Jewellery Historian, issue #10 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian

#10

index

004 Jewellery Historian

#10

May 2015

musts

Editor's Letter Diversity

Issue Globe The designers at a glance

Theo Fennell introduces Over the Rainbow ring

Pasquale Bruni Bon Ton enriched

Maria Kondakova celebrates the new Royal baby

Jewellery Historian Our news

auctions

Sotheby's Magnificent & Noble jewels in Geneva

portraits

Jack Vartanian Tropical collection

Kulmala Finnish design & purity

Theo Fennell Anything but conventional

126

Nikos Koulis The Medusa collection

140

Emerald The breathtaking beauty of gems

150

Anna Hu Uma Thurman & Emily Blunt

156

Our Faves time for Spring Shopping

176

EsthĂ¨te the editor's favorite for this month

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Address Book all brands featured in this issue

news

inspiration

Cover Bangle by Theo Fennell Jewellery Historian

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Jewellery Historian ISSUE 10, YEAR 01 MAY 2015 Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-chief

*** CONTRIBUTORS Eva Kountouraki Martin Huynh Christina Rodopoulou

***

LAY-OUT & DESIGN Jewellery Historian

***

www.jewelleryhistorian.com info@jewelleryhistorian.com

***

For a free subscription visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com

***

PUBLISHED & DISTRIBUTED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

HOMO EVOLUTION Chomatianou 26, 10439 Athens, Greece

*** FREE COPY / NOT FOR SALE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN ÂŠ 2014-2015

All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles are the author's own and do not reflect the view of the Jewellery Historian, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this site is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website and/or e-magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.

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editor 's letter

Diverse Today the jewellery industry is as dynamic as it is fast growing. Consequential changes are under way, both in consumer behavior as well as in the industry itself. Jewellery players canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t simply do business as usual and expect to thrive; they must be alert and responsive to important trends and developments or else risk being left behind by more agile competitors. In this competitive industry, every jewellery brand needs to strengthen and differentiate its brands through unique, distinctive designs. This is hard especially for young designers and brands that don't have the marketing muscle of others. Since the very first day, our main mission is to educate, inspire and to promote jewellery & timepieces designers, the expertise and vision of famous international maisons and talented young designers with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery & watch design as a form of creative expression. At the Jewellery Historian we value strong relationships and effective communication. We embrace diversity in every aspect and in particular in thoughts, opinions, and backgrounds. The more widespread and diverse we are, the bigger the positive impact we can make. We believe in effective, open, and honest communication that allows us to be different. Each issue is the result of this diversity. Recently in a trip in Paris, a designer asked me to describe the magazine with one word and my answer was "wine". Yes, all designers and brands are the ingredients that make this uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling. To prepare this "wine" we need all these unique ingredients that make it special. If one ingedient was missing the result would not be appreciated, because something was missing. Some of the world's greatest wines are made from a blend of grapes rather than a single varietal and the Jewellery Historian is a blend of ideas and creativity. The ones who taste this special blend are all our precious readers, who are invited to "taste" a new blend in every issue, to enjoy the beauty of creation and diversity.

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief

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issue globe In every issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. Meet the artists & columnists featured in this issue.

Theo FENNELL We are proud to host in this issue as a cover story Theo Fennell. Acknowledged as one of the premier design led jewellers and one of world's leading fine jewellery designers, his imaginative, eclectic, unusual and amazingly crafted pieces are distinctive and original and incorporate careful thought, detailed design and great craftsmanship. While Theo Fennell's jewels are crafted using traditional materials, they are anything but conventional.

Nikos KOULIS Nikos Koulis is a Greek fine jewelry designer with international appeal, creating exquisite pieces with a Mediterranean flair. Koulis blends diamonds of various cuts and colors, gold, rubies, emeralds, pearls with unexpected materials, working with demanding techniques and detailed craftsmanship. In this issue, we are proud to introduce you his new "MEDUSA" collection. Introduced at Baselworld 2015, the new, monothematic collection Medusa, based on snakes and their rich symbolisms. Named after the Greek mythological legend, Medusa in this collection, Koulis evolves the snake pattern in a daring way with surprising colors and elaborate details. 008 Jewellery Historian

KULMALA Minimalism reduces works to the fundamental, the essential, the necessary, and strips away unnecessary elements. Finnish design is characterised by minimalism and clean lines. The purity of Finnish design provides high quality design and craftsmanship and attracts people from all over the world. In this issue, we travel to Helsinki and we introduce you KULMALA, one of the greatest ambassadors of Finnish minimalism and design. The Kulmala team is a straightforward and joyous group of personalities that underlines perfection and quality even to ridiculous extends. Therefore, the Kulmala slogan: Craftsmanship with Ridiculous Precision.

Jack VARTANIAN Since 1999, Jack Vartanian has created fine jewelry collections infused with a unique blend of tradition, sophistication and avantgarde design. Today, Jack Vartanian brings a completely different collection into his design Portfolio. From the landscapes of his vacation time in Trancoso, in the Northeast of Brazil, he incorporates coconut leaf forms, which serves as his major inspiration. The Tropical collection that we showcase in this issue, is a collection of statement pieces that we loved and share with you all.

Eva KOUNTOURAKI Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Evaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA, the world famous Gemological Institute of America. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the "Unique breathtaking beauty of gems". In this issue discover and learn about the emeralds.

