across Xiamen, but if you want to get away OCEAN VIEW 17

from the urban sprawl and a little closer to the deep blue, we suggest you head to the famous Gulangyu Island - a popular tourist destination dubbed ‘Garden City’ thanks to its lush foliage and pretty landscapes. Gulangyu is a five-minute ferry ride from the city centre and consists mostly of a sandy beach. This peaceful retreat is also home, rather bizarrely, to 5,000 pianos and a 450 square metre piano museum showcasing a range of antique pianos from around the globe. If it’s adventure you’re after rather than museums, then you’ll be delighted to know that the clear waters around Xiamen are some of the best in China for kitesurfing. This makes Gulangyu a hotspot for waterspouts enthusiasts who visit to witness

Fried Oyster Omelette

Mooncake Fillings • Lotus seed paste: Many consider this to be the most traditional and also most luxurious filling (due to the high cost of lotus seeds). • Sweet bean paste: A sweet bean filling that can contain azure beans, mung beans and black beans. • Jujube Paste: This is sweetened with the juice of ripe jujubes (which

Popiah, Fresh spring rolls

you might know as ‘dates’). Jujube paste is dark red in colour and tastes smokey and slightly sour. • Five kernel: Other mooncakes are filled with paste made from five types of nuts and seeds held together with syrup. The most commonly used nuts and seeds include pumpkin, walnuts, watermelon seeds, sesame and almonds.

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and take part in a number of international kitesurfing competitions throughout the year.

Where to Stay in Xiamen

There are numerous hotels in Xiamen - some perfect for business, others for families and some for luxurious breaks. Swiss International Located just 10 minutes from the ferry terminal is the Swiss International Hotel Xiamen - a contemporary five star hotel with breathtaking views across the cityscape. A spa, gym and luxurious rooms await guests inside, while upmarket bars, restaurants, shopping and entertainment are all just a stone’s throw from the entrance. www.swissinternationalxiamen.com.cn/ en/the-hotel Millennium Harbourview Hotel This luxury 5 star hotel has a prime downtown location, allowing easy access to the international airport, key office buildings and all the best restaurants, bars and sites of interest in the city. Top class

cuisine is served by Xiamen’s celebrity chefs from the hotel’s four international restaurants. www.millenniumxiamen.com/en Seaview Resort Xiamen Further out of the city centre is the Seaview resort, a place for peace, romance and stunning mountain and beach scenery. A million square metres of land owned by the hotel give guests plenty of room to explore the luxury facilities, including nine outdoor pools, a wine cellar, cigar bar, meeting rooms, a luxury theatre and world-class gyms. www.xmseaview.com/en Getting to Xiamen There are a number of options for travelling to Xiamen. The Xiamen Gaoqi International airport is just 10km (6.2 miles) from the downtown area, and is served by planes from London Heathrow. Xiamen is also a popular cruise destination thanks to its international cruise terminal located at the western side of the island and designed to hold an annual capacity of 1.5 million visitors. A ferry bus

operates from here, granting cruise visitors access to all the main areas of the city.

Types of Mooncake • Chewy: Some mooncakes have a chewy crust, which is made from thick sugar syrup, lye water, sodium carbonate, flour and oil, giving a sweet taste and a chewy texture. • Flakey: Other mooncakes come with a flakey crust reminiscent of puff pastry. This is made with layers of oily dough and flour that has been stir-fried in oil. • Tender: In certain provinces in China, mooncakes are made with a ‘tender’ texture, close to that of shortcrust pastry.

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Autumn…

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ESSENTIAL RECIPES

Little Italy

Entice your guests with some of Italy’s finest flavours in a cute mini form, including zucchini fritti with smoked garlic oli, Parma ham, fig and gorgonzola bruschetta, pizzettes with a variety of toppings, arancini balls and mini portions of spaghetti Bolognese

Mini Fritto Misto Cones with Salsa Verde 1.75 kg (3 lb 14 oz) mixture of seafood, such as baby squid, prawn (shrimp), whitebait (fish fry), firm white fish fillets, salmon fillets and scallops vegetable oil, to deep-fry 190 g (62/ 3 oz/11/2 cups) plain (all-purpose) f lour sea salt 3 tablespoons olive oil 350 ml (11 f l oz) sparkling water 1 egg white lemon wedges, to serve Salsa verde 4 tablespoons f lat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons mint leaves, finely chopped 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 small garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon capers, chopped 3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Begin by mixing all the ingredients together for the salsa verde, season well and taste. Add a little more vinegar if need be or a little more oil to loosen. Set aside until needed. Prepare the seafood: clean and trim tentacles from the squid, shell and devein the prawns leaving the tails on, remove roes from the scallops, and then cut everything (except the prawns) into similar sized pieces so they cook evenly. Place in a bowl and season well. Heat the oil until it measures 190°C (375°F) on an oil thermometer. (If you don’t have one of those, a cube of bread thrown in should turn golden brown in 20 seconds.)

“Instant happiness with just two words: ‘Fritto Misto’. Golden, crispy morsels of your favourite seafood. Make sure your oil is hot enough and you won’t go wrong. These light and crispy treats work perfectly with salsa verde.”

Meanwhile, sift the flour into a large bowl, add a big pinch of salt and whisk in the olive oil. Continue whisking and slowly add the sparkling water until well combined. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg white until stiff peaks form, then gently fold into the batter. Take handfuls of the seafood, coat lightly in the batter and fry in the hot oil in batches for 1–2 minutes or until cooked through and golden brown. Drain on paper towels and keep warm while you cook the rest. Sprinkle with salt and serve in mini newspaper cones with the salsa verde and lemon wedges on the side.

