STRENGTH THROUGH ADVERSITY . 1940S STYLE . BTS . INTERVIEW WITH LAURA BLAIR . SPRING COLOURS
EDWARD CRUTCHLEY . MATTY BOVAN . TEMPERLEY LONDON . FASHION SCOUT . LINUS LEONARDSSON
ISSUE 62 27TH MAY 2021
THE GREEN ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar Advertising enquiries - Salvatore Azzarelli and Matilda Kallinikou - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Myron Macapagal, Arne Lawrence, Jakko Tikkanen, Isabella Martinetti, Mary Matthews, Ignatius Bimo, Omar Shaker, Luciam Buium, F Emiliano Matei, Maria Gutu, Tommaso Aprilino, Sara Giacomelli, Alessia Piam, Cecile, Keon Chow, Aaron Holder, Nickklan Lewis, Anastasia Ilyunina, Nadezhda Popova, Anna Katsadze, Yana Khazova, Polina Anokhina, Medea, Alena Oreshkina, Svetlana Anokhina, Nigina Vasina, Seeun Kim, Vivienne Monique, Mitch Desunia, Ram Eagle Photoworks, Reychelle Anne Munoz-Mendiola, House of Ikons, Kseniia Panova, Karavaeva Yana, Pietro Recchia, Merilin Toomra, Parnell Mooney, Lyudmila Stahova, Nastya Goryacheva, Nastya Savchenko, Svetlana Maksimova, Angela Kuzmina, Maria Poddubnaya, Anna Volinskaya, Irina Makotsina, Anna Chernykh, Alina Naumlinskaya, Aida Rubtsova, Ekaterina Shutova, Yaroslava Chernyavskaya, Diana, Edward Crutchley, Matty Bovan, Christian Cowan, Adrienne Raquel, Linus Leonardsson, Fashion Scout, Sabirah, Temperley London, Rabi Sultan Special thanks to Laura Blair. Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2020 ambassadors are Hannah Lewis and Orpheus Sloma
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CONTENTS
24
8 VISUALS
Linus Leonardsson
96
Fashion Scout - Made in Armenia
105 113
Hairstyle, Like a Work of Art...
8
Temperley London
My Works
17
WORDS
Aaron Holder - Trinidad and Tobago
24
New Faces
31
Portfolio Piece
37
Boleyn Girl
39
Unicorn
42
Merilin
53
Parnell Mooney
59
Style (Conscious) Guide: Growing Green
63
Runes
67
Edward Crutchley
79
Matty Bovan
82
Christian Cowan
90
Logo Design Winner Announcement and Interview
4
How to Incorporate Colour Into Your Spring Wardrobe
15
Deeper Roots: Blooming in the Face of Adversity
29
A Retrospective on 1940s Fashion
50
Make Way! The World isn't Going 64 to Get Tired of BTS Anytime Soon. F.R.I.E.N.D.S - The One Where Fashion History was Made
77
Interview with Laura Blair: What it's Really Like to be a Fashion Influencer
86
Your Style Horoscope
101
The Big Question
118
s ' r o t i d E r e t t le Welcome to another brand new issue of London Runway – but, what’s this? A new logo? You may have spotted a change on our cover, and that’s because this month we’re celebrating the winner of our logo design competition! We go back to normal next month, but what a great effort from our winning designer. If you’ve been keeping up with us on social media, then you’ll also know that we’ve been very busy this month casting for the new round of the Face of London Runway 2021. This is a super exciting event for us and always one of our highlights of the year. This year, we’ve got even more reason to get excited! We’re pleased to announce our first sponsors for the event: ChariTea and LemonAid. What better way to kick off the contest than with a collaboration that supports a Fairtrade, organic, and charitable
beverage? Addressing inequality in the fashion sector has been one of our aims for a long time, and with this sponsorship, we’re also turning our gaze on the food and drink sector. Our contestants will be sure to stay refreshed when we move to our inperson round of the competition over the summer! This month, the British Fashion Council finally announced a return to in-person shows in September. However, they seem committed to running digital-only shows alongside the physical catwalks at least for the foreseeable future. This is great news on both fronts, as it means Fashion Week will remain accessible for those who are unable to attend inperson shows – but it also means we’re slowly returning to normal.
London Fashion Week in its usual form will also mean some thought is given to the ways in which it can be improved. A sustainable catwalk featuring diverse models is something we dream of every day, and while we get to see them from time to time, they are certainly not yet the norm. Will they become the majority when September rolls around? We can only keep our fingers crossed. In the meantime, there’s more digital shows to come in June – and just to whet your appetite, we’ve got some more galleries this month from the most recent shows. Enjoy those as well as our ‘green’ theme – which we’ve interpreted not just as a colour, but also as a symbol of growth and of sustainability. Enjoy -
Of course, ‘normal’ doesn’t always mean good. We can hope that the return of
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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LONDON RUNWAY
LOGO DESIGN
In March, we launched our logo competition, giving a chance to talented creative minds to show their skills to our audience. The competition was open to anyone over 18 wishing to get hands-on with an exciting yet rewarding graphic design project. The prize was to have an interview published on our pages and a featured portfolio, plus the logo on our cover – did you spot it? There were no limits to the logo design, as long as it represents our core values. Hence, equality, diversity/ representation, and sustainability are the key inspiring elements for this competition.
The winner is Myron Macapagal, a graphic designer and photographer who saw his photos published in our February issue. You can hear more from this talented creative over the next pages!
The silver medal is awarded to Arne Lawrence, who proposed a black and white versatile logo perfect to be also transformed in a photoshoot 3D prop.
Isabella Martinetti’s logo features a hanger composed of three arrows that don’t touch each other. This shape represents a circular approach, a vital element in today’s fashion.
The bronze medal is for Jakko Tikkanen. Diversity and representation found a place in the letters’ unconventional yet harmonic placement, while the timeless logo font, neutral and never boring, is a symbol of sustainability. Mary Matthews’s entry showed two hands symbolising community, enclosing a flower representing fashion and beauty.
Ignatius Bimo’s logo conveys a sense of representation with a touch of timeless trendiness given by the red high heels. Overall the logo is easily memorable thanks to the vivid colour palette.
We had some fabulous entries, and after narrowing it down to just the top six, YOU had your say on your favourite! Now, let’s hear from Myron Macapagal about the winning design and his career so far.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Do you consider yourself more as a photographer or a graphic designer?
What was the inspiration behind your winning logo design?
What style of photography do you enjoy doing the most?
I would consider myself half of a graphic designer and half of a photographer to make me whole. I enjoy doing both because of the sense of fulfilment that I get every time I finish a project. For me they show two different sides of artistry. With graphic design I have the freedom and flexibility to use my imaginations to create artworks, photography on the other hand challenges me to perfectly capture and preserve emotions to create memories. Also working as a graphic designer puts food on my plate and my photography feeds my soul.
London being a fashion city is an icon by itself but of course the infamous Big Ben standing tall and mighty will always be the best representation of British Culture. Having stood the tests of time and standing witness to monarchs that have come and gone it deserves to be recognised all over the world. It is a symbol of power and superiority like what the magazine represents.
I tried to expose myself to different styles of photography but it is portrait photography that I enjoy doing most. With portraiture I get to capture emotions, attitude, moods and expressions of the subject using lights, props, backgrounds and poses. A portrait shot that is perfectly captured is a photo that tells a story, if you ever heard the phrase "a photo that you can hear" that is how I want portrait photos to come out. And hats off also to my DAMUHAN EXCLUSIVE Brotherhood Behind Lens for the inspiration, support and build up and for the non stop projects, learning and sharing of ideas on how to make them as great images.