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news Boutique openings, coffee table books, auctions, exhibitions & events. Everything new jewellery lovers must know, is here.

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Photo courtesy of THEO FENNELL © THEO FENNELL

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THEO FENNELL ‘Over the Rainbow’ Opening Ring

At last the timeless superstition of there being a pot of gold under the rainbow is proved true by this enchanting opening ring.

Entirely one of a kind, this extraordinary piece has been conceived as a work of art by Theo in the Theo Fennell studio and hand-crafted by some of the most brilliant craftsmen in the world in the workshop above the Theo Fennell Fulham Road flagship store.

“One of the simplest and most beautiful wonders of nature, a rainbow lights up a grey sky with its wondrous spectrum of colours as the returning sun promises better things to come and makes a fairground of the sky.” said Theo Fennell.

Crafted from 18ct Yellow Gold and set with Pave Diamonds, the body of the ring has been beautifully handengraved. The Rock Crystal Dome, carved with clouds, veils a hand-painted rainbow and opens up to reveal a miniature pot of gold!

The ‘wooden’ doors on the sides of the ring open to reveal two idyllic village scenes, both of which have been exquisitely hand–enamelled.

This unique ring is available now from www.theofennell.com

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Photo courtesy of OMI PRIVÉ © OMI PRIVÉ

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PASQUALE BRUNI “B o n T o n " e n r i c h e d

Bon Ton, the iconic line by Pasquale Bruni, is enriched with new colours and emotions thanks to seductive calchedonies with a fascinating historical tradition, loved by ancient peoples and noblewomen for their beauty, positive influence and charm. The Corniola in an intense flame red is a homage to Isis and Cleopatra, feminine figures of great power and immense appeal. The light blue Calchedony is the gem of the colour of Venus. The symbol of love, beauty and creativity, it stands out for the enchanting and delicate hues of white-light blue and for the intense and deep shades of light blue-violet, which symbolise water. Grey Agate, lastly, evokes courage and protection, a colour that expresses a strong and resolute personality. The new shapes, exalted by the warmth of rose gold and the sparkle of white diamonds, come alongside the delicacy of pink, milky and fumé quartz, and the diamond pave versions. In the Bon Ton collection, the gem is queen. Characterized by the shape of a flower with five petals, symbol of the Italian jewellery house, the stone offers on both sides the typical Bon Ton cut with soft, irregular facets, which are lost in a cabochon pistil. The floral theme gives rise to the lace visible on the back of the piece of jewellery, whilst the crown which embraces the stone is embroidered with tiny hearts, a distinctive character which gives sparkle to the gem. Lastly, the contrarié design characterizes the new range of jewels in the Bon Ton collection.

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Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA © MARIA KONDAKOVA

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MARIA KONDAKOVA Celebrates the arrival of the royal baby

Limited edition ‘Royal Dreams’ pendant was launched by Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery to celebrate the arrival of the new royal baby. This very exclusive piece from the magical ‘YouVdiamonds’ collection marks a very special occasion in the history of the United Kingdom and aims to cherish it for many years to come.

‘YouVdiamonds’

creations

dedicated

children,

explores the notion of purity in the idea of childhood and infancy. The designer highlights the unique identity and mystery instilled in each baby from birth. Pure angels arrive with a secret path of the future ahead, a truly personal secret of whom the baby is to become and what talents, strength and potential he or she may possess. The wings are not just a symbol of the essence of an angel but a symbol of being able to reach the heights which are meant for each baby from birth.

The work of Maria Kondakova was the cover story in issue #09 and you can read the issue online.

www.mariakondakova.com

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Jewellery Historian Our news

It’s been almost a year since the birth of the Jewellery Historian. As we expected we had ups and downs throughout this first year. Thanks to your precious support and love we are here. We would like to thank your love and feedback during all that time. At the Jewellery Historian we value strong relationships and effective communication. It is very important to always act with integrity, be loyal, friendly and make sure that you do the right think. Trust is a key component of our work, since we know that when trust exist we can accomplish so much more. We believe that united we can make things better and for this reason we believe in team work. We embrace diversity in every aspect and in particular in thoughts, opinions, and backgrounds. The more widespread and diverse we are, the bigger the positive impact we can make. We believe in effective, open, and honest communication that allows us to be different. After almost a year we felt that it was time to introduce the layout we were designing since our first day. At the Jewellery Historian, we are excited to introduce to our new layout, the display of the content on our publication. Our magazine is the result of research for new and innovative ways of delivering information that can resonate long after publication. Our uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, is one of the main pillars of our work, since combined to the breathtaking designs we showcase in each issue and the use of new technologies, we allow to brands and young talented designers to reach a unique audience, our precious readers. Our new layout has the magical touch of minimalism but continues the tradition of the Jewellery Historian for elegant, clean and beautiful design; with a magical touch of clean, easy to read and minimal philosophy. Since issue #07 we constantly redesign our magazine. We decided to make these changes since we want to be a publication that inspires your everyday work. We are all inspired by different things, it’s usually either a person, place

