Jewellery Historian ISSUE 08 / YEAR 01
#08
index
004 Jewellery Historian
#08
March 2015
musts news
portraits
inspiration
09
Editor's Letter Passion for creativity
10
Issue Globe The designers at a glance
14
Basel World 2015 Elegance & Brilliance
16
Pasquale Bruni at Basel World 2015
18
Fabergé An objet d'art masterpiece
20
Omi Privé Grand prize 0f 2015 JCK Jewelers’ Choice
22
Sotheby's appoints David Bennett Jewelry Chairman
26
Zolotas introduces the Love letter collection
28
Avakian at the Doha jewelry & watches exhibition
32
Meghna Patel Adventurous, luxurius & wearable
46
Chimento Hand-made beauty & versality
72
Gumuchian a collction for bees
88
Mousson Atelier beauty setted in precious metals
128
Adler introduces Flora, the fruit of artisanal expertise
138
Amethyst The breathtaking beauty of gems
146
Our Faves we introduce you to our Secret Garden
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Jewellery Historian ISSUE 08, YEAR 01 MARCH 2015 Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-chief
*** CONTRIBUTORS Eva Kountouraki Martin Huynh Christina Rodopoulou
***
LAY-OUT & DESIGN Jewellery Historian
*** www.jewelleryhistorian.com info@jewelleryhistorian.com
*** For a free subscription visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com
***
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*** FREE COPY / NOT FOR SALE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN Š 2015
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008 Jewellery Historian
editor 's letter
Passion This issue is definitely a spring issue. It is like a garden, featuring unique and talented designers from all over the world, like each one of our issues. Since our first issue our main mission is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. We are grateful to all brands and designers that decided to share their creativity and vision with us all, since many refused our invitation. With as a main goal to provide the highest-quality content for free on the internet, while keeping access to our e-magazine free to all users worldwide, we believe in free education of every person. Education is the key to building better lives for hundreds of millions worldwide. For us education is a fundamental right that requires free delivery and free access to material of high quality. But education is definitely the centre of huge economic interests. We believe in free education and we also believe that brands should support, financially and morally, initiatives that want to offer free access and information in order to promote designers & brands and educate readers for free. They should support "open source" initiatives instead of trying only to sell something. To the ones that support us morally we are thankful. One of our goals is to offer free knowledge, by offering free material to people interested in creativity, interested in discovering the amazing universe, the expertise and vision of famous international maisons. We believe and work with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery & watch design as a form of creative expression. The Jewellery Historian is one of the few free e-magazines worldwide, related to jewellery & timepieces, to offer for free such a quality of editorial line and photography to its readers. All this is made with no financial support from anyone and it will continue to be made for as long as we will be able to do it.
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief
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issue globe In every issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. Meet the artists & columnists featured in this issue.
Meghna PATEL Meghna Jewels is the fine jewelry line by designer Meghna Patel. After launching a successful trend jewelry line in 2011, Patel transitioned into fine jewelry 2014. Inspired by her Indian heritage, Patel uses bold precious stones, layering her designs with her signature diamond pave arches. Overall, Patel’s process is simple and organic. Receiving constant inspiration for her designs through anything she falls in with at first sight, her pieces embody all the little elements that come into her life from the places she has lived and traveled.
GUMUCHIAN Gumuchian is a gem of a jewelry collection that’s treasured by the cognoscenti who can spot true European craftsmanship and superior design a mile away. Owned and operated with meticulous attention to quality by Anita Gumuchian and daughters Myriam and Patricia, this boutique company is proud to do it all, from the selection of brilliant diamonds through their family-run offices in Antwerp, to the actual manufacturing in the heart of New York.
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CHIMENTO Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been associated with unique and exclusive creations using gold as the undisputed protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of creativity, craftsmanship and attention to detail, CHIMENTO’s creations have become synonym with top quality 18k gold Italian Jewelry.All CHIMENTO collections are a perfect blend of tradition and design, setting the new classic benchmarks of Italian jewelry with their elegant, refined and contemporary style.
MOUSSON ATELIER Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia. Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the company. They pay great importance to creating jewellery that is valuable ultimately in its beauty.
Eva KOUNTOURAKI Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA, the world famous Gemological Institute of America. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the "Unique breathtaking beauty of gems". In this issue discover and learn about the amethyst.
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news Boutique openings, coffee table books, auctions, exhibitions & events. Everything new jewellery lovers must know, is here.
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Photo courtesy of Baselworld
Baselworld 2015
Baselworldhasbecomethelifebloodof the watch and jewellery industry, and dominates the annual schedule of luxury brands.
It is the single most important event that helps companies strengthen their business and establish new partnerships, sign important contracts or diversify their supply chain. The 2014 edition attracted more than 1,500 exhibitors from 40 countries, 150,000 visitors from 100 countries and 4,000 journalists from 70 countries.
The big diversity attendees coming from all five continents is what makes the exhibition tick. More importantly the world`s most renowned brands The worldwide impact of the show is showcase their collections exclusively tremendous and brands presenting at Baselworld and do not attend any their products at Baselworld, are sure other exhibitions, further adding value that the most important buyers from all to visiting professionals and company over the world will be there to see them.representatives. Baselworld is poised once again to capture the hearts and minds of everyone interested in the global watch and jewellery industry. With around 1,500 prestigious brands representing every sector expected to participate, Baselworld 2015 will bring together all the key players from
Photo courtesy of Baselworld
At the upcoming Baselworld 2015, from March 19 to March 26, 2015, the crème de la crème of diamonds, gemstones and pearls will be showcased for the world's top jewellers, designers and manufacturers to discover.
watchmakers to jewellers, from diamond, pearl and gemstone dealers through to machinery manufacturers and other suppliers.
