Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY
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FACES OF DESIGN
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Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier welcomes you with his
KONG
“Editor’s Letter” and invites you to discover
The most valuable earrings ever to appear at
PRECIOUS AUCTION | HONG
creativity.
auction, the “Apollo & Artemis Diamonds” lead
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ENTICE UNFOLDS MASTERPIECES
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Preeta Agarwal, with her first article at the
For spring 2017, the famous Parisian maison
Jewellery Historian, invites us to discover an
introduces us a new collection, Ondine.
MATHON | PARIS
exceptional collection.
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PRECIOUS AUCTION | NEW YORK
PRECIOUS AUCTION
An exceptional sale of magnificent jewels,
The “Pink Star” sells for a record price and is
including the Legendary Stotesbury emerald and
renamed “The CTF Pink”
of unique jewellery with exceptionnal provenance.
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ARTISTAR JEWELS 2017
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Together we discover the winners of the fourth
The Metropolitan Museum of Art present a
edition of Artistar 2017 and a new generation of
unique exhibition Rei Kawakubo/Comme des
artists.
Garçons : Art of the In-Between.
REI KAWAKUBO | MET MUSEUM
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NE W BOO K
a v aila b le at ww w. jewe lle ry hist o rian. co m
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FACETS OF MANKIND
PICCHIOTTI: 50 YEARS IN STYLE
An exclusive preview of the first book made by the We discover the creative storied past of Italy’s
Jewellery Historian.
preeminent high-jeweler, Picchiotti, founded half a century ago.
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OCÉANOS BY CARRERA Y CARRERA
JADEITE
Together with discover the exceptional latest collection of the international Spanish jewellery firm,
Eva Kountouraki introduces the amazing jadeite, a
one of the most prestigious in the world.
gift from nature.
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DINNY HALL
GEA: THE ORIGIN OF CREATION
Her distinct minimal designs have made a name in the fashion world and her attention to detail has
From an admiration for the earth as the center of
made her pieces, must-have luxury items.
creation, GEA was born, a collection created by world famous Magerit Joyas.
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Fabergé, the world’s most iconic artist, introduces us
MAHARAJAS
FROM THE GREAT MUGHALS TO THE
FABERGÉ | #SAYYESINCOLOR a colorful new engagement collection.
Together we discover the exceptional exhibition of the unique Al Thani Collection in Paris.
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Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com
FOUNDER | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) ASSOCIATE EDITOR | Christina Rodopoulou CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE | Panayiotis Simopoulos GEMOLOGY EDITOR | Eva Kountouraki, G.G (GIA)
COVER | Chaletgirl / Shutterstock. com
PARTNERS | Martin Huynh, Catherine Varoucha, COLUMNISTS | Lara van Schaik, Preeta Agarwal CREATIVE | Jewellery Historian PRODUCTION | Jewellery Historian PHOTO AGENCIES | Shutterstock, iStock, Unsplash GRAPHIC DESIGN | Jewellery Historian ADVERTISING | Jewellery Historian WEB | Jewellery Historian E-MAIL | Jewellery Historian
Made in the European Union Printed copies available exclusively by Print of Demand JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2017
All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.
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DAVID MORRIS: A COLORFUL HISTORY
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For over five decades, royalty and international
French is an amazing language and together we
collectors compose the clientele of the world famous
discover exceptional books in the language of
British jewellery brand David Morris.
Voltaire.
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BULGARI: TWIST YOUR TIME
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A symbol of eternal regeneration, the snake,
With this fashion editorial we invite you to discover
constantly sheds its skin and takes on another, like the
the beauty of movement and freedom.
MILLEFEUILLES
IN THE FLOW OF THE RIVER
unique SERPENTI.
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FASHION: NOIR & BLANC
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An exceptional men fashion shooting that shows us
Spring is the rebirth of nature. This fashion editorial
that everything in life is not always black or white.
invites you to discover this new natural dress full of
FLORAL BLOCK
flowers and colors.
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JEWELS WE LOVE
ADDRESS BOOK
We handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose,
Each issue features unique artists and here you can
enabling you to add a sophisticated and elegant
find how to learn more about them.
touch to the most important moments of your life.
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Photo courtesy of LUCAS SAMALTANOS-FERRIER © LUCAS SAMALTANOS-FERRIER
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Jewellery Historian
| EDITOR’S LETTER
This new issue of the Jewellery Historian marks an
wearing jewelry always remained the same, they enabled us
important moment for us all at the Jewellery Historian. It
all to express ourselves. With a unique versatility through
marks a new beginning, new collaborations, new
ages, jewellery become not only an expression of
partnerships, a new visual identity, new people in our team.
self-definition and of refinement, but also a driving force for
After a quite long period we decided to give to the entire
many fashion and cultural changes. Jewellery allow us to
magazine an important relooking. This need was born from
capture personal and treasured moments, to remember
our and desire to look like nobody else.
special milestones, to celebrate important moments of our
With a passion for knowledge and
lives, to never forget a moment of
c r i t i c a l i n q u i r y, w h i l e
our journey with a timeless
searching new and innovative ways of delivering information that can resonate long after publication, combined to a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, since the launch of the Jewellery Historian with my great team we are constantly searching new ways to showcase the most exceptional
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FACES OF DE S IGN
and exquisite designers from all over the world. Recently we decided to offer to
keepsake we can wear. Jewelry is a heirloom that remind us where we came from, of people who might not be with us any longer. Jewellery is our link to our own past. In each of our issues, we invite our precious readers to discover this versatility and the intellectual playfulness most designers
by Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
our readers new experiences, such
G.G (GIA)
exhibit. With every issue we invite our readers, in every continent of our world, to explore the stories of
as the possibility to order a limited edition print of our
passionate people and the motivations behind their
magazine. With beautiful typography, each issue is a design
inspirational lifestyles, and the creative universe of the
object, which celebrates the pure pleasure of reading and
exceptional artists we handpick to be featured in our
the calming luxury of being offline. For this reason it was
magazine.
important for us, at this point, to rethink the entire design,
There was nothing easy to make all those changes and I
since we wanted all amazing creations made by our
would like to personally each one that participated into this
precious and prestigious partners to be wrapped up in
change for their efforts and accomplishments, because
beautiful words, illustration and photography, and collected
without their support and volunteer work this magazine
into a beautifully designed print artifact. We focus on
would not exist. Creativity is the act of turning new and
aesthetics and to the creativity of the designers we choose
imaginative ideas into reality, the ability to transcend
to showcase, by letting their creations to speak for
traditional ideas, rules, patterns, relationships, or the like,
themselves, rather that surrounding them with distractions
and to create meaningful new ideas. With this issue, the
and other imagery.
Jewellery Historian leaves the past behind, and let instinct
The Jewellery Historian has a strong focus on design and
and creativity be our guide.
craftsmanship, thereby promoting artists who aren't
The Jewellery Historian is a collective collaboration, a
necessarily part of the latest trend, but whose body of work
platform that allows all artists to share with readers around
shows an affinity for quality and taste over a longer period
the globe their creativity, their passion, their ideas and their
of time. The main goal of our publication is to be a
imagination. Our main mission since our launch is to
celebration of innovation and creativity, a publication that
educate, inspire and to promote known and unknow
will inspire our readers around the world, a publication
jewellery & timepieces designers, the expertise and vision
about the talented artists we choose to feature. We
of famous international maisons and talented young
showcase artists whose work is exceptional and of the
designers with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery
highest quality. Each issue invites you to explore known and
& watch design as a form of creative expression.
unknown artists through their exceptional creations. Their
Our entire philosophy can be summed up in three verbs:
creations speak and we invite you to try to “listen” to them.
create, connect, inspire. Our new design in three words:
They will tell you secrets that are almost invisible.
Balance, Challenge, Purity. After all, luxury is not an industry,
Jewels have always been part of our human culture, and
but a language, a universal one.
despite changes in history of mankind, the purpose of
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Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE © KGK ENTICE
Design & Creativity
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KGK ENTICE UNFOLDS MASTERPIECES AT
BASELWORLD B Y P R E E TA A G A R W A L
For the 12th year in a row, Entice (Hong Kong), the fine
About Entice Jewellery:
jewellery brand by the era old KGK group, participated in the Baselworld 2017 with an exclusive booth.
Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it
with a contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical
ENTICE long known for their light weight and fabric like
yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look.
flexibility in jewellery, previewed a brand new assortment of
'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of
its masterworks from its latest collections. With yellow
millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success
diamonds being the highpoint of this floral theme collection,
with boutiques in Hong Kong & China and with an
the range displays some spectacular high definition
impression that India is now modern by design, KGK
necklaces crafted with stunning yellow diamonds and
launched its first boutique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. Entice
earrings forged with beautiful fusion of pear and oval shapes.
today has 5 standalone boutiques in countries including
The majestic range also includes some extraordinary designs
Hong Kong and India (Bengaluru, Jaipur, Mumbai and New
of long floral asymmetrical diamond necklaces studded with
Delhi).
18.95 carat pear shaped emerald; and an exclusive array of
Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an
chandelier earrings embossed in the mystique of fancy
internationally aesthetic look, lending a unique artistic blend
shaped diamonds. Several assortments of cocktail ring
to their pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK, Entice
engulfed with the gemstones like emeralds, blue sapphires
aims to create an unparalleled position of credible leadership
and Rose cut diamonds were also eminently featured.
by providing unmatched customer delight and exceeding
Coming straight from the heart of its Creative Director, Mrs.
customer expectations at every opportunity with its precious
Manju Kothari, “The pieces once again are the sole creation
gems and jewellery.
of our expert team of International craftsmen at Entice’s state-of-the-art - manufacturing unit in Hong Kong and an
About Parent Group KGK:
upshot of their hard work. Each piece is engrossed with modern fancy shaped diamonds and old ones like rose cuts
The KGK group, established in 1905 by Kothari family of
along with emeralds and blue sapphires making it a luxury in
Jaipur, is a global corporation with fully integrated
disguise for the jewellery lovers. The uniqueness of Entice
operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry, with presence
Jewellery lies in its unmatched elegance and chic flair, which
across 17 countries. A pioneer in the world of precious
is synonymous with brand’s vow to create the best.”
stones, KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and
Present at the Baselworld 2017, Mr. Sanjay Kothari, Vice
distributing diamonds, colored stones and jewellery for
Chairman - KGK Group of Companies said, “It’s a
decades. The status of De Beers Sightholder, Alrosa Alliance
tremendous honor to unveil our greatest works of art in
and Rio Tinto Select Diamantaire speaks volumes about the
Baselworld, the biggest jewellery fiesta in the world. We have
credibility and efficiency of our diamond operations ensuring
been a part of this grand fete over a decade now yet it feels
nothing but the finest diamonds and at the most reasonable
an aura of freshness each time we showcase the finest and
prices. The strength of KGK is vast, resulting in unmatchable
lavish adornments out of the Entice’s canister of excellence.”
benefits to the end consumer.
The Jewellery displayed is now available at Entice Hong Kong exclusively and would come to India later this year.
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| Design & Creativity
Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE © KGK ENTICE
Jewellery Historian
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| Design & Creativity
Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE © KGK ENTICE
Jewellery Historian
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| Design & Creativity
Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE © KGK ENTICE
Jewellery Historian
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| Design & Creativity
Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE © KGK ENTICE
Jewellery Historian
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| Design & Creativity
Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE © KGK ENTICE
Jewellery Historian
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| Design & Creativity
Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE © KGK ENTICE
Jewellery Historian
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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
Precious
Auction
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The “Pink Star” sells for HK$553 Million / US$71.2 million to Hong Kong jeweller Chow Tai Fook and is renamed “The CTF Pink” On April 4th, 2017 in Hong Kong, Sotheby’s set a new world
Sotheby's in auctioning The Pink Star and congratulates its
auction record for any diamond or jewel when the Pink Star, a
new owner on purchasing one of Earth's most magnificent
59.60-carat oval mixed-cut Fancy Vivid Pink Internally
natural treasures. We are grateful to Sotheby's for their
Flawless diamond, sold for HK$553 million / US$71.2 million.
stewardship as we continue our tradition of providing
The Pink Star was acquired by renowned jeweller Chow Tai
extraordinary gems to the world's most distinguished
Fook, with the winning telephone bid placed by Dr. Henry
clientele.”
Cheng Kar-Shun, Chairman of the company. The Pink Star has been renamed the CTF Pink in memory of the late Dr. Cheng
The Pink Star (renamed the CTF Pink), a 59.60-carat oval
Yu-Tung, father of the current chairman and founder of Chow
mixed-cut pink diamond, is the largest Internally Flawless
Tai Fook, and commemorates the esteemed brand’s 88th
Fancy Vivid Pink diamond that the Gemological Institute of
anniversary.
America (GIA) has ever graded. It has received the highest colour and clarity grades from the GIA for pink diamonds and
"It is fitting that the owner of the most prestigious jeweller in
has been found to be part of the rare subgroup comprising
Greater China should today break the record for the most
less than 2% of all gem diamonds - known as Type IIa: stones
valuable item ever sold in Asia as well as the most valuable
in this group are chemically the purest of all diamond crystals
diamond ever sold at auction - now appropriately named the
and often have extraordinary optical transparency. Mined by
CTF Pink - said Sotheby's President and CEO Tad Smith,
De Beers in Africa in 1999, the 132.5- carat rough diamond
adding, "And Sotheby's has been honoured and thrilled to
was meticulously cut and polished over a period of two years
serve this very discerning client for many years."
and transformed into this stunning gemstone.
David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Division, added: “I am delighted that this magnificently beautiful diamond has been rightfully crowned the most valuable gemstone ever sold at auction. The price has more than doubled the record for a fancy vivid pink diamond that we set just last year in Geneva.” The CTF Pink joins a number of outstanding stones in the collection of Chow Tai Fook including the Aurora Green, a 5.03-carat vivid green diamond acquired in 2016 for HK$130 million / US$16.8 million, an auction record for a green diamond, and the Cullinan Heritage, an exceptionally rare 507-carat rough diamond acquired for HK$275 million / US$35.3 million in 2010 that was cut and polished over three years to create “A Heritage in Bloom”, a unique masterpiece of diamond jewellery. Mellen Inc., Sotheby's partner in The Pink Star, said, “Mellen is privileged to have had the opportunity to partner with
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New Generation
The winners of the fourth edition of
Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR © ARTISTAR
Artistar Jewels 2017
B Y C H R I S T I N A R O D O P O U LO U
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Jewellery Historian
| New Generation
On February 24th at Giureconsulti Palace in Milan the
potronage of Comune di Milano. At the event there was also
winners of the fourth edition of Artistar Jewels have been
the young Italian stylist Erasmo Fiorentino who dressed the
announced. Artistar Jewels is the contest aimed at the
model Camilla Poggi with one of his dress, adorned with a
spread of the contemporary jewels culture which ended on
jewel created exclusively for the event by De Liguoro brand.
February 26th. The Artistar Jewels 2017’s winners are the
The dress inspired by the goddess Minerva descended to
Russian designer Evgeniia Balashova, the Italian artist
earth to separate the good from the bad, the perfect
Emanuele Leonardi and the Icelandic designer Anna Maria
combination of sinuous shapes like the parure made by
Pitt.
maison De Liguoro.