or object. Finding that source of inspiration helps you establish your own voice which influences the work you do professionally. In every issue, we introduce you to industry leaders who will give you insight into their story. We meet designers that want to share their work with us. And lastly we showcase the work of emerging artists and designers. Our main mission is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. With this new layout we believe and hope that we will showcase the most important to us all : creativity, originaloty, rarity, beauty and craftsmanship. Our new website is online since last month and the feedback from all our readers and partners is positive and we are proud that you all like it. Our magazine lay-out changes since issue #07. In this issue you will discover that some pages have already changed, in order to offer you the best possible reading experience. Each piece of jewellery is a perfect balance of elegance, luxury and design and this new layout will contribute to showcase them at the best possible way. By offering an unrelenting magazine lay-out where brands can showcase their creations, we also offer to our readers a unique reading experience and a great educational ressource. Digital publishing has never been easier but because our world today is a global village, we’re no longer limited to just one medium of expression. Just like you, we also believe that our publication deserves to be available in any format, including print. We are currently working to make each issue available in Print on Demand. This will allow you to keep in your library each issue and to share it with friends. We hope that this new service will be available soon and by the end of the year.

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auctions

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"The Historic Pink"

LOT 460, estimate: CHF 13,650,000 - 17,500,000 / US$ 14,000,000 – 18,000,000

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

Set with a cushion brilliant-cut fancy vivid pink diamond weighing 8.72 carats, between cushion brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 1.09 and 1.12 carats, size 52.

Auction Magnificent & Noble jewels

All photos & texts in this article are courtesy of SOTHEBY'S. Published with permission of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

at SOTHEBY'S Geneva

Sotheby’s auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in Geneva this spring promises a breath-taking array of stunning and important jewels, whose breadth and variety representsaveritabletreasurechestofexceptionaljewels.The auction, to be held on 12 May, includes ‘The Historic Pink Diamond’, an extremely rare and highly important Fancy Vivid Pink diamond of 8.72 carats, alongside ‘The Sunrise Ruby’, a superb and extremely rare Burmese ruby weighing 25.59 carats with outstanding depth of colour. In addition to diamonds and gemstones of the very highest quality, the event will showcase signed jewels and historic pieces with exemplary provenance, including a stunning private collection of jewels by Cartier, signed pieces from Boucheron, Bulgari, Schlumberger and Belperron and no fewer than five exquisite tiaras – three of them formerly in the collection of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe.

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Magnificent & Noble jewels at SOTHEBY'S Geneva

Sotheby’s auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in Geneva this spring promises a breathtaking array of stunning and important jewels, whose breadth and variety represents a veritable treasure chest of exceptional jewels. The auction, to be held on 12 May, includes ‘The Historic Pink Diamond’, an extremely rare and highly important Fancy Vivid Pink diamond of 8.72 carats, alongside ‘The Sunrise Ruby’, a superb and extremely rare Burmese ruby weighing 25.59 carats with outstanding depth of colour. In addition to diamonds and gemstones of the very highest quality, the event will showcase signed jewels and historic pieces with exemplary provenance, including a stunning private collection of jewels by Cartier and no fewer than five exquisite tiaras – three of them formerly in the collection of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe.

Looking ahead to the sale, David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, commented: “I have remained in awe of the ‘Sunrise Ruby’ since the first moment I set eyes on it. In over 40 years, I cannot recall ever having seen another Burmese ruby of this exceptional size possessing such outstanding colour. We are also very excited to be offering a world- class fancy vivid pink diamond, dubbed the ‘Historic Pink Diamond’ by the GIA*, along with a remarkable wealth of signed pieces, including a private collection of extraordinary jewels by Cartier. We’ve had a tremendous response from those who’ve viewed the wonderfully rich selection to be offered in our Geneva sale.”

Sotheby's is delighted to present in May 'The Historic Pink Diamond', an extremely rare and highly important Fancy Vivid Pink diamond which, according to the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA), is believed to have been part of the collection of Princess Mathilde, niece of Napoleon I. This exquisite stone boasts VS2 clarity and mesmerising colour.

The 8.72-carat stone is also remarkable for its classic non-modified cushion cut, unusual in a pink diamond and a highly sought-after shape for connoisseurs of the very finest precious jewels. The market for coloured diamonds and precious gemstones has never been stronger, and pink diamonds rank among the rarest of all. In October, Sotheby's set a new benchmark for pink diamonds, with the sale of a superb and highly important Fancy Vivid Purplish-pink diamond weighing 8.41 carats, which achieved $17.8 million. In its assessment of this diamond, the GIA declares that it "takes its place amongst fabled Vivid Pink gems" known in the world.

Sotheby’s Geneva, Tuesday 12 May 2015 Hôtel Beau-Rivage 13, quai du Mont-Blanc, 1201 Geneva

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S ÂŠ SOTHEBY'S

Magnificent diamond necklace, 'Ivresse', Cartier This lot is showcased also in page 32 of this article

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026 Jewellery Historian Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

Magnificent & Noble jewels at SOTHEBY'S Geneva

Magnificent sapphire and diamond brooch, Cartier Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 30.23 carats, amongst pear- and marquiseshaped diamonds weighing a total of approximately 42.35 carats, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay and partial maker's marks, case stamped Cartier. LOT 499, estimate: CHF 3,410,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5,850,000 / US$ 3,500,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6,000,000

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028 Jewellery Historian Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

