JEWELLERY HISTORIAN #30 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

30 THE

BEST

KEPT

SECRET

THE

WORLD

LUXYRY

BARE FINE JEWELRY BARE's designer, Dries Criel, reminds us what Thucydides once said : “ The secret of happiness is freedom. The secret of freedom is courage.”

MAGNIFICENT & NOBLE AT SOTHEBY’S

This May in Geneva, Sotheby’s will oﬀer for sale two masterpieces epitomizing the craftsmanship of key periods in the history of Jewellery.

SARAH ZHUANG

To celebrate the spring season, Sarah Zhuang Jewellery launches Fantasy Garden collection. Drawing inspiration from the magical moments of insects fluttering in the air, this collection portrays a modern woman with an adventurous and outgoing personality.

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

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Zircon is a very important mineral for many reasons. Eva Kountouraki introduces us to the breathtaking universe of gemstones and an exceptional gemstone,,, Zircon !

CONTENTS

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com

FOUNDER | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA)

ASSOCIATE EDITOR | Christina Rodopoulou CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE | Panayiotis Simopoulos

COVER | Elquest / Shutterstock .com

All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CONTENTS

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IN BLOOM

LOUISA WESTWOOD

Just in time for spring, Sotheby’s announces a selling exhibition celebrating the history and evolution of the flower motif in jewelry design, from the 19th century to the present day.

Exclusivity, craftsmanship and original design underpin the work of Louisa Westwood, a London-based, independent designer-maker of luxury, fine jewellery.

BILOÉ & DEVOUCOUX

SKELETON X

The Monaco Jewellery House Sandra Biloé Joaillerie Monte-Carlo, supports the Castle of Fontainebleau through an unprecedented project of High Jewellry created for the restoration of the famous “Fer à Cheval” staircase.

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SEDUCTION, GRACE & FEMININITY

SHOWCASE

Enchant, inspire and transform each details in a remarkable style! That's the search and fulfillment of the designer Ana Albuquerque, who signs exclusively all Goldesign's collections.

Previously known as OUR FAVES, this new column is a window to a new world of craftsmanship, beauty and creativity. Discover amazing jewellery and timepieces from our social media.

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GEMGENÈVE INTERNATIONAL SHOW

A FRAGMENT OF HISTORY

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The SKELETON X, a new Manufacture movement that lays bare its audacious technology in an exquisite exhibition of fine watchmaking’s most challenging technique

Dubini is a fusion of ancient Italian craftmanship with a singular, contemporary aesthetic. Distinctive, feminine pieces for the modern woman. Every piece has a story, no two are the same.

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GemGenève, The Geneva International Gem and Jewellery  Gets Ready to Welcome Dealers, Collectors and Connoisseurs for a Second Year.

EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LETTER

EDITOR’S LETTER My letter was ready few weeks ago, but after all the latest events I decided to delete it and replace it with the poem “Angoisses et autres” of Max Jacob. J’ai peur que Tu ne t’offenses lorsque je mets en balance dans mon cœur et dans mes œuvres ton amour dont je me prive et l’autre amour dont je meurs Qu’écriras-tu en ces vers ou bien Dieu que tu déranges Dieu les prêtres et les anges ou bien tes amours d’enfer et leurs agonies gourmandes Justes rochers vieux molochs je pars je reviens j’approche de mon accessible mal mes amours sont dans ma poche je vais pleurer dans une barque Sur les remparts d’Édimbourg tant de douleur se marie ce soir avec tant d’amour que ton cheval Poésie en porte une voile noire. Max Jacob (1876-1944) was a French poet, painter, writer, and critic. The famous quote "The truth is always new" was attributed to Jacob and this is what this issue is about. This issue is about truth. It is inspired of this beautiful text by Max Jacob that talks about demons, love, poetry and all those that we don’t dare to talk about.

FOUNDER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JEWELLERY HISTORIAN MAGAZINE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | NEW FLORA FINE JEWELRY PIECES

GUCCI

New Flora fine jewelry pieces Page 7

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | NEW FLORA FINE JEWELRY PIECES

GUCCI New Gucci Flora Fine Jewelry Pieces B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A

The House is extending its Gucci Flora fine jewelry line with a selection of new, diamond- embellished pieces in 18kt white gold. Inspired by the power and the beauty of nature, the latest designs all display the Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most recognizable floral pattern. Comprising bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings, the collection showcases a mix of feminine elements such as flowers and bows, set with white diamonds and decorated with pearls. The GG detail adds an unmistakably Gucci touch. Highlights include two necklaces and two bracelets with delicate chains. One of the necklaces and one of the bracelets are accented with pearl beads. The new rings include a between-the-finger ring, finished with the GG detail and a dainty flower motif, and a diamond-studded floral design. Ideal for creating a chic asymmetrical look, three pairs of on-trend mismatched earrings also feature in the new collection. All three designs artistically combine diamond-encrusted flowers with the GG detail, and the closures of two pairs are enhanced with pearls. Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci is one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading luxury fashion brands, with a renowned reputation for creativity, innovation and Italian craftsmanship. Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories that owns a portfolio of powerful luxury, sports and lifestyle brands.

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | NEW FLORA FINE JEWELRY PIECES

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | NEW FLORA FINE JEWELRY PIECES

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Photo courtesy of Jez Timms | Unsplash

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | HIGH JEWELLERY FOR HORSES

BILOÃ&#x2030; & DEVOUCOUX High Jewellery for Horses Page 15

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | HIGH JEWELLERY FOR HORSES

BILOÉ & DEVOUCOUX High Jewellery for Horses BY CHRISTIAN GOUGENHEIN

The Monaco Jewellery House Sandra Biloé Joaillerie Monte-Carlo, has chosen to support the Castle of Fontainebleau through an unprecedented project of High Jewellry created for the restoration of the famous “Fer à Cheval” staircase. With the support of the city of Fontainebleau, the project will also highlight the development of the Military Horse Museum which should be installed closed to the Senarmont horse caroussel, classified as a historical monument, depending on the Military School of Horse Riding. The founder, Sandra Biloé, “bellifontaine”, dressage rider, decided to create a collection of high jewellery for horses called "Fontainebleau", in partnership with the internationally renowned luxury saddler manufacturer: Devoucoux. This project aims to promote the international influence of the city of Fontainebleau “the french Horse City” through the evocation of its name on prestigious horse ornaments. Part of the sales of the jewelery will be donated to the Castle of Fontainebleau to contribute to the restoration of the staircase, symbol of the majestic imperial city. This jewelry collection will also reconnect with the history of horse tradition in Fontainebleau, a real showcase for equestrian arts. The launch and presentation of the first piece of fine jewelry, in harmony with the exceptional saddle created by Jean-Michel Devoucoux saddler craftsman since 1985, will be held in the castle during an exceptional event in the Castle of Fontainebleau on September 14, 2019.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | HIGH JEWELLERY FOR HORSES

The greatest personalities of the horse world will be honored with the support of École des Mines ParisTech and the privileged participation of the cavalry of the Military School of Horse Riding of Fontainebleau. The Haras de Malleret whose passion and shared value are the pursuit of excellence, will present the piece of fine jewellery and the exceptional saddle on one of their sublime horse, ridden by an international dressage rider. The event will be covered by the prestigious magazines Monaco Madame and Jewelery Historian. The dinner cocktail will be made by Planet Sushi Fontainebleau, whose manager Adel Sefiane is a member of the Gentlemen-Riders Club, amateur jockey and jumper CSO. This evening will mark the renaissance of the horse "King" in Fontainebleau and strengthen the historical and cultural links between the Principality of Monaco and Fontainebleau. It will launch the creation of a joint brand between the Sandra Biloé Joaillerie High La Maison de Joaillerie Monégasque Sandra Biloé Joaillerie Monte-Carlo, a choisi de soutenir le Château de Fontainebleau à travers un projet inédit de Haute Joaillerie destiné à la restauration de l’escalier en Fer à Cheval.

Jewelry House Monte-Carlo and the international saddler Devoucoux.

Avec la collaboration de la ville de Fontainebleau, le projet mettra également en lumière la création du Musée du cheval militaire dont est à l’étude l’installation dans les galeries du manège Sénarmont de l’Ecole Militaire d’Equitation, chef d’œuvre classé monument historique. La fondatrice Sandra Biloé, Bellifontaine, passionnée d’équitation et cavalière, a décidé de créer une collection de Haute Joaillerie pour chevaux baptisée « Fontainebleau », en partenariat avec le sellier de renom international : Devoucoux. Ce projet a pour objectif de favoriser le rayonnement international de la ville de Fontainebleau grâce à l’évocation de son nom sur les prestigieuses parures. Une partie des ventes des pièces de Haute Joaillerie sera reversée au Château de Fontainebleau pour contribuer à la restauration de l’escalier en Fer à Cheval, symbole majestueux de la ville. Cette collection de Haute Joaillerie permettra également de renouer avec l’histoire hippique de Fontainebleau, véritable écrin pour les arts équestres. Le lancement et la présentation de la première pièce de Haute Joaillerie fabriquée dans l’un des prestigieux atelier de la Place Vendôme, en harmonie avec la selle d’exception crée par Jean-Michel Devoucoux artisan sellier depuis 1985, se fera au sein du Château de Fontainebleau lors d’une soirée exceptionnelle le 14 septembre 2019. Les plus grandes personnalités du monde équestre seront à l’honneur avec le soutien de l’Ecole des Mines ParisTech et la participation privilégiée de la cavalerie de l’Ecole Militaire d’Equitation de Fontainebleau. Le Haras de Malleret, dont la passion et les valeurs partagées sont la recherche de l’excellence, présentera la pièce de Haute Joaillerie et la selle exceptionnelle sur l’un de leurs sublimes chevaux, monté par une cavalière internationale. L’événement sera couvert par les prestigieux magazines Monaco Madame et Jewellery Historian. Le cocktail dînatoire sera réalisé par Planet Sushi Fontainebleau dont le gérant Adel Sefiane, est Membre du Club des Gentlemen-Riders, jockey amateur et cavalier CSO. Cette soirée marquera la renaissance du cheval « Roi » à Fontainebleau et renforcera les liens historiques et culturels entre la Principauté de Monaco et Fontainebleau. Elle lancera la création d’une marque commune entre la Maison de Haute Joaillerie Sandra Biloé Joaillerie Monte-Carlo et le sellier international Devoucoux. La Maison de Joaillerie Monégasque Sandra Biloé Joaillerie Monte-Carlo, a choisi de soutenir le Château de Fontainebleau à travers un projet inédit de Haute Joaillerie destiné à la restauration de l’escalier en Fer à Cheval.