Emanuele Leonardi, one of the most voted from the general
The jury who selected and awarded the best artists from a
public and winner of the previous edition of Artistar, in this
technique, sperimentation, originality and research poin of
edition he persuaded the expert jury too with his neckpiece
views was represented by Elisabetta Barracchia – Editor of
made of bronze, wood and leather, Valutazione del Rischio,
Vogue Accessory and Creative Director of the Fashion
that shows the man’s will of catching the desired object
Department of Vanity Fair – Maristella Campi – fashion
which can, sometimes, “break” if all the risks haven’t been
journalist – Bianca Cappello – historian and critic of jewelry –
well evaluated. With ArtisticaLmente, Leonardi, art mentor
Gianni De Liguoro – founder and stylis of the De Liguoro
born and raised in Rome, has been continuing for about 2
brand and also protagonist of a special exhibition in a special
year the concept of the narrative jewel-sculpture. Anna Maria
area – Guido Solari – founder and owner of the Scuola orafa
Pitt has been awarded for her Backbone piece made of silver
Ambrosiana of Milan via Savona, 20 – Liza Urla – one of the
and inspired by the spinal bones of the wild reindeers. The
top jewelry blogger and founder of GEMOLOGUE..
designer, born in Iceland, moved in the United Kingdom
Gillo Dorfles for San Lorenzo, GianCarlo Montebello and
where she graduated with the highest score at the New
Philip Sajet’s creations have been hosted for the whole
Bucks University. She creates jewels using the technique of
duration of the exhibition.
the cold connection creating geomitric pieces inspired by
All the works have been published on the Artistar Jeweks
nature. Awarded the Russian designer Evgeniia Balashova
2017 volume. The introductive texts has been written by
too. Graduated in Scotland at the School of art in Glasgow,
Eugenia Gadaleta, contemporary jewelry expert and
she presented for Artistar the creation Buffer Bangle, which is
Marketing & Communication Manager of Artistar and Selene
a combination of flowing organic shapes and a strict
Oliva – Fashion and jewel’s freelance journalist. Edited by the
geometric frame. This juxtaposition of opposites shows
publishing house Logo Fausto Lupetti and available
organized chaos – typical environment of an office space.
nationally and internationally: sold in all the Italian libraries, in
The organic elements of the piece are created from
all the major European capitals and shipped to more than
computer keyboard hinges which were recycled and cast in
5000 experts of the sector.
Sterling Silver. Evgeniia Balashova, selected by Guido Solari,
A small selection of the works will be hosted by prestigious
also won the free participation to the Professional
galleries: Spazio Espositivo Adiacenze of Amerigo Mariotti
Goldsmithing course, offered by the Scuola Orafa
and Daniela Tozzi in Bologna 1-15 June, Creativity Oggetti of
Ambrosiana, Via Savona, 20.
Susanna Maffini in Torino 11-31 May and the Concept Store
A special mention went to the Chrysaora Alba piece, to the
Tiberius in Vienna in September.
fashion and textile designer born in the Czech Republic and
All of the creations are also purchasable until next week on
based in Berlin, Alena Willroth, designer and creator of
the e-commerce artistarjewels.com
handcrafted jewels made of soft filigree in polyethylene. Her
“We are very happy of the event’s succes – said Enzo
works are also rip resistant and created with a technique that
Carbone, founder of Artistar – the positive feedback from the
make it possible to create very light ornaments, with high
designers who came to Milan for this even, from abroad too,
visual impact and rarely reproducible.
and the enthusiasm of the guests and visitors make us really
Finally, the Egyptian artist Reem Jano has been selected by
proud. We are already thinking about the next edition,
the founder and jury members Giovanni De Liguoro to
determined to work hard to give the audience a great event,
collaborate in the personalization of one piece of the maison
always of high level”.
that will go into production.
Artistar Jewels is the event founded in 2012 by the designer
142 are the international designer from more than 30
Enzo Carbone and it’s now a landmark for the contemporary
countries who participated with over 350 creations in this
jewelry sector.
fourth edition, most of them never seen before. For the first
famous artists and as a springboard for the emerging
time the event took place in the prestigious Giureconsulti
designers. The participants shows their works, unique pieces
Palace in Milan during the February Fashion Week with the
or small series, selected for the high artistic value, for the
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It serves as an international showcase for
Jewellery Historian
| New Generation
technical sperimentation and the stylistic research. Highly
communicate your creativity and sell your creations. Who visits the website can admire the exhibited jewels, learn the project philosophy behind them and get in touch with the artists. This reality also periodically spreads news about contests, free workshops, events and commercial partnerships. All the participants to the contest are included in the famous volume published by Logo Fausto Lupetti Editore; a book distributed both in Italy and in the European capitals. Artistar Jewels is a large-scale projects directed aimed at showing the pluralism of the contemporary jewel in all it endless variety. Artistar Jewels enhance the contemporary culture of the jewel, able to convey, in each edition, an heritage of beauty and knowledge that leaves the mark.
evocative body ornaments, very different for the materials and the techniques but linked by the fil rouge of the narration of a story, always present in each creation. Artistar Jewels is a project born with the aim of spreading the culture of contemporary jewelry and designed to anticipate the market trends, one of the first italian realities which has exploited all the potentiality of the web to implement the commercialization of contemporary jewelry. PIECES SELECTED FOR THE TOURING EXHIBITION: Algares di Alba Gallizia_MORGANA, Alina Simion_Dark shades of silence, Ana Hagopian_Feathers (Plumas), Arianna Celentano _SECULAR TIME, ArteFatto_Punti di vista, Aurum by GudbjĂśrg_TUTTU, B_Dodi design_NEFERTITI NECKLACE, Chevalley Cedric_ups8 bracelet, Fior Morris_Gridlock Shadow Choker , IngranArt by Simona Della Bella_Contrasto, IngranArt by Simona Della Bella_REWIND, Jenny Lawlor_Galaxy, Ji Young
Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR Š ARTISTAR
di Loto_Contact, Harriet
Kim_Lull of Breeze, Manuale J e w e l r y _ V E N U S TA NECKALCE, M e t a l To r k s _ M a a y a n Yablochnik_Gold-Silver star necklace, midzo_untitled bracelet, Orietta #artistarjewels2017 ARTISTAR JEWELS PROFILE: Artistar Jewels is the annual event promoting the contemporary jewel. It serves as an international showcase for famous artists and as a springboard for the emerging designers. Artistar Jewels was founded in 2012 in Milan by the designer Enzo Carbone. By the years the event developed and now it has more than 100 designers participating to each edition. Artistar group, made of artists, architects, journalists and communication professionals, aims at being a benchmark in the contemporary jewelry scenario by promoting designers and artists both in Italy and in the rest of the world through several initiatives. The shop on line www.artistarjewels.com is a virtual window by which easily and simultaneously
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| New Generation
Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR © ARTISTAR
Jewellery Historian
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| New Generation
Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR © ARTISTAR
Jewellery Historian
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| New Generation
Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR © ARTISTAR
Jewellery Historian
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EXCEPTIONNAL AUCTION
SOTHEBY’S MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS G E N E VA , 1 6 M a y 2 0 1 7
‘THE APOLLO & ARTEMIS DIAMONDS’ THE MOST VALUABLE EARRINGS EVER TO APPEAR AT AUCTION
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| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
Jewellery Historian
‘THE APOLLO BLUE’
‘THE ARTEMIS PINK’
Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond weighing 14.54 carats Internally Flawless, Type IIb
Fancy Intense Pink Diamond weighing 16.00 carats VVS2 clarity, Type IIa
Estimate $ 38 – 50 million (CHF 38.1 – 50.2 million)
Estimate: $ 12.5 – 18 million (CHF 12.5 – 18.1 million)
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Jewellery Historian
| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION
Sotheby’s spring sale of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels at Mandarin Oriental,
Speaking ahead of the sale, David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, said, “The Apollo and Artemis Diamonds’ will be the stars of our May sale in Geneva – by far the most important pair of earrings ever offered at auction.”
Geneva will be led by the ‘Apollo and Artemis Diamonds’. Individually, these captivating diamonds – one Fancy Vivid Blue, one Fancy Intense Pink – are truly exceptional stones and when considered as a pair, they enter a class of their own: the most important earrings ever to appear at auction. Offered separately as individual lots, ‘The Apollo Blue’ will be presented with an estimate of $38 – 50 million (CHF 38.1 – 50.2m) and ‘The Artemis Pink’ is estimated between $12.5 – 18 million (CHF 12.5 – 18.1m). Speaking ahead of the sale, David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, said, “’The Apollo and Artemis Diamonds’ will be the stars of our May sale in Geneva – by far the most important pair of earrings ever offered at auction. These exquisite coloured diamonds are enormously rare and each is a wonderful stone in its own right. Together, as a pair of earrings, they are breathtaking. We have named them after Apollo and Artemis, a twin brother and sister of great power and beauty who were among the most widely venerated of the Ancient Greek deities. These are diamonds of great distinction, with extraordinary presence, and we are honoured that Sotheby’s has been chosen to bring them to auction in May.” THE APOLLO BLUE Graded Fancy Vivid Blue by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and weighing an impressive 14.54 carats, the ‘Apollo Blue’ is the largest Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Blue diamond ever to be offered at auction. It has been cut and polished into a beautiful unmodified pear-shape which flatters its exquisite and truly outstanding colour. The GIA has also determined that the ‘Apollo Blue’ is a Type IIb diamond – a group which contains less than one half of one per cent of all diamonds. The stone has had an auspicious start to its world tour, having already received many accolades on its exhibition in Hong Kong. In recent times, the only mine to produce blue diamonds with any regularity is the Cullinan mine in South Africa. When in full production, less than 0.1% of diamonds sourced showed any evidence of blue colour, according to the GIA. An infinitesimally small percentage of those is graded Fancy Vivid Blue. The ‘Apollo Blue’ will be offered as a single lot on 16 May with an estimate of $38 – 50 million (CHF38.1 – 50.2m). THE ARTEMIS PINK The ‘Artemis Pink’ stands as an exquisite and rare treasure in its own right, displaying an elegant and delicate Fancy Intense Pink hue. Weighing 16 carats, the stone has been carefully cut into a captivating pear shape, matching the Apollo Blue, which perfectly showcases the stone’s colour and clarity. The GIA has declared the ‘Artemis Pink’ to be a ‘Type IIa’ diamond, describing this category as ‘the most chemically pure type’ of diamonds, which ‘often have exceptional optical transparency’. The occurrence of pink diamonds remains exceedingly rare: according to the GIA, of all diamonds submitted to their specialists each year, ‘no more than 3% are classified as coloured diamonds; less than 5% of those coloured diamonds are predominantly pink’. Thus, a Fancy Intense Pink stone of such rich colour and impressive size can only be described as phenomenally rare.
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Jewellery Historian
| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION
The ‘Artemis Pink’ will be offered as a single lot on 16 May with an estimate of $12.5 – 18
Offered separately as individual lots, ‘The Apollo Blue’ will be presented with an estimate of $38 – 50 million (CHF 38.1 – 50.2m) and ‘The Artemis Pink’ is estimated between $12.5 – 18 million (CHF 12.5 – 18.1m).
million (CHF12.5 – 18.1m). THE MYTH OF APOLLO AND ARTEMIS In Greek mythology, Leto (Latona in Latin), daughter of the Titans Coeus and Phoebe, had a liaison with Zeus and became pregnant with twins. When Hera, wife of Zeus, discovered this, she forbade Leto from giving birth on terra firma, the mainland, any island or any place under the sun. Leto eventually found the barren floating island of Asterios, later named Delos, which was neither mainland nor a real island, and gave birth there, promising the island wealth from the worshippers who would flock to the obscure birthplace of the splendid god who was to come. Leto gave birth to Artemis, the elder twin, without difficulty, but she laboured for nine nights and nine days with Apollo, according to Homer. In Greek and Roman mythology, diamonds were believed to be the tears of the gods. Artemis, Diana for the Romans, became one of the most venerated of the Ancient Greek deities. She was the goddess of the hunt, wild animals, wilderness, childbirth, virginity and protector of young girls. Also referred to as the goddess of the moon, she was often depicted as a huntress carrying a bow and arrow, and deer and cypress were sacred to her. Apollo is one of the most important of the Olympian deities in classical Greek and Roman mythology. The ideal of the kouros, he has been recognised as the god of music, truth and prophecy, healing, the sun and light, and poetry. In Hellenistic times, as Apollo Helios, he became identified among Greeks with Helios, Titan god of the sun, and his sister Artemis similarly equated with Selene, Titan goddess of the moon. SOTHEBY’S Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744. Sotheby’s became the first international auction house when it expanded from London to New York (1955), the first to conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India (1992) and France (2001), and the first international fine art auction house in China (2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in 10 different salesrooms, including New York, London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s BidNow program allows visitors to view all auctions live online and place bids from anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers collectors the resources of Sotheby’s Financial Services, the world’s only full-service art financing company, as well as the collection advisory services of its subsidiary, Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents private sale opportunities in more than 70 categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two retail businesses, Sotheby’s Diamonds and Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global network of 80 offices in 40 countries and is the oldest company listed on the New York Stock Exchange (BID). Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels 16 May 2017 MANDARIN ORIENTAL, GENEVA
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Mathon THE NEW COLLECTION ONDINE IS BORN
For spring season 2017, the new collection Ondine is born, attributing to the timeless pieces Les Intemporelles by MATHON PARIS. Inspired by the natural form of water and the mythology story, the collection Ondine is endowed with a spirit of simpleness and modernism. The name “Ondine” derives from the word "wave". In the western mythology, Ondine were the nymphs living in the water, representing the beauty and the living force of the Nature. The collection is available in white gold, yellow gold and rose gold, and diamond pavé as well. A serie of gold rings is decorated with lacquer of colors from the spring - orange, red, blue and green. Discreet, elegant, the Ondine rings can be worn as single or combined together, as stack rings, to create a unique look.
Photo courtesy of MATHON PARIS © MATHON PARIS
For more information. visit www.mathon-paris.com
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Photo courtesy of MATHON PARIS © MATHON PARIS
EXCEPTIONNAL AUCTION
SOTHEBY’S MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS NEW YORK, 25 May 2017
Magnificent Jewels including the
Legendary Stotesbury Emerald
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| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
Jewellery Historian
THE MAGNIFICENT AND LEGENDARY STOTESBURY EMERALD Platinum, Emerald and Diamond Ring, Harry Winston Set with a hexagon-shaped emerald weighing approximately 34.40 carats, framed by pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 6.00 carats, size 5½, signed Winston.
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Estimate 800,000 — 1,200,000 USD
Jewellery Historian
| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION
Sotheby’s annual spring auction of Magnificent Jewels in New York
The Hope Diamond
will be held on 25 April 2017. The sale features a wonderful array of historic designs of Louis Comfort Tiffany, JAR and Suzanne Belperron,
Only two years later, Pierre Cartier paid another visit to Mrs. McLean,
alongside jewels with exceptional provenance.
this time with an even more irresistible gemstone – the Hope Diamond. After a mounting was approved for the 45.52-carat Deep
The sale is distinguished further by signed and iconic jewels from
Blue diamond, Cartier and the McLeans agreed that the first payment
renowned design houses including Harry Winston, Cartier, Tiffany &
for the Hope Diamond would include $40,000 and the emerald and
Co. and Bulgari, as well as exceptional diamonds of every color.
pearl pendant which housed the Star of the East. The title of the Hope Diamond was officially transferred in 1912 after a bitter court battle
Distinguished Provenance
between Cartier and the McLeans, and the hexagon-shaped emerald now belonged to the design house.
A highlight of the spring season is the Magnificent and Legendary Stotesbury Emerald (estimate 800.000/1.2 million USD) whose
Mr. and Mrs. Edward T. Stotesbury
exceptional size, extraordinary shape and rich hue alone distinguishes it from the rest of its class. However, enclosed in this hexagon-shaped,
Eva Stotesbury was born in Chicago, her father a prominent lawyer
Colombian emerald weighting approximately 34.40 carats is an
who practiced in the same circuits as Abraham Lincoln. Her 1912
extensive history spanning the 20th century and including: three
wedding to Edward T. Stotesbury, known as J.P. Morgan’s right-hand
renowned American jewelry collectors -Evelyn Walsh McLean, Eva
man in Philadelphia, was covered by The New York Times; President
Stotesbury and May Bonfils Stanton- two renowned design houses, a
Taft was in attendance and toasted the newlyweds. Mr. and Mrs.
bitter court battle and, last but not least, The Hope Diamond. The
Stotesbury split their time between Whitemarsh Hall, their mansion in
whereabouts of this legendary emerald have been unknown since
Philadelphia and El Mirasol, their Palm Beach property. They were
1971, when it last appeared at auction at Sotheby’s. The stone’s history
known for their lavish parties as well as their widespread philanthropic
was rediscovered through careful research and scholarship.
efforts.
