KACHEN LUXEMBOURG’S
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AUTUMN 2019
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FOOD
AND
LIFESTYLE
A Taste of Luxembourg
WP
Gammel Mønt, Copenhagen
Autumn
FALL RECIPES
10 quick soups The perfect cheese board
SEASONAL Beets, pears
KACHEN
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FEATURE
03/2019 - 9,95 €
Oil - liquid gold
INTERNATIONAL EDITION
L U X E M B O U R G ’ S F O O D M AG A Z I N E
“This is one of those spots in Copenhagen where the bright colours of the houses stand out, especially when the sun is shining.”
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MAGAZ I N E
KACHEN ON TOUR
Luxembourg • Nancy • Marrakech • Francorchamps
27/08/2019 11:01
Born in Switzerland in 1115.
From generation to generation. “Being a journalist is an exciting job. It’s a challenge, but one that I am very passionate about.” Cordula Schnuer, Luxembourg Times
In a world that is constantly reinventing itself, Le Gruyère AOP is your guarantee of an age-old, artisanal recipe, made with skills and expertise that are passed down through the generations. To create a taste experience like no other.
Cheeses from Switzerland. Switzerland. Naturally.
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www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com
27/08/2019 11:01 15/07/19 14:38
Dear readers, It is way past the eleventh hour. You will have heard it in the news over the past few weeks: the Amazon rainforest is burning, the permafrost is melting, and the salmon is dying in Alaska. These are all signs of the climate crisis that has become impossible to ignore and the catastrophe is home grown. You could expand the list of extraordinary climate events endlessly. Even here in Luxembourg we have begun to experience a taste of what is to come, indeed, what will come, if we continue as before. We have to rethink. We must act now. Humans are tough and perhaps we will somehow be able to adapt and survive. But now is the time to change the way we live and we would like to suggest ways to do so. KACHEN is more than just a food magazine. We love to cook and to provide you with delicious recipes, but we cannot ignore that we have to re-think our lives. The topic of lifestyle is also an important one for us, but in the end lifestyle simply means the way we live our daily lives.
Our government (as well as many companies and individuals) are already doing something to implement environmentally friendly mechanisms – but there is so much more to do. In our neighbouring countries serving free tap water in restaurants has long been a given and the demand to establish that practice here too is a step in the right direction. Sometimes, however, acceptance and/ or the putting into practice of these measures is in short supply, or, indeed, there is a lack of resources. Everybody is, by now, aware of the terms ‘no waste’, ‘recycling’, and ‘sustainability’. But what do they actually mean and how can we implement them properly in our daily lives? While not everybody has to become vegetarian and get rid of their car, if everybody managed to re-think their way of life and at least to attempt to change, we might actually achieve more than if only a few of us act consequently. Here at KACHEN, we would like to provide food for thought. Background articles and easily understandable explanations will hopefully aid to understand complex connections, and we have practical tips on how to re-think in terms of food and lifestyle, as well as introducing trailblazers in sustainability. Only if we all work together, we might have a chance to address the crisis and to save the future for our children. Let’s do this without drama and with as much enjoyment as possible, for that is what we Luxembourgers love best. Our next, the November issue, will be our 5-year anniversary edition, for we are celebrating five years since the beginning of KACHEN, and for this reason we will re-vamp the magazine and make it even more interesting and more beautiful! Now all that remains is to wish you a good ‘rentrée’ with as little stress as possible and enough time to try our delicious, quick, and simple recipes and to read all the fascinating articles! With best wishes from the entire team Yours, Bibi Wintersdorf Chief editor and publisher
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CONTENTS SECTIONS
RECIPES
INSPIRATION
4
Neu à la carte
12 Seasonal recipes: Cheese
121 Design
5
Books
26 Seasonal recipes: Soups
6
Restonews
36 Botanika
8
News
9
Lëtzebuerger Shopping
11
Products that we love
102 Culinary Thriller Part 3
104 KACHEN Blog Award 2020
Roasted garlic & leek soup with pan fried sage leaves
38 Bistrot recipes: Le Café de Paris 46 Baking Basics
Carrot Cake by Yves Jehanne
48 Step by step
Apple Cider Caramels
142 Susanne Jaspers’ chronicle
52 Dossier
154 Recipe directory and imprint
60 Seasonal fruit
Fancy a sip?
Oil: Liquid gold
5 facts about pears
68 Seasonal veggies
MAGAZINE 10 Made in Luxembourg: Nux 42 Do It Yourself
Give aways: fast chestnut pralines, chestnut and chocolate spread, chestnut muffins
50 Milly‘s Fun Facts 80 Passions
Food-a-Mental
82 Passions
Chadi’s Falafel Pop-Up
96 Portrait of a chef
Jérémmy Parjouet, Strassen’s cook with a double M
100 Restaurant portrait
Duly arrived at the Gare in Bech
5 facts about beets
74 Recipes from René Mathieu
Bye-Bye autumn sadness
WELLBEING 126 Balance: Dr. Keipes: Does autumn make you hungry?
128 Ayurveda
Indian Chai, warm porridge with stewed apple and pumpkin from the oven
131 Carlo Sauber
An assurance for plant diversity on our plates
132 Meat Free Monday
Autumn vegetable pie
134 Cooking with Bertrand
Ginger, an exquisite boost!
Beets
86 A world of recipes
KACHEN ON TOUR
88 Grandmother’s recipe
136 Luxembourg
90 Farmer’s recipe
140 Events
American cuisine
Île flottante
The best apple pie
92 Lëtzebuerger Rëndfleesch
Burger ‘Terroir’ with local beef
94 Typically Luxembourgish Trout à la Meunière
Nordic Walking Autumn in Luxembourg
143 Kachen on Tour
A culinary weekend in Lyon
144 Luxair Tours: Marrakech 148 CFL: Nancy 152 Greater Region
WINE
The Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps
109 Luxembourgish vintner families Domaine Henri Ruppert
112 Wine News 114 Dossier
Amarula & Baileys - Super sweet and scrumptious
116 Dossier
The pearls of the Champagne region
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NEU À LA CARTE
AN APPETITE FOR BREAKFAST AND COFFEE It used to be the case that breakfast was a private moment. Spent alone at home or in the circle of your closest family members. The trend for boozy breakfasts and brunches changed that breakfast tradition. Small coffee bars opened everywhere and the term ‘barista’ became a trend in itself; sometimes the term coffee-sommelier is even used. The emphasis in these establishments should be on the coffee, however, the breakfast served is usually not up to scratch. If you’re looking for a traditional continental breakfast with bells and whistles – different kinds of bread, eggs, jam, hams, and cheese – one must turn to the restaurants of the big hotels. For the other establishments you will mostly find muesli, yoghurt, fresh fruit and juices, croissants and pains au chocolat. Of course, every place has its own selection, the most famous of them, the Belgian Cafés Knopes, gets their coffee beans from their own roasting facility. The Knopes roasting facility has been present in the Luxembourgish capital for a while with a small station in the supermarket Alima Belair. It has now moved its main branch into the concept store Come à la Maison in Hollerich. There you will be expertly advised in the buying of coffee and coffee machines. Perhaps the most pleasant atmosphere to have a coffee, however, can be found in a new Knopes Café in the Rue Dicks, directly opposite the night club Saumur Crystal Club, and right next to a pretty boutique selling clothes and accessories. A further meeting point for those coffee lovers looking for something more hip and alternative, look to the Bloom Café on the Place de Strasbourg. It has three comfortable rooms in a sleek, Scandinavian style. Here, the brewing of coffee is properly celebrated and the small dishes that you can order with your drink promise indulgence. Choose from croissants or pains au chocolate for breakfast, soups, quiche, and avocado toast for lunch, and cheesecake and banana bread in the afternoon. Starting this autumn you will also find hearty snacks, like ham and cheese sandwiches. Although those with a sweet tooth will not miss out on cakes and jam. Another point of interest will be their regular art exhibitions introducing new talent.
Another place that every hipster should know is Cereal Lovers in Cour des Capucins. Here you will find people sitting with their laptops at one of the high tables on the terrace or inside at the window. You can get a bowl of homemade yoghurt and muesli. The clients are young, active in the business world and environmentally friendly. A few months ago a new place opened in the Rue Notre-Dame, not far from another café called Café Inn, where you can get excellent sandwiches. The new place is called Grupetto and is aimed specifically at cyclists. It was established by the owner of the Snooze pub (Rue Philippe II) together with a group of friends - all die hard fans of the Tour de France and the Giro d’Italia. Grupetto has a young and fresh vibe and a massive screen on which you can watch current cycle events while having your breakfast. There are cakes and other delicacies and for lunch there is a menu for 12 euros. A special highlight is Ready in Limpertsberg where the women running the place have established a dapper café in the Avenue du Bois. They have just celebrated their five-year anniversary. They serve great smoothies and homemade cakes – all in generous portions. The ‘Iced everything’ is an especially original concept: on hot summer days every coffee is served as an iced coffee. Besides these favourites of mine there are of course other cafés that coffee lovers should check out. The Golden Bean (Rue Chimay & Esch/Belval), the Chique-o-Latte (Rue des Bains), which opened just under a year ago, Coffee Fellows (Place du Paris, Rue du Curé, Boulevard Kennedy), and many others. I suggest you go where you like the way they serve coffee: sitting down or a quick sip at the bar. The same principal works also for the kind of coffee you order: black or with milk and/ or sugar. Let’s be honest: it’s all a matter of taste anyway!
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BOOKS
150 Restaurants You Need to Visit Before You Die by Amélie Vincent (The Foodalist) Hardcover: 256 pages ISBN: ISBN 9789401449120 Publication date: August 15, 2019 Lannoo Publishers A selection of the 150 loveliest international restaurants, that each have a unique story to tell. An exclusive selection made by popular food blogger Amélie Vincent „Reflecting the international food scene, this book presents a bucket list showing today‘s most inspiring gourmet experiences.“ Chefs, gastronomy and lifestyle are hot topics. However, finding the ultimate dining experience around the world might be challenging and can be disappointing. From Paris (Plaza Athénée, Septime) and Mexico City (Quintonil, Lorea) to Tokyo (Den, Florilège, Sushi Saito), Amélie Vincent, also known as The Foodalist, selects 150 mustvisit restaurants around the world in her latest book 150 Restaurants
You Need to Visit before You Die. These culinary hotspots promise a unique experience to the diners, through exquisite menus, original designs and creative chefs. Founder of The Foodalist Communication Agency (www.thefoodalist.com), Amélie Vincent, is an expert in revealing culinary trends worldwide. She has the world‘s best chefs in her network and works with the most influential media around the world. Thanks to her photographer eye and her experience as a culinary journalist, 150 Restaurants You Need to Visit before You Die is the ultimate bucket list for every single foodie and gourmet traveller and the sequel to the equally standout book 150 Bars You Need to Visit Before You Die.
The Forest Feast Mediterranean Simple Vegetarian Recipes Inspired by My Travels By Erin Gleeson ISBN: 9781419738128 Publication date: 17th September 2019 Abrams Books Bestselling author returns with a gorgeously illustrated cookbook that will transport you to the Mediterranean coast. The Forest Feast blog readers have been transported to Erin Gleeson’s picturesque cabin in the woods through her stunning photography of magical gatherings and vibrant vegetarian cooking.
WIN
We are giving away one copies of the bookTHE FOREST FEAST MEDITERRANEAN. Simply answer the following question: Who is the publisher of the book? Send the correct answer withyour name and address and the keyword FOREST FEAST to gewinnen@kachen.lu Submission deadline is 31 October 2019
I Can Cook Vegan By Isa Chandra Moskowitz ISBN: 9781419732416 Publication date: 29th October 2019 Abrams Books Isa Chandra Moskowitz is the undisputed queen of vegan home cooking. Her readers turn to her for recipes that work, whether they‘re looking for cupcakes that adhere to their diet or comforting Thanksgiving dinners that taste as satisfying as their childhood memories.
WIN
We are giving away one copies of the book I CAN COOK VEGAN. Simply answer the following question: Who is the publisher of the book? Send the correct answer withyour name and address and the keyword I CAN COOK VEGAN to gewinnen@kachen.lu Submission deadline is 31 October 2019 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 5
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Quai STEFFEN
After more than a year of work, and with the success of their takeaway, the Steffen Group is ready to open its new restaurant ‘Le Quai Steffen’. Passionate about sustainable development the Steffen Group presents a restaurant that offers a wide range of healthy and natural products. Travellers, visitors, and strollers will find a gastronomic refuge in the station district and succumb to the charm of contemporary design. The panoramic photos will take you on a journey through the history of the place. Opening hours: every day from 5am to 10pm 13, Place de la Gare - L-1616 Luxembourg Tel (+352) 28 83 00 1 www.lequaisteffen.lu
Boutique Dammann Frères The iconic brand ‘Dammann Frères’ is now creating a delicious and colourful universe of tea in Luxembourg. Immerse yourself in the refined and varied world of more than 300 different tea varieties. The history of the brand goes back to the 17th century, when Ludwig XIV granted Sir Damame the exclusive right to sell tea. The extravagant tea world of Dammann Frères invites you to taste and discover the most extraordinary flavours. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 9:30 am - 6:30 pm 8, avenue de la Porte Neuve - L-2227 Luxembourg Tel.: (+352) 26 20 10 74 www.dammann.fr
La Belle Aventure A new and beautiful adventure in the heart of Luxembourg: this is what the restaurant ‘La Belle Aventure’ promises. With its three different types of menu, the café-restaurant caters to all tastes and satisfies even the most discerning gourmets. Escape the stress of the everyday during the daily Happy Hour and benefit from an adapted menu in the afternoon as well. Opening hours: Mon-Sa. 9:30 am - 11:00 pm Happy Hour Mo.-Sa. 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm 17, avenue Monterey - L-2163 Luxembourg Tel. (+352) 26 20 33 71 www.labelleaventure.lu
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RESTONEWS
Le Privé A combination of French, modern, and traditional cuisine: ‘Le Privé’ offers its customers a menu that is strongly based on French cuisine without forgoing any trends. The warm ambience, as well as its ideal location right next to Luxembourg‘s railway station, invites you to eat excellent dishes. Cocktail lovers can also discover new, extravagant variations. Opening hours: Mon-Thu 11:30 am - 2:00 pm and 6:00-10:00 pm Fr. 11:30 am - 2:15 pm and 6:00 pm - 10:30 pm Sat. 6:00 pm - 10:30 pm 47, rue de Bonnevoie - L-1260 Luxembourg - Tel : (+352) 26 12 34 76 or (+352) 621 966 333 www.leprive.lu
Atelier Windsor Inspired by the success of their quality cuisine the ‘Atelier Windsor’ moved from Bertrange to the capital. In spite of spatial changes, Jan Schneidewind and Sébastien Périé remain true to their motto: to teach their guests how to discover and appreciate a seasonal and authentic cuisine by combining the modern with the classic. In order to respond even better to the needs of their customers, the focus is now on further developing their kitchen and their catering range. Opening hours: Mon-Sun 12:00 noon - 2:00 pm and 7:00 pm-9:30 pm 2, rue Rollingerground, place de l‘étoile - L-2440 Luxembourg Tel. (+352) 28 13 88 www.atelierwindsor.lu
Victorine - Cuisine urbaine Charm, the love of cooking, and homemade food: these are the qualities that Pascal Brasseur wants to bring closer to the visitors of his new, and now third, restaurant ‘Victorine’ on the Cloche d‘Or. Strongly influenced by his childhood and his grandmother, Victorine, he tries to give people back the pleasure of healthy, balanced, and homemade food. To ensure that even the most stressed among us are always provided with healthy meals, Victorine also offers its ‘Fast Goods’ to take away. Opening hours: Mon-Thu 8:00 am-8:00 pm Fr. 8:00 am - 9:00 pm Sat. 8:00 am - 7:00 pm Rue Frederic Guillaume Raiffeisen - L-2411 Luxembourg Tel. (+352) 26 12 30 88 www.victorine.lu
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NEWS
Secret tips from local experts! The principle is simple: people with knowledge of local places recommend the best and most interesting places. In the app, you can save places you have already visited, plan your routes and have them always to hand. In addition, you can thus share your discoveries more easily with family and friends. Local businesses can also use the app to share special places with their clients and visitors. But how does it work exactly? It starts with a ‘spot’ on a place suggested by somebody working in tourism or any other person ‘knowledgeable’ of the locality. Then this ‘spot’ can be called up in the ‘maps’ where you can also find official and private guides. In order to make the recommendations of places easier and more exciting KACHEN has joined forces with SPOTICLE and we will share our secret tips. Keep your eyes open for our best ‘spots’! The app is free and can be downloaded on iOS and android devices. www.spoticle.com
The fight against food waste with Food for All (F4A)
THE PLACE FOR A GOURMET RENDEZVOUS For the first ‘Salon des Douceurs’ fair at the beginning of October the focus will be on chocolate, pastries, and other sweet delicacies. The organising team of ‘The Storm’ will, as usual, surprise with the unexpected. For two amateur competitions the topics are ‘chocolate cake’ and ‘cakes from my childhood’ and the creations will be judged by a team of master bakers and industry experts, one of whom is Yves Jehanne, the official patron of the event and current Chef Pâtissier for Steffen Traiteur, known for his talent and the quality of his work. The fair presents the opportunity to discover exhibitors from all over Europe, and of course from Luxembourg, who will be introducing an array of top-quality products. Seven emerging pastry chefs from Sucrés de Lux will also be present and will be inspiring visitors with their talent and their passion for patisserie. As KACHEN is the official partner of the fair Bibi Wintersdorf will, naturally, also be a member of the jury. In addition, we will have a stand at the fair where we will be presenting numerous actions and guests. We look forward to seeing you October 5th and 6th at Luxexpo The Box! www.salondesdouceurs.lu
What would you say to a technological solution for all food waste from supermarkets? The young Luxembourgish start-up F4A (Food for All) knows how to get it done. They have tasked themselves with helping supermarkets distribute their stock more efficiently and, at the same time, have founded a community of no-food waste-heroes. The facts is that over a third of all food production worldwide is wasted and more than 1.3 million tons of food is thrown away or lost. High time to act. If you want to become involved, all you need to do is download the free app, which will tell you where you can buy products that are about to expire in which supermarkets. Furthermore, the app wants to motivate and inspire budding cooks by providing recipe videos alongside the products found in the supermarkets. Since its conception a few months ago F4A is already available in two Luxembourgish supermarkets and has prevented 80 % of food going to waste. The start-up has only just begun, however, and will soon be partnered by more supermarkets in the country. When will you join up? www.f4a.icu
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n Lëtzebuerger
Shopping n
by LUXEMBOURG HOUSE & KACHEN MAGAZIN
HONEY BOX LUXEMBOURG CITY HUNNEGKESCHT 33,00 €
ELLIE 10CM / 20CM JOELART 39,95 € / 69,95 €
T-SHIRT CROWN JACQUES SCHNEIDER 30,00 €
CHILDREN’S SET
MELLIS BEER
UMBRELLA LUXEMBOURG
NORDIC STELLA 33,99 €
STUFF BRAUEREI 3,35 €
MUSEAL 45,00 €
WRAPPPING PAPER MELUSINA
CARD GAME
SCARF SAKANANA
SYMBOL 7,50 €
NINA TOMAS 25,00 €
LES SUTRAS 195,00 €
CANDLE 70 G „ENERGY“
CANDLE 70 G „DREAMS”
CANDLE 70 G „FOCUS“
CANDLE 70 G „PEACE“
DEEVA CANDLES 15,00 €
DEEVA CANDLES 15,00 €
DEEVA CANDLES 15,00 €
DEEVA CANDLES 15,00 €
2, Rue de l'Eau L-1449 Luxemburg (+352) 26 26 26 27 moien@luxembourghouse.lu
Opening hours: Tues through Sun from 10.00 am until 6.30 pm Sat from 9.00 am until 6.30 pm
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MADE IN LUXEMBOURG
The sweetest temptation since the invention of spreads How lucky that, six years ago, she had the idea to make her own nut butter. That this idea would grow into her own business was not originally Marianne Da Silva Cardozo’s plan. ‘I’m from a family of entrepreneurs. Because of this, I always liked the idea of being my own boss. But the idea for ‘Nux’ happened kind of accidentally,’ says the native Venezuelan. She started by selling her homemade spreads to friends and so her business, founded in 2015 under the name ‘Nux Organic Foods’, grew slowly from there.
The pure spreads do not contain any kind of additives, while some of the combinations are refined with sea salt. Until recently, Marianne made all of her products herself. She made the spreads with three different machines, packed them, and sold them in her online shop, as well as in several Naturata Bio Marchés, in Glow, and in other specialist shops. ‘I realized at the end of last year that I was not able to fulfil the demand on my own anymore. It was a difficult but necessary decision to expand, and, after careful research, I finally found a suitable partner in the Netherlands,’ says the entrepreneur. The production is still artisanal, and subscribes to the same careful criteria as before when the production floor was the home of the Da Silvas. Thanks to the support of her husband Luis, who ‘always finds an answer,’ her sister Odette, who supports her with the branding, and Maxine Mantel, who is responsible for the production, Marianne has now more time to develop new recipes. We say that’s an excellent thing!
For more information and to find all the stores where Nux is stocked, go to: www.nuxorganicfoods.com
TEXT JESSIKA MARIA RAUCH PHOTO YANNICK BURROWS
On offer are various butter spreads, each made from 100 % peanuts, almonds, cashews, or coconuts. You can also get spreads, which combine nuts with cinnamon, chia seeds, or cocoa. All ingredients are natural and Marianne sources them from their origin countries. That means that hazelnuts and almonds come from Europe and exotic nut varieties come from the tropical regions of Asia and Africa. Quality benchmarks for the raw materials are high and Marianne places an emphasis on fair conditions for the farmers and suppliers.
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PRODUCTS THAT WE LOVE
OBERWEIS
CONFECTIONARY WITH FLORAL AND CITRUS NOTES Throughout autumn, Maison Oberweis will introduce you to a wide selection of confectionary made with citrus fruit. We have already had the pleasure of discovering their latest creation, the ‘desire’: a subtle black ganache with fresh pink grapefruit and Timut pepper, infused in a green tea specially selected by Jeff Oberweis, revealing floral and citrus notes. Enough to turn the heads of chocolate lovers. www.oberweis.lu
GINGER,
THE WONDERFUL TUBER! Ben‘s Ginger is a BIO ginger concentrate, containing little sugar and a high ginger content, made from fresh and carefully selected Peruvian ginger and produced with much love and physical work in a small factory. Ben‘s Ginger is not cooked but pasteurized just before bottling to preserve the nutrients it contains. The gentle production process and the ingredients make Ben‘s Ginger ideal for ginger spritzer, ginger tea, cocktails, and much more ... Find many stimulating recipes at www.bensginger.de . By the way, the creative head behind Ben‘s Ginger is Ben Kettels from Luxembourg, who lives in Munich!
VALORLUX
SUPERBAG, YOUR REUSABLE BAG FOR FRUIT AND VEGETABLES! Available since June 25th, the KACHEN team would like to put a spotlight on Valorlux‘s initiative to reduce the use of ultra-light single-use plastic bags in the fruit and vegetable aisles, and in other departments that stock bulk-buy items. The Superbag, made of recyclable and machine washable material, aims to reduce the consumption of single-use plastic bags by 90%. You too can buy your own reusable shopping bag and contribute to reducing the plastic consumption in your own life. www.valorlux.lu
WINNERS
Giada Kocht: Sandy Kayser, Martine Atten Ultimativ Tasty: Rolande Osweiler, Malou Lux Gemüse und Kräuter im Garten: BOOKS Anne-Marie Tinta Vegan & Raw: Dafni Acedo, Andreas Meyer Die vegetarische Fünf-Zutaten-Küche: Icing on the cake: Rebecca Ray Jeia Scholtus Once upon a chef: Isabelle Ramos-Ghetti Ayurveda for Life: Josiane Dupont-Schmit Jardin de chefs: Elisa Gesellchen, Alexandra Pancher STORTZ Nr. 1: Verena Heinz from the KACHEN summer issue 2019
DUTCH OVEN
Christine Schweich, Edouard Weber
NOBLE DROPS Monique Freimann LUXAIR TOURS SPLIT Mireille Eischen-Grède
CFL KOBLENZ Helga Siebenaler 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 11
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‘CHEESE IS ADDICTIVE’ The myth of the milk product
Cheese is quite rightly one of the most popular foods around. The favoured, high-calorie product is produced in diverse ways in many countries and cultures. Initially created as a method to conserve milk products, now the cult surrounding cheese goes far beyond that. There is even a rumour that cheese is addictive. Milk contains the protein casein, which is converted during digestion into the opiate-like casomorphin. In cheese these proteins are concentrated, which could play a factor in the astonishing popularity of this product.
Whether casomorphins really are addictive by activating the reward centre in our brain and creating something like a state of intoxication is highly controversial. Some argue that casomorphins in breast milk strengthen the bond between mother and child and calm the child during breast-feeding. Others believe that these compounds do not even leave our digestive tracts and are simply secreted. Research results have not yet provided clear-cut answers. It doesn’t really matter. Cheese will, either way, stay a delicacy!
