Low Season Traveller - Issue 8 by Low Season Traveller

TRAVELLER LOW S E A SON

Issue 8 July 2024

lowseasontraveller.com

IS GREENWASHING MISLEADING ECO-CONSCIOUS TRAVELLERS?

FEATURED DESTINATIONS:

Why holidaymakers should learn to separate scams from sustainability.

THE JOY OF TRAIN TRAVEL

Editor Ryan Maley takes a train trip through Europe.

PUGLIA DELIVERS

A low season family escape to Bari, Puglia.

Costa Rica Andermatt, Switzerland Maldives Chiang Mai, Thailand Uganda Swedish Lapland AND MUCH MORE...

MEET THE LOW SEASON TRAVELLERS An interview with Riana Ang-Canning.

Balancing Tourism Seasonality 08 OCTOBER 2024 AT ROUTES WORLD, BAHRAIN

WWW.SEASONALITYSUMMIT.COM

Team and Contributors

Contributors Publishing Team

Ged Brown

Publisher and CEO at Low Season Traveller Ged is the founder and CEO of Low Season Traveller; the world’s first organisation completely dedicated to the promotion of travel during the offpeak seasons in each destination as a way to alleviate the growing problem of over-tourism. A passionate advocate of the advantages of tourism, Ged has spent his entire career working with leading travel and tourism organisations.

Ryan Maley

Editor, Low Season Traveller Ryan is our Content Development and Community Manager, as well as Editor of the Low Season Traveller Magazine. Ryan has worked in the travel industry for almost a decade, developing content and campaigns in his home city of Manchester, UK. He is passionate about sustainable travel, and believes that travel should be accessible to all, as it truly makes for a more well-rounded and culturally intelligent society.

Lisa TE Sonne Editor-at-Large

An award-winning writer who explored seven continents, dove many seas, and wrote for airline, Time-Life, and National Geographic media. Her books include “My Adventures” and “The Great Outdoors” for Quarto Publishers. Wrote for Oscarwinning and Emmy-winning projects. Co-founderCharityChecks.org; member of Space.com’s launch team and The Explorers Club.

Contributors Chris Flynn

Claire has crossed the globe, living and working on 6 continents. She’s now working on Low Season Traveller feature pieces and dreaming of her next adventure from her narrow boat home on a quiet stretch of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, where it seems to be permanently low season.

Chris is a member of the LST Advisory Board and is also the Founder & Executive Chairman of The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage. With more than 30 years’ experience in international tourism, Chris is a regular speaker at high profile international events and provides insights to leading news media channels such as BBC World News Asia Business Report.

Chris McNicholl

Robert Isenberg

Art Director Chris is a designer with over 20 years experience in the design industry. Working with some of the biggest brands on the planet in top studios and publications in London. Chris has travelled extensively and worked with Low Season Travellor from the the very start. Now based in New Zealand he runs overflowcreative.co.nz

Riana Ang-Canning Riana Ang-Canning is a travel and copywriter based in Vancouver, Canada who is always planning her next trip. You can follow along with Riana’s travels on Twitter (X) and at Teaspoon of Adventure.

Robert is a writer and multimedia producer based in coastal New England. His books include The Green Season, about the two years he spent as a journalist in Costa Rica. He loves cycling and filmmaking, especially when he can do both simultaneously. Visit him at robertisenberg.net.

Tony Hallwood Business Development Director

Tony’s career has covered senior director roles for major travel companies including SAGA, Cosmos, Airtours and My Travel. Tony’s strengths are building strong partnerships with airlines, tour operators and national tourism partners alongside maximising his extensive PR and media experience to promote a wide range of new destinations, routes and services.

Vijay Verghese Vijay Verghese is a Hong Kong-based journalist, columnist and the editor of AsianConversations.com and SmartTravelAsia.com

Stephanie Curtis-Raleigh Steph Curtis-Raleigh is a journalist and publisher of International Glamping Business Magazine, Glamping Business Americas and SHARE – the publication of the Eco Resort Network. She has over 25 years’ experience as an editor of trade publications and is a keen traveller with her family – especially in low season.

Advertising? Get in touch with Tony Hallwood at: Tony@lowseasontraveller.com

Low Season Traveller

Claire French

Northland is bursting with rich indigenous Mäori cultural and European heritage. As the place where both the Polynesian and European peoples first arrived to Aotearoa New Zealand, and connections were forged, there are stories to be discovered at every turn. When you visit in our low season, you get to meet locals who have the time to share our unique stories and manaakitanga (hospitality). Form a deep connection with Northland and discover what makes New Zealand the nation it is today from the place where it all began. Ceremonial war canoe (waka) at Waitangi Treaty Grounds, Bay of Islands, Northland New Zealand

NORTHLANDNZ.COM/VISIT

Low Season Traveller

Contents 14 03 Contributors

52 Featured Destination: Maldives

09 Note From the Editor

58 Puglia Delivers – Especially in the Shoulder Season

Ged’s Update

Featured Destination: Costa Rica

Low Season Traveller

22 Is Greenwashing Taking Travellers to the Cleaners?

62 Featured Destination: Swedish Lapland 70 Featured Photograph 72 Featured Destination: Chiang Mai

28 Featured Destination: Andermatt, Switzerland

80 Cultural Heritage

34 The Joy of Train Travel: A Rail Adventure Through Europe

86 Climate Friendly Accommodation

42 Featured Destination: Uganda

92 Top 5 Travel Podcasts

48 Meet the Low Season Travellers: Riana Ang-Canning lowseasontraveller.com

@lowseasontraveller

lowseasontraveller

@lowseasontraveller

Low Season Traveller

Editor’s Note

It’s certainly been a busy few months since the last edition of the Low Season Traveller Magazine.

In April, I had the opportunity to travel to some amazing European cities by train with Interrail. Visiting Turin, Zürich, Vienna, and Bratislava, I was also lucky enough to travel on the stunning panoramic Bernina Express across the Swiss Alps, as well as taking in the wonderful sights on a train that traversed four countries between Zürich and Vienna. If I wasn’t before, I am certainly a convert to train travel now, and you can read more about my trip later on in this edition.

In this edition of the magazine, Robert Isenberg introduces us to the pura vida lifestyle in Costa Rica’s ‘green season’, and we also feature low season guides to Andermatt, Uganda, Maldives, Swedish Lapland, and Chiang Mai. Vijay Verghese explores whether greenwashing is taking advantage of travellers, whilst Stephanie Curtis-Raleigh shares reflections from a low season family trip to Bari, Puglia. In the latest Meet the Low Season Travellers series, I chat to Vancouver-based Riana Ang-Canning about her love of travelling with just a ‘teaspoon of adventure’, spending a winter exploring Europe, and her top tips for solo travelling. As always, we’d love to hear from our readers with any feedback, experiences, or ideas for future editions of the magazine, and you can always contact me on the email below. Until next time,

Ryan Maley Editor

Low Season Traveller

In March, I returned to SXSW in Austin, Texas, with a delegation of Manchester companies in order to help further strengthen the cultural and business ties between the two cities. I followed this with a few days exploring Houston, before a trip to Milan where incessant rains resulted in a few lovely spa and museum days with my wife, with plenty of great food and great wine. Low season travel is all about being adaptable, and we certainly made the most of our time despite the weather.

Low Season Traveller

Ged’s Update

Ged’s The global travel industry, once synonymous with endless horizons and boundless adventures, now finds itself at a crossroads. As borders reopen and wanderlust stirs after years of unprecedented pauses, destinations worldwide grapple with a paradox: the welcome return of tourists versus the pressing challenge of overtourism. In 2024, the narrative of travel is as much about where and when we journey as it is about how we do so responsibly. This week I started listening to “The Tourist Trap”, a BBC podcast hosted by Rajan Datar on the challenges facing global tourism. It’s a well rounded take on the problems with tourism today and it has encouraged me to reflect on the current state of global tourism, the escalating impact of overtourism, and the transformative potential of embracing low season travel. The State of Global Travel Today In the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, the travel industry is experiencing a dynamic resurgence. According to the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO), international tourism has rebounded to nearly 80% of pre-pandemic levels. While this revival brings economic rejuvenation to many destinations, it simultaneously reignites concerns about sustainability and environmental impact.

The Ripple Effects of Overtourism The consequences of overtourism extend beyond crowded landmarks and long queues. Environmental degradation is one of the most pressing concerns. Fragile ecosystems, from coral reefs to mountain trails, suffer under the weight of human traffic. Local wildlife is disrupted, and natural resources are depleted at unsustainable rates. (Left) Shirley Heights, Antigua

Venice in the high season

Cultural integrity is another casualty. The influx of tourists can dilute the authenticity of local traditions and ways of life, turning oncevibrant communities into commercialised caricatures of themselves. Residents often face increased living costs and diminished quality of life as their cities cater more to tourists than to locals. (This reminds me why we and our readers support the excellent work of The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage as they seek to protect and preserve our cultural heritage for future generations against the backdrop of ever growing tourism numbers.)

Low Season Traveller

Overtourism, a term now firmly embedded in the travel lexicon, describes the phenomenon where destinations are overwhelmed by visitor numbers, leading to environmental degradation, cultural erosion, and strained infrastructure. Cities like Venice, Barcelona, and Amsterdam, along with natural wonders like Machu Picchu and the Great Barrier Reef, exemplify the acute pressures of this phenomenon. And 2024 is set to record the highest number of tourist arrivals the world has ever received.

Ged’s Update Moreover, the infrastructure of many popular destinations is not designed to handle the sheer volume of visitors. This leads to overburdened public services, from waste management to transportation, straining the very resources that make these places attractive to begin with. The Low Season Solution Against this backdrop, the concept of low season travel emerges as a beacon of hope. Travelling during the quieter months offers a sustainable alternative that benefits both the traveller and the destination. Low season, loosely defined as the periods outside the peak tourist influx, varies by destination but universally promises a more serene and authentic experience. For instance, visiting Europe’s cultural capitals in winter rather than summer allows travellers to explore without the throngs. Imagine wandering through Rome’s ancient ruins or Paris’ art-laden streets with ample space to reflect and appreciate. Similarly, the Caribbean in the late summer and autumn months offers a tranquil paradise, far removed from the bustling winter crowds. Benefits of Low Season Travel Travelling during the low season provides numerous advantages: 1.

Enhanced Local Interaction: With fewer tourists around, there’s a greater opportunity to connect with locals, gaining deeper insights into their culture and daily lives.

Cost Savings: Flights, accommodations, and even activities are often cheaper during the off-peak months, making travel more affordable.

Environmental Relief: Reduced visitor numbers lessen the environmental footprint on delicate ecosystems and heritage sites.

Authentic Experiences: Without the distractions of large crowds, travellers can engage more genuinely with their surroundings, experiencing the true essence of their destination.

Community Support: By distributing tourism more evenly throughout the year, local economies benefit more consistently, reducing the seasonal boom-and-bust cycle.

Planning a low season trip involves a bit of research and flexibility. Weather can be unpredictable, and certain attractions may have limited hours. However, these potential pitfalls are often outweighed by the myriad benefits. Resources like Low Season Traveller offer invaluable insights into the best times to visit various destinations, ensuring an enriching and hassle-free journey.

