JEWELLERY HISTORIAN #28 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

THE

BEST

KEPT

SECRET

THE

WORLD

LUXYRY

FENG J. Bespoke collections inspired from an adventurous curiosity by an exceptional artist.

FROM CENTURIES PAST TO THE PRESENT DAY

Three world class diamonds, cut 300 years apart, will lead Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spring sale of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in Geneva.

GUCCI

Gucci introduces the Gucci Ouroboros jewelry line, inspired by an ancient Egyptian symbol which depicts the form of a snake eating its own tail.

GOLDEN KINGDOMS: LUXURY AND LEGACY IN THE ANCIENT AMERICAS

Last days for an exceptional exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of New York.

CONTENTS

127

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com

FOUNDER | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA)

ASSOCIATE EDITOR | Christina Rodopoulou CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE | Panayiotis Simopoulos GEMOLOGY EDITOR | Eva Kountouraki, G.G (GIA)

COVER | Mayer George /Shutterstock

All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CONTENTS | ISSUE 26

131

DAVIDE MAULE

FEI LIU

Welcome to the world of Davide Maule, Master Goldsmith of profession, sculptor and painter by avocation; a universe made of creativity, flair and imagination.

Critically acclaimed, award-winning jewellery designer, Fei Liu, has an undeniably unique aesthetic, celebrating the beauty of femininity.

BOUCHERON

ULYSSE NARDIN

A true aesthete, Fréderic Boucheron was fascinated by the beauties of nature. He loved the wild and always interpreted it free and triumphant. Discover an exceptional new collection.

Ulysse Nardin, watchmaker of the oceans, is proud to announce its partnership with free diver and photographer Buyle.

154

ASHOKA BY WILLIAM GOLDBERG

SHOWCASE

Imagine creating a diamond whose beauty is without compare. A diamond so rare, only a fortunate few will ever possess it.

Previously known as OUR FAVES, this new column is a window to a new world of craftsmanship, beauty and creativity. Discover amazing jewellery and timepieces and a unique new experience.

172 ZOLOTAS “COUTURE”

111

Few days ago the ZOLOTAS House of jewelry presented COUTURE, its new jewelry collection hosted at the Embassy of France in Athens. Discover in avant-première the new collection.

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ADRESS BOOK Discover the addresses of all brands featured in this issue and visit their online stores and websites to discover their amazing creative universe.

EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LETTER

EDITOR’S LETTER

pring is one of my favorite seasons. Most people I know prefer the beach days of summer or the beautiful colors of Fall, but I prefer spring. The rebirth of nature, or as I prefer “Renaissance of nature” results to amazing beauty and awakening of all the senses. The windows can finally open to welcome not only fresh air and the gentle

breeze but also color and scents. Nature wears an amazing dress that could be designed by one of the most talented couturiers. Blossoms cover grass as they fall, orange and lemon flowers perfume the streets I walk every day and I am definitely happy, because I can enjoy the city and nature with comfortable temperatures, and with a nice weather. European Renaissance of the 14th–17th centuries brought a radical transformation of the sciences, the humanities and politics. Building on the invention of the printing press, information was democratized, there was a hunger for literacy and the Catholic Church's near-monopoly on knowledge was challenged. The resulting breakthroughs took Europe from being one of the more backward regions of the world to being the most advanced by far. When the Jewellery Historian was founded four years ago, in 2012, most people I knew tried to convince me not to start this “crazy” project. But I needed to start this project, to promote design & designers, with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery & watch design as a form of creative expression, to educate, inspire and to offer all this beauty to readers around the globe. After all, luxury is not an industry, but a global language. The Jewellery Historian has a strong focus on design and craftsmanship, thereby promoting artists who aren't necessarily part of the latest trend, but whose body of work shows an affinity for quality and taste over a longer period of time. The main goal of our publication is to be a celebration of innovation and creativity, a publication about the talented artists and about the people that create exceptional jewellery and unique timepieces. We showcase artists and brands whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. With each issue we invite our readers to explore the stories of passionate people and the motivations behind their inspirational lifestyles all these, wrapped up in beautiful words, illustration and photography, and collected into a beautifully designed print artifact. This new issue arrived quite late this year, because of many problems we had to solve, and we kindly ask you to excuse us, but we are sure it will allow you to discover the passion and the stories hidden behind the breathtaking result of the final art.

FOUNDER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JEWELLERY HISTORIAN MAGAZINE

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

WORLD-CLASS DIAMONDS  FROM CENTURIES PAST TO THE PRESENT DAY Three world class diamonds, cut 300 years

Blue, this spring. In the Magnificent Jewels

apart, will lead Sotheby’s spring sale of

section of the sale, two exceptional perfect

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in

white diamonds, each weighing over 50

Geneva. All three diamonds are extremely rare

carats, take their places alongside an

and extraordinarily beautiful. The first is The

impressive selection of coloured diamonds.

Farnese Blue, a highly important 6.16-carat

With superb Kashmir sapphires leading the

historic blue diamond given to Elisabeth

way for coloured gemstones, and a wonderful

Farnese, Queen of Spain in 1715, before

array of signed pieces led by Cartier and Van

being passed down through four of Europe’s

Cleef & Arpels, this will be a fitting celebration

most important royal families (Lot 377,

of the season!”

Estimate CHF 3.5 – 5 million / $3.6 – 5.2 million). Alongside it will be two highly impressive white diamonds, each one weighing over 50 carats, with a combined estimate of over $15 million. The white diamonds are both perfect according to all the critical criteria by which diamonds are measured, and each of them is also the second largest of its shape ever to have come to auction (Lots 350 and 373). Alongside these highlights, our flagship sale on 15 May at Mandarin Oriental, Geneva will

THE FARNESE BLUE This superb gem, one of the foremost historic diamonds known to man, will appear on the market for the first time in May, after having remained in the same family for over three centuries. Given to Elisabeth Farnese, Queen of Spain (1692-1766), the legendary diamond has subsequently passed down through four of the most important royal families in Europe: Spain, France, Italy and Austria.

also include exceptional coloured diamonds,

Witness to 300 years of European history,

coloured gemstones of the finest quality and

from the aftermath of the Spanish succession

geographical origin, and emblematic signed

War to the fall of the Habsburg Empire, the

pieces by the world’s most renowned

diamond has travelled across the continent for

Jewellery houses.

centuries. And all this time, it was kept secretly

Speaking ahead of the sale, David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery division, commented, “After 10 very successful years of Noble Jewels sales in Geneva, we are delighted to offer such an important historical diamond, The Farnese

in a royal jewellery case. Excepting close relatives and of course the family jewellers, no one knew of its existence. The 6.16-carat pear shaped blue diamond will be offered with an estimate of CHF 3.5 - 5 million / $ 3.7 - 5.3 million (dedicated press release available).

