Jewellery Historian, issue #29 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

THE

BEST

29 KEPT

SECRET

THE

WORLD

LUXYRY

L’ORCHESTRE Joaillier

8 artists unite and create one of kind tailored symphony! The symphony of custom-made excess! Genesis of the BOA ring. A rebellious ring?

ROYAL JEWELS FROM THE BOURBON PARMA FAMILY

In Geneva, Royal Jewels from the Bourbon Parma Family will be oﬀered at auction for the first time, including treasures of Queen Marie Antoinette (1755–1793).

NEW SNAKE-INSPIRED PIECES Gucci is extending the Gucci Ouroboros Fine Jewelry collection with new designs.

7 BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

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Aeschylus calls her “the eye of the night” as she was considered to be the moon personified. Eva Kountouraki introduces us to an amazing gemstone... moonstone!

CONTENTS

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Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com

29 COVER MODEL | Mariza Samaltanos PHOTOGRAPHER | Sotiris Skerlidis PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS | Ilaïra Kokkinogenis, Dimitris Georgousopoulos

All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CONTENTS

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DAVIDOR

BOUCHERON

To honor 160 years of creation and innovation, Boucheron has pursued a dream to push the limits of High Jewelry by granting eternal life to the beauty and vitality of nature.

DAVIDOR is not only the name of France’s newest jewellery maison ; it is the sobriquet of the brand’s founder, 29 year old David Gusky.

SUCIYAN’S ODYSSEY

ULYSSE NARDIN

Arman Suciyan’s debut collection contains within itself the kernel of every genesis myth: a spirit who makes the first beginning begin, setting the cycle of life in motion.

In sumptuous white or rose gold the Executive Tourbillon “Free Wheel” soars high above all expectations of what contemporary watchmaking craft and technology can achieve.

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DINA KAMAL

SHOWCASE

DINAKAMAL DK01 is a design practice focused on the experience of fascination - on creating works that have emotional impact.

Previously known as OUR FAVES, this new column is a window to a new world of craftsmanship, beauty and creativity. Discover amazing jewellery and timepieces and a unique new experience.

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ORTEA’S IMPERIUM

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Ortaea’s Imperium Collection began in 2016, as an engaging, mythical journey of Nature, Beliefs, Art and Jewels. Founder and designer Mita Vohra & the artist HH Rostislav Romanoﬀ sreate aa synergy of fearless perspectives and gracious humility.

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EXQUISITE TREASURES Sotheby’s upcoming auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels will bring together a highly impressive selection of world-class diamonds and gemstones, alongside signed pieces from prestigious maisons.

EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LETTER

EDITOR’S LETTER Few years ago, here on this column I made to you all a public confession that I am what some would call a “hopeless romantic.” I’m in love with love. But, I do not believe in the fairytale version of love. I have to distinguish delusions of “grandeur” and what it means to understand that love is about creating. Hopeless romantics are idealists, the imaginative and sentimental dreamers, not the creepy stalkers. I understand that love can be as ugly as it is beautiful. Love makes people say and do things that shouldn’t be said or done and sometimes turns people into horrible ones. So I would call myself “realistic hopeless romantic”, since I totally understand that love can become ugly, and I know what it takes to keep it beautiful and alive. I know that love is whatever we make of it. Some people blame love for their bad behavior, but I would answer to them that people are flawed, not love ! Love is a living, breathing thing. It requires attention and maintenance. Love depends almost entirely on how we perceive it but also from our own actions. The way we perceive reality is definitely influenced by our environment and our immediate surroundings. We are influenced by thousands of tiny variables — so much so that we don’t even see them as influences. I am “a hopeless romantic” who has suffered betrayal and heartbreak, who has once hated love, but managed to love it again, despite all its flaws and this made me incredibly strong. I know what I want and this magazine is one of the things I love to do. Every issue is full of my love and of the love of my amazing team. As a “hopeless romantic”, love gives me energy to dream, to create, to follow my dreams, to be a better person and to do everything I do in my life. When you love somebody or something you always find the time needed. If you don’t give a part of yourself, or of your time then you should by brutally honest to yourself and wonder if you really know what love is. Many people don’t, but I believe that I do. Love, time and creativity are intimately connected. Love is a creative force that requests time. It doesn’t have to be the focus of a creative work for it to inspire. It just has to exist. Love, in other words, is dreamy, and dreams are linked to creativity. Most artists and designers I have met the last twenty years have this point in common, they are almost all “hopeless romantics”. After all, if they weren’t they would not be the amazing artists they are today. Artists who are in love – or in love with the idea of love – tend to broaden their perspectives and look to the future. I had to publish once more this text for many reasons. This issue is dedicated to the love all artists have in their creative souls. It is dedicated to all the love we have in our soul, even if some people choose to hide it. It is dedicated to any kind of love because after all LOVE IS NEVER WRONG ! It is dedicated to love...past, present and future.

FOUNDER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JEWELLERY HISTORIAN MAGAZINE

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GUCCI

New snake-inspired pieces Page 7

Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW OUROBOROS JEWELRY

GUCCI

New snake-inspired pieces Gucci is extending the Gucci Ouroboros Fine Jewelry collection with new 18kt gold designs, each featuring turquoise embellishments or a feminine pavé of white diamonds. The new pieces include playful and contemporary snake rings of different widths (three turns or five turns), which can be layered together for a more dramatic effect. One three-turn ring and one five-turn ring are worked in hand-polished, finely engraved gold, with turquoise gemstones to represent the snake’s eyes. Another three-turn ring is encrusted with hand-set white diamond pavé to resemble snake scales, with a drop-cut diamond on top of the animal’s head. A further highlight is the snake ring necklace. Decorated with white diamonds and finished with a push clasp closure, this versatile design can be worn alone or with coordinating Gucci charms attached for personalized elegance. Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci is one of the world’s leading luxury fashion brands, with a renowned reputation for creativity, innovation and Italian craftsmanship. Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories that owns a portfolio of powerful luxury, sports and lifestyle brands.

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SUCIYAN

Odyssey new collection Page 11

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

SUCIYAN

Odyssey new collection

Arman Suciyan was born in 1972, and grew

Since 2004, Arman has been elaborating his

up in Istanbul, Turkey. He first began his

own designs. After a few years spent in Milan

career as a goldsmith apprentice in a

where he taught at the private jewellery

workshop, in the covered Bazaar at age 15.

school Scuola Orafa Ambrosiana, Arman

In 1988, he was accepted to work alongside Misak Toros, who represented the fourth generation of a Turkish Armenian family, with a long standing heritage of fine jewelry design and production. There, he was introduced to traditional skills of fine jewellery making, as well as to a strong architectural approach, and a sense of rigor from design to completion. Specifically, Arman perfected the art of wax carving and modelling, which he had begun exploring as an apprentice in the Bazaar.

returned to Istanbul in 2008, to fully dedicate himself to his craft and his own brand Suciyan. His work is characterized by sinuous forms and impossibly intricate detail and is the accumulation of his childhood memories of his home in Istanbul as well as many years spent living and working around the world.

His love of nature, sculpture,

texture and movement have been constant key elements in his design language.

His

collections are bold, working mostly with silver, in combination with bronze and gold, his heart and expertise lies in carving and

In 1994, after spending years at bench, he

modelling, rendering pieces that are

went on to attend the prestigious Kent

sculptural in nature. His ranges include the

Institute of Art & Design. Within his first year,

O d y s s e y, M e n ’s Co l l e c t i o n a n d t h e

he started to work for British Jeweller,

Dragonknot Series each exquisitely worked

Stephen Webster. Upon graduating, he then

in sterling silver, gold, bronze and precious

joined his small team of specialist craftsmen,

stones.

as a fulltime goldsmith and wax modeler. After ten years working amongst Stephen Webster's team, he became one of Stephen's greatest resources in modelling some of his most elaborate figurative pieces.

Arman has received various awards by the Goldsmiths Craft Council, as well as the prestigious DeBeers Jewellery Design Award. Odyssey The sun rises and sets and rises again, gem-like constellations revolve in the

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heavens, and from the soot and the seed, universes upon universes are born and born again. Arman Suciyan’s debut collection contains within itself the kernel of every genesis myth: a spirit who makes the first beginning begin, setting the cycle of life in motion. Within Suciyan’s sinuous forms and impossibly intricate detail lie the stories of the Phrygian Kybele, Babylonian Mylitta, Ancient Egypt’s Isis, or the Greek and Roman Persephone. His goddess has the power to bring life to any dead planet on which she alights and to leave her fecund essence to reside there for millions of years to come. When this heroine visits the Earth, she assumes the forms of birds that manifest her genius: the crane, the heron, the owl, the phoenix. This jewel-encrusted collection follows her evolution from a pure, elongated droplet into feathers and supple necks: sharp and soft, sublime and simple, motionless and a blur of motion, introducing a measure of order into primordial chaos. In the future, Suciyan will transform various stages of the goddess' creation saga into the foundation for episodic collections based on the four elements, Earth, Air, Fire and Water.

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DINA KAMAL Creative minimalism Page 23

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CREATIVE MINIMALISM

DINA KAMAL Creative minimalism

DINAKAMAL DK01 is a design practice

god, was identified as the supreme power in

focused on the experience of fascination -

the universe, created from primordial chaos.

on creating works that have emotional impact.

It is mainly associated with ‘creative power / energy’, Ra was often depicted in human

Founded in June 2010 by architect and

form with a sun disk crown encircled by a

designer Dina Kamal, DK01 operates

serpent.

through a variety of design sectors on projects of differing scales from fine jewelry, precious objects, and custom furniture.

The DK01 RA pinky ring acts as our silent e m p o w e r m e n t r i n g .  It’s available in two proportions for the pinky

Passionate about her work, Dina Kamal is

and ring finger; all handcrafted in 18Karat

inspired by the details that make design

gold, with or without diamonds.

timeless, and by simple refined forms.  Her first jewelry collection: The DK01 PNKYRNG Collection, re-defined the shape of the signet ring through a contemporary and architecturally informed aesthetic; and

The DK01 Tribal Earring Series includes small studies to understand the subtle/compellingproportionsand significance of tribal jewelry.

set its revival inspired by an elaborate

The DK01 Tribal Earrings are homage to the

history.

oval luscious tribal nose-rings and earrings,

Her approach to jewelry is unique. The pieces are informed by her affinity to history.

which existed in ancient tribes and cultures across the globe.

