Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY
27
Special
HOLIDAYS
27 THE
BEST
KEPT
SECRET
IN
THE
WORLD
OF
LUXYRY
JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN Born in Morocco, Julien Riad Sahyoun he launched his London-based jewellery brand in 2016. Discover a true ode to humanity.
LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
9
Discover the amazing new collections created by GUCCI. Exceptional fine jewellery and amazing timepieces.
MICHO KOIDE
17 33
Michio Koide is a jewelry designer and also an artist based in Japan. In this issue, we invite you to discover a unique perspective, a different artistic vision and an amazing artist.
STÉPHANIE CACHARD
45
Stéphanie Cachard grew up in Beirut. Born into a family of jewellers she came to understand the secret of jewellery design and craftsmanship from a very young age. In this issue she unveils her latest collection Astrale, joining her three other ranges.
Page 2
CONTENTS
85
C A F E
|
B A R
|
R E S T A U R A N T
E L A S I D O N
1 7
A T H E N S
211 4007882 www.qbee.gr
Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY
Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com
FOUNDER | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) ASSOCIATE EDITOR | Christina Rodopoulou
27
Special
HOLIDAYS
CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE | Panayiotis Simopoulos GEMOLOGY EDITOR | Eva Kountouraki, G.G (GIA)
COVER | AS Inc. /Shutterstock
PARTNERS | Martin Huynh, Catherine Varoucha, COLUMNISTS | Panayota Vraka, Lara van Schaik, G.G (GIA) CREATIVE | Jewellery Historian PRODUCTION | Jewellery Historian PHOTO AGENCIES | Shutterstock, iStock, Unsplash GRAPHIC DESIGN | Jewellery Historian ADVERTISING | Jewellery Historian WEB | www.jewelleryhistorian.com E-MAIL | info@jewelleryhistorian.com
Made in the European Union Printed copies available exclusively by Print of Demand JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2017
All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CONTENTS | ISSUE 26
131
183
MORPHÉE
BULGARI
Designer Pamela Hastry celebrates an ancient art that has, throughout time, been the privileged witness of our lives. She transcends reality, anecdotes, memories; and transposes them as limited edition jewelry pieces.
Discover Serpenti Incantati. This highly exclusive and very rare Haute Horlogerie model is a precious watch that remains as appealing as ever.
143
161
BOUCHERON
LAPIS LAZULI
Frédéric Boucheron was a visionary jeweler. His collections always displayed leading-edge forms, innovative techniques, and gemstones with character. In this issue discover seven diamonds with exceptional colors.
Eva Kountouraki, head gemology editor of the Jewellery Historian, introduces us to the breathtaking beauty of lapis lazuli.
157
BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
JEWELS FOR EVERY WISHLIST
A hallmark that finds its inspiration in history and nature; design, colour and the highest quality materials blend together to give life to unique and memorable pieces, dreams and created by Italian-Design.
Just in time for the holidays, Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Fine Jewels auctions will be held in New York on 5 & 7 December 2017.
115
REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
61
UDOZZO creates jaw-dropping, exclusive and limited pieces of fine jewellery for the modern gentleman and the sophisticated lady of today.
Page 6
212
SHOWCASE Previously known as OUR FAVES, this new column is a window to a new world of craftsmanship, beauty and creativity. Discover amazing jewellery and timepieces and a unique new experience.
M E D I A PA RT N E R S
EDITOR’S LETTER
B
eauty is not about prettiness, it is about successful communication. There are plenty of pretty images surrounding us, available in our lives ; but these we might not refer to as beautiful; and it is not difficult to find works of artistic expression that we might agree are beautiful that are not necessarily pretty. Beauty is rather a measure of affect,
a measure of emotion. According to Jakobson, any act of verbal communication is composed of six factors and each factor has a function, that operates between the message and the factor. A context (referential function), an addresser (emotive function), an addressee (conative function), a contact between an addresser and addressee (phatic function), a common code (metalingual function) and a message (poetic function). Few days ago, I was doing a presentation and while I was talking, a person from the audience verbally attacked me for something I said. She couldn’t understand, she didn’t want to understand, the difference between a legend and a myth. She was speaking very loud, while I was trying to explain to her that while these words are commonly used interchangeably, historically and academically there is a difference. The communication was not successful. If everyone were to have the same experiences, all messages would be encoded, transmitted, and decoded alike.
However, people differ in their personal histories, ways in
which they experience things, and emotional responses, leading to differences in the ways in which communications are encoded, transmitted, received, and understood. We are all different and this is the beauty of life. In the context of art, beauty is the gauge of successful communication between participants – between the artist (addresser) and the perceiver (addressee). Beautiful art is the one that had a successful communication. But neither the artist nor the observer can be certain for this, because art, like beauty, is eternally subjective. We can’t judge if art is beautiful. We are not able because our experiences are different, because we are not open to innovation, to new ideas and things but mainly because we do not all wish to have a successful communication. The next time you see art remember to be open to experience a successful communication. Open your heart and mind to diversity, try to welcome new perspectives, new visions and new ideas. Try to understand that we are all different. Don’t judge what you do not understand. Accept that we all have a different perspective on life.
FOUNDER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JEWELLERY HISTORIAN MAGAZINE
Page 8
GUCCI Les Merveilles dionysiaques Page 9
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
GUCCI
Les Merveilles dionysiaques
Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci is one of
paired with the matching Dionysus watch for a
the world’s leading luxury fashion brands, with
layered look.
a renowned reputation for creativity, innovation and Italian craftsmanship. Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in
THE DIONYSUS WATCH: AN ELEGANT BLEND OF PRECIOUS MATERIALS
apparel and accessories that owns a portfolio
Gucci Timepieces is expanding the Dionysus
of powerful luxury, sports and lifestyle brands.
collection with a new gold watch. With its
At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to introduce you the latest GUCCI collections, recently presented by the iconic brand.
striking silhouette and elegant mix of precious natural materials, this 23mm model is designed to be worn as a watch or as an accessory.
DIONYSUS
The two feline heads snake their way around
The Dionysus collection is composed by four
an 18kt carved yellow gold case, encrusted
jewelry pieces crafted from a mix of precious
with four tsavorite stones that sparkle in rich
materials.
green hues. The back of the case is engraved
With a drop-shaped silhouette, the earrings showcase the Dionysus motif in 18kt yellow gold, accented with diamonds (0.2ct), green enamel, and tsavorite (1.45ct) and, also
with Gucci’s bee motif, while the inside of the18kt carved yellow gold bangle is punctuated with delicate green enamel decorations.
featuring the Dionysus motif, the necklace in
Shimmering in white tones, the mother of
18kt yellow gold is embellished with green
pearl dial is finished with yellow gold-colored
enamel and tsavorite (0.16ct) and measures
hands, the Gucci logo at 12 o’clock.
70cm.
This exquisitely crafted watch can either be
Two cuff bracelets complete the collection.
worn solo, or combined with matching items
Each one displays three interlocking tiger
from the Dionysus jewelry collection to create
heads in 18kt yellow gold with eyes in
extra impact.
tsavorite (0.18ct). Decorated with green enamel around the inner edge, the on-trend
NEW GG RUNNING RANGE
open silhouette of these cuffs combines easily
Offering a fresh new interpretation of the GG
with other styles. The slimmer cuff can also be
logo, the GG Running collection sees its fine
Page 10
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Dionysus Fine Jewelry collection
Page 11
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Dionysus Fine Jewelry collection
Page 12
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Dionysus Fine Jewelry collection
Page 13
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Dionysus Watch
Page 14
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
jewelry line now even more contemporary
creations are unexpectedly embellished by
and playful. The clean lines and vibrant colors
small golden skulls.
of this latest GG Running range are shown in delicate chain necklaces, stackable or single rings, extra-long or stud earrings and sleek bangles.
