Jewellery Historian #27

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

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HOLIDAYS

27 THE

BEST

KEPT

SECRET

IN

THE

WORLD

OF

LUXYRY

JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN Born in Morocco, Julien Riad Sahyoun he launched his London-based jewellery brand in 2016. Discover a true ode to humanity.

LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

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Discover the amazing new collections created by GUCCI. Exceptional fine jewellery and amazing timepieces.

MICHO KOIDE

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Michio Koide is a jewelry designer and also an artist based in Japan.

In this issue, we invite you to discover a unique perspective, a different artistic vision and an amazing artist.

STÉPHANIE CACHARD

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Stéphanie Cachard grew up in Beirut. Born into a family of jewellers she came to understand the secret of jewellery design and craftsmanship from a very young age. In this issue she unveils her latest collection Astrale, joining her three other ranges.

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CONTENTS

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A T H E N S

211 4007882 www.qbee.gr

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com

FOUNDER | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) ASSOCIATE EDITOR | Christina Rodopoulou

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CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE | Panayiotis Simopoulos GEMOLOGY EDITOR | Eva Kountouraki, G.G (GIA)

COVER | AS Inc. /Shutterstock

PARTNERS | Martin Huynh, Catherine Varoucha, COLUMNISTS | Panayota Vraka, Lara van Schaik, G.G (GIA) CREATIVE | Jewellery Historian PRODUCTION | Jewellery Historian PHOTO AGENCIES | Shutterstock, iStock, Unsplash GRAPHIC DESIGN | Jewellery Historian ADVERTISING | Jewellery Historian WEB | www.jewelleryhistorian.com E-MAIL | info@jewelleryhistorian.com

Made in the European Union Printed copies available exclusively by Print of Demand JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2017

All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine.

Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only.

Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies.

The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CONTENTS | ISSUE 26

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MORPHÉE

BULGARI

Designer Pamela Hastry celebrates an ancient art that has, throughout time, been the privileged witness of our lives. She transcends reality, anecdotes, memories; and transposes them as limited edition jewelry pieces.

Discover Serpenti Incantati. This highly exclusive and very rare Haute Horlogerie model is a precious watch that remains as appealing as ever.

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BOUCHERON

LAPIS LAZULI

Frédéric Boucheron was a visionary jeweler. His collections always displayed leading-edge forms, innovative techniques, and gemstones with character. In this issue discover seven diamonds with exceptional colors.

Eva Kountouraki, head gemology editor of the Jewellery Historian, introduces us to the breathtaking beauty of lapis lazuli.

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BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES

JEWELS FOR EVERY WISHLIST

A hallmark that finds its inspiration in history and nature; design, colour and the highest quality materials blend together to give life to unique and memorable pieces, dreams and created by Italian-Design.

Just in time for the holidays, Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Fine Jewels auctions will be held in New York on 5 & 7 December 2017.

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REDEFINING BOUNDARIES

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UDOZZO creates jaw-dropping, exclusive and limited pieces of fine jewellery for the modern gentleman and the sophisticated lady of today.

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SHOWCASE Previously known as OUR FAVES, this new column is a window to a new world of craftsmanship, beauty and creativity. Discover amazing jewellery and timepieces and a unique new experience.

M E D I A PA RT N E R S

EDITOR’S LETTER

B

eauty is not about prettiness, it is about successful communication. There are plenty of pretty images surrounding us, available in our lives ; but these we might not refer to as beautiful; and it is not difficult to find works of artistic expression that we might agree are beautiful that are not necessarily pretty. Beauty is rather a measure of affect,

a measure of emotion.

According to Jakobson, any act of verbal communication is composed of six factors and each factor has a function, that operates between the message and the factor. A context (referential function), an addresser (emotive function), an addressee (conative function), a contact between an addresser and addressee (phatic function), a common code (metalingual function) and a message (poetic function).

Few days ago, I was doing a presentation and while I was talking, a person from the audience verbally attacked me for something I said. She couldn’t understand, she didn’t want to understand, the difference between a legend and a myth. She was speaking very loud, while I was trying to explain to her that while these words are commonly used interchangeably, historically and academically there is a difference. The communication was not successful.

If everyone were to have the same experiences, all messages would be encoded, transmitted, and decoded alike.

However, people differ in their personal histories, ways in

which they experience things, and emotional responses, leading to differences in the ways in which communications are encoded, transmitted, received, and understood. We are all different and this is the beauty of life.

In the context of art, beauty is the gauge of successful communication between participants – between the artist (addresser) and the perceiver (addressee). Beautiful art is the one that had a successful communication. But neither the artist nor the observer can be certain for this, because art, like beauty, is eternally subjective.

We can’t judge if art is beautiful. We are not able because our experiences are different, because we are not open to innovation, to new ideas and things but mainly because we do not all wish to have a successful communication. The next time you see art remember to be open to experience a successful communication. Open your heart and mind to diversity, try to welcome new perspectives, new visions and new ideas. Try to understand that we are all different. Don’t judge what you do not understand. Accept that we all have a different perspective on life.

FOUNDER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JEWELLERY HISTORIAN MAGAZINE

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GUCCI Les Merveilles dionysiaques Page 9

Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

GUCCI

Les Merveilles dionysiaques

Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci is one of

paired with the matching Dionysus watch for a

the world’s leading luxury fashion brands, with

layered look.

a renowned reputation for creativity, innovation and Italian craftsmanship. Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in

THE DIONYSUS WATCH: AN ELEGANT BLEND OF PRECIOUS MATERIALS

apparel and accessories that owns a portfolio

Gucci Timepieces is expanding the Dionysus

of powerful luxury, sports and lifestyle brands.

collection with a new gold watch. With its

At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to introduce you the latest GUCCI collections, recently presented by the iconic brand.

striking silhouette and elegant mix of precious natural materials, this 23mm model is designed to be worn as a watch or as an accessory.

DIONYSUS

The two feline heads snake their way around

The Dionysus collection is composed by four

an 18kt carved yellow gold case, encrusted

jewelry pieces crafted from a mix of precious

with four tsavorite stones that sparkle in rich

materials.

green hues. The back of the case is engraved

With a drop-shaped silhouette, the earrings showcase the Dionysus motif in 18kt yellow gold, accented with diamonds (0.2ct), green enamel, and tsavorite (1.45ct) and, also

with Gucci’s bee motif, while the inside of the18kt carved yellow gold bangle is punctuated with delicate green enamel decorations.

featuring the Dionysus motif, the necklace in

Shimmering in white tones, the mother of

18kt yellow gold is embellished with green

pearl dial is finished with yellow gold-colored

enamel and tsavorite (0.16ct) and measures

hands, the Gucci logo at 12 o’clock.

70cm.

This exquisitely crafted watch can either be

Two cuff bracelets complete the collection.

worn solo, or combined with matching items

Each one displays three interlocking tiger

from the Dionysus jewelry collection to create

heads in 18kt yellow gold with eyes in

extra impact.

tsavorite (0.18ct). Decorated with green enamel around the inner edge, the on-trend

NEW GG RUNNING RANGE

open silhouette of these cuffs combines easily

Offering a fresh new interpretation of the GG

with other styles. The slimmer cuff can also be

logo, the GG Running collection sees its fine

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Dionysus Fine Jewelry collection

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Dionysus Fine Jewelry collection

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

Dionysus Fine Jewelry collection

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

Dionysus Watch

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

jewelry line now even more contemporary

creations are unexpectedly embellished by

and playful. The clean lines and vibrant colors

small golden skulls.

of this latest GG Running range are shown in delicate chain necklaces, stackable or single rings, extra-long or stud earrings and sleek bangles.