Her love of precious materials and objects.

They are precise in their dimensions and

Her devotion to craftsmanship. Her training

curves in proportion to the ear and neck;

a s a n a r c h i t e c t .

and meticulously handcrafted in 18K gold

Designed for both women and men, all

with or without diamonds.

pieces are inspired by a story, a commission, or a function.

The Tribal Earrings are available in three v a r i a t i o n s :

The DK01 RA ring holds its inspiration in

1- In plain handcrafted 18K gold (19g/pair),

ancient Egyptian mythology. RA, the sun

polished or brushed. Price: £4,750.

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2- In 18K handcrafted beige brushed

The DK01 Archery Ring is inspired by the

gold(19g/pair) with 390 brilliant natural white

Archery Thumb Ring, a brace designed to

diamonds VS/G(1.3ct). Price: £11,200.

protect the thumb in archery.

3- In 18K handcrafted blackened beige

Deities and heroes in many mythologies are

brushed gold (19g/pair) with 370 black

depicted as archers including Artemis and

diamonds VS/G(1.7ct). Price: £7,950.

Diana the Goddesses of hunting, Marduk

The Labyrinth Series is a tribute to Daedalus and the Minotaur: the part man part bull who dwelt in the center of the Labyrinth.

God and protector of Babylon, and of course Cupid the God of love and desire whose bow and arrow represent the source of power. Anyone who is hit by Cupid’s arrow is

As a structure the Labyrinth is conceptually

thus filled with uncontrollable passion and

and physically very compelling. It is a symbol

sets the plot in motion.

that creates a sacred space.

At DK01 we believe our rings possess magic,

The DK01 Labyrinth Earrings and Pendant

captured from all the deities and heroes

are designed with the circular structure

through time!

varying as it moves to the center where the diamond rests. They are handcrafted in18K raw beige gold slightly tinted with charcoal rhodium to create a special and unique finish to bring attention to light and shadow within the ridges; and to give it an imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete feel which makes its value even more understated, therefore highly precious. The DK01 Labyrinth Earrings are available in handcrafted 18K raw beige gold (27g per

The Series is available in four proportions: Artemis the thumb ring, Marduk the middle ring, Yi the classic ring, and Cupid the pinky ring. They are designed to wrap around the top of your finger, handcrafted in 18K raw unfinished gold, or in polished, or brushed finish. Also available with diamonds on order.

pair) faintly treated with black rhodium. They

The DK01 Torc Series is a consequence of a

have one natural white princess cut VS/G

study of ancient neck rings throughout

diamond in center (0.8ct). Price: £13,200.

history: The Torc as a senaul object and an

Labyrinth Cross Pendant in faintly blackened raw beige handcrafted gold (15g) and a natural white princess cut diamond VS/G in center (0.1ct). Also availabe without diamond (center void).

t h e n e c k i n i t s s p e c i fic l o c at i o n , i t automatically shifts the posture, hence the state of mind. A Torc is a single piece rigid neck ring open

Labyrinth Pendant in faintly blackened raw beige handcrafted gold (19g), ) and a natural white princess cut diamond VS/G in center (0.4ct).

object of empowerment, once it is placed on

at the front. It was mainly worn by men as a medal or trophy to demostrate rank, strength, and power. It has its roots in Mesopotania, Scythians, Ancients Greece and Rome; and finally with the Celts who are

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most identified with it throughout the Iron

Inspired by the rhythm of the spine and by

Age.

Mies Van Der Rohe’s skeleton towers, the

The Torc rests at lower edge of the neck artery/vein where it meets the curve where the shoulder begins. This position and the fact that the Torc is a solid single piece, gives

Spine Solid Earring has a gold frame structure that contains 16 diamonds held into place by the channels carved into the gold frame.

it a strong and sensual feel. It evokes an

The Solid Spine Earrings are handcrafted in

emotional reaction.

18k beige (raw white) brushed gold (11g);

The MM TORC has a special handcrafted mechanism that allows each diamond

with 32 Natural Baguette white diamonds VS/F.

cylinder the flexibility to move into location

Available in beige matt gold or blackened

on the body. It is 18K beige gold (raw white)

gold and white diamonds.

with 108 VVS/F diamonds

(16.3carats). A

unique piece designed and crafted with the DK01 process: The journey from inspiration to finished piece is rigorous, intense and sacred. A process that strips away the unnecessary so as to allow for a new form based on an intrinsic and structured reality. THE DK01 SPINE FLEXIBLE EARRINGS AMETHYST Inspired by the supple joints of the human spine, this earring is designed with a movable structure that allows for a soft movement and gives a delicate and graceful feel to the ear and neck. The Flexible Spine Amethyst Earrings is exquisitely handcrafted in 18k beige (raw white) gold (9g); with 9 natural baguette white diamonds VS/F and 2 Natural Amethysts. The Flexible Spine Earring is also available with an only diamond version, including 18 baguette diamonds for each earring (ear). THE DK01 SPINE SOLID EARRINGS

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DAVIDOR Tradition & Innovation Page 39

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | TRADITION & INNOVATION

DAVIDOR Tradition & Innovation

B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

DAVIDOR is not only the name of France’s

diamond and gem cutting atelier in Paris.

newest jewellery maison ; it is the sobriquet of

Every creation is born from a “croquis” or

the brand’s founder, 29 year old David Gusky.

sketch, hand painted as a traditional gouache,

A French brand that combines both tradition

carved in wax and ultimately brought to life in

and innovation, DAVIDOR balances

18k gold and platinum.

contemporary luxury with jewellery expertise, an expertise that was undoubtedly inherited from Gusky’s parents who were formerly the largest American suppliers of fine gold jewellery. After attending the prestigious business school, Babson College, in Boston, DAVIDOR attended the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in New York and traveled extensively around the world to map out the ultimate architectural inspiration for his brand

The finest diamonds and gemstones are set by hand on each piece using the meticulous scrutiny and quality control to ensure a beautiful and sparkling creation. The ancient savoir-faire of lacquer is applied by hand to each piece and polished to perfection. DAVIDOR supports and perpetuates the art of skilled jewelers that is so deeply rooted in Paris.

identity : the Arch. From the jewelers’ benches

D A V I D O R e x p a n d s i t ’s e x c l u s i v e

in Valenza, Italy to the golden hans of France’s

international offering to include Moda

finest workshops, DAVIDOR’s craftsmanship

Operandi and Bergdorf Goodman. Currently

and values are delivately ingrained in every

sold in the maison’s Rue de la Paix showroom

stunning piece of jewelry that the brand has to

just off Place Vendôme as well as in Valer &

offer.

Barichella (Nice), Julian Joaillier (Saint-Tropez,

The finest jewelers in the historical

Courchevel), and Frost of London (London).

Parisian atelier craft each piece of DAVIDOR

In the US, DAVIDOR is exclusively

jewellery by hand. Using the most advanced

available at Betteridge (Greenwich, CT Aspen

technologies combined to ancestral and

and Vail, CO, and Palm Beach, FL), Hamilton

ancient artisans know, DAVIDOR proudly

Jewelers (Princeton, NJ and Palm Beach

certifies all of it’s creations with a Joaillerie de

Gardens, FL), and Weston Jewelers (Weston,

France stamp, guaranteeing that it is a 100%

FL). DAVIDOR’s launch with Moda Operandi

“Made in France” product.

and Bergdorf Goodman is a part of the

DAVIDOR designed, developed and

brand’s global expansion plans for 2018-2019.

patented the DAVIDOR Arch Cut Diamond and DAVIDOR Arch Cut Gemstone in their

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“Queen Marie Antoinette’s Pearl”. Exceptional and highly important natural pearl and diamond pendant, 18th century. Estimate: $ 1-2 million Page 71

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

ROYAL JEWELS FROM THE BOURBON PARMA FAMILY  On 14 November, 2018, in Geneva, Royal

with jewels than that of Marie Antoinette. Her

Jewels from the Bourbon Parma Family will be

great love of pearls and diamonds is

offered at auction for the first time, including

well-known and a number of historians have

treasures which belonged to France’s ill-fated

cited Napoleon’s view, that the so-called “affair

queen, Marie Antoinette (1755–1793). During

of the diamond necklace” – a scandal which

an international tour of public exhibitions in

tarnished the queen’s reputation in 1785 – was

the coming weeks, jewellery-lovers will be

one of the causes of the French Revolution1.

able to view these historic jewels, which carry with them more than 200 years of European history.

The impressive ensemble of jewels to be offered this autumn has an extraordinary story. In March 1791, King Louis XVI, Marie

An initial announcement in June captured

Antoinette and their children began to

the world’s imagination, when it was revealed

prepare their escape from France. According

that Sotheby’s would offer this extraordinary

to accounts written by Marie Antoinette’s lady

collection of treasures in Geneva. The sale

in waiting, Madame Campan, the queen spent

includes pieces which can be traced back to

an entire evening in the Tuileries Palace

Marie Antoinette – led by an extraordinary

wrapping all of her diamonds, rubies and

diamond and natural pearl pendant estimated

pearls in cotton and placing them in a wooden

at $1-2 million (right), as well treasures from

chest. In the following days, the jewels were

her brother-in- law, King Charles X of France

sent to Brussels, which was under the rule of

(1757-1836), the Archdukes of Austria and the

the queen’s sister, Archduchess

Dukes of Parma. On September 28, in Hong

Marie-Christine and which was home to Count

Kong, Sotheby’s revealed further details of the

Mercy Argentau. The count, the former

collection: additional lots in the sale which can

Austrian Ambassador to Paris, was one of the

be traced back to Marie Antoinette, as well as

only men who had retained the queen’s trust.

major pieces with connections to the imperial

It was he who took delivery of the jewels and

family of Austria. Below are details which

sent them on to Vienna, into the safe keeping

confirm the exceptional quality of the

of the Austrian Emperor, Marie Antoinette’s

collection and deepen our understanding of

nephew.

the family’s rich and illustrious history.

