OV Travel Magazine - Issue 3 Volume 15

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LIFESTYLE • SAILING • DESTINATION • LUXURY • RECIPES Issue 03 Volume 15 2015


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Welcome

This time of year is perfect for a Mediterranean holiday – prices are still low, the temperature is just starting to creep up, and destinations are quiet (but not so quiet that everything’s closed). I can vouch for this, because I found paradise in the Adriatic Sea a few weeks ago. The flights were cheap, the food was fresh and the landscape was just breathtaking. You can read my Korčula feature on page 14 and find out what Croatia is like from a local’s perspective in our new ‘Your Stories’ section on page 60. If you’d rather stay a little closer to home on your spring/summer holiday this year, then why not consider Alderney? Enjoy the beautiful scenery and tranquil beaches without the stress of flying too far. Find out more on page 6. For those who can’t enjoy the luxuries of holidaying out of season (yes parents, I mean you), an array of exciting activities await in France with Family Adventure Holidays. Discover more about taking your kids kayaking, white water rafting, snorkelling, sailing and so much more, all under the guidance of a friendly and experienced team, on page 48. OV Travel is designed to enlighten and inspire – so even if you’ve got months to wait for your next holiday, why not sit back and immerse yourself in our hand-chosen destinations and get planning for your next luxurious adventure?

Korcula, page 14

Italy, page 29

Enjoy Your Read! Zoe Thomas Editor

Family Holidays, page 47

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ISSUE 03, VOLUME 15 2015

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CONTENTS

OCEAN VIEW TRAVEL

OCEAN VIEW 3

LIFESTYLE • SAILING • DESTINATION • LUXURY • RECIPES Issue 03 Volume 15 2015

Cover Image: Columbia Beach Resort www.columbiaresort.com

Ocean View Magazine Managing Director/Publisher: Lee Mansfield lee@lifemediagroup.co.uk Commercial Director: Simon Skinner simon@lifemediagroup.co.uk Operations Director Clare Fermor clare@lifemediagroup.co.uk Sales Manager Patrick McCreanor patrick@lifemediagroup.co.uk Advertising Sales Jenny Ardagh jenny@oceanviewuk.co.uk Editor: Zoe Thomas zoe@lifemediagroup.co.uk Production Manager: Harriet Weston harriet@lifemediagroup.co.uk Production Designer Amy Watson amy@lifemediagroup.co.uk Accounts: Amelia Wellings: amelia@lifemediagroup.co.uk Subscriptions: Linda Grace linda@lifemediagroup.co.uk Published by: LMG SE LTD Unit 1, Swan Barn Business Centre Old Swan Lane, Hailsham, BN27 2BY Printed by: Berforts 17 Burgess Road, Ivyhouse Lane Hastings, East Sussex, TN35 4NR 01424 722733 www.berforts.co.uk All material in this publication is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The views expressed in Ocean View Magazine do not necessarily represent the view of Life Media Group LTD. Every care is taken in compiling the contents but the publishers of Ocean View Magazine assume no reponsibilty for any damage, loss or injury arising from the participation in any offers, competitions or advertisment contained within Ocean View Magazine. All prices featured in Ocean View Magazine are correct at the time of going to press. Copyright Life Media Group 2015 ©

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6. 12. 16. 23. 29. 35. 41. 47. 52. 56. 60.

Alderney: Experience Alderney: the hidden gem of the Channel. Spending It: Jet away in style this summer with our choice of holiday essentials. Croatia: Editor Zoe Thomas finds deserted coves, crystal-clear shallows and unpronounceable wines on this unspoilt Adriatic island off the coast of Croatia. Recipes: Food can bind and govern a family and no one knows this more than Hollywood actor and respected foodie, Stanley Tucci. Italy: Discover the best of Italy’s beauty spots, from ancient city streets, to peaceful fishing villages. Malta: The Maltese Archipelago is the ideal place to spend a break any time of year. Book Extract: We take a look at ‘My Cool Houseboat’ - a feel good style guide to unique and inspirational houseboats. Family Holidays: Family Adventure Holidays presents a range of fantastic options for the whole family to enjoy this summer. Britain by the Sea: Top seaside staycation destinations for the summer. Honeymoon Destinations in the Indian Ocean: By Jane Anderson, Editor of 101 Honeymoons. Your Stories: Croatia: Marina Vujicic gives advice on how to enjoy authentic Croatia from a local’s perspective.


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Visit the Channel Islands:

ALDERNEY Experience another world of holidaying, not too far from home in Alderney: the hidden gem of the Channel

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ALDERNEY

Alderney is the northern-most Channel Island, not too far from the English Coast. The island is just 3.5 miles long and 1.5 miles at its widest point, with over 50 miles of lanes and country paths, making it an ideal place for walking. The wide expanses of countryside are largely left completely to nature, giving the island an unspoiled feel. It is a place steeped in history, with white sandy beaches, fantastic accommodation options, delicious local food, and many annual events. Top it off with a huge array of beautiful wildlife and a fascinating 5000year history, and Alderney makes for an unforgettable summer holiday. A bit of history… The best-preserved Roman fortification in Britain can be found here - “The Nunnery”which was a fort used during the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars. It’s thought to have been a hospital in Victorian times before it was converted into a German 8 OCEAN VIEW

strongpoint during the Second World War. Alderney was the only Channel Island to be evacuated in the Second World War and was the only place on British soil to house German labour and concentration camps. The island is testament to the returnees who rebuilt Alderney and brought it back to life in 1945. Alderney hosts an interesting mix of Roman, Napoleonic and German architecture in its build, with 18 forts and batteries as well as the famous Alderney Breakwater. The Breakwater is a feat of engineering, built as a protection against the weather so that no damage could be caused to the internal structure of the Victorian Braye harbour. What to see, do and eat Alderney’s Elizabethan wreck has excited naval historians and divers alike. It is thought to be the only known wreck of an English warship from the Elizabethan

age. Originally discovered in 1977, it has attracted many visitors to the Channel Islands. The Alderney Museum hosts a large number of fascinating artifacts retrieved from this wreck, as well as other exhibitions detailing the island’s story. Alderney’s railway was created to help the construction of the breakwater at Braye Harbour. The train was originally used to deliver stone during the construction project but today is the Channel Island’s only train that visitors can ride on, travelling in old Tube carriages pulled by a diesel engine. The biggest annual celebration on the island is Alderney Week. This is the longest running festival in Britain, with more than 100 free events for everyone to enjoy over seven days from 1-8 August. Events include: daft raft races, cavalcades, man powered flight competitions, parties, dances, live entertainment, a circus and the spectacular torchlight procession finale. Two thousand people congregate for this finale, all with


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ALDERNEY

flaming torches to light a beacon and watch the impressive fireworks. Famous for its remarkably dark skies, Alderney is the ideal place to enjoy the bright fireworks and the stars that appear at nightfall. This week is an especially good time to be in Alderney, but any time from April to September is still just as special for all there is to see and do and, in particular, its incredible wildlife. There is just one town in Alderney - St Anne. Its high street, Victoria Street, is a cobbled road lined with a selection of local shops. Alderney’s quaint charm has managed to ward off any modern influences or commercial attitudes, which have all too often become the cause of lost individuality and culture for other small towns across the world.

The island is mostly self-sufficient in terms of its food produce. Many fruits and vegetables are grown on the island and it supplies its own locally sourced beef and pork, as well as dairy produce like the very yellow Alderney Butter. Seafood is a large part of the Alderney cuisine, being an island, so be sure to try the speciality dishes on your visit here. The Wildlife Alderney’s wildlife is most well-known for its very unusual ‘Blonde Hedgehogs’. There is a theory that one or more blonde hedgehogs were released there in the 1960s having been bought from Harrods. Many other wild and wonderful sights can be seen on the island also, including 2% of the world’s northern gannet population, and the

largest puffin colony in the Channel. The Puffins return between March and July each year onto the uninhabited island, Burhou. This is just a 10 minute boat journey from the coast of Alderney and well worth a visit. The sea is also abundant with bottlenose dolphins and Atlantic grey seals. Alderney’s bays are also home to a large range of wetland bird species including: oystercatcher, ringed plover, common tern, curlew and whimbrel. For a great view of garden birds and wildfowl, the ponds and feeding stations at Longis and Mannez offer superb views from the comfort of bird hides. And don’t forget the migrants; Alderney’s position half way between Brittany and England make it a drop-in centre for all kinds of migrant birds in passage during both the spring and autumn.

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ALDERNEY Accommodation Alderney offers a wide variety of accommodation choices, from campsites for those who like to brave nature, to luxury Victorian Forts. Saye Beach Campsite is the only campsite on the island, situated on the very edge of the beautiful Saye Bay. It offers a full range of facilities to make your camping holiday a relaxing and idyllic one, plus what would be better than waking up right next to a beautiful beach? Most hotels are privately owned or family-run. Braye Beach Hotel is one of the top picks on the island and the only four-star joint, set right next to the beach with a sea view. For a similar quality, you can also book a stay at The Georgian House, The Victoria or Harbour Lights Hotel. There are also a large number of self-catering and guest houses to choose from if you’d rather go for a more intimate feel, including Villa

Mondrian and St Anne’s Guest House, or self-catering Pipedreamer House. Beaches Alderney’s best sandy beaches are Saye, Longis and Braye Beach. They are all great for swimming, but Saye Bay is protected by sand dunes and rocky headlands, making it ideal for calm sunbathing and swimming. Longis Bay is partially protected by a German anti-tank wall, and has wonderful rockpools. This beach is ideal for bird watching. Clonque Bay is perhaps the best beach for all wildlife sightings as it’s a haven for birds like the oystercatcher and little egrets who congregate there, while puffins roost in the nearby Hannaine Bay. Corblets Bay on the north coast is the best location for surfing and other water sports.