Baselworld 2015 March 19 to March 26, 2015 Messe Basel, Switzerland Opening times: Daily from 9 am to 6 pm (except Thursday, March 26: 9 am to 4 pm)
Photo courtesy of Baselworld
Baselworld, the most highly acclaimed show in the world of timepieces and jewellery is also the venue where all the key global players of the diamonds, pearls and gemstones industry unite under one roof to display their most spectacular items.
Photo courtesy of Baselworld
Photo courtesy of Baselworld
Brilliance & Elegance
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Photo courtesy of PASQUALE BRUNI ©PASQUALE BRUNI
Photo courtesy of PASQUALE BRUNI ©PASQUALE BRUNI
Baselworld 2015
Pasquale Bruni presents the new creation of the iconic collection Prato Fiorito, a unique set that seduce by the refinement of its craftsmanship and the gems of rare beauty.
piece of embroidery which allows glimpses of the skin and designs petals to dress up the décolleté. It is a piece of jewellery which depending on what it is worn with adapts to the feminine mood desired.
A creation capable of combining the excellence of Italian manufacturing with an unmistakable contemporary style.
The collier is composed of 3421 diamonds for a total of 31,51carats, one 4,46 carats morganite and 258 pink sapphires for a total of 10,54 carats. The set is completed by chandelier earrings in white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires.
The fine jewellery by Pasquale Bruni is masterfully expressed in the exquisite Fiori in Fiore necklace. Pink sapphires magically blend into the luminosity of diamonds set in white gold. A pavé flower and a drop of multifaceted morganite are the heart of this exquisite necklace. Each tiny flower that makes it up is attached to its neighbour by gold wire. The result is like a magnificent
The new creation will be unveiled at the prestigious Baselworld 2015, which takes place from March 19
to March 26, 2015, Messe Basel, Switzerland.
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Photo courtesy of FABERGE © FABERGE
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FABERG É PEARL EG G An objet d'art Masterpiece
Photo courtesy of FABERGE © FABERGE
Fabergé, the world’s most iconic artist jeweller, today revives its revered tradition of creating the most precious and coveted of objets d’art. Paying homage to the forthcoming centenary of the last Fabergé Imperial Eggs ever delivered, Fabergé has crafted an extraordinary, one-of-kind egg objet in collaboration with the Al-Fardan family, one of the world’s most renowned collectors of pearls. The Fabergé Pearl Egg is the first egg created in the ‘Imperial Class’ since 1917 where the Fabergé name and the Fabergé family have been united. Pearls have been coveted and treasured for millennia, linked inextricably with royalty, style and status. Fabergé is delighted to celebrate these "jewels of the sea" in the exquisite Fabergé Pearl Egg. The Fabergé Pearl Egg draws inspiration from the formation of a pearl within an oyster, and the egg’s painstakinglycrafted mother-of-pearl exterior opens to reveal a unique grey pearl of 12.17 carats, sourced from the Arabian Gulf and exhibiting exceptional purity and a highly unusual shade of grey. Harnessing 20 highly skilled workmasters, the objet embodies 139 fine, white pearls with a golden lustre, 3,305 diamonds, carved rock crystal and mother-of-pearl set on white and yellow gold. Each pearl adorning the Fabergé Pearl Egg was hand-selected by Hussain Ibrahim Al- Fardan from his private collection. An ingenious mechanism enables the entire outer shell to rotate on its base, simultaneously opening in six sections to unveil its treasure. The Pearl Egg is accompanied by a sumptuous Fabergé necklace of white pearls, diamonds and mother of pearl featuring a scallop motif, and finished with an exquisite 19.44 carat white pearl drop. Hussain Ibrahim Al-Fardan, Chairman of the Alfardan Group, commented: “I have a passion for natural pearls
and it took me many years to build my current collection gathering some of the most extraordinary pearls in the world. Fabergé has a great history in making jewellery for royalty and a truly precious Fabergé Egg is a luxury treasure and the symbol of a long-gone era of opulence. This is why I partnered with Fabergé to combine these two traditional treasures: the Fabergé Egg and natural Arabian Gulf pearls, to create an exceptional piece.” Robert Benvenuto, Fabergé President, said: “We are delighted to be sharing this historic moment - the unveiling of the Fabergé Pearl Egg - with Mr Hussain and Mr Ali AlFardan in Doha. It is a distinct pleasure and privilege for me and the Fabergé team to have collaborated with them in sourcing some of the finest pearls in the world for this creation. We hold our partnership, and indeed our friendship, with Mr Hussain and Mr Ali Al-Fardan, in the highest regard.” For thousands of years, the most desirable and valuable natural pearls came from the Arabian Gulf, the Red Sea and the Gulf of Manaar in South East Asia. In the Middle East in particular, pearl- fishing was the pillar of the regional economy, booming in the 18th and 19th centuries as demand soared. The introduction of cultured pearls at the beginning of the 20th century and the exhaustion of oyster beds in the region contributed to the decline of the pearl trade, and saw the oil industry become the predominant source of wealth in the Gulf. As a result, natural oriental pearls have become highly sought-after wonders of nature given their beauty and lustre. The Fabergé Pearl Egg was unveiled at the prestigious Doha Watch and Jewellery Exhibition, which took place from 23rd to 28th February 2015 at the Qatar National Convention Centre, Doha.
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Photo courtesy of OMI PRIVÉ © OMI PRIVÉ
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OMI PRIVÉ AWARDED GRAND PRIZE OF 2015 JCK JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS
Photo courtesy of OMI PRIVÉ © OMI PRIVÉ
Fine gemstone jewelry designer, Omi Privé, is awarded the
Omi Privé also earned merits with its black opal and tsavorite
Grand Prize in the eighth annual JCK Jewelers’ Choice
garnet ring. This piece was announced as a finalist in the
Awards. Retail jewelers from around the world voted the 4.33
category of “Platinum Jewelry over $10,000.”
carat Lightning Ridge black opal ring by Omi Privé as the “Best Ring Design over $10,000,” and the Grand Prize winner.