Where did you learn your graphic design skills? I took up architecture back in the Philippines and that's where I started to be keen on details and specifics but it was in Dubai where I took short courses in Basic Graphic Design. When we moved to Canada I had the chance to go back to school, so I took a Graphic Design course at Reeves College, and this helped me further expand my knowledge and develop new skills and techniques that I use in my present job. What was your path to the career you have now? In terms of work experience I have been through many. I've worked with different companies in the Philippines and abroad. I tried retail, marketing and designs, different departments but all requiring the same skills of being artistic and creative. Experiences from these jobs gave me an edge for creating designs that are more catchy and appealing to clients and the general public. Currently I am working with LEONAITER VENTURES LTD a Minuteman Press franchise under Terry and Nairobys, I'm fortunate to work for a company that is supportive and treats me as family. My next goal is to gear up for what would be the next step in my career. I am building up my own portfolio in both design and photography so I can have my own production as a reward and fulfilment from years of experience and hard work.
How can someone become a graphic designer if they are interested in trying it out? To become a graphic designer you need to have a mind of an artist. Other than having the skills, knowledge and proper materials you must be determined to do something better than what you did last. You need to think out of the box so your projects will be unique and well thought of. Patience is essential in this line of work and so is time because there are no shortcuts in art. As they say Rome wasn't built in a day.
How do you deal with criticism and bad feedback for your work, either photography or graphic design? I am open to criticism and yes even bad feedback because I understand that's how one will improve in his craft. In my case I may have been doing graphic design for a long time already but I still consider myself a work in progress. Systems and methods are continuously being updated so it is always better to equip yourself with the latest version and "know-how" all the time. And the best way to get to know this is by listening to comments and feedback because eventually you will also learn from them. What are your major inspirations in your creative work? In everything that I do family is always my inspiration. They are my weakness and my strength. My dreams, my achievements are all for them. I never hide my failures from my kids because I want them to learn from that so they will become better versions of themselves.
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How has the last year been for you? Like for most people, last year was a very challenging year for me as well. For a time, my manager had to slow down because no clients were coming in. Our pre-scheduled shoots for events were cancelled. The fear of the unknown was real! But staying home gave me the time that I needed to organise all my photos, learn new things and be with family. The time spent with them is priceless. What's important is that we are healthy and safe so I am still thankful for that. What is your proudest achievement so far? My proudest achievement is when my photo was published for the first time and then another and another until I reached my 58th international publish in the span of seven months. It's like a validation that I am indeed a photographer because my photos are now recognised by a wider audience. But once this magazine is out with my winning logo and story in it, this will take place of my proudest achievement to date. Also thank you to all who supported me by voting and liking my entry to win in this competition, it was indeed a quite good experience.
Where can our readers find more of your work? Instagram @myronmacapagal and myronmacapagal.kavyar.site on my photography work and myrondesignphotography.myportfolio. com/portfolio for both Graphic Design and Photography, I need to update this one now adding this special feature. Enjoy this glimpse of some selected works from Myron's portfolio!
Photograph by Maria Cecilia Macapagal
LONDON RUNWAY
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HAIRSTYLE, LIKE A WORK OF ART... Fantasy hairstyles always take our breath away, and this summer is one of the major trends. The hair becomes a work of art and turns into extravagant sculptural hairstyles. From Maria Antoaneta-style hairstyles of impressive height to wildflower sculptures that brought summer to the catwalks, the avant-garde style is certainly the most impressive. Diversity creates trends in 2021, while all hair types are in the spotlight. Summer trends are based on simplicity, elegance, but also drama, avant-garde and exaggerated volume. Photography - Omar Shaker Photography @realomarshaker Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Lucian Buium @lucianbuium Stylist: F Emiliano Matei @mateiemiliano Model: Maria Gutu @m_gutuu
The aesthetic considerations of a hairstyle can be determined by many factors, such as the physical attributes of the subject and the desired self-image or the artistic instincts of the stylist.
A bun hairstyle can make you look beautiful and stylish even when wearing eyeglasses.
If until now bun hairstyles had a base from which to start, in 2021 this type of hairstyle requires much more than that, making each hairstyle unique, to look like a work of art.
HOW TO INCORPORATE COLOUR INTO YOUR SPRING WARDROBE Katie Abson presents tips and tricks to help build your colour confidence this spring. As vibrant and beautiful as it is, colour can be intimidating. If you’re anything like me, colour can be a scary thing to reach for when you’re used to neutrals, blacks, and greys, formally worn to death this past winter. Neutrals can be a real comfort, especially when you know you feel relaxed and confident in your current colour pallet – and there’s nothing wrong with that! But this spring, colour is all the rage and you might just be considering adding a splash of pastel, a block dye, or even neon here and there. Or, perhaps you are a rainbow-lover, but unsure of which colour clashes with the next and are wondering: how much colour is too much colour? (The answer is there is no such thing, by the way!) However colour fits into your life, here are a few handy tips to know where to start. START SMALL WITH ACCESSORIES The key to slowly building up your colour confidence is to start small. It can feel a little harsh or awkward to go straight into something you’re not ready for, even with clothes. Building your wardrobe up step-by-step will help settle your nerves so you can continue with self-assurance. Accessories are a great way to do this. Add a touch of colour to your outfit with a bright handbag, a pair of earrings, a watch, a hat, or even some colourful socks. If you can match all of your accessories together, you can create an original look without discarding your most beloved outfits.
BUILD ONE BY ONE Start with a colour you feel comfortable in. Whether that be a favourite pair of black jeans, or a cherished beige jumper, pick an item you know you feel good in. You can then add a splash of colour with the contrasting top or bottom half. For example, slip on a pastel purple camisole with your black jeans, or a pair of bright green corduroy trousers with your favourite white blouse. That way, you can experiment with an unfamiliar colour without feeling completely out of your comfort zone. GO MONOCHROME There is no denying that a monochromatic outfit is a statement piece – and super easy to put together. If you find you have a lot of the same colour in your wardrobe, why not throw them all together to create a cohesive, put-together look? Mix different shades and textures to distinguish one piece from the other, such as a ribbed turtle neck or a velvet jacket over denim jeans. A look that is sure to catch the eye is the formidable power suit. This combination, whether to walk down the street or to state your case in the boardroom, never fails to assert power and poise. Choose a powder blue power suit and pair it over the top of a white tshirt, a blue bodysuit in a shade lighter, or simply nothing at all. Some of the most memorable power suits to have walked the red carpet require nothing underneath, the lapel of the jacket providing cover to obtain modesty, but cut low enough to embrace confidence in one's sexuality. There is power in both coverage and nudity – the choice is yours! If you struggle to find a top, trouser, jacket, shoes, and accessories all in one
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Image via Unsplash colour, there are other ways to achieve a monochromatic look. Jumpsuits are one of the easiest pieces of clothing to throw on and it achieves an all-in-one look instantly. All you need to think about is shoes – and if you don’t have them in a matching colour, pair the jumpsuit with white or black pumps, trainers or boots so the colour of the jumpsuit stands out. THE COLOUR WHEEL It is easy to assume we can all pair colours together with just one look at our wardrobes – but that’s just not true. It's harder than it looks. However, there is a handy tool you can use when you’re unsure which colour goes with what: the colour wheel. A colour wheel is used to determine the relationship between different shades. It was first developed by Sir Isaac Newton
LONDON RUNWAY
WHERE TO FIND ALL THESE GREAT COLOURS Colours are everywhere if you know where to look. Right now, stores are bursting with vibrant hues, soft pastels, jazzy patterns and much more. Zara has a rainbow of colours in-store and online currently, featuring bright green wide-leg trousers, tinted blue and yellow satin dresses, and cut-out knit crop tops. Asos also has a versatile selection of colours online, with an option to explore their Asos Design Must-Haves, featuring a tiger print jumpsuit, a lime green one shoulder long sleeve top, a bright orange blazer and a soft green smock dress. Make sure to select the responsible edit for clothes that are sustainably or responsibly sourced.
Image via Pexels in 1704 and has been advanced multiple times since, used by artists and fashion designers all over the world today. Use the wheel as a primary guide to matching colours, building upon them as you gain confidence. One way to use the wheel is to pick out colour temperatures, as shown on each half of the colour wheel. ‘Cold’ temperatures consist of blues and greens, colours associated with overcast light. Whereas ‘warm’ colours emanate sunset hues, such as reds, oranges and yellows. Start with a colour you feel comfortable with and select a shade to either side of the colour wheel to create an analogous look within the same colour temperature. If you’re looking to go bold, select complementary colours on opposite sides of the colour wheel. For example, pair violet trousers with a yellow top, or a forest green skirt with a burgundy jumper. By selecting complementary colours, each shade stands out on its own, achieving an exciting, comprehensive look.