Left page : Lot 302, Property From A Private Collection, Diamond, Onyx and Emerald 'Double Panther' Bracelet, Cartier, France Estimate $275/375,000 Page 8

The Farnese Blue Historic and highly important fancy dark grey-blue diamond weighing 16.16 carats Estimate: CHF 3,500,000 – 5,000,000 / US$ 3,690,000 – 5,270,000 Page 9

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

The Farnese Blue Historic and highly important fancy dark grey-blue diamond weighing 16.16 carats Estimate: CHF 3,500,000 – 5,000,000 / US$ 3,690,000 – 5,270,000 Page 10

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

The Farnese Blue Historic and highly important fancy dark grey-blue diamond weighing 16.16 carats Estimate: CHF 3,500,000 – 5,000,000 / US$ 3,690,000 – 5,270,000 Page 12

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

TWO PERFECT WHITE DIAMONDS OVER

by the Swiss Gemmological Institute - SSEF

50 CARATS

and the Gübelin Gem Lab. Weighing an

Also certain to turn heads at Sotheby’s in May are two exceptional white diamonds, which are perfect according to all the critical criteria against which the world’s greatest diamonds are measured.

impressive 15.91 carats, the gemstone is described by Gübelin as having “a richly s at u rat e d a n d h o m o g e n e o u s c o l o u r, combined with a high degree of transparency and a finely proportioned cut.” (lot 359, estimate CHF 1,755,000 – 2,725,000 / $

The stones, a 50.39-carat oval diamond

1,840,000– 2,860,000).

and a 51.71-carat round brilliant-cut diamond, are D- Colour (the most coveted hue for white diamonds), have Flawless clarity and belong to the highly rarefied ‘Type IIa’ group, made up of just 2% of gem diamonds with the highest optical transparency. The diamonds were discovered and purchased at tender in Botswana.

Boasting highly coveted “royal blue” colour, this captivating sapphire was also discovered in Kashmir, as confirmed by the SSEF and Gübelin. A wonderfully opulent piece, the striking 1930s ring design is a fitting celebration of this extraordinary 14.01-carat gemstone (lot 365, estimate CHF 950,000 – 1,430,000 / $ 1,000,000 –

From the same collection, a pair of fancy

1,500,000).

intense yellow diamond pendent earrings is sure to catch the eye of Jewellery experts and enthusiasts. The perfect accessories for spring and summer, the two ravishing pear-shaped diamonds weigh 5.12 and 5.79 carats respectively (lot 349, estimate CHF 250,000 – 345,000 / $ 250,000 – 350,000).

A third exceptional Kashmir sapphire completes this rarefied group: a beautiful step-cut gem weighing 11.64 carats and described by the SSEF as exhibiting “a remarkable size and weight... combined with an attractive and homogeneous blue colour and a very fine purity.” (lot 351, estimate CHF

EXCEPTIONAL SAPPHIRES FROM KASHMIR

830,000 – 1,160,000 / $ 860,000 – 1,200,000). PERIOD JEWELS OF ILLUSTRIOUS

Sapphires from Kashmir are widely

PROVENANCE

regarded as the most beautiful in the world and their colour has long placed them among the most highly sought-after gems at auction. The May sale in Geneva will offer several stunning examples, which will leave visitors to the pre-sale exhibition in no doubt

In addition to The Farnese Blue, Sotheby’s enters the 11th year of its Noble Jewels sales with a selection of very fine period jewels with illustrious aristocratic provenance.

as to why they are so prized.

Jewellery lovers will have the opportunity to acquire this impressive and beautiful

The Kashmir origin of this cushion-shaped sapphire has been certified

diamond tiara from the 1830s. Of foliate scroll design, it comes from the collection of

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Fine sapphire and diamond ring Estimate: CHF 1,755,000 – 2,725,000 / US$ 1,840,000 – 2,860, 000 Page 14

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

a European princely family (lot 376, estimate

distinguish Cartier’s work at this time is a very

CHF 120,000 – 180,000 / $ 120,000 –

fine gem set and diamond necklace. These

180,000).

features include the striking contrast of white

This remarkable emerald jewel, created in the 1930s with an extraordinary cabochon emerald as its centrepiece, is ingeniously designed so that the emerald can also be worn as a brooch. It is reputed to have come from a maharaja’s turban, and was acquired and remounted by Pierre Cartier in Paris. In

diamonds with onyx and the bold rectangular shapes of the tapered necklace, the diamond and black lacquer detailing on the pendant, and the colourful touch of rubies, sapphires and emeralds in the detachable lower section (lot 324, estimate CHF 200,000 – 300,000 / $ 200,000 – 400,000).

addition to its fabulous design and

A design dreamed up in the 1930s by

appearance, the jewel also has a fascinating

the Duchess of Windsor, the “Zip” necklace

story. It was originally owned by socialite Mrs

was finally brought to life by Van Cleef and

Laura Mae Corrigan (1879 – 1948), who from

Arpels in the 1950s – widely regarded as the

humble origins as the daughter of a

period of their greatest influence. The May

Wisconsin handyman was to become known

sale in Geneva will offer this fabulous

as “America’s Salon Queen” and later

necklace, set with diamonds, sapphires,

“London’s Social General”.

rubies and emeralds which, thanks to the

Mrs Corrigan gave the jewel as a generous gift to her great friend Edith, Marchioness of Londonderry OBE (1878 – 1959), one of London’s great social and political hostesses in the interwar period. Edith was so taken with the gift that she

iconic design, can also be worn as a bracelet. The piece is paired with matching ear clips. A stunning, colourful example of a piece almost synonymous with this illustrious Jewellery house (lot 325, estimate CHF 50,000 – 65,000 / $ 50,000 – 70,000).

named it the Corrigan Emerald Bracelet and

Animals and birds have long been a

included it in her album dedicated to her very

central theme in Cartier’s creations, going

fine Jewellery collection, The Londonderry

back as far as the First World War. This

Jewels (lot 320, estimate CHF 340,000 –

d e l i g h t f u l ‘ Pa r r o t ’ r i n g , s e t w i t h a

475,000 / $ 355,000 – 495,000).

cushion-shaped very light pink diamond

EMBLEMATIC SIGNED JEWELS INCLUDING CARTIER AND VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

weighing 3.77 carats is a lovely example of the extraordinary detail and execution brought to these pieces. With its beak of

It is widely recognized that the 1930s

mother-of-pearl and twinkling emerald-set

were the golden era of Cartier’s Jewellery

eyes, this charming creature is sure to bring a

production, a decade in which the illustrious

breath of fresh spring air to proceedings in

house produced some of its finest and most

Geneva (lot 337, estimate CHF

iconic designs. Bringing together many of the key stylistic features and materials which

200,000 – 385,000 / $ 200,000 – 400,000).

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TWO OF THE LARGEST, PUREST WHITE

Testament to the increasingly global

DIAMONDS EVER TO COME TO AUCTION

n a t u re o f t h e m a r ke t , 5 0 c o u n t r i e s

Sell for a combined total of CHF 17.4 m

participated in today’s “Magnificent Jewels

($17.4m) Both weighing over 50 carats &

and Noble Jewels” sale which also saw strong

perfect by all critical criteria

results for other white and coloured

Tonight, three world-class diamonds, discovered 300 years apart, dazzled in Sotheby’s Geneva jewellery sale. One of the foremost historic diamonds known to man, The Farnese Blue, soared to CHF 6,719,750

diamonds, signed pieces and jewels with aristocratic provenance and concluded with a combined total of CHF 85,705,050 ($ 85,629,630) (est. CHF 62.5 – 88 million / $62.2 – 87.6 million).

($6,713,837), well above estimate (lot 377,

Speaking after the sale, Daniela Mascetti,

est. CHF 3.5 – 5 million / $3.6 – 5.2 million).