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Vine tomatoes with ricotta and basil foam serves 8
30 minutes
For the ricotta tomatoes • 400 g ricotta cream • fresh thyme • salt and black pepper, to taste • 800 g vine tomatoes • basil foam, to serve For the basil foam • 1 ½ cup soy or almond milk • 5-6 basil sprigs • 1 garlic clove, peeled • pinch of salt
Ricotta tomatoes 1 Preheat the oven to 180 °C. In a bowl, mix the ricotta cream, thyme, salt and pepper. Partially cut open the vine tomatoes and stuff them with the ricotta mixture. 2 Put in an ovenproof dish and roast for 8 minutes. Serve with the basil foam. Basil foam 1 Remove the leaves from the basil sprigs. Bring milk to a boil with basil stems and garlic clove. Remove from heat, add salt and let cool. 2 Remove stems and
garlic clove, pour milk into a glass and add the basil leaves. Angle the blade and whip with a hand blender to obtain a foam. 3 Spoon the foam onto the tomatoes and serve immediately. Use the non-foamy remainder in pasta or in a smoothie. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 13
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Crisp roast duck with baby beetroot and chèvre salad serves 8-10 150 minutes including 120 minutes baking time
For the duck • 2 whole ducks (approximately 1.8–2 kg) • ½ orange, cut into two wedges • ½ lemon, cut into two wedges • a few sprigs of fresh thyme • salt and black pepper, to taste For the beetroot salad • 4 x 200g punnets of baby beetroots • 100 ml olive oil • 1 tsp Dijon mustard • 2 tbsp lemon juice • salt and black pepper, to taste • 250 g goat’s cheese • micro herbs, to garnish Crisp roast Duck 1 Preheat the oven to 170 °C on a convection setting. 2 Rinse the ducks under cold water and remove the giblets. Place the ducks on a cutting board and remove the wing tips. Prick the skin on the breasts with a skewer. Stuff the cavity of each duck with an orange and lemon wedge, and a few sprigs of thyme. 3 Place
the ducks in a roasting tray on their backs and add one cup of water to the tray. Season with salt and pepper. Roast the ducks uncovered in the oven for 100-120 minutes, then set them aside to cool before putting them in the fridge for at least one hour. 4 Remove the ducks from the fridge and, using a sharp knife, cut them in half, then remove all but the thigh and breast bones. Use the knife to separate the breasts from the thighs carefully. This will give you four portions from each duck. 5 Before serving, heat the oven grill to 220 °C. Grill the portions at the top of the oven until the skin is crispy. Serve with baby beetroot and goats’ cheese salad. Baby beetroot salad 1 Boil the baby beetroots until they are al dente. Set them aside to cool. 2 To prepare the dressing, combine the olive oil, mustard, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. 3 Quarter the beetroots and crumble the goat’s cheese, then combine them in a bowl. Drizzle the dressing on top and serve garnished with micro herbs.
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ONLY FOR CONNOISSEURS...
75 cl
9.99 (13.32/l)
Ronco di Sassi An exceptional wine from Italy, garnet, full and sweet with aromas of blackberries, spices, vanilla and chocolate. - Montepulciano, Primitivo, Aglianico - Ideal to accompany meat, pasta and cheese courses Serving temperature: 17-18 °C
Luca Maroni
98
Points
ALDI, EVERYDAY AMAZING! 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 15
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Creamed ricotta cheesecake with mixed berry compote serves 8-10 60 minutes including 15 minutes chilling time and 40 minutes baking time
For the cheesecake • 400 g amaretti biscuits • 125 g melted butter • 750 g creamed ricotta cheese • 2 x 400 g (2 tins) of condensed milk • 125 ml freshly squeezed lemon juice • 250 ml sugar • 10 ml vanilla custard powder • 250 ml chilled cream For the mixed berry compote • 250 ml sugar • 50 ml water • 5 ml vanilla extract • 500 g frozen mixed berries Cheesecake 1 To make the base, finely blend the amaretti biscuits in a food processor. Pour the crumbs into a mixing bowl, add half of the melted butter and mix well, then add the remaining butter a little at a time until the mixture sticks together. 2 Prepare a 23cm spring-form cake pan by coating the inside with butter. Use your fingertips to press the biscuit mixture into the pan to form a base about 5mm thick. Work the base up the sides with
your thumb until it is about 4cm high, then chill it in the fridge for 15 minutes. 3 Preheat the oven to 180 °C. 4 To make the filling, whisk the ricotta, condensed milk, lemon juice, sugar and custard powder in a large bowl until it is smooth. 5 Whip the chilled cream until soft peaks form and fold it into the ricotta mixture using a spatula. 6 Pour this into the chilled base and bake for 30 minutes or until it is light brown on top. Do not open the oven during baking. Remove the cheesecake and cool it on a rack. Berry compote 1 Heat the sugar, water, and vanilla extract in a medium saucepan
until the sugar has dissolved, stirring gently with a wooden spoon. Add the frozen berries and simmer over a low heat. Once the berries have defrosted remove them from the liquid and set them aside. 2 Turn up the heat and boil the liquid until it has reduced and is syrupy, then remove it from the heat, add the berries again and stir gently. Set the compote aside to cool as it and the cheesecake are best served at room temperature. To serve, slice the cheesecake and spoon the compote on top of each slice.
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WINE AND finding perfect CHEESE harmony There are countless wine and cheese varieties and it is frequently difficult to combine them effectively. The cheese is, however, always the deciding factor. KACHEN has asked David Boutonnet, wine grower and owner of the Domaine MUJOLAN, to clarify the matter. Generally, red wine and cheese do not go well together since the milk fat of the cheese and the tannins in the wine do not harmonize well. Indeed, the strong taste of the wine overshadows the gentle flavour of the cheese, and the fatty nature of the cheese brings out and intensifies the dryness of the wine. This is why, if you want to combine red wine and cheese, you should choose a light and not very dry wine or an old red wine with very few or unobtrusive tannins. The best combination of cheese and wine can be achieved with a white wine. Boutonnet goes even further and suggests one chooses both wine and cheese from the same region. That combination can never fail. He has selected the following combinations of traditional cheese varieties and white wines for you:
Goat’s cheese The star among the cheeses belongs in an entirely separate category. Because this cheese can be creamy, fresh, or dry, this has to be taken into account when choosing the accompanying wine. Thus, for a creamy or fresh goat’s cheese it makes more sense to decide for a dry and, at the same time, fruity white wine, such as a Chardonnay. When the cheese is dry go for a lighter white wine such as a Sauvignon.
Emmenthal and Comté These cheeses belong to the kind that are pressed and re-heated and harmonize perfectly with dry and fruity white wine such as the Mujolan Oppium White.
Camembert This equally popular soft cheese with its precious mould rind is often enjoyed with red wine. Because of its creamy consistency, choose a light red wine with unobtrusive tannins, such as a Pinot Noir from Burgundy or Alsace: an interesting choice..
Roquefort A classic blue mould cheese with a strong nutty to bitter flavour. Soften the strong flavour with a sweet or semi-dry wine so that the cheese tastes milder and its creamy texture is beautifully rounded off. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 17
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APPENZELLER Switzerland
BRIE
Luxembourg
TÊTE DE MOINE Switzerland
BERDORFER GOAT’S CHEESE Luxembourg
VACHERIN FRIBOURGEOIS Switzerland
ROUDE BOUF Luxembourg
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BERDORFER WITH HERBS Luxembourg
How to prepare the perfect Cheeseboard!
CRANBERRY GOAT’S CHEESE France
PAPAYA GOAT’S CHEESE France
GRUYÈRE DES GROTTES Switzerland
In collaboration with
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SWISS CHEESE A mountain of enjoyment ! Switzerland is known for its mountains, its alpine pastures, its cows, and of course… its cheese! Only few countries can boast such a variety: soft cheese, semi-hard cheese, hard cheese, extra hard cheese… the creativity and knowhow of the Swiss knows little bounds and lovers of their delicious products have a difficult choice to make. While Gruère AOP, Tête de Moine AOP, or Emmentaler AOP are widely known, here, some of the delicacies are hardly known at all. KACHEN offers you a small review.
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ADVERTORIAL
Quality, skill and a respect for Nature Nature plays an important role in Switzerland and is treated with While the countryside is omnipresent in the development of the outmost respect. That is why AOPs are so important. The Swiss cheese, there is a specific ingredient that is, of course, Appellations d’Origine Protégées (Protected essential: the milk. Good quality milk delivers «Switzerland has a multitude of Designation of Origin) label products, which the taste of the Swiss cheese, thanks to which cheeses that are the result of traditional they are counted as some of the best cheeses derive their characters from their geographical location, the soil and climactic conditions, as manufacturing methods, age-old know- in the world. Which is why the cows play an well as technical factors and the role of human invaluable role. They have to be treated well how, refining techniques. In short, the contribution. The AOP are a strong assurance types of cheese are as diverse and varied and fed as naturally as possible so that they of quality, as they are protected by Swiss and produce good quality milk. You will often as the Swiss terroirs.» European legislation. In other words: they can find them on the plains and pastures in only be produced in a strictly defined region, controlled from the Switzerland, where one can find more than a hundred different production of raw materials up to the finished product. plant species. Furthermore, Swiss cheese producers are obliged to abstain from using additives.
Our selection Switzerland boasts a large variety of cheeses, from Gruyère AOP to Raclette du Valais AOP or even the Vacherin Fribourgeois. For this reason, our team has chosen a selection of Swiss cheeses that can be used in many different recipes or simply served on a platter. • Vacherin Mont-d’Or AOP – this soft cheese comes from the Swiss Jura Mountains. An inimitable cheese produced in the Vaud Alps with their lush pastures. This cheese derives its typical flavour through a girdle of local pine bark. • Swiss Tilsiter – one of the most valued cheeses in Switzerland. The recipe has not changed since 1893.
A never-ending world of flavours With more than 590 Swiss cheese varieties to choose from the delights are endless. The entire cheese palette can be divided into four groups: Extra hard cheese matures for an especially long time. Hard cheese can generally be used for cold and warm dishes, as well as simply on bread. Serve Gruyère AOP, Emmentaler AOP, or Etivaz AOP and you will have guaranteed success! Tête de Moine AOP or Swiss Raclette cheese are big names among the semi-hard cheeses. The mature process for soft cheese takes, in contrast to the extra hard, semi-hard and hard cheeses, only a few weeks.
• Berner Alp- und Hobelkäse AOP – the pride of the people from Bern. A delicious cheese produced in summer from the fresh and rich milk of the cows grazing on the alpine pastures.
All cheese varieties benefit from being served with a nice glass of wine, or even – why not – a cup of tea. Don’t forget to serve your cheese with a cottage loaf, grapes, and nuts.
• Tomme Vaudoise – a soft cheese from the French-speaking part of Switzerland. The white mould cheese has a creamy consistency and is produced in the cantons Waadt and Genf. It is perfect on dessert platter but also ideal as a snack.
Feeling hungry? Find more information about all the different Swiss cheeses at www.fromagesdesuisse.be 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 21
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Triple-storey sandwich with Gruyère AOP Switzerland serves 4
15 minutes + 15 minutes cooking time
• 12 slices of toast bread • 2 tbsp butter • 5 tbsp crème fraîche • 50 g Gruyère AOP cheese, grated • 8 slices of Gruyère AOP • 100 g cooked ham, chiffonade-style • 2 tomatoes, sliced • salt, pepper
1 Preheat the oven to 220 °C. Spread butter onto the bread slices. Set aside. 2 Mix the crème fraîche with the grated Gruyère PDO, salt, and pepper. 3 Place 4 toasts onto the work surface. Spread the Gru-
yère AOP cream, slices of Gruyère AOP, cooked ham, and tomato on the toast. 4 Place another toast on top and garnish it in the same way. 5 Finish with a buttered toast. Tie with food string. Place the croque-monsieur in an ovenproof dish. Bake for 15-18 minutes. Tip: Delicious with small onions, pickles and a lamb’s lettuce salad.
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Onionsoup with Gruyère AOP serves 4
10 minutes + 30 minutes cooking time
• 1 garlic head, cap removed • olive oil • 400 g onions, finely chopped • 4 stalks celery, cut into slices • 1.5 l vegetable or poultry broth • 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley tied with string) • 1 pinch of nutmeg
Bruschetta with Gruyère AOP • 4 slices of bread, toasted • 4 tbsp of grated Gruyère AOP • salt, pepper
1 Preheat the oven to 200 °C. Place the garlic head in a square of aluminum foil. Pour 1 tablespoon olive oil into the papillote, season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with thyme. 2 In a bowl, mix the onion and celery with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Spread onto a baking sheet. Roast in the oven together with the garlic for 20 minutes. Set aside the garlic and vegetables. 3 In a thick-bottomed pot bring the broth to a boil. Add the onions and celery. Cover and continue to cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. 4 Crush the roasted garlic in a bowl and add it to the soup. 5 Preheat the oven grill. Sprinkle the bread slices with the grated Gruyère AOP. Leave them to brown under the grill for a few minutes. Set aside. 6 Remove the bouquet garni from the soup. Add the nutmeg and continue to cook for 1 minute. Divide the soup into bowls or soup plates. Serve with bruschetta au gratin. Tip: Accompanied by a salad of young shoots flavoured with hazelnut oil, this soup is ideal as light lunch. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 23
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Freekeh with aubergine, sweet potatoes and zucchini served with Gruyère AOP réserve crisps serves 4
20 minutes + 15 minutes cooking time
• 240 g of freekeh* • 1 can (240 g) chickpeas, rinsed and drained • 1 aubergine, cubed • 2 sweet potatoes, diced • 1 courgette, diced • olive oil • 1 tbsp thyme • 1 handful of spinach • salt, pepper For the filling: Gruyère AOP Réserve cheese chips 1 Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Prepare the freekeh
according to the instructions on the packaging. 2 Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix the chickpeas, aubergine,
sweet potatoes, and courgette with 2 tablespoons olive oil, thyme, salt, and pepper. Spread the vegetables on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Roast in the oven for 15-18 minutes. 3 Sauté the spinach leaves briefly in 1 tablespoon olive oil. 4 Mix the freekeh with the remaining olive oil, chickpeas, aubergine, sweet potatoes, courgette, and spinach. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Garnish with Gruyère AOP crisps.
* Did you know? As early as the 13th century, freekeh (or frik), a variety of durum wheat, harvested before maturity and nicknamed ‘green wheat’, was consumed in countries such as Jordan, Palestine, Lebanon, Egypt or Morocco.
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Puff pastry boats with ceps, bacon, and Gruyère AOP Switzerland serves 4
10 minutes + 23 minutes cooking time
• 300 g ceps, trimmed • 1 garlic clove, chopped • 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped • 50 g bacon • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 puff pastry dough • 1 drizzle of chilli olive oil • 40 g Gruyère AOP cheese, grated • salt, pepper
1 Preheat the oven to 180 °C. In a bowl, mix the mushrooms with the garlic, parsley, bacon, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté the mushroom mixture in a frying pan for 3 minutes. Drain and set aside. 2 Place the dough into a boat-shaped dish lined with baking paper. Prick the bottom of the dough with a fork and drizzle with the chilli oil. Add the mushroom mixture and sprinkle with Gruyère AOP. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes. 3 Cut the pastry into slices and serve. Tip: Delicious with a green salad. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 25
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10
SPEEDY SOUPS
Super-quick to prepare, our new favorite belly-warming soups are made using just five basic ingredients, and a pantry staple or two.
Chicken, noodle and sweetcorn soup Great for using up leftover roast chicken. A few sprigs of coriander (if you have any on hand) will boost the flavours. Serves 4 • 1 bunch spring onions, chopped • 500 ml shredded, cooked chicken • 400 g sweetcorn • 400 g coconut milk • 2 packets (60 g) Chinese soup noodles • 1 l chicken stock • 2 tsp (10 ml) sesame oil • 60 ml light soy sauce, • salt and milled pepper, to taste 1 Place all ingredients, except noodles, in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. 2 Break up noodles and add to soup. 3 Simmer until noodles become soft. Adjust seasoning if necessary and serve.
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Roasted tomato, red lentil and cumin soup Serves 4 • 1 large onion, sliced • 750 g (about 7) tomatoes, roughly cut into chunks • 2-3 tsp (10-15ml) ground cumin • 2 red chillies chopped • 320 g red lentils • 4 sliced garlic cloves • olive oil • 1 l vegetable stock • salt and milled pepper
1 Preheat oven to 200ºC. 2 Toss onion, tomatoes, garlic, cumin, and chilli into a roasting pan with a dash of oil and place on a baking tray. Roast for 20 minutes. 3 Tip contents of tray into a large saucepan. Add lentils and stock and simmer until lentils are soft. 4 Blitz soup until smooth. Season and serve. Tipp: Serve topped with sliced chilli and parsley.
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Thai butternut and prawn soup Fragrant and luscious! Serves 4 • 3-4 tbsp (45-60 ml) Tom Yum paste, or to taste • 400 g coconut milk • 500 g butternut chunks, cut slightly smaller • 300 g peeled prawn tails • 15 g fresh coriander, chopped • 4 cm-knob chopped ginger • 2 chopped garlic cloves • 1.25 l chicken stock
1 Dry-fry paste, ginger, and garlic in a large saucepan for a minute or until fragrant. Toss in a little stock and mix well. 2 Add remaining stock, coconut milk, and butternut and simmer until butternut is cooked. 3 Blitz until smooth using a stick blender. 4 Toss in prawns and remove from heat. Stand for 5 minutes (prawns will cook in residual heat). Stir through coriander and serve.
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SUBSCRIBE NOW
AND DON‘T MISS A SINGLE ISSUE!
1 year KACHEN only 35 € incl. shipping
www.kachen.lu Become a member of the KACHEN-Club, with many advantages and surprises, such as exclusive events, promotions, workshops, invitations and discounts from our partners! Becoming a member is very easy: get a KACHEN subscription for 1 year and you’ll be part of it.
Just send us an email with your name and the subscription request (German/French/English) to abo@kachen.lu. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 29
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Miso soup with mushrooms A lovely, light Asian soup. Serves 4 • 60 ml miso paste • 1 bunch spring onions, chopped • 1 packet (about 6) shiitake mushrooms, sliced • 300 g green beans, finely sliced • 40 g baby spinach • 2 tsp (10 ml) sesame oil • 60 ml light soy sauce • 1.5 l vegetable stock 1 Heat a glug of oil in a large saucepan and fry onion and garlic until soft. 2 Toss in cauliflower and stock and cook until soft. 3 Blitz with a stick blender until smooth. 4 Season and stir through 250ml cheese. 5 Top bread slices with remaining cheese and place under a preheated grill until golden and crispy. Top soup with chives and serve with toasts.
Four-Bean and tomato soup A winter mid-week staple that takes minutes to prepare and freezes really well. Serves 4 • 1 onion, chopped • 250 ml chopped celery • 250 ml peeled and sliced carrots • 2 cans (400 g each) four-bean mix, drained and rinsed • 1 can (400 g) chopped tomatoes • olive oil • 250 ml beef stock • salt and milled pepper 1 Heat a glug of oil in a large saucepan and fry onion, celery, and carrot in a large saucepan for 4-5 minutes. 2 Add remaining ingredients and simmer until carrots and celery are soft. 3 Using a stick blender, pulse a few times to reach a chunky consistency.
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THE RECIPE BY KITCHENAID
CARROT & GINGER SOUP 4 servings
10 minutes
• 360 ml vegetable broth • 290 g peeled and roughly chopped carrots • ¼ medium green apple, cored and chopped • 4 g firmly packed coriander leaves • ½ small avocado, peeled and pitted • ½ tbsp finely chopped shallots • ½ tsp minced ginger • 1/2 clove garlic • ¼ tsp Celtic sea salt (or more according to taste) • pinch of ground turmeric • pinch of cayenne pepper • ½ tsp fresh lemon juice (or more according to taste)
1 Place all of the ingredients (except the lemon juice) in the blender jar of the KitchenAid Power Plus Blender. 2 Secure the lid and set the Blender to the Adapti-Blend Soup program. Blend until the machine turns itself off. Alternatively, blend for about 5 minutes, starting on speed 1 and gradually increasing to speed 10. 3 The soup will come out of the blender hot. Stir in the lemon juice and serve immediately.
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Cauliflower and mature cheddar soup with cheesy toasts
A simple classic made even easier. Serves 4 • 1 onion, chopped • 900 g cauliflower • 750 ml grated mature cheddar cheese • 1 baguette, sliced • 60 ml chopped chives • olive oil • 2 chopped garlic cloves • 1.25 l chicken or vegetable stock • salt and milled pepper 1 Heat a glug of oil in a large saucepan and fry onion and garlic until soft. 2 Toss in cauliflower and stock and cook until soft. Blitz with a stick blender until smooth. 3 Season and stir through 250ml cheese. 4 Top bread slices with remaining cheese and place under a preheated grill until golden and crispy. Top soup with chives and serve with toasts.
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Cream of leek and fennel soup with smoked haddock A delicious dinner party starter. Serves 4 • 4 fat leeks, thinly sliced • 2 large fennel bulbs, finely sliced • 500 ml full fat milk • 300 g smoked haddock • 250 ml sour cream • 3 tbsp (45 ml) butter • 1 l clear fish stock • 2 tbsp (30 ml) cornstarch • salt and milled pepper
1 Heat butter in a saucepan and sweat off leeks and fennel. Add milk and bring to the boil. Add fish and cover. 2 Remove from heat and stand for 10 minutes (fish should cook perfectly in residual heat). 3 Remove fish, flake and discard skin and bones. Add stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir through cream and blitz until smooth. 4 Mix cornstarch with a little water, stir into soup and cook until soup thickens slightly. 5 Season and ladle into bowls. Serve topped with haddock.
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SEASONAL RECIPES
Chorizo and chickpea soup with avocado Add some chopped fresh or dried chillies if you want to up the spice quotient. Serves 4 • 3 chorizo sausages, diced • 1 bunch spring onions, chopped • 2 cans (400 g each) chickpeas, drained and rinsed • 1-2 avocados, peeled and diced • 80 ml chopped coriander • 1.25 l chicken stock • 3 tbsp (45 ml) tomato paste • salt and milled pepper
1 Dry fry sausages in a saucepan until they begin to release their oil. 2 Add spring onions and fry for a little longer. Toss in chickpeas, chicken stock, and tomato paste and simmer for 15 minutes. 3 Stir through half the coriander and season. Serve topped with avocado and remaining coriander.
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ADVERTORIAL
Sweet potato soup
with ginger and chia seeds Serves 6
30 minutes
• 800 g sweet potatoes • 1 onion • 2 garlic cloves • 1 tsp grated fresh ginger • 1 l vegetable stock • 10 cl liquid cream • milk • 1 tsp chia seeds • 2 handfuls pumpkin seeds • pickled ginger • salt and pepper 1 Peel and slice the onion. 2 Peel and crush the garlic. 3 Peel the sweet potatoes and cut into 2 cm cubes. 4 Fry the garlic and onion in a frying pan with a little oil. 5 Add the sweet potatoes, season with salt and pepper, then add the grated ginger. 6 Fry for a few minutes, then cover with stock. Bring to the boil and cook for 20 minutes. 7 Pour the mixture into a blender and mix well until smooth. 8 Add the cream. 9 Leave the chia seeds to swell in a little milk and cream. 10 Roast the pumpkin seeds in a pan for 30 seconds. 11 Cut the ginger pickled in vinegar into fine slices (Julienne method). Arrange Pour the soup into a bowl and decorate with a spoonful of chia seeds and roasted pumpkin seeds. Finally, add a few strips of ginger and some parsley.
The Purple Lounge has a new look! New colours, materials, furniture.... Come and discover the new Purple Lounge, with its totally contemporary and elegant ambience. The use of natural and raw materials gives the room a warm and comfortable atmosphere and the decor of with unusual objects and trendy accessories gives it an exciting flair just waiting to be discovered!
New opening hours Sunday to Thursday: open from 12:00 noon to midnight Gastronomy from 12:00 noon to 2:30 pm and from 6:30 to 10:30 pm Friday and Saturday: open from 12:00 noon to 02:00 am and 03:00 am on Saturday Gastronomy from 12:00 noon to 2:30 pm and from 6:30 pm to midnight Information and booking: (+352) 26 678-420 or at www.casino2000.lu
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BOTANIKA
Roasted garlic & leek soup with pan-fried sage leaves
Serves 4 20 minutes, cooking time 35 minutes • 1 large garlic bulb • 4 tbsp calendula oil * (see recipe from Kachen Magazine) or olive oil • 4 large leeks (thickly sliced) • 2 medium sized potatoes (peeled and chopped into chunks) • 1 l of fresh vegetable stock • 2 tsp of lemon juice • 10 fresh sage leaves* • 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary leaves* (finely chopped) • 1 tbsp of sea salt flakes • black pepper
RECIPE KATE GREENWOOD PHOTO ANNE LOMMEL
1 Preheat the oven to 190°C. 2 Paint the sage leaves on both sides with calendula oil* or olive oil in a dry non-stick frying pan until lightly toasted on both sides. Set aside on kitchen paper to cool. 3 Slice the top of
the garlic bulb to just expose the flesh within. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of calendula oil* or olive oil. Season with finely ground pepper. Wrap the garlic bulb loosely in a foil parcel. Roast for 35 minutes. 4 Soften the sliced leeks in 1 tablespoon of calendula oil* or olive oil in a large saucepan over a low heat for 15 mins until translucent (cover for 10 minutes). 5 Add the potatoes and vegetable stock. Bring to the boil for 25 minutes. 5 Check on the roasted garlic and if ready squeeze the garlic flesh into the soup mixture. 7 Blend the soup in the blender until smooth and add 2 tablespoons of lemon juice. 8 Finely chop the rosemary leaves (tear them of the main stalks beforehand) and mix a 2 tablespoons of sea salt into the mixture. 9 Serve the soup with the pan-fried sage leaves and a sprinkling of sea salt and rosemary mixture. Bon Appetit! *All these products will be available from Botanika in the spring. Please check out our website www.botanika.lu for updates.