Gucci craftsmen take their expertise to new heights as they realize the elegant Flora earrings and rings in vivid rainbow hues, creating a multi-colored effect with dazzling
The new assortment of pieces is all worked in
green tsavorite, purple amethyst and yellow
warm 18kt yellow, pink or white gold and
sapphires.
adorned with diamonds or joyously colored gemstones. The ensemble of colored variants pops with sparkling precious stones in bright hues of orange, pink, yellow and blue. Stackable rings are adorned with the GG
Finally, a selection of rings, earrings and necklaces show the Flora motifs take on an opulent mood, featuring sophisticated white tones of gold, diamonds and mother of pearl.
motif in vividly colored precious gemstones,
Relevant and modern, the full Gucci Flora line
giving an eclectic touch to the recognizable
includes pendant necklaces, earrings and
double G motif. A youthful mood is seen in a
rings.
selection of single earrings studded with tsavorite, topaz, amethyst or citrine which confirms the modern feel of this vibrant line.
GUCCI JEWELRY ADDS NEW PIECES TO ICON COLLECTION
Diamonds complete the collection: a dainty
With its intricate craftsmanship, use of warm
chain bracelet and street-style rings are set
gold, floral motifs and Italian enameling
with diamonds, and long earrings shimmer
techniques, Gucci Jewelry’s Icon collection
with a cascade of diamonds.
draws inspiration from the Renaissance era, a
GUCCI FLORA FINE JEWELRY BLOSSOMS WITH ARTISTRY
period that has greatly inspired the House's new creative aesthetic. The line has now been extended with a new series of delicately
Graceful and delicate, the Gucci Flora Fine Jewelry line continues to explore new ways of working with precious stones. The refined flowers, hallmark of this range, marry intricate gold-smithing techniques with painterly designs and bold flower forms to create necklaces, earrings and rings. Fresh combinations of mother of pearls, diamonds and colored gemstones bring a new allure to these timeless flora motifs; the line includes
crafted blossom-themed pieces. The first ensemble comprises an open-cuff bangle, delicate necklace and ring. Here, the decorative Icon flower and leaf design is accented with blue and white enameling, set against a blue and black enamel background. Of particular note are the beading and curlicues that create a graceful trim along the ring and bangle.
three color styles: shades of white and blue,
Two further ensembles, made up of a
dazzling rainbow hues or a regal ensemble in
pendant necklace and two styles of matching
a palette of white and cream. Many of these
earrings, are offered in yellow or white gold
Page 15
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
GG Running Fine Jewelry collection
Page 16
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
GG Running Fine Jewelry collection
Page 17
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
GG Running Fine Jewelry collection
Page 18
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
GG Running Fine Jewelry collection
Page 19
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
GG Running Fine Jewelry collection
Page 20
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Gucci Flora Fine Jewelry collection
Page 21
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Gucci Flora Fine Jewelry collection
Page 22
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Icon Jewelry collection
Page 23
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Icon Jewelry collection
Page 24
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
with white enamel. The yellow gold necklace
topaz, black spinels and pearls, and glow with
variant comes with an extra-long 80 cm chain,
golden yellow citrine quartz, opulent purple
for an urban look. Two further necklaces are
and crimson rubies. Grey diamonds and
available as stand-alone pieces, in yellow or
pearls bring a sophisticated shine.
pink gold, with white enameled details.
Full of wit and imagination, these new
Across the entire collection, the delicate leaf
additions exude character and creativity,
and flower designs are interwoven with the
especially when mixed together in a bold,
recognizable ‘GG’ motif. Italian master
beautiful medley.
goldsmiths have carefully realized all the Icon pieces, infusing an aura of timeless craftsmanship into this charming line. LE MARCHÉ DES MERVEILLES COLLECTION CELEBRATES THE FELINE MOTIF
LE MARCHÉ DES MERVEILLES – SECRET WATCH IN GOLD Gucci has added a new 22mm Secret watch to the colorful and eclectic Le Marché des Merveilles collection. Discreetly hiding the dial, the rotating feline head is the focus of
Among the most eclectic and audacious
this high-end timepiece, which mixes
Gucci jewelry collections, the Le Marché des
precious materials with the mystery of time.
Merveilles range is reminiscent of a curiosity cabinet, overflowing with intriguing animal emblems and precious stones. Gucci adds beautiful new pieces to the collection and continues to explore the animalier world by placing the feline head motif center stage. The pieces are intricately crafted from 18kt gold, aged silver and precious stones, showcasing House's exquisite craftsmanship and creativity.
The new gold edition offers a modern and contemporary interpretation of the traditional ‘secret watch’ concept that showcases a carved antique 18kt yellow gold case set with two diamonds (0.146ct) to represent the animal’s eyes. The feline head slides to one side to reveal a white mother of pearl dial with antique gold-colored hands. This elegant mix of materials is highlighted by a black lizard skin strap, finished with a yellow
This new collection spans a selection of pieces that feature a tiger’s head either as a precious gem-studded pendant, a statement r i n g , s t u d ea r r i n g s , a b a n g l e o r a n oriental-style hand bracelet. The collection includes different themes and pairings of precious stones, from a dramatic white and green colorway with diamonds and tsavorite
gold ardillon buckle. Demonstrating Gucci’s signature attention to detail, the watch features a pearl on the crown and the house’s bee motif engraved on the back of the case. The dial displays the Gucci logo at 12 o’clock and the ‘Swiss Made’ label at 6 o’clock.
to a colorful composition of orange, red and blue sapphires. The tiger heads are rendered dark and dramatic through the use of paraiba
Page 25
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Le Marché des Merveilles Secret Watch
Page 26
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection
Page 27
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection
Page 28
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection
Page 29
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection
Page 30
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection
Page 31
Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LES MERVEILLES DIONYSIAQUES
Le Marché des Merveilles Fine Jewelry collection
Page 32
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
Page 33
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
MICHIO KOIDE The soul of an artist B Y C AT H E R I N E VA RO U C H A
Michio Koide is a jewelry designer and also an artist based in Japan.
He designs jewelry so that his work bring great p l ea s u re a n d p o w e r t o p e o p l e j u s t l i ke
In his childhood, his grandfather would often make traditional Japanese wood carving. He grew up looking at this grandfather. This influenced him and is visible in his art.
Michelangeloʼs David has been doing so. He has designed several jewelries for celebrities in Japanʼs various fields. He got attention as Japanʼs First Lady, Akie Abe, wore his pendant. [One of his most famous work was dedicated for Japanʼs First Lady,
To understand his work, you must know the
Akie Abe.]
beauty of amazing Japanese calligraphy, as this is very visible in his work.
He has been at work adopting traditional Japanese beauty since her pendant. His exhibition
Kohei Okamoto is one of the most famous
has been held in Paris and New York.
calligraphers in Japan who is famous for giving calligraphy lecture in the Yale University in the U.S.
When you look the Pavlina pendant you see his passion for art. This pendant was originally a
The Chinese character of “SO”, which Kohei
painting called “The Female-Christ” by an artist
Okamoto wrote for jewelry, has the meaning to
living in Switzerland and was transformed into
“create”. This is the jewerly that arranged this
jewelry by a jewelry designer, Michio Koide.
calligraphy of “SO”.
Pavlina is an artist living in Switzerland who
One of Kohei Okamoto’s philosophy is that
won such as ”Prix europeen francophone des Arts
“calligraphy is the fusion of contrast such as
LeopoldSedar Senghor” in Paris in 2005. Her
strong-weak, thick-thin and sparse-dense”.
artworks that combine fantasy and realism are
This jewelry was made with such philosophy. Also, it expresses the way ink splashes and drops by gold and diamond.
highly evaluated. Based on the painting of Pavlina, new “The Female-Christ” was created using expressions unique to jewelry such as the jewel and the texture of polish.
