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LUXEMBOURG’S FOOD & LIFEST YLE MAGA ZINE
K ACHEN TURNS 10
A DECADE OF LUXEMBOURGISH ART OF LIVING
CHEF PORTRAIT
ILARIO MOSCONI: A CULINARY MAESTRO
BUSINESS
H O S P I TA L I T Y INDUS TRY: WORKERS D E S P E R AT E LY NEEDED
13 € LU X E M B O U R G EUROPE: 14,50 € WORLD: 18,40 €
‘Freshly ground, not capsuled.’
Enjoy like Roger Federer: for example with the J8 twin, with two grinders for two different coffee varieties. Roger Federer, Swiss tennis icon and JURA brand ambassador since 2006
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EDITORIAL
10 YE ARS OF K ACHEN
A DEC A DE OF LU X EM BOU RGISH A RT OF LI V ING I
t is with great excitement that we present to you the 40th issue of KACHEN – a milestone marking a decade of inspiration and discovery. What began as a vision ten years ago has blossomed into a fascinating journey through the rich tapestry of our nation. This journey has been far from a walk in the park. We’ve experienced highs and lows, but our compass has always pointed towards quality. As an independent publisher, without any external support, we’ve proven that passion and dedication can move mountains. From the outset, KACHEN was more than just a culinary magazine. We’ve always sought to capture and celebrate the essence of Luxembourg’s savoirvivre. Over the years, we’ve continuously expanded and refined our range of topics. Today, we offer you a comprehensive picture of what makes Luxembourg unique: from gastronomy and local producers to art, culture, sustainability and innovation. KACHEN has become a vibrant mirror of a modern, diverse Luxembourg, reflecting all the beauty and goodness our region has to offer. My deepest gratitude goes to our long-standing partners, who have believed in us from the beginning. Every single team member, whether full-time or freelance, has enriched KACHEN with their unique touch and contributed to our constant evolution. Above all, I want to thank you, our loyal readers and subscribers, in Luxembourg and far beyond. Many of you have been with us since our very first issue – your support is the heartbeat of KACHEN.
BIBI WINTERSDORF P U B L I S H E R & E D I TO R- I N - C H I E F
It fills me with a great sense of accomplishment to see how my personal vision has grown into something so wonderful. If I had one wish, it would be for this living dream to never end. I hope that in the future, we’ll continue to find people as passionate and committed as we are to carry this legacy forward. At the same time, I hope that you, our valued readers, will continue to accompany us on this journey. KACHEN thrives on our shared enthusiasm for the diversity and richness of life in Luxembourg. Only together can we lead this unique magazine into an inspiring future and continue to celebrate all that is beautiful and good about our country. Speaking of excellence, for this special issue, we’ve invited some of our country’s Michelin-starred chefs to create unique recipes (including Louis Linster, Roberto Fani, to name a few). This is your chance, dear readers, to elevate your dinner parties. Within these pages, you’ll also delve into the history of Maestro Mosconi, step inside Camille and Julien’s villa for a glimpse of their interior design, uncover the closely guarded secrets of the ‘Green Fairy’ – better known as absinthe – and stroll through the streets of Durbuy, Belgium’s gourmet capital. We hope you’ll savour every page of this anniversary issue as much as we’ve enjoyed putting it together. KACHEN is more than a magazine – it’s a community of epicures, explorers and all who love life. Let’s shape the next ten years and beyond together, with the same excitement that we started out with. Here’s to many more inspiring moments with you!
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IN THIS ISSUE
MAGA ZINE 6
R E S TAU R A N T & S H O P N E W S
8
TA S T Y B OX
9
PRODUC T NEWS
10
NEWS
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BOOKS
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R EC I P E D I R EC TO RY
FOOD 59
SEASONAL MENU LOWC A R B LU N C H
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QUICK & EASY AU T U M N M O O D !
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C O LU M N – Z E LT ’ S WO R L D R E A L LY ? !
LËTZEBUERG
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F E AT U R E – C H E E S E R EC I P E S BY B ER T R A N D D U C H A M P S
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M A D E I N LU X E M B O U R G F E I ER B O U N
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G LU T E N - F R E E
B O U R B O N VA N I L L A M AC A R O O N S 16
T Y P I C A L LY LU X E M B O U R G I S H
BY C A R O L I N E E S C H & VA L ÉR I A N P R A D E
PA S C H T É I T – B O U C H ÉE À L A R E I N E 90 18
G R A N N Y ’ S R EC I P E
FA M I LY R EC I P E S E A S Y M E A L P R EP
W I L D T U R B OT W I T H C AV I A R B U T T ER BY K AT EL L G U I L LO U
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AU T U M N M E N U L E T ’ S ‘ C H A L E T ’, S H A L L W E ?
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CHILDHOOD MEMORIES C AU L I F LOW ER & EG G S I N B ÉC H A M EL S AU C E
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LU X E M B O U R G I S H C L A S S I C S
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R EG I O N A L & S E A S O N A L
S E A S O N A L V EG G I E C EL ERY
P OAC H ED C H I C K EN B R E A S T BY C A R LO S AU B ER 24
K N OW L E D G E B I T E S V I N EGA R A S A N A P ER I T I F
BY LO U I S L I N S T ER
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SEASONAL FRUIT M I R A B EL L E P LU M S
V EN I S O N C A R PAC C I O L I K E A G R AV L A X BY F R ÉD ÉR I C V U I L L E M I N 118 26
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C O F F E & H A Z EL N U T C A K E
‘ S TO F F I ’ W I T H O N I O N S & C H I V E S BY R AC H EL R A M E AU
BY A L E S S A N D R O V I TA L I
CHEF PORTRAIT
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T R AV E L L I N G TA S T E B U D S JA PA N E S E M I S O R A M EN
IL ARIO MOSCONI, MOSCONI 32
BAKING CL ASSICS
MY LU X E M B O U R G
CHEF’S MASTERCL ASS F U S I L LO N I – LU M AC H I N E D I M A R E
DRINKS 36
E X PAT R EC I P E W H I T E T U N A TATA K I BY RYÔ D Ô K A J I WA R A
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VINTNER PORTRAIT D O M A I N E C EP D ’ O R
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C H E F R EC I P E L I N G U I N E FA N I A L L A M A R I N A R A BY R O B ER TO FA N I
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B A R S N A P S H OT L E T R I A N O N C O C K TA I L B A R &
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LO C A L & R EG I O N A L
‘ O L D C U B A N ’ C O C K TA I L R EC I P E
B O U C H ER I E K A I F F ER – A C A P I TA L I N S T I T U T I O N 128 42
R E P O R TAG E
CAFE PORTRAIT A N C I EN C I N É M A C A F É
K AC H EN T U R N S 1 0 130 50
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B E W I TC H ED BY T H E G R EEN FA I RY &
AT P A . S . B . L .