The Story Behind the Magnificent and Legendary Stotesbury
The Stotesbury Gems
Emerald Mrs. Stotesbury had an eye for jewellery, and when the newly married With its exceptional size, extraordinary shape and rich, vibrant hue,
couple travelled to London, word of her impressive gem collection
the Stotesbury Emerald would be an outstanding stone if considered
quickly spread. During the 1912 trip, The New York Times reported,
only for its superb gem quality. Enclosed in this unique stone,
“The Philadelphia banker’s wife loves jewels for their own sake and
however, is a history that includes two celebrated design houses and
can discuss the good and bad points of a gem with an expert’s
three incomparable women who shared an impeccable eye for
knowledge. All of her stones are of the finest water, and a number of
renowned jewels and gemstones. Each leading lady changed it meet
them, gathered at the coast of much time and trouble, are of
her specific taste, in concert with the most famed jewelers of all time.
incomparable beauty.” An avid entertainer, Mrs. Stotesbury was
The emerald’s fabled path illustrates the legend of a gem that
known for complaining about the headaches induced by her emerald
coincided with the heyday of jewellry collecting in the United States.
and diamond tiara by Cartier.
Click ahead to discover more than 100 years of the Stotesbury Emerald’s renowned history, as it awaits its next chapter.
The Stotesbury Emeralds
The McLean Years
Like many women did during the World Wars, Mrs. Stotesbury looked to Pierre Cartier to re-work her emerald and diamond tiara and add
The Stotesbury Emerald’s journey begins in 1908 in Washington, D.C.
more gems to create an entire suite. Comprising a tiara, necklace and
American mining heiress and socialite Evalyn Walsh McLean was a
pendant-earrings, the hexagon-shaped stone was the centerpiece of
client of Pierre Cartier, who helped Mrs. McLean amass one of the
the necklace. Mrs. Stotesbury was so fond of her emeralds that she
world’s most impressive collections of gemstones. In 1908 Cartier was
wore them in 1926 for her portrait completed by British artist Douglas
tasked with creating a bespoke jewel to showcase the Star of the East
Chandor. Parke-Bernet Galleries sold Mrs. Stotesbury’s much admired
diamond, a 94.80-carat pear-shaped diamond recently purchased by
pearls in an auction following her death in 1946.
Mrs. McLean. It was decided that the Star of the East was to be worn as a pendant, and Mrs. McLean wore it, on a chain below a hexagonal
The Stotesbury Emerald and Harry Winston
emerald of 34 carats and a pearl of 32 grains. Laurence Krashes states in his book Harry Winton: The Ultimate Jeweler that the Stotesbury Emerald and the suite it belonged to were
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| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
Jewellery Historian
FORMERLY FROM THE COLLECTION OF QUEEN NARRIMAN OF EGYPT 18 Karat Gold, Citrine and Diamond Necklace and Bracelet, Sterlé, Paris The necklace and bracelet of stylized wreath form, the bracelet enhanced by a gold link tassel, set with numerous pear-shaped citrines and one heart-shaped citrine, accented by round and single-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 11.00 carats, necklace length 15 inches, unsigned, numbered 2444, with French assay marks, bracelet length 6¼ inches, signed Sterlé, Paris, numbered 2445, with French assay marks; circa 1950. Estimate 175,000 — 225,000
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Jewellery Historian
| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION
sold to Harry Winston in 1943. In a practice that made him famous
Also highlighting the sale is a very Rare Fancy Vivid Green Diamond
during the jet-set years, Harry Winston refashioned the Stotesbury
ring (estimate 1/1.5 million USD). Aside from the color red, green is by
Emerald suite into a variety of more contemporary creations. The
far the scarcest body color found in fancy colored diamonds. Only a
Stotesbury emerald itself was mounted as a ring and sold to May
handful of natural green diamonds have been auctioned in the past
Bonfils Stanton.
30 years, this Fancy Vivid Green diamond, weighting 1.64 carats, which is uncommonly large for a green diamond, presents a unique
The Stotesbury Emerald at Auction
opportunity for collectors to acquire an exceptional gem.
Although it was not a part of the legendary single owner sale of May
The sale will offer several blue diamonds of various hues including an
Bonfils Stanton’s collection, the Stotesbury Emerald appeared in a
Exquisite Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring (estimate 700.000/1 million
1971 Parke-Bernet sale. Sold in its present mounting by Harry
USD), an Important Fancy Gray-Blue Diamond Ring (estimate
Winston, the ring was part of a various owner sale, but noted as being
750.000/1 million USD) and a Fancy Intense Blue Diamond and
from the Estate of May Bonfils Stanton. The Stotesbury Emerald has
Diamond Ring (estimate 200.000/300.000 USD). A Fancy Deep Yellow
remained with the same owners since the 1971 auction.
Diamond and Diamond Ring (estimate 150.000/200.000 USD) is also on offer.
Additionally, the sale will offer an Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond Brooch by Cartier (estimate 200.000/300.000 USD) formerly in the collection of Mrs. John E. Rovensky. Mrs. Rovensky, formerly Mrs.
SOTHEBY’S
Morton F. Plant, participated in one of the most iconic jewels transactions of all time when her first husband traded in his corner lot
Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art
on Fifth Avenue for two strands of natural pearls from Cartier in 1917.
since 1744. Sotheby’s became the first international auction house
Stationed on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street, the lot
when it expanded from London to New York (1955), the first to
remains the New York home for the iconic brand.
conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India (1992) and France (2001), and the first international fine art auction house in China (2012). Today,
A Citrine and Diamond Necklace and Bracelet by Sterlé (estimate
Sotheby’s presents auctions in 10 different salesrooms, including New
175.000/225.000 USD) formerly from the collection of Queen Narriman
York, London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s BidNow program
of Egypt and three jewels by Cartier and Boucheron from the
allows visitors to view all auctions live online and place bids from
Collection of Frederica Vanderbilt Webb, an American heiress, are
anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers collectors the resources of
also amongst the many pieces in the sale with histories as glittering as
Sotheby’s Financial Services, the world’s only full-service art financing
the jewels themselves.
company, as well as the collection advisory services of its subsidiary, Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents private sale opportunities in
Illustrious Jewels by Louis Comfort Tiffany
more than 70 categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two retail businesses, Sotheby’s
A strong selection of Art Nouveau jewels is led by an important
Diamonds and Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global network of 80
private collection of jewels by Louis Comfort Tiffany, comprising 10
offices in 40 countries and is the oldest company listed on the New
pieces that are representative of designer’s unique and signature
York Stock Exchange (BID).
work. Tiffany strove to elevate jewelry to fine art. His use of naturalistic forms, intricate details and vibrantly colored gemstones allowed each
EXHIBITION TIMES | NEW YORK
piece to hold its own as a complete artistic statement. The vivid colors of the gemstones are delicately balanced allowing them to catch and
FRI, 21 APR 17 | 01:00 PM - 05:00 PM EDT
transform light in a way that is informed by his mastery of the stained
SAT, 22 APR 17 | 10:00 AM - 05:00 PM EDT
glass medium.
SUN, 23 APR 17 | 01:00 PM - 05:00 PM EDT MON, 24 APR 17 | 10:00 AM - 05:00 PM EDT
Magnificent Diamonds
TUE, 25 APR 17 | 10:00 AM - 12:00 PM EDT
The April sale offers an extensive selection of colorless and colored diamonds of every hue, led by an Extraordinary Pair of Diamond Earrings (estimate 4.5/5.5 million USD), set with two square emerald-cut diamonds both over 20 carats, D colors, Internally Flawless, Type IIa with excellent Polish and Symmetry.
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| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
Jewellery Historian
Rare Platinum, Fancy Vivid Green Diamond and Diamond Ring Centering a cut-cornered square mixed-cut Fancy Vivid Green diamond weighing 1.64 carats, flanked by two cut-cornered triangle-shaped diamonds weighing approximately .65 carat, size 6¼. Estimate 1,000,000 — 1,500,000
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ART
The METROPOLITAN MUSEUM
Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons
Art of the In-Between
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Body Meets Dress–Dress Meets Body, spring/summer 1997; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Jewellery Historian
The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute
| ART
Exhibition Overview
spring 2017 exhibition, Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between, on view from May 4
The exhibition will feature approximately 150
through September 4, will examine Kawakubo’s
examples of Kawakubo’s womenswear designs for
fascination with interstitiality, or the space between
Comme des Garçons, dating from the early 1980s to her
boundaries. This in-between space is revealed in
most recent collection. Objects will be organized into
Kawakubo’s work as an aesthetic sensibility, establishing
eight dominant and recurring aesthetic expressions of
an unsettling zone of oscillating visual ambiguity that
interstitiality in Kawakubo’s work: Fashion/Anti-Fashion,
challenges conventional notions of beauty, good taste,
Design/Not Design, Model/Multiple, Then/Now,
and fashionability. Not a traditional retrospective, this
High/Low, Self/Other, Object/Subject, and Clothes/Not
thematic exhibition will be The Costume Institute’s first
Clothes. Kawakubo breaks down the imaginary walls
monographic show on a living designer since the Yves
between these dualisms, exposing their artificiality and
Saint Laurent exhibition in 1983.
arbitrariness. Her fashions demonstrate that interstices are places of meaningful connection and coexistence as
“In blurring the art/fashion divide, Kawakubo asks us
well as revolutionary innovation and transformation,
to think differently about clothing,” said Thomas P.
providing Kawakubo with endless possibilities to rethink
Campbell, Director of The Met. “Curator Andrew Bolton
the female body and feminine identity.
will explore work that often looks like sculpture in an exhibition that will challenge our ideas about fashion’s
Exhibition Credits
role in contemporary culture.” The exhibition will be curated by Andrew Bolton, In celebration of the opening, The Met's Costume
Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute, who will
Institute Benefit, also known as The Met Gala, will take
collaborate on the exhibition design with Rei Kawakubo.
place on Monday, May 1, 2017. The evening’s co-chairs
Lighting for the exhibition will be created by Thierry
will be Tom Brady, Gisele Bundchen, Katy Perry, Pharrell
Dreyfus @ Eyesight Group. Heads and wigs will be
Williams, and Anna Wintour.
Rei Kawakubo and
created and styled by Julien d’Ys. The design for the
Ambassador Caroline Kennedy will serve as Honorary
2017 Costume Institute Benefit will be created by Nathan
Chairs. The event is The Costume Institute’s main source
Crowley with Raul Avila, who has produced the Benefit
of annual funding for exhibitions, publications,
décor since 2007.
acquisitions, and capital improvements. Special thanks to Apple, Condé Nast, Farfetch, H&M, “Rei Kawakubo is one of the most important and
Maison Valentino, and Warner Bros. for their support of
influential designers of the past 40 years,” said Andrew
the exhibition and benefit.
Bolton, Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute. “By inviting us to rethink fashion as a site of constant
Related Content
creation, recreation, and hybridity, she has defined the aesthetics of our time.”
A publication, authored by Andrew Bolton and designed by Fabien Baron, will accompany the
Rei Kawakubo said, “I have always pursued a new way
exhibition. It will be published by The Metropolitan
of thinking about design...by denying established values,
Museum of Art and distributed by Yale University Press.
conventions, and what is generally accepted as the norm. And the modes of expression that have always been most important to me are fusion...imbalance... unfinished... elimination...and absence of intent.”
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Jewellery Historian
| ART
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Body Meets Dress–Dress Meets Body, spring/summer 1997; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Jewellery Historian
| ART
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Blue Witch, spring/summer 2016; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Jewellery Historian
| ART
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Blue Witch, spring/summer 2016; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Jewellery Historian
| ART
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969); Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Jewellery Historian
| ART
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Blood and Roses, spring/summer 2015; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA © CARRERA Y CARRERA
The art of creativity
OCÉANOS
A NEW COLLECTION BY CARRERA Y CARRERA B Y C H R I S T I N A R O D O P O U LO U
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Jewellery Historian
| The art of creativity
The ocean waters contain countless mysteries yet to be discovered. Concealed below the surface is a secret world that mankind has striven tirelessly to uncover and master – the deep sea has always held an element of attraction for the human race. Carrera y Carrera, the most international Spanish fine jewelry firm, gives itself over to the fascination awakened by the sea and its wonders. Allowing itself to succumb to the ocean’s charms, the company has developed the new Océanos collection. The pieces that make up this collection are very much in line with the major fashion houses that have also surrendered to the charms aroused by the sea and the hidden universe it contains. Carrera y Carrera, flaunting its unlimited imagination and sources of inspiration, takes the oceans as a creative concept to develop its new collection and once again gives a master lesson in creating mini-sculptures of extreme detail and thoroughness. Creatures from the deep have been crafted in white and yellow gold with precious stones such as amethysts, blue and yellow sapphires, and black pearls. These last, of the highest quality and exquisite color, are embraced by the tentacles of an octopus, a protagonist of the jewelry firm’s latest creations. Seahorses, symbol of undying love, as well as sea stars, complete the zoomorphic diversity of these pieces. A festival of color, brilliance, and movement unique to the rolling of the tides that form the 7 oceans. The collection is comprised of rings, earrings, and necklaces that conceptualize the majesty of the sea according to Carrera y Carrera. Luxury, power, and beauty brought directly from the ocean depths. About Carrera y Carrera Carrera y Carrera is an international Spanish jewelry firm considered to be one of the most prestigious in the world. Present in over 40 countries, it has subsidiaries in the United States, Japan, and Russia, and boutiques in Madrid, Barcelona, Tokyo, Moscow, Dubai, Bangkok, Macau, and Kuala Lumpur, among others. This iconic brand is characterized by a unique style and meticulous designs where the combination of matte-gloss gold and work in volumes and sculpture transform these pieces into unique jewels where gold and precious stones come to life.
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| The art of creativity
Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA © CARRERA Y CARRERA
Jewellery Historian
OCÉANOS MINI RING IN YELLOW GOLD, AMETHYST, OLIVINE AND DIAMONDS
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| The art of creativity
Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA © CARRERA Y CARRERA
Jewellery Historian
PULPO MEDIUM EARRINGS UN YELLOW GOLD, BLACK PEARLS AND DIAMONDS
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| The art of creativity
Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA © CARRERA Y CARRERA
Jewellery Historian
PULPO MAXI RING IN YELLOW AND WHITE GOLD, WHITE PEARLS, BLACK PEARL, BLUE SAPPHIRES, AMETHYSTS AND DIAMONDS
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| The art of creativity
Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA © CARRERA Y CARRERA
Jewellery Historian
CORAL RING IN YELLOW AND ROSE GOLD, CRYSTAL ROCK, GARNETS, BLUE SAPPHIRES, ORANGE SAPPHIRES AND DIAMONDS
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| The art of creativity
Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA © CARRERA Y CARRERA
Jewellery Historian
CORAL RING IN YELLOW AND ROSE GOLD, CRYSTAL ROCK, GARNETS, BLUE SAPPHIRES, ORANGE SAPPHIRES AND DIAMONDS
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| The art of creativity
Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA © CARRERA Y CARRERA
Jewellery Historian
PULPO MAXI EARRINGS IN YELLOW GOLD, BLACK PEARLS AND DIAMONDS
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0
9
7 2
0 B Y C AT H E R I N E VA R O U C H A
Ever since the dawn of human race, jewelry managed to be a constant presence and a driving force of many fashion and cultural changes we experienced through millennia of mankind history. Discover with us, an exclusive preview of the upcoming new book of the Jewellery Historian. The facets of mankind invite us to explore the unique creativity of mankind through the centuries. Art is the absolute manifestation of human creativity and the author invites us to discover the amazing links between the art of jewelry and many other forms of art. A book with a strong focus on design and craftsmanship, a celebration of innovation and creativity, that will help us to explore the stories of passionate people and the motivations behind their inspirational lifestyles.
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Jewellery Historian
|
0
9
The founder and editor-in-chief of the Jewellery Historian
gained by reading non-fiction books, that
allow us to
signs the first ever book to be soon released by the
learn real, factual information. Books can also give us
Jewellery Historian. The book focuses on the way jewelry
knowledge through the experience of reading. Many
managed to be a constant presence and a driving force of
people feel that when they read a book, especially works
many fashion and cultural changes we experienced
of fiction, they interact with "another world."
through millennia of mankind history. This book will also allow to the Jewellery Historian to The goal of this book is purely educational. It is a book
continue to offer a free digital version to readers
that we all at the Jewellery Historian want to be a
worldwide. The Jewellery Historian is a project created by
celebration of innovation and creativity, a publication
a team of volunteers with no financial support of any
about the unknown talented artists of the past and about
brand or from any other source and this book will allow us
the people that created exceptional jewellery and unique
to keep service readers around the globe. With more than
timepieces.