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OPPOSITE: Mini Fritto Misto Cones with Salsa Verde

OCEAN VIEW 23

ESSENTIAL RECIPES

Grilled Baby Lamb Cutlets with Caponata Caponata is a delicious Sicilian sweet-yet-tangy vegetable dish that goes with almost anything. Enjoy hot or cold with meat, chicken or toasted ciabatta. This version is cooked so quickly that it still retains a lovely texture from the celery. 16 baby lamb cutlets 2 sprigs of rosemary, leaves picked extra-virgin olive oil, to marinade sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons olive oil, to fry 1 large aubergine (eggplant), cut into 1 cm (0.5 in) cubes 1 red onion, diced 2 celery stalks, cut into 1 cm (0.5 in) cubes 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 300 g (10.5 oz/1.5 cups) baby plum tomatoes, chopped 1 tablespoon tomato purĂŠe (paste) 1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 4 tablespoons baby capers 3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts handful of basil leaves, torn Put the lamb cutlets in a shallow dish, sprinkle over the rosemary, a little extra-virgin olive oil and season. Cover and leave to marinate for a minimum of 25 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil to a large saute pan over a medium heat and cook the aubergine until golden brown on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Add another tablespoon of olive oil to the pan over a low-medium heat. Saute the onion until soft and translucent, add the celery and garlic and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, puree, sugar and vinegar and cook for 10 minutes or until the tomatoes have broken down to create a thick sauce. Return the aubergine to the pan along with the capers, pine nuts and basil. Remove from the heat. Heat a large frying pan over a medium-high heat with the remaining oil. Remove the lamb from the marinade and cook in batches for 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;3 minutes on each side, depending on size. Allow each batch to rest for 5 minutes and keep warm until all the lamb has been cooked. Place a heaped tablespoon of caponata on 16 small dishes and lay a lamb cutlet on top to serve.

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Grilled Baby Lamb Cutlets with Caponata

Chocolate and Hazelnut Gelato A rich indulgent adult gelato that also contains one of my favourite childhood flavours: Nutella. I could eat almost a whole jar by myself when I was younger. This recipe will be one you make again and again… 250 ml (8ó f l oz) whole milk 125 ml (4 f l oz) double (heavy) cream 100 g (3 1/ 2 oz/ 1/ 3 cup) Nutella 150 ml (5 f l oz) Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur) 4 egg yolks 5 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar 100 g (31/ 2 oz/2/ 3 cup) toasted hazelnuts, finely chopped mini waff le cones or chocolate wafers, to serve Pour the milk and cream into a saucepan, add the Nutella and heat gently until the Nutella melts. Meanwhile pour the Frangelico into a small saucepan, place over a high heat and reduce by half, to intensify the flavour. Remove and set aside to cool. Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until pale and creamy. Slowly add the milk mixture, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the pan and stir gently over a low-medium heat until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and stir in the Frangelico and half the hazelnuts, then allow to cool down completely. Pour it into an ice-cream maker to churn. When it’s nearly set, transfer to freezerproof containers and freeze for 2–3 hours to set completely. When set, using a melon baller or mini ice-cream scoop, scoop out balls and serve them in mini ice-cream cones or small bowls. You can store them in the freezer already scooped and ready to go, standing up in egg cartons as they are here. When your guests arrive and it’s gelato time, grab them out of the freezer so they don’t melt before you’re ready.

ABOVE LEFT: Chocolate and Hazelnut Gelato

Little Italy by Nicole Herft (Hardie Grant, £12.99) Photography: Jacqui Melville

OCEAN VIEW 25

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LTIAGES Photography by Didier Descouens ©

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Art, Architecture and Autumn in Venice The peak holiday season might be over, but Venice comes to life in September

s the air begins to cool and the endless streams of summer tourists begin to ebb away, the ‘real’ Venice comes to life in all of its moody, atmospheric beauty. At this time of year, it’s easy to imagine what the city must have been like in the middle ages, at the height of its wealth as an international centre for maritime trade. Even now, centuries later, relics of that opulent past can be seen in every nook and cranny of this city – not just in the countless galleries, palaces and museums, but out on the streets: the market squares, bridges, churches, houses and canals that all preserve the legacy of the Venetian artists and architects who created them.

Venetian Art

Titian is perhaps the most revered of all the Venetian artists. While he experimented with a wide range of styles over his lifetime, he was best known for his vivid use of colour. This is something that had a profound influence not only on his Renaissance contemporaries (who knew him as ‘The Sun Amidst Small Stars’), but also on the future of Western art. Venice was Titian’s inspiration and his canvas. He was commissioned to paint by wealthy residents all over the city, and the majority of his work remains in the buildings he originally designed them for. Perhaps the most astonishing of all

his pieces is ‘Assumption of the Virgin’, a giant alter piece in the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. It is in fact the largest alter piece in Venice, and thanks to its almost overwhelming beauty, has earned much praise throughout the centuries. On one visit to the city in 1919, Oscar Wilde remarked that it was: “certainly the best picture in Italy”. For a full chronological history of Italian art, a visit to Gallerie dell’Accademia is strongly recommended. This staggering collection is housed inside three former religious buildings: the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, which is the oldest of the Venetian scuole, founded in the 13th OCEAN VIEW 27

century; the adjacent church of the Carità; and the Monastery of the Lateran Canons, a 12th-century structure remodelled by Andrea Palladio.