Le lancement et la présentation de la première pièce de Haute Joaillerie fabriquée dans l’un des prestigieux atelier de la Place Vendôme, en harmonie avec la selle d’exception crée par Jean-Michel Devoucoux artisan sellier depuis 1985, se fera au sein du Château de Fontainebleau lors d’une soirée exceptionnelle le 14 septembre 2019. Les plus grandes personnalités du monde équestre seront à l’honneur avec le soutien de l’Ecole des Mines ParisTech et la participation privilégiée de la cavalerie de l’Ecole Militaire d’Equitation de Fontainebleau. Le Haras de Malleret, dont la passion et les valeurs partagées sont la recherche de l’excellence, présentera la pièce de Haute Joaillerie et la selle exceptionnelle sur l’un de leurs sublimes chevaux, monté par une cavalière internationale. L’événement sera couvert par les prestigieux magazines Monaco Madame et Jewellery Historian. Le cocktail dînatoire sera réalisé par Planet Sushi Fontainebleau dont le gérant Adel Sefiane, est Membre du Club des Gentlemen-Riders, jockey amateur et cavalier CSO. Cette soirée marquera la renaissance du cheval « Roi » à Fontainebleau et renforcera les liens historiques et culturels entre la Principauté de Monaco et Fontainebleau. Elle lancera la création d’une marque commune entre la Maison de Haute Joaillerie Sandra Biloé Joaillerie Monte-Carlo et le sellier international Devoucoux.

Sandra Biloé Joaillerie Monte-Carlo, 74, Boulevard d’Italie, 98000 Monaco Principauté.

Tél : +33 6 37 94 56 65 - www.biloejoailleriemontecarlo.com Email : biloejoailleriemontecarlo@gmail.com

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Membre de la Chambre Monégasque de la Joaillerie et de l’Horlogerie – Membre de la Fédération des Entreprises Monégasques FEDEM – Mécène du Château de Fontainebleau.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | HIGH JEWELLERY FOR HORSES

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Photo courtesy of OWN YOUR STORY Â© OWN YOUR STORY

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | LAUNCH OF NEW LINE

OWN YOUR STORY Launch of fine jewelry line Page 19

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | LAUNCH OF NEW LINE

OWN YOUR STORY Launch of fine jewelry line B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A

Established and coveted Turkish fine

The Cosmos is bursting with a celestial

jewelry brand, OWN Your Story (IG:

splendor which manifests itself

@ownthejewelry), announces its

through dazzling gold and diamonds,

launch in specialty retailers across the

while Linear focuses on elegant, clean

US, Canada, UK and online, for Spring

lines and subtlety. Geometry comes in

2019. The intricate, luxury jewelry

third with its juxtaposition styles,

brand is built upon the aesthetic vision

allowing the wearer to see things in a

of a design team with many years of

different way. Flow works with 14K

experience in creating accessories

gold and manipulates it into curved

collections for top retailers with a keen

and softer, overlapping edges, giving

sense for translating fashion-inspired

off a more fluid approach to jewelry.

trends into timeless jewelry. OWN

Neo Pearl brings to the forefront one

Your Story is now bringing its 3

of nature’s miracles, meshing modern,

generations of high-level hand

bold design with precious pearls,

craftsmanship and unparalleled

while Nature contains elements of

experience with gold and diamonds to

leaves, butterflies and Mother Earth’s

these new markets for the first time

magic. Last in the new collection is

ever.

Day to Night, a transitional, day to play

Boasting a melange of desirable pieces, OWN Your Story brings to life a sophisticated, strong and elegant

ra n g e w i t h g o l d a n d d ra m at i c diamonds readying you for whatever your day or evening may hold.

a p p e a l t h ro u g h 1 4 K g o l d a n d

Helmed by brother and sister duo,

gemstones, focused primarily on

Tina Farhat and Yomi Azar, the

white, champagne, cognac and black

family-owned business breathes a

diamonds. Describing a woman much

fresh-feeling authenticity to the fine

the same way, the brand looks to the

jewelry world. The jewelry is designed

feminine form for inspiration and

strategically with an affordable luxury

creates jewelry as unique and distinct

pricepoint in mind – bridging the

as her.

m a r ke t s o f fin e j e w e l r y a n d a

The current collection is made up of seven groups, which offers a range of

must-have accessory to compliment fashionable RTW.

delicate pieces, in a variety of themes.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | LAUNCH OF NEW LINE

NYC-based Creative Director, Tina

for exceptional, one-of-a-kind, gold

Farhat, comments: “There is no force

and diamond pieces. After decades

more powerful than a woman who

spent sourcing the highest quality

recognizes her own potential. A

diamonds at the best prices, OWN, as

woman truly comes into her own when

we know it today, launched in Turkey

she realizes and celebrates her

in 2012 as a covetable collection of

dazzling ability to lead, to inspire and

gold and fine gemstone jewelry and

to create the future. We design our

now 6 years later makes its North

jewelry to replicate that sense of

American debut.

coming into oneself – this is jewelry that is personal, that a woman wears as a reminder of her own value in this world.” She adds, “We’re thrilled to introduce our family’s passion for jewelry to the American market – it feels right to share my own story and

Keeping the woman in mind throughout the entire concept-to-design process, the brand has managed to weave an empowering aura into its jewelry, that inspires every wearer.

encourage other women to do the

Backed by talent spanning three

same.”

generations, OWN celebrates and

OWN Your Story will be available to buy at select retailers such as Bloomingdales (in stores and online), The brand uses recycled gold where

draws inspiration from the complexities of a woman herself – nurturing each and every detail that makes her unique and distinctive, and in turn, turning it into a wearable piece

possible and all diamonds are

of art.

conflict-free.

http://ownyourstory.us/

About OWN Your Story

IG: @ownthejewelry

Starting out as diamond wholesalers in Izmir, Turkey, OWN Your Story, has a plethora of knowledge in precious metals, diamonds, and intricate craftsmanship. Selling jewelry aided in building the foundation of knowledge the company needed to eventually e v o l v e i n t o a m a s t e r, l u x u r y manufacturer. Relocating to Istanbul, t h e b ra n d w e n t o n t o re c e i v e numerous DeBeers sponsored awards

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Photo courtesy of OWN YOUR STORY Â© OWN YOUR STORY

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Photo courtesy of OWN YOUR STORY Â© OWN YOUR STORY

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Photo courtesy of OWN YOUR STORY Â© OWN YOUR STORY

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Photo courtesy of OWN YOUR STORY Â© OWN YOUR STORY

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | LAUNCH OF NEW LINE

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Photo courtesy of OWN YOUR STORY Â© OWN YOUR STORY

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | LAUNCH OF NEW LINE

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Photo courtesy of OWN YOUR STORY Â© OWN YOUR STORY

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | LAUNCH OF NEW LINE

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Photo courtesy of OWN YOUR STORY Â© OWN YOUR STORY

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | LAUNCH OF NEW LINE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

GEMGENÈVE The Geneva International Show Page 29

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

GEMGENÈVE GemGenève, The Geneva International Gem and Jewellery  Gets Ready to Welcome Dealers, Collectors and Connoisseurs for a Second Year BY CHRISTIAN GOUGENHEIN

This year’s campaign, “Find” and “Feel” invites

As last year, the show brings together the

visitors to discover the renowned dealers,

world’s leading antique Jewellery dealers,

merchants and impassioned experts who

g e m m e rc h a n t s , d i a m a n t a i re s , p e a r l

make up the heart and soul of the jewellery

specialists, and contemporary jewellers,

world

offering some of the rarest and finest quality

GemGenève, the pioneering, new-generation gem and Jewellery show, prepares to open its doors at Palexpo, Geneva, for the second year, on May 9th (May 9th-12th). The first of its kind in the world, the first show to be organized by dealers and merchants for their fellow international dealers and merchants, GemGenève aims to attract both trade and private buyers, tapping into today’s spirit of transparency and accessibility.

merchandise on the market today. Alongside the renowned dealers – many acknowledged experts in their field - are the top gemological laboratories, specialist booksellers, the Designer Vivarium, showcasing a curated group of individual, contemporary designer jewellers from around the world, an Emerging Talents section, featuring the work of up-and-coming Swiss designers, and a display of work by students at Geneva’s celebrated art and design school HEAD. The

Building on the resounding success of last

students took part in a project focused on

year’s inaugural show, GemGenève has

coloured gemstones, supported by

expanded and improved and now comprises

GemGenève exhibitor Charles Abouchar.

some 210 exhibitors in all, from countries across the globe, including Taiwan this year. At the same time, the founders are determined to maintain the unique warm and welcoming atmosphere, the intimacy of the show and the consistent high quality of

At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to introduce you the exceptional work of some of the exhibitors at GemGenève. We hope you enjoy their exceptional work as much as we do!

jewels and gems on offer. The show has a

09-12 May 2019 - Palexpo Geneva - 2nd

slightly different layout, which will include

edition

more lounge areas, for meeting and relaxing, and responding to demand, a far more extensive educational programme of talks, seminars, discussions and handling sessions has been carefully orchestrated.