900.000 readers in more than 80 countries we feel that this project must continue. One of our main missions is to educate, inspire and to promote jewellery & timepieces
Jewels have always been part of our human culture, but
designers, the expertise and vision of famous
despite changes in history of mankind the purpose of
international maisons and talented designers with the
wearing jewelry always remained the same, they enabled
goal of raising the awareness of jewellery & watch design
wearer to express himself non-verbally, to showcase
as a form of creative expression.
wealth, rank, political and religious affiliation or affections toward someone.
The Jewellery Historian has a strong focus on design and craftsmanship, thereby promoting artists who aren't
This versatility through ages enabled jewelry to become
necessarily part of the latest trend, but whose body of
timeless and a target for constant development and
work shows an affinity for quality and taste over a longer
refinement. This is why we could say that ever since the
period of time. We showcase artists whose work is
dawn of human race, jewelry managed to be a constant
exceptional and of the highest quality. With each issue
presence and a driving force of many fashion and cultural
we invite our readers to explore the stories of passionate
changes we experienced trough millennia. With this first
people and the motivations behind their inspirational
book we wanted to show all this. We felt that by doing
lifestyles and we hope to succeed the same with this very
this we would invite readers to discover an amazing
first book.
universe. It is our invitation to all readers worldwide to explore the stories of passionate people and the
We felt that we had to wrap all those amazing creations of
motivations behind their inspirational lifestyles.
known and unknown artists of the past, all those exceptional works of the most talented jewellery
This book is also an invitation to visit and discover
designers, artists and decorative or religious art designers
exceptional jewellery and art collections in museums
and collect them into a beautifully designed print artifact.
around the globe. Jewelry is present in decorative art, in fashion, in painting, in almost everything.
At the Jewellery Historian, we believe that luxury is not only an industry, but mainly a language. Art is the
We hope that the readers of this book will also visit a local
absolute manifestation of human creativity and we invite
bookstore and buy a book about jewellery. Authors
you to discover the amazing links between the art of
around the world write exceptional books and we must all
jewelry and many other forms of art.
support their work. It is a way to guarantee that all this knowledge will be transmitted to future generations. Books transmit knowledge in at least two ways. First,
This first book will be exclusively available on the website
there is the literal or factual knowledge which can be
of the Jewellery Historian as a soft cover book.
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THE
MINIMAL spirit OF
DINNY HALL B Y C H R I S T I N A R O D O P O U LO U
Her distinct minimalistic designs have made a name in the fashion world and her attention to detail has made the pieces must-have luxury items for the modern woman.
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A modern British jewellery brand with 30 year’s heritage, Dinny Hall is the creative force behind her eponymous line. Dinny came to prominence when her entire Central Saint Martin's College of Art and Design graduation collection was bought by luxury department store Liberty, London. A year later, in 1985, the brand was founded and was an instant success with its experimental pieces made from unique natural materials such as leather and wood. The subsequent years have seen Dinny Hall’s jewellery continue to adapt with trends while maintaining the same quality and flair that brought her success originally. She says of her work: "At first I played with scale, exoticism and fashion statement but as time went on the actual craft began to interest me more. I began paring down the forms to be simple but as perfect as I could make them. Jewellery is a very personal thing and should not take over the wearer but be part of them". From sketch to store, Dinny is personally involved in every one of her pieces. It’s this hands on approach that has made Dinny Hall a recognisable jewellery name around the world, synonymous with British style and quality. From concept to creation, Dinny celebrates the craft of jewellery-making. Her distinct designs have made the brand a name in the fashion world and her attention to detail has made the pieces must have luxury items for the modern woman. Her eclectic range of inspirations – from 20th-century furniture to the onion domes of a Russian orthodox church – inform her timeless, feminine and beautiful designs, which have garnered a loyal following worldwide. These clients appreciate not only the high quality of Dinny’s work, but also that it is eminently wearable and can be easily adapted to suit today’s highly varied day-to-night lifestyle Created by Dinny and her team in the Notting Hill studio in London, Dinny is famous for her imaginative use of luxury Sterling Silver, 22k Gold Vermeil, 14k, and 18ct gold and many coloured gemstones. Dinny Hall jewelry is skillfully crafted to maximize comfort and style. Dinny and her team oversee the entire production process of the pieces, from hand-drawing the designs to creating wax models used to make the jewellery masters, to hand selecting every gemstone. The pieces are created using the tools and techniques that craftsmen have used for centuries along with some of the latest computer technology to make original masters that are then formed into finished pieces by master goldsmiths trained by Dinny herself. From sketch to store, Dinny is personally involved in every one of her pieces. It's this hands on approach that has made Dinny Hall a recognisable jewellery name around the world, synonymous with British style and quality. Dinny uses only genuine gemstones carefully chosen from responsible sources who we trust together with the highest quality solid sterling silver, 14k and 18k gold. Dinny believes in crafting and engineering those metals and in this respect is a genuine artisan. Every aspect of a piece is taken into consideration, with particular attention paid to how the jewellery will feel and sit on the wearer.
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The art of creativity
FA B E R G É ENGAGEMENT COLLECTION
#SAYYESINCOLOUR B Y C AT H E R I N E VA R O U C H A
Fabergé is the world’s most iconic artist jewellery, inspired by its storied past and the current moment, to create eternally original pieces that, when worn, convey breath-taking individuality. Fabergé jewellery creations are made for a discerning clientele seeking the unexpected. In Fabergé’s new engagement ring collections, emeralds, rubies and sapphires -the legendary gemstone trinity - take the place of diamonds and create a colourful renaissance of this age-old commitment to enduring love.
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| The art of creativity
FABERGÉ is the world’s most iconic artist jewellery, inspired by its storied past and the current moment, to create eternally original pieces that, when worn, convey breath-taking individuality. Fabergé jewellery creations are made for a discerning clientele seeking the unexpected. In painting with the world’s finest coloured gemstones, Fabergé explores “the art of colour”, making pieces to be collected as future heirlooms. Through enduring originality the finest workmanship and artistry, Fabergé jewels act as timeless reflections of universal themes of nature, rebirth and love. Fabergé designs for the contemporary woman whose style is a timeless expression of her individual taste. In Fabergé’s new engagement ring collections, emeralds, rubies and sapphires -the legendary gemstone trinity - take the place of diamonds and create a colourful renaissance of this age-old commitment to enduring love. Fabergé’s #sayyesincolour film depicts the emotional response sparked by three different engagement proposals, each corresponding with one of the three gemstones. The film explores the spirituality and intuition of emeralds, the passion and devotion of rubies, and the sincerity and faithfulness of sapphires, allowing each couple to reflect the unique emotional significance of their journey and their bond. Fabergé’s illustrious heritage is saluted by the incorporation into each ring of the venerated gold-fluting technique, a quintessential Faberg’e effect providing a highly distinctive and contemporary finish. In keeping with its fondness for delight, surprise and discovery, Fabergé’s engagement and wedding rings conceal, on the inside of each band, an additional gem of matching colour which remains in direct contact with the wearer, ensuring an unbroken bond between partners. Every couple is unique and no two engagement stories are alike. Similarly, no two coloured gemstones are alike, with each gem safeguarding its own story. Share your engagement story and #sayyesincolour.
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50 years in style
The storied past of Italy's preeminent high-jeweller, Picchiotti, unfolds nearly half a century ago in Valenza, an ancient Italian village known for jewellery-making, when founder Giuseppe Picchiotti opened the doors of his atelier. Today he’s known the world over as the premier jeweller of Italy. The Valenza atelier produces masterful miniature works of art with élan for its appreciative fans. Picchiotti’s sophisticated collection is created entirely in-house, assuring excellence in the execution and complete quality control, while Picchiotti carves out time to scour the globe in search of rare stones befitting his elite brand.
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B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R
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The storied past of Italy’s preeminent high-jeweler,
industry through several awards, including the Basel
Picchiotti, unfolds nearly half a century ago in Valenza, an
Award, Couture Design Award, and the Platinum Guild
ancient Italian village known for jewelry-making, when
Best of Show Design Award.
founder Giuseppe Picchiotti opened the doors of his
A certificate of authenticity accompanies every master
atelier. From an early age, Picchiotti had a clear vision for
craftsman’s work from the Picchiotti atelier. Every piece in
creating Fine Jewelry, and today he is known the world
the exclusive collection is stamped with the “Picchiotti”
over as the premier jeweler of Italy.
signature mark, the purchaser’s assurance that the piece is
The legendary family enterprise is precision-run by
a genuine Picchiotti design. Each creation is as unique as
Picchiotti and seven family members, a charismatic,
its wearer, reflecting Picchiotti’s legendary quality, beauty
multi-generational group that creates one-of-a-kind
and style.
pieces and oversees all aspects of the business. The Picchiotti story is a special one – uniting thrilling, unique
An Artist’s Style is His Signature
Fine Jewelry designs with their extraordinary creators: the family Picchiotti.
Giuseppe Picchiotti’s romance with diamonds and
The Picchiotti atelier in Valenza produces masterful
precious stones has been guiding him for five decades to
miniature works of art with élan for its legions of
pursue the artistic expression that distinguishes Picchiotti
appreciative fans. Picchiotti’s sophisticated collection is
from other Fine Jewelry brands. With his passionate
created entirely in- house, assuring excellence of
commitment to exclusivity, the resulting collections are of
execution and complete quality control from start to
exquisite beauty and artistry, true masterpieces that will
finish.
be talked about and treasured for years to come.
Picchiotti painstakingly oversees every aspect of the
The Picchiotti Collections are conceived with a focus
creative process, but he also carves out time to scour the
on colored gemstones, and a quintessentially Italian,
globe in search of rare stones befitting his elite brand.
dynamic and innovative design and sensibility expressing
These forays uncover magnificent gems that often inspire
unsurpassed creativity and exquisite craftsmanship. The
new signature pieces.
shapes are soft, sinuous, and very feminine.
Picchiotti’s designs are traditionally inspired by classical
Every new Picchiotti collection is unveiled at
lines and are characterized by the elegance of their style,
Baselworld, the result of 12 months of artistic creation and
transcending fickle trends. Customers describe them as
skilled craftsmanship. Immediately after Baselworld, the
“timeless heirlooms” to be passed on to a favorite
design team prepares a preliminary selection of new ideas
daughter or niece, for generations to come.
for the next collection. Each design is then evaluated by
Additionally, with an open mind toward the
the Picchiotti family members, who share a common
challenging economic environment and the evolution in
fundamental belief: The perfect mix in an ideal collection
consumers’ needs and tastes, Picchiotti has gradually
is the balance between the harmonious shapes found in
introduced new lines characterized by innovative design
nature and the clean lines found in architecture. These are
and inspired by modern and vibrant fashion, while
indeed Picchiotti’s true sources of inspiration.
maintaining an enduring style and a distinctive pattern.
At Picchiotti few simple guidelines must also be
These pieces have been conceived to be worn as
followed. Refined design reflecting Picchiotti’s creativity.
“everyday” accessories, yet they reflect Picchiotti’s
Opulence and richness befitting a masterpiece. Simple,
cherished standards of quality and craftsmanship, with all
clear shapes for the classical line. Innovation for the more
the attributes of Fine Jewelry.
fashionable items
The artful fusion of classical styling interpreted for
In addition to the classically elegant pieces that are
modern collectors has landed Picchiotti’s work in the
fundamental to all Picchiotti collections, there are also
grateful hands of the world’s most prestigious retailers.
new pieces inspired by youthful and vibrant fashions,
The company’s dedication to excellence in the art of
innovative designs that will meet the taste of a young,
designing and manufacturing has been recognized by the
sophisticated audience, one that appreciates the fine
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UNIQUE ART NECKLACE
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2017 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS
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2017 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS
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2017 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS
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2017 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS
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| Haute Joaillerie 50th anniversary ring and 2017 collection debut at
craftsmanship that goes into every Picchiotti creation.
Baselworld A family affair
To celebrate its 50th Anniversary in 2017, Picchiotti has created L’Anfiteatro, an 8.05-carat ruby ring inspired by a
Founded in Valenza, Italy, in 1967, the brand name
classic amphitheatre and designed by founder and CEO,
Picchiotti defines one-of-a-kind Fine Jewelry. Founder
Giuseppe Picchiotti. The ring debut at Baselworld 2017,
Giuseppe Picchiotti, over the course of five decades, has
the World Watch and Jewellery Show in Basel, Switzerland
nurtured and fashioned the brand which has earned an
(March 23-30). Picchiotti also unveil at Baselworld 2017 its
international reputation for craftsmanship, quality and
2017 Collection featuring Picchiotti Signature Pieces and
artistry.
the company’s new and innovative Xpandable Collection of rings and bracelets.
Coming from a long line of distinguished pharmacists, Giuseppe had to break with tradition to follow his dream.
“For our 50th Anniversary I wanted to create a jewel
Against his family’s wishes, at the age of 13, Giuseppe
that captured the essence of Picchiotti style and
began working as a goldsmith. He apprenticed in a small
craftsmanship,” said Mr. Picchiotti, “while keeping the
workshop in Valenza where world-renowned artists were
spirit of innovative creativity very much alive and moving
perfecting their craft. He moved on to study at Valenza’s
forward. I believe L’Anfiteatro is all that and more, a
Istituto Professionale Orafo, obtaining the knowledge and
remarkable ruby, and a setting deeply infused with the
training necessary to start his own atelier.
essence of Picchiotti style.”
Giuseppe opened his atelier with his sister, Annamaria, who was, and still is, responsible for managing all
About L’Anfiteatro
administrative areas of the business. This solid partnership
allowed Giuseppe to concentrate on his beloved
The Picchiotti 50th Anniversary Ring is reminiscent of an
passions: designs and gemstones. Traveling the world in
amphitheatre, with three fans of “seats” (baguette
search of stones worthy of his designs has made him a
diamonds) looking over the “leading actor” (the oval
true connoisseur, and even today working with colored
ruby). Weighing over 8 carats, the remarkable ruby is an
stones is his labor of love and guiding passion.
exceptionally beautiful stone that has been classified as entirely natural, with no heat-treatment or color
Today, this highly successful, world-renowned
enhancement, which is very rare for a ruby of this size.
enterprise is run by Giuseppe and seven family members including his wife, Matilde (Marily), daughter, Maria
“It is the perfect stone, the one I had been searching
Carola, his two sons, Filippo and Umberto, his sister,
for to create this special piece that marks this special
Annamaria and niece Francesca.
milestone,” said Mr. Picchiotti, “a piece for the true connoisseur, an heirloom worthy of an exceptional
Each family member is responsible for a different
collection.”
aspect of the company and each contributes greatly to its
An excerpt from “Picchiotti: The First Fifty Years,” a
success. Picchiotti comments: “Since the very beginning I
new book by jewelry historian Vivienne Becker:
always liked the idea that one day I would surround
“The 50th anniversary ring, exuberant, exciting yet
myself with my children and relatives to help me with the
sublimely elegant, is, Giuseppe feels, the most
business.” Giuseppe Picchiotti, just like the remarkable
spectacular illustration of Picchiotti’s refined, rarefied
architecturally-designed jewelry which bears his distinctive
hand-craftsmanship. Inspired by a classical amphitheatre,
mark, has started a tradition of design mastery that will
the soaring shape of the three fan elements lined with
live on through generations – a tradition of fine
baguette diamonds evokes the image of rows of seats
craftsmanship – and a grand passion for excellence in the
overlooking the central stage, in which stands the leading
making of Fine Jewelry.
actor, the protagonist--in this case a breathtakingly beautiful ruby of 8.05 carats, bathed in the diamond
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L’ANFITEATRO ANNIVERSARY RING
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THE PICCHIOTTI FAMILY
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limelight of row upon row of specially re-cut baguette
sapphires. Embellished by diamond motifs, these unique
diamonds, meticulously set on the curving, soaring fan
gemstones are for one-of-a- kind earrings.
shaped motifs. Giuseppe searched far and wide for the
The soft curls of the Feather brooch, one of Picchiotti’s
ultimate gemstone to celebrate 50 years of Picchiotti’s
most successful designs, now appear in a miniature
gem artistry and craftsmanship. He found just what he was
version, set throughout with diamonds, and kept together
looking for in this exceptional ruby, from Mozambique, a
by a sinuous spine of square sapphires.
brilliant new stone of extraordinary vivacity and intense colour, with a light, bright and clean crystal structure. Even
“PICCHIOTTI: THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS” BY
more remarkable, the ruby has been classified as entirely
VIVIENNE BECKERTO
natural, with no heat-treatment or colour enhancement, very rare for a ruby of this size. It is a gemstone with a
In celebration of its 50th Anniversary in 2017, Picchiotti
strong personality and imposing presence, with charm,
presents PICCHIOTTI: THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS, by
grace and charisma. A true connoisseur‘s gem, a natural
esteemed jewelry historian and contributing editor for the
treasure, a future heirloom, worthy of a princely collection,
Financial Times, Vivienne Becker. The 248-page book also
and now at the heart of a dynamically different Picchiotti
debut at Baselworld 2017, the World Watch and Jewellery
creation that honours the past and looks to the future.”
