Low Season Traveller - Issue 7 by Low Season Traveller

TRAVELLER LOW S E A SON

Issue 7 March 2024

WINTER EXPERIENCES IN TROMSØ, NORWAY Exploring the Arctic Circle in the world’s northernmost university city.

NO RESERVATIONS NEEDED Culinary delights in low season Goa.

BALI’S DAY OF SILENCE A serene journey of self-discovery in the low season.

M AGA Z INE

FEATURED DESTINATIONS:

QUÉBEC MOROCCO SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE SCOTLAND HUA HIN MEXICO AND MUCH MORE...

? n e p p a h t i e d a m o h W Meet the team Featured and Destinations contributors

Publishing

Publisher and CEO at Low Season Traveller Ged is the founder and CEO of Low Season Traveller; the world’s first organisation completely dedicated to the promotion of travel during the off-peak seasons in each destination as a way to alleviate the growing problem of over-tourism. A passionate advocate of the advantages of tourism, Ged has spent his entire career working with leading travel and tourism organisations.

Contributors Claire French Claire has crossed the globe, living and working on 6 continents. She’s now working on Low Season Traveller feature pieces and dreaming of her next adventure from her narrow boat home on a quiet stretch of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, where it seems to be permanently low season.

Katha Nauriyal Katha is based in Mumbai with her roots in the Himalayas. She has pursued her master’s degree in Leeds, and has since been writing about travel and hospitality — including unique homes in Lombok and day excursions from Vienna. Her portfolio includes Travel + Leisure, Trip.com (of Skyscanner) and National Geographic Traveller.

Ryan Maley

Content Development, Community Manager & Editor, Low Season Traveller Ryan is our Content Development and Community Manager, as well as Editor of the Low Season Traveller Magazine. Ryan has worked in the travel industry for almost a decade, developing content and campaigns in his home city of Manchester, UK. He is passionate about sustainable travel, and believes that travel should be accessible to all as it truly makes for a more well-rounded and culturally intelligent society.

Chris Flynn Chris is a member of the LST Advisory Board and is also the Founder & Executive Chairman of The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage. With more than 30 years’ experience in international tourism, Chris is a regular speaker at high profile international events and provides insights to leading news media channels such as BBC World News Asia Business Report.

Jay Swanson Jay Swanson arrived in Paris in 2017 for a job that didn’t exist on a visa no one had ever seen before. Somehow he made it work. He’s an American author and YouTuber who shared his entire experience starting over in Paris through daily vlogs - including finding all of the most delicious niche and international spots to eat across the city. Today his videos, guide, and the recommendations in both have led thousands of happy visitors on the trip of a lifetime in the City of Light.

Lisa TE Sonne Editor-at-Large

An award-winning writer who explored seven continents, dove many seas, and wrote for airline, Time-Life, and National Geographic media. Her books include “My Adventures” and “The Great Outdoors” for Quarto Publishers. Wrote for Oscar-winning and Emmy-winning projects. Co-founder- CharityChecks.org; member of Space.com’s launch team and The Explorers Club.

Tony Hallwood Business Development Director Tony’s career has covered senior director roles for major travel companies including SAGA, Cosmos, Airtours and My Travel. Tony’s strengths are building strong partnerships with airlines, tour operators and national tourism partners alongside maximising his extensive PR and media experience to promote a wide range of new destinations, routes and services.

Chris McNicholl Chris is a designer with over 20 years experience in the design industry. Working with some of the biggest brands on the planet in top studios and publications in London. Chris has travelled extensively and worked with Low Season Travellor from the start. Now based in New Zealand he runs Overflowcreative.co.nz.

Advertising: Get in touch with Tony Hallwood at: Tony@lowseasontraveller.com

Low Season Traveller

Ged Brown

Low Season Traveller

Editor’s note

Welcome to the seventh edition of the Low Season Traveller magazine, and the first edition of 2024. December seems a long time ago, but I hope you had a well-rested festive break and that we can help to inspire some of your low season travels for the year ahead. In this edition we’re featuring some fabulous destinations, including abundant nature in Québec; the mountain ranges, sandy beaches, and bustling cities of Morocco; and São Tomé and Príncipe’s unique fusion of Europe and Africa. We’ll explore castles, coastlines, and whisky in Scotland; sports and wellness in Hua Hin, Thailand; and the colours and culture of Mexico.

the region’s low season, whilst I share some of my favourite experiences from a recent trip to Tromsø, Norway. In the latest of our Meet the Low Season Travellers series, Jay Swanson, the creator of Paris in my Pocket, talks us through his early fascination with the French capital, and some of his top low season picks in the city. If you’ve got an idea for a wonderful low season destination, or a story to tell from a recent trip, I’d love to hear from you on the email below. Until next time,

We’ll also dive into the rituals and significance of Nyepi, Bali’s day of silence, which signifies the commencement of the Balinese New Year. Contributor Katha Nauriyal explores some of Goa’s hottest culinary experiences in the peace of

Contribute to Low Season Traveller Magazine We’re looking to grow our team of amazing contributors that are sharing their top tips and best bits of low season travel in LST Magazine. If you’re an avid writer, traveller and are passionate about sustainable travel and combating the issue of over tourism, we’d love to hear from you! Get in touch at editor@lowseasontraveller.com

Low Season Traveller

Ryan Maley Editor ryan@lowseasontraveller.com

Contents

Trom

Québec

San Diego

Scotland

Paris, Franc France

Morocco

Mexico

São Tomé an

Bolivia Featured destination

Low Season Traveller

Low season journey

Podcast Cultural heritage Featured Photograph

Contributors..............................................................................02

Meet the Low Season Travellers.............................................39

Note From the Editor..................................................................03

Featured Destination: Scotland...............................................43

Contents......................................................................................05

Featured Photograph................................................................51

Ged’s Update...............................................................................07

Featured Destination: Hua Hin, Thailand...............................53

Featured Destination: Québec.................................................09

Bali’s Day of Silence..................................................................59

Culinary Delights of Low Season Goa...................................15

Featured Destination: Mexico.................................................65

Featured Destination: Morocco...............................................21

Cultural Heritage........................................................................71

Winter in Tromsø, Norway.......................................................27

Climate Friendly Accommodation.........................................77

Featured Destination: São Tomé and Príncipe.....................33

Top 5 Travel Podcasts................................................................81

msø, Norway

Japan

Nepal Goa Hua Hin, Thailand

nd Príncipe Bali

Low Season Traveller

Madagascar

An Update from Ged

Low Season Traveller

A note

Bali Beach Sunset

An Update from Ged Greetings, fellow adventurers! It’s Ged here, writing to you from the enchanting island of Bali during the tranquil whispers of its low season. I find myself here, not just as a visitor, but as a keynote speaker at an international eco-tourism conference, discussing the virtues of off-peak travel and its kinder impact on our planet. With the conference behind me, I’ve extended my stay to soak up more of Bali, partner with local hotels, and delve deeper into the island’s myriad offerings. Bali, in recent years, has become somewhat notorious for its battle with overtourism. Yet, here I am, in what’s considered an off-peak month, and I’m pleasantly surprised by the absence of rain and the abundance of serenity. This isn’t my first rodeo in Bali; twenty-four years have passed since my last visit, and I was curious to see how much had changed. Despite the evolution, Bali retains its charm, even more so in the low season when the throngs of tourists thin out, offering a more authentic and peaceful experience.

Bali’s heart and soul, though, are its people. Their warmth, generosity, and ever-present smiles have only deepened my affection for this island. Observing local rituals and offerings at the villa’s small temple has been a daily highlight, a beautiful reminder of the island’s spiritual fabric. Now, let’s talk brass tacks—Bali is remarkably affordable. My luxurious abode sets me back a mere $100 a night, and dining out is a delicious bargain, with sumptuous meals and drinks often not exceeding $10. The daily indulgence of a 90-minute Balinese massage for just $7 has become a ritual I’ll sorely miss. Transport, however, demands patience and a bit of adventurous spirit. The island’s infrastructure, strained by the sheer volume of visitors, makes for challenging commutes. Yet, services like Gojek, Bali’s answer to Uber but with mopeds, offer an exhilarating and cost-effective way to navigate the island’s scenic sprawl.

Ged enjoying downtime Culinary adventures abound in Bali, with nasi goreng, a local staple of fried rice topped with a fried egg, stealing the show for me. It’s a dish that encapsulates the island’s vibrant flavors, especially when requested with the local level of spice—a must for the authentic experience. Bali in the low season unfolds like a well-kept secret, revealing quieter beaches, less crowded temples, and an atmosphere that invites deeper connection and relaxation. My journey here has been a testament to the joys of low-season travel, from serene sunset viewings on a beach far from the madding crowd to the powerful waves that beckon surfers to its shores. As my Balinese escapade draws to a close, I’m left with a profound sense of gratitude and a renewed love for this island. Bali, with its unmatched hospitality, stunning landscapes, and vibrant culture, remains a budget-friendly jewel in Southeast Asia’s crown. This trip has rekindled my desire to return, perhaps next time with my family, to once again immerse ourselves in the slow, enriching rhythm of Balinese life. So, if you’re pondering your next travel destination, consider Bali during its quieter months. It’s a choice that offers not just a respite from the crowds but a gateway to a more authentic and memorable experience. Until we meet again on another low-season adventure, wherever you are, may your days be filled with curiosity and wonder. Thank you for joining me on this journey through the heart of Bali, a place that, even in its quietest moments, sings a captivating song of beauty, culture, and connection.

Ged Ged Brown,

CEO, Low Season Travellor Lap Pool Young woman with traditional face paint and foliage headdress in the Ethiopian Suri tribe style

Low Low Season Season Traveller Traveller

I’m currently ensconced in a villa just outside Seminyak, a decision I pat myself on the back for daily. This architectural marvel, born from the creative genius of Vincent, a French architect, is a haven of tranquility amidst nature’s bounty. Surrounded by tropical flora, the villa offers a symphony of birdsong, gecko calls, and the gentle murmur of a nearby creek. It’s an open-plan living testament to embracing the natural world, complete with a 25m lap pool that’s become my daily respite.

Featured Destination: Québec

QUÉBEC A sense of Europe meets the splendour of nature

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: March-May, November

Featured Destination: Québec

By Claire French

Don’t underestimate the expanse of Québec. It is huge, stretching from the northern states of the US to well into the Arctic Circle, and is more than six times the size of the UK. A wild and wonderful adventure-land of rivers and lakes (10% of the land is covered by freshwater), mountains, villages and cosmopolitan city life. Much depends on how long you have to play, but most visitors base their Québecan odyssey in the south of the province. It’s here, between the buzzing centres of Montreal and Québec City,

along the majestic St Lawrence River that the majority of the population live. Take a low season road trip from the unspoiled beauty of the Pontiac region of the Outaouais, through national parks and the fascinating Eastern Townships, and onto the Gaspé Peninsula where the St Lawrence becomes sea-like mass before emptying its 1200km bulk into the chilly North Atlantic. In whichever of the four seasons you enjoy Québec you’ll find extraordinary landscapes, wildlife, adrenaline kicks and an abundance of local products, from cheese to wine to maple syrup. The most popular times are summer which brings warm weather, and winter with its festivals and snow-sports. As a low season traveller however you have the opportunity to really make this magnificent place your own. Our preferred times to visit are early spring (midMarch until the end of May) or late fall (November) before the real cold of winter sets in. In these periods revel in the tranquil cocooning aspect, travelling with no hurry to get anywhere, indulging in luxury spas, taking relaxing walks in the beautiful outdoors. Admire the power of nature as the seasons transition, something which endlessly fascinates French Canadians, who seem to talk about the weather even more than the British.