Low Season Traveller

As the travel industry evolves, so too must our approach to exploring the world. Embracing low season travel is not just a personal choice; it is a collective step towards more responsible and sustainable tourism. By venturing off the beaten path and seeking the quieter corners of our favourite destinations, we can help preserve the very wonders that inspire our wanderlust. In the end, the most rewarding travel experiences are often found in the moments of stillness and connection, far from the madding crowds. So, the next time you plan a journey, consider the low season – where the world is just as beautiful, but a little less crowded, and a lot more genuine. Safe travels,

12 Rome in autumn (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Ged’s Update

Featured Destination: Costa Rica

Rica Low Season Traveller

Verdant rainforest and remote beaches in Costa Rica’s ‘green season’

14 Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Costa Rica

Braulio Carrillo National Park, Costa Rica

Low Season Traveller

By: Robert Isenberg

The rain doesn’t come right away. You wake up—early—to sunshine. The morning is golden and warm, and birds sing all around as you devour your breakfast of gallo pinto and eggs. You likely spend the whole morning in a delicious, humid warmth, browsing wooden bowls in shops or hurling yourself into Pacific waves. When noon comes, the clouds gather. Only then do you anticipate the coming rain. The skies darken, and by early afternoon, the tropical downfall begins. Brown waters flood the streets and fill impossibly deep gutters. Sheets of rain hammer the tin roofs all around. But you don’t mind, at least not as much as you thought you would. The greenery has never looked greener. Toads hop through the puddles. The air cools beyond the wrought iron gates of your guesthouse, and

Low Season: May-November you lie in a hammock, lazy as can be, with a bottle of Imperial. This, as the Costa Ricans love to tell you, is pura vida. In short, there’s no reason to fear Costa Rica’s rainy season, which nourishes the nation’s renowned biodiversity from May to November. Millions of tourists avoid this season, fearful of getting waterlogged; but Ticos (as locals are known) cherish the rainy season enough to rename it la temporada verde, or ‘green season.’ Wildlife flourishes during these months, as do the coffee farms and banana plantations that stock global supermarkets. Meanwhile, prices drop, crowds thin, and visitors find themselves in a lush wonderland of beaches, cloud forests, and thermal pools.

Featured Destination: Costa Rica The Jewel of Central America Costa Rica has achieved celebrity status in recent years, and ecotourists arrive from all over the planet. There are plenty of expats who remember Costa Rica ‘before it was cool,’ but those days of backpacker obscurity are long gone. The nation is serviced by two international airports, which shuttle in thousands of foreign travellers every day. The coasts are speckled with surfer hostels and all-inclusive resorts, and every little village has its well marked attractions, from Colonial buildings to edenic waterfalls. Costa Rica’s abolished military and quest for carbon-neutrality are now common knowledge. Yet high season travellers are often startled by what they find: they fly into Liberia, the smaller airport in the northwest province of Guanacaste, and they drive their rental cars through long expanses of dry fields and brittle forest. The air is often smoky with controlled fires, and a punishing sun shines in the powder-blue sky. Much of the land looks like rural Texas, with cows crowding under trees for shade. ‘Is this the real Costa Rica?’ travellers wonder. This doesn’t look like the pictures. Adding to the confusion, the Caribbean coast typically inverts the seasons. Tourists think they’re arriving in the dry season, which is true for the Pacific regions and Central Valley. But once they’ve successfully driven the breakneck highways through Braulio Carrillo National Park, they face unexpected drizzle in the seaside towns of Limón and Puerto Viejo. Central America is famous for its microclimates, and weather cycles in one patch of Costa Rica may be very different from the mountains and valleys just down the road. Three-toed sloth in the Costa Rican rainforest

Outdoors for Everyone In well-travelled towns like Tamarindo and La Fortuna, the options for tourists are nearly endless, no matter what the season. You can drive an ATV down gravel roads. You can ride a horse over volcanic passes. You can arrange a night-hike in the rainforest, and trained guides will shine flashlights on colourful snakes and frogs that seem to appear out of nowhere. These excursions cater to every level of wilderness experience; if you want to safely rappel into a ravine, all you have to do is find the right tour company and sign up. If you’d prefer to walk along sturdy steel bridges in the tropical canopy, you have limitless opportunities. The rainy season cuts wait-lists in half, and operators are always eager for adventurous customers.

Rainy Season Road Trip Most Ticos take buses from one town to another, and mass transit is a cheap and dependable way to get around. But Costa Rica is a land of rutted roads and secret nooks, and if you can handle some potholes and stray dogs, this is the perfect place to rent a car and road-trip your way overland. The gravel roads that snake around forested cliffs are exactly what SUVs were designed for. Many motorways deteriorate into rocky tracks. Newbies may feel intimidated, but Ticos tend to drive slowly, and the vistas—especially in the highlands—are beautiful beyond description. Exploring Costa Rica is like joining a nationwide scavenger hunt, where remote beaches, obscure hiking trails, little-known cascades, and mountaintop restaurants all await discovery by curious travellers. Many of these locations can only be reached by chatting with residents; driving as close as you can; and trekking the rest of the way on foot. When the clouds inevitably burst, a rental car can protect you from the drizzle.

Indoors for Everyone Costa Rica is best known for its ecotourism, but the country is also home to thousands of churches – and a good number of quality museums. Many of the refugios (animal shelters) have indoor habitats where injured wildlife can recuperate, giving tourists a chance to see ocelots and toucans in person. When the sky turns grey, locals love to slip into a soda (diner) and wait out the rain over coconut rice and fresh fruit. And remember: there’s always coffee. Because Costa Rica is located just a few degrees north of the equator, the hours of sunlight remain consistent throughout the year. The sun usually rises a little after 5 a.m. and sets around 5 p.m., and the nights can feel long. Bars are popular in Costa Rica, especially in the beach towns, and you can usually stumble into live music or a karaoke machine without even trying.

Low Season Traveller

Driving a quad bike on a beach in Costa Rica

Precipitation does have its downsides. Mountain bike rides and zip-line sessions may get postponed for hours, or even days. Storms often affect the clarity of ocean water, ruining visibility for snorkelers and scuba divers. The good news is, when one excursion gets cancelled, there’s almost always something else to replace it. If all else fails, try to find some local hot springs. You won’t regret it.

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Costa Rica

18 Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, Cartago

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Costa Rica

Traditional Gallo Pinto breakfast

FOOD AND DRINK Gallo Pinto The default Tico breakfast is gallo pinto (spotted rooster) a blend of rice, black beans, and mild seasoning. This simple dish usually accompanies eggs, fresh fruit, and – of course – coffee. Casado Why would a lunch platter be described as ‘married’? The casado is a well-rounded lunch of rice, beans, salad, fruit juice, and some kind of meat or fish. In short, it’s a ‘marriage’ of complementary foods. Guaro This clear liquor doesn’t look or taste like much, but it packs a wallop. Distilled from sugar, guaro is the national spirit of Costa Rica – and mixes well with almost anything.

INSIDER TIPS •

When parking, you will likely encounter the ‘guachiman’ (WATCH-ee-MAN), a man who hangs out on the street and watches your car. This is considered a legitimate job in Costa Rica, and he’ll expect about 500 colones for the service. You’ll get used to the guachimanes, who are usually older men in bigger towns. If you struggle with parallel parking, they’re a godsend.

•

If you want to shift lanes and can’t find an opening, it’s common for drivers to roll down their windows and make a slow flapping motion with their arm. Drivers almost always respect this request to merge.

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Drivers may flash their brights at you. Do you have a light out? Has your boot sprung open? Nine times out of ten, drivers are alerting you to a traffic cop positioned down the road.

Low Season Traveller

GOOD TO KNOW

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Photographers take note: Costa Rica is a humid country, especially in the rainy season, and camera lenses routinely fog up. The same goes for windshields and spectacles. Even bird watchers may find themselves wiping down their binoculars.

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Mosquitoes are a common nuisance, but in some regions, they carry dengue fever, a painful and debilitating sickness. Mosquitoes are most active in the wetter months, so keep an eye out for dengue advisories.

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Floods and landslides are common in the rainy season, especially in mountainous regions. Err on the side of caution, especially when fording streams in your four-by-four, and heed local warnings. Ticos know what they’re talking about. Ziplining in the Costa Rican rainforest (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Costa Rica

Is Greenwashing Taking Travellers to the Cleaners?

IS GREEN WASHING TAKING TRAVELLERS TO THE CLEANERS?

Holidaymakers should learn to separate scams from sustainability. By: Vijay Verghese

“The religious intensity of all this virtue signalling distracts from the cost-saving sleight of hand This mighty corporate conscience salve comes at some inconvenience that is slipping into the business.” to travellers who are urged to use less water, turn off the lights, reuse Every hotel wants you to save the planet. The messianic messages are everywhere - on little tent cards on the desk, proud notices on the bathroom door, and in dolorous the-end-is-nigh letters from the GM. Every hotel is saving the Yanomami Indians, Atlantic salmon and mountain gorillas.

Low Season Traveller

towels and sheets and eat less but pay more for organic produce on the menu.

Go vegan. Eat less red meat (unless it’s at our speciality steakhouse where grass-fed cows have been sustainably refashioned into methane-free bite-size morsels). Do no evil. Love your kids. Eat your celery. Try yoga. The religious intensity of all this virtue signalling distracts from the cost-saving sleight of hand that is slipping into the business. To be sure, many establishments are keen to follow a work culture that reduces their environmental footprint. Others simply follow their beaming accountants into all manner of mischief. It is here that travellers may find themselves victims of greenwashing and it is good to keep a sharp eye on potentially bogus sustainability claims.

Greenwashing is something travellers need to be aware of when searching for deals and scrolling through hotel sustainability boasts. Several hotel groups and individual players have put in sterling performances when it comes to serious conservation. The Four Seasons Kuda Huraa and Landaa Giraavaru Maldives resorts were among the first to bring marine biologists onto their teams to work on reef regeneration, protection of manta rays and turtle rehabilitation. In the same archipelago, Kudadoo is an entirely solar-powered escape, demonstrating that luxury need not be entirely compromised when it comes to eco-friendly design. Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Is Greenwashing Taking Travellers to the Cleaners?

Brushing teeth with wooden bamboo toothbrush

Peninsula similarly has a baked-in “sustainable luxury” strand in its business DNA. The Peninsula Beverly Hills has waterless urinals and a waterless car wash and operates plastic-free. The wastewater treatment system at the Peninsula Bangkok generates water for reuse, and across the group LED lights are replacing old fixtures. The Indian Taj hotels are largely plastic-free and are investing in waste water management, recycling, and sustainable designs. In 2023 French chain Accor teamed up with Ecotourism Australia to green certify all its hotels across the country. This alliance has generated further awareness of climate issues and threatened biodiversity in areas like Northern Queensland, which hosts the Great Barrier Reef. One Tree Per Booking Ovolo Hotels’ “Do Good Feel Good” philosophy hopes to impact beneficially on people, the community and the planet. It offers to plant a tree for each direct booking in partnership with the Eden Reforestation Projects, an NGO that works to restore landscapes, create jobs and protect ecosystems in places as diverse as Ethiopia, Nepal and the Philippines.