Altogether, the collection includes 10

MARIE ANTOINETTE: ADDITIONAL JEWELS

jewels which belonged to Marie Antoinette.

IN THE COLLECTION

In 1792, the royal family was imprisoned

Never in the course of history has the

in the Temple tower. Louis XVI and Marie

destiny of a queen been so closely associated

Antoinette were executed by guillotine in

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Important natural pearl and diamond necklace Composed of three rows of slightly graduated natural pearls measuring from approximately 7.30 to 9.30mm, the clasp set to the centre with a star motif highlighted with cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds, length approximately 380mm, later clasp fitting with maker's and Austrian assay marks for gold. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93536, stating that one hundred and sixteen pearls were found to be natural, saltwater and three were found to be natural, freshwater. Estimate: $ 200,000 – 300,000 These pearls were originally strung in a longer three row pearl necklace, together with other lots from this auction, belonging to Queen Marie Antoinette. Please refer to catalogue for an illustration of the necklace in its original form.

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Each surmount set with a button shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 12.65 x 12.95 x 15.60mm and 12.95 x 13.10 x 16.00mm respectively, the reverse set with rose diamonds, supporting a detachable pendant set with an oval natural pearl measuring approximately 10.25 x 10.50 x 8.55mm and 10.15 x 10.20 x 7.70mm respectively, capped with rose diamonds, and a pinched collet-set cushion-shaped diamond, early 19th century, hook and hinged back fittings. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93538, stating that the pearls were found to be natural, saltwater. Formerly in the collection of Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France (1755-1793). Page 77

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Important pair of natural pearl and diamond pendent earrings, late 18th century

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Composed of a slightly graduated row of natural pearls measuring from approximately 7.30mm to 9.40mm, to a detachable clasp millegrain-set with cushion-shaped diamonds, length approximately 380mm, one cultured pearl.Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93535, stating that thirty-nine pearls were found to be natural, saltwater, and one pearl was found to be cultured. These pearls were originally strung in a three row pearl necklace, together with other lots of the auction, belonging to Queen Marie Antoinette. Please refer to the auction catalogue for an illustration of the necklace in its original form. Page 78

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Fine natural pearl and diamond necklace

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Exceptional and highly important natural pearl and diamond pendant, 18th century Set with an oval diamond supporting a diamond bow motif and a slightly baroque drop shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 15.90 x 18.35 x 25.85mm, hook and hinged back fitting, the pearl and diamond bow motif were suspended from Marie Antoinette’s three strand pearl necklace; the single stone oval diamond surmount formed the clasp of that same necklace (see page *** for an illustration of Marie Antoinette pearl necklace and inventory description), together with an original fitted case mentioned in Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon Parme’s inventory for the three row pearl necklace , the single row, the pair of pearl and diamond earrings and the pearl and diamond pendant. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93539, stating that the pearl was found to be natural, saltwater, together with an appendix letter. Estimate: $ 1-2 million Formerly in the collection of Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France (1755-1793).

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Two diamond and woven hair rings, 18th century, and a diamond and woven hair jewel, 19th century Estimate: $ 20,000-50,000 Left page : Portrait of Marie Antoinette, Jean François Janinet, after Jean-Baptiste-André Gautier Dagoty, 1777 Page 84

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The detachable clasp set with natural pearls measuring from approximately 6.95 to 7.65mm, 18th century, to six detachable rows of cultured pearls measuring from approximately 6.40 to 6.00mm, each row framed by single-cut diamonds, shortest length approximately 370mm, the pair of earrings, each set with a brilliant-cut diamond and a cultured blister pearl, hook fittings, maker's mark, and the undrilled baroque drop shaped cultured pearl weighing 35.02 carats, measuring approximately 21.10 x 17.05 x 15.10mm. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 102266, stating that the pearls on the clasp were found to be natural, saltwater. Estimate: $ 5,000 – 8,000 The clasp was formerly part of a six row pearl bracelet – one of a pair – which belonged to Queen Marie Antoinette (1755-1793). Page 85

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Natural pearl clasp, 18th century, and a cultured pearl and diamond necklace, a pair of cultured pearl earrings and an unmounted cultured pearl

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Of double ribbon bow design set with cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, second half of the 18th century, supporting a detachable pendant set with a pear-shaped diamond of yellow tint, probably early 19th century. Estimate: $ 50,000-80,000 The Farnese Blue The double ribbon bow from Marie Antoinette, Queen of France (1755-1793). Historic and highly important fancy dark grey-blue diamond weighing 16.16 carats Estimate: CHF 3,500,000 – 5,000,000 / US$ 3,690,000 – 5,270,000 Page 86

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Diamond brooch, second half of the 18th century

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

1793 and their 10-year old son, Louis XVII,

cultured pearls (Estimate CHF 5,000 – 8,000 /

died in captivity. The king and queen’s only

$5,000 – 8,000, illustrated left).

surviving child, Marie-Thérèse de France (1778-1851), “Madame Royale”, was released in December 1795, after three years of solitary confinement. After learning of the deaths of her mother and brother, she was sent to Austria. Upon her arrival in Vienna in 1796, she was given her mother’s jewels by her cousin, the emperor. Having borne no children of her own, Madame Royale bequeathed part of her jewellery collection to her niece and adopted daughter, Louise of

Five fascinating diamond jewels to be auctioned in November can be traced back to Marie Antoinette. Among them is a stunning diamond brooch from the late 18th century, featuring a beautiful yellow diamond. The double ribbon bow was formerly part of Marie Antoinette’s collection, and it is thought that the yellow diamond pendant was added at a later date (Estimate CHF 50,000 – 80,000 / $50,000 – 80,000).

France (1819–1864), Duchess of Parma and

Created as a memento, a diamond ring

grand-daughter of Charles X, King of France

bearing initials MA for Marie Antoinette and

(1757-1836), who in turn left them to her son,

containing a lock of her hair provides a

Robert I (1848-1907), the last ruling Duke of

fascinatingly intimate link to the queen

Parma.

(illustrated left). It is offered together with a

In addition to the exquisite pearl jewels announced in June, several more pearl jewels to be offered in November belonged to Marie Antoinette, including a beautiful pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings (Estimate CHF 200,000 – 300,000 / $ 200,000 – 300,000, pictured above left). Also from Marie Antoinette is a superb single- strand natural pearl necklace (Estimate CHF 40,000 – 70,000 / $40,000 – 70,000, pictured above). This beautiful six-strand pearl necklace also provides a direct link to the iconic queen of France. Its clasp - which remains unaltered today - was part of her collection, and features five large and 18 smaller natural pearls. In Marie Antoinette’s day, it formed the clasp of a six-row natural pearl bracelet, o n e o f a p a i r. Th e n e c k l a c e w a s commissioned by later generations of the Bourbon Parma family and strung with

ring with the monogram and hair of her father-in-law, Louis, Dauphin of France (1729-1765) who died before he could ascend the throne, and a diamond plaque bearing the monogram MT set in diamonds, which refers to Marie-Thérèse of Savoie (1803-1879), Duchess of Parma and wife of Charles II, Duke of Parma (Estimate for the two rings and plaque: CHF 20,000 – 50,000 / $20,000 – 50,000). By family tradition, the diamonds adorning this beautiful brooch belonged to Marie Antoinette. In her detailed inventory of the family’s jewels, Maria Anna of Austria (1882- 1940), explains she was informed of the history of the brooch by her father-in-law, Robert I of Parma (1848-1907), who presented it to her on the occasion of her engagement to his son, Elie de Bourbon Parme (1880-1959) (Estimate CHF 95,000 – 140,000 / $ 95,000 – 140,000).

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Estimate: $ 95,000-140,000 Given to Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria (1882-1940), by her father-in-law, Duke Robert I of Parma (1848-1907), on the occasion of her engagement to Prince Elie de Bourbon-Parme (1880-1959). By family tradition, the diamonds come from Marie Antoinette, Queen of France Page 88

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Diamond brooch, late 19th century Of bow design, set with a central cushion-shaped diamond of yellow tint, and cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, fitted case stamped Hübner, the exterior of the case with a crowned monogram MA for Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon-Parme.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Also passed down through generations

order to retrieve diamonds and gemstones,

of Marie Antoinette’s descendants is a

so they could be re-used as fashions evolved.

diamond ring decorated with her portrait, made in the late 18th century. In her will, Marie Antoinette’s daughter, Marie Thérèse de France (also known as Madame Royale),  mentions that the portrait, which is set within a frame of pearls, is a likeness of her mother (Estimate CHF 8,000 – 12,000 / $ 8,000 – 12,000).

The diamonds which adorn the tiara came from a badge of the Royal Order of the Holy Spirit, a French order of chivalry founded by King Henri III in 1578. The insignia was originally owned by Charles X, Marie Antoinette’s brother-in-law. The diamonds later passed to Robert I, Duke of Parma (1848-1907). The tiara was created

Marie Antoinette’s passion for Jewellery

using the precious stones around 1912 for

also extended to fine watches, as is

A rc h d u c h e s s M a r i a A n n a o f A u s t r i a

evidenced by this pocket watch. Although the

(1882-1940) by the celebrated Vienna

movement of the watch has been changed,

jeweller Hübner, who designed it to allow the

its case - in blue enamel and encrusted with

w e a r e r t o e x p l o r e d i f f e r e n t s t y l e s :

pearls - belonged to the queen. It bears the

the fleur de lys motifs of this stunning piece

initials M.A. on the inside of the case, along

can be detached and worn separately as

with three fleur de lys motifs (Estimate CHF

brooches. The frame of Charles X’s order

1,000 – 2,000 / $1,000 – 2,000).

