Low Season Traveller - Issue 9 by Low Season Traveller

TRAVELLER LOW S E A SON

Issue 9 October-December 2024

lowseasontraveller.com

TORONTO

FEATURED DESTINATIONS:

Shine bright in the big city by the lake.

TREKKING ALONG THE SNOWLINE Hiking the Tian Shan mountain range in Kyrgyzstan.

THINKING SMALL IN CROATIA Walking the groves of a Dalmatian olive oil farm.

San Francisco, USA Zona Cafetera, Colombia Toronto, Canada Austria Whitby, UK Zambia AND MUCH MORE...

AUTUMN COLOURS AND WINTER WHITE Low season adventures in Anchorage, Alaska.

Low Season Traveller

Balancing Tourism Seasonality

Low Season Traveller

08 OCTOBER 2024 AT ROUTES WORLD, BAHRAIN

WWW.SEASONALITYSUMMIT.COM

Low Season Traveller

Low Traveller TeamSeason and Contributors

Contributors Publishing Team

Ged Brown

Publisher and CEO at Low Season Traveller Ged is the founder and CEO of Low Season Traveller; the world’s first organisation completely dedicated to the promotion of travel during the off-peak seasons in each destination as a way to alleviate the growing problem of over-tourism. A passionate advocate of the advantages of tourism, Ged has spent his entire career working with leading travel and tourism organisations.

Ryan Maley

Editor, Low Season Traveller Ryan is our Content Development and Community Manager, as well as Editor of the Low Season Traveller Magazine. Ryan has worked in the travel industry for almost a decade, developing content and campaigns in his home city of Manchester, UK. He is passionate about sustainable travel, and believes that travel should be accessible to all, as it truly makes for a more well-rounded and culturally intelligent society.

Chris Flynn Chris is a member of the LST Advisory Board and is also the Founder & Executive Chairman of The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage. With more than 30 years’ experience in international tourism, Chris is a regular speaker at high profile international events and provides insights to leading news media channels such as BBC World News Asia Business Report.

Tony Hallwood

An award-winning writer who explored seven continents, dove many seas, and wrote for airline, Time-Life, and National Geographic media. Her books include “My Adventures” and “The Great Outdoors” for Quarto Publishers. Wrote for Oscar-winning and Emmy-winning projects. Co-founderCharityChecks.org; member of Space.com’s launch team and The Explorers Club.

Tony’s career has covered senior director roles for major travel companies including SAGA, Cosmos, Airtours and My Travel. Tony’s strengths are building strong partnerships with airlines, tour operators and national tourism partners alongside maximising his extensive PR and media experience to promote a wide range of new destinations, routes and services.

Fiona Greenhalgh

Chris McNicholl

With a wealth of experience in the global travel industry over the last 24 years (If Only, Carrier, Shearings & Airtours), Fiona believes it’s time for her to give something back to the industry she has been privileged to be a part of. She is a strong believer in responsible tourism and sustainable travel.

Chris is a designer with over 20 years experience in the design industry. Working with some of the biggest brands on the planet in top studios and publications in London. Chris has travelled extensively and worked with Low Season Travellor from the the very start. Now based in New Zealand where he runs www.overflowcreative.co.nz

Commercial Director

Low Season Traveller

Claire has crossed the globe, living and working on 6 continents. She’s now working on Low Season Traveller feature pieces and dreaming of her next adventure from her narrow boat home on a quiet stretch of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, where it seems to be permanently low season.

Lisa TE Sonne Editor-at-Large

Claire French

Business Development Director

Art Director

Advertising? Get in touch with fiona@lowseasontraveller.com or tony@lowseasontraveller.com

Low and Season Traveller Team Contributors

The Puglia Guys

Olly Beckett

The Puglia Guys are Puglia and spaghetti all’assassina ambassadors. They have written the definitive online guide to Puglia at PugliaGuys.com and contributed to Puglia guides for BBC tv and Rough Guides. Find them on Instagram: @pugliaguys X (formerlyTwitter): @pugliaguys and on Facebook: PugliaGuides

20 years in travel marketing, journeys through 90 countries and all seven continents, and years spent living and working abroad led Olly to finally realising his dream of becoming a travel writer, which he combines with his interest in hiking, history, architecture and making the planet a little bit better.

Howard Cheng

Bella Falk

Howard is a UK-based freelance photographer. As a regular traveller, he enjoys the art of visual storytelling, using photography to capture and share the historical and cultural contexts of his destinations. Connect with Howard on Instagram and X (formerly Twitter) at @WhereHowardGoes for more stories from around the world.

Bella Falk is a travel writer, photographer and documentary director from London. She writes the travel blog Passport & Pixels and has won or been a finalist for more than 20 industry awards including winning Blogger of the Year at the British Guild of Travel Writers’ Awards 2023 and Best Photography at the Travel Media Awards 2020. Her words and images have been published by National Geographic Traveller, Wanderlust, BBC Travel and Lonely Planet among others.

Julia Hammond

Lisa Maloney

Julia Hammond is a UK-based travel writer who’s a passionate geographer and an enthusiastic advocate for independent, budget travel. She first set foot on the South American continent in 1992 and has been back many times since. When she’s not on the road, home is by the Essex salt marshes.

Lisa Maloney has lived in Alaska for 35 years. She got her start as a newspaper columnist and reporter, going on to write three awardwinning guidebooks and edit for Alaska Magazine. You’ll find her work in National Geographic, Condé Nast Traveler, the New Zealand Herald, and many more.

Agnes Groonwald

Drew Barnes

Agnes Groonwald is a freelance writer and blogger who comes to travel writing after careers in journalism and education. Originally from Chicago, she’s currently based in a suburb of Paris seemingly untouched by high-season tourism. She loves finding the human and humorous stories behind destinations. Follow her adventures at www.travelonthereg.com.

Drew Barnes is a 31-year-old Manchester born photographer specialising in landscape, lifestyle, automotive and portrait photography. He has worked with many global brands and tourism boards around the world and has been fortunate enough to see some of the most beautiful places on the planet. He has an approach to taking photos that forces him to be slower and really take in his surroundings in the hope to tell stories through his art.

Published by: Low Season Traveller Ltd. Milnrow, Greater Manchester, United Kingdom

Low Season Traveller is published by Low Season Traveller Ltd. Kind of obvious but our lawyers insisted we put this in. The entire contents are protected by copyright 2024 and all rights are reserved. This means you can’t copy or reproduce any of the content like the stunning photographs or amazing low season focused articles which are in this or any issue without prior permission. That said, we’re reasonable people who love travel and are keen to support others who are similar to us - Just ask us first and if we like the cut of your jib, we may well allow it. Our team take a huge amount of care when compiling the contents of each issue of our magazine, but sadly as publishers, we can’t assume any responsibility in any effect arising thereof. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. We recommend a good local travel agent or similar. Finally, Low Season Traveller Ltd does not accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used, or claims made by our wonderful advertisers. That’s it. Now that wasn’t too bad was it… Copyright © Low Season Traveller Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

Low Season Traveller

Guest Contributors

Low Season Traveller

Northland is bursting with rich indigenous Mäori cultural and European heritage.

Low Season Traveller

As the place where both the Polynesian and European peoples first arrived to Aotearoa New Zealand, and connections were forged, there are stories to be discovered at every turn. When you visit in our low season, you get to meet locals who have the time to share our unique stories and manaakitanga (hospitality). Form a deep connection with Northland and discover what makes New Zealand the nation it is today from the place where it all began.

Ceremonial war canoe (waka) at Waitangi Treaty Grounds, Bay of Islands, Northland New Zealand

NORTHLANDNZ.COM/VISIT

Low Season Traveller

COUPLES

FAMILIES

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SEA BREEZE, BARBADOS UP TO 50% OFF Prices from £1,750pp, All Inclusive

JAMAICA INN, JAMAICA UP TO 15% OFF Prices from £2,160pp, B&B

BLUE WATERS, ANTIGUA UP TO 25% OFF Prices from £1,960pp, B&B

CAP MAISON, ST LUCIA UP TO 25% OFF Prices from £2,190pp, Half Board

THE LANDINGS, ST LUCIA UP TO 25% OFF Prices from £1,790pp, B&B

Prices based on October/November 2024 departures for 7 nights with Economy flights & transfers. Subject to availability.

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01732 810372

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Low Season Traveller

LAST MINUTE CARIBBEAN HOLIDAYS

Contents

Contents 42

04 Contributors

54 Meet the Low Season Travellers: Bella Falk Award-winning travel writer, photographer and

08 Contents

documentary director.

60 Featured Destination: Austria

10 Editor’s Note 12

Imperial grandeur, Alpine hikes, villages and wine.

alancing Tourism with Conservation B in East Africa Ged’s Update.

16 Featured Destination: San Francisco

Vibrancy, history, culture, cuisine, and hills... a whole lot of hills.

24 Trekking Along the Snowline 28 Featured Destination: Zona Cafetera, Colombia

70 Italy’s Brilliant Bari

Home to Santa Claus and a killer spaghetti.

74 Featured Destination: Whitby, UK 82 Thinking Small in Croatia

Walking the groves of a Dalmatian olive oil farm.

Embracing the harvest in Colombia’s coffee triangle.

34 Welcome the Spirit of Samhain in Derry Ireland’s largest celebration of the spooky season.

86 Featured Destination: Zambia

Authentic unspoiled wilderness in Africa’s best kept secret.

92 Cultural Heritage

In collaboration with The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage.

36 Low Season Adventures in Anchorage, Alaska

98 Low Season Dream Stays

Autumn colours and winter white.

Low Season Traveller

The Wanaka Tree by Drew Barnes.

Spooky nights and seaside delights in this coastal Gothic town.

Hiking the Tian Shan mountain range in Kyrgyzstan.

68 Featured Photograph

42 Featured Destination: Toronto Shine bright in the big city by the lake.

Bucket-list accommodation for low season travels.

104 Capturing Tanzania’s Culture

A Tanzanian artist is bringing his culture to life with a Bic biro.

48 Chasing the Aurora

A guide to the Northern Lights, and how to capture them.

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Low Season Traveller

Contents

Low Season Traveller

Editor’s Note

Hello, and welcome to the ninth edition of the Low Season Traveller Magazine.

Also in this edition, we take a look at shoulder seasons in San Francisco, and unique experiences only available in Toronto’s low season. October and November mark the harvest season for Colombian coffee farmers, and we’ve shared how you can enjoy an authentic visit to the country’s Zona Cafetera. In Zambia, low season trips offer excellent bird-watching and calving opportunities, whilst in Austria, the period between the peak sun and winter snow seasons is perfect for enjoying breathtaking nature. Contributors in this edition take us on a journey from hiking Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan mountain range and picking olives in a Dalmation grove, to autumn and winter adventures in Anchorage, Alaska, and the signature dishes of Bari, capital of Italy’s southern Puglia region. Howard Cheng shares why 2024 is offering the best opportunities for aurora viewing, as well as his recommendations for

capturing the best photos of the phenomena. I also chat to awardwinning travel writer, photographer, and documentary director Bella Falk about her early love for travel, surprising low season experiences, and her advice for starting out in the travel industry. As always, we’ve partnered with the World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage to discover some lesser-known cultural heritage wonders, and we’ve also shared some of our favourite accommodation providers offering authentic and eco-friendly stays. We also learn the inspiration behind the fantastic art of George Machumu, who is capturing the culture of Tanzania using just a Bic biro. I’d love to hear from our readers with any feedback, ideas for future editions of the magazine, or personal experiences of the wonders of low season travel. Until next time,

Ryan Maley Editor ryan@lowseasontraveller.com

Low Season Traveller

October is a great start to low season winter trips across Europe. The autumn months offer fewer crowds and the weather remains warm along the mediterranean, whilst the northerly and mountainous regions are gearing up for the snow season. One of my personal favourite trips at this time of year is Whitby. We’ve visited this quintessentially English town as a family every year since I was a child, and it’s one of my favourite times of the year. Later in this edition I share my favourite low season tips for this Gothic seaside town.

Low Season Traveller

Ged’s Update

BALANCING TOURISM WITH CONSERVATION IN EAST AFRICA An update from Ged.

At the time of writing, the great wildebeest migration in East Africa is in full swing. At this time of year (roughly June through October), herds of these magnificent creatures bound towards the Mara River that flows from the Maasai Mara into the Northern Serengeti in search of more fertile lands to graze upon risking life and death in the process. In recent years, there is a second equally significant migration that occurs at the same time and place which equally evokes thoughts of life and death in a far less majestic way. Vast swathes of diesel powered vehicles motor across the captivating savannah carrying thousands of tourists eager to see for themselves the stunning images and drama so beautifully portrayed in wildlife documentaries. And they are paying huge sums for the privilege. This past week I was in touch with some of our correspondents on the ground in East Africa and what they shared with me was deeply disturbing. Photos and videos of a lion with its kill surrounded by a hungry pack of approximately 50 diesel chugging vehicles some of which were at the most 4 metres from the animals. Most vehicles engines were growling as they jostled with each other for a better view. I was left thinking ‘is this the future of tourism?’

The answer, much like the hues of the African landscape itself, is not a simple black and white. Tourism undeniably plays a crucial role in protecting these areas. Park fees fund vital anti-poaching efforts and habitat restoration. Lodges and qualified guides can (Left) The Mara’s great migration.

The lion’s expression says it all…

be powerful advocates for conservation, educating visitors and fostering a sense of wonder for the natural world. However, there’s a tipping point. Our East African contacts paint a concerning picture. The sheer number of vehicles crowding popular destinations like the Maasai Mara, Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater disrupts wildlife behaviour, while poorly regulated development threatens critical habitats. Studies even suggest a decline in wildlife populations in some areas.

Low Season Traveller

East Africa’s national parks have long been a safari dream, a chance to witness the awe-inspiring wildebeest migration or gaze out at a pride of lions lazing in the golden savannah. However, the recent surge in tourism threatens to turn this dream into a nightmare, for both wildlife and responsible travellers. This surge raises a critical question: can we reconcile the economic benefits of tourism with the vital need to conserve these irreplaceable ecosystems?

Ged’s Update known parks teeming with wildlife but without the crowds. Educate Yourself, Empower Others Responsible tourism starts with informed choices. Research tour operators and agents that are committed to sustainable practices. Look for certifications like those offered by Ecotourism Kenya. Be curious, ask questions about their environmental impact and their support for local communities. Beyond the Tourist Dollar While responsible tourism brings economic benefits, direct support for conservation efforts can make a real difference. Consider donating to reputable wildlife organizations working in the region. Conservation tourism is on the incline, this is where travellers are putting their support into projects that they can be directly involved with at the grassroots level, making it so much more meaningful.