Low Season Traveller

Singapore’s Parkroyal Collection Marina Bay represents a minor triumph for sustainability. The lobby is awash in green and real birdsong. Normally staid conventioneers love the place and there is no quibble about energy saving and filtered water - in glass bottles. It is well worth a visit.

this, possibly unintended, is a diversion of tourist traffic to low-carbonfootprint areas. Lower-cost accommodations in rural areas tend to have a less wasteful manner and travellers visiting a heritage site in the desert or at a wildlife reserve are often more willing to conserve water and electricity and opt for a ceiling fan instead of an air-conditioner. According to the World Tourism Organization, travel as a whole accounts for an estimated 5% of global carbon emissions with hotels accounting for just 1%. It may seem a small number but every percentage point makes a difference. Flying Green With KLM making the move to sustainable aviation fuel (SAF) with a 1% SAF charge passed on to passengers (who seem receptive to the idea), it seems the world is reaching a tipping point where travellers finally realise they are part of the solution. Changi Airport in Singapore is at the forefront of this stimulus and wants all departing aircraft by 2026 to utilise at least 1% of sustainable aviation fuel in the mix (going up to 5% by 2030). This could mean slightly higher ticket prices as airlines make the shift. Creating demand for aviation biofuel - estimated at over US$100 billion in value in 2022 - in turn prods producers into action and brings in funding for research and development. It is a beneficial cycle.

Its sister hotel Pan Pacific Orchard offers similar green features with a stunning, if sweaty, open-air check-in where guests imagine themselves at a tropical resort rather than a city hotel.

Carbon offsets (with a few trees planted here and there to assuage business class guilt) don’t really encourage constructive thinking on this matter, or lifestyle changes.

In Hong Kong, the reimagined and refitted Lanson Place Causeway Bay is back with a substantial investment in its Swedish Nordaq water filtration system. No plastics. Just glass bottles.

Governments can do more to come up with incentives and tax breaks for companies developing biofuel or opting for green certification like LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) and ISO 14001. While these terms mean little to most travellers, they’re a starting point for an environmentally friendly future.

But sustainability need not be just for the rich and famous. In India, Airbnb has teamed up with the Ministry of Tourism to bring out an attractive Soul of India site focusing on paths less trod and heritage sites that richly showcase cultural diversity. A useful by-product of

This article first appeared in Smart Travel Asia in March 2024.

Singapore Changi Airport (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Is Greenwashing Taking Travellers to the Cleaners?

Low Season Traveller

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Low Season Traveller

27 Boat crusie, Barbados

Featured Destination: Andermatt, Switzerland

Low Season Traveller

Historic Alpine village of snowy peaks and fertile valleys

28 Road heading through Andermatt, Switzerland

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Andermatt, Switzerland

The Schöllenen gorge and Teufelsbrücke (Devil’s Bridge)

Low Season Traveller

By: Claire French

How do you get Satan to build you a bridge? The folk of the Ursern Valley in the Swiss Alps will happily enlighten you on this and the many myths of their magical region. Come see the 16th century Devil’s Bridge spanning the sheer Schöllenen Gorge. It’s just one example of the remarkable feats that facilitated hugely important Alpine trading routes. Historic Andermatt lies 1444 metres above sea level, directly over the Gotthard tunnel. For centuries it was a vital intersection connecting east to west, north to south, a hub for travellers, culture, and commerce. These days Andermatt is growing in popularity once more as tourists rediscover the fairytale village of stunning mountain scenery, running rivers and forested slopes. Just 90 minutes from the international

Low season: April-June, September-November airports of Zürich or Milan, it feels like you’re a million miles away. Locals and visitors love to reconnect with nature here while enjoying the burgeoning growth of its modern infrastructure. Essentially known for great winter sports, peak time to appreciate Andermatt is mid-December to March, with a second peak in the warm July and August summer months. Low season travellers though are increasingly benefitting from the reduced rates and crowd free slopes of the spring and autumn periods. As the snow begins to clear, hiking trails become more accessible and green mountain sides emerge dotted with wildflowers, while wildlife comes out of hibernation. Autumn is beautiful with stunning colours and as the snow returns the early ski season sees few visitors and a chance to have the slopes to yourself against clear blue skies.

Featured Destination: Andermatt, Switzerland Andermatt Awakens Until recently Andermatt was known as an important military base, a strategic centre for both World Wars and later the Cold War with up to 4000 military personnel in residence. In the 1990s the base disbanded, families and young people flooded out, and the area was left pretty much abandoned and purposeless. Enter investor Samih Sawiris who has revolutionised the tourist infrastructure of Andermatt’s Gemsttock Mountain ski resort, building 2 hotels, 16 apartment houses, and a golf course. At the centre of his project is the Piazza Gottardo with boutiques, bakeries, chocolate shops and restaurants serving authentic Swiss cuisine. Despite initial concerns, the new developments are done with the utmost sympathy to the original, traditional-style architecture, rendering a destination steeped in history, nature and excellent facilities. 850km of Hiking Trails With routes leading out in all directions, you’d better get ready to don your walking boots. There’s lots of info for hikers like maps, apps and well established tracks taking in secluded valleys, crystal-clear streams, mirror like lakes and sky high peaks. Spring and autumn are perfect as many trails become impassable in the winter. For a stroll try the Schöllenen Circular Trail passing the Devil’s Bridge. It takes a mere 30 minutes and there’s a restaurant en route. In contrast, many trails are several days in duration and incorporate overnight stops at some of the numerous cosy Alpine huts or guesthouses en route. There are also many themed trails such as the herbal hike for the collection and identification of edible plants, and the hike & taste route which builds up an excellent appetite for local delicacies.

Gütsch-Express cable car abover Andermatt, Switzerland

TOP EXPERIENCES

FOOD & DRINK

Hike the Unteralpreuss Spend time in this lovely and relatively easy hiking valley. It remains a unique area of pristine nature, beauty and wildflowers. Follow the idyllic river, as it tumbles over its rocky course towards the Reuss, taking a paddle or even a swim. At the valley’s end is a SAC camping hut for overnighting.

Restaurant Tell, Gotthardstrasse 97 Run by a Swiss – South African couple, this venue, in the middle of the main street, serves up delicious food with a twist. They do a mean rosti with a host of variations. The slow cooked oxtail is a good choice or try the curried beef mince bobotie with a fantastic aubergine version for veggies.

Take a Cable Car Not just for skiers, Andermatt’s cable cars run year round. The Schneehüenerstock Express travels from the Oberalp Pass to a height of 2600m for fabulous views across Ursern and 100 mountain peaks. Dine on the restaurant terrace, hike the Senda Sursilvana or spend the day at Lake Lutersee.

Ochsen, Gotthardstrasse 72 If you love cheese, you’ll love Ochsen. This is a really traditional place specialising in fondue and raclette washed down by local schnapps, although there are plenty of other items on the menu. The atmosphere inside the stone walls is always buzzing and the service friendly. Book in advance.

Glacier Express Take an unforgettable trip on board this historic train travelling daily from glamorous St Moritz to charming Zermatt and the Matterhorn. The 7½ hour journey takes in sheer ravines, dark tunnels, mountain passes and riverways. Enjoy it from panoramic windows while dining on a 3-course meal.

The Japanese at the Chedi Andermatt Undoubtedly the highest Japanese restaurant in Switzerland, this venue has recently been awarded a Michelin star. If the sushi, sashimi, crab and wagyu aren’t enough, there’s also the mountain views and elegant rustic design to hold your attention, not to mention the country’s finest sake collection.

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Cycling Alpine Passes Cycling is a tremendous spring and autumn sport. Many routes open to cyclists even before they are accessible by car, usually in around May, making cycling at this time a wonderfully peaceful experience. There are many excellent circuits for beginners as well as more experienced cyclists, and lots of information available for planning your adventure. Bike centres offer expert guidance, do maintenance and repairs and if you don’t want the hassle of bringing your own, they also rent out mountain bikes, road bikes, and the increasingly popular e-bikes.

Featured Destination: Andermatt, Switzerland INSIDER TIPS •

From 1 May to 31 October, visitors can get a summer ‘digital guest card’ which offers a range of discounts and offers on railways, museums and experiences. Pair this with the Mountain & Train ticket on all mountain railways in Andermatt, Sedrun and Disentis, and the Matterhorn Gotthard Railway between Realp and Disentis.

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James Bond fans won’t want to miss the ‘Goldfinger Curve’ immortalised in the 1964 movie. The sweeping vistas of steep mountainsides strewn with hairpin bends on the Uri side of the Furka Pass were the setting of an intense car chase for 007 Sean Connery and his iconic Aston Martin DB5.

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Pick up an Urner Hütten-Pass from the Tourist Information Office. This stamp card includes 23 participating mountain huts in Uri that welcome hikers and mountaineers in the summer months, and collecting stamps from at least 3 huts enters you into a draw for prizes!

GOOD TO KNOW Andermatt has been the subject of a 2019 documentary series chronicling the development of the mountain area from a military base to a popular tourist destination. The 12 short episodes dubbed ‘The Awakening of the Mystic Mountains’ follow locals, residents and businesses in their daily lives.

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For the serious golfer, the 18-hole, 130 hectare Andermatt Swiss Alps Gold Course offers excellent facilities, top coaching and a unique backdrop of mountains, lakes and meadows. Designed by Kurt Rossknecht to work within the rocky environment, it’s won awards like ‘Best in Switzerland 2017’.

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In the legendary Gotthard Massif, the 85km long Four Headwaters Trail takes in contrasting landscapes and includes the four sources of the Rhine, Reuss, Ticino and Rhone rivers. It is usually completed in five days and some operators provide a luggage transfer service to your accommodation.

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32 Passenger train descends on Andermatt, Switzerland Andermatt, Switzerland (Right)

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Featured Destination: Andermatt, Switzerland

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The Joy of Train Travel: A Rail Adventure Through Europe

34 Bernina Express train travelling through the snow

The Joy of Train Travel A rail adventure through Europe

Low Season Traveller

The Joy of Train Travel: A Rail Adventure Through Europe

St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna

By: Ryan Maley Photos: Ryan Maley Sat on the iconic Bernina Express, the panoramic train that traverses the Swiss Alps from Tirano in Italy to Chur in Switzerland, it’s hard to think of a better way to travel.

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“Every season is different, every day is different. Sometimes the rivers have more water, sometimes the mountains have more snow. The colour of the grass and the trees are changing. There’s a lot to see, and it’s worth seeing.”

This is the advice of Joe Bearth, passionate Train Manager aboard our journey on the Bernina Express. As someone who travels regularly working on the various Rhaetian Railway routes, there’s few people who can better encapsulate the experience of a train trip across Europe than Joe. I’ve been fascinated by European train travel for some time now. A recent and quick trip through Spain from Málaga to Valencia via Madrid did little more than whet the appetite, and I have casually been planning routes I could take around Europe for some time. I had an Interrail pass booked before Covid postponed travel in 2020, and so I decided that 2024 would be the year that I tried it again.

The Joy of Train Travel: A Rail Adventure Through Europe I decided on Interrail for the flexibility and affordability it offered, especially when taking multiple trains in one day. Though my trip was fairly rigid, Interrail makes it really easy to make decisions on the day and activate your pass if you’re happy to travel. It’s because of this that the Interrail pass is often associated with gap-year students travelling around Europe, however it’s also a great option for all ages, including families looking to introduce children to the joys of train travel. I invited my dad and stepmum, Mandy, along for the ride, to explore how easy Interrail was to use, and to showcase the best of Europe in the low season.