Magnificent & Noble jewels at SOTHEBY'S Geneva

Diamond tiara, Cartier, 1930s Of geometric design, set throughout with circular-cut diamonds surmounted by a graduated series of thirty-one collet-set diamonds, inner circumference approximately 415mm, signed Cartier, fitted case stamped Cartier, the exterior of the case with monogram and coronet for Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe. LOT 497, estimate: CHF 295,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 485,000 / US$ 300,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 500,000

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

Magnificent & Noble jewels at SOTHEBY'S Geneva

‘THE SUNRISE RUBY’ Described as a ‘unique treasure of nature’ by the Swiss Gemmological Institute, the ‘Sunrise Ruby’ leads this exceptional collection of Cartier Jewels. This superb and extremely rare Burmese ruby weighing 25.59 carats is breathtaking in its extraordinary size and outstanding depth of colour. Untouched by heat treatment, the stone is of ‘pigeon’s blood’ red: the rarest and most sought- after of hues. LOT 502, Estimate: CHF 11,700,000 – 17,500,000 / US$ 12,000,000 – 18,000,000

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032 Jewellery Historian Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

Magnificent & Noble jewels at SOTHEBY'S Geneva

Magnificent diamond necklace, 'Ivresse', Cartier Designed as a cascade of diamonds, composed of brilliant-cut, pear- and marquise-shaped stones, the front accented with a floral motif and suspending a fringe of nine pear-shaped diamonds weighing 2.01, 3.21, 7.34, 12.04, 20.38, 10.25, 6.52, 3.42 and 2.25 carats, total diamond weight 190.77 carats, maximum length approximately 450mm, minimum length 420mm, signed Cartier, numbered, fitted case by Cartier.

LOT 501, estimate: CHF 5,850,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 9,750,000 / US$ 6,000,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 10,000,000

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034 Jewellery Historian Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

Magnificent & Noble jewels at SOTHEBY'S Geneva

Diamond tiara/necklace, 1880s From the Collection of the Earl of Mar and Kellie, a breath-taking diamond tiara / necklace (below), designed in the style of a ‘tiare russe’, dating back to the 1880s and drawing inspiration from the Russian kokoshniks - traditional fan- shaped head ornaments inspiredbythecockscomb.Thistiarawaswornbythe12thCountessofMaratthecoronationof King Edward VII in 1902. LOT 477, estimate CHF 145,000 – 285,000 / US$ 150,000 – 295,000

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036 Jewellery Historian Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

Magnificent & Noble jewels at SOTHEBY'S Geneva

Gem set and diamond demi-parure, Schlumberger, circa 1960 Comprising: a pair of bracelets and a pair of ear clips, each designed as marine creature, the scales set with pear-shaped sapphires and peridots and circular-cut pink sapphires, the tails and heads set with circular-cut diamonds, the eyes composed of cabochon emeralds, inner circumference of each bracelets approximately 155mm, each signed Schlumberger, clips unsigned, all with French assay marks. LOT 453, estimate: CHF 69,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 105,000 / US$ 70,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 110,000

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

Magnificent & Noble jewels at SOTHEBY'S Geneva

Diamond tiara/necklace, last quarter of the 19th century Composed of fleurs de lys and confronting scroll motifs, swing-set with a graduated row of twenty pear-shaped diamond, on a band composed of lozenge and trefoil motifs, set throughout with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, several small stones deficient, length of necklace approximately 485mm, inner circumference of tiara frame approximately 430mm, the tiara detaches to form a necklace and a bandeau, the bandeau detachable into two sections of approximately 310mm and 145mm. LOT 493, estimate CHF 295,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 485,000 / US$ 300,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 500,000

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new collection

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JACK VARTANIAN - S A O

P A U L O -

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Photo courtesy of JACK VARTANIAN © JACK VARTANIAN

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JACK VARTANIAN Tropical Collection

Since

1999,

created

Jack

fine

Vartanian

jewelry

has

collections

infused with a unique blend of tradition, sophistication and avantgarde design. Jack Vartanian brings a completely different collection into his design Portfolio. From the landscapes of his vacation time in Trancoso, in the Northeast of Brazil, he incorporates coconut leaf forms, which serves as his major inspiration. 15 statement pieces - Maxi and a charm necklace, bracelet, earring and ring - variations made in sterling silver with yellow gold vermeil, sterling silver with black rhodium and the highend limited edition of 18K white gold and encrusted diamonds.>

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>According to Jack, the shape of the coconut leaves together with the lightness of the sterling silver, offer a sensation of freedom and make the collection, even in the gold and diamond versions, a weightless and comfortable choice for the everyday wear. "This time around I wanted to get out of the rock n roll and architectonic vibes I wanted to focus into the organic shapes and forms. The coconut leaf always caught my attention in the blue background of the sky and sea ... I always liked to photograph it. Tropical is a collection that goes well with the Brazilian and international lifestyles, as everybody loves a remote beach, a chic

resort.

These

pieces

bring

lightness yet bold style in the everyday wear. I believe that this is a moment where people want to feel free and happy and the collection translates

Photo courtesy of JACK VARTANIAN ÂŠ JACK VARTANIAN

exactly this sensation."