‘ S O U F F L É G L AC É D E L A F ÉE ’ R EC I P E
CITY PORTRAIT W I LT Z – A N I L LU S T R I O U S PA S T & I L LU M I N AT I O N S
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F E AT U R E – A B S I N T H E
S E R I E S – S H E LT E R E D WO R K S H O P S
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S H A K E I T B A BY ! R H A B A R B A R A BY R A P H A EL B E T T I
IN THIS ISSUE
LIFESTYLE 139
WO R K ER S D E S P ER AT ELY N EED ED I N T H E H O S P I TA L I T Y I N D U S T RY 1 42
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F R A N K Y DAU B EN F EL D R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N
M A N AG I N G D I R E C T O R M AU R I Z I O M A F F E I
M U S T- H AV E S S T Y L I S H ‘ N E W S TA LG I A’ F O R YO U R H O M E
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EDITION LU X E TA S T E & S T Y L E S . À R . L . 4A , RUE DE CONSDORF L- 6 2 3 0 B EC H PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN- CHIEF BIBI WINTERSDORF
ARTIST PORTRAIT
A R E S TAU R A N T W I T H A G R EEN S O U L 146
IMPRESSUM
BUSINESS
I N T H E GA R D E N
CONTRIBUTORS CHAREL HEINEN, MARION FINZI, M A R I E T I S S I E R , A N N E LO M M E L , PAU L A S O R YA N O , O L I V E R Z E LT, J I L L N OVA K , S T É P H A N I E K R I S C H E L , K I R S T Y VO N B O C H , LY D I A M U T S C H T R A N S L AT I O N R AC H E L Z AY E R , M I C H A E L S C OT T
H O M E F LO R I S T RY
COPY EDITORS R AC H E L Z AY E R , M I C H A E L S C OT T
S P OT L I G H T O N . . .
ART DIREC TOR MARC DOSTERT
M E AT & M I L K F R O M LU X E M B O U R G
GRAPHIC DESIGNER E N I A H A EC K
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G R E E N K I TC H E N C H I L L I T, D O N ’ T C H U C K I T
D I G I TA L C O N T E N T M A N AG E R CLÉMENTINE POGGI
IN NUMBERS
PRINTER J O H N E N - P R I N T LU X E M B O U R G
1 0 Y E A R S O F K AC H EN M AGA Z I N 156
H E A LT H U N D ER S TA N D I N G & C O M B AT T I N G C O LO R EC TA L C A N C ER
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WELLBEING
T H E M AG A Z I N E K AC H E N A N D T H E W E B S I T E W W W. K AC H E N . L U A R E I N F O R M AT I O N M E D I A P U B L I S H E D BY T H E F O L LO W I N G PUBLISHING HOUSE:
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G R E AT E R R EG I O N A GOURMET BREAK IN DURBUY
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© 2 0 2 4 LU X E TA S T E & S T Y L E S . À R . L . ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. COPYRIGHT USE LICENCES M AY B E O B TA I N E D F R O M LU X O R R A S B L ( LU X E M B O U R G O R G A N I S AT I O N F O R R E P R O D U C T I O N R I G H T S ) W W W. L U X O R R . L U
Our cover showcases a groundbreaking moment: the first ever picture in our history generated entirely by artificial intelligence. This pioneering image draws inspiration from the book ‘KACHEN’, published in 2009 – the cornerstone of our magazine. But rest assured: We remain the head chefs in the kitchen. AI is simply our new sous chef!
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R E S TAU R A N T & S H O P N E W S
L A TA B L E A L E X I S B AU D I N
HUGO COFFEE & BRUNCH
K A I TO
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8 9 R U E D E LU X E M B O U R G
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L- 8 1 4 0 B R I D EL
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ALEXISBAUDIN.FR
The former chef of the Le Pampre restaurant in Metz has just opened his new establishment in Petite-Hettange (40 minutes from Luxembourg City). In a completely refurbished restaurant with a modern, uncluttered decor, the chef wanted to create an eco-conscious restaurant, offering a cuisine that combines technical expertise and creativity, with a focus on local produce. There’s no room for routine here, as the menu changes every month to reflect the seasons as closely as possible. The chef makes no secret of his ambition to win his first Michelin star soon. An address to discover and a chef to follow.
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@H U G O . C O F F E E . B R U N C H
For the past six months, Bridel has been home to a new café-restaurant, open every day of the week. Inside, a friendly ambiance awaits you as you are greeted with a smile by owner, Ioanna. Come for breakfast, lunch or brunch. On the menu, the Greek-born chef, like Ioanna, concocts classic recipes (eggs Benedict, avocado toast), as well as Greek specialties that will take your taste buds on a journey. Chez Hugo is a haven where you can take your time over delicious sweet and savory dishes and an excellent cup of coffee.
KAITO.LU
A 100% Japanese decor for this new ramen restaurant on Place de Paris. As soon as you step inside, you’ll be swept away by the Japanese street food vibe, with illuminated signs on the ceiling and manga wallpaper. On the plate, you’ll love the handmade noodles imported from Japan, made from Hokkaido wheat, for a unique and tasty result. There’s a choice of classic ramen (miso shoyu or tonkotsu) or specialties such as Tan Tan Men, made with fried chicken and bok choy in a lightly spiced broth.
R E S TAU R A N T & S H O P N E W S
F LOW
C E R UZ Z I
F LU X E T T E L B R U C K
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2 A R U E E U G ÈN E R U P P ER T
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L- 9 0 5 1 E T T EL B R U C K
FLOWLUXEMBOURG.LU
In early August, a brand-new restaurant opened its doors on the ground floor of the Grand Hotel Cravat. Flow offers modern, yet authentic Greek cuisine, featuring a selection of crisp salads, flavourful meats and delicate pastries. Each dish is carefully crafted to give a delicious glimpse into Greek tradition, shaped by the rich culinary heritage of the Mediterranean. Insider tip: Be sure to save room for dessert – you won’t regret it!