Views down Via Po, Turin

Turin Famously the birthplace of Fiat, Turin is the capital of the elegant Piedmont region of Italy. Through no fault of its own, Turin often gets overlooked in favour of the glamourous neighbouring Milan or the climate in the cities to the south. However, those that make the trip to the region’s capital, easily accessed by train from Milan or Bergamo or via a direct flight to the city’s international airport, will find stunning architecture and strong gastronomy, highlights of which are the local Barolo wine and white truffles. We started our journey in Turin, arriving in the afternoon after catching an early flight from Málaga to Bergamo, taking the train from Bergamo to Milano Centrale and then from Milano Centrale to Turin. Seat reservations were only needed on the Milano Centrale to Turin high-speed line at 15 euros per person, and the first class coach on this Frecciarossa train was fantastic, with luxuriously comfortable seats and wine and biscuits handed out along the 50 minute journey. We spent time in Turin searching for the street and apartment that my mum and dad stayed in when hitchhiking around Europe some 40 years ago, and even had an unlikely reunion with an old friend from the city. A day of rain made exploring more difficult but we still saw plenty of the city in between stints inside drinking wine or eating fantastic food. We particularly enjoyed the cosy Caffetteria Cairoli, a small living room-style restaurant located off Via Po popular with locals and serving a limited but delicious home-cooked menu and local wine.

Bernina Express Following our stay in Turin, we took the 4-hour trip to Tirano, via Milan, to catch the iconic Bernina Express across the Swiss Alps. Operating between Tirano and Chur, the Bernina Express has been in operation for around 50 years. Boasting the highest set of tracks in Europe and the steepest in the world, the Bernina Express traverses almost 200 bridges and goes through 55 tunnels on a truly once-in-alifetime journey. We took the 14:24 train after grabbing lunch and supplies in the small town of Tirano, which is well worth taking an hour to explore. We booked seat reservations in the 1st class panoramic carriage, which cost around 30 euros per person with the Interrail pass, and offered huge windows in the cabin so that you don’t miss a moment of the spectacular journey. Our Train Manager Joe looked after us along the way, taking time to chat with all of the passengers, and point out all of the sights and attractions as we passed through small towns and villages, open countryside, and landscapes thick with snow on the 4-hour trip. Zürich We arrived in Zürich after taking a short train journey from Chur, the final destination of the Bernina Express. An eminently walkable city, Zürich is located on the banks of the eponymous Lake Zürich, and many of its famous landmarks, museums, and galleries can be found in District 1, which lies either side of the river and includes the city’s old town.

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Boarding a train at Milano Centrale station

Other highlights of Turin include the Egypt Museum, the second most important collection of Egyptian artefacts after the Egyptian Museum of Cairo; the Mole Antonelliana, an unmissable emblem of Turin which houses the national film museum; and on the second Sunday of every month, the famous Balon Flea Market in Porta Palazzo, where you can enjoy vintage finds before heading to the neighbouring indoor food market. A short tram ride to nearby Lingotto is a must for fans of the automobile industry, as an old Fiat factory has been redesigned into a multi-use venue whilst retaining an original car test track on the roof. Architecture enthusiasts will enjoy important baroque buildings in the city centre such as Palazzo Reale and Palazzo Madama, set within the sprawling Piazza Castello.

The Joy of Train Travel: A Rail Adventure Through Europe We purchased food and drink on board, including Schnitzel, soup, and Austrian lager, which we could either eat in the restaurant cabin or have delivered to our table. The first class coach was comfortable through the whole journey, and fairly quiet despite not being the dedicated quiet cabin. As the sun was setting at around 8:30pm, we arrived in Vienna. Vienna Despite researching the city before visiting, we were blown away by the elegance and grandeur of the city. Thanks to its strategic location in Europe and on the River Danube, a home of the Habsburg dynasty, and a period acting as capital of the Holy Roman Empire, Vienna is a city of huge cultural and political importance. Coffeehouse culture has undoubtedly been a staple of life in Vienna for some time, and famous names from Beethoven to Freud have been known to have frequented cafés in Vienna. The culture remains strong to this day, and there are many cafés across the city where you can enjoy what has been awarded an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO. Café Central is perhaps the most famous, though we opted for the 120 year-old Café Prückel, with its 1950s interior, tuxedo-clad waiters, and homemade pastries.

Treats on board the first class train from Turin to Milan

We were lucky to stay in a large apartment in the old town, which meant that we could easily explore the main sights during the short stay in the city. An easy circular route from either side of the river takes in sights including the trio of The Church of St. Peter, Fraumünster, and Grossmünster with their iconic clocks, towers, and spires. On the banks of Lake Zürich, a sculpture of Ganymed, framed with the great expanse of the lake behind, is a favourite place to sit and appreciate the views. A short walk through parkland down the banks of the lake takes you to the serene Chinese Gardens, a gift from Zürich’s twined city of Kunming, in China’s Yunnan province. Make sure not to miss a walk to Lindenhof, a historically significant area of the city that now provides an excellent viewpoint over the city, as well as a meeting point for chess-enthusiasts who play on huge chessboards in the park.

The wealth of the city is highlighted is some of the city’s most notable architecture, including the neo-Gothic 19th century Votivkirche; the huge town hall set in Rathausplatz; the Greek-style Austrian Parliament Building, fronted by a statue of Athena; and The Hofburg, a former imperial palace of the Habsburg dynasty. One of the city’s most important landmarks is St. Stephen’s Cathedral, built on the remains of a 12th century church and with its recognisable multicoloured, tiled roof. After exploring some of the city’s architecture we stopped in Salm Bräu, a brewery located south of the city centre in what was once an 18th century vineyard and wine cellar before becoming a convent. We sat in the sun in the courtyard whilst sampling their own beer, specialty breads, and hearty food, though a seat in the extensive interiors looked just as interesting. Neighbouring Salm Bräu is the Belvedere Castle, originally constructed as a summer residence for Prince Eugene of Savoy and now housing a museum.

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Though Zürich’s bars and restaurants are known for being expensive, drinking in public is legal here, so to save some money you can purchase a drink from the supermarket and join the locals sitting along the shore of Lake Zürich. However, if you’re determined to head out for food, don’t miss the local staple of cheese fondue and bread from places such as Adler’s Swiss Chuchi Restaurant. Münsterhof square, located beside Fraumünster, is a great place to grab a coffee or glass of wine and sit in the sun, or to cosy up under one of the blankets provided.

Zürich to Vienna We booked a reservation on the almost 8-hour journey between Zürich and Vienna in the first class cabin, at a supplement of just €3 per person. Departing from Zürich’s main station at 12:40, we had a final walk around the city centre and grabbed a coffee and some supplies for the train, before finding our coach and boarding. After the spectacular sights along the Bernina Express that we’d experienced just a few days prior, we were worried about being underwhelmed by the longest train journey that we had booked. However, the trip was another memorable one, passing through Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Germany, and Austria, and through gorgeous green countryside, small towns and villages, large cities like Salzburg and Innsbruck, and even passing through snow as it trundled alongside the imposing Alps.

Views over Zürich from Lindenhof viewpoint

The Joy of Train Travel: A Rail Adventure Through Europe

The Blue Church of Bratislava

Our first stop was the city’s famous Church of St. Elizabeth, better known as the ‘Blue Church’, built in the early-1900s. In the old town, Michael’s Gate is the only remaining feature of the Mediaeval fortifications of the city, whilst in the main town square you can find the Old Town Hall and 16th century Maximilian’s Fountain. One of the most striking landmarks in the city is Bratislava Castle, which has overlooked the Danube and the old town for centuries. Recently undergoing significant restoration, the castle now houses Slovak National Museum exhibits and the grounds provide a fantastic view over the city and of the famous St. Martin’s Cathedral, where a number of royals from the Habsburg Dynasty were crowned. Make sure not to miss the two famous statues of Cumil, a sewage worker resting on a manhole, and Schöne Náci, a local street character, whilst exploring the old town.

Food and drink is extremely affordable in Bratislava and the beer culture is strong, with a range of local and international beers costing around €2.90 and several places offering tasting flights. There are plenty of places to eat in the old town, with traditional Slovak food popular. Head through the streets of the old town or wander down the tree-lined square in front of the Slovak National Theatre for a range of bars and cafés. I left my dad and Mandy early in the morning on our final day in Bratislava, as they were catching an earlier flight from Vienna which was a couple of train rides away from the city. I spent the morning wandering along the Danube where I sat in the shade of Most SNP, the main bridge from the old town topped with a panoramic restaurant and observation deck. In the afternoon I ate and drank my way through the old town before taking a short taxi ride to Bratislava Airport. As I stood for over an hour in Bratislava Airport, waiting for my uncomfortable low-cost flight, I thought back to Joe’s words as we were ambling in comfort over the Swiss Alps. There really is so much to see, and travelling by train truly gives you the opportunity to see it all.

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Bratislava Just a short 1-hour train ride from imperial Vienna is Slovakia’s capital of Bratislava. A thriving city sitting on the banks of the Danube, the city sits as an ideal bridge between Eastern and Western Europe. After catching a taxi from the train station to our apartment on the top floor of a block to the east of the city, we headed into the charming, car-free old town. Temperatures were great for mid-April, with clear blue skies and mid-20 degrees celsius, which made for perfect conditions to explore the city.

The Joy of Train Travel: A Rail Adventure Through Europe

Bernina Express Train in Tirano, Italy

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Top tips for the lnterrail Pass 40

Learn the lingo. Understand what a travel day entails, and how to activate this in the app and add journeys to it. Learn about seat reservations, and which trains and routes you should/need to purchase reservations for, as well as whether you can purchase the reservations through the Interrail platform or direct with the train company. Make sure you activate your travel day and add the train before the train departs. If you activate after the train has departed, it will alert the conductor when they scan your pass and they can refuse travel.

Check the prices of trains to maximise value. You may want to use your pass to get from Vienna to Bratislava, but it might actually be better to pay a small fee and save your travel day for longer, more expensive journeys.

Do your research. Lots of Facebook groups and forums have people who will help plan the best routes and connections, share their own experiences, or advise on must-visit destinations. Travel in the low season! Travelling outside of peak seasons means fewer crowds, cheaper accommodation, changing scenery, and quieter trains.