Show in Basel, Switzerland (March 23 to 30). Susan Jacques, President and CEO of the Gemological Institute
50 Years of Style
of America (GIA), has written the foreword. “Having launched Picchiotti in 1967, I first went to Basel in 1973...and we have been showing our collections
Since 1967, the distinctive Picchiotti style has been
there every year since,” said Giuseppe Picchiotti, founder
guided by a mix of classicism, deep love for colored
and CEO. “On the occasion of our 50th Anniversary, I am
gemstones, and a dynamic drive towards innovation.
thrilled to unveil this glorious book by Vivienne Becker,
These key ingredients come together with a particular
the story of our family’s half-century of love and
harmony of design, material and technique, all infused
achievement.”
with a powerful Italian ingenuity.
PICCHIOTTI: THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS traces the
Today, 50 years later, Picchiotti jewelry remains true to
astonishing journey of Giuseppe Picchiotti, from his birth
its classical roots and to the original values of design
in Valenza, Italy’s jewelry center, to his position today as
codes and inspirations that, year after year, are continually
the head of a classic Italian Fine Jewelry company revered
renewed through artistry, improved crafts skills and
around the world.
advanced revolutionary technology.
Eschewing his family’s pharmacy business, Giuseppe
The 2017 Collection is a tribute to Picchiotti’s glorious
chose instead to follow his passion for jewelry,
past 50 years, as well as a celebration of the beginning of
apprenticing in an atelier at age 13, later attending
the next 50 years!
jewelry school, and studying English in London. By his
Inspired by the geometry of Art Déco, the design of
early 20s he was designing his own jewelry and traveling
this platinum one-of-a-kind ring frames a single cushion
the world to source precious gemstones. In 1967,
diamond in a seamless border of flawlessly recut baguette
together with his sister Annamaria, and a young assistant,
diamonds. Platinum. Décoratif Collection.
Giuseppe opened his namesake company, Pichiotti.
A classic ring, belonging to the Special Gem
Ms. Becker lovingly chronicles five decades of
Collection, set with a 22.03 carat oval sapphire and
Picchiotti jewelry, influenced by nature and architecture,
surrounded by baguette-cut diamonds. The shank is
embracing Italian craftsmanship and artistry, through the
three-dimensionally set with a diamond micro-pavé on the
discerning eye of its visionary leader, as well as the seven
sides, and baguette diamonds along the center. Platinum.
family members who embody the heart and soul of the
Earrings aglow in a setting of rare splendor belong to
House of Picchiotti.
the Essentially Color Collection, featuring mesmerizing Madagascar pear-shaped pink sapphires and cushion blue
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PICCHIOTTI : THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS (cover)
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About the Author
1980s: La Colonna Romana
Vivienne Becker is an internationally renowned jewelry
This Picchiotti signature piece features an exceptional
historian and contributing editor for the Financial Times’
square ruby and baguette diamond workmanship that
“How To Spend It” magazine. She is the author of
results in a necklace of pure beauty and artistry. Inspired
numerous articles and books on the history of jewelry and
by architectural elements known as “Colonna Romana,”
jewelry making, including “Antique and Twentieth-
the necklace is unmistakably Picchiotti, with square rubies
Century Jewelry,” “The Impossible Collection of Jewelry,”
set in yellow gold and baguette diamonds set on white
and “Art Nouveau Jewelry.” She is also a co-author of
gold. Onyx rounds out the elegant trio in this setting.
“Read My Pins : Stories from a Diplomat’s Jewel Box,” with former Secretary of State Madeleine Korbel Albright.
1990s: The Ruby Cascade
Ms. Becker lectures on jewelry in Britain, Asia, and the US.
A master at making colored stones the focal point of his About the Design
pieces, Picchiotti created the Ruby Cascade, a cascade necklace of round cabochon rubies set in yellow gold and
PICCHIOTTI: THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS was designed in
large baguettes set in platinum. Together they result in a
London under the artistic direction of Misha Anikst of
one-of-a-kind, world-class design. This piece was honored
Anikst Design, and printed in Italy. The book contains
with the 1998 Annual Couture Design Award in the
more than 150 color photographs, including signature
Colored Gemstone Category for Picchiotti’s exceptional
Picchiotti pieces through the decades: from the iconic
workmanship with rubies
1967 Rose Brooch, a bloom of 400 brilliant-cut pavé-set diamonds on a baguette stem, to the magnificent 2017
2000s: The Marily Ring
50th Anniversary L’Anfiteatro Ruby Ring.
To celebrate its 40th Anniversary in 2007, Mr. Picchiotti 5 MASTERPIECES FOR 5 DECADES
conceived a very personal work of art: Marily. This important and prestigious ring bears the name of his wife and partner, a critical contributor to the success of the
As Picchiotti, one of the leading jewelry manufactures
company. Also inspired by the discovery of a cushion-cut
of the world, is celebrating its 50th anniversary, here is a
Fancy Yellowish Brown diamond weighing over 15 carats,
retrospective of Picchiotti’s main works of art spanning
the Marily features rare proportions and a sweet shape,
over five decades. These are masterpieces that have each
with square diamonds in the outline re-cut one-by-one in
marked their own decade, granting Picchiotti a special
a tapered fashion.
place among the nest jewelry houses.
2017: L’Anfiteatro
1967-1979: The Rose Brooch
To celebrate the company’s 50th Anniversary in 2017, and
A magni cent achievement from half a century ago, the
to mark this momentous mile- stone, Mr. Picchiotti wanted
iconic Rose Brooch has marked the history of Picchiotti.
to create a jewel that captured the essence of Picchiotti
The bloom of over 400 brilliant-cut pavé-set diamonds
style and craftsmanship. The exuberant, exciting yet
includes a rich rose head where each of the seven petals
sublimely elegant ring is inspired by a classical
is composed separately, and then assembled with the
amphitheater, evoking rows of seats overlooking the
mastery and finesse that go into every Picchiotti design.
central stage on which stands the lead- ing actor, the
The sinuous stem is set with specially re-cut baguette
protagonist. An exceptional ruby of 8.05 carats, bathed in
diamonds to complete this work of art.
diamond limelight, dazzles with extraordinary vivacity and intense color. With a light, bright and clean crystal
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THE ROSE BROOCH
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LA COLONNA ROMANA
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THE RUBY CASCADE
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THE MARILY RING
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structure, the ruby is even more remarkable as it has been
and designers have created two exceptional rings and
classified as entirely natural, with no heat treatment or
new matching Rose ring and earrings for the Titanium
color enhancement, very rare for a ruby of this size.
Collection.
TITANIUM MINI-CAPSULE COLLECTION DEBUT IN
Blue Titan
BASEL A masterwork ring made entirely of blue Titanium, this Picchiotti founder and CEO Giuseppe Picchiotti will
ring showcases Picchiotti’s impeccable workmanship.
unveil a new mini-capsule collection of Titanium jewelry at
Diamonds encircle white mother-of-pearl, which streams
Baselworld 2017, the World Watch and Jewellery Show in
down from a magnificent 5-carat cushion-cut sapphire
Basel, Switzerland (March 23-30). The Titanium Collection
with no heat treatment or color enhancement.
joins the 2017 Picchiotti Collection featuring Signature Pieces and the company’s new and innovative Xpandable
The Titan Rose
Collection of rings and bracelets. Mr. Picchiotti remarked: “Thanks to our highly trained
For 50 years, the company’s Signature Rose motif and
goldsmiths and our constant research for new
classic Rose collections have made Picchiotti renowned
technologies, we have created two exceptional Titanium
among the nest jewelers in the world. Now Picchiotti has
rings as well as anodized red-purple Titanium pieces in
applied innovative Titanium technology and improved
our iconic Rose motif.”
artisan skills to create more modern, stylized Rose pieces for a new age: anodized red-purple Titanium in tandem
A Noble Metal
with white gold for coordinated rings and earrings
featuring white diamonds and red rubies.
Titanium is a noble metal whose name derives from the
Combining the long tradition of Picchiotti’s beloved
Greek god of strength, Titan. Named in 1793 by the
Rose blossoms with a twist of innovation and precision
German chemist M.H. Klaproth, Titanium is characterized
design, Picchiotti has merged old-world craftsmanship
by a warm gray color. Titanium is extremely light and
and new technology to present the 21st Century Titanium
non-allergenic, and it can be used alone or as an alloy
Collection.
with other metals. Red Titan Anodization Produces Color Even more unusual, this design features an internal Titanium can be colored via a procedure called
Titanium structure that supports the entire ring. The
“anodization,” in which the metal is heated in order to
structure is coated with rosé gold enhanced by a unique
produce specific colors. The metal is coated with an
combination of Rosé and multicolored Ethiopian Opal, a
extremely thin layer of Titanium Oxide, and by using
very fine quality opal, embellished with diamond motifs
electrolytic techniques these layers are thickened to
and an emerald-cut diamond weighing over 17 carats.
produce a vast range of colors. Once the desired color is achieved it does not change.
XPANDABLE COLLECTION
For Skilled Artisans Only
Where Beauty Meets Comfort and FIt
Because Titanium is such a hard metal it can be difficult to
Since its introduction in 2016, the Xpandable
work with, requiring highly skilled and trained artisans
Collection by Picchiotti has met with tremendous
who know how to shape it into the works of art for which
worldwide success. This revolutionary line of diamond and
Picchiotti is known. These experienced Picchiotti artisans
gemstone jewelry uses innovative and invisible
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Jewellery Historian
UNIQUE ART EARRINGS
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Jewellery Historian
THE TITAN ROSE EARRINGS
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BLUE TITAN
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Jewellery Historian
RED TITAN
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technology to expand and contract, solving a myriad of customer challenges concerning comfort and fit. Now, by popular demand, Picchiotti introduces several new designs to both its Classical and Fashion collections. BUFF-TOP A bracelet and coordinating ring dazzle with diamond pavé-set links alternating with elegant lines of bu -top sapphires. GOLD ACCENTED This chic and re ned gold-accented selection of rings and a bracelet, with sparkling diamonds, will glow beautifully on the fortunate woman who wears them. THE ART OF BAGUETTES Giuseppe Picchiotti’s distinctive designs are known far and wide by his signature usage of calibrated stones, particularly baguettes. The use of such stones is a highly demanding and expensive aspect of jewelry design, which over the years has prompted many collections known as “The Art of Baguettes.” This exceptional technique has now been applied to Picchiotti’s Xpandable bands: beautiful baguette diamonds paired with precision-cut octagonal sapphires and emeralds create exclusive and highly sophisticated rings.
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Xpandable Collection Diamond and Sapphires
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Xpandable Collection Wide gold-accented bangle, set with diamonds
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Jewellery Historian
Xpandable Collection Wide gold-accented ring, set with diamonds
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Jewellery Historian
Xpandable Collection Square diamonds and octagonal emeralds
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Jewellery Historian
Xpandable Collection Emerald-cut diamonds and octagonal sapphires
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Jewellery Historian
Xpandable Collection Gold-accented bangle, set with diamonds
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Jewellery Historian
Xpandable Collection Square diamonds and octagonal sapphires
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Gemology
J A D E I T E
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
THE BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS BY EVA KOUNTOURAKI
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Unlike most gems that show their best when set in precious metals and would better not be touched so that their surface reflections remain undisturbed, this one is a gem that ought to be felt rather than simply looked at. It should preferably be worn against our bare skin so we can be in direct contact with its immaculate surface and feel its luscious essence. Jadeite is by all means a precious and beautiful gemstone, but still, this is a restricting title when used for this treasure; because Jadeite is so much more than simply that. Jadeite is one of the most mystical, mysterious and overwhelming gemstones in existence. According to ancient beliefs, it is the material that links Heaven with Earth, or else, it is the connection between the spiritual sphere and materiality. The link between what a man is and what he ought to be. So jadeite is here to inspire us and remind us that we are capable of obtaining the ultimate beauty and cleansing of our soul, but at the same time shows us how earthy and materialistic we still are. And this is similar to what humans are willing to go through in order to obtain jadeite. In fact, mining for this gem involves situations, dangers and challenges that are beyond most people’s wildest, and often scariest, imagination. In a remote area hidden in the mountains of North Burma there is a location called “Jade land”. It is a region which is either unreachable during the dry season because of the terrible dust whose fine particles fill your eyes and block your breath; or impossibly unreachable during the wet season, because of the severe monsoons in a wild jungle infested with disease-bearing mosquitoes, where tons of sticky and dangerous mud and streaming turbulent water turn all the passages into dangerous traps.
Still, even in these conditions, the
miners defy all dangers and cross the inhospitable land with the hope to find a piece of heaven in the dirt. North Burma is the unique source for what the market calls imperial jadeite, or else, the finest and most extraordinary variety of jadeite, which exhibits an intense green colour, fine texture and a level of translucency that is unseen among other varieties and qualities. THE HUTTON-MDIVANI NECKLACE was acquired by THE CARTIER COLLECTION Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S
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Central America, especially Guatemala, is another
if the material is of high quality and not treated, as they
important source of jadeite.
are entirely carved out of one piece of jadeite so there is a high percentage of waste during the fashioning process.
Apart from the ‘imperial’ green, jadeite occurs in
One such bangle, with a diameter of about 6cm, sold for
all shades of green as well as in a variety of other colours
more than $2.5 million in a Hong Kong auction more than
which include white and black, purple, yellow, orange and
fifteen years ago.
brown; a mottled appearance with more than one colour is also commonly encountered. Jadeite’s quality is judged
Jadeite is often referred to as the “stone of
based on a combination of its colour, its texture and its
heaven” as for many it represents a piece of paradise
degree of translucency. It is an aggregate material, not a
handed down to us by the gods. Its rich feel satisfies our
single crystal like most important gemstones, which
will for material wealth, and its precious essence and
means that it is very difficult for such a substance to be
heavy history urge us to follow the path for spirituality and
anything else than opaque. However, in its highest quality,
inner peace. The nature of jadeite, this truly extraordinary
jadeite is composed of microscopic interlocking crystals
material, can be summed up in this important Greek
that give it a fine texture, a smooth surface that takes a
poet’s quote: “Man is a pyramid. On its basis the beast,
high luster and a translucent body that allows the light to
on its top God. Our duty is climbing our way up.”
refract in it and make it glow with a mesmerizing shine. So it takes pain, inhuman fighting with vile This same microcrystalline structure is responsible
weather and environmental conditions, and personal
for jadeite’s exceptional toughness. In fact, jadeite is the
suffering, if you want to find and hold a piece of jadeite.
toughest gemstone we use, which means it is very difficult
But still, there is hope. Hope that once you surpass the
to break. However, it’s moderately high rating in the
arduousness you will be awarded with a piece of Heaven.
hardness scale allows us to carve it in intricate forms and
A boulder of godly material that once you touch you can
create unique objects that can reach sky-high prices in the
never forget the feeling and constantly keep craving for…
world’s markets. In fact, some of the most expensive pieces ever sold in auctions included jadeite. One such example is the “Hutton-Mdivani”, a graduated bead necklace composed by twenty-seven spheres of imperial material, which set an auction record in 2014, when it fetched a staggering $27.44 million at Sotheby’s. Jadeite is deeply tied to two ancient and important civilizations, the Chinese and the Mesoamerican. The Olmec, the Mayan, the Aztecs, praised jadeite more than gold, and used it for their weapons, taking advantage of its physical properties, as well as for ornamental and religious objects of maximum importance. The Chinese have treasured jadeite for more than 3000 years and have been creating jewelry pieces of symbolic significance out of it for millennia. Hololith bangle bracelets are probably the most important type of jadeite jewelry and are worn as protective amulets that symbolize eternity and unity. The price of such bracelets can be quite substantial, especially
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The art of creativity
GEA
T H E O R I G I N O F C R E AT I O N
B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R
The admiration of nature and its exquisite perfection is an exercise that arouses our interest in gaining increased knowledge of the beautiful environment that surrounds us. Here, surprising phenomena are constantly taking place. From an admiration for the earth as the center of all creation, Gea was born, a collection created by world famous MAGERIT JOYAS and inspired by the origin of life and the harmony of nature.