CERUZZI.LU
Séverin Laface, owner of the Come à la Maison group, opened his eighth restaurant in La Cloche d’Or this summer, called Ceruzzi. Here, the menu offers something for everyone: ceviches, tartars, salads, traditional wood-fired pizzas, pastas, risottos, lobsters, and even sushi! With three beautiful terraces and more than 250 covers, it has everything to cater for business customers from the Gasperich district, as well as the after-work crowd and families, with its famous Sunday brunch.
FLUXBURGERS.LU
The popular Flux Burger has now opened in the pedestrian zone in Ettelbrück. Known for its homemade burger patties and sauces, the team focuses on quality and creativity. Using regional beef and offering numerous customisation options, guests can build their own burger or choose from a selection of special creations. With fresh ingredients and attention to detail, Flux Burger has become a go-to spot for burger lovers in the north of Luxembourg.
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TA S T Y B O X
THE
TA S T Y B O X Autumn’s here, and so is our flavour-packed surprise! We’ve teamed up with local culinary wizards to conjure up a TastyBox full of seasonal delights. What’s inside? The mystery is solved! Discover an autumnal array that’ll keep your taste buds dancing. Your delicious adventure awaits!
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1 Favori Bitter - Grands Chais de France,
available at La Grande Épicerie Massen M A S S E N . LU/E PI C E R I E 2 Knuppert Beer - Concept&Partners CO NCEP TPAR TNERS . LU 3 Crèpes dentelle - Delhaize Taste of Inspirations DELHAIZE.LU 4 Walnuts with milk chocolate - NOK,
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available at Cocottes NOKLANOIXBIO.COM 5 LËT’Z POP ! Luxembourgish Popcorn -
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La Provençale PROVENCALE.LU 6 Lyra Flower Vase - RAK Porcelain RAK.COM 7 Cashew nut chocolate bar - Chocolats du Cœur B I T . LY/ C H O C O L AT D U C O E U R 8 Wonnerbar cereal bar - ATP a.s.b.l. AT P. L U
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9 1 voucher for an annual subscription to
REESEN magazine - Luxe Taste & Style L U X E TA S T E S T Y L E . C O M
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PRODUCT NEWS
GËLLE FR A® DE BÉIER Introducing the second edition of Gëlle Fra® De BÉIER: a special brew in a sleek 33 cl long neck bottle. Crafted to commemorate the centenary of Luxembourg’s iconic Gëlle Fra, this beer embodies the spirit and pride of the nation in every sip. A masterpiece born from the creative synergy between Will Kreutz and DEN HEISCHTER Brewery, this top-fermented ale boasts 7.8% alcohol content, delivering a taste experience that perfectly balances sweetness and bitterness. For connoisseurs, also available in a convenient TriPak of 3 x 33 cl. GELLEFRA.LU
R A MBOR N FRUIT JUICES As the school bells ring in mid-September, Ramborn Cider Co.’s juices bring a refreshing twist to lunch breaks. From the crisp Apple Juice to the delightful Pear & Apple blend, these locally fresh pressed juices with no added sugar are perfect for a revitalising break. Celebrate the new school year with a sip of Luxembourg’s finest orchard fruits! RAMBORN.COM
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NEWS
S TA R R E D C U I S I N E
NO R EST FOR STA R CH EFS After their refined 4-Hands Dinner in July, Cyril Molard (2-Michelin-starred chef at Ma Langue Sourit) and René Mathieu (1 Michelin star and a Green Star at La Distillerie) are gearing up for more exciting challenges. From 25 to 29 September, they will each offer a sky-high dining experience at over 50 metres above ground during the Dinner in the Sky event in Luxembourg. This unique culinary adventure will also feature other Michelin-starred chefs from the Grand Duchy, including Ryôdô Kajiwara, Louis Linster, and Julien Lucas.
CU L I NA RY W H ISPER S
Before that, René Mathieu will head to Rotterdam for a remarkable plant-based 6-Hands Dinner on 24 September. Teaming up with fellow “Untouchable” chefs as recognized by the We’re Smart Guide — Dutch chef Emile van der Staak (KACHEN No. 34) and Spanish chef Xavier Pellicer (KACHEN No. 36) — they will create an extraordinary vegetable-focused feast that promises to be nothing short of spectacular.
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The year-end promises a flurry of exciting new openings in the restaurant scene. In Bridel, the former “Boos” will reopen in November under the stewardship of Clovis Degrave and Aline Bourscheid (known for Hostellerie du Grünewald and Chef’s Table). Rebranded as Maison B, it will offer a wallet-friendly brasserie menu in a modern, airy setting. A particular draw will be its expansive outdoor areas, perfect for guests of all ages. Archibald De Prince, winner of the Bocuse d’Or Belgium and former sous-chef to René Mathieu at the starred La Distillerie, is realising his dream of owning a hotel-restaurant in November. Taking over the former Vieux-Moulin site in Echternach, his eponymous establishment Archibald De Prince promises to be an idyllic retreat nestled between river and forest, exuding tranquility and romance. A renowned two-star chef from France is also joining Luxembourg’s gastronomic scene: Philippe Mille, who left Domaine des Crayères in Reims a few months ago, will oversee the kitchen at the reopening L’Opéra in Rollingergrund. Set to open its doors in October, this completely renovated restaurant will revive its classic colour scheme while offering a carefully curated brasserie menu alongside an impressive selection of wines and champagnes.
K ACHEN & RTL
A DEL ECTA BL E PA RT N ER SH I P We’re excited to announce our partnership with RTL! KACHEN, your food and lifestyle magazine, is joining forces with RTL, Luxembourg’s media leader. Starting now, you can find exclusive KACHEN content across RTL Today, RTL.lu, and RTL infos. Whether you’re a foodie or a trend enthusiast, this collaboration promises to bring you fresh insights and inspiration. Stay tuned and enjoy the best of both worlds!
rtltoday.lu
BOOKS
T HE G O OD EATER
CONV IVIR
P E AC EF U L K ITC HE N
N I N A G U I L B E AU LT
ROGELLO GARCIA
C AT H E R I N E P E R E Z
“T
I
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B LO O M S B U RY P U B L I S H I N G
ABRAMS BOOKS
HARPERONE
2 5 6 PAG E S
2 8 8 PAG E S
2 8 8 PAG E S
I S B N 9 78 -1 - 6 3 5 5 7- 6 9 9 -3
I S B N 9 78 -1 - 9 49 4 8 - 0 3 3 -7
I S B N 9 78 - 0 - 0 6 3 3 2-2 5 7- 8
he Good Eater” by Nina Guilbeault, PhD, offers a thought-provoking exploration of how vegans and their critics are reshaping global eating habits. The book delves into the environmental and moral challenges of meat consumption and the slow shift towards plant-based diets. Guilbeault, a Harvard-trained sociologist, examines the evolution of veganism, its internal conflicts and the broader implications for our food systems and the planet. This work challenges readers to consider if there is truly an ethical way to eat in the modern world.