Credit: Nicky Souness

The blame isn’t solely on tourists. Unscrupulous tour operators prioritizing profit over conservation and a lack of government oversight exacerbate the problem. One of our contacts argues there’s “no such thing as non-consumptive tourism.” Every tourist leaves a footprint, from water usage to carbon emissions. So, what is the responsible traveller to do? Here’s where the concept of ‘low season travel’ becomes particularly relevant. The Allure of the Low Season Peak season brings crowds, pushing the very things we cherish about these destinations to the brink. But what if there was another way? Enter the often-overlooked shoulder seasons and even the low season itself. Wildlife is still abundant, the landscapes are less crowded, and the experience can be far more intimate. Avoiding the Circus: Alternatives Await Sure, the migration might be a draw, but there’s so much more to discover in East Africa. Consider the private conservancies bordering the national parks. Often managed with stricter ecological principles, they offer exceptional wildlife viewing with qualified guides and fewer vehicles. Alternatively, explore lesser-

Photographer unknown

A Future Where Conservation and Tourism Thrive There’s no easy solution, but there is hope. One of our contacts highlights the potential for improved collaboration. Governments, park authorities, and the tourism industry must work together to implement stricter regulations, promote responsible tourism practices, and ensure park fees are reinvested into conservation. The passionate voices in our correspondent’s message remind us that this is not just about protecting wildlife, but about the future of responsible tourism itself. Let’s ensure that future generations can experience the magic of these wilderness areas and not a shadow of their former glory. Travel low season, choose wisely, and be an advocate for change. Together, we can ensure that Africa’s incredible wildlife and tourism not only survive but thrive.

Low Season Traveller

If you are seeking genuiniely responsible operators for your low season African safari, you may wish to try:

Safarious - Warren Pearson warren@safarious.com - www.safarious.com Anderson Expeditions - Richard Anderson richard@andersonexpeditions.com - www.andersonexpeditions.com Cape to Nile Global Safaris - Caitlin Carter caitlin@capetonile.com - www.capetonile.com Photographer unknown Photographer unknown (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Ged’s Update

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: San Francisco

16 16 The Golden Gate Bridge seen at sunrise from Fort Point

Featured Destination: San Francisco

San Francisco

Low Season Traveller

Vibrancy, history, culture, cuisine, and hills... a whole lot of hills.

Featured Destination: San Francisco

San Francisco’s traditional cable cars

Low Season Traveller

By: Claire French

If there is one time to avoid the city on the Bay it is the summer. Not only are attractions swamped by vacationing American families, the weather can be plagued by wind and fog. As Mark Twain so infamously acclaimed, the coldest winter he ever spent was a summer in San Francisco. Instead opt for the shoulder seasons of April to May or September to November when conditions are fine, skies are (for the most part) clear and crowds are few. Or, for the really low season, try January to March. Temperatures are cooler and there is a good chance of rainfall, but you’ll have many sites to yourself, prices will be the lowest you’ll find all year, and when the sun does come out, the views are simply glorious.

Low Season: October-February Contrasting Districts You might be forgiven for thinking this is one city with a personality crisis. Each neighbourhood is so utterly distinct from the last that you can practically enjoy a different holiday each day. Fisherman’s Wharf is a great place to start. See (and hear) the sealions at Pier 39 and stop by the Ferry Building, not only an architectural wonder, but a fabulous place to buy local artisanal delicacies. Take a boat out to Alcatraz, the legendary ‘Rock’, which once held notorious criminals such as Al Capone. Head to North Beach, SF’s Little Italy, home to Joe DiMaggio and the Beat Generation of the 1950s. Here you can visit Telegraph Hill and climb the 64 metre Coit Tower,

Featured Destination: San Francisco emblem of the city’s skyline since 1933. Visit the thriving brewery scene in SoMa, south of Market Street, and check out Castro, the famously gay district with its rainbow crosswalk and iconic camera shop of gay rights’ campaigner Harvey Milk. Don’t miss bustling Union Square, the cultural Civic Centre of the green oasis of Golden Gate Park which houses the California Academy of Sciences, the de Young Fine Arts Museum, and the Japanese Tea Garden where cherry blossoms bloom each spring.

TOP EXPERIENCES Alcatraz Take a ferry to the Rock but beware that tickets sell out weeks in advance. You can enjoy a night tour, behind the scenes tour, or fabulous combo with Angel Island, a hidden gem among the bay’s beauty. Cross the Golden Gate Bridge Iconic from afar, you can’t beat crossing on foot. Allow a couple of hours for the round trip, and stop for the stunning views. Continue on the north side to the beautiful Marin Headland vistapoint. Chinatown One of the nation’s oldest Chinese communities, it covers 24 blocks. Come for the atmospheric red lanterns, the architecture of Dragon Gate, the herb and tea shops and tuck into some deliciously authentic Chinese food.

Low Season Traveller

Getting Around Conveniently stuffed into its own seven mile wide peninsula, San Francisco enjoys a compact layout that is really easy to get around without a car, and there are lots of different ways to do just that. One of the best ways is to walk or hire a bicycle. Not only will you see loads while getting your bearings, you’ll work off all those extra large portions of cioppino and fish tacos while you’re at it. The only drawback is the hills. Towering, terrifying and downright very steep hills. Maybe then consider the public transport options. Buses and trams under the Muni system are very regular and travel across the Bay area. Likewise the BART subway is popular and very efficient. You can pay for an individual ticket when you hop on or obtain a Clipper Card which work out cheaper per ride. Then of course there are the iconic cable cars. Pricey but lots of fun, it just has to be done!

It’s the world’s last manually operated cable car system, running since 1873 after being saved from extinction by campaigners, and aren’t we glad it was!

Colourful houses in San Francisco

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: San Francisco

20 Lombard Street at sunrise

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: San Francisco

Dungeness crab served on cook pan

FOOD AND DRINK Boudin Bakery at Fisherman’s Wharf Our top pick for Clam Chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. Boudin’s bread is what makes this dish truly magnificent, soaking up the chowder while you dine before you eat the deliciously gooey bowl itself. Perry’s, Union Street Going strong since 1969, this great classic American bistro is always busy with locals and international visitors alike, serving fabulous burgers, prime steaks, and delicious salads. It is the place to brunch at weekends. Dungeness Crab Locally caught November to June this regional speciality is served up as whole or half potions with a mountain of sides. Or choose Dungeness crabcakes or the mouth-watering Italian-American cioppino fish stew with its medley of seafood.

INSIDER TIPS •

Food lovers can follow in the footsteps of British presenter Liam Mayclem who showcases the Bay’s restaurants and wineries.

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Fort Baker, a former Naval Base turned hotel and spa, is where the locals go for uninterrupted views of the Golden Gate Bridge with food and drinks served on an outdoor patio.

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Seek out the secret decorated stairways such as the Hidden Garden Steps project, a community based public art project to create mosaic steps, a garden and a wall mural on 16th Avenue.

Low Season Traveller

GOOD TO KNOW

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Events can be fab opportunities but beware prices can skyrocket. Examples are the Opera in Sharon Meadow in September and Fleetweek and the Bluegrass Hellman Hollow, both in October.

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Download the Nextbus or Routesy apps. Although MUNI buses turn up eventually, they rarely run to schedule and these apps offer realtime info. Routesy works for CalTrain and BART too.

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Irish coffee was imported by Stanton Delaplane who perfected the floating cream at Hyde Street’s Buena Vista Bar, after passing out on the cable car tracks from too many failed attempts. Alcatraz Island, San Francisco (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: San Francisco

Trekking Along the Snowline

TREKKING ALONG THE SNOWLINE Hiking the Tian Shan mountain range in Kyrgyzstan By: Olly Beckett Garlanded in thick, unblemished snow, the mountains to my right lead to China and those on my left to Kazakhstan. Any temptation to hike to those countries is dispelled by peaks soaring over 7000 metres high, and harrowing tales of Victorian explorers vainly trying to seek shortcuts to Tibet. Nevertheless, Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan range is a land of adventure and I’m here to find my own version of it. The months pass peacefully in low season and that snowy garland is still draped deep down the slopes. I’m staying in the remote village of Jyrgalan where my accommodation – Peak Lodge – hasn’t had guests since some intrepid heli skiers passed by many weeks ago. It’s deserving of much more attention: modern Scandinavian in style with individual lodges clad in blonde wood, and floor-to-ceiling windows framing mountain views.

Low Season Traveller

Looking at hiking app Wikiloc I’m excited to see many possibilities (in 2016 US Aid funded the mapping of trails throughout the area). It’s been a long day of travel from the capital – Bishkek – starting with a 6-hour “marshrutka” (public minibus) to Karakol followed by a 45-minute ride in a VW Jetta taxi that’s notched up over 300,000km. But it was an efficient journey and so I’ve arrived in Jyrgalan earlier than expected. With plenty of daylight to spare I set off in search of a particularly large rock.

The road that runs from our lodge and through the village is a mix of gravel, mud, and manure from the cows that commute along here morning and evening. A farmer just past the last house is the first and last person I’ll see along today’s trail, which rises steeply beyond a meltwater-swollen river. Vast grassy plains are soaked by recently thawed snow. I’d like to say that the air was filled with silence, but several small coal mining operations provide a constant hum and occasional crunch. They want to build a ski resort here. Earlier this year a French company announced the €146 million investment, attracted, no doubt, by conditions which will guarantee snow for many years to come. I wonder if they’re aware that a Chinese company also plans to move in and expand the mines?

Issyk-Kul mountain lake, surrounded by the Ala-Too mountains

I’m in no doubt that I’ve reached my destination when I see Tulpas Tash rock rising 8 metres above the ground. It’s so prominent that it features in a famous 18th-century Kyrgyz poem. It’s also a perfect turn-around point. My map shows that the trail continues up the valley, if I follow it I’ll soon be deep in snow. Which is exactly where I find myself the next day. Luckily someone had walked this way before me and so I literally follow their footsteps to Kok-Bel waterfall. Finding a patch of snow solid enough to hold my weight I admire the partially frozen falls, tumbling from 20 metres above. This was a four-hour trek and today I saw just one pair of hikers. Back to Karakol, which, with 84,000 people, is eastern Kyrgyzstan’s main population centre. In warmer months hikers flock here for the Karakol sign with 3040m marker (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Trekking Along the Snowline

Kyrgyzstan’s capital Bishek, with mountains in the background

Ala Kul Lake trek, staying overnight in yurts. Thanks to yesterday’s adventures I now know that the snowline is currently at around 2,500 metres, making Ala Kul – at 3,500m - inaccessible. Instead I set off in search of Zhashyl Kol Lake, a couple of hundred metres lower.

Low Season Traveller

At the beginning of the trail, which starts in a shallow canyon, two teenaged boys watch their cattle herd from horseback. They look doubtful when I mention where I’m going. It’s a hot, sunny day and up ahead peaks of over 5,000 metres tempt me onwards.

The snowline appears much sooner than expected. This is because I hadn’t factored on the path taking a north-facing approach, the snow therefore lying in shade for most of the day. I try wading through it for a few minutes but, when it reaches my waist, I decide to turn around. After a thorough consultation of my map app I seek another route, one which will return me to the city via what should be a snow-free route. From a 2,800-metre peak (which seems small amidst the craggy giants all around) I admire the view up to the mountains and down to Issyk Kul, the world’s second-largest mountain lake after Titicaca. Today has been a success after all (let’s ignore the part where I slid down the hill three times, covering myself in mud and then dropping my phone in the stream I used to wash myself). Seven hours along a trail that would rival some of the best I’ve been on in the Alps, Andes,

Himalayas and Rockies, yet, apart from those teenaged riders, not a soul to be seen. Ala-Archa National Park, my third and final hiking area in Kyrgyzstan, is under an hour’s drive from my downtown Bishkek hotel. Lucky Bishkek for having such a convenient mountain wonderland. I’m aiming for Ak-Sai waterfall, located at 2,800 metres above sea level. This time the trail’s well-trodden and its aspect faces favourably. I happily hike the snow-free route to the falls, which are disappointingly small and so I carry on up, turning around only when the trail becomes too precipitous for my liking. I’ve reached a point where I can look across to glaciers and serrated ridges and I’m very happy with today’s efforts. When I began the walk the only signs of life were some playful marmots. On the return journey ever more people appear, an indication not of peak season – which is still at least a couple of months away – but of the park’s convenience to the city. There’s a lack of public transport here but not, thankfully, a lack of Kyrgyz hospitality. It takes less than a minute of trying for me to hitch a lift back to Bishkek. Towards the end of low season Kyrgyzstan bathes in 15 hours of daylight. You’ll therefore have plenty of time, and plenty of trails, to enjoy your own adventures in the Tian Shan mountains.

Ala-Kul Lake in Karakol National Park (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Trekking Along the Snowline

Featured Destination: Zona Cafetera, Colombia

Zona Cafetera

Colombia

Low Season Traveller

Embracing the harvest in Colombia’s Coffee Triangle

28 Cocora Valley with wax palms and vegetation

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Zona Cafetera, Colombia

Colombian farmer harvesting robusta and arabica coffee berries

Low Season Traveller

By: Julia Hammond

Prepare to wrinkle your nose: staying on a coffee hacienda in Colombia’s Zona Cafetera is a multi-sensory experience. During the harvest in October and November, a sour vinegary smell pervades the air as the hard shells of freshly-picked coffee cherries break down as they are piled high and left to ferment. Far nicer on the nostrils is the aroma of roasted beans which wafts from farmhouses and covered verandas, intensified by the damp air that persists throughout the rainy season. As you sip the rich, smooth liquid it slips sweetly over your tongue, awakening your taste buds. Forget the fancy syrups and barista art of city cafés: out here in the countryside the coffee is pure and unadulterated, free of the frothed milk and sugar that mask its

Low Season: May-July, October-November natural flavour. Mug in hand, pick your way along narrow paths separating the densely-planted coffee bushes, skirting small puddles as the cool air brushes against your cheeks. Watch as the calloused, mud-caked fingers of teams of pickers expertly seek out only the crimson cherries, leaving those that aren’t quite ripe enough. Back in the farmyard, listen to the tumble of the yellowy-green beans being washed and graded along outdoor chutes and the scrape of the metal rake on the hard floors of greenhouses as they’re spread out to dry. Loading the heavy hessian sacks onto the flat-bed truck is the hardest job of all. A soundtrack of grunts and gasps coupled with frequent pauses to wipe sweaty brows is a telltale sign that this is tough, physical work.