Omi Privé designs have been honored in the JCK Jewelers’
Each year awards are given in multiple categories; the piece
Choice Awards each year since the brand’s launch in 2012.
that earns the most votes is honored with the Grand Prize.
The award winning opal ring is featured on the March 2015 cover of JCK Magazine. Further details of the ring may be
The JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards is the industry’s biggest
viewed online at OmiPrivé.com or viewed in person May
retailer-determined design competition. Celebrating its
28th through June 1st at The Couture show, Wynn Las Vegas,
eighth year, Jewelers’ Choice continues to challenge
Salon 143.
designers and manufacturers to create innovative and salable pieces and to offer retailers the opportunity to vote
Omi Privé joins the passion of superior craftsmanship with the
on their favorites.
ultimate beauty of fine rare gemstones. As purveyors of the world’s greatest rarities, they select only the finest
The focus of the award winning ring is the extraordinary play
gemstones of unsurpassed quality for their fine jewelry
of color in the center black opal. The opal is accentuated
designs and many have been featured also in the Jewellery
with 0.46 carats of trillion green tsavorite garnets and 0.24
Historian.
carats of round blue sapphires. The shank of the ring sparkles with 0.42 carats of brilliant round diamonds. The ring was
Every Omi Privé piece is handcrafted in the United States,
crafted by hand in 18K yellow gold in Los Angeles, California. and exceeds the most exacting standards. Uniting the nature of the gemstone with the art of design is their "We are honored to win the Grand Prize award; it is very
specialty.
meaningful to me, as jewelry retailers are the ones that voted on our piece!" says Niveet Nagpal, President and Designer of
Please visit www.omiprive.com to view their complete
Omi Privé. "My passion lies in color, and I am especially
collection.
pleased with the way the colors come together in this ring. I am excited and honored that it has been recognized amongst so many beautiful entries."
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Business
SOTHEBY'S appoints David Bennett Jewelry Division Chairman In his new global role, Bennett — who is based in Geneva, Switzerland, will help design and implement a strategy of continued expansion and business development for the jewelry branch of the auction house. Jewelry sales at Sotheby’s in 2014 garnered $603 million, the highest annual total for the category ever. It also marked the third year in a row of record jewelry sales for Sotheby’s.
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Photo courtesy of Sotheby's
Photo courtesy of Sotheby's
SOTHEBY'S app oints David Bennett Jewelry Division Chairman Daryl Wickstrom, International Managing Director of
excellent position to experience continued growth
Sotheby’s Jewellery & Watch Divisions, on March 5,
beyond our recent record results, which culminated in
2015 announced the appointment of David Bennett to
2014 with our highest-ever annual total of more than
the newly- created position of Worldwide Chairman of
$600 million in sales. Our client base is constantly
Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division.
expanding – buyers from more than 74 countries participated in our auctions last year in New York,
Mr. Wickstrom commented: “David Bennett has led
Geneva, Hong Kong and London, with a quarter of all
Sotheby’s jewellery sales in Europe to an incredible list of
bidders participating in a Sotheby’s auction for their first
historic results over the course of his four decades with
time. I look forward to working with Lisa, Chin Yeow,
the Company. He is celebrated and respected
Patti, and our international senior specialist team to
throughout this field for his impressive scholarship,
continue building an exciting, diverse and innovative
extensive knowledge of jewellery and precious stones,
jewellery business that serves both new and established
and consummate skills as an auctioneer. Sotheby’s
collectors and influential members of the trade on a
global sales of jewellery are experiencing some of the
global basis."
fastest growth among the many collecting categories we offer, and in this new global role David will help
Under Mr. Bennett’s leadership, Sotheby’s Geneva has
design and implement a strategy for the continued
presented
expansion and development of this critical arm of our
importance, among them the legendary “Beau
business. With the support of a network of jewellery
Sancy”, a diamond that had once graced the
expertsthatisunparalleledintheauctionmarket,ledby
collection of Henry IV of France, and the magnificent
Lisa Hubbard, Chairman North & South America,
emerald and diamond tiara formerly in the collection of
Sotheby’s Jewellery, Quek Chin Yeow, Chairman Asia,
PrincessKatharinaHenckelvonDonnersmarck.Heisthe
Sotheby’s Jewellery, and Patti Wong, Chairman of
co-author, with Daniela Mascetti, of the celebrated
Sotheby’s Diamonds, the Company stands in a unique
reference book Understanding Jewellery, in print since
position to serve our rapidly-expanding client base.”
1989, and Celebrating Jewellery (2012).
Mr. Bennett said: “Sotheby’s jewellery sales are in an
024 Jewellery Historian
many
jewels
of
supreme
historical
During his tenure, Mr. Bennett has presided over many record-breaking sales, including the “Graff Pink” that set the current auction record for any diamond and any jewel when it sold for $46.2 million in November 2010, as well as an extraordinary seven 100+ carat diamonds. He has been instrumental in presenting many of Sotheby’s most iconic jewellery auctions, including the Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor (1987), the Princely Collections of Thurn and Taxis (1992), and the collections of Ava Gardner, H.H. Begum Sultan Mohamed Shah Aga Khan, Maria Callas, Gina Lollobrigida and, most recently, Dimitri Mavrommatis.
Infographic by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN with data courtesy of Sotheby's
Infographic by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN with data courtesy of Sotheby's
In the Geneva-based role, Bennett will design and implement a strategy for the continued expansion and development of Sotheby’s global jewelry business, which the auction house says is one of its fastest growing categories, achieving $603 million in sales in 2014.