“Many other wild and wonderful sights can be seen on the island also, including 2% of the world’s northern gannet population and the largest puffin colony in the Channel”

www.visitalderney.com

Spacteo explore

Step off the beaten track and discover a Channel Island like no other. Alderney’s unique blend of secluded coves, abundant wildlife, stunning vistas and world-renowned natural heritage makes it an unforgettable destination. With direct air and sea links from the UK, France and Guernsey, why not go the extra mile and discover somewhere extra special.

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OCEAN VIEW 11 01481 822333 info@visitalderney.com www.visitalderney.com

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SPENDING IT

Dolce and Gabbana Sunglasses A stunning aviator sunglass from Italian fashion house, Dolce and Gabbana. Dolce and Gabbana epitomise Italian flamboyance. The house blends the classic with the unconventional, finding limitless inspiration in Dominico Dolce’s birthplace Sicily. £123. www.sunglasses-shop.co.uk

Summer Essentials Jet away in style this summer with our choice of holiday essentials

Hugo Boss Geofrenzy Beach Towel Stay stylish at the beach with this Geofrenzy beach towel from Hugo Boss. Featuring a bold fractured geometric print in contrasting colours, this vibrant towel is made from 100% cotton. £37.50. www.amara.com

Liberty Print Swimsuit

Stripe Sarong

Never too far from the fashion spotlight, swimming costumes are back as the fashionforward swimwear of choice. This style shake-up means the prints have got bolder and the shapes have had a refresh. £49. www.laredoute.co.uk 12 OCEAN VIEW

From the Phase Eight beach collection - this crisp cotton sarong features seaside stripes of white, red and blue. £39. www.phase-eight.com


SPENDING IT

Howick Red & Navy Stripe Swim Shorts

Beach Umbrella Cool off under the shade of this colourful beach umbrella. With a complementary carry bag this large umbrella sports a UPF 30 protective coating meaning you can stay safe all day long. £55. www.oliverbonas.com

Howic swimming shorts, includes drawstring, 4 pockets, 100% polyester, machine wash 40°C. £30. www.houseoffraser.co.uk

Leather Mules It happens to us all, when the warm weather hits and you suddenly realise your summer shoe collection is distinctly lacking. Don’t worry, the leather mules are versatile, practical and of course stylish footwear. £39. www.laredoute.co.uk

Mantaray Flip Flops These men’s flip flops from Mantaray have a cork effect insole with an orange contrast mid-sole, and navy canvas toe post straps. £20. www.debenhams.com

Dolce and Gabbana Sunglasses Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana design the most glamorous and seductive shapes around. Their eyewear is no exception if their latest interpretation of the cat-eye is anything to go by. £149. www.sunglasses-shop.co.uk

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CROATIA

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CROATIA

Soloing in Korcula

Editor Zoe Thomas finds deserted coves, crystal-clear shallows and unpronounceable wines on this unspoilt Adriatic island off the coast of Croatia Usually I make an effort to at least try speaking the language of any country I’m visiting, but on this occasion – faced with a wine-list full of consonants and diacritical marks – I decided to let my finger do the talking. ‘Grk?’ my waiter asked. I smiled in an apologetic English sort of way and nodded. Grk, pronounced ‘Grrlk’ (with a rolling ‘r’) is a grape variety that only grows in central and south Dalmatia – and most predominantly on Korčula (pronounced Korchewla), the very island I’d decided to make my home for the week. The resulting white wine was crisp, strong and dry – and I got the sense that at some point in the growing process, the grapes had absorbed Korčula’s salt breeze, nutty pine trees and the fragrant flowers that grow here in spring. Grk is one of the most expensive wines on the island, as only a small batch is produced every year – so I savoured every sip as I gazed over the Old Town battlements to the sea, and realised I could quite happily blow my week’s budget right there (albeit my liver too). I’d arrived at Korčula Old Town the previous evening, after what was undoubtedly the most spectacular bus journey of my life – and not just because of the lack of screaming children, strange

smells and overcrowded seating. The views were beautiful as we followed the coastal roads over the mountains from Dubrovnik to the Peljesac peninsula, with the Adriatic glittering far below us in the late afternoon sun, and the dark green pine forests rearing up behind us. My rooftop flat (owned by a lovely local lady named Lucija who I found through Airbnb.com) was idyllic - located just outside the walls of the Old Town with dual-aspect views over the sea and the surrounding terracotta roofs, not to mention an ancient church bell within reaching distance (although it felt somehow wrong to be sunbathing in a bikini beneath it). With two terraces on either side of the apartment facing east and west, I was able to bask in the morning sun with my breakfast on one, and soak up the sunset with dinner on the other. Inside it was snug but charming - a perfect size for a solo traveller, or a couple that doesn’t mind being in each other’s pockets a little (I’m thinking low-key honeymoon). Everything is made-to-fit, cut from pale wood and varnished, giving the room a cosy cabin-like feel. There’s aircon – useful in summer when temperatures can exceed 40ºC, a kitchenette with all the equipment needed to produce a decent feast, and an en-suite with a shower. From the table and chairs on the easterly terrace, OCEAN VIEW 15


Photography by Zoe Thomas

you can watch the cruise yachts pull in and out of the harbour and hear the babble of conversation from the bars and restaurants below. There’s a real feel that you’re at the centre of things here, whilst being tucked away enough to avoid being overlooked or disturbed. There’s even an outdoor oven if you fancy grilling the locally-caught fish that arrives at the supermarket (a 30 second walk away) every morning, and a sun-lounger tucked away in a cupboard for late-afternoon snoozes in the sun. (You can rent Lucija’s apartment too by visiting https://www.airbnb.co.uk/ rooms/1173050). I spent my first day wandering the streets of Korčula Old Town, which is often described as a ‘mini Dubrovnik’. The medieval citadel juts out of the island on an oval-shaped Peninsular, contained within protective battlements that drop down into the green-blue sea below. The town was built by the Venetians when they arrived in the 10th Century, bringing their stunning 16 OCEAN VIEW

architecture with them. It’s cut through with dozens of narrow streets and steps that run off a main ‘spine’ in a herringbone design. The arrangement was designed by those savvy Venetians to cool the town down by sheltering the houses from the sun and channelling the cool winds through the streets. The walls have provided sufficient defence over the last few centuries against various invaders, including the Ottoman Empire, and now they make for a lovely place to sit and enjoy a cool glass of Grk – without the threat of being hit by a rogue canon ball. It doesn’t take long to navigate these narrow cobbled streets, but you’ll find something interesting in every corner and alleyway – views to the sea, pretty stone balconies, interesting jewellery shops, and courtyards full of lush foliage and ancient statues. There are a fair few touristy trinket shops in the Old Town (especially anything Marco Polo themed) – it’s become a bit of a hot-spot on the luxury yacht cruise map in recent years. But it’s yet to have that desperate feel you get in


CROATIA

some European coastal resorts, where touts jostle for custom in the streets and you can’t walk anywhere without someone trying to lure you into a bar with three free ‘fishbowls’ full of vodka punch. And anyway, if you feel the need to escape the crowds, a quiet retreat is never far away. Look out for the stone staircases located on the eastern wall which will take you down to the rocks below, where you can jump into the beautifully clear shallows to cool off (or dip your toes, if you’re a wimp like me). Korcula Old Town is a great base from which to explore the rest of the island. Three days into my trip, the temperature soared and I decided to get out of the Old Town in search of a quiet beach. I hired a mountain bike (brand new, light, great suspension) from a place next to the bus station. It cost me just 100kuna (about £9.50) for 12 hours and they provided me with maps and friendly advice

(Lumbarda, just 7km to the west, is an easier route than the village Račišće on the north-eastern coast). I passed perhaps three or four cars on the straight road to Lumbarda as I sped past gorgeous vineyards and sprawling pine

“Look out for the stone staircases located on the eastern wall which will take you down to the rocks below, where you can jump into the beautifully clear shallows to cool off” forests. It truly is a lovely, easy ride. In summer months, Lumbarda is extremely popular with tourists. This is because it’s home to one of the island’s few sandy beaches. I chained my bike up to the harbour wall (although a local fisherman

laughed and said there’s no need, no one’s out to steal anything here) and set out to explore on foot. There is a path that takes you all along the coast to the beach. Once there you’ll find a café for ice creams and drinks (not open out of season), and you can swim safely in the warm shallows. After a nice lunch in a village cafe (grilled tuna steak and vegetables with a coke - about 80 kuna), I made my way home. Disregarding the bike hire people’s advice, I didn’t stop when I reached Korčula Old Town; I continued peddling along the coast road up some steep windy hills towards Račišće 12.5km away, past the quiet bays of Medvinjak, Vrbovica, Tri Zala and Kneze. This ride would make for a lovely family day-trip, especially if you packed a picnic and your swimming/ snorkeling things. There are plenty of spots to take a dip in the turquoise waters along the way, or find shade beneath one of the many olive groves beside the road. Korčula was exactly what I’d dreamt OCEAN VIEW 17


Photography Ramón © Creative Commons

CROATIA

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of in the weeks leading up to my decision to book a holiday: somewhere peaceful, beautiful, with a warm climate, good food and – yes, good local wine. It’s safe, familyfriendly and, as I soon found, solo-femalefriendly too. If you can, I’d recommend going in spring or autumn to avoid the crowds, but in the summer months the town comes alive with nightly festivals, live music and dancing – so if life is what you’re after, go in July or August. How to get to Korčula There are a number of ways to get to Korčula island. I flew from Gatwick to Dubrovnik (an incredible £60 return) and then took a bus to Korčula (£9.50), which includes the ferry crossing. You can also fly to Split and take a bus/ hire a car and ferry from there, or you can cruise directly from Dubrovnik.


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Croatia has the wow factor... all the way from north to south!