Instagram: @GemGeneve Facebook: GemGenève www.gemgeneve.com

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © ALEXANDER LAUT

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Alexander Laut

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © DEHRES

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Dehres

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © DIACOLOR

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Diacolor

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © FAERBER COLLECTION

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Faerber Collection

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © HENN

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Henn

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © HOROVITZ&TOTAH

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Horovitz & Totah

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © HOUSE OF GEMS

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House of Gems

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © JACK REISS

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Jack Reiss

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © JEWELS EMPORIUM

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Jewels Emporium

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © JOSEPH GAD

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Joseph Gad

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © L J WEST

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

L J West

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © LOTUS ARTS DE VIVRE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Lotus Arts de Vivre

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © MORELLE DAVIDSON

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Morelle Davidson

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © NELI GEMS

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Neli Gems

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © PAT SALING

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Pat Saling

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © PAUL FISHER

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Paul Fisher

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © WILLIAM GOLDBERG

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

William Goldberg

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Photo courtesy of GEMGENÈVE © YAFA SIGNED JEWELS

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

Yafa Signed Jewels

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

find.

9-12 May 2019 Palexpo – Geneva EXHIBITORS

GEMGENEVE.COM #GEMGENEVE #FINDFEEL

feel. Page 49

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | GEMGENÈVE

0-9 4G’s Trading A

A. G. Color

G. Arabov Diamonds

M. Vainer Ltd.

E13

Shoham

Galerie Montaigne

Maharaja Gems

I13

Sima G. Ltd

SSEF

Steven Neckman

C6 J6

Garaude

Maison A. Vernain

Gemburi

Malca Amit

L13

Alain Boite

Gemerald Ltd.

J15

Marc Princ

Sunlight Jewelers Ltd.

GGTL Laboratories

K10

Marcel Poncet SAS

SWD Import Export Co., Ltd.

GIA Show Service Laboratory

K12

McTeigue NY 1895

B12

H13

American Gemological Laboratories (AGL)

Gil Kimchi Diamonds

AMTC

I10

Glittering Gems DMCC

Anglo Belge

Antwerp Cut

SwissDiam

F13

Meraki by Tiara Gems

Michael Gad Emerald

Global Gems

Milin Triple B

Taché

Golay Fils & Stahl

Moguldiam

Tank

Moragen

Theilkaes

Morelle Davidson

Tory Gems

E. Goldstein Diamonds

Gorgoglione srl

Assil New York

E14

Great Diam

MSD

Gros Diffusion

Mya Nassi, Inc.

G13

GRS Gemresearch Swisslab AG

Nally

D13

B & B Fine Gems

Gübelin Gem Lab / Gübelin Academy

F15

H10

K11

Brink's

Napra Gems H

David & Sohn

I3 B9

House of Gems

I Dayagi Diamonds Deco Collection

A13

Dehres Diacolor

Diacraft

B15

Diamond Creations

W Wilds Company Limited

O Oberig Jewelry

Orpheo's Art SA

G5-F6

Humphrey Butler

P Hirani

H12

Pace Diamonds

H11

Ijadi Gem, Inc.

G12

Padma Gems

B11

Imagem

E12

Palais Royal

A11

Pamir Gems Co., Ltd.

Pat Saling Jewel Collection

F3 A8

J.R. Diamond International Ltd

J15

Paul Fisher

Jack Reiss

G15

Paul Wild

H. Jaros e.U.

C13

Periodjewels Inc

G11

Poli Trading

Joseph Gad Colombia Emeralds

B12

Pristine Diamonds

Prompt Gem Importers Inc

Provockative Gems

Eli. Etani

B10

JR Jewels / JR Diam

C1 E15

Yafa Signed Jewels /Maurice Moradof

KA Diamonds

Kazanjian Beverly Hills

Ellawala Exports (PVT) Limited

E11

Kothari Trading (HK) Ltd

Ely & Co. Fancy Diamonds, Inc.

G5-F6

I7-H8

Yvon Gindre SA

Zagari

C14 K9 G11

HEAD - HEJ Paris

The Designer Vivarium Alexandra Jefford

Elie Brilliant Gems, Inc.

Rajesh Popley

Cora Sheibani

Rare Diamond House

Milio

Rawat Gems LLC

Ming

C5-B6

Rick Shatz Inc.

Mr. Lieou

Kunming Trading Company

H10

Rio Diamond

Nadia Morgenthaler

L.F.G. - Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie

L15

Rubin & Zonen

Emilio Gindraux

F12

Enzo Liverino 1894

D11 G2 C10 I4

Kourosh

S L

L.J. West Diamonds La Bibliothèque

D10 L6

C11

Racine – Geneva

B13

Sean Gilson

Samir Gems

I15

Tatiana Verstraeten

Tenzo

Sant Enterprises

La Réserve Genève – Massage

L10

Sara Gem

I12

Lançon SA

I14

Saul Gemstones

Landsberg & Son

Scarselli Diamonds

Larengregor

Semi Gems

Ferrari

Laut

Sequins Jewelry

Filippo G & G SA

Leybel Elieli Diamond Ltd

D12

Seren Diamonds

Fima

Librairie Bernard Letu

L11

Shalom Bronstein

Frieden AG

Lotus Arts de Vivre

I11

Shanghai Gems S.A.

E7-D8

Ninotchka

Samer Halimeh New York

FEI

Faerber - Collection

Jogani

C13

J12 E10

G10

Joseph Saidian and Sons

William Goldberg Windsor Jewelers, Inc.

Pioneer Gems LLC

Edigem Ltd

Eshed - Gemstar

VMK Diamonds Ltd.

Piat

A10

Ernst Färber

Doris Hangartner AG

Epic

Novel Collection

J10

Diamrusa

Emerald 18 Ltd

Jewels Emporium

F10

Emco Gem Inc

Véronique Bamps

Jerry Blickman Inc.

Diamram Diarough

G14

D5 C7-B8

Nomad's

G5-F6

HRD Antwerp

Isaac Davidowits LLC

A14

I1 B4

Veerasak Gems

Horovitz & Totah SA

J13

VAK Fine Jewels Valentina Gems and Jewelry Ltd

Van Den Plas & Zonen

D13

Crown Color

J11

B11

Cohen & Pariser Exquisite Jewels

UMRAO

G15

E14

I15

Nimesh Gems

Colorline, Inc.

Neli Gems

Heritage Gems LLC

Color Diamond Trading Co

A12

Henn

F11

D15

Colgem-Coldiam Ltd

Tabbah

Hakimi A. & Sons

Cirari

C5-B6

Haruni Fine Gems HC Arnoldi

Cicada

I7-H8

Bomare SA

D1 H15

Mellen

Arnoldi International

Bijan & Co, Inc.

Swiss Pearls

C5-B6

Glajz

A14

Galaxy USA Inc

Aurora Gems

Shapiro Gems

Appelbaum Diamonds

M M. Khordipour, Inc.

Abouchar SA Diastar

Amba Gem Corp.

C12

A. J. Mehta & Co LLP

ALine

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I5-H6

Emerging Talents Ena Iro

A12

Horowicz Fine Jewellery

F10

PIERRE d’ALEXIS

Syz Fireworks

SUCIYAN

A Dance of Dragons Page 51

Photo courtesy of SUCIYAN Â© SUCIYAN

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | A DANCE OF DRAGONS

SUCIYAN

A Dance of Dragons B Y C AT H E R I N E VA RO U C H A

Names that are myth and fairy tale to the rest

modern and relevant. At the same time, his

of the world are history in Turkey, a land that

jewellery gives life to these fabled creatures

has been woven and unwoven time and

by creating them in contemporary forms.

again, like Penelope’s tapestry. Suciyan’s Dragonknot collection is a bridge connecting the ancient with the avant-garde, the abstract with the figurative, and the masculine with the feminine.

All Suciyan’s extraordinary pieces are handmade to order, leaving customers safe in the knowledge that their modern day heirlooms have been crafted just for them with the utmost care and attention to detail.

The collection excavates and re-crafts an imperial past: Inspired by the image of a pair of 3rd century BC Chinese repoussé silver

Prices start from £315. Arman Suciyan

belt buckles found in a yellowing auction

Arman Suciyan was born in 1972, and grew

house catalogue, it speaks to the passage of

up in Istanbul, Turkey. He first began his

time and the hand-making, artistry and

career as a goldsmith apprentice in a

materiality that bridge the centuries.

workshop, in the covered Bazaar at age 15.