Gucci craftsmen take their expertise to new heights as they realize the elegant Flora earrings and rings in vivid rainbow hues, creating a multi-colored effect with dazzling

The new assortment of pieces is all worked in

green tsavorite, purple amethyst and yellow

warm 18kt yellow, pink or white gold and

sapphires.

adorned with diamonds or joyously colored gemstones. The ensemble of colored variants pops with sparkling precious stones in bright hues of orange, pink, yellow and blue.

Stackable rings are adorned with the GG

Finally, a selection of rings, earrings and necklaces show the Flora motifs take on an opulent mood, featuring sophisticated white tones of gold, diamonds and mother of pearl.

motif in vividly colored precious gemstones,

Relevant and modern, the full Gucci Flora line

giving an eclectic touch to the recognizable

includes pendant necklaces, earrings and

double G motif. A youthful mood is seen in a

rings.

selection of single earrings studded with tsavorite, topaz, amethyst or citrine which confirms the modern feel of this vibrant line.

GUCCI JEWELRY ADDS NEW PIECES TO ICON COLLECTION

Diamonds complete the collection: a dainty

With its intricate craftsmanship, use of warm

chain bracelet and street-style rings are set

gold, floral motifs and Italian enameling

with diamonds, and long earrings shimmer

techniques, Gucci Jewelry’s Icon collection

with a cascade of diamonds.

draws inspiration from the Renaissance era, a

GUCCI FLORA FINE JEWELRY BLOSSOMS WITH ARTISTRY

period that has greatly inspired the House's new creative aesthetic. The line has now been extended with a new series of delicately

Graceful and delicate, the Gucci Flora Fine Jewelry line continues to explore new ways of working with precious stones. The refined flowers, hallmark of this range, marry intricate gold-smithing techniques with painterly designs and bold flower forms to create necklaces, earrings and rings. Fresh combinations of mother of pearls, diamonds and colored gemstones bring a new allure to these timeless flora motifs; the line includes

crafted blossom-themed pieces.

The first ensemble comprises an open-cuff bangle, delicate necklace and ring. Here, the decorative Icon flower and leaf design is accented with blue and white enameling, set against a blue and black enamel background.

Of particular note are the beading and curlicues that create a graceful trim along the ring and bangle.

three color styles: shades of white and blue,

Two further ensembles, made up of a

dazzling rainbow hues or a regal ensemble in

pendant necklace and two styles of matching

a palette of white and cream. Many of these

earrings, are offered in yellow or white gold

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GG Running Fine Jewelry collection

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GG Running Fine Jewelry collection

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GG Running Fine Jewelry collection

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GG Running Fine Jewelry collection

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GG Running Fine Jewelry collection

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

Gucci Flora Fine Jewelry collection

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Gucci Flora Fine Jewelry collection

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

Icon Jewelry collection

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

Icon Jewelry collection

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

with white enamel. The yellow gold necklace

topaz, black spinels and pearls, and glow with

variant comes with an extra-long 80 cm chain,

golden yellow citrine quartz, opulent purple

for an urban look. Two further necklaces are

and crimson rubies. Grey diamonds and

available as stand-alone pieces, in yellow or

pearls bring a sophisticated shine.

pink gold, with white enameled details.

Full of wit and imagination, these new

Across the entire collection, the delicate leaf

additions exude character and creativity,

and flower designs are interwoven with the

especially when mixed together in a bold,

recognizable ‘GG’ motif. Italian master

beautiful medley.

goldsmiths have carefully realized all the Icon pieces, infusing an aura of timeless craftsmanship into this charming line.

LE MARCHÉ DES MERVEILLES COLLECTION CELEBRATES THE FELINE MOTIF

LE MARCHÉ DES MERVEILLES – SECRET WATCH IN GOLD Gucci has added a new 22mm Secret watch to the colorful and eclectic Le Marché des Merveilles collection. Discreetly hiding the dial, the rotating feline head is the focus of

Among the most eclectic and audacious

this high-end timepiece, which mixes

Gucci jewelry collections, the Le Marché des

precious materials with the mystery of time.

Merveilles range is reminiscent of a curiosity cabinet, overflowing with intriguing animal emblems and precious stones. Gucci adds beautiful new pieces to the collection and continues to explore the animalier world by placing the feline head motif center stage.

The pieces are intricately crafted from 18kt gold, aged silver and precious stones, showcasing House's exquisite craftsmanship and creativity.

The new gold edition offers a modern and contemporary interpretation of the traditional ‘secret watch’ concept that showcases a carved antique 18kt yellow gold case set with two diamonds (0.146ct) to represent the animal’s eyes. The feline head slides to one side to reveal a white mother of pearl dial with antique gold-colored hands. This elegant mix of materials is highlighted by a black lizard skin strap, finished with a yellow

This new collection spans a selection of pieces that feature a tiger’s head either as a precious gem-studded pendant, a statement r i n g , s t u d ea r r i n g s , a b a n g l e o r a n oriental-style hand bracelet. The collection includes different themes and pairings of precious stones, from a dramatic white and green colorway with diamonds and tsavorite

gold ardillon buckle.

Demonstrating Gucci’s signature attention to detail, the watch features a pearl on the crown and the house’s bee motif engraved on the back of the case. The dial displays the Gucci logo at 12 o’clock and the ‘Swiss Made’ label at 6 o’clock.

to a colorful composition of orange, red and blue sapphires. The tiger heads are rendered dark and dramatic through the use of paraiba

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES

Le Marché des Merveilles Secret Watch

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Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection

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Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection

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Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection

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Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection

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Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection

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Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

MICHIO KOIDE The soul of an artist B Y C AT H E R I N E VA RO U C H A

Michio Koide is a jewelry designer and also an artist based in Japan.

He designs jewelry so that his work bring great p l ea s u re a n d p o w e r t o p e o p l e j u s t l i ke

In his childhood, his grandfather would often make traditional Japanese wood carving. He grew up looking at this grandfather. This influenced him and is visible in his art.

Michelangeloʼs David has been doing so. He has designed several jewelries for celebrities in Japanʼs various fields. He got attention as Japanʼs First Lady, Akie Abe, wore his pendant. [One of his most famous work was dedicated for Japanʼs First Lady,

To understand his work, you must know the

Akie Abe.]

beauty of amazing Japanese calligraphy, as this is very visible in his work.

He has been at work adopting traditional Japanese beauty since her pendant. His exhibition

Kohei Okamoto is one of the most famous

has been held in Paris and New York.

calligraphers in Japan who is famous for giving calligraphy lecture in the Yale University in the U.S.

When you look the Pavlina pendant you see his passion for art. This pendant was originally a

The Chinese character of “SO”, which Kohei

painting called “The Female-Christ” by an artist

Okamoto wrote for jewelry, has the meaning to

living in Switzerland and was transformed into

“create”. This is the jewerly that arranged this

jewelry by a jewelry designer, Michio Koide.

calligraphy of “SO”.