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The admiration of nature and its exquisite perfection is an
highly original and refreshing pieces, Magerit’s foremost
exercise that arouses our interest in gaining increased
objective is to breathe new life into the traditional
knowledge of the beautiful environment that surrounds
jewellery industry. With the increasing global outreach,
us. Here, surprising phenomena are constantly taking
the company displays its collections in many top jewellery
place.
exhibitions, and has developed strong roots both domestically and within the international market.
Only in nature do we find numerous species in continuous development, giving us infinite shapes, sizes, textures and
It is an important part of the company’s product
colours. Every living being is unique and unrepeatable.
philosophy to distance itself from the standard selection
The miracle of creation manifests itself incessantly in the
of jewellery products. Magerit has built a reputation of
natural world.
uncompromising commitment to providing its customers with jewellery of utmost quality and uniqueness. Strong
From an admiration for the earth as the center of all
internal culture and collaboration between employees
creation, Gea was born, a collection inspired by the origin
helps effectively oversee the process of product
of life and the harmony of nature.
development and ensure strict quality control.
The careful fusion between fantasy and realism offers
Magerit has used the unlimited ingenuity and the
amazing creations that breathe delicacy and femininity.
savoir-faire of its jewelers to the fullest to develop its own
The chromatic variety is especially important, offering
distinctive and characterised style of portraying the
freshness and warmth to the original designs. The use of
aesthetic appeal of natural and historic motifs within its
blue and green stones recalls the colours of the earth.
collections. The original artisanal skills of craftsmen combined with modern technologies enable the creation
Organic motifs that make reference to seeds, petals and
of jewels which encompass both novelty and personality.
flowers abound. The figurative touch, always present in
An important attribute of Magerit jewels is their serial
the brand’s collections, is the protagonist in the most
number, which is engraved on individual pieces and which
important proposals of the collection.
guarantees their exclusive nature as a unique, hand-crafted item. Distinguishing design and superior
As in nature, every Magerit creation represents a unique,
quality are Magerit products’ main features which
original and unrepeatable piece.
differentiate the brand from other jewellery producers in the industry.
Magerit is a Spanish company made up of professionals whose knowledge and great experience in the field of fine
Magerit’s jewellery blends its designers’ creativity and
jewellery cultivates designs distinguished by a high
originality with the sophisticated, handcrafted finishes of
degree of both creativity and originality.
each individual piece. Its exclusive designs never go unnoticed and set their wearer apart. The company is
When founded in 1994, it was important to the creators
currently based in the city of Madrid and has one hundred
to embrace the essence of Spanish culture. The
retail locations in twenty countries.
headquarters were established in the heart of Spain, and even the company’s name, Magerit, an ancient name for
At the Jewellery Historian, we believe that Magerit is one
the thriving city of Madrid, reflects this. Like the meaning
of the brands that every woman should own a piece of
behind the name, ‘place of many streams’, Magerit draws
jewellery. Their jewellery is not only sophisticated but
inspiration from many cultures to create exquisite pieces
each piece is a real piece of art.
of art, which are as unique as the people who wear them. Magerit takes pride in making top-quality artisanal jewellery. From creating bespoke personal designs to
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Aurea Inspired by the golden spiral, it repeats itself in nature and guarantees the harmony of any creation. A symbol of growth, evolution, continuous development and eternity. 18K gold, set with sapphires and diamonds
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Inspired by the golden spiral, it repeats itself in nature and guarantees the harmony of any creation. A symbol of growth, evolution, continuous development and eternity. 18K gold, set with sapphires and diamonds
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Aurea
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Germina (from the Latin seed) The figure of a woman born from the inside of a seed is meant to symbolize the origin of life and the magic of the moment of creation. 18K gold, set with amethyst and diamonds
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Genus (from the Latin birth) Inspired by the original form adopted by multiple flowering births. 18K gold, topaz and diamonds
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| The art of creativity
Genus (from the Latin birth) Inspired by the original form adopted by multiple flowering births. 18K gold, topaz and diamonds
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Veris (from the Latin spring) This set represents nature and fertility as key elements of continuity and development. Woman and vegetation combine in a delicate embrace, giving life to a piece that surprises with its elegance and femininity. 18K gold set with white and green diamonds
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This set represents nature and fertility as key elements of continuity and development. Woman and vegetation combine in a delicate embrace, giving life to a piece that surprises with its elegance and femininity. 18K gold set with white and green diamonds
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Veris (from the Latin spring)
ART
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From the Great Mughals to the Maharajas Jewels from The Al Thani Collection
B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R
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The Tiger Eye Turban Ornament Cartier London, 1937 , Platinum, diamonds Brooch: H. 12.7 cm; W. 6 cm; Weight of the Tiger Eye diamond: 61.50 ct © The Al Thani Collection. All rights reserved. Photo Laziz Hamani
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The exhibition From the Great Mughals to the Maharajas: Jewels from The Al
From the Mughal Empire to independence, passing by the French and British colonial era, enjoy a fairytale fantasy and historical journey with the exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris.
Thani Collection allows visitors to immerse themselves in the jewellery traditions of the Indian subcontinent, from the Mughal period to the modern day, installed within an evocative and ethereal setting. The evolution of gem-setting and jewellery will be shown through over two hundred and seventy exceptional pieces from The Al Thani Collection, together with major works on loan from prestigious institutions and private collections. Famous historic Indian diamonds, spectacular precious objects and legendary pieces of jewellery will be brought together to represent the evolution of taste and technique in India’s jewelled arts over five centuries. The exhibition also presents the major developments in Indian jewellery traditions, from the peak of XVIIth century Mughal imperial patronage through years of political chaos and colonisation from the XVIIIth century onwards, to the age of the Durbar, great ceremonies that provided Indian sovereigns with a new setting in which to show off their jewels during the time of the British Raj. The exhibition repositions Indian jewellery traditions within the rich and complex cultures of the courts where they first originated, demonstrating how the profusion of stones and precious metals in the subcontinent led to the development of a sophisticated ornamental culture. Entering first in a Royal Treasury, visitors will find themselves surrounded by an exceptional group of dynastic gems, among which are the celebrated Agra, Idol’s Eye and Arcot II diamonds, all originating in India’s celebrated Golconda diamond mines. These are complimented by emeralds and spinels, some engraved with the names and titles of the rulers who owned them. The refinement of Mughal visual culture is a central theme of the exhibition, as is the dialogue it created with Europe over the course of numerous stylistic and technical exchanges that began with the Renaissance. Jade and rock crystal were celebrated at the Mughal court and define the second section of the experience. The exhibition brings together some exceptional pieces such as the Wine of Cup of the Emperor Jahangir, the earliest dated Mughal jade, inscribed with verses of Persian poetry along with the titles of the ruler and the Shah Jahan Dagger, whose blade is engraved with the title of the emperor. Indian jades were prized in China, as may be seen in a delicate opium cup with an ibex head engraved with a poem composed by the Qialong Emperor. Indian jewellery is characterised by the distinctive kundan technique, in which gemstones are set in gold without any prongs or mounts and by delicate polychrome enamel. The third section will bring together examples from throughout India. A solid gold gem-set pen case represents a form that is seen in miniature paintings but rarely survives. Such a luxurious object would have been used in the highest courtly circles for inscribing Imperial decrees. The exhibition brings together two jewelled tiger-headed finials from the throne of Tipu Sultan. A highlight is a rich offering of 18th century green-ground enamels from Hyderabad which would have been used in the rituals of a formal durbar – or court – visit. Another highlight will be a gem-set stool lent by the State Hermitage Museum which formed part of the original loot taken from the Mughal treasury by Nadir Shah, who invaded Delhi in 1739. The fourth section focuses on regalia and jewellery for adornment, starting with a spectacular display of turban ornaments from the 17th to 20th centuries. This
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The Nawanagar Cartier, 1937 Plantinum, rubies and diamonds © Christie’s Images Ltd
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Turban Ornament (sarpech) India, around 1900 ( turban ornament ) ; Paris 2012 (clip Cartier) Gold, silver, emerald, diamonds, pearl H: 11,7 cm; l: 12,8 cm Š The Al Thani Collection 2013. All rights reserved. Photo Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd
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View from the exhibition Joyaux de la collection Al Thani © Rmn-Grand Palais / Collection Al Thani
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View from the exhibition Joyaux de la collection Al Thani © Rmn-Grand Palais / Collection Al Thani
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View from the exhibition Joyaux de la collection Al Thani © Rmn-Grand Palais / Collection Al Thani
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grouping will focus on the high taste of Maharajas in the British Raj including
The exhibition closes with a homage to contemporary jewellery made by Indian jewellers or inspired by India. These include outstanding creations by Cartier and JAR which incorporate historic Indian gems.
spectacular diamond necklaces and jewelled articles such as a Hyderabad state sword and the Baroda pearl canopy. The exhibition moves forward with a concentration of outstanding jewellery made by European houses either for Indian princes or inspired by Indian taste. These include the exceptional enamel peacock aigrette made by Mellerio dits Meller and bought by Maharaja Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala. Maharaja Bhupinder of Patiala was a particularly important patron. Among his many acquisitions displayed in this exhibition are a spectacular ceremonial diamond necklace, created specially for him, and a ruby choker made for one of his wives. Also on display are two of Cartier’s most dazzling creations for the Maharaja Digvijaysinhji, son of the Maharaja Ranjitsinhji of Nawanagar, himself a ne connoisseur of precious stones who maintained close links with Jacques Cartier: the «Tiger Eye», an exceptional cognac-coloured diamond mounted in a turban ornament, and a superb Art Deco necklace made with rubies belonging to the royal treasury. The exhibition closes with a homage to contemporary jewellery made by Indian jewellers or inspired by India. These include outstanding creations by Cartier and JAR which incorporate historic Indian gems. The work of Mumbai jeweller Viren Bhagat fuses contemporary technique and materials with traditional jewellery forms and ornament. The curators of this exceptional exhibition are Dr Amin Jaffer, Chief Curator, Al Thani Collection ; Amina Taha-Hussein Okada, Senior Curator, musée national des arts asiatiques - Guimet. The exhibition was designed by bGc Studio. It is open daily from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and until 10 p.m. on Wednesday Closed every Tuesday. To access you can use metro lines 1 & 13 «ChampsElysées-Clemenceau» or line 9 «Franklin D.Roosevelt». The exhibition catalogue of 400 pages with 370 illustrations is a publication, Réunion des musées nationaux - Grand Palais Editions, Paris 2017.
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The Arcot II India, around 1760 ; recut in 1959 and 2011 Diamond, L. 2,61 cm ; l. 1,61 cm ; D. 0,6 cm ; weight : 17,21 ct Š The Al Thani Collection 2016. All rights reservec. Photo Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd
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Pair of earrings by JAR, Paris, 2012 Natural pearls and diamonds set with gold, marked 750 JAR Š The Al Thani Collection 2016. All rights reserved. Photo Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd
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The Agra Found in India in 1526 ; recut in 1880 and 1990 Diamant , 1,87 cm x 1,7 cm; Êp. 1 cm; poids: 28,15 ct Rose intense Š The Al Thani Collection. All rights reserved. Photo Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd
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Haute Joaillerie
a colourful history
For over five decades, royalty and international collectors have composed the clientele of the esteemed British jewellery brand which David Morris established in 1962. Jeremy Morris has since followed in his father’s footsteps and is now managing director and principal designer of David Morris. From within the elegant New Bond Street atelier, in the heart of London, beautiful couture jewellery is hand crafted to the highest standards using only the finest stones to ensure each unique piece is a work of art.
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Logo courtesy of DAVID MORRIS. Used with permission. Š DAVID MORRIS
B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R
| Haute Joaillerie
Photo courtesy of DAVID MORRIS © DAVID MORRIS
Jewellery Historian
An exceptional example of a rare Padparadscha. Named after the salmon-coloured aquatic lotus flower, these sapphires are unique to Ceylon and are extremely scarce. This 12.30ct Padparadscha sapphire ring features David Morris’ signature diamond surround setting, with 7.39cts of white kite-shape and round pink diamonds mounted in 18ct white gold.
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Jewellery Historian
Internationally renowned for creating breathtaking jewellery of flawless design, the legacy of David Morris,
| Haute Joaillerie commission from David Morris for the prince’s 21st birthday.
the London Jeweller, is truly compelling. Established over
In 1969 this international success was translated into
50 years ago and family-owned for two generations,
the boutique moving to its first Mayfair location and in
David Morris is a jeweller of proud heritage that has
1972 David Morris was honoured with the task of
stayed true to its origins of creating fine jewellery with a
designing the Miss World crown. Approached by founder
creative design ‘twist’ and of utilising only the nest, most
of the competition Eric Morley to redesign the existing
valuable gemstones in a glorious array of colours. Located
crown, David Morris conceived an iconic creation of
on London’s fabled Bond Street, the flagship boasts the
turquoise, lapis lazuli and diamonds that is still in use
rarity of an on-site atelier where artisans skillfully produce
today, and still as fresh in design as it was then.
precious creations.
In the interim, through his friendship with client
Captivated by fine jewellery and enamoured of the
Roger Moore and set designer Maurice Pinder, David
design process from a young age, David Morris began his
Morris began a long-standing and fruitful collaboration
illustrious career at the age of 15 as an apprentice in
with Eon Productions to supply jewellery for the James
London’s famed jewellery quarter, Hatton Garden. Having
Bond lm series. Beginning in 1971 with the magnificent
just graduated as a goldsmith from London’s Central
gems that illuminate the title sequence in Diamonds are
School of Arts and Crafts (now part of the esteemed
Forever, 1974 saw Maud Adams entice Roger Moore’s
Central Saint Martin School of Design), David Morris
James Bond in a golden suite of jewels in e Man with the
instantly gained the respect of his peers when he and his
Golden Gun.
design partner successively claimed the 9th and 10th De
Continuing on from this successful relationship
Beers Diamonds International Awards held annually in
many years later, David Morris again provided jewels for
New York.
more contemporary films, most memorably the scalloped
Along with many of his contemporaries, David
diamond ‘Bond’ riviere necklace worn by Teri Hatcher as
Morris was influenced by London’s 1960’s cultural
she seduces Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond in 1997’s
avant-garde, but made his own unique contribution with
Tomorrow Never Dies, as well as adorning Denise
innovative designs, meticulous craftsmanship and
Richards in 1999’s The World is Not Enough.
trendsetting colour combinations, all of which soon led to
Still recognised today as the jewellery brand
a loyal following and the opening of his first eponymous
synonymous with the James Bond franchise, the Bond
Hatton Garden store in 1962.
jewels are now part of a travelling exhibition, ‘Designing
His first royal connection came in the form of a
007 – Fifty Years of Bond Style’, which opened in 2012 at
commission from the Government of Lichtenstein and was
the Barbican in London. Also central to a diamond heist
for a bespoke sapphire and diamond tiara presented to
movie, David Morris gems, along with son Jeremy’s
Countess Kinsky of Austria by Crown Prince Hans Adam
design studio, played a central role in Guy Ritchie’s 2000
on the occasion of their marriage in July 1967. This royal
movie, Snatch.
seal of approval resulted in many more commissions and
In 1996, the David Morris boutique relocated from
a clientele that constituted some of the world’s most
Conduit Street, taking its rightful place on London’s
pre-eminent collectors including Elizabeth Taylor, Queen
legendary New Bond Street, Mayfair, in a magnificent
Noor of Jordan, Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran, Princess
townhouse dating from 1908. Designed by Scots architect
Margaret and Princess Ann.