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Photo courtesy of ZOLOTAS © ZOLOTAS
Love Letter
Love is a face, a name dressed in words, words expressing emotions. For Valentine's Day, ZOLOTAS House of Jewelry, inspired by the romantic power of a love letter, created and introduced the "Love Letter" collection in silver and gold, definitely a unique way to express your love by engraving this one word that will stay forever.
gold set with a diamond and a pink gold chain.
The ZOLOTAS house of jewelry has been writing history in the Decorative Arts since 1895. The house’s distinctive rings, drop earrings, necklaces and bracelets have been in the front line for more than a century.
The real bonus, is that you can engrave the back side with a private message, word or even a name. All you have to do is to ask for it and ZOLOTAS will do it for you. We asked to ZOLOTAS to do it for us and the result is gorgeous.
At the Jewellery Historian, we really loved the ‘Love Letter’ bracelet in 18KT yellow gold set with a diamond and a gold chain and the ‘Love Letter’ pendant in 18KT pink
With a retail price of €450 for each, this bracelet ( and the pendant as well) is an absolute must-have for all romantics fashionistas who know how to make a statement of elegance.
You can buy them in the ZOLOTAS boutiques in Athens, but also at the webstore of ZOLOTAS (www.zolotas.gr). For engraving in the back of the letter, please add your message, name or word in your order or contact ZOLOTAS by phone. To view the new collection visit a ZOLOTAS Boutique or visit the official website and webstore, that will send it directly to your home. www.zolotas.gr
Photo courtesy of ZOLOTAS © ZOLOTAS
The house of ZOLOTAS celebrates the timelessness of luxury with creations that reflect history, tradition and passion for the 'unique'.T h i s u n i q u e d i s p l a y of the love has attracted international recognition of important personages, celebrities, social and political elite, such as Elizabeth Taylor , Jacqueline Kennedy, the Kennedy family, Catherine Deneuve, Grace Kelly, shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis, all sought Zolotas creations.
Photo courtesy of ZOLOTAS © ZOLOTAS
new collection by
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Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN
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Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN
AVAKIAN
With boutiques in Geneva, London, Moscow, Beverly Hills and New York, and plans for Middle East, Asian and Russian expansion, Avakian has long been geared towards clients who seek the extraordinary - from extravagant crowns worn at the weddings of princes and princesses, to elaborate bespoke commissions for governments and oligarchs.
Bulgarian-born, American-educated Edmond Avakian, a civil engineer and a trained gemmologist, joined the jewelery business his parents had started in Lebanon. Edmond would later relocate to Geneva, opening his very first boutique there as well as four more round the world, before appointing his children, Haig and Corinne, as directors of the company.
The Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition is an unprecedented artisan exhibition of the world’s most luxurious jewellery and watches. Held annually in Qatar it attracts world renown jewellers, watch makers and exhibitors and jewellery enthusiasts. The aims of the exhibition are to demonstrate the latest trends in the industry today; showcase the most magnificent gemstones and sophisticated timepieces in the world; portray the dynamism of Qatar and its strong and progressive economy; and to encourage foreign investors to Qatar. We are proud to showcase some pieces of Haute Joaillerie that AVAKIAN presented at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2015.
Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN
Being a family owned business allows Avakian to respond immediately when clients call them with urgent requests for customised pieces, and in some cases, hand delivery. It means they regularly work with some of the same stone suppliers and the same Swiss and Italian workshops which we’ve been working with for over 30 years – all of them dedicated to remarkable craftsmanship, be it goldsmithing, enamelling or stone-setting. It also allows them to offer a uniquely
This year, AVAKIAN participated at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2015, which was held in Doha from February 24 to February 28 at the Qatar National Convention Centre.
Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN
A third-generation family jeweler, Avakian is accustomed to serving royalty, heads of state and the Hollywood elite.At Avakian, their design influences are as eclectic and international as their family history.
personal service. In particular in Beverly Hills, against Rodeo Drive’s backdrop of global luxury powerhouses, family-owned Avakian has a special cachet. Customers visiting the boutique in the legendary Beverly Wilshire hotel know they can speak directly to a member of the Avakian family.
Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN
at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2015
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032 Jewellery Historian Photo courtesy of MEGHNA JEWELS ©MEGHNA JEWELS
Photo courtesy of MEGHNA JEWELS ©MEGHNA JEWELS
Adventurous, luxurius & wearable Meghna Jewels is the fine jewelry line by
opportunity to focus more on the intricate
designer Meghna Patel. Based is Chicago, designs and details of jewelry rather than and launched in 2014, the brand is defined
mass production. Meghna believes that,
by its use of stones, diamonds, and structural
across all cultures, jewelry is what completes
silver and gold to develop adventurous,
any outfit and that every detail in design
luxurious and wearable pieces.
should be specific and deliberate.
After launching a successful trend jewelry “My
pieces
are
the
product
of
my
line in 2011, Patel transitioned into fine imagination and things that inspire me in jewelry. The trend jewelry pieces were an everyday life. I want to design jewelry that instant hit and have graced by many
captivates
womens’
heart
and
soul.”
publications and has also been worn by Meghna’s process is organic, starting simply Blake Lively and Kelly Rutherford in the hit TV
with a sketch on a piece of paper. With
Show “GOSSIP GIRL”. The trend line was constant inspiration for her designs through carried in many reputed stores including anything she falls in love with at first sight, her Calypso St. Barth, Tootsies, Fred Segal, pieces embody all the little elements that Sophie’s Closet (Dubai) and many more.
come into her life from the places she has lived and traveled. >
The move has given the designer the Jewellery Historian
033
Photo courtesy of MEGHNA JEWELS ©MEGHNA JEWELS
> Inspired by her Indian heritage, Patel uses
that come into her life from the places she
bold precious stones, layering her designs has lived and traveled. “What I hope to with her signature diamond pave arches. convey with every bracelet or ring,” says “It’s all about the touches of color, mixing Patel, “is a warm invitation to go where I black and white diamonds with beautifully have been and see what I have witnessed cut stones to add that little pop,” says the around the globe.” designer, “I love playing with the structural element
of
lines
and
symmetry
and What makes Meghna Jewels amazing is the
combining that with aspects of my Indian purity of the design line that mixes a unique lineage by using colorful stones to give my
cultural heritage, the one of the designer to
jewels that extra something.”
the world cultural heritage.