Pavlina is an artist living in Switzerland who

One of Kohei Okamoto’s philosophy is that

won such as ”Prix europeen francophone des Arts

“calligraphy is the fusion of contrast such as

LeopoldSedar Senghor” in Paris in 2005. Her

strong-weak, thick-thin and sparse-dense”.

artworks that combine fantasy and realism are

This jewelry was made with such philosophy.

Also, it expresses the way ink splashes and drops by gold and diamond.

highly evaluated. Based on the painting of Pavlina, new “The Female-Christ” was created using expressions unique to jewelry such as the jewel and the texture of polish.

Connection from monochrome world to bimetallic world was done by the creativity unique to humans.

Yu Otuka, a gallerist and the common acquaintance of the two, cooperated to this collaboration and the process was done through

The reason he started design and art in earnest

letters and emails.

was Michelangeloʼs masterpiece in a collection book. Michelangeloʼs David has been inspiring people all over the world as Art has such marvelous power.

Created jewelry was a wearable “artwork” that has luxurious factor such as the allure of jewel and the texture of precious metal in addition to fantastical image of the painting. These two “The

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

Female-Christ” should send message to people’s souls.

As keyword for Japanese art, there are “WABI-SABI”, “BOKASI (gradation)” and

When he creates jewelry, there is one thing he makes point of. That is Japanese traditional beauty of his home country.

Though Japanese art is well-known to the world for such as “Hokusai”, he didn’t have particular interest in it at first. He started

“YOHAKU (blank space)”. Michio Koide tries to apply such factors in his own jewelry and artwork.

Ms GOD is the jewelry brand of the designer, Michio Koide. The name, Ms GOD, means something like the Goddess.

creation with influence from Michelangelo so at first, he was

interested in the beauty of

curved line of Art Nouveau and Renaissance.

Ms GOD is different from other brand in that clients participate to design. Clients do not only purchase a product. They have to

But one day, when he saw a poster in a small bookstore, he started to realize Japanese traditional art.

choose jewelry and motif of animal and plants and actively participate to the entire design process as if they themselves are the jewelry designers. For motif, there are various

It was in Paris he visited for his individual exhibition. He was staying at Bellville, the

marks such as tiger and rose designed by the designer.

downtown of Paris. The town was filled with art, animated with people of various nationalities and was very stimulating.

Clients ponders a lot in order to create their own jewelry and it takes more than a few months to complete. However, the joy of

When he was walking around the town of

finishing creation of the jewelry is bigger. The

Bellville, he happened to find a bookstore in

jewelry made in such way may be called an

which an old Japanese dragon poster was on

artwork rather than a product.

the wall. He was surprised and moved by the fact that an old Japanese painting exists in such a far away town in a foreign country.

Michio Koide is an exceptional artist. At the Jewellery Historian we believe that Jewellery is Art and his jewellery is true art.

That was the moment he realized the value of Japanese art.

When there was no Internet yet, Japan was the county who hardly got influenced by other country by its geographical situation surrounded by the ocean. That is why a unique culture developed in Japan.Also, the fact that four seasons are clearly marked in Japan affected its culture.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

“So” means creation. Calligraphy by Kohey Okamoto

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

A work inspired from calligraphy

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

A work inspired from calligraphy

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

Japanese calligraphy

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

The Pavlina pendant

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

The Tiger ring

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

Peacock pendant

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST

Treillage Multi-Coloured Rose Gold Bangle

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introducing

Stéphanie Cachard Page 45

Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

introducing

Stéphanie Cachard Stéphanie Cachard grew up in Beirut. She

Doux (2012), Little Dot (2014), Flore (2015),

was born into a family of jewellers and was

Céleste (2016), and the most recent, Astrale

immersed in the industry thanks to her family’s

(2017), all based on simplified oriental patterns

j e w e l l e r y at e l i e r, w h e re s h e c a m e t o

and geometrical minimal lines.

understand the secret of jewellery design and craftsmanship from a very young age.

This season sees Beirut based jeweller Stéphanie Cachard unveil her latest collection

She went on to study a Masters Degree and graduated from the Lebanese University of

Astrale, joining her three other ranges, Little Dots, Flore and Céleste.

Fine Arts (ALBA) in 2008. In 2009, she joined the family jewellery business, where she developed her skills in traditional metalsmithing techniques, before earning a diploma in diamond grading from the renowned GIA School in Florence in 2010.

The range of exquisite yellow, white and rose 18kt gold and silver rings and bracelets in the Little Dots collection, were inspired by traditional Arabic calligraphy, by extracting a single and essential element of the Arabic script : the dot.

In 2014 she launched her own eponymous brand, and set up her showroom in the heart of Beirut. Stéphanie uses 18KT gold and sterling silver in her collections, and all of her pieces are designed and presented as singular modules allowing several combinations. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted in Beirut by local artisans using responsibly sourced precious metals and stones.

uses one, two or three dots to punctuate some of its letters. As a result, it ends up consisting of 28 letters, while using only 17 basic characters for their main shape. Therefore, many letters in the Arabic alphabet have a similar basic shape, but are distinguished from one another by these dots. The purpose behind this collection is to showcase the economy of design and the

Stéphanie’s influence behind her jewellery is the drawing of the Arabic letter.

As Stephanie explains “Arabic calligraphy

As

subtlety that lies in the drawing of an Arabic letter.”

Stéphanie explains, Arabic calligraphy uses one, two or three dots to punctuate some of its letters. As a result, it ends up consisting of 28 letters, while using only 17 basic characters for their main shape. Therefore, many letters in the Arabic alphabet have a similar basic shape, but

These square shaped rings set the tone for the 3 following collections: “Flore” (2015), “Céleste” (2016), and “Astrale” (2017), all based on simplified oriental patterns and geometrical minimal lines.

are distinguished from one another by these dots.

Stéphanie’s collections have evolved over the past five years starting with Des Mots

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

3 pétales Ring , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 300$, 18K gold/silver 210$ 2 pétales Rings , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 250$, 18K gold/silver 190$ Page 47

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Céleste M Earrings , All earrings are designed for pierced ears and are fastened at the back with a handmade 18K gold square.

Available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and silver/18K gold , 18K gold 650$, 18K gold/silver 300$ Page 48

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Céleste M Earrings , All earrings are designed for pierced ears and are fastened at the back with a handmade 18K gold square.

Available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and silver/18K gold , 18K gold 650$, 18K gold/silver 300$ Page 49

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

1.4 + 2.4 Bracelet , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold 18K gold 900$

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3 pétales Ring , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 300$, 18K gold/silver 210$ Page 51

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

1.4 + 2.4 Bracelet , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold 18K gold 900$ Page 52

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

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Céleste D Bracelet , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold 18K gold 690$ Page 54

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Céleste D Bracelet , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold 18K gold 690$ Page 55

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

1.3, 1.4 Rings , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver 18K gold 250$, 18K gold/diamonds 430$, 18K gold/silver 170$ , 1.4 18K gold 330$, 1.4 18K gold/diamonds 680$, 1.4 18K gold/silver 210$ Page 56

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

1.3 Rings , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver 18K gold 250$, 18K gold/diamonds 430$ , 18K gold/silver 170$ Page 57

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

3 pétales Ring , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 300$, 18K gold/silver 210$ 2 pétales Rings , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 250$, 18K gold/silver 190$ Page 58

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Céleste XS, S Earrings , Available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and silver/18K gold XS 18K gold 320$, XS 18K gold/silver 170$ , S 18K gold 440$, S 18K gold/silver 210$ Page 59

Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Céleste M Earrings , All earrings are designed for pierced ears and are fastened at the back with a handmade 18K gold square.