Low Season Traveller

Talk to Québecers about Canada and they’ll tell you it’s a place they might go some day. In fact the people of this vast and beautiful province consider themselves very much Québecois first and Canadian a distant second. French settlers, arriving some 400 years ago, firmly established themselves in what became known as New France. Despite challenges from British and later American forces, the French legacy was the one that stuck, seeping deep into language and lifestyle throughout the province. Indigenous culture preceded long long before of course, and the First Nations are increasingly involved in sharing their traditions, creating a wonderfully unique Québec heritage of which locals are fiercely proud.

Frontenac Castle, Québec City

Featured Destination: Québec Remember low season weather can be a surprise, ranging from sub-zero Celsius to mid-teens. It can be as warm as a summer day or as cold as winter and that’s all part of the adventure! Pack for all eventualities and be prepared for change. A misty spring morning walk through pine forests can transform into a clear and sunny afternoon. In autumn, a floor of multi-coloured leaves underfoot, you can climb a mountain and gaze for miles across a stunning landscape of rivers and lakes; or from your cosy cottage, witness the tremendous power of the St Lawrence as it bursts its banks. Québec City The 3 million strong economic and commercial hub of Montreal is an attraction all of its own, but for low season romance, we really recommend checking out the far smaller provincial capital Québec City. The UNESCO World Heritage old town feels ultra European, with horse-drawn carriages, French-style architecture and cobbled streets. There’s a sense of another world here and peak season sees the centre packed with tourists strolling the charming upper and lower towns, and the fortifications which make it North America’s only walled city north of Mexico. That’s why we love the low season when we can explore the historic sites and browse boutiques and galleries in relative peace. In addition there are a whole host of artistic, cultural and gastronomic activities to escape into when the weather dictates, like the marvellous Huron-Wendat Museum where you can learn about indigenous heritage and make bannock over a fire. On the other hand, the Plains of Abraham, the city’s sprawling 103 hectare battlefield-park, offers a year round space to get outdoors, with military remnants and tremendous views. The Great Outdoors Québecois are very much used to extremes of weather so don’t shy away from year round adrenaline fueled fun in one of the 30 national parks or 15 nature reserves. With the right clothing, hiking is wonderful whatever the weather. In fact we absolutely love being in Québec to embrace the locals’ excitement at renewal when the first buds of spring emerge from a blanket of snow. And donning crampons to take a hike in autumn’s first snow fall is one of the year’s most iconic moments. A favourite trek close to Québec City takes you to Montmorency Falls, a wonderfully powerful waterfall, taller than Niagara and in full flow in low season. Further afield, national parks remain accessible year round with many adapting the available activities for the low season, with top choices including quad biking in Appalachian Regional Park, or spending the night in a wolf cabin in Omega Park, where wolves can wander right up the huge windows.

Low Season Traveller

TOP EXPERIENCES

Rent a Chalet at Vieux Loup de Mer Take a cosy low season retreat in a rustic cottage along the beautiful St Lawrence River. Shop for local artisan crafts in the villages and explore Bic National Park in the stunning Bas-Saint-Laurent region, home to large populations of harbour seals and grey seals among the river’s many coves.

Plan a Wellness Holiday Low season sees the best prices on holistic spa packages. You’ll find amazing offers on multi-night breaks, or make it a full day indulgence, warming up with thermal springs and saunas. Check out historic Monastère des Augustines in Québec City, the site of a 17th century monastic hospital. Festival des Sucres The Sugar Festival has been going since 1958 in a maple grove in Saint-Pierre-Baptiste. Each spring the forest comes alive with cozy fireplaces, traditional country music and dancing celebrating the Québecois cultural creation of maple taffy on snow, amidst old-fashioned family fun.

Québec’s famous poutine, made with grilled chicken, french fries, cheese curd and gravy

FOOD & DRINK Cuisine, Cinema & Confidences A unique gastronomic festival in Baie-St-Paul. Each November for a few days, special venues like Hotel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix and the Museum of Contemporary Art Baie-St-Paul offer viewings of a dozen films, exquisite meals, cooking workshops, and talks from chefs and culinary celebs. Roadside Poutine Canada’s famous dish, originating from Québec. Highly calorific and strangely addictive, French fries are topped with cheese curds and thick gravy. It is best eaten at a neighbourhood canteen. You will be warmly welcomed and if it’s still open in low season, it means locals eat there all the time. Québec Sugar Shacks Low season April is the very best time to enjoy these traditional rustic venues as early spring offers perfect conditions to make maple taffy. Learn about the history of sugar making and enjoy a feast of pea soup, meat pie, beans, crepes and maple syrup accompanied by authentic Québecois music.

Autumn hiking at Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Riviere-Malbaie National Park (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Québec

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Québec

Lake Ouimet near Mont Tremblant, Québec

Featured Destination: Québec

INSIDER TIPS • If you have an image that North Americans eat badly, you are in for a surprise. Québec is proud to have artisans who produce quality local cheese, meat, seafood, wine, cider; and chefs know how to highlight a gastronomy full of flavours! Try a tourtière pie made with wild moose or deer.

• The Frenchness of Québec often takes visitors by surprise and many feel a little confused by finding road signs, maps and shop names all in French. Don’t be put off though as locals usually speak English as well, but please practise a little French in greetings as this is seen as a sign of respect.

• Don’t overload your schedule with activities, but rather leave yourself time to properly connect with the experience and with the people you meet, perhaps over a microbrewery beer. Low season is the time to take things slowly and let the day unfold depending on the weather and your mood.

GOOD TO KNOW • Québec Table Gourmande Festival returns to Québec City annually in November offering a delicious range table d’hôte menus at discounted set prices for brunch, lunch and dinner. Foodie fun at more than 50 top restaurants. Or make sure to book a table at MTLàTABLE, Montréal’s own version.

• Québec’s Eastern Townships are the setting for Louise Penny’s ‘Three Pines’ detective novels featuring Chief Inspector Armand Gamache. In real life, as in fiction, the villages are filled with colourful characters and beautiful scenery. Have a read or catch the popular TV series starring Alfred Molina.

• Go in search of the best Québec crafts in

Low Season Traveller

November. At this time markets and fairs are crammed with beautiful locally made gifts and handicrafts demonstrating the passion and creativity of their makers. From maple syrup to First Nation dreamcatchers, that’s your Christmas shopping sorted.

Low Season Traveller

No Reservations Needed

EXPLORING THE CULINARY DELIGHTS OF LOW SEASON GOA

Goa promises a wealth of culinary experiences. But for many, its peak season is also synonymous with understaffed eateries, overpriced menus, and throngs of visitors jostling to take beachfront selfies. Some go viral on Instagram and become so hyped that waiting in hour-long queues this time of the year feels like a norm. By Katha Nauriyal

Hoping for a respite from the heaving crowds, while still savouring the region’s inimitable bustle, contributor Katha Nauriyal flies to Goa before the holiday rush. She shares her experience of checking out some of the state’s most highly sought-after restaurants and hotels without the fuss. Vaayu Kula & Prana, Mandrem I’m spending my initial days in a tranquil coastal fishing village in Mandrem. It’s tucked away in North Goa, which is ironically famous for its throbbing party scene. Finding a laid back, intimate getaway here is often tricky, but with a stay at Vaayu Kula, I’m able to find solace even in the midst of the hustle. At this charming family-owned beachfront boutique hotel, my itinerary includes taking early-morning dips in the ocean, followed by afternoon naps under large parasols.

Bawri Butter Chicken at Bawri, Goa

Every now and then, I head to their tastefully-designed restaurant called Prana Mandrem for its decadent meals and picturesque sea views. “I’d say this time of the year (October) is one of the best seasons. It’s post-monsoon, so there are waves if you like to surf, with greenery everywhere. Plus, it’s before the peak season; there’s a new energy. Everyone’s gearing up for the holidays with just the right amount of crowd,” shares CoFounder Jill, as I chat with her over a refreshing bowl of chia smoothie. Despite its popularity, the restaurant is able to preserve its intimate atmosphere, and the absence of noise feels just right. They serve a vegan fare that’s as delicious as its meaty counterpart. While I dig into my Spicy Beef Tataki and Vegan Taco, a couple of rescue dogs around the property keep me entertained. Mowgli, one of the canine companions, is frolicking in the waters alongside visitors, while a three-legged pup is playfully chasing a baby lizard on the beach.

Low Season Traveller

Luckily, the quieter months offer ample space to unwind and slow down even in this party capital. You can enjoy gloriously lazy vacations and eat mindfully at popular hangout joints.

No Reservations Needed

Interior of Bawri, Goa “At Prana Mandrem we serve classic surfer food with wholesome portions to minimise waste. We even use the same fish in various recipes to prevent wastage. Biodegradable straws and water stations are available to refill glass bottles and cut down on plastic consumption,” she adds. Vaayu Kula is among the few properties in the area that still have special access for local villagers to use the beach, and a discreet entrance that helps avoid commercial crowds.

Low Season Traveller

The decor is inspired by the coastal communities of India, and the whole place is dotted with antiques from around the country. Its tropical ambiance is accentuated by designs from Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Mexico and the Konkan belt of India.

After a rejuvenating day, I’m ready to retire to my bedroom, which is both spacious and sumptuous. Soothing colour palettes, high ceilings and comfy furnishings are all bathed in natural light. Outside, a private sitting area offers breezy vistas of the beach. “The wooden beams used for the roofs of the rooms were harvested from trees that were uprooted during the 2021 cyclone in Goa. Wherever possible, we try to use antique furniture and upcycled wood in our building and its decor to reduce the need for fresh-cut trees,” Jill tells me.

Vaayu Kula also hosts facilities for yoga, watersports, surfing and wellness-focused activities. “We’re a community of surfers, and when the ocean is a part of your lifestyle, you tend to care more about marine life and the environment in general. For instance, during off-season, when the company appointed by the Department of Tourism to clean the beaches is not working, we hold daily beach clean-ups in front of our hotel.” Slow Tide, Anjuna Anjuna Beach, also in the north, is among the most touristy districts of Goa. It’s known for trance parties, music festivals and hipster bars that crowd its shores. Luckily, I’m able to sit back with my Martini and uninterruptedly watch the waves breaking — a sight that may have been rare during the peak season. I’m at Slow Tide for a laid-back sundowner, a scenic restaurant that pays homage to Anjuna’s hippie heritage. Its bohemian, shack-like interiors go well with the in-house cocktails like Amsterdam Dave (named after a hippie who called Anjuna his home in the 70s) and Acid Erik (a notorious drug dealer). It has large al-fresco seating areas, adorned with literature and artsy elements that perfectly recapture the mantra of music, dance and celebrating life.