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Photo courtesy of JACK VARTANIAN © JACK VARTANIAN

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Photo courtesy of JACK VARTANIAN © JACK VARTANIAN

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Photo courtesy of JACK VARTANIAN © JACK VARTANIAN

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Download your own copy

You can download every issue for your personal use. For further information visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com

introducing

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KULMALA - H E L S I N K I -

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KULMALA F I N N I S H

DE S I G N

Kulmala is located in Helsinki, the capital of Finland. The "Daughter of the Baltic" has been the Finnish capital since 1812. Today, Helsinki is an international metropolis while still retaining a small-town feel and the capital where design is present everywhere. Finnish design isn’t just something you see — it’s something

you

experience.

follows

you

everywhere and stays with you long after you’ve gone. Finnish design is characterised by minimalism and clean lines and Kulmala is definitely one of the best ambassadors of this contemporary Finnish design, which is loved worldwide for its purity.

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Photo courtesy of KULMALA © KULMALA

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It all started in the town of Orimattila as a little boy was constantly and curiously searching for treasures. On his endless adventures, everything from stones of different forms and colors to parts thrownâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;away attracted this little boy from an early age. Later, the strong interest led to studies in the field of goldsmithing, the traditionbound profession with its roots in the house of FabergĂŠ. After his studies, Mr. Pekka Kulmala joined a group of ambitious jewellers, called Union Design. This group arranged multiple exhibitions, visited international jewellery fairs and thought that no customer-work was too hard to be completed but rather, was a matter of good planning. Their thriving forces were passion, hard-working mentality and commitment. The time as a part of Union Design taught Mr. Kulmala the meaning of service and what it means to be able to recognize and understand customer needs and wants. However, strong personalities with a great amount of creativity tend not to be the ones to follow others but to lead. Eventually, Mr. Kulmala started his own jewellery shop, as he wanted to find out what he could do on his own. And so started the second chapter of his journey and a workshop carrying Mr. Kulmalaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name was born. Mr. Kulmala is not a man of compromises but aims at delivering the best quality in all aspects of making fine jewellery. The admiration of certain iconic ladies of the 19th century such as Mrs. Elizabeth Taylor, Catherine Deneuve and Anne Bancroft inspired him to look for elements of luxury to spice up the shop. Using the finest materials in the interior and treating the customers with most respectful manners soon resulted in a fine group of loyal customers. The one-man-business bloomed and in 2008, Mr. Kulmala joined forces with Niko Miettinen him becoming a partner in the company. The following spring they were able to hire their first employee and double the square meters of the shop. Today, Kulmala employs five people, Niko Miettinen remaining as an active board of member but not participating in the daily operative work. >

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Photo courtesy of KULMALA © KULMALA

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>The Kulmala custom-made jewellery and collections rely on the finest materials while the

design

process

often

starts

from

unorthodox precious stones. Their beauty and colors tell how they should be treated when setting them, meaning what is the right precious metal for them and how much material

should

used.

Added

the

personality and preferences of the customer, the piece of jewellery finds its form first through a round of sketching and finally, in the hands of Kulmalaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skilled goldsmiths. With the most ordinary and luxurious works, Kulmala aims at combining harmony with classical

features

and

timelessness.

Sometimes the stones are spread on the table and different compositions are tried out letting the experienced eye to catch the best ones.

The

prototyping

technical begin

planning

after

the

and right

composition has been chosen and finally, the piece of jewellery will be made.>

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> The Kulmala team is a straightforward and joyous group of personalities that underlines perfection and quality even to ridiculous extends. Therefore, the Kulmala slogan: Craftsmanship with Ridiculous Precision. The

working

environment

characterized

not

concentration

but

also

can

only laughter

serious and

sarcastic jokes. Mr. Kulmala is the head of design allowing the rest of the team to share their ideas and thoughts. >

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>Last

December

Kulmala

introduced

limited series of beryl jewellery. “A Finnish gemstone is a rarity. The Northern nature doesn’t yield lavishly. Our rough soil condenses its offerings in a raw and robust form. Crystallizes the essential and remains silent. Therefore, it is an exceptional opportunity for Kulmala to present a collection of jewels made of high quality beryl stones mined from the Kännätsalo Island on Lake Kivijärvi in Luumäki, Southeastern Finland. The jewel line is a true Northern rarity. The collection embodies the purity of rare Finnish gems, the strength of Finnish design and the sincerity of Finnish craftsmanship.”.>

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>Although Kulmala jewellery has a special place in the heart of many women, this January a series of rings for men was launched. In the design process, Kulmala wanted to achieve sacrificing

masculine the

character

underlining

without

elements

Kulmala, such as quality and perfectly finished surfaces. A group of men was asked to choose five photographs of interest without giving any further instructions. The results were inspiring. There were pictures of cars from way back, emotion-evoking paintings, bamboo woods, breaking a cargo ship, a close detail of fractals in a broccoli and pictures showing details from aircrafts. With these pictures, Mr. Kulmala was able to dive into the world of interesting things as perceived by these men. He investigated the forms and delicately borrowed some ending up with four beautiful rings for men. One of them harnesses the idea of a signet ring, forms from the urban life added. Another one combines an aircraft engine with a rope.