Available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and silver/18K gold , 18K gold 650$, 18K gold/silver 300$ Page 60

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES

UDOZZO Redefining boundaries Page 61

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES

UDOZZO Redefining boundaries UDOZZO creates jaw-dropping, exclusive and limited pieces of fine jewellery for the

Bold. Innovative. Beautiful. Impressive.

Crazy? Sometimes.

modern gentleman and the sophisticated lady of today.

The tools that UDOZZO artisans and craftsmen use are the extension of their hands.

B re a t h - t a k i n g d i a m o n d b ra c e l e t s , stunning diamond cocktail and statement rings for him and her, Cufflinks refined with the finest diamonds and made of 18k Gold. All of that combined with the highest mastery of craftsmanship, design and boldness.

UDOZZO is proud to be part of VON URBANOVSKY, a family-owned group of high luxury companies with a heritage dating back to 1718.

Every UDOZZO piece is made by hand, using methods that have proven to stand the tests of time. They take time and do not rush things. Because perfection does not happen overnight.

Their passion, character and soul shows in everything we do. From the first ideas, sketches and drafts to the creation of a unique piece of fine jewellery, their heritage and values guide our path to perfection.

W i t h f a m i l y ro o t s f ro m G e r m a n y, Czechoslovakia, Russia and Hungary, UDOZZO is passionate about creating unique pieces of fine jewellery that inspires the modern lady and gentleman.

UDOZZO creations are admired around the world. But only a few are able to wear it.

Our editor-in-chief is a fan of UDOZZO for years and you can often see him wearing UDOZZO creations.

Over the years UDOZZO has received raving feedback from its customers about its exceptional pieces of fine jewellery.

At UDOZZO they firmly believe that every piece of jewellery has a soul. And that jewellery is the expression of your own soul.

UDOZZO and the Von Urbanovsky group is re-defining the boundaries and profound principles of true high luxury in a modern, digital world with savvy, confident and stylish customers.

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It’s time to find your soulmate.

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JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN An Ode to Humanity Page 85

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN An Ode to Humanity B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

Born in Morocco, Julien Riad Sahyoun

and was inspired to create something that

discovered a passion for rocks and gems as

he was proud of, whilst also leaving a lasting

a child: after studying gemology at the world

impression for the world to see. It was at this

prestigious GIA, he launched his

point that Sahyoun began to create his

London-based jewellery brand in 2016.

artistic vision, and after completing the

“As a child in Morocco, I discovered I was happiest digging for treasure; I collected little rocks, fossils and gems. My family would take me on amazing fishing and hunting trips, but I much preferred to dig for stones: I loved being close to the earth and collecting beautiful things. The area south of Casablanca was the best place to dig and I

course in New York, he moved to California to study Applied Jewellery Art at the GIA Headquarters. It was in California that Sahyoun honed skills in design, carving, mould making and casting – skills that would be invaluable to the creation of his own jewellery later on. Sahyoun took up a job in Biarritz after graduating from GIA.

can still picture myself as a boy with my little

Co m p l e t e c reat i v e f re e d o m w a s

hammer, digging all day. I kept my rocks in

something that Sahyoun strongly desired

boxes and around my room until we moved

after being so constrained during his brief

house and they were thrown away. I was

time in his family’s business, and hence after

heartbroken, but I was at an age where

shown his designs at IJL, an international

things were changing and I put those days of

jewellery exhibition in London, he felt that

collecting beautiful things behind me.” Such

London was the best place to launch his new

a passion has most definitely infiltrated

and innovate brand. Julien Riad Sahyoun

Sahyoun’s collections, with a keen focus on

London launched during Fashion Week in

individuality and precious stones being seen

September 2016, with three collections

throughout.

inspired by unity, individuality and nature.

Sahyoon spent a brief time working for the family business in charge of heavy machinery, before making the bold decision to leave and study at the Gemological Institute of America in New York, a decision

Sahyoun wanted his jewellery to tell stories and bring people together, whilst allowing him to relive the passion he want felt as a child. The brand is a fulfilment of a passion that started in childhood, and never left.

that was supported by his family. Aged only

Today, he continues to travel the globe

25, Sahyoon was living alone in New York,

i n s e a rc h o f i n s p i r a t i o n . E x q u i s i t e ,

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

entrancing, and elemental, each piece of

Julien adds about the collection, “The

jewellery is inspired by the organic forms of

use of a bullet shape was important to help

nature.

alter connotations that always attach

Julien is driven by a desire to unite humanity and leave a positive footprint on the world. Created with his signature integrity, intuition, and instinct each piece of JRS jewellery bears the hallmarks of their creator. Delicately detailed and imagined in finely wrought craftsmanship, they deliver a

themselves to bullets. Each Bullet Peace has been damaged in order to show that although people may be challenged, they cannot be broken. I have engraved the word ‘PEACE’ in 8 languages at the point of the bullet, along with Leila’s initials and the date ‘15.1’, inscribed at the base”.

heartfelt message to be remembered for generations to come.

He finishes by saying, “I hope all that wear the Bullet Peace collection do so as a

In 2016 tragically Lelia Alaoui was killed

symbol of hope and anti-terrorism”.

in a Burkina Faso terror attack, she was

Each gold model of the Bullet Peace is a

fatefully wounded and died after being shot

limited and numbered edition of 333. Prices

by a jihadi gunman in Ouagadougou. She

begin at £270 to £999.

was working on an assignment for women’s rights in Burkina Faso for the UN Women and Amnesty International. The beautiful French-Moroccan photographer and video artist’s work on refugees was been exhibited globally, and featured in the likes of New York Times and Vogue.

When I first saw his work I immediately fell in love. When I see his work I am immediately thinking of what Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the famous French author said « La perfection est atteinte, non pas lorsqu’il n’y a plus rien à ajouter, mais lorsqu’il n’y a plus rien à retirer. » (Perfection is achieved,

In tribute to his dear friend Lelia and to

not when there is nothing more to add, but

help ensure her important work lives on,

when there is nothing left to take away.). The

Julien has designed a jewellery collection

work of Julien Riad Sahyoun is not only the

entitled ‘Bullet Peace’, with all proceeds are

work of a talented designer but the work of

going to Found Lelia Alaoui

an exceptional artist.