No Reservations Needed I’ve found myself a quiet corner at its sea-facing terrace bar. While away from the masses, I’m still able to bask in the teeming energy all around. The restaurant’s multi-level open spaces are a great spot for me to sit back and observe visitors posing against the stunning sunsets of the beach — all while I eat my weight! The Red Snapper Crudo, Jaffna Crab and Mangalorean Mit Mirsang Masala Fish Cake taste especially fresh this season. The creamy Jack’s Burrata is the cherry on top. “While winter is of course the peak time in Goa, I personally enjoy the monsoons here. In fact, if you stand on the deck of the restaurant, you’re able to feel the might of the sea and watch the waves swell dramatically,” one of the patrons who’s also a regular customer of the restaurant points out. “Some of the walls have moss growing on them, so you can almost witness parts of the architecture change with the seasons.”

Jaffna Crab at Slow Tide, Goa

Amsterdam Dave cocktail at Slow Tide, Goa

Since becoming one of the trendiest restaurants on social media, it’s recommended to make reservations as far in advance as possible. In my case, however, I’m swiftly escorted in without having to wait in line. “You’re visiting at the right time. We just had a busy long weekend and will soon begin prepping for Diwali celebrations next month,” a staff member explains. As it turns out, Bawri totally lives up to its reputation. It’s a breath of fresh air with the ideal setting to savour its special menu of slow-cooked recipes. Koi ponds, macrame

Coffee Creme Caramel at Jamun, Goa

Low Season Traveller

Bawri, Assagao Once a quaint hamlet, overshadowed by the more touristy parts, Assagao has evolved into the latest hotbed of Goa. Travellers flock in for its swanky bars and Insta-worthy dining establishments with Bawri being the latest entrant to the scene.

Low Season Traveller

No Reservations Needed

Modern bar and deck of Slow Tide, Goa

No Reservations Needed hangings, potted plants and rattan chairs elevate your dining experience. Fortunately, it also has the right number of diners, with enough space for me to absorb the inviting ambiance. The pièce de résistance is the floating cabana that I’ve seen all over social media. I quickly call dibs on it, which may not have been possible during the holiday season. The menu at Bawri features heirloom recipes with indigenous ingredients and local spices. Even as I binge on the flavourful Thecha Potatoes and Mutton Nihari, the whole place is so aesthetically done that I can’t help leaving my meals in between to capture it on my phone. The Slow-Cooked Shank and Bawri Butter Chicken are perfect comfort foods on this slightly nippy evening. If you’re also visiting during this time of the year, be sure to order the seasonal white carrot halwa for a delightful final touch. Jamun, Assagao Lovingly resorted in an age-soaked Portuguese villa, also in Assagao, Jamun remains ever-popular no matter what time of the year. You can settle down for an al-fresco dining experience under a canopy of stars. Or, head indoors for the glowy port-bottle chandelier and woven cane bar counter. Either way, I can spot poppy purple colours of the Jamun fruit everywhere — from walls to upholstery, to even on the sleeves of the servers. The menu bursts with flavourful innovations. There are Goan spices infused in recipes from all around the country. However, the Jamun Ras Mocktail (Jamun puree with chaat masala), Jamun Sorbet, and Filter Coffee Ice Cream are among the first of the many unique dishes that catch my eye. The Jamun Sour, a tarty Indian twist to the classic Whiskey Sour, is the star of the show. But the Tamarind Margarita, Tulsi and Kokum Panna are equally refreshing summer drinks in case you’re visiting then. From March to May, while considered the hottest months, you can still experience the feni (local liquor made of cashew or coconut) harvesting season across the state. Jamun also boasts a selection of feni, including Cuzalo Cashew and Ani Ek Insused Feni.

The quieter months of Goa have a taste of their own. From dining and nightlife to the unspoilt ocean, all reveal a side of the region that’s often overshadowed.

Low Season Traveller

The Pan-fried Sea Crabs, Pork Roast, Til Ke Aloo, and fragrant Mutton Biryani are all worth the visit. Plus, the restaurant offers a variety of fresh local catch, including pomfret and tiger prawns. So make sure to check with the staff for seasonal specials while making your reservation.

Featured Destination: Morocco

MOROCCO Experience the exotic magic of North Africa just 8 miles from Europe

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: November-February

Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco

Featured Destination: Morocco

By Claire French Spring and autumn are the popular periods to experience this diverse region. Indeed the weather then is good for visiting a combination of beaches, desert, mountains and cities. However, summer and winter low season offer fabulous deals and you’ll be mingling with locals rather than the tourist crowds. Take into account also the movable timing of Eid and Ramadan, which can also be considered low season as Moroccans will be fasting from sunrise to sunset. So while the days are subdued, the nights are full of energy with eating, shopping and socialising. It can be a really fascinating time to visit and learn more about important Islamic traditions.

Low Season Traveller

A three hour flight from dreary northern Europe and there you are… in another world. You’ve barely had time for a panini and a flick through your guide book, before you’re unpacking your weekend bag in a beautifully decorated room overlooking the fountains and flowers of your traditional riad courtyard. Exquisite though the delicate arches and mosaic tiles are, you don’t stay long for there is exploring to be done. Wander the souks among friendly locals draped in djellabas with the sounds of French, Arabic and many dialects ringing in your ears. Take in the distinct aroma of herbs and spices mixing with the ubiquitous scent of mint tea as you haggle over the price of that gorgeous lantern you’ve spotted.

Featured Destination: Morocco Historic Cities an area of teetering boulders, granite kopjes and wooded Low season December tothe February is a preserved great time rock to valleys, is where some of most well explore Morocco’s UNESCO site filled centres without paintings in Africa are located. They are said to date back at the Locals might be well but visitors will leastheat. 13,000 years. Check outwrapped the ruins up of Khami and Great enjoy mild temperatures of up to 18-20°C without the Zimbabwe, built by the Bantu civilization of the Shona crowds, whilethe costs, reasonable, are lowerhistory than of people from 11thalways century. The long artisanal ever. Marrakesh is perhaps the best known with its famed the Shona has developed from architectural to artistic and medina, ornate 19th century Bahia Palace, and fascinating is showcased in the stunning Chapungu Sculpture Park on museum of Yves Saint Laurent. Consider other cities, the outskirts of the capital Harare. like Fes, Morocco’s ancient imperial capital and centre of arts andWildlife culture; Experiences Tangier with its Hercules Caves, cliff top Unique views and nearby street art festival; or charming More remote and summer pristine than safaris elsewhere, Chefchaouen where the maze of streets are awash Zimbabwe has excellent opportunities for game viewing with blue. in small, personal and exclusive camps with professional guides dedicated to lifelong training and conservation. The AtlasNational Mountains Hwange Park is the big draw, just 2 to 3 hours Winter trekking in this mountain and from Victoria Falls. It’s astunning vast 15,000sq kmrange of protected Toubkal National Park is possible with the right choice land with good populations of buffalo, elephant, lion, of route and altitude. Take localhas advice youmost can enjoy cheetah and leopard. It also someand of the diverse snowy peaks and stunning wild valleys. You can ski at birds in the world, with nearly 700 species beingeven recorded, the resort in the village of Oukaimeden, where the snow and especially prevalent in the low season from November. covered slopes glisten against blue skies, only 50black miles Matobo has significant populations of white and from Marrakesh. At the other end of the scale, if you do rhino, and it is possible to take a guide to track these on travel in the hot low summer season, leave the steaming foot. Lesser known, more remote parks offer amazingly urban and you’ll findplains, the Atlas Mountains much diversecentres, landscapes of flood grasslands, hidden cooler. Many luxury retreats, local homestays and trekking valleys and lush vegetation. Hardy adventurers visiting companies function throughout the year and it is possible Matusadona National Park, the Eastern Highlands, to camp overnight for a chance to really connect Chizarira and Gonarezhou National Parks will bewith richly nature. For serious walkers, summer is ideal to trek the high rewarded, but do check as many camps, particularly around passes as it’s the only time the snow melts enough to allow Mana Pools close during the wettest part of the year. access to remote routes and isolated villages. Summer Fun on the Sand Looking for a beach holiday with a twist? Imagine the blue seas and sandy bays of your Mediterranean dreams but with none of the crowds found on the coast of France, Spain, or Italy. In the northern region, around Tangier and Tetaoun you’ll find luxury ocean front resorts with uncrowded private beaches, while if you’re into a more local scene, head for Agadir and the south were you’ll find a mix of Moroccans and tourists enjoying the wilder Atlantic coast. Oualidia, Essaouira, and Taghazout are some of our favourite picks.

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TOP EXPERIENCES

Traditional Moroccan tagine and spices Learn to Cook like a Moroccan Find your favourite cooking class. Many include a souk visit and take place within a traditional riad courtyard. You’ll learn to make delicious lamb tagine, chicken or fish pastilla and sweet pastry, all accompanied by mint tea.

FOOD & DRINK Fresh Produce & Juice In the summer months you’ll find incredible berries, juicy stone fruits, ripe avocados, and prickly pear cactus fruits. The watermelons grown in the south are some of the biggest and juiciest you’ll find anywhere in the world.

Ftour with a local family During Ramadan, you may be lucky enough to be invited to join a family for their sunset meal. Do go if you get the chance. It’s a great experience and you’ll try special foods like harrira soup and chebekia cookies.

Al Fassia, Marrakech Run by local women, Al Fassia now has 2 restaurants in different parts of the city, both with a great atmosphere, good service and exceptional menu. The roasted lamb is their signature dish. Book in advance and arrive hungry.

Gnaoua World Music Festival Annually at the end of June Essaouira is totally transformed from sleepy coastal city to cosmopolitan artistic hub. Gnaoua music is so catchy, has its roots in Sufi Islam and is famous for its percussion, chants and poetic lyrics.

Fresh Seafood on the Beach Eat on the edge of the ocean, with amazing views and beautiful sunsets. Crabs, oysters, lobster, prawns, monkfish and many more freshly grilled. Favourites are La Coupole in Essaouira or La Plage de la Sultana in Oualidia.

The blue city of Chefchaouen, Morocco (Right)

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Featured Destination: Morocco

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Morocco

Todgha Gorge, Atlas Mountains

Featured Destination: Morocco

INSIDER TIPS • If you’re in the cities during the low summer season, plan to do your exploring in the morning and again in the evening. Save the afternoons for lounging around the pool or the shade of a tree in the interior courtyard of your riad.

• Go with an open mind and remember that you are a visitor. Don’t try and impose your own cultural norms - in the souks people may bump and jostle you, or worse, try to serve you culinary delights like snail soup and sheep’s head.

• A good choice for an authentic buy is local rose oil. It takes 4 tons of roses to make 1 litre of the oil. Alternatively, leather goods are good value. You can visit the tanneries where leather is produce but be warned, the rose oil smells better.

GOOD TO KNOW • The Sahara sees 50°C in the summer, and is freezing in the winter. So while a low season desert experience is possible, you’ll be restricted. Erg Chebbi remains an option but leave the more remote dunes at Erg Chigaga.