Birds eye view of a town from the Bernina Express (Right)

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Leave the crowds behind and become one (perhaps the only one!) with nature. Northland is home to ancient Kauri tree forests, thousands of years in the making, where trees are Gods and legends grow before your eyes. Best enjoyed in the cooler months when the curious crowds and buses are gone, our evergreen forests are relaxed and the only thing louder than your thoughts is native birdsong and Papatüänuku (Earth Mother) breathing. Tane Mahuta ‘Lord of the Forest’ Waipoua Forest, Northland New Zealand

NORTHLANDNZ.COM/VISIT

Featured Destination: Uganda

Uganda

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Encounter gorillas in the jungles of Africa’s Pearl

42 Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park, Uganda

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Featured Destination: Uganda

Fishing on Lake Victoria, Uganda

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By: Claire French

Hand out-stretched, each knuckle, nail and fingerprint perfectly visible, the gentle giant that is a mountain gorilla, offers an invitation to share a brief but powerful moment of understanding. With calculations surmising that humans and gorillas share up to 98% of their DNA, it’s likely that you’ve been on dates with people you have less in common with than this calm, aware, wide-eyed individual. Watching the family of your new friends play, graze, wrestle and chill out together, was it worth trekking many jungle miles for this opportunity? Absolutely it was. Winston Churchill coined the term ‘Pearl of Africa’ in his 1908 book discussing the beauty and diversity of the animals, birds and reptiles of Uganda. This land-locked East African nation has been through a lot

Low season: April-May, November in the century since then, but undoubtedly its magnificence remains a huge draw. A position over the Equator means you can expect wet and dry seasons rather than the quarterly changes that many visitors are familiar with. The driest periods June to September and December to January are the obvious choice for crowds seeking some Ugandan magic, but a low season experience results in a more intimate, you might even say more spiritual, connection with a special land and its inhabitants, both human and slightly less human. To this end we’d recommend visiting in May or November. The early rains begin at the end of March and continue through April. They are known as the long rains, not because they last longer, but due to heavy downpours. During April, many parks close, tracks become boggy,

Featured Destination: Uganda and travellers are likely to get stuck. So, choose a date in mid-May when things are opening back up, but prices remain low. At the other end of the year, November is a good option, during the short rains, for excellent rates on accommodation and tours, less congestion in parks and a more relaxed pace to enjoy indigenous traditions while supporting communities of guides, artisans and farmers through the economic instability of seasonal swings in tourist activity. Wild and Natural Uganda might be best known for its gorilla and chimpanzee trekking opportunities, but with ten stunningly beautiful national parks, there are also plenty of chances to see the ‘Big Five’ - lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and buffalo. Professional guides advise on how to enjoy the best of Ugandan wildlife even in low season. Murchison Falls National Park is the largest of the protected areas and is home to phenomenal wildlife, over 450 bird species, and the thunderous waters themselves, known locally as Kabalega Falls. It’s here that the Nile squeezes through rocks just 7 metres apart. Another favourite hotspot is

Fair Trade Matooke Bananas in Uganda

Queen Elizabeth National Park, renowned for its tree-climbing lions, but if you really want to get off the beaten track, consider Kidepo Valley, the most isolated of the country’s reserves. Adrenaline Junkies On the northern shores of massive Lake Victoria, source of the River Nile, the city of Jinja is a popular centre to get your fix of exciting activities. Imagine breakfasting in a hot air balloon at sunrise, or enjoying boat trips, paddle boarding or horse riding in breath-taking scenery surrounded by colourful wildlife and birds. Or are you into something rather more exhilarating? There are plenty of professional operators offering adventurous opportunities. Try bungee jumping from a height of 40 metres into the waters of the Nile far below, white water rafting on grade 5 rapids or zip-lining through a forest filled with primates. With constant equipment checks and continuous training, these activities might be safe, but you’ll be left feeling almost as wild as the jungles around you.

TOP EXPERIENCES

Chimpanzees of Kibale National Park Accessible from Fort Portal, in Kibale you’ll hike for hours in tropical rainforest to trek one of the dozen or so families of chimpanzees that live in this protected area. They’re not easy to keep up with, as they are never still for long, playing, hunting, and swinging high up in the trees. Visit a Traditional Market The hub of village life, this is where communities interact and meet with friends. Especially in low season, it’s a chance to learn about a genuine, vibrant culture. Taste some Ugandan beers or the wine made from yellow sweet bananas while enjoying the age-old music often played there. Mountain gorilla in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda

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Bwindi Impenetrable Forest Gorillas It’s not called impenetrable for nothing, and is not for the faint hearted. Follow your guide through the jungle as they machete their way through thick vegetation on high mist covered slopes and come respectfully close to these incredible endangered families in their own natural habitat.

Featured Destination: Uganda FOOD AND DRINK Fishing Village Restaurant Located just 10 miles from Entebbe International Airport, this local place is right on the shores of Lake Victoria. Friendly atmosphere accompanies fresh organic food and fish is of course a specialty. There’s also a pizza oven, now placed outside the premises after it set fire to the grass roof. Banana Eco Village Restaurant A charming rustic oasis under a canopy of trees, with plenty of birds and monkeys around, this retreat centre in the village of Nalugala Kitala, near Kampala, serves tasty local and international dishes. Don’t miss the juicy Ugandan pineapple. Also offers traditional cooking classes. Gardens Restaurant This popular and friendly venue in Fort Portal serves an excellent African lunch buffet which offers a great chance to try traditional African dishes. Also on offer are good burgers, curries and pizza as well as local coffee and alcohol. It’s a fab place to relax and peoplewatch for a while.

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The low seasons in Uganda are the times when most animals give birth to their young. Visitors at this time can enjoy a rare chance to see baby elephants, impala, hippos, zebras, giraffes and lion cubs curiously venturing out, wobbling their way into their lush new world.

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Taking place each November, Empango is a powerful celebration of the ascension of the current king to the throne of the Tooro Kingdom. Events last for four days with the public able to attend. The opening is marked with the Royal drum roll, heard only for this occasion.

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Try matooke, a plantain banana typical of the area. It’s cooked in a stew to a potato-like consistency, or steamed in vine leaves with binyebwa peanut sauce. Also on the menu are white ants; rolex, a flat bread filled with eggs, cabbage and tomato; and firinda, mashed beans.

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GOOD TO KNOW •

The Justice Tourism Foundation JFT offers a unique volunteer program from 1 to 24 weeks with integrated development experiences in local grassroots initiatives to improve the lives of those in rural or marginalised communities. Fees apply at a reasonable cost.

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Entebbe is Uganda’s only international airport, some 25 miles from the capital Kampala. It’s known as the “Airport on the Equator” due to lying at zero degrees latitude. Another top spot to get the obligatory ‘foot in each hemisphere’ pic is the marker in Kayabwe town.

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Lake Victoria, the largest in Africa, has a coastline in excess of 2000 miles forming a border between Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania. Since the mid-19th century it’s held a claim as the source of the Nile, although explorations into its tributaries to find the true source continue.

46 Sunset over Kisoro, Uganda (Right)

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Featured Destination: Uganda

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Meet the Low Season Travellers

Low Season Travellers

Photos: Riana Ang-Canning

Riana Ang-Canning is a travel blogger and copywriter based in Vancouver, Canada. Starting writing about travel from her dorm room at the University of British Columbia, Riana has now lived, worked, studied, volunteered or travelled across six continents and visited almost 50 countries. In this interview, Riana shares what inspires her to write about everyday adventures, her top tips for solo travelling, and some of her favourite things to do in Vancouver. Ryan: Where did you first discover your love of travel?

Riana: I like to say the trip that started it all for me was when I went to Europe for the first time on my first ever solo trip at 19. I was blown away by everything there was to see, eat and do. It absolutely gave me the travel bug! Ryan: Why and when did you start Teaspoon of Adventure?

What started as a personal diary then became a place for me to let my parents know I was still alive when I was gallivanting around the world. It then morphed into more of what it is now: a place for me to share my travel tips and resources with like-minded travellers who crave adventure, but mostly in small doses. Ryan: You aim to inspire the ‘everyday person’ to travel. What are some of your top tips to make the most of travel whilst living a ‘normal’ life? Riana: Start small. If you don’t have the time, budget or experience to spend months backpacking across Australia or hopping trains in India, you can still plan a smaller adventure. Explore the next town over on a long weekend, add on a few personal days to a business trip and keep dreaming of the big trip you’ll get to take one day. Doubtful Sound, New Zealand

Riana with her husband, Colin, and dog, Ellie, in Cesky Krumlov

Find the travel pace that works for you. It can be tempting to try and squeeze in 10 cities in 10 days if you can only get 10 days off from your job. But often, that leaves you burned out and missing the best parts of travel. While slow travel is a privilege and not for everyone, I do encourage travellers to slow down and savour moments, knowing they’ll never be able to see and do everything. Skip high season travel. If you have the flexibility, aim to travel in the low season. Low season travel is less crowded, less expensive and much more enjoyable. If you have limited vacation time, you don’t want to spend it all sweating in line at the Colosseum in July. Ryan: You spent a year living in Prague in 2019. What were some of your favourite memories of exploring Europe outside of the peak seasons?

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Riana: I first started Teaspoon of Adventure in 2012 from my university dorm room. I was completely disenfranchised with school and wanted more than anything to go on an adventure. Since I couldn’t quite go on a big adventure yet, I decided to start with just a “teaspoon” by writing about the adventures I could go on while still in school.

Meet the Low Season Travellers

Singapore in January 2019

Riana: My husband and I went to Rome and Naples in November 2019 and it ended up being the perfect time to visit these popular cities in Italy. We did day trips to Pompeii and Herculaneum and had huge sections of the archeological sites all to ourselves. In Rome, we were able to walk right into the Vatican for a tour - no lining up required! Both cities were still quite lively, but definitely less crowded than during the summer. The weather was also pretty great; we got a bit of rain in Naples but enjoyed t-shirt weather in Rome!

Low Season Traveller

Ryan: What are some of your tips for solo travelling?

Riana: If you’re going on your first solo trip, don’t worry about pushing too far outside of your comfort zone. You can start small with a shorter trip, a trip close to home or a trip in a familiar environment, such as somewhere you’ve been before or where they speak a language you know. Once you build up your confidence, you can stretch a little farther on your next solo trip. Don’t worry about being lonely! I often find I’m the most social when I’m on a solo trip. Something about being alone makes you more approachable. It’s much easier to chat up store vendors, tour guides and friendly locals when you’re by yourself. You can also always join group tours to find a travel buddy.

But at the same time, don’t miss out on the chance to actually be by yourself. Solo travel is such a treat. We so rarely get to spend a trip following only our own itinerary, doing what we want to do when we want to do it. Take yourself out for a meal or coffee and enjoy your own company! Ryan: Can you share some of your favourite under-the-radar things to do in Vancouver? Riana: If the Stanley Park Seawall is getting a little too crowded for you, you can head out to New Westminster and check out the Quay. In the summer, there are volleyball courts, parks, food trucks and a really nice pier to walk along. But my favourite thing in Vancouver has to be the food! We have incredible sushi, seafood and other Asian cuisine here. Some of my favourites are Banana Leaf, Tom Sushi and Fanny Bay Oysters. After dinner, walk down to one of the local beaches and enjoy the sunset! Ryan: What destinations/experiences are coming up on the bucket list? Riana: I’m currently planning a trip back to Japan this fall. My husband and I are planning to bring our moms, who are both celebrating milestones this year, a big birthday and a retirement. I can’t think of a better way to celebrate than seeing fall foliage and eating delicious food in Japan!

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Meet the Low Season Travellers

Photos clockwise from top: Riana in Nice, France; Riana at the Temples of Angkor in Cambodia; Riana at the Roman Forum in Rome; Riana in Chefchaouen, Morocco; Riana attending a wedding in Eswatini; Riana at Herculaneum

Featured Destination: Maldives

Maldives

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An intense colour palette enveloping a thousand isles and boundless seas

52 Water villas in the Maldives

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Featured Destination: Maldives

Hawksbill turtle underwater in the Maldives

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By: Claire French

What’s the best date you’ve ever been on? How about gazing at the translucent rings on Saturn at Soneva Fushi’s own observatory while a resident astronomer explains how Maldivian fishermen follow the stars over the Indian Ocean? Then, feeling hungry, negotiate the hanging rope walkway across to the resort’s tree-top restaurant, a fairytale spot with delicious fresh cuisine served high above the jungle gardens, sugar white sand and azure ocean below. Well, it’s one way to work up an appetite. Or kayaking, paddleboarding, jet-skiing, snorkelling, parasailing, windsurfing, kite-surfing, spa treatments or just relaxing in a private paradise that is almost too good to be true. Kick off your shoes, lose your worries and reset mind and body.