Prestige Holidays are specialists in luxury holidays, offering some of the best hotels in the world and tailoring your dream holiday at an affordable price Prestige Holidays are THE specialist for Croatia. We have the biggest and widest range of holidays in one of the most amazing countries in Europe. Fact. Simple apartments, self-catering, a huge choice of hotels from three to luxury five stars, tours, fly-drives, walking holidays, bear watching and cruising. With a breathtakingly beautiful coastline, 1244 islands, around 50 of those inhabited, this is a country where you’ll feel different. This is a wondrous, unspoilt place where natural beauty prevails; it has won over 130 Blue Flag awards for its pristinely clean sea. You will find the roads are rarely crowded too. Croatia’s history includes Venetian, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian cultures. These can be enjoyed today in medieval walled cities, churches, palaces, in styles from Byzantine to Baroque. Modern day Croatia is stylish and cultured 20 OCEAN VIEW

with a Mediterranean lifestyle, and service standards are usually high. Wherever you are on the coast or the islands, you can reach a different world inland within around two hours: you’ll find pristine forests, waterfalls and national parks. Don’t delay – book your Croatia holiday now! Croatia has a jaw-droppingly beautiful coast and islands, green inland plains, mountains and valleys, preserved nature in National Parks and a wonderful Mediterranean lifestyle - with an emphasis on style! Enjoy Dubrovnik’s ramparts and history, Istria’s wine and festivals, Kvarner’s gastronomy and culture, and Dalmatia’s whole joy of life. Zagreb is truly the undiscovered capital city. There’s just so much to explore. Croatia neighbours stunning Slovenia and Montenegro too. This makes it easy to enjoy

several countries in just one holiday. Croatia is closer to the UK than many people imagine, so no long flights. London to Dubrovnik is only two hours 30 minutes, so is perfect for a short break or a family holiday. Prestige Holidays love to save you money! We have so many offers including early booking offers, free nights, free meals, children stay free, and much more. Please just give us a call and speak to one of our professional reservations staff who can help you book the perfect Croatia holiday. We don’t just do Croatia! We also offer many other destinations including USA & Canada, Bermuda, Southern Spain, Mallorca, Malta, Madeira, Morocco, Canary Islands, Sicily, Italian Lakes, the Algarve, Cyprus, Crete and Turkey. So call us for advice on any of these beautiful places. Call Prestige Holidays on 01425 480400. www.prestigeholidays.co.uk

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KITCHEN GOODIES

Measuring Spoons - Fish Design - Set of 4, £16.50. www.athomeinthecountry.co.uk

Asado Flameboy Bbq Multitool, £7.96. www.prezzybox.com

Condiment Dispenser, £10. http://50fifty-gifts.com

Foodie Gadgets

MUST HAVES

KitchenAid Artisan 4.8L Stand Mixer, Ice Blue, £379. www.johnlewis.com

Joseph Joseph Elevate Wood Carousel Multi, £55. www.occa-home.co.uk Sagaform Combined Grater and Spaghetti Spoon, £13.50. www.johnlewis.com

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De’Longhi ECAM28.465.M Prima Donna S Bean-to-Cup Coffee Machine, Stainless Steel, £999. www.johnlewis.com


ESSENTIAL RECIPES

The Tucci Table

Food can bind and govern a family and no one knows this more than Hollywood actor and respected foodie, Stanley Tucci. Throughout his childhood, family and food were inseparable and cooking was always a familial venture evoking a wealth of memories and traditions

Seared Scallops with Pea Puree Serves 4 FOR THE PUREE 1 pound peas (thawed, if frozen) 2 tablespoons olive oil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE SCALLOPS 4 slices prosciutto 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon butter 4 large or 8 smaller scallops (you may have to cut them horizontally in half so that they’re about ½-inch thick) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling Pea shoots or micro greens, for garnish (optional) 1. Make the puree: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a rolling boil. Cook the peas until they’re just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Strain them in a colander, reserving about ½ cup of their cooking water. Put the peas in a blender with the olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, and a touch of the reserved cooking water, and blend until smooth. You’re looking for a creamy consistency. Feel free to leave a little texture if you prefer. You can make this well ahead of time, so set it aside with the rest of the reserved pea cooking water until needed. Otherwise, keep the puree warm in a small saucepan. If it gets too thick, loosen it with a couple of tablespoons of the reserved cooking water. 2. Make the scallops: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and lay the prosciutto on top. Lay a second sheet of foil on top of the prosciutto, and then set a second baking sheet on top. This will ensure that the prosciutto stays flat as it cooks. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and set aside until needed. 3. In a sauté pan, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add the scallops and cook for 1 minute to 90 seconds on one side, then flip and cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute on the other, basting them frequently with the oil and butter and seasoning them with salt and pepper, until they are nicely browned and almost cooked through. Remember, they will keep cooking in their residual heat once you’ve set them aside. 4. Place 2 to 3 spoonfuls of pea puree on each serving plate. Top it with the scallops, then crumble the crispy prosciutto over the top. Drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil and garnish with the pea shoots, if desired.

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ESSENTIAL RECIPES

Pissaladière Serves 4 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons butter 2½ to 3 pounds onions, finely sliced 4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped Leaves from 4 sprigs fresh thyme 1 teaspoon soft light brown sugar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 sheet puff pastry or 1 portion pizza dough Flour for dusting if using pizza dough 16 anchovy fillets Handful of black olives 1. In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium heat. Add the onions and soften them for 5 to 10 minutes, then add the garlic, thyme, and brown sugar. If your frying pan is overcrowded start by using two frying pans and transfer the onions to one once they have shrunk in size. Reduce the heat and continue to cook gently until the onions start to caramelise and are meltingly tender (this may be a good time to use a heat diffuser). This could take up to an hour or more. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat and set aside.

“One of my first holidays with Stanley and the kids as a family was in Martha’s Vineyard, where blueberry pie was an obligatory end to each meal,” says Felicity. “We would race from the beach back to the house to see who could get to the previous night’s leftover pie first. Isabel always won! I knew that if I was going to be marrying into an American family, I had to learn the art of the blueberry pie” “I prefer a very short and buttery pastry, so it may be a little soft when rolling out. But do not fret—it is flaky and delicious when cooked”

2. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 3. If using puff pastry: Unroll the puff pastry and give it a quick roll with a rolling pin. Place it on the prepared baking sheet. Then score a line about 1 inch from the edges on each side of the pastry—this will give your tart a raised edge. Pile the onions onto the pastry, keeping them inside the scored lines. Place the anchovies on top in a diamond pattern, and place an olive in the middle of each diamond. 4. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until the pastry edges are puffed and golden and the onions are hot throughout and beginning to brown. 5. If using pizza dough: Make a portion of the pizza dough on page 210 following the method up to the point where the dough has risen for the first time. 6. When it has proofed, divide the dough into two portions. Lightly oil a 10-by-14-inch baking sheet and sprinkle it with a little flour. Spread out a portion of the dough on the tray, pushing it to the edges of the pan. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place for 30 to 40 minutes. You can freeze the second portion of your dough for later use. 7. When it has proofed again, remove the plastic wrap and spread the onions over the top, and finish as above with the anchovies and olives. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the dough is cooked golden brown and the onions are hot. 8. Serve hot, room temperature, or cold.

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STANLEY’S TIP If you want to make a rustic pizza with the remaining dough, follow the method above, but instead of putting onions, olives, and anchovies on top, just drizzle the dough with some good olive oil, your choice of fresh rosemary or thyme, and a sprinkling of kosher salt. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes until golden and crisp. Cut into squares. This is perfect with wine, cheese, and olives. Right: Pissaladière


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Blueberry Pie SERVES 6 TO 8 FOR THE PASTRY 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 16 tablespoons (2 sticks) butter, chilled 2 tablespoons superfine sugar Pinch of kosher salt Ice water FOR THE FILLING 8 cups fresh blueberries ½ teaspoon lemon zest 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup superfine sugar ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces TO ASSEMBLE Butter, for the pan 1 egg, beaten 1 tablespoon milk 2 tablespoons superfine sugar 1. Make the pastry: Put the flour in a large bowl. Cut the butter into small pieces, add it to the flour, and rub it in using your fingertips until you have a bread-crumb–like texture. Stir in the sugar and salt. Add ice water 1 teaspoon at a time until the pastry comes together. Form it into a ball and wrap it in plastic wrap. Put it in the fridge for 30 minutes to chill. 2. Make the filling: In a large bowl, mix together all the filling ingredients with your hands. 3. Assemble the pie: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch pie dish. 4. Divide the pastry dough in two, making one piece a bit bigger than the other as the larger piece will be your base. Roll out the pastry for the base until it’s wide enough to overhang the pie dish by a half inch. Lay it into the dish and put in the filling. Roll out the second piece of pastry, place it over the top, and crimp the two pastry sections together. Place the pie in the fridge for 20 minutes to rest.

THE TUCCI TABLE, by Stanley Tucci & Felicity Blunt with Kay Plunkett-Hogge is published by Orion Books as a hardback & eBook, priced £25/£12.99. Photography (c) Toby Lockerbie’

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5. When you’re ready to bake, remove the pie from the fridge. Mix the egg and milk together in a small bowl and brush a light coating of this egg wash over the top of the pastry. Make four small cuts in the top crust so the steam can escape, and dust it with the sugar. 6. Bake the pie for 40 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Remove and let cool for a bit. Serve with cream or ice cream.