A collection of deeply textural artefacts

In 1988, he was accepted to work alongside

shaped by the lost-wax technique,

Misak Toros, who represented the fourth

Dragonknot is archaeology of form that tells

generation of a Turkish Armenian family, with

a story both ancient and modern while

a long standing heritage of fine jewelry

suggesting that history may simply be a

design and production. There, he was

series of events sculpted in the present.

introduced to traditional skills of fine jewelry

The Dragonknot collection is comprised of a selection of men’s rings, chains, bracelets and belts, crafted in 925 sterling silver, some glinting with precious stones, like fire reflecting on the scales of the dragons they are inspired by. A bench trained silversmith,

making, as well as to a strong architectural approach, and a sense of rigor from design to completion. Specifically, Arman perfected the art of wax carving and modelling, which he had begun exploring as an apprentice in the Bazaar.

Suciyan uses ancient techniques to create

In 1994, after spending years at bench, he

his signature sinuous forms with fabulously

went on to attend the prestigious Kent

intricate details. His pieces are current,

Institute of Art & Design. Within his first year,

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | A DANCE OF DRAGONS

he started to work for British Jeweler, Stephen Webster. Upon graduating, he then joined his small team of specialist craftsmen, as a fulltime goldsmith and wax modeler. After ten years working amongst Stephen Webster's team, he became one of Stephen's greatest resources in modelling some of his most elaborate figurative pieces. Since 2004, Arman has been elaborating his own designs. After a few years spent in Milan, Arman returned to Istanbul in 2008, to fully dedicate himself to his craft. His collections are bold ,working mostly with silver, in combination with bronze and gold, his heart and expertise lies in carving and modelling, rendering pieces that are sculptural in nature. Arman has received various awards by the Goldsmiths Craft Council, as well as the prestigious DeBeers Jewelry Design Award.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | A DANCE OF DRAGONS

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | A DANCE OF DRAGONS

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | A DANCE OF DRAGONS

Page 62

A Spectacular Unmounted Diamond weighing 88.22 carats Sold 12.274.534 “Queen Marie Antoinette’s Pearl”. Exceptional and highly important €natural pearl and diamond pendant, 18th century. Estimate: $ 1-2 million Page 63

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

EXQUISITE MASTERPIECES B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A

The spring Magnificent Jewels and

a rarity, the discovery of a 242-carat rough, of

Jadeite auction delivered a wealth of colour

gem quality and exceptional size, is nothing

and design through rare gems and intricately

short of a miracle. The perfect 88.22-carat

crafted jewels. Unique signed pieces by

diamond is a summary of everything: a

legendary maisons, such as an exquisite

wonder of nature, a masterpiece resulting

emerald and diamond necklace by Van Cleef

from man’s ability to shape the hardest

& Arpels features alongside a specially curated

material on earth into an object of ultimate

collection of coloured gemstones and

beauty and the most concentrated form of

coloured diamonds of exceptional quality. A

wealth, as stated by Pliny the

notable 88.22 carat, D colour, Flawless, Type IIa diamond took centre stage, the quintessence of nature’s greatest creations.

Elder almost 2000 years ago. Sotheby’s Hong Kong has had the privilege to bring to the market some of the most important

The Spectacular 88.22-Carat Oval Diamond.

colourless diamonds in the past decade and

Perfect according to Every Critical Criterion

we look forward to presenting this treasure to

Prized by kings and queens for centuries

the world. ”

and across civilisations, coveted by tycoons

Describing the stone, David Bennett,

and moguls of the 20th century, exceptional

Worldwide Chairman, International Jewellery

large diamonds have become the ultimate

Division, said: “For those who have had the

collectibles for modern day connoisseurs. This

chance to see the diamond, one adjective

spring, a spectacular 88.22-carat, D Colour,

comes back: “breath-taking”. Barely any

Flawless, Type Ila, oval brilliant diamond,

diamonds of this weight are known to possess

perfect according to every critical criterion, will

the same exceptional qualities of purity and

lead Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale of Magnificent

perfection as this remarkable stone which is so

Jewels and Jadeite on 2 April 2019 (est.

full of fire and blinding brilliance.”

HK$88 - 100 million / US$11.2 - 12.7 million). This is one of only three oval diamonds of over 50 carats to appear at auction in living memory, and the largest to be auctioned in over five years**.

This unique diamond was sold for HK$108 million / US$13.8 million / £10.6 million. One of only three oval diamonds of over 50 carats to appear at auction in living memory, and the largest to be auctioned in

Patti Wong, Chairman of Sotheby’s Asia,

over five years, it was acquired by a Japanese

said: “When you think that one ton of mined

private collector who first saw the stone while

earth yields less than a carat of diamond, and

on exhibit in Japan. Immediately after the sale,

that high quality diamonds over 10 carats are

he named the precious stone, the ‘Manami

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

A Spectacular Unmounted Diamond weighing 88.22 carats Sold 12.274.534 €

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

A Spectacular Unmounted Diamond weighing 88.22 carats Sold 12.274.534 €

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

An Important Ruby, Diamond and Onyx Bangle, 'Panthère', Cartier Estimate 8,000,000 — 9,600,000 HKD

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

A Superb Sapphire and Diamond Ring Sold 2.202.171 €

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring Estimate 1,900,000 — 2,500,000 HKD

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

An Important Ruby and Diamond Brooch, 'Bellflowers', Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960s Sold 397.812 €

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

An Impressive Emerald and Diamond Necklace, 'Toscane', Van Cleef & Arpels Sold 974.638 €

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

Jadeite Peapod and Diamond Pendant Sold 426.227 €

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

A Very Fine Jadeite and Diamond Ring Sold 538.182 €

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

An Important Pair of Jadeite Double Hoop, Ruby and Diamond Pendent Earrings Estimate 4,500,000 — 6,500,000 HKD

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

Page 80

A Rare Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Brooch, circa 1750 Estimate 2,000,000 — 3,000,000 HKD

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

Star’, after his eldest daughter. Pursued by

A Masterpiece of Nature, brought to Life

three bidders, the diamond eclipsed its

by Human Hand

estimate of HK$88-100 million (US$11.2-12.7 million) and established a price per carat of HK$1,224,133 (US$156,150).

Finding a rough diamond that allows the cutter to fashion a stone of over 80 carats is a true and very rare discovery. The 242-carat

Patti Wong, Sotheby’s Chairman in Asia,

rough stone which yielded the diamond was

said: “We were thrilled to handle a diamond

discovered in Botswana in the mine of

of such rarity, which now takes its place in the

Jwaneng, a mine owned in partnership by De

roster of top white diamonds to have come to

Beers and the government of Botswana and

the market here at Sotheby’s Asia. Three

known for producing roughs of the highest

clients from the region competed for the

quality.

stone – testament to the strong demand for diamonds of this quality in this part of the world. At 88.22 carats, this lucky stone now carries the name of the fortunate child whose father has chosen to give it her name. A happy moment in the journey of one of the earth’s greatest, oldest treasures.”A Perfect Stone

Following its discovery, the rough was cut and polished over a period of intense months to produce a symmetrical and striking oval brilliant diamond. Given the elongated shape of the rough the oval shape was chosen to preserve the greatest amount of weight. Great skill and precision was needed to cut a stone of this importance - a

Perfect according to every critical

level of expertise and craftsmanship

criterion, the diamond has achieved the

possessed by only a small handful of cutters

highest rankings under each of the standards

in the world.

by which the quality of a stone is judged (‘the four Cs’). The diamond is D colour (the

88 – A Lucky Number

highest grade for a white diamond); of

A symbol of perfection and eternity,

exceptional clarity (it is completely flawless,

often associated with prosperity, the number

both internally and externally), and has

eight is considered a lucky number in China

excellent cut, polish and symmetry.

and other Asian cultures. The Chinese

As with the Koh-i-noor diamond (also oval) and the Cullinan I, which are part of the British Crown Jewels, the stone belongs to the rare subgroup comprising less than 2% of all gem diamonds, known as Type IIa*. Diamonds in this group are the most chemically pure type of diamond and often have exceptional optical transparency.

pronunciation of 8 (bā), similar to that of 發 (fā) meaning wealth or fortune, is welcomed as a blessing of affluence. In its duality - 88 – it is believed to bring good wishes in abundance. There is also a visual resemblance between 88 and 囍 (literally: "double joy"), a popular decorative design composed of two stylized characters 喜 ("joy").

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A Spectacular Unmounted Diamond weighing 88.22 carats Sold 12.274.534 €

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION RESULTS

Photo courtesy of BARE FINE JEWELRY Â© BARE FINE JEWELRY

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | THE SECRET OF FREEDOM

BARE

The secret of freedom Page 85

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | THE SECRET OF FREEDOM

BARE FINE JEWELRY The secret of freedom B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

BARE Fine Jewelry is about redefining classics in a contemporary

Different, but without compromising on quality, elegance and durably.

form.

At the Jewellery Historian when we

BARE is about giving shape to and

first saw the Carioca bracelet and ring it

redefining classics in a contemporary

was love at first sight. We loved the waves

form. Shapes are constantly studied and

of purity of design, that flow to meet

re-imagined to enhance beauty and blend

minimalism by keeping the essentials and

the timeless with the contemporary. Dries,

creating an all time classic piece of

founder and designer, takes inspiration

j e w e l r y. Th e B o n d a n d t h e B r u t e

from contemporary art, fashion and the

collections brought back memories but

e ff e c t s o f m o d e r n s c u l p t u re a n d

mainly allowed us to maintain a strong

architecture.

bond with people we love in our way.

BARE's designer, Dries Criel (photo left), takes inspiration from his background in modern dance, his travels, antique jewelry, architecture, and contemporary art. The BARE pieces are handcrafted by the best artisans in Antwerp using the finest materials available.