William Flockhart, the flagship’s original façade of cast
More recently, a David Morris creation was seen
stone with stately pilasters remains intact, as does the
around the world on the bonnet of the vintage Aston
stunning hand- carved, gold leaf French paneling inside.
Martin car driven down the Mall in London by the Duke
Forming part of the only historically listed building on
and Duchess of Cambridge on their wedding day. The car,
Bond Street, the boutique provides the perfect genteel
which belongs to the Prince of Wales, was a gift from his
environment for a discerning clientele.
mother the Queen and is mounted with a small dragon, a
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Jewellery Historian
The important Sunset Ruby necklace, named after the exceptionally vivid 16.59ct Ceylon ruby with unusual shimmering tones of orange, pink and red, which caught Managing Director and designer Jeremy Morris’ eye. Dangling from the necklace on a long chain of 33.48cts of vivid pink and white diamonds is another incredibly rare gem - a detachable natural 30.30ct pearl drop.
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An exceptional example of a rare Padparadscha. Named after the salmon- coloured aquatic lotus flower, these sapphires are unique to Ceylon and are extremely scarce. This Padparadscha sapphire, natural pearl and diamond necklace can be transformed into a detachable brooch in 18ct white and red gold. Total Pearl Weight: 179.02cts Total Padparadscha Weight: 36.33cts Total Diamond Weight: 30.76cts
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To compliment the beautiful necklace, these Padparadscha sapphire and natural pearl earrings with 10.66ct & 10.18ct briolette drops and pink and white diamonds in 18ct white and rose gold make the perfect statement of colour. Total diamond weight: 28.26cts Total pearl weight: 21.27cts Total sapphire weight: 6.00cts
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Jeremy Morris took over the helm of David Morris from his father in 2003 and soon collaborated with
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celebrated English interior designer David Collins to
He has been commissioned to create jewels for the
create a showroom with sleek bespoke furnishings and
late Gianni Versace and Barbra Streisand while Queen
warm hues of taupe and soft gold. Each piece has been
Rania of Jordan and Oprah Winfrey are among his clients.
personally designed, from the handcrafted leather chairs
Yasmin Le Bon, Catherine Deneuve, Beyoncé Knowles
and desks to the sleek antique mirrored display cabinets,
and Catherine Zeta-Jones are amongst many to have
creating a sophisticated environment that perfectly
appeared on the red carpet bejeweled by David Morris.
reflects the contemporary glamour and re ned craftsmanship of David Morris fine jewellery.
The ultimate recognition of this exceptional design, craftsmanship and technique was given when an item of
Having studied fine art in London, with 5 years
David Morris jewellery was selected to be included in the
apprenticing with illustrious Place Vendôme jewellers and
permanent exhibition of the Jewellery Room at the
a stint with an Antwerp diamond supplier, Jeremy Morris
Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The donated
was perfectly positioned to take over as Managing
piece, a pair of earrings from the Heritage collection, was
Director and principal designer and steer the company
inspired by David Morris’s ‘flexi’ ring of the early 1960’s
into the new millennium. He believes that the attraction to
and designed in 2012 to celebrate the company’s fiftieth
David Morris jewellery lies not only in the fabulous and
anniversary.
original designs but also in the very gems that are
As stated by the museum, “these earrings, by
handpicked for each creation. His inspiration comes from
London jeweller David Morris, unite elegant design with
all over the world and focuses on the beauty of the stones
superb gemstones and exacting craftsmanship. In
retaining their inherent character.
addition to the large diamonds spaced down the centre
Recent successes include the Rose Cut Diamond
of the earrings, the surface of the white gold glitters
signature collection of jewellery. Named after its
subtly with a fine dusting of diamonds. This effect, termed
resemblance to the petals of a rose bud, the rose cut
‘micro-set’ by David Morris, owes its success to the
diamond was introduced early in the 16th century but
precision and density with which these tiny diamonds are
replaced in popularity by the modern, brilliant-cut
set.”
diamond around the 19th century. The beauty of these
More recently, Jeremy Morris acquired an
diamonds is in their many facets, giving them an almost
outstanding 120 ct. rough diamond from the famed
translucent appearance. Designed by Jeremy Morris and
Cullinan mine in South Africa which, after 8 painstaking
presented to his wife on their wedding day, the rose cut
months of cleaving and polishing, revealed an exceptional
diamond band was designed as a token of love, and as a
59.89ct D colour, type IIa cushion-cut diamond of
David Morris success story, has come to represent a
extraordinary fire and brilliance.
celebration of life.
It is now the centerpiece of an exceptional bangle
Other accomplishments come in the form of the
that features over 10 cts. of pink and white fancy-cut
feminine English Garden collection which depicts a place
diamonds mounted into arresting, independently moving
where magnificent flowers meet mythical creatures and
petals. Taking inspiration for the design from the
richly coloured and articulated butterflies swirl about, or
incredible qualities portrayed in the diamond, Jeremy
the new range of diamond set watches with
Morris envisaged the stone as the cool, limpid waters of a
mother-of-pearl dials and diamond or crocodile leather
pond, while the swaying of the lilies floating upon it came
straps; a contemporary take on the original and
to represent the movement of the delicate, en tremblant
ever-popular rose cut diamond watch design.
pink diamond petals.
Jeremy Morris’s designs are now more directional,
The stone was unveiled at the prestigious La
with delicate oral motifs and expertly combined colours.
Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris in 2014, where David
Just as a master colourist regards his options on a palette
Morris was honoured to exhibit for the first time and
before committing them to canvas, so Jeremy Morris
where they will exhibit again in September 2016. Fittingly
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An Important Burma no heat blue sapphire, paraiba tourmaline & white diamond necklace featuring a large central 46.10ct Cushion Sapphire in 18ct white gold. Total Sapphire Weight: 118.38cts Total Diamond Weight: 49.59cts Total Paraiba Weight: 14.67cts
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An exceptional 8.14ct cushion cut diamond ring with a surround of paraiba tourmaline, blue sapphire and round white diamonds in 18ct white gold. Total diamond weight: 8.76 carats. Total sapphire weight: 1.97 carats.Total Paraiba tourmaline weight: 1.73 carats
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Striking pear-shape earrings featuring 12.71cts of rare Paraiba tourmalines and 13.45ct of marquise-cut diamond surrounds. Discovered relatively recently in the late 1980’s, in the Brazilian State of Paraiba, this tourmaline is a turquoise blue-green gemstone with a vividness and intensity of colour unequalled in any other gem in the world. As most of the stones discovered in the mine were almost all fragments, Paraiba tourmalines of any significant size are incredibly rare, especially as the mine has now yielded all of its gems. Total diamond weight: 13.45 carats. Total Paraiba tourmaline weight: 12.71 carats
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An important 30.03cts Pigeon Blood Burma no heat ruby necklace with white diamond micro- set motifs crafted in 18ct white gold. Total diamond weight: 23.10cts To complete this striking set, these important 18.79cts Pigeon Blood Burma no heat ruby chandelier earrings with pear shape white diamonds set in 18ct white gold. Total diamond weight: 7.07cts
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An important ruby and diamond cuff bangle featuring 59.68cts of rubies and 53.50cts of white diamonds mounted in flexible 18ct white gold. The rubies are certified from Burma, the source of the rarest and most desirable of these gems, with some of them carrying the additional accreditation of being ‘pigeon-blood red’ – the rarest of all. Total diamond weight: 53.50 carats. Total ruby weight: 59.68 carats
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also first launched in 1962, this exhibition is renowned as
creative inspiration behind the past 50 years of David
the place for art lovers and collectors to rub elbows with
Morris.”
internationally esteemed vendors under the glass roof of the Grand Palais.
In December 2014, David Morris launched its second London boutique in renowned department store
“Like the Universal Exhibition of 1900 for which it
Harrods’ Fine Jewellery Room. In the last year the brand’s
was constructed, the Grand Palais and the objects
much anticipated second European flagship store in Paris
exhibited therein are a testimonial to the marriage of
has opened, closely followed by a boutique in Doha,
beauty and technology.” This quote aptly sums up the
Qatar. It latest step in expanding and building the brand
very essence of what makes an item of David Morris
globally. Under Jeremy Morris’s direction, David Morris
jewellery so unique; the marriage of beauty and
now operates boutiques located on the luxury
technology. A perfect example of this innovation in
thoroughfares of Hong Kong, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Moscow,
craftsmanship is the Pirouette collection, featuring
Riyadh, Baku and Doha.
bangles which rely on fluidity of movement yet deceptive
David Morris, the London Jeweller, continues on the
strength for their success. e construction of the highly
principle of creating unique and imaginative pieces to
flexible white gold casing, mounted with an array of
exacting standards. With an innate air for the art of
exceptional gemstones, is a feat of design which allows
jewellery, by combining rare and exquisite stones with
for perfect movement.
traditional materials, David Morris produces jewellery that
All David Morris jewellery is built around the stones, with a minimal use of gold or platinum and the emphasis
transcends generations, each design expressing ingenuity, creativity and unparalleled quality.
being on the diamonds. is re ned manufacturing ensures supreme lightness of metal, giving an intricate, lace-like
Miss Daisy
quality. e mantra of ‘creativity with a twist’, subtle and sophisticated design, a delicate and feminine mix of
Following the release of the exotic Palm collection
colours and the use of incredibly rare and valuable
in 2013, David Morris has evolved the Petite Palm – a
gemstones complete the David Morris design ethos.
more accessible and vividly coloured design that perfectly
In 2015, David Morris announced its first major sponsorship as a supporter of the Royal Academy of Arts.
captures the essence of the tranquil and award-winning gardens of England at the beginning of summertime.
A close neighbour in London’s Mayfair, the partnership
Starting from £9,900 and crafted from either 18ct
found its source in a shared passion for art. Key to the
white or rose gold, this delicate and feminine collection
Academy’s autumn programme was the landmark
comprises four exclusive asymmetric designs: single or
exhibition by highly innovative Chinese artist and Royal
double ower rings and single or two- part drop earrings. A
Academician Ai Weiwei. Curated in collaboration with the
perfectly matching sautoir necklace and bracelet
artist from his studio in Beijing, the exhibition featured
complete the oral arrangement.
some of his most important works from the time he
To mirror the array of colours found in nature, each
returned to China in 1993 from the US, right up to present
piece is expertly set with white diamonds and a variety of
day, featuring the creation of new, site specific
semi-precious gemstones: majestic purple amethyst, regal
installations throughout the Royal Academy spaces.
pink rubellite, luxurious green tourmaline and piercing
With its British culture and history as well as its
blue aquamarine. Subtle white mother-of-pearl, sleek
family tradition, David Morris and the Royal Academy
black onyx and traditional all-diamond versions provide a
both stand for the same values of artistic excellence,
demure alternative.
inspiration and creativity. David Morris creations emanate
All variations feature a brilliant-cut central diamond
from pure artistic freedom, a freedom that the Royal
with micro-set diamonds surrounding each individual leaf.
Academy defends and promotes through its works,
e all-diamond versions utilise marquise and brilliant-cut
debates and exhibitions. Says Jeremy Morris: “Our
stones of superlative quality and clarity to form a luscious
association with the Royal Academy of Arts embodies the
array of foliage.
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Rare Paraiba tourmaline ring featuring 3 oval tourmalines with oval white diamonds interspersed with round micro Paraibas and mounted on 18ct white gold. Discovered relatively recently in the late 1980’s, in the Brazilian State of Paraiba, this tourmaline is a turquoise blue- green gemstone with a vividness and intensity of colour unequalled in any other gem in the world. Total diamond weight: 5.10 carats. Total Paraiba tourmaline weight: 3.17 carats.
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A striking pear shape blue sapphire necklace comprised of 70.12cts of sapphires with white diamond micro-set motifs set in 18ct white gold. Total diamond weight: 31.09cts To complement the necklace these stunning pear shape blue sapphire chandelier earrings with white diamond set in 18ct white gold. Total sapphire weight: 58.62cts. Total diamond weight: 5.93cts
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Petite Palm forms part of David Morris’s feminine
Maintaining a theme of beauty from beneath the
English garden narrative, cleverly combining the palm
waves, Jeremy Morris’ second variation in the collection
leaf’s symbol of peace and victory with David Morris’s
incorporates delicate pink coral beads which contrast
worldwide reputation for creating fine jewellery with a
beautifully with white diamonds while mounted in 18ct
unique design twist.
rose gold. Owing to its intense and permanent coloration and glossiness, precious coral has been harvested since
Pearl Rose
antiquity for decorative use. Coral jewellery has been found in prehistoric
Known as the ‘Queen of Gems’, pearls have a long
European burials and was worn in ancient Egyptian as an
and rich history. Believed to be amongst the rarest and
amulet, believed to bestow protective properties on its
most expensive of jewels, the Romans and Egyptians
wearer. Designs with coral proved especially popular
prized natural pearls above all others. Indeed, in an act of
during the Victorian and Art Deco periods. As with all
defiance to Marc Anthony and in order to prove the
precious metals and rare gemstones sourced by David
wealth of Egypt, Cleopatra allegedly orchestrated the
Morris, the coral is responsibly acquired.
most expensive dinner by serving a plate containing only
The final design variation in the collection sees
a large pearl, which she then crushed and drank down
delicate, textured rose cut diamonds, central to David
with wine.
Morris jewellery design, beautifully juxtaposed between
David Morris, the London jeweller, has become
rows of modern brilliant-cut diamonds in 18ct white gold.
synonymous amongst connoisseurs and collectors as one
By bringing back this antique and almost forgotten rose
of very few international jewellery houses still able to
cut and infusing it with a modern twist, David Morris
source these rare and magnificent commodities and
shows its passion and love for tradition and the craft of
create the unique and exceptional designs for which
jewellery.
they’ve become renowned. With such a passion for these gems, CEO and
Petite Palm
principal designer Jeremy Morris sought to conceive a collection that would still appeal to the natural pearl devotee, while at the same time being more accessible. Utilising cultured Akoya pearls as one of the design elements, David Morris has created the Pearl Rose collection in homage to the ‘Queen of Gems’. Celebrated for their beauty and rich lustre, Japanese Akoya pearls are perfectly spherical with rich colour, ranging from white, cream and pink to silver pink. The full collection consists of eight exclusive designs of rings, bangles, earrings and a necklace, each of which is available in three different materials and each of which incorporates a row of delicate central stones firmly nestled between two rows of sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds. e collection comprises all organic elements, each one utilised in jewellery design since times of antiquity. is technique of channel setting them between rows of diamonds brings them up to date and results in a style that is contemporary and striking while remaining easy to wear.
Following the release of the exotic Palm collection in 2013, David Morris has evolved the Petite Palm – a more accessible and vividly coloured design that perfectly captures the essence of the tranquil and award-winning gardens of England at the beginning of summertime. Starting from £9,900 and crafted from either 18ct white or rose gold, this delicate and feminine collection comprises seven exclusive asymmetric designs: single or double flower rings, single or two-part drop earrings and a necklace which was launched to coincide with Doha Watches and Jewellery Show 2017. A perfectly matching sautoir necklace and bracelet complete the floral arrangement. To mirror the array of colours found in nature, each piece is expertly set with white diamonds and a variety of semi-precious gemstones: majestic purple amethyst, regal pink rubellite, luxurious green tourmaline and piercing blue aquamarine. Subtle white mother-of-pearl, sleek black onyx and traditional all-diamond versions provide a demure alternative.