Featured Destination: Zona Cafetera, Colombia

Willys jeep in the Cocora Valley

The Zona Cafetera is largely rural, but a number of hubs act as jumping off points for those heading for the haciendas tucked away in verdant valleys. To cut down on overland travel, it’s possible to fly to Armenia or Pereira in the south of the region, though some of the farms in the north are little more than a morning’s drive from Medellin. Quaint Salento, Jardin and Filandia make convenient bases for those who prefer to stay in town. This is a part of Colombia that embraces low season travellers. It welcomes those who brave a trip in October and November when rain typically falls for at least half the month and low cloud shrouds the mountains, tucking them out of sight for days on end. Temperatures, though, hold up; it’s not unusual for thermometers to record daytime highs of 25°C, while nights stay well above freezing. Yet though sun seekers stay away, the area is at its most lush and green; this is the time of year you’ll find peace and quiet without the need to stray too far off the beaten track. Charming Towns Painted in Vibrant Shades Most Zona Cafetera tourists find themselves in Salento at some point. In its colonial core, buildings are painted in an array of bold colours; shades of Barbie pink, dandelion yellow, turquoise blue and emerald green adorn every inch of its doors and windows, forming a striking contrast against whitewashed walls. A steady stream of tourists trudges up a steep flight of steps at the end of the main street but the effort is worth it for the panoramic views over the

town and the mountains beyond. Down below, in the main square, farmers in wide-brimmed hats take advantage of dry spells to chew the fat. Knives holstered in polished leather sleeves, they perch on the back of pick-up trucks to chat or drink beer at the convivial tables of the town’s pavement cafés. Street dogs slink around nearby. They sniff for scraps and then wriggle on their backs in the dirt. Ride in a Willys Jeep A jaunt in a Willys jeep is almost a rite of passage in these parts. These rustic vehicles found their way here at the end of World War Two, when they were offloaded in significant numbers by the US military. Capable of carrying heavy loads though manoeuvrable on dirt tracks, they were ideally suited to the bumpy mountain roads of the Zona Cafetera. Today, some are workhorses, piled high with sacks of coffee beans, while others shuttle back and forth from the plaza to tourist spots fully laden with people. During the rainy season, drivers hurriedly unfurl covers to shield these open-tipped vehicles during downpours, though fat drops puddle on bench seats and collect in metal footwells. A UNESCO-Worthy Landscape Camera-toting outsiders flock to the Zona Cafetera’s Valle de Cocora, a remarkably beautiful part of the Los Nevados National Natural Park. Most hike along a scenic loop trail which leads first to stands of lanky wax palms. Then, it climbs steadily into the cloud forest, forcing walkers to tramp over rickety suspension bridges above streams as they continue to the summit. In wet weather, the sticky mud cakes boots and trouser hems but when the mist lifts, the views across the valley from these higher elevations are breathtaking. Adventurous travellers can venture further into the park to get a close-up look at its snow-capped volcanoes, while the area’s many hot springs and geothermal baths are the ideal place to rest weary bones.

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A Region Realising its Tourism Potential Until relatively recently, the best beans from Colombia’s Arabica coffee crop were exported abroad, but things are changing. In cities such as Bogotá and Medellin, artisan roasteries and cafés have sprung up in upscale neighbourhoods, catering to a mixed clientele of locals and tourists. Visitors are increasingly venturing into the countryside that nestles between the two, known as the Zona Cafetera. They’re keen to explore a bucolic region which in 2011 was formally recognised as the Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia by UNESCO.

Featured Destination: Zona Cafetera, Colombia INSIDER TIPS

TOP EXPERIENCES Stay on a Coffee Farm Many coffee haciendas offer a programme of activities, but stay at more than one as they vary considerably. The no-frills La Gaviota near Chinchiná is a working farm where you’re invited to help out with the harvest. Alternatively, watch hummingbirds sip nectar from the balcony hammock of the century-old farmhouse at stylish Hacienda Venecia near Manizales. Hiking Through the Valle de Cocora The wax palms you find in the Valle de Cocora are the tallest palms in the world and Colombia’s national tree. Rising on spindly trunks from rippled, grassy slopes, they form the backdrop to one of the region’s most beautiful hikes. In low season the trees become photogenic silhouettes against a backdrop of low cloud, so dress accordingly if you want to stay dry.

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Seek out a popular tejo hall – such as Cancha de Tejo Los Amigos in downtown Salento – and participate in this loud, crazy game. Players throw weighted discs (tejos) and try to hit a central metal ring (a bocín), around which are secondary targets (mecha) packed with gunpowder. Much beer is consumed, but it’s a lot of fun and safer than it sounds.

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The area is volcanic so there are plenty of hot springs and geothermal baths. Try the Termales El Otoño near the city of Manizales or further south, the San Vicente Thermal Reserve on the outskirts of Santa Rosa de Cabal. Some places offer overnight accommodation; their baths tend to be quieter early in the morning or during the week.

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The Zona Cafetera is more or less equidistant from the Colombian capital Bogotá and its second largest city, Medellin. Both have plenty of attractions that will appeal to international tourists so consider an “open jaw” flight, arriving at one and departing from the other to bookend your time in the coffeegrowing areas.

Ride in a Willys Jeep The Willys jeep is a Colombian icon and you’ll see them throughout the coffee-growing region. From Salento’s main square, they depart regularly for Cocora and also the nearby town of Filandia. Try to catch the Yipao Parade which takes place in Armenia in early October, when fully-loaded jeeps perform crazy stunts to the delight of an enthusiastic crowd.

Traditional Colombian Bandeja Paisa dish

GOOD TO KNOW •

Low season is also rainy season and rural roads can occasionally be impacted by landslides. If it’s been especially wet in the run up to your trip, it’s vital to stay abreast of weather conditions and heed local advice. You can easily switch up your longdistance bus for a domestic flight to either Armenia or Pereira if necessary.

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The dish Bandeja Paisa is a hearty staple that you’ll find at restaurants throughout the Zona Cafetera. This platter comprises rice, beans, fried pork, ground beef, chorizo, plantains, fried egg, avocado and arepas (cakes made from ground corn). Rich in protein, carbohydrates and fat, it’s exceptionally filling – be sure to start with an empty stomach.

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If you’re a Disney fan, this part of Colombia will already feel familiar. Its colourful balconied architecture and verdant valleys replete with wax palms were the charming inspiration for the aptly-named movie Encanto.

FOOD AND DRINK

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Café Jesus Martin, Salento This chic café close to Salento’s lively central plaza is a must for morning coffee or afternoon cake. Step in off the steep street and let its highly-trained baristas craft you a speciality coffee using Arabica beans roasted in-house. On your way out, buy a bag at the battered wooden counter to grind at home.

Helena Adentro, Filandia Filandia’s trendiest restaurant is as far removed as you get from bland and boring. Colourful, eclectic décor sets the vibe and the view out over the countryside from the terrace is a real treat. Even so, it’s the food you’ll remember: the creative kitchen team transform fresh produce sourced from nearby farmers into inventive dishes firmly rooted in the local area. Bernabé Café & Bistro, Salento This long-established family-owned restaurant occupies a prime spot on Salento’s lively main street. During low season it’s easier to get a table in its pretty plant-filled courtyard. If you’ve been inspired to learn more about the food they prepare, Bernabé’s owners also offer cooking lessons.

Colourful facades of houses in Salento View of a coffee plantation near Manizales, Colombia (Right)

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Featured Destination: Zona Cafetera, Colombia

Low Season Traveller

Welcome the Spirit of Samhain in Derry

34 Halloween celebrations in Derry

Welcome the Spirit of Samhain in Derry

Since its debut in the early 1990s, Derry Halloween has blossomed into Ireland’s largest and most spectacular celebration of the spooky season, drawing tens of thousands of visitors to the city each year.

a dazzling fireworks display over the River Foyle. Over 600 performers from community groups, sports clubs, and local schools will join the traditional parade, making it a true cross-community celebration.

Known affectionately as the Home of Halloween, Derry honours the ancient Celtic traditions of Samhain, transforming the city into a contemporary carnival of the macabre. For four nights, the city becomes a mesmerising stage showcasing unique folklore, history, and heritage.

With a growing international audience, Derry Halloween attracts over 100,000 people over four days, playing a vital role in the local tourism industry. For more information and to plan your visit, head to derryhalloween.com.

In 2024, festivities will be centred in Derry’s city centre and along its historic city walls. From October 28-30, as darkness falls, the city will come alive with spirits and spectres during the Awakening the Walled City events. Then, on Halloween night itself, ethereal beings and grotesque ghouls will bring magic and mischief to life. Expect spellbinding fire performances, breathtaking aerial feats, luminous projections, and even a zombie circus.

On Halloween night, enjoy a thrilling spectacle of illuminations, aerial performances, pyrotechnics, and music, culminating in

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The Derry Halloween program offers an array of events for all ages. From ghoulish ghost tours, spooky storytelling sessions, and eerie arts and crafts to spine-tingling haunted houses, you can fully immerse yourself in the spirit of Samhain. Wander along the Awakening the Walled City Trail to meet the myriad of weird and wonderful characters that breathe life into Halloween, including the notorious skeleton Walter DeBurgh. Halloween celebrations in Derry

Low Season Adventures in Anchorage, Alaska

and winter white

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Low season adventures in Anchorage, Alaska

36 Road towards Anchorage, Alaska in autumn

Low Season Traveller

Low Season Adventures in Anchorage, Alaska

Autumn scenery on the train from Talkeetna to Denali, Alaska

By: Lisa Maloney

Low Season Traveller

If you’ve ever seen tourist brochures for Alaska, they probably showed you summer: salmon flinging themselves upstream into a bear’s waiting jaws, glaciers sparkling under the midnight sun, and maybe a shot of the state railroad’s distinctive blue-and-yellow liveried trains, all with a backdrop of craggy mountains and lush, Jurassic Park-level greenery.

But there’s so much more the brochures don’t show, like the way crisp autumn air turns your breath into faint wisps of vapour, or the way tundra plants turn bright orange and red in late September, covering the mountains in tiny displays of brilliant fall colours, punctuated by occasional stands of bright yellow aspen trees. From most parts of the city, all you have to do is lift your head to see those mountains that cluster on the southern and eastern horizons. It’s only a matter of time before the crisp white of fresh snow starts creeping down the mountainsides, seemingly tiptoeing a little farther downslope every night.

Lights in the Sky Even in the 300,000-person ‘big city’ of Anchorage, Alaska is incredibly seasonal. So when you visit in the fall, you’re joining us at a time of flux, when moose congregate for their fall breeding season, the rut, and plump, glossy-furred bears browse on berries in the mountains and the forests, packing on more precious fat to see them through their long winter slumber. Meanwhile, as our night skies shed the midnight sun of summer and slide back into darkness, the aurora borealis or northern lights becomes visible again. There are a few conditions, though: if you want to see the aurora you need clear skies, plus some distance from city light pollution, and of course the lights need to be shining in the moment those other ingredients come together. You can lose a lot of sleep waiting up to see if the aurora comes out, but aurora-forecasting apps and social media groups (especially on Facebook) make it easier than ever to scout the situation from

Low Season Adventures in Anchorage, Alaska If you’re up for about four hours of driving (round-trip), you can even enjoy a guided winter trek on a glacier, or join Salmonberry Tours for a winter sled dog adventure. Last but absolutely not least, don’t forget the Alaska Railroad. Only a couple of passenger routes run during the winter, but if you happen to be here on the first Thursday of the month, you can jump aboard the Hurricane Turn train. This unusual flag stop train runs into the wilderness north of the quirky little town of Talkeetna, where offgrid homesteaders can quite literally flag the train down and hop on to catch a lift to town, then catch a lift back out to the homestead on the next trip. The train conductors are famous for their relaxed, affable nature, often stopping the train or even backing it up to ensure you get the best wildlife sightings and photo opportunities. I’d say that illustrates the general attitude of most Alaskans, too. We are famously casual here — you’ll almost never find a dress code in town, especially during the winter — and also famously friendly. While you’re guaranteed to have the adventure of a lifetime on a lowseason visit to Alaska, if you take the time to share a drink with locals or say hi to people you meet on the trail, you might just end up with a few new friends for life, too.

Moose in winter in the Chugach Mountains near Anchorage, Alaska

your warm and cosy bed. If you have a rental car, you can reach two popular aurora-viewing spots — Earthquake Park and the Glen Alps trailhead — pretty easily, or roam even farther afield if you dare. Living the Wild Life Speaking of seeing things, September and October are great months for observing moose, the majestic (and some would say gangly) giant deer that are ridiculously common in the Anchorage area. Like all wild animals, they come and go whenever, and wherever, they like: you might see one striding right down the middle of the road or sidewalk, or go weeks without seeing any. To maximize your chances of a sighting, check out 1,500-acre Kincaid Park, on the west side of town, or the massive valley just east of the Glen Alps trailhead, set up in the foothills east of Anchorage. Moose also pop up with some frequency in Anchorage’s green spaces, of which we have many; there are more than 250 miles of trails that link together our greenbelts and parks. If I had to choose only one trail to explore, I’d rent a bike in downtown Anchorage and pedal the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail, which runs 11 miles along the coast to its end in Kincaid Park. A Winter Wonderland In Kincaid, once the snow sets in — which is notoriously hard to predict, but usually happens by December — this park becomes home to many miles of groomed, world-class cross-country ski trails. It’s easy to rent gear from local outfitters and hit the trails, as long as you have a vehicle, or a nice Uber/Lyft/taxi budget, to get you there.

All of these adventures keep you fairly close to town — but Anchorage really shines as a hub for day trips to outlying communities. You can hop on a small plane from Regal Air and fly around Denali, North America’s highest peak; or drive south to Seward, where Seward Ocean Excursions offers small-boat sightseeing and wildlife-viewing day cruises that run all year long.

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If you’re more of a downhiller, there are two community-centered ski hills nearby, and a full-fledged ski resort just a 45-minute drive to the south. Alyeska Resort has the longest double black-diamond run in North America, and a mountaintop restaurant that offers views of seven different hanging glaciers.