Venetian Architecture

Venice may be small, but this famous ‘city of water’ is dense with culture, history and beautiful architecture showcasing that unique Venetian melding of ancient Gothic, Byzantine and Moorish styles. From the surface of intricate canals that cut through the city, spindly arches rear up, cleverly engineered hundreds of years ago to support the weight of whole buildings and yet keep them from sinking into the soft, waterlogged earth beneath. The architects adopted gothic principals to ensure the buildings were as light – and yet as strong, as possible. Bricks were used instead of heavy stones and wood was used for building foundations and vaulted ceilings. Glass was another popular material thanks to the close proximity of Murano, an island with a prolific glass making industry. While other Italian cities shied away from using glass (attacks from enemy troops weren’t uncommon in the

The City of Colour

Venetian artists are famous for their use of colour, which far exceeded that of contemporaries in Florence and Rome. Various reasons are given for this outstanding command of colour. As the greatest maritime power in Europe, at the center of trade between north and south and east and west, Venice was the gateway for all exotic pigments and dyes, enabling Venetian artists to use these extravagantly. Oil paints allowed more subtle colouring effects and were adopted early by Venetian artists, probably because tempera and fresco were unstable in the humid sea air of Venice. Additionally, Venice is uniquely situated in a lagoon, meaning that light over water falling from every direction produced dramatic optical effects boosting colour across the landscape.

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Venice

Photography by Didier Descouens ÂŠ

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Photography by Pascalniff ©

Photography by Giovanni Dall’Orto ©

middle ages), Venice was well protected by the lagoon, lowering the risk of using such a fragile, expensive material. Venice Festivals in Autumn Despite being a quieter time of year, there is still plenty going on in September through to November – especially on the arts and culture front.

sandbar that overlooks the Adriatic Sea. When? 27th August – 6th September 2014 The Regata Storica Everyone is welcome to come and witness an event that has taken place on the lagoon for thousands of years. At the Regata Storica, scores of 16th century-style boats descend on the Grand Canal steered by

When? 30th August – 7th September 2014 Sagra del Pesce An annual fish festival, where fried fish and lots of white wine are consumed in the calli between Burano’s brightly painted houses. The rowers who are still conscious can then take part in the last, and some would say – most fun, regatta of the season. Where? Island of Burano When? 3rd Sun in Sep.

“The rowers who are still conscious can then take part in the last, and some would say – most fun, regatta of the season”

Venice Film Festival The month kicks off with the star-studded Venice film festival, the oldest film festival in the world. At this prestigious event, art-house films created by budding international directors are screened in the historic Palazzo del Cinema and other buildings on the Lungomare Marconi, while famous guests mill about in glittering outfits on the red carpets. The aim of the festival is to promote all aspects of international cinema as an art, as entertainment and as an industry. Where? The Venice Lido, an 11km long 30 OCEAN VIEW

gondoliers dresses in period costume. This is the prelude to the exhilarating annual race, part of the Voga alla Veneta rowing calendar. Where? You can attend the Regata Storica comfortably seated on the uncovered floating stalls set up along the Grand Canal near Campo San Vio. Venezia Call Center +39 041 2424

Autumn is a time for the people of Venice to recuperate from the influx of summer visitors, to regain their composure and take the time to celebrate their city’s fascinating heritage. Why not join them, and sneak a glimpse of the ‘real Venice’ for yourself?

Getting to Venice

Venice is served by 2 airports: Venice Treviso and Venice Marco Polo, and the average flight time from London to Venice is 1hr 55mins.

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Pure Grenada

The Spice of the Caribbean

Relax and rejuvinate in one of the Caribbeans most diverse landscapes - on the islands of Granada

elax and rejuvenate - the operative words for any length of stay in Grenada. This gem, nestled in the Southern Caribbean 100 miles northeast of Venezuela, is made up of three unique islands, Grenada, Carriacou, and Petite Martinique. Each island has its own microculture and pace of life, and offers a host of land and sea adventures. Communicating is easy on the islands of Grenada as English is the primary language spoken. Grenadians are a happy people. Their conversations are always engaging, filled with humour, positive energy, and a good story with hidden lessons. The year round presence of sunshine and brightly coloured buildings are probably partly due to the overall high-spirited people.

Taste

Awaken your appetite with a shot of light, dark, overproof or spice flavoured rum fermented and distilled from sugarcane. With three rum factories producing more than 10 types of rum for a population of approximately 100,000 people, there is plenty to spare. Tantalise your taste buds with cuisine infused with a range of locally grown, quality spices. Grenada is known as the 32 OCEAN VIEW

Tantalising Tip: Nutmeg is great for flavouring roasted lamb and rum punch. Mace is a useful seasoning for soups and wine. Cinnamon and ginger complement sweet dishes well, such as cakes and puddings.

Spice of the Caribbean as it produces more spices per square metre than anywhere else in the world! The island is the second largest producer of nutmeg, a spice that has the power to heal and beautify. The islands are blessed with a bounty of staple vegetables, seasonal fruits and safe drinking water. There are dining options for every pocket. Have a ready-to-go fresh catch snapper sandwich or a dressed up, wine and dine sushi. Gouyave Fish Friday Festival is a weekly extravaganza within a fishing town that offers edible seafood delight. Local meat delicacies include curried goat, crab and callaloo, and stewed pork. There’s always room for dessert! How about some dark chocolate? Grenada is uniquely positioned with favourable

environmental conditions and rich volcanic soil that gives birth to the best cocoa on the planet! Not only does this tiny island make its own chocolates from bean to bar, but it also exports cocoa to Holland and Germany to be converted into cocoa butter, liqueurs, and cocoa powder. The Grenada Chocolate Festival held in August celebrates everything chocolate.