Overall, Patel’s process is simple and Her creations are an amazing start and at the organic. Receiving
Jewellery Historian we are proud and very constant
inspiration
for
her happy
to
showcase
her
work.
As
a
designs through anything she falls in with at
gemologist and a jewellery designer myself,
first sight, her pieces embody all the little
I am definitely sure that in the future Meghna
elements
will delight us with many more creations,
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Photo courtesy of MEGHNA JEWELS ©MEGHNA JEWELS
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Photo courtesy of MEGHNA JEWELS ©MEGHNA JEWELS
After launching a successful trend jewelry line in 2011, the pieces were an instant hit and have graced by many publications and have also been worn by Blake Lively and Kelly Rutherford in“GOSSIP GIRL”.
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Photo courtesy of MEGHNA JEWELS ©MEGHNA JEWELS
Photo courtesy of MEGHNA JEWELS ©MEGHNA JEWELS
Photo courtesy of MEGHNA JEWELS ŠMEGHNA JEWELS
> "As a child, I loved to draw. Drawing was always something that came naturally to me. Like many young women, I became fascinated with the world of fashion. I would watch runway shows, and be particularly moved by the accessories that complimented each designer's piece. It wasn't long before my love of art and fashion merged and I began to draw jewelry. I envisioned these pieces hanging off the hand of women like me who loved color and haute couture.
that marks the birth of that particular piece. My favorite part of the design process is being able to witness the life of each piece.
Looking back at when I finally began to work on my pieces, I realize now what came out in some ways is representative of the places I've lived and traveled to. My pieces are not demure; they're adventurous. What I hope to convey with every bracelet or ring is a warm invitation to go where I have been and see what I have witnessed around the globe. I am grateful to all of the many fans, to the I begin simply, with a blank piece of paper cities which have inspired me, and the family and an idea. That idea can occur to me that helped propel me, and I wish just as anywhere, often, in the most unlikely places, many blessings to each of you. but soon enough I complete a sketch and 038 Jewellery Historian
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“What I hope to convey with every bracelet or ring,” says Patel, “is a warm invitation to go where I have been and see what I have witnessed around the globe.”
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Overall, Patel’s process is simple and organic. Receiving constant inspiration for her designs through anything she falls in with at first sight, her pieces embody all the little elements that come into her life from the places she has lived and traveled.
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CHIMENTO Hand-made beauty, versatility, and reversibility
Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been associated with unique and exclusive creations using gold as the undisputed protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of creativity, craftsmanship and attention to detail, CHIMENTO’s creations have become synonym with top quality 18k gold Italian Jewelry.All CHIMENTO collections are a perfect blend of tradition and design, setting the new classic benchmarks of Italian jewelry with their elegant, refined and contemporary style.
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CHIMENTO
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Hand-made beauty, versatility, and reversibility
Chimento is the story of an all-Italian family,
The Company was founded on the intuition
gifted with initiative and will power, which and imagination of Adriano Chimento, the first started in 1964 in Grisignano di Zocco, a
Company's founder and President, and
province of Vicenza and the seat of Italy's today is run by the next generation of the goldsmith tradition.
family of jewelers, who is dedicated to original creativity and the guiding principles
2500 years ago, the Etruscans, in what is
of the brand. Chimento is one of the most
present-day Tuscany, created among the
important brands in the world of jewelry.
most beautiful gold metalwork of the ancient world. Today, Italy remains a leader Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been in the transformation of that precious metal into
masterpieces
of
design
associated
with
unique
and
exclusive
and creations using gold as the undisputed
craftsmanship.
protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of creativity, craftsmanship and attention to
It was in the great tradition of the masters of
detail, CHIMENTO’s creations have become
Italian goldsmiths that Adriano Chimento synonym with top quality 18k gold Italian established a design and production studio Jewelry.All CHIMENTO collections are a for fine designer 18K gold and diamond
perfect blend of tradition and design, setting
jewelry in 1964 in Vicenza, Italy.
the new classic benchmarks of Italian jewelry with their elegant, refined and
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>Chimento has since grown into a successful wearing a precious jewel every day. Looking jewelry
manufacturer
with
a
global into the hearts of women, capturing their
presence in Europe, Asia, and the Americas.
desires; every CHIMENTO piece is born for
Today Chimento S.P.A. has a 70,000 square
this. Original shapes, innovative materials,
foot
design evolution and research. And a lot of
design
and
production
studio
in
Vicenza, a small town in Italy known as the
passion.
gold capital of the world. Master goldsmiths
innovative and unique pieces that become
and
jewelers
combine
Chimento
successfully
creates
old-world fashion musts.
handcrafting with state-of-the-art processes like
electroforming
and
microfusion
to Chimento's collections offer a complete
produce a collection unique in style and assortment of gold jewelry. The taste and finish.
original interpretation of trends is best expressed in the DESIGN collection for
The production studio has over 140 skilled
women and the TRENDY collection for men,
employees, some of which manually create
while the classicism and elegance that has
each piece of jewelry by hand. Chimento made Chimento famous is evident in the jewelry provides the customer with beauty,
TRADITION and CLASSIC collections. HD
security, versatility, and reversibility.
Silver represents an innovative approach whereby
Chimento
has
brought
their
Chimento jewels are dedicated to women
particular and inimitable style to the world of
who love contemporary design and classic
silver. From now on, at Chimento, not only
style and want to experience the thrill of
gold will set the trends.