Hubbard Glacier in Alaska

Low season adventures in Anchorage, Alaska Although this isn’t a comprehensive list, the following companies offer some of the best shoulder-season and winter tours, accommodations, and gear rentals:

TOUR OPERATORS Salmon Berry Travel & Tours (+1-866-681-0209; salmonberrytours.com) offers day trips and overnight tours for everything from sightseeing, dog sledding and wildlife watching to chasing the northern lights. Seward Ocean Excursions (+1-907-599-0499; sewardoceanexcursions.com) offers year-round wildlife-watching day cruises. The Alaska Railroad (+1-800-544-0552; alaskarailroad.com) trains are a beloved institution for locals and travelers alike, providing a mix of tour and transportation all in one. Regal Air (+1-907-243-8535; regal-air.com) offers flightseeing excursions around Denali, the highest peak in North America, as well as fly-along trips to “chase” mushers along the course of the Iditarod, a sled dog race that runs about 1,000 miles across the state.

DOWNHILL SKIING Alyeska Resort (+1-907-754-2111; alyeskaresort.com) has the longest double black-diamond run in North America, and one of the nicest Nordic-style spas you’ll find in Alaska. Hilltop Ski Area (1+907-346-1446; hilltopskiarea.org) is a small ski hill that sits inside Anchorage city limits. Ski rentals and lessons are available. Arctic Valley Ski Area (1+907-301-1031; arcticvalley.org) this nonprofit ski hill has only limited hours, usually on the weekends, but a great community vibe.

CROSS-COUNTRY SKI RENTALS All of these companies will rent you cross-country ski gear, and some rent alpine gear. You can also rent downhill ski gear from any of the ski hills mentioned above. The Hoarding Marmot (+1-907-865-7929; hoardingmarmot.com) is a local shop for new and carefully used outdoor gear. They rent gear for all types of skiing, paddlesports, camping, and more. Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking or AMH (+1-907-272-1811; alaskamountaineering.com) This local ski/climbing shop rents everything you need for a wide range of outdoor activities, including skiing, paddling and camping. REI or Recreational Equipment Incorporated (+1-907-272-4565; rei.com) This national chain rents a wide variety of outdoor gear, including cross-country skis and camping gear.

BIKE RENTALS

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Both of these bicycle shops are located in downtown Anchorage, conveniently near the start of the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail. During the winter they rent fat-tire bikes that make it easier to ride on snow; e-bikes are available.

Pablo’s Bike Rentals (+1-907-277-2453; pablobicyclerentals.com) Alaska Bike Rentals (+1-907-279-3334; alaska-bike-rentals.com)

OTHER GEAR RENTALS K&R Rentals (+1-907-444-6615; facebook.com/KRrental) is a wonderfully community-oriented year-round outfitter. If the other shops can’t provide what you’re looking for, they might be able to help you out. Skyline view of Anchorage, Alaska (Right)

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Low season adventures in Anchorage, Alaska

Featured Destination: Toronto

Toronto

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Shine bright in the big city by the lake

42 Toronto skyline at dusk

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Featured Destination: Toronto

Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Low Season Traveller

By: Claire French

“Toronto is a kind of New York operated by the Swiss”. Got to love these words from wise and well-travelled Peter Ustinov. Sir Peter perfectly sums up the atmosphere of Canada’s biggest city, cool tech hub, cradle for start-ups, and 230 nationality strong multicultural mosaic. It’s a coming together of unique neighbourhoods that reflect the city’s diversity with their distinctive traits and community feel. An instantly recognisable skyline dominated by the iconic CN Tower, rises from the edge of beautiful Lake Ontario, forming a facade for a city that is larger than you think. Connected by a user-friendly network of subways, streetcars and underground walkways, Toronto stretches for miles offering year-round world class theatre, beloved sports events, and an award-winning culinary scene.

Low Season: November-March Toronto’s climate is very much influenced by its lakeside location. Proximity to the vast body of water ensures Toronto is one of Canada’s cooler cities in summer and warmer in winter. Summers buzz with festivals like Toronto PRIDE drawing crowds fit to bursting. Don’t dismiss low season though, from November to March, when Torontonians reclaim their city and peak prices drop. Although temperatures at this time may fall below zero, you can expect many days to be gorgeously clear and crisp. Renowned cultural attractions thrive, availability at top restaurants opens up, and day trips to nearby Niagara Falls remain on offer. Plus, there are some wonderfully unique low season events like the historic Royal Agricultural Winter Fair; the Winterlicious set menu fine dining extravaganza; and of course all the festive lights and decorations.

Featured Destination: Toronto One thing we love about low season Toronto is how locals still embrace the al fresco feel with outdoor bars setting up for winter with marquees and patio heaters. So you can still wander Downtown, around Harbourfront, bohemian Kensington, or LGBTQ friendly Church & Wellesley for an afternoon craft brewery beer or creamy hot chocolate before catching a Toronto Maple Leafs ice hockey match. Get in The Holiday Spirit Low season travellers can join in an infectious excitement in the run up to Christmas. From the end of November to the first week of January, incredible light installations adorn Nathan Phillips Square in the city’s downtown. The stunning Cavalcade of Lights has been an annual event since 1967. Now it’s a month-long exhibit starting with the ceremonial lighting of the Christmas Tree. Right next door, the Holiday Fair in the Square packs in a festive artisan market, and skating at the fun-filled rink to the sounds of Christmas music. Don’t miss the chance to snap your photo in front of the famed Toronto sign under a flurry of snow. The whole city is abuzz with Christmas cheer and jingle bells. Venture to the Distillery Winter Village for an immersive festive experience, witness the original Toronto Santa Claus Parade, a tradition since 1905, special festive culinary dishes, and spectacular new year’s fireworks.

Toronto skyline, Ontario, Canada

Wrap Up and Be Winter Active Toronto boasts hundreds of parks and stunning outdoor spaces that remain open year-round. Low season is the perfect opportunity to try skating, snowshoeing and winter hiking with the locals. A favourite spot is Rouge Park, Canada’s first urban national park. Or tackle the 19-mile Martin Goodman Trail or the 5-mile Humber Bay Shore Trail which remain cleared and maintained by authorities throughout winter. The Evergreen Brick Works is a site of heritage industrial buildings transformed into an award-winning public space combining nature, history and art. Here you can try fat-biking, with large tyres ideal for low season, and guided cycles Tuesdays and Sundays. Rouge National Urban Park, Toronto

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Escape into Magical Museums Warm up in some of Toronto’s brilliant indoor cultural venues, ranked amongst the world’s best and reflecting the city’s great pride in its history, diversity and progression. The Royal Ontario Museum houses 13 million pieces of art but is perhaps best known for its Gallery of Dinosaurs, majestic domed ceiling and controversial juxtaposing glass extension. Fill your boots at the fascinating Bata Shoe Museum, visit Toronto’s Gothic style castle Casa Loma, or see the architecturally renowned Art Gallery of Ontario partially designed by Frank Gehry. Hockey fans absolutely need to see the Stanley Cup at the interactive Hockey Hall of Fame. Use a Toronto CityPASS to skip the line and get a great price for five top attractions, including the CN Tower, the new Ripley’s Aquarium and the Ontario Science Centre.

Featured Destination: Toronto

Food stand in Kensington Market

TOP EXPERIENCES Distillery Winter Village From mid-November the historic district transforms into a holiday wonderland as the city counts down to Christmas. Wander the cobblestoned streets of old Victorian industrial buildings, filled with twinkling lights and the sound of carollers. And it’s free to enter Monday to Thursday. Niagara Falls in Winter Niagara is only 90 minutes from Toronto with transfers for frost fans year-round. Although rare for the falls to completely freeze, it’s amazing to venture behind sheets of ice for a totally different perspective. Plus the falls are illuminated with a light festival and fireworks until late February. Ice Skate with Torontonians Apart from the festive Nathan Phillips rink, there are some amazing outdoor skate spaces like Harbourfront and Ramsden Park. The new Bentway Skate Trail running under the Gardiner Expressway offers free lessons while Colonel Samuel Smith rink is set in a stunning 195-acre park.

FOOD AND DRINK

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360 Restaurant Located inside the CN Tower, 360 Restaurant allows you to enjoy exquisite fine dining 351 metres (1151 feet) above the ground. The restaurant completes one rotation every 72 minutes giving an ever changing city view while you dine and also homes the world’s highest wine cellar.

St. Lawrence Market The renowned indoor emporium dates from 1803 and has been named one of the best food markets in the world by National Geographic. 120 specialty vendors known for the variety and freshness of their cheese, pastries, chocolates, seafood, and made to order peameal bacon sarnies. Neighbourhood Diners Experience authentic international cuisine at really great prices in Greektown, Little India, Little Italy, Chinatown, Koreatown, or Little Tibet. Toronto is constantly expanding with over 150 vibrant neighbourhoods, each proudly bringing their own flavours and cultures to the table.

INSIDER TIPS •

The Ice Wine Festival at Niagara-on-the-Lake takes place each January in the heritage district. The extravaganza showcases the unusual but delicious beverage, made from grapes frozen on the vine. With music, culinary pairings, spectacular ice sculptures and tours of snow covered vines.

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We love the Kensington Market district for its Bohemian chic, independent shops and vintage finds. It’s our top spot in Toronto for just wandering, cool bars, fab food like that found at the Pow Wow Cafe, and street art. Check out the flamboyant Winter Solstice lantern and fire parade on December 21st.

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Craft breweries offer a rainbow of beers from pale gold to deep browns. The Amsterdam Brewery opened the first example in 1986, and now there are more than 70 city wide. Try Steam Whistle Brewery housed in an old locomotive facility, Leftfield with its baseball theme, or live music at Burdock.

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GOOD TO KNOW •

Locals use the PATH to stay dry on rainy or snowy days. It’s Toronto’s revolutionary underground pedestrian walkway network that spans 20 miles including 4 major subway stations, shops, restaurants and entertainment. Combine with a TTC Presto Day pass for public transport travel.

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Toronto can be pricey with 13% sales tax plus tips expected. Save cash by eating at the neighbourhood delis, or taking yourself on a walking tour. Download self guided directions for graffiti or architectural tours or the distillery district, and look out for a random Banksy or Henry Moore en route.

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The Toronto Islands are so popular in summer, but it’s little known that you can go in winter as well. Only the ferry to Ward’s Island operates, servicing the island’s 600 residents. A fascinating place, but worth the 10 minute trip for that magnificent view over the lagoon to the Toronto skyline alone.

Toronto sign in Nathan Phillips Square, Toronto (Right)

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Featured Destination: Toronto

Chasing the Aurora

Low Season Traveller

A guide to the Northern Lights, and how to capture them

48 The Drangurinn Rock and the Eyjafjöll Mountains, Iceland. ISO 3200, 5 seconds, 28mm f1.7.

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Chasing the Aurora

A panoramic view of the city of Tromsø, Norway. ISO 400, 5 seconds, 28mm f2.8.

By: Howard Cheng

Low Season Traveller

The aurora, named after the Roman goddess of the dawn, has captivated humankind’s imagination for generations since time immemorial. Across different cultures, storytellers of old sought to explain the aurora’s manifestation with tales of Arctic foxes running in the sky, souls of the dead playing with the skull of a walrus, or even celestial battles between dragons. Others saw the aurora as vengeful spirits or a bad omen foretelling war, disease, and famine. It would take humanity until the 1960s to discover the scientific cause of the aurora.

As part of normal solar activity, the solar wind carries charged particles from the Sun’s atmosphere into space. Events such as solar flares or coronal mass ejections increase the amount of charged particles carried by the solar wind. When these particles reach Earth, our magnetic field directs them towards the north and south poles, where they collide with gas molecules in our atmosphere, releasing energy in the form of light. As areas around the Arctic are more accessible than areas around Antarctica, the northern aurora, aurora borealis (‘borealis’ derives from Boreas, the Greek god of the north wind), is talked about more often than the southern aurora, or aurora australis (‘australis’ is Latin for ‘southern’). The concentration of the aurora around the poles and the need for dark skies to fully appreciate the cosmic phenomenon make aurora viewing an ideal low season travel activity during the autumn to spring months. As solar activity peaks and troughs in cycles of roughly 11 years, we currently find ourselves at the peak of the current cycle. This makes the next couple of years some of the best opportunities to try and see the aurora before solar activity wanes.

Photos by: Howard Cheng What might you see if you were looking for the aurora? As you gaze upwards on a clear night when the terrestrial and cosmic weather conditions align, you might notice ethereal veils of light dancing across the diamond-studded dark of the night sky. These ethereal veils might reveal a hint of green, especially during strong displays. I still remember the excitement of my first aurora sighting. Seeing a whitish-grey mist move in the night sky, I initially mistook it for fast moving clouds. Uncertainty gave way to excitement as pointing my camera at the ‘mist’ revealed a bright green trail splitting apart the dark of night as if some otherworldly manifestation was making its way to earth through a tear in the fabric of space above us. Photographs of the aurora often show the phenomenon in its most dramatic form, with vibrant bright green streaks painted across the night sky, because the sensors of digital cameras are more sensitive to light than our eyes, and so they can better capture fainter light than we can see. While seeing the aurora perform its dance in the night sky is no less captivating than the dramatic emerald streaks seen in photographs of the aurora, there is a certain sense of satisfaction when you are able to provide photographic evidence to your friends and social media following of having witnessed the aurora. Alongside the photos accompanying this piece, I have set out the exposure settings which I used, along with some of my personal tips for shooting the aurora below. There is no need to follow these ideas or the settings I used slavishly - think of them as a starting point from which you can conduct your own photographic experiment as to what might work for you in terms of your own photographic style.

Chasing the Aurora Equipment essentials To capture the aurora effectively, you will need a few key pieces of gear: Camera: A DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual settings is ideal. Full-frame cameras offer an advantage in low-light conditions, but modern crop sensor models can also produce excellent results especially if sharing on social media rather than making large prints. Wide-angle lens: I prefer lenses that are 28mm (full-frame) or wider, with an aperture of f/2.8 or faster. The wide field of view can capture the expansive nature of the aurora along with some of the environment. Tripod: A sturdy tripod is crucial for taking long exposures. Self-timer, or a remote shutter release: Using the camera’s selftimer function can reduce camera shake from physically touching the shutter button. If your camera does not have a self-timer function, a remote shutter release can trigger the shutter without touching the camera. Warm clothing: Dressing appropriately is essential for spending prolonged periods outdoors. Also consider bringing a vacuum flask containing a hot drink to help with feeling warm when spending hours outdoors in temperatures of under -20°C. Headlamp: A headlamp provides hands-free light for setting up your gear. Avoid using it too often as you need to allow your eyesight to get accustomed to the low light environment. Shooting tips Manual mode: Use manual mode on your camera to have full control over exposure settings. Shoot in RAW: This will allow you a lot more latitude to play with shadows and highlights when you come to edit your photos to bring out that beautiful streak of light in the night sky. Focus manually: Manually focus your lens so that the stars are as pinpoint sharp as possible. Use a low ISO: Start with a low ISO to reduce noise. I usually like to use around ISO 800 or 1600, but do not be afraid to increase the ISO if necessary. A couple of my favourite photos of the aurora were shot using ISO 6400, and I have even used ISO 50000 when shooting the aurora from a plane during a turbulent section of the flight as I needed a faster shutter speed. Noise is also often less noticeable if you are compressing or downsizing your image for social media posts. Wide aperture: Use the widest aperture your lens allows to allow for maximum light gathering. This can help reduce the ISO setting which you need to use.