(illustrated above left), which originally held

JEWELS FROM THE FRENCH ROYAL FAMILY

the diamonds, has remained in the family and will also be offered in November (Estimate CHF 150 - 300 / $150 - 300).

The collection is also highlighted by jewels that belonged to King Charles X (1757-1836), the last King of France and last of the Bourbon rulers, his son, the Duke of Angoulême and their descendants. Resolutely conservative, accused by his own brother Louis XVI of being “plus royaliste que le roi” (more royalist than the king), Charles X

Extraordinary in its workmanship and powerful symbolism, this jeweled badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece (illustrated right) belonged to Louis Antoine of Bourbon, Duke of Angoulême (1775-1844), who married Marie-Antoinette’s daughter, his cousin.

revived a number of orders of chivalry which

The Order of the Golden Fleece is widely

had been abolished during the French

considered to be the most prestigious and

revolution and under Napoleon’s rule.

exclusive order of chivalry in the world. It is

Th i s b re a t h t a k i n g d i a m o n d t i a ra (estimate CHF 340,000 – 540,000 / $ 350,000 – 550,000) offers a fascinating insight into how precious objects were disassembled in

likely that Louis Antoine received the badge following his participation in the Spanish Expedition of 1823, thanks to which his cousin, Ferdinand of Bourbon was restored as absolute king of Spain. A sumptuous example of the order’s symbol,

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The riband carrier set with five cushion-shaped diamonds, supporting three detachable pieces, the first of laurel wreath design set with a cushion-shaped diamond, framed by similarly cut diamonds, width 56.5mm, the second representing the flintstone centering a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 8.90 carats, embellished with circular-cut rubies, and the third forming the Golden Fleece Badge itself, set with cushion-shaped diamonds, the reverse of textured gold, elements may be worn separately, two brooch fittings, a triple-link white and yellow gold chain, length approximately 149mm, fitted case with the coat of arms of the Duke of Angoulême.Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93528, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. Estimate: $ 300,000-400,000 Louis-Antoine de Bourbon, Duc d’Angoulême and Comte de Marnes (1775-1844), the eldest son of Charles X, who was Grand Admiral of France from 1814 to 1830 (a position which would have been recognised by the inclusion of crossed anchors in the Bourbon arms). Page 90

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Sapphire, ruby and diamond neck badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece, circa 1820

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Superb diamond parure

Estimate: $ 300,000 – 500,000 The diamonds from this parure come from Charles Ferdinand d’Artois, Duc de Berry (1778-1820), Charles X’s son; Marie-Thérèse de France, Madame Royale, Marie Antoinette’s daughter (1778-1851); and Princess Isabelle de Croÿ, Archduchess Frédéric of Austria (1856-1931).

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Comprising: a diamond rivière composed of a slightly graduated row of cushion-shaped diamonds in pinched collets, supporting detachable pendants set with pear-shaped stones, each link detachable, length approximately 390mm, a brooch set with cushion-shaped diamonds, supporting three detachable pendants set with pear-shaped diamonds, may be worn as a clasp for the diamond rivière, and a pair of earrings, each set with a cushion-shaped diamond, post and hinged back fittings, fitted case.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Diamond and emerald Order of the Saint-Esprit, France, circa 1820

Estimate: $ 100,000-150,000 Louis-Antoine de Bourbon, Duc d’Angoulême and Comte de Marnes (1775-1844), the eldest son of Charles X, who was Grand Admiral of France from 1814 to 1830 (a position which would have been recognised by the inclusion of crossed anchors in the Bourbon arms).

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The badge of conventional form with the Holy Dove set with rose and cushion-shaped diamonds, embellished with circular-cut emeralds, the beak embellished with a ruby cabochon, superimposed on a Maltese Cross similarly set, height 109mm (including suspension) and width 72mm, one small emerald deficient, fitted case with the coat of arms of Duke of Angoulême.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

beneath a large white diamond this

conjures up images of the glamour and

badge features the traditional French royal

elegance of the Austrian court. Originally part

symbol, the oriflamme, represented by a

of the collection of Queen Isabella II of Spain

central sapphire, surrounded by flames

(1830-1904), the set was later purchased by

composed of rubies. The fleece of the ram

Archduke and Archduchess Frédéric of

forms the lower part of the jewel, realized in

Austria and inherited by their daughter, Maria

gold and diamonds (Estimate CHF 300,000 –

Anna, Archduchess of Austria (1882-1940),

390,000 / $300,000 – 400,000).

who mentions it in her inventory of the family

B o a s t i n g t h e s a m e ex t ra o rd i n a r y provenance, this plaque of the Royal Order of

jewels (Estimate CHF 150,000 – 250,000 / $150,000 – 250,000).

the Holy Spirit (right) was awarded to Louis

A diamond bow brooch from the 18th

Antoine, Duke of Angoulême before being

century also stands out among the jewels

passed down through the generations to

from the Austrian side of the Bourbon-Parma

Robert I, son of Charles III of Parma and

family. It originally belonged to Empress

Louise de France (and Marie Antoinette’s

Marie Thérèse of Austria (1717-1780), Marie

great-nephew). The most prestigious French

Antoinette’s mother, and later to Archduke

order of chivalry during its 252 years of

Rainier of Austria (1827-1913) before passing

existence (1578-1830), it was abolished

down through the family to Maria Anna. Its

during the French Revolution, and then

intricate design and workmanship illustrate

revived by Charles X who restored the

the quality of jewels created for the royal

ceremonies of the Order. The loop at the top

family. (Estimate CHF 75,000 – 110,000 /

of the badge (adorned with baguette- and

$75,000 – 110,000).

round-cut diamonds) was designed so that the order could be worn on a tie without having to alter the jewel (Estimate CHF 100,000 – 150,000 / $100,000 – 150,000).

In her inventory, Maria Anna recorded that this delightful diamond brooch, with a yellow sapphire in its centre (illustrated right), originally belonged to her mother, Princess

ROYAL TREASURES OF AUSTRIA

Isabella of Croÿ (1856-1931) (Estimate CHF

Fr o m a s e p a r a t e b r a n c h o f t h i s prestigious family, the collection to be offered in November will also include sumptuous jewels passed down through the Bourbon Parma family from the imperial family of Austria. This beautiful Burmese ruby and diamond set, composed of a brooch and a p a i r o f e a r r i n g s ,  dates from the turn of the last century. It

40,000 – 65,000 / $40,000 – 65,000). Maria Anna received these simple yet elegant diamond earrings (left) from her father, Archduke Frédéric, on the occasion of her wedding in 1903 (Estimate CHF 50,000 – 80,000 / $50,000 – 80,000). Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744. Sotheby’s became the first international auction house when it expanded from London to New York (1955), the first to

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Historic diamond brooch, 18th century Of bow design, set with cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, centre cluster detachable, fitted case stamped Hübner.

Formerly in the collection of Empress Marie Thérèse of the Holy Roman Empire (1717-1780) Archduchess Marie Christine of Austria (1742-1798), married to Prince Albert of Saxony, Duke of Teschen Archduke Charles of Austria (1771-1847), married to Henriette de Nassau-Weilburg Archduchess Marie Caroline of Austria-Taschen (1825-1915), married to Archduke Rainier of Austria (1827-1913) Archduke Frédéric of Austria (1856-1936) Page 95

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Estimate: $ 75,000-110,000

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Yellow sapphire and diamond brooch, late 19th century

Estimate: $ 40,000-65,000 Given to Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon-Parme (1882-1940) by her mother, Princess Isabelle de Croÿ, Archduchess Frédéric of Austria (1856-1931) on the occasion of her own 70th birthday in 1926.

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Of floral design, set with an oval yellow sapphire weighing 11.99 carats, the petals set with cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, detachable brooch fitting, two small diamonds deficient.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India (1992) and France (2001), and the first international fine art auction house in China (2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in 10 different salesrooms, including New York, London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s BidNow program allows visitors to view all auctions live online and place bids from anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers collectors the resources of Sotheby’s Financial Services, the world’s only full-service art financing company, as well as the collection advisory services of its subsidiary, Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents private sale opportunities in more than 70 categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two retail businesses, Sotheby’s Diamonds and Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global network of 80 offices in 40 countries and is the oldest company listed on the New York Stock Exchange (BID). *Estimates do not include buyer’s premium. Prices achieved include the hammer price plus buyer’s premium and are net of any fees paid to the purchaser where the purchaser provided an irrevocable bid.

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Estimate: $ 150,000 – 250,000 Formerly in the collection of Marie-Thérèse de Savoie, Duchess of Parma (1803-1879).

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Pair of diamond pendent earrings, first half of the 19th century Of girandole design, each set with cushion-shaped diamonds supporting three pear-shaped diamond pendants, hook and clip fittings, surmounts detachable, fitted case signed Froment-Meurice.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Fine ruby and diamond brooch/hair ornament, Bachruch, circa 1900

Estimate: $ 200,000 – 300,000 Given by Archduke Frédéric of Austria (1856-1936) to his daughter, Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon-Parme (1882-1940) on the occasion of the birth of her son, Charles, in 1905.

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Designed as a bow of circular-cut and rose diamonds, set at the centre with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 6.89 carats, within a border of cushion-shaped diamonds, central cluster detachable, may be worn as a pendant with an additional fitting, brooch and hair comb fittings, fitted case stamped Bachruch A. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93527, stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

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Diamond tiara, Hübner, 1912

Estimate: $ 350,000-550,000 The diamonds in the tiara were originally set in the plaque of the order of the Saint-Esprit of Charles X, King of France (1757-1836) (lot 85).