With the Infinite collection we felt that the place or even the person that is so far away that it cannot be reached, can be closer that we ever think. We loved every single piece that allowed us to free ourselves from binary labels imposed to us by society and feel free about ourselves. Freedom lies not on pieces of legal paper or in the physical space you

The BARE client can be defined by

have around you. The Signet collection

her or his strong personality, a person

reminded us that it lies in our minds and

looking for a unique piece and story,

each piece at BARE gave us what

independent, and has no gender and/or

Thucydides once said : â&#x20AC;&#x153; The secret of

age.

happiness is freedom. The secret of BARE fine jewelry focuses on being

freedom is courage.â&#x20AC;?

different, different when it comes to pure

We are proud to introduce you one of

designs with a twist and different in the

our favorite and most talented designers

way of presenting fine jewelry to a

and to a brand we truly love !

younger generation, for both men and women.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | THE SECRET OF FREEDOM

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | EXCLUSIVITY & CRAFTSMANSHIP

LOUISA WESTWOOD Exclusivity & Craftsmanship Page 105

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | EXCLUSIVITY & CRAFTSMANSHIP

LOUISA WESTWOOD Exclusivity & Craftsmanship B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

Exclusivity, craftsmanship and original

bespoke, handmade leather jewellery

design underpin the work of Louisa

boxes. She relishes working with gold,

Westwood, a London-based,

particularly 18 carat yellow gold,

independent designer-maker of luxury,

because of its natural, intrinsic beauty,

fine jewellery.

and sees goldsmithing as a magical

Self-taught Louisa Westwood has been making jewellery and honing her goldsmithing skills over a number of years. What started as an interest, has

combination of art and science; the perfect medium to express creativity with the help of a rich colour palette of precious gemstones.

gradually developed into a full-time

Her passion for bold, individualistic

passion and business, with principle

design enables her to create unique

values of exclusivity, craftsmanship and

and striking pieces that capture the

original design at its core.

imagination.

She

She draws inspiration

believes in taking the time to make

from art, the animal kingdom and

quality pieces that appeal to buyers

ancient civilisations - visual sources that

looking for something unique, and

have a powerful aesthetic or a strong

takes pride in providing a discreet,

symbolic meaning, that she then

personal service to her loyal client

translates into impactful, statement

base.

Only a small number of

pieces of jewellery. This is reflected in

exclusive, new creations are released

her two latest pieces, the Ruby Dragon

each year, as one-off or limited edition

necklace and the Persepolis Griffin

pieces, and sold to private, discerning

necklace.

clients and collectors worldwide.

The Ruby Dragon necklace is made

Louisa's deep respect for the warmth

with 18ct yellow gold, rubies,

of old-fashioned craftsmanship means

diamonds, sapphire, a natural

that she begins by painting her own

untreated druzy and kyanite beads,

designs using gouache watercolours,

and was inspired by the powerful, yet

and then hand-makes every piece,

beautiful Asian dragon.

using only traditional techniques. This

dragon's long, fluid body is grain set

respect for tradition is extended to all

with rubies, to represent his rough

areas of production, from timeless

scales, and the other half is pure,

letterpress printed business cards to

smooth yellow gold to represent his

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Half of the

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | EXCLUSIVITY & CRAFTSMANSHIP

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | EXCLUSIVITY & CRAFTSMANSHIP

soft underbelly. The 'spacers' between the beads have been styled in a traditional cloud design, whilst shimmering kyanite beads represent the blue sky. The centre stone is a natural, untreated druzy cut especially for the piece, which sparkles in the evening light, and was inspired by Hokusai's work entitled 'The Dragon of Smoke Escaping from Mount Fuji'. The Persepolis Griffin necklace is made with 18ct yellow gold, tanzanites, diamonds and lapis lazuli, and was inspired by the imposing and beautiful double-headed stone griffin, found amongst the giant ruins of the ancient Persian city of Persepolis. The necklace is adorned with a centre-piece of diamond set, overlapping eagle wings, whilst tanzanites and lapis lazuli reflect the blue colours that are found in mosques and palaces of the region.

The decorative fringe

underneath the piece, represents the long, vertical column that the griffins stand on, and the necklace is styled in a heavy, classical way, symbolic of the imposing monuments of Persepolis. When I first saw those amazing pieces of art I knew that I had to share them with you all. I am sure that you will also fall in love with the high quality of work, unique craftsmanship, the savoir-faire of an exceptional artist. To enquire about availability, please visit www.louisawestwood.com or email contact@louisawestwood.com

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Jasmin Karger Jaqc's Jewellery Academy is opening Page 113

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | JAQC’S JEWELLERY ACADEMY

JASMIN KARGER Jaqc's Jewellery Academy is opening B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

Jaqc's Jewellery Academy is opening it's doors in London this summer

Jasmin's YouTube channel "JaqcJewellery Tutorials" offers free tutorials based on her

After releasing her first book "The Magic of Jewellery illustration-Jewellery Design Essentials" in 2017 and her second book

books to get you started with her method of rendering jewellery and sketching rings in perspective.

"Rings in Perspective" in 2018, Jasmin Karger,

For more advanced designs and to gain in

the founder of Jaqc-Jewellery, will finally teach

depth experience, Jasmin offers online-classes

her first classroom courses based on her

(released in June) and classroom-based

groundbreaking technique of designing rings

courses starting on the 22nd of June in

in perspective.

London.

Several years ago, while working as a

These courses will be taught in the

design instructor for GIA, Jasmin realized that

beautiful Rudolf Steiner House in London,

the art of drawing rings in perspective can be

which is only a short walk from Baker Street

quite challenging not only for beginners but

tube station and Regents Park.

also for experiences designers.

Steiner House is one of the few expressionist

Hence, she started experimenting with different tools and method until she could develop a technique that is easy to use and

architecture buildings in London and has been used as a creative teaching facility since it was opened in the 1930s.

requires a minimum of experience. And of course looks simply stunning.

The Rudolf

Jaqc’s Jewellery Academy courses are recommended by the Jewellery Historian, since

The guides and templates that are provided with her second book "The Magic of

many of us are former students of Jasmin Karger and know very well her amazing work.

Jewellery Illustration - Rings in Perspective" make it so much easier to lay out the most common ring designs like for example Single-Stone rings, Three-Stone rings and

For information please visit jaqcjewellery.com. • Yo u Tu b e : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqK97

signet rings.

M15ZguftidaJmE61_g

But with more experience, even complex cocktail rings can designed easier and faster

• Rudolf Steiner House:

using this method.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | JAQC’S JEWELLERY ACADEMY

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38 A page from the book "Rings in Perspective" Page 119

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40 A page from the book "Rings in Perspective" Page 120

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | IN BLOOM

IN BLOOM Floral Fashion in Jewels Shaun Leane, Diamond Orchid Earrings. Page 123

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | IN BLOOM

IN BLOOM

A Selling Exhibition Tracing Floral Fashion in Jewels From the 19th-Century to Today B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

Just in time for spring, Sotheby’s

distinguished by unique pieces

announces a selling exhibition

specifically commissioned from British

celebrating the history and evolution of

artist Shaun Leane, Japanese master

the flower motif in jewelry design, from

craftswoman Gimel and Indian

the 19th century to the present day.

designer Bina Goenka.

Curated in partnership with Carol

The In Bloom selling exhibition will

Woolton, the celebrated historian,

be open to the public in Sotheby’s

author, and Contributing Director of

newly-expanded and reimagined

Jewelry of British Vogue, In Bloom

galleries in New York from 3 – 24 May,

offers an array of jewels that embody

alongside our marquee May auctions

the vibrance and beauty of nature –

of Impressionist & Modern and

from the sunny hue of daffodils to the

Contemporary Art. All pieces on

painterly palette of blossoming irises.

exhibition will be available for private

Comprising 75 pieces, the collection

sale, with prices ranging from $10,000

will showcase vintage floral designs

to $3 million.

from distinguished houses Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, David Webb, Boucheron, Verdura, and Belperron, alongside exquisite pieces by leading contemporary designers from around the world, including Solange Azagury-Partridge, Neha Dani, Eliane Fattal, Fernando Jorge, Sabba, Jessica McCormack and Irene Neuwirth. Young talents, such as Tatiana Verstraeten and Christopher Thompson Royds

Frank Everett, Sales Director of Sotheby’s Luxury Division, commented: “There is no design motif as enduring as the flower, and blooms of every species have inspired designers for as long as we’ve had jewelry. It has been my pleasure to work with Carol Woolton on this show to select beautiful examples, both vintage and contemporary, tracing the evolution of the floral jewel over past 150 years. While florals for spring may not be

will feature alongside fine jewels

groundbreaking, they seemed perfect

by Dolce & Gabbana, exhibited for the

for the May 3rd opening of Sotheby’s

fir s t t i m e . Th e s h o w i s f u r t h e r

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new galleries, as the first jewelry installation

About Carol Woolton

in our new space.”