Use foreground elements: Include foreground elements like trees and buildings to add depth and scale to your photographs. Use the daylight hours to scout for and familiarise yourself with suitable shooting locations. Do not forget to look up: Do spend some time to take your eyes away from the camera’s LCD screen or viewfinder. As pretty as photographs of the aurora look, it is no less captivating to see the aurora shimmer and weave against the dark. A subtle display of the aurora with the Milky Way near Tromsø, Norway. ISO 6400, 5 seconds, 28mm f1.7.

Low Season Traveller

Long exposure: Experiment with shutter speeds to capture the aurora’s movement. The shutter speed you choose will depend on your tolerance for star trails in your photograph. Do an online search for ‘NPF calculator’ (N refers to aperture, P refers to the pixel pitch of your camera’s sensor, and F refers to the focal length of the lens), which can help you identify what is the slowest shutter speed you can use for your star trail tolerance.

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Chasing the Aurora

52 A wooden cabin near Muonio, Finland. ISO 800, 5 seconds, 28mm f1.7.

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With greater water clarity in the winter months, abundant marine life and migrating whales stopping by, diving in the world renowned Poor Knights Marine Reserve off the coast of Tütükäkä Northland or into the sparkling waters of the Bay of Islands is the best way to experience our marine wonderland. Poor Knights Marine Reserve, Northland New Zealand

NORTHLANDNZ.COM/VISIT

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Northland is a region surrounded by coast and our subtropic climate means the water can be enjoyed year-round, just add a wetsuit, and dive in!

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Meet the Low Season Travellers

Low Season Travellers Photos: Bella Falk

Bella Falk is an award-winning travel writer, photographer, and documentary director based in London. She also creates the travel and photography blog passportandpixels.com. With published works in National Geographic Traveller, BBC Travel, Lonely Planet, and Travel Africa, as well as a catalogue of documentaries covering history, archaeology and science, Bella has a wealth of experience in creating authentic content whilst travelling. In this interview, I catch up with Bella about the media industry, developing an early love for travel and photography, and how low seasons have helped to shape her travel experiences. Ryan: What are some of your earliest travel memories?

After I finished school, I had a volunteering placement in Chile, where I first learnt Spanish whilst living with a host family. After that I travelled up through South America with a couple of girls that I’d met. I had an amazing time and realised I just didn’t want to ever get a ‘proper’ job! So I studied languages at University, partly because I knew that doing language would give me a year abroad, which I spent in Paris for six months and then for six months in Granada. After university, I thought that I would most likely be heading into the world of journalism or broadcasting, and so I found another volunteering placement in Ghana where I worked with a TV and radio station. I had never been to Africa before, and the culture shock was crazy! For the first month I was just completely bewildered as this was before you could do tons of research online before leaving; all I had was the Bradt Guide to Ghana and then I just had to turn up and figure the rest out! Ryan: Where did your love of photography start? (Left) King penguin colony, South Georgia Island

Shooting at an elephant sanctuary in Thailand

Bella: I’ve loved photography ever since I was a child, and I used to take a point-and-shoot camera to school before later enrolling in photography clubs and learning darkroom techniques. My parents bought me my first entry-level SLR camera for my 19th birthday present, which I took with me when I went to study Spanish at the University of Granada. I remember very clearly being sat on the famous viewpoint overlooking the Alhambra Palace in Granada and taking the same photo over and over again with different apertures and shutter speeds to see how the settings changed the final photo. Of course this was before digital, and when the prints came back I had no idea which photos had which settings, so it wasn’t a terribly great way to learn! Ryan: How did you get into the media industry and how did this allow you to travel? Bella: After I came back from Ghana, I did a post-graduate degree in broadcast journalism. I went to work at the BBC and started

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Bella: My dad used to travel a lot for work, and he would come back from his trips with photographs and little souvenir gifts, so I saw travel as something that was normal. I’m very lucky that I come from a family where my parents could afford to take us on holiday. We’d go every year to Aldeburgh in Suffolk, as well as camping in the south of France, but mostly I just remember fighting with my siblings on endless car journeys!

Meet the Low Season Travellers

A Maya woman spins thread in Guatemala

working on documentaries, but it wasn’t travel-related and the work was mainly domestic current affairs. I knew that I had always wanted to travel, and I was looking at opportunities to make the step across. I was offered a job on the Holiday programme, but it was only an 8-week contract, whereas I had also been offered a contract on Crimewatch for a whole year, so I decided to take that even though it didn’t involve travel.

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That job was a bit of a sliding doors moment and meant that I got pigeon-holed in the current affairs genre, and it took me a long time to sidestep back into roles where I could travel. I started working on science programmes and ended up on archaeology and palaeontology films, which allowed me to travel more to tell these historical stories.

I also spent some time working for Lonely Planet on video production. I asked my boss at the time how to start travel writing and photography for Lonely Planet, and I was told to start a blog. So I started Passport & Pixels initially as a hobby blog, and I had no idea what I was doing! But I connected with other bloggers and attended social events and learnt a lot about the industry, and ended up winning awards. It’s only over the past 2-3 years that I have started spending more time working on travel opportunities, using time between TV contracts to go on press trips, create content, and pitch for work. Ryan: What have been some of your favourite experiences when travelling for work? Bella: One of the most joyous days of my life was filming in Turkey during the COVID-19 pandemic. We had been stuck at home for such a long time; this was the summer of 2020 after the first lockdown. I was tasked with making a film about Hierapolis, a Roman city in Turkey. Hierapolis is famous for its white travertine

terraces at Pamukkale, a thermal spring spa town with a beautiful archaeological site. We were also filming at Gordian, where King Midas, the king with the golden touch, is said to have ruled. These two films were part of a series about archaeological sites. We had to plan the entire shoot via Zoom during the lockdown. When we were finally allowed to travel, I remember arriving in Istanbul, checking into the hotel in the afternoon, and going out for dinner with the team as the sun was setting. We heard the call to prayer, and I was just so giddy with delight to be out of lockdown and travelling again. Before Christmas, I also had back-to-back trips to Canada, Kenya, and Botswana. Most people only get to visit one of those places in a year (if at all!), and I was incredibly lucky to experience them all within three months. In Canada, I visited Nova Scotia and Jasper. I love wildlife, so being on safari in Kenya was incredible. Although I had been to Nairobi for a conference, this was my first safari in the Maasai Mara, which is teeming with diverse wildlife. On our first day, we saw five jackal puppies and a cheetah with two cubs making a kill, all in one drive. It was amazing. Antarctica was also absolutely sensational and South Georgia Island, which we also visited, was overwhelming. Our first landing was in a place with around a million penguins. I was almost paralysed by the choice of where to point the camera. It was a truly bonkers experience. I really want to go back, but I fear no trip will ever top that one. Travelling to Antarctica is tricky because I am conscious of my carbon footprint and the impact of tourism. While many places benefit from tourism and rely on it to support communities and fund conservation, Antarctica has no local population, and the wildlife isn’t under the same threat from poaching or habitat destruction as

Meet the Low Season Travellers when hosted trips are more likely to be offered. While this means I might miss out on some peak-season events, there are unique experiences in the low season that people often overlook. For example, in Kenya outside of peak seasons you will encounter far fewer safari vehicles, allowing for a more intimate and enjoyable wildlife experience. So, while low season travel might mean missing out on some specific events or wildlife migrations, the benefits of fewer crowds, cooler weather, and lower costs outweigh these drawbacks for me. Ryan: What are some of the key ways to tell an authentic travel story either through photography/videography or in a written piece? Bella: For me, authenticity in travel storytelling comes from being honest and genuine. I don’t have a filter and I find it hard to lie, so I just share my true experiences. This can be tricky from a journalism perspective because there can sometimes be tension between honesty and the fact that PR sends you to a destination hoping for a positive story. When something doesn’t go right or isn’t to my taste, I still try to convey the truth in a balanced way. For example, I was recently in the Seychelles, and while it was incredibly beautiful, it was also very humid and sweaty. I made sure to mention the humidity in my story, while also highlighting the beauty of the place. It’s important to remember that mine is just one viewpoint and other people may have different preferences, or travel at a different time and have a different experience. The Rocky Mountaineer train passes through pine and aspen forests on its way to Jasper, Canada

in other regions. Promoting Antarctica travel is challenging because it is a pristine environment, and the fewer people there, the better it would be for the region.

As a photographer, I obviously want to share beautiful, genuine photos. I often travel during the low season or get up at dawn to capture scenes without crowds and with lovely lighting. However, I don’t edit out crowds; instead, I try to shoot around them or embrace the reality of the situation. For instance, in India, the main sites were so busy with people taking selfies, so I started capturing those moments and found it really interesting.

Ryan: Seasonality must have an effect on how and when you travel for both business and pleasure. How do you think low season travel differs from peak-season? Bella: For me, low season travel has always been my preference. I don’t have kids, I don’t particularly like crowds, and I generally prefer to avoid hot weather. Being from Britain, I find temperatures above 30 degrees unbearable. So, travelling during the low season, when it’s cooler and less crowded, suits me perfectly. For example, I recently went to Cyprus in early April. It’s incredibly popular in the summer, but when we visited, there were hardly any tourists. The weather was perfect for hiking, with temperatures around 20 degrees. I’m not one for lying on a beach as I get bored and burn easily, so cooler, low season weather is ideal for me to explore and take photos.

As a travel writer, I often travel during the low season because that’s

Low Season Traveller

Low season travel is also cheaper, which is a big plus. The only real downside for me is that certain peak seasons are tied to amazing wildlife experiences. For instance, the Great Migration in Africa is something I’ll probably never see because it generates high-demand which leads to crowds and higher prices. Similarly, I’ve just been to Churchill, Manitoba, on a press trip to see polar bears. The peak time for bear sightings is late autumn when they congregate waiting for the sea ice to form. In the summer, they are more spread out and so they were much harder to find - we did manage to see three, but from very far away. Jackal puppies relaxing in Kenya

Meet the Low Season Travellers Ryan: What have been some of your favourite/surprising destinations to visit in the low season? Bella: I often travel during the low season because it’s cheaper and I can avoid the school holidays. Two trips that come to mind are Cyprus in spring and Jasper, Canada in the fall. In Cyprus, the spring flowers were in full bloom, creating a stunning landscape, while Jasper’s autumn colours were simply breathtaking.

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One surprising low season destination was Botswana in December. I visited a lodge located on the route of the zebra migration, where they have a waterhole where thousands of zebras congregate during the dry season. The lodge owner warned me that by December, the rains would have started, and the zebras would have dispersed. However, I was fortunate that the rains were late last year. When I arrived, the area was teeming with zebras for two days, until the rain finally came and they all disappeared overnight.

58 A worker arranges a ceremonial sash at a temple in the Sacred City of Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka

The rainy season in Botswana has been nicknamed the ‘green season’, and though it isn’t as popular with tourists, it’s a fantastic time to visit. Everything springs to life, and it’s the season when animals have their babies. During my visit, I saw baby warthogs, vervet monkeys and loads of young impalas. So there are so many things that people get to see in the low seasons that are equally as amazing as the peak season experiences that are more popular. Ryan: As an award-winning travel writer, photographer and filmmaker, what advice would you give to someone starting out in the travel industry? Bella: It’s such a hard question nowadays because the industry is constantly evolving, especially with the impact of AI and changes in how content is consumed. I would never want to discourage anyone from following their dreams, but it’s important to be realistic. Very few people, if any, make a full-time living solely from travel writing.

Meet the Low Season Travellers You have to diversify. For instance, while I do make some money from my blog Passport & Pixels, and travel writing, I also have TV projects that contribute to my income. It’s important to have a backup plan and a variety of income sources. Starting a blog or social media page can be a great way to demonstrate your enthusiasm, creativity, and talent. Whether it’s through Instagram, YouTube, TikTok, or a blog, you have to show what you can do, as nobody is going to just give you a job without seeing your work first. The barriers to entry are much lower now than when I started; today you can easily set up your own platform, learn from online tutorials and practice with affordable equipment none of which existed when I started 20 years ago.

Investing in your blog or platform is also really important. It can be hard to justify spending money on something that doesn’t yet make money, but a good website, fast hosting, and quality tools can make a significant difference. Research which courses are worth the investment, as not all of them are equally valuable. My advice would be to manage your expectations, prove your capabilities, get out there and create content, network extensively, and invest in your platform. While it’s important to be realistic about the challenges, it’s also crucial to stay positive and adaptable.

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Networking is crucial. Passport & Pixels really took off when I started attending events, meetups, and joining online groups, learning from others and building connections in the industry.