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Decorated with fleur de lys motifs millegrain-set with cushion-, pear-shaped, circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds, the three largest motifs detachable, may be worn as brooches with five additional brooch fittings, tiara inner circumference approximately 250mm, Austrian assay marks for gold and maker's mark, fitted case stamped Hübner. Accompanied by original documentation from Hübner dated 1912.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Claw-set at the centre with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 30.70 carats, within a border of circular-cut diamonds, detachable brooch fitting, together with a later pendant fitting and chain, Austrian assay and partial maker's marks.Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93529, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. Estimate: $ 150,000 – 250,000 Given by Princess Isabelle de Croÿ, Archduchess Frédéric of Austria (1856-1931), to her daughter, Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria (1882-1940), on the occasion of her wedding to Prince Elie de Bourbon-Parme (1880-1959) in 1903. Page 103

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Impressive sapphire and diamond brooch, circa 1900

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Collet-set with a round modified brilliant-cut fancy orangy pink diamond weighing 2.44 carats, framed with circular-cut diamonds, size 39, case stamped Schwarz und Steiner. Accompanied by GIA report no. 1182587939, stating that the diamond is Fancy Orangy Pink, Natural Colour, SI2 Clarity. Estimate: $ 120,000 – 180,000 Given by Archduke Frédéric of Austria (1856-1936) to his daughter, Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon Parme (1882-1940), on the occasion of the birth of her son, Robert, in 1909. Page 104

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Impressive fancy orangy pink diamond ring, circa 1909

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Pair of ruby and diamond earrings, late 19th century, and a ruby and diamond brooch, 20th century Each earring set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 4.52 and 5.05 carats respectively, within a frame of cushion-shaped diamonds, the brooch set with a similarly shaped ruby weighing 23.76 carats, surrounded by circular-cut diamonds, detachable brooch fitting, chain, fitted case stamped Hübner, the brooch modified at a later date.Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93530, stating that the rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating and a minor amount of oil in fissures. Estimate: $ 150,000-250,000 Formerly in the collection of Queen Isabelle II of Spain (1830-1904), purchased by Archduke and Archduchess Frédéric of Austria.

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Estimate: $ 25,000 – 35,000 Given by Charles III, Duke of Parma and Piacenza (1823-1854), to his daughter-in-law, Princess Marie Pie de Bourbon-Siciles (1849-1882), on the occasion of her wedding with Prince Robert de Bourbon-Parme (1848-1907) in 1869.

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Diamond pendant/brooch, circa 1869 The circular panel set with cushion-shaped diamonds, supporting a pendant set with a pear- and cushion-shaped diamonds, detachable brooch, pendant and suspension loop, additional bar fitting, fitted case stamped Moritz Hübner, the exterior of the case with the monogram and coronet for Princess Marie Pie de Bourbon-Siciles.

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L’ORCHESTRE JOAILLIER Manifest of a generation Page 109

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE BIRTH OF A MASTERPIECE

L’ORCHESTRE JOAILLIER Manifest of a generation BY CHRISTIAN GOUGENHEIN

Jewellery is a body of collective work in which each member of the orchestra plays his score and

jewel which then becomes the explosive reflection of its sponsor.

expresses the excellence of his art.

A mysterious scenography composed of

The culmination of the work is the fruit of a

unexpected materials, sublimated around a ring

unique symbiosis, where each one is equally

transformable into a brooch or jumper clip that

important. The technique and precision of the

reveals exceptional techniques.

gesture are at their highest expectation to reveal a panel of emotions.

A year of photo and video reporting to reveal to the public this passionate adventure.

8 artists unite ! Frédéric Mané, Victor Borel, Atelier Miix ( Marie Grimaud, Félix Albert), Marie Oberlin, Jonathan Bauché, William Amor, Sylvain

A one of kind tailored symphony!

Cahuet, Yoann L’hostellier.

The symphony of custom-made excess!

The jeweller's orchestra is the alliance of a new

Genesis of the BOA ring

generation of passionate creatives and masters of t h e i r k n o w - h o w. S o m e o f t h e s e y o u n g

A rebellious ring?

entrepreneurs have dedicated years behind the scenes of big houses, others are recognized artists showcased throughout the world.All creators of confidential and rare pieces.

Ring of "dis-engagement", rupture or affirmation?

Rebellion or vision

Requested by a mysterious patron, this

‘Jeweller art’ is thought here in a global and collective vision. Each one expresses his talent in equal parts, shares his technical heritage and reveals his ‘artistic innovations’.

polyphonic ring creation is unique. It is the fruition of the deconstruction of an engagement ring. It affirms and symbolizes the new life of it’s sponsor. It reveals a new design, bright and colorful, that links tradition and innovation.

The general idea is to affirm strong convictions of sharing around a common goal!

This special custom-made order is the starting point of the jeweller's orchestra. All the resulting

Revelation of the jewellery orchestra compositions:

creations are inspired by this order, affirming our creative manifesto.

A sulphureous ring breaking the codes of the engagement, offering a new life to the original

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE BIRTH OF A MASTERPIECE

" The greatness of a trade is above all to unite men; there is one veritable luxury and that is of human relations "

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Antoine de Saint Exupéry

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMSTONES

MOONSTONE

The breathtaking beauty of gemstones Page 143

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMSTONES

MOONSTONE The breathtaking beauty of gemstones B Y E VA KO U N TO U R A K I

The myth has it that she was a beautiful

feldspar group of minerals. The feldspars are

goddess with long wings and a golden diadem

widespread minerals and include many species

who would light up the night’s sky as she rode

and varieties. They are found in many different

across the heavens in her chariot drawn by two

rocks and not all of them are of gemological

long-maned white horses.

The important Greek

interest or jewelry usefulness. Moonstone comes in

tragedian Aeschylus calls her “the eye of the night”

various colours but the most prized variety is the

as she was considered to be the moon personified.

one that exhibits a blue sheen glowing over a

Her name was Selene, or Latin Luna, and she was

colorless body; a sheen that lazily but faithfully

the majestic goddess of the moon.

follows the light source’s movement across the

Aphrodite was the fierce goddess of beauty,

stone.

love, sexuality, pleasure and procreation. She was

The key to adularescence, this optical

the divine symbol of the attraction that binds

phenomenon observed in moonstone, lies in the

people together. The cult of Aphrodite is

internal structure if the mineral. In fact, moonstone

profoundly antique: it was most probably imported

is comprised of two different feldspars, albite and

by the cult of Astarte which was inspired by the cult

orthoclase, that are initially intergrown and

of the Babylonian goddess Ishtar, which in turn was

eventually, as the mineral’s temperature drops and

derived from the worship of the mighty Sumerian

the final gem completes its crystallization process,

goddess Inanna.

the two feldspars separate in alternating thin

The two together were combined to create a powerful name given to a particular gemstone. “Aphroselene” is the alternative name to an apparently quiet and pale gem, largely known as moonstone. Since the earliest times, moonstone appeared “magical” to humans. With its internal glow, triggered only when light is shed on it, and its resemblance to the moon shining in the sky,

sheets, giving the mineral its characteristic layered structure. As the light strikes this structure, it crosses the transparent layers and scatters between the feldspar sheets; a diffraction phenomenon that results in the creation of a billowy light that appears to glow just below the gemstone’s surface, and elegantly dance across the gem with the slightest motion of the light source or the gemstone itself.

moonstone was dedicated to travelers – in fact it is

Sri Lanka is a traditional source of moonstones,

also known as the travelers stone- and worn as a

while other sources include Myanmar, Madagascar,

protective amulet especially when traveling during

Brazil and India and Australia. Ancient Romans

the night time, or it was given as a gift between

thought that moonstones were solidified

lovers for the preservation of their passion.

moonlight, while in Hindu mythology moonstone

Moonstone is a variety of the species orthoclase that belongs to the potassium-rich

was considered to be created from moonbeams; moonstone still keeps its significant role in India, as

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it is a gem that is typically set in yellow gold and used in important events. The most common cutting style for moonstones is a high-dome cabochon in order to enhance the appearance of its beautiful phenomenon. Carvings are also very popular as the adularescence appears to caress the curves and motifs of the engraving in a very attractive way. Venere and Luna, Aphrodite and Selene, Sin and Ishtar, these couples of powerful deities gave their names, symbolisms and myth to a gemstone, and throughout the history, inspired humans to weave endless tales and create art in all its forms. Keep this in mind and take a moment to look at this “silent force” that is your moonstone. Then, think of that: the two brightest objects visible in the night’s sky are the Moon and planet Venus. Now picture the most beautiful goddesses of all the civilizations, all the religions and of all times. And now, take another look at your moonstone. Are you in love yet?

We invite you to discover jewellery set with moonstone on the official Instagram account of the Jewellery Historian.

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EXQUISITE TREASURES Exquisite treasures of nature brought to life by the hand of man

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

EXQUISITE TREASURES Exquisite treasures of nature brought to life by the hand of man B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A

S o t h e b y ’s u p c o m i n g a u c t i o n o f

EXTRAORDINARILY RARE BLUE DIAMONDS

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 15 November 2018 will bring together a highly impressive selection of world-class diamonds and gemstones, alongside signed pieces from the world’s most prestigious jewellery houses. Led by a group of extraordinarily rare blue diamonds, the auction highlights also include stunning white diamonds and diamond jewels and exceptional coloured gemstones.

Fancy Vivid Blue is the most sought-after hue for blue diamonds, which are already enormously rare. The superb stones adorning these earrings weigh 2.61 and 3.06 carats respectively, and the style of the earrings is wonderfully feminine and flattering (Lot 570, estimate $ 8 – 10 million / CHF 7,940,000 – 9,920,000).

Signatures in the sale range from Harry

Of the same exquisite colour, this Fancy

Winston to Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari

Vivid Blue diamond ring weighs 5.04 carats. Its

and Pederzani.

rectangular cut perfectly complements the

Speaking ahead of the sale, David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s

hue (Lot 566, estimate $ 9 – 12 million / CHF 8,930,000 – 11,920,000)

International Jewellery Division, commented,

Graded by the Gemological Institute of

“Our autumn sale offers a carefully curated

America (GIA) as Fancy Intense Blue, this

selection of jewels which have resonated with

stunning brilliant-cut diamond weighs 2.02

jewellery lovers and connoisseurs the world

carats. Its appeal for jewellery connoisseurs

over. We are thrilled to be presenting

will no doubt be enhanced by its extraordinary

sensational diamonds – both coloured stones

clarity: it has been classed as Internally

and extremely fine D-colour white diamonds –

Flawless (Lot 548, estimate $2 – 3 million /CHF

as well as vibrant coloured gemstones and

1,990,000 – 2,980,000).

signed pieces, to complement the finest of jewellery collections. It has been a pleasure for our team to bring together these extraordinary natural treasures, brought to life by the artistry and skill of the world’s finest diamond cutters and jewellers.”