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Miss Daisy earrings
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Miss Daisy tiara
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Miss Daisy ring
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Petite Palm necklace - white gold & diamonds in white gold
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Petite Palm double earrings - white gold & diamonds in white gold
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Petite Palm ring - white gold, tourmaline & diamonds in white gold
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Petite Palm earrings - white gold, amethysts & diamonds in white gold
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All variations feature a brilliant-cut central diamond with
By resurrecting this almost forgotten cut and infusing it
micro-set diamonds surrounding each individual leaf. e
with a modern twist, David Morris shows its passion for
all-diamond versions utilise marquise and brilliant-cut
the tradition and craft of jewellery in a truly feminine new
stones of superlative quality and clarity to form a luscious
collection.
array of foliage. Petite Palm forms part of David Morris’s feminine English
Arrival in Paris with a new architecturally inspired
garden narrative, cleverly combining the palm leaf’s
boutique on Rue Saint-Honoré
symbol of peace and victory with David Morris’s worldwide reputation for creating fine jewellery with a
David Morris is a synonym of design for more that five
unique design twist.
decades. His creations and esthetics are of exceptional quality and he redefines in a unique way fine jewellery in
Rose Cut Forever
every single aspect. In the heart of historical Paris near Place Vendôme, at the centre of fine jewellery-making,
Born as a token of love in 2003, the Rose Cut collection is
lies Rue Saint-Honoré, a street of chic Parisian fashion and
a celebration of life: memorable events, happy moments,
on-trend luxury items. It is at this prestigious address that
a promise, an anniversary. But always a declaration of
David Morris, the London Jeweller, has chosen to launch
everlasting love. Launching in 2016, the new Rose Cut
its second European store, outside of its main home on
Forever collection is a bold and contemporary diffusion of
Bond Street in London.
its predecessor that builds upon and reinforces the
Established in London in 1962, and defined by an
original design concept.
avant-garde sense of sophistication, David Morris’
Whilst love might be unconditional and eternal, it takes
creations ooze glamour and refined quintessentially British
on many different forms, whether a fierce all-consuming
air. Fine craftsmanship is still incredibly important to the
passion or the sweet tenderness of a budding romance.
house and with a strong desire to delve deeper into the
Rose Cut Forever is the graceful reminder that love is a
visual aesthetic that represents it, the London Jeweller
multitude of different facets, like the eponymous
commissioned Franco-American designer Eugène Brunell
diamond, all to be cherished and embraced. It is
to capture the spirit of the brand and interpret it
reinforced by a graceful yet dramatic extension of the
architecturally in its debut Parisian residence located in
facets in the 18ct gold setting, each angled and polished
the city’s new luxury quarter.
to perfection.
Conceived as a sleek yet luxurious space, and laid out
The addition of the asymmetric halo of micro-set
over two inviting levels with a floor-to-ceiling glass façade,
diamonds that encompasses each piece symbolises the
the boutique’s contemporary design is in contrast to the
meaning of forever in the most simple of ways. A circle,
gold leaf, wood-panelled interiors of the London flagship.
with no beginning and no end. Continuous and timeless
With bespoke furnishings of light woods and burnt sienna
beauty.
leather, the setting perfectly reflects the glamour that
Named after its resemblance to the petals of a rose bud,
defines David Morris fine jewellery.
the rose-cut style forms the foundation of David Morris’s
In a pioneering move to redefine what fine jewellery
signature range of jewellery. Introduced early in 16th
means to a modern luxury society, and contrary to the
century India, the beauty of a rose-cut diamond lies in its
traditional belief held by jewellers that prized treasures
many facets, giving a translucent appearance.
are to be concealed behind closed doors, the innovative
Available in 18ct rose gold (white gold on request) and
brand briefed the designer to specifically focus on
with a starting price of £7,500, the collection comprises
creating an immersive experience for its clients. In its true
ten exclusive designs: single or double asymmetric rings
spirit of joyfulness and ‘bon-vivance’, David Morris tasked
and earrings, a cross-over bangle, sautoir necklace and
Brunell with creating an amiable space where clients, old
chain necklaces and bracelet.
and new, can comfortably peruse the jeweller’s nest
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Rose Cut Forever - rose gold & diamonds
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Rose Cut Faceting
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Rose Cut Forever - Original drawing
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Rose Cut Forever - rose gold & diamonds
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The David Morris flagship store in Paris
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creations in an equally as impressive location conveniently
| Haute Joaillerie The Doha flagship store
positioned outside the renowned Hôtel Costes. In order to achieve this, Brunell heightened the façade by
When we talk about David Morris we all know that he is
inclusion of vertical prismatic stripes in translucent copper,
internationally renowned for creating breathtaking
spanning both floors. Inside the boutique, floating stone
jewellery of flawless design, since the legacy of David
stairs lead to a VIP salon and the backlit handrail of the
Morris, the London Jeweller, is truly compelling.
staircase is made of the nest alabaster. These elements
Established over 50 years ago and family-owned for two
are fully revealed behind softly curved full-height extra
generations, David Morris is a jeweller of proud heritage
clear glass panels.
that has stayed true to its origins of creating fine jewellery
The east and west walls are upholstered with fabric made
with a creative design ‘twist’ and of utilising only the nest,
of metallic fibres, tinted copper and “chocolate” to add
most valuable gemstones in a glorious array of colours.
an extra sense of sumptuousness to the boutique. On the
Located on London’s fabled Bond Street, the flagship
east side, elongated oval mirrors straddle thin niches
boasts the rarity of an on-site atelier where artisans
highlighted by dramatic illuminations.
skillfully produce precious creations.
Alabaster floor-to-ceiling doors on the ground floor
Jeremy Morris took over the helm of David Morris from
conceal a facetted rock crystal lining inside their edges -
his father in 2003. Having studied fine art in London, with
visible only when the doors are opened adding an extra
5 years apprenticing with illustrious Place Vendôme
element of surprise for all those who enter the stunning
jewellers and a stint with an Antwerp diamond supplier,
boutique. is is perfectly complemented by full-length
Jeremy Morris was perfectly positioned to take over as
mirrors found on the backs of these doors, which are also
Managing Director and principal designer and steer the
revealed when in their opened position.
company into the new millennium. He believes that the
The furnishings are equally as impressive and one is able
attraction to David Morris jewellery lies not only in the
to appreciate just how much thought the British brand has
fabulous and original designs but also in the very gems
invested in its new aesthetic, ensuring that each and every
that are handpicked for each creation. His inspiration
detail of its most recent residence serves to immerse its
comes from all over the world and focuses on the beauty
clientele further into the David Morris brand and the
of the stones retaining their inherent character.
experience it conveys. For this reason, the idea of facets
In a very exciting year for David Morris, 2017 sees the
and reflections is echoed in the designs for the carpets,
February opening of a stand-alone boutique in The Pearl,
which are sprinkled with softly coloured crystal patterns. e
Doha with Middle East partners Ali Bin Ali. With
furniture includes pieces made with solid walnut, using
independent boutiques in the Dubai Mall, Dubai and the
traditional joinery techniques, as well as leather,
Galleria Mall, Abu Dhabi, this further enhances David
handcrafted patinated steel and some veneer details in
Morris’ presence in the region and comes after their
millenary marsh oak.
annual showing at the Doha Jewellery & Watches
Research was done to find special rose-tinted copper
Exhibition.
platings for the frames of the jewellery showcases as well
A six-day exhibition held annually in Doha, Qatar, this
as other architectural details, using a process that
show is amongst the most exclusive in the world for
employs gold to soften the tone of the copper.
connoisseurs to purchase fine jewellery and unique
Jeremy Morris, Managing Director of the London Jeweller
pieces. With this new boutique David Morris reaches his
said: “The aesthetic of our boutique in Paris was an
international customers and welcomes them in a unique
opportunity for us to create a new architectural
boutique designed to showcase the very best of the
environment for the brand, with a keen eye for detail and
internationally renowned brand. It creates a prestigious
a specific focus on the innovative use of fine materials and
salon that shows to us all the esthetics and the DNA of
colours, perfectly mimicking part of our own house’s
David Morris.
DNA.”
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The David Morris flagship store in Doha
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Haute Horlogerie
TWIST YOUR TIME T H E N E W S E R P E N T I B Y B V LG A R I
“The finest love stories are those that endure and are constantly reinvented. This is an art, a rare ability that is admirably mastered by la Femme who is brilliantly capable of handling such transformations. A hairstyle, a new garment, an accessory – and suddenly a woman becomes another while losing nothing of herself. In the animal kingdom, the serpent does likewise. A symbol of eternal regeneration, it constantly sheds its skin and takes on another, like the SERPENTI.”
B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R
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Twist your time! Dressed with karung and customizable
mother-of-pearl, finely lacquered and sunburst guilloché
without limits. the new way of wearing serpenti.
27mm dials. In a subtle jewellery detail setting a Bulgari signature, a cabochon-cut rubellite adorns the winding
The finest love stories are those that endure and
crown of these watches driven by quartz Calibre B033.
are constantly reinvented. This is an art, a rare ability that is admirably mastered by la Femme who is brilliantly
More than 300 variations for a unique Serpenti
capable of handling such transformations. A hairstyle, a new garment, an accessory – and suddenly a woman
In an ultimate touch of refinement, the client will
becomes another while losing nothing of herself. In the
also be able to choose her favourite case and dial, so as
animal kingdom, the serpent does likewise. A symbol of
to entirely personalize her Serpenti. Bulgari has
eternal regeneration, it constantly sheds its skin and takes
developed an app designed to facilitate the
on another, like the Serpenti.
customization process. Available in a selected number of
After interpreting the figure of the reptile in
brand boutiques, it will enable an enthusiast to literally
countless different ways, consistently at the crossroads
“compose” her personal Serpenti by means of this app
between goldsmithing and High Jewellery, Bulgari now
installed on a tablet, by choosing the case, dial, the
reaches beyond its customary universe to propel the
gemsetting and potentially the strap. The client will also
eternally youthful Serpenti towards a new field of
be able to have an engraving of her choice on the
expression, as the icon adopts double wrap-around straps
caseback. In all, the palette of combinations and colour
made from multicolour exotic leathers.
variations comprises a total of 312 variations, providing
A natural and legitimate continuation of the
plenty of scope to enable each woman to define her own
Serpenti saga, these new straps are made from Karung, a
Serpenti and make it virtually unique and always madly
non-venomous water snake whose particularly thin and
desirable.
supple skin features scales mid-way between those of a lizard or the more customary snake variation. Precious,
Serpenti changes things up with a beauty that is runs far more than skin deep: the love story lives on…
more original and more exclusive, it calls for a meticulous tanning process, after which the leather is extremely
The new SERPENTI TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
pleasant to wear, soft and smooth. On the surface, the colouring with natural pigments, in vivid, luminous shades
Case, dial and strap
and beautifully matching the dial colours, is further
Curved 27mm case in steel and pink gold, brilliant-cut
enhanced by a varnish lending a subtle gloss.
diamonds set on the bezel according to the versions, dials i n v a r i o u s c o l o u r v a r i a t i o n s , b l a c k l a c q u e re d ,
Instant metamorphosis
mother-of-pearl or sunburst guilloché depending on the versions, water-resistant to 50m.
This new contemporary version boldly flaunts its polyvalent nature. Ours is an age of speed and change.
Double wrap-around strap in Karung leather available in
Serpenti can be transformed in a heartbeat thanks to an
five different colours (black, red, white, green, chestnut
extremely practical fastening system making the straps
brown), easily interchangeable and fitted with a pin
easily interchangeable by the wearer on all models, those
buckle;
with a steel or pink gold case, with or without diamonds.
Double wrap-around calfskin strap available in six different
While each watch comes with two straps – in Karung or
colours (sapphire blue, agate white, ruby red, sandy
calfskin – in the client’s choice of colours, a wide range of
beige, black, emerald green).
additional shades is available on Bulgari boutiques, where the new Serpenti will be available as of May.
Movement
The nuances will be perfectly coordinated with the
Bulgari personalised B033 quartz movement.
colours – black, red, green or white – of the
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Jewels we
Love At the Jewellery Historian we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose, enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life, with jewellery, designed by the most talented jewellery designers.
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GUMUCHIAN
YOKO LONDON
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ILIAS LALAOUNIS
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GILAN
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2084, La fin du monde Boualem Sansal L’Abistan, immense empire, tire son nom du prophète Abi, «délégué» de Yölah sur terre. Son système est fondé sur l’amnésie et la soumission au dieu unique. Toute pensée personnelle est bannie, un système de surveillance omniprésent permet de connaître les idées et les actes déviants. Officiellement, le peuple unanime vit dans le bonheur de la foi sans questions. Le personnage central, Ati, met en doute les certitudes imposées. Il se lance dans une enquête sur l’existence d’un peuple de renégats, qui vit dans des ghettos, sans le recours de la religion… Boualem Sansal s’est imposé comme une des voix majeures de la littérature contemporaine. Au fil d’un récit débridé, plein d’innocence goguenarde, d’inventions cocasses ou inquiétantes, il s’inscrit dans la filiation d’Orwell pour brocarder les dérives et l’hypocrisie du radicalisme religieux qui menace les démocraties. 288 pages, Gallimard
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Article 353 du code pénal Tanguy Viel Pour avoir jeté à la mer le promoteur immobilier Antoine Lazenec, Martial Kermeur vient d'être arrêté par la police. Au juge devant lequel il a été déféré, il retrace le cours des événements qui l'ont mené là : son divorce, la garde de son fils Erwan, son licenciement et puis surtout, les miroitants projets de Lazenec. Il faut dire que la tentation est grande d'investir toute sa prime de licenciement dans un bel appartement avec vue sur la mer. Encore faut-il qu'il soit construit. Tanguy Viel est né à Brest en 1973. 176 pages, Éditions de Minuit
Loin du corps Léa Simone Allegria Adrienne vit parmi les œuvres du Musée du Louvre. Quand elle devient mannequin au hasard d’une rue de Paris, son monde s’inverse : de spectatrice du beau, elle devient objet. À la fois curieuse et sarcastique, elle fait du milieu de la mode son nouveau terrain d'investigation. Elle apprend à être muse. Comment apprivoiser son image ? À moins qu’elle ne soit qu’un reflet des désirs des autres. Une vague image qui l’éloigne de ses passions, de son identité, et même de son propre corps. Lea Simone Allegria a 29 ans. Loin du corps est son premier roman. 272 pages, Seuil
Retourner à la mer Raphaël Haroche Un colosse, vigile dans les salles de concert, et une strip-teaseuse, au ventre couturé de cicatrices, partagent une histoire d’amour… L’employé d’un abattoir sauve un veau de la mort et le laisse seul dans l’usine fermée pour le week-end. À sa sortie de l'hôpital, un homme part se reposer dans le Sud avec sa vieille maman. Trois adolescents livrés à eux-mêmes entendent un bruit inconnu qui pourrait bien être celui de la fin du monde. Tous ces personnages prennent vie en quelques phrases, suivent leur pente et se consument. Il suffit d’un contact, peau contre peau, d’un regard, d’une caresse, pour racheter l’humanité. Raphaël Haroche nous décrit dans un style fin et épuré les états d’âme d’êtres malmenés. Les questions qu’il pose au lecteur sont profondes, inattendues, parfois drôles ; elles sont toutefois traitées de telle manière que l’étrangeté ou le tragique touchent au poétique, au sensoriel. 176 pages, Gallimard
Vous êtes une maison d’édition et vous souhaitez faire découvrir vos auteurs francophones à nos lecteurs ? Veuillez nous contacter par courriel (info@jewelleryhistorian.com).
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RIVER
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Block Floral
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ADDRESS BOOK ARTISTAR JEWELLERY 2017
FABERGÉ
MATHON PARIS
www.artistarjewels.com
www.faberge.com
www.mathon-paris.com
BORGIONI
GALLIMARD
METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
www.borgionis.com
www.gallimard.fr
www.metmuseum.org
BOUCHERON
GRAND PALAIS
PICCHIOTTI
www.boucheron.com
www.grandpalais.fr
www.picchiotti.it
BULGARI
GILAN
SOTHEBY’S
www.bulgari.com
www.gilan.com
www.sothebys.com
BUTANI
GUMUCHIAN
YOKO LONDON
www.butani.com
www.gumuchian.com
www.yokolondon.com
CARRERA Y CARRERA
HARRY KOTLAR
www.carreraycarrera.com
www.harrykotlar.com
DAVID MORRIS
ILIAS LALAOUNIS
www.davidmorris.com
www.iliaslalaounis.eu
DJULA
L´DEZEN BY PAYAL SHAH
www.djula.fr
www.ldezen.com
DINNY HALL
LE VIAN
www.dinnyhall.com
www.levian.com
ÉDITIONS DE MINUIT
LYDIA COURTEILLE
www.leseditionsdeminuit.fr
www.lydiacourteille.com
ÉDITIONS SEUIL
ORNELLA IANNUZZI
www.seuil.com
www.ornella-iannuzzi.com
ENTICE
MAGERIT JOYAS
www.entice.in
www.mageritjoyas.com
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