Deputy Chairman, Sotheby’s Europe and

Given to Elisabeth Farnese, Queen of Spain,

Senior International Jewellery Specialist and

a s a w e d d i n g p re s e n t i n 1 7 1 5 a n d

said: “The timeless appeal of diamonds was

subsequently passed down through four of

reasserted tonight in Geneva, with three

the most important royal families in Europe,

exceptional stones cut centuries apart

the mesmerising 6.16-carat pear-shaped blue

capturing the attention of international

diamond was appearing on the market for

collectors. The Farnese Blue is quite simply an

the first time this evening, after three

unforgettable diamond, and everyone who

centuries in the same family.

set their eyes on it was mesmerized by its

Alongside it were two highly impressive white diamonds, a 51.71-carat round diamond and a 50.39-carat oval diamond which both sold above the high estimate for CHF 9,260,000 ($9,251,851) (lot 350, est. CHF 7 – 7.7 million / $ 7.3 – 8 million) and CHF 8,131,000 / $ 8,123,845 (lot 376, est. CHF 7 – 7.7 million / $ 7.3 – 8 million) respectively. Discovered in Botswana, both

extraordinary colour: the rich blue of the deepest ocean. As was evidenced by the competition between bidders this evening, the response from collectors has matched our own excitement for this diamond. We were also delighted be the results achieved by the two white diamonds over 50 carats in the sale, whose colour, cut and clarity are synonymous with 21st-century perfection.”

stones are perfect according to all the critical

Other highlights in today’s sale include:

criteria against which the world’s greatest

DIAMONDS AND COLOURED GEMSTONES

diamonds are measured. They are D-Colour (the most coveted hue for white diamonds), have Flawless clarity and belong to the highly rarefied ‘Type IIa’ group, made up of just 2% of gem diamonds with the highest optical transparency.

A superb 2.63 carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond realised CHF 2,415,000 ($2,412,875) – an auction record for a fancy vivid purplish pink diamond. It is cut in a round modified brilliant-cut shape, which allows the extraordinary hue and life of the stone to be shown to their full potential (lot

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From the collection of the Marchioness of Londonderry, Mount Stewart Impressive emerald and diamond bracelet, 1930s Estimate: CHF 340,000 – 475,000 / US$ 355,000 – 495, 000 Page 17

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Superb sapphire and diamond ring, 1930s Estimate: CHF 950,000 –1, 430,000 / US$ 1,000,000 – 1,500, 000 Page 18

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

374, estimate CHF 1,920,000 – 2,880,000 / $

carats made CHF 1,455,000 ($1,453,720) (lot

2,000,000 – 3,000,000).

351, estimate CHF 830,000 – 1,160,000 / $

An impressive pink sapphire and

8 6 0 , 0 0 0 – 1 , 2 0 0 , 0 0 0 ) .

diamond pendant, set with an oval pink sapphire weighing 95.45 carats brought CHF

PERIOD JEWELS OF ILLUSTRIOUS

2,295,000 ($2,292,980) – an auction record

P R O V E N A N C E

for a pink sapphire (lot 372, est. CHF

In addition to The Farnese Blue, the sale

580,000-960,000 / $600,000-1,000,000).

included a selection of very fine period jewels

A Fancy Light Purplish Pink diamond weighing 9.70 carats sold for CHF 2,595,000 / $ 2,592,716, setting a new world auction record price and a world auction record price

with illustrious aristocratic provenance, which totalled CHF 9.5 million ($9.5 million), far exceeding the pre-sale expectations (est. CHF 5.8-8.5 million / $6-8.7 million).

per carat for a Fancy Light Purplish Pink

An arresting 19th-century emerald cameo

diamond (lot 363, estimate CHF 480,000 –

and diamond bracelet generated a great deal

675,000 / $500,000 – 700,000).

of enthusiasm and sold for CHF 250,000

A Fancy Purple-Pink diamond ring weighing 5.04 carats sold for CHF 1,455,000 / $ 1,453,720 setting a new world auction

($249,780), four times the high estimate (lot 303, est. CHF 50,000-60,000 / $50,000-60,000).

record price and a new world auction record

E M B L E M AT I C S I G N E D J E W E L S B Y

price per carat for a Fancy Purple-Pink

CARTIER AND VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

diamond (lot 367, estimate CHF 1,160,000 – 1,730,000 / $1,200,000 – 1,800,000).

A gem set and diamond necklace, designed by Cartier in 1930s, a decade in which the

A highly unusual Fancy Vivid yellowish

illustrious house produced some of its finest

green diamond weighing 2.52 carats was

and most iconic designs brought CHF

purchased for CHF 939,000 / $ 938,174,

337,500 ($337,203), above estimate (lot 324,

setting a new world auction record price for a

est. CHF 200,000 – 300,000 / $ 200,000 –

Fancy Vivid yellowish green diamond (lot 335,

300,000).

estimate CHF 480,000 – 770,000 / $500,000 – 800,000).

Animals and birds have long been a central theme in Cartier’s creations, going back as far

Kashmir Sapphires were high in demand

as the First World War. A delightful ‘Parrot’

tonight: an opulent 1930s ring adorned with

ring, set with a cushion-shaped very light pink

a 4.01-carat gemstone boasting highly

diamond weighing 3.77 carats achieved CHF

coveted “royal blue” colour realised an

275,000 ($274,758) (lot 337, estimate CHF

above-estimate price of CHF 1,815,000

200,000 – 385,000 / $ 200,000 – 400,000).

($1,813,403) (lot 365, estimate CHF 950,000 – 1,430,000 / $ 1,000,000 – 1,500,000) and a beautiful step-cut sapphire weighing 11.64

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A fabulous example of the iconic “Zip”

*Estimates do not include buyer’s

necklace designed by Van Cleef and Arpels

premium. Prices achieved include the

in the 1950s – widely regarded as the period

hammer price plus buyer’s premium and are

of their greatest influence – sold for ten times

net of any fees paid to the purchaser where

the estimate at CHF 507,000 ($506,554).

the purchaser provided an irrevocable bid.

Thanks to its innovative design, the necklace set with diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds can also be worn as a bracelet and is paired with matching ear clips (lot 325, estimate CHF 50,000 – 65,000 / $50,000 – 7 0 , 0 0 0 ) .

Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744. Sotheby’s became the first international auction house when it expanded from London to New York (1955), the first to conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India (1992) and France (2001), and the first international fine art auction house in China (2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in 10 different salesrooms, including New York, London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s BidNow program allows visitors to view all auctions live online and place bids from anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers collectors the resources of Sotheby’s Financial Services, the world’s only full-service art financing company, as well as the collection advisory services of its subsidiary, Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents private sale opportunities in more than 70 categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two retail businesses, Sotheby’s Diamonds and Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global network of 80 offices in 40 countries and is the oldest company listed on the New York Stock Exchange (BID).

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Magnificent diamond ring The oval diamond weighing 50.39 carats Estimate: CHF 6,960,000 – 7,680,000 / US$ 7,250,000 – 8,000,000 Page 21

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Exceptional diamond ring The round brilliant-cut diamond weighing 51.71 carats Estimate: CHF 7,870,000 – 9,100,000 / US$ 8,200,000 – 9.500,000 Page 22

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

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From a princely family Impressive diamond tiara, circa 1830 Estimate: CHF 120,000 – 180,000 / US$ 120,000 – 180, 000 Page 24

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Cartier Fine gem set, onyx and diamond necklace, 1930s and later Estimate: CHF 200,000 – 385,000 / US$ 200,000 – 400, 000 Page 25

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Van Cleef & Arpels Gem set and diamond demi-parure, “Zipe”, 1950s Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 65,000 / US$ 50,000 – 70, 000 Page 26

Photo Photo courtesy courtesy of of SOTHEBY’S SOTHEBY’S © © SOTHEBY’S SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Cartier Very light pink diamond, gem set and diamond ring, “Parrot” Estimate: CHF 200,000 – 385,000 / US$ 200,000 – 400, 000 Page 27

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Superb fancy vivid purplish pink diamond ring Estimate: CHF 1,920,000 – 2,880,000 / US$ 2,000,000 – 3,000,000 Page 28

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

GUCCI

New Ouroboros jewelry line Page 29

Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW OUROBOROS JEWELRY LINE

GUCCI

New Ouroboros jewelry line

Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci is one of

Also joining this collection is a selection of

the world’s leading luxury fashion brands, with

playful and contemporary snake ring

a renowned reputation for creativity,

necklaces and pendants, designed to be worn

innovation and Italian craftsmanship. Gucci is

alone or with coordinating Gucci charms

part of the Kering Group, a world leader in

attached for a personalized look. Three are

apparel and accessories that owns a portfolio

s t r u n g w i t h v i b ra n t g e m s t o n e b ea d s

of powerful luxury, sports and lifestyle brands.