View

The underwater world surrounding the islands of Grenada is a marvel to behold. With the world’s first underwater sculpture park and more than 50 intriguing sites, it’s no wonder divers of all levels around the world continue to return every year. Within a day on the island you can feast your eyes on colourful coral reefs, spectacular shipwrecks and exhilarating dives. World’s First Underwater Sculpture Park This unique snorkelling and diving experience has often been described as a ‘must see’ for marine enthusiasts. This living art gallery is a reflection of Grenada’s culture designed by sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor, and has since had introductions from locals artistes Troy Lewis and Rene Froehlich. The sculpture park is located at Moliniere Bay within one of three Marine www.puregrenada.com

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Protected Areas in Grenada. As artificial reefs, these sculptures are proving highly successful in attracting a stunning array of varied marine life and easing the environmental pressure on other reefs in the locality. ‘Vicissitudes’ A circle of life size figures cast from local children linked by holding hands. Their transformation by nature, as they become remodelled by the environment and coral growth reflects the changes of growing up through a lifetime. The children depict the adaptability of children in any environment as the sea embraces them and the children become part of their new environment. There are now two rings of children at the park. It is up to you to count how many children are within each one while on your next trip to Grenada. ‘The Lost Correspondent’ This desk beats the office desk any day. Here, a man is seen working at his desk covered with historical newspaper cuttings including some documentations of Grenada’s involvement with Cuba. The work draws attention to the changes in

how we communicate and depicts the lost correspondent as a relic in today’s society. ‘Christ of the Deep’ This statue is a replica of the Italian statue that sits on the Carenage in the capital St. George’s. It was a token of gratitude to the Grenadian people for assisting the passengers and crew of the sinking Bianca C.

Wreck Dive Sites

Bianca C aka ‘Titanic of the Caribbean’ The Bianca C, known as the ‘Titanic of the Caribbean’, is listed as one of the top ten wreck sites in the world by several diving magazines and international experts. This enormous 180-metre-long (600 feet) cruise liner sank in 1961 and sits upright on her keel in 50 metres (165 feet) of water. Divers visiting the largest diveable wreckage in the Caribbean are always impressed and amazed by her sheer size and are often thrilled to see eagle rays, nurse sharks, schools of Atlantic spadefish, large moray eels and barracuda. Diving to Bianca C is restricted to advanced level divers due to its depth and perfect for one of your longer visits to Grenada.

On 12th October, 1961 Bianca C left Italy on her final voyage. Ten days later, she caught fire whilst anchored off St George’s, the capital of Grenada. The fire caused an explosion in the boiler room and the flames spread rapidly throughout the rear of the ship. Of the 673 passengers there was only one fatality as the crew and local fishermen helped rescue those on-board. Veronica L This much- loved and highly photogenic wreck is festooned with colourful soft corals, sponges and marine life. The open hold, crane and surrounds of this 25m cargo ship are home to Seahorse, Moray eel and on occasion, frog fish. Shallow in depth, it can be enjoyed by divers of all levels. This 45ft deep wreck makes a fantastic night dive.

Natural Reefs

Purple Rain This gentle drift dive, at times gentle and at others exhilarating, offers a wealth of diverse soft coral, glorious barrel sponges and notably a variety of file fish. Join hawksbill turtles, rays and great barracuda as you ride along in a shower of vivid purple Creole wrasse. This really is one of Grenada’s most pristine reefs at a depth of 20 – 80 feet / 6 – 25 metres. Boss Reef This extensive reef system extends up to 5 miles from the harbour at St George’s to the southernmost aspect of the island and offers a number of enjoyable dives. The upper reef with its rolling topography is home to lobster, Spotted Moray eels, trunkfish and often a passing green or

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www.puregrenada.com

GRENADA - SPONSORED FEATURE

Explore

Grenada Dive Facts • Excellent Reef Condition • Great Macro Life • Average Boat Trip 10 – 15 minutes

• 50 Dive Sites between Grenada and Carriacou • Dive Operators available at many major hotels

• Many hotels offer dive and accommodation packages

• Most dive operators provide nitrox

• Technical and re-breather diving available hawksbill turtle. Further along the reef, a series of sandy valleys demarcate the reef and an enormous Green Moray makes his home. On occasion a resting nurse shark or stingray may be seen. A distinctive hole arising at around 14 metres and dropping down to 18 metres is a popular hangout for Barracuda. The entire dive site is at a depth of 20ft- 80ft / 6m - 24m. Champagne Bubble Dive Immerse yourself in the warm bubbles coming from within the coral’s cracks at Mabouya Garden on the sister isle of Carriacou. Affectionately known as the ‘Land of Reefs,’ this sister island hosts a Marine Protected Area and some of the best diving in the Grenadines. The crystal clear waters house the leatherback turtles and brightly coloured reefs. www.puregrenada.com

Mangrove plantations, crater lakes, waterfalls, rainforests and black sand beaches can all be found on the islands of Grenada, giving it one of the most exciting and diverse landscapes in the Caribbean. Grenada’s sandy beaches range in colour from volcanic black to silvery white, making for a spectacular site whether you’re looking for a secluded spot to read a book, or a base from which to explore the underwater world with your snorkel. If you love beaches then head to the southeast coast – here you will stumble across a new beach every 20 minutes! If you have some energy to burn and feel like a longer hike, go to Hope Beach and make your way slowly to Paradise bay, not neglecting to stop off for a bite to eat and a dip in the clear shallows along the way. Hiking What better was to explore the islands than on your own two feet? Mt. Qua Qua and Fédon’s Camp provide exciting treks toward the heavens with breathtaking views of green landscapes and the Grand Étang crater lake. The Grand Étang National Park and Forest Reserve is a city of terrestrial biodiversity and natural wonders. Feed bananas or golden apples to a Mona Monkey, found only in West Africa and Grenada! Bump along the Balthazar River in your own river tube and soak in the warm bubbles of a sulphur spring. The St. Margaret Waterfalls commonly referred to as the Seven Sisters Falls are seven consecutive waterfalls connected with a network of rivers and forests. When you are done with the adventures, sit by the