Kate’s blossoms can be ordered at www.botanika.lu and Anne’s photo art is at www.annelommelphotography.com 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 37
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BISTROT RECIPES
at the Café de Paris
4 people
15 minutes
• 2 ripe avocados • 500 g scampi • ½ l of cocktail sauce • 1 lime, fruit and zest • 1 pink grapefruit, fruit and zest • 1 green salad For the cocktail sauce: • 200 g mayonnaise • 300 g ketchup • a dash of cognac • salt and pepper For the vinaigrette: • 2 cl of sherry vinegar • 6 cl of olive oil • 10 g of mustard • salt and pepper
1 Preheat the oven at 180 °C. 2 Shell the scampi. Add the citrus zest and a little organic olive oil. Let marinate for one night. 3 Cook the scampi briefly over high heat in an ovenproof pan and put them in the oven for 3 minutes at 180°. 4 Prepare the cocktail sauce by mixing the different ingredients and season the salad. 5 Once cold, mix the scampi with the cocktail sauce. 6 Cut the avocados into cubes. 7 Cut the citrus fruits into thin slices. Assembly On a plate, start with a layer of salad seasoned with the vinaigrette. Place the avocados and scampi on the salad. Finish by arranging the citrus fruits for decoration.
PHOTOS ANNE LOMMEL
Avocado, shrimp, and citrus salad
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RECIPES
Duck breast with honey and thyme sauce 4 people
30-40 minutes
• 4 duck breasts trimmed and checked • 500 g of organic honey • 5 cl raspberry vinegar • 4 sprigs fresh thyme • 1 brown stock cube • 6 organic potatoes 1 Preheat the oven at 180 °C. 2 Parry the duck breasts by removing the white part on the flesh and grid them by making small incisions in the skin in a grid-like pattern (without cutting into the flesh). 3 Shortly cook the duck breasts over high heat on both sides starting with the fat side. Season and bake in the oven at 180 °C for 9 minutes. 4 Blanch the potatoes with the skin, cut them in half
and put them in a dish with a little butter and thyme. Bake for about 15 minutes.
For the sauce Melt the brown stock cube in 1/2 l of water. Caramelize the honey, deglaze with the vinegar. Add the brown stock and thyme. Leave and reduce to the desired consistency.
Assembly Cut the duck breast and place it on a plate with the sauce, the oven cooked potatoes and a mix of salad.
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Eco-friendly cattle-breeding in the heart of Luxembourg
*Fleisch aus Naturschutzprojekten Luxemburgs seit 2013
Ganzjährige Freilandhaltung, nur natürliches Futter, keine Pestizide, keine Düngung, Erhalt und Steigerung der Biodiversität. Indem Sie sich für den Kauf von Naturschutz Fleesch entscheiden leisten Sie einen wichtigen Beitrag für den Naturschutz in Luxemburg. www.naturschutzfleesch.lu
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Je nach Verfügbarkeit
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Eating responsibly is possible. Many of us would prefer to eat meat from animals that have been properly cared for from the time of their birth to the moment they are slaughtered, above and beyond basic standards. Our country’s diminutive size demands innovative farming systems that protect our landscape, promote biodiversity, keep animals safe, and allow our farmers to produce high-quality food. The Naturschutzfleesch production system does just that, allowing consumers to enjoy food knowing they’re protecting the environment too. It combines the protection of nature with the production of high quality meat. To do this, they use rustic breeds such as the Aberdeen Angus, originally from Scotland and known for its marbled meat.
Outdoors, all year long The system works by rearing the animals at extremely low density – less than one cow per hectare of grazing land – to give flowers, wildlife, insects and biodiversity in general plenty of room to flourish. The animals live in 100% natural conditions, spending their entire lives outdoors, all year round, walking more than 10 km a day, and feeding exclusively on wild grass. They are raised in good conditions and without artifice. Under the Naturschutzfleesch system, fertilisers, pesticides, and ill- or rough treatment are categorically banned. The system produces meat of the very highest quality: strong muscle growth with a marbled effect, authentic taste and slow growth thanks to the 100% natural feed. The resulting Angus beef combines melt-in-the-mouth texture and intense flavour – perfect for those delicious meals with friends!
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Sustainable, local, natural The eco-friendly Naturschutzfleesch system is supported by the Ministry of the Environment, Climate and Sustainable Development, guaranteeing a sustainable, local production chain that’s kind on the environment – yes, all of that in one label! The animals are born and reared here in Luxembourg and processed by master-butcher La Provençale. The meat is sold in Delhaize stores. As you probably realise, our eating habits have a major impact on sustainability. For instance, did you know that eating a burger is more eco-friendly than tucking into a steak? The so-called «noble» pieces such as steak, bone ribs or entrecote represent only 20% of the animal. Ground meat, hamburgers, sausages or paleron... Luxembourgish tradition requires that less noble parts be exploited. Naturschutzfleesch has understood this well and has made it one of its priorities. By making more environmentally conscious buying decisions, we can all help to combat waste while ensuring no part of the animal goes to waste – and maximising farmers’ earnings in the process. Naturschutzfleesch-certified Luxembourg Angus is sure to be popular with meat lovers everywhere. And at a time when we’re all rethinking our values, it’s our opportunity to do good.
For more information, go to
angus.lu
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Chestnut pralines
+ Chestnut muffins
+
+
RECIPES &PHOTOS MYRIAM VISRAM
Chestnut and chocolate spread
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DO IT YOURSELF
Sweet Autumn
What is more personal than a homemade thank you?
BASIC INGREDIENT
Autumn brings many delicacies with it – including chestnuts. The local chestnut with its nutty taste is particularly suitable as an ingredient in small delicacies – as purée in muffins, pralines or in a creamy, nutty spread. Indeed, roasted with a good glass of ‘Fiederwäissen’ it will delight everyone!
Chestnut purée
• 500 g pre-cooked chestnuts • 300 ml milk • 80 g sugar • 1 packet vanilla sugar For the purée, boil the pre-cooked chestnuts with the milk, sugar, and vanilla sugar for a few minutes, until everything is dissolved and soft. Pour the mixture into a blender and purée until stiff. The purée is easy to freeze if some is left over.
Fast chestnut pralines
Chestnut and chocolate spread
• 150 g chestnut purée • 200 g dark chocolate
• 200 g chestnut purée • 50 g dark chocolate, in pieces
Form the purée into small balls and freeze in the freezer. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate slowly over a water-bath. Roll the frozen balls in the chocolate until they are completely covered and place them carefully with a fork on baking paper. Place the dried pralines in small bags or paper moulds and give them away.
Layer the hot purée alternately with a few pieces of chocolate in glasses – the chocolate melts there and gives a nice pattern. Let it cool down and give it away (or eat it yourself)!
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DO IT YOURSELF
Chestnut muffins Makes about 8 muffins
60 minutes, cooking time 25 minutes
For the muffins: • 100 g soft butter • 100 g sugar • 1 sachet vanilla sugar • 2 eggs • 100 g flour • ½ tsp baking powder • 100 g chestnut purée For the buttercream topping: • 50 g soft butter • 50 g cream cheese (e.g. Philadelphia) • 50 g icing sugar • 50 g chestnut purée First whip the soft butter and sugar until frothy. Add the eggs, flour, baking powder, and chestnut purée. Add 1.5-2 tablespoons to each muffin tin and bake for about 20-25 minutes at 180 °C until golden brown. While the muffins are cooling down, mix the butter with the cream cheese, icing sugar, and chestnut purée to a homogeneous mixture. Spread over the muffins with a piping bag. Decorate as you like and give away!
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Carrot Cake
by Yves Jehanne
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BAKING BASICS
1 cake / about 8 slices
30 minutes
Cake:
For the carrot cake: • 80 g egg white • 55 g egg yolk • 130 g brown sugar • 40 g soft butter • 130 g vegetable oil • 15 g honey • 70 g cashew nuts • 1 tsp of ground cinnamon • 1 tsp gingerbread spices • 2 g fleur de sel • 5 g baking soda (bicarbonate) • 7 g baking powder • 160 g T55 flour • 40 g cornstarch • 35 g Debic Vegetop cream (vegetable cream) or fresh cream (33%) • 235 g grated carrots • ½ scraped vanilla bean • 7 g orange zest • 20 g candied ginger For the orange topping: • 100 g Debic Vegetop cream (vegetable cream) or fresh cream (33%) • 100 g Philadelphia cream • 22 g sugar • ½ vanilla bean • 1 orange
1 Beat the egg whites and yolks into a sabayon, add the brown sugar, then the melted warm butter, vegetable oil, and honey. 2 Add the cashews, liquid cream and candied ginger cut into small cubes, then the fleur de sel. Cut the vanilla pod in half lengthwise, scrape the inside out and incorporate it into the mixture. 3 Add flour, bicarbonate, baking powder, cornstarch, cinnamon powder, and gingerbread spices. 4 Finish by adding the grated carrots and the zest of a grated orange. 5 Pour the mixture into a previously greased and floured cake tin, then leave to rest for an hour in the fridge. 6 Bake in a ventilated oven at 155 degrees for about 1 hour and 15 minutes. 7 Leave to cool completely before decorating the cake and enjoying it. Topping: 1 Mix the cream, Philadelphia and sugar, scrape out the vanilla pod and grind the orange peel into the mixture. 2 Whip everything like a whipped cream and place on the cake in a desired shape.
TIPS & TRICKS
RECIPE YVES JEHANNE PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
by Yves Jehanne For airy, fluffy breads With pastries, like brioche or baba, and with bread you have to let the dough rise.
The solution is super simple: gently warm a jelly or apricot syrup and then brush over the cake evenly - it’s guaranteed to work!
In order for the yeast to develop well in the dough, make sure that the room temperature is between 23 and 26 °C and cover the dough with a damp tea towel as it rises. This prevents crust formation.
A delicious chocolate cream for a successful chocolate cake Your chocolate cake is a treat for the palate but sometimes a little dry? Add a chocolate cream that is very easy to prepare. You will need 100 g Nutella and 100 g mascarpone, which you whip together well (like whipped cream). Then spread the cream onto your cake.
For a fabulously glossy cake Would you like to surprise your guests with a fabulously glossy cake?
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Apple Cider Caramels Freshly pressed, unfermented apple juice, also known as sweet must or apple cider, is the basis for these caramel sweets. For the apple-caramel sweets, 800 ml of sweet must is first reduced to around 100 ml. This thick, syrupy liquid is then heated with sugar, butter, spices, whipped cream, and salt, filled into a mold and left to cool. Then the solid mass is cut into small pieces and sprinkled with coarse salt.
Tip If you don’t have a thermometer, cook the caramel until a tiny spoonful dropped into ice water becomes firm but still able to be plied into a ball. If the caramel doesn’t reach 122 °C, it will stay soft (you can still use it as a spread, yummy!). On the other hand, if you cook the caramel beyond 122 °C, it will get firmer the higher the temperature gets - up to the point where it becomes impossible to cut. See how handy a thermometer is?
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STEP BY STEP
about 100 caramels (depending on size) • 800 ml apple cider (without alcohol) • 1 small cinnamon stick (4 cm or 1/4 tsp ground) • 2 cloves • 1/8 tsp nutmeg • 100 g unsalted butter • 150 g granulated sugar • 1/2 tsp fine salt • 150 g packed light brown sugar • 80 ml heavy cream • flaky sea salt or fleur de sel, for topping (optional) *A lternatively (instead of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg) use ½ tsp of gingerbread spice. Also ⅛ tsp Cayenne pepper works very well.
RECIPE & PHOTOS URSULA SCHERSCH
In addition: • 18 cm diameter pot/saucepan • sugar or deep-fry thermometer (recommended) • 20 x 20 cm baking tin • baking paper 1 Boil the apple cider with the cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg in the saucepan over high heat until it is reduced to a thick syrup, to about 100 ml in volume. Stir occasionally and keep a close eye on it towards the end. It will take around 40 minutes, but cooking time will vary based on size of pan and temperature. 2 Meanwhile, prepare your other ingredients. Line 20 x 20 cm straight-sided square baking tin with 2 sheets of baking paper (leave a few centimeters of paper overlapping the sides like wings). Cut the butter into chunks (2.5 cm cubes are good enough). 3 When the apple cider is reduced, remove it from
the heat and fish out the cinnamon stick and cloves. Slowly stir in the heavy cream until well combined, then stir in the butter, sugars, and salt. 4 Return the pot to medium heat and let it boil, stirring often, until mixture reaches 122 °C on a sugar thermometer. Keep a close eye on it. Once it boils and the liquid bubbles and starts rising, it takes between 3 and 5 minutes on my stove to reach the desired temperature, remove from heat immediately. 5 Stir for 30 seconds to get rid of the bubbles and pour caramel into the prepared baking dish. Allow to rest at room temperature until caramel is set – about 2 hours (or faster in the fridge). 6 Transfer the block to a cutting board, using the baking paper sling (the extra paper at the sides). Oil a knife and cut the caramels into 1.5 cm stripes with a little space between them (they stick together easily). If the caramel sticks to the knife, put the block into the fridge for 10-15 minutes (or pop it into the freezer for 5 minutes). I find the caramel easiest to cut when cold. 7 Cut each stripe into 1.5 to 2.5 cm pieces. Sprinkle with coarse salt if you like and wrap each caramel in wax or baking paper. 8 When stored longer, the salt tends to dissolve. So, if you plan to wrap them, omit the salt. If you don’t want to wrap them individually, you can store them in an airtight container with a slip of wax or baking paper in between. I tend to store the container in the fridge since I like the caramels to be chewy and not too soft. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 49
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MILLY'S FUN FACTS
A FOCUS ON FOOD PRESERVATION What happens when you preserve with salt, sugar, and acid?
Salt
Sugar
Acid
The conservation with salt, one of the oldest techniques in food preserving, entails dehydrating food, such as vegetables, meat, or fish (osmosis). Potentially dangerous microorganisms are dried out and can scarcely survive in these circumstances. The dry salting of meat or fish is called curing. The preserving of vegetables is done, for example, in brine. When the concentration of salt is right, good lactobacilli are able to survive and a lactofermentation occurs. Often, a further thermal treatment is needed in order to preserve the ingredients for a longer period of time.
Like the conservation of food with salt, preserving with sugar also involves the dehydration of potentially harmful microorganisms through a high sugar content. The problem with this particular method is that sugar attracts a lot of water. The more water is present in the mixture, the smaller the concentration of sugar becomes. At a certain level the sugar-mixture is no longer dehydrating, instead it works to increase various microorganisms, such as yeasts. Yeasts then ferment sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide. This kind of fermentation is, in itself, a good method to preserve food, however, it must take place in a controlled environment, as is the case with the production of wine or beer.
Most microorganisms cannot survive in an acid environment. A low pH, which is produced through preserving food in acid conditions, inhibits the growth of harmful microorganisms or destroys them completely. In order to conserve food in this way, one can preserve them in acid conditions or through a lactic acid fermentation. Food preserved in acid conditions are, however, strongly affected in their flavour. That is something that one needs to accept. Indeed, sometimes this is a desirable outcome, for example, with the preservation in vinegar. However, the preserved food can occasionally loose its individual flavour during this process. The additional heating of the ingredients considerably prolongs the storage life.
Tip: You need about 10% salt solution, that is 100 g in 1 litre water, to achieve a preservative effect. Less is needed for fermentation.
Example: As long as honey does not come into contact with moisture, it will not spoil - this is ensured by its high sugar and hydrogen peroxide content.
Tip: A combination of acid, sugar and salt does not only have an effect on the shelf life, but also allows a lot of creativity in the taste composition.
TEXT MYRIAM VISRAM
It used to be necessary to survive. Is it simply the latest thing today? More and more people take the time to preserve food in order to follow the philosophy of eating locally and seasonally all year round and to reduce food waste. But what lies behind these welltried methods? www.milly.at
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ADVERTORIAL
BEER
FRO M P O O R-P EOPL E-DR IN K TO T R E N DS E T T E R
T
he first traces of the fermented drink can be found around 4000 BC. The Egyptians regarded beer as a divine drink and the Gauls ascribed magical powers to it.
The perception of this ancient brew has changed greatly, as has the consumer’s taste. The Luxembourgers are in 11th place in Europe with a per capita consumption of 76 litres and are therefore still a few jugs behind the Czechs, who are in first place with 138 litres per capita. Beer is simply very popular in our regions and even has its own international day of honour on 3 August! Today beer has become a true trendsetter drink; there are numerous events, conferences, animations and salons around the topic. Regional beers are particularly IN; non-industrially produced craft beers are experiencing a real boom. New creations, such as Mellis beer or Bofferding Hop, with notes of citrus and exotic fruits, are particularly popular. The Pall Center lists a total of 470 different types of beer, including beers from 56 microbreweries, including seven from Luxembourg and seventeen from Belgium. The beer of the “Brasserie du bout du monde” from France, for example, is exclusively available at the Pall Center.
A good reason for the Pall Center to dedicate a special event twice a year to the subject of beer. The next “Quinzaine de la Bière” will take place from 6 to 19 November. During the two weekends, you will have the opportunity to meet the local brewers participating in the Épicerie du Pall CENTER and taste the beer on site. Throughout the period there will be a wide selection of local beers and many special offers. You will also find more details in a brochure specially designed for the “Quinzaine de la Bière”.
EVENT
QU IN Z A IN E DE LA BIÈRE From 6 to 19 November In the Épicerie of the PALL CENTER
Shopping Village Pall Center 2, route d’Arlon 8552 Oberpallen www.pallcenter.lu
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Oil
REPORTAGE
Liquid gold
Oils have long played a prominent role in our lives. Whether in the kitchen, in medicine, in art, or in religion – this liquid, which is won through a laborious process, is worth its weight in gold.
Vegetable oils in every day use
Balm for your senses – oils in the kitchen
Vegetable oils are used in many sectors, particularly in the cosmetic industry, in the arts, and even in the production of biofuel. However, they play a particularly important role in our nutrition. These fatty oils are extracted from various oilseeds and are becoming more and more popular. But what distinguishes these different oils and why is fat still such a taboo?
Besides being good for your health, oil can also play an essential role in our culinary culture. Oils (and fats in general) influence the consistency and the flavour of our food. Fat carries flavour since many flavours can only dissolve in fat. In addition, fat transports nutrients.
In 2017/2018 about 195 million tons of vegetable oil was produced worldwide, out of which the infamous palm oil stands unbeaten at first place with 67 million tons. Other popular vegetable oils are soybean oil, rapeseed oil, and sunflower oil. Far behind those main oil seeds you find peanut oil, olive oil, and coconut oil, each with about 3-4 million tons. In the 80s the ‘low fat’ movement gained traction. But are fats really the enemy? Research says no! We need high quality fats in our diet in order to stay healthy. Oils are not only worth their weight in gold for our health, but are also valuable for their medicinal properties. Indeed, the boundaries between food, medicine, and well-being can sometimes be blurred.
Not every oil is suitable for everything – personal taste and physical characteristics play important roles. Cold pressed olive oil has a very high component of healthy unsaturated fatty acids, a distinctive fruity-nutty taste, and is suitable for cold dishes such as salads. One should not heat this oil too much, since it looses a lot of its flavour and its health benefits through the process. Oils with a less distinctive taste are rapeseed oil or sunflower oil. They can be heated up without distorting the flavour of your dishes. Coconut oil is unusual because, in comparison with the other oils, it contains a higher amount of saturated fatty acids. Similarly to animal fats, such as butter or lard, coconut oil is solid at room temperature. Untreated coconut oil retains a light coconut taste and is used primarily in the cosmetic industry. The discussion surrounding the health benefits or, indeed, harmful characteristics of this oil, have lately made it – unjustly – somewhat infamous.
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Palm oil, they say, is the devil of all oils. Unfortunately, it is not the fault of the oil but that of humans. Palm oil, while richer in saturated fatty acids than other oils, is a very healthy oil. However, it is the environment, specifically the rain forests, which pay a terribly high price to produce the large amounts of palm oil that we use.
Oils and their impact on our health and our environment olive oil rapeseed oil
‘The good, the bad and the ugly’ puzzling fatty acids
sunflower oil coconut oil
The famous film title matches the bewildering ideas surrounding fatty acids. How do you decide which fat is healthy and which is not? There are many opinions surrounding unsaturated fatty acids: but what are they exactly? Saturated and unsaturated fatty acids are distinguished through their physical form and by their different reactions in our bodies. We need a good balance of both so that they can unfold their health benefits. Ideally, we should consume a high percentage of polyunsaturated fatty acids and a small amount of saturated fatty acids. Beware of buzzwords: trans-fatty acids, which can be found in margarine or fried food for example, are also unsaturated fatty acids, but very bad for your health. The much discussed omega fatty acids – found in salmon or mackerel – are very valuable, as they are polyunsaturated fatty acids. They are also called ‘essential fatty acids’, as our body cannot produce them by itself and we need to take them up through our food. As a rule, remember: (poly) unsaturated fatty acids are good, saturated fatty acids are not so good and trans-fatty acids are very bad!
n.a.
palm oil
Preserves and Co. – oil in food preservation Oil is not only a desirable ingredient because of its taste and health benefits, but it can also be used in the preservation of food. It protects the (often drier) food from air and moisture and thus stems the growth of potential microorganisms. A useful side effect of using oil in this way is the infusion of the oil with the flavours of the preserved food. This means that the oil can be used as an infused oil as well. An example for this is the preserving of garlic. Garlic is cooked in oil at low temperatures of about 75-80 °C, which infuses the oil with delicate garlic and umami notes. Usually, the infused ingredients are heated once more in oil in order to eliminate harmful microorganisms.
Interesting facts
How do you recognize valuable oil?
Why is margarine bad?
What distinguishes oil from fat?
With all vegetable oils, one should make sure that they are extracted as gently as possible. This means: oil extraction at low temperatures, without solvents and without refining them. This way they keep their subtle and individual flavour and their many valuable and healthy nutrients.
During the manufacture of margarine, the good unsaturated fatty acids of vegetable oil are artificially ‘saturated’. Saturated fatty acids are produced, which are responsible for the solid structure of margarine. If this reaction is not completed, trans-fatty acids are created, which are connected with cardiovascular disease.
Fats and oils are distinguished through their levels of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. You can recognize a high percentage of unsaturated fatty acids – which occur in healthy oils – because they stay a liquid at room temperature. The exception is coconut oil, which, through its high percentage of saturated fatty acids, is also solid at (most) room temperatures – just like butter or lard.
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REPORTAGE
For body and mind – aromatherapy with essential oils Oils find further use for medicinal purposes. Almond oil, for example, is gentle to the skin and is therefore often used in skincare – especially for sensitive skin. You will also find it in the wellness sector, where it is often used as a base oil for a body massage. It offers an intensive treatment for the skin. Essential oils are another type of oil, which are frequently used for medicinal and wellness purposes. These oils are really a combination of volatile organic compounds and are used in aromatherapy for the alleviation of illnesses and to increase well-being. These scents enter our body through various ways – for example through a body massage or via room scents – and thus enfold their very specific effects. For example, the essential oils derived from eucalyptus and menthol can have mucolytic effects and help with catarrhs and bronchitis. The soothing effect of fennel and caraway tea on the stomach and digestion is also said to be on account of the herbs’ essential oils. Beside its pleasant scent, lavender oil is antibacterial, antiviral, and antiinflammatory. In addition, lavender oil is also calming and sleep inducing.
TEXT MYRIAM VISRAM
The world’s most expensive oil Prickly pear seed oil is said to be one of the most precious oils in the world. The strenuous extraction process and the low yield strongly influence the price. You will mostly find the oil in the luxury beauty industry. It can cost up to 600 euros per litre. In order to harvest 1 litre of this oil, you will need almost 1000 kg of fruit. The seeds need to be separated from the flesh, washed, dried, and then cold pressed.
Essential oils are mainly used in the perfume and cosmetic industries. As they evaporate completely they do not leave any stains on clothing in contrast to ‘normal’ oils. The ingredient list on perfumes should indicate all its components. Perfume, for example, contains up to 40 % essential oils, ‘Eau de Parfum’ up to 15 %, ‘Eau de Toilette’ up to 8 %, and ‘Eau de Cologne’ up to 4 %. Oils are traded like a precious treasure and tasted like an expensive wine. They play a role in all situations in life. Conclusion - Oils have become an indispensable part of our everyday lives! Unfortunately, the production of different oils uses many of our resources - we pay not only a high monetary price, but also an ecological one. Therefore, it is always important to pay attention to a sustainable origin. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 55
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Linguine aglio, olio e peperoncino
Serves 4
20 minutes
• 500 g linguine • 6 medium garlic cloves • 100 ml high quality olive oil • 1 chilli pepper 1 Cut the garlic into fine slices and caramelize slowly with the oil over a low flame until soft. The garlic loses its heat and the oil becomes pleasantly aromatic. 2 Cut the chilli pepper into fine slices and add to the oil. 3 Cook the linguine until al dente, mix everything with the oil, garlic, and chilli. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve immediately.