(turquoise, pearl, agate, coral, onyx and

Gucci introduces the Gucci Ouroboros jewelry line, inspired by an ancient Egyptian symbol which depicts the form of a snake eating its own tail. The Ouroboros is often associated with introspection and the infinite cycle of

carnelian) to form a snakeskin-inspired pattern, while two gleam in hand- polished sterling silver with an antique finish. For a chic layered look, several necklaces of different sizes can be worn at the same time.

nature’s endless creation and destruction. In

A colorful and creative expression of the new

this collection, the pieces are embellished with

House’s aesthetic, the Gucci Ouroboros

a feminine pavé of diamonds and gemstones

collection demonstrates the high level of

to reflect the unique coloring of the

craftsmanship for which Gucci is known.

Ouroboros snake.

At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to

The range includes five rings of different

introduce you the latest GUCCI collection,

widths and a special multi-finger ring, all

recently presented by the iconic brand.

crafted in 18kt yellow gold and decorated with precious stones including diamonds, black diamonds, red topaz, and sunset sapphires. A three-turn ring and a five-turn ring offer a stacked effect with statement appeal. The single ring is also available in plain yellow gold, highlighted with turquoise eyes, or encrusted with white diamond pavé for classic sparkle. Ideal for mixing and matching, the rings can be worn together to create a more dramatic effect.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW OUROBOROS JEWELRY LINE

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW OUROBOROS JEWELRY LINE

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW OUROBOROS JEWELRY LINE

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW OUROBOROS JEWELRY LINE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW OUROBOROS JEWELRY LINE

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Â© GUCCI

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW OUROBOROS JEWELRY LINE

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Golden Kingdoms: Luxury and Legacy in the Ancient Americas Pendant , Gold, Tolima, 1 B.C.–A.D. 700, Colombia, Museo del Oro, Banco de la República, Bogotá, Photo: Clark M. Rodríguez Page 37

Photo courtesy of THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM. Used with permission from the museum © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

Photo courtesy of UDOZZO © UDOZZO

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | GOLDEN KINGDOMS

METROPOLITAN MUSEUM Golden Kingdoms: Luxury and Legacy in the Ancient Americas Last days to visit this exceptional exhibition A major international loan exhibition

art from more than 50 organizations. This

featuring luxury arts created in the ancient

exhibition is the result of an intensive five-year

Americas is on view at The Metropolitan

research effort that brought together scholars

Museum of Art until May 28. Showcasing more

from across Latin America and the United

than 300 objects drawn from more than 50

States, and we're thrilled to share their

museums in 12 countries, Golden Kingdoms:

findings and these beautiful objects with our

Luxury and Legacy in the Ancient Americas will

visitors."

trace the development of goldworking and other luxury arts from Peru in the south to Mexico in the north from around 1000 B.C. to

The exhibition is made possible in part by DAVID YURMAN.

the arrival of Europeans in the early 16th

Additional support is provided by the

century. Emphasizing specific places and

Sherman Fairchild Foundation, Alice Cary

moments of extraordinary artistic

Brown and W.L. Lyons Brown, the Estate of

achievement, as well as the exchange of

Brooke Astor, the Lacovara Family Endowment

materials and aesthetic ideas across time and

Fund, William R. Rhodes, and The Daniel and

place, the exhibition will present a new

Estrellita Brodsky Foundation.

understanding of ancient American art and culture—one based on indigenous ideas of value—and cast new light on the brilliance of ancient American artists and their legacy. The

This exhibition is co-organized by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, the J. Paul Getty Museum, and the Getty Research Institute.

exhibition will feature spectacular works of art

Exhibition highlights include the exquisite

from recent archaeological excavations—

gold ornaments of the Lord of Sipán, the

crowns, pectorals, pendants, necklaces, ear

richest unlooted tomb in the ancient

and nose ornaments, labrets, masks, mantles,

Americas; the malachite funerary mask of a

goblets, vases, stelas, bells, painted books,

woman known as the Red Queen, from the

and more—that have rarely, if ever, left their

Maya site of Palenque; newly discovered ritual

country of origin.

offerings from the sacred precinct of the Aztec

Daniel H. Weiss, President and CEO of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, stated: "It is a great privilege for The Met to present this stunning assemblage of highly prized works of

Empire; and the "Fisherman's Treasure," a set of Mixtec gold ornaments plundered by Spanish conquistadors and destined for Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor and

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ART

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | GOLDEN KINGDOMS

Spanish king, but lost en route to Spain.

esteemed by the Olmecs and the Maya, while

Recovered from a shipwreck in the 1970s,

the Incas and the Aztecs prized feathers and

these final works are poignant reminders of

tapestry. In all places, artists and their patrons

the brilliant traditions of ancient America's

selected materials that could provoke a

lost golden kingdoms.

strong response—perceptually, sensually, and

"Ideas about artistic production in the ancient Americas have traditionally been

conceptually—and transport the wearer and beholder beyond the realm of the mundane.

based on works in ceramic and stone—objects

Golden Kingdoms will explore not only

of durable materials," said Joanne Pillsbury,

artistic practices but also the historical,

The Met's Andrall E. Pearson Curator of the

cultural, social, and political conditions in

Arts of the Ancient Americas. "But there were

which luxury arts were produced and

also exquisitely worked objects of rare and

circulated. The materials of ancient American

fragile materials—most of which were

luxury arts were closely associated with divine

destroyed at the time of the Spanish

power: they were made of materials thought

Conquest. Countless works of gold and silver

to have been emitted, inhabited, or

were melted down, and delicate native

consumed by gods. Luxury arts were also

manuscripts were deliberately burned as part

relatively small in scale, which meant they

of campaigns to stamp out native religions.

could be transported over vast distances as

And time has taken a heavy toll on

royal gifts or sacred offerings, thus serving as

featherworks and textiles, which were

a primary vehicle for the exchange of ideas

considered more precious than gold by many

across regions and through time. The

indigenous societies. What we present in this

exhibition will present a new portrait of the

show are not only spectacular artworks, but

ancient Americas—one unconstrained by

also rare and enormously important objects

today's national boundaries—revealing

that escaped destruction."

networks of artistic exchange in historical

In the ancient Americas, gold, silver, and

context.

copper were used primarily to create regalia

The exhibition is accompanied by a fully

and ritual objects—metals were only

illustrated catalogue published by the J. Paul

secondarily used to create weapons and

Getty Museum and the Getty Research

tools. First exploited in the Andes around

Institute, Los Angeles.

2000 B.C., gold was closely associated with the supernatural realm, and over the course of several thousand years the practice of making prestige objects in gold for rulers and deities gradually moved northward, into Central America and Mexico. But in many areas other materials were more highly valued. Jade, rather than gold, was most

Golden Kingdoms: Luxury and Legacy in the Ancient Americas is curated by The Met's Joanne Pillsbury, Andrall E. Pearson Curator of the Ancient Americas, in collaboration with Timothy Potts, Director of the J. Paul Getty Museum; and Kim Richter, Senior Research Specialist at the Getty Research Institute.