(http://www.fondationleilaalaoui.org) and a selection of charities that provide aid to children in conflict zones,

I am proud to introduce Julien to all our readers, because I am sure that he has lot of amazing jewellery to create in the future,

Julien Riad Sayou says, “Bullet Peace is

many dreams to offer to us all.

probably my most personal collection, the creation process was bittersweet, knowing Lelia has gone, but that I could help in some small way help create change and unification across cultures around the globe”.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

3ternity trio

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

The designer with his models

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3ternity

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

Sunrise diamond pendant

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

Cinta Diamond bracelet

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3ternity ring - 333∞Rd

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

Sunrise Earrings

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

3ternity ring

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

Sun bracelet

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Sunrise earrings

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Just Rebel Star Touch Me

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Dusha Skin Diamond ring

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

Edgy Skin diamond bracelet

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

Yi diamond Skin ring

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Bullet Peace Page 107

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Just Rebel Star Touch Me

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY

Skinny Co trio

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Bullet Peace Page 110

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Ami Large Skin ring

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Ami Skin ring

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Skinny Ring

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

JEWELS FOR EVERY WISHLIST AT SOTHEBY’S Just in time for the holidays, Sotheby’s

Magnificent Jewels sale offers a variety of

Magnificent Jewels and Fine Jewels auctions

vibrant rubies, emeralds and sapphires,

will be held in New York on 5 & 7 December

including an important group of sapphire

2017. Both sales feature a wonderful variety of

jewels by Harry Winston and Van Cleef &

vintage and contemporary pieces by

Arpels from a Distinguished Family Collection.

renowned houses including Van Cleef &

The bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, set with

Arpels, Tiffany & Co., JAR, and Harry Winston

fiv e s p e c t a c u l a r s u g a r l o a f c a b o c h o n

alongside significant gemstones of superlative

sapphires, is a particular standout, with Art

quality. The Magnificent Jewels sale is led by

Deco pieces of this caliber being exceedingly

an exquisite 5.69-Carat Fancy Vivid Blue

rare. Further highlights from this incredible

Diamond Ring (estimate $12/15 million) and

Collection include a rare pair of Burmese

an extremely rare 110.92-Carat Round

sapphire and diamond earclips by Harry

Diamond - the largest round diamond ever to

Winston weighing 20+ carats each, a dazzling

be offered at auction (estimate $4.2/6.2

sapphire and diamond necklace-bracelet

million). All works from both sales will be on

combination by Harry Winston and a

public exhibition in our York Avenue galleries

23.38-carat sugarloaf cabochon sapphire ring

from 30 November – 7 December, highlighting

by Van Cleef & Arpels.

our inaugural A Life of Luxury auction series.

We welcome seasoned and aspiring collectors to visit us, speak with a specialist, and try on the entire selection.

Catharine Becket, Head of Magnificent J e w e l s , N e w Yo r k c o m m e n t e d : “ Th i s December, we’re pleased to present the inaugural Icons series in our Magnificent

Gary Schuler, Chairman of Sotheby’s

Jewels sale. The pieces to be featured possess

Jewelry Division, Americas commented:

a compelling variety of characteristics: rarity,

“We’re thrilled to present supreme examples

authorship, provenance and, above all, iconic

of the world’s most sought-after jewels and

design. It is an ideal collection of our very own

gemstones this season, led by the stunning

creation, one that represents connoisseurship

Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring and the

and celebrates the best jewels and jewelers

110.92-carat Round Diamond. Greatly

from the early twentieth century to today.

admired for their rarity, these are gems that

Highlights include a classic double-headed

are enthusiastically pursued by collectors and

diamond and onyx-studded panther bracelet

connoisseurs.”

by Cartier, a vintage ‘Serpenti’ watch by

For those looking to add impressive colored stones to their collections, the

Bulgari, and masterfully-rendered brooch by JAR.”

Left page : Lot 302, Property From A Private Collection, Diamond, Onyx and Emerald 'Double Panther' Bracelet, Cartier, France Estimate $275/375,000 Page 116

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Whether gifting to yourself or a loved

collectors the resources of Sotheby’s

one, our Fine Jewels sale has fashionable

Financial Services, the world’s only full-service

baubles for every price point, style and

art financing company, as well as the

occasion. Featuring classic diamond rings,

collection advisory services of its subsidiary,

whimsical brooches and elegant dress sets by

Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents

highly coveted makers such as Cartier, David

private sale opportunities in more than 70

Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels and Schlumberger,

categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of

the sale truly has something for everyone on

Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two

your list this holiday season. Notable lots

retail businesses, Sotheby’s Diamonds and

include a 12.92 carat Diamond Ring mounted

Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global

by Cartier (estimate $100/150,000), a Pair of

network of 80 offices in 40 countries and is

Emerald and Diamond

the oldest company listed on the New York

Earclips from the collection of Sir Sean

Stock Exchange (BID).

and Lady Michelle Connery (estimate $50/70,000), and a Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet from Oscar Heyman & Brothers (estimate $35/55,000).

Following the launch of our exclusive Luxury & Lifestyle Division this past spring, Sotheby’s New York is holding an inaugural week of sales and events from 30 November to 7 December, during which we will offer the very best examples of Jewelry, Watches, Cars, Wine and Fashion.

Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744.

Sotheby’s became the first international auction house when it expanded from London to New York (1955), the first to conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India (1992) and France (2001), and the first international fine art auction house in China (2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in 10 different salesrooms, including New York, London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s BidNow program allows visitors to view all auctions live online and place bids from anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers

*Estimates do not include buyer’s premium. Prices achieved include the hammer price plus buyer’s premium and are net of any fees paid to the purchaser where the purchaser provided an irrevocable bid.

Right page : Lot 312, Gold, Diamond and Emerald 'Serpenti' Bracelet-Watch, Bulgari, Estimate $200/300,000

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Lot 161, Pair of Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Earrings Suspending two oval-shaped Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds weighing 5.99 and 5.45 carats, SI1 clarity Estimate $1/1.5 million Page 119

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Lot 179, Highly Important Fancy Intense Orangy Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring Weighing 5.24 carats, VS2 clarity Estimate $1.8/2.2 million Page 120

Lot 184, Property Of A Distinguished Private Collector, Magnificent Diamond Ring Weighing 14.01 carats, D color, VVS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless Estimate $1.5/2.5 million Page 121

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Lot 211, From the Collection of a Lady, Exquisite Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring Set with an emerald-cut Fancy Vivid Blue diamond weighing 5.69 carats, VVS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless Estimate $12/15million Page 122

Lot 185, Property of a Distinguished Private Collector, Highly Important Ruby and Diamond Ring Weighing 15.01 carats Estimate $2.5/3.5 million Page 123

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Lot 183, Property of a Distinguished Private Collector, Exceptional Emerald and Diamond Ring, Carvin French Set with a square emerald-cut emerald weighing 8.01 carats Estimate $650/850,000 Page 124

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Lot 303, Property Of A Gentleman, Diamond and Green Garnet Brooch, JAR, Paris Estimate $450/650,000

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Lot 302, Property From A Private Collection, Diamond, Onyx and Emerald 'Double Panther' Bracelet, Cartier, France Estimate $275/375,000 Page 126

Lot 206, Property From A Distinguished Family Collection, Magnificent Sapphire and Diamond Necklace-Bracelet Combination, Harry Winston Set with seven emerald-cut sapphires weighing a total of approximately 123.13 carats Estimate $1/1.5 million Page 127

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Lot 210, Property From a Distinguished Family Collection, Elegant Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris Set with five sugarloaf cabochon sapphires weighing a total of approximately 193.73 carats Estimate $1/1.5 million Page 128

Lot 205, Property From A Distinguished Family Collection, Pair of Rare Sapphire and Diamond Earclips, Harry Winston Set with two modified pear-shaped sapphires weighing approximately 23.02 and 20.83 carats Estimate $650/850,000 Page 129

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 195 The Largest Round Diamond to Be Offered at Auction Weighing 110.92 carats, L Faint Brown Color, VS1 clarity, Excellent Polish, Cut & Symmetry Estimate $4.2/6.2 million Page 130

MORPHÉE

First Parisian Pop-Up Store Page 131

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE

MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE First Parisian Pop-Up Store

Morphée Joaillerie is a Paris based

Pamela is a talented artist and an amazing

company who’s vocation, since 2013, has been

woman. She could have been a fairy; instead

to crystallize the dreams of mankind through

she chose to be a dream maker and not just

the use of gold and precious gemstones.

any because they are your dreams. Pamela

Embodies in the mythological character of

Hastry, who has been responsible for the

Morpheus (Morphée in French), the founder

design and development of international

and designer Pamela Hastry celebrates an

jewelry brands, decided to establish Morphée

ancient art that has, throughout time, been the

and to transform your dreams into reality.

privileged witness of our lives. She transcends reality, anecdotes, memories; and transposes them as limited edition jewelry pieces, but also designs custom made.