Image via Pexels
To take a more sustainable route, charity shops across the UK are a wonderful place to search for your next spring purchase. Spend time rummaging through the aisles of your local charity shops, usually organised by size and category. Or, if you fancy a day out, head over to Brick Lane, home of London’s largest and most diverse vintage market. This treasure trove is loved by vintage buyers across the country; you are sure to find a variety of colours to suit every style and need there. WHY STOP THERE?
Image via Pexels Colour can be expressed through any aspect of your life – not just through clothes! Create bold and vibrant makeup looks to contrast a neutral outfit. Dye your hair your favourite colour and mix and match your outfits to suit the shade. I could go on! There are many tips and tricks out there to help guide you through the rainbow, but an important thing to remember is – at the end of the day, there are no rules. Colour is a form of expression, something to enhance and show off your personality. Wear what makes you feel happy and comfortable and confident – and you really can’t go wrong. If you enjoyed this article, you can follow more of Katie’s work on Twitter via @katieawriter.
Image via Pixabay
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MY WORKS Photography - Tommaso Aprilino @phtommasoaprilino Makeup Artist: Sara Giacomelli @saragiacomellimua Wardrobe Stylist/Fashion Designer: Alessia Piam @alessia.piam Model: Cecile @cecile_ihp
Ceclie wears: White polyester dress
Ceclie wears: Long yellow polka dot skirt with short sleeveless Tiffany blazer and long gloves
Ceclie wears: Bodice with long tight skirt and boots
AARON HOLDER
TRINIDAD & TOBAGO Wardrobe Stylist/Creative Director/Fashion Designer - Keon Chow @keonchow Wardrobe Stylist/Creative Director/Male Model/Retoucher/ Photographer Aaron Holder @aaronholderofficial Creative Director/Photographer - Nickklan Lewis @lew.images
LONDON RUNWAY
DEEPER ROOTS: BLOOMING IN THE FACE OF ADVERSITY Inspired by the arrival of spring, Jessica Carvalho analyses what it truly means to ‘bloom’, and shares stories of not only inspiration, but also strength and perseverance.
I’m a firm believer that life – much like time – is composed of seasons. Someone’s winter could easily be someone’s summer, but one thing is certain; that very winter will pass, leaving the ice it brought along to thaw away, and flowers to bloom in its place. Sure, these flowers may look different than before, but they are even stronger, and even more beautiful. Our existence follows a similar pattern – hard times are a given, but they too shall pass and give way to good days, and we will always come out changed from the experience - still as stunning and resilient as ever. The adversities we face in our lives are just as multifaceted as we are, and this article will focus on three people who overcame their own winters, now using their spring to raise awareness and be a voice of change in a world working through its own snowstorms. Ironically, during the warm spring of May 2020, it suddenly turned cold. The racial tensions in the US reached a tipping point before spilling worldwide; a ‘balance’ that was due to be disrupted with every passing day. The murder of George Floyd was a wake-up call to the atrocious discrimination Black people face to this day, and it rang loudly for Natasha, all the way in the UK.
Known solely as her mononym, she is one of the co-organisers of the first UK Black Lives Matter protests, and the founder of All Lives Matter; the campaign which held weekly protests across the country for ten weeks, and the one which saw the toppling of the statue of slave trader Edward Colston in Bristol. Amidst all her activism, Natasha is still a student, but she is one of the few who have managed to unite the country in support of the Black Lives Matter movement. “We’ve managed to ride the momentum to form established teams in London, Manchester, Bristol and Birmingham,” Natasha says, and she is considering “venturing into politics” in the near future. What sets Natasha apart is that, despite these fantastic online and offline campaigns, spring isn’t quite here yet; Black people have been living through a never-ending winter for centuries, one that is riddled with tales of hardship and pain. However, Natasha is hope, a sign of change - one that not even the hardest snowfall could deter from blooming. The coldest season was also particularly gruelling for Dr Clara Barker. As a teen, she lived through Section 28 (which banned the promotion of homosexuality in school settings), meaning she grew up with no role
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models to look or relate to. Despite this she “always knew” she was transgender. In the late ‘80s, protests against Section 28 were rampant; this law came at a time the LGBTQ+ community was already dealing with the AIDS epidemic, only further targeting a sexual minority that was already struggling to cope. The implementation of the law took a heavy toll on Barker’s mental health at the time, and she suffered from “severe depression and suicidal thoughts”. Now fully transitioned, Dr Clara Barker has carved a name for herself not only as an LGBTQ+ activist, but also as an engineer and material scientist at the University of Oxford.
As a woman, Patsy Stevenson is undoubtedly used to winter; cities designed to be biased against women, keys between knuckles, avoiding secluded detours, home by dusk – a never-ending terms and conditions list every woman has known her entire life.
Science is an area which is still heavily male-dominated; their female counterparts are very rarely acknowledged or praised for their contributions. Dr Clara Barker is changing the narrative, nowadays a member of the university’s Department of Materials, and an advocate for women in STEM and LGBTQ+ diversity. “I was no longer pretending or hiding.” she recounts, the lab providing the perfect conditions for her to bloom into the person she was always destined to be.
Clapham Common was due to be the scene of a peaceful vigil in her memory until the arrival of the police, who began to make arrests. Stevenson recalls being “so scared”, and that she doesn’t know why she was “pushed to the ground so forcefully”. The very disruption of what would have been an emotive memorial for the death of a young woman is rather telling of the stance of not only the Metropolitan Police, but society as a whole. Women are always expected to make all arrangements just to
Stevenson became known as “the girl in the photo”, a striking image depicting her helplessly pinned to the ground by two police officers as she tried to pay her respects to the late Sarah Everard, after her remains were reportedly found in a woodland in Kent.
ensure their human right to life, liberty and security and even then, they are violated – sometimes by taking away our voice, sometimes by taking our life. These situations aren’t simply winter or summer; there periods of autumn and spring, in which all we can do is relentlessly fight the fight and stop ourselves from being the next woman being honoured at a memorial. It’s hard to lay a positive veil when we’re constantly battered with snowstorms, but the passage of the time is the only certain thing in life. With it, naturally, will come epic highs and absolute lows, but so will change. Every day, someone wakes up and decides to make change happen – the three stories mentioned are proof of that, each alike in adversities and growth. Though certain situations in our dayto-day life may be less serious and intermittent than those, it doesn’t take away from their seriousness and impact they can have on our wellbeing. One thing is certain, however; everything shall pass, and we’ll bloom yet again, stronger than before.
You can find more of Jessica’s work through her Instagram page, @whatjesstypes.
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACES: ANASTASIA Name: Anastasia Ilyunina Age: 25 Location: Sochi Agency: Freelance
party trick? I love to shoot video. Also I do video installation.
How long have you been modelling for? Sometime
What would surprise people to know about you? I love the thrill, I love life. I love the sea, I am very cheerful
Where are you from originally? Sochi
What are your modelling ambitions? I will sometimes participate
Do you have an unusual talent or
Model - Anastasia Ilyunina @sergeevna10000 Photographer - Nadezhda Popova @nadezhdapopova_photographer
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACES: ANNA Name: Anna Katsadze Age: 22 Location: Georgia, Tbilisi Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 1 year Where are you from originally? From Georgia, Kutaisi Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? As a psychologist, I can read people looking at them from the side
What would surprise people to know about you? I have a bachelor degree in Psychology and Philology ...now I'm studying Education Administration (master degree)... also I'm very good in SMM. What are your modelling ambitions? For now, I'm a beginner and I'm studying modelling on practice. It' s a great opportunity to be published in foreign magazine and I appreciate it very much. I think it' s a big step forward to become a really good model.