n “Convivir”, Michelin-starred chef Rogelio Garcia presents over 150 recipes that blend traditional Mexican cuisine with the rich agricultural bounty of California’s Napa Valley. Drawing from his roots in Mexico and upbringing in Northern California, Garcia celebrates the fusion of vibrant flavours and local ingredients. The book includes techniques for making tortillas and tamales, alongside modern takes on classics like tacos and tostadas, as well as innovative dishes like Pork Rib Carnitas with Carrot Tamales.
n “Peaceful Kitchen”, nutritionist and social media star Catherine Perez offers over 100 plant-based recipes inspired by Mexican and Dominican flavours. This cookbook is designed to make healthy eating stress-free and flavourful, featuring traditional dishes with creative twists. Perez, a registered dietitian, shares her love for wholesome meals, from Moro de Habichuelas to Breakfast Tostadas, and encourages readers to bring their own heritage and imagination into the kitchen, making mealtimes a mindful and joyful experience.
COMFO RT OTTOLENGHI
I
n “Ottolenghi Comfort”, bestselling author Yotam Ottolenghi reimagines comfort food with over 100 globally inspired recipes. This collection comprises familiar dishes with creative twists, reflecting Ottolenghi’s childhood memories and travels. From Caramelised Onion Orecchiette to Cheesy Bread Soup, each recipe offers a fresh take on comfort cooking. Co-authored with Helen Goh, Verena Lochmuller and Tara Wigley, the book celebrates the joy of cooking and the connections food creates across generations.
TEN SPEED PRESS 3 2 0 PAG E S I S B N 9 78 - 0 -3 9 9 5 8 -1 7 7- 9 R EL E A S E O N O C TO B ER 8 T H
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CASINO C O N C E RT S & S H OW S E AT & D R I N K H OT E L S YOUR DAILY DO SE OF EN T ER TAINMEN T
YO U R DAILY D O SE O F
GASTRONOMY Welcome to CASINO 2000, where emotions run high every day. Here, we always explore, thrill, laugh and experience surprises. Discover unique spaces like the restaurants Les Roses and Purple Lounge, and immerse yourself in unforgettable experiences with a lineup that sparks dreams. The wildest spectacles, concerts and one-man shows await you. So, when will we see you?
C A S I N O 2 0 0 0 . LU
LËTZEBUERG
MADE IN LUXEMBOURG
FEIERBOUN
COFFEE ROA ST ER S TEXT MARION FINZI PHOTOS FEIERBOUN
F
eierboun is a family business built on a shared passion for coffee. Since 2021, Patrick and Vincent, an uncle and nephew team, have been roasting specialty coffee, painstakingly sourced from all corners of the globe, in their workshop in Bascharage.
A PA S S I O N T U R N E D B U S I N E S S “At first, we roasted our coffee as a hobby for our own consumption, because we loved drinking specialty coffee,” explains Patrick. “This very quickly whet our appetites for spending every day of our lives doing something we really love and find meaningful,” adds Vincent. It’s plain to see that this pair are on the same wavelength, perhaps because they’ve always known each other. After attending a barista and roasting course in Germany, the passionate duo learned everything they needed to know about coffee and the art of roasting. They also developed business acumen vital for managing a product imported from all over the world. Following a long period of groundwork spent sourcing producers (either directly or through importers), they finally took the plunge in January 2021 with the launch of an online shop. For two years, the partners roasted their coffee in their workshop in Bascharage. “We started out with five bags and used a little machine that could only roast 1.5 kg,” grins Patrick. “We’ve recently swapped this for a 6 kg machine. Although we can produce more, it’s still not enough!” A year ago, the partners opened a coffee shop in the centre of Luxembourg City. “We believed it was important to put a face to our brand and see the supply chain right through to the end with the customers who drink our coffee,” explains Vincent. He takes care of barista duties in the shop, while Patrick focuses purely on roasting.
P R O M OT I N G T H E S TO RY BEHIND THE BEANS When asked what the roaster’s role is in the coffee-making process, Patrick immediately replies: “To make the beans sing and express everything the farmer was trying to achieve. They’re like gold dust to us.” The team’s decision to focus on specialty coffee was never in any doubt. “Not only does it taste great, but we know that prices are fair throughout the supply chain, particularly for farmers, which means they can make a good living. This eases the pressure on farmers, so they can pick the coffee cherries when
they’re fully ripe without having to hurry the process. Timing is everything when making this outstanding coffee.” This desire to promote the product, and particularly its origin, is plain to see in the packaging: “Our designer came up with a special design for each country using the colours of its flag.” Feierboun’s attention to detail throughout the supply chain is focused on one thing: providing its loyal customers with the best possible experience. FEIERBOUN.LU
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T Y P I C A L LY L U X E M B O U R G I S H
RECIPE & PHOTO ANNE LOMMEL
PASCHTÉIT – BOUCHÉE À L A REINE SERVES 4 3 1/2 H O U R S
• 6–8 ready-made puff pastry pies
• 2 bay leaves • 1 tbsp salt • 1–1.5 l of water
For the chicken stock • 1 soup chicken or 3 chicken breasts and 2 chicken thighs • Soup vegetables (e.g. 1 leek, 1 onion, 2 carrots, celeriac, 5 stalks of parsley) • 10 crushed peppercorns • 4 juniper berries • 4 cloves
For the sauce • 5 heaped tbsp flour • 100 g butter • 150 ml cold milk • 400 g mushrooms (preser ved or fresh) • Chicken stock (from cooking the chicken) • Salt & pepper
The chicken stock
2 Add about half of the reserved stock
1 Place the soup chicken in a large pot.
and continue stirring. If necessary, add more stock until the sauce has reached the desired consistency. The sauce should be slightly viscous. The process is similar to preparing a béchamel sauce. 3 Remove the mushrooms from the jar and add to the sauce. 4 Keep the sauce warm over a low heat and season to taste.
Wash the soup vegetables thoroughly, chop roughly and add to the chicken in the pot. Add the herbs and spices. Cover with plenty of water and simmer over a medium heat for 60 to 90 minutes until the meat is cooked through. 2 When the meat is cooked, remove the chicken and vegetables from the stock and set the stock aside. Cut the meat into bite-sized pieces.