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RECIPES
Celery soup with walnut oil Serves 4
40 minutes
RECIPES & PHOTOS MYRIAM VISRAM
• 2 tbsp butter • 1 onion • ½ celery • 4-5 floury boiling potatoes • 1 leek stick, finely sliced • 500 ml vegetable stock • cream to taste • 2-3 slices brown bread • aioli (mayonnaise refined with garlic) • walnut oil (e.g. Luxembourgish walnut oil by André Zewen)
1 Steam the onion over a low heat in the butter until soft. Sauté the finely chopped celery, diced potatoes, and leek over medium heat. Add the vegetable stock and simmer until everything is soft. 2 Purée with a hand blender and season with salt, pepper, and cream. Arrange the soup in a bowl and add a dash of walnut oil. 3 If you like, you can serve it with brown bread chips and aioli. Refine the mayonnaise with garlic and leave to stand for a while. Cut the brown bread into thin slices and dry in the oven at 80 °C until crispy.
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RECIPES
Parfait with pumpkin seed oil and pumpkin seed brittle Serves 6
30 minutes + freezing time
For the pumpkin seed brittle: • 100 g pumpkin seeds • 100 g sugar For the parfait: • 3 egg yolks • 50 g sugar • 1 tbsp vanilla extract • 5 tbsp pumpkin seed oil • 350 ml cream 1 To make the pumpkin seed brittle, put the pumpkin seeds with the sugar in a pan and caramelize over high heat. Spread the seeds on baking paper and let cool. 2 Beat the egg yolk with the icing sugar and vanilla over a water bath until frothy and until a thick cream is formed. Remove the cream from the water bath and continue beating for a few minutes until it has cooled down. 3 Add the pumpkin seed oil to the cream. 4 Pour the parfait into a box form or spread over individual cups and freeze. Before serving, garnish with pumpkin seed brittle and a few drops of pumpkin seed oil.
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BETTER BREAD THANKS TO STEAM? NOTHING IS EASIER WITH THE AEG STEAMPRO OVEN. REGULAR OVEN
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AEG STEAMPRO OVEN
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5 facts about pears
Has everything gone pear-shaped? As if!
1 2
Practical Neighbours
Like apples, pears produce a lot of ethane, which means they ripen fast. If you have avocados or kiwis at home that are not quite ripe, put them next to your pears and they will ripen faster too.
Easy on your baby’s stomach
Pears contain far less fruit acid than apples but just as much sugar. They are therefore especially sweet and very easy on sensitive stomachs, which means that babies can eat them too. They are also the ideal snack if you’re trying to loose weight because they have a high content of dietary fibres, which means they fill you up quickly and promote digestion. Cooked pears are the ideal light diet.
3
Fridge or room temperature?
It’s better to buy pears when they are not too ripe. They should give only a little when pressed with a finger and they should not be too light in colour. If you don’t want to eat them straight away put them in the fridge and take them out 1-2 days before you plan to consume them so that they can ripen.
4
Pears make you happy
5
Going pear-shaped
It’s a feast for the eyes to see the pompous pear in all its glory, with its beautiful curves and smooth skin. (Ripen under plastic for best results.) Perhaps we need to rethink the idiom: it’s all gone pear-shaped!
TEXT MARTINA SCHMITT-JAMEK
Pears contain folic acid, which is necessary for the production of serotonin, the happiness hormone. The high iron content of pears guards against anaemia. Pears are also high in vitamins and minerals, such as phosphor, which is good for your nerves. They also contain potassium, which is draining and helps to secret heavy metals and toxins that can be tied to the fruit.
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SEASONAL FRUIT
Caramelized poached pears in a pan (vegan) Serves 4
20 minutes, 10 minutes of which is cooking time
• 4 pears • 50 g sugar • 2 vanilla beans • ½ organic lemon, rind and juice • 75 ml white port wine • 100 ml white wine • 200 ml pear juice • 1 pinch of ground cinnamon 1 Wash and peel the pears and remove the core with a ball cutter. 2 Caramelize the sugar with 2 tablespoons of water in a pan or pot. Halve the vanilla beans lengthwise, but do not cut them completely. Scratch out the pulp and add to the caramel with the pods. 3 Using a peeler, cut some of the peel from the lemon, add the peel and the squeezed juice and immediately deglaze with port wine, white wine, and the pear juice. Reduce the heat, cover the pears with the cut surface downwards and simmer for about 5 minutes at low heat in the sugar stock. Then remove the lid, turn the pears over and simmer for another 5 minutes. 4 Remove the pears, place them on a plate and bring the broth to the boil again until it thickens slightly. Add to the pears and let cool. Sprinkle with some cinnamon.
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Oat porridge with caramel pears, pecan nuts, and vanilla yoghurt Serves 4 35 minutes, including 15 minutes cooking time • 250 g oat flakes • 1 pinch salt • 200 ml cream • 4 pears • 4 tbsp butter • 75 g sugar • 150 g pecans nuts • 250 g Greek yoghurt • 1 vanilla pod, pulp • 4 tbsp maple syrup • ground cinnamon, as desired 1 Boil the oat flakes with 1 l water in a pot, add a pinch of salt and cook for about 10 15 minutes until the mixture thickens and becomes creamy. Then pour in the cream and simmer for another 5 minutes. Stir again and again. 2 Wash the pears, quarter them and remove the core as desired. Melt the butter in a coated pan, sprinkle in 50 g sugar and caramelize the pears. Add the nuts and caramelize briefly. Put aside. 3 Stir the yoghurt with the remaining sugar and the vanilla pulp until creamy. Divide the oat porridge into four bowls, add the pears and nuts and add a dash of yoghurt. Sprinkle with ground cinnamon and a splash of maple syrup as desired and serve.
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SEASONAL FRUIT
Autumn salad with pear and walnuts (vegetarian)
Serves 4
20 minutes
For the dressing • 2 tsp Dijon mustard • 1 tsp honey • 3 tbsp white wine vinegar • 1 tbsp orange juice • 100 ml olive oil • 3 tbsp cream • salt and pepper from the mill • 1 pinch cayenne pepper For the salad • 4 handfuls of autumnal salad leaves, e.g. kale, mizuna, wild rocket, endive, baby leaf mixture • 2 pears • 80 g chopped walnuts, roasted
1 For the dressing, combine all the ingredients in a tall mixing bowl and purée to make a creamy dressing. If necessary, add a little water. Season the dressing with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. 2 For the salad, select the salad leaves, wash and spin dry. Arrange the salad high in the centre of plates. 3 Wash and quarter the pears, remove the core and cut the quarters into fine slices. Put them on edge and in a star shape around the salad. Spread the chopped walnuts on top, drizzle the dressing over everything and serve the salads.
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Spelt noodles with balsamic pears, gorgonzola, walnuts, and cashew nuts (vegetarian)
Serves 4
35 minutes, 15 minutes of which is cooking time
• 400 g spelt ribbon noodles • salt • 2 shallots • 2 pears • 80 g walnut kernels • 60 g cashew kernels • 3 tbsp olive oil • ½ tsp sugar • 100 ml white balsamic vinegar • 75 ml vegetable stock • 150 ml cream • 150 g gorgonzola • pepper from the mill • 1 dash of lemon juice 1 Cook the noodles in boiling salted water according to the instructions on the packet, and drain. 2 Peel the shallots and dice finely. 3 Wash and halve the pears, remove the core and cut
the pear halves into thin slices. Fry the walnuts and cashew nuts in a pan, remove and set aside. 4 Heat the olive oil in a pan. Add the shallots and pears and sprinkle with sugar. Caramelize and deglaze with balsamic vinegar. Let it boil almost completely and add the vegetable stock and the cream. Simmer for 5 minutes. 5 Cut the gorgonzola into small pieces, add and season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Add the noodles and the nuts and toss briefly, arrange the noodles in deep plates and serve.
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SEASONAL FRUIT
Discover MARCELLO Italian homemade ice cream made in the heart of the city & withLuxembourgish dairy products !
More info www.marcello.lu marcello@goeres-group.com
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SEASONAL FRUIT
Pancakes with quark, pears, and icing sugar Serves 4
5 minutes, of which approx. 15 minutes 4 cooking time
For the pancakes: • 4 eggs • 200 g quark (curd cheese) • ½ tsp baking powder • ½ tsp organic lemon zest • 1 pinch salt • 2 tbsp birch sugar, plus extra for sprinkling • 150 g almond flour • some milk (if needed) • coconut oil, for baking For the compote: • 3 firm pears • 2 tbsp butter • juice from ½ lemon • 50 ml apple juice • ½ vanilla pod • 2 tbsp birch sugar
1 Whisk the eggs with the quark and smooth with the baking powder, grated lemon, salt, birch sugar, and the flour until a thick dough is obtained. If the dough is too thick, add some milk. 2 Fry one pancake after the other in a pan with a little oil until golden brown. Keep already baked pancakes warm in the oven at 60 °C top and bottom heat. 3 Wash, quarter and core the pears and cut them into thin slices. Fry in hot butter in a frying pan. Deglaze with lemon and apple juice, then add vanilla and sugar. Bring to the boil once and remove from the heat. 4 Arrange the pancakes on plates and serve sprinkled with the pear slices and powdered birch sugar.
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NATURALLY DIFFERENT
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O b e r p a l l e n | S te i n s e l | S t ra ss e n pallcenter.lu KACHEN 03-19 ENGLISH.indb 67
facebook.com/pallcenter
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5 Facts about…
Beets
1
Small in size but large in strength
Full of vitamins, iron, and antioxidants, with the highest sugar content of all vegetables and nevertheless low on calories, the roots, which are free of cholesterol, are a real power food. By increasing the uptake of oxygen beetroot juice helps athletes with their endurance. The juice’s high potassium content can help combat cardiovascular disease.
2 3 4
Beauty all-rounder
The roots can also impact our appearance: beets can strengthen and improve skin, hair, and nails. Beets were said to be an aphrodisiac as far back as Roman times, for their high boron content directly impacts the production of the human sex hormone.
Hangover cure
If you are feeling somewhat under the weather after a merry evening, juice 1 kg beets (washed, roughly diced) with 1 kg frozen raspberries and stir in a pinch of salt and 4 tbsp apple syrup. They will work wonders and banish any hangover.
Good for digestion, sleep, and memory
Beets protect the liver and gut by aiding the break down of fats and the secretion of toxins. One portion of beetroot juice a day – especially in combination with physical activity – is a real fountain of youth for your brain.
Preservatives, such as nitrates found in meat, stimulate cell mutations. According to studies, beet juice inhibits this process, slows down development of tumours and guards against cancer. And the roots can do even more: they strengthen the immune system, stimulate the activities of white blood cells and reduce macular degeneration. However, if you have trouble with your kidney or gall bladder, you need to be careful with beets.
TEXT MARTINA SCHMITT-JAMEK
5
Cancer prevention and much more
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SEASONAL VEGETABLES
Red beetroot and raspberry smoothies (vegetarian) Serves 4
15 minutes
• 3 - 4 small beetroots • 350 g raspberries • 1 ripe banana • 1 tsp grated ginger • juice of 2 oranges, freshly squeezed • 3 - 4 tbsp honey, or according to taste • 1 pomegranate, juice • ½ handful of raspberries, to garnish • mint leaves, to garnish
1 Wash and peel the beetroot, cut into pieces and put into the mixing bowl. Sort the berries, rinse, drain and add. Peel the banana, cut into pieces and add with the ginger and orange juice. 2 Mix well, sweeten with the honey and stir in the pomegranate juice. 3 Flavour the smoothie, dilute with a little water or mineral water if desired, pour into glasses and serve garnished with raspberries and mint leaves.
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Cold beetroot soup (vegetarian)
Serves 4 15 minutes cooking time: 30 minutes plus 2 hours cooling time • 500 g beetroot • approx. 800 ml vegetable broth • 2 - 3 tbsp cider vinegar • salt • cumin, ground • caraway seeds • pepper, from the mill • 100 g sour cream • 1 - 2 tsp chia seeds • beetroot leaves 1 Wash, peel, and chop 1 beetroot. Cook in the hot vegetable stock with the vinegar for about 30 minutes at low heat. Then take out 4 - 5 tablespoons from the beetroot cubes and set aside. 2 Purée the rest of the soup finely and season with salt, cumin and pepper. Add the beetroot cubes again and allow the soup to cool for approximately 30 minutes, then allow to cool completely in the refrigerator for around 1.5 hours. 3 Before serving, season the beetroot soup to taste and pour into cups. Stir the sour cream until smooth. Stir 1 tablespoon each into the soup, sprinkle lightly with chia seeds and serve garnished with beetroot leaves. Goes well with toast bread. Serve the remaining sour cream separately.
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SEASONAL VEGETABLES
Beetroot hummus with grilled bread (vegan) Serves 4
20 minutes plus 5 minutes cooking time
• 3 beetroots, cooked • 400 g chick peas (tin) • 2 garlic cloves • salt • 2 tbsp tahini • 1 - 2 tbsp lemon juice • 1 tsp ground cumin • 4 - 5 tbsp olive oil • pepper, from the mill • beetroot leaves or spinach leaves, for garnishing • Crema di Balsamico • 1 tbsp roasted pine nuts • ½ white bread, e.g. baguette 1 Drain the beetroot and chop coarsely. Drain the chickpeas into a sieve, collecting 2 tablespoons of chickpea water. Rinse the chickpeas with cold water and let them drip off,
then purée finely together with the chickpea water and the beetroot cubes. 2 Peel the garlic cloves, chop and finely grate them with a little salt. Add to the chickpeas and mix everything with the tahini, lemon juice, cumin, and olive oil to make a cream. Season the hummus with salt and pepper and pour into a bowl. 3 Rinse off 3 beetroot leaves or spinach leaves, shake dry and garnish the hummus with it and drizzle with Crema di Balsamico. 4 Cut the bread into slices and roast briefly from both sides in the grill pan or on the grill. Sprinkle the hummus with roasted pine nuts and serve with the toasted bread.
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Beetroot pie with raspberries (vegetarian) For 1 tart form, approx. 22 cm Ø 50 minutes plus 30 minutes cooling time and 50 minutes cooking and baking time For the dough: • approx. 150 g flour • 1 egg • 1 pinch salt • 75 g butter • flour, for kneading • butter and flour, for the dish • dried legumes, for blind baking For the topping: • 400 g beetroot, cooked • 1 red onion • 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 1 tsp brown sugar • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar • salt • pepper, from the mill • 100 g goat cheese roll • 300 ml cream • 3 eggs • ½ handful of herbs: parsley, dill • 1 handful baby spinach • 1 handful raspberries • 1 - 2 tbsp pine nuts • 1 tbsp dill tips, for sprinkling 1 For the dough, knead the flour with the egg, salt, and butter (cut into pieces) to a smooth dough. If necessary, add a little cold water or flour. Wrap the dough in cling film and refrigerate for about 30 minutes. 2 Preheat the oven to 200 °C top and bottom heat. Grease a tart tin with butter and sprinkle with flour. Roll out the dough to a thickness of approx. 3 - 4 mm and line the tart mould
with it, also forming an edge. Prick the base several times with a fork, line with baking paper and cover with the pulses. Bake in the oven for approx. 15 minutes. Take it out of the oven and remove the paper and the pulses. Reduce the oven temperature to 180 °C. 3 Cut the beetroot into slices. Peel the onion and chop finely. Lightly sauté in oil in a hot pan. Add the sugar and the balsamic vinegar, swivel underneath and caramelize lightly. Add the beetroot slices, season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat. 4 Cut the cheese into thin slices. Whisk the cream with the eggs and season with salt and pepper. Rinse the herbs, shake dry, chop the leaves coarsely and stir into the egg mixture. Spread the goat cheese slices, half of the beetroot slices, and the onion mixture evenly on the tart base. Sort the spinach, wash and pat dry. Put 2 - 3 leaves aside, spread the remaining leaves loosely on the tart. Pour the glaze over everything. Spread the remaining beetroot slices and the raspberries on top. 5 Sprinkle everything with pine nuts and bake in the oven for 35 - 40 minutes until golden brown. Remove from oven, let cool and serve garnished with dill tips and the remaining spinach leaves.
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SEASONAL VEGETABLES
Beetroot cake with walnuts (vegetarian) 1 box form; approx. 25 cm Ø 30 minutes plus 1 hour baking time • Butter, for the dish • 200 g beetroot, cooked • 200 g butter • 200 g sugar • 2 tbsp vanilla sugar • 1 pinch salt • 5 eggs (M) • 200 g flour • 2 tsp baking powder • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • 1 dash ground mace • 1 dash ground cloves • 80 g ground walnuts • 200 g walnut kernels, chopped • 70 g chocolate drops • milk, if required • very finely chopped mint • icing sugar, for sprinkling 1 Preheat the oven to 180 °C top and bottom heat. Grease a box dish lightly with butter and line with baking paper, overlapping the edges slightly. 2 Finely dice the beetroot. 3 Mix the soft butter with the sugar, vanilla sugar, and salt until creamy. Gradually stir in the eggs one by one. Mix the
flour with the baking powder and the spices and fold in with the ground walnuts. Add the beetroot cubes, half of the chopped walnuts, and the chocolate drops. Stir everything briefly and add some milk if necessary. 4 Pour the mixture into the tin and bake in the oven for about 30 minutes. 5 Take out, sprinkle the remaining walnut kernels in stripes lengthwise down the middle and bake the cake ready in 20 30 minutes (sample with chopsticks). 6 Take it out, cover the cake briefly with aluminium foil and let it cool down a little in the tin, then lift it out of the tin together with the paper and let it cool down on a cake rack. Place on a plate, sprinkle the cake with a little of the finely chopped mint, dust lightly with icing sugar and serve.
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This autumn I would like to make you dream, take you away from everyday life, immerse you in the infinite poetry of our environment... See the trees that are dipped in gold and red this season. Notice the little things, full of charm and poetry that show us how much Mother Nature still has to offer us. I have captured these weightless moments, I am amazed at these miracles, and I see in them the sign that ... when we marvel ... when we tolerate each other, we can still get along wonderfully with Mother Nature. Indeed, this wonderful season brings us many tasty, visual, and fragrant pleasures. I would like to share these little impressions with you, these little things that can induce you to dream. Perhaps also surprise you ...
René Mathieu
RECIPES RENE MATHIEU PHOTOS ANNE LOMMEL
THE HARVEST
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RECIPE BY RENÉ MATHIEU
BAKED TURNIPS IN SALT CRUST Fresh ripe hazelnuts
Serves 6 • 1 raw beetroot • 1 raw yellow beet • 1 raw Chioggia beet • 1 raw white beet • 2 kg grey Guérande salt For the blackberry vinaigrette • 50 ml hazelnut oil • 1 bunch fresh herbs (chives, thyme, rosemary) • a handful of edible wildflowers • blackberry vinegar • lemon olive oil • 1 beautiful bouquet of basil • 1 lemon • 24 fresh hazelnuts • 200 g beautiful blackberries (keep 24 berries for decoration) 1 Select beautiful beets of the same size (approx. 250 g). Gently clean with a soft brush under a gentle jet of water to remove any remaining dirt. 2 Form a very thick grey salt base on the baking tray so that the beets sit nicely and then cover them with coarse grey salt. The beets must be completely covered, so don‘t hesitate to be generous with the salt cover. 3 Bake in the preheated oven at 160 °C (th.5) for 2 hours. Then let them cool in their salt crust for 1 to 2 hours.
Blackberry vinaigrette 1 Heat the hazelnut oil to 60 °C and remove from the heat. Add fresh herbs from the garden and fresh blackberries. 2 Allow to steep for 30 minutes, pass through a sieve and press well to extract the aromas of the herbs and the juice of the blackberries. 3 Add 3 tablespoons of blackberry or balsamic vinegar and set aside. Arrange 1 Break open the salt crust, extract the beets without tearing them and cut lengthwise into strips of equal size. 2 Put a dash of lemon-olive oil on a warmed plate and place the beet strips on top. 3 Garnish with a few lemon basil leaves and edible flowers and season with pepper from the pepper mill. Drizzle the blackberry vinaigrette over the turnips. 4 Sprinkle with fresh hazelnuts and crushed blackberries. (Place the latter in the freezer and crush them while they are still frozen to prevent the grains from bursting). 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 75
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RAVE PARTY
Lactofermented juice Serves 6 For the celery ravioli • 1 celery root with its leaves • 200 g sorrel • 100 g butter For the celery juice • celery stalks and shells • 50 g butter • 200 ml cream • 50 g candied lemon in brine • 500 ml sauerkraut juice (from the organic shop) • 200 ml sunflower oil • turmeric For the celery cream • celery fibre (residues from centrifugation) • 1 candied lemon • 50 g butter • 300 ml cream • 300 ml milk • 3 tbsp hazelnut oil To serve • 1 pear • 1 lemon • 24 white nutmeg grapes • 24 red sorrel leaves Ravioli 1 Cut off the celery leaves and keep aside for the celery juice. 2 Wash and peel 2 celeriac, then cut into thin slices of 2mm with a mandolin (keep the shells). 3 Use a round cutter of about 5cm diameter to cut out 32 nice discs. 4 Put the leftovers to the side. In a large saucepan, add some salted butter and a glass of water and add the slices. 5 Cover with a greased paper the size of the pan, steam for 5-6 minutes,
then remove and place on a baking tray. 6 In the same pan, fry the sorrel quickly until it collapses. Spread the sorrel on the celery slices. Add a spoonful of celery cream and fold the slices into a raviole. Keep in a cool place Celery juice 1 Centrifuge and pick up the celery shells and stems. Save the fibre for juice extraction for the celery cream. 2 Add cream and sauerkraut juice to the celery juice and reduce together. Mix with the candied lemon, butter, and a pinch of turmeric. 3 Add 200 ml sunflower oil for preparation and emulsify using a hand blender. Just before serving, add to the celery cream and drip onto the ravioli. Celery Cream Put all the celery fibres and the candied lemon in a saucepan. Add milk and cream and cook for 20 minutes, then finely mix with butter and hazelnut oil. Arrange 1 Heat the celery oyster ravioli in a little butter shortly before serving. 2 Place 6 ravioli and a few spoonfuls of celery cream on a large serving plate. Decorate with the grapes, a few sorrel leaves, and a raw pear julienne seasoned with lemon juice. If the juice is served separately this is a dish with zero waste.
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RECIPE BY RENÉ MATHIEU
CAULIFLOWER RISOTTO
Caviar tomatoes from last summer / Muscat soufflé Serves 6 • 150 g white cauliflower • 100 g purple cauliflower • 100 g yellow cauliflower • 100 g parmesan cheese • 40 red cherry tomatoes in oil brine • 40 pickled yellow cherry tomatoes (in oil brine) • 24 small basil leaves • 30 g broccoli • 1 bowl red sorrel • 1 lime • 20 ml olive oil • 300 ml vegetable cream • 2 tbsp corn starch • 50 g butter • some edible flowers For the Fleurissotto 1 Place the cauliflower heads in a blender to obtain a granulated effect. Put 3 spoonfuls of each cauliflower aside for decoration. 2 Reduce the vegetable cream with parmesan cheese and corn starch. 3 Add the butter and cauliflower grains to this mixture and cook for 5 minutes, keeping the cauliflower seeds crisp. Season to taste. Arrange Place the risotto in a shallow bowl. Then pour the cherry tomatoes over the risotto and garnish with the raw cauliflower grains. Decorate with grated broccoli heads and lime, basil and a few flowers. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 77
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WHITE ROOTS SPAGHETTI
Candied lemon/ truffles/ smoked vegetable juice Serves 6 • 4 nice salsifies • 1 small celery root • 1 kohlrabi • 1 parsnip • 10 g truffles • 1 bunch chives, chopped • 30 g grated parmesan cheese • 20 g smoked oil • 50 g butter For the sauce • 10 g candied lemon • 200 ml vegetable cream • vegetable scraps • 20 g butter 1 Peel and cut the roots into thin strips (about the size of spaghetti) using a mandolin, reserving the scraps for the sauce. 2 Steam the spaghetti al dente for about 10 minutes. 3 Put the spaghetti in a pot, add the butter, chopped truffles (keep a few slices for decoration), mix. 4 At the last minute, add the chopped chives and parmesan cheese. Sauce Centrifuge the vegetable scraps to make a juice (about 150 ml). Add to the cream and bring to a boil, then pour into a blender with the lemon and add the smoked oil. Arrange Arrange the spaghetti in a shallow dish. Spoon 2 tablespoons of sauce over it. Decorate with a few herbs and flowers and finely grated truffles.
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RECIPE BY RENÉ MATHIEU
THE PUMPKIN IS FLIRTING WITH THE TATIN Spicy squash seed ice cream/spicy caramel
Serves 6 • 400 g pumpkin • 1 roll of puff pastry • 100 g sugar • 60 g sweet butter • ½ l vanilla ice cream • 50 g pumpkin seeds • 3 tbsp pumpkin oil • 200 ml clementine juice • 1 tbsp rum 1 Preheat the oven to 180 °C (th. 6). Peel the pumpkin and cut it into 3cm thick slices. Using a cookie cutter, cut discs the diameter of your 6 tart pans. Keep a few thin slices of pumpkin for decoration. 2 In a frying pan, heat the sugar and let it melt so that it turns into caramel. When it is brown and homogeneous, take it off the heat and add the butter. 3 Then return the pan to the stove and add the pumpkin discs. Wait until the caramel becomes liquid again, add the clementine juice and let everything caramelize. 4 Place the pumpkin discs into the bottom of your baking pans. Add vanilla and rum and mix with a wooden spoon. Add a spoonful of caramel to your discs and reserve the rest for decoration. 5 Cut 6 rounds of puff pastry the size of your baking pans and then cover your pumpkin discs with the pastry by folding the edges inside the baking pans. Put in the oven for 20 minutes. Assemble 1 Caramelize the squash seeds in a little dry sugar, let cool. Save some for decoration. 2 Add the pumpkin seeds and pumpkin oil to the vanilla ice cream, mix well. Keep in the freezer until it is time to serve the pies. 3 Turn the tatin pies out onto small plates. Decorate with thin slices of raw pumpkin. Spoon some caramel over them and serve with a nice ice quenelle sprinkled with caramelized squash seeds.