Photographer - Yana Khazova @jedi_photographer
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACES: POLINA Name: Polina Anokhina Age: 14 Location: Moscow/Sochi, Russia Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I've been modelling for 3 years Where are you from originally? Russia
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I play the piano and sing What would surprise people to know about you? Many people wonder how I manage to study and do modelling What are your modelling ambitions? I really want to be 170 cm tall to work abroad with well-known brands
Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist - Medea @medea_makeup Creative Director - Alena Oreshkina @marselinikol Fashion Designer/Accessory Designer - Svetlana Anokhina @anokhina_style Photographer/Retoucher - Nigina Vasina @nigina_vasina_photography Model - Polina Anokhina @polino4ka_anokhina
Dress and top from Svetlana Anokhina Organza collection
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SEEUN KIM I am a South Korean jeweller and metal craftsman. I trained in Japanese traditional handicraft skills and precious metals as an advanced specialist in Japan. Furthermore, as an RCA student, I have learnt a lot about metal craft while attending college in England. I believe that the human hand is a gift from human evolution. Even though today there are advanced technologies, including the CAD and 3D printing industry, handicraft products have a rareness and beauty compared to mass-produced manmade products. Moreover, there is an inexpressible complexity in the handicraft world that a machine cannot imitate. Thus, I have decided to develop my works more broadly by striking a balance between the tradition and the modern.
If someone asked me why I started learning jewellery and metalcrafts, I would answer that jewellery and metalcrafts are my vocation. 2018-2020 Royal College of Art, Jewellery and Metal Course (2-year Full-time Course, MA), London, United Kingdom.
The Heritage Collection 100 - What is Our Duty in a Modern Society? - Heritage Protector Seeun Kim's 100 Art Jewellery Collection. @jewellery_studio_seeun
portfolio piece
Boleyn Girl Vivienne Monique portrays the young Anne Boleyn in this photoshoot at the magnificent Hever Castle in Kent, England.
Model - Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique Fashion Designer - Mitch Desunia @iammitchdesunia Photography - Ram Eagle Photoworks @ram.eagle Makeup Artist - Reychelle Anne Munoz-Mendiola @checj22 Creative Director - House Of Ikons @house_of_ikons_official
Anne Boleyn was Queen of England in the 1500s during the Tudor Era and Hever Castle was her childhood home. It was best themed as the queen's favorite colours are known to be black and green; and also an English folksong, Greensleeves, was a song dedicated to her by King Henry VIII. Vivienne Monique is wearing a green and black satin gown adorned with 3D laces, gems, and gold crystals designed by Mitch Desunia and was showcased as the finale walk for House of Ikon's Ikonic Kids Fashion Show during London Fashion Week - Spring/Summer #SS20 collection.
UNICORN Model - Kseniia Panova @panova_x Photographer - Karavaeva Yana @ph.yana.karavaeva
Bodysuit - Forever 21; skirt and mask - hand made.
Bodysuit - Forever 21; boots -Timberland.
LONDON RUNWAY
Bodysuit, denim jacket - Forever 21; boots - Timberland.
Bodysuit - Forever 21
LONDON RUNWAY
A RETROSPECTIVE ON 1940s FASHION This month Cicilia proposes a retrospective on 1940s fashion in France, the UK, and the US. From fabric shortages and Utility Clothing to the post-war Hollywood glitz: an insightful overview of one of the most turbulent decades, closing up with a stylishreview of Hollywood, one of the latest Netflix miniseries.
1940s FASHION - FRANCE, UNITED STATES, AND UK The 1940s were one of the most turbulent decades ever. Wartime restrictions also set boundaries on fashion to avoid any waste. Men had to go to the front, and women had to leave behind the idea of being just housewives. Production was hectic during wartime, and many women started working in factories; hence, Utilitarian Clothing was very popular. Glamour and femininity had to step back, leaving space for practical and functional clothing. Moreover, despite being affected by war differently, European countries and the United States experienced a significant limitation to fabric and haberdashery usage.
France had been established as the centre of womenswear fashion long before the 1940s. However, many fashion designers left Paris with the war outbreak, and France was cut off from the UK and the US. Hence, its designs weren't shown anywhere but nationally. One of the greatest French designers was Jeanne Lanvin, who proposed full-skirted outfits and fashionable wedding ensembles. On the other side of the Atlantic, American fashion designers also had to deal with minor fabric rationing. Thus, ladies flaunted sleeker attires with discreet knee-length skirts without frills. French style didn't reach the US, and for the first time, American design started thriving, in particular ready-to-wear. In the 1940s, emerging designers were Normal Norell and Claire McCardell. They proposed simple yet trendy collections that became immediately very popular. In particular, Norell focused on feminine and stylish outfits such as sequinned sheath dresses. He filled the void left by the absence of French designers, taking advantage of the lack of rationing on sequins. McCardell designed everyday clothing masterfully, navigating the fabric allotment. In 1942 the US government imposed a ban on the trading and usage of wool and silks; hence, McCardell started using denim, seersucker, and jersey, producing designs that became classic. In the UK, Norman Hartnell was the most famous fashion designer during wartime. In 1949, he gained the Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to
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Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, and in 1957 he received the same award from Queen Elizabeth II. He was one of the founders of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, established in 1942 to promote British fashion. Hartnell was commissioned to make outfits, always following the war restriction guidelines, by many noticeable British people.
Images via Wikicommons
He also reworked already-owned garments. He then had to leave civilian womenswear design. As many other designers, he helped the country in uniform creation and production. Hartnell created attire for women in the British army, nurses, and female members of the City of London Police and Metropolitan Police. The majority of citizens wore uniforms, as almost everyone was somehow involved in helping the country. Indeed, menswear suits were used less than before. Once not on duty, men wore single-breasted jackets with a limited number of buttons and pockets. Turnups were a noticeable fabric waste, so they disappeared.
CC41 As the war was getting more challenging, fabrics were strictly rationed, and in 1941 the British government introduced the so-called Utility Clothing guidelines. Garment manufacture followed strict rules, and they all had a CC41 label, indicating they complied with the Civilian Clothing production regulations. This scheme aimed at helping the economy, and it was a triumph. Manufacturers had a specific quota to produce garments, and 85% of the total production was Utility Clothing. In contrast, 15% was allocated to non-regulated garment manufacture.
However, designers had to follow the modest style of the time. Designs and quality were controlled, and so were prices. Indeed, the government wanted all its citizens to afford good quality outfits at a fair price. Specifically, people didn't use their money but government-regulated coupons. In this way, the upper class couldn't buy more than essential clothing. Normal Hartnell was one of the designers appointed to design CC41 pieces. He partnered with Barketex to speed up mass production. Wartime austerity regulated material usage and also labour; hence, clothes were as simple as possible. Just to give you an idea of how harsh restrictions were, garments could have a maximum of two pockets, five buttons, two to four pleats, 160 inches of stitches (4m), and of course, no decorations at all. Even shoe design experienced a significant change, and only solid and practical footwear was allowed. No heels or open-toes shoes, as they were considered unsafe. For the first time, women didn't wear stockings, as this underwear type was not essential. Many ladies avoided the few uncomfortable and ugly rayon hose available and just showed bare legs.
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In contrast, others drew a line down the back of their legs to mock real stockings.
DIOR - THE NEW LOOK Christian Dior’s first collection was the Spring-Summer 1947 one, and this was a ground-breaking success. He proposed the 'New Look', a style featuring rounded shoulders, a cinched waist and a full skirt; the New Look attire was the celebration of femininity and luxury. It was utterly opposed to the austere WWII fashion. This was a new outlook rather than a simple new look, composed of two pieces. The Bar jacket emphasised the silhouette, and it featured a curved neckline marked by hand stitches. This blazer was pared with the extremely elegant Chérie dress featuring a sloped shoulder and a very narrow waist. In contrast, the skirt was voluminous and fell on the padded hipline. The Chérie dress was a tailoring virtuoso, featuring dozens of handmade pleats and needing almost 470 inches of fabric (12m).