Carol Woolton is a jewelry editor,

Carol Woolton said: “Flowers are one of

historian, journalist and author of four books

the ways we measure particular moments of

including: Floral Jewels from the World's

our lives, and jewelry is another. Small

Leading Designers and she is Contributing

wonder that flowers are a recurring and

Director of Jewelry for British Vogue.

significant theme in oeuvre of the jewelry

About Sotheby’s

designer, arguably the greatest leitmotif in the history of jewels, cropping up time and

Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors

a g a i n s t u d i e d f ro m e v e r y a n g l e f o r

with world-class works of art since 1744.

inventiveness and brilliance of color to be

Sotheby’s became the first international

reimagined in fresh forms to suit the

auction house when it expanded from

prevailing whims of fashion. I’ve often been

London to New York (1955), the first to

drawn to comment on floral jewel trends and

conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India

have explored antique naturalist and abstract

(1992) and France (2001), and the first

approaches of design, as well as stories of

international fine art auction house in China

flowers that stirred the crafting of a jewel, in

(2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in

my book Floral Jewels from the World’s

10 different salesrooms, including New York,

Leading Designers, which sowed the idea for

London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s

this exhibition. I’ve been delighted to work

BidNow program allows visitors to view all

with Sotheby’s in curating this selling

auctions live online and place bids from

exhibition of magnificent antique and

anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers

contemporary examples of floral jewels.”

collectors the resources of Sotheby’s

Created specially for In Bloom, The House of Shaun Leane presents a pair of exquisite, 18-carat white gold floral studs with green and white diamond solitaries and additional tsavorite and diamond signature hooked backs. A combination of the two major themes present in Leane’s work – Flora and Line – these expertly-crafted earrings demonstrate the diverse range of skills and technical abilities of the house. The most highly-coveted of ornamental plants, the delicate, exotic and graceful orchid at once

Financial Services, the world’s only full-service art financing company, as well as the collection advisory services of its subsidiary, Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents private sale opportunities in more than 70 categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two retail businesses, Sotheby’s Diamonds and Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global network of 80 offices in 40 countries and is the oldest company listed on the New York Stock Exchange (BID).

represents love, luxury, beauty and strength. Here its likeness is transformed into a symbol of the pure elegance of the natural world.

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Sabba, Diamond and Turquoise Ring.

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Pair of Silver-Topped Gold and Diamond Earclips 19th Century.

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Silver-Topped Gold, Diamond and Demantoid Garnet Brooch 19th Century.

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Cartier , Gold and Citrine Clip-Brooch circa 1940s.

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Wendy Yue , Emerald, Tsavorite Garnet, Pink Sapphire and Diamond Ring.

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Van Cleef & Arpels , Gold, Diamond, Emerald and Sapphire Bracelet circa 1960s.

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Cindy Chao, Pair of Diamond and Tsavorite Garnet Earclips.

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Gimel, Diamond, Colored Diamond and Demantoid Garnet Brooch.

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Verdura, Gold, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Hyacinth’ Bracelet.

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David Webb, Gold and Diamond Clip-Brooch circa 1960s.

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DUBINI

A fragment of history Page 141

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | A FRAGMENT OF HISTORY

DUBINI A fragment of history BY CHRISTIAN GOUGENHEIN

Dubini is a fusion of ancient Italian

THEODORA

craftmanship with a singular, contemporary aesthetic. Distinctive, feminine pieces for the modern woman.

The collection is inspired by the Byzantine Empress Theodora, wife of Emperor Justinian I. During her reign Hagia Sofia, the great basilica

Every piece has a story, no two are the same. The rough and ragged textures of each coin are a

later turned mosque that dominates Constantinople, was built.

landscape portraying the thousands of lives it has lived.

The designs draw reference from the use of mosaics and colour in this architectural wonder as

Creative Director

well as in Theodora’s personal adornment.

Benedetta Dubini is an Italian designer based in London.

Featuring a range of precious stones from Aquamarines to Rubellites in faceted and

Since a young age she was surrounded by creative and avant-guard ideas that have had a strong impact on her aesthetic and way of

non-faceted stones set in 18kt gold. It taps into the rich colours of Byzantine Art whilst maintaining a modern and contemporary feel.

thinking. Her grandfather was a film producer

EMPIRES

during the golden era of Italian cinema and her grandmother was a prominent actress.

Inspired by the boldest characters of Roman and Greek history, it incorporates their

She graduated from Central St. Martin’s with a degree in Jewellery Design and then went on to

characteristics into unique and modern pieces of jewellery.

fine tune her knowledge at the Gemological Institute of America. Benedetta’s work has been influenced by her vast and diverse life experiences. From exploring the Eastern influences of Gem Palace, to learning the Italian traditions of handcrafted fine jewellers of Villa, Carolina Bucci and Pomellato.

The collection playfully delights in ancient stories and myths whilst tapping into the rich history of Italian craftsmanship. In the past, coins were carefully stowed away and left forgotten. Now, they have been carefully selected for their value, beauty and as witnesses of a bygone era. Within a clean and classic context, Empires

Her ties to her country, heritage and history fused with her cosmopolitan London life are what

merges past and present, creating timeless pieces with an irresistible edge.

brought her to create a collection that takes from both worlds, blends both realities, a combination of classic elegance and modern edginess.

The experience of owning a Dubini is unique. It is a piece of jewellery but also, a fragment of history.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | FANTASY GARDEN

SARAH ZHUANG Fantasy Garden Page 169

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SARAH ZHUANG Fantasy Garden B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

Versatile, elegant, yet playful, Sarah Zhuang Jewellery is taking the international jewellery scene by storm. Launched in 2017 by Sarah Zhuang, the young designer brand celebrates womanhood as each collection personifies a unique trait of modern women. Each piece is skillfully crafted so that it can be transformed and worn in multiple ways to take the wearer through the day to night. Sarahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s innovative creations have acclaimed numerous international design awards. Within two years, Sarah Zhuang Jewellery established presence in Japan, China, and London. It is the only fine jewellery brand from Hong Kong currently stocked in Harvey Nichols London. To celebrate the spring season, Sarah Zhuang Jewellery launches Fantasy Garden collection in April 2019. Drawing inspiration from the magical moments of insects fluttering in the air, this collection portrays a modern woman with an adventurous and outgoing personality. She loves the thrill of a new experience, she loves having freedom in her life Fantasy Garden is a highly versatile collection, each piece can be worn alone or embellished with a decorative piece to create different combinations. The collection contains three categories, Rings, Earrings and Necklaces. Every category includes five insects as the main pieces (Queen Bee, Ladybird, Madame Butterfly, Dragonfly Goddess and Baby Beetle), each is delicately hand-crafted in 18K gold and set with a rich palette of colored sapphires. Each of the insect ring can be worn individually, or inserted into one of the jacket rings, as if giving the insect a beautiful home. The 16inch necklaces can be worn alone for a simple look, or embellished with a necklace charm to become more dramatic. Each pair of stud earrings can be worn alone or decorated with tassel stands to create a more elegant look. At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to introduce you this great new collection and one of the most talented designers.

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Auction at Sothebys Geneva Page 191

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MAGNIFICENT & NOBLE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | AUCTION

MAGNIFICENT & NOBLE Two masterpieces epitomizing the craftsmanship of key periods in the history of Jewellery B Y C AT H E R I N E VA RO U C H A

This May in Geneva, Sotheby’s will offer for

(1882-1951). The tiara will be offered with an

sale two masterpieces epitomizing the

estimate of CHF 200,000 – 300,000

craftsmanship of key periods in the history of

($200,000 – 300,000).

Jewellery. Following the record-breaking sale of Royal Jewels from the Bourbon Parma Family in November 2018, both jewels have prestigious provenance: they belonged to two influential women who in their time embodied the height of fashion and elegance.

Speaking about the emerald and diamond necklace, Sotheby’s Worldwide Jewellery Chairman David Bennett said, “This is Art Deco at its absolute finest, a connoisseur’s jewel. Rare and exceptional pieces like these are the reason people collect Jewellery. The first time I laid eyes on this emerald and

The first jewel is an Art Deco treasure,

diamond necklace was exactly 25 years ago

probably by Van Cleef & Arpels: a stunning

when we sold the Hélène Beaumont

emerald and diamond necklace created in

collection in Geneva. I said at the time that it

the 1930s for Hélène Beaumont (1894 –

was the most important row of cabochon

1988), an American socialite and close friend

emeralds I had seen during my then 20-year

of the Duchess of Windsor. She settled on

career. Today, 25 years on, that statement

the French Riviera, where she held

still holds true.”

legendary parties and galas during the magical, hedonistic days of the 1920s and 1930s. The necklace is set with 11 immaculate Colombian emeralds weighing a total of over 75 carats, and is estimated at CHF 2,895,000 – 3,980,000 ($3 - 4 million).

Daniela Mascetti, Sotheby’s Jewellery Chairman, Europe, commented on the tiara, “As we saw last November with Marie Antoinette’s pearl, historic jewels have the power to transport us back to a moment in time. The tiara attributed to Fabergé is

The second is an exquisite diamond tiara

another perfect example: its Kokoshnik

attributed to Fabergé, which was created

design reflects Crown Princess Cecilie’s

around 1903 for Duchess Cecilie von

Russian family, who gifted it to her for her

Mecklenburg-Schwerin (1886-1954), the last

wedding; from portraits we can see that she

Crown Princess of Prussia, given to her by

paired the tiara with her gowns in a very

her Russian relatives on the occasion of her

fashion-forward way for the very early 1900s.

w e d d i n g t o C r o w n Pr i n c e W i l h e l m

For so many collectors today – who seek out

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unique pieces with ‘soul’ - this jewel is really a

social event of the still-young century. The

masterpiece.”

extravagant celebrations spanned four days and the couple was showered with gifts,

“THE ULTIMATE IN ART DECO”

including silver, porcelain and even a

Created in the 1930s, this bold and

splendid carriage drawn by Hungarian grey

exquisitely crafted emerald and diamond

stallions, presented by the Austrian Emperor,

necklace was designed for and worn by

Franz Joseph I. Amongst the beautiful jewels

Hélène Beaumont (1894 – 1988), a socialite

bestowed on the newlyweds was a tiara

and philanthropist who settled at Villa

attributed to Fabergé, a stunning gift from

Eilenroc on the Cap d’Antibes, hosting

Cecilie’s Russian relatives.

parties in the 1920s and 30s which were attended by glamorous guests including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and the Aga Khan.