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A NEW WAY TO PROMOTE THE ART OF COOKING This new association was born from the crazy wish to think differently, to promote the gastronomy Luxembourg’s in new ways and to do so on their own terms.
From left to right, first row: Stéphanie Jauquet, Yan Castano, Frank Steffen, Mickaël Williquet, Cathy Goedert et René Mathieu. Second row: Cyril Molard, Rachel Rameau, Paul Fourier, Arnaud Magnier, Ilario Mosconi.
On the back of this wish, 11 experts from the gastronomic industry have come together to form a dedicated and passionate collective. The deliberately heterogeneous group is made up out of 7 renowned chefs ((Yan Castano, Paul Fourier, Arnaud Magnier, René Mathieu, Cyril Molard, Ilario Mosconi and Rachel Rameau), a butcher (Frank Steffen), a patisserie chef (Cathy Goedert), a restaurant manager (Stéphanie Jauquet), and a head of commercial food production and food photography (Mickaël Williquet). Everybody agrees that Food-a-Mental distinguishes itself from Euro-Toques, and Arnaud Magnier formulates it well: ‘First and foremost we do not rely on a European organisation led by people that we do not know. With Food-a-Mental we wanted to create a small and especially a very diverse management structure that is not only reserved for chefs. That is the big difference.’
Strong engagements Das The nature of this organisation is not to be an elite club to promote professionals but to defend their values. These can be grouped into three main principles. As René Mathieu says clearly: ‘We want to think about food through the following principles: ‘respect, inspiration, and naturalness.’ Yan Castagno adds: ‘These three obligations are inseparably bound up with each other; they all build the ground work of this connection, everyone of them will facilitate our growth and they will help to transmit the reasons for the existence of our group.’ The first principle is respect: ‘Respect for the products, producers, environment, clients, colleagues; that is a principle that has defined my schooling and that is transmitted, also to the outside, through
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PASSIONS
our job,’ explains Stéphanie Jauquet. For the members of the group this is mirrored in the esteem for and the upgrading of a ‘beautiful’ restaurant that combines mind and craft: respect for seasonal produce, the producers, and the team. But also the respect between colleagues, respect for the group and, last but not least, respect for all human beings, whether professional or not, who share the vision of the group. A further value of the group is naturalness. This means an ecological awareness, which is directly connected to gastronomy with an emphasis on ‘terroir’ and the seasonality of produce. Especially the concept of ‘terroir’ is an issue that lies close to their heart. Ask whether he believes that Food-a-Mental can help to promote local produce, Paul Fourier says clearly: ‘In order to promote local produce, you only have to use and encourage local produce. We will be messengers for that. It is on us to suggest that in our menus. We have a lot of products here in Luxembourg that deserve to be known. In addition, it is good for the circular economy. However, we know, of course, that 100 % local is never possible. But if already 30 % of produce can be local, that is already a step in the right direction!’ Foodamental wants to be a source of inspiration for the entire industry: through the sharing of valuable experiences, whether at events or through the accompanying of projects. ‘We want to share the philosophy of our art of cooking in order to move the top gastronomy forward here in Luxembourg,’ says Cyril Molard. That was also the reason for Cathy Goedert to join: ‘We are among people who love our profession and that’s amazing. I think that if we bring all of our ideas together, we can create a new dynamic in the gastronomy of Luxembourg.’ This dynamic is the reason Stéphanie Jauquet decided to join. When asked what she thinks of the fact that Food-a-Mental not only includes cooks but also business people of the industry, her answer is enthusiastic: ‘That’s exactly what moved me to join. That means our abilities are extended and the messengers of the group can support each other. We can exchange more experiences and can be complementary. I was responsible for the running of a dining room before I became a business woman!’
TEXT PATRICIA SCIOTTI PHOTOS MICKAËL WILLIQUET
A collective for all This autumn a membership system will be introduced so that Food-a-Mental can survive financially while remaining independent. Experts, but also individuals, can take part, which means they gain access to, among other things, FoodamenTables, a different kind of discussion round… The topics that the chefs highlight at those discussions are manifold… Yann Castano would like to point out that ‘the new consumer habits in the industry and the number of people who eat a meal outside of their homes, is rising year to year.’ Studies have shown that it is not necessarily the traditional restaurant that profits from this, but fast food and street food places. Arnaud Magnier wants engagement: ‘It is very important to me that we can meet influential people on a governmental level, so that we can discuss different issues with them that I and we feel are very important, and that we – “those men and women who are on the ground from morning until night” –get heard. Cathy Goedert already offers a round table on the topic “gluten free and vegan pastries”, held with a nutrition expert and possibly a physical trainer, in order to explain this aspect of healthy eating and to show what the body really needs in order to function properly.’ In short, a cooperation full of passion and engagement, just like their founding members! Paul Fourier sums up the wishes of the group: ‘I expect from Food-a-Mental, first and foremost, contact between chefs, an exchange between all of us, the discovery of different techniques and the sharing of knowledge. We want to try to encourage young people to take up this job and also give non-professionals a look into the real everyday life of our profession.’ 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 81
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A SUCC E SS STO RY:
Middle East meets Luxembourg
Chadi’s Falafel Pop-up Chadi Bekdach, originally from Syria, has long cooked his way into the hearts of the Luxembourgers. As the name of his place reveals, falafel stand at the centre of his menu. Hummus, fatteh and many other Middle Eastern specialities show the range of this cuisine.
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PASSIONS
TEXT BARBARA FISCHER-FÜRWENTSCHES PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
From artist to chef Everything started in Hariko, an artist project that is also active in refugee relief, under the management of Marianne Donven. ‘On my long way though Europe I finally landed in Luxembourg and my stomach said immediately: this is where you belong,’ Chadi remembers. As an artist he built furniture from old pallets in Hariko. ‘Here I was able to forget the atmosphere of the camps and felt right at home.’ At the same time he experimented with his love for cooking, at first only for himself and his artist colleagues. However, the delicious scent of his cooking attracted more and more people who wanted to try his dishes, until the idea to open a small restaurant was born. That he was able to realize his dream is also thanks to Marianne Donven and Pit Pirrotte, a Luxembourgish estate agent. The latter knew of a building in Hollerich – the birthplace and residence of his ancestors – that stood empty until permission for a large building project came through. With little financial investment and the participation of all involved, they were able to convert the empty rooms into a pop-up restaurant called Chiche. The costume designer Isabelle Dickes was responsible for the interior decorating. This mix of vintage and old rooms gives the impression that the building has had a colourful past and gives Chiche a special charm. Chadi is not a trained chef but he has years of experience in gastronomy from his previous life in Syria and Lebanon. ‘Sometimes you discover yourself and your real talents later in life,’ Chadi laughs. ‘And what you do with love and passion and from the bottom of your heart, that makes other people happy too.’ The main ingredients in his kitchen are chickpeas, a lot of vegetables, Arabic spices – and of course love and passion. Thinking of his responsibility for his around 30 members of staff, he will now work towards an official license and go back to school: ‘We are a family, we have to protect each other.’ 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 83
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PASSIONS
Social, sustainable, and still profitable
New rooms, new challenges, a tried and tested concept
Chiche is not your usual refugee programme,’ Marianne explains, ‘We look for people who cannot get a foot in the door of the normal job market, whether it’s because of a lack of schooling, language skills, or anything else, and we give them a chance.’ Nationality plays only a secondary role. That means that the team at Chiche today is made up of around twenty nationalities. ‘We are one big family and for many more than that,’ says Marianne. ‘A stable life with work is extremely important for people who come here without a means of existence. For us their motivation is more important than any qualification and job experience. One can learn everything else.’ Chiche shows that social inclusion can go hand in hand with professionalism and profitability.
It was clear from the beginning that the location in Hollerich was only to be for a short while. In the middle of September the new Chiche will open its door in Limpertberg, at 20, Rue Pasteur. The rented rooms are larger and there will no longer be a rest day. Marianne, Pit, and Chadi are still there of course. As a team they stand behind the continuing success story of Chiche. The concept of the kitchen and the design stays the same as well. ‘Chiche is becoming larger and more professional,’ says Chadi. ‘My dream to create something sustainable and large is becoming a reality! I’m happy to see that our guests come again and again and I am certain that it will stay this way.’ Besides the restaurant there will be a bar with falafel and smaller Middle Eastern snacks. There will also be takeaway counter at lunchtime for the many students of the area. Even a delivery service is planned. Then, in late www.chiche.lu autumn a second place in Esch will open.
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A WORLD OF RECIPES
American Cuisine
Defining American cuisine can be a challenge. America is a cultural melting pot influenced by the traditions and cuisines of the immigrants that populated the continent and the Native Americans that were already living there. This makes for quite a special cuisine that can feel both foreign and homey, casual and formal, spicy and bland, ethnic and original. There are many culinary differences in the different regions of America as well as adaptations of indigenous and foreign ingredients that are blended together to form interesting combinations. Pumpkin pie is a traditional dessert, served at the Thanksgiving table, and pumpkins epitomize the roots of American settlers. They were one of the earliest foods the European explorers brought back from the ‘New World’.
8 People
30 minutes + 3 hours setting time
For the crust: • 140 g pitted soft Medjool dates • 125 g rolled oats • 50 g pecans • ½ tsp cinnamon • ⅛ tsp sea salt • 2 tbsp coconut oil, at room temperature For the filling: • 500 g raw pumpkin (Hokkaido or any other sweet pumpkin) • 150 g raw cashews, soaked in water for 2-8 hours • 120 ml maple syrup • 80 ml coconut oil • 2 tsp vanilla extract • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • ¼ tsp sea salt • ⅛ tsp ground ginger • ⅛ tsp ground nutmeg 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 23 cm springform cake tin with coconut oil. 2 Prepare the crust: combine the oats, pecans, cinnamon, and salt in a food processor and blend until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Add the dates and oil and blend again until the mixture comes together. It should stick when pressed
with your fingers. 3 Place the crust mixture into the cake tin. Starting from the middle, press the crumbs firmly and evenly into the dish in an outward direction. The harder you press the crumbs into the tin, the more it will hold together. Push the crust up along the sides of the cake tin and even out the edges with your fingers. Poke a few fork holes in the crust and bake, uncovered, for 10-12 minutes, until lightly golden. Set aside to cool for 30 minutes. 4 Prepare the filling: peel, clean, and cut the pumpkin and place it in boiling water. Boil until soft and strain. The cooked, drained pumpkin should weigh around 250g. 5 In a clean food processor combine 250g of cooked pumpkin, drained cashews, maple syrup, coconut oil, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and sea salt and blend until completely smooth. It might take a few minutes, depending on your blender. 6 Pour the filling into the crust and smooth out the top. Cover the cake pan and place on an even surface in the freezer to chill for at least 5 hours, until firm. 7 Remove the pie from the freezer and let it sit on the counter for 10 minutes before slicing. The pie tastes best when still frozen.
TEXT, RECIPE & PHOTO VESELA SAVOVA
Pumpkin pie with an oat crust*
*Recipe adapted from Oh She Glows
This recipe offers a traditional pumpkin pie recipe with an unusual twist, in tune with the very definition of American cuisine.
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WELCOME TO THE DIMENSION
Enjoy an exceptional moment in the luxury of Le Royal. Bring your dreams to life in style at La Pomme Cannelle restaurant. Fabulous gastronomy and wonderful wines in great company. Le Royal Hotels & Resorts • L-2449 Luxembourg • 12, boulevard Royal T (+352) 24 16 16 1 • restauration-lux@leroyal.com leroyalluxembourg.com
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GRANDMOTHER’S RECIPE
Anne Leick, the creative mind behind the blog ‘Carnet de Saveurs’, is a nostalgic. For her, the family kitchen is a place where generations meet and common values are transmitted. These include ‘notes that are inserted into the pages of a book borrowed from friends or relatives, the memory of the joy of sharing, of happiness at the table, but also of journeys, the discovery of flavours, aromas, good products, the kitchens of the world...’. Today she will share a family recipe from her grandmother with us. www.carnetdesaveurs.com
Île flottante floating island
4 people
30 minutes
RECIPE ANNE LEICK PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
For the egg white: • 4 egg whites (approx. 150 g) • 50 g icing sugar • 1 l whole milk For the vanilla cream: • 500 g whole milk • 4 egg yolks • 120 g icing sugar • almond flakes to decorate 1 Beat the eggs and separate the egg whites from the yolks. 2 Place the milk in a large saucepan and heat at low heat (approx. 85° C). Be careful, the milk must not boil! 3 Place the egg whites in a mixing bowl and beat at medium speed, gradually adding the sugar. Finally, increase the speed until the egg white is firm. 4 Using a spoon, form balls of 5-6 cm in diameter from the beaten egg white and pour into the boiling milk. Cook the egg white for 5 minutes, turning once. Remove from the milk with a skimmer and place on absorbent paper. 5 Pour the milk through
a sieve and use 500 g for the vanilla cream. 6 In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks and the sugar to a whitish mixture. 7 Put the milk in a saucepan. Add the vanilla pod, cut lengthwise and scraped out, with the vanilla seeds and bring the milk to the boil. 8 Add the egg yolk mixture to the boiling liquid and mix with a spatula. Heat over a low heat (82°C) until the cream thickens. 9 Cover with a perforated cling film to allow the steam to escape. Allow to cool in a cool place and pass through a sieve. 10 Divide the cream into 4 bowls, add the egg white and decorate with the almond flakes. Tip: You can vary the main recipe at will: vanilla cream and egg white in combination with pink pralines, or with roasted almond flakes. Here Anne used caramel. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 89
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The best
APPLE PIE
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FARMER’S RECIPE
2 pies with a diameter of 28 cm 30 minutes - Cooking time: 45 minutes
RECIPE ALICE STEFFEN PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
Shortcrust pastry: • 150 g sugar • 150 g butter • 1 egg • 300 g flour • ¼ pack baking powder Pie topping: • 200 g sugar • 4 eggs • 50 g vanilla pudding powder • 50 ml milk • 8-10 apples (Jonagold) 1 Stir butter and sugar until foamy, add egg. 2 Stir in the sifted flour and baking powder. 3 Form a ball and wrap the dough in cling film or aluminium foil and put it in the fridge (the dough can also be prepared the day before). 4 Roll out the dough and place in buttered moulds. 5 Peel the apples and cut them into thin strips. 6 Place the apples on the dough. 7 Prepare the custard: froth up the sugar, pudding powder, and eggs with a whisk, stir in the milk and pour the mixture over the apples up to the edge of the dough. 8 Bake in a preheated oven at 180 °C (top and bottom heat) for 45 minutes. Leave to cool in the mould.
After a delicious walnut cake and pumpkin soup, which we presented in our magazine last autumn, as part of our cooperation with the Luxembourg Chamber of Agriculture, we had the pleasure of visiting Alice Steffen’s house once again. She gave us a very warm welcome. Her farm in Buschdorf has been specialising in the production of potatoes (Produit du terroir - Lëtzebuerger Gromperen) for three generations! This highly authentic and succulent family recipe (we can testify to this...) is a traditional apple pie recipe handed down from Alice’s father, who got it from his grandfather who was himself a pastry chef at the time.
To make the best ‘Rhubarbstaart’, use the same basic recipe. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 91
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Lëtzebuerger Rëndfleesch Produit du terroir A RECIPE BY DAVID ALBERT A recipe by David Albert, owner and chef of the restaurant De Klautjen in Roost (Bissen).
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LËTZEBUERGER RËNDFLEESCH
Produit du terroir
Lëtzebuerger Rëndfleesch
Burger ‘Terroir’ with local beef serves 6
Eng Passioun, e Genoss!
30 minutes
To make the burger • 1 kg pure finely ground beef • 2 red onions • 2 garlic cloves • 1 small bunch parsley • 2 slices dry bread • 100 ml milk • 1 egg • salt, pepper • 6 burger rolls • oil For the sauce • 300 g tomatoes, peeled (skinned) and diced • Tabasco • smoked salt • Worchester sauce • 1 onion • 2 garlic cloves Burger 1 Soak the bread in the milk. Peel onions and garlic and chop finely. Finely chop the parsley.
La viande d’origine de qualité 100% luxembourgeoise garantie de la fourche à la fourchette !
2 Mix onions, garlic, soaked bread (squeeze out excess milk) and the egg with the beef. Season with salt and pepper. 3 Form 6 burgers of 150 g each. Then fry the burgers in a preheated pan with a little oil on both sides until hot and finish in the oven at 170 °C as desired. Since the burger is made from pure beef, it can also be served rare. Sauce Peel onion and garlic and chop finely and add to the tomato cubes. Season with 1-2 teaspoons of Worcestershire sauce, add some Tabasco and season with some smoked salt. You can mix the sauce with a spoon or with a mixer. Serve Classic burger structure: first place a salad leaf on half of the roll, then a slice of tomato, the meat and for cheese lovers also a slice of cheese (chef‘s recommendation: take a slice of Berdorfer Roude Bouf and bake the burger under the grill).
www.produitduterroir.lu
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RECIPES MARCEL BIVER PHOTO RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
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TYPICALLY LUXEMBOURGISH
Trout à la Meunière Serves 4
20 minutes
• 4 trout, approx. 250-300 g per piece (scaled, gutted, cleaned) • 2 lemons • 100 g flour • 15 ml sunflower oil • 100 g butter • 1 bunch parsley 1 Lightly wash prepared trout and dry with kitchen paper. 2 Season inside and out with salt and pepper. 3 Fill completely with parsley and dredge fish in flour. 4 Melt oil and butter in pan and fry fish on both sides for approx. 5 minutes. 5 Remove from pan, pour off juice, add rest of butter to pan and brown until nutty. 6 Arrange fish on platter and pour hot butter on top. 7 Garnish with lemon and freshly chopped garden herbs. 8 Works well with salted potatoes and parsley or dill, and fresh salad.
ERRATUM Dear readers, Unfortunately, a mistake managed to slip into our summer edition. On the spread Typically Luxembourgish the photo showed a ‘blue trout’, but it was accompanied by instructions for a ‘trout meunière’. We now present the recipe for the ‘blue trout’ for you here, while the photo on the left shows the ‘trout meunière’!
Blue Trout Serves 4
60 minutes
• 4 trout, approx. 250 - 300 g per piece (gutted) • 1 carrot • 1 celery sticks • 3 small onions • 2 garlic cloves • 1 leek • some parsley • 2 bay leaves • 10 juniper berries • 4 cloves • ½ tsp white pepper • 4 l water • 150 ml white wine vinegar • 50 ml dry white wine (Elbling) • 2 lemons • 250 g butter
Marcel Biver
1 Peel the carrots and cut them into fine slices. Chop the celery and leek into coarse slices. Quarter the unpeeled onions and peel the garlic. 2 Bring water, vegetables, half of the vinegar, and the spices to the boil in a saucepan. Simmer for about 25 minutes, season to taste. 3 Wash the cleaned trout lightly and very carefully (otherwise they will not turn blue) and leave to stand in the rest of the vinegar for about 10 minutes on both sides (turn once). Add the white wine to the broth and cook the trout in the broth for about 10-15 minutes (do not boil). 4 To serve, carefully remove the trout and arrange on a deep plate. Arrange the cooked vegetables around the fish. Sprinkle with parsley and fresh herbs and serve with melted butter (slightly browned), some slices of lemon and fresh boiled potatoes. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 95
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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF
Jérémmy Parjouet Strassen’s cook with a double M
T
really a shame. Young people do not know what to expect. They he Route d’Arlon is long. The competition is fierce, says come here and say: that’s not what they told me at school.’ He Jérémmy Parjouet. No less than eighty gastronomic himself knew at the end of his training ‘exactly what it was I didn’t establishments of all kinds vie for customers on this road – from want to do.’ And that is ‘canteens and that kind of thing. I respect the takeaway to the culinary elite. Parjouet is well aware of this: that kind of work, but that was never my thing. I always wanted He has been the chef of the ‘Lion d’Or’, situated at 201, Route to cook great food with fresh ingredients and where everything is d’Arlon in Strassen, since the beginning of 2015. ‘I wanted to prepared in the kitchen itself. You need more time for return into the city because of my family,’ he says, that but then you’re also more satisfied.’ ‘and I wanted to work on my own account. Here, everything is much more central.’ Before moving to The brasserie serves fish and chips as well as volI never wanted Strassen, he had cooked in the ‘Becher Gare’. There, au-vent, tongue of veal, or even a leg of Castilian to do anything in 2013, he managed to get a Michelin star, the first suckling lamb, or lobster. The latter is of course also else. I always for the restaurant and the leap into the top group of served in the gastronomic restaurant. He himself Luxembourgish gastronomy. wanted to work in has no preferences in the kitchen, the forty-year old
„
maintains. ‘I cook everything. You have to be able to In Strassen’s ‘Lion d’Or’ he offers two different a kitchen. do everything.’ After all, he has only one helper in his experiences. One the one hand you have the brasserie kitchen: from Monday to Friday at lunchtime and in with about thirty seats, on the other the smaller the evenings, and Saturday evenings. Is that even sustainable? For gastronomic restaurant, with space for a maximum of twenty him no question: ‘I’m the chef,’ he says about his working hours. guests. ‘Both are important,’ says Parjouet. The brasserie with a ‘It’s all a question of organisation and preparation.’ Not even somewhat more traditional and simpler menu plays an especially weddings or other celebrations are a problem for him: ‘In those important commercial role for the place. The classier restaurant cases I get help in.’ is aimed particularly at business people, with prices for the menu ranging between 36 euros (three courses for lunch), 72 euros Parjouet has now been in Luxembourg for twenty years. ‘I came (five courses), and 90 euros (seven courses). ‘The dishes for both for a season and stayed until today. I like it here, ‘he says. He places are sometimes very similar. After all, it’s the same kitchen,’ has never regretted his decision for the Grand Duchy: ‘We are says Parjouet. really happy to have left France.’ In his earlier years he worked
„
That he would one day become a chef was always clear for little Jérémmy – who owes the spelling of his first name to his father’s convivial bet with a friend. His father owned his own restaurant for many years; his uncle was a pastry chef with the navy, his other uncle a cook. ‘From the age of two I was always in my grandmother’s kitchen,’ he remembers. ‘I never wanted to do anything else. I always wanted to work in a kitchen.’ After school he left his parents’ house in Troyes in the Champagne region and learned the trade in the college of hotel management in SaintQuentin (Aisne). ‘I was well aware of the realities of working in a kitchen, but you are not prepared for that in college,’ says Parjouet, ‘and that’s
in the starred ‘Les Crayères’ in Reims as well as in the local ‘Fin Gourmand’, and in ‘Ikki’. And now he stands in the kitchen of Strassen’s ‘Lion d’Or’. His wife Evelyne takes care of the service. In the evenings they get mostly guests from the neighbourhood. ‘We are becoming better known, things are moving forward,’ says Parjouet. ‘We have started to convince people.’
LION D’OR 201, Route d’Arlon • L-8011 Strassen Tel.: (+352) 26 33 44 04 • www.liondor-strassen.lu 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 97
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RECIPE JEREMMY PARJOUET PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF
Red mullet fillets
with pesto, tomatoes, pickled fennel and flavoured broth by Jérémmy Parjouet
Serves 4
prepared over 2 days
•4 red mullets à 300/400 g (filleted, also ask to keep the
bones) •2 kg tomatoes (of which at least 500 g Cornue des Andes or
oblong tomatoes), ideally from Les Paniers de Sandrine •2 50 g different cherry tomato varieties, ideally also from Les
Paniers de Sandrine • 1 fennel • 2 onions • 2 garlic cloves • 1 sprig thyme • 1 0 ml white wine • 1 0 ml white vinegar • 1 0 ml water •p aprika powder • s ugar, fine salt, ground pepper, olive oil, lemon juice • s everal types of basil, some edible flowers For the pesto: • 100 g basil • 1 garlic clove • 50 g parmesan cheese • 20 g roasted pine nuts • olive oil
For the broth: • All trimmings (fish bones, tomato skin and meat, fennel,
onions, basil stems) • 1 onion • 1 garlic clove The day before: Skin the 2 kg tomatoes: dip them in boiling water for 10 seconds and then let them cool in a bowl of ice cubes, then remove the skin (keep it) and put it aside. To make the tomato purée: Chop the onion and cut the 500 g oblong tomatoes into slices. Fry the chopped onion in olive oil in a frying pan until translucent. Add the tomato slices, the garlic clove and the thyme to the onions and cook in the oven at low heat (100 °C) for 5-10 minutes. Put aside.