HOLLYWOOD GLITZ In the US, glitz was coming back, as post-war fashion was beginning to embrace the glamorous spirit characterising the Roaring Twenties. If you are looking for a new series to watch, I recommend Hollywood, a brand new Netflix miniseries. Romanticism, cinematography, and
fashion intertwine in a compelling and flowing plot. The lavish nights of 1940s Hollywood stars hide more profound themes such as prostitution, drugs, and racism. Although probably much emphasised by the plot, this Netflix production shows how difficult it was for non-white people to work at the fictional Ace Studios. The costume designers created outfits with a mix of truthfulness and imagination. Hollywood is an emotionally rich miniseries, and each outfit has a colour palette emphasising the scene. The shades of men's outfits are very bright and often contrasting. Typical elements of the 19490s, such as fedoras, suspenders, puff-sleeved dresses, turbans, and fresh flowers on menswear lapels, mix in eye-catching colour palettes. Colour combinations are not truthful; however, they give an incredible personal connotation to each character. Fashion is the mirror of society, and in the first half of the 1940s, it reflected the gravity of war. With the liberation from the Nazi regime, fashion returned to shine, delighting the world with unique creations like Dior's New Look. Suppose you don't have any trips out of town or pub nights planned yet. In that case, I highly recommend giving Hollywood a try. Very colourful and eye-catching outfits are a trend for SS 2021. I'm sure you'll take some styling inspiration from this miniseries. You can read more of Cicilia's article on ciciliabrognoli.com
MERILIN
Photographer - Pietro Recchia @pietro_recchia Model - Merilin Toomra @merilintoomra
Dress - Boohoo, Jacket & shoes - New Look
Top- Primark, Jacket - Bershka, Shorts- H&M
PARNELL MOONEY Images via Parnell Mooney
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LONDON RUNWAY
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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli
Colorful Standard ORGANIC BUTTON DOWN SHIRT - IVORY WHITE £70.00
Kokori RAFFIA STRAW HAT £28.00
Monsoon ditsy floral short dress in lenzing™ ecovero™ green £60.00
Finn+Emma pilot hat $14.00
The Simple Folk The Waffle Top £29.00
Will's Vegan Store Classic 3.5cm Belt £37.00
Lark & Berry Purple Sapphire Dune Drop Earrings in 14K Yellow Gold £645.00
Russell&Bromley 85PUMP £225.00
Rêve En Vert Citra Rattan Shopper Bag £135.00
The Simple Folk The Muslin Bloomer £23.00
Petit Nord RAINBOW SANDAL – MOSS £83.00
Rêve En Vert Green Eco Yoga Mat £62.00
Finisterre Brock Cord Shorts £65.00
Clarks Cambro Low Dark Tan Leather £65.00
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MAKE WAY! THE WORLD ISN’T GOING TO GET TIRED OF BTS ANYTIME SOON By Jessica Carvalho In this article, Jessica Carvalho explores the success and the power of one of the biggest music acts in history in the face of increased Asian discrimination, and how their impact is reshaping the industry as we know it. Often, living beneath a rock serves as the perfect excuse for a pop culture reference flying under the radar; but I am certain that even then, the easygoing, disco-pop melody of “Dynamite” would find its way through the cracks, and make itself known. BTS is quickly becoming a household name in every corner of the planet, the seven-piece boyband serving as a beacon of hope for integrity, honesty, and passion in the music industry. The group consists of leader RM, Jin, Suga, j-hope, Jimin, V and Jungkook, all of which hail from different areas of South Korea. Their paths crossed sometime in 2010, fully merging in June 2013 – specifically the 13th, the day in which their debut songs “No More Dream”, and “We Are Bulletproof pt. 2” were released as a single album. Bulletproof was not only an ode to the meaning of BTS in Korean ( , which translates to Bulletproof Boyscouts), but a way of living for the group, clad in sleeveless tops, heavy chains and an undying perseverance to make a name for themselves and BigHit Entertainment, their music label, which is currently known as BigHit Music. It was a hard-hitting first impression, they now realise, laughing and cringing as they reacted to one of their very first interviews after their debut. “We couldn’t get a lot of shows. If a show was full, we couldn’t get a full slot,” reported 25-year-old lead vocalist Jimin, reminiscing on the difficult beginnings of the team.
방탄소년단
The difference between the Korean and Western entertainment industries are stark, but some require further attention; success is highly dictated by the status of the entertainment label an act is signed to, and to this day, many fail to gain traction after debut and go unknown for most of their career. At the time, BigHit Music was a speck amidst the hundreds of other companies, but over the past seven years, it was catapulted to the top by the success of BTS. Newly rebranded into HYBE Corporation with its multiple subsidiaries, it is now South Korea’s largest entertainment company. Furthermore, BTS’ debut concept was a gamble. “No More Dream” was a hiphop track that tackled the lack of
passion and dreams amongst young people – a dig at South Korea’s emphasis on academic success, which has proved lethal when paired with immense pressure and the fear of failure. Social commentary in the K-Pop industry was rare at the time, and BTS stood out from the rest, mostly in a positive light. “Those days made today possible,” 27-year-old rapper j-hope commented after watching their debut interview video, hums of agreement following his words.
LONDON RUNWAY The rise of BTS, contrary to popular belief, has been years in the making. For most, it seems like the band rose to stardom overnight, but this June marks their eighth anniversary, and it is safe to say the journey has been marked with highs and lows. Their path has been one that has gradually been littered with accolades, the first being the Best New Artist award at South Korea’s Melon Music Awards in 2013, the much-anticipated first daesang (translating literally to “grand prize”; the biggest achievement a K-pop act can receive for digital and physical album sales) at the 2016 Melon Music Awards for the Best Album of the Year category, and finally, the historic GRAMMY and BRIT Awards nominations. The former came
with little surprise, super-hit “Dynamite” being BTS’ first Billboard Hot 100 chart-topping single – the first song by a South Korean act to do so. The epic winning streak didn’t stop there for the band, either; “Life Goes On”, the lead single of their ninth album “BE”, followed in its predecessor’s footsteps and became the first foreign language song to top the Hot 100 chart and simultaneously top the Billboard 200 chart. In the midst of all this, breaking six different world records in a matter of days and winning a stupefying number of awards (and counting), “Dynamite” failed to win the Best Pop Duo/Group performance at this year’s GRAMMY Awards, a loss taken very gracefully by the group, but not so much from everybody else.
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Partially shadowed in coverage by the online outcry from loyal fans over the snub, a trading card brand released a caricature of the boyband, depicting its seven members in a Whack-A-Mole game with bruised faces. Initially, the drawing was considered satirical and comedic, but the discriminatory and xenophobic undertones were hard to ignore. It came at a time where hate crime incidents against Asians were increasing not only in the US, but worldwide, and was met with immediate backlash from BTS’ fandom, ARMY, prompting the company to release an apology statement and discontinue the sticker. It’s saddening and infuriating how the targeting of Asians has been so normalised, and how even being one of the greatest musical acts ever won’t exempt you from it or provide you with the respect you deserve. BTS themselves have come forward and condemned the wave of Asian hate crimes following the deadly mass shootings in Asian-owned spas in Atlanta in March, four of the victims being of Korean descent. "We cannot put into words the pain of becoming the subject of hatred and violence for such a reason," the statement reads, posted on their personal Twitter account, "Our own experiences are inconsequential compared to the events [...] but these experiences were enough to make us feel powerless and chip away at our self-esteem".