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The Best of Italy

Discover the best of Italy’s beauty spots, from ancient city streets, to peaceful coastal fishing villages For those who have no interest in art, architecture, history, beautiful landscapes, wine or carbohydrate-filled meals, Italy isn’t for you. For the rest of us, it’s paradise. Every region, city, suburb, town and village has something different to offer. In the major cities you will find yourself walking through an ever-flowing story of beauty, love, mythical heroes, very real and unsung heroes, artistic pioneers and masterpieces of engineering and architecture. With its approximately 4,660 miles of coastline, Italy is also the ideal place for water lovers. The Italian coast, with its countless gulfs, coves and inlets, ports and long, sandy beaches, promises to enrapture sea-farers aching for a heady dose of salt-breeze and marine life. What’s more, most of it is easily reachable by car, train, plane, and vessel both large and small.

The Top City Experiences Venice Venice, the ‘floating city’, is one of the most romantic cities in the world. This ancient city is built on an archipelago of 117 islands, formed by 177 canals connected by 409 bridges. To arrive here most holidaymakers fly to the region of Veneto on the mainland, before hopping on a Vaporetto (waterbus) across to St. Marks Square. This only takes about 30 minutes and you can get tickets for the waterbus as you come out of the airport. Venturing through the tiny alleyways of Venice is an adventure in itself – this is somewhere you’ll certainly get lost, but this isn’t a bad thing at all. Losing yourself in the backstreets allows you to find the hidden wonders of this city. Taking a Gondola

along these canals is the most authentic way of seeing the city, as long as you aren’t afraid of spending a bit of money in order to do it. The best time to do this is probably early evening, when the summer heat has died down and there are less people around. This is also an ideal time to visit the Campanile: the bell tower. The queues start to die down once it gets to closing time at 9pm, so try to time your arrival with the last bell ring of the day, and skip the long queues. St. Marks Basilica is a must-do. Don’t be put off by the large queues – it really is worth it and the line moves fairly fast, even in the middle of the summer months when Venice at its busiest. Just make sure you’re wearing something that covers your shoulders and knees. This is the custom of most cathedrals in Italy. You’ll be awestruck by the incredible frescos on the walls and ceilings, the tapering OCEAN VIEW 29


ITALY Venice

spires, Byzantine domes, luminous mosaics and lavish marble work, all shimmering gold and wonderfully symmetric in its architecture. For the best views, linger for a while on the Rialto Bridge. This is often quite hard to find as the surrounding markets hide it when there are so many people around. From here you will see the most famous view of the main canal in Venice, and it is also the perfect place to watch the gondolas go by. If you have time, do visit some of the surrounding islands. For example, Murano is a beautiful island that you can easily get to. Here, you can see how they make Venetian glass, the most famous of its kind.

The Cathedral is not only a magnificent sight from the outside, with a door that makes any other entrance, even in Italy, seem small, but it also has incredible luxurious floors and paintings on the huge interior. Just above the main entrance to the cathedral is a large clock that’s truly one of a kind, with – quite remarkably, 24 hours

Duomo within the cathedral itself. This climb is not for the faint-hearted, with hundreds of very steep steps to endure; however, once you reach the top it will all be worth it. At the top, you are eye-line with the dome curve of the ceiling, allowing you to see the meticulous and skilled brush strokes of the paintings depicting heaven and hell, or as it’s more officially known, the ‘Universal Judgement’. From up here, the people wandering the cathedral look like ants. Climb even further up and you can see views across the whole city: all the quirky rooftops, the river, the people and even the hills of Tuscany beyond. The Uffizi Gallery is one of the world’s top art museums, hosting a large collection of works by two of the most famous early Renaissance pioneers, Leonardo DaVinci and Michelangelo. Also included in this collection are the likes of Rembrandt, Botticelli and Angelico. The building itself is a maze of corridors lined with tapestry –

“The prettiest feature is perhaps the floor, which is covered in multi-coloured marble stone. There is a huge amount of history in these walls”

Florence Florence’s museums, palaces and churches house some of the greatest artistic treasures in the world. The most popular sites here are the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Uffizi, and the Accademia. 30 OCEAN VIEW

instead of 12, with the numerals running anti-clockwise. When the clock seems to strike midnight, it is actually signalling sunset and is known as depicting ‘Italian time’. The prettiest feature is perhaps the floor, which is covered in multi-coloured marble stone. There is a huge amount of history in these walls, the intricacy of which will leave you astounded. The most exciting, yet strenuous part of the visit, is walking up to the top of the


Capri

but, as it’s not meant for the thousands of visitors that now roam the hallways, it can get very crowded. This is a place to patiently wander, not one for a quick look around! As well as a large collection of paintings, The Academia holds one of the most famous statues in the world: the statue of David. This museum charges for entry and closes in the late afternoon at around 5pm. However, don’t be disheartened if you miss this by exploring the rest of Florence – which is very easily done with the queues – as at 7pm the gallery opens for free. This is a well-kept secret from most tourists and may change according to the time of year.

The Best of Coastal Bliss Sorrento and Sant Agnello Sorrento is a coastal town in southeastern Italy, facing the Bay of Naples. Reached easily from Naples and Pompeii, it is perched on the cliffs that separate the town from its busy marinas and is known for the views over the bay, and the main square, the Piazza Tasso. In the early summer months, when it’s not too hot, there is nothing more pleasant than to wander through the Marina Grande fishing village. Here you will find tiny houses, traditional boats and charming small restaurants by the sea. Sorrento and The Amalfi coast in general is also famed for its production of Limoncello liqueur, and the area is a known cultivator of lemons. So don’t miss out on getting some of this delicious liqueur directly from its roots. Museo Correale is the main attraction here for those with an interest in archaeology, embroidery, ceramics and Neapolitan furniture. This museum also features beautiful gardens with breathtaking views of the coast. Sorrento is a great base from which to explore the surrounding areas, including the unspoiled countryside to the south, the Amalfi Coast to the east and Pompeii to the north. Pompeii is a fantastic day trip to take from here, just a short train ride away. Sant Agnello is a quiet suburb of Sorrento. Both Saint Agnello and Sorrento itself are beautiful areas; however, for a more

Florence

Venice

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Venice

authentic Italian experience with fewer tourists, Saint Angello is perfect. There’s no need to worry about getting elsewhere from here either as it has its very own train station with links to the centre of Sorrento, Pompeii and Herculaneum. Sant Agnello is set atop dramatic cliffs, creating fantastic views over the sea towards Vesuvius. Here you can enjoy the quaint suburban, romantic feel of the area, enjoy great locally sourced seafood and incredible views, all whilst being only a stone’s throw away from more amazing sights.

to the dream with this one – minus the car chases. In 1997, this area of coastal beauty was marked a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you can see why. The entire area extends over 11,231 hectares between the Gulf of Naples and the Gulf of Salerno, comprising 16 communes inside

province of Salerno, in the region of Campania. Amalfi occupied a high position in medieval architecture; its cathedral of Sant’Andrea, the campanile, and the convent of the Cappuccini, represent the artistic movements throughout southern Italy’s history. Saint Andrew’s Cathedral overlooks the Piazza Duomo, the heart of Amalfi. Positano is another mustvisit along this coastal route. This is a town set in a dramatic panorama, with colours spanning from the green of the Monti Lattari, the white, pink and yellow of the Mediterranean houses, the silvery grey of its pebble beaches and the blue of the sea. Positano beach is 300 meters long, and is one of the largest on the Amalfi Coast. It is known to be the most glamorous too, attracting a fashionable crowd of artists and celebrities.

“The roads here present a thrill-seeker’s paradise. If you’ve ever been envious of the fantastic driving spots in James Bond then you will get close to the dream with this one”

The Amalfi Coast Take a trip along the Amalfi Coast to see some of the most famous coastline in Italy, or even in Europe. The roads here present a thrill-seeker’s paradise. If you’ve ever been envious of the fantastic driving spots in James Bond then you will get close 32 OCEAN VIEW

the Province of Salerno. You can see the whole coastline and these communes by coach from Sorrento for a very reasonable price. At dusk on a clear day, the coastline is especially spectacular and Amalfi, often the stop point on coach trips here, is a lovely place to have dinner. Alternatively, you can take a boat trip around the coast. Amalfi is a town and commune in the


ITALY Based on the beach of Marina Grande, Positano’s ‘sea taxi service’, operates a fleet of small boats transporting visitors to the beautiful little bays, such as Remmese, Clavel and Cavone, which can only be accessed from the sea.

The Amalfi Coast

Must Visit Italian Islands Capri Capri is an island just off the coast of Sorrento. You can easily get there by boat, taking just over 45 minutes for 15 Euros. The island itself is small with a large fishing community. Once you’re there, take a boat trip around either half or all of the island. This will not only give you a chance to see the dramatic landscape, but also one of the Seven Wonders of the World: the Blue Grotto, or the ‘Grotto Azzura’. This is a stunning sea cave that is naturally illuminated by blue light. Sunlight enters through a small underwater aperture and is refracted through the water; this, combined with the reflection of the light off the white sandy seafloor, produces the vivid blue effect to which the cave owes its name. There are tours that include a trip on a rowing boat into the cave itself, which costs around 26 Euros with an extra admission charge. The availability of these tours however, very much depends on the tide and water conditions, which in turn depends on the time of day and time of year. Sicily Sicily is the largest of the Italian islands, surrounded by the Ionian, the Tyrrhenian and the Mediterranean Seas. It is one of the pearls of Southern Italy, with an abundance of natural wonders. This is an island covered in mountains, hills and surrounded by the sea, with incredible crystal-clear waters. Archaeologists are still discovering the history of this region, and the island holds numerous treasured sites for tourists to appreciate too. Mount Etna, the greatest active volcano in Europe, is on Sicily’s eastern coast and is one of the fundamental stops for those wanting to discover this region. You can cleary see how the landscape has been formed by the eruptions from this volcano. OCEAN VIEW 33


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Destination Focus:

Malta

The Maltese Archipelago is the ideal place to spend a break any time of year Malta is the largest island in the archipelago, situated in the centre of the Mediterranean Sea, between Sicily and the North African coast. It has a fascinating history, a rich culture and beautiful scenery. This is an all-year-round destination, with glorious sunshine and Mediterranean heat throughout the year. Summertime in Malta is all about outdoor living, especially on the beach. Fortunately there’s no shortage of beaches to choose from. You’ll find everything from fully-developed resorts offering all the requisite facilities, to more

secluded, quieter coves. Summers are hot but tempered by cooling sea breezes. June is the ideal time of year to come for sun and sea as the summer season is just getting into full swing and it’s not too hot. July

make sure of during these months is to have enough sun cream on at all times! No matter where you are on the island, you’re never far from one of the many magnificent beaches or secluded little coves. The Maltese coastal waters are generally clean and safe for swimming as there are no tides and the sea temperature averages around 22.8 degrees in summer. This not only makes for ideal swimming conditions, but also diving. The Maltese Islands’ clear blue Mediterranean sea is ideal for scuba diving and snorkeling. All three

“July through September are the peak months with temperatures averaging at around 30 degrees, while August is the hottest and busiest month of summer” through to September are the peak months with temperatures averaging at around 30 degrees, while August is the hottest and busiest month of summer, averaging at temperatures of 40 degrees. One thing to

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MALTA

islands offer unique diving experiences with an abundance of reefs, caves and wrecks that make diving here some of the most interesting in the Mediterranean. The calmness and clarity of the sea makes for excellent visibility, while the risk of encountering dangerous fish is extremely low. This creates the ultimate conditions for first time divers and beginners, however there are also plenty of challenging dives to choose from. However, Malta is so much more than just sun, sand and sea. With a rich history dating back thousands of years, the islands offer endless opportunities for sightseeing and exploration: prehistoric temples, roman ruins, medieval castles and walled cities, formidable forts, splendid churches

and wayside chapels are just a few of the historical attractions that families can visit for that unique travel-back-in-time experience. Malta’s capital, the World Heritage City of Valletta, is a treasure-trove of art and architecture. This city of the Knights

southern fishing village of Marsaxlokk, and neighbouring resort town of Marsascala, are also worth a visit. Described as one big open-air museum, history is everywhere on this island, and wherever you go, the scenery and architecture provide a spectacular backdrop to the striking and honeycoloured stone all set against the deepest of Mediterranean blues. What makes it unique is that so much of the past is visible today. The north, the most rugged of all Malta’s regions, offers spectacular views across to Comino and Gozo. In order to make the most of this view, take a walk along the coast to see some of the most stunning views anywhere in the Mediterranean. In Malta, areas that make excellent day hikes are Mellieħa,

“With a rich history dating back thousands of years, the islands offer endless opportunities for sightseeing and exploration”

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remains virtually intact, its streets flanked by palaces and tiny, old-world shops. Across from Grand Harbour lie the Three Cities of Senglea, Cospicua and Vittoriosa. Older than Valletta, they offer a fascinating insight into the islands’ maritime fortunes. The


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MALTA

Dingli, Għar Lapsi, Fawwara, Wardija, all the north and the various bays, and the southern coast with its fishing villages and Delimara Point. Gozo in its entirety is excellent walking country. Ta’ Dbieġi, near San Lawrenz, the Ġordan Lighthouse near Għasri, Ħondoq ir-Rummien near Qala and San Blas Valley near Nadur are all excellent walking areas. The Island is crisscrossed by tracks and lanes. The possibilities are endless. Additionally, don’t miss tiny Comino, ideal for a good day’s hiking and the ultimate in solitude and views. If you’re not too keen on the idea of walking, especially in the summer heat, then taking a boat trip is the best way to appreciate the beauty of the Maltese coastline. The formidable fortifications, the rugged cliffs and secluded bays around Malta, Gozo and Comino all look very different from the water, so hop on a harbour cruise or take a longer island cruise and experience Malta from a different angle. If you want to go more at your own pace, you can also charter a yacht or a boat and spend some time out at sea, soaking up the sights from the blue Mediterranean. The south offers a more authentic and calm atmosphere, characterised by its fishing 38 OCEAN VIEW


MALTA villages and quiet bays. These villages offer an insight into Maltese rural life. It is also the location of two of Malta’s prehistoric temples, Ħagar Qim and Mnajdra. Central Malta is dominated by Malta’s ancient capital, Mdina, a near perfect example of a medieval walled town. Beyond the walls, lies Rabat, a large town of Roman origin. The central region has some of the most interesting inland options, ranging from palaces to town house hotels. The arts have always played a large role in Maltese culture and continue to do so with cultural events occurring frequently. The National Museum of Fine Arts, housed in an exuberant Rococo building dating from the 1570s, exhibits some magnificent art, ranging from the early Renaissance to modern times. Theatre and music are very popular in the islands. A variety of theatres - including the Valletta’s Manoel Theatre and two opera houses in Victoria, Gozo - as well as several open-air venues offer a wide selection of plays, musicals, operas and concerts. Malta cuisine offers an eclectic mix of Mediterranean cooking. Although the restaurant scene presents a mix of world cuisine, there are many eateries that offer local food. Traditional Maltese food is rustic and based on the seasons. Look out for dishes such as fish pie, rabbit stew, beef olives, a Maltese version of ratatouille, and widow’s soup. On most food shop counters, you’ll see Bigilla, a thick pate of broad beans with garlic, which is delicious and well worth a taste. Fish is also a large part of the Maltese cuisine, as it is on most islands in the world. A trip to the Marsaxlokk fish market on Sunday morning will show you just how varied the fish catch is in Maltese waters. Favourite dessert delicacies are Kannoli, Sicilian-style, semi-freddo desserts and Helwa tat-Tork, which is a sweet sugary mixture of crushed and whole almonds. However short your stay, it’s possible to have a taste of island life in a variety of settings, from traditional villages to urban resorts, and a variety of ways – by foot or by boat. This is an ideal place for all the family, so if you’re looking for a holiday this summer, look no further and visit Malta! OCEAN VIEW 39


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CROATIA

My Cool Houseboat

We take a look at ‘My Cool Houseboat’ - a feel good style guide to unique and inspirational houseboats

Copenhagen Recycled Boat The moment when Jesper decided to buy this boat was instinctive and instantaneous. It was owned by friends, who had purchased it as a renovation project that turned out to be more onerous than anticipated, and they decided to sell it. It is moored in the disused shipyard Jesper owns and from which he runs his company dealing in reclaimed building materials. It is centrally located, only a 15-minute bike ride from the centre of town, and moored alongside other houseboats in a neighbourly community. The owners canoe and swim in the sheltered waters and share

an open sunny aspect over the Copenhagen waterfront. Originally a Dutch boat, it had arrived in Denmark during the 1950s. Jesper purchased it seven years ago but the work is still ongoing. His plan was to renovate the hull, then re-build and re-furnish the living quarters, utilising as many previously used materials as possible from his yard. The pieces themselves would inform his design decisions. Some are new, such as the large square double-glazed windows – surplus stock due to a slight mis-measurement on site but perfect for the boat Jesper

could build around them – while others are reclaimed and recycled. The floor was formerly in a sports arena but has been cut down to size and re-laid in a long herringbone pattern. The serious and expensive structural repairs to the hull have been completed, as has a separate apartment in the bow section, but the main living section of the boat is a work in progress. It can be difficult to construct a stylish living area on top of a traditional boat hull – the solution in many cases is a simple boxed-shaped section. However, Jesper has broken the mould OCEAN VIEW 41


BOOK EXTRACT

and created something more evocative and curvy, which is reminiscent of nature, the wind and the waves. The roof profile follows the curve of the hull and, with a sweeping overhang at the bow to soften the shape, it looks simple and elegant – it doesn’t shout.

Style Notes This is a boat that is not minimally furnished or decorated but it has created a balance between the exterior (the magnificent location, the light, the water and the landscape) and an interior that is beautiful yet thrifty and comfortable. Neither overwhelms the other. Jesper knew that flooding the interior with the characteristic Scandinavian soft light would be a challenge, especially in the darker hull section that was punctuated by only a few portholes. Using reclaimed building materials, he has maximised the light penetration in the bedroom, bathroom and kitchen areas with large windows and even a glass floor. And by furnishing the boat with vintage pieces, Jesper and Jette have created a very comfortable living space long enough, so Jesper welded two sections – a mix of vintage designer and distressed together to obtain the correct length. With industrial chic. another nod to industrial ship design, he has All the walls are painted white, with areas set the bottom of all the doors about 10cm of vertical wooden panelling created from (4in) off the ground, cutting up reclaimed as on a naval vessel doors that were not “The lamps and or submarine. The usable in their own right. decorative small objects stunning internal The decorative textured add even more colour doors to the bedroom surface runs from down were rescued from below up through the and sculptural elements an old military boat. ladder-way to the upper to the space, and they Labelled ‘torpedum’. sitting room and is reflect Jette’s affinity for They have a beautiful visible through the glass form and colour” green distressed floor. The fabric colours surface, heavy riveted are bright but flat, with edges and levered and secure fastenings – matt felt-type wools, but apart from the they’re a central feature. blue textured-wool 1950s sofa bought in The two 1950s kitchen units are utilitarian a Swedish auction, all the other textures in style and painted in the same muted flat are found within the building materials tones as the dining chairs and the textiles themselves. in the sitting room and kitchen diner. The The narrow-runged, red-oxide worn metal ladder is a piece that is usually used as a part lamps and decorative small objects add even more colour and sculptural elements of scaffolding. The lengths were not quite 42 OCEAN VIEW

to the space, and they reflect Jette’s affinity for form and colour. She used to work as a glass blower and scoured flea markets and auction houses to source exactly the right pieces for the boat. Meanwhile, Jesper’s love of reusing building materials to add light, patina and texture has made them both recognise that mixing furnishings with decorative pieces and bright, flat-coloured textiles is a recipe for success.