The finish 1 Preheat the oven to 120°C fan.
TIP
2 Carefully cut out the lids of the puff
Monitor the cooking process to ensure that the meat does not overcook.
3 Warm the pies in the oven for
pastry pies. 10 minutes before filling.
The sauce 1 Melt the butter in a pan, add the flour
and mix well with a whisk. Slowly add the milk and mix well.
4 Fill the pies with the poultry ragout,
replace the lids and serve with salad, rice or chips as desired.
17
GRANNY’S RECIPE
18
GRANNY’S RECIPE
In our search for a family recipe, it seemed an obvious choice to knock on the door of the Guillou family. And Katell Guillou, the daughter of two-starred chef Pierrick Guillou who sadly passed away in 2019, was more than happy to oblige. “It’s a recipe my father, who was born in Nantes, brought with him from Brittany when he moved to Luxembourg,” says the woman who now runs fine dining restaurant Guillou Campagne, under the watchful eye of her mother, Lysiane. “It’s a traditional hearty Breton dish, made with lashings of butter and cream, that we very often serve in the restaurant, with or without caviar,” says chef Guillaume Rotario, who was trained by Pierrick Guillou and is now at the helm of the Michelin star establishment run by Katell. A typical dish that only the Bretons know the secret recipe for... (and now, of course, you!)
R EC I P E K AT E L L G U I L LO U PHOTOS DIANA SELLIER
WILD TURBOT WITH CAVIAR BUT TER FROM NANTES SERVES 4
35 MINUTES
• 400 g soft butter • 6 shallots • 200 ml dry Jurançon (wine) • 200 ml soft Jurançon • 100 ml cream
• 40 g caviar • 4 pieces of turbot, each weighing around 140 g
• Fish stock • 25 g semi-salted butter
The sauce
2 Place the turbot on top of the shallots.
1 Peel and finely chop the shallots (keep one
Add a dash of white wine and cover the pieces with the fish stock. 3 Place a lid on the pan and cook over a low heat for 6-8 minutes.
aside for cooking the fish). Place them in a small saucepan with both Jurançon wines. Bring to boil and reduce by two-thirds over a low heat. 2 Once reduced, pour the cream into the saucepan, add the butter, previously cut into small pieces, and whisk constantly until you have a thick, creamy sauce. Strain it through a sieve and set aside until ready to serve.
To serve 1 Just before serving, gently add the 40 g
of caviar without crushing the grains. 2 Arrange the slices on a bed of shallot confit. 3 Top with the caviar beurre blanc.
The turbot 1 To cook the turbot, it should ideally be
braised: spread the bottom of a saucepan with semi-salted butter and add some chopped shallots.
TIP
To check if the fish is cooked, stick a knife blade into the flesh. If there is no resistance, it is cooked.
19
CHILDHOOD MEMORIES
20
CHILDHOOD MEMORIES
When Louis Linster came home from school as a child, he usually went to his grandmother’s house, since his mother was working in the restaurant. There, traditional Luxembourgish home cooking was always on the menu. “She had two or three typical dishes that she made often. But cauliflower and eggs in Béchamel sauce were always my favourite,” recalls the Michelin-starred chef from the restaurant Léa Linster in Frisange. “Many children don’t like cauliflower, but I loved it. My son enjoys it a lot too.” He has of course refined the dish a bit, but he remains largely faithful to his grandmother’s recipe.
RECIPE LOUIS LINSTER PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT
CAULIFLOWER & EG GS WITH BÉCHA MEL SAUCE SERVES 4
30 MINUTES
• 2 heads of cauliflower • 8 eggs • 1 l whole milk • 100 g butter • 100 g flour • Croutons • 1 bunch chives • Salt • Pepper • Piment d’espelette • Nutmeg
1 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Cut the cauliflower into florets and cook them in the salted water for about 4 minutes. 2 Cook the eggs in a saucepan for 10 minutes until hard-boiled. 3 Prepare a roux: Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour all at once, and stir well. Cook for a few minutes over low heat, then refrigerate. 4 Prepare the Béchamel sauce: Heat the milk and season with salt, pepper, Piment d’Espelette, and nutmeg. Add 150 g of the roux and bring briefly to a boil. Let it cook over a low heat for 15 minutes. 5 Arrange the hard-boiled eggs and cauliflower on a dish. Pour the Béchamel sauce over them and bake the dish in the oven for a few minutes until gratinated. Garnish with chopped chives and croutons.
21
LUXEMBOURGISH CL ASSICS
For KACHEN’s 40th anniversary issue, one thing was indispensable: the expertise of Carlo Sauber. This renowned chef has been a cornerstone of our magazine for years. As an instructor inspiring budding chefs, former team leader of Luxembourg’s national cooking team, and author of several cookbooks, he has consistently enriched our pages with his comprehensive knowledge. In this edition, he once again showcases his skills: Through an ingenious step-by-step guide, he leads us through innovative cooking techniques, creating a true culinary experience.
RECIPE CARLO SAUBER PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT
P OACHED CHICKEN BRE AS T WITH YOGHURT SERVES 4 2 HOURS + REST
• 4 pieces of yellow chicken breast • 125 plain Greek yoghurt • 1 sprig thyme • 2 cloves of garlic • Salt & pepper For the sauce • 300 ml well-reduced poultry stock • 1 sprig thyme • 1 shallot • Pumpkin seed oil • 50 ml port wine For the vegetables • Fine beans • White beans (lingots) • Broad beans • Flageolet beans For herbs • Affilla cress (peas) • Vene cress (acid taste) • Zorri cress (horseradish) For the crunchy crust • A few hazelnuts • Some wasabi peas • 1 tbsp pine nuts • 2 tbsp Panko (breadcrumbs)
22
LUXEMBOURGISH CL ASSICS
1 Trim the chicken breasts. Chop the
2 Place the chicken breasts in a plastic
thyme and crush the garlic. Mix with the yoghurt and season with salt and pepper.
cooking bag with the yoghurt and seal. Leave to marinate for 2 hours.
4 Heat the chicken stock. Season to
5 Blanch the fine beans and refresh.
taste with port wine.
Soak the ingots for at least 30 minutes and cook for 1 hour according to the instructions. Blanch the flageolet beans and chill.
3 Poach for 60 minutes in a water
bath at 65°C.
6 Blanch the broad beans, trim and
peel. Sweat the shallots in the butter and reheat the beans. Season to taste.