Low season: May-August Lying 600 miles southwest of Sri Lanka and India, this island nation is truly remote and as such has boasted a reputation for exclusivity and uber luxury. The archipelago is dispersed over a vast 115 square miles and is broken down into the main groups of Malé Atolls, Central Atolls, and South Atolls. Only about 200 of these idyllic isles are inhabited. Several are made up entirely of a single top class resort offering the highest levels of service and comfort such as OZEN by Atmosphere at Maadhoo, Four Seasons at Landaa Giraavaru and Waldorf Astoria Ithaafushi. In 2009 however, the Maldivian government granted permission for guesthouses to welcome overseas visitors making it possible to travel the Maldives on a more attainable budget. If you can splash out however, the low May to October season is the time to do it. Statistically there is a higher amount of rainfall but overall there is still

Featured Destination: Maldives plenty of sun with highs around 29 °C. Costs at this time can as much as halve and you get much more space on the resorts. Seas can be a little rougher which is fantastic for surfers and there are safe areas to swim as many islands are protected by the encircling reefs. Island Hopping Once the not insignificant question of budget is out of the way, you may still find it difficult to decide between islands. Look carefully as some resorts specialise in honeymooners, in families, in watersports, or in Ayurvedic Spa treatments. Due to the distance between islands many people pick one resort and stay for a couple of weeks. Wonderful though that is, it is possible to visit local islands such as Maafushi, Guraidhoo or Dhiffushi. Each has a distinct personality and is fascinating to explore, meeting people, wandering unpaved streets past cafes, mosques, schools and beautiful local beaches. Not least, you can visit Malé, one of the smallest capitals in the world with its bustling fish market, colourful buildings and national museum.

Traditional Mas Huni breakfast consistig of tuna, coconut, onion and chili with chapati tortillas

TOP EXPERIENCES Stay in an Overwater Villa Serene thatch-roof cabins where you can drift to sleep with the ocean right there below you. Many offer rustic luxury, while the most expensive are the size of a house with their own plunge pool and even a slide into the lagoon. Learn to Surf From one-to-one lessons from onsite resort professionals at Six Senses Laamu or Anantara Dhigu to week long retreats, low season is your chance to learn a new talent or hone your boarding skills when the surf is up. Hanifaru Bay Protected Biosphere July to October is the best time to see hundreds of huge Manta rays, and sometimes whale sharks, at this stunning UNESCO marine site. Monsoon driven plankton are scooped into the bays channel causing a feeding frenzy.

INSIDER TIPS •

In low season when availability is at its maximum, many resorts will offer you a complimentary room upgrade upon arrival. If none is forthcoming just politely ask, they can only say no.

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Resorts situated in the Northern Atolls tend to get less rainfall than resorts in the South, so head a little further away from the airport to get the best of the weather and a more isolated experience.

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The island of Kuda Finolhu is one uninhabited island you can visit on a day excursion. Take a picnic, swim in the crystal clear lagoon of Maadhoo Beach and walk on trails through thick vegetation.

GOOD TO KNOW •

Huvafen Fushi resort is home to the world’s first and only underwater spa. Indulge in luxury treatments in a serene, soothing and surreal world below the surface as shoals of tropical fish go by.

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Try a Maldivian Breakfast. Mas huni is a delicious mix comprising tuna, onion and chilli, all finely chopped and mixed with grated coconut and served with freshly baked roshi flatbread.

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A strong Muslim culture means you’ll need to agree to bring in no idols for worship, bibles or pork products. Outside of the resorts you’ll struggle to buy alcohol and on local islands Friday is a day of rest.

FOOD & DRINK Minus Six Meters M6M Dine in the deep at Atmosphere Ozen’s underwater restaurant. An elegant space with stunning views of the ocean’s tropical marine life, specialising in, you guessed it… seafood. The Crab Shack The latest offering from Soneva Jani, this idyllic outdoor venue at the end of a sandbank serves up just about any tasty connotation of crab, while the upstairs deck is perfect for sunsets. Meeru At Constance Halaveli resort you can enjoy super fresh seafood and steaks cooked on an open grill right beside the sea. Dig your toes into the sand as the sun sets over the Indian Ocean.

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Diving The true wonder of the Maldives lies under the water which sparkles with so many vibrant shades of blue. Here you’ll experience some of the best snorkelling and diving in the world with unbelievable visibility and excellent chances to spot whale sharks, manta rays, sting rays, dolphins, sea turtles and shoals of tropical fish in their thousands. Most resorts offer diving excursions and lessons while enterprising locals have established liveaboard diving experiences which can last a week or more.

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Maldives

56 View of private buildings, Malé, Maldives

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Maldives

Low Season Traveller

Puglia Delivers – Especially in the Shoulder Season

Puglia Delivers

ESPECIALLY IN THE SHOULDER SEASON We were not expecting to spend the first lunch of our holiday in Puglia in London instead - sipping Primitivo in Pizza Express on Chiswick High Road. But our 7.30am flight to Bari was cancelled, just before boarding, due to industrial action in Italy, so we passed back through empty passport e-gates to collect our car from the long stay and returned to West London for pizza instead, with the promise of another flight the following day. The purpose of our trip is to enjoy a few quiet days of sunshine with our son, who is about to embark on GCSEs. We figure the deadline of hotel breakfasts will get him up earlier than usual and he can revise around a light agenda of trips to seaside towns for lunch. We booked a Masseria – a 15th century olive farm on the outskirts of Monopoli – about a 45-minute drive from Bari airport. Our fivenight trip has now become four but the bags are packed and we are determined to make the best of the situation. Our hearts are set on Puglia, so we had accepted the alternative flight times from British Airways, rather than the option of a refund. I was able to message the hotel quickly via the Booking.com app to let them know that we would not be arriving on Monday lunchtime but on Tuesday evening at around 10pm.

Terrace at Masseria Spina, Puglia

Photos: Stephanie Curtis-Raleigh

Our car hire was not as easily solved. This I had also booked through Booking.com and it was a good price – around £75 for 5 days. However, the change in arrival date required the cancellation of the first booking and a new booking to be made. I did this as soon as possible and received a full refund on my first booking but the second one – although shorter – was a tad more expensive due to the fact it was last minute. Communication throughout from Booking.com and Rentalcars was excellent, however. So, a day later, we arrive to darkness at Bari airport and after completing the stressful job of collecting and locating the car and finding our way out of the car hire compound, we endure a hair-raising drive along the autostrada to the hotel. Lighting and road markings come and go and two lanes become one with alarming lack of warning. Suddenly, we arrive at Masseria Spina – incongruously situated in the middle of what appears to be a retail/industrial zone on the outskirts of the seaside town of Monopoli. Once past the majestic pink stone gates, however, we enter another world. Lines of gnarled olive trees march from the sea to a crumbling pink palazzo. Squat white farm buildings, framed by the ubiquitous Puglian cacti surround the courtyards and antique farm equipment is displayed alongside the terracotta pots that used to hold the olive oil.

Low Season Traveller

By: Stephanie Curtis-Raleigh

Puglia Delivers – Especially in the Shoulder Season

The Trulli at Alberobello

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Not that we see any of that as we finally check in (providing all the same information previously provided online). I gratefully purchase one of the many bottles of wine on sale in reception and we are then shown to our accommodation, which is an entire self-contained villa. Outside is a small private courtyard with a fig tree and a little table made from an olive pressing wheel. Inside – the converted farmyard building boasts arched sandstone ceilings, a fully equipped kitchen, living room and diner, a bedroom and en-suite. Upstairs, there is another bedroom and family bathroom and space to sleep several more in a seating/day bed area.

We offer our son the entire upstairs as the bedroom has a desk to study and he is as pleased as punch to have so much privacy (distance from us). My husband and I then take the bottle of wine outside to enjoy the rest of the evening and decompress from the journey, in what is to become our favourite spot beneath the fig tree. Day two is full of discovery and we are grateful for the excellent breakfast which we pre-ordered before arrival. In particular, the thrill of a proper cappuccino drunk in Italy at the right time of day! The hotel is largely empty but the staff we meet are only too pleased to help with advice and a tour of the grounds. We are also grateful for the excellent

wifi and soon our son is hard at work upstairs while I answer emails downstairs at the kitchen table. Later, we explore Monopoli’s attractive old town, which looks out over the port and the tiny beach – the white painted buildings and sandstone churches gleam in the bright sunshine and everywhere are pots of cacti creating a distinctly southern feel. The vibe is chic but the prices are low – especially to us Londoners. Lunch for three of us with drinks comes to around 50 euros. Holidaying in Puglia in low season has its advantages – it’s still warm enough to eat outdoors and restaurants do not need to be booked in advance. We did, however, make one advance reservation at the most Instagram-famous restaurant in all of Puglia (and probably most of Italy) the Grota Palazzese in nearby Poligano a Mare. The town, which is renowned for its cliff diving championships, is home to this incredibly unique restaurant, which sits in a cave overlooking the sea set into a cliff beneath the town. Tables with white cloths are dotted like tiny teeth in the mouth of the grotto while waves crash onto the cliffs and beneath the floor into caverns behind the diners. This is the kind of restaurant that not only requires you to provide your credit card details upon booking, it also sends messages advising

Puglia Delivers – Especially in the Shoulder Season Our truncated trip also includes a visit to the hilltop town of Locorotondo for lunch – 30 minutes’ drive from Monopoli and an hour’s drive from Bari. It is a stunning white town with the most spectacular views down across the valley and its vineyards. Our final lunch is a jolly affair with a comedy waiter and a complimentary limoncello to see us on our way. To be honest, despite losing a day, we feel we had seen just enough of Puglia to tempt us to come back and see more. A trip to the city of Lecce is certainly on my future wish list. Far from feeling shortchanged, we enjoyed our many meals out, the leisurely breakfasts and afternoon naps. The time spent with our son provided us with more conversation in four days than we normally get in a month. Instead of battling with the crowds, visiting earlier in the year has afforded us a dream-like peace and quiet and we leave refreshed and ready to return to London and GCSEs. And – thankfully – our plane leaves on time. We stayed in Masseria Spina in Monopoli from around 100 euros per night per room based on 3 people in a two-bed suite. Booked via booking.com We travelled to Bari with British Airways - £246.28 return from Gatwick

Dinner in Monopoli, Puglia

you on what to wear. “You are going big, so dress the part,” said one email advising that for men, short trousers and sandals would not be acceptable for dinner. The menus vary in price but start at 195 euros per person for a fish or meat-based four-courses. Wine costs from 70 euros a bottle. This is going to be a job for the credit card but promises a major deposit in the memory banks!

We find Puglia to be consistently picture postcard pretty with its conical-roofed trullis – small buildings whose exact purpose seems to be unclear. To see them at their best, a trip to Alberobello is a must – a UNESCO heritage site and dubbed one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Alberobello is rammed with tourists even in April, so I cannot image what it must be like in August but it is very pleasant to wander up the hilly streets to see the hundreds of rooftops with their strange and mystical symbols painted on them.