LONDON RUNWAY It is thought that these raciallymotivated crimes originate from people blaming China for the COVID-19 pandemic, a dangerous belief that has varying extremes – all equal in their devastating effects. Despite all, BTS has a penchant for repurposing bad experiences into good. In the midst of their slow but certain climb to legend status, the group amassed a loyal fanbase – the BTS ARMY (the latter standing for Adorable Representative MC of Youth), is a force to be reckoned with, and one of the ways BTS is shifting the narrative in music. The celebrity-fan relationship most of us are used to consists of a connection that keeps both parties at arm’s length of each other, but that isn’t the case in the K-pop industry. Artists are publicised as the best version of themselves, and details of their personal lives are rarely spared, all in attempts to forge a deeper connection between performers and fans – couple good music with likeable, relatable personalities and it isn’t hard to see BTS’ appeal to almost anyone, the fanbase spanning from young children to older K-pop enthusiasts. “We want ARMY to be happy through our music, and we will be there for you, with love,” lead dancer and vocalist V said in an interview with James Corden, the group not once forgetting to acknowledge their driving force every chance they get. Such a loyal, diverse and powerful fanbase is somewhat of a novelty in the West and is one of the many ways some find to discredit the boyband, painting the BTS ARMY in a rather generalised toxic manner and depicting their dedication as obsession. BTS themselves aren’t fans of this misconception, visibly irked during an interview with radio host Skye of Skye on Air, wherein he called them “insane”. Leader RM later vocalised the group’s feelings towards the fanbase in an interview with iHeartRadio; “BTS and ARMY is the same word, right?” RM said. “It just sounds different, but I see the same word when we say BTS and ARMY.”
Rightfully, ARMY see, ARMY do. Amidst smashing records and just, you know, being the biggest boyband in the world, BTS finds time to give back and ARMYs follow suit. An unforgettable account of this is the group’s million-dollar donation to the Black Lives Matter movement last year, the hyper-organised fanbase matching their donation within one day. Furthermore, ARMYs have taken to social media and organised support groups to assist other fandom members, study groups, and even cooking communities assembled by fans, for fans. Like all fandoms, there are obvious shortcomings and less-than-good moments, but overall, the giving nature of the fandom is simply a reflection of BTS – frequent charity donors and UNICEF ambassadors, themselves.
The music industry will simply have to adapt, make space and comply; this seven-member boyband is rewriting the rulebook. With them, they bring a new flair and serious passion that can often be missed amongst the sharp choreography and avant-garde fashion, but one that will begin to chip away at the discrimination and xenophobia in the industry and around the world – “Everything that we do, our existence itself, is contributing to the hope for leaving xenophobia behind,” RM confided in a recent interview. Behind them comes the force of nature that is the BTS ARMY, a catalyst of change. As said by vocalist Jin, “It’s all because of ARMYs”, and it is likely to remain that way as they reach new, unprecedented heights, feet still firmly on the ground. The world most definitely isn’t going to get tired of BTS anytime soon, if at all, and I - ARMY of six years - can guarantee that. Make way! You can find more of Jessica’s work on her Instagram page @whatjesstypes.
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RUNES
Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist - Lyudmila Stahova @stahova_colorist Fashion Designer - Nastya Goryacheva @_goryach, Nastya Savchenko @nastasi.o_o, Svetlana Maksimova @svtmaks1 Photographer/Retoucher/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist - Angela Kuzmina @angelaky3mina Models - Maria Poddubnaya @ariapoddubnaya2007, Anna Volinskaya @anna_vais_1704, Irina Makotsina @makotsinairisha, Anna Chernykh @_anekaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa_, Alina Naumlinskaya @nmlinsk_a, Aida Rubtsova @aida_rubic, Ekaterina Shutova @sssssshutova, Yaroslava Chernyavskaya @citrus_pie_ from Diana @dianamodels_dk
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F.R.I.E.N.D.S With the Reunion finally here, writer Suhani Lotlikar looks back at some of the show’s iconic fashion moments. During the month of May when the long-awaited F.R.I.E.N.D.S reunion was announced, it brought along with it a feeling of revival. The decade-long sitcom has not only given us unlimited laughs and unforgettable catch-phrases, but also iconic moments of fashion. As a huge fan of the show and a fashion enthusiast, I took this opportunity and turned it into an official binge-watching session to look back at the costume design and styling of our favorite F.R.I.E.N.D.S. Costume is a very broad part in the making of a television character. During the days of mute television, the visualdominant motion picture was heavily dependent on the look of the character. The costume design of F.R.I.E.N.D.S.- a sitcom that showcased the life and friendship of six main characters - was carefully executed, too. On the 25th anniversary of the debut of the show, costume designer Debra McGuire shared that her idea was to bring her painter’s vision into a six-dimensional form with the six characters. Her process of helping build each of their wardrobes involved preparing color palettes based on their individual stories blended with the New York’s ‘90s fashion scene. So, as I watch another one of the episodes for the hundredth time - here are some fashion moments that are celebrated even today. With a love for neutrals and fitted silhouettes, Monica’s wardrobe was the one I could relate to the most. To tell the truth, every look worn by her that entered or exited the famous purple door marked in time the character’s moments of growing up. Her petite figure and sculpted arms were often appreciated with sleeveless tops and dresses. The cowl-neck red dress on Monica from Ross’s second wedding has become a classic investment piece that is loved by many as a date night outfit. As the show and its characters grew over time, there were many visible
THE ONE WHERE FASHION HISTORY WAS MADE changes in the fits made to adapt the off-camera lives of the characters too. Chandler’s journey from ‘types in numbers for a living’ to ‘I am going to be a dad’ was seen in a variety of denims. His early vintage shirts and tweed jackets evolved into fleece sweaters and long-sleeved t-shirts as his character developed in the series. The costume designer has noted that initially his wardrobe was entirely thrifted but it went on to become off-the-rack due to time constraints that could not accommodate multiple fitting sessions. My personal favourite are the bra-less moments of Rachel Green topped with the cutest crops. We have seen her transition from ‘daddy’s little girl’ in a cow printed coat with a ring on her finger to ‘an independent and experimental executive’ in an offshoulder shirt accessorized with a necktie. She has not only been known for her fashion but also haircuts that are stated as goals by many.
Speaking of iconic hair moments, how can Phoebe’s breathtaking hairstyles be overlooked? With her habit of chewing on her hair, the kookiness of the hairstyles adorned with colorful accessories brought a childish joy and simplicity to the set. Her style was a quirky take on ‘90s fashion with a lot of experimental print on print. The sheer tops and floral prints were a balanced blend of bohemian and modern aesthetic. The many layers of her character were portrayed through textured and distinct pieces of clothing and stacked jewellery. In an era of videos in which people talk about what’s in their bags, Phoebe would have surely hit the mark with a hairbrush, an egg in a shoe, and a living goldfish in hers.
LONDON RUNWAY McGuire has shared how she often had to work in coordination with the co-creators of the show as a lot of the scenes were written around an item of clothing where they had to maintain continuity and use the item as a prop. One of the biggest gamechanging moments in the show was written around a red sweater that belonged to Ross. While a couple other episodes pushed his character to wear a women’s t-shirt and fitted leather pants, many times Ross’s wardrobe became a part of the script. The only seriousness of his character was maintained by his elbowpatched and formal professor jackets. As an unemployed actor in New York, Joey gave us the hots layered with a classic leather jacket and fitted high neck t-shirts. His wardrobe developed towards flannel shirts and full sleeved jumpers as he began to make serious decisions like eating a whole turkey on Thanksgiving or purchasing Pat - the ceramic dog. His flirty and sexy charm was often elaborated with textured and tactile clothing.
Be it season one’s ‘The One with the Thumb’ or season three’s ‘The One with the Football,’ the gang has thrown around some tips on how to do athleisure right. Casual joggers have been worn by all characters throughout the show. Denim vests and overalls were two other pieces picked from the surrounding fashion scene that made the characters more relatable. Building a wardrobe that showcased the process of each character’s growth over the long period of ten years while keeping it real was a tough job very well done. ‘90s fashion as a whole brought a sense of ungendered and individualistic styles. And F.R.I.E.N.D.S. is a remarkable documentation of this joyful and carefree time in history. The show and the characters have not only entertained millions but has also allowed us to cherish the simple things in life. Happy Reunion! You can read more of Suhani’s work on suhani17.wordpress.com and on Instagram by following @suhani_lotlikar
“OH MY GOD” - how could I not mention Janice’s shoulder pads moment? The loud personality of her character was wildly expressed through her many leopard-printed pieces. Besides her, other supporting characters too presented their personal characteristics thoroughly via their costumes. Monica’s boyfriend Richard with his buttoned-up shirts and cigars, Phoebe’s twin sister Ursula who wore black, and Joey’s agent Estelle who belonged to the ‘80s - all added to the charm of the sitcom.