Connection from monochrome world to bimetallic world was done by the creativity unique to humans.
Yu Otuka, a gallerist and the common acquaintance of the two, cooperated to this collaboration and the process was done through
The reason he started design and art in earnest
letters and emails.
was Michelangeloʼs masterpiece in a collection book. Michelangeloʼs David has been inspiring people all over the world as Art has such marvelous power.
Created jewelry was a wearable “artwork” that has luxurious factor such as the allure of jewel and the texture of precious metal in addition to fantastical image of the painting. These two “The
Page 34
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
Female-Christ” should send message to people’s souls.
As keyword for Japanese art, there are “WABI-SABI”, “BOKASI (gradation)” and
When he creates jewelry, there is one thing he makes point of. That is Japanese traditional beauty of his home country. Though Japanese art is well-known to the world for such as “Hokusai”, he didn’t have particular interest in it at first. He started
“YOHAKU (blank space)”. Michio Koide tries to apply such factors in his own jewelry and artwork. Ms GOD is the jewelry brand of the designer, Michio Koide. The name, Ms GOD, means something like the Goddess.
creation with influence from Michelangelo so at first, he was
interested in the beauty of
curved line of Art Nouveau and Renaissance.
Ms GOD is different from other brand in that clients participate to design. Clients do not only purchase a product. They have to
But one day, when he saw a poster in a small bookstore, he started to realize Japanese traditional art.
choose jewelry and motif of animal and plants and actively participate to the entire design process as if they themselves are the jewelry designers. For motif, there are various
It was in Paris he visited for his individual exhibition. He was staying at Bellville, the
marks such as tiger and rose designed by the designer.
downtown of Paris. The town was filled with art, animated with people of various nationalities and was very stimulating.
Clients ponders a lot in order to create their own jewelry and it takes more than a few months to complete. However, the joy of
When he was walking around the town of
finishing creation of the jewelry is bigger. The
Bellville, he happened to find a bookstore in
jewelry made in such way may be called an
which an old Japanese dragon poster was on
artwork rather than a product.
the wall. He was surprised and moved by the fact that an old Japanese painting exists in such a far away town in a foreign country.
Michio Koide is an exceptional artist. At the Jewellery Historian we believe that Jewellery is Art and his jewellery is true art.
That was the moment he realized the value of Japanese art. When there was no Internet yet, Japan was the county who hardly got influenced by other country by its geographical situation surrounded by the ocean. That is why a unique culture developed in Japan.Also, the fact that four seasons are clearly marked in Japan affected its culture.
Page 35
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
Page 36
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
“So” means creation. Calligraphy by Kohey Okamoto
Page 37
Photo courtesy of MICHIO KOIDE © MICHIO KOIDE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
A work inspired from calligraphy
Page 38
Photo courtesy of MICHIO KOIDE © MICHIO KOIDE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
A work inspired from calligraphy
Page 39
Photo courtesy of MICHIO KOIDE © MICHIO KOIDE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
Japanese calligraphy
Page 40
Photo courtesy of MICHIO KOIDE © MICHIO KOIDE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
The Pavlina pendant
Page 41
Photo courtesy of MICHIO KOIDE © MICHIO KOIDE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
The Tiger ring
Page 42
Photo courtesy of MICHIO KOIDE © MICHIO KOIDE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
Peacock pendant
Page 43
Photo courtesy of MICHIO KOIDE © MICHIO KOIDE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE SOUL OF AN ARTIST
Treillage Multi-Coloured Rose Gold Bangle
Page 44
introducing
Stéphanie Cachard Page 45
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
introducing
Stéphanie Cachard Stéphanie Cachard grew up in Beirut. She
Doux (2012), Little Dot (2014), Flore (2015),
was born into a family of jewellers and was
Céleste (2016), and the most recent, Astrale
immersed in the industry thanks to her family’s
(2017), all based on simplified oriental patterns
j e w e l l e r y at e l i e r, w h e re s h e c a m e t o
and geometrical minimal lines.
understand the secret of jewellery design and craftsmanship from a very young age.
This season sees Beirut based jeweller Stéphanie Cachard unveil her latest collection
She went on to study a Masters Degree and graduated from the Lebanese University of
Astrale, joining her three other ranges, Little Dots, Flore and Céleste.
Fine Arts (ALBA) in 2008. In 2009, she joined the family jewellery business, where she developed her skills in traditional metalsmithing techniques, before earning a diploma in diamond grading from the renowned GIA School in Florence in 2010.
The range of exquisite yellow, white and rose 18kt gold and silver rings and bracelets in the Little Dots collection, were inspired by traditional Arabic calligraphy, by extracting a single and essential element of the Arabic script : the dot.
In 2014 she launched her own eponymous brand, and set up her showroom in the heart of Beirut. Stéphanie uses 18KT gold and sterling silver in her collections, and all of her pieces are designed and presented as singular modules allowing several combinations. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted in Beirut by local artisans using responsibly sourced precious metals and stones.
uses one, two or three dots to punctuate some of its letters. As a result, it ends up consisting of 28 letters, while using only 17 basic characters for their main shape. Therefore, many letters in the Arabic alphabet have a similar basic shape, but are distinguished from one another by these dots. The purpose behind this collection is to showcase the economy of design and the
Stéphanie’s influence behind her jewellery is the drawing of the Arabic letter.
As Stephanie explains “Arabic calligraphy
As
subtlety that lies in the drawing of an Arabic letter.”
Stéphanie explains, Arabic calligraphy uses one, two or three dots to punctuate some of its letters. As a result, it ends up consisting of 28 letters, while using only 17 basic characters for their main shape. Therefore, many letters in the Arabic alphabet have a similar basic shape, but
These square shaped rings set the tone for the 3 following collections: “Flore” (2015), “Céleste” (2016), and “Astrale” (2017), all based on simplified oriental patterns and geometrical minimal lines.
are distinguished from one another by these dots. Stéphanie’s collections have evolved over the past five years starting with Des Mots
Page 46
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
3 pétales Ring , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 300$, 18K gold/silver 210$ 2 pétales Rings , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 250$, 18K gold/silver 190$ Page 47
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Céleste M Earrings , All earrings are designed for pierced ears and are fastened at the back with a handmade 18K gold square. Available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and silver/18K gold , 18K gold 650$, 18K gold/silver 300$ Page 48
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Céleste M Earrings , All earrings are designed for pierced ears and are fastened at the back with a handmade 18K gold square. Available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and silver/18K gold , 18K gold 650$, 18K gold/silver 300$ Page 49
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
1.4 + 2.4 Bracelet , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold 18K gold 900$
Page 50
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
3 pétales Ring , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 300$, 18K gold/silver 210$ Page 51
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
1.4 + 2.4 Bracelet , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold 18K gold 900$ Page 52
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Page 53
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Céleste D Bracelet , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold 18K gold 690$ Page 54
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Céleste D Bracelet , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold 18K gold 690$ Page 55
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
1.3, 1.4 Rings , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver 18K gold 250$, 18K gold/diamonds 430$, 18K gold/silver 170$ , 1.4 18K gold 330$, 1.4 18K gold/diamonds 680$, 1.4 18K gold/silver 210$ Page 56
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
1.3 Rings , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver 18K gold 250$, 18K gold/diamonds 430$ , 18K gold/silver 170$ Page 57
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
3 pétales Ring , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 300$, 18K gold/silver 210$ 2 pétales Rings , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 250$, 18K gold/silver 190$ Page 58
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Céleste XS, S Earrings , Available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and silver/18K gold XS 18K gold 320$, XS 18K gold/silver 170$ , S 18K gold 440$, S 18K gold/silver 210$ Page 59
Photo courtesy of STÉPHANIE CACHARD © STÉPHANIE CACHARD
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Céleste M Earrings , All earrings are designed for pierced ears and are fastened at the back with a handmade 18K gold square. Available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and silver/18K gold , 18K gold 650$, 18K gold/silver 300$ Page 60
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
UDOZZO Redefining boundaries Page 61
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
UDOZZO Redefining boundaries UDOZZO creates jaw-dropping, exclusive and limited pieces of fine jewellery for the
Bold. Innovative. Beautiful. Impressive. Crazy? Sometimes.
modern gentleman and the sophisticated lady of today.