The young duchess had joined one of the most important dynasties in Europe. Strikingly beautiful, with jet-black hair and impressive dark eyes, Cecilie quickly became

This emblematic piece is composed of a row

one of the most beloved members of the

of 11 truly outstanding cabochon emeralds,

German Imperial House, particularly admired

perfectly matched both in colour and

for her sense of style. Her elegance and

proportions. These exceptional gemstones

fashion-consciousness meant that before

are combined with geometric diamonds in a

long, her style was being copied by women

breathtaking Art Deco design, placing this

across the Empire.

jewel among the very finest examples of 20th-century Jewellery.

The auction on 14 May builds on the success of the record-breaking sale of Royal Jewels

Although it is unsigned - as was not unusual

from the Bourbon Parma Family in November

at the time – its beauty and quality suggest

2018, which included jewels from Queen

that it was made by Van Cleef & Arpels, as

Marie Antoinette (see details here), which set

were so many other pieces in her collection.

new benchmarks for period jewels with

In additional to being visually stunning, it is

extraordinary provenance, a field pioneered

also very versatile; the central emerald and

by Sotheby’s. Global demand for exceptional

diamond sections of the necklace can be

period jewels is at an all-time high, in

detached and worn as bracelets.

particular those bearing the signature of the

THE FABERGÉ TIARA OF CROWN PRINCESS

world’s most illustrious Jewellery houses. AMONG THE OTHER HIGHLIGHTS IN THE

CECILIE The story of this tiara is intimately bound up

SALE

with the destiny of Duchess Cecilie von

Following on from the sale of a spectacular

Mecklenburg-Schwerin, who was to become

8 8 . 2 2 - c a r a t o v a l

the last Crown Princess of Prussia. In June

diamond in Hong Kong this month, the May

1905, tens of thousands of people flocked to

s a l e i n G e n e v a w i l l o f f e r

the lavishly decorated capital, Berlin, to

two exceptional white diamonds. The first, a

witness her wedding. It was the biggest

b r i l l i a n t - c u t s t o n e ,

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Magnificent and highly important emerald and diamond necklace, circa 1935.

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Onyx, ruby and diamond jabot pin, Cartier circa 1925.

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Brilliant-cut diamond ring weighing 36.57 carats, D colour, flawless, type IIa, excellent polish and symmetry,

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Duchess Cecilie wearing the Fabergé tiara

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Diamond tiara, attributed to Fabergé, circa 1903.

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weighs 36.57 carats (Estimate CHF 4,720,000

The central sapphire in this stunning ring is

– 5,715,000 / $4,750,000 – 5,750,000,

from Kashmir – the most sought-after origin

illustrated left); the second is an emerald-

for this particular gemstone – and weighs

cut stone by Harry Winston, weighing 18.86

8.35 carats (Estimate CHF 450,000 – 650,000

c a r a t s ( E s t i m a t e C H F

/ $450,000 – 650,000).

800,000 – 1,200,000 / $800,000 – 1,200,000, i l l u s t r a t e d r i g h t ) . B o t h  diamonds are of D Colour – the highest p o s s i b l e c o l o u r g r a d i n g f o r  white diamonds, and belong to the rare

MAGNIFICENT JEWELS & NOBLE JEWELS 14 May 2019 – Sotheby’s Geneva

subgroup of Type IIa diamonds – which comprises less than 2% of all gem diamonds, i n c l u d i n g t h e l e g e n d a r y Ko h - i - N o o r diamonds which are part of the British Crown Jewels. Type IIa diamonds often boast exceptional optical transparency. Of Indian inspiration, this delicate jabot pin was created by Cartier and can be dated to around 1925, during the period widely considered to be the pinnacle of the house’s creativity. Set with oval rubies, diamonds and polished onyx, the jewel reflects the important influence of India in Cartier’s work at this time: it is inspired by a traditional ornament which was worn o men’s turban, known as the sarpech (Estimate CHF 180,000 – 280,000 / $180,000 – 280,000). Also standing out among the highlights in May is a beautiful emerald and diamond necklace created by Janesich in around 1920. Founded in 1835 in Trieste, the Janesich firm was a favourite of the Austrian aristocracy, and later of the Italian bourgeoisie. To this day, the house enjoys renown for creating marvellous jewels, as illustrated by this piece with its delicately carved emeralds depicting bunches of grapes and leaves (Estimate CHF 250,000 – 350,000 / $250,000 – 350,000).

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Kashmir Sapphire and diamond ring, 8.35 carats

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Emerald and diamond necklace, Janesich, circa 1920

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Diamond ring, 18.86 carats, Harry Winston.

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GOLDESIGN Seduction, grace & femininity Page 205

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GOLDESIGN Seduction, grace & femininity BY CHRISTIAN GOUGENHEIN

Enchant, inspire and transform each details in

Mother of 3 children Ana, and her husband,

a remarkable style! That's the search and

that is also her business partner, Marcelo

fulfillment of the designer Ana Albuquerque, who

A l b u q u e rq u e , m a s t e r f u l l y m a n a g e s t h e i r

signs exclusively all Goldesign's collections.

international jewellery company even with

Rubies, tsavorites, emeralds, blue sapphire, topaz

constants business travels. Her life is surrounded

and diamonds are all reunited in a interesting and

by a natural glamour, where is also possible to be

sophisticated combination. She creates incredible

seen in her relationship with the jewels.

jewels, result of her exquisite and unique style!

She participate in the most prestigious

The classical culture of France, where she

international trade shows - in Doha with the

studied design, influenced her unique style along

Alfardan Group, Abu Dhabi, Bahrain, Paris, Las

with the eastern cultures, the Brazilian gems and

Vegas ( at Couture ), along with the most

her differentiated approach that harmoniously

acclaimed names. In the world of jewell is iconic

transforms all this into beautiful jewels! The flowers

and has earned the most respected industry

and the nature are one of the primaries

design awards, the latest one in Dubai in

inspirations to Ana, it enchant her and also inspires

November 2017.

to accomplish the classic with the modern in her creations. An example is the old french jewell technique "tremblant", used by her to create delicate movements to the flowers in the pieces.

She began to work as a jeweler driven by the effect and charm that classic jewels used to have over her as a designer. And since then, she has exercised her enchantment creating her own lines

The company develop the exquisite design

from jewel to perfumes and home pieces - where

with a cutting-edge technology among the classic

every step is a discovery, every garden a universe

jewell tradition. Since it foundation, Goldesign is

and where nature, inspires her daily.

focused in the global market, and in each exported collection it just not only bring the jewels but also the values of a Brazilian brand. The jewels had already shown up in many international magazines.

Goldesign is an international company, and has a history of participating in trade shows all over the world. The brand celebrates now 20 years in the international market. Since it foundation

"We look for original solutions, with exclusive

distributes uniques pieces made by fantastics

attention in the technical and aesthetic aspects"

goldsmiths that past due their knowledge true

said Ana. And she completes: "each design is a

generations.

resemblance of a story build in seduction, grace and femininity, dreams and mastery, power and passion! "

Each collection presents works of arts, exhibiting uniques identities and qualities. Everything is developed thinking about each

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d e t a i l , b e c o m i n g e a s y t o re c o g n i z e

T H E A R T A N D D E S I G Nâ&#x20AC;¨

Goldesign's masterpieces.

a journey through an exclusive world

Ana creates a colorful and sophisticated

Enchanting. Inspiring. Design Awards

world that decorates, enchant and mainly

Winner. Turning details into an incomparable

brings sophistication and uniqueness to

style. This is no doubt the motivation for Ana

every woman who uses her creations.

Albuquerque, creative director and

The intersection of technology with craftsmanship A brand internationally acclaimed for its exuberant and exquisite design, where cutting-edge technology joins the tradition of classic craftsmanship. Since its foundation the company is focused on the global

GOLDESIGN BRAZILIAN JEWELLERY collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designer. The joy of creating, along with the constant pursuit of greatness in design for her high end clients, shows in each of her creations, with pieces that seduce and surprise.

distribution of unique products. GOLDESIGN

With references brought from the years

BRAZILIAN JEWELLERY partners ANA and

spent in France, inspirations from the French

MARCELO ALBUQUERQUE, besides

Renaissance with its classic sophistication and

exporting the jewels considered works of art,

the exoticism of her Brazilian origin, the

also show, in each collection, the value of the

designer aims for exclusive pieces, pure

Brazilian brand and its ability to exhibit

luxury to collect and to wear.

identity and quality. In the last fifteen years GOLDESIGN expanding in the Middle East, Europe and United States has been building a VIP public that accompanies the rise of the brand through the exceptional value added on each collection. The company's philosophy is to create icons. For GOLDESIGN, a beautiful jewellery is much more than a noble metal with valuable gems. The true value represents an enduring story that can be passed on for generations. This is the most precious expression of our concept of beauty. Thus, each of our creations carries the challenge of being an icon of an era, a celebration and a special moment in the lives of those who have the privilege to display it.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | THE BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMSTONES

ZIRCON

The breathtaking beauty of gemstones Page 273

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | THE BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMSTONES

ZIRCON

The breathtaking beauty of gemstones B Y E VA KO U N TO U R A K I

There are some things in life that one may

jewelry collections and important pieces. Its

have never seen but might have heard of, some

moderately high hardness makes it a gem that can

things that you may think you know but when you

be used in our jewelry with its brittleness being the

take a moment to think twice, you realize that you

sole characteristic that might require some special

donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t actually know that much. There are some

care, not different however than all precious things.

ideas and concepts that you may vaguely have in

Zircon comes in a variety of colours, including

mind but when you try to explain them you come

beautiful and warm earthy tones, ranging from

to understand that you are not really aware of what

colorless to yellow and orange, to red and brown.

it is all about. For many years this has been, and still

The most marketable hue however remains the

is, the reality of a very particular gemstone, today

blue, which today takes up about 70% of the total

called zircon.

zircon sales.