Featured Destination: Austria

Austria

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Imperial grandeur, Alpine hikes, villages and wine

60 Infinity pool with a view over the Alps

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Austria

Peterskirche, Vienna, Austria

Low Season Traveller

By: Claire French

Did you think cable cars were just for wintertime skiers and boarders? It’s a common misconception but actually many run throughout the year. It’s a fun way to travel and offers excellent access to Austria’s stunning natural landscapes, rich in flora and fauna, mountainside villages, and magnificent viewpoints. Though crowded at the most popular times during the peak winter snow and summer sun seasons, April and May or October and November is a whole different ball game. Taking a chair lift in these low season months can be another-worldly, almost eerie, experience allowing you to revel in the beautiful springtime wildflowers and the glorious russet shades of autumn in relative privacy. Sure, some will close for essential maintenance, and the weather can be more unpredictable, but take local advice and reserve some flexibility and you’ll save cash while enjoying the best of Austrian adventures. Vibrant Cities Travelling in low season also offers the chance to explore Austria’s charming towns and cities without the inflated price tag of peak

Low season: April-May, October-November travel. You may well be familiar with the stunning palaces and historic coffee shops of Vienna, but consider also smaller centres which have so much for the low season traveller to enjoy. Discover the old centre of Innsbruck and the fine Renaissance Ambras Castle close by. Or you might take in Salzburg and visit Mirabell Gardens, Mondsee Cathedral, and Lake Wolfgang on a ‘Sound of Music’ tour. Likewise, pretty Linz and Graz are picturesque cities full of history and beautiful Baroque architecture. Low Season Events With significant permanent populations of culture loving locals, it’s no surprise that Austria enjoys year-round quality festivals and exhibitions. Wien Modern is a celebration of art and music that takes place each November since 1988. ART Innsbruck is an international art fair which also takes place in low season with graphics, sculptures, installations, and photography exhibits at different venues round the city, while Klanglicht, organised by local theatres, transforms Graz into a city of light, music and art. If you’re

Featured Destination: Austria Mozart & Strauss Musical Experience Just about every city offers musical performances from the golden age of composition. Whether you opt for a formal affair in a glorious opera house of old or a more relaxed version, you’ll be treated to costumed shows which really bring to life the Magic Flute, Blue Danube and Marriage of Figaro. Swarovski Crystal Worlds Step inside a glittering land of art, sculpture and installations dedicated to the cut glass empire of Swarovski. Opened in 1995, the museum is located some 20km outside Innsbruck and features various chambers, a crystal dome, and an outdoor landscaped area of a giant’s head and waterfall.

FOOD & DRINK Starkenberger Beer Pools, Tarrenz In the village of Tarrenz, you can immerse yourself in beer, quite literally, at this historic brewery’s beer-filled swimming pool spa. Apparently the warm beverage’s nutrients are excellent for the skin and general health, and you can enjoy a cold one while relaxing. Wiener Schnitzel Choose a traditional cosy eatery on a low season evening to enjoy this local fave. The meat should be veal to be officially ‘Wiener Schnitzel’ but often chicken or pork is offered as an alternative. It’s breaded and fried until deliciously golden, and served with fries and greens.

National Park Hohe Tauern, Austria

Coffeehouse Culture ‘Kaffehauser’ have a 300 year long tradition providing meeting places for social orders of all kinds, intellectuals and bourgeoisie. These days the chandeliers and marbled tables often remain and what’s better than a hot chocolate and a Sacher cake to warm up a low season day.

after something a little more physical, the sporty Tour de Tirol takes place in October and includes the renowned 75km Ultra Trail.

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The Great Outdoors Austria enjoys some wonderful, well-developed hiking and cycling trails taking in forested mountainsides, lakes and waterfalls. Many paths remain easily accessible in low season, although you’d be wise to stick to the simpler routes and keep a close eye on the weather forecast. Favourite day treks include the Lunersee Circuit in the Ratikon Alps, Stone Pine Path in the Tux Alps and Sanderee in Hohe Tauern National Park. There are also plenty of low season opportunities to give kayaking, rafting or climbing a try. Alternatively, just spending time relaxing in nature can rejuvenate even the most stressed workaholic. In fact, it’s been scientifically proven that ‘forest bathing’, as the practice is known, reduces blood pressure, increases immunity and improves mental health.

TOP EXPERIENCES Stay in an Alpine Spa Resort Warm up in one of Austria’s many world class thermal spas. Choose rustic luxury accommodation made from natural sustainable resources. Enjoy delicious healthy dining and wonderful bathing facilities where you can relax and rejuvenate your soul against breath-taking mountain backdrops.

Austrian wiener schnitzel

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Featured Destination: Austria

64 Vineyard in Kahlenbergerdorf, near Vienna

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Austria

Featured Destination: Austria INSIDER TIPS •

In autumn many restaurants host an event called “Wildwochen”. At this time their menus include some truly delicious specialities from the long held tradition of game hunting. Typical dishes include venison ragout and wild boar medallions accompanied with homemade cranberry sauce.

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Also known as ‘Buschenschank’, Heurigers are traditional rustic wine taverns where you can join the locals to taste the first young wines of the season. Look for a bundle of sticks (buschen) at the entrance indicating that the place is open. They also serve delicious hearty local cuisine.

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Colourful harvest festivals and vibrant wine festivals take place in South Styria in late September and early October. These are times of great tradition. A practice of gratitude and offering mingles with much merriment. Be sure to try Sturm, a semi-fermented freshly pressed grape juice.

GOOD TO KNOW October 26th sees Austrian National Day, celebrating the country’s declaration of permanent neutrality after WWII as well as its 1955 status as an independent nation. The day includes free entry to museums, the hoisting of flags, military parades, fireworks and displays of red and white balloons.

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Every March and April over 100,000 apricot trees start blooming in the Wachau Valley. This beautiful region on the banks of the River Danube has been granted a protected designation of origin for the delicious fruit but the rosy white springtime blossom itself makes for unforgettable views.

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Thanks to its role as the seat of the vast Austro-Hungarian Empire, Austria is filled with hundreds of magnificent palaces and towering castles to be enjoyed by the mere public. Vienna’s stunning Schönbrunn has 1400 rooms, while mediaeval Riegersburg Castle in Styria sits atop a dormant volcano.

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66 Aerial view of Salzburg, Austria

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Featured Destination: Austria

FEATURED PHOTO

Featured Photo

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Photo by: Drew Barnes The Wanaka Tree, New Zealand.

One of the most photographed trees in the world — minus the crowds. This was taken at the very start of winter and there wasn’t a soul in sight for this early morning sunrise. Do you have a photo that you think captures the essence of low season travel? Email editor@lowseasontraveller.com for an opportunity to feature in a future edition.

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Featured Photo

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Italy’s Brilliant Bari: Home to Santa Claus and a Killer Spaghetti

ITALY’S Brilliant Bari Home to Santa Claus and a killer spaghetti

Renowned for its beaches and cuisine, Italy’s Puglia region - the heel of Italy’s boot - is a quintessential summer hotspot. As summer ends and visitor numbers drop, Puglia seemingly goes into hibernation. But not quite. Bari, our regional capital, is one of the few year-round Puglia destinations. Historically significant as a former Roman settlement and a crucial port rivalling Naples, it has evolved into a cosmopolitan city with a population of just over 315,000 people. Always popular with pilgrims - the relics of San Nicola lie within the Basilica di San Nicola - Bari was recently recognized by Lonely Planet as one of their top 5 best destinations in Europe. As the main entry point to Puglia via air, ferry, or train, most visitors stop off while passing through on summer vacation. During the low season, tourist crowds dissipate, making it the perfect time to visit Bari on a city break. Bari Vecchia Bari lies on the Adriatic Sea. At the heart of the city is the old town, Bari Vecchia, a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys. Extensive regeneration has transformed the area into a vibrant hub for bars and restaurants. Yet, it remains authentic, and most buildings are still homes to families who have lived here for generations. Front doors open into cool shadows, revealing glimpses of southern Italian everyday life. The delicious aroma of home-cooked food wafting from houses, the excited noisy chatter of people gathered (Left) The legendary El Chiringuito at Bari’s old port

Photos: The Puglia Guys

together for a family meal, and laundry swaying from overhead balconies, drying in the lazy afternoon warmth. Staying in Bari Vecchia is the best way to experience Bari like a local. There are many private rentals and modern serviced apartments found on Booking.com. Bari for Foodies Bari has become an alternative place of pilgrimage for the foodie. At its centre is one of the most unique pasta dishes in all of Italy. Spaghetti all’assassina, also known as spaghetti bruciati (burnt spaghetti fried from raw with tomato passata, garlic, and chilli), was described on a recent visit by actor and food writer Stanley Tucci as “out of this world.” Eat epic street food in the courtyards of Bari Vecchia, or soak up the atmosphere at any one of its many restaurants, serving up a menu of traditional, authentic Barese cuisine. From food on the go: focaccia barese (local focaccia made with potato in the dough, drizzled with olive oil and topped with tomatoes, oregano, and olives), panzerotti (fried pizza dough crescents filled with mozzarella and tomato, crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside) and sgagliozze (fried polenta fritters) to frutti di mare crudi (raw seafood) and slowcooked traditional dishes: ragù di braciole (stuffed horse meat rolls, slow-cooked in tomato sauce) and tiella di riso, patate e cozze (rice, potato, and mussels baked in layers in a terracotta dish), the Bari kitchen table is comforting and delicious.

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By: The Puglia Guys

Italy’s Brilliant Bari: Home to Santa Claus and a Killer Spaghetti

Bari’s killer spaghetti - spaghetti all’assassina

A Cultural Hub Bari’s cultural offerings are diverse, with a range of museums and landmarks to explore. The Civic Museum, Archaeological Museum and Art Gallery showcase the city’s artistic heritage. The Castello Svevo, a formidable Norman fortress, offers panoramic views of the city and the sea, while the Teatro Margherita, Teatro Petruzzelli and Spazio Murat champion contemporary arts in historic settings.

Puglia ceramics and other souvenirs. Then head across the road to the Porto Vecchio fisherman’s market on Molo San Nicola where Bari’s fishermen sell their daily catch. You can buy a plate of fresh seafood with a hunk of bread and a slice of lemon for €5 if you get there by mid-morning. In the afternoon and early evening, grab a panzerotto and ice-cold Peroni beer for under 4€ (for both) from the legendary El Chiringuito.

For those interested in religious history, the Basilica di San Nicola is a must-visit. It houses the relics of Saint Nicholas (aka Father Christmas). Pilgrims still flock here to pay homage, adding a spiritual dimension to the city’s appeal.

From here, you can take a leisurely stroll along Lungomare Nazario Sauro, Bari’s scenic waterfront, dotted with palm trees, cafes, and panoramic vistas of the Adriatic Sea.

Eat, See, Do For a snack before or after lunch, some focaccia barese is essential. We recommend Panificio Fiore. There might be a long line, but service is quick. They have been baking since 1508, so what’s a 5-minute wait? For an even longer line, head to Panificio Santa Rita, Bari’s busiest bakery.

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After lunch, pass through the courtyard of the Basilica San Nicola to the other side of the old town for a coffee in one of the local bars and a change of scenery.

Stroll down the Strada delle Orecchiette (via dell’Arco Basso) where you can watch the ladies of Bari Vecchia make and sell fresh pasta outside their front doors. The easiest way to find it is to head to the Castello Svevo on the edge of the old town, near the main port and the basilica. En route, you can stop off for some fried polenta fritters from Le Sgagliozze di Donna Carmela on the picturesque Largo Albicocca, or enjoy Bari’s best gelato at Gelateria Gentile. If you have not done so already pass through Piazza Mercantile and Piazza del Ferrarese, perfect spots for an aperitivo and people watching! Puglia Design Store is worth a visit for quality made in

If you want spaghetti all’assassina for lunch we recommend Al Sorso Preferito just outside Bari Vecchia on the other side of the old port (many of the old town restaurants only serve all’assassina for dinner). But if you are staying for dinner, we recommend you have it at La Locanda dell’Elfo, a local favourite. If it’s not on the menu, just ask! For those who prefer an organised tour, the Free Walking Tour Bari is led by a qualified, local guide. At a little under 3 km, it takes just over 2 hours and is in English. At the end you are invited to pay what you want. Getting There Puglia has two international airports: Bari International AirportKarol Wojtyla and Brindisi’s Salento Airport. Both have a number of international flights as well as regular connections to and from Rome, Milan, and other destinations in Italy. Bari airport is located 15 km away from the centre of Bari. Train and bus connections from the airport to Bari Centrale (the main downtown railway station) run frequently. Taxi services are available. Buon viaggio!

Italy’s Brilliant Bari: Home to Santa Claus and a Killer Spaghetti

Bari Vecchia

Strada delle Orecchiette

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Bari Vecchia

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Featured Destination: Whitby, UK

74 A life-sized replica of Captain Cook’s HM Bark Endeavour heading out to sea between Whitby’s piers

Featured Destination: Whitby, UK

Whitby

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Spooky nights and seaside delights in this coastal Gothic town

Featured Destination: Whitby, UK

Whitby Abbey standing above the town

Low Season Traveller

By: Ryan Maley

Low seasons: September-May

You first get a bird’s eye view of Whitby as you begin your descent from the North Yorkshire Moors, its East and West piers reaching out to the wild North Sea like a broken wishbone. Though wellknown as a quintessentially British seaside destination, Whitby has an important place in history. The town was home of intrepid explorer Captain Cook and the inspiration behind Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula, and the iconic Whitby Abbey hosted one of the most important events in the history of the Church of England. Dig a little deeper under the quaint cobbled streets and you will find a place bursting with history and mystery…

beach, crowd the arcades, and ransack the rock shops. However, outside of these months, it’s not unusual to find the streets your own, or to easily grab the best seats by the fire in a cosy pub. Wind and rain may persist in the winter months, but dress appropriately and enjoy a stroll down the piers to truly blow the cobwebs away, or even brave a brief voyage out to sea on one of the tourist boats. Taking place twice a year around springtime and Halloween, Whitby Goth Weekend is a busy time, though it offers a fantastic opportunity for people-watching as pristinely-dressed goths from around the country descend on the town.

As a seaside destination, Whitby is at its busiest during the summer months and school holidays, when families flock to the blue flag

The best time to discover the seriously spooky side of Whitby is during Halloween. Coinciding with the Goth Weekend, Whitby

Featured Destination: Whitby, UK puts on a spectacular Halloween display, illuminating the famous abbey during the evenings. Enjoy one of the town’s ghost walks, catch ‘Moaning Lisa’ wandering the streets, or explore Dracula’s connection with the town at the perilous Dracula Experience. History and Heritage Looming over Whitby from the East Cliff is the imposing Whitby Abbey, whose site dates back to the 7th Century. In 664, the abbey hosted the Synod of Whitby, to decide whether the Northumbrian Church would follow Roman or Celtic Christianity, and how the date of Easter was set. The Gothic church was completely rebuilt in the 13th Century before the effects of weather and war left the building in the ruins that are present today. The 199 steps that make it up to the abbey are certainly a challenge, though spare a thought for the pallbearers who had to carry coffins up the steps when the neighbouring St. Mary’s Church was open for burials! From the 14th Century, merchants from Europe were trading with the wealthy Whitby Abbey, and the town’s two piers were built to provide a welcome respite along the rugged east coast. By the 18th Century, all coal-carrying ships were required to pay taxes to help with the upkeep of the piers, and as of today both are still open for visitors to stroll along on their visit.