roadside lookout point 1910 feet above sea level and take pictures of the capital and the glorious sunsets (#puregrenada). Ecology days out Alongside its breathtaking diversity of marine life, Grenada also boasts a wealth of ecological sites inland. If you follow the trail from Tyrell Bay, you can catch a short boat ride to one of the most pristine ecosystems in the Caribbean, with oysters growing on the routes of mangroves. Back at the harbour, you can wile away the afternoon in one of the many outdoor cafes, restaurants and grocery stores on the waterfront. Kayak along the mangroves and get a view of the coastline at your own speed. In the south you can visit La Sagesse Nature Reserve, a protected bird sanctuary and one of the most romantic spots in the Caribbean – lush with salt lakes and tropical gardens crammed with soursop, wax apples and a myriad of other native plants. Environmental Stewardship Grenada is dedicated to sustainable tourism, and more particularly geotourism. The tri-island state encourages the preservation and sustainable development of the environment and culture for the benefit of you as a visitor as well as that of the Grenadian people. When you cruise to Grenada, a small deduction of $1.50US goes towards an environmental levy. Join the more than 230,000 cruisers from the UK, the US, and wider Europe and cruise to a safe, and environmentally conscious destination that is sure to deliver soft adventure, great diving, flavourful cuisine, unique crafts, and welcoming people. OCEAN VIEW 35

Spain’s Biggest Street Festival

Join the party at La Merce Festival in Barcelona

For five days in late September, the streets of Barcelona spring into life with fire, acrobatics, fantasy creatures, human towers, markets and people of all ages, from all walks of life dancing, singing, drinking and making merry. This is a street party on a colossal scale, and it’s thrown to celebrate La Merca - the biggest festival in Barcelona’s calendar. When? Friday 19th September to Wednesday 24th September 2014. Throughout the week there will be hundreds of activities to take part in across the city in every street and square. Forget about hiring a car: set out on foot to really absorb the spectacle and stumble upon unexpected sites. This may be the only city 36 OCEAN VIEW

in the world where you can come across a precariously balanced tower of humans (called Castellers) one moment, and a parade of fantastical giants the next. Human Towers Castellers are a site to behold, and have in fact been declared by UNESCO to be among the ‘Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity’, alongside a selection of other breathtaking performance acts from across the world. It is a bizarre and long-standing tradition in Catalonia to form these towering human structures. They are built in two phases - first, the ‘pinya’. This is the base of the tower, acting as the foundations and safety net for the upper layer of people. Once everybody in the pinya section (mainly men) has manoeuvred themselves

slowly and carefully into position, then the remaining castellers will climb up as quickly as possible to form the upper walls of the tower - without putting too much strain on the pinya. The castell is then disassembled - in the most dangerous part of the performance, with the people at the top climbing down, layer by layer, with the cheering crowds gathering to help them. Fire Runs Fire runs, known as ‘Correfocs’ are another hair-raising Catalan tradition. This is where a group of people, dressed as devils, run through the city streets throwing fireworks into the crowds and dancing to the carnal rhythms of the drummers who follow them. This is a cacophony of bangs, explosions and dazzling coloured lights, made all the more fantastical by the homemade

dragons breathing fire (well, sparklers). Usually there are two versions of the fire run held - one tame, but no less exciting, version for the children in the afternoon, and one spectacularly wild adult version in the evening where roaring crowds get sprayed with flames from the sparklers. Visitors are advised to wear hats to protect their hair, protective glasses and long sleeved tops and trousers to protect from any flying sparklers.

models of kings, queens, nobles, fishermen, thieves and butchers. These figures can measure more than 4m tall and weigh up to 63kg, making this a hot and heavy job for the carriers, but an amazing sight for spectators. A percussion band will

Giants Parade A slightly more subdued tradition is the Giants Parade, which, you might be pleased to hear, involves no fire whatsoever. Children in particular love this parade, which stars giant, impressively realistic

accompany the parade, alongside a variety of mythical beasts and dragons.

with sleek modernist buildings. As one of the Mediterranean’s busiest ports, it is a busy, cosmopolitan and trendy place, packed with modern art and avant-garde bars and restaurants. Barcelona’s 14 districts can be explored by bus, metro, taxi or by foot. Each one has something different to offer, from the popular beaches of Barceloneta Barrio, to the historical Barri Gotic Quarter (the Gothic Quarter) with its winding cobbled streets and towering, sublime architecture. For some of the city’s best shopping, head to the Eixample District. Here you will find designer shops, contemporary bars, restaurants and the city’s most

“A percussion band will accompany the parade, alongside a variety of mythical beasts and dragons”

Exploring the city Barcelona is a beautiful city where ancient gothic architecture is juxtaposed strikingly

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BARBADOS

Barcelona Merce Festival - The Facts • La Merca has been an official city holiday since 1871. • Legend has it that in 1687, Barcelona suffered a plague of locusts. To fight against insects, the government voted to ask the Virgin Mary’s assistance. When the city was delivered from the pestilence, the Virgin was named patroness of the city of Barcelona. Ever since, an annual festival has been celebrated in the city in honour of the Virgin. • Although the actual feast day is September 24, the festivities begin a few days before or after this date. • In Catalan, the word mercè has meanings related to service, help, a sense of compassion, and loving mercy