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072 Jewellery Historian
Gumuchian
Photo courtesy of GUMUCHIAN © GUMUCHIAN
A collection for bees
On any given day, if you walk into the can see the sketches and designs that will Gumuchian office in Manhattan, you will soon see several women buzzing around, all with
be
transformed
from
vision
into
wearable jewelry. One door down from
one goal in mind: to bring our clients the most Anita you will find Patricia developing ideas exquisite, timeless and perfectly executed
and sketching; she draws her inspiration from
jewelry they have ever seen or worn. Our
her travels and natural surroundings. Patricia
founder and visionary, Anita Gumuchian
adds sophistication and elegance to every
and her daughters Myriam and Patricia carry piece, ensuring that the design will not only on a family legacy in the jewelry industry that satisfy the tastes of our most discerning dates back over 100 years. Together, the customers, but also serve as a cherished Gumuchian excellence
women of
combine
traditional
the heirloom for future generations. Just down
European
the hall, Myriam will be in her office, dressed
craftsmanship with fashion-forward designs. to kill and dripping in Gumuchian jewelry. From this vision our “Designed by Women for Myriam’s contagious and vivacious energy, Women” mantra emerged, setting out to passion and hard work is impossible not to embody the confidence and beauty of all notice the moment you lay eyes on her. As women.
the Vice President of Sales and Marketing, Myriam serves as the voice for Gumuchian’s
During your visit you will find Anita perched at jewelry and her experience in the industry her desk sifting through piles of the finest and knowledge of customer needs makes quality diamonds and gemstones to be set her perfectly suited to bridge the gap into precious metals to adorn our clientele.
between designer and consumer. >
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073
>The Gumuchian trio spends their days
North America Couture Show for best design
developing new designs with innovation with pearls & the Latin American Couture and an enthusiasm that radiates throughout
Show for best design in colored gemstones
the office and onto the jewelers’ benches. both in 1998. Couture Design Awards in 2002 Each design is brought to life by master
for best in bridal. In 2004 Gumuchian was the
jewelers in Gumuchian’s Manhattan atelier,
winner of the DPS & JCK for their diamond
never using anything below platinum or 18k right
hand
ring.
Myriam
Gumuchian
yellow, white and pink gold. This office is
became the first woman appointed chair of
where the team of women comes together
the JIC (Jewelry Information Center) in 2006
as one, treating each design as a tiny
and held the position for two years.
sculpture, ensuring each piece is built to wear with comfort while lasting a lifetime. In 2008 Gumuchian was the winner of the This is what it means to be “Designed by
Jeweler’s Choice award. In 2008 Myriam was
Women for Women”.
elected membership into the elite 24 Karat Club. Myriam received the Dedication &
The Gumuchian family has been in the Leadership award from New York Jeweler’s diamond and jewelry industry for more than
Group in 2012 (Myriam was the president
100 years. In 1979 Gumuchian was created in from 2010-2012). Winner of the Centurion New York by Anita and her daughters, 2012 Platinum design award for their threeMyriam and Patricia. Inspired by their
way
diamond
Gallop
necklace.
Most
European lineage the trio saw the need to
recently Gumuchian was the receiver of the
create a refined collection in order to better Centurion 2013 Platinum design award for serve the American market. From that vision, their Bowlero necklace as well as the AJA, Gumuchian’s “Designed by Women for
Armenian Jewelry Association Award for
Women” mantra was born, setting out to
Best International Emerging Brand of the
capture the confidence and beauty of all
year.>
women. Together the trio has created jewelry
recognized
for
its
creativity,
innovation and unequaled craftsmanship. Each design is brought to life and perfectly executed by highly-skilled Master jewelers in their atelier in New York City. Gumuchian’s commitment to excellence does not go unnoticed as they have been including: Excellence in Design from WJA (Women’s Jewelry Association) in 1995. 074 Jewellery Historian
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the recipient of many jewelry design awards
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> The luxury brand Gumuchian introduced a
earrings, pendants, rings, and five different
new apis-inspired collection at the JCK show bee-
related
charms.
“Many
of
our
on May 30th in support of the declining collections are inspired by nature” said Vice honeybee population that is affecting plant President of Sales, Myriam Gumuchian, “but life
and
food
supply
worldwide.
This
this aspect of nature didn’t just inspire the
collection we selected at the Jewellery designs, it also inspired us to be part of Historian to showcase.
something
bigger.
A
productive
hive
consists of successful teamwork, which we We definitely loved this nature inspired demonstrate daily in our New York office. The collection but we really loved that a portion
‘B’ collection represents our appreciation of
of the proceeds from the sale of the
these remarkable creatures and our goal is to
collection – which is simply named “B” – will bring awareness to this growing problem. If be
donated
HoneyLove.org,
to which
the
non-profit, honeybees continue to decline at the rate
supports
urban they are, we are all in big trouble.”
beekeeping and home gardens. According to recent studies, including those by the U.S. For
more
information
about
urban
Department of Agriculture, one in every beekeeping, visit www.honeylove.org three bites of food consumed in the United States
is
either
directly
or
indirectly
pollinated by bees. “I have never been afraid of bees. I think they’re
wonderful”
said
Patricia
Gumuchian, who was inspired to design the collection after reading numerous articles about the effects that a declining honeybee “I look around our office of women and think about the worker bees – who are the female bees – and how valuable they are to our livelihood.
Our
family
gatherings
and
holidays largely center on all types of foods. What would happen if these things just went away? The effects could be detrimental. We need to change what’s going on.” The suite itself is offered in 18K gold and includes both link and cuff bracelets, 078 Jewellery Historian
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population would have on the environment.
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cover story
MOUSSON ATELIER Beauty, setted in precious metals and stones Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little rebellion. At Mousson Atelier, they have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became innovators in what they do. Creativity has become an integral part of them, making them a contemporary brand of Haute Joaillerie.