7 Drain the chicken breasts and fry in
8 Crush the ingredients for the crust
9 Arrange 4 fine beans on the plates.
a pan over a very high heat on the skin side until they take on colour.
in a mortar and sprinkle over the chicken breasts.
Cut each chicken breast in 2 and arrange on top. Garnish the plates with the beans and herbs. Top with the sauce or serve separately.
23
REGIONAL & SEASONAL
As the leaves turn golden, Luxembourg’s forests offer more than just scenic beauty. This autumn, our ‘Recettes du terroir’ series delves into the woods with Becher Gare’s latest creation. Think venison reimagined: a Carpaccio de biche, cured like gravlax, marrying a Scandinavian technique with the Ardennes terroir. This dish isn’t just a feast for the palate; it’s a nod to sustainable dining. In a world grappling with meat consumption, wild game emerges as nature’s own answer – lean, local, and luxurious. Once again, Chef Fred Vuillemin proves why Becher Gare holds the crown of Luxembourg’s best ‘restaurant du terroir’. Prepare to explore a dish where tradition meets innovation, and conservation meets cuisine.
RECIPE FRÉDÉRIC VUILLEMIN PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT
VENISON CARPACCIO LIKE A GRAVL A X SERVES 2
• 1 filet of Luxembourgish venison • 500 g coarse salt • 400 g sugar • 100 g brown sugar • 3 crushed juniper berries For the syrup • 500 ml elderflower syrup • 50 ml gin
15 MINUTES + REST 1 Mix the salt, sugars, and juniper berries
and completely cover the venison filet with the mixture. Leave in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 hours. Remove from the refrigerator and rinse thoroughly with clear water. Pat dry with paper towels. 2 Make a syrup with the elderflower syrup and the gin, and cook for 3 minutes on a high heat. 3 Cut the filet into thin slices. Arrange the slices on a plate and glaze them with the syrup using a brush. According to your taste, add a mesclun salad, goji berries, and pickles.
TIP
For a very thin carpaccio, place the slices between two sheets of parchment paper and flatten them with a rolling pin.
25
MY LUXEMBOURG
26
MY LUXEMBOURG
Rachel Rameau from the restaurant ‘De Pefferkär’ in Huncherange is one of the few women in the country who can rightfully call herself a head chef. As a member of the ‘Association des Maîtres Cuisiniers de France,’ this Lorraineborn chef has earned the respect of many renowned colleagues, despite not having formal training. Her creative take on the Luxembourg classic ‘Stoffi’ (quark) with onions and chives is complemented by an assortment of seasonal and locally grown vegetables. “I always emphasize working with seasonal and local ingredients,” she says during our visit to ‘Pefferkär.’ “This recipe works year-round and can be made with any vegetables in season.” It’s a light yet incredibly delicious dish! And Rachel promises it’s easy to make: “The tartlet made from brick pastry is my special twist, but you can also serve it on a slice of fresh bread.”
RECIPE RACHEL RAMEAU PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT
‘ S TOFFI ’ WITH ONIONS & CHIVES SERVES 4
3 0 M I N U T E S (+1 0 M I N U T E S T H E D AY B E F O R E )
For the Szechuan pepper vinaigrette • 25 g olive oil from Nyons AOC • 8 g rice vinegar • Salt • Green Szechuan pepper For the black olive soil • 200 g black olives • Small mix of garden herbs and edible flowers
For the brick pastry tartlets • 4 brick pastry sheets • Clarified butter For the fresh cheese • 250 g cottage cheese • 200 g fresh goat cheese from Berdorf (Fromagerie Schmalen) • 2 finely chopped scallions • 10 g finely chopped chives • 1 pinch of salt
For the basil oil • 25 g olive oil from Nyons AOC • 20 g basil • Salt For the fresh vegetables • Radishes, tomatoes, colourful carrots, peas, fava beans, or any seasonal vegetables of your choice
The Szechuan pepper vinaigrette (the day before)
The fresh cheese with herbs
1 Mix all the ingredients.
1 Mix all the ingredients.
2 Let stand at room temperature to allow
2 Chill for at least 2 hours.
the pepper to infuse. The basil oil The olive soil
1 Blanch the basil in salted boiling water for 1 minute.
1 Blanch the olives three times in boiling water.
2 Plunge into ice water, drain, and blend with olive oil
2 Dehydrate in the oven at 80°C for 5 hours or
in a dehydrator. 3 Blend with the herbs and keep dry.
and salt. Plating 1 Slice the vegetables thinly if necessary.
The tartlets
2 Season with the green Szechuan pepper vinaigrette.
1 Brush the brick pastry sheets with clarified butter.
3 Place a tartlet on a plate and fill it with the fresh cheese/
2 Stack two sheets together and cut to
the desired size. 3 Bake dry at 170°C for 10 minutes. 4 Place on paper towels to remove excess butter.
goat cheese mixture. 4 Arrange the seasoned vegetables, herbs, olive soil,
and edible flowers on top. 5 Decorate the plate with basil oil.
27
CHEF PORTRAIT
ILARIO MOSCONI
A CU LINA RY M A EST RO Ilario Mosconi is a culinary virtuoso on Luxembourg’s gastronomy scene. Together with his wife Simonetta, he has been enchanting his guests with a harmony of delightful dishes for 38 years now.
TEXT MARIE TISSIER PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSK AS
I
lario Mosconi was born on 20 July 1957 in the pretty little Lombardy village of Ponte di Legno, high up in the Italian Alps. A happy childhood amid the fresh mountain air and the stunning natural beauty of the Presena glacier. As you may expect, skiing featured on the school timetable here in winter. A sport that became a passion for the young Ilario, who started ski jumping at the age of twelve. “My coach was two-time Italian champion Giacomo Aimoni,” says Mosconi’s chef de cuisine proudly. As a boy, Ilario dreamed of making it as a skier and competing professionally. But it wasn’t to be. In 1970, his parents decided to up sticks and move the family to Luxembourg. “And so we arrived in Esch-sur-Alzette. Where I had no friends, didn’t speak the language and lived in a flat on the fourth floor. It was really tough. I had to learn French and get used to a way of life that was worlds away from my life in the mountains. And the worst thing about it was there were no opportunities to ski!”
A U N I Q U E TA S T E O F I TA LY With the influx of Italians in Esch in the early 1970s, he quickly made friends, but: “School wasn’t for me. I wasn’t ever any good at sitting still and learning – I needed to be active, to feel ‘useful’,” he says. So, at the age of 15, Ilario left school and started working as a waiter at Astro [Editor’s note: now Hotel Acacia], Auberge du Brill and Pizzeria Lema.