The tools that UDOZZO artisans and craftsmen use are the extension of their hands.
B re a t h - t a k i n g d i a m o n d b ra c e l e t s , stunning diamond cocktail and statement rings for him and her, Cufflinks refined with the finest diamonds and made of 18k Gold. All of that combined with the highest mastery of craftsmanship, design and boldness. UDOZZO is proud to be part of VON URBANOVSKY, a family-owned group of high luxury companies with a heritage dating back to 1718.
Every UDOZZO piece is made by hand, using methods that have proven to stand the tests of time. They take time and do not rush things. Because perfection does not happen overnight. Their passion, character and soul shows in everything we do. From the first ideas, sketches and drafts to the creation of a unique piece of fine jewellery, their heritage and values guide our path to perfection.
W i t h f a m i l y ro o t s f ro m G e r m a n y, Czechoslovakia, Russia and Hungary, UDOZZO is passionate about creating unique pieces of fine jewellery that inspires the modern lady and gentleman.
UDOZZO creations are admired around the world. But only a few are able to wear it. Our editor-in-chief is a fan of UDOZZO for years and you can often see him wearing UDOZZO creations.
Over the years UDOZZO has received raving feedback from its customers about its exceptional pieces of fine jewellery.
At UDOZZO they firmly believe that every piece of jewellery has a soul. And that jewellery is the expression of your own soul.
UDOZZO and the Von Urbanovsky group is re-defining the boundaries and profound principles of true high luxury in a modern, digital world with savvy, confident and stylish customers.
Page 62
It’s time to find your soulmate.
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 63
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 64
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 65
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 66
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 67
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 68
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 69
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 70
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 71
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 72
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 73
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 74
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 75
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 76
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 77
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 78
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 79
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 80
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 81
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 82
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 83
Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | REDEFINING BOUNDARIES
Page 84
JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN An Ode to Humanity Page 85
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN An Ode to Humanity B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R
Born in Morocco, Julien Riad Sahyoun
and was inspired to create something that
discovered a passion for rocks and gems as
he was proud of, whilst also leaving a lasting
a child: after studying gemology at the world
impression for the world to see. It was at this
prestigious GIA, he launched his
point that Sahyoun began to create his
London-based jewellery brand in 2016.
artistic vision, and after completing the
“As a child in Morocco, I discovered I was happiest digging for treasure; I collected little rocks, fossils and gems. My family would take me on amazing fishing and hunting trips, but I much preferred to dig for stones: I loved being close to the earth and collecting beautiful things. The area south of Casablanca was the best place to dig and I
course in New York, he moved to California to study Applied Jewellery Art at the GIA Headquarters. It was in California that Sahyoun honed skills in design, carving, mould making and casting – skills that would be invaluable to the creation of his own jewellery later on. Sahyoun took up a job in Biarritz after graduating from GIA.
can still picture myself as a boy with my little
Co m p l e t e c reat i v e f re e d o m w a s
hammer, digging all day. I kept my rocks in
something that Sahyoun strongly desired
boxes and around my room until we moved
after being so constrained during his brief
house and they were thrown away. I was
time in his family’s business, and hence after
heartbroken, but I was at an age where
shown his designs at IJL, an international
things were changing and I put those days of
jewellery exhibition in London, he felt that
collecting beautiful things behind me.” Such
London was the best place to launch his new
a passion has most definitely infiltrated
and innovate brand. Julien Riad Sahyoun
Sahyoun’s collections, with a keen focus on
London launched during Fashion Week in
individuality and precious stones being seen
September 2016, with three collections
throughout.
inspired by unity, individuality and nature.
Sahyoon spent a brief time working for the family business in charge of heavy machinery, before making the bold decision to leave and study at the Gemological Institute of America in New York, a decision
Sahyoun wanted his jewellery to tell stories and bring people together, whilst allowing him to relive the passion he want felt as a child. The brand is a fulfilment of a passion that started in childhood, and never left.
that was supported by his family. Aged only
Today, he continues to travel the globe
25, Sahyoon was living alone in New York,
i n s e a rc h o f i n s p i r a t i o n . E x q u i s i t e ,
Page 86
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
entrancing, and elemental, each piece of
Julien adds about the collection, “The
jewellery is inspired by the organic forms of
use of a bullet shape was important to help
nature.
alter connotations that always attach
Julien is driven by a desire to unite humanity and leave a positive footprint on the world. Created with his signature integrity, intuition, and instinct each piece of JRS jewellery bears the hallmarks of their creator. Delicately detailed and imagined in finely wrought craftsmanship, they deliver a
themselves to bullets. Each Bullet Peace has been damaged in order to show that although people may be challenged, they cannot be broken. I have engraved the word ‘PEACE’ in 8 languages at the point of the bullet, along with Leila’s initials and the date ‘15.1’, inscribed at the base”.
heartfelt message to be remembered for generations to come.
He finishes by saying, “I hope all that wear the Bullet Peace collection do so as a
In 2016 tragically Lelia Alaoui was killed
symbol of hope and anti-terrorism”.
in a Burkina Faso terror attack, she was
Each gold model of the Bullet Peace is a
fatefully wounded and died after being shot
limited and numbered edition of 333. Prices
by a jihadi gunman in Ouagadougou. She
begin at £270 to £999.
was working on an assignment for women’s rights in Burkina Faso for the UN Women and Amnesty International. The beautiful French-Moroccan photographer and video artist’s work on refugees was been exhibited globally, and featured in the likes of New York Times and Vogue.
When I first saw his work I immediately fell in love. When I see his work I am immediately thinking of what Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the famous French author said « La perfection est atteinte, non pas lorsqu’il n’y a plus rien à ajouter, mais lorsqu’il n’y a plus rien à retirer. » (Perfection is achieved,
In tribute to his dear friend Lelia and to
not when there is nothing more to add, but
help ensure her important work lives on,
when there is nothing left to take away.). The
Julien has designed a jewellery collection
work of Julien Riad Sahyoun is not only the
entitled ‘Bullet Peace’, with all proceeds are
work of a talented designer but the work of
going to Found Lelia Alaoui
an exceptional artist.
(http://www.fondationleilaalaoui.org) and a selection of charities that provide aid to children in conflict zones,
I am proud to introduce Julien to all our readers, because I am sure that he has lot of amazing jewellery to create in the future,
Julien Riad Sayou says, “Bullet Peace is
many dreams to offer to us all.
probably my most personal collection, the creation process was bittersweet, knowing Lelia has gone, but that I could help in some small way help create change and unification across cultures around the globe”.