• Hands should be washed before and after dining. If a jug isn’t brought for this purpose, go to the washbasin nearby. Only use your right hand to eat; and in a Moroccan home, expect to sit at a low table on a cushion on the floor.

• Ourzazate is home to the world’s largest film

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studio and is open for tours so long as filming is not taking place. See the desert locations used in ‘Lawrence of Arabia’, ‘Black Hawk Down’, ‘Gladiator’, ‘Star Wars’ and ‘The Mummy’.

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Winter in Tromsø, Norway

Featured Winter Destination: in Tromsø, Zimbabwe Norway

Lying well within the Arctic Circle, the city of Tromsø in northern Norway is home to a plethora of the world’s most northerly attractions. The city was a perfect choice for a recent trip to celebrate my 30th birthday, offering once-in-a-lifetime winter experiences within easy reach from most European destinations, alongside superb city-centre culture and gastronomy. By Ryan Maley

Norway is notoriously an expensive country to visit, and whilst the price of some things, particularly alcoholic drinks, can be a bit steep, it was certainly not as bad as we were expecting. Whether a sad indictment of the current economic situation in the UK or an unfair stereotype of Norway, we didn’t find the prices too dissimilar to what we pay at home, with evening meals including drinks costing around £50 per couple and attraction tickets costing around £15-£20 per person. Getting to Tromsø Getting to Tromsø is surprisingly simple, with many direct flights operating from European cities such as London, Munich, Berlin, Amsterdam, and Paris. There are also several daily flights from Oslo which offer connections from plenty of other destinations around Europe, with the flight time just under 2 hours from Oslo to Tromsø. There are no direct train links to Tromsø, but there are seasonal bus routes that operate from around both Norway and Sweden. Things to do in Tromsø Alongside memorable winter excursions in and around Tromsø, you can also appreciate great food and drink in the city, learn about the history and heritage of those who live in the Arctic Circle, and enjoy fantastic encounters with nature. The city is compact and walkable, meaning many of the attractions can be found on foot, whilst the majority

of excursions have pick-up points from within the citycentre. Here are a few of the best things you can do in Tromsø during winter. Northern Lights Experiences Undoubtedly, one of the most popular reasons for visiting Tromsø is to catch the elusive northern lights, and the winter months offer the best opportunities to see them, when the skies are darker and there are fewer daylight hours. Whilst sightings can never be guaranteed, Tromsø’s location in the Arctic Circle offers one of the best locations to view the northern lights, as the solar activity required for the phenomena is at its most intense closer to the North Pole. There are several options for chasing the northern lights in Tromsø, from private tours to cruises. Some visitors opt to hire their own car, however unless you’re familiar with the roads in and around Tromsø and confident driving in icy conditions I wouldn’t recommend it, as the rural roads can become difficult and you risk becoming stranded in subzero temperatures. Instead, opt for one of the many group or private guided tours, where professional tour guides and drivers can safely navigate you to the best spots on a given night to view the northern lights, offering advice and insight along the way. Tours generally last several hours and often include appropriate warm gear, food, drinks, and photo opportunities. The best chances of seeing the northern lights are outside of the city, where there is minimal light pollution. You can also choose other evening or night experiences which can offer the opportunity to view the northern lights, including whale watching or husky experiences, where you’ll make plenty of memories even if you don’t catch the lights.

(Left) The Arctic Cathedral with Tromsø’s landscape in the background

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The city’s proximity to the North Pole results in the phenomena of the Polar Night. Between mid-November and January, the sun does not rise in the city, and temperatures average between 0°C and -5°C. However, Tromsø is anything but uninviting in this time, where the city’s many lights reflect in the Norwegian sea, and cafés, wine bars, and restaurants provide warm havens for those braving the snow-covered streets.

Winter in Tromsø, Norway Arctic Cathedral The city’s most iconic landmark is Tromsø’s Arctic Cathedral. Located at the end of Tromsø Bridge, the church was constructed in 1965 and features a huge stained glass window on the eastern side, whilst the western entrance has a large glass façade with a cross that’s magnificently illuminated during Tromsø’s dark nights. Check out their website for a calendar of concerts and events at the Arctic Cathedral, or simply admire the architecture that provides a wonderful focal point for photographs of the city: www.ishavskatedralen.no.

Meeting the huskies at Tromsø Villmarkssenter Husky Experiences at Tromsø Villmarkssenter To view the northern lights during our trip, we chose to visit Tromsø Villmarkssenter, home to 200 husky dogs and offering a range of experiences in both summer and winter. Launching back in 1988 when founder Tove moved back to Tromsø with just two husky dogs, the centre has now grown in size to includes husky and puppy yards; 3 lavvos, which are traditional Sami tents; a space for conference and events; sleeping pods; a shop; northern lights terrace and more. Tove and her family are highly knowledgeable in all aspects of husky racing, and Tove and her son Torkil race every year in Finnmarksløpet - the longest dogsledding race in Europe at a distance of 1200km.

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Tromsø Villmarkssenter offers a range of experiences, from puppy training and aurora visits to dog sledding and multi-day expeditions, with pickup and dropoff included from the city centre. On our visit we opted for the aurora experience, where we spent time with the huskies and puppies in the dog yard, enjoyed traditional cod stew and coffee inside one of the lavvos at tables surrounding an open fire, and were lucky enough to spend the evening watching the northern lights dancing across the sky above us. Book your visit: www.villmarkssenter.no.

Whale Watching Between the months of November and January, orca and humpback whales head to the area of Skjervøy, north of Norway, in the search for herring. During this time, plenty of providers offer excursions by boat in the hope of catching a glimpse of the magnificent mammals. Most trips will last the full day, with either car transport to Skjervøy or by boat from Tromsø. Do your research to ensure that the trip provider respects the natural habitat of the whales and conducts the trip in a sustainable way. Don’t worry if you don’t spot the whales, the fantastic landscapes you’ll experience in the north of Norway should be worth the money alone!

Tromsø’s Arctic Cathedral Fjellheisen Cable Car Whisking visitors 420m above sea level up Mount Storsteinen in just 4 minutes, Fjellheisen Cable Car offers pretty much unrivalled views of Tromsø. At the top you can explore the viewpoints above the city, hike the snow-covered trails, enjoy food and drink at the Fjellstua Restaurant, or scan the skies for the elusive northern lights. Return tickets start at 415 NOK for adults and 200 NOK for children: www.fjellheisen.no. Museums As a university city, Tromsø has its fair share of museums for those looking to escape the cold and learn about the region’s cultures and traditions. The Arctic University Museum of Norway showcases northern nature, Sami culture, and the wonder of the northern lights: www.en.uit. no/tmu/omoss. At the Perspektivet Museum, explore changing exhibitions of stories from Tromsø and around the world with a focus on photography and artistic expression: www.perspektivet.no. Nordnorsk Kunstmuseum is a visual arts museum containing over 2,225 works by artists from the 17th century to the present day, and serves the regions of Troms, Finnmark, Nordland, and Svalbard: www.nnkm.no. The Polar Museum takes you behind the scenes of over 300 years of Arctic expeditions, though some of the exhibits depict quite graphic scenes of animal hunting which may be distressing: www.en.uit. no/tmu/polarmuseet. In Norway’s only Troll Museum, get acquainted with Norwegian fairytales and folklore, which forms an important part of Nordic culture: www.trollmuseum.no.

Winter in Tromsø, Norway Polaria Polaria, located in a stunning building constructed to depict ice floes washing ashore Tromsø, is the world’s most northerly aquarium. Featuring a panoramic cinema and several aquariums that house only northern species, the aquarium aims to teach all about Arctic marine life. The stars of the show are undoubtedly the Arctic seals from Svalbard, Bella and Mai San, and the harbour seals Loffen and Lyra with their baby Leo. Visitors can enjoy the seals from an underwater glass tunnel, or watch them feed and play whilst staff share the important work undertaken in caring for the marine mammals. Find out more: www.polaria.no. Vulkana Spa Located on a renovated 1950s deep sea fishing boat in Tromsø’s harbour, Vulkana is an authentic Scandinavian spa experience in the heart of the city. With a Turkish hammam, traditional wood-fired sauna with windows, and a woodfired hot tub on deck, you can enjoy fantastic views of both the harbour and the surrounding fjords whilst on a spa cruise. Visit: www.vulkana.no. Food and Drink in Tromsø Alongside the Arctic adventures available on Tromsø’s doorstep, the city centre has plenty of restaurants, bars, and cafés to enjoy. The cold, clear waters that surround Norway result in fish being a staple on many menus, and Fiskekompaniet, on Tromsø’s harbour, is one of the best fine dining options for seafood in the city. For tasty burgers and beers with cosy, rustic surroundings, both Egon and Hukken Brygg are located on the main Storgata shopping street. In the centre of the town you’re likely to find queues outside Raketten Bar & Pølse, the self-proclaimed tiniest bar in the universe. The kiosk, opened in 1911 by 18-year-old Margit Løkke, is fully-licensed and specialises in mulled wine and hot dogs (including reindeer, pork, and vegan options) which you can enjoy on their wooden terrace.

Clarion Hotel’s rooftop bar is available for non-guests, serving a range of cocktails and offering a terrace with fantastic views across the city. Don’t worry if it’s cold, you can take your drinks at the indoor bar and just pop outside for the views, though check opening times as the bar isn’t open all week. To watch sports, there’s nowhere better in the city than Fun Pub Tromsø, a spacious bar with plenty of screens, booths, and beers, including from Tromso’s own Mack brewery. Fun Pub also offers karaoke, two large shuffleboard tables, and regular DJs. Agenturet Øl og Vinbar offers a good range of wines, along with craft beers and cocktails in a relaxed atmosphere, and is a great spot to start or end an evening.

Inside the lavvo at Tromsø Villmarkssenter What to Pack There’s a thin line (or thermal layer) between a once-ina-lifetime adventure and a poor experience in Tromsø, and that is the gear that you pack. Though often not as cold as you would expect of its northerly location, winter averages are still in single-digit minuses, the streets of the city can be icy, and any tours or excursions are likely to take you out for several hours in cold and windy conditions. Make sure you pack a good pair of sturdy walking boots, and don’t be afraid to wear them when just exploring the city centre. Thick socks and a thermal base layer along with layered fleeces and jackets, a waterproof and windproof coat, and a warm hat and gloves should mean you can make the most of your trip to this wonderful part of the world.

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There are also plenty of coffee shops frequented by locals and visitors alike, including Risø Kaffebar with its focus on high-quality coffee, Backstube with a huge selection of pastries, and Kaffebønna with its window seating and views of the harbour. Our favourite of all had to be Smørtorget, an eclectic homely café filled with mismatched and unique furniture and interesting bric-a-brac.