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MOUSSON ATELIER Beauty, setted in precious metals and stones
Each bright personality is beautiful in its uniqueness. We appreciate those who can bravely make a statement and does not hesitate to reveal his or her identity every second. Mousson Atelier jewellery is unique, original and attractive - worthy setting for the extraordinary person. Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia. Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the company. We pay great importance to creating jewellery that is valuable ultimately in its beauty. Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little rebellion. For this reason at Mousson Atelier they have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became
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innovators in what they do. Creativity has become an integral part of them, and it allows them to give rise to more and more new images! A flash of inspiration allows them to leave the narrow frames of the ordinary life. They are able to find something beautiful in everything and show it to others. Their creations are a synonym of beauty, setted in precious metals and stones. They select the highest quality materials:18 K gold of different colors, precious stones of various shapes, colors, sizes and cuts. Together these componentsturnintoawidevarietyof unique creatures. The flawless creationofthejewelleryistheproduct of advanced technologies of jewelry industry & high-grade hand work. At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to showcase their unique creations.
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Life is limitless and always unexpected. This is fully reflected in the Mousson Atelier collections - a hymn to nature and life.
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A flash of inspiration allows Mousson Atelier to leave the narrow frames of the ordinary life. They are able to find something beautiful in everything – and show it to others. Their creations are beauty, set in precious metals and stones.
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Images of Mousson Atelier’s creations are born by nature – and therefore by life itself.
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Mousson Atelier is definitely able to find something beautiful in everything - and show it to others with a creation of perfection.
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Perfection reflects in the aesthetic sense of the creations by Mousson. Such a notable work, and marvelous collections, that you desire them all.
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Real wonders happen in the Mousson atelier workshop! Wonders that you will not be able to resist !
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Mousson Atelier collections live and constantly update. They feature exclusive jewellery pieces & stylish elegant products that are available to a wide audience with respect to each bright personality & its uniqueness.
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At Mousson Atelier, collections are the expert craftsmanship of the past and high-tech processes that look to the future.
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The flawless creation of the jewellery is the product of advanced technologies of jewellery industry, the best traditional techniques & highgrade hand work.
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Each piece in theMousson Atelier's Haute Joaillerie collection is a unique work of jewellery art, that you will not find anywhere in the world! These pieces not only have high design value but also an investment appeal.
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Mousson Atelier's jewellery is definitely created combining passion to the unique savoir-faire of high end jewellery.
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At Mousson Atelier, you can find the colors of every season in their unique jewelry pieces! Select the set of your favorite color combination but remember - the seasons change and jewelry stays forever.
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Mousson Atelier's jewellery is valuable ultimately in its beauty.
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Mousson Atelier jewellery is unique, original and attractive - worthy setting for the extraordinary person.
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Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style, ultimately in its beauty.
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Mousson Atelier – is a unique jewelry design brand, producing jewelry of creative design and high quality, as only few brands worldwide do.
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Mousson Atelier is passionate about creating stunning jewellery for their clientele; they consider themselves your partner. they consider a client’s success is their best reward.
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Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS
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The fruit of artisanal expertise With a flair for fusing East with West and a passion for running a truly independent family business, the House of Adler has long been at the centre of the jewellery world.
Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS Š ADLER JOAILLIERS
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The fruit of artisanal expertise
As the proverb rightly says, one swallow does not make a summer. Yet, is it not flowers that mesmerise and herald the arrival of warm weather? Flora, the Roman goddess of spring and vegetation, is one of the most important Roman deities. Every year, a great festival was held in her honour across the Empire to encourage a bountiful harvest.
Inspired by these Floralia festivals, Adler’s new collection breathes life into delicate, twinkling buds. Each one blooms forth, revealing its colourful attire and unique beauty with each passing day. The magic emanating from these precious bouquets can be perceived in the details: sapphire, ruby, and yellow and white diamond petals shine clear and bright, adorning several sets of jewellery. The necklaces, earrings and rings are perceptively set; composed of a dozen stones, these blossoming jewels can reach up to thirty carats, with cuts that vary between round, pear and oval.
The fruit of artisanal expertise, these 18kt whitegold creations set with exceptional gemstones blossom at a woman’s touch and give rise to spring on Earth.
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Gold pin with amethyst by Jean Baptiste Bonnard, c. 1824 - c. 1829 J.G. de Groot Jamin Bequest, Amsterdam Photo courtesy of Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
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The unique breathtaking beauty of gems
Amethyst
by Eva Kountouraki
Dionysus was the god of wine and fertility in ancient Greece, and just like the wine he represented, he had a dual nature. On one side he would bring joy and divine ecstasy and on the other side he would be brutal with a violent rage. One of those “angry” days when he was enraged with the mortals, he swore that he would release his tigers against the first human he would encounter. This is when he met Amethystos, a young and beautiful maiden, on her way to Diana’s temple. When the goddess saw the fierce animals running towards the girl, she instantly transformed her into a statue of colorless quartz in order to protect her. Dionysus awoke from the fierce rage he has fallen into, realized what he has done, and ashamed of his action he wept tears of wine over the statue. His tears stained the quartz and gave it a purple colour, creating the gemstone Amethyst. Ancient civilizations praised amethysts,
sometimes even more than other expensive gemstones. Romans and Greeks would drink wine from amethyst-laden cups as they thought that the gems would protect them from getting drunk and intoxicated. Actually, the term amethyst means notdrunk, sober. It was said that St. Valentine wore a ring that featured an amethyst with a carved cupid in it, while we meet amethysts in many religious jewelry, still today, as purple is thought to be the colour of Jesus Christ. Biblical references mention that amethyst is one of the twelve gems found in Aaron’s breastplate and that the twelfth foundation of the Holy City was built on amethyst. Amethysts are also protagonists in many royal regalia, like the beautiful amethyst tiara of Queen Mary of England and the Napoleonic amethyst parure of Queen Josephine of Leuchtenberg. >
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Photo courtesy of NICOLE LANDAW Š NICOLE LANDAW
These amazing amethyst earrings by Nicole Landaw, have been previously shown in our issue 7 > All these legends, symbols and history have given amethyst a precious and unique character that still keeps it popular among the consumers. However, in today’s markets, amethyst is no longer a very expensive gemstone as many sources have been discovered and exploited, that made the gem more plentiful and more affordable. Still, high quality amethysts that exhibit a strong warm purple colour with reddish tints are rare and would sell for premium prices. Amethyst is the most famous variety of the gemstone species quartz, a large family of well-known and widely used gems that includes, among others, the yellow to orange-red citrine, the colorless rock crystal, the light green praseolite, the pink rose quartz, and the brown smoky quartz. Quartz is one of the most important minerals in the earth. It is found in many types of rock and in varying environments. If we keep the same basic chemistry but change the crystal class and formation we find aggregate quartz types such as chalcedony that comes in many different varieties, like agate, onyx, chrysoprase and carnelian, just to name a few.>
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A gorgeous amethyst ring by Crow's Nest, previously shown in our issue 3.