Page 87
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
3ternity trio
Page 88
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
The designer with his models
Page 89
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
3ternity
Page 90
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Page 91
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Sunrise diamond pendant
Page 92
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Cinta Diamond bracelet
Page 93
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
3ternity ring - 333∞Rd
Page 94
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Page 95
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Sunrise Earrings
Page 96
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
3ternity ring
Page 97
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Sun bracelet
Page 98
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Page 99
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Sunrise earrings
Page 100
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Page 101
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Just Rebel Star Touch Me
Page 102
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Dusha Skin Diamond ring
Page 103
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Edgy Skin diamond bracelet
Page 104
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
Page 105
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Yi diamond Skin ring
Page 106
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Bullet Peace Page 107
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Just Rebel Star Touch Me
Page 108
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Skinny Co trio
Page 109
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Bullet Peace Page 110
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Page 111
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Ami Large Skin ring
Page 112
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Ami Skin ring
Page 113
Photo courtesy of JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN © JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AN ODE TO HUMANITY
Skinny Ring
Page 114
Page 115
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
JEWELS FOR EVERY WISHLIST AT SOTHEBY’S Just in time for the holidays, Sotheby’s
Magnificent Jewels sale offers a variety of
Magnificent Jewels and Fine Jewels auctions
vibrant rubies, emeralds and sapphires,
will be held in New York on 5 & 7 December
including an important group of sapphire
2017. Both sales feature a wonderful variety of
jewels by Harry Winston and Van Cleef &
vintage and contemporary pieces by
Arpels from a Distinguished Family Collection.
renowned houses including Van Cleef &
The bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, set with
Arpels, Tiffany & Co., JAR, and Harry Winston
fiv e s p e c t a c u l a r s u g a r l o a f c a b o c h o n
alongside significant gemstones of superlative
sapphires, is a particular standout, with Art
quality. The Magnificent Jewels sale is led by
Deco pieces of this caliber being exceedingly
an exquisite 5.69-Carat Fancy Vivid Blue
rare. Further highlights from this incredible
Diamond Ring (estimate $12/15 million) and
Collection include a rare pair of Burmese
an extremely rare 110.92-Carat Round
sapphire and diamond earclips by Harry
Diamond - the largest round diamond ever to
Winston weighing 20+ carats each, a dazzling
be offered at auction (estimate $4.2/6.2
sapphire and diamond necklace-bracelet
million). All works from both sales will be on
combination by Harry Winston and a
public exhibition in our York Avenue galleries
23.38-carat sugarloaf cabochon sapphire ring
from 30 November – 7 December, highlighting
by Van Cleef & Arpels.
our inaugural A Life of Luxury auction series. We welcome seasoned and aspiring collectors to visit us, speak with a specialist, and try on the entire selection.
Catharine Becket, Head of Magnificent J e w e l s , N e w Yo r k c o m m e n t e d : “ Th i s December, we’re pleased to present the inaugural Icons series in our Magnificent
Gary Schuler, Chairman of Sotheby’s
Jewels sale. The pieces to be featured possess
Jewelry Division, Americas commented:
a compelling variety of characteristics: rarity,
“We’re thrilled to present supreme examples
authorship, provenance and, above all, iconic
of the world’s most sought-after jewels and
design. It is an ideal collection of our very own
gemstones this season, led by the stunning
creation, one that represents connoisseurship
Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring and the
and celebrates the best jewels and jewelers
110.92-carat Round Diamond. Greatly
from the early twentieth century to today.
admired for their rarity, these are gems that
Highlights include a classic double-headed
are enthusiastically pursued by collectors and
diamond and onyx-studded panther bracelet
connoisseurs.”
by Cartier, a vintage ‘Serpenti’ watch by
For those looking to add impressive colored stones to their collections, the
Bulgari, and masterfully-rendered brooch by JAR.”
Left page : Lot 302, Property From A Private Collection, Diamond, Onyx and Emerald 'Double Panther' Bracelet, Cartier, France Estimate $275/375,000 Page 116
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Whether gifting to yourself or a loved
collectors the resources of Sotheby’s
one, our Fine Jewels sale has fashionable
Financial Services, the world’s only full-service
baubles for every price point, style and
art financing company, as well as the
occasion. Featuring classic diamond rings,
collection advisory services of its subsidiary,
whimsical brooches and elegant dress sets by
Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents
highly coveted makers such as Cartier, David
private sale opportunities in more than 70
Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels and Schlumberger,
categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of
the sale truly has something for everyone on
Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two
your list this holiday season. Notable lots
retail businesses, Sotheby’s Diamonds and
include a 12.92 carat Diamond Ring mounted
Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global
by Cartier (estimate $100/150,000), a Pair of
network of 80 offices in 40 countries and is
Emerald and Diamond
the oldest company listed on the New York
Earclips from the collection of Sir Sean
Stock Exchange (BID).
and Lady Michelle Connery (estimate $50/70,000), and a Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet from Oscar Heyman & Brothers (estimate $35/55,000). Following the launch of our exclusive Luxury & Lifestyle Division this past spring, Sotheby’s New York is holding an inaugural week of sales and events from 30 November to 7 December, during which we will offer the very best examples of Jewelry, Watches, Cars, Wine and Fashion. Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744. Sotheby’s became the first international auction house when it expanded from London to New York (1955), the first to conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India (1992) and France (2001), and the first international fine art auction house in China (2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in 10 different salesrooms, including New York, London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s BidNow program allows visitors to view all auctions live online and place bids from anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers
*Estimates do not include buyer’s premium. Prices achieved include the hammer price plus buyer’s premium and are net of any fees paid to the purchaser where the purchaser provided an irrevocable bid.
Right page : Lot 312, Gold, Diamond and Emerald 'Serpenti' Bracelet-Watch, Bulgari, Estimate $200/300,000
Page 117
Page 118
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 161, Pair of Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Earrings Suspending two oval-shaped Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds weighing 5.99 and 5.45 carats, SI1 clarity Estimate $1/1.5 million Page 119
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 179, Highly Important Fancy Intense Orangy Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring Weighing 5.24 carats, VS2 clarity Estimate $1.8/2.2 million Page 120
Lot 184, Property Of A Distinguished Private Collector, Magnificent Diamond Ring Weighing 14.01 carats, D color, VVS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless Estimate $1.5/2.5 million Page 121
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 211, From the Collection of a Lady, Exquisite Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring Set with an emerald-cut Fancy Vivid Blue diamond weighing 5.69 carats, VVS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless Estimate $12/15million Page 122
Lot 185, Property of a Distinguished Private Collector, Highly Important Ruby and Diamond Ring Weighing 15.01 carats Estimate $2.5/3.5 million Page 123
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 183, Property of a Distinguished Private Collector, Exceptional Emerald and Diamond Ring, Carvin French Set with a square emerald-cut emerald weighing 8.01 carats Estimate $650/850,000 Page 124
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Page 125
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
Lot 303, Property Of A Gentleman, Diamond and Green Garnet Brooch, JAR, Paris Estimate $450/650,000
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 302, Property From A Private Collection, Diamond, Onyx and Emerald 'Double Panther' Bracelet, Cartier, France Estimate $275/375,000 Page 126
Lot 206, Property From A Distinguished Family Collection, Magnificent Sapphire and Diamond Necklace-Bracelet Combination, Harry Winston Set with seven emerald-cut sapphires weighing a total of approximately 123.13 carats Estimate $1/1.5 million Page 127
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 210, Property From a Distinguished Family Collection, Elegant Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris Set with five sugarloaf cabochon sapphires weighing a total of approximately 193.73 carats Estimate $1/1.5 million Page 128
Lot 205, Property From A Distinguished Family Collection, Pair of Rare Sapphire and Diamond Earclips, Harry Winston Set with two modified pear-shaped sapphires weighing approximately 23.02 and 20.83 carats Estimate $650/850,000 Page 129
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 195 The Largest Round Diamond to Be Offered at Auction Weighing 110.92 carats, L Faint Brown Color, VS1 clarity, Excellent Polish, Cut & Symmetry Estimate $4.2/6.2 million Page 130
MORPHÉE
First Parisian Pop-Up Store Page 131
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE First Parisian Pop-Up Store
Morphée Joaillerie is a Paris based
Pamela is a talented artist and an amazing
company who’s vocation, since 2013, has been
woman. She could have been a fairy; instead
to crystallize the dreams of mankind through
she chose to be a dream maker and not just
the use of gold and precious gemstones.
any because they are your dreams. Pamela
Embodies in the mythological character of
Hastry, who has been responsible for the
Morpheus (Morphée in French), the founder
design and development of international
and designer Pamela Hastry celebrates an
jewelry brands, decided to establish Morphée
ancient art that has, throughout time, been the
and to transform your dreams into reality.
privileged witness of our lives. She transcends reality, anecdotes, memories; and transposes them as limited edition jewelry pieces, but also designs custom made.