From London to Paris, via Antwerp and Rome, Miss Hastry draws excellence from every corner of the world. Her training at Kingston University, the Instituto Europeo di

2017 has been an incredible year for

Design and the National Federation HBJO,

Morphée Joaillerie with publications of certain

built the foundations and knowledge of this

pieces in two 2018 trend-forecasting books.

passionate creative.

The first in Trendvision, released by Paola De Luca with the Fiera di Vicenza, and the second in India’s rst jewellery trend book through the endeavor of the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and the National Institute of Design (NID). Furthermore, Thames & Hudson published “Fine Jewelry Couture”

by Olivier Dupon in which a chapter was dedicated to Morphée Joaillerie. To celebrate this wonderful year, their first Parisian Pop-Up opens the doors of the Morphée World to the

In 2013, she founded Morphée Joaillerie; her interest in art, elegance, design and human nature nurtures her creativity and offers a particular sensibility in the design of her jewelry. Her designs outsource style and nesse in the secular knowledge of precious stones, high quality craftsmanship and the latest jewellery techniques. Elegance and history are the subjects behind the singularity of each piece - the image of the beloved.

public.

The creative approach in Morphée

From the 4th till the 20th of December, Morphée Joaillerie welcomes customers and potential retailers to discover the collections and new designs at 10 Rue Saint Roch - 75001 Paris, France, from Monday through Saturday 10am to 6:30pm Sunday from 1pm to 6pm.

designs lays in the designer’s inspiration.

Fascinated by precious and ephemeral moments, she notices the sort of butter y effect these can have on someone’s life. She tries to capture these, transposing them into symbols whilst telling a story. These life stories are then to be interpreted, projected onto by

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the beholder – however personal and

When you see a shooting star, you must

confidential. This is also why Morphée

close your eyes and make a wish. Behind

Joaillerie provides the possibility to create a

each star hides a wish or a dream to come

bespoke piece, so the wearer can fully tell his

true.

or her personal story through the jewel.

Creating a bespoke piece creates a deeper connection with it’s owner and the piece

Tiny Hugger (collection starting 1700€ ttc)

created... a greater sense of respect, passion and love.

A tiny gesture, a surprising moment, the meeting of two worlds – that of nature and

Each jewel is hand-made and in limited editions, reflecting the craftsmanship and expertise of an illustrious trade, but also

animals with humans, a precious memory that will eternally accompany you and forge you relationship with nature.

revealing a designers approach;

Millésime (collection starting 4490€ ttc)

re-interpreting how to wear jewelry. The story of each piece is only heightened when it is worn by it’s beholder – further emphasizing on it’s symbolism. For example, the “Make A Wish” midi ring was designed to be worn in close to the tip of your finger because you always want to keep your dreams “at your fingertip” as the old saying goes – a

Millésime is the term used to describe the vintage year of wine. Symbol of transcendence, a savoir-faire passed from generation to generation, the Millésime collection symbolizes the secrets and know-how passed on from one another over time.

remembrance that you need to be able to keep your dreams within reach.

Flutterby Butterfly (collection starting 9690€ ttc)

The collections that can be discovered at

The butterfly is symbol of transformation;

Morphée Joaillerie’s first pop-up event

the beauty of life’s continuous unfolding that

include:

one tries to seize and preserve but is forever

Cherry Blossoms (collection starting 950€ ttc) Cherry Blossoms are a symbol of beauty and happiness that flourishes only but once a

fleeting – a symbol transposed into gold and diamonds, forever lasting.

The Flight (collection starting 20,700€ ttc)

year. Ephemeral, a precious moment that is to

The swallow bird, a good omen, returns

be seized, like love. What woman does not

every year to announce the commencement

desire a bouquet of flowers as eternal as the

of spring. To be able to love someone to the

love she will carry for the one who gifts them

point of setting them free, hoping they

to her?

eternally return with spring in their heart.

Make A Wish (collection starting 1075€ ttc)

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE

Cherry Blossoms

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE

Make A Wish

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Tiny Hugger

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Millésime

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Flutterby Butterfly

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE

The Flight

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BOUCHERON Seven diamonds with exceptional colors Page 143

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BOUCHERON PRESENTS 7 DIAMONDS WITH EXCEPTIONAL COLORS Frédéric Boucheron was a visionary

Found only in certain geographical areas

jeweler. His collections always displayed

such as Brazil, West Africa and some regions

leading-edge forms, innovative techniques,

of Australia, out of 10,000 carats produced,

and gemstones with character. This passion for

only 1 carat will come out with a hue. The

rare and exceptional stones led him - and his

chances of that coloration being intense are

heirs after him - to travel the world and to

even lower; 1 in 25,000.

forge ties with the world’s greatest stone traders in search of the most dazzling sparkles.

For nearly 160 years, the workshops have maintained this tradition and focus on the

It is hard to give a value to these special diamonds and to make comparisons, but every time one is uncovered there is unparalleled enthusiasm.

emotions inspired by the stones. With innovation always a priority, the craftsmen and women of the first jeweler of Place Vendôme c re at e e x t ra o rd i n a r y p i e c e s s e t w i t h

We invite you to discover those 7 amazing diamonds in this article but also in one Boucheron boutique.

characterful stones, unique in their kind. This

Created by Frederic Boucheron in 1858,

passion is reflected in each of the High

Boucheron is built through four generations of

Jewelry collections.

direct descendants. Visionary designer and

You have to be born under a lucky star for the chance to hold a colored diamond in your hand one day. As they represent less than 0.1% of the world’s production of rough diamonds, they are the most coveted

first jeweler of the Place Vendôme, Boucheron embodies excellence in Jewelry, High Jewelry and Watchmaking. The Boucheron style, free and audacious, continues to create the classics of tomorrow.

diamonds in the world.

There are currently more than 55

As rare as they are precious, colored diamonds are the result of natural accidents that generate an unforeseeable coloring of the

Boucheron boutiques across the world.

Boucheron is part of Kering, a worldwide leader in luxury and lifestyle.

d i a m o n d .

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DIAMANT POLAIRE This stone, with its unique colour and shape, is a real treasure of nature. Deep orange colored diamonds are among the rarest colored diamonds in the world.
 It is practically impossible to find any above 2 carats.

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ETERNITY Cut from the same gemstone, the three diamonds have been given a pear shape, revisiting the Boucheron drop motif. The form given to the necklace is a tribute to the FrĂŠdĂŠric Boucheron legendary questionmark necklace.