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Winter in Tromsø, Norway

Friends sat overlooking Tromsø’s dramatic landscape

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Winter in Tromsø, Norway

Featured Destination: São Tomé and Príncipe

SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE A unique fusion of Europe and Africa in an overlooked biodiverse archipelago

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Low Season: March-May, October-November

33 Old colonial buildings, São Tomé and Príncipe

Featured Destination: São Tomé and Príncipe

By Claire French

These days are a great time to visit the smallest Portuguese-speaking nation on Earth. It’s stable and democratic and TAP Airlines makes the 6 hour

flight regularly out of Lisbon with connections from throughout Europe. While much of the tiny nation remains an untouched natural paradise, former roças and colonial buildings have been transformed into beautiful accommodation in the form of boutique hotels, luxury lodges and charming guest houses with an emphasis on ecotourism, serving up delicious African specialities, fresh fish, tropical fruits, and organic herbs and veggies. São Tomé and Príncipe’s position on the Equator means lovely daytime temperatures of up to 30°C year round. The low season hits when the rains come – the long rains are March-May and the short rains October-November. Come at this time, avoiding Easter, and you’ll find fewer tourists, lusher vegetation, and bargain rates for superb accommodation. During the rains showers are interspersed with dry weather, it’s rarely stormy, and it’s at this time you’ll discover the most authentic, truest essence of these islands.

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Step into a lost world, a land where remnants of the past meet pristine beaches and emerald seas. This island nation adrift in the West African Gulf of Guinea sees only 13,000 annual visitors, and hopes to welcome many more as infrastructures strengthen in line with responsible tourism iniatives, and jobs are created to support a local population surviving on fishing and agriculture. The twin islands of São Tomé and Príncipe were uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century. These were soon developed into successful centres for sugar, cocoa and coffee plantations or roças thanks to their rich volcanic soil and tropical equatorial climate. Peaceful independence came in 1974, leaving splendid colonial architecture to crumble and the islands to be, to a large extent, forgotten.

Featured Destination: São Tomé and Príncipe São Tomé At 330sq miles, it’s the larger and more developed of the two isles, and home to a population of 200,000. The small capital of the same name lies in the north of the island, a pretty place with old churches, plazas and cobbled streets. You’re never far from the coast, beautiful ocean and sandy beaches, where you can spot dolphins year-round. 30 minutes from town, lies Obo National Park, with excellent opportunities to get into nature on the many hiking circuits. Enjoy views of the 663m needle-shaped Pico Cão Grande (Great Dog Peak), a solid column of magma left after a volcano eroded away. Plan your route according to duration and ability and include overnight stays at old plantations roças. Príncipe Rather smaller, Príncipe is much more off-the-beaten track, heavily forested and tiny at just 50sq miles and a 7000 population. The 87 mile journey is best covered by a 35 minute flight from São Tomé. All of Príncipe is a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, committed to sustainable development, and a highlight is taking a boat trip past the Bais das Agulhas (Bay of Spires) to see its crazy phonolite towers. You can take a tour with a local guide getting to know the island’s culture, rural communities, colourful harbours and outstanding scenery. Savour the aromas of herbs and medicinal plants, taste the local jams, chocolate, grilled fish, and breadfruit.

TOP EXPERIENCES Turtle Tour Sea turtles nest, lay eggs and hatch from November to March each year. On this fascinating experience, you’ll join in the monitoring of the female as they come ashore about to lay their eggs on the beaches of Príncipe and learn about the conservation of this sadly threatened species. Bird Watching Discover São Tomé and Príncipe’s extraordinary birds, with their distinctive sounds and colours. Specialists have sighted over 143 species, more than 30 of which are endemic, including the world’s smallest ibis and the giant sunbird, meaning it outranks the Galapagos in volume and diversity.

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Hiking Trails A popular route is the 5 hour round trip to Lagoa Amelia, while the climb at Pico de São Tomé takes 2 days and good physical fitness. On Príncipe, the raw and wild biosphere trails are ideal for scratching under the surface of the destination, disturbed only by rustling leaves and birdsong.

Pico Cão Grande, São Tomé

FOOD & DRINK Fish Calulu Local favourite, this tasty fish stew is available everywhere and includes onions, okra, tomatoes, aubergine and fresh herbs. Traditionally, made with fish or prawns, it can also be made with chicken, and is usually accompanied with rice or cassava. Vinho de Palma It has to be tried. This alcoholic beverage is made from juice from the sap of palm and coconut trees. Initially sweet it is allowed to ferment and become bitter. As with all local moonshine, be aware that the alcohol content can vary considerably. Dark Chocolate The Chocolate Islands were once the world’s largest producer of chocolate. Thanks to chocolatiers like Italian Claudio Corallo the industry is once more gaining momentum. Tour his plantation and taste the delicious, rich, velvety bars made straight from the local bean.

Birds eye view of boats on pier at Ilhéu das Rolas, São Tomé (Right)

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Featured Destination: São Tomé and Príncipe

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: São Tomé and Príncipe

Praia Escada, Ilhéu das Rolas, São Tomé

Featured Destination: São Tomé and Príncipe

INSIDER TIPS • Low season visitors should keep in mind that rainfall is abundant in Príncipe and in the southern part of São Tomé, bringing beautiful lush vegetation. However, the driest area is the north of Sao Tome, around the capital which is located in a rain shadow.

• The inhabitants of São Tomé and Príncipe are a genuine, welcoming and happy people. Take time to chat and listen to local stories, but note you’re in a different culture here, where time has little meaning and stress is low. Take heed of the national phrase – ‘leve leve’ - easy easy.

• São Toméans are known for ússua and socopé rhythms, while Príncipe is home to the dêxa beat. Portuguese ballroom may have played an integral part in the development of these rhythms and their associated dances. Join in in downtown São Tomé.

GOOD TO KNOW • You’ll be spoilt for choice for beautiful beaches, but the most famous is Praia Banana on Príncipe. Its pristine shores were made famous in the 1990s when it was the filming location for the fantastic Barcardi Rum ads. It remains just as beautiful today and still uncrowded.

• In 1919 Einstein’s General Theory of Relativity was proven by Sir Arthur Eddington on the island of Príncipe, due to the observation of the solar eclipse showing the gravitational deflection of starlight. Each May, at Roça Sundy there’s a celebration of the anniversary.

• Bom Bom Resort on Principe has its own PADI

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Dive Centre, so you can learn the necessary skills before exploring the underwater world for snapper, moray eels, parrot fish, barracuda, turtles and colourful corals. Summer visibility is best but you can dive in the warm waters year round.

Meet The Low Season Travellers

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Meet the

Featured Meet TheDestination: Low SeasonZimbabwe Travellers

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Travellers

Originally hailing from the States, Jay Swanson dreamed of living in France. An initial visit to Nice failed to ignite a love affair with the country, though travelling back through Paris was the beginning of a journey that would result in a move to the French capital. Giving advice and creating content on his favourite places he discovered in the city, Jay launched the popular platform Paris in my Pocket to showcase the Paris he loves. In this interview, Jay shares how Paris in my Pocket came about, the cultural differences he faced between the US and Paris, and some of his recommendations and tips for first time or long time visitors.

Photo credits: My Paris Portraits

Jay: I never got to travel when I was a kid - unless you consider camping out of the back of the family station wagon in the nearest state park ‘travel.’ Despite being bound to the Inland Northwest of the US, I had an inexplicable desire to go to France. It led me to study French. Eventually it led me to live here. I first moved to Nice and while I don’t know what I expected, Nice wasn’t it. At the time I thought ‘Well, at least I solidified my French.’ But then I passed through Paris on my way back to the States and realised THIS was what I’d always wanted. Paris was what my heart had been yearning for. I made it my mission to move back. Ryan: What are some of the cultural and lifestyle differences you faced in Paris? Jay: Nothing happens on a reasonable time scale in Paris, by my American ‘can-do-attitude’ standards and expectations. (Left) Jay and Cooper at a coffeeshop

You’re more likely to be told something is ‘impossible’ by any French service staff as you are to see them jump to attention at the opportunity to help you. But the slower pace of life has major benefits. It gives meals space to breathe, friends time to connect, and your stress from city life the chance to properly dissipate before it gets too far under the skin. Ryan: What is Paris in my Pocket and how did you come to start it? Jay: When daily vlogging my life in Paris I got asked for recommendations every day. Everything from where to eat to where to stay and how to avoid the scams that were certainly lurking around every corner. Eventually I wised up and put my regular responses, and eventually so much more, into a PDF that grew into a 140 page book. That book has evolved from “Jay Swanson’s Guide to Paris” into the online, dynamic guide that exists at parisinmypocket.com today. It means I can add and remove places at will, and we have so much planned for its future.

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Ryan: Tell me about your early travels and fascination with Paris.

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Jay and Fox from Good News Coffee Ryan: What are some of your favourite off-the-beatentrack things to do in the city?

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Jay: Get to Canal Saint Martin while you’re in Paris. It’s become a highway to delicious food and makes for a fantastic stroll in any season. With the little bridges crossing every hundred metres, boats passing through locks, and locals drinking along its banks, you can’t go wrong. And as you’ll be coming in colder weather (if you’re seeking the true low season) then sneak into some warmth at the Atelier des Lumieres for an hour long immersive art experience. Just get your tickets online (and at least a few hours in advance).

Ryan: Where are some of your favourite non-touristy places to eat and drink? Jay: If you’re craving French classics, then I’d head to Brasserie Dubillot on Rue Saint Denis. The street itself is

famous as the former backbone of prostitution in the city and still has some signs of that history, which makes it a fun if ridiculous stroll, but it’s also loaded with great restaurants I’d recommend in a heartbeat. Including Petit Bao - a Chinese delight at the southern end of the same street. Ryan: Do you have any tips or tricks for first-time visitors to the city? Jay: It sounds obvious but you’d be surprised how often this is overlooked: Always say “Bonjour” when entering an establishment. It announces your presence but, more importantly, fulfills a French ritual that outsiders are mostly unaware exists. You’re stepping into the extension of someone’s home, and it’s considered polite to start with a “Bonjour.” Keep that alongside a few phrases to try in French and you’ll quickly see an improvement in your interactions across the board.

Download Paris in my Pocket at: www.parisinmypocket.com. Eiffel Tower, 15e arrondissement (right)

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Featured Destination: Scotland

SCOTLAND Wild coastline, medieval castles, historic cities and wonderful whisky

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Low Season: October-March

Featured Destination: Scotland

By Claire French

Whether you’re a history buff, food fanatic, outdoorsy type or enjoy a luxury spa hotel you’ll find your magic here, in Scotland, one of the last great wildernesses of Europe. Comedian Billy Connelly once said “There are two seasons in Scotland: June and winter.” It seems a lot of travellers took him rather literally as summer is indeed prime time for people wanting to explore Scottish national parks, country estates, golf courses, stunning shores and remote

islands. And why not? The days are long and warm weather likely. If you really prefer however to immerse yourself in a genuinely crowd-free experience, consider a low season visit from the end of the October half-term until March. Many choose to stay away at this time believing the weather to be wet, road conditions adverse and many venues closed. On the contrary, there are some great low season days featuring a changing light and dramatic skies, easily accessible routes, excellent public transportation, and year-round domestic flights and island ferry crossings. In the winter, locals have more time to chat, show you some real traditional Scottish hospitality and you’ll avoid the annoying summer midges. You’ll also more easily get that table at a favourite restaurant to enjoy delicious spiced haggis, west coast lobster or a creamy cullen skink.