Cosy Corners Is there anything better during the winter months than whiling away the time in quaint shops and traditional pubs whilst the rain beats down on the windows? Do your exploring of the town when the weather is fine, but when the rain comes Whitby certainly has you covered. On the cobbled Church Street, the Black Horse dates back to the 16th Century, and professes to have one of Europe’s oldest public serving bars. Whether or not this is true, the tiny pub has a couple of rooms to find a seat, and plenty of ales and spirits on offer. Don’t miss its ‘Yapas’ — Yorkshire Tapas — which features everything from local cheeses and paté to pies and soup. Along the same street you’ll find plenty of cosy cafes serving up homemade cakes and treats and winter-warming coffee, teas, and hot chocolates. Spend some time in Whitby Bookshop, which offers two floors of books connected by a winding staircase. Take a look at the local interests shelf for books about Whitby and North Yorkshire, and pick up your copy of Dracula if you haven’t yet read it! Make sure to buy your Whitby Lucky Duck from Whitby Glass as a keepsake from your trip, and don’t forget to squeeze yourself into Justin’s Chocolatier for the best fudge around!

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Whitby for Walking Surrounded by the North Yorkshire Moors National Park, low season visits to Whitby offer the perfect opportunity to get out and explore nature. A 2-mile wander along Whitby Beach when the tide is out takes you to Sandsend, where the bustling Sandside Café has been serving visitors for over a century. On the Cinder Track, a

21.7-mile walking and cycling route built along the disused coastal railway between Scarborough and Whitby, you can take a moderate 7-mile walk with fantastic coastal views from the centre of town to the neighbouring Robin Hood’s Bay. Alternatively, follow the River Esk as it makes its way out of Whitby to Grosmont, where you can treat yourself to coffee and cake at the Old School Coffee Shop before hopping on the steam train that takes you back to the centre of town.

77 An aerial view of Whitby Abbey

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Whitby

78 Sunset view down Whitby’s 199 steps

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Whitby

Featured Destination: Whitby, UK

Aerial view of Whitby town and Whitby Beach

TOP EXPERIENCES

Low Season Traveller

North Yorkshire Moors Steam Train Take a trip on one of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway Pullman steam trains. Offering unique experiences such as afternoon tea, local gin tasting, and seasonal menus, the steam trains operate between Pickering and Whitby, making stops at several heritage stations along the way. Stop off at Goathland, which served as the original Hogsmeade Station in Harry Potter, as well as Aidensfield in Heartbeat.

Discover Dracula In Bram Stoker’s novel, Dracula’s ship The Demeter ran aground on Tate Hill Sands in Whitby, before Dracula, in the shape of a large dog, ran up the 199 steps toward St. Mary’s Church. Whitby has fully embraced its sinister side, with tours, museums, and gifts all celebrating the town’s eerie connections. Captain Cook Captain James Cook, the famous explorer known for first mapping New Zealand, Hawaii, and Australia as a Western explorer, lived in Whitby during his formative years as a merchant navy apprentice.

Cook lodged at prominent ship owners John and Henry Walker’s house on the harbour when not at sea, which has now been transformed into the Captain Cook Memorial Museum. Explore the museum to see what life was like for 17-year-old Cook, find his statue atop the West Cliff, or even board ‘The Endeavour Experience’, a life-size replica of his HM Bark Endeavour ship moored in Whitby harbour.

FOOD AND DRINK Fish and Chips You can’t leave Whitby without enjoying some of the finest fish and chips you’ll ever taste. Magpie Café is undoubtedly the tourists’ favourite choice, with its black and white facade and queues lining the street in the peak seasons. Another firm favourite is Trenchers, winner of the UK’s Best Fish & Chip Restaurant in 2019, where you can grab a takeaway and sit along the harbour whilst enjoying your delicious meal. Whitby Brewery In the shadow of Whitby Abbey, Whitby Brewery has been producing Yorkshire ales for over a decade. The popularity of the

Featured Destination: Whitby, UK brewery has grown exponentially since moving into the fantastic premises on the East Cliff, with plenty of space to sit outside when the weather is fine. A tour of the brewery costs £15 and includes three 1/3-pint tasters. Found a favourite tipple? You’ll find plenty of pubs around town serving up Whitby Brewery’s beers. Fortune’s Kippers The lovely Henrietta Street which leads to the East Pier is home to a Whitby institution: Fortune’s Kippers. Established in 1872 by William Fortune, the traditional smokehouse smells incredible when the rows and rows of hanging kippers are being smoked. Take a peek inside on your way past, and purchase some of their produce to take home and enjoy. Kippers hanging a smokehouse in Whitby

INSIDER TIPS Boxing Day Swim Do you fancy clearing a foggy head and full belly after Christmas? Every year on Boxing Day, the Whitby District Lions Club organises the town’s traditional dip in the North Sea, raising money for charity. Brave locals and visitors alike run into the sea on Whitby Beach, cheered on by the crowds watching from the West Pier. Whitby Lobster Hatchery As a town known for its rich maritime history, Whitby Lobster Hatchery has opened premises inside the old fish market, in order to help conserve the local lobster population. The hatchery aims to release 100,000 juvenile lobsters into the sea to protect the industry and offset the number of lobsters caught by Whitby’s fishing fleet. You can visit the Marine Discovery Centre to learn more about the region’s marine wildlife.

Whaling History If you stand on the West Cliff, you can look through a huge whalebone arch to get a perfect picture-postcard view of the city. The whalebone signifies Whitby’s history in whaling, when crews returned from the seas off Greenland in the 18th and 19th centuries displaying a whale’s jaws on the ship’s mast to show that they had made the kill, rather than falling victim themselves. Whitby Jet Whitby Jet, made from fossilised wood formed some 180 million years ago, is sold all across town. The jet-black jewellery can be found in earrings, necklaces, and rings, and is a great way to pick up a special piece to remember your trip. Free Car Parking If you’re heading to Whitby in the low season, many of the counciloperated car parks are free from November through February. Check Scarborough Council’s website for up-to-date costs, or use the town’s Park and Ride facility to get into the centre.

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Whale and Dolphin Watching Every autumn, shoals of herring migrate to waters off the coast of Yorkshire to spawn, which in turn brings a range of wildlife to the coast of Whitby to feed. Take a boat tour to catch everything from puffins and cormorants to minke whale and dolphin.

GOOD TO KNOW

81 Whitby harbour at dusk

Low Season Traveller

Low Season Traveller Thinking Small in Croatia

Thinking Small in Croatia

l al m S g in nk hi T IN CROATIA Walking the groves of a Dalmatian olive oil farm

Photos: Agnes Groonwald

Kristo Kristović wants to be an ambassador for olive oil. A walk through his groves in Dubrovnik is a lesson in what it takes to win over even the most discerning tastebuds. Every single tree has earned an individual approach. A visitor might think that sounds tedious, but for Kristo, that’s the beauty of small-scale olive oil production.

wasn’t as natural. That part was his wife Tea’s idea. She sold it to him as an opportunity to teach visitors about the importance of olives to this corner of the world, with no additional work for Kristo outside of showing people around. She would do the rest, namely the prep work involved in the more indulgent aspects of visits here. DuOlive was born. The family’s hobby groves became a business.

The attention paid to each leaf and each patch of dirt didn’t come naturally. Despite generations of connection to these groves, Kristo has only worked this land as a full-time job since 2019. Before then, the trees sat neglected while he climbed the ladder as a mechanical engineer.

A visit to Dubrovnik these days may be a tough sell for travellers seeking a reflective experience.

The groves have always been a part of the family history, but the commitment and care required to help them realise their full potential wasn’t always possible. There was a mass move to the Czech Republic for new opportunities by much of his grandfather’s generation. Then there was the Croatian War of Independence in the 1990s that ravaged the local economy. These groves survived periods of war and transition in Croatia that would take down the less resilient. New Beginnings When the pandemic hit, a return to the groves felt like a chance to avoid inevitable burnout and revisit familiar roots. It was a learning curve, certainly, but one that tapped into an existing connection to the land. It took several years to get the groves healthy, to get them to a place where Kristo could say, “This is what I want.” Welcoming tourists (Left) A closeup of an early season olive tree

The summer months are inundated with cruise ships and Game of Thrones enthusiasts looking for dragon keeps and the perfect social media backdrop. A trip in the off-season months begs for flexibility. A good portion of high-season shops and eateries shut their doors. In the hills beyond town, though, there’s always work to be done. Golden Harvests Picking season along the Dalmatian coast runs between October and November, depending on what’s happening with the trees. In the weeks leading up to that point, efforts are dedicated to recruitment and planting a different kind of seed. Friends and family are coaxed into committing to a week of hand-picking and treeshaking before Kristo takes the fruits to nearby mills for pressing. It’s a sight to see. A few huge nets surround each tree to catch the fruit that comes down when a finger-like branch shaker does its work. Anything missed in the first round of shaking and collecting is plucked manually. It’s painstaking work, but this is how it’s done here. This is how it’s always been done.

Low Season Traveller

By: Agnes Groonwald

Thinking Small in Croatia The months prior are spent watching the fruits change color, a crucial moment for extra virgin olive oil to get the right balance. If you pluck them too green, you get more pungency and bitterness. If you keep them on their branches for too long, the oxidation process begins. It’s this level of care that allows Kristo and Dalmatian growers like him to compete with bigger producers in Italy and Spain. While the volume of olive oil produced here can’t compete with those heavy hitters, the meticulousness involved with small productions like this one means unmatched quality. It means a commitment to making a quality product over making money selling artisanal oils. The money is certainly nice, Kristo says, but he’s much more invested in ensuring the health of a product that means so much to not only his family, but the community. Seeing pictures of people cooking pasta with a bottle of their olive oil has been more meaningful than expected. Recognition for that effort in the form of national olive oil contests is nice, too. A Winning Formula Croatian olive oil has won numerous accolades on the international stage in recent years, including at the prestigious NYIOOC World Olive Oil Competition. Croatian producers earned the fourthhighest number of awards at the 2024 competition despite fewer registered oils participating and a much smaller footprint for growing. The product is a result of generations of knowledge. Kristo hopes to participate on the world stage eventually. He talks about it not with envy, but pride that it’s even possible A spread of food you can expect at DuOlive

thanks to hard work and a dedication to the craft. It all hasn’t gone unrecognised. He won gold medals in the annual Žrnovnica Oil competition in Split in 2022 and 2023. My husband and I visited Kristo’s grove before picking season, spending over four hours walking the groves and listening to the intricacies of determinants on flavour and colour. The tour, a wordof-mouth suggestion from a local in town, was described to us as an olive oil tasting. We tasted quite a bit of olive oil — injecting olive oil into pieces of orange is one of our new favorite treats — but our visit was far more than that. It was an immersion into olive oil making and the history of these groves. It was as local an experience as you can get in a city that has been losing a bit of its identity over the years to over-tourism. We touched the ground and the trees. We learned about what is and isn’t worth it in terms of pest control and higher yields, always with the quality of the final product in mind.

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We ate dried figs, candied almonds, meats, and cheeses, all either produced on the family property or brought in from locals nearby. We drank Croatian wine and liqueurs. We laughed as the family’s dogs, Khan and Abi, zoomed through the grove before begging for scraps.

Kristo describing the importance of soil management

It was the best meal we’d had in Croatia by miles, made all the more meaningful by the treatment we received. We started our afternoon as outsiders but became more like family, as if we now had a place in the grove’s storied history.

Thinking Small in Croatia

A view of the grove with a mountain backdrop

Good to know Olive oil production in Croatia dates back to ancient Rome, particularly along the Istrian peninsula. Istrian olive oils enjoy Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status from the European Union. Many growers there offer tours, as well.

Researchers say there are olive trees that are over a thousand years old in Dalmatia, still producing fruit. It’s no wonder why olives have always featured so prominently in Croatian cuisine. Visits to DuOlive’s grove in autumn mean the potential to participate in the harvest. Exact dates vary and are weather-dependent. Arriving before the harvest means a chance to see the olives at their best. It’s also a chance to see Dubrovnik at its best, with fewer crowds, cooler temperatures, and lower prices on accommodations. Tasting during the autumn period will focus on the previous year’s olive oil. The new olive oil won’t be ready until closer to the end of November.

Low Season Traveller

The most common indigenous varieties of olives in Croatia are the buža and oblica olives, but there are over 30 different domestic types grown all over the country. Growers also plant over 40 foreign varieties within their groves.

Featured Destination: Zambia

Zambia Low Season Traveller

Authentic unspoiled wilderness in Africa’s best kept secret

86 Devil’s Pool, Zambia

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Zambia

Crowned Crane foraging on the grasslands of the Liuwa Plains, Zambia

By: Claire French Waking to the early morning sound of bird song, under the thatch of your Luangwa National Park bush camp lodge you wonder why you would ever want to be anywhere else. You listen carefully to something between a cacophony and a chorus but you can just about pick out the distinctive calls of the kingfisher, hornbill, cuckoo and hoopoe. Zambia might not be the first destination you think of for a safari adventure, but with sensational wildlife, remote national parks and rich wild landscape, it’s becoming increasingly popular as a less commercialised, more pristine alternative to the big safari experiences of South Africa, Botswana, and Kenya.

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Evoking sensations of old Africa, Zambia’s lodges remain intimate, exclusive and authentic, with exceptional game viewing. That’s not to say you’ll be living rough, on the contrary, you’ll enjoy the personal attention of professional staff, and although you can opt for a rustic experience if that’s what you want, top camps offer spacious villas, stunning verandas, plunge pools and delicious local cuisine. Zambian guides and conservationists are dedicated and experienced and it’s not unusual to have elephants, monkeys and even leopards and lions curiously creeping in through the camp itself.

As it’s sandwiched between the Tropic of Capricorn and the Equator, Zambia has a tropical climate with a mild dry winter May to October and humid wet summers November to April. June to August sees the peak for safaris with animals gathering at watering holes and sparse vegetation making them easy to spot. However, you’ll also pay higher rates and the small camps get booked up well in advance. October is very hot and dry while November is the start of the green season with rains continuing until March or April. December to February sees the heaviest rains with low lying camps closing completely. Those that do stay open however offer special activities you won’t find in the high season, such as boat safaris and sensational bird watching.