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Cover story

cover story

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cover story

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THEO FENNELL

Anything but conventional

Founded in 1982, since when it has been renowned for its imaginative, eclectic, unusual and amazingly crafted pieces. While Theo Fennell's jewels are crafted using traditional materials, they are anything but conventional. Theo is famous for his extraordinary, priceless sketchbooks, filled with beautiful and ornate designs. The sketches take their inspiration from a cornucopia of sources, from the ruins of ancient Greece to the Rock â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Roll hall of fame, from graveyards to classic portraits; sketches of his travels and of random ideas for designs that appear in a moment. These early drawings form the basis of the design process. The extraordinarily talented team in his studio, which has such a broad spectrum of skills and imagination work with Theo to start the journey of concept to reality. Start discovering the world of Theo Fennell

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THEO FENNELL Anything but conventional

Theo Fennell is one of today's premier jewellery designers and his handcrafted masterpieces grace serious collections and famous bodies and tables all over the world. His unique jewellery and silverware are both distinctive

and

inspirational.

His

pieces

incorporate eclectic, quirky and beautifully detailed design with great craftsmanship. The combination of modern design with classical, romantic tradition makes his style instantly recognisable. Theo takes great pride in being involved in every phase with his brilliant studio and workshop teams so that the Theo Fennell vision is realised to the last detail. "Jewellery should be something emotionally engaging and life-enhancing," says Theo. "Most of all it should make you feel really good wearing it." >

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"IjotdownideasconstantlyandthingsIsee.Sketching isaverygoodcatalysttogetone'sbrainworking.There is something about sketching that is very intimate- the moment you start taking photos it creates the first degree of separation between you and the object. Sketching, especially in ink where no changes can be made, makes you look more carefully." Theo Fennell

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>Intelligent, witty design, quirky ideas and superb craftsmanship are the cornerstones of Theo’s philosophy and, to ensure the highest quality, he insists that the majority of his jewellery and silver is made by craftsmen he has worked with for many years. Theo Fennell’s workshop is situated above the Fulham Road flagship store in the heart of London. Theo and his incredibly talented team of designers and craftsmen take great pride in being involved in every phase, so that the Theo Fennell vision is realised to the last detail. ‘It is the marriage of design and craftsmanship with beautiful and rare materials that gives romance and prominence to proper jewellery and silver. I believe jewellery should really mean something and not be just a statement of wealth or fashion says Theo Fennell.>

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>His passion for invention, craftsmanship and originality remain the ethos of the business. Theo Fennell is about more than just jewellery and silver. It is about the personal touch - a unique approach to every piece that passes through the workshops. The ultimate in craftsmanship and design and extraordinary imagination inspiring

has

created

collections.

unrivalled

“Real

and

jewellery

something emotionally engaging and lifeenhancing ...... it should make you feel

Photo courtesy of THEO FENNELL © THEO FENNELL

quiveringly good!”

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"Jewellery should be something talismanic and precious, beautifully made to last and not at the ephemeral whim of fashion: it should be truly owned. Jewellery has that power - it is a very romantic, sexy and emotional thing." Theo Fennell

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“Jewellery and silverware should be engaging and often romantic as well as beautiful. Above all, it should give a thrill of pleasure every time it is looked at or worn.” Theo Fennell

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"Everyone I take upstairs to the workshop to see how our pieces are made has been astonished and often, profoundly moved by the tremendous work andlovethathasgoneintoeachpiece.ThisiswhatI alwayshopereallygoodjewellerywillachieve,and the reaction to our designs is a testament to the skills of the amazing team here."

Photo courtesy of THEO FENNELL ÂŠ THEO FENNELL

Theo Fennell

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instagram.com/ jewellery_his torian

a new must

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NIKOS KOULIS Medusa Collection

Nikos Koulis presented at Baselworld 2015,

the

new,

monothematic

collection Medusa, based on snakes and their rich symbolisms. Named after the Greek mythological legend, Medusa - the mermaid with living snakes in her head, who acts as a powerful guardian - in this collection, Koulis evolves the snake pattern in a daring way with surprising colors and elaborate details. Rings featuring enamel in fierce colors, combined with diamonds in various cuts, amethysts, sapphires, emeralds and rubies, unusual gold ear cuffs with white

and

black

diamonds,

baguettes, emeralds and turquoises, as well as dramatic bracelets and chokers with which make an instant sensation. All pieces reflect a restless spirit and create a rare bond with their owners, who want to wear them all the time. At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to showcase some pieces of this amazing new collection.

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The unique breathtaking beauty of gems

Emerald

by Eva Kountouraki

“Are” was the god-creator of all life for the Muzos, an ancient –now-extinct – indigenous Colombian population. He created the fauna and flora, and all the spectacular mountains, valleys and rivers that covered this beautiful part of the Earth. Then he created two humans, a male named Tena and his female companion named Fura. He taught them how to take care of the land and let them live free and happily in this paradise, with one rule to respect; they should be true and faithful to each other; if not, they would age and eventually die.

by the pain of losing her, Tena took his own life by stabbing himself. Fura, inconsolable, cried ceaselessly for three days over her dead companion’s body. Her tears soaked deep in the ground and became shiny green crystals.