To make the tomato quarters: Take another 500 g of tomatoes, quarter, remove the inner meat (store). Spread on a baking tray, sprinkle with sugar, salt, ground pepper, lemon juice, and a dash of olive oil, bake in the oven at 100 °C for 4 hours. Remove the tomatoes from the oven and pass them through a fine sieve to make a purée. Set aside. To make the pickled fennel: For the pickled fennel, bring vinegar, white wine, salt and pepper to the boil. Cut half of the fennel into strips, place in an airtight container and fill up with the hot liquid. Close and keep cool until the next day. To make the broth: Fry the red mullet bones in a pot, add the remaining fennel and the chopped onion, the tomato remains (meat and skins), a garlic clove and the basil and cover with water. Simmer for 30 minutes, turn off, cover, and leave to stand. After cooling, put in the fridge until the next day. To make the pesto: Crush all the ingredients in a mortar and add the olive oil. Rub the red mullet fillets on the meat side with the pesto and place in the fridge overnight. The next day: 1 Pass the broth through a fine sieve and cook to reduce. Season to taste. 2 Cut the remaining kilo of tomatoes and the cherry tomatoes into irregular cubes, season with Fleur de Sel, ground pepper, and olive oil and refrigerate for an hour. After an hour, mix the water that the tomatoes have released with a little lemon juice and olive oil to make a tomato vinaigrette. 3 Switch on the grill function in the oven. Grill the red mullets for 2-3 minutes on the highest level of the oven. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 99
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Duly arrived at the Gare in Bech:
1000 seats, as well as a gastronomic restaurant for officers and guests, which offered a cuisine of the same standard ‘as you might experience in a private restaurant of the highest calibre.’
‘I’ve definitely arrived in Bech,’ says Frédéric Vuillemin, ‘I feel at home here.’ The 49-year old from Annecy in France has been the tenant of the ‘Becher-Gare’ since March 2017. Since then too, the establishment with its long and changing history has once more become a fixture in Luxembourgish gastronomy. Vuillemin says, self-deprecatingly, he wants to do no more than run a country inn, an ‘Auberge de Campagne’. Two and a half years after he started – ‘at the beginning we were a bit afraid’ – he can paint a positive picture: ‘It’s going very well, better than expected.’
The teachings of that military kitchen? ‘Discipline, organisation, and camaraderie,’ says Vuillemin. He does not order people around in the kitchen: ‘But everybody has to know what they’re doing, what their task are and what their needs are. That saves a lot of time.’ After he left the military he took over a small, bankrupt restaurant east of Marseille in Var. He brought it back from the brink, sold it – and visited a friend in Luxembourg. ‘That was the time I fell in love with Luxembourg.’ France has become ‘a difficult country to work in.’ As a businessperson you constantly find yourself ‘in a perpetual struggle.’ So he moved to Luxembourg in 2001 and started in the ‘Hotel du Golf ’ in Clervaux as the chef.
After finishing his A-levels he worked as one of those French marines who stand to attention at all times for employment abroad. After a few years (‘I’m an autodidact’) he changed course and chose a somewhat calmer realm. He took over four military restaurants in Marseille. The kitchen served a canteen with
After several in-between stops, the ‘Becher-Gare’ is a dream come true for Vuillemin. ‘I want to have an eatery in which people feel at home. Where they can come and be themselves. Where they can bring a dusty dog after a dusty trip. Where we keep a simple kitchen. Sometimes also a somewhat more sophisticated one.’ You
Frédéric Vuillemin
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RESTAURANT PORTRAIT PORTRAIT RESTAURANT
need to be able to simply come and drink a coffee or a bier. Or eat a leisurely meal. Sometimes guests stay for a few hours after lunch: ‘I find that very likeable.’
PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
Of course, this ‘Auberge de Campagne’ is not quite so simple. Vuillemin (‘we don’t play tricks’) likes to work with high-quality fish and scallops as well as local, organic produce. He makes a point to serve exquisite wines and excellent bier. The tiny ‘Echternacher Brauerei’ provides the former station house with drinks: ‘Bier can hardly get more fresh.’ Yet, he says he does not fancy a star: ‘What I strive for is quality of life.’ Naturally, the legendary Ketty Stoos, former stationmaster and, until 2005, owner of the ‘Café de la Gare’, is represented through pictures and memorabilia throughout the establishment. From 1904 to 1954 the light railway ‘Charly’ chugged through the capital and from there to Echternach, 45 kilometres away. Bech was, for many Luxembourgers, a destination for a trip – closely connected with ‘Ketty’ as well as with ‘Charly’. These days the guests of the ‘Becher-Gare’ come mostly from the neighbourhood. ‘There are very few possibilities to discover us by chance.’ But word of mouth works too.
‘The Luxembourgish are more gourmand than the French,’ says Vuillemin. ‘The love for the kitchen of the ‘Terroir’ is somewhat lost in France today.’ He would love to have another group of regulars in his café-restaurant, so that he can talk more frequently about food with his guests. ‘A short while ago I had wonderful courgettes. The guests ate everything, but not the courgettes. I wanted to tell them that they have to try them. They were the best courgettes of the past ten years.’ Sometimes guests ignore the small, edible flowers on their plates too and miss out on a whole flavour. Vuillemin has also built a small alpine chalet, especially for the winter. For even though Bech is his home and he delights to see the valley with its sheep every morning, he does miss the mountains quite a bit.
BECHER-GARE Becher Gare • L-6230 Bech (Luxembourg) Tel.: (+352) 26 78 42 40 • www.bechergare.lu 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 101
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) 3 t r a P ( E M I R C & n e l e dd
i n K , s i é Kachk
spers
Susanne Ja
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3)
s
CULINARY THRILLER
Guy’s sister makes an astonishing discovery. There is something not quite right with the dumpling that Bea took away with her from the restaurant where the man at the next table died…
‘Here we have the probable cause: batrachotoxin.’ Ah. Bea did not understand a word. She saw nothing in the test glass filled with a liquid that Lis was holding up to her. ‘It’s derived from the skin of the South American poison dart frog. It’s a bit like the better-known curare, only quite a bit more deadly. If you even ingest the tiniest amount, say the size of two salt kernels, that’s it, you’re toast. You get muscle cramps, ventricular fibrillation, and finally heart failure. The only thing that can help you is the poison of the similarly deadly Japanese puffer fish Fugu, ironic, what? Unfortunately, the latter was not in the dish your dead friend ordered with his Kniddelen. I found traces of batrachotoxin in the dumpling you brought along. If the man had already eaten most of his portion – and we assume that the piece you brought me was not the only bit that had been spiked – well, it should have been quite sufficient to kill the big guy.’ Bea had to concede that empathy and compassion were not the strengths of Guy’s sister. ‘So what do we do with this knowledge?’ ‘I have a good friend in the detective police department, Christiane Scholtes. I suggest calling her tomorrow morning and we can set up a meeting with her. I can imagine she will be very interested in what we have to say. And now,’ with that Liz closed the meeting in her lab, ‘a toast to our investigative flair.’ When Bea came home it was pretty late and she was quite tipsy, and Guy had already gone to bed. He had not replied to her text telling him that she would be home late. He was probably annoyed. She could understand that. But it had been too tempting to forgo the disgusting Feierstengszalot. Anyway, it could not hurt for her to have a good relationship with Guy’s sister. After all, she and Guy were pretty serious now. Sometimes she asked herself if it would not be a good idea to make it official. Until now Guy had not made any attempts to rectify the matter, however. Judging by his mood nothing would change in that regard, for now at least. ‘Feierstengszalot is in the fridge,’ she read on a note on the kitchen table. No sign of ‘kiss,’ darling,’ or even ‘good night’. Oh dear, breakfast will be fun.
a whatsapp from Lis to meet her in two hours in the Chocolate House, where Christiane Scholtes would join them. Bea immediately liked the policewoman. The latter was, however, not delighted with Bea and Lis’ news. ‘Oh dear, the body is basically ready to be released. Everybody has assumed death by natural causes. After all, the doctor already diagnosed heart failure in the restaurant. Happens more often than you think, especially with him being overweight. Later too, when the body was examined more carefully, nothing unusual was discovered. Especially since his widow told us earnestly hat her husband had been suffering from heart problems for a while now. But now, from what you’ve told me, I guess we have a case.’ Lis looked like she was thinking hard. ‘I think I might be able to help,’ she said. ‘You see, murder through poison is normally carried out via an injection. You said that the examination of the body did not result in anything suspicious. Which means that there were no needle marks. That means…’ Lis raised her voice and held up a finger triumphantly (and a little bit condescendingly as Bea found), ‘that the murderer knew the victim.’ Christiane and Bea looked at her uncomprehending. ‘For,’ Liz continued, ‘taking Batrachotoxin orally is not dangerous for people who are healthy. Only for someone who suffers from gastro-intestinal diseases can it be deadly. So, the killer must have known that the man was ill,’ she said. ‘That’s not something every kitchen help would have known, but only someone who really knew the big guy. Alright, and now let’s order some Mendiants, they are delicious here!’
PART 1 But she need not have worried. When she entered the kitchen the next morning slightly hung over, Guy had already left. The container with the Luxembourgish speciality had gone from the fridge. Guy must have taken it to the office with him. Thank goodness! She was just thinking about ways to change his bad mood when she received
PART 2
M
TIP
Scan the barcode and discover the previous episodes 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 103
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2020
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BLOG AWARD
The KACHEN Blog Award goes into the second round! This time with the categories FOOD, LIFESTYLE and FASHION & BEAUTY
The award ceremony will take place on May 13th 2020
Together with exclusive print media partner LUXEMBURGER WORT, we will organize blogger events with the participating partners throughout the year. The events will be covered by both publications, KACHEN and LUXEMBURGER WORT, as well as on social media, of course! The project will culminate in the grand award ceremony in May 2020, with all the partners and the participating bloggers and influencers.
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WHAT TO EXPECT
PARTICIPANTS
Visibility
CATEGORY FOOD
The participating bloggers and influencers will be presented online and in print throughout the duration of the BLOG AWARD.
Prizes Awesome prizes for the winners of the KACHEN BLOG AWARD 2020, provided by the KACHEN BLOG AWARD partners.
Partner events Special events for the participating bloggers and influencers, organised in collaboration with the KACHEN BLOG AWARD partners.
Award Ceremony The winners will be announced during the big gala event in spring 2020. The date is the May 13th 2020.
Participants Registration for the Blog Award is now open at www. blogaward.lu. All bloggers and influencers in Luxembourg, regardless of their nationality, and all Luxembourgers abroad maintaining a blog can sign up. Blogs in different languages can participate, as long as these blogs are connected to Luxembourg. The Blog Award reflects the versatility of Luxembourg’s blogosphere.
The Jury Prominent jury members will assess the categories Food, Lifestyle and Fashion & Beauty. Lifestyle blogs include topics, such as Wellness, Health, Fitness, Do It Yourself, Travel and Design. Food blogs include recipes, restaurant reviews, as
Beyond the Blush
Meriam Lahlali www.beyondtheblush.com Passionate about food, my blog is the place where I share my healthy (or not) recipes. I love taking “unhealthy” options and transforming them to make healthier versions with unusual ingredients. It’s a lot of fun and the result sometimes is deliciously mind-blowing. I also love styling and taking my own photos so my readers are tempted to re-create my food recipes.
Kleines Kuliversum
Jill Novak www.kleineskuliversum.com Passionate cooking is at the heart of Im Kleinen Kuliversum. Here, the enjoyment is in the foreground and I place great importance on good, seasonal and regional ingredients. I’m happy on a meat-free diet and that is what I would like to convey to my blog readers through simple and tasty recipes. On my travels I love to try local and typical dishes by visiting local restaurants, participating in cooking classes and cooking with locals. In addition to cooking, I have been involved for several years in the preparation and preservation of food. I pass on my knowledge to my readers in the form of recipes, who can already find a large number of recipe ideas in my blog.
well as food photography and styling. The new category Fashion & Beauty includes topics such as fashion, personal care, and styling. The jury vote is based on different criteria. The focus is on liveliness and regular updates of the blog, photos and image quality. Text quality and innovative content, as well as a clear goal of the blog are important criteria as well. The creativity, design and innovation in the blog presentation, as well as the marketing activities are also considered in the assessment. Our exclusive print partner Luxembourger Wort will consecutively present the participating blogs on a full page every month! Further information and registration at www.blogaward.lu.
Liebe Mit Biss Malou Donven liebemitbiss.com
Cooking is my passion. I love to search and try out recipes in cookbooks, as well as on the Internet. Originally, my blog was meant for me to document all my favorite recipes. I didn’t realize that I would be sharing these with so many other cooking enthusiasts. All recipes on the blog have been tried by me and I share only the ones that have been successful and taste good. There are simple recipes for everyday life, as well as menus for holiday or special occasions.
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BLOG AWARD
Hungry Italian in Town Giovanni Farinella www.hungryitalianintown.com
Hungry Italian in Town is an international blog, started in 2016 as an Instagram page that is now counting more than 10k followers. The blog is a collection of reviews of restaurants around the globe (United States, Europe, Asia), taking its readers on a journey that includes some of the best fine dining experiences as well as hidden gems for adventurous travelers. The blog also hosts interviews with the most reputed chefs in the world (Bottura, Roca …) as well as a recipe section as a personal homage to my origins and inspiration collected in years of dining encounters.
Milly’s Melting Pot Myriam Visram www.milly.at
Milly’s Melting Pot is a food and science blog designed to offer a quiet and relaxing place for people to come together around a table with steaming and delicious food and, just for a moment, let the world turn without us. Born from a passion for cooking, Milly’s Melting Pot strives to combine many exciting culinary cultures as well as recent scientific advances to give it’s readers new insights into the good things in life! Because food is not just necessary for survival, it is so much more.
My Picked Food
CATEGORY LIFESTYLE Merlanne
Claudine Freylinger www.merlanne.lu Since 2013 I write and show photography about different lifestyle topics: diy, food, Luxembourg, gardening, flowers, traveling.
CATEGORY FASHION & BEAUTY My Little Fashion Diary Emilie Higle www.mylittlefashiondiary.net
Passionate about fashion and photography, Emilie Higle is from France and lives in Luxembourg. She has been running the blog My Little Fashion Diary for a few years now. She shares her looks, favorite beauty products, the events she participates in and her travels. Each season she covers the international fashion week and likes to travel the world. She has launched a MasterClass Studio, a program with different modules, dealing with digital marketing and how to master its rules.
OUR PARTNERS
Jeia Scholtus www.mypickedfood.lu ‘Regional and Seasonal’ is the motto of Mypickedfood. With ingredients from her own garden, nature or from local farms, Jeja works her magic to create suitable recipes for every season. From the appetizer to the main course, as well as great gift ideas from the garden; Mypickedfood has something for every taste.
Claudia Vous Régale Claudia Zanchetta claudiavousregale.com
Passionate about cooking, baking and traveling, I share my recipes and pictures of my achievements and all that I love. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 107
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VINTNER FAMILIES
VINEYARD DOMAINE HENRI RUPPERT
Emblems and seals of quality
TEXT CLAUDE FRANÇOIS PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
‘If you have a wine that costs 20 euros then you expect the quality to be worth 20 euros,’ stresses Henri Ruppert. The wine-grower from Schengen has risked and invested much in order to transform a modest family business into a model company, whose top wines belong to the best and most endowed of the region.
A clear vision and the courage to take risks
From Schengen to Markusberg
Henri Ruppert was just twenty-one years old when he took over the family business in 1990 – whose origins go back to 1680. The three hectares of vineyard grew mostly Elbling and Rivaner. For the young man, who was training to be a wine-grower, businessman, and viniculture technician, that was too little. He had other ideas: he wanted to produce high-quality wines and swapped the basic range for white Burgundy varieties. Gripped by a pioneering spirit the young entrepreneur started to implement several vintages of various varieties in his winery, which bordered his parents’ petrol station. His core ideas were selection, optimal ripeness, and a select harvest.
The wine-grower’s success spoke loudly. Yet, with time, the small vineyard in Schengen was overflowing: Henri Ruppert needed a different, more viable solution. When the possibility presented itself to open a new place in the vineyards on Markusberg he and his family decided to put the plans of the internationally known architect François Valentiny, from neighbouring Remerschen, into practice. The project was bold and eccentric. Already during the build people goggled at the unusual and imposing structure, which was then, as it is today, a real eye-catcher.
Since starting in 2006, Ruppert offers some of his Cru varieties under names taken from their locations. These wines have always come from a small harvest; not more than 30 to 45 hectolitres per hectare. Today, that is standard practice for Ruppert’s top wines. Indeed, these days even smaller harvests are brought in. The good Cru wines from the first-time series ‘Sélection 12’ are also produced in comparatively small yields.
At the same time, the building is very functional and it allows Henri Ruppert to achieve his visions and ambitions. Implementing his new installations (thermoregulation, gravity wine pressing, Barrique-Park) as well as procedures such as the consequent spontaneous fermentation of the Riesling wines, allowed Ruppert to put his concepts for quality into action.
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VINTNER FAMILIES
From 6.5 to just under 20 hectares
A focus on wine tourism
When, in 2008, he opened his new winery, he had 6.5 hectares at his disposal. ‘That was, however, far too little in order to finance the installations long term, which meant that we were constantly expanding,’ says the wine-grower, smiling. Today the vineyard holds just over 20 hectares, which makes it one of the largest privately owned vineyards in the country. ‘Within the last ten years we managed to expand the vineyard to three times its size and maximise the turnover five times over,’ says the wine-grower.
The vineyard Henri Ruppert opened in 2008 for visitors and tourists. ‘We are lucky in Schengen that many tourists come here to have a look around. We have to speak a lot of English now, and it’s getting even more frequent,’ he says. The vineyard is also regularly visited by students of viniculture. The Domaine Henri Ruppert is excellently suited to private and business events. The stylish wine tavern has a view onto the Mosel River and onto the barrique cellar. The banquet hall, which also boasts a Mosel view, can be booked for larger groups. The vineyard informs interested parties about its events, which are always popular, via a newsletter.
Bit by bit Ruppert’s top Cru wines, such as the Riesling Quartz or the Pinto Noir ‘Ma Tâche’ (a brash homage to the tiny, top location in the Bourgogne), became icons of Luxembourgish wine production. ‘We have managed to build our image over time and our clients have come along for the ride,’ says Henri Ruppert happily. Yet, even the vineyard on Markusberg is slowly growing too small. ‘Right now I have slowed down the production but it is possible that we will add a few more hectares in the coming years,’ Ruppert reveals. He is already working on the plans for a warehouse at the foot of the Markusberg, which should be finished in two years time.
Domaine Henri Ruppert 1, um Markusberg • L-5445 Schengen Tel.: (+352) 26 66 55 66 www.domaine-ruppert.lu
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NOBLE DROPS
CRÉMANT ST MARTIN BRUT 100 ANS
GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2018 DOMAINE KRIER-WELBES Bech-Kleinmacher Falkenberg, organic wine
The ‘Crémant St Martin Brut 100 YEARS’ is a worthy product of centuries-old knowledge and reflects the magic and charm of a unique place. In the darkness of the underground corridors, hidden from view, a crémant with fine and refined bubbles has matured and will seduce you with its aromatic complexity of notes of citrus and white peaches and a fresh finish. Let the celebration begin...
Wine of a brilliant golden yellow color, expressive nose: mango, lychee, then notes of rose petals all raised with a touch of sweet spices. The same fruitiness blossoms in the mouth, a harmonious, full-bodied palate, where the exotic fruits persistently dominate. All the aromatic power and generosity of the varietal, in a respected balance. Wine with great aging potential, that goes well with many cheeses.
Visit the most beautiful cellars of the Luxembourg Moselle
Available at the estate in Ellange-Gare ; www.krierwelbes.lu and on Letzshop https://letzshop.lu/ellange/ vendors/domaine-krier-welbes
11.58 €
15.90 € / 750 ml 10.90 € / 500 ml
www.cavesstmartin.lu
CRÉMANT POLL-FABAIRE CUVÉE CHARDONNAY
DESOM Since the start of the summer, Domaine Desom has been selling a new range of still wines in magnums, also available in boxes of 3: an oak-aged Chardonnay, a partly oak-aged Pinot Gris and a Pinot Noir Rosé.
Due to its natural freshness and those particular aromas typical for Chardonnay, this Crémant charms in every way. Because of its discreet aroma and certain creaminess, it is mostly enjoyed as an apéritif, but can be paired with many spicy or strongly flavoured dishes.
Domaine Desom www.desom.lu 2018 CHARDONNAY Remich Fels élevé en fût de chêne
28.50 €/1.5 l
2018 PINOT GRIS Wellenstein Foulschette
26.50 €/1.5 l
2018 PINOT NOIR Rosé Bech-Kleinmacher Enschberg
22.50 €/1.5 l
12.00 € / 0.75 l Taste the Crémant Cuvée Chardonnay and other extraordinary Crémants and wines in the 5 vinotheques of Domaines Vinsmoselle. www.vinsmoselle.lu
GIVEAWAY We're giving away one box containing all the bottles depicted above. Answer the following question: How many bottles are we giving away on this page? Send an email with your name and address and the correct answer under the heading NOBLE DROPS to gewinnen@kachen.lu Submission deadline is 31 October 2019 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 111
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WINE-NEWS
CONCOURS NATIONAL DES CRÉMANT: 27 MEDALS INCLUDING 21 GOLD MEDALS The 28th ‘Concours National des Crémants’ held by France and Luxembourg took place at the end of May in Die in the south-east of France, also called the Clairette region. Cellars and Wineries from Luxembourg were present along with their colleagues who produce crémant from France, namely from the regions of Alsace, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Die, Limoux, Loire, Jura, and Savoie. The harvest was a very successful one for the Crémants of the Luxembourg Moselle: 27 medals were awarded, 21 of those gold. Domaines Vinsmoselle won eight gold medals for different vintages of the POLL-FABAIRE Crémant, while Caves Desom of Remich received gold four times. Two gold medals were awarded to Caves St Martin, and one gold medal each to L&R Kox, Pundel-Hoffeld, Krier-Frères, Clos des Rochers, Sunnen-Hoffmann, and Mathes as well as to Caves Gales. Six silver medals went to Thill, Mathes, and Pundel-Hoffeld vineyards, to Caves Gales and Krier-Frères and to the “Institut Viti Vinicole - Domaine de l‘Etat”. The next competition will take place in Burgundy.
24 MEDALS AT THE ‘BERLINER WINE TROPHY’ The Berliner Wine Trophy is the world‘s largest international wine tasting event under the auspices of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) and the International Union of Oenologists (UIOE). The competition is under notarial supervision and strictly controlled. Various producers from Luxembourg took part in the July summer tasting and won numerous medals. The ‘Gewürztraminer’ Vin de Paille 2018 of the Domaines Vinsmoselle received the highest award: ‘Big Gold’. Gold medals went to the Domaines Vinsmoselle (9), the Caves Gales (3), the Caves Krier Frères (3), and the Caves St. Martin (2). Silver medals were awarded to the Domaines Vinsmoselle (5) and Caves St. Martin (1).
GUIDE HACHETTE 2020: STARS AND “COUPS DE CŒUR” For 20 years now, the “Guide Hachette des vins” has also honoured Luxembourg wines. The new guide was published at the beginning of September and lists the Luxembourgish wines and Cremants that were highly appreciated by the jury during the tasting session on 29 April at the Institut viti-vinicole in Remich. Most of the presented wines came from the 2018 vintage, which was still very young at the time of the tasting. As always, the wines with the highest ratings have received three stars, and the awarding of two or one star is equally remarkable. Other wines are mentioned without medals, while three still wines and one crémant were awarded a “Coup de cœur” by the final jury: Pinot Gris Wormeldange Mohrberg 2018 and Gewürztraminer Machtum Göllebour by Domaines Vinsmoselle; Riesling Palmberg 2018 by Caves Berna and Crémant Alexandre de Musset Brut by Domaine Schumacher-Knepper.
„LA
FÊTE DES VINS & CRÉMANTS“ ONCE MORE UNDER THE CIRCUS TENT This year, the popular wine and crémant festival, the ‘Fête des Vins et des Crémants’ will take place once more, after a few years’ break, in the Advent Circus tent in the Glacis Square in Luxembourg – a venue with a very special charm. The vast majority of Luxembourg‘s wineries and estates take part in that event. During three days in mid-November (15th to 17th Nov), visitors can taste the wines and Crémants at all the stands. There will also be an animation program for adults and children.
Luxembourg wine festivals in autumn ‘Schengener Hunnefeier’ 20th October Schengen celebrates the end of this year’s grape harvest: wine tastings, flea market and crafts market, international street artists, exhibition of agricultural machinery, pony riding, carousel...
D’Miselerland brennt 27th October The fruit distillers invite you to their traditional distillery day. With numerous animations, guided tours, hikes, and culinary menus! Participants are the distilleries Zenner (Schwebsingen), Diedenacker/Duhr-Merges (Niederdonven), Max-Lahr (Ahn), Rhein-Glock (Erpeldingen), Streng (Grevenmacher) and Weber (Wormeldange-Haut).
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LUXEMBOURG, SMALL COUNTRY, GRE AT WINES WWW.VINS-CREMANTS.LU
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Super sweet and scrumptious
The two best-known cream liqueurs in the world look very similar, are comparable in consistency and do not taste – at least to the uninitiated – dissimilar. In reality, the differences between the African Amarula and the Irish Baileys span far more than only continents.
W
e have a friend who consequently does not drink alcohol. He does not like wine or beer and anything stronger makes him feel nauseated just by looking at it. With one exception: after every lunch he treats himself to a glass Amarula. He simply cannot resist the sweet cream liqueur. He is definitely not the only one… This friend of ours first tasted and learned to love the African speciality on a trip to Namibia. That is not actually where Amarula originates; it is produced in South Africa. Nevertheless, what connects Namibia with the creamy drink are the fruit of the marula tree, which only grows south of the equator, and even there only in Botswana, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Swaziland, and – exactly: Namibia. Once a year the female marula tree carries small fruit, similar to plums, which slowly develop an intensive yellow colour. To check whether the nutty and lemony fruit is ripe and can be harvested you apparently need elephants. They can smell the seductive scent of the ripe marulas from miles away and travel several kilometres in order to feast on the fruit. That is, anyway, what the producer says. But is it true?