Low Season: October-April Victoria Falls Creating a border with Zimbabwe is the Zambezi River and the magnificent Victoria Falls, measuring an impressive 2km and 103 metres deep. It’s appropriately named Mosi-oa-Tunya (Smoke that Thunders) by the locals. Walkways explore the optimum viewing points, and activities like zip-wiring are available if you fancy it. Be warned, early in the low season, November and December, following the dry weather, the falls can be a disappointing trickle, but are good to visit from March to July when they become fuller again. On the other hand, the exhilarating Devil’s Pool on the very edge is usually open August to January, after which the water levels rise making it too dangerous to swim. National Parks With 19 national parks and 34 game management areas, almost 40% of Zambia’s land is under protection, showcasing an array of diverse ecosystems. The grasslands of Liuwa Plain are the site of a major wildebeest migration and were once home to Lady Liuwa, a last lonely lioness and subject of a National Geographic documentary. Kafue and Luangwa National Park house zebras, lions, cheetahs, leopards and huge crocodiles as well as rare antelope like sable & roan. The stunningly scenic Lower Zambezi National Park is a haven for wildlife and recently listed as the world’s first carbon neutral park. Many camps close during the wet December to March, but great bargains are to be had at those that remain accessible. It’s a beautiful, lush, green period with fab opportunities for herbivore calving and terrific sightings of baby animals. South Luangwa and the Bangweulu Wetlands in particular are open for unforgettable canoe safaris, and exceptional bird watching.

Featured Destination: Zambia TOP EXPERIENCES The Bat Migration, Kasanka NP From October to December, 10 million fruit bats descend on a small area of forest in Kasanka en route to neighbouring DRC, devouring local fruits and spreading seeds. Each flying mammal has a wing span of almost a metre, so that’s a whole lot of bat making for a truly spectacular sight. Kuomboka Cultural Ceremony A colourful celebration of the Lozi people, one of Zambia’s 72 tribes, takes place in the west of the country each April marking the end of the rains. The Lozi king rides a wooden barge accompanied by beating drums and a hundred rowers paddling in unison wearing traditional skins and headdresses.

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Zambia might be landlocked, but you can get your beach fix at stunning Lake Tanganyika in the country’s north. It’s a huge 677km long and one of the world’s deepest lakes. Swim, kayak, snorkel and scuba dive among the 350 different species of fish including the endemic cichlids.

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Good souvenirs are the beautifully coloured sarongs or chitenges, worn by locals and for sale at the markets and shops everywhere. They make great wall hangings or table cloths and don’t weigh much to pack, an important factor, as you will almost certainly be charged for excess luggage.

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Terrific birding is to be had at Lochinvar or Busanga Plains, but don’t miss Bangweulu Wetlands, home to the prehistoriclooking shoebill, pelicans, flamingos, storks, cranes and herons. Download the ‘Sasol Birds of Southern Africa’ app which helps even beginners distinguish between bird calls.

Wildebeest Migration Second only to the Serengeti Migration, the Liuwa Plains see tens of thousands of blue wildebeest returning south from winter grazing. Peak time for the huge herds is Oct-Nov before the heaviest rain. It’s such a special experience, more remote and intimate than that in the crowded Serengeti.

FOOD & DRINK Royal Livingstone Hotel, Victoria Falls Check out the Kubu Restaurant overlooking the Upper Zambezi. It is open for lunch and dinner but it’s a great place for an afternoon G&T on the water’s edge. You can often see plenty of wildlife including hippos and elephants frolicking in the river. Game Meat Potjie Potjie is a kind of stew popular all over southern Africa and named after the three legged cast iron pot it is traditionally cooked in. Many lodges and camps serve this fare, deliciously slow cooked over a low heat crammed with game meat, veggies, pulses and spices.

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Zambia shares the only spot in the world that marks the meeting of four countries at a single four-way quadripoint where it joins Botswana, Namibia, and Zimbabwe. Actually the point is located at the confluence of the Cuando and Zambezi rivers, denying visitors an enviable social media post.

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Zambia went by Northern Rhodesia from 1911 until independence from the British in 1964, when it was established as the Republic of Zambia, under Kenneth Kaunda, the country’s first president. The name comes from the Zambezi River, hugely important to locals and Africa’s fourth longest river.

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You might be forgiven for thinking one giraffe is much the same as another, but you’d be mistaken. The Thornicroft giraffe lives only in South Luangwa National Park and although similar to the Maasai giraffe, it has distinct markings. There are up to 800 living wild in the park and none in captivity.

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Nshima The staple carbohydrate of Zambia, made from cornmeal into a kind of thick porridge. It is another favourite local food you are bound to try at your lodge. It is served usually with fish or meat and some kind of tomato-based sauce with onions and spices.

GOOD TO KNOW

89 Hippo on the Zambeze river, Zambia

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Zambia

90 Elephants in South National Park, Zambia Mai Rice terraces atLuangwa Pa Bong Piang, Chiang

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Featured Destination: Zambia

Low Season Traveller

Cultural Heritage Icons

Cultural Heritage Icons When it comes to cultural heritage wonders, some iconic sites like the Great Wall of China or the Taj Mahal often steal the spotlight. However, our world is filled with hidden gems that showcase the rich tapestry of human history and cultural diversity. In a regular feature in collaboration with our partners at The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage, we embark on a journey to discover five lesser-known cultural heritage wonders which you may not be aware of. These extraordinary sites offer unique insights into ancient civilizations, artistry, and remarkable human achievements.

The Chocolate Hills, Bohol, Philippines Standing like an army of green (or chocolate brown during the dry season) sentinels, the Chocolate Hills of Bohol are a captivating sight. Over 1,200 mysterious mounds blanket the central Philippine island, their near-uniform conical shapes sparking wonder. Geologists debate their exact origins, but these unique formations are believed to be remnants of ancient seabed activity. The Chocolate Hills are a haven for a variety of endemic flora and fauna, making them a biodiversity hotspot in addition to their geological marvel. They’ve become a beloved symbol of Bohol and a top destination for both Filipino and international tourists.

The Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri, India

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Descend into a mesmerising architectural marvel that blends beauty with functionality: the Chand Baori stepwell. Built in the 13th century, it boasts a staggering 3,500 steps that gracefully cascade down 13 stories into the earth’s embrace. The geometric precision and sheer scale of the Chand Baori are awe-inspiring. Beyond its captivating aesthetics, this stepwell served a vital function for the community. It provided a reliable source of water in the arid region and a cool sanctuary during India’s scorching summers. The Chand Baori is a testament to the ingenuity of Indian architecture and a reminder of the importance of water in arid regions.

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Cultural Heritage Icons

Cultural Heritage Icons Cappadocia, Turkey

Historic City of Ayutthaya, Thailand Unveil the grandeur of a bygone era by exploring the ruins of Ayutthaya, the former capital of Siam. Founded in the 14th century, the city flourished as a centre of trade and diplomacy, earning the nickname ‘Venice of the East’ due to its intricate network of canals. Ayutthaya was a vibrant hub of culture and commerce for centuries. However, its glory came to an end in the 18th century when the city was sacked by invaders. Today, the ruined temples, palaces, and monasteries stand as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, whispering tales of Thailand’s glorious past. Exploring Ayutthaya allows visitors to walk in the footsteps of ancient kings and witness the artistic and architectural legacy of the Siamese kingdom.

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Cappadocia is a land sculpted by both nature and human history. Volcanic eruptions millions of years ago created a dramatic landscape, and subsequent wind and erosion have further shaped it, producing the otherworldly ‘fairy chimneys’ – towering, cone-shaped rock formations. However, Cappadocia’s wonders extend beyond geology. Early civilizations, from the Hittites to the Byzantines, carved breathtaking dwellings, churches, and monasteries into the soft volcanic rock. These underground complexes and cliffside structures offer a glimpse into the resourcefulness and artistic expression of past civilizations. Cappadocia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that combines stunning natural beauty with a rich historical tapestry.

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Cultural Heritage Icons

Newgrange, County Meath, Ireland Delve into Ireland’s ancient past at Newgrange, a prehistoric passage tomb that predates even Stonehenge and the pyramids of Giza by thousands of years. This massive mound, constructed over 5,200 years ago, is a testament to the engineering and astronomical knowledge of Ireland’s Neolithic people. The passage within the tomb aligns perfectly with the winter solstice sunrise, suggesting a sophisticated understanding of the cosmos. Newgrange is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a crucial piece of the archaeological puzzle, offering invaluable insights into the beliefs and practices of Ireland’s earliest inhabitants.

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Low Season Dream Stays

Low Season

Dream Stays In collaboration with our accommodation partners and low season traveller friends around the world, we highlight some of our favourite ‘dream stays’ which are on our bucket-list for future low season travels. This month we feature Koh Samui, Sydney, Abbeyleix, Praslin, Borneo and Wellawaya.

Low Season Traveller

Low Season Dream Stays

Low Season Traveller

Low Season Dream Stays

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Low Season Dream Stays Anantara Bophut, Koh Samui, Thailand (Left) Anantara Bophut offers a secluded paradise on the tranquil shores of Koh Samui. With elegant beachfront villas, serene tropical gardens (designed by Bill Bengsley no less), and a world-class spa, this luxurious retreat is the perfect escape for those seeking relaxation and indulgence. Experience the finest in Thai hospitality and cuisine while basking in the natural beauty of one of Thailand’s most captivating islands. www.anantara.com/en/bophut-koh-samui

Raffles Praslin, Seychelles (Above) Raffles Praslin is an opulent sanctuary set amidst the breathtaking beauty of the Seychelles. With private pool villas overlooking the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, this resort epitomises island luxury. Guests are pampered with world-class amenities, personalised service, and access to the pristine sands of Anse Lazio, one of the world’s most beautiful beaches. A truly unforgettable tropical escape awaits. www.raffles.com/seychelles

QT Sydney, Australia (Above) QT Sydney combines heritage charm with cutting-edge design in the heart of the city. Nestled within a stunningly restored historic building, this boutique hotel exudes sophistication and creativity. Expect bold interiors, impeccable service, and an artful blend of contemporary luxury. It’s the perfect base to explore Sydney’s vibrant cultural scene and iconic landmarks, while indulging in a truly unique hotel experience. www.qthotels.com/sydney-cbd

Borneo Rainforest Lodge, Malaysia (Above) Borneo Rainforest Lodge offers an immersive eco-luxury experience deep within Malaysia’s ancient Danum Valley. Surrounded by lush tropical rainforest, this secluded retreat invites guests to connect with nature in style. Explore exotic wildlife, trek through pristine jungles, and return to the comfort of elegantly appointed lodges. Ideal for eco-conscious travellers, it offers the perfect balance of adventure and relaxation in a truly unique setting. www.borneonaturetours.com/borneorainforestlodge Nestled in the heart of Ireland’s idyllic countryside, Preston House is a Georgian gem offering refined elegance with a personal touch. This historic boutique hotel exudes charm, with beautifully restored interiors, intimate guest rooms, and gourmet dining that celebrates local flavours. A stay at Preston House promises a serene retreat where you can unwind and embrace the heritage and tranquillity of Abbeyleix. www.prestonhouse.ie

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Preston House, Abbeyleix, Ireland (Above)

If you’d like to see your dream stay featured, drop us a line at: editor@lowseasontraveller.com

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Low Low Season Season Traveller Dream Stays Jetwing Kaduruketha, Sri Lanka

Jetwing Kaduruketha is a serene hideaway nestled in Sri Lanka’s lush countryside. This eco-friendly resort blends luxury with sustainability, offering elegant villas amidst paddy fields and forested hills. Immerse yourself in the region’s rich culture, enjoy authentic local cuisine, and unwind in natural surroundings. With a focus on wellness and relaxation, Jetwing Kaduruketha promises a rejuvenating escape rooted in harmony with nature.

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www.jetwinghotels.com/jetwingkaduruketha

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Low SeasonTanzania’s Traveller Culture Capturing

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Capturing Tanzania’s Culture

Tanzania’s Culture

How One Tanzanian Artist is Bringing His Culture to Life with a Bic Biro.

“My love for art began when I was a young boy, around 6 years old. I used to draw cars, chairs, houses and had fun drawing stick men. My teachers then had me help with class preparation by drawing parts of the human body. So, my passion for art was growing day by day. My mother is my role model, she was my inspiration. When I was a little boy I would watch her drawing dresses, gowns, trousers and other clothing as she was a Tailor. One day she asked who I wanted to be. I replied to her that I want to become an artist all over (Left) Machumu with his latest piece (Above) The incredible detail of Machumu’s talent with a biro

the world. She laughed at me. Then after a few days she bought me pencils, colours and sketch books. She was my inspiration and my superhero. I really got into art as I loved seeing people’s feelings and making them happy through my art. I am also making a small living as when I sell a piece, I am able to buy food and pay rent.” “I had no idea about drawing with a Bic pen. Most of my art I drew with graphite pencils but due to the lack of money, these and other supplies were hard to come by. I had only one choice, the Bic pen, I found in my mother’s bag. So, from that day I used a Bic pen and the art felt good as it was easy to control and put detail into my artwork. I also had some challenges as people could not support my art in the community. They don’t consider art as a full-time job like other jobs. So, a lack of better tools and a lack of support from relatives and the community has made my journey difficult. “

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George Machumu is a 22 year old artist from Temeke, Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania. When we discovered his incredible art on Instagram, we just had to reach out to him to see if we could showcase his work and his story in Low Season Traveller. We asked him about his love for art and how he came to create his works using only a Bic Biro.

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Capturing Tanzania’s Culture

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Capturing Tanzania’s Culture

Hippo on the Zambeze river, Zambia

“Great human artists inspire people. I want to inspire people with my art. I want to help people who are struggling like me by teaching them to draw. I want to help children live out their dreams. I want to make it a better place and educate my society that art is a good job like any other job. Nursing, teacher and so on.” We would like to recognise and thank Mr Robert Aswani who is Machumu’s mentor. Mr Aswani manages his own art gallery in Tanzania where he hosts events for local children to teach them art and keep them focused on their studies. His only ‘fee’ is their school attendance report card. He is mentoring Machumu not in his art, as by his words “I can teach Machumu nothing about art as he has a God given talent”, but mentors him about life and his artistic journey. If you would like to support Machumu’s work or commission a piece, you can find him on Instagram at @machumu_arts or you can email him on: kg6178019@gmail.com. (Left) A drawing focusing on the role of women in African society

Low Season Traveller

Another of Machumu’s latest drawings

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LOW SEASON TRAVEL MAKES YOU FEEL FREE

Low Season Traveller - Issue 9

Articles inside

Tanzania’s Culture

Low Season Dream Stays

Cultural Heritage Icons

Thinking Small in Croatia

Featured Destination: Austria

Meet the Low Season Travellers

Chasing the Aurora

Autumn Colours and Winter White...Anchorage

Featured Destination: Zona Cafetera, Colombia

Trekking Along the Snowline

Featured Destination: San Francisco

BALANCING TOURISM WITH CONSERVATION IN EAST AFRICA