BOOK EXTRACT

Word on Water We’ve all read about independent bookshops struggling to survive against the Internet giants, but here’s an example of the business turning back to its roots. A curated selection of books, all second-hand copies, artfully displayed, affordably priced, the owners engaging in conversation with the office workers, travellers, canal walkers and tourists who make up the bulk of their customers. This is a first for me, too, seeing ‘reverse customers’ proudly giving the owners a copy of a recently finished, hardback pre-read book to sell on – it’s added to the shelves moments later. Word on the Water is moored just outside an exit from a busy London underground station. Three partners manage the 1920s Dutch barge bookshop, each with their own specialised role. There’s the ‘Captain’, boat owner Noye, a Frenchman who manages the boat and creates its artful displays; the OCEAN VIEW 43


BOOK EXTRACT

‘Doctor’, people-person Paddy who also deals with the admin; and John, the ‘Prof’, who’s worked in publishing for 22 years. As John says: “None of us could have done it on our own – there’s energy in our collaboration”. They each bring different skills and attributes, but all three of them love the water and live on boats. They met and became friends within the boat community and live nearby, often walking down the canal towpath to work. This rather glamorous boat was formerly home to Noye and his family in France. His original plan was to ship it to London in a container with the intention of selling it but, fortunately, there were no takers and the boat’s still here. And, as John describes their business: “We take pride in every aspect of selling the books we’ve chosen; we’ve had people walk in here and burst into tears at finding a copy they’ve been seeking for years… Everything doesn’t have to be the same as everything else.”

Style Notes Outside, it can be hard from certain angles to see the boat beneath the neatly piled and laid-out rows of books, stacked in different levels, lined up attractively overlapping each other, most of their covers facing forwards. Displayed in wooden crates, on long wooden planks, or in old plastic bread delivery trays, the books make a rich tapestry, a creative and artful shop window that begs to be looked at and pondered over. On top of the boat there’s a small performance space where, on summer evenings, jazz musicians play. An awning provides shelter to enable trading in all weathers. Inside, the boat is divided into three sections: all low-ceilinged and leading into another, each is like a comfortable, cosy sitting room. The book selections are themed for each room: children’s; mind, body and spirit; and classics. The titles aren’t filed alphabetically by author but ‘more in order of how long we have had them’. Bookshelves fill the space from floor to ceiling and wall to wall. They were 44 OCEAN VIEW


BOOK EXTRACT

created from old wardrobes with their doors removed, pieces of original furniture, wooden crates and shelves made of scaffold planks, all stained the same colour as the floorboards. Among them are comfortable well-worn leather chairs, a pile of flattened seat cushions and a built-in sofa with kelim throws and cushions. A wood-burning stove provides warmth, while the scent of joss sticks wafting out of the open window onto the towpath attracts passing customers. The boys have created a unique environment here, which is way beyond just a bookshop. This is its own world with its own life. Understanding the aesthetic is easy when Paddy tells me that “it feels like the twelfth-century thatched country cottage in which I was brought up”. It does, indeed, feel like home and you want to spend time here – pick a book off the shelf, sit down and read all afternoon. Even the open stern area of the boat feels like a sitting room. Star the dog lies on the worn cream leather banquette sofa beside a simple bio ethanol outdoor fireplace, and there’s a red well-worn leather library chair and bookshelves built all around. Even a temporary roof covering has been installed, on which sit the two solar panels that power the lights and music. The character of the original boat isn’t lost, but it’s an entirely creative reinterpretation of it, like an artisan travelling marketplace, which draws people in not only to look but also to step on board, chat, sit down and read. And rather than this being a personal space, it’s an environment to be shared by everyone.

My Cool Houseboat by Jane Field-Lewis, £14.99, published by Pavilion. Photography Richard Maxted ©

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Family Holidays: Ideas for Summer 2015

With so many family-friendly options - how do you come to a decision?

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FAMILY HOLIDAYS

I

t’s difficult to find a holiday that suits all ages, all family members and all preferences. You can’t make everyone happy if one person wants to relax on a beach in the tropics and another wants to spend a week skiing. So, it’s decision time! The key to harmonious family holidaying is compromise. Perhaps you can find somewhere that offers opportunities for relaxation as well as activities for the more adventurous

“The weather is another thing to consider. At this time of year, the Mediterranean is an ideal place to visit for sun, sand, sea and fantastic weather”

members of the family. Either way, to make the most of such a limited amount of time, you want to make it worthwhile. The weather is another thing to consider. At this time of year, the Mediterranean is an ideal place to visit for sun, sand, sea and fantastic weather. The Caribbean, although idyllic all year round is very humid during the summer months – their winter months, and also their hurricane season. Beach holidays are in no way few and far between. There are plenty

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Ocean

FAMILY HOLIDAYS

of destinations where you can find a picturesque beach, whether it be a sand or stone beach, on an idyllic Caribbean island, or close to a European city. These holidays often come with a range of accommodation options, from allinclusive resorts and hotels, to self-catering holiday homes and camping. Staycations are a great option for families who don’t want to travel anywhere too far. Places such as Devon and Cornwall, Brighton and Blackpool offer great seaside breaks. York, Cambridge and Oxford offer lovely city break options, and

for walkers there are numerous beautiful national park regions to choose from, such as the South Downs, Peak District and Lake District, for a secluded rural experience. According to a survey by Thomas Cook,

something to entertain the children, and perhaps indulge your own inner child’s wishes, Disneyland Paris, or even Disneyland Florida, is a fantastic holiday to consider. Nobody ever really grows out of the wonders of Disney, so if it’s non-stop fully provided magic you’re looking for, this might be a good option for you. Wherever you choose to take your family this year, remember to relax, try not to stress and enjoy the ride. After all – they grow up so fast!

“Wherever you choose to take your family this year, remember to relax, try not to stress and enjoy the ride. After all – they grow up so fast!”

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half of parents base their holiday destination on their children’s preferences (and two in 10 go so far as to hand full control to the kids!) If you’re mainly looking for


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Family Summer Holidays Family Adventure Holidays presents a range of fantastic options for the whole family to enjoy this summer It’s summer and the children are on their school holidays with itchy feet and an uncontainable excitement. Perhaps you’re a little bored with the usual beach resort holiday and want something more adventurous to keep your children occupied, without compromising your own enjoyment? That energy needs to go somewhere, so let off some steam with Family Adventure Holidays and you may even find you enjoy it just as much as the children.

plus a range of food options: half board, full board, or all inclusive. The team at Family Adventure Holidays provides great family activity holidays in France – from the spectacular canoe descent down the Ardèche gorge, to sunset fishing in kayaks – Lizzy Gogerly and sailing on the clear waters of the Mediterranean. From visiting the world sailing, snorkeling, mountain trekking famous Paris Disney resort, to the pilgrim and sea fishing. It also offers a choice of walk across the bay of Mont St. Michel. accommodation options, including bunk You can enjoy these adventurous holidays rooms, mobile homes, campsites and hotels, Family Adventure Holidays provides a huge range of activities for all the family, including: kayaking, white water rafting, windsurfing, paddle-boarding, canyoning,

“I dipped my toes in a watersports holiday with Family Adventure Holidays and, to my amazement, loved every second of it!”

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FAMILY HOLIDAYS in Normandy, Paris, the Ardeche, or on the Mediterranean coastline in Argelès-sur-Mer. The Normandy programme offers the chance to discover the many chateaus and beach sights, such as the Mont Saint Michel in the region, whilst the Ardeche programme gives the whole family a chance to experience white water rafting. If you’re after a sunny family beach holiday with the additional adventure here and there, Argeles sur Mer will be ideal for you. Argelès-sur-Mer is located in the Côte Vermeille at the foot of the Albères mountain range, just a short drive away from the Spanish border. It is the administrative centre of the district, gathering eight villages offering a huge amount of leisure, culture and sport itineraries, plus 35 sites, all great for walking, mountain-biking, or horseriding. Argelès-sur-Mer hosts 7km of wide, sandy beach, safe and supervised bathing spots, numerous rocky coves and diverse mountain ranges. The beach club is situated at the Plage des Pins, right in the heart of Argelès. From here you can sail, kayak, windsurf and paddleboard with the Pyrenees Mountains which provide a stunning backdrop. Additionally, The ‘Plage’ area is bordered by a wonderful long promenade set amongst pine trees, which is great for a long walk past the cafes, restaurants and boutique shops. At the Mediterranean Beach Club you can choose to either share your adventures with your children, or let them run free. Fishing and snorkel trips take place just a short paddle down the coast at the charming coves of Collioure and Paulliles. The action takes you into the Albères for a trek to the famous Puilaurens Castle and its stunning panoramic views of the undulating mountain range. This is also the destination for their white water rafting. Navigating the gorges and rapids of the River Aude, this session is guaranteed to have the whole family grinning from ear-to-ear. The team is very reliable with a great sense of fun and adventure, as well as a safety-first attitude. Heading south, you will find the Marina, a great place for seafood lovers and a lovely

place to visit in the evenings. The marina has numerous squares, shops, restaurants and entertainment events throughout the summer. Separate from Argelès sur Mer is Argelès Village. This is a typical Catalan village, with a brightly coloured environment and a maze of narrow streets, a church and crenelated belltower (14th C.), ramparts made of ‘cayroux’, traditional markets, handicrafts and festivals. At the campsite at Argelès sur Mer, you can enjoy a wonderful watersports programme, which includes windsurfing, sailing and kayaking, all organised and supervised by the experienced Mediterranean Adventure team at Family Adventure Holidays. The campsite itself is set in wonderful pinewoods and offers a huge variety of facilities and activities. On entering the site you will be greeted by tennis courts and a huge swimming complex with four pools, a bridged island and many water features. As you delve deeper into the campsite you will find a 5-a-side court, football pitch, gym, table tennis and of course, petanque! Evening entertainment is also available each night for the whole family, such