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ART

Photo courtesy of THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM. Used with permission from the museum © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | GOLDEN KINGDOMS

Ear Ornament Depicting a Warrior , Gold, turquoise, wood, Moche, A.D. 640–680  Peru, Sipán, Tomb of the Lord of Sipán (Tomb 1) Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán, Lambayeque, Peru, Ministerio de Cultura del Perú  Photo: Juan Pablo Murrugarra Villanueva Page 40

Photo courtesy of THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM. Used with permission from the museum © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | GOLDEN KINGDOMS

Burial Mask , Copper, gilded copper, shell, stone, Moche, A.D. 525–550, Peru, Dos Cabezas, Tomb 2  Museo de Sitio de Chan Chan, Huanchaco, Peru, Ministerio de Cultura del Perú Photo: Christopher B. Donnan Page 41

ART

Photo courtesy of THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM. Used with permission from the museum © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | GOLDEN KINGDOMS

Ceremonial Knift (Tumi) , Gold, silver, turquoise, Lambayeque (Sicán), A.D. 900–1100, Peru, North Coast  The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift and Bequest of Alice K. Bache, 1974, 1977 Page 42

Photo courtesy of THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM. Used with permission from the museum © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | GOLDEN KINGDOMS

Octopus Frontlet , Gold, chrysocolla, shells, Moche, A.D. 300–600, Peru, La Mina  Museo de la Nación, Lima, Ministerio de Cultura del Perú Page 43

ART

Photo courtesy of THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM. Used with permission from the museum © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | GOLDEN KINGDOMS

Bird-Man Pectoral , Gold, Cauca, A.D. 900–1600, Colombia  Museo del Oro, Banco de la República, Bogotá Photo: Clark M. Rodríguez Page 44

Photo courtesy of THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM. Used with permission from the museum © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | GOLDEN KINGDOMS

Serpent Labret with Articulated Tongue , Gold, Aztec, A.D. 1300–1521, Mexico  The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, 2015 Benefit Fund and Lila Acheson Wallace Gift, 2016 Page 45

ART

Photo courtesy of THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM. Used with permission from the museum © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | GOLDEN KINGDOMS

Pair of Ear Ornaments with Winged Runners , Gold, turquoise, sodalite, shell, Moche, A.D. 400–700, Peru, North Coast  The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift and Bequest of Alice K. Bache, 1966, 1977 Page 46

FEI LIU

Celebrating the beauty of femininity Page 47

Photo courtesy of FEI LIU Â© FEI LIU

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

FEI LIU Celebrating the beauty of femininity B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A

Critically acclaimed, award-winning jewellery designer, Fei Liu. Who has an undeniably unique

has opened a second concession in Beijing, and a further two stores in Chengdu and Hangzhou.

aesthetic, celebrating the beauty of femininity while demonstrating an eye-catching use of colour and form in groundbreaking techniques. By combining his life and experiences in the West with his Chinese heritage, Liu designs pieces that are not only visually creative, but that challenge preconceptions of luxury fine jewellery.

In 2015 Fei Liu Fine Jewellery celebrated its 10th anniversary, holding celebratory events in London, Birmingham and Beijing. Each event showcased Liu’s jewellery from his core range as well as his bespoke pieces throughout the years, which were loaned from his customers, especially for the celebrations. In 2016 Fei's passion for

Combining his love for gemstones and art, Liu chose to study a degree at Birmingham’s

jewellery and commercial nous earned him the coveted award of UKJA Designer of the Year.

prestigious School of Jewellery. After completing his BA (Honours) in Jewellery and Silversmithing, he was equipped not only with the tools he needed to design jewellery but with the ability to question, challenge and to reinvent. With a firm presence in the international jewellery market, but still based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, Liu has expanded

Today, Liu continues to find success both in China and in Britain. His jewellery is retailed in over 70 boutiques throughout the UK, France and China, along with having had work exhibited in world- famous department stores Liberty and Harrods.

his portfolio to include a number of collections in platinum, gold and silver, along with creating widely celebrated Bridal collections and offering bespoke services for customers, keeping the luxury fine jewellery philosophy at the core of his brand. A philosophy, which has gained his brand numerous distinguished awards, including, 2016 Finalist Jewellery Designer of the Year, 2015 IJL Editor’s Choice Awards for Visual Impact and Finalist Jewellery Brand of the Year, 2014 Bridal Design of the Year and Bridal Collection of the Year, amongst others. Liu was the first jewellery designer in the UK to have a standalone store in China. Since then, he

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The alluring centre stone is a 10ct unheated Mozambique ruby, the twisting platinum lines are decorated with hand-cut 5ct white D colour diamonds. Page 49

Photo courtesy of FEI LIU Â© FEI LIU

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

Elegant swirls of orange sapphire and yellow diamond-set ray florets, which delicately encircle the vivid 14ct emerald. Drops of tsavorite complete this dimensional piece. Page 50

Photo courtesy of FEI LIU © FEI LIU

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

This piece features 45 varying sized spherical green tourmaline beads, with a combined weight of 509 carats; as well as 18 carats of white gold, 17.7 carats of diamonds and 19.6 carats of garnets. The feather centrepiece can also be detached from the beaded neckpiece and worn as a large dramatic brooch. This was the winner of the IJL Editor's Choice Award 2015. Page 52

Photo courtesy of FEI LIU © FEI LIU

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

Designed to be worn on the red carpet as well as on the motorbike. This neckpiece combines volcanic rock and diamonds together to create an unusual contrast and to give this piece an edgy look. The Unicorn's face is carved out of white Russian nephrite and the diamonds that are set on the horse's mane are articulated for maximum comfort. The Unicorn is also set with 18K black gold and black diamonds as well. Page 53

Photo courtesy of FEI LIU © FEI LIU

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

A brooch inspired by the poppy flower and composed of an assortment of gemstones. The delicate flower beautifully drapes over a stem of Tsavorite. The petals are made from Australian opals, with raindrops of diamonds and stamens of yellow diamonds which encompass the jade. Page 54

Photo courtesy of FEI LIU © FEI LIU

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

Allure Ring With Pendant Option This allure ring - with pendant option - features a 2.68 carat Asscher cut diamond of E colour and VS1 clarity, whilst set in platinum with pavé white diamonds. This was the winner of the Lonmin design innovation award in 2011. Page 56

Photo courtesy of FEI LIU © FEI LIU

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

The Alyssum Collection is a gold collection set with diamonds and iridescent mother of pearl. It is named after the cluster of blossoms which flower throughout the year. These delicate blooms hug the earth and freely nurture into a carpet of white flowers, giving the illusion of a blanket of snow. The charm of this flower is matched by its meaning “worth beyond beauty”. Page 57

Photo courtesy of FEI LIU © FEI LIU

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

With its dramatic, sweeping folds and architectural framework, the iconic Cascade collection is a striking combination of line and curve. Beautifully delicate yet unashamedly bold, the collection’s undulating forms are inspired by the movement and strength of flowing water; captured in a dazzling ribbon of pavé set cubic zirconia. Page 62

Photo courtesy of FEI LIU © FEI LIU

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF FEMININITY

DAVIDE MAULE A universe made of creativity Page 65

Photo courtesy of DAVIDE MAULE Â© DAVIDE MAULE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

DAVIDE MAULE A universe made of creativity

BY CHRISTIAN GOUGENHEIN

Welcome to the world of Davide Maule,

designer at the service of many renown

Master Goldsmith of profession, sculptor and

international brands, maturing great experience

painter by avocation; a universe made of creativity,

and a strong artistic personality.

flair and imagination.