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The rugged beauty of the Land of the Brave has long served as inspiration for poets, artists, musicians and scholars. It’s the stuff of legends, drama, superstition and heroes, from William Wallace, Robert the Bruce and Robbie Burns, to Sean Connery, Andy Murray, and TV’s ‘Outlander’.

Eilean Donan Castle on a small island in Loch Duich Scotland

Featured Destination: Scotland City Break Weekenders The major cities of Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen are extremely well connected with flights throughout the year from all over Europe. They offer distinct and varied options for low season fun. Enjoy a couple of days away exploring the historic centres, traditional pubs, green parks and world class restaurants. Choose Edinburgh and its looming castle and climb to Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park for outstanding city views. Or check out Glasgow’s art nouveau architecture, many breweries and stunning 12th century cathedral, the oldest in mainland Scotland. Aberdeen is less well known, but is so worth a visit boasting a fascinating maritime museum, inspired street murals, cobbled alleys and eclectic nightlife. Are We There Yet? The thing about Scotland is that it’s considerably larger than many people imagine. From London it’s a full day’s drive to the border and then a good 6 hours plus to the northern most point of the mainland. The good news is that a road trip is still totally possible with the ‘Scotland Starts Here’ campaign showcasing the many delights of the southern regions of the nation. This area around the Borders, Dumfries & Galloway, Ayrshire, Arran and Bute not only remains the most accessible but enjoys renowned characteristics of Scottish spirit, is historically significant and offers a wealth of exciting experiences. Beautiful Dalkeith Country Park; the 15th century Rosslyn Chapel of ‘The Da Vinci Code’ fame; Hawick Glass Art; Jedburgh Castle Jail & Museum; and stunning coastal walks are just a few examples.

Low Season Traveller

Highlands & Islands Venture further north and the sky opens to endless spectacular scenery, picturesque lochs, waterfalls, mountain terrain and pristine shoreline. You’ll need a good raincoat, decent hiking boats and thermals. That’s true at any time of year but particularly in low season! Hunt for Nessie, wander windswept beaches, or enjoy the West Highland Line train journey across the Glenfinnan Viaduct. If you’ve a little extra time, take a ferry out to the peaceful islands of Tiree, Shetland, Mull, Orkney or Skye and discover their unique cultures, histories and adventures.

Meet a Hairy Cow Get a hands-on experience with highland cattle at a working farm and learn how these magnificent and distinct beasts are reared and tended. Feed a calf and discover how the cattle are deeply connected to highland culture.

Collection of Scottish whisky tasting glasses

FOOD & DRINK Airds Restaurant, Argyll Award winning eatery at Airds Boutique Hotel in Port Appin near Oban. If you love fish and seafood, this is the place! An à la carte menu is served in a candle-lit atmosphere, specialising in producing the best of local Scottish seafood, and renowned meat or game dishes.

TOP EXPERIENCES

The Bay, Stonehaven Excellent fish and chips shop serving local, sustainable and delicious freshly cooked takeaway meals right on the Stonehaven seafront from Wednesday through Sunday. Winner of numerous awards including ‘Young Frier of the Year’, and ‘UK’s Best Takeaway’.

Book a Tutored Whisky Tasting Who would have thought there were so many whiskys? Educate yourself with a cosy tasting session under expert guidance. Experience the taste sensations of hundreds of whisky varieties, learning what food to pair with which blends.

Glenmorangie House, Tain Set amongst the rolling barley fields of Easter Ross, this beloved Highland hideaway serves five course tasting menus featuring the likes of freshly caught lobster, venison and passion fruit tart drizzled in a sauce made with Glenmorangie 18 Years old.

Search for the Northern Lights Forget Iceland and Norway. The Scottish north is a great place to observe the green hues of Aurora Borealis. The best time to see them is autumn and winter when nights are longer and darker. Try a remote island beach in the Hebrides.

Edinburgh, Scotland at sunset (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Scotland

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Scotland

Northern lights over the Callanish Stones

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Scotland

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Scotland

Sunset over the beach at Hushinish on the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland

Featured Destination: Scotland

INSIDER TIPS • Single malt aficionados can take a short break on the Isle of Islay with no fewer than 9 functioning distilleries. The southernmost of the Inner Hebrides islands, Islay is best known for peaty smoky whiskys as well as stunning scenery and wildlife. Don’t embarrass yourself… it’s pronounced ‘Eye-la’.

• Low season offers some of the best of UK birding. RSPB Scotland looks after 77 nature reserves that total more than 72,000 hectares and make up almost half of RSPB’s total UK land holding. Spot golden eagles, crested tits, Scottish crossbill, and black grouse as well as winter waders.

• Scottish celebrations don’t end with the summer. Check out the Enchanted Forest in Pitlochry in October, BLAS Festival on Skye or Glasgow’s Celtic Connections and Shetland’s Up Helly Aa in January. You can also join St Andrews Day and Burns Night across the country.

GOOD TO KNOW • Visit BrewDog’s state of the art beer school, museum and library in Ellon, north of Aberdeen. It’s one of the most technologically advanced breweries in the world, is located on a green field site, and offers a host of fun experiences. Food is served and there’s even a playground for the kids.

• Golfers will be pleased to know that the sport can be played year-round on many courses. Enjoy stunning scenery while you take part. Favourite winter courses include North Berwick West Links, an Open Championship Qualifying venue; historic Gullane Golf Club; and the renowned St Andrews.

• Watch bottlenosed dolphins in the Moray

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Firth and at Aberdeen Harbour year-round. Visit the WDC Scottish Dolphin Centre, where entry is free and learn about these charming creatures. Enjoy beautiful walks along the tumultuous River Spey. You may also a spot seal or osprey.

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Featured Photograph

Photo by: Anthony Cassidy

Featured Photograph

Stepping through the gates of San Diego’s Balboa Park is like entering a wonderland of architectural, botanical and cultural delights. From the Spanish Colonial Revival splendour of the Casa de Balboa to the Moorish-inspired Mingei International Museum, every turn reveals a new architectural gem. A stroll through the ancient arches of the Alcazar Garden, the Japanese Friendship Garden and the lush jungle canopy of the Palm Canyon will leave you spellbound.

Low Season Traveller

Do you have a photo that you think captures the essence of low season travel? Email editor@lowseasontraveller.com for an opportunity to feature in a future edition.

Featured Destination: Hua Hin

HUA HIN, THAILAND Sports, wellness, verdant forests and happening nightmarkets in a Thai beachside town

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: March-April, September-October

Featured Destination: Hua Hin

By Claire French undiscovered by western tourists, Hua Hin makes a fun and fascinating break away from the norm. Thai holidaymakers enjoy Hua Hin particularly in November to February when the dry weather is perfect for frolicking at the beach without being too hot. At this time the sands are crowded and prices are high. At Low Season Traveller, we recommend a visit in March to April which, although more hot and humid, sees fewer crowds and lower prices. Another great time to travel is during the less popular monsoonal months of September to October, when there is still heaps to do at bargain rates.

Low Season Traveller

Do you feel like you’re done with hill tribe villages, are all templed out, and survived Bangkok’s nightlife? Maybe you’re ready for something different. Hua Hin is located little more than a couple of hours south of the capital, in the province of Prachuap Khiri Khan, but has a completely different vibe. This once quiet fishing village on the skinny stretch of mainland north of the Malay peninsula was established as a Royal getaway in the 1920s and has since grown into a fashionable resort town. It’s to Hua Hin that Thais and Bangkokweary expats flock to relax, let their hair down and enjoy some amazing watersports activities. Relatively

Fishing boat on Hua-Hin beach, Thailand

Featured Destination: Hua Hin Family Friendly Fun You cannot beat Hua Hin for superb waterparks. Black Mountain Waterpark is great for all ages, with facilities including a spectacular wave pool, lazy river, spa pool and children’s adventure pool. Another favourite is the brilliant Vana Nava Waterpark offering plenty of exciting modern flumes including the incredible Virtual Reality slide, the first of its kind in Asia. Dry off and head to Santorini Park, a theme park with ferris wheel and rides, all decked out to look like a Greek island. Experience a gondola ride on the canals of the Little Venice shopping village, or perhaps you’ll prefer the Moroccan inspired Camel Republic, complete with camel rides, zipwire, and 4D cinema. Golf Like a Pro Extremely popular throughout Thailand, golf is a huge draw to Hua Hin, with no fewer than 8 courses in close proximity to the town. Black Mountain in particular is a championship course that has already featured a Ryder Cup team and has top professionals visiting regularly. Stunning Banyan Golf Club offers attractive packages with luxury villa stays, while the Royal Hua Hin, opened in 1924, is the country’s first ever course! The Hua Hin-Cha Am Golf Festival held during August-September is a golfer’s chance to play some amazing rounds super cheaply. Make a Splash Get yourself some surf lessons, dude, it’s the new big thing to hit the shores of Hua Don Beach. Kitesurfing is still as popular as ever with a whole host of schools offering coaching with their professional tutors. Waterskiing, sailing and windsurfing are also all vying for the attention of your adrenaline; or for a unique kind of activity, you can indulge in a spot of beach horse-riding, trotting through the surf on the ocean’s edge.

TOP EXPERIENCES Chiva Som Health Resort This award-winning wellness resort offers a series of retreats to heal body and mind. Elements include yoga, massage, nutrition, and much more aimed at transforming the individual with life-long learning skills in the pursuit of total holistic wellness.

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Palisa Organic Farm Enjoy outstanding nutritious meals in beautiful natural surroundings. If you are feeling energetic, wander the grounds by bike tasting samples and picking fresh leafy green veg, beans, gourds and exotic fruits like mangosteen and rambutan.

Gifts being sold on Cicada Market

FOOD & DRINK Baan Itsara Seafood Restaurant Atmospheric beachfront venue offering a range of delicious local delicacies. It’s renowned for its signature dish of stir fried crab in sweet basil sauce. Early booking is essential, especially if you want the best sea views. The Sala, Monsoon Valley Vineyard Hidden in the nearby hills, and cooler than the town, you can enjoy both Thai and international dishes paired with the vineyard’s own wines, while admiring the gorgeous scenery. Can be combined with a tour of the vineyard. Vana Nava Sky, Holiday Inn Perched on the 27th floor is this spectacular roof top bar, the highest in town. Enjoy an extensive menu of cocktails and meals with a 360 degree bird’s eye view of Hua Hin. Look out for the stunning glass floor if you don’t mind heights.

Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park A memorable day trip 60km from the town is the first marine national park of Thailand. Attractions include towering limestone hills along the gulf, an iconic royal pavilion, Kaeo Cave and Thung Sam Roi Yot Freshwater Marsh rich in wildlife.

Pavilion in Phraya Nakorn cave, Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Hua Hin

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Hua Hin

Sun setting on Hua-Hin beach, Thailand

Featured Destination: Hua Hin

INSIDER TIPS • Cicada night market is not to be missed. It’s only open on weekends, Friday through Sunday 4pm till 11pm. It’s got a boho feel with lots of artists, vendors and delicious street food. Live bands hit the stage at around 8.30pm.