Alongside these exceptional blue diamonds, a superb Fancy Light Pink diamond is also sure to turn heads. Weighing 21.19 carats, this cushion-shaped stone has been found by the GIA to be of ‘Type IIa’ -

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

PROPERTY FROM A DISTINGUISHED EUROPEAN PRIVATE COLLECTION Rare fancy vivid blue diamond ring Estimate 8,930,000 — 11,920,000 CHF Page 149

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

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PROPERTY FROM A DISTINGUISHED EUROPEAN PRIVATE COLLECTION Rare pair of fancy vivid blue diamond pendent earrings Estimate 7,940,000 — 9,920,000 CHF

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STUNNING WHITE DIAMONDS

Internally Flawless after minor repolishing.

Following the sale of two magnificent white diamonds of more than 50 carats at Sotheby’s Geneva in May, we are delighted to offer a remarkable selection including showstopping stones and captivating

What is more, it belongs to that most exclusive category of diamonds, Type IIa (Lot 563, estimate $ 3-4 million / CHF 2,980,000 – 3,970,000). WORLD-CLASS COLOURED GEMSTONES

diamond jewels in November. Among the highlights is an exceptional pear-shaped stone weighing an impressive 40.18 carats, whose D-Colour grading is the most coveted of all for white diamonds (Lot 565, estimate $2,500,000 – 3,500,000 / CHF 2,480,000 – 3,480,000).

In addition to world-class diamonds, our Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sales regularly offer record-breaking coloured gemstones of the finest quality. In November, we will present this remarkable Burmese sapphire weighing 69.99 carats, mounted as a ring by Cartier. According to the Gübelin

40 years after he passed away, the legacy

gem laboratory, “it displays a distinctive and

of American jeweller Harry Winston endures.

richly saturated” Royal Blue coloration (the

Among the stand-out lots of the November

most desirable hue). The laboratory’s experts

sale in Geneva will be a magnificent diamond

add that ‘such a combination of remarkable

necklace bearing the Harry Winston

characteristics is very rare in Burmese

signature. The nine largest diamonds on the

sapphires of this large size’ (Lot 568, estimate

piece have been certified to be D-Colour and

$ 3 – 5 million / CHF 2,980,000 – 4,960,000).

Internally Flawless, placing this jewel in a league befitting the man known by many as the ‘King of Diamonds’ (Lot 569, estimate $ 4,800,000 – 5,800,000 / CHF 4,770,000 – 5,760,000).

Two sapphires from Kashmir – the most sought-after origin for these gemstones - will also feature as highlights of the sale: the first is a superb 12.43-carat cushion-shaped stone mounted as a ring (Lot 561, estimate $

Also thought to be by Harry Winston, this

1,200,000 – 1,800,000 / CHF 1,200,000 –

extremely attractive diamond brooch is made

1,790,000); the second is a stunning sapphire

up of four pear-shaped diamonds

and diamond brooch from an Austrian noble

surrounding a marquise-shaped stone – all of

family, created in the late 19th century.

these are D Colour (Lot 564, estimate $

According to the Swiss Gemmological

1,800,000 – 2,800,000 / CHF 1,790,000 –

Institute (SSEF), the sapphires, weighing

2,780,000).

46.86, 10.09 and 9.93 carats respectively, are

25.77 carats, this superb diamond ring is by Italian jeweller Pederzani. The stone is of highly coveted D Colour and, according to the GIA, its clarity has the potential to be

“perfectly cut as high-domed cabochons”, and “assembling a set of three natural sapphires from Kashmir of this size and quality can be considered very rare and exceptional.” (Lot 533, estimate $500,000 – 800,000 / CHF 500,000 – 800,000).

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Set with a step-cut diamond weighing

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

Magnificent diamond necklace, Harry Winston Estimate 4,770,000 — 5,760,000 CHF Of fringe design, suspending nine pear-shaped diamonds weighing from 2.04 to 14.93 carats, supported by rows of circular-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, signed Winston, numbered, length approximately 405mm. Page 152

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PROPERTY OF A DISTINGUISHED FAMILY Important diamond pendant Estimate 2,480,000 — 3,480,000 CHF Page 153

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

PROPERTY OF A DISTINGUISHED FAMILY Very fine diamond ring, Pederzani Estimate 2,980,000 — 3,970,000 CHF Page 154

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

PROPERTY OF A DISTINGUISHED FAMILY Attractive diamond brooch Estimate 1,790,000 — 2,780,000 CHF Page 155

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

Attractive sapphire and diamond ring Estimate 1,200,000 — 1,790,000 CHF Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 12.43 carats, within a double frame of marquise-shaped diamonds, size 51. Page 156

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

Emerald and diamond ring, Oscar Heyman & Brothers Estimate 600,000 — 800,000 CHF Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 45.94 carats, between triangular-cut diamond shoulders weighing 1.54 and 1.52 carats respectively, further highlighted by baguette diamonds, size 53, with maker's mark for Oscar Heyman & Brothers, numbered. Page 157

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

FROM A NOBLE FAMILY Ruby and diamond ring Estimate 1,100,000 — 2,090,000 CHF Set with an oval ruby weighing 8.16 carats, between tapered baguette diamond shoulders, size 491/2, signed Cartier Page 158

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

Also from a noble family is this beautiful

most coveted of all geographic locations for

ruby and diamond ring, signed Cartier.

emeralds (Lot 545, estimate $ 300,000 –

According to the SSEF and Gübelin, the

500,000 / CHF 300,000 – 500,000).

8.16-carat gemstone was found in Burma, widely agreed to produce the finest rubies, and is of ‘pigeon blood’ colour – the most highly prized hue (Lot 529, estimate $ 1,100,000 – 2,100,000 / CHF 1,100,000 – 2,090,000). American jewellers Oscar Heyman & Brothers are renowned for their jewels featuring coloured gemstones, and this emerald and diamond ring is no exception. It is set with a sumptuous step-cut Colombian emerald weighing 45.94 carats (Lot 425, estimate $600,000 – 800,000 / CHF 600,000 – 800,000). BREATHTAKING SIGNED JEWELS Among the most desirable jewels on today’s auction market are signed jewels from prestigious jewellery houses, in particular those which embody the spirit of the age in which they were made. This extraordinary ruby and diamond brooch was created by Cartier around 1940 and features Burmese rubies - the central gemstone weighing 7.34 carats (Lot 514, estimate $400,000 – 600,000 / CHF 400,000 – 600,000). A must-see piece for jewellery connoisseurs. The spectacular gem set and diamond sautoir below was made by Bulgari around 1970. Supporting a pendant set with a carved emerald weighing a phenomenal 127.35 carats, it epitomizes the richly decorative statement pieces for which the Italian jeweller is so well known. The central gemstone was discovered in Colombia, the

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SPLENDID JEWELS FROM AN ARISTOCRATIC COLLECTION Rare and important ruby and diamond brooch, Cartier, circa 1940 Estimate 400,000 — 600,000 CHF Page 160

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

FROM AN IMPORTANT PRIVATE COLLECTION Spectacular gem set and diamond sautoir, Bulgari, 1969-1970 Estimate 300,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 500,000 CHF Page 161

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FROM AN IMPORTANT PRIVATE COLLECTION Spectacular gem set and diamond sautoir, Bulgari, 1969-1970 Estimate 300,000 — 500,000 CHF Page 163

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | EXQUISITE TREASURES

FROM AN IMPORTANT PRIVATE COLLECTION Exceptional sapphire ring, Cartier Estimate 2,980,000 — 4,960,000 CHF Page 164

BOUCHERON Nature Triomphante Page 165

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NATURE TRIOMPHANTE

BOUCHERON Nature Triomphante B Y C AT H E R I N E VA RO U C H A

Boucheron, 160 years of free spirit

Bank and Hollywood - from Françoise Sagan

It would take a lifetime to unravel all the

to Joan Crawford - and Indian princesses.

reasons why Boucheron - 160 years after

The archives do not only gleam with the

opening its first boutique in 1858 under the

glamour of these extraordinary orders, they

arcades of the Palais Royal - remains

also reflect the spirit that presides over the

synonymous with Place Vendôme, where it

Maison’s creations.

became the first jeweler on the square in 1893. Louis XIV’s urban purpose has been transformed into the epicenter of Parisian creation by the opening of Boucheron’s boutique, workshops and design studio at 26 Place Vendôme. This historical address rewards the intuition of a man, Frédéric Boucheron, who in one generation built the Maison’s style, reputation and expertise.