28
CHEF PORTRAIT
In the 1980s, he began dating fellow Italian Simonetta, who he’d known for a long time. “In those days in Esch, everyone knew everyone,” they laugh. The couple married in 1982. As newlyweds, they enjoyed nothing more than discovering the region’s finest restaurants together. It marked the start of their shared passion for gastronomy. “After a while, we started talking about opening a restaurant of our own. But we wanted it to be something unique,” they say. In 1986, they opened Domus on Place du Brill and hired Renato Favaro as head chef. “We wanted to stand out from other restaurants, to offer Italian specialities you wouldn’t find in a traditional Italian restaurant.” Pasta, farfalle with salmon, sweetbreads with porcini mushrooms, spaghetti with prawns and redcurrants, ravioli with a walnut cream sauce... The couple were bursting with ideas, and their restaurant soon bursting at the seams with guests.
B E T T E R L AT E T H A N N E V E R When Chef Favaro left in 1989, Ilario Mosconi took up the baton in the kitchen. “I’d only ever worked front of house before. I’d had zero training as a chef, but was keen to take on the challenge,” says the Italian chef. “So, the sous chef helped train me, and that’s how I started – as a chef de commis.” On one of their culinary journeys, Ilario and Simonetta met Italy’s first three-star chef, Gualtiero Marchesi. Marchesi knew about the Mosconis’ project and invited Ilario to do some work experience in his kitchens. Ilario jumped at the opportunity. “I travelled to Milan every three to four months, working 16 to 17-hour days. As soon as I’d get back to my hotel room, right opposite the restaurant, I’d make notes on what I’d learned that day.” And so it was that Ilario Mosconi became... Chef Mosconi. Then, one Thursday evening in 1997, just as Ilario was changing a bulb in one of the restaurant’s chandeliers, the phone rang. On the other end were the Poppelaars from Manoir Kasselslay in Clervaux: “Congratulations! We’ve just heard from Le Plaisir de la Table [Editor’s note: in Belgium] that you’ve been
“ W E WA N T E D T O S TA N D O U T F R O M O T H E R R E S TA U R A N T S , T O O F F E R I TA L I A N S P E C I A L I T I E S YO U W O U L D N ’ T F I N D I N A T R A D I T I O N A L I TA L I A N R E S TA U R A N T.” ILARIO MOSCONI
29
CHEF PORTRAIT
awarded a star in the Michelin Guide!” There was a festive atmosphere at Domus that evening, even if Simonetta Mosconi didn’t quite dare believe the good news until she’d seen it with her own two eyes: “There were no official ceremonies back then like there are today; you had to wait until you had the Michelin Guide in your hand and could see it there for yourself, in black and white.”
F R O M E S C H TO LU X E M B O U R G C I T Y That same year, the Mosconis decided to leave Esch-sur-Alzette and open a restaurant in Luxembourg City. “We sold everything we had... All we had left was the car,” recalls Simonetta. The run-down house they bought in the Grund district needed gutting. The renovation work took three years. All that remained of the original building were the façades facing the street and the River Pétrusse. Ilario Mosconi gets out some photos. One shows his professional Molteni stove. It’s hanging from the end of a crane, at a height of around ten metres. “It was lowered into the kitchen from above before the roof was put back on,” says the chef. Mosconi, Grund’s new Italian restaurant, opened its doors in November 2000. “Our philosophy has always been to keep improving, to be consistent and to source only the very best ingredients,” say the owners. Even if that means travelling the length and breadth of Italy to do so. “We know all our producers and can tell you about every single farm that supplies our restaurant. For example, the farm where we buy our Corbara tomatoes – which we put in jars so we can use them all year round – employs a dozen people. They’re the best quality tomatoes, all graded and sorted by hand. Any with even the slightest defect are put aside and sold to pizzerias, for example. We don’t buy anything blindly – even any products we get from wholesaler La Provençale are products that we already know and trust and have given our quality seal of approval to,” explains Ilario Mosconi. “We’ve even been to visit our almond, citrus fruit and pistachio supplier in Sicily.”
30
“ O U R P H I L O S O P H Y H A S A LWAY S BEEN TO KEEP IMPROVING, TO BE CONSIS TENT AND TO SOURCE O N LY T H E V E R Y B E S T I N G R E D I E N T S .” ILARIO MOSCONI
CHEF PORTRAIT
A N E LU S I V E S EC O N D S TA R It’s meticulous work, beautifully orchestrated by a couple in perfect harmony. While Ilario composes his dishes in the kitchen, Simonetta welcomes their guests and breathes life into the place. A dazzling duet that earned them a second Michelin star in 2005. An accolade for Mosconi that enabled the restaurant to join the illustrious circle of Relais et Châteaux and Grandes Tables du Monde restaurants. “It was what we’d always dreamed of,” says Simonetta with a smile. But in 2013, the second star disappeared. The restaurant owners never found out why. “We tried to carry on with the same zest and enthusiasm,” says the chef. The passionate duo never gave up and continued to work undeterred. In 2016, Michelin awarded the Italian restaurant a second star again... only to take it away for a second time in 2019. A huge disappointment, but one that didn’t put the restaurateurs off their stride. The exquisite establishment at 13, rue Münster is still the proud holder of a Michelin star, amongst other awards commending its culinary excellence. Most recently, Olivier Petit, who has been working at the restaurant for 20 years, was named Sommelier of the Year 2024 by Gault&Millau. When asked if he’s thinking of retiring, the 67-year-old chef replies: “Yes, at some point, but not just yet.” For now, he is content with life as it is. Although he is looking forward to “having more time for golf, tennis and skiing”. “And for walks in the mountains, with a picnic of delicious local food and a bottle of wine,” adds his wife. But until then, Ilario Mosconi will continue to devote himself, heart and soul, to his restaurant. Because this maestro of Italian cuisine still has masterpieces galore in him to delight Mosconi’s diners.