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famous building: Gaudi’s breathtaking Sagrada Familia church, looming over the city like a gnarled skeleton, representing over a century’s worth of genius design and engineering. This building has come to be an icon not only of Barcelona, but of Spain itself. If you’re looking for luxurious accommodation in the centre of everything, you will find plenty to choose from in Les Corts, the financial district. There’s the five star Hotel Princesa Sofia, a modern tower block decked out with luxury interiors complete with chandeliers, suited doormen and top class spa facilities. In the same district is the five star Hotel Rey Carlos Barcelona, which was built just before the Olympic Games in 1992. This building is all straight lines and angles, with modernist interiors and an exotic landscaped garden and a number of trendy bars inside. Les Corts’ hotels are sleek, modern and perfect for business trips – but if you would rather have your base in a quieter part of the city, perhaps Gran La Florida Hotel will tickle your fancy. Overlooking the whole city from a hill to the north, this five-star hotel is perfectly located for

guests who want to explore the city, but escape Barcelona’s intensity at the end of the day. Alongside a luxury spa, pool, sea-facing suits and fine dining, guests are also treated to a private airport transfer direct to the hotel.

Barcelona’s Main Attractions Details of some of Barcelona’s top attractions: Sagrada Familia Visit Gaudi’s famous church. Where? Calle Mallorca, 401 Take the Metro (Blue Line, L5 or Purple Line, L2). When? October - March: 09:00 - 18:00 April - September: 09:00 - 20:00; 25 and 26 December, 01 January and 06 January: 09:00 - 14:00. How much? Main entrance (Queuing): €14.80 Main entrance + towers (Queuing): €19.30.

BARCELONA

Poble Espanyol de Montjuïc otherwise known as the Spanish Village A small Spanish village with architecture representing different parts of spain, housing a variety of craft shows and workshops producing traditional goods. Where? Francesc Ferrer i Guardia, 13 Take the Metro (Green Line, L3 or Red Line L1). How much? €11.00. Picasso Museum View the stunning collection of Picasso’s paintings in chronological order, where you will be able to see how his style and ways of thinking change over time. Where? Montcada, 15-23 Take the Metro (Yellow Line, L4). When? Tuesday - Sunday: 10:00 - 20:00; Closed on working Mondays Annual closing days: 01 January, 01 May, 24 June, 25 December, 26 December. How much? €11.00 for main exhibition - extra for special showings. The Magic Fountain of Montjuïc A spectacular display of light, colour, water and music first created in 1992, during the Great Universal Exhibition. Where? Plaça Espanya Take the Metro (Green Line, L3), (Red Line, L1). When? The magic fountain does not operate on Mondays, Tuesdays or Wednesdays throughout the year. How much? Free.

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A haven for people and wildlife www.sark.co.uk

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13 16:15

Top Dog-Friendly Destinations These Handpicked Holidays Promise to get Tails Wagging

aking to the road with your fourlegged friend doesn’t have to be a struggle – especially in Britain, where we are a proud nation of dog lovers with plenty of pet-friendly pubs, cottages, parks and beaches perfect for a scamper and sniff around. Whether you’re looking for an invigorating action holiday, a spot of ‘glamping’, or a quiet pamper in a luxury country hotel - all it takes is a little bit of planning to come up with the perfect holiday

every member of the family can enjoy, including the furry ones.

Country Houses for Canines

If you thought you would have to resign to camping or caravanning to enjoy a holiday with your dog, think again. Due to the growing popularity of pet tourism in the UK, both you and your dog can now enjoy an exclusive country house stay in the lap of luxury at some of the most popular

destinations - without upsetting the proprietor! Here’s our pick of some of the best: Hotel Endsleigh, Devon This moody, 19th century country pile overlooks the River Tamar towards Cornwall, right on the edge of Dartmoor. It boasts 108 acres of landscaped gardens, woodland, follies and grottos, making it an adventurous pooch’s paradise. OCEAN VIEW 41

DOG FRIENDLY HOLIDAYS

“The beauty of Britain is that there’s over 7,000km of coastline to explore with your pup” LEFT: Dog is camping at a campground with his owner OPPOSITE: Woman hiking on Bodmin Moor in Cornwall with dog

Preparing to Take Your Pet on Holiday • Make sure your pet is fit and healthy before you leave - travelling can be stressful for some animals and this can exacerbate health problems. •Acclimatise your pet by taking it on short car trips before embarking on a long journey • If you’ve got a long drive ahead of you, plan regular stops to exercise your pet. • Take a sufficient amount of your pet’s usual food and enough water for the journey. • Ensure your pet carries an identity disc that includes your holiday address in case it wanders away from base camp. • Give your pet a light meal about two hours before travel - if you feed him/her within two hours of travel, this can cause travel sickness • Ensure your vehicle is well ventilated and cool for a comfortable, safe journey en-route.

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Dogs are welcome in all 16 of the individually styled bedrooms and public areas (except the main restaurant) and beds and bowls are provided upon request. www.hotelendsleigh.com

professionals at the Dog Lodges, where comfortable, safe accommodation is provided. www.raithwaiteestate.com

Thornbury Castle, Cotswolds Treat your dog to a royal experience at this luxury Tudor castle, where guests can try their hand at a number of exciting activities in the grounds, including archery and croquet. In the sprawling grounds you can follow in the footsteps of Henry VIII and his second wife Ann Bolyne, who visited the castle together in the 1500s. Well-behaved pets are welcome in all bedchambers, public areas and grounds. www.thornburycastle.co.uk

There’s nothing dogs love more than bounding along a big stretch of beach, racing into the water, making friends with other dogs and exploring all the exciting sights and smells of the coast. The beauty of Britain is that there’s over 7,000km of coastline to explore with your pup. Below are some of our favourite dog-friendly coastal retreats:

Raithwaite Estate This is a holiday where your furry friend really comes first. In fact, in January the hotel opened Britain’s first luxury spa dedicated solely to dogs. Here, a selection of treatments and therapies are available to relax, energise and invigorate your dog while you enjoy your own treatments at the hotel’s day spa. What’s more, if you decide you want a night out without your pet, you can leave him/her in the care of

Seaside Retreats

Dreamcatchers, Cornwall This luxury, four bedroom self-contained apartment boasts incredible views through plate-glass windows over the deep blue waters of Falmouth Bay. Beautiful, fresh furnishings give this property a first-class feeling, and wide open spaces give your dog plenty of space to play. The residence even comes with a private concierge team who can organise a chef to cook up a gourmet breakfast, lunch or dinner, and organise any food shopping you need throughout your stay. Bliss! 08000 88 66 22

ÂŠ Lostsomewhereinfrance | Dreamstime.com

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DOG FRIENDLY HOLIDAYS

Bluebird Cottage, Kent This gorgeous whitewash cottage is just a slobbery stick’s throw from the pebbly beach, where you can set up a picnic, take a dip in the glittering English channel, or simply admire the views from your al fresco dinner party on the terrace. Beautiful beachthemed interiors will take your mind off any worries and stresses, while the sunny garden provides ample space for your pet and children to play. +44 (0) 1637 881183

Go Glamping!

Forget incomprehensible tent instructions, forget damp sleeping bags, forget traipsing half a mile to the nearest WC. This is not camping: this is glamping, the most glamorous way to enjoy the wilderness of Great Britain. Despite the comforts and luxuries on offer, many glamp sites do welcome dogs with open arms. Here’s a few for you to peruse: Swallow’s Oast Glamping, East Sussex Discover the beautiful rolling South Downs and historic towns of East Sussex from the luxury of your own fully equipped, private safari tent on the outskirts of a forest – right on the route of the famous 1066 trail. Here you and your pooch will have access to a private wooden cabin with a hot shower and flushing toilet, as well as a lovely breakfast of freshly laid eggs every morning. The tent is equipped with comfortable beds made with 100% Egyptian cotton linen, a kitchen area and an outdoor veranda for al fresco dining. www.swallowsoastglamping.co.uk

• Bed/blanket/basket • Collar with holiday destination and home ID discs • Bowls for food/water • Lead & muzzle (if required) • Plenty of food/water for the trip and first few days on holiday • Litter supplies/doggy bags • Brush/comb

Plenty of activities are on offer at Lantern & Larks, including scenic walks through woods, farms and gardens, country parks, golf clubs, hiking trails and country residences. www.lanternandlarks.co.uk

• Cleaning wipes

Lantern & Larks, Lancashire Forget about the world from a colonial-style tent with solid pine beds, a wood-burning stove and simple but pretty decor at the heart of Lancashire. This is a cosy retreat with no WiFi or electricity, inviting guests to switch off from the constant buzz of technology and enjoy the surroundings with the people - and pets, who matter most.

Packing for your Pet

• Disinfectant • Toys

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SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa: Hermanus Whale Festival

Discover a place where giants of the deep swim metres from the shore

ermanus is a small South African coastal town with a warm Mediterranean climate, blue flag beaches and one of the highest plant diversity levels in the world. It was originally named Hermanuspietersfontein, before the postal office pointed out the impracticalities of this and had it changed. But Hermanus isn’t famous for its pristine beaches, fertile landscapes, or its eccentrically lengthy name – because every year, something even more extraordinary happens here. Every spring (late September and October), thousands of visitors flock to the coast to witness hundreds of Southern Right whales the size of London buses gather in the water, some just a few metres from the shore, breaching, spouting, lobtailing, spy-hopping and flicking their colossal tails for the awe-struck crowds. This is calving and mating season, and October is the month when the whale population in the bay peaks as the males arrive to woo the females. The Hermanus Whale Festival celebrates the return of the whales and will take

place this year for the 23rd year running, ‘putting the creatures of the deep on stage and under the spotlight alongside top performers and musicians from 3-6 October 2014’, according to the website. Last year, the town welcomed 110,000 visitors who flocked to the seaside to whale watch, listen to live music, enjoy street food and explore the activities on offer during the festival. Hermanus is one of the few locations in the world where you can whale watch without going anywhere near the water. The cliff path above the bay offers 12km of unobstructed views of the ocean, ideal for witnessing the unforgettable display. For those who wish to get a little closer, the town does operate a number of boat tours that get up close and personal with the magnificent creatures.

What’s at the festival?

Besides whale watching, there are plenty of other activities to enjoy at the festival, including eco-marine displays and educational shows led by specialist OCEAN VIEW 47

SOUTH AFRICA

environmental scientists and researchers. There will also be many marquees housing craft stalls, food halls, wine and beer tends and stages for bands, DJs and performing arts. If you’re planning to take the whole family, you can keep children entertained in the large kiddie arena, where they can enjoy magic shows, fair-ground rides and art classes. Elsewhere there will be vintage car shows, marathons, cycling races and fun runs. Exploring Hermanus Hermanus has plenty to offer away from

The Southern Right Whale • Southern Right Whales are one of three species of Right Whale • They were named by whalers, who considered them the ‘right’ whale to hunt and kill due to the value in their plentiful oil, and the fact that once they are dead, they float at the surface. • Due to overhunting, populations have severely depleted over the centuries. • Today, Right Whales are the rarest of all large whales. • Populations grow very slowly because it takes 10 years for females to become sexually mature and once the do become pregnant, a single calf will grow in the womb for a year. • Southern Right Whales are under international protection and have been since 1949. • South Africa’s population is thought to have grown from 100 to 1,000 in that time period.