“Family Adventure Holidays are big on safety and I soon learnt that their emphasis on foreseeing potential problems meant that I could relax” - Johnny Morris

as talent shows, campfires and sports tournaments. If you prefer a more leisurely pace to your holiday, they also offer a wine tour or a sunset fishing trip. This is a holiday with a difference that you’ll never forget. So book your summer holiday now by calling 01273 803030 or emailing enquiries@ familyadventureholidays.com OCEAN VIEW 51


Creative Commons - Beverley Goodwin

Brighton

Britain by the Sea The top seaside staycation destinations for the summer

Brighton Brighton in East Sussex is an iconic beachside resort, packed with heritage and culture with an eclectic mix of glamour and fun. There are plenty of things to do and see here, from the historical Royal Pavilion, to the family-friendly Sea Life Centre – and of course the famous pier with its doughnut stalls and fairground rides. Don’t miss Brighton’s answer to the London Eye, the 360i, from which you can enjoy a fantastic vantage point over the city and its bustling stretch of seafront. The beach itself, although pebbled, attracts tourists from every walk of life during the summer months. When the sun is out, Brighton Beach becomes a hub of activity, with 52 OCEAN VIEW

people picnicking on the pebbles, enjoying ice creams on the promenade and even swimming in the chilly English Channel waters. Wander down the famous North Laines and you’ll find market stalls each day of the week, as well as quirky independent shops selling all manner of bits and bobs from ancient Indian-inspired incense and jewellery to vegetarian shoes. The Royal Pavilion, with its spectacular domes and spires is a must-visit on your Brighton trip. You can have a wander around this grand building and learn all about its heritage, including how a building that looks like the Taj Mahal ended up in East Sussex.

There is also a huge creative scene in Brighton. Art Festivals, gallery exhibitions, museums and comedy, theatre and film events are happening all year round. The Theatre Royal hosts a wide range of theatre productions, inviting you to see some of the world’s greatest plays, musicals and ballets in an intimate setting. The Brighton Centre also hosts famous musicians from a wide variety of genres, from contemporary pop to classical. Eastbourne Eastbourne is the sunniest place in Britain thanks to its unique microclimate. It hosts a four-mile stretch of dazzling coast curving from Beachy Head to Pevensey Bay. There


Creative Commons - Kyle Taylor

“Eastbourne is the sunniest place in Britain thanks to its unique microclimate. It hosts a four-mile stretch of dazzling coast curving from Beachy Head to Pevensey Bay”

Weymouth

are palm trees, tea dances in the Winter Gardens ballroom, rows of grand Victorian terraces and the famous pier, which is still open after catching fire in summer 2014. For those after a quiet beachside holiday, think of Eastbourne. Its pier is one of Britain’s finest – all rotundas and delicate wrought iron, strings of light bulbs and a curious little camera obscura that opens to the public in summer. The chalk cliffs of Beachy Head - the highest point on the south coast - are within hiking distance and offer a fantastic view over the whole coastal town. This is a great place for walks, wildlife watching and photography. Eastbourne is situated within walking distance of the best of the South Downs National Park: the Seven Sisters Country Park, Birling Gap and Cuckmere Valley. The Seven Sisters comprises of 280 hectares of chalk cliffs, a meandering river valley and open chalk grassland. It is a popular place for a number of outdoor activities including walking, bird-watching, cycling and canoeing. One minute you can be walking on ancient downland, the next you could be rockpooling below towering cliffs of chalk. Spectacular, unspoilt views of the sea can be seen from all angles. At the clifftop is a café, shop and visitor centre for a break after your walk. The beach below is also ideal for seaside picnics with its rock pools and areas of pebbles and sand. It is a great example of

Creative Commons - Duncan

Brighton

Eastbourne

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Cromer

a marine nature reserve. Birling Gap is a hidden gem here and is a great area for a more secluded walk. Cuckmere Valley is just a bit further along from the Gap, and reaches the sea with a lovely riverside walk down to the beach and stunning views of the dramatic Seven Sisters cliffs, which have starred in many films (for example, Atonement).

Weymouth offers the perfect base for exploring one of the UK’s most picturesque counties – Dorset. Weymouth has a plethora of fun things to offer the whole family, all within a

sculptures from some of the world’s most exciting artists. As well as the sand sculptures on display, visitors can also make their own sculptures and younger children can play in Sandworld’s dedicated play area. On the beach itself, children are well taken care of, with traditional Punch and Judy shows, donkey rides and a whole host of other fun activities. Safety is paramount at Weymouth Beach; lifeguards are on duty along the beach from May to September. Weymouth’s golden sand beach stretches for three miles along the coastline and is often referred to as one of the most

“Weymouth has a plethora of fun things to offer the whole family, all within a relatively short distance from the town itself ”

Weymouth As one of the UK’s most beautiful seaside resorts, located on the Jurassic Coast with a warmer than average climate, Weymouth offers a wealth of activities and attractions to people of all ages. 54 OCEAN VIEW

relatively short distance from the town itself. The Sea Life Centre is a major attraction as is the newest addition to this seaside resort, the award winning Sandworld, which features stunning sand


BRITAIN BY THE SEA

Brighton

Brighton

beautiful beaches in the British Isles. As such, it offers spectacular and panoramic views across the bay across to Guernsey and Jersey, which you can also get a ferry across to if you so wish. For those just wanting to relax, there’s nothing better than soaking up the sun and swimming in the beautiful waters, and for those wanting something a bit more active, a variety of water-sports are available, with equipment available for hire. If it’s raining and you are looking for things to do indoors in Weymouth you could visit Brewers Quay or the seafront amusements. If you like fishing then Weymouth is a Mecca for all types of sea fishing. The stone pier is ideal for beginners and expert fisherman alike to catch a variety of species.

Cromer Cromer is situated on the very edge of Norfolk, on the north coast and is one of its best assets. The beach is a big draw for people wanting a holiday at the seaside, but there’s plenty more to see and do here also. The Norfolk coast is famous for its tasty crabs, wide open beaches, its traditional pier and seaside theatre productions. The seaside town is rich with its fishing heritage and elegant Victorian architecture. The Parish Church takes poll position in the town, dominating the skyline with a tower that extends 160m. If you think you can make it up the 172 steps to the top, you will be greeted by a beautiful view of the town. Like the church, the pier’s Pavilion Theatre has been a Cromer institution for more than

100 years, and still puts on shows throughout the year. In Cromer you will find a vibrant Norfolk town with a wide variety of cafes, restaurants, shops and accommodation, all independently owned and many passed down through the ages from parents to children. There’s also a wide selection of local art galleries, homeware stores, ladies and gents fashion and fashion accessory shops with trinkets that you will find hard to buy anywhere else. For a stroll from the beach, there is a path along the coast, with Holt Country Park only 14 miles away. A coastal cycle route to Kings Lynn also passes the beach, which is an ideal way of seeing the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty just adjacent to Cromer. OCEAN VIEW 55


Best Honeymoon Destinations in the Indian Ocean By Jane Anderson, Editor of 101 Honeymoons

The Indian Ocean archipelagos of the Maldives and Seychelles, and the single island destination of Mauritius have raised the bar when it comes to exotic luxury honeymoons. If you have the budget, you can expect wow-factor suites and over-water villas, impressive cuisine, breathtaking spas, outstanding watersports and a growing emphasis on indigenous culture and conservation. Sri Lanka too offers Indian Ocean beaches 56 OCEAN VIEW

with a wealth of culture and safari added (yes, you really can spot leopards, elephants, wild buffalo and more). There are a growing number of five-star hotels and some standout architectural resorts along with an increasing choice of historic tea plantation hotels and boutique properties. You can combine Sri Lanka with the Maldives – they are just an hour’s flight apart - and you can get married in Sri Lanka, which you can’t do in the Maldives.

Madagascar has a more rustic standard of accommodation, but here it’s all about nature and adventure, as this is one of the world’s most biodiverse places. Professor Brian Cox devoted an entire episode of Wonders of Life to it. Zanzibar offers Indian Ocean with an intoxicating Arabic and African influence, with a good range of five-star hotels, amazing castaway beaches and rich history of the spice route.


Mozambique has one of Africa’s most idyllic Indian Ocean coastlines. After years of civil war, it has emerged as a stunning destination – Africa’s answer to busier and more developed destinations like Mauritius, with the added attraction of safari and beach. Hotels tend to be more toes-in-the-sand four-stars without all the slickness of the big three (Mauritius, Maldives and Seychelles). Honeymooners should remember that all these destinations regard newlyweds as one of their most important target markets, and consequently there is much competition between resorts to provide the most memorable and romantic experience. The key to getting your Indian Ocean honeymoon right is to choose the right island and the right resort for you. There are many tour operators specialising in the Indian Ocean who can offer good advice. I would recommend Audley Travel, Barefoot Traveller, Beachcomber Tours, Just Seychelles, Exsus, Hayes & Jarvis, Original Travel, Rainbow Tours, Tropical Sky and Turquoise Holidays. Mauritius This single island nation is a peaceful cultural melting pot of Indian, Chinese, African and French influences and is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. It has carefully crafted a high-end tourism profile with many four and five star hotels lining its coastline. If you want a fly and flop honeymoon with extremely high levels of service, good cuisine and wonderful spas and golf, Mauritius is the place for you. It also has a growing choice of adventure activities in its spectacular jungly domains and peaks, such as mountain biking and climbing. Resorts here have the art of caring for honeymooners and couples wanting to tie the knot down to a fine art. Care is taken to make you feel special, with some resorts such as Beachcomber hotels insisting on only one wedding per day at their hotels, which includes Trou aux Biches, a beautiful tropical village style resort on one of Mauritius’ best beaches. Couples can tie the

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knot in the branches of a banyan tree. LUX* Le Morne is a good example of a more contemporary resort which has some innovative touches such as pop-up experiences like retro-styled ice cream vendors, or a cinema screening under the stars. If you’re looking for value try the four-star Centara Poste Lafayette Resort & Spa – a luxury hotel in an unspoilt location – where a week’s half-board with flights comes in at under £1,000 per person.