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EDWARD CRUTCHLEY
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Images via Edward Crutchley
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MATTY BOVAN Images via Matty Bovan
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INTERVIEW WITH LAURA BLAIR: WHAT IT’S REALLY LIKE TO BE A FASHION INFLUENCER Amber Johnson interviews Laura Blair, where she discusses the reality of being a fashion influencer, tricks, and tips for becoming an Influencer on social media, and all about sustainable fashion. How did you get into fashion and beauty influencing? It kind of just fell into place. I began before it was really a thing - I was just always into fashion. I was one of those people that would trail through the charity shops when I was 16 years old and could not afford anything, so I'd spend every penny I'd had in a charity shop. And when I went into school, everyone would always be like, “Where's this from?” So, when Instagram came about, I would just start posting my outfits and tagging things because it just made sense. It was just a very natural movement for me to go into. I don’t even think I've been doing it as long as some people. I started first with a blog seven years ago and I started on Instagram maybe five years ago. I actually started my page like a Pinterest board with loads of images on my phone. When the magazines were out, I would take pictures of any inspo. I got to 10k on just an inspo page and then I found out what bloggers were doing and stuff, so I just started taking pictures of myself with the 10k I already had. It just kind of took off.
What would you say is a go-to outfit for you? My pyjamas! I discovered this brand at the beginning of lockdown called One Hundred Stars. I think it is a family run
business, a really unique kind of startup. They are pure silk robes and they sent me one as a gift and I said this feels amazing! Honestly, I have lived in it. I’ve got about four now and [they] aren’t only comfortable, but they look a little bit sexy so when the postman comes to the door, I look kind of okay. It just really made me not feel a mess in lockdown. They are beautiful long silk kimonos with gorgeous patterns on them. I think they are handmade too. If you could only have one cosmetic item for the rest of your life, what would it be and why? Mascara for sure. I've got really seethrough eyelashes, like really blonde. Mascara makes a massive difference to me. So, my desert island item would definitely be my mascara. I use the Marc Jacobs one. I'm not entirely sure what it's called but it's the new one. But that and an eyelash serum is a game changer. I used to always wear eyelash extensions but obviously we couldn't get them done, so I started putting the eyelash serum on and found this mascara and I swear I will never go back to extensions again. What advice would you give to anyone who wanted to start influencing in fashion and beauty on social media? And what would they really be getting themselves in for? I have so many people wanting to do this. When I started, everyone used to laugh, like, “Oh, what is she doing taking pictures?”. And now it is such a change because everyone kind of wants to do it. The market is so saturated, especially with like Gen Z and millennials. TikTok started and every one of the younger generation wanted to be an influencer.
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I think a lot of people are put off because it is so saturated. But I honestly say, if you want to do it, the cream will always rise the top. It's no easier, it’s no harder starting now than it was all those years ago. TikTok has only been around for a couple of months and the other platforms don’t cross over. So, if you are big on Instagram, you're not big on TikTok or you're not big on YouTube, they never cross. Which I think people would think they would do, but they really don't. I started TikTok in September, and I think i'm on 250,000 followers. So, that's starting a new platform. You can start Instagram tomorrow and be on 200k by the end of the year, don't ever be put off, you just have to start.
LONDON RUNWAY
Sometimes you can be like ‘Oh it’s not working, why is Instagram hating me at the moment?’ and actually you've been doing the same content for so long. If you are bored of it, your audience will be bored of it. So, the key is not to get stagnant. I find if you look at the industry, some people have really taken off and some people have stayed where they are. If you break it down, it's always people that are really doing the next thing. As soon as everybody else starts doing the trend, everyone then starts doing a fashion video. You need to be on to the next thing.
So, it's consistency you need to post every single day and not give a damn what anybody thinks. I think thinking what people think and the comments and the likes, or do people like this? I think it really prohibits people and I'm like, just put stuff out there. Sometimes it flops, sometimes it takes off, you just have to do it. You mentioned about posting once a day, how do you keep that creativity out? Where do you get your inspiration from? How do you find the motivation, or are you organised with scheduling how you put your information out there? Oh my gosh, I'm not organised in the slightest. People laugh at me because it’s like organised chaos. I've never planned anything in my life. But I find I get bored really easily with my own content. I always change it up. So, I will do something completely different. I will throw out things just for a test. I change what I do all the time, so I'm constantly bettering myself.
And honestly, analytics tell you so much. I think people really overlook it. I’m always in my analytics. I know my audience to a tee. I know what they like and what they do. And it's just knowing your audience through your analytics is the best way to learn how to know what works. I can see people shopping for instance, for me now I can see people shopping summer dresses. I haven’t posted summer dresses since last year, which means half my audience is in hot countries. So, you know you need to do more summer content. Whereas I'm in my woollies still. It’s just things like that, you get to know what they want. What is your top tip for staying on top of the fashion trends? And can this be done on a budget? Fashion trends is a difficult one because I find on Instagram, you get sucked into the trends, and actually trends don’t necessarily suit you and your body type. And I think it's important to learn (I think you learn as you get older) what suits you and what doesn't. For me on Instagram at the moment, there's a really cool trend of baggy jeans and a very boyish kind of vibe. I do not suit that whatsoever. So, it's important to pick and choose the trends that suit you and stick to what works for your body type. And definitely you can recreate any of the things you see.
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Part of my channel and why I grew was because I used to always do catwalk trends and then make them High Street. And then sponge what the catwalks were looking like and then go pick it up in Primark or Asos. I actually did a charity shop video. I worked with Cancer Research quite a lot. I made over the shop window to make it look designer. My channel tagline used to have on the top of it ‘A price tag doesn't define your style’ just because I think you can buy clothes, but it doesn't make you stylish. It’s a technique and something that you really have to work on, it doesn’t just come to you. Those people that are trendy research and use Vogue. We use catwalks and that's our research as you would in any other industry. If you are on a budget, just delve into the magazines, the catwalk shows, and try and recreate what you're seeing. Because the High Street will copy it in some sort of format. They make it really easy for you to copy the catwalk, it's just knowing about it. Research is key if you're on a budget. Do you ever buy sustainable clothes? And if so, what brands are your favourite? Sustainability is something that's becoming more and more apparent over the years as a fashion blogger. It's really difficult to be completely sustainable as a fashion blogger because we are promoting clothes, but I definitely made a decision to try and show my audience to shop more wisely. A lot of my YouTube videos are ‘How to style a piece several different ways’, ‘am I going to get long lasting wear?’. So, I tried to take a different angle on it. If you ever watch my YouTube videos its predominantly styling and how to style what you have in your wardrobe. Sustainability is something that I want
to work more and more towards. Brands off the top of my head that I think of sustainability, I love Everlane. I worked with them this year and I really enjoyed their clothing; I think you can really tell the difference between a sustainable brand. I also have a jewellery collection coming out with Ana Luisa. They use completely recycled gold and all ethical practices from beginning to end. So, when I try and put my name to stuff, I want to try and make sure that there is some sort of sustainable process in the back. And I think brands as a whole are really making a difference at the moment. They're making the changes and it's good to see. The problem starts when you shop fast fashion a lot. There's nothing wrong with buying a jumper from Primark and wearing it over and over again, if you can only afford Primark. But you wear it over and over again, that is, to me, a sustainable way of shopping. To constantly shop in these fast fashion brands at such a pace, that is where it is not a good ethical practice. What would you say is your biggest achievement in your career so far? Honestly, I was thinking about this yesterday, it makes me tear up. I've suffered really badly with my health this year. I caught Coronavirus 14 months ago very badly for my age. I've been in and out of hospital for the past year with very bad long-term symptoms, to the point now it’s dire that I spend so much time in bed and I don't think anyone would know on my Instagram. So, to keep it going when I felt this ill has probably been my biggest achievement. It just shows how much Instagram, YouTube, and TikTok is just a fraction of someone's reality. I post a picture with a load of makeup on, a
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smile and a lovely outfit and no one knows what's wrong with me. I then spent three days in bed recovering from that. I've grown my following across everything like 300k this year. And it makes me laugh because I've been so ill. Instagram, pictures, and editing has got so bad that if you don't understand the process of editing behind it, people would be thinking that everyone is a supermodel. And I really try and show myself looking normal on YouTube. Like I very often have no makeup on looking rough as hell. I'm very aware that if you influence and you do have these pictures that look lovely, you have to show the reality as well. What would you do differently if you were starting in the industry now? I don’t think I would do anything differently. I would start earlier and pick up my camera in 2011!