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the famous whale festival. Its beautiful, lush landscape is perfect for hikers, photographers and lovers of the great outdoors, while children and adventurous spirits will love all the activities on offer such as quad biking and paint-balling.

to-door in a luxurious air-conditioned minibus. Along the way, your guide will discuss all the interesting aspects of local wine, including the history, growing procedures, cellars, bottling, corks and barrels - all while you taste the wine itself.

Forest Adventures Northwest of Hermanus is Kogelberg Nature Reserve – a protected area that has managed to escape from human interference and as such, is a haven for thousands of species of plant and animal. Kogelberg was South Africa’s first registered biosphere reserve, and is one of just 400 across the whole globe. The lush green land covers a huge area of the coast, from Gordon’s Bay to the Bot River Vlei, and then inland to Grabouw and the Groenland Mountain. During the winter, water cascades over the rocks into the Palmiet River, creating the perfect conditions for white water rafting.There is a 5km route which takes approximately two hours to complete, and a number of certified kayak hire companies operate here. Another great way to explore the landscape (without getting wet!) is to grab a mountain bike and get cycling. Once you have purchased a permit from the reserve office, you can follow the 22km jeep track on a route that takes 2-4 hours.

Life’s a beach

Shark cage diving Wales aren’t the only creatures lurking in the deep…the largely misunderstood Great White Shark is also a frequent visitor to these waters. Visitors can go on a shark cage diving trip off the coast of Hermanus to see these incredible creatures first-hand and experience the thrill of these apex predators underwater, from just a few feet away. Wine tours Hermanus wine valley has over 15 wineries, 10 tasting rooms and 80 award-winning wines waiting to be sampled. You can either visit these sites by yourself, or you can sign up for a registered wine tour, where a guide will pick you up and deliver you door-

There are plenty of beautiful beaches to choose from on the stretch of South Africa’s coastline. Here’s our pick to suit all tastes: A lively beach Grotto Beach is a pristine Blue Flag beach and one of the largest in the area. It is situated in Voelklip and offers a number of facilities including a play area, jungle gym, ample parking, toilets and a beach bistro for light meals, snacks and drinks. There is alsoa lifeguard on duty throughout peak season. A peaceful beach Langbaai Beach is more private, tucked away between Kammabaai and Kwaai Water and mainly used by locals. This very picturesque hideaway is ideal for a quiet picnic or a romantic stroll on the beach. It also offers safe swimming at low tide, but swimmers are advised to be cautious. There are no bathroom facilities. A child-friendly beach Kammabaai is popular among families with small children due to its cosy, intimate size. It is just a two minute walk along the cliff path from Voelklip and offers ample parking. However, it is only suitable for swimming at low tide. A surfer’s beach Voëlklip Beach is a favourite among surfers, offering spacious green lawns leading down to the beach with a few rocky coves nearby. Refreshments are available a few minutes walk away. There are some basic toilet and washing facilities and parking is ample.

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Staying in Hermanus

There are plenty of B&Bs, apartments, guest houses and hotels available in Hermanus. Here, we’ve selected some of the best luxury accommodation: Marine Square The luxury suites of Marine Square are located metres from Hermanus Village Square Piazza, which is bustling with restaurants, shops and little boutiques. This accommodation offers all of the perks of a hotel – including a reception area and

daily servicing, but with the privacy of a self-catering apartment. Each suite offers spacious, open-plan living designed by a respected local architect, finished with luxurious furnishings and local artwork. Master bedrooms are en-suite, and offer

modern feel, with fresh, colourful decor and air conditioned rooms with WiFi, mini bar and all the mod cons. Guests can also benefit from the on-site spa offering a medley of massages and treatments as well as a fully-equipped gym and pool. www.birkenheadhouse.com

“If you’re looking for a place where you can whale watch from your chaise lounge, look no further. Birkenhead Hotel is the epitome of luxury ”

Hermanus Whale Watchers TRIP TIMES: 09:00; 11:00; 14:00; 17:00 Bring your own picnic basket. Email: bookings@whalewatchers.biz

king size beds with 400 thread count Egyptian cotton bed linen, dressing gowns and spacious bathrooms. www.marinesquare.co.za Birkenhead Hotel If you’re looking for a place where you can whale watch from your chaise lounge, look no further. Birkenhead Hotel is the epitome of luxury, situated at the top of a cliff with incredible views over the deep blue Walker Bay, and all of its giant inhabitants. The hotel has a distinctly

The Cape Heritage Suites Here you can rent one of the oldest fisherman’s cottage in Hermanus - a treat indeed for history lovers. This quaint, beautifully furnished cottage offers a heritage experience with a romantic, stylish feel. All suites are fitted with gorgeous four poster beds, separate lounge areas and elegant Victorian style bathrooms - as well as mod-cons such as a mini bar, satellite TV and room service. www.hermanusmistybeach.co.za

How to get to Hermanus

Hermanus is just a 1.5 hour drive from Cape Town’s international airport, which is served by a number of airlines. OCEAN VIEW 49

An extraordinary ocean race to a most extraordinary island The Governor’s Cup is an exhilarating downhill dash from Simon’s Bay, South Africa to James Bay, St Helena Island.

THE NEXT RACE IS DECEMBER 2014. " THE GREATEST OCEAN RACE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF." Yachting World

"Start planning immediately and get prepared for three holidays of a lifetime, all in one – the race, the beautiful island and its delightful people, and the luxurious voyage back on the RMS St Helena." Billy Leisegang, Manager, False Bay Yacht Club

OPPOSITE: Views of the Kremlin, Moscow, Russia ABOVE: The River Neva, St. Petersburg,

For more information: Tel: +290 22158 Email: enquiries@tourism.co.sh 34 OCEAN VIEW 50 OCEAN VIEW www.sthelenatourism.com

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