Eternity Necklace Necklace set with a 3,48 ct pear Fancy Deep Blue diamond and a 1,00 ct pear diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

Eternity Earrings Pendant earrings set with one 1,82 ct Fancy Deep Blue diamond and one 1,73 ct pear Fancy Deep Blue diamond, two 0,50 ct round diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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NEVESTA NECKLACE Necklace set with a 6,02 ct pear yellow green diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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LOVELY RING Ring set with a 2,05 ct pear Fancy Intense Pink diamond, paved with diamonds, on platinum.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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LISERET RING Ring set with a 1,06 ct round Fancy Intense Purplish Pink diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

LAPIS LAZULI The breathtaking beauty of gems Page 157

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

LAPIS LAZULI

By Eva Kountouraki “Ultramarine blue is a color illustrious,

jewels and religious decorations were carved

beautiful, and most perfect, beyond all other

out of lapis lazuli, and it has also accompanied

colors; one could not say anything about it nor

ancient Egypt’s kings and queens from their

do anything with it, that its quality would not

everyday life jewelry until eternity, in the form

still surpass. And, because of its excellence, I

of protective amulets buried with them forever

want to discuss it at length, and to show you in

in their sarcophagi... And, although this

detail how it is made. And pay close attention

material was not mined in Egypt, the most

to this, for you will gain great honor and

important Egyptian artifacts ever found,

service from it.” [...] “To begin with, get some

contain lapis lazuli gemstones and sculptures.

lapis lazuli. Pound it in a bronze mortar, and bear in mind that the more finely you work it up, the finer the blue will come out”. In his “Libro dell’Arte” or else Book of Art, written around 1400, Cennino Cennini praises and explains the method of creation and use of a very special pigment which derives from a precious material, lapis lazuli.

Lapis lazuli is not a mineral, nor a crystal, but a rock, as it is a massive aggregate composed of several minerals in varying quantities. What gives it its magnificent blue colour is the presence of the mineral lazurite, which is veined with white calcite, spotted with the metallic sparkle of pyrite and combined with a variety of other minerals, all bonded

It is the same dust pigment, ultramarine

together to form an opaque and majestic rock.

blue, that the “Lady of all women”, this glorious

Lapis lazuli is an ancient material that humans

entity called Nefertiti, used to mix with

have been mining and using since the 7th

perfumed oils and apply it around her eyes, as

millennium BC. However, its unusual rocky

a means of emphasizing her beauty, in an

nature grants it its unique and “always-new”

ancient, yet creative and surprisingly

aspect, as no piece of lapis is the same as the

contemporary make-up method. Since

next one.

antiquity, high quality lapis lazuli pieces travelled the world with merchants’ caravans from the Bactrian region (modern Afghanistan) to reach the great cities of the Roman Empire, ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt, where lapis was largely used for sacred objects and regalia. Statues of Gods, symbolic

The oldest and most prolific source of lapis lazuli is a difficult mountainous terrain at a high altitude on the great mountain system of Hindu Kush of central Asia. The collision of the Indian subcontinent and the Eurasian plate which created the Himalayas about fifty-five

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million years ago, and the geologic

Designers of important jewelry brands use it

metamorphism it brought forth, is

today to create one-of-a-kind pieces, just like

responsible for the mechanisms that gave

all the most important and historic paintings

birth to the beautiful lapis rocks. This is a

depicting Virgin Mary contain lapis lazuli dust

harsh and barren area that can only be

in the precious Ultramarine Blue that colours

reached on foot, while all the equipment

her famous blue mantle.

required for the rock breaking and extraction are carried by hand and on the back of donkeys. Many kilograms of lapis bearing rock are released, loaded on the animals, and through a painstaking days-long walk, they are carried at a lower level to the cities, in order to be furtherly processed. These same mines that were producing lapis lazuli some 6500 years ago, continue producing today,

Lapis lazuli will never be boring; its magic blue colour and surprising appearance will enchant your eyes.

Think of that, a

more-than-6000-years long walk to the top of the mountain and down, and it’s worth it. At the end of the day, all beautiful things are hard to get; it’s a long way to the top if you wanna rock n’ roll..

making them the oldest commercial gem source. Other sources include the Chilean Andes and the Lake Baikal region in Russia among other minor ones, but the highest quality material still comes from Badakshan, Afghanistan.

As mentioned above, renaissance master painters would grind gem-quality lapis lazuli in order to obtain ultramarine blue, the most expensive and exclusive blue pigment. From the mesmerizing eyes of Queen Nefertiti, to the exceptional Chinese sculptures and from the Chilean protective amulets to the ancient Roman decorative inlays, lapis lazuli will always find a way to accompany humans.

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ITALIAN-DESIGN Breathtaking unique pieces

A hallmark that finds its inspiration in

a foregone conclusion. Italian Design

history and nature; design, colour and the

reproposes the style and traditions of a past

highest quality materials blend together to

where famous names like Tiffany, Pomellato,

give life to unique and memorable pieces. All

Bulgari, and a few others had the ability and

this plus the desire of bringing Italian creativity

strength to create jewellery on commission,

to the world. Silvia and Alberto Prandoni,

customized to each individual desire, for that

young siblings from Piedmont, first dreamed

particular woman who would have worn it on

about and then created Italian-Design in

that specific occasion.

Cuneo in 2011.

“We want to go back to haute jewellery

“We grew up among jewellery and

design choosing stones and materials of

watches. Our parents always worked in this

absolute quality, interpreted with an original

sector. Alberto attended his first trade fair in

design that will adapt to and reflect individual

Basel when he was just two years old! After

personalities. For this reason we create unique

completing our studies and individual

pieces or a limited number of up to eight

experiences, we found ourselves sharing the

pieces. We propose colour variations and

same aspiration: producing our own line of

modifications to perfectly satisfy the desires of

jewellery that would distinguish itself from

those who turn to us for our customization

what the market offered and be the result of

capabilities”.

original design research whose reference would be the important creative lesson that Italy was able to bestow throughout the 20th century. Nonetheless we have not neglected casting a glance on the world, in a very enriching formative exchange to achieve our own convincing expressive figure. And from that moment, certain of our strength and driven by our passion, our jewellery has undergone a difficult but stimulating international comparison. These are our two starting points while being, at the same time,

This has nothing to do with a market where famous names live on their glorious past reputations with a public that adapts to standard jewellery produced in large numbers. The haute jewellery of Italian Design imagines and creates unconventional jewellery made with a precious structure and small twists of events that are occasionally ironic. This jewellery represents episodes, moments, and moods: jewellery as a depiction of the imagination.

the cardinal points of our research”.

“We want to repropose a taste for fun,

Carving out a niche in a very crowded global market does not seem evident nor is it

with jewellery that surprises and takes those who wear it by surprise, breaking the mould of the many worn out models seen a thousand

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times before. We design rings, bracelets or

unusual stones treated with unusual cuts. For

necklaces as if they were living objects with

example, in the Lava ring, the Mexican opal

their own personal stories. Our sources of

was cut irregularly or emeralds are cut in a

inspiration are history, with its myths and

sugar loaf style. The constant is given by the

many legends that find expression in the

exclusive choice of noble materials and

Historica line, or the explosion and the

natural stones.

richness of nature that is exalted in the Naturalia line that surprises with the colours of a flower, the traces of a leaf or the setting of a seascape, and finally the Cosmo line, with the mysteries and the lights of heaven and the constellations.”