It is not unusual to name gemstones and

Zircon is a very important mineral for many

minerals after an element that is part of their

reasons. One of the most fascinating is that zircon

chemical formula, hence the name zircon, since the

is probably the oldest mineral we have discovered

basic chemistry of this mineral contains the

on our planet. Recently, there was a mineralogical

element zirconium. This chemical element has

find in Australia containing a small fragment of

been used as a component in the synthesis of a

zircon which was dated to be 4.4 billion years old!

completely different material, properly called

This means that the mineral started crystallizing at

synthetic cubic zirconia, which has gained the title

the same point of time when the surface of the

of probably the most successful diamond imitation

earth was beginning to cool and solidify.

for several reasons, since its marketing started in the 1950s until today. This simple similarity in the names has lead to a complicated misconception in the heads of people who, to make things easier at a personal and mental level, combined every name that contains an idea of zirconium with the concept of simulant, or as it is tragically referred to in the market, a fake.

Another largely unknown characteristic of zircon lies deep in its very essence. It is a romantic story with a sole protagonist adapting to its own structure and chemistry that are leading it to its self-destruction. Zircon sometimes naturally contains traces of the elements uranium and thorium. These elements are radioactive and over long periods of time they break the mineralâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

The reality is that until our modern practices,

structure down. The result is a slow gradual change

followed by our catastrophic half-knowledge,

in the colour and the transparency of the crystal

zircon was a sought-after gem, praised for its

and the alteration of its physical and optical

brilliance and fire, which in combination with its

properties that can sometimes lead to a total

attractive colours, render zircon suitable for royal

damage of the crystal structure, meaning that the

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gem becomes virtually amorphous. Zircon that has undergone this natural process of “self-irradiation” called metamictization, o b t a i n s a g re e n i s h h u e a n d c l o u d y appearance. This is however a condition that can be slowed down with thermal treatment. Since the actual transformation is very slow, our treatment that decelerates the degradation seems like it can stop it because we measure it in a human time perception scale. Rightfully gaining the title of the world’s most ancient gem makes every human assumption of probability of imitation, resemblance with fake, or a mere “no bother-ness”,

to be at least insignificant.. It

takes a special sensitivity to try to understand this concept: the world was a very different place when the zircon you are wearing was crystallizing, and a planet’s lifespan of history -that this gem has survived- has taken place until it has eventually arrived to your hand; respect is mandatory, ancient and important. Zircon is such a special material that comparing it to other gems should be done cautiously. Its history, irrelevant from human eras and non-dependent to anything else than the earth that creates and carries it, its supernatural strength to transform itself by absorbing its own energy and allowing it to impose an alteration but not extermination, and its unquestionable beauty, elevate it to another level, where it hangs out in with the primeval company of the planets..

We invite you to discover jewellery set with moonstone on the official Instagram account of the Jewellery Historian.

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Page 276

SKELETON X

When design defines function Page 277

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | SKELETON X

SKELETON X When design defines function B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A

The SKELETON X, a new Manufacture

shape-within-shape-within-shape geometry -

movement that lays bare its audacious

an X formed by four of the indexes is framed

technology in an exquisite exhibition of fine

in a rectangle, in turn inside a circle - delights

watchmaking’s most challenging technique.

the eye. Inside and clearly visible beats one of

Inner beauty revealed, not concealed: this

the star innovations of the watch’s antecedent,

openworked wonder takes skeletonization to

the FREAK VISION: a super-light balance

the X-level. Bold and powerful, it is an X-ray

wheel in silicium, extra-wide, with nickel

interpretation of the future of watchmaking

flyweights and stabilizing micro-blades. The

design, where we see everything, including

new Manufacture movement, the UN-371

the very architecture and functioning of time. If

caliber, is based on the UN-171 movement,

you’ve got it, flaunt it. The Skeleton X leaves

but completely redesigned. The 96-hour

nothing to the imagination.

power reserve can be read through the back

January 2019, Geneva - More than a means, eXploring has become Ulysse Nardin’s motivation. The X-factor is the answer: X like an adventure, X like our deepest desires, X for the unknown, X for what’s forbidden, bold and

by means of windows, like those in the barrel. The SKELETON X eXists in four different satin-finish versions: satin-finish titanium blue, satin-finish titanium black, satin-finish rose gold or matte-finish Carbonium ® GOLD.

exciting. SKELETON X is the perfect showcase

This skeletonized watch par excellence is

of this new X-ray vision of watchmaking.

priced very competitively with a start price

Blurring the frontiers between our inner and

version at 17’500 USD. Painstakingly cut and

the outer worlds, X-rays allow us to connect

exposed, elaborately finished, hand-polished

with the invisible, with the hidden. To see

to a shimmering gleam, it bespeaks the

through things, to explore the in-betweens of

artisan’s touch, and watchmaker’s experience

the reality, to transgress the rules of the

and savoir-faire. Nothing can hide, inside

material world. The new SKELETON X plays off

becomes outside, the boundaries blur, as the

the transparency of its powerful movement by

invisible processes of time are marvelously

intricately cutting away as much material as

revealed to the naked eye.

possible, without jeopardizing tolerances or shock resistance, to reveal the stunning beauty of the three-dimensional heart beating inside. The SKELETON X case, reshaped and very small, a mere 42mm, is perfectly on-trend: more angular, more masculine, less round. Its

SKELETON X Carbonium ® GOLD: from the world of aeronautic fuselage to Haute Horlogerie. The most spectacular iteration of the SKELETON X collection is undoubtedly the

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Carbonium ® GOLD version. The aeronautic-grade Carbonium ® is a new, super-light and sustainable material used in the production of the latest-generation airplanes’ fuselage and wings. In short, the most vital and essential components in today’s modern airplanes. The production of Carbonium ® has 40% less environmental impact than other carbon composites as it uses offcuts from aeronautical pieces. With complex process requiring high pressures and temperatures, Carbonium ®

is a

high-performance material that brings out the core beauty of the organic pattern created by the 7µm diameter carbon fibers. Carbonium® Gold is a “fusion” of carbon and gold, giving to the SKELETON X watch case shimmery and flowing black and gold waves. The use of a material like Carbonium ® GOLD comes as a clear reminder that we dare make a difference. Constructed from next-generation carbon composites - among the most robust and resilient materials ever devised by science - it is as audaciously disruptive as it is technically and technologically transcendent. Ulysse Nardin is the first to use this neXt-generation material in a watch. Its resistance-to-lightness ratio is unparalleled, and its stunning marbling effect never repeats, making each watch case absolutely

unique.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS References 3713-260-3/03 // 3713-260/03 3713-260-3/BLACK // 3713-260/BLACK 3715-260/CARB // 3715-260-3/CARB 3716-260/03 // 3716-260-3/03 Movement Caliber UN-371, manual winding movement Functions Manufacture Skeleton Movement  3 Hz Silicium balance wheel Silicium minuterie gear train Power reserve 96 hours Case Titanium Titanium black DLC Rose gold 4N Carbonium ® GOLD Diameter Titanium & Rose gold: 42 mm Carbonium ®: 43 mm Case back Sapphire crystal Water resistance 50 m Strap Titanium & Rose Gold available in rubber or alligator strap Carbonium ® gold available in rubber or grained calf-leather strap World prices Ti Blue : 17’500 USD Ti Black : 17’500 USD Carbonium ® gold : 21’000 USD Rose gold : 29’000 USD

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Photo courtesy of Banter Snaps | Unsplash

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | SHOWCASE

SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A & C H R I S T I A N G O U G E N H E I N

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SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

FENG J.

MAUREEN L. MARIS

FORMS

STENZHORN

PRIMA GEMS

PASPALEY

DAVID MORRIS

ZOLOTAS

DAVID YURMAN

YANNIS SERGAKIS

To see more of our favorite jewellery, follow us on www.instagram.com/jewellery_historian Page 292

REZA

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | 30 | ADRESS BOOK

ADRESS BOOK BRANDS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

BARE www.anna-hu.com DUBINI www.dubini.co.uk GEMGENÈVE www.gemgeneve.com GOLDESIGN BRAZILIAN JEWELLERY www.instagram.com/goldesignbrazilianjewellery GUCCI www.gucci.com JARMIN KARGER https://jaqcjewellery.com LOUISA WESTWOOD https://louisawestwood.com OWN YOUR STORY http://ownyourstory.us SARAH ZHUANG www.sarahzhuang.com SOTHEBY’S www.sothebys.com SUCIYAN www.suciyan.com ULYSSE NARDIN www.ulysse-nardin.com

For the brands showcased in page 292, visit our Instagram account www.instagram.com/jewellery_historian

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