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In the summer months, a table at the Grota would be very hard to find but in April the restaurant is almost empty. Therefore, we are seated with the most spectacular panoramic view and furnished with blankets as the sea breeze is bracing. A lovely touch is the chauffeur service provided by the restaurant that allows diners to park on the outskirts of town and be whizzed over in style. Every course is served with flourish and the sense of occasion is not lost on any of us as we tuck in with gusto. The food is excellent but we know we are really paying for the view and the chance to giggle at influencers posing for the perfect shot.

Monopoli, Puglia

Featured Destination: Swedish Lapland

Swedish Lapland

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Wild adventures beyond the Arctic Circle

62 Entrance to Icehotel 365

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Featured Destination: Swedish Lapland

Scenic road from Jokkmokk

Low Season Traveller

By: Claire French

Have you ever met one of those people who’s always going on about just how well travelled they are? Well bring them the perfect gift from Sweden’s rural north - reindeer cheese. This traditional tasty treat, also known as renost, is a staple of the Sami, the area’s indigenous people, whose precious reindeer herds have been used efficiently for food, clothing and other resources for centuries. This culturally significant, most northerly part of Sweden, cradled between the arms of Norway and Finland, lies hundreds of miles from the bustling cosmopolitan capital of Stockholm. It’s a land of snow and ice, a rustic idyll of woodlands, beautiful lakes, majestic mountains and tumbling rivers, with the rugged coastline of the Bay of Bothnia framing the south eastern shore. The chance to experience a more

Low Season: April-May, September-November remote way of life might be calling you, but it’s not all hiking boots and wild swimming. The region is also home to a number of sizable towns filled with fascinating museums, colourful markets, top restaurants and of course a plethora of cafes where you can partake in your daily Swedish fika coffee and cake. The busiest times of year for visitors arriving into Swedish Lapland are the summer months for long days under the midnight sun, or the depths of winter for husky sledding and other snowy activities. Low season aficionados however will find the fewest crowds and best prices during spring April to May or autumn September to November. At these times the weather can be unpredictable but never extreme. Like all good low season travellers, you’ll be prepared for seasonal

Featured Destination: Swedish Lapland changes expecting the weather may be sunny, overcast, rainy, snowy, cool or warm. These months offer a unique insight into arctic lifestyle at some of the most beautiful times of year. In the spring snow starts to melt but if you really want to join in snow shoeing, ice fishing and skiing this is still possible with snow falling as late as June in the very north. Elsewhere though, the thaw means easier access to stunning hiking and biking trails, waterfalls are in full flow and rivers and lakes rich in a bounty for anglers. With longer days and clearer routes, road trips around this spectacular area return to the agenda. Come autumn we are back into the season for Northern Lights coverage with the eerie green glow appearing from early September. With no snow on the ground, the region feels darker even than it does during winter making the aurora colours extra vibrant. In addition, the tranquil lakes haven’t yet frozen and so they reflect the night sky, giving the gift of a truly unforgettable evening.

Wellbeing Science has confirmed what intuition has long known. Getting out into nature, unplugging from wi-fi, and a bit of pampering does us the world of good, lowering heart rate, reducing anxiety, and promoting a sense of wellbeing. Forest bathing, the practice of spending time wandering the woods is increasingly popular, with a number of eco-lodges and glamp-sites hosting a perfect escape without compromising on quality. The sauna of course is a way of life with just about every accommodation provider offering this traditional hotspot as standard. Or indulge in a full spa experience with massage treatments and infinity pools looking out over the slopes of endless Lapland vistas. Now that is enough to make even your most well-travelled friends as green with envy as the Northern Lights above you.

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The Beautiful Outdoors Enjoying nature is a way of life for the Swedes. Spring and autumn hiking is popular with locals, whether a romantic stroll with your other half, a fun day out with the family or a longer trek over a week or more. The areas around Arjeplog, Jokkmokk and Årrenjarka are especially

good choices. Fat biking is increasingly popular with tyres to suit all seasons. Snowsports at Riksgränsën, the legendary ski resort 200km within the Arctic Circle, remain accessible until June and sees skiers descend pistes that cross the Swedish/Norwegian border under the midnight sun. Kayak the still waters of magnificent lakes and dine on the trout, salmon or grayling caught locally that very same day.

65 Riksgransen, Sweden

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Swedish Lapland

66 Kungsleden, Sweden

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Swedish Lapland

Low Season Traveller

Abisko National Park, Sweden

TOP EXPERIENCES

FOOD AND DRINK

Take a Train from Kiruna to Luleå From the northern town of Kiruna, head south by rail. The route to the wonderful city of Luleå takes around four hours and passes through breath-taking natural views. Stop at picturesque Jokkmokk, the heart of Sami Lapland, on the way.

Hemmagastronomi, Luleå Top end white guide restaurant with a beautiful interior and plenty of outdoor seating with stunning views over Luleå harbour. Seasonal ingredients combine to produce delicious local dishes including seafood and reindeer specialties.

Wildlife Photography Tour Snap your best ever pic with experts in nature photography. Low season is a great time for wildlife spotting with chances to see moose, reindeer and elk as well as families of brown bear, foxes, wolverine and the magnificent golden eagle.

Tage at Hotel Kust, Piteå Restaurant Tage is known as one of Sweden’s best eateries. Located on the 13th floor of this beautifully designed top hotel, it enjoys stunning views of the sea and Norrbotten region. Take an aperitif in the bar one floor up.

Hike the Kungsleden Trail At 270 miles, it’s Sweden’s longest route, taking in four national parks, incredible waterfalls, valleys and views of towering mountains. It takes 12 days to complete, but with multiple entry points, you can choose a preferred short section.

Local Breweries If Eurovision did beer, the results table would show Sweden coming a firm second only to Belgium. So take in some favourite Lapland brewing sites for tours and tastings. Try Piteå Bryggeri or This Is How homed in an old bus garage. Skål!

Featured Destination: Swedish Lapland GOOD TO KNOW

INSIDER TIPS •

Give yourself permission to be lazy and acknowledge the joy of being alive. Sometimes you just need to take the time to gaze at the night stars in a wilderness far from anywhere. Or stare into the flames of fire whether camping outdoors or safe in a cosy bolthole.

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Swedish Lapland businesses are small and focus on quality rather than quantity. Peak season cabins, guides and sami experiences are booked out way in advance. In low season it’s much easier to meet people and have the experiences you want in a more relaxed way. Low season is the perfect time for a fly-drive in a hybrid car around the Skellefteå region in the south of Swedish Lapland. Please be careful when driving though. 20% of road accidents are caused by elks, which weigh up to a ton and are 2 metres tall.

Try Västerbotten, a hard cow’s cheese, a bit like parmesan, and served with pickled herring and bread. It was apparently invented by accident when a milkmaid in the northern village of Burträsk let the cheese spoil when she was…er…distracted by the milkman.

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The renowned IceHotel 365 near Kiruna, as the name suggests, is open year round offering exciting ice experiences even in summer. It houses deluxe art suites, an ice bar and an ice art gallery with different facilities opening during different seasons.

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Meet Sami families, try local foods and learn about this fascinating indigenous people with their own language, culture and customs. Laponia was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1996 to protect its unique nature and cultural values, one of the best-preserved nomadic areas in Northern Scandinavia.

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69 Arjeplog, Sweden

Low Season Traveller

FEATURED PHOTO

Featured Photo

Photo: Ana Lyubich If you love getting up close and personal with wildlife and dislike the traditional zoo experience, then Orana Wildlife Park in Christchurch, New Zealand, is for you. Visiting during the low season, you might find yourself as the only visitor on this vast 80-acre sanctuary. Home to over 1,000 animals representing more than 90 different species, Orana Wildlife Park offers a peaceful and immersive experience. Instead of overcrowded enclosures, you can enjoy strolling through eucalyptus forests, breathing in their unforgettable aroma. Do you have a photo that you think captures the essence of low season travel? Email editor@lowseasontraveller.com for an opportunity to feature in a future edition.

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Featured Photo

Featured Destination: Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai

Low Season Traveller

Spiritual centre, gentle pace of life and surprising adventures

72 Sunrise over Doi Ang Khang, Chiang Mai

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Chiang Mai

Aerial view of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

By: Claire French

Low Season Traveller

Hailed by Low Season Traveller as the Thailand the travel world fell in love with 40 years ago, the north is adored for its friendly locals, mouth-watering food, and stunning mountain scenery. At the midst of it all sits the charming city of Chiang Mai, home of a hundred wats and lifeblood of this wonderful part of the world. Founded in 1296, the old centre retains ancient walls, moats, stupas and countless remnants of its days as the Lanna capital. Explore the magnificent temples of Wat Prathat Doi Suthep and Wat Chedi Luang before seeking out more of what makes this place like it is, truly feeling a million miles away from bustling Bangkok and the crowded islands of the south.

Although the steamy March to May period can be unbearably hot (and often accompanied by the eye stinging smoke from the burning fields of farmers), we very much recommend venturing here in the low season from June to October. This is when the rains bring welcome relief from the heat, jungles are lush and verdant, but visitor numbers remain low and you’ll get great deals on accommodation and touring experiences. Trekking Don a poncho and get into the mountains where everything is wonderfully green, the rice terraces look stunning, and rivers and waterfalls are in full flow. An afternoon downpour creates lovely fresh conditions while cloud cover takes the edge off the blazing sun. Ducking into a hillside retreat for a mug of mountain coffee while a

Low Season: May-October storm passes makes for one of the most memorable experiences of your entire trip. It’s possible to take trails to the villages of other ethnic groups such as the Karen, Hmong, Lawa, Lisu tribes. If you choose to do this, do your research and always travel responsibly. There are many treks close to the city but if you’re able to drive out, visit beautiful Doi Inthanon National Park, home of Thailand highest peak, or Chiang Dao with its caves, hot springs and bamboo forests. Markets for fun and for food There’s practically a market on every street corner, but hit the Friday morning market from 6am and witness Chiang Mai coming to life. This age-old institution in Chang Moi district is where farmers gather to sell their produce. Local fruit and veg is piled high and you can’t get a better wake-up call than the heavenly scents of fresh lemongrass, coriander and galangal in the morning. Trinkets, jewellery, textiles and crafts are on sale too. Not far away the nightly bazaar, a huge affair, gets going about 5pm and continues until late. Saturday and Sunday night markets operate separately all offering a fun experience with stall after stall filled with souvenirs and culinary delights. Steaming pans of Pad Thai and fried chicken on sticks await you, or try the slightly less appetising 100 year old egg or the array of delicious edible bugs – crickets, beetles and mealworms. Yum. If you really want to avoid tourists, head to Malin Market near the university where young artists hawk their work and prices are not inflated either. Wachirathan Waterfall, Chiang Mai (right)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Chiang Mai

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Chiang Mai

76 Rice terraces at Pa Bong Piang, Chiang Mai

Featured Destination: Chiang Mai TOP EXPERIENCES Tuk Tuk Adventure Choose a self-driven guided option and head off in convoy into the Thai countryside for an experience you’ll never forget. 3, 5 or 11 day itineraries are available. Cooking class Learn the skills to make delicious Thai dishes at home. Classes include a trip to the market, fresh organic ingredients, recipes to take away and a mouth-watering lunch. Monk Chat Several temples take part in this program allowing visitors a fascinating cultural exchange and a chance for monks to practise English. Try Wat Chedi Luang or Doi Suthep.