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What does a typical day in your week look like? At the moment I’m in bed a lot [laughs]. The thing is that this industry and why I think so many people love this job is that it's different every single day. Some days you're inside on your own shooting and some days you are on location. Some days in previous times we were with brands in meetings. Before COVID-19 it was literally the most exciting thing. You didn’t know which country you were going to be in or which party you were going to be at. It was the best job, but it’s definitely changed in the last year. I have spent so much time by myself. This job without all the events and all the meetings and all the exciting things is back to basics. It’s on your bed, talking to a camera by yourself. In relation to what we spoke about previously; do you think sustainable fashion is important? What impact do you think that COVID-19 has had on the fashion industry? Do you think this will influence the industry in the long run or not? In so many ways, it's completely changed the whole way we shop, I think. Definitely online has really benefited from lockdown. I think online sales have probably gone through the roof. Even as an influencer I have seen more success this year than any other year because people are just choosing online to stay at home over going outside to the shops. I think in terms of trends, we've definitely all started to love comfort. I am the biggest high heel lover, and even I'm shopping for flats. I want to be comfortable. So, I think not only in fashion trends, but the way we shop, the way we interact. I'm shopping for fashionable face masks, and if that doesn’t sum up this year then I don’t know what does!
I think Instagram and influencers has played a large part in teaching people that it's okay to shop, shop, shop, and it’s hard as an influencer because the more we post the more we grow, the more likes, everything. So, we are contributing largely to that. During my time as an influencer, integrity has been key to everything. If it doesn't sit well with what I'm doing, it won't sit well with my audience. And frankly, I have to be really truthful about what you’re doing. Am I doing it for the likes? Am I doing it for the money? Part of what I loved as an influencer was when women messaged me, like ‘I wore this outfit here’ and I felt fantastic. I want to make women feel good about themselves and that’s not keeping up with posting constantly all the time. So, it's easy to do on YouTube because you can talk to your audience. But I really try and make it clear that I want to teach you how to dress better, not that you need everything that I post.
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I stopped a habit years and years ago “Look at this that I got sent”, I think people wanted to keep up with it. Now I'm really select with what beauty products I show on my Instagram and stories because I didn't want to become just a show-horse of constant fashion. Sustainability is not only picking sustainable brands to work with which is something that I've incorporated a lot more this past year, but make it more about how we learn to shop. Follow Laura on Instagram & TikTok at @thelaurablair, and on Youtube as Laura Blair. Shop for the Silk Robes at onehundredstars.co.uk and jewellery at analuisa.com
If you enjoyed this interview, you can follow Amber on Instagram via @amberjohn_
CHRISTIAN COWAN Central St Martins-educated Cowan showed this most recent collection at New York Fashion Week. Images by Adrienne Raquel
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LINUS LEONARDSSON Images via Linus Leonardsson
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Candice brings you eco-friendly and sustainable green-coloured clothing from the top greenest UK clothing companies curated for the signs. The layers of green are plentiful with this issue’s Your Style Horoscope!
Aries March 21 - April 20
In a gorgeous sage colour, Bam Bamboo Clothing’s Dewerstone Bamboo Short Skirt is both cute and practical for this active sign! The production of this bamboo jersey skirt saves roughly 187.8 days of water and 2.6 miles of driving emissions.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
A classic for a classic, the Khaki Evelyn Jumpsuit by People Tree will look stunning on the lovely Taurus! The elasticised waist and wrap-over neckline creates the perfect silhouette. Made from 95% GOTS certified organic cotton.
Gemini May 22- June 21
Ifnotnow’s No More Tiers T-shirt in sage sends a playful message on the current circumstances of today. Made of 100% organic cotton, the quirky t-shirt pairs well with the eclectic nature of Geminis.
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Cancer June 22- July 22 Dressing according to their daily emotions, Cancers will exude joy in Lucy and Yak’s Freyja Organic Cotton Corduroy Midi Pini Dress in the coming Summer months, with their birthday period coming up! The Green Bay inspired, sage-coloured dress is handmade from 100% organic cotton by Ismail in Northern India.
Leo July 23- August 21 Fashionmonger Leos set the trends with whatever they wear! With the Girlboss Wide Leg Sustainable Trouser and Longline Blazer duo by Blonde Gone Rouge, they will amaze even more. Vegan friendly and made from 100% recycled materials.
Virgo August 22- September 23 Esmé Studio’s Tabby Dress in a sophisticated Thyme green features a high neck, ¾ length, and boxy sleeves. A virgo will welcome the oversized flowiness and breathable material! Made in a BSCI, Fair Trade and GOTS certified factory with chemical free fabrics.
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Libra
September 24- October 23
This Colour Pop Green Organic Cotton shorts by Kind Clothing is made with 85% organic cotton and 15% recycled polyester. The pastel green colour will suit the aesthetic and energies of Libras perfectly!
Scorpio October 24- November 22 The Recycled PET High-rise Compressive Leggings by Know the Origin is made from recycled water bottles. The high-rise waist and dark green colour complements any Scorpio’s wardrobe! Uses 25 water bottles with 3.11 gallons of water saved.
Sagittarius
November 23- December 22
The Joni Workwear Playsuit in emerald green by Ilk and Ernie provides comfort, style, and durability. Made from 100% cotton twill surplus fabric, the versatile playsuit will be well worn by wandering Sagittariuses looking for Summer adventures!
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Capricorn December 23- January 20
Capricorns will swoon over this Organic Cotton Midi Dress by Veryan. In a green crossweave, the handmade dress features silk-lined pockets with hidden buttons running the full length of the dress. The tiewaist piece is made from ethically sourced, grown, and woven cotton in Kerala.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Who better to wear this gorgeous, bright colour than the fashion experimentator Aquarius? By Before July, the Amora Dress in green is made to order with 100% ethical, light blue cotton for a quality fit and feel.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
Rêve En Vert’s Lydia Organic Nightgown in moss will facilitate more creative imagination from Pisceans with its stylish comfort, perfect for dreaming in! Sustainably made from plant-based, 100% GOTS certified organic cotton.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
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Arigo + Torosian
FASHION SCOUT - MADE IN ARMENIA
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Seda
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TEMPERLEY LONDON Images via Temperley London
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Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
What's the Best Compliment You've Ever Received?
&
"This sounds really weird, but actually I was told the compliment to accept compliments. Does that make sense? Being told that I didn't accept them was the biggest life changing thing ever. At that moment at drama school. I just didn't know how to accept it, and then she kind of showed me how to and I just burst out crying and I realised that I didn't ever. I had so much under confidence. I think being made aware that I wasn't accepting them made me grow as a person massively."
"I love hearing, "I thought you got your hair professionally done" after I tell them I do my own hair because I know how careless or lax I am with it" - Candice Wu, Editorial Assistant
– Ellie Gill, actress and model
"YOU HAVE A BEAUTIFUL SMILE" - Akram Arshad, teacher & model
"That I make the best pizzas in Kent" - Sofian, Head Pizza Chef
"CARING PERSON"
"Good listener and present in the moment" -Connie Everett, Bar Manager
“YOU HAVE SUCH LONG LASHES! DID YOU GET EXTENSIONS?” - Barbara Mascarenhas, Graphic Designer
- Kristina Prokop, Teacher
"I’ve been told I see everyone as equals and of the same value - no judgment based in first impressions" - Annie Cassidy, Police Constable
"I’ve been told I’m very funny & give good hugs" - Sara Billing, Waitress
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
NEXT: THE ROCK & ROLL ISSUE THE GREEN ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK
BY RABI SULTAN, BACKSTAGE AT OLIVIA RUBIN