Far from fettering the jewel and its wearers within rigid constraints and ideologies, Boucheron liberates jewelry and women, from the “Point d’Interrogation” necklace created in 1879, which offered the first asymmetrical design without a clasp, to the Cape de Lumière in 2016, homage to the drape- ry of couture and a reference to the fabrics of Frédéric Boucheron’s

Frédéric Boucheron was a designer

childhood. At 26 Place Vendôme, where the

whose instinct was guided by a taste for

workshops still operate, the Maison

innovation and entrepreneurial vision. Just

continues to gamble on movement, waves,

as one senses the sparkle of a jewel

suppleness, to reinterpret ora and fauna;

even before it is shaped, he imagined French jewelry before it came into existence.  This bold spirit emerges in the Maison’s

and to shake up conventions by opening up the lexicon of jewelry to new material associations.

precious order books, where we nd the most

Boucheron has always believed that

illustrious names of Europe’s elite from

jewelry is made to be worn. This concern is

yesterday and today. Romanovs, Pahlavis

reflected in the Maison’s style and in the

and Windsors rub shoulders with the

elusive sensuality to which it gives rise, in a

aristocracy of the New World - the Goulds

timeless blend of emotion and freedom.

and Vanderbilts - the courtesans of the

Because freedom is for every age.

demi-monde - La Païva and the Countess di Castiglione - the high society of the Left

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«Nature Triomphante» : ephemeral beauty

more real by capturing its mutability. The

made eternal

fragile beauty of fresh flowers defies the

To honor 160 years of creation and innovation, Boucheron has pursued a dream to push the limits of High Jewelry by granting eternal life to the beauty and vitality of nature. This vision comes to light in the collection “Nature Triomphante”, in which cutting-edge scientific techniques combined with the ancestral expertise of our workshops usher High Jewelry into a bold new era of creativity.

passage of time, as their petals become even rarer ornaments than the extraordinary precious stones of padparadscha sapphire, spessartite garnet, indigolite tourmaline and jonquil diamond. Selected for the brilliance and subtlety of their palette, the natural flowers are scanned one by one, capturing their volumes at the nest detail. Conjointly, the petals are stabilized without pigments or chemicals, then mounted on the titanium

The “Nature Triomphante” collection is a

flower volume with immense care to protect

tribute, first to the beauty of nature, whose

their texture, lightness, velvety sheen and

diversity, ideal aesthetic and symbolic

fragility. Achieving this feat has taken years of

abundance offer endless sources of

research and an extraordinary creative

inspiration to Boucheron. Next, it is a tribute

venture highlighting the boldness, expertise

to the innovative and free spirit of the Maison,

and excellence of the Maison’s craftsmen and

which has never ceased transcending the

women, by liberating the hand and mind

conventions of jewelry to craft unique pieces

from material contingencies.With this unique

of stunning audacity.

and exclusive technique of capturing living matter, Boucheron offers a modern, sensual

I- Eternal flowers

and eternal expression of femininity, a

With its nine unique models of flower-rings,

hyperrealist portrait of nature that is organic,

Boucheron transforms the ephemeral into the

sophisticated and full of fantasy for liberated

immortal, by blending the intuition and free

women.

spirit that was held dear by the Maison’s founder and is still a vibrant part of its creative universe today.

Pivoine Avis Varner accords its petals of pink-orange tones with a 4.16-carat Padparadscha sapphire. Its titanium pistils are

Maison Boucheron is reaffirming Nature as

studded with black spinels, while the

one of its privileged themes. In collaboration

underside of its leaves are adorned with

with an artist-petallist, its workshops have

yellow and violet sapphires.

redrawn the boundaries of high jewelry by expanding its vocabulary to include the poetry of anemone, pansy, hydrangea and peony.

Pivoine La Belle is ornamented with a rare 7.29-carat Violet sapphire, a direct echo of the ring’s ombré petals. Its pistils feature a powdered effect, while its pave-set diamonds

Through a closely guarded process,

resonate with the texture and colors of the

Boucheron has dared to make nature even

petals.

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Flower ring with natural petals set with a 4,16 ct oval padparadscha sapphire, paved with black spinels, purple and orange sapphires, on titanium & pink gold. Page 168

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NATURE TRIOMPHANTE

Natural petals color chart. Page 169

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NATURE TRIOMPHANTE

Selection of a 3.99 ct cushioned rubellite for the heart of an Eternal Flower ring. Page 170

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NATURE TRIOMPHANTE

Flower ring with natural petals set with a 7.29 ct oval purple sapphire from Madagascar, paved with blue and pink sapphires, on titanium. Page 171

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NATURE TRIOMPHANTE

Flower ring with natural petals set with a jonquille diamonds bouquet, on titanium. Page 172

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NATURE TRIOMPHANTE

Pivoine Coral Charm, with its ring body and

II- Between heritage and innovation

pistils in red gold, is ornamented with an 8 . 1 8 - c a ra t i m p e r i a l t o p a z . Th e p i n k iridescence of the rare stone recalls the changing light reflecting from the ring’s soft petals.

By blending creativity, a free spirit and innovative expertise, the Maison Boucheron elevates its heritage while pushing the limits of the imagination. The Nature Triomphante collection invites us to enter a dreamlike

Rose d’Équateur is ornamented with a

world fusing ultra-realistic plant volumes with

3.35-carat spessartite garnet. The central

a highly personal aesthetic of fantasy.

stone and its pistil counterparts echo the mandarin vibrancy of its pink petals.

Nature has always been one of the preferred themes of the Maison Boucheron.

Rose d’Équateur Rouge gives center stage to a 9.78-carat malaya garnet, which underlines the silky soft skin of its petals. Its stone and pistils in red gold highlight the carnal tint of its owners.

The work carried out on the Eternal Flowers collection inspired Claire Choisne, Creative Director at Boucheron, to combine t ra d i t i o n a l e x p e rt i s e a n d i n n o v at i v e techniques to create original new pieces. This

Rose Sophy’s features a 3.99-carat rubellite

insatiable desire for innovation has now given

with a seamless ring body in red gold. On the

rise to a series of plant-inspired creations

underside, pave-set sapphires in yellow and

more real than nature itself. As the Nature

raspberry red harmonize with the petals.

Triomphante collection unfolds, Boucheron

Anémone Meron Bordeaux, with its eece-like

grants eternal life to the ephemeral.

yellow gold pistils, holds a 5.99-carat violet

THE LIERRE GIVRE NECKLACE was born

sapphire recalling the variegated nuances of

from the surprising marriage of titanium and

its petals. Pave-set yellow and blue sapphires

cacholong, offering a faithful rendering of the

complete the color spectrum on the

winter thaw. An actual branch of ivy replaced

underside.

the traditional sketching step: by scanning its

Hortensia Violet Bleu sees its azure ridges accented by a 8.7-carat indigolite tourmaline. Pave-set diamonds ornament the stone while violet and blue sapphires adorn the underside.

leaves and wrapping the digitized ivy around a model’s neck, the design preserves every detail of the plant form while molding it into the crown shape of the future necklace. The spines of “Lierre Givré” feature micro pave-set diamonds, while a trembler animates each ivy

Hortensia Rosita and its two corollas pair with

leaf with a light movement akin to a soft

delicate mini bouquets of jonquil diamonds

breeze.

that illuminate its iridescent petals.

THE FLEUR DE PLUIE BROOCH, in rock crystal and pave-set diamonds on white gold draws inspiration directly from the skeleton flower, a Japanese bloom that becomes

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Lierre Givré necklace set with cacholong, paved with diamonds, on titanium.

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Phase of application of cacholong on the titanium leaves of the Lierre Givré necklace. Page 175

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Crimping of the 42.96 ct pink tourmaline cushion of the Nuage de Fleurs necklace Page 176

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Pink gold flowers and 42.96 ct cushion tourmaline on the Nuage de Fleurs gouache. Page 177

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Fleur de Pluie brooch in rock crystal and paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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Nuage de Fleurs necklace set with a 42,96 ct cushion pink tourmaline and mother-of-pearl,paved with diamonds, on pink gold. Page 180

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Serpent bracelet set with tanzanites and paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 181

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Serpent ring with a 22,91 cts oval tanzanite, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 182

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Cigale des Neiges necklace set with chalcedony, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 183

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Fougére necklace paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 184

translucent upon contact with water. Using

Boucheron embodies excellence in Jewelry,

scanning technology, the brooch remains

High Jewelry and Watchmaking. The

true to the flower’s actual volumes and

Boucheron style, free and audacious,

reproduces the asymmetrical wave of its

continues to create the classics of tomorrow.

petals. Micro pave-set diamonds on the

There are currently more than 55 Boucheron

virtually microscopic volumes along the pistil

boutiques across the world. Boucheron is

and spines reveals the jeweler’s excellent

part of Kering, a worldwide leader in luxury

craftsmanship.

and lifestyle.

THE NUAGE DE FLEURS NECKLACE, in pink gold lined with mother-of-pearl and

Discover more exceptional pieces at boucheron.com

pave-set diamonds, is set with a 42.96-carat cushion-cut pink tourmaline. Each hydrangea petal was scanned and placed on the necklace so as to form a realistic and airy cloud of owers, giving the necklace a delicate and poe- tic note. The alliance of the ower’s actual curves and wrinkles with ne and fragile mother-of-pearl constitutes an original feat of technical prowess. THE FLEUR GRAPHIQUE NECKLACE, set with a 5.65-carat Colom- bian cushion-cut emerald offers 3 distinct wear options. By combining the realism of natural plant volumes obtained by digital scanning and an Art Deco-inspired graphic style, “Fleur Graphique” trans gures reality to deli- ver a dreamy interpretation of plant life. In white nacre and black lacquer, the chevron pattern was achieved by parting with traditional marquetry techniques, typically produced with a at tint. Using a digital copy made it possible to create several curved forms. These contrasting depths dissolve the line between craftsman and Nature. Created by Frederic Boucheron in 1858, Boucheron is built through four generations of direct descendants. Visionary designer and fir s t j e w e l e r o f t h e P l a c e Ve n d ô m e ,

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Graphique cuff set with malachite and onyx, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 186

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5.65 ct cushion emerald of Colombia of the Fleur Graphique necklace. Page 187

Fleur Graphique necklace set with a 5,65 ct Colombian cushion emerald, malachite, diamonds, onyx and emeralds, with black lacquer, on white white gold. Necklace in the tradition of multiwear. Page 188

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Pompon Art Déco pendant earrings set with with malachite and onyx, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 189

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Pompon Art Déco long necklace set with malachite and onyx, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 190

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Pluie Art Déco necklace set with a 6,02 cts Colombian pear emeralds and onyx, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 191

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26 Vendôme ring set with a 12,03 cts Colombian emerald-cut emerald, paved with diamonds, on platinum. Page 192

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Rivière Art Déco necklace set with chrome tourmalines, malachite and onyx, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 193

Fleur Graphique brooch set with a 5.65 ct Colombian cushion emerald, malachite, diamonds and emeralds, with black lacquer, on white gold. Page 194

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ORTAEA Imperium Collection Page 197

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ORTAEA Imperium Collection BY CHRISTIAN GOUGENHEIN

ORTAEA Launches Imperium Collection Ortaea’s Imperium Collection began in 2016, as an engaging, mythical journey of Nature, Beliefs, Art and Jewels. Founder and designer Mita Vohra was seeking to work on a collaborative creative process and she was introduced to the artist HH Rostislav Romanoff, one of the last surviving members of the

Through his art Rosti was seeking to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the death of Nicholas II and in Autumn 2017 Rosti took a physical journey and returned to Russia on the Trans Siberian Express documenting his trip and the cycle of the birch trees. He immortalized his trip both in art and Mita was able to re-create this in fine jewellery.