From London to Paris, via Antwerp and Rome, Miss Hastry draws excellence from every corner of the world. Her training at Kingston University, the Instituto Europeo di
2017 has been an incredible year for
Design and the National Federation HBJO,
Morphée Joaillerie with publications of certain
built the foundations and knowledge of this
pieces in two 2018 trend-forecasting books.
passionate creative.
The first in Trendvision, released by Paola De Luca with the Fiera di Vicenza, and the second in India’s rst jewellery trend book through the endeavor of the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and the National Institute of Design (NID). Furthermore, Thames & Hudson published “Fine Jewelry Couture” by Olivier Dupon in which a chapter was dedicated to Morphée Joaillerie. To celebrate this wonderful year, their first Parisian Pop-Up opens the doors of the Morphée World to the
In 2013, she founded Morphée Joaillerie; her interest in art, elegance, design and human nature nurtures her creativity and offers a particular sensibility in the design of her jewelry. Her designs outsource style and nesse in the secular knowledge of precious stones, high quality craftsmanship and the latest jewellery techniques. Elegance and history are the subjects behind the singularity of each piece - the image of the beloved.
public.
The creative approach in Morphée
From the 4th till the 20th of December, Morphée Joaillerie welcomes customers and potential retailers to discover the collections and new designs at 10 Rue Saint Roch - 75001 Paris, France, from Monday through Saturday 10am to 6:30pm Sunday from 1pm to 6pm.
designs lays in the designer’s inspiration. Fascinated by precious and ephemeral moments, she notices the sort of butter y effect these can have on someone’s life. She tries to capture these, transposing them into symbols whilst telling a story. These life stories are then to be interpreted, projected onto by
Page 132
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
the beholder – however personal and
When you see a shooting star, you must
confidential. This is also why Morphée
close your eyes and make a wish. Behind
Joaillerie provides the possibility to create a
each star hides a wish or a dream to come
bespoke piece, so the wearer can fully tell his
true.
or her personal story through the jewel. Creating a bespoke piece creates a deeper connection with it’s owner and the piece
Tiny Hugger (collection starting 1700€ ttc)
created... a greater sense of respect, passion and love.
A tiny gesture, a surprising moment, the meeting of two worlds – that of nature and
Each jewel is hand-made and in limited editions, reflecting the craftsmanship and expertise of an illustrious trade, but also
animals with humans, a precious memory that will eternally accompany you and forge you relationship with nature.
revealing a designers approach;
Millésime (collection starting 4490€ ttc)
re-interpreting how to wear jewelry. The story of each piece is only heightened when it is worn by it’s beholder – further emphasizing on it’s symbolism. For example, the “Make A Wish” midi ring was designed to be worn in close to the tip of your finger because you always want to keep your dreams “at your fingertip” as the old saying goes – a
Millésime is the term used to describe the vintage year of wine. Symbol of transcendence, a savoir-faire passed from generation to generation, the Millésime collection symbolizes the secrets and know-how passed on from one another over time.
remembrance that you need to be able to keep your dreams within reach.
Flutterby Butterfly (collection starting 9690€ ttc)
The collections that can be discovered at
The butterfly is symbol of transformation;
Morphée Joaillerie’s first pop-up event
the beauty of life’s continuous unfolding that
include:
one tries to seize and preserve but is forever
Cherry Blossoms (collection starting 950€ ttc) Cherry Blossoms are a symbol of beauty and happiness that flourishes only but once a
fleeting – a symbol transposed into gold and diamonds, forever lasting. The Flight (collection starting 20,700€ ttc)
year. Ephemeral, a precious moment that is to
The swallow bird, a good omen, returns
be seized, like love. What woman does not
every year to announce the commencement
desire a bouquet of flowers as eternal as the
of spring. To be able to love someone to the
love she will carry for the one who gifts them
point of setting them free, hoping they
to her?
eternally return with spring in their heart.
Make A Wish (collection starting 1075€ ttc)
Page 133
Page 134
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
Cherry Blossoms
Page 135
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
Make A Wish
Page 136
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
Tiny Hugger
Page 137
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
Millésime
Page 138
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
Page 139
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
Flutterby Butterfly
Page 140
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
Page 141
Photo courtesy of MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE © MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SAVOIR-FAIRE
The Flight
Page 142
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BOUCHERON Seven diamonds with exceptional colors Page 143
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BOUCHERON PRESENTS 7 DIAMONDS WITH EXCEPTIONAL COLORS Frédéric Boucheron was a visionary
Found only in certain geographical areas
jeweler. His collections always displayed
such as Brazil, West Africa and some regions
leading-edge forms, innovative techniques,
of Australia, out of 10,000 carats produced,
and gemstones with character. This passion for
only 1 carat will come out with a hue. The
rare and exceptional stones led him - and his
chances of that coloration being intense are
heirs after him - to travel the world and to
even lower; 1 in 25,000.
forge ties with the world’s greatest stone traders in search of the most dazzling sparkles. For nearly 160 years, the workshops have maintained this tradition and focus on the
It is hard to give a value to these special diamonds and to make comparisons, but every time one is uncovered there is unparalleled enthusiasm.
emotions inspired by the stones. With innovation always a priority, the craftsmen and women of the first jeweler of Place Vendôme c re at e e x t ra o rd i n a r y p i e c e s s e t w i t h
We invite you to discover those 7 amazing diamonds in this article but also in one Boucheron boutique.
characterful stones, unique in their kind. This
Created by Frederic Boucheron in 1858,
passion is reflected in each of the High
Boucheron is built through four generations of
Jewelry collections.
direct descendants. Visionary designer and
You have to be born under a lucky star for the chance to hold a colored diamond in your hand one day. As they represent less than 0.1% of the world’s production of rough diamonds, they are the most coveted
first jeweler of the Place Vendôme, Boucheron embodies excellence in Jewelry, High Jewelry and Watchmaking. The Boucheron style, free and audacious, continues to create the classics of tomorrow.
diamonds in the world.
There are currently more than 55
As rare as they are precious, colored diamonds are the result of natural accidents that generate an unforeseeable coloring of the
Boucheron boutiques across the world. Boucheron is part of Kering, a worldwide leader in luxury and lifestyle.
d i a m o n d .
Page 144
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Page 145
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Page 146
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
DIAMANT POLAIRE This stone, with its unique colour and shape, is a real treasure of nature. Deep orange colored diamonds are among the rarest colored diamonds in the world.
 It is practically impossible to find any above 2 carats.
Page 147
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Page 148
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
ETERNITY Cut from the same gemstone, the three diamonds have been given a pear shape, revisiting the Boucheron drop motif. The form given to the necklace is a tribute to the FrĂŠdĂŠric Boucheron legendary questionmark necklace. Eternity Necklace Necklace set with a 3,48 ct pear Fancy Deep Blue diamond and a 1,00 ct pear diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Eternity Earrings Pendant earrings set with one 1,82 ct Fancy Deep Blue diamond and one 1,73 ct pear Fancy Deep Blue diamond, two 0,50 ct round diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.
Page 149
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Page 150
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
NEVESTA NECKLACE Necklace set with a 6,02 ct pear yellow green diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold.
Page 151
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Page 152
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
LOVELY RING Ring set with a 2,05 ct pear Fancy Intense Pink diamond, paved with diamonds, on platinum.
Page 153
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Page 154
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
LISERET RING Ring set with a 1,06 ct round Fancy Intense Purplish Pink diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold.