• Jelly fish season in Hua Hin runs from June to October and the nasty stingers are especially prevalent after rainfall. Take care entering the water, carry vinegar to treat stings, and make full use of your hotel’s pool if you need to.

• Hua Hin has one of the lowest rainfalls in the whole of Thailand. Even in the monsoon season, there are never sustained periods where it rains consistently. Normally a shower will last a few minutes or up to an hour or so.

GOOD TO KNOW • The last weekend in September sees the Chao Mae Tubtim shrine hold a merit-making event, a Buddhist practice to ensure good karma. The shrine to the fertility goddess is complete with phalluses and a 20 metre concrete crocodile.

• Arriving by train is a lovely scenic way to reach Hua Hin, not least because of the historic train station. A remarkable structure, it’s a mix of elegant Thai curves and Victoria styling, and dates from the reign of King Rama VI.

• Free your inner creator at the artist village of

Low Season Traveller

Baan Silapin where galleries, studios and gift shop are open year round. There are a range of classes on offer so you can try your hand at painting or sculpture in a relaxed and inspiring environment.

Bali’s Day of Silence

Bali’s

DAY OF SILENCE

Low Season Traveller

A SERENE JOURNEY OF SELF-DISCOVERY IN THE LOW SEASON

Bali’s Day of Silence Bali, Indonesia’s island paradise, is a tapestry of vibrant culture, breathtaking landscapes, and alluring beaches. Renowned for its dynamic tourist appeal year-round, Bali transforms into a serene haven during the low season months of April to October. This period offers travellers an unparalleled opportunity to delve into the island’s tranquillity and undiscovered treasures. Among these seasonal highlights is the Balinese Day of Quiet, known as Nyepi, a day of profound silence, reflection, and renewal. Understanding Nyepi: Bali’s Sacred Silence Nyepi marks the commencement of the Balinese New Year according to the Saka Calendar. Unique to Bali’s Hindu community, this observance is a day when the island’s usual vibrancy yields to a rare calm. For 24 hours, from sunrise to sunrise, Bali retreats into a state of stillness. This pause is not just physical but also extends to a mental and spiritual halt, facilitating an introspective journey for both locals and visitors. During Nyepi, the island’s streets become eerily quiet, as businesses shut down, and all forms of transportation and regular activities cease. This suspension of the usual hustle and bustle offers a moment for everyone to turn inward, reflecting on the year that has passed and setting intentions for the year ahead. The Rituals of Nyepi Nyepi’s observance begins with several pre-Nyepi rituals, the most prominent being Melasti or Mekiyis. This purification ceremony, occurring a few days prior to Nyepi, involves processions to the sea where prayers are offered, and sacred objects are cleansed. This ritual symbolises the purification of the mind and soul. On the eve of Nyepi, the island vibrates with the Ngrupuk parade, where locals carry ‘Ogoh-Ogoh,’ massive, artistically crafted demonic statues made of papiermâché. These parades, filled with music, dancing, and the cacophony of gamelan, represent the banishment of negative energies. As the Ogoh-Ogoh are set ablaze, the belief is that the island is cleansed of evil spirits, paving the way for a peaceful Nyepi.

Low Season Traveller

Experiencing Nyepi in the Low Season Travelling to Bali during the low season, particularly around Nyepi, is a distinctly immersive experience. The reduced number of tourists during this period enhances the day’s sacredness, allowing for a deeper appreciation of the island’s natural beauty and cultural richness.

Nyepi celebrations silhouetted against the starry sky

Bali’s Day of Silence

Melasti ceremony on beach before Nyepi Tips for Travellers • Plan Ahead: With Bali being quieter in the low season, it’s still essential to book accommodations and trips in advance, especially around Nyepi. Many establishments offer special Nyepi packages, so comparing options is advisable.

Low Season Traveller

•

Respect the Silence: Nyepi is a time of inward reflection and external quietude. Visitors are expected to respect these norms, refraining from outdoor activities, loud sounds, and bright lights.

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Embrace the Experience: Use this day for selfreflection. Engage in activities like reading, meditation, or yoga. It’s a rare opportunity to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with oneself.

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Stargazing: With no lights across the island, Nyepi night offers an unparalleled stargazing experience. The clear, pollution-free skies of Bali become a canvas for the stars.

Nyepi 2024: Mark Your Calendars In 2024, Nyepi will occur on March 11-12. This timing, falling within the low season, makes it an ideal opportunity for travellers seeking a unique and serene experience. The quiet of Nyepi, combined with the already peaceful low season, promises an environment for deep contemplation and enjoyment of Bali’s less frequented beauties. Bali’s Day of Quiet extends beyond a mere cultural observance; it is a profound experience of introspection and connection with the world. For travellers seeking authenticity and depth, Nyepi in the low season offers a chance to witness Bali’s spiritual heart. It’s a reminder of the need for peace, stillness, and self-reflection in our lives—a true embodiment of the transformative power of travel.

Celebrating Nyepi in Mescati Beach, Bali (right)

Low Season Traveller

Bali’s Day of Silence

Low Season Traveller

Bali’s Day of Silence

Ogoh-ogoh statues for Ngrupuk parade in Sukawati, Bali

Low Season Traveller

Bali’s Day of Silence

Featured Destination: Mexico

MEXICO Latin American colours, sounds and culture, ancient pyramids and glorious sands

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: March-April, September-November

Beach in Tulum, Mexico

Featured Destination: Mexico

By Claire French

Your cash will go a long way here, although prices are higher in the resorts of Cancún and Baja California. The best deals though are to be grabbed the low season, February through April, Easter excepted, and September to November.

Summer is the most popular time to travel and ironically that’s when you are most likely to encounter hurricanes and tropical showers, while the winter enjoys clearer waters, and cooler temperatures, more ideal for visiting Mexico’s prestigious archaeological sites. Whenever you travel, remember Mexico is characterised by its diversity, full of flavours, smells, traditions and experiences. With 32 distinctive states and 33 UNESCO World Heritage sites, Mexico is a destination that offers deserts in the north; mountains and volcanoes in the centre; and beautiful beaches and lush jungles in the south. Just make sure your companion has the same agenda.

Low Season Traveller

Choose your friends carefully before you announce, “I’m heading down Mexico way, why don’t you join me?” Such words are bound to conjure up very different images to different folk. For every traveller who’s got the urge to explore the back streets and architectural edifices of a colonial past, there are more who want to do an Indiana Jones over Mayan temples, and more still who can imagine nothing better than lounging on a Caribbean beach by crystalline seas.

Featured Destination: Mexico Colonial Cities & Heritage Towns If your low season adventure does overlap into Easter, it is worth noting that this is when the locals escape to the beach, leaving cities strangely quiet, with blue skies and reduced traffic. It’s a great time to explore Mexico City wandering the purple jacaranda-filled capital discovering the glorious historic centre, fascinating museums of the Bosque de Chapultepec, and the artsy Coyoacan neighbourhood, home to Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky. Many city centres have been designated UNESCO Sites and are well worth your time and energy. Guanajuato, the city of art, is perfect to explore on foot with its winding lanes and subterranean streets. Guadalajara has wonderfully conserved its complex cultural mosaic of colonial flair and native Tapatíos influences, and hums with mariachi music. Oaxaca enjoys an unspoiled centre and is often regarded as Mexico’s gastronomic centre, while pretty Morelia boasts a stunning Baroque style 17th century cathedral.

Day of The Dead Festivities Falling in the low season of early November, the renowned celebration (yes, death is perceived as a time of joy) avoids the peak tourist period, but you certainly will mix with large crowds of locals as you immerse yourself in this colourful indigenous cultural phenomenon. The main event is in Pátzcuaro, but there are celebrations throughout the country. Chichen Itza Mayan Metropolis Of all the impressive sites, this remains the most magnificent and best restored, renowned for El Castillo, the 30 metre tall stepped stone Pyramid of Kukulkan, which dominates the site. A day trip from Cancún and Playa del Carmen or the White City of Merida, it’s best visited during the cooler winter months but avoid Sundays when Mexicans enter for free.

Incredible Archaeological Sites It is the rare visitor who is not just a little bit impressed by the feats of design by the Aztecs in the centre and Mayans in the south. Dating back more than 2000 years, the sites comprise cities of advanced construction, wellpreserved inscriptions, mysterious symbolism, secret tunnels and incredible scientific achievements. Possibly the best example is the site at Chichen Itza and its Caracol, a 1000 year old observatory whereby priests formed an accurate calendar. Other popular sites are the Aztec’s lakeside capital of Tenochtitlan; the Uxmal ruins and their impressive light and sound show; Pelenque on the Yucatan Peninsula and the stunning cliff edge fortress of Tulum, but with 40,000 archaeological sites to explore, you’ll find your own favourite. Beaches & Resorts With 9000 miles of coastline, exquisite azure seas and some of the best diving in the world, beach lovers will not be disappointed. The popular Mayan Riviera incorporates a beautiful stretch of the Gulf of Mexico off the Yucatan Peninsula and includes Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and the island of Cozumel, while over on the Pacific Coast, Puerto Vallarta, a playground for North Americans since the 1960s still has untouched niches. The stunning Baja Peninsula and Los Cabos boast some top class resorts, but similarly, you can find uncrowded spots on the long beaches. While all-inclusive resorts hold an appeal for many, others might want to check out smaller centres such the coconut town of Ixtapa and the former fishing village of Zihuatanejo which successfully manage to combine a tourist infrastructure with a traditional Mexican feel.

Low Season Traveller

TOP EXPERIENCES

Whale Migration Between November and March, thousands of grey and humpback whales travel from Alaska and Canada to the warm Mexican Pacific coast off Baja California. In fact, the region is known as one of the best places in the world to view these magnificent mammals. Watch from the beach or for a more close-up experience book a tour with experienced guides.

Aerial view of Chichen Itza, Mexico

FOOD & DRINK Mexican Weekend Breakfast There is no one specific dish but Mexican breakfast is a very important event at the weekend. Dishes are generally based on eggs with all sorts of sauces including meats, vegetables and a spicy tomato stew. Fresh fruit and natural juices are always on tap too. Pacific Coast Seafood Baja California favourites include marlin, swordfish, snapper, tuna, shrimp and octopus prepared with lemon, fresh chillies, tomato, cilantro or onion; or ceviche, raw fish cured in citrus juices. Try them at local cantinas or in the region’s high end eateries. Pan Dulce Try Mexico’s delicious sweet breads including the traditional Pan de Muerto in October and November or Rosca de Reyes in January or any fresh bread from traditional local bakeries, to be enjoyed with a cup of hot chocolate at breakfast or dinner.

Women wearing masks and costumes for Day of the Dead celebrations (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Mexico

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Mexico

Blue cenote in Yucatán, Mexico

Featured Destination: Mexico

INSIDER TIPS • Depending on your home network, you might consider buying a Mexican sim for your phone. It is easy to do, doesn’t require any ID and having data to access maps while you explore can save many a lost person or lost temper.