FOOD & DRINK Fern Resort Sunset Bar Superb year round and surrounded by rice field and forests, it’s perfectly placed for a cold beer as the sun goes down between the gap in the mountains. Maetha Chang Kang Tong Super laid back bar and restaurant a half hour from Chiang Mai Popular with students, bikers and artists. No menus but there may be spontaneous music. Hop-pi-polla Hipster roadside BBQ hangout with incredible food. Outside of the city but worth the effort. Be sure to order the set menu and don’t forget to book ahead.

INSIDER TIPS •

In the low wet season, rain often arrives in the mid to late afternoon, so get up super early, trek and plan to be under shelter with a cold Chang beer before the heavens open.

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Even the busiest sites are much quieter and more enjoyable in low season. Visit Wat Doi Suthep around sunrise for the full majesty of the complex and enjoy stunning city views.

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The best cooking classes are fully booked, so find your favourite and reserve your place in advance to avoid disappointment.

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Bring a swimsuit. You won’t be sunning yourself on the beach, but you’ll want to keep it handy for wild swimming in pools and waterfalls on your mountain trek.

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Don’t leave without trying a Thai massage. Although there are many cheaper, we suggest the lovely Fah Lanna Spa. It has three venues and often offers discounts in the low season.

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Shoppers and photographers will love Bor Sang Market, the Umbrella Village. It’s outside the centre, but is worth the trip for its array of colours and a different souvenir.

Low Season Traveller

GOOD TO KNOW

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Chiang Mai

78 Doi Inthanon National Park, Chiang Mai

Low Season Traveller

With greater water clarity in the winter months, abundant marine life and migrating whales stopping by, diving in the world renowned Poor Knights Marine Reserve off the coast of Tütükäkä Northland or into the sparkling waters of the Bay of Islands is the best way to experience our marine wonderland. Poor Knights Marine Reserve, Northland New Zealand

NORTHLANDNZ.COM/VISIT

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Northland is a region surrounded by coast and our subtropic climate means the water can be enjoyed year-round, just add a wetsuit, and dive in!

Low Season Traveller

Cultural Heritage Icons

When it comes to cultural heritage wonders, some iconic sites like the Great Wall of China or the Taj Mahal often steal the spotlight. However, our world is filled with hidden gems that showcase the rich tapestry of human history and cultural diversity. In a regular feature in collaboration with our partners at The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage, we embark on a journey to discover five lesser-known cultural heritage wonders which you may not be aware of. These extraordinary sites offer unique insights into ancient civilizations, artistry, and remarkable human achievements.

SALINAS GRANDES SALT FLATS, JUJUY PROVINCE, ARGENTINA

HAKONE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM, HAKONE, JAPAN Nestled amidst the scenic mountains near Mount Fuji, the Hakone Open-Air Museum offers a unique experience. Here you can stroll through a sculpture garden, not confined by walls, but embraced by the beauty of nature. Over 700 sculptures by iconic artists like Picasso, Rodin, and Henry Moore create a captivating blend of art and nature. Immerse yourself in this innovative concept, where renowned artworks seamlessly integrate with the surrounding landscape.

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Step into a surreal wonderland at the Salinas Grandes Salt Flats. Imagine yourself wandering through the vast, seemingly endless expanse of white salt stretching for miles. The brilliant sunlight reflects off the surface, creating a mesmerising landscape. Marvel at distorted reflections in water pools or take a unique train ride across this otherworldly terrain, experiencing the awe-inspiring scale of this natural wonder.

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Low Season Cultural Heritage Traveller Icons

Cultural Heritage Icons THE HANGING COFFINS OF SAGADA, PHILIPPINES

THE CALLANISH STANDING STONES, ISLE OF LEWIS, SCOTLAND Journey to the mystical Isle of Lewis in Scotland and stand amongst the ancient Callanish Standing Stones. Dating back 5,000 years, these megaliths are even older than Stonehenge! Their purpose remains a mystery, but their imposing presence and the surrounding rugged landscape create an atmosphere of awe and intrigue. Imagine the lives of the people who erected these massive stones and ponder the significance they held in their culture.

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Prepare to be awestruck by the captivating – and slightly spooky – Hanging Coffins of Sagada. The Igorot people, known for their unique traditions, practised a remarkable burial custom. Centuries ago, they entombed their deceased high on cliffs in intricately carved wooden coffins. These weathered coffins, some dating back hundreds of years, offer a glimpse into a fascinating, age-old practice and provide a window into the Igorot people’s beliefs about the afterlife.

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Cultural Heritage Icons

CAPE FLORAL REGION PROTECTED AREAS, WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA Escape the ordinary and delve into a botanical wonderland. The Cape Floral Region is one of the world’s six floral kingdoms, boasting an incredible diversity of plant life. Over 7,000 plant species thrive here, found nowhere else on Earth. Hike, bike, or simply stroll amidst the stunning floral displays. With its vibrant fynbos vegetation and unique ecosystems, the Cape Floral Region is a paradise for nature lovers and a testament to the incredible biodiversity of our planet.

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Climate Friendly Accommodation

Climate Friendly

Accomodation

In collaboration with our friends at the Climate Friendly Travel Club, we highlight some of the most sustainable and climate friendly travel options for a variety of destinations around the world. This month we feature Cambodia, Switzerland, Zanzibar, Nepal, Costa Rica and Kenya.

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Climate Friendly Accommodation

Low Season Traveller

Climate Friendly Accommodation

Climate Friendly Accommodation CERVO Mountain Resort, Switzerland (Left) Breathe in fresh Alpine air at CERVO Mountain Resort, a haven of sustainable luxury in Switzerland. This eco-conscious retreat nestles amidst breath-taking scenery, utilising geothermal energy to power its chic chalets and gourmet experiences. Hike pristine trails, unwind in the natural pool, and reconnect with nature – all while knowing your stay treads lightly on the earth. www.cervo.swiss/en

Emboo Lodge, Kenya (Above) Embark on a sustainable safari adventure at Emboo Lodge, set amidst Kenya’s untamed beauty. This eco-lodge prioritises conservation, using solar energy to power its luxurious tents and minimising its environmental footprint. Explore the savanna on guided EV tours, unwind in the infinity pool, and immerse yourself in nature – all while contributing to responsible tourism. www.emboo.camp Upendo Beach Hotel, Zanzibar (Above) Unveiled on Zanzibar’s idyllic shores, Upendo Beach Boutique Hotel whispers barefoot luxury with a conscience. This intimate retreat champions sustainability, with private villas designed to blend seamlessly with the environment. Dive into crystal-clear waters, savour fresh, local cuisine, and unwind by the infinity pool – all while Upendo prioritises conservation and empowers the community. Find your perfect balance between indulgence and responsibility at Upendo Beach. www.upendozanzibar.com/upendobeach

Jaya House River Park, Cambodia (Above) Immerse yourself in Cambodian luxury with a conscience at Jaya House. This serene retreat, nestled amidst rice paddies, champions sustainability. Locally-sourced materials adorn its elegant rooms, while responsible practices minimise environmental impact. Explore ancient temples, unwind by the infinity pool, and savour delectable cuisine – all while Jaya House empowers the community and preserves the region’s natural beauty. www.jayahouseriverparksiemreap.com

Nestled amidst Nepal’s majestic Himalayas, The Pavilions Himalayas offers a luxurious escape with an eco-conscious soul. This boutique resort, set on a working organic farm, sources fresh ingredients for its delectable meals. Breathe in fresh mountain air, unwind in a serene infinity pool, and soak in breath-taking views – all while knowing your stay supports sustainable practices and empowers the local community. www.pavilionshotels.com/himalayas

Visit our partners at The Climate Friendly Travel Club for a comprehensive selection of the most sustainable properties around the world and learn more about how your travel can make a positive difference. www.climatefriendlytravelclub.com

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Pavilions Hotel, Nepal (Above)

Climate Friendly Accommodation Tabacón Resort, Costa Rica

Bathe in luxury amidst Costa Rica’s rainforests at Tabacón Resort, a haven of sustainable indulgence. Geothermal energy fuels this eco-paradise, powering its natural hot springs, luxurious villas, and delectable restaurants. Unwind in steaming pools, savour locally-sourced cuisine, and reconnect with nature – all while minimising your environmental impact. Discover a new standard in sustainable luxury at Tabacón Resort.

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www.tabacon.com

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Climate Friendly Accommodation

Low 5Season Top Podcasts Traveller

Top Podcasts

Low Season Traveller Insider Guides provide low season travel insights into what tourism destinations offer during their low seasons and also identify when is the best time to experience their destination.

Season Traveller LowLow Season Traveller

Here, we’ve picked out five of our favourite podcasts.

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ANDERMATT - COME FOR THE ADVENTURE, STAY FOR THE SERENITY Huddled in the Swiss Alps, this town of only 1,200 people allows low season travellers to escape the busy life and take a breath of fresh air. There are over 850km of walking trails stemming out from Andermatt, from easy day hikes to tougher overnight hikes for the more adventurous – but yes, all hikes have inclines! In this podcast, Kate is joined by Lars Werner from the Raddison Blu Hotel in Andermatt as they discuss the wonders this famous ski town has to offer when there is no snow on the ground.

LOW SEASON LOCAL’S GUIDE TO VIETNAM Discover the hidden gems of Vietnam with exclusive insights from Chum Pham, the sales and partnerships manager of ITS Vietnam. From the tranquil beauty of Hanoi to the vibrant culture of Saigon, explore the diverse landscapes, people, and cuisine of this captivating country. Uncover the secrets of low season travel and immerse yourself in the authentic experiences that make Vietnam a must-visit destination. Join us on a journey through the sights, sounds, and flavours of Vietnam on this special episode of the Low Season Traveller Insider Guides podcast.

Low Season Traveller

Top 5 Podcasts

FAIRER TOURISM IN UGANDA

Low Season Traveller

In this episode of the Low Season Traveller Insider Guides Podcast, we’re talking about equitable and responsible tourism. James Nadiope is the founder and CEO of The Justice Tourism Foundation in Uganda and their vision is of a world where tourism brings greater benefits for local communities which in turn can participate in terms of job creation, poverty reduction and environmental management.

LOW SEASON MALDIVES In this podcast, Kate Burgess chats with Naya Ahmed about everyone’s dream destination – The Maldives. The Maldives is known for its picturesque beaches, crystal clear waters, and 5* resorts but it offers so much more. The Maldives is rich in traditions and tourists can visit local villages and islands to explore this abundance of culture. But of course, Naya gives us great insights into the enviable snorkelling and diving, the local foods, and the best way to travel around the islands. Naya offers her top tips when travelling to the Maldives to make sure you respect all traditions and cultures when on the local islands and beaches.

ELEPHANTS OF THE MYANMAR BORDER The Mahouts Elephant Foundation is a unique organisation in Thailand working to re-wild captive elephants and allow them to return to the cloud forest along the northern Myanmar border. It is only possible with the support of the elephant owners and mahouts who in the past have had little choice but to sell elephants into the tourist trade. Tourism is still vital to the success of this project, and by visiting the village as a guest of the Karan tribes who live there you both help to sustain a way of life and liberate elephants who have lived captive lives, in some cases for decades. Sarah is the woman behind the idea, and she invited Nikki to experience it for herself as part of her Low Season Adventure.

Low Season Traveller

Top 5 Podcasts

LOW SEASON TRAVEL MAKES YOU FEEL FREE

Low Season Traveller - Issue 8

Articles inside

SEPARATING SUSTAINABILITY FROM SCAMS

Pura Vida in Costa Rica