Page 155
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Page 156
iStock.com/phototropic
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
LAPIS LAZULI The breathtaking beauty of gems Page 157
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
LAPIS LAZULI By Eva Kountouraki “Ultramarine blue is a color illustrious,
jewels and religious decorations were carved
beautiful, and most perfect, beyond all other
out of lapis lazuli, and it has also accompanied
colors; one could not say anything about it nor
ancient Egypt’s kings and queens from their
do anything with it, that its quality would not
everyday life jewelry until eternity, in the form
still surpass. And, because of its excellence, I
of protective amulets buried with them forever
want to discuss it at length, and to show you in
in their sarcophagi... And, although this
detail how it is made. And pay close attention
material was not mined in Egypt, the most
to this, for you will gain great honor and
important Egyptian artifacts ever found,
service from it.” [...] “To begin with, get some
contain lapis lazuli gemstones and sculptures.
lapis lazuli. Pound it in a bronze mortar, and bear in mind that the more finely you work it up, the finer the blue will come out”. In his “Libro dell’Arte” or else Book of Art, written around 1400, Cennino Cennini praises and explains the method of creation and use of a very special pigment which derives from a precious material, lapis lazuli.
Lapis lazuli is not a mineral, nor a crystal, but a rock, as it is a massive aggregate composed of several minerals in varying quantities. What gives it its magnificent blue colour is the presence of the mineral lazurite, which is veined with white calcite, spotted with the metallic sparkle of pyrite and combined with a variety of other minerals, all bonded
It is the same dust pigment, ultramarine
together to form an opaque and majestic rock.
blue, that the “Lady of all women”, this glorious
Lapis lazuli is an ancient material that humans
entity called Nefertiti, used to mix with
have been mining and using since the 7th
perfumed oils and apply it around her eyes, as
millennium BC. However, its unusual rocky
a means of emphasizing her beauty, in an
nature grants it its unique and “always-new”
ancient, yet creative and surprisingly
aspect, as no piece of lapis is the same as the
contemporary make-up method. Since
next one.
antiquity, high quality lapis lazuli pieces travelled the world with merchants’ caravans from the Bactrian region (modern Afghanistan) to reach the great cities of the Roman Empire, ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt, where lapis was largely used for sacred objects and regalia. Statues of Gods, symbolic
The oldest and most prolific source of lapis lazuli is a difficult mountainous terrain at a high altitude on the great mountain system of Hindu Kush of central Asia. The collision of the Indian subcontinent and the Eurasian plate which created the Himalayas about fifty-five
Page 158
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
million years ago, and the geologic
Designers of important jewelry brands use it
metamorphism it brought forth, is
today to create one-of-a-kind pieces, just like
responsible for the mechanisms that gave
all the most important and historic paintings
birth to the beautiful lapis rocks. This is a
depicting Virgin Mary contain lapis lazuli dust
harsh and barren area that can only be
in the precious Ultramarine Blue that colours
reached on foot, while all the equipment
her famous blue mantle.
required for the rock breaking and extraction are carried by hand and on the back of donkeys. Many kilograms of lapis bearing rock are released, loaded on the animals, and through a painstaking days-long walk, they are carried at a lower level to the cities, in order to be furtherly processed. These same mines that were producing lapis lazuli some 6500 years ago, continue producing today,
Lapis lazuli will never be boring; its magic blue colour and surprising appearance will enchant your eyes.
Think of that, a
more-than-6000-years long walk to the top of the mountain and down, and it’s worth it. At the end of the day, all beautiful things are hard to get; it’s a long way to the top if you wanna rock n’ roll..
making them the oldest commercial gem source. Other sources include the Chilean Andes and the Lake Baikal region in Russia among other minor ones, but the highest quality material still comes from Badakshan, Afghanistan. As mentioned above, renaissance master painters would grind gem-quality lapis lazuli in order to obtain ultramarine blue, the most expensive and exclusive blue pigment. From the mesmerizing eyes of Queen Nefertiti, to the exceptional Chinese sculptures and from the Chilean protective amulets to the ancient Roman decorative inlays, lapis lazuli will always find a way to accompany humans.
Page 159
Public domain / Rijksmuseum
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Page 160
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
Page 161
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
ITALIAN-DESIGN Breathtaking unique pieces
A hallmark that finds its inspiration in
a foregone conclusion. Italian Design
history and nature; design, colour and the
reproposes the style and traditions of a past
highest quality materials blend together to
where famous names like Tiffany, Pomellato,
give life to unique and memorable pieces. All
Bulgari, and a few others had the ability and
this plus the desire of bringing Italian creativity
strength to create jewellery on commission,
to the world. Silvia and Alberto Prandoni,
customized to each individual desire, for that
young siblings from Piedmont, first dreamed
particular woman who would have worn it on
about and then created Italian-Design in
that specific occasion.
Cuneo in 2011.
“We want to go back to haute jewellery
“We grew up among jewellery and
design choosing stones and materials of
watches. Our parents always worked in this
absolute quality, interpreted with an original
sector. Alberto attended his first trade fair in
design that will adapt to and reflect individual
Basel when he was just two years old! After
personalities. For this reason we create unique
completing our studies and individual
pieces or a limited number of up to eight
experiences, we found ourselves sharing the
pieces. We propose colour variations and
same aspiration: producing our own line of
modifications to perfectly satisfy the desires of
jewellery that would distinguish itself from
those who turn to us for our customization
what the market offered and be the result of
capabilities”.
original design research whose reference would be the important creative lesson that Italy was able to bestow throughout the 20th century. Nonetheless we have not neglected casting a glance on the world, in a very enriching formative exchange to achieve our own convincing expressive figure. And from that moment, certain of our strength and driven by our passion, our jewellery has undergone a difficult but stimulating international comparison. These are our two starting points while being, at the same time,
This has nothing to do with a market where famous names live on their glorious past reputations with a public that adapts to standard jewellery produced in large numbers. The haute jewellery of Italian Design imagines and creates unconventional jewellery made with a precious structure and small twists of events that are occasionally ironic. This jewellery represents episodes, moments, and moods: jewellery as a depiction of the imagination.
the cardinal points of our research”.
“We want to repropose a taste for fun,
Carving out a niche in a very crowded global market does not seem evident nor is it
with jewellery that surprises and takes those who wear it by surprise, breaking the mould of the many worn out models seen a thousand
Page 162
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
times before. We design rings, bracelets or
unusual stones treated with unusual cuts. For
necklaces as if they were living objects with
example, in the Lava ring, the Mexican opal
their own personal stories. Our sources of
was cut irregularly or emeralds are cut in a
inspiration are history, with its myths and
sugar loaf style. The constant is given by the
many legends that find expression in the
exclusive choice of noble materials and
Historica line, or the explosion and the
natural stones.
richness of nature that is exalted in the Naturalia line that surprises with the colours of a flower, the traces of a leaf or the setting of a seascape, and finally the Cosmo line, with the mysteries and the lights of heaven and the constellations.”
“We would like to reiterate that the product is not our focus, but the person is with his or her desires, dreams, tastes and cultural heritage. Our approach enables us to reach the individual and to interpret his or her requests. It is certainly a less direct path
Artifacts that create emotional bond with
but one that gives great satisfaction. As for
the buyer, by encouraging a private and
the Russian market, we were literally
continuously new dialogue with him or her.
enchanted by St. Petersburg and its
Each piece of the Italian Design collection is
architecture. That is why we are creating
enriched with photos and details regarding
jewellery that recounts this strong inspiration.
the sources of inspiration, so that every
Russian customers who are very competent
individual can in turn recount the origins of
and willing to distinguish themselves from
their piece of jewellery in the encounters that
the masses will appreciate our philosophy”.
will accompany him or her. Explicit care and attention is given to this haute jewellery capable of harmonizing new technologies with handcrafted care for detail, finding a balance between present, past, and future.