Photo courtesy of CROW'S NEST Š CROW'S NEST
Amethyst is the most famous variety of the gemstone species quartz, a large family of well-known and widely used gems that includes, among others, the yellow to orange-red citrine, the colorless rock crystal, the light green praseolite, the pink rose quartz, and the brown smoky quartz. Jewellery Historian
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“Ancient civilizations praised amethysts, sometimes even more than other expensive gemstones. Romans and Greeks would drink wine from amethyst-laden cups as they thought that the gems would protect them from getting drunk and intoxicated. Actually, the term amethyst means not-drunk, sober.� This amazing Kara Ross cuff bracelet, has been previously shown in our issue 3
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Photo courtesy of FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY © FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY
These unique earrings created by Farah Khan Fine Jewellery, feature gorgeous amethysts as center stone accented with diamonds and rubies. Unique creations of Farah Khan fine jewellery have been featured previously on our issue 4.
> Amethyst, like all quartz, is a durable gemstone with good hardness and toughness, properties that make it suitable for everyday use in all types of jewelry. It can be carved in unique shapes and polished in all cutting styles. It is one of the most versatile gemstones in the market today as it can be included in all jewels, from very high-end to more affordable. Its long and valued history and important symbolism make an unusual couple with the fact that it is readily available, which makes this gemstone attractive to everyone. Amethyst’s colour range is very narrow; in fact, quartz must be purple in order to be called amethyst. To this we can only add secondary tints that create reddish purple or violetish purple colours, while its tone can vary from very light to very dark, with the medium tone being the most desirable, as the rich purple hue look its best when neither too dark, nor too light. Dionysus who was the only God to have one mortal parent. This fact has always made humans feel a special connection with him, with his passions, anger, and very “mortal” feelings. All these subconscious sensations are conveyed from antiquity to today in amethyst. In fact, amethyst is one of those gemstones deeply connected with humans for millennia. Although its availability may give the impression of a less valuable gem, its beauty and long history is here to remind us that there is no such thing as an inferior or a semiprecious gemstone. In fact, there is, and never has been, anything “semi” in the power that amethysts exert on humans..
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Photo courtesy of FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY © FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.
“Amethyst’s colour range is very narrow; in fact, quartz must be purple in order to be called amethyst. To this we can only add secondary tints that create reddish purple or violetish purple colours, while its tone can vary from very light to very dark, with the medium tone being the most desirable, as the rich purple hue look its best when neither too dark, nor too light.”
Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaborationwiththeItalianbranchof GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world.
Eva Kountouraki
At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.
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Our Faves In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. In this issue we invite you in our "Jardin Secret".
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Our Faves SYLVIE CORBELIN
LYDIA COURTEILLE ANA DE CCOSTA
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CARRERA Y CARRERA JEWELLERY THEATRE
GUMUSHIAN
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Our Faves
SYLVIE CORBELIN
DANIELA VILLEGAS
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ADLER JOAILLIERS
LE VIAN LYDIA COURTEILLE
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Our Faves
SHAWISH
L'DEZEN
THEODOROS
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CARRERA Y CARRERA
SYLVIE CORBELIN
CROW'S NEST
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Our Faves
FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY
KATHERINE JETTER
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MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
FABERGÉ
NICOLE LANDAW
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Our Faves
LYDIA COURTEILLE
JEWELLERY THEATRE
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CROW'S NEST
CARRERA Y CARRERA
FANOURAKIS
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Our Faves
LYDIA COURTEILLE
GUMUSHIAN
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LE VIAN
CARRERA Y CARRERA
PASQUALE BRUNI
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address book brands featured in this issue
ADLER www.adler-joailliers.com AVAKIAN www.avakian.com ANA DE COSTA www.anadecosta.com CARRERA Y CARRERA www.carreraycarrera.com CHIMENTO www.chimento.it CROW'S NEST www.crowsnestjewels.com DANIELA VILLEGAS www.danielavillegas.com FABERGÉ www.faberge.com FANOURAKIS www.fanourakis.gr FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com JEWELLERY THEATRE www.jewellerytheatre.com KATHERINE JETTER www.katherinejetter.com L'DEZEN www.ldezen.com LE VIAN
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www.levian.com LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com MEGHNA JEWELS www.meghnajewels.com MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru NICOLE LANDAW www.nicolelandaw.com OMI PRIVÉ www.omiprive.com ORLOV JEWELRY www.orlovjewelry.com PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com SYLVIE CORBELLIN www.sylvie-corbelin.com/sc/ SHAWISH www.shawish.ch THEODOROS www.theodoros.com.gr ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr
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