Russian Royal family. Sensing a synergy

A timeless symbol of Russian nature and

between his fearless perspectives and

Russian beauty, the birch tree has a very

gracious humility Mita was keen to work with

special place in the country’s culture. ‘Bereza’,

him on a unique jewellery collection which

the birch tree is a symbol of spring, light and

launches in November 2018.

purity. The Russians believe that the birch and

Vohra comments “Rosti is open and expressive. He is a wonderful storyteller, true to his beliefs. We shared an appreciation for the beauty of individuality and the manner in which differences, perspectives and choices make the world more interesting. Meeting a creative who follows thought processes akin to your own and yet expresses in such a unique

birch bark, are considered talismans against evil forces. Ortaea’s designs evoke this message and the birch tree is an emblem of Russian DNA. In symbiosis with nature, Ortaea’s collection reflects the birch trees in different seasons and also at different times of day and each piece is imbued with spirit and symbolism.

way is a treasure.”

With their mutual fascination with nature

As a Russian artist specialising in landscapes, birch trees have long intrigued Rosti, from the colour of the off white silver bark which tears to show the flesh of the tree, to the manner in which they twist, turn and grow in such ‘unnatural’ ways. He adds “These

and form, the design process had an ease and flow. Sketches were drawn from a host of Rosti’s artworks, and from images of birch trees as they peel and renew through the seasons, leading to the detailed textures used in Ortaea jewellery.

trees have always plagued me always finding a

The pieces themselves are works of art,

way back into my field vision they wanted

the artistry in texturing starts with a hand made

somehow to be noticed.”

wax mould. The texturing and form was crafted by artisans before casting and then refined by hand. The birch texturing is closely

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based on the manner in which the layers of

the Greek Mythological Goddess of Earth

the tree peel as they shed their bark.

and Creation.

The collection includes an array of

Mita Vohra, founder and Creative

earrings, rings and an exquisite cuff, each

Director, launched Ortaea Fine Jewellery in

crafted in 18kt gold. Four of the designs are

Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge, London in

produced in two variations of rose gold with

2016. After spending 14 years of her working

white and champagne diamonds and with

life in the fine jewellery business, Mita knew

black gold, white diamonds and ruby. The

this was where she wanted to be. She is a

piece de resistance is a signature piece - a

director of Sarova Hotels Kenya, sits on the

very special one-off cuff bangle crafted from

boards of various property development

black, rose and white gold combined with

companies and is a Trustee of the Sandy

rubies and white and coloured diamonds.

Vohra Foundation.

The inspiration for this piece was Rosti’s final series of paintings for the collection which he filled with shapes and secret messages. It is intricate, symbolic and full of perspectives. An ultimate renewal.

“Jewellery is a boundless form of expression, a means to explore ideas that trigger thought and capture the imagination. A passion for nature evoked by my childhood in Africa, my fascination for history, mythology

About Rostislav Romanov

and astronomy and my curiosity about the

HH Prince Rostislav Rostislavavitch Romanov is a British-Russian painter and descendent of the former ruling Russian

expansive mystery of the Cosmos inspire me to seek knowledge and create for Ortaea.” Mita Vohra.

Imperial dynasty, the House of Romanov.

Our Essence

He studied Fine Art at Falmouth

Our essence is our core belief that

University and specializes in landscapes.

everything is energy championed by the

Inspired by Russian culture and architecture,

power of nature and creation. Ortaea is our

much of Rosti’s art continues to draw from the

journey to delve beyond the surface and seek

influence of the Great Russian master

authenticity in all that we do.

painters Wassily Kadinsky and the landscape painters Levitan and Kuindzhi. Based in Rye, East Sussex where he has his art studio, Rosti divides his time between the UK and Russia.

Each person has their path to tread, innate and created belief systems, challenges and responsibilities. Every time we marvel at an image of the starry expanse of the night’s sky, hear a story of the power of sheer will or

Established in London, the name Ortaea combines the Latin word Ortus meaning origin, new beginnings and rising and Gaea

feel awakened to possibility we are enlivened by something that transcends us, we feel alive and powerful. It is a resonance with this state of being that we seek to evoke.

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About ORTAEA

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HH Prince Rostislav Rostislavavitch Romanov

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HH Prince Rostislav Rostislavavitch Romanov

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HH Prince Rostislav Rostislavavitch Romanov & Founder and Creative Director Mita Vohra

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We tell stories through design and ignite

mirrored in other African countries. Politics

a wonder for the magical and mystical

also plays its part as its does worldwide.

Universe as our creations take you through

There are times it is totally overwhelming and

time, lands, perspectives and the wonders of

one questions what difference they can make,

the natural world. It is this that inspires us and

however ultimately every act and every

leads us to believe in abundance and the

person counts. We believe that every person

boundless nature of creation.

you open a door for or help to empower has a ripple impact in a community and every

Our Values

tree you plant develops roots and brings a

Ethical Sourcing of gems and Social

whole new energy.

Responsibility are a core part of our ethos.

Ortaea will work on projects with the Sandy Vohra Foundation throughout the year,

Ethical Mining Our approach is to understand and acknowledge the challenges and choose carefully who to work with accordingly. Apart from the social concerns of conflict gems, working conditions and basic needs, mining is also extractive and has an undeniable impact on the environment. It is a journey

the local rooting allows us control and real measures over projects. We are currently working on developing a film school on the outskirts of Kibera Slum in partnership with Films Without Borders and Nadia Swarovski. Amongst other projects we will also be working with Build Africa.

from governments, to mining companies, site holders, wholesalers and retailers as well as a process of curbing corruption. We work through reputable site holders and suppliers in their chain in the industry, with a zero tolerance on conflict diamonds.

The Imperium collection will be available exclusively from Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge from November 2018.

Our policy is to sever ties with any supplier who we develop a doubt in or come to know of any contrary dealings with. The industry has come a long way but it is an ever evolving process for us all. Social Responsibility There are places on Earth where a part of you remains deeply connected. For owners Mita and Pravir Vohra, this is Africa. As a trustee of the Sandy Vohra Foundation Mita has gained an insight into the deep social issues haunting Kenya, many of which are

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Founder and Creative Director Mita Vohra

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ULYSSE NARDIN Time flies Page 219

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ULYSSE NARDIN Time flies In sumptuous white or rose gold, with a

The mechanical movement powering all this

brand-new movement that seems to defy

beauty is the brand-new UN-176, entirely

gravity and a startlingly innovative box-domed

developed in-house in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Its

sapphire that took months to research and

flying tourbillon is the “Ulysse Anchor

develop, the Executive Tourbillon “Free

Escapement”, a pioneering technology that

Wheel” soars high above all expectations of

replaces the traditional Swiss lever

what contemporary watchmaking craft and

escapement system and uses Ulysse Nardin’s

technology can achieve.

signature low-friction silicium instead of metal

The modern-sized 44mm dial for the 18ct rose

or synthetic rubies.

gold version is in dark stone, carved from a

The strap is “carbon leather“ in matte alligator,

slab of slate. The 18ct white gold version is

exceptionally soft and silky to the touch.

built on a sleek black honeycomb grid.

Unlike other Ulysse Nardin tourbillons, the

The most astonishing features are the dial’s

Executive Tourbillon “Free Wheel” is not a

tourbillon bridges and the 7-day power

limited edition, but a full-run production

reserve indicator at four o’clock, which are

launch. Visually stunning, it is a true

shaped like boomerangs and look like they

technological marvel, destined for those who

are miraculously floating in the air. So too do

t a ke d e l i g h t i n t h e l e a d i n g - e d g e o f

the other ‘skeletonized’ components, the hour

engineering and aesthetics.

and minute indicators and the gorgeous gear trains. The sapphire glass box housing these ‘flying’ elements is another standout achievement. The structure’s complexity and finish— especially the polishing of the box angles— were extremely difficult to achieve, requiring lengthy and painstaking experimentation. The caseback too, is in sapphire, except there’s nothing to see inside, as, in a complete reversal of watchmaking convention, all the exquisite components are visible on the dial side.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS References : 1760-176 / 1766-176    Movement : Calibre UN-176 Manufacture Movement with UN Certificate, Silicium technology Manual winding Power reserve : Around 7 days Functions : H / M, Ulysse Nardin Anchor tourbillon, Power Reserve indicator at 4 o’clock. Dial : Flying components on a grid or slate dial Diameter : 44mm Water Resistance : 30m Crystal : Ultra box-domed sapphire glass   Caseback : Sapphire crystal   Strap : ‘Carbon Leather’ matte alligator

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Photo courtesy of Filip Mroz | Unsplash

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SHOWCASE

SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A & C H R I S T I A N G O U G E N H E I N

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SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

DM WORKSHOP

ANNA HU

FORMS

SABBADINI

CHATILA

OTTO JAKOB

KAMYEN

MESSIKA

FAIDEE

ILIAS LALAOUNIS GIAMPIERO BODINO

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

ADRESS BOOK BRANDS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

ANNA HU www.anna-hu.com BOUCHERON www.boucheron.com DAVIDOR www.davidor.com DINA KAMAL www.dinakamal.com GUCCI www.gucci.com ORTAEA www.ortaea.com SOTHEBYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S www.sothebys.com SUCIYAN www.suciyan.com ULYSSE NARDIN www.ulysse-nardin.com

For the brands showcased in page 224, visit our Instagram account on www.instagram.com/jewellery_historian

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