Boozy sessions for elephants It’s very possible. That elephants like marulas has become popular knowledge, at the latest since the South African documentary ‘Animals are Beautiful People’ (1974). What this film also showed, however, was that the animals, rather than pick the fresh fruit, much prefer the fruit to fall, overripe, to the ground. And it’s not only elephants that prefer this. The documentary shows drunken monkeys, antelopes, meerkats, giraffes, and warthogs – all enjoying the boozy effects of the rotting fruit in intimate harmony. In the stomachs of the elephants and meerkats the fruit ferments even further and has quite an intoxicating effect, including a bad hangover the next day.
No Baileys in the bar? No problem! With the right ingredients you can mix the drink yourself. For half a litre of liqueur you will need 40ml cream, 80ml whisky (Irish if you can get it), 4 tsp cocoa powder, 4 tsp icing sugar, and one packet vanilla sugar. Combine everything thoroughly in a mixer and serve with ice cubes. What is not consumed immediately can be kept in the fridge for just about a week.
Oak barrel rather than an elephant’s stomach For human connoisseurs, however, this boozy fun is not recommended. Anyway, it’s not as if the common European stumbles across the marula tree throwing off its fruit on a daily basis. The liqueur was up until quite recently almost unknown outside of Africa but is now enjoyed in over a hundred countries. For the production of the drink, the fruit is harvested by hand, pitted, crushed, fermented and then stored in oak barrels for two years, which add their typical aroma to the drink. At the end, cream is added, as well as another secret ingredient. And so the elephants’ favourite drink is made. Seventeen turns are probably better to digest than rotting fruit in your stomach.
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DOSSIER
Geckos prefer the Irish variety Even though there are some people who say that the story about the drunken animals from the documentary is made up and that elephants cannot get drunk from rotting marulas – isn’t it simply too good a story? Indeed, there is proof that some animals do enjoy alcohol. The author of this article, for example, made friends with a gecko on Cousine Island in the Seychelles. Every evening found the animal arriving at the house bar of the holiday resort, having a glass of cream liqueur pored and enjoying the drink before moving away, swaying slightly. Yet, the gecko ignored Amarula, it was only Baileys, which was of interest.
Baileys Ladies The difference between the African cream liqueur and its biggest rival from Ireland consist mostly in the fact that the latter is made without fruit. The main ingredient in the Irish cream liqueur is, well, cream. The cream used for Baileys is made only in Ireland. Importantly, it is made only from milk that derives from happy cows – also called the ‘Baileys Ladies’ – that graze contently on the green Irish fields. The cows’ contentedness and the resulting excellent taste of their milk seems to work: Baileys is worldwide the largest producer of cream liqueur with a market share of 50 per cent. The cream is of course not the only ingredient. You need a large portion of Irish whisky, vanilla and cocoa flavour, as well as the usual secret ingredients. What is not known is whether the ‘Baileys Ladies’ are allowed to taste a sip of the popular drink they are so vital for.
Highly effective for the wedding night? According to legend the fruit of the marula tree has aphrodisiac properties. The inhabitants of the South African province Limpopo make a kind of beer from the yellow fruit and say that this marula-beer will give you amazing sexual superpowers. Superpowers, which can ‘make the women laugh all night’, as they say. What is perhaps not quite fair or gender-sensitive is that while the women make the marula-beer, from the third day after the drink is made, only the men partake in it, on account of its increasing alcohol content. But perhaps they have more need of it. What applies to the beer also applies to the cream liqueur: two or three little glasses can be help against nerves on your wedding night – if you believe in the ‘spirit of Africa’…
TEXT SUSANNE JASPERS
Traditional drink... As if! What both liqueurs have in common is that they are still relatively young. While Irish whisky was probably invented in the 6th century AD, the idea to create a liqueur from the spirit stems from 1970s Dublin, where a certain David Dand began to experiment with a few friends. The African relative is advertised with a slogan seemingly steeped in history – ‘The Spirit of Africa’ – and people and elephants have been eating the marula fruit for hundreds of years and, according to scientists, the fruit has been harvested for over 10.000 years. Yet, ‘The Spirit of Africa’ has officially existed only since 1989. 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 115
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The pearls of the champagne region... 116 | KACHEN | 3 / 2019
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DOSSIER
At the heart of the vineyards in the Champagne With the grape harvest in full swing KACHEN is delighted to recount a visit to the passionate wine growers in the heart of the vineyards of the Champagne. Thanks to Agnès and Sebastien Rouilleaux from Craft & Compagnie – the wine curators of extraordinary Champagne and residing in Luxembourg, who determinedly defend the traditional Champagne viticulture – we were able to get to learn the diversity and richness of this living heritage.
At our arrival in the Champagne we were greeted by a moody and cloudy sky that very much looked like it was about to storm – a sky that can drive fear and worry into the heart of wine growers. We saw vineyards as far as the eye can see, traditional villages, extraordinary restaurants… In 2015 the UNESCO declares the ‘vineyards, houses, and wine cellars of the Champagne region’ a world heritage site. This means that the continuance of the production of this extraordinary culturally rich drink will be protected for a long time. Here, in this region, the diversity of the environment creates endless varieties, and the three main components – climate, soil, and terrain – build specific combinations, which are individual to each parcel of land.
Stringently regulated production Besides the fact that vineyards producing Champagne have to be situated in a specific area, precise regulations pertaining to the aromatisation of the wine through the natural fermentation process in the bottle have to be followed, as well as the regulations found in the rule book for the controlled origin of the name of Champagne. After the grape harvest – done by hand of course – the first fermentation
process, the alcoholic fermentation, is induced, which transforms the must into wine. Wine yeast transforms sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide, as well as other characterising components of the wine. This fermentation happens directly after compressing in stainless steel tanks or barrels. The malolactic fermentation follows, which transforms malic acid into lactic acid. During this process the flavour of the wine develops. The second fermentation is not necessarily required and many wine growers of Champagne omit the step in order to retain the fresh and flowery-fruity aroma of the grapes.
Discover extraordinary Champagnes With Champagne, like with wine, the most important factor in the production is passion… Today, the process is very different for each wine; it all depends on the wine grower. The parameters lie differently each time: differing ideas about style, ageing, and quality are put into action. Large wine companies use consistent formulae that have proved to be successful to create Champagne, which delivers on the expected consistency of notes and aromas. Yet, there is a new generation of wine growers who are deviating from this production norm. Similarly to the slow food movement, they advocate for a return to 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 117
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DOSSIER
Alexandre Chartogne
Muselet Valentin This wire basket was originally developed to overcome technical difficulties connected to the optimal closure of the Champagne bottles. Today the company Sparflex produces the Muselet Valentin and so prevents the knowledge from disappearing. The Muselet Valentin closure is the only one made in France – a large percentage of the bubbling world of champagne. The company sells 350.000.000 wire baskets yearly. The Muselets are constantly being developed. The biggest challenge lies in the fact that nobody produces the machines needed to make the wire baskets anymore. The company, which prides itself on sustainable processes as well as innovation and transmission, has to produce them itself. Because of this Sparflex has been named ‘Entreprise du patrimonie vivant’. The technical progress allows for a production that is adapted to the wishes of the clients, through different printing-, stamp-, and colour-techniques and allows for an individual manufacture for each vineyard. The caps and wire baskets have become popular collector’s items.
Emmanuel Fourny
their own region with its culture and specificities, but also a return to the traditional taste and the experience of bygone days. We were able to meet some of these passionate wine growers, production artists of the prized sparkling wine, who are standing out from the crowd by advocating for a return to their roots, worthy of their soil and their grapes; thus able to unlock the quintessential and refined uniqueness of the individual patches of land.
The importance of the soil According to Alexandre Chartogne, a young and talented wine grower from Chartogne-Taillet, Nature plays a fundamental role in the creation of Champagne. Of course, his own influence on the end product is a given. Because he likes to deviate from the family tradition he is able to create unique wines. For him, the ideal way to produce wine means being aware of the specificity of individual patches of land and taking those into account in the production process. The Champagne region is not a homogenous producing region. The first and most important aspect: understanding the wine… ‘That is essential for us,’ says Alexandre Chartogne, ‘to understand the place and the
distinctive influence that will have on the wine before we start with the production.’ Thanks to his input considering the individuality of each patch of land he manages to reflect the diversity and wealth of his vineyard in his extraordinary wines. The tasting of Alexandre’s pale wines persuades us. A pale wine is a wine whose alcoholic fermentation is completed and which can be merged with other wines before it is filled into bottles, so that a second fermentation can begin, which creates the typical froth. The difference between a wine that is produced in a new barrel and the same wine produced in a barrel that is several years in use is remarkable. The influence of the wood on the wine, and therefore the importance of the wine grower’s decision for their future harvest, can be easily traced here.
From the soil to the bottle Further south we met Emmanuel Fourny, another passionate wine grower, who, with his brother Charles-Henry, is the fifth generation of wine growers of Veuve Fourny. The brothers feel closely connected to their land and, together, they are responsible for ten vintages that come
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Lightening up your life since 1991
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DOSSIER
*The Solera system – origin of the Champagne’s zest Many wine growers use a blend of different vintages. However, with the Solera system you get immediate zest. Working with that system you provide the vintage with character and depth. Every year, young wine is added to the already somewhat matured wines. This process continues for years.
from the vineyards of the Premier-Cur area Vertus. This area’s soil has, on account of its high lime component and the low percentage of clay, a very high percentage of chalk. ‘The most southern Chardonnay has a very fruity note and is more rounded than most, and finishes with a mineral taste. Chalk produces aroma during the fermentation. Here, it creates a liquorice note as well as a strong peak,’ explains Emmanuel Fourny. The brothers practice a strict separation of individual or groups of wines on their 60 tracts of land. It is after the harvest of the ripe grapes that their oenological knowledge is applied. Only after daily observation of the vintages over several months are these merged in order to produce especially refined wines. They further use, if only sparingly, the Solera*-system so that their champagnes become extra characterful. Finally, the wines are filled into bottles unstrained so that the process is as gentle as possible and the aromas have the chance to unfold. Every stage of the process happens in step with Nature: from the vinification to the merging of the vintages. It’s all part of a demanding and authentic process, which makes the champagne so fruity, gives it a long finish and a mineral and chalky note.
More and more exceptional Champagnes The estate Pierre Paillard is also worth a visit. In their parents’ footsteps, Antoine and Quentin continue to illuminate the village Bouzy, an extraordinary ‘terroir’ in the mountains of Reims. They pro-
Oak barrels A few kilometres north of Reims, in the north of the region, you will find the company ‘Tonnellerie de Champagne’, established by Jérôme Viard in 1998, which produces 1.000 barrels every year. The company, that also carries the name ‘Entreprise du patrimoine vivant’, takes over all of the steps in the production of the barrels. The company is the only barrel-production company in the region. It is experienced and accomplished in the production of Champagnes and also stands for regular technical innovations in the industry.
duce perfectly matured wines; a selection of finest champagne, aged in a deep, limestone cellar. Antoine is chairman of the organisation ‘Artisans de Champagne’, a dynamic viticulture cooperation, which stands for a passion, respect, and care for the wine growing business and campaigns for sustainable, massale selections. Massale selections safeguard the diversity and quality of the grapevines. If a vine has died or is diseased and has to be replaced, then a new vine is taken from substitute plants rather than purchased from a plant breeder. This process allows for the upkeep of high production standards, especially when it comes to very old grapevines. The selection from Craft & Compagnie also leads us to the exceptional and highly desired wines by Jérôme Prévost, who approaches the profession of wine growing as if it were poetry, and who produces creative and unique champagnes in his vineyard Closerie. A similar approach can be found in the wines of Frédéric Savart in Ecueil, near Reims, who cultivates 4 hectares of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This passionate wine grower is intensely attached to his soil and creates authentic wines – wines with a unique personality and a taste that takes us off the well-trodden path. The cultural heritage of the vineyard, and the accompanying industry with all of its many businesses that continue this heritage, form a chain of ambitious and dedicated experts who work, between tradition and innovation, to supply us with extraordinary champagnes.
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INSPIRATION
www.ikea.com
Bye-Bye Autumn sadness Say goodbye to the grey and sad tones often associated with the fall season. Indeed, the trend this year is to play with a mix of vibrant colours, metallic finishes and floral patterns. Despite the gloomy season approaching, tropical and safari trends remain a must. Be ingenious and dare to be creative! We invite you to use colourful cushions, blankets, curtains and wallpapers to give your home a modern yet warm look this Autumn. For you, KACHEN has selected some of the best products and brands that will make your home brighter.
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INSPIRATION
It’s not a mere armchair, but a true complement through which one can let go and relax in style or concentrate on work, away from the chaos. www.bross-italy.com
This sumptuous cushion with its slightly decadent, luxuriously soft and contemporary velvet cover will bring a smile to your face. A must-have for the www.audenza.com autumn season!
Its small width but large depth enables the Victor desk to fit everywhere in your home. Pair with the Gustave stool known for its refined and colorful design. Who said summer couldn’t end on a high note? www.hartodesign.fr
Thanks to its gold metal finish and its white striated glass, the Iwaki lamp is an essential when days start to get shorter and temperatures drop. www.maisonsdumonde.com 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 123
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INSPIRATION
www.laredoute.com
www.cultfurniture.com
www.iittala.com
www.audenza.com
www.charlestottenham.com
www.made.com
EXTRAVAGANCE When they tell you to be bold, it’s for a reason! Be imaginative and go for colourful designs.
www.iittala.com
www.maisonsdumonde.com
www.charlestottenham.com
www.donum.be
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BALANCE
DOES AUTUMN MAKE YOU HUNGRY?
When the day gets longer, the weather more uncomfortable and the desire to exercise regularly dwindles away, we experience more appetite in what seems an unfortunate paradox. Light summer salads are replaced with warm and filling dishes. We tend to put on a bit of weight between September and December; even before the arrival of the Christmas markets with calorie-heavy mulled wine and baked apples.
THE MAIN REASON FOR ALL OF THIS GLUTTONY IS THE ANIMAL WAKENING UP IN US There are fewer daylight hours in autumn and our animal instinct understands that winter is coming. A thousand years ago winter meant going hungry. In order to survive, many animals built up reserves. Since they cannot conserve food (apart from nuts, which squirrels hoard) animals that feel the greatest hunger build up the largest fat reserves (e.g. whales, bears…) and they have the best chance to survive the winter. This fat layer holds double the amount of calories per gram mass as does energy from carbohydrates (food/ sugar high in starches), i.e. 9 kcal/g in comparison to 4.1 kcal/g. In addition, fat binds itself less with water (less weight) than our glycogen reserves (a kind of sugar reserve in our body). This fat layer is found in the centre of our body, right around our internal organs, but also under our skin, and so it functions as insulation. This biopren (similar to neoprene from which divers’ suits are made) helped loose fewer calories through heat when we were hunters and gatherers and lived outdoors in every season, even in winter. So it used to make sense for us to feel hungrier and put on weight in order to fight for our survival. In the Darwinian sense, our ancestors who were not able to do so had fewer chances to survive and reproduce. Today, we do not need this survival gene. We put the heating on and the shelves of the supermarket are well stocked… But that is how it is, our bodies cannot change their behaviour so easily – it’s all saved in our DNA after all. And that was once crucial for our survival.
Dr. Marc Keipes Director ZithaGesondheetsZentrum www.gesondheetszentrum.lu/blog/
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Body and mind in balance
AYURVEDA
Warm porridge with stewed apple 1 person
15 minutes
• 128 g fine cereal flakes (oats, spelt) • 600 ml water • 1 pinch salt For the apple: • 1 tsp ghee • 1 apple • ½ tsp ground cinnamon • ½ tsp dried, ground ginger • agave syrup or honey for sweetening
1 Put the cereal flakes in a pot with the cold water, bring to the boil and simmer for 3-5 minutes, stirring continuously. 2 Wash and peel the apple and cut it into small pieces. Heat the ghee in a pan and sauté the apple, then add the cinnamon and ground ginger and mix with the steamed apple. 3 Place the cereal porridge in a small bowl and add the stewed apple. Season to taste with a little agave syrup or honey.
Recipes John Schlammes
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AYURVEDA
Indian Chai Serves 2
30 minutes
• 400 ml water • 2 slices fresh ginger • 1 cinnamon stick • 5 peppercorns • 5 cardamom capsules • 1 tsp cloves • 2 star anise • 2-3 tsp raw cane sugar • 200 ml milk or rice milk • 1 tbsp black tea or rooibos tea
RECIPES JOHN SCHLAMMES PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
1 Bring the spices to the boil in water and simmer for about 5 minutes. 2 Add milk or rice milk, black tea or rooibos tea and sugar and simmer again for 5 minutes. Drain and serve warm.
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AYURVEDA
Pumpkin from the oven Serves 2
10 minutes + 30-40 minutes cooking time
• 1 medium Hokkaido pumpkin For the marinade: • 5 tbsp olive oil • 1 tbsp agave syrup • 3 tbsp soy sauce • 1 tbsp lemon juice • 2 tbsp water • ½ tsp ground ginger • ½ tsp salt
1 Preheat oven to 180 °C. 2 Wash the pumpkin, quarter it with its skin, remove the seeds and cut into slices about 2 cm thick. 3 Place the marinade in a fireproof baking dish. Add the pumpkin slices and cover with marinade. 4 Place the pan in the oven and bake the pumpkin for 30 - 40 minutes. The pumpkin should be soft and slightly browned. Ayurveda products available on: www.ayurveda-johnschlammes.com
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BALANCE
An assurance for plant diversity
on our plates The fight against the extinction of 21 % of plant species concerns us all. 75 % of our food derives from five kinds of animals and twelve kinds of plants. The disappearance of plant varieties can have drastic consequences, for it is the diversity that provides important food resources as well as therapeutic molecules.
A short review Since 1981 the EU has prohibited farmers and gardeners to use seeds from their own cultivation for the production of vegetables. Since then, an official seed catalogue with between 6000 and 7000 vegetable varieties has existed. The multinational cooperations Monsanto, DuPont, and Dow Chemical have been able to establish themselves very quickly in the seed market. The dominance of these laboratories creates a huge market and generates the long-term monopolisation of said market, because countless hybrid plants cannot be reproduced. While it is possible to list one’s own seed varieties in the official catalogue, it is very difficult to do so and it costs around 6000 € to 15000 € per variety, which makes it a very cost heavy endeavour. Since small producers cannot afford such sums, the number of varieties is limited.
The opening of the market for forgotten varieties The market for seed varieties distinguishes between seed ‘from the farm’ (industrial production) and from the ‘smallholder’ (own production). The latter comes directly from the harvest of the farmers who collect the seeds from their own plants and re-use them. In contrast, the seeds from ‘the farm’ are bought from a company that produces seeds. A new delegation passed by the European Parliament allows and enables organic producers to use seed from their own production and to give it away or to sell it without having to enter it into the seed catalogue. This is an incredible chance to give new life to those local varieties, which have all but been forgotten and to expand the range on our plates. For years, the monopoly of the cooperations concentrated on those varieties that were the most profitable without considering the consequences of the disappearance of countless varieties of beans, tomatoes, or other nutritious and delicious vegetable varieties. Collectives were founded with the goal to grow local vegetable varieties that thrived in native
climactic conditions, thereby considering regional biodiversity. In contrast to hybrid varieties the seed from smallholders can develop through cross-breeding and adaptation to the soil, thereby ensuring additional value in taste and further allowing for a whole new creativity in the kitchen. As stated, 75 % of our food comes from only five kinds of animals and twelve kinds of plants.
While there’s a catch, there’s also a future! France has thwarted the coming into effect of the abovementioned regulation of the seed market in 2021. The French constitutional court has banned the sale of seeds of smallholders with the censorship of 23 articles out of 98. Since the consumption of meat is declining and consumers are better informed, we have to stand up against a new monopolisation of the production and the seed market. The opening of commercialisation raises the hope that the diversity of heritage vegetable varieties can grow and reestablish themselves. Seed banks could help to avoid the disappearance of this diversity. The most meaningful collection exists in Norway and holds 980 000 samples. Established in 2008 in Svalbard, this worldwide seed vault is also called the ‘Noah’s Ark of Plants’. A hopeful message …
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RECIPE & PHOTO SARA & SVEN
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MEAT FREE MONDAY
ABOUT BEETROOTS Autumn vegetable pie
(vegan, made without lactose, gluten, egg, nut, or refined sugar) For Sarah and Sven cakes don‘t always have to be sweet desserts. They like hearty variations just as much. For the main course, they have come up with a vegetable cake with a regional, seasonal topping - a really tasty eye-catcher. For the cake, use a regular vegetable peeler to cut the vegetables into thin strips. To make it look more beautiful cut the strips to approximately the same width. Sarah and Sven always buy their vegetables at the weekly market, so they can be sure that their products are always fresh and they are supporting the regional farmers. 1 pie
60 minutes, including 30 minutes cooking time
• 120 g flour • 40 g vegan butter • 200 ml water • a pinch of salt • 1 pumpkin (Hokkaido, Butternut squash...) • sweet potato, kale, beetroot, leek (enough to cover the cake), spinach leaves • oil • salt and pepper • some balsamic vinegar (as desired) 1 Preheat the oven to 180 °. Grease a cake tin. 2 Dice the pumpkin and boil in hot water for 5 minutes, drain the water and mash the pumpkin into puree, then season to taste. 3 To prepare the pastry, combine flour, butter, water, and salt and knead well. Roll out the dough and press into the mold (push up the sides). Spread the pumpkin purée evenly onto the cake base. 4 Peel the vegetables and cut into thin strips. To make the rose decorations, roll up the beetroot and sweet potato strips and add them to the pumpkin purée as desired. Fill the gaps between the roses with spinach, kale, and leek. Drizzle with oil and season with salt and pepper. 5 Bake the vegetable cake at 180 ° for 30 minutes. Drizzle some balsamic vinegar over the pie and serve warm.
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COOKING WITH BERTRAND
GINGER
O
riginally from India ginger is a perennial plant with a tubercular root. It is particularly cultivated for its irregular and rough rhizome, which has many beneficial effects on health. Indeed, the virtues of ginger are numerous... A study has shown that it contains about forty antioxidant compounds that protect the body’s cells from damage caused by free radicals. A few studies also attest to its beneficial effects on arthritis-related pain. Other research has shown its positive effect on maintaining the balance of intestinal flora and fat digestion. It can also have the ability to reduce nausea and vomiting... The list is long but it would be a shame to forget that, in the kitchen, it can also delight our taste buds. CONSERVATION Keep your ginger on a shelf in the refrigerator and not in the vegetable drawer, as that is too humid and may promote the development of mould. Keep for two to three weeks. You can also keep ginger in a store cupboard or pantry, as you would onions or potatoes.
TO MAKE A VINAIGRETTE
TO MAKE AN INFUSION
• 5 tbsp of local organic linseed oil • 2 tsp chopped chives • 1 tbsp blackcurrant mustard (available at Bertrand’s) • 5 cm grated fresh ginger • 1 organic orange, juice + zest • s alt with spices (available at Bertrand’s) and pepper
• 1 tsp grated ginger • 1 tbsp of organic honey • ½ organic lemon, juice Combine ingredients and add simmering Rosport water (50 cl), infuse for 15 minutes and drink warm or store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
GOOD TO KNOW To make an exotic dish in no time at all, grate the ginger over freshly cooked Thai rice, add salted butter, fresh tarragon, lightly crushed peanuts, and a round of black pepper!
HEALTHY EATING WITH L‘ATELIER DE CUISINE BERTRAND In each issue, the chef, Bertrand Duchamps, creator of Bertrand‘s Cooking Workshop, offers us a vegetarian recipe. French of Breton origin, he willingly claims his roots as they have marked his cuisine and his search for authentic, tasty and natural products.
RECIPES BERTRAND DUCHAMPS PHOTOS ANNE LOMMEL
an exquisite boost!
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FOR EVEN MORE RECIPES INFORMATION INSPIRATION
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TEXT BARBARA FISCHER-FÜRWENTSCHES PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSKAS
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LUXEMBOURG
Nordic Walking a gentle yet powerful activity for your health
Turns out, the magic formula for fitness, health, and fun in nature exists: it’s called Nordic walking! A simpler, gentler, more effective, and cheaper way to train your whole body hardly exists. And all that without an age limit.
N
ordic walking was invented by two Finnish sports students at the end of the 90s who were working on the improvement of summer training for cross-country skiing as part of their final year project. Indeed, on first glance, it looks like cross-country skiing but without the snow. And yet Nordic walking is more like walking with ski sticks. With the correct technique it is an ideal and jointfriendly whole-body workout. Today, this sport has spread across the entire world.
stretches your hips and strengthens your back, shoulder, legs, and your glutes. It is the ideal balance – especially for people who sit a lot. Nordic walking is gentler on your joints than running and more effective than going for a walk. It stimulates your heart, circulation, and metabolism, helps to build stamina and strengthens all your body muscles. ‘In those two sticks you basically have a whole fitness studio with you,’ explains Jutta Kanstein. ‘Exercises for strength and flexibility are easily built into your round.’
How Nordic walking impacts the body
What do you need for Nordic walking?