“We would like to reiterate that the product is not our focus, but the person is with his or her desires, dreams, tastes and cultural heritage. Our approach enables us to reach the individual and to interpret his or her requests. It is certainly a less direct path

Artifacts that create emotional bond with

but one that gives great satisfaction. As for

the buyer, by encouraging a private and

the Russian market, we were literally

continuously new dialogue with him or her.

enchanted by St. Petersburg and its

Each piece of the Italian Design collection is

architecture. That is why we are creating

enriched with photos and details regarding

jewellery that recounts this strong inspiration.

the sources of inspiration, so that every

Russian customers who are very competent

individual can in turn recount the origins of

and willing to distinguish themselves from

their piece of jewellery in the encounters that

the masses will appreciate our philosophy”.

will accompany him or her. Explicit care and attention is given to this haute jewellery capable of harmonizing new technologies with handcrafted care for detail, finding a balance between present, past, and future.

Even the communication campaign of this young brand focuses on a direct relationship with clients taking full advantage of new technologies to reach every part of the world. The www.italian-design.it website

“We are convinced that we must return to

presents 3D animations of the jewellery

the right measure, that is a few carefully

bringing each individual into the atmosphere

chosen quality pieces, forgoing standardized

and specific workmanship of each creation.

and undistinguished quantities. Our desire is

Without presumption or indifference, direct

to become the interpreters of this changed

relationships are fomented through the

attitude even through a pricing policy that

“Facebook” social networking site with a

focuses on the value of the gemstones and

page that indicates every new development.

materials rather than on secondary costs”.

Italian Design’s presence on Louise Via Roma

The variety of stones and forms as well as the themes used open to an encounter with

with 3D animations enables an interaction with an ideal audience.

the most diverse cultures on the vast global market. Colour, which is very present in each collection, is expressed through the choice of

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Amethyst necklace

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES

ALHAMBRA Ring (open)

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES

ALHAMBRA Ring

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THE PROTAGONISTS

rubellite, … which have become the

Two different personalities that work in

hallmarks of Italian Design’s jewellery.

constant comparison with each other.

“Alberto has a creative personality with

Silvia Prandoni: after having completed secondary school with an emphasis on humanities she graduated in Business Administration at Bocconi University in Milan.

During her studies, Silvia took two long formative trips abroad; first she did an internship at Ferrero in Mexico and then took

the ability to draw some of the jewels in our collections, and direct other designers by providing the inspiration for new collections.

He is responsible for the production, collaborating with our manufacturers, and identifying the finest goldsmiths according to the creation of a specific piece of jewellery”.

a six-month course in New Zealand. After

At the Jewellery Historian we admire their

graduating, she worked at Procter & Gamble

work. The design is iconic, the craftsmanship

in Rome in the marketing department, then

is amazing and the final pieces are always

for Reckitt Benkiser. Silvia’s most important

breathtaking. It is an honor for us to introduce

experiences were those related to her

our readers to such amazing works of art.

character development and understanding of the workplace.

“I have a pragmatic personality and large companies have taught me an approach to problem solving. In our company I deal with management, communication and marketing”.

A l b e r t o Pr a n d o n i : a f t e r h a v i n g completed commercial school he attended the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America), the most competent institute in the world for the certification of gems where he received the title of gemmologist for both diamonds and coloured gemstones. His vast knowledge and passion for precious stones pushed him to begin buying different, lesser-known gemstone varieties compared to the classics such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires: extremely rare stones such as Paraiba tourmalines or Australian, Mexican, and Ethiopian opals, or tanzanite, and

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ALHAMBRA Ring (open)

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MERMAID Ring

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CORALIA CAVE Ring

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PARAIBA Earrings

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CORALIA SPONGE Ring

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SNOW WHITE BLACK Ring

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SWAN Ring

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ALHAMBRA BLUE PEARL Ring

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SEA ANEMONE Earrings

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LAVA Ring (back)

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LAVA Ring (side)

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LAVA Necklace

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LAVA Earrings

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LAVA Bracelet

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BULGARI

Sophisticated Enchantment Page 183

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT

BULGARI Sophisticated Enchantment

Launched in 2016 and embodying the reptile symbol flirting with the borders of High

comfort and a delightfully sensual feel for the woman who slides it onto her wrist.

Jewelllery and Haute Horlogerie, Serpenti Incantati testifies to the intensely adaptable nature of this design icon. Through four new 2017 versions, the powerful fascination of this watch -that is exceptional in many ways- shines and sparkles through its tourbillon movement and its jewellery settings.

In its jewellery version set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the snow-set dial and bezel create a particularly refined and dainty aesthetic effect. The entire watch is naturally made of gold. It embraces the wrist with a discreet. perfectly elegant and refined satin strap, or with a diamond-set bracelet graced with a

Since its recent introduction, Serpenti

pure design -and which is in itself a jewellery

Incantati has exercised an ever-growing

creation bearing the inimitable Bulgari

appeal. What could be more natural for a

signature. Taking the collection into a whole

serpent designed to be enchanting, or

new dimension, the Serpenti Incantati

incantati as the Italians say ? This highly

Tourbillon Lumière watches bring the magic

exclusive and very rare Haute Horlogerie

of two enhancements cherished by Haute

model is a precious watch that remains as

Horlogerie : the tourbillon regulator and

a p p e a l i n g a s e v e r. I t s i m p e c c a b l e

skeleton-working. The mechanical

stone-setting naturally make it a gem of time

hand-wound movement crafted in gold has

bearing the inimitable touch of the Roman

been finely sculpted and open-worked to

jewellery. Elegant and sensual, imbued with

allow light to pour into the heart of the watch

that touch of fanciful sophistication, one

through its sapphire crystals. It is enlivened by

expects from Italian chic, it also charms

the ventral activity of the tourbillon, while its

observers by its fascinating construction.

distinctive luminosity gives it a spectacular and

By coiling around the watch dial, rather that forming the case itself, the reptile displays

unique sparkle that makes this precious watch truly incandescent.

a particularly supple facet of its nature. For the fully jewelled version, Bulgari has specifically devised for it a cleverly articulated system ensuring a superbly smooth flow. Visually, this creates the impression that the diamond-studded serpent is actually in motion. In concrete terms, it ensures perfect

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SHOWCASE

SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

VHERNIER

ANABELA CHAN

THEODOROS

MARKIN

ELEUTERI

BOUCHERON

BUDDHA MAMA

ANDRE MARCHA

SANDRA BILOÉ

DAVID MORRIS NIKOS KOULIS

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

ADRESS BOOK BRANDS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

ANABELA CHAN

MARKIN

www.anabelachan.com

www.vladimirmarkin.com

ANDRE MARCHA

NIKOS KOULIS

www.andremarcha.com

www.nikoskoulis.gr

ARTISTAR JEWELLERY 2018

MICHO KOIDE

www.artistarjewels.com

www.instagram.com/michio_koide

BOUCHERON

MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE

www.boucheron.com

www.morphee-joaillerie.com

BUDDHA MAMA

SANDRA BILOÉ

www.buddhamama.com

www.instagram.com/sandrabiloejoailleriemc

BULGARI

STÉPHANIE CACHARD

www.bulgari.com

www.stephaniecachard.com

DAVID MORRIS

SOTHEBY’S

www.davidmorris.com

www.sothebys.com

ELEUTERI

THEODOROS

www.eleuteri.nyc

www.theodoros.com.gr

ITALIAN-DESIGN

UDOZZO

www.italian-design.it

www.udozzo.com

GUCCI

VHERNIER

www.gucci.com

www.vhernier.it

JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN

VON URBANOVSKY

www.jsay.com

www.vonurbanovsky.com

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