• For terrific views of Mexico City, climb to the top terrace of the Museo Nacional de Historia. This national museum is located at Chapultepec Castle and is itself a stunning building in lovely grounds. Well worth the effort!

• Domestic flights cover ground quickly, but do consider Mexico’s decent bus network. Luxury primero and platino buses whisk through beautiful countryside in style, while colectivo shared minibuses are great for shoestring travellers.

GOOD TO KNOW • Spanish is the national tongue, but this is far from the Costa del Sol. English is taught is many schools but is spoken by just an estimated 5% of the population, so for taking public transport or Ubers, shopping or getting directions, try español.

• Similar to the US, tipping here is expecting. Service staff earn little or no base salary and rely on tips for a living wage. These include porters, hotel staff, bagging assistants in shops, salon workers, airport transfer drivers and taxi drivers.

• The winter season is the time to visit the

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astonishing Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve in the heights of Michaoacán state. Millions of butterflies arrive in this UNESCO World Heritage Site from North America creating a magical phenomenon.

Low Season Traveller

Cultural Heritage

cultural heritage icons When it comes to cultural heritage wonders, some iconic sites like the Great Wall of China or the Taj Mahal often steal the spotlight. However, our world is filled with hidden gems that showcase the rich tapestry of human history and cultural diversity. In a regular feature in collaboration with our partners at The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage, we embark on a journey to discover five lesser-known cultural heritage wonders which you may not be aware of. These extraordinary sites offer unique insights into ancient civilizations, artistry, and remarkable human achievements.

SWAYAMBHUNATH, NEPAL TSINGY DE BEMARAHA, MADAGASCAR Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers a striking and unique landscape. Known for its limestone karst formations, the ‘tsingy’ are needle-like limestone formations that create a spectacular and otherworldly terrain. This park is also home to diverse wildlife, including several lemur species. Visiting during the quieter months allows adventurers to traverse its dramatic landscapes and suspension bridges with fewer distractions, fully immersing in its natural beauty and the distinct ecological system. This experience is not just a visual feast but a journey into one of the world’s most unique geological wonders.

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Swayambhunath, affectionately known as the ‘Monkey Temple’, is an ancient religious complex atop a hill in the Kathmandu Valley. It offers a panoramic view of the city and is a significant site for Buddhists and Hindus alike. The stupa, with its iconic Buddha eyes, is surrounded by temples and shrines. During the low season, visitors can experience a more peaceful atmosphere, allowing for a reflective exploration of its intricate carvings, prayer wheels, and the harmonious coexistence of different religious practices. This time also provides a unique opportunity to engage more deeply with the local monks and devotees, understanding the site’s spiritual significance.

Low Season Traveller

Cultural Heritage

Cultural Heritage SAMAIPATA FORT, BOLIVIA

CARCASSONNE, FRANCE The medieval fortress of Carcassonne in Southern France is a picturesque ensemble of towers, ramparts, and cobbled streets. As one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe, it offers a journey back in time. The cooler months bring fewer tourists, allowing a more authentic and peaceful exploration of its historic charm and the surrounding Languedoc wine region.

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The Samaipata Fort, an archaeological site in central Bolivia, is a pre-Columbian wonder. This UNESCO World Heritage Site features a unique blend of Inca and Chané cultures, with its large sculptured rock, believed to have been a ceremonial centre. The quiet season is perfect for unhurried exploration of its mysterious carvings and stunning panoramic views.

Cultural Heritage

Low Season Traveller

SHURI CASTLE, OKINAWA, JAPAN

Shuri Castle, a symbol of the Ryukyu Kingdom in Okinawa, offers a distinctive blend of Japanese and Chinese architectural styles. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, reconstructed after WWII, stands as a testament to the resilience of the Okinawan culture. Visiting in the off-peak season allows for a more reflective experience of its historical significance and stunning surroundings. We hope this overview of these unusual cultural heritage icons has inspired you to visit one of them on your next trip. Low season travel is the perfect time to visit these sites, as you’ll avoid the crowds and enjoy a more authentic experience.

Low Season Traveller

Climate Friendly Accomodation

Climate Friendly Accommodation IN COLLABORATION WITH OUR FRIENDS AT THE CLIMATE FRIENDLY TRAVEL CLUB, WE HIGHLIGHT SOME OF THE MOST SUSTAINABLE AND CLIMATE FRIENDLY TRAVEL OPTIONS FOR A VARIETY OF DESTINATIONS AROUND THE WORLD. THIS MONTH WE FOCUS ON BALI, COSTA RICA, GRENADA AND ZIMBABWE.

Low Season Traveller

Climate Friendly Accomodation

Climate Friendly Accomodation FIVELEMENTS BALI, INDONESIA (PREVIOUS PAGE) Tucked away in the serene Balinese landscape, Fivelements presents a haven for the eco-conscious traveller. This enchanting retreat champions a deep connection with nature, embracing Balinese healing traditions and an eco-friendly ethos. Their commitment to sustainability shines through their use of local, natural materials in construction and a plantbased culinary delight that’s both healthy and harmonious with the environment. At Fivelements, you’re not just booking a stay; you’re immersing yourself in a sustainable lifestyle that nurtures both the planet and your soul. www.fivelementsbali.com Learn more

ULAMAN BALI, INDONESIA Ulaman Bali is a hidden gem for those seeking an ecofriendly escape. This boutique retreat has sustainability etched into its very essence, from the bamboo architecture that seamlessly blends with the surrounding jungle, to the organic garden that fuels its kitchen. Here, sustainability is not just a buzzword but a lived experience. The property’s dedication to minimal environmental impact, combined with luxurious comfort, offers a guilt-free getaway that doesn’t skimp on indulgence. www.ulamanbali.com Learn more

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FINCA ROSA BLANCA, COSTA RICA Nestled in the heart of Costa Rica’s coffee country, Finca Rosa Blanca combines luxury with sustainability in a way that’s as refreshing as their homegrown coffee. This charming inn, boasting a stunning hilltop location, is a pioneer in eco-tourism. Their organic coffee plantation, commitment to conservation, and efforts in community support set them apart. Wake up to the aroma of fresh coffee and the gentle rustle of the forest, knowing your stay contributes positively to the environment. www.fincarosablanca.com Learn more

HOTEL KURA, COSTA RICA (CAYUGA COLLECTION HOTELS) Hotel Kura, a jewel in the crown of the Cayuga Collection Hotels, is an epitome of sustainable luxury. Perched atop the Costa Rican rainforest with breathtaking views, this hotel not only offers a tranquil escape but also champions environmental stewardship. With a strong focus on community involvement and preserving the local ecosystem, every aspect of your stay, from farm-to-table dining to eco-friendly amenities, is thoughtfully designed for minimal ecological impact. It’s a place where luxury and responsibility walk hand in hand. www.kuracostarica.com Learn more

Climate Friendly Accomodation

MOUNT CINNAMON RESORT, GRENADA Grenada’s Mount Cinnamon Resort is a testament to sustainable tourism done right. Overlooking the stunning Grand Anse Beach, this resort offers a unique blend of luxury and eco-conscious practices. Their commitment to the environment is evident in everything from the locally sourced cuisine to the energy-efficient practices across the property. Enjoy the spice island’s natural beauty, knowing that your stay supports both local communities and environmental preservation. www.mountcinnamongrenadahotel.com Learn more

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THE VICTORIA FALLS HOTEL, ZIMBABWE The Victoria Falls Hotel, a grand old dame standing proudly near the majestic Victoria Falls, is more than a luxurious stay; it’s a journey into sustainable hospitality. Embracing its responsibility to one of the world’s natural wonders, the hotel focuses on conservation efforts and promoting local culture. Guests can indulge in the historic charm and modern comforts, all while being part of a legacy of environmental stewardship and cultural respect. Here, each stay is a step towards preserving one of the earth’s most awe-inspiring sites. www.victoriafallshotel.com Learn more

Featured Podcasts

of the best podcasts Low Season Traveller Insider Guides provide low season travel insights into what tourism destinations offer during their low seasons and also identify when is the best time to experience their destination. Here, we’ve picked out five of our favourite most recent podcasts.

Low Season Traveller

LOW SEASON PARIS

In this episode of the Low Season Traveller Insider Guides, host Ged Brown is joined by Jay Swanson, the creator of Paris In My Pocket, to discuss the overlooked allure of low season tourism in Paris. Jay provides unique insight into Paris, revealing the charm of local experiences, under-the-radar spots, and the inviting café culture of the city. He discusses the importance of integrating oneself into

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the rhythm of life in Paris, recommending the simple pleasure of people-watching. Jay also touches on the significance of French food and wine as he points out the city’s international food scene. He offers tips for first-time travellers, focusing on the balance between tourist attractions and hidden gems, and encourages exploration as the key to a fulfilling Parisian trip.

Featured Podcasts

Host Honor Morrison is joined by Vikki, the Managing Director for MacLean and Bruce, a small luxury travel business in Scotland. MacLean and Bruce focus on providing authentic Scottish experiences, making Vikki the ideal guest as she guides you through Scotland in the low season, the advantages and disadvantages to low season travel, the best places to visit, and top tips from someone on the inside. Vikki advises that you mix with the locals, dress appropriately and appreciate the great outdoors.

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Low Season Traveller

SCOTLAND: AIR LIKE COLD CHAMPAGNE

Featured Podcasts LOW SEASON MOROCCO In this episode, Ged is joined by Hicham Alaoui, co-Founder of Experience Morocco – a travel company which creates experiences that open minds and invites guests to build a lasting connection with this wonderful country. In doing so, Hicham believes that travel can be more than tourism - it can be a unifying experience that makes the global feel a little bit more local.

Low Season Traveller

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SCOTTISH WHISKY: THE WATER OF LIFE Known as Uisge Beatha or the Water of Life, whisky is and always has been, integral to Scottish cultural heritage. Honor and Vikki return to talk all things whisky this week covering everything from cover it all, from its origins, to the moment you taste it. Vikki’s business partner Charles MacLean is a world-leading whisky expert, and argues there is a whisky for everyone; all you need is a bar and a knowledgable barman. So, settle in as we dispel myths, tackle tricky terminology and discuss Vikki’s top distilleries.

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Low Season Traveller

Featured Podcasts

Low Season Traveller

Featured Podcasts

BUTTERFLIES, VOLCANOES, BEACHES AND CULTURE: LOW SEASON MEXICO

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In this episode, Ged catches up with Polo Sanchez-Valle to bring you on a journey of butterfly and whale migrations, stunning beaches, festivals and culture. This is low season Mexico!

Low Season Traveller

Featured Podcasts

LOW SEASON TRAVEL MAKES YOU FEEL FREE

Low Season Traveller - Issue 7

Articles inside

Featured Destination: Scotland

Low Season Goa: No Reservations Requirded...

Top 5 Low Season Podcasts

Climate Friendly Accommodation

Top 5 Cultural Heritage Icons

Low Season Mexico

Bali's Day Of Silence

Featured Destination: Hua Hin

Meet The Low Season Travellers

LOW SEASON SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE

Winter in Tromsø, Norway

LOW SEASON MOROCCO