In 2008, together with Katia, his wife and

Through his ideal artistic path, you will

precious muse, he founded D & K DAVIDE MAULE

experience an imaginary journey through the

and opened his first goldsmith laboratory in Italy

center of nature to the bottom of a pearl and coral

where he began to experiment with new personal

sea, to the top of a volcano where gold is carved

techniques and created the first models for his

like lava, or the shore of a lake of water like

own collections that, after their first launch in 2013,

diamonds, up to the tropics with the warm and

quickly gained public recognition. Furthermore in

bright colors of the gemstones.

the same year he won a contest organized by the

The artist offers sculpted jewelry, created exclusively by hand, by means of special processing technique, unique pieces made with attention to the smallest details and finished with great craftsmanship, where the details live in

National Confederation of Handicraft and was honored with the important official recognition of Artisan Excellence in regard to the creation of unique jewels of the highest level and elegance and for the high quality of exclusive workmanship.

material and chromatic combinations that give

In a very short time, Davide Maule’s jewels

birth to a unique and unmistakeable style. Every

have aroused the interest of known journalists and

jewel of the collection is the exclusive work of the

international bloggers and some of his creations

artist who personally takes care of all stages of

have earned a slot on the pages and covers of

manufacture starting from the initial design to the

known magazines in this sector.

finished piece; this makes all D.K. DAVIDE MAULE jewelry unique works appreciated and sought after by international customers.

In 2015 he was invited by a member of the royal family of Qatar to exhibit his creations at the prestigious Doha Jewellery and Watches

Davide Maule grew up in Valenza (Italy) – one

Exhibition .

of the most famous jewelry capitals in the world where the most renowned Maisons of high-end jewelry established their production sites. He graduated as Master of Goldsmith Art in 1994 at

Starting from 2017, Switzerland became the artist’s production base with a workshop and a retailing point in Ascona.

the Benvenuto Cellini Institute of Art in Valenza

His collections are also presented in the

and later earned a Master’s Degree in Jewelry

framework of international trade fairs and events

Design and a specialization in Gemology I.G.I.

related to the world of art and luxury.

From 1998 to 2008, he worked as a goldsmith and

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Photo courtesy of DAVIDE MAULE © DAVIDE MAULE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

3 pétales Ring , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 300$, 18K gold/silver 210$ 2 pétales Rings , available in 18K yellow, rose, white gold and 18K gold/silver , 18K gold 250$, 18K gold/silver 190$ Page 67

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

Photo courtesy of DAVIDE MAULE Â© DAVIDE MAULE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

Photo courtesy of DAVIDE MAULE Â© DAVIDE MAULE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

Photo courtesy of DAVIDE MAULE Â© DAVIDE MAULE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | A UNIVERSE MADE OF CREATIVITY

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BOUCHERON Plume de Paon Page 83

Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON Â© BOUCHERON

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

BOUCHERON Plume de Paon B Y C AT H E R I N E VA RO U C H A

A true aesthete, Fréderic Boucheron was

High Jewelry and Watchmaking. The

fascinated by the beauties of nature. He

Boucheron style, free and audacious,

loved the wild and always interpreted it free

continues to create the classics of tomorrow.

and triumphant.

There are currently more than 55

One of these wonders of Nature, the

Boucheron boutiques across the world.

peacock’s feather, soon became one of the

Boucheron is part of Kering, a worldwide

jeweler’s inspirations. He reinvented it

leader in luxury and lifestyle.

constantly to create even more striking pieces.

The Jewellery Historian loves Boucheron and we are honored to introduce

In 2018, new Jewelry and High Jewelry

you this exceptional new collection.

designs join the Plume de Paon collection. Even more organic, Plume de Paon designs sit lightly on the body, sensuously shadowing a woman’s curves to form a perfect match. Boucheron surprises with a pair of ear clips in diamonds and white gold end that rises daringly along the ear. It has just as much femininity as the rings made by the workshops, running over two ngers and merging with the skin.  The Plume de Paon pendant sits lightly on the cleavage while the lapis lazuli and topaz necklaces are worn like glamorous regalia. Created by Frederic Boucheron in 1858, Boucheron is built through four generations of direct descendants. Visionary designer and first jeweler of the Place Vendôme, Boucheron embodies excellence in Jewelry,

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

In the skilled hands of the jeweler, the diamond and topaz peacockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feather comes alive resplendent with realism. The tassel completes the creation giving it a definite Couture look. Necklace set with white topaz beads and paved with diamonds, in white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

Feathers are at the heart of Boucheron’s history and heritage. Inspired by nature, Frédéric Boucheron innovated, over 130 years ago, with feather creations strong in symbolism and style. The Plume de Paon pendant earrings are born of Boucheron’s savoir-faire, enriched by a new technique exclusive to the Maison: the specific assembly of diamonds which replicates the suppleness of a real peacock feather. The Hands of Lights give life to the feathers.Thus, the creation moves with its wearer, like a feather ruffling in the gentle breeze.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

Plume de Paon ring, large version, set with one rose-cut diamond and paved with diamonds, in white gold. The feather-light design of the Plume de Paon ring is stunning. In the large version it sits sensuously over two fingers.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

Plume de Paon ear clips, set with two rose-cut diamonds  and paved with diamonds, in white gold. The first jeweler of Place Vendôme has always been known  for its daring and creativity. The Plume de Paon ear clips in white gold set with diamonds attest to this desire to shake up established codes  and to surprise by the originality of what is worn.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

Plume de Paon pendant, set with one rose-cut diamond  and paved with diamonds, in white gold The first jeweler of Place Vendôme has always been known  for its daring and creativity. The Plume de Paon ear clips in white gold set with diamonds attest to this desire to shake up established codes  and to surprise by the originality of what is worn.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | PLUME DE PAON

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ASHOKA

Timeless style and elegance Page 97

Photo courtesy of WILLIAM GOLDBERG Â© WILLIAM GOLDBERG

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | TIMELESS STYLE AND ELEGANCE

ASHOKA

Timeless Style and elegance BY CHRISTIAN GOUGENHEIN

In the heart of New York’s Diamond District, on a street named in honor of its

mesmerized by it. But more importantly, he was inspired by it.

legendary founder, resides one of the world’s most distinguished diamond jewelry houses – William Goldberg.

One of the most benevolent rulers the world has ever known, the Indian emperor Ashoka treated everyone as equals and

Throughout his life, William Goldberg

p r o m o t e d p e a c e a n d h a r m o n y. T h i s

reveled in the pure happiness that beautiful

remarkable diamond, named in his honor, was

diamonds brought to people. He was fond of

reimagined by one of the industry’s most

saying, “The perfect diamond is the one that

iconic figures.

makes you perfectly joyous.” Today, his wife, Lili, son, Saul, daughter, Eve, son-in- law, Barry Berg and grandson Benjamin Goldberg manage the company he founded with the same passion and dedication. William Goldberg, the company, has become synonymous with the most spectacular diamonds in the world. It has had the honor of shaping some of history’s most famous diamonds, including the 137 carat pear shape D Flawless Premier Rose and the 102 carat oval shape D Flawless Beluga.