Through the use of sticks your arms and shoulders are active in your movements, your upper body is straight and your back muscles are engaged. ‘It’s not about speed but the intensity of the movement,’ says Jutta Kanstein, trained Nordic walking instructor. Nordic walking
The equipment is minimal. Besides motivation you only need normal running or sports shoes, weather-appropriate clothing and the Nordic walking sticks. These have special loops, which spread the pressure over your entire hand. The stick’s function is to spare 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 137
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your joints. The important thing is to get the stick length right. As a rule of thumb: take your height x 0.66. ‘We suggest trying different stick lengths. Many instructors can also give you different lengths to try,’ says Jutta Kanstein. Sticks made from carbon or glass fibre are recommended for their lightness.
Where can I try Nordic walking? Generally, you can try Nordic walking anywhere in nature, ideally on reasonably flat paths. In Luxembourg you’ll find a total of 18 sign-posted Nordic walking paths with different levels of difficulty: blue (short with little gradient), red (medium), and black (long and challenging). One can, of course, explore the beautiful paths without
Nordic walking sticks. Find all the information at www.visitluxembourg. com/de/erleben/natur-ausfluge/wandern-luxemburg/nordic-walking
For whom is Nordic walking suitable? Generally for everyone, whether young or old, rather unsporty or highly trained. Nordic walking is one of the best exercise concepts in fresh air, and can be practised in all seasons. Nordic walking is even employed in post-rehabilitation support, or pre-emptively: as postrehabilitation support in heart cases, for orthopaedic complaints, arthrosis, or for targeted training to combat overweight issues. If you are in doubt, speak to your doctor. For sporty and keen golfers or skiers it is the ideal, alternative winter training.
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LUXEMBOURG
Nordic walking world cup 2019 in Niederanven The oldest Nordic walking club Luxembourg’s – its seat in Niederanven – celebrates its 20th anniversary this year with a very special event: from October 4th – 6th the annual, international Nordic walking cup will take place in Luxembourg for the first time. ‘We will offer a wide-ranging programme surrounding the topic of Nordic walking for ambitious athletes or interested people,’ says Jutta Kanstein, one of the organisers. ‘The competition itself will be organised by the worldwide Nordic walking organisation ONWF (www.onwf.org). The programme will offer taster sessions as well as presentations on topics surrounding the activity by sport medicine specialists. The focus is on inclusion as well as healthy eating.’ A good opportunity for all who might be interested in Nordic walking – from an athletic viewpoint or a popular perspective. For more information and to register, go to www.nordicwalking.lu/NW. More information on further Nordic walking clubs in Luxembourg can be found at www.nordic-walking.lu
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EVENTS
Red Rock © Pierre Pauquay
© Alfonso Salgueiro / Nils Frahm
© Danielle Thille
© Motor Show
Autumn in Luxembourg
Wor Emol E Kanonéier L‘artillerie au Luxembourg
www.m3e.public.lu 26.06.2019 > 22.02.2020
Leopard Ultratrail du Mullerthal
www.utml.lu 14.09.2019
Oldtimerday Luxembourg
www.oldtimerday.lu 21-22.09.2019 ING Route du Vin
www.ingrouteduvin.lu 29.09.2019 Beat The Blast Festival
www.atelier.lu 04.10.2019
Salon des Douceurs
https://thestorm.lu 5-6.10.2019
Veiner Nëssmoort - Nut market
www.vianden-info.lu 06.10.2019
Nils Frahm
Sonic Visions Music Festival
Nuit des Musées
International Motor Show
Red Rock Challenge
Marc Lavoine
Home Expo
Luxembourg Light Festival
www.philharmonie.lu 08.10.2019 http://museumsmile.lu 12.10.2019 www.rr-challenge.lu 12-13.10.2019
www.homeandlivingexpo.lu 12.10 > 20.10.2019 Top Kids – The Kids Fair
http://www.topkids.lu 26-27.10.2019
https://sonicvisions.lu 15-16.10.2019
www.euro-racing-show.com 15.11 > 17.11.2019 www.casino2000.lu 21.11.2019 www.luxembourg-city.com 14-16.12.2019 Christmas Markets
www.winterlights.lu 22.11. > 24.12.2019
Luxembourg Art Week
www.luxembourgartweek.lu 8.11 > 10.11.2019 Flea Market
www.flohmarkt-luxemburg.com 9-10.11.2019
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OP
679 KM
CUASSO AL MONTE
© ORT MPSL / THOMAS BICHLER
ITALIEN
SCHÉISSENDËMPEL MËLLERDALL
LËTZEBUERG
VAKANZ DOHEEM VISITLUXEMBOURG.LU
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CHRONICLE
Fancy a sip?
A
ll over the world people have different habits. All over the world people have different ways of life. Good thing too, if only because travel would quickly become boring otherwise. One of these habits is the frequent carrying of a thermos flask, something you might see all over the world, but perhaps especially in South America. But this one particular flask contains a very specific drink. The person carrying this thermos often also carries a mug with a straw – frequently the colour of silver. One might imagine having both hands occupied could be quite difficult in our selfie-obsessed times. The straw is called bombilla, and the drink, which seems so delicious one must carry it around all day, is called Mate. When we were in Paraguay to see the old trails of the Jesuit missions, we encountered a person with a love for Mate. Arnaldo was our driver for the day and, unfortunately for us, he drove determinedly past all of the ruins that we had planned to see. Even when we showed him the places on the map and then gesticulated wildly and perhaps even raised our voices a bit: would he not stop? But he would not. He did not seem willing to answer our queries either. That would have been difficult for him anyway, since he constantly had the straw of his drink between his lips. Luckily for us, his other hand was not holding the thermos flask – instead he had it gripped between his legs – so he could securely steer our vehicle. While Arnaldo never found any of the missions we wanted to see (perhaps he had other reasons too), we
did make acquaintance with every single petrol station and service stop on the way, so that he could top up the hot water needed for his tea. This, our first and unfortunate meeting with a Mate tea drinker, was most certainly an unusual one. We have found that the consumers of this drink are exceptionally friendly and generous. Whether in the amusement quarter La Boca in Buenos Aires, in the market of the Paraguayan capital Asunción or on an Estancia in the Uruguayan pampas. Everywhere we have found strangers offer us a sip of their Mate drink – served, naturally, with a bombilla. People who are susceptible to cold sores should perhaps refuse this nice gesture. For everyone else, you can be assured that this is the way to wonderful friendships. Everywhere on earth. In our case, on a beach in Northern Spain. We (point to the Mate cup and thermos flask): ‘Paraguay?’ Answer: ‘No, Argentina.’ A smile and the offering of the cup: fancy a sip? We did, and are still in contact today. The cold sore was definitely worth it.
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KACHEN ON TOUR
A culinary weekend in Lyon with Voyages Emile Weber and KACHEN As already announced in our summer edition, the KACHEN & VOYAGES EMILE WEBER reader‘s trip to Lyon was on the program in August. After a pleasant bus ride via Dijon to Lyon a group of 9 enjoyable KACHEN-readers were invited to stay at the five-star Hotel Le Royal Lyon MGallery by Sofitel at Place Bellecour in the heart of Lyon. The next morning the first stop was at the famous market halls „Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse“, where a tour with tasting of well-known products such as La Mère Richard (cheese) and Charcuterie Bobosse (fine sausages) was on the programme under expert guidance. In the evening another highlight: Dinner in one of Paul Bocuse‘s brasseries, the Fond Rose. The menu and wines did not disappoint and fully met the high expectations of the participants.
TEXT & PHOTOS BIBI WINTERSDORF
The second day was the highlight of the trip. Even if the „Pope of French cuisine“ is no longer with us, a dinner in his 3-star restaurant „Auberge du Pont de Collonges“ is a special experience. The reception was very warm and Maître d‘Hôtel Jean-Philippe Merlin took the opportunity to personally guide the visitors from Luxembourg through the kitchen and wine cellar. Chef Gilles Reinhardt was even available for a souvenir photo! Of course, the culinary expectations were more than exceeded and everyone agreed that they would definitely return. Next time hopefully you will be there too!
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Unsere I nklusi v-Leistu ngen: • Fahrt im „F irs
CALLCENTER (+352) 35 65 75 - 1 • www.emile-weber.lu
Erstklassige Busreisen: Kultur, Erlebnis und kulinarische Highlights!
t Class“-Reise bus: Komfort • Haustürabh und Sicherhe olung it • Frühstück sowie Mittag es sen auf der Hi • Erlesene Ho n- & Rückreise tels der geho benen Mittel • Permanente klasse Reisebegleitu ng ab/bis Lu • Lokale Frem xemburg denführer be i Stadtbesich • Sorgfältig tigungen ausgesuc e Ausflüg|e143 | KACHEN • Landestypi2019 / 3 ht sche Kulinar ik • Reise- und Gepäckversich erung 29/08/2019 15:12
Marrakech
WITH
Treasures of the Ochre City
Marrakech – the name alone sounds irresistible, almost as if it is a call in itself to travel far away and into the sun and to leave the cold and wet autumn and winter in Europe behind. With 280 days of sun a year the city profits from a mild climate. Even in winter there are few rainy days every month and the temperature during the day is around 20 °C. However, at night and in the early hours of the morning it can get quite cool in winter, so one should always be prepared and pack a jacket. Because of its shining red and orange walls Marrakesh is called the ‘ochre city’ or also the ‘red city’. The sun transforms buildings into a rainbow of colours – from light pink at the crack of dawn to a wan red in the light of the sinking sun. Marrakesh, the city that fascinates us with its thousand years of history, is never seen in the same light… Founded in 1071 by the ruler of the Almoravids, Abu Bakr ibn Umar, the city quickly became a junction and meeting point for the populations of the neighbouring areas. Soon a curtain wall was erected around the city in order to protect it from invasions. The religious and cultural metropolis grew over the centuries ever larger and expanded its regional influence. Magnificent palaces were built. An elaborate system for the transportation of drinking water (Quanat) was installed as early as the 12th century in order to water the gardens and palm trees. Under the influence of the various ruling dynasties diverse architectural styles followed one another: Cordoba (stylised domes, arches with multiple membranes), Hispano-Moresque style, Arabian-Andalusian style…
The old town is the starting point for any visit. You enter one of the many gates (bab), which, over time, have been inserted into the wall of this lively city. The colourful and historic old town is best discovered on foot. Keep your eyes open and make sure to look all around you so you don’t miss the architectural details in the ornamentation, the frescoes, and the images. Follow the wind through the tangle of small alleys, souks, and courtyards with caravans.
TEXT MARTINE CARRET
The eight to ten meter high wall, which runs around the 700-hectare large historical town centre, Medina, is nineteen kilometres long.
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LUXAIR TOURS
When your legs begin to feel tired, ask for the way to the central market square Djemaa el Fna. This enormous square is a lively setting and also, like the entire town centre, part of the intangible UNESCO world heritage. Actors, street traders, street artists, water carriers, fire eaters, henna tattoo artists, monkey trainers, snake charmers, and fortune tellers offers their services in a colourful and loud atmosphere. In order to get away from the mass of people make your way in the direction of the minarets of the Koutoubia mosque (that boasts a height of 77 meters). The imposing T-form structure dates back to the 12th century and is composed of seventeen naves carried on white columns. The interior prayer area is not accessible to visitors but the gardens are open to visit. The Koubba el-Baadiyn, the grave and last testament of the Almoravid dynasty, the remains of the el-Badi palace, and the graves of the Saadier (16th century) are well worth a visit. The site, discovered in 1917, is constantly restored. The large and grand mausoleum consists of three halls. The ‘Hall of the Twelve Pillars’ in the middle boasts a dome of delicately carved cedar wood,
propped up in every corner by three pillars of Carrara marble. Pay a visit to the well of the el-Mouassine mosque and the mosque of the ‘Golden Apples’. The palace Dar Il Bacha holds the museum ‘Confluences’ and shows alternating exhibitions, which are as fascinating as the Andalusian architecture of the building itself. You will also find carpet- or ceramic-museums. Beyond the Medina you can go for a walk in the Menara olive grove or in the Majorelle garden with its cobalt blue art deco villa. This botanical garden belonged to Yves Saint-Laurent, by the way. A museum, which opened in 2017, dedicates itself to the French fashion designer. In the ‘City of the 7 Saints’ the goingson continue through the day and into the night. Cultural sights, leisurely walks in the various quarters with their souks (metal ware, leather goods, paintings, spices…) and relaxing breaks (spas, steam baths, pools…) ensure it’s never boring. Situated on the foothill of the Atlas mountains Marrakesh is further a central starting point for excursions to the Mediterranean and to the desert with its green oases, reachable for a day trip excursion.
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LUXAIR TOURS
RESTAURANTS :
➊
© Villa des Orangers
• VILLA DES ORANGERS ➊ Reserve for a gastronomic dinner www.villadesorangers.com • DAR ZELLIJ ➋ For a dinner in a Riad from the 17th century – like a palace from One Thousand and One Nights https://marrakech-riads.com/restaurant-dar-zellij/ ➋
© Dar Zellij Dar Zellij
• LA CANTINE DES GAZELLES Local produce in the Djemaa el Fna square FOR A SMALL BREAK: • BAR MENZEH In the wonderful luxury hotel La Mamounia Ice cream and exquisite pastries • SKY LOUNGE Hotel Pearl (Hivernage quarter)
➌
© The Baths of Alhambra
For a cocktail in the evening on the roof top with a great view of the Atlas mountains and the city • THE BATHS OF ALHAMBRA ➌ For a moment of relaxation alone or for two. A traditional steam bath with black soap peeling, clay compress, and massages.
WIN GEWINNEN Win 1 week for 2 adults in the 5 star CLUB AGDAL MEDINA, standard double room, all-inclusive, flight from Luxembourg to Marrakech (return) inclusive with LuxairTours.
The hotel is situated in Agdal, the new tourist zone of Marrakech, near the Agdal and Menara Gardens. It offers a unique panoramic view, overlooking the High Atlas and the Jbilat Hills. Surrounded by an olive grove, the hotel, composed of 9 riads, is located in the heart of an exceptional landscape. The magical surroundings of the hotel offer a view of centuries-old olive trees and a breath-taking outlook onto the Atlas Mountains.
The 3 different bars offer chill-out areas for every taste: be it in the disco bar, the lounge bar, or the snack bar. The hotel‘s main restaurant, ‘L‘Atlas’, also offers not only delicious food but also entertains with show cooking. Adjacent to the hotel you’ll find a tennis court, beach volleyball and basketball courts as well as a mini football pitch and 3 swimming pools. The hotel is about 4 km away from the centre of Marrakech and can be accessed easily by free shuttle buses.
To enter, answer the following question: What other name is given to Marrakech? Send your answer with your name and address and the reference MARRAKECH by e-mail to gewinnen@kachen.lu Your journey must take place before 08.10.2020 - Flight tickets and accommodation are subject to availability. Closing date is 31.10.2019 146 | KACHEN | 3 / 2019
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90428-LU
WINTER HOLIDAYS ON THE HORIZON!
NEW THIS WINTER
MINITRIPS TO
MARRAKESH BOOK NOW IN YOUR TRAVEL AGENCY OR ON LUXAIRTOURS.LU 2019 / 3 | KACHEN | 147
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Nancy The capital city of the Dukes of Lorraine N
ancy is situated in the French Grand Est region, which is known for its historic and cultural heritage, for its spirited characters and its joie de vivre. The capital city of the Dukes of Lorraine possesses a certain way of life, which is safeguarded with a passion, even today. From the Place Stanislas to the countless Art Noveau buildings: the cultural heritage of the so-called ‘most Italian city in the East of France’ is astonishing, impressive, and definitely worth seeing.
While the city is best known for its historical heritage it offers many other places of artistic value; for example, the multifaceted street-art, which you can see on your walks through the city. Local, national, and international artists are regularly asked to embroider the walls and walkways of the city and so this urban art is spreading further and further through the streets of Nancy. The discovery of this urban art can be quite accidental while walking through the city or you might – best if you’re wearing trainers – take a unique street-art-tour!
© Régine Datin
TEXT YANNICK BURROWS
The Place Stanislas is a UNESCO world heritage site. Under the reign of Duke Stanislaus of Lorraine, which lasted from 1736 to 1766, the city blossomed. Thanks to Ludwig XV’s father-in-law and former King of Poland, Nancy now boasts the Place Stanislas – a piece of 18th-century UNESCO world heritage architecture – as well as countless religious buildings such as the church Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours, where Stanislas is buried. The Place is the pride of the inhabitants and is widely admired by visitors, not only because it is an attractive square but because it is also a wonderful place to meet people and exchange views. Right by the Place Stanislas is the smaller and the quieter Place d’Alliance and the Place de la Carrière. The latter was originally used for the practising with lances and for tournaments, which is why it carries the name Carrière, which stands for riding place. A walk through the centre of Nancy offers so many stories and sightseeing opportunities!
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© Ville de nancy
© Régine Datin
CFL
© Régine Datin
Don’t miss the celebration of Saint Nicholas! Two highlights in the winter calendar of the French Grand Est region are the Christmas market in Strasburg and the celebration of Saint Nicholas in Nancy. The latter is a tradition in Lorraine, celebrated most elaborately and cheerfully in Nancy. From the end of November to the beginning of January the city is bathed in a thousand lights and the huts of the Christmas market waft the scent of cinnamon and gingerbread into the air. On the first weekend of December, the Nicholas weekend, a traditional procession takes place: a legendary, magical event, which attracts thousands of visitors yearly. And don’t miss the winter performance of the legend of Saint Nicholas, which is projected onto the facades of the Place Stanislas several times every evening: an original way to view the many curiosities of the city in the French Grand Est region.
© Régine Datin
The food culture of Lorraine: hearty and sweet The many sweet delicacies from Nancy delight even the biggest foodies. For you will find almost twenty listed sweet dishes, designations of origin, and registered brands. This unique cultural heritage stems from a long culinary tradition. One of the main players was Stanislas, alongside the countless anonymous cooks, nuns, confectioners, and pastry cooks. Their motivation: the search for the most exquisite taste,
In cooperation with
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CFL
© Régine Datin
© Régine Datin
the continuation of their techniques, and the gentle manufacture of their products. This sweet cultural heritage, and the diligent craftspeople who uphold it, should not be missed on a visit to Nancy. Thus, you will find macarons and bergamotes, craquelines and babas, duchesses and specialities made from Mirabelle plums, pralines and gingerbread.
Every confectionary and every pastry has its own history in connection with the local traditions and historical figures.
© Ville de Nancy
Nancy does not only offer a sweet cultural heritage but also many different local beers and hearty favourites, such as Pâté Lorrain, as well as countless kinds of sandwich and types of cheese. The best known of these is the quiche. A delicacy prepared with every trick in the book that melts in the mouth – a harmony of mild cream and substantial bacon. Be aware that the quiche Lorraine does not contain cheese! The proximity of Luxembourg makes of Nancy a popular travel hotspot for a quick weekend away full of experiences of both historic and culinary value – a travel through time.
PARTICIPATE AND WIN The four-star Grand Hotel de la Reine is located in the heart of Nancy on the beautiful Place Stanislas. In the French style of the 18th century, the building is a UNESCO world heritage site. Not only the architecture but also the enchanting reading room and the elegant bar invite guests to dream and enjoy. The in-house restaurant, Le Louis, offers an elegant ambience of timeless French classicism. The menu is revised on a weekly basis to ensure that local and seasonal products are always well-presented.
Win a trip for 2 people to NANCY* including a train ride from Luxembourg and 1 overnight stay in a double room at the 4-star Grand Hotel de la Reine, including breakfast and dinner in the restaurant Le Louis.
Just answer the following question: Who will be particularly honoured in Nancy in December? Send the correct answer with the keyword ‘Nancy’ to gewinnen@kachen.lu The closing date for entries is 31.10.2019 *The gift voucher is valid from the date of issue until 31.12.2019, subject to availability.
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ANN Apps
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The Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps La Table d’Edouard
The Concept La Table d’Edouard welcomes you in the heart of the legendary Circuit de SpaFrancorchamps racetrack, a genuinely aweinspiring setting. Take a moment to discover the delicious and colourful cuisine – time flies in the warm ambience designed by Margaux. Fabian, the passionate chef, invites you to a unique taste experience. You won’t find a traditional menu here, instead a surprise menu with three or four courses is served; inspired by the magnificent natural landscape that surrounds the racetrack. Depending on the season and the availability of fresh market products, Fabian creates delicate, refined recipes full that will take you far beyond the mystic Ardennes. An unusual place, situated at the most enchanting of racetracks. Seats up to 12 people, by reservation only: info@latablededouard.be 3-course menu: 65 € per person 4-course menu: 80 € per person Drinks included
The kitchen Consistent in every respect Fabian Mossay pays particular attention to the choice of seasonal products, sourced from local cultivation and in respect for the environment. In his constant search for new ideas and techniques, he has studied, among other things, the healthy cuisine of Michel Guérard©. This course has reinforced his passion for a balanced cuisine. This is an approach that Fabian and his team also take to their catering service, as the official partner of the Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps. With 20 years of on-site experience, the catering team knows all the details of the installations: access points, areas, locations, restrictions. It can offer you a tailor-made service to create an exceptional event and meet all your expectations in terms of personalization.
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LUXEMBOURG’S ONLY TRAVEL MAGAZINE
SCH DEUT ISCH S Ö Z FRAN AND ALLEM AIS Ç FRAN
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DRINKS
VEGETARIAN 69 Red beetroot and raspberry smoothies
129 Indian Chai
134 Ginger infusion
31 Carrot & ginger soup
32 Cauliflower and mature cheddar soup with cheesy toasts
35 Sweet potato soup with ginger and chia seeds
37 Roasted garlic & leek soup with pan-fried sage leaves
56 Linguine aglio, olio e peperoncino
75 Baked turnips in salt crust
76 Rave party
77 Cauliflower risotto
78 White roots spaghetti
128 Warm porridge with stewed apple
MEAT 38 Avocado, shrimp, and citrus sala
94 Trout à la Meunière
99 Red mullet fillets with pesto, tomatoes, pickled fennel and flavoured broth
14 Crisp roast duck with baby beetroot and chèvre salad
BAKING & DESSERTS 30 Four-Bean and tomato soup
34 Chorizo and chickpea soup with avocado
39 Duck breast with honey and thyme sauce
93 Burger “Terroir” with local beef
44 Chestnut muffins
46 Carrot Cake by Yves Jehanne
48 Apple Cider Caramels
58 Parfait with pumpkin seed oil and pumpkin seed brittle
61 Caramelized poached pears in a pan (vegan)
73 Beetroot cake with walnuts (vegetarian)
79 The pumpkin is flirting with the tatin
87 Pumpkin pie with an oat crust
88 Île flottante
90 The best apple pie
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13 Vine tomatoes with ricotta and basil foam
23 Onionsoup with Gruyère AOP
24 Freekeh with aubergine, sweet potatoes and zucchini served with Gruyère AOP reserve crisps
27 Roasted tomato, red lentil and cumin soup
30 Miso soup with mushrooms
57 Celery soup with walnut oil
63 Autumn salad with pear and walnuts
64 Spelt noodles with balsamic pears, gorgonzola, walnuts, and cashew nuts
70 Cold beetroot soup
71 Beetroot hummus with grilled bread (vegan)
28 Thai butternut and prawn soup
33 Cream of leek and fennel soup with smoked haddock
FISH & SEAFOOD 134 Ginger vinaigrette
22 Triple-storey sandwich with Gruyère PDO Switzerland
25 Puff pastry boats with ceps, bacon, and Gruyère AOP Switzerland
26 Chicken, noodle and sweetcorn soup WP
130 Pumpkin from the oven
16 Creamed ricotta cheesecake with mixed berry compote
43 Fast chestnut pralines
43 Chestnut and chocolate spread
62 Oat porridge with caramel pears, pecan nuts, and vanilla yoghurt
66 Pancakes with quark, pears, and icing sugar
72 Beetroot pie with raspberries (vegetarian)
Edition Luxe Taste & Style Publishing Sàrl, 4a, rue de Consdorf L- 6230 Bech Tel. (+352) 28 99 011 1 Publisher Bibi Wintersdorf Editor-in-chief Bibi Wintersdorf Head editor Patricia Sciotti Editors Liz Mikos, Yannick Burrows Translator & copy-editor Cara Bland Art Director Philippe Saliba Graphic Designer Enia Haeck Sales Jill Sterba Printer Weprint Editorial Dept. redaktion@kachen.lu Advertising sales@kachen.lu Contests gewinnen@kachen.lu © Luxe Taste & Style Publishing - ISSN 977-2535-8820-09
132 Autumn vegetable pie
The publication accepts no liability for unsolicited articles, photos and drawings. Reproduction, inclusion in online services or the Internet, or duplication onto data carriers such as CD-ROM etc. shall only be permitted with prior written consent from the publisher. All rights reserved. All information has been carefully reviewed. We accept no liability for the accuracy of information included.
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5 YEARS KACHEN H A P P Y B I R T H D AY ! Our winter edition will be published on 28 NOVEMBER
Look forward to a festive anniversary issue full of wonderful recipes, ideas, suggestions and surprises.
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Born in Switzerland in 1115.
From generation to generation. “Being a journalist is an exciting job. It’s a challenge, but one that I am very passionate about.” Cordula Schnuer, Luxembourg Times
In a world that is constantly reinventing itself, Le Gruyère AOP is your guarantee of an age-old, artisanal recipe, made with skills and expertise that are passed down through the generations. To create a taste experience like no other.
Cheeses from Switzerland. Switzerland. Naturally.
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KACHEN LUXEMBOURG’S
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FOOD
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A Taste of Luxembourg
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10 quick soups The perfect cheese board
SEASONAL Beets, pears
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