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Seychelles This magical archipelago made up of both coral and granite islands is nature at her most exotic and lovely. The fragile eco system is made up of lush mountains, impossibly white sand beaches and azure blue sea and is home to three main islands of Mahe, Praslin and La Digue, the latter of which has no cars. Praslin is sometimes referred to as the original Garden of Eden with its Vallee de Mai Nature Reserve, the home of the coco de mer. Honeymooners can stay on the main island of Mahe at five star resorts including Banyan Tree Seychelles, Constance Ephélia or the Kempinski Seychelles, or combine Praslin with resorts ranging from Raffles Seychelles to the more affordable Black Parrot Suites. There are many smaller hotels and guesthouses that have a lot of local appeal. A major draw of the Seychelles for those who can afford it, is its exclusive private island resorts, the most sought after of which includes Fregate Island Private, and North Island, which celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2013. Both have a major eye on conservation as well as extreme luxury. Other private island resorts include Denis Private Island, Desroches Island, Sainte Anne Resort & Spa and Hilton Seychelles Labriz on Silhouette Island. If you come all the way to the Seychelles, it’s a good idea to book a OCEAN VIEW 57


two or even three-centre honeymoon with some island hopping as each island is very different. And if you can’t afford to spend your entire honeymoon on a private island, you can add a few days at the end for a special treat. It’s also worth taking the time to explore some of the uninhabited islands such as Bird Island, which is given over to conservation. Maldives Of all the Indian Ocean honeymoon destinations, it’s the Maldives that is pushing the boundaries of luxury and fantasy. Of its 1,190 tiny islands, 200 are inhabited and 105 of those are resort islands. Tourism is the major source of income here and with little else but the beach and incredible diving and snorkelling, resorts have become increasingly innovative in keeping honeymooners entertained – be that underwater nightclubs, fabulous spas, floating restaurants or villas with glass floors so that you can view the coral and tropical fish as you pad across to your outside shower and private infinity pool. NIYAMA Maldives is one such resort. It takes honeymoon pampering to a whole new

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level with secluded beach and water studios and pavilions, most of which have at least one private pool. You can also spend a night on a luxurious dhoni (traditional boat) with a personal chef and butler to look after you both. Subsix is the world’s first underwater nightclub and the LIME Spa is open 24 hours. NIYAMA is also following the trend of encouraging guests to get more involved in marine conservation with its own marine biology lab. Huvafen Fushi is another stunning resort and one of the best for barefoot luxury. Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa, is the only five-star resort in the Maldives with its own private executive terminal just five minutes away by speedboat. It also features the first golf course in the Maldives. By their very private island nature, the cost of honeymooning in the Maldives can add up as you are a captive audience for all meals, drinks and entertainment on your island. There has been a recent increase in the number of high-end all-inclusive resorts, which means that you don’t have to worry about your bill on checkout. At Meeru Island Resort, couples get four-star quality at three-star prices – take

the all-inclusive option and look out for complimentary room upgrades. Kuredu Island Resort is a four-star allinclusive, and Centara Grand Island Resort & Spa offers 4.5 star all-inclusive deals. The wonderful LUX* Maldives also has an allinclusive five-star option. Sri Lanka Culturally rich Sri Lanka lends itself to a touring honeymoon. Begin in Colombo, for example, and travel to the incredible Rock Fortress at Sigiriya, visiting the world’s only orphanage for elephants en-route. The World Heritage Site of Kandy is a must, as is the spectacular scenery of the tea plantations and hill country.

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Alternative Indian Ocean More adventurous honeymooners will love the Mozambique for its African charm, beautiful coastal lodges and sense of discovering somewhere largely unknown. Madagascar is a revelation for honeymooners who seek nature at its most spectacular and are not looking for five-star pampering. Zanzibar is an exotic mix of

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Jane’s Insider Tips Whilst you can easily tie the knot on Mauritius or in the Seychelles, there are no legal weddings for foreigners in the Maldives, only blessings. Consequently many couples find that a wedding in Sri Lanka followed by a honeymoon in the Maldives is a great option. A safari combined with an Indian Ocean beach paradise is a popular honeymoon option. South Africa works well with Mauritius and Tanzania can be combined well with Zanzibar. Let your tour operator and hotel know this is your honeymoon in advance. Good tour operators know that in the current economic climate, everyone expects value for money even at the luxury end. As honeymooners they also want you to become loyal customers. So ask for a room upgrade or even an upgrade to half board. Honeymooners often receive fruit, flowers or champagne in the room on arrival. Look for good honeymoon packages with extra treats like sunset cruises, private dinners on the beach and spa treatments. Get help with tour operator gift lists where friends and family can contribute to your honeymoon – Audley Travel, Just Seychelles, Exsus, Hayes & Jarvis, Rainbow Tours, Tropical Sky and Turquoise Holidays for example.

Africa and Arabia with the intriguing Stone Town and castaway resorts along its coast. Jane Anderson, 101 Honeymoons Jane is Editor of the UK’s leading independent honeymoon website, 101 Honeymoons. (www.101honeymoons.co.uk) An award-winning travel writer, Jane has spent many years researching and writing about honeymoon destinations. She was Travel Editor at You & Your

Wedding magazine for 10 years and regularly writes for leading newspapers and magazines including The Sunday Times Travel Magazine, Prima and Elle. Jane is also author of A Place to Wed, a book about getting married abroad. Jane’s 101 recommendations on 101 Honeymoons cover a vast range of ideas from cosy cottages in the UK to extravagant over-water villas with a private pool in the Indian Ocean and Africa’s dreamiest

safari lodges. There are honeymoons to suit all budgets and Jane has included recommendations month-by-month so site visitors can not only find the best places to go but also the best time to go. Jane, her partner and two children travel frequently around the UK, Europe and further afield. www.101honeymoons.co.uk OCEAN VIEW 59


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Your Stories Enjoy Croatia... Marina Vujicic gives advice on how to enjoy authentic Croatia from a local’s perspective

As a Croatian, if I tell you Croatia is a beautiful country, would you believe me? Maybe not. But what if I tell you I have visited many other countries, seen America, been to the Bahamas, Bermuda, travelled to Greece, Italy, the Balkans, and only after that did I realise that I live in a beautiful country. Many parts of my country I had never visited or seen before but then I started working in a tourist agency. That made me want to get to know my own country better, so I could tell my guests where to go and what to do. Just recently, I discovered the Gorski kotar region, which I never imagined would be so amazing and adventurous. Many people, when thinking about Croatia, have a view of a nice long beach, sun and crystal clear Adriatic Sea. Of course they do! However, not many people know that in Croatia you actually have so much OCEAN VIEW 61


YOUR STORIES: CROATIA more. Just an hour away from that amazing coast, you can discover all the beauties of the mountain region of Gorski kotar. Gorski kotar is not just a mountain region, but a region that combines all important elements in order to have a good vacation in this relatively small place. Hiking over the National Park Risnjak, from which you get to see Kvarner bay and islands, that will leave you speechless. Here in the woods of the National Park Risnjak lives a very rare species that the Park was named after, the lynx (in Croatian: Ris). If you want to feel adrenaline running through your body, then you should try rafting on the river Kupa. Kupa is the river that has a source and confluence in Croatia and forms a natural border between Croatia and Slovenia. Rafting down this river, you’ll get to see the beauties of the Kupa valley from the other side, as the river sees it! Your friendly hosts will make your day just more amazing with a delicious barbecue after a ride. When in Gorski kotar, act like a Goranin and eat like a Goranin. They eat a lot of wild animal meat, but also know how to use and prepare edible herbs and plants. In the summer months you can pick all the berries that grow here in the wood: blueberries, blackberries and cranberries. If you’re in any restaurant in Gorski kotar during summer, you’ll surely be offered a nice homemade strudel of berries. In autumn, everyone goes again to the forest to pick mushrooms. Be careful because there are many toxic mushrooms and only well-versed locals know the difference, and which ones to pick! When winter comes, Gorani eat dried sausages, bacon, pork, veal and lamb. That’s the secret of keeping them strong during long winters when snow covers the whole region. You can go on the ski slopes to enjoy the snow or just sledge down the beautiful white covered ground. Many Croatians go for a winter holidays in Gorski kotar, renting a holiday home close to the ski slope to ski or just to enjoy staying on the mountain in idyllic natural landscape. To those who dream of having a white Christmas, rent a house for the Christmas holidays or New Year and spend it with family and friends in 62 OCEAN VIEW

the mountains. I personally, adore Gorski kotar in the spring. The awakening of nature leaves me speechless; trees of green, red roses too, I see them bloom… what a wonderful world! I enjoy exploring Gorski kotar in the spring with my daughter. I find it perfect for a family active holiday! Renting a bike is a great option. Many caves, lakes, picnic areas like canyon Kamačnik, Zeleni Vir and many other beautiful landscapes will take your breath away and you will just be so happy that you took your family to Gorski kotar. Don’t be a typical tourist that comes to Croatia only for sun and sea, explore MORE, do MORE, enjoy MORE! You’ll have so much MORE to tell people when you get back home. Croatia really is MORE than you think. If you have a travel story you would like to share and you’d like to get involved, please email jenny@oceanviewuk.co.uk

“I enjoy exploring Gorski kotar in the spring with my daughter. I find it perfect for a family active holiday! Renting a bike is a great option. Many caves, lakes, picnic areas”


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