William Goldberg’s proprietary ASHOKA® diamond is a stunning affirmation of one man’s vision – extraordinary, exquisite and filled with joy. One of William’s many memorable quotes is, “You shouldn’t cheat a diamond of its right to be beautiful.” In the case of the ASHOKA® diamond, he gave it his all. Its distinctive cut and 62 facets make the ASHOKA® diamond appear 30 percent larger than an emerald cut diamond of the same weight. The rough material needs to be larger and longer than most, and less than 1 percent

The famed diamond house has factories

measure up to the company’s specifications.

in New York, Botswana, Israel, South Africa,

Because of the precision and skill required to

China and India. William Goldberg procures

cut to William Goldberg’s exacting standards,

the nest rough and creates the most

it can take six months for an ASHOKA®

breathtaking diamond jewelry that has come

diamond to emerge from the rough. It is the

t o d e fin e l u x u r y , t i m e l e s s s t y l e

pinnacle of the diamond cutter’s art.

and elegance.

Today, the Goldberg family continues to

Imagine creating a diamond whose

procure and cut the nest rough and design

beauty is without compare. A diamond so rare,

spectacular diamond jewelry coveted the

only a fortunate few will ever possess it. When

world over by discerning individuals of style.

William Goldberg first laid eyes on the legendary Ashoka diamond, he was

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Cherry Blossoms

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Make A Wish

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ZOLOTAS

“Couture” new collection Page 111

Photo courtesy of ZOLOTAS © ZOLOTAS

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

ZOLOTAS

“Couture” new collection BY CHRISTIAN GOUGENHEIN

On Thursday, May 10 the ZOLOTAS House

of the House’s history as “ambassador of

of jewelry presented COUTURE, its new

Greek tradition in jewelry”, as well as the

jewelry collection hosted at the Embassy of

artistic and cultural values that France and

France in Athens.

Greece have in common.

The artistic direction of ZOLOTAS House,

Throughout the night, the President of the

which Georges Papalexis has been bringing in

House, Marianne Le Clere Papalexis, had the

the last ten years, has assumed the task of

honor and pleasure of welcoming the House’s

creating a unique collection in that it draws its

distinguished guests and guiding them

essence from all contemporary forms of

through the philosophy behind the creation of

expression of modern women's

the new collection.

representations.

In that special atmosphere, under the

Natural female silhouettes, fragile and

sound of ambient music followed by live art

free, dress with refined trimmings, delicately

violin which was in complete symphony with

chiseled, unique in time and space. We are

t h e Pe r r i e r - J o u ë t c h a m p a g n e b a r ,

here in front of a true fashion designer's work:

personalities from the world of culture, art,

The 18KT yellow gold threads entangle to

businessmen, politicians, top diplomats as well

compose cords, fringes and edgings, while

as media representatives, fashion bloggers

the delicate embroidery is embellished with

and influencers discovered first the unique

fine gems and stones of suave colors (a

jewelry of the COUTURE collection presented

yellow-honey citrine, a mild pink tourmaline, a

in the specially installed for the night

green-yellow peridot, a blue-purple iolite) or

showcases and worn on the impressive

shiny ones (a ruby scarlet, an emerald green, a

models that were walking among the crowd..

diamond translucent pureness). The COUTURE collection, with its complete range of necklaces, bracelets, pairs of earrings and rings, embraces skin and body like a true garment embroidered with fine gold. The beautiful night was inaugurated by the Ambassador of France in Athens Christophe Chantepy who addressed an honorary speech highlighting the importance

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

FENG J.

Refined perfection Page 127

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

FENG J. Refined perfection

B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

FENG. J is an up and coming certified

‘My artistic inspiration behind each piece

Chinese high-end jeweler combining

of jewelry is a reflection of my Chinese

traditional European craftsmanship with

background and the artistry which goes way

Chinese aesthetics in her one-of-a-kind jewelry

back to my great-grandfather, a famous

creations. She established her jewelry brand in

Chinese court painter who was commissioned

Paris and Shanghai in 2016 at the tender age

to create the painting for the Royal Family of

of 30. After obtaining her Master's Degree in

the Qing Dynasty. I still use his heirloom seal

Jewelry Design at the renowned Central Saint

and old Chinese artworks from my childhood

Martin’s College in 2012, FENG. J worked in

for spiritual and creative enlightenment.'

the jewelry department at Alexander McQueen in London where she gained valuable insights and skills.

In 2015, FENG.J’s artistic jewelry piece made the Chinese jewelry designer’s highest sales record in POLY (Hong Kong) Auction

Following her experience at Alexander

House which put her in the spotlight as an up

McQueen in London, FENG. J acquired further

and coming high-end jewelry design talent.

industry credentials and technical expertise

Recently, she has been compared to Wallace

from the Gemological Institute of America, the

Chan and Cindy Chao by The French Jewelry

Gubelin Lab Academy in Switzerland and the

Post and featured in China's Fortune Character

BJO in Paris. Today, FENG. J works from her

Magazine.

atelier in Paris at Place Vendôme where she creates her exquisite and handcrafted one-of-a-kind creations, using precious and vibrant quality materials such as diamonds, jades, aquamarines, south sea pearls, colourful sapphires and many more exotic materials. Her signature style, which she describes as ‘dramatic, feminine and fusional with a Chinese artistic twist’, draws inspiration from

FENG. J is based in Paris and Shanghai and spends her free time traveling between Paris, London, Shanghai & Hong Kong, visiting museums, attending art exhibitions and sourcing creative ideas and cultural influences for her bespoke collections from an adventurous curiosity she has held since her youth.

her Chinese roots. Originating from a family of great art collectors, her source of inspiration is her childhood and family history.

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BAMBOO SPIRITUAL EARRINGS Imperial jade / Emerald / Rose-cut diamond / white diamond / 18k white gold

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ROYAL BUTTERFLY RING 5,5ct Pink Sapphire / Burmese unheated rubies / Yellow diamonds / White diamonds / 18k gold

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FAIRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S EYES EARRINGS 15ct Tanzanite / Yellow Diamond Sapphire / Fancy colored Sapphire White Diamond / 18k Yellow Gold 18k White Gold

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JARDIN DES TUILERIES BROOCH 15ct Tanzanite / Yellow Diamond Sapphire / Fancy colored Sapphire White Diamond / 18k Yellow Gold 18k White Gold

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LA ORCHIDÃ&#x2030;E SUITE-NECKLACE Titanium / White gold / Unheated royal blue sapphire / Tanzanites / Crystal jade / Purple, blue sapphires / Diamonds

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LE CYGNE BROOCH Crystal Opal / Moon Stone Rose Cut Diamond / White Diamond 18k White Gold

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ALHAMBRA EARRINGS Aquamarine / Pearly Shell Blue Sapphire / White Diamond 18k White Gold

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GARDEN OF EDEN NECKLACE Aquamarine / Pearly Shell Blue Sapphire / White Diamond 18k White Gold

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VICTORIA AILE BROOCH Top Imperial Jade / Yellow Diamond White Diamond / 18k White Gold

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RÃ&#x160;VE DE PAPILLON South-Sea Gold Pearl / Rose Cut Diamond Yellow Sapphire / Yellow Diamond White Diamond / Enamel

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FENG J.

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ULYSSE NARDIN Beautiful freaks Page 153

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | BEAUTIFUL FREAKS

ULYSSE NARDIN BEAUTIFUL FREAKS FEARLESS FREE DIVER FRED BUYLE PARTNERS WITH ULYSSE NARDIN

Ulysse Nardin, watchmaker of the oceans,

To accompany Buyle into the ocean

is proud to announce its partnership with free

depths, Ulysse Nardin has created the Diver

diver and photographer Buyle. Underwater

Deep Dive, a robust, functional sports watch,

explorer, Buyle has spent most of the last three

water resistant to1000 meters. “At a time when

decades beneath the surface of the seas

our mobility is changing so much, it’s great to

capturing images in the watery depths with

be able to carry an object with you all the time

just a camera, available light and one breath of

that says so much about who you are”, says

air.

Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin. Sunlight, water, air. Fred Buyle is using his

underwater photography to change the way we see the seas. Thanks to his bold exploration, we can marvel at the icebergs of Antarctica from an orca’s point of view, swim with sharks, and look up from 60m below the surface at the sun shining through the water.

Powered by the in-house UN-320 caliber it has everything a serious diver needs: a helium escape valve, removable titanium guard, an expandable, adjustable rubber strap and a large bezel with 12-nothed teeth for easy manipulation, even with diving gloves. Fifteen sharks adorn the dial and one more is stamped on the back – a reminder that man is

Without disrupting the fragile marine environment, Buyle uses his artistic

only a visitor in the ocean’s depths; the seas belong first to the animals.

background to capture little-seen animals of the deep on film, tagging them for biologists in the process. Able to reach 60m on one lungful of air with his camera, his images are taken with natural light and one breath of air. Belgian-born Buyle is specialized in capturing

“Three things have fascinated me since I was small kid: bicycles, sailboats and mechanical watches. The three share one technical aspect, natural energy and a little bit of magic”, said Buyle.

images of sharks in their natural habitats, without a protective cage, diving freely with

Bold, respectful and talented, Fred Buyle has not finished surprising us.

iconic species such as hammerheads, tigers and even great white sharks.

Swimming with sharks, Buyle photographs marine animals in their natural environment using non-invasive techniques

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For Ulysse Nardin, watch maker of the seas, the alliance with Fred Buyle is a natural

showing a subtle beauty that only comes with an experienced eye.

one. The 2018 unveiling of the new Diver Deep Dive sports watch coincides nicely with this new partnership, completing the chain of watchmaker, watch, wearer.

Buyle uses a simple formula for his photographs: water, available light, a camera and one breath of air. With simple equipment and freedom to move around, a free diver

Buyle is a free diver and underwater

can to capture unique moments. Fred has

photographer born in 1972. He has been

been taking pictures as far down as 60

connected to the sea since childhood when

meters on single breath of air in remote

he spent several months each year on the

locations inaccessible to even scuba divers.

family sailboat. At 10, an age when most kids

T h i s “ Z e n ” a p p r o a c h m a k e s B u y l e ’s

are still skipping rope in the schoolyard, he

photography different from any other

discovered free diving. Plunging into the

underwater photography.

oxygen tank-free technique for the next years of his life, he became a scuba diving instructor, teaching free diving in beginning in 1991.

Concerned by conservations issues, in 2005 Buyle began to work with marine biologists, assisting them in their field work. He uses his freediving abilities to approach

He set his first world record in 1995 and

the animals and perform tasks such as

decided to dedicate his life to free diving. He

acoustic and satellite tagging and DNA

broke three additional world records

sampling. Buyle has worked with teams from

between 1997 and 2000 and in 1999, passed

Colombia, Mexico, France, the UK, the

the mythical 100-meter depth on one breath

Philippines and South Africa, sharing his

of air.

practical knowledge and personal experience

In 2002, he began a second career in underwater photography. His goal: to show the beauty of free diving and the animals in their natural, underwater world. Using only natural light, Buyle has captured images of sharks, ray, fish, dolphins and countless other

with marine life. Fearlessly approaching great white sharks, great hammerheads, scalloped hammerheads, lemon sharks, ferox sharks, humpback whales, sperm whales and orcas, he never uses a protective cage, which can disturb the animals.

majestic specimens of marine life.

During these missions, Fred carefully

Buyle comes from an artistic background; His grand grandfather was a pioneer of photography in the 1890’s, his grandfather was a painter and his father an advertising and fashion photographer during the 1960’s. His work reflects these influences,

documents the field work he performs in order to contribute to the conservation efforts on a larger scale through talks, conferences and his own website. He believes that of positive imagery is more effective than the catastrophism widely used in the media nowadays and his images are used by NGOs

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around the world for their conservation campaigns.

Winding : Automatic Functions : H/M/s/D, Date at 3 o’clock, front

About Ulysse Nardin – Artisans of individuality

and back date corrector, Small seconds counter at 5 o’clock, Automatic screw-on

Founded by Mr. Ulysse Nardin in 1846 and a proud member of the global luxury group Kering since November 2014, Ulysse Nardin has written some of the finest chapters in the history of Haute Horlogerie.

decompression valve system at 9 o’clock Case : Titanium Bezel : Rotating, unidirectional, made of titanium, partially covered with rubber

The company’s earliest renown came from its

Dial : Blue with hammerhead pattern ,

links to the nautical world: its marine

Luminescent hands and hour markers

chronometers are among the most reliable ever made, still sought by collectors around

Diameter : 46 mm

the world. A pioneer of cutting-edge

Crown : At 2 o’clock, with removable crown

technologies and the innovative use of

guard in titanium, Hammerhead shark

materials like silicium, the brand is one of the

pattern on the side

few with the in-house expertise to produce its own high-precision components and

Water Resistance : 1000 m

movements. This exceptional level of

Crystal : Crystal sapphire with anti-reflection

watchmaking excellence has earned Ulysse

treatment

Nardin membership in the most exclusive circle of Swiss watchmaking, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. Today, from its sites in Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland, the brand’s continuing quest for horological perfection centers around five collections: the Marine, the Diver, the Classic,

Caseback : Stainless steel, stamped with hammerhead design Strap : Rubber strap with expandable element (spring that adjusts according to water depth), Folding clasp

the Executive and the Freak. www.ulysse-nardin.com Reference : 3203-500LE-3/93-HAMMER Limited Edition : 300 pieces Movement : Calibre UN-320, Manufacture Movement with Ulysse Nardin certificate, Silicium spiral and anchor escapement Power reserve : Around 48 hours

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Photo courtesy of Lin Mei | Unsplash

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SHOWCASE

SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

B Y PA NAYOTA V R A K A & C H R I S T I A N G O U G E N H E I N

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

MAGERIT

EDIGEM

WILLIAM GOLDBERG

SABBADINI

ANNA HU

GIAMPIERO BODINO

PIAGET

OMI PRIVÃ&#x2030;

PALMIERO

MAUREEN MARIS STENZHORN

To see more of our favorite jewellery, follow us on www.instagram.com/jewellery_historian Page 172

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

ADRESS BOOK BRANDS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

ANNA HU

MAUREEN MARIS

www.anna-hu.com

www.lmaris.gr

ASHOKA

OMI PRIVÉ

www.ashokadiamond.com

www.omiprive.com

BOUCHERON

PIAGET

www.boucheron.com

www.piaget.com

DAVIDE MAULE

PALMIERO

www.davidemaule.com

www.palmierogioielli.com

EDIGEM

SABBADINI

www.edigem.com

www.sabbadini.com

FEI LIU

STENZHORN

www.feiliu.co.uk

www.stenzhorn.com

FENG J.

SOTHEBY’S

www.feng-j.com

www.sothebys.com

GIAMPIERO BODINO

WILLIAM GOLDBERG

www.giampierobodino.com

www.williamgoldberg.com

GUCCI

ULYSSE NARDIN

www.gucci.com

www.ulysse-nardin.com

MAGERIT

ZOLOTAS

www.mageritjoyas.com

www.zolotas.gr

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