Even the communication campaign of this young brand focuses on a direct relationship with clients taking full advantage of new technologies to reach every part of the world. The www.italian-design.it website
“We are convinced that we must return to
presents 3D animations of the jewellery
the right measure, that is a few carefully
bringing each individual into the atmosphere
chosen quality pieces, forgoing standardized
and specific workmanship of each creation.
and undistinguished quantities. Our desire is
Without presumption or indifference, direct
to become the interpreters of this changed
relationships are fomented through the
attitude even through a pricing policy that
“Facebook” social networking site with a
focuses on the value of the gemstones and
page that indicates every new development.
materials rather than on secondary costs”.
Italian Design’s presence on Louise Via Roma
The variety of stones and forms as well as the themes used open to an encounter with
with 3D animations enables an interaction with an ideal audience.
the most diverse cultures on the vast global market. Colour, which is very present in each collection, is expressed through the choice of
Page 163
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
Amethyst necklace
Page 164
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
ALHAMBRA Ring (open)
Page 165
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
ALHAMBRA Ring
Page 166
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
THE PROTAGONISTS
rubellite, … which have become the
Two different personalities that work in
hallmarks of Italian Design’s jewellery.
constant comparison with each other.
“Alberto has a creative personality with
Silvia Prandoni: after having completed secondary school with an emphasis on humanities she graduated in Business Administration at Bocconi University in Milan. During her studies, Silvia took two long formative trips abroad; first she did an internship at Ferrero in Mexico and then took
the ability to draw some of the jewels in our collections, and direct other designers by providing the inspiration for new collections. He is responsible for the production, collaborating with our manufacturers, and identifying the finest goldsmiths according to the creation of a specific piece of jewellery”.
a six-month course in New Zealand. After
At the Jewellery Historian we admire their
graduating, she worked at Procter & Gamble
work. The design is iconic, the craftsmanship
in Rome in the marketing department, then
is amazing and the final pieces are always
for Reckitt Benkiser. Silvia’s most important
breathtaking. It is an honor for us to introduce
experiences were those related to her
our readers to such amazing works of art.
character development and understanding of the workplace. “I have a pragmatic personality and large companies have taught me an approach to problem solving. In our company I deal with management, communication and marketing”. A l b e r t o Pr a n d o n i : a f t e r h a v i n g completed commercial school he attended the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America), the most competent institute in the world for the certification of gems where he received the title of gemmologist for both diamonds and coloured gemstones. His vast knowledge and passion for precious stones pushed him to begin buying different, lesser-known gemstone varieties compared to the classics such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires: extremely rare stones such as Paraiba tourmalines or Australian, Mexican, and Ethiopian opals, or tanzanite, and
Page 167
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
ALHAMBRA Ring (open)
Page 168
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
MERMAID Ring
Page 169
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
CORALIA CAVE Ring
Page 170
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
PARAIBA Earrings
Page 171
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
CORALIA SPONGE Ring
Page 172
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
SNOW WHITE BLACK Ring
Page 173
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
SWAN Ring
Page 174
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
ALHAMBRA BLUE PEARL Ring
Page 175
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
SEA ANEMONE Earrings
Page 176
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
LAVA Ring (back)
Page 177
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
LAVA Ring (side)
Page 178
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
LAVA Necklace
Page 179
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
LAVA Earrings
Page 180
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
Page 181
Photo courtesy of ITALIAN-DESIGN © ITALIAN-DESIGN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BREATHTAKING UNIQUE PIECES
LAVA Bracelet
Page 182
BULGARI
Sophisticated Enchantment Page 183
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
BULGARI Sophisticated Enchantment
Launched in 2016 and embodying the reptile symbol flirting with the borders of High
comfort and a delightfully sensual feel for the woman who slides it onto her wrist.
Jewelllery and Haute Horlogerie, Serpenti Incantati testifies to the intensely adaptable nature of this design icon. Through four new 2017 versions, the powerful fascination of this watch -that is exceptional in many ways- shines and sparkles through its tourbillon movement and its jewellery settings.
In its jewellery version set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the snow-set dial and bezel create a particularly refined and dainty aesthetic effect. The entire watch is naturally made of gold. It embraces the wrist with a discreet. perfectly elegant and refined satin strap, or with a diamond-set bracelet graced with a
Since its recent introduction, Serpenti
pure design -and which is in itself a jewellery
Incantati has exercised an ever-growing
creation bearing the inimitable Bulgari
appeal. What could be more natural for a
signature. Taking the collection into a whole
serpent designed to be enchanting, or
new dimension, the Serpenti Incantati
incantati as the Italians say ? This highly
Tourbillon Lumière watches bring the magic
exclusive and very rare Haute Horlogerie
of two enhancements cherished by Haute
model is a precious watch that remains as
Horlogerie : the tourbillon regulator and
a p p e a l i n g a s e v e r. I t s i m p e c c a b l e
skeleton-working. The mechanical
stone-setting naturally make it a gem of time
hand-wound movement crafted in gold has
bearing the inimitable touch of the Roman
been finely sculpted and open-worked to
jewellery. Elegant and sensual, imbued with
allow light to pour into the heart of the watch
that touch of fanciful sophistication, one
through its sapphire crystals. It is enlivened by
expects from Italian chic, it also charms
the ventral activity of the tourbillon, while its
observers by its fascinating construction.
distinctive luminosity gives it a spectacular and
By coiling around the watch dial, rather that forming the case itself, the reptile displays
unique sparkle that makes this precious watch truly incandescent.
a particularly supple facet of its nature. For the fully jewelled version, Bulgari has specifically devised for it a cleverly articulated system ensuring a superbly smooth flow. Visually, this creates the impression that the diamond-studded serpent is actually in motion. In concrete terms, it ensures perfect
Page 184
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 185
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 186
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 187
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 188
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 189
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 190
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 191
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 192
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 193
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 194
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 195
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 196
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 197
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 198
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 199
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 200
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 201
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 202
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 203
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 204
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 205
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 206
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 207
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 208
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 209
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SOPHISTICATED ENCHANTMENT
Page 210
Photo courtesy of Lin Mei | Unsplash
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SHOWCASE
SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN
SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT
VHERNIER
ANABELA CHAN
THEODOROS
MARKIN
ELEUTERI
BOUCHERON
BUDDHA MAMA
ANDRE MARCHA
SANDRA BILOÉ
DAVID MORRIS NIKOS KOULIS
To see more of our favorite jewellery, follow us on www.instagram.com/jewellery_historian Page 212
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN
ADRESS BOOK BRANDS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE
ANABELA CHAN
MARKIN
www.anabelachan.com
www.vladimirmarkin.com
ANDRE MARCHA
NIKOS KOULIS
www.andremarcha.com
www.nikoskoulis.gr
ARTISTAR JEWELLERY 2018
MICHO KOIDE
www.artistarjewels.com
www.instagram.com/michio_koide
BOUCHERON
MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
www.boucheron.com
www.morphee-joaillerie.com
BUDDHA MAMA
SANDRA BILOÉ
www.buddhamama.com
www.instagram.com/sandrabiloejoailleriemc
BULGARI
STÉPHANIE CACHARD
www.bulgari.com
www.stephaniecachard.com
DAVID MORRIS
SOTHEBY’S
www.davidmorris.com
www.sothebys.com
ELEUTERI
THEODOROS
www.eleuteri.nyc
www.theodoros.com.gr
ITALIAN-DESIGN
UDOZZO
www.italian-design.it
www.udozzo.com
GUCCI
VHERNIER
www.gucci.com
www.vhernier.it
JULIEN RIAD SAHYOUN
VON URBANOVSKY
www.jsay.com
www.vonurbanovsky.com
Page 213