Emeralds are one of the so-called “big three” of the gemstone world. They are the most famous green gemstone of all times, everywhere in the world. Actually the green colour of high quality emeralds is the absolute hue against which all the other green gemstones are compared. The best colour for an emerald is a medium to Tena and Fura lived carefree and ageless for medium-dark tone slightly bluish Green with many years until another man arrived to their vivid saturation, as seen in the best examples land. His name was Zarbi and he was in of some Colombian crystals. Colombia is search of a flower that would be the known for being the traditional source of the panacea for all illnesses. He asked for Fura’s finest emeralds of the world. Of course, this help, so she followed him in the forest looking does not mean that all the Colombian for this plant. Fura fell in love with this young material is of the highest quality, or that there man and was unfaithful to her companion, are not any fine specimens coming from which gave start to her aging process other sources. Beautiful emeralds today are immediately. Realizing her mistake, Fura also found in Zambia and Zimbabwe, returned to Tena who saw her aging and Pakistan and Afghanistan, Russia and Brazil, understood that she would soon die. Blinded among others. > Jewellery Historian 141

Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS ÂŠ ADLER JOAILLIERS

> Emerald is also one of the most expensive gemstones in the market. This is partly due to their fame, but in reality, what makes them so precious is their rarity. Beryllium, one of the elements of emeraldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s basic chemistry is itself a rare material found in limited quantities only in certain types of rocks. Chromium, which is responsible for the intense green colour of the gem, and also vanadium, which is the colour causing element in some emeralds, is found in completely different rock types. So, since these elements that are essential for emerald creation are found in different environments, unusual geologic conditions and particular processes, like major earth movements and the rising of super- heated waters, are required, all at the same time and space. Emeralds are ancient.. The oldest known source of emeralds is the Cleopatra mine in Egypt, the source of the Pharaohsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; beautiful gems, some of which we encounter in museums today. Although the ancient civilizations like the ancient Egyptians, the Aztecs and the Incas, the ancient Greeks and Romans, the Indian and Arabic populations, all praised and adored emeralds, their gems often looked quite different from the modern ones we find in our markets today. This is due to the technological applications that we use today in order to clean, cut, polish and many times enhance our gemstones. >

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Emeralds are one of the so-called “big three” of the gemstone world. They are the most famous green gemstone of all times, everywhere in the world.

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“Emeralds are ancient. The oldest known source of emeralds is the Cleopatra mine in Egypt, the source of the Pharaohs’ beautiful gems, some of which we encounter

in museums today. ”

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> Emeralds are usually included with a variety of clarity characteristics. Unlike many other gemstones, the inclusions in emeralds are generally accepted, as they are almost always present -emeralds with no eye-visible inclusions are extremely rarewithout having a negative effect on the gem’s attractiveness and marketability. The inclusions in emeralds were given the name “jardin”, French for garden, as they can resemble a flourishing garden in the green heart of the gems. Often, emeralds contain internal fissures that can be reflective, so they may interfere with the way the gem absorbs and transmits light. A common practice used in order to make these fissures less visible, is an enhancement method called fracture-filling, or simply oiling, which involves the injection of special oils or resins inside those fissures which makes them less obvious to the naked eye. Emeralds today are fashioned in all shapes and cutting styles, ranging from traditional cuts to intricate carvings. However, emeralds are most often cut in a shape especially created for them, the emeraldcut. This is a usually rectangular shaped step cutting style with beveled corners, with proportions that allow the emeralds to show off with all their powerful beauty. 146 Jewellery Historian

“Emerald is the birthstone of May and its rich green colour reminds us of spring and natural rebirth and renewal. "

Emeralds throughout the history have been used as symbols of sincerity and kindness and they were the gemstone dedicated to the goddess of beauty, Venus. Ancient civilizations often gave emerald supernatural powers; they considered emeralds capable of giving the owners the ability to predict the future and to remain emotionally, physically and mentally healthy, as their emerald would improve their immunity and also strengthen their memory and intelligence. Emerald is the birthstone of May and its rich green colour reminds us of spring and natural rebirth and renewal. Pliny the Elder, in his Natural History of the first century AD, states regarding the emerald: “Indeed, no stone has a color that is more delightful to the eye, for, whereas the sight fixes itself with avidity upon the green grass and the foliage of the trees, we have all the more pleasure in looking upon the emerald, there being no gem in existence more intense than this.” One thing is sure; emerald’s magical power is that with its beauty and its deep colour it is able to create strong and positive emotions to the beholder. And the future seen through an emerald crystal is, well, a brighter one!

“Emeralds throughout history have been used as symbols of sincerity and kindness and they were the gemstone dedicated to the goddess of beauty, Venus.”

Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.

Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaborationwiththeItalianbranchof GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world.

Eva Kountouraki

At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.

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spotlight

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Y O R K -

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ANNA HU Emily Blunt & Uma Thurman wear Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie to the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala

Emily Blunt chose to wear Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie’s

Orchid

Earrings

Sapphire

and

Moonlight Waltz Ring. These one-of-kind earrings feature two royal blue sapphires weighing 3.95 carats and 4.56 carats, paraiba tourmalines, rose cut white diamonds, and round brilliant cut white diamonds set in white gold.Total weight: 26.57 carats. $150,000. ( left ) This exquisite one-of-a-kind ring features the finest moonstones

weighing

8.22

carats,

colored

sapphires, rose cut white diamonds and round brilliant cut white diamonds set in white gold. $30,000 ( left ) Uma Thurman, chose these earrings are from Anna’s iconic Turandot collection, which is inspired by Puccini’s opera of the same name. They feature rare emerald beads from Panjshir weighing 63.97 carats, white diamonds, rose cut white diamonds and onyx. Total weight: 77.39 carats. $250,000. ( next page ) >

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> Anna Hu founded her namesake brand, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie, at the age of 30 and opened her first flagship boutique in New York’s Plaza Hotel in 2008. She has since opened flagships in Shanghai’s renowned Bund area and most recently at the luxurious new Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Taipei. She is the only Asian American jewelry designer to work exclusively with French-trained artisans to create oneof-a-kind artworks featuring the world’s rarest gems. Highly educated in the United States with degrees from Colombia University, the Gemological Institute of America, Parsons School of Design, and NY’s Fashion Institute of Technology, Anna is as much a scholar as she is an artist and her exquisite designs reflect that unique sophistication. Her work combines Eastern and Western influences, often inspired by classical music and nature, with particular reference to Impressionism and Art Nouveau. Anna presented her first global exhibition at the Louvre’s Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris in July 2012 and launched her first book, “Symphony of Jewels, op. 1,” published by The Vendome Press and Thames & Hudson, that September. It features 100 pieces from her illustrious body of work. In 2013, she broke and still holds the world auction record for the highest price paid for a contemporary jewelry designer (Christie’s Magnificent Jewels, Geneva). Anna is recognized for her artistic and technical innovation and

has

received

awards

both

nationally

and

internationally. Her jewelry has been worn by Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, Natalie Portman, Uma Thurman, Scarlett Johansson, Emily Blunt, Drew Barrymore, Oprah Winfrey, the acclaimed contemporary artist Cindy Sherman, and the Queen of Bhutan. She’s been featured in The Wall Street Journal, W, ELLE, The New York Times, VOGUE, InStyle, Robb Report, The Financial Times, Vanity Fair, and other leading national and international publications.

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Our Faves In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life.

( For address book, see page 178 )

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SPRING SHOPPING

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- Our Faves -

JACK VARTANIAN

MINIMAL

ELENA VOTSI

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- Our Faves -

LAUREN X KHOO FANOURAKIS

GORALSKA AS29 by Audrey Savransky

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- Our Faves -

LYDIA COURTEILLE

SCULPTURAL

MAGERIT JOYAS

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- Our Faves -

SYLVIE CORBELIN FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

MOUSSON ATELIER

THEO FENNELL

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- Our Faves -

ZOLOTAS

DIAMONDS

BAYCO

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- Our Faves -

DJULA KULMALA

GORALSKA

ADLER

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- Our Faves -

FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

ANIMALIER

MOUSSON ATELIER

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- Our Faves -

LYDIA COURTEILLE CARRERA Y CARRERA

GUMUCHIAN

PASQUALE BRUNI

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- Our Faves -

THEO FENNELL

NATURE

MORPHﾃ右

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- Our Faves -

GORALSKA

LYDIA COURTEILLE

ANA DE COSTA ELENA SYRAKA Jewellery Historian

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- Our Faves -

KATHERINE JETTER

ROUGH

JORGE ADELER

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- Our Faves -

SYLVIE CORBELIN DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

KARA ROSS

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- Our Faves -

JACK VARTANIAN

GOLD

ILIAS LALAOUNIS

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- Our Faves -

CARLA AMORIM

ELEUTERIO

DJULA

ZOLOTAS

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- Our Faves -

JEWELLERY THEATRE

PASQUALE BRUNI

COLOR

OMI PRIVÉ

LYDIA COURTEILLE

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- Our Faves -

NIKOS KOULIS

BRUMANI

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facebook. com/j ewelryhis torian

esthĂ¨te Une personne qui considĂ¨re l'art comme une valeur essentielle

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One of a kind 18ct Yellow Gold & Diamond Bangle by Theo Fennell

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address book brands featured in this issue ADLER www.adler-joailliers.com

JEWELLERY THEATRE www.jewellerytheatre.com

ANNA HU www.anna-hu.com

JORGE ADELER www.jorgeadeler.com

AS29 by Audrey Savransky www.as29.com

KARA ROSS www.kararossny.com

AVAKIAN www.avakian.com

KATHERINE JETTER www.katherinejetter.com

ANA DE COSTA www.anadecosta.com

KULMALA www.kultaseppakulmala.fi

BAYCO www.bayco.com

LAUREN X KHOO www.laurenxkhoo.com

BRUMANI www.brumani.com

LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com

CARLA AMORIM www.carlaamorim.com.br

MAGERIT JOYAS www.mageritjoyas.com

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH www.diamondintherough.com

MARIA KONDAKOVA www.mariakondakova.com

DJULA www.djula.fr

MARTIN KATZ www.martinkatz.com

ELENA VOTSI www.elenavotsi.com

MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com

ELEUTERIO www.eleuteriojewels.com

MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru

FABERGÉ www.faberge.com

NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr

FANOURAKIS www.fanourakis.gr

OMI GEMS www.omigems.com

FARAH KHAN www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com

OMI PRIVÉ www.omiprive.com

GORALSKA JOAILLERIE www.goralska.com

PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com

GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com

SYLVIE CORBELLIN www.sylvie-corbelin.com

ILIAS LALAOUNIS www.iliaslalaounis.com

THEO FENNELL www.theofennell.com

JACK VARTANIAN www.jackvartanian.com

ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr

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