MOSCONI 1 3 R U E M Ü N S T ER L-2 1 6 0 LU X E M B O U R G MOSCONI.LU
31
CHEF’S MASTERCLASS
FUSILLONI - LUM ACHINE DI M ARE
RECIPE IL ARIO MOSCONI PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSK AS
SERVES 4 90 MINUTES (+ RES TING TIME)
• 320 g fusilloni pasta For the dill oil • 200 g sunflower oil • 200 g dill For the whelks • 20 large live whelks • 1 tbsp of white vinegar • 2 bay leaves • A few pieces of celery • 50 g butter • 1 drizzle of olive oil • 1 garlic clove • A few sprigs of dill • 100 ml dry white wine For the garlic cream • 8 garlic cloves • 300 ml fresh cream For the cream of mushroom soup • 260 g button mushrooms • Olive oil • A few pinches of thyme For the cream of spinach • 120 g spinach • 100 ml olive oil • 1 ladle of vegetable consommé (approx. 200 ml) • Ice cubes
• Dill powder • Salt
32
CHEF’S MASTERCLASS
1
The dill oil. Heat the sunflower oil for 3 minutes in a bain-marie at 60°C. Cover the dill leaves with the hot oil. Blend with a hand blender in the container. Pour the mixture into a plastic bag closed with a rubber band.
2
Place the bag upright in the fridge for 12 hours. Once the water and oil have dissociated, cut the end of the bag finely and allow the water to drain into a container. As soon as the first drops of green oil appear, pour the contents of the bag into another bowl.
3
The whelks. Soak the whelks in 2 litres of salted water for 3 hours. Repeat three times. Then cook them for an hour in boiling salted water with dill, a spoonful of white vinegar, two bay leaves and pieces of celery.
4
Remove the whelks from the water and leave to cool. Then remove them from their shells and clean them by removing the almond (the skin) and the intestine (the soft part at the bottom of the shell). Cut into quarters and rinse in salted water.
5
The garlic cream. Halve eight garlic cloves. Remove the central germ. Cook the garlic for one minute in a pan of boiling water to soften it. Repeat three times, then chop.
6
In a saucepan, combine the garlic and 300 ml of crème fraîche and reduce by half. Pour into a bowl and blend with a hand blender until creamy. Strain through a sieve and set aside the garlic cream.
33
CHEF’S MASTERCLASS
7
The cream of mushroom soup. Cut the button mushrooms into six pieces. Place them on an oven tray, drizzle with olive oil and a pinch of salt and place in the oven at 200°C for 20 minutes.
8
9
The cream of spinach. Plunge the spinach into boiling salted water for 2 minutes, drain and plunge into a glaze. In a blender, combine the spinach, 30 ml of olive oil, 1 pinch of salt and a ladleful of vegetable consommé. Blend until creamy. Strain through a sieve.
1 0 The finish. In a hot frying pan, cook the whelks in a drizzle
1 1 The pasta. Cook the fusilloni pasta in salted water as
indicated on the packet. Put a little garlic cream in a hot frying pan, add the drained pasta and mix well.
34
Then place them in a suitable bowl, add a little thyme and blend until creamy. Strain through a sieve and set aside the cream of mushroom soup in a bowl.
of olive oil, a knob of butter, a few sprigs of dill, a clove of garlic, minced, and add 100 ml of dry white wine.
1 2 The garnish. Place the cream of mushroom soup on
the bottom of the plate and place the fusilloni on top. Top the pasta with the cream of spinach, then the whelks. Add the garlic cream and sprinkle with oil and dill powder.
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T
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E X AC T I N G P R O D U C T I O N S P EC I F I C AT I O N S As an example, the poultry houses that are home to Lët’z Poulet chickens boast large windows in the roof for natural lighting and a covered wire mesh run for access to the open air in winter, all the while protecting the chickens from the risk of avian flu, as well as a fresh-water misting system for the summer months. The chickens’ feed has been specially developed by a nutritionist. The chickens are fed a vegetable, mineral and vitamin-based diet throughout their lives, consisting primarily of cereals grown exclusively in Luxembourg and its neighbouring regions. As La Provençale’s production specifications state: “No GMOs may be used.” For all the freedom these free range chickens enjoy, the Lët’z Poulet range is subject to strict comprehensive controls. While the food distribution specialist cares about animal welfare, it cares about people, too. La Provençale recognises the value of the work of the farming families who have invested in the construction of poultry houses. To ensure a fair and sustainable partnership, the purchase price of the chickens has been agreed upon together with the poultry farmers, assuring them a guaranteed income. Mechanisms have also been put in place to adjust the price upwards should costs increase. Quality, respect, local... The Lët’z Poulet range of whole and cut chickens is available in restaurants, communities and supermarkets and from La Provençale’s network of partner butchers.
M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N PROVENCALE.LU
35
E X PAT R EC I P E
36
E X PAT R EC I P E
Michelin-starred chef Ryôdô Kajiwara was born in Saitama prefecture, north of Tokyo, and lived in the world’s largest megalopolis until he was 25. The recipe he offers is ‘very traditional’ in Japan. “In Japan, this dish is made with bonito. I chose albacore tuna, a cousin found in the Mediterranean, for its mild flavour, which really comes into its own when roasted.” He remembers the first time he made this tataki with bonito, in 2003, in the Vent Vert restaurant in Ginza, in the heart of Tokyo: “It was a failure... I overcooked it. You have to be very careful how you cook it.” So there’s a warning for any chefs out there. As for his Japanese ingredients, he finds them all at La Provençale. “If you can, it’s a good idea to go and buy them there,” advises the chef of the Ryôdô restaurant in Luxembourg.
R ECIPE RYÔ D Ô K A J IWAR A PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT
WHITE TUNA TATAKI SERVES 4
• 320/400 g white tuna, scaled For the topping • 20 g mini cucumbers • 8 g chives • 20 g white radish • 4 organic eggs • 8 g grated ginger For the ponzu sauce • 180 g soy sauce • 45 g yuzu juice • 45 g orange juice and zest • 1 leaf dehydrated kombu • 6 g katsuobushi (dried bonito)
3 HOURS + REST The topping 1 Finely julienne the mini cucumbers and white radish
and chop the chives. 2 Grate the ginger. To obtain creamy egg yolks, place the eggs in
the freezer for 48 hours. Crack them and keep the yolks whole. The white tuna 1 Fillet the white tuna. 2 Season lightly with salt. 3 Grill carefully over charcoal (barbecue, table barbecue)
until the fish whitens by 2 millimetres. 4 Then immediately place the fillets in a bucket filled with
ice cubes for one minute to stop the cooking process. 5 Cut the fillets into slices.
The ponzu sauce 1 Place all the ingredients in a vacuum bag. 2 Cook in a steamer for 2 hours at 62°C. 3 Strain through a sieve, pour into a sauce boat and keep cold.
The presentation 1 Arrange three slices of white tuna straight on the plate. 2 Place the egg yolk on top, followed by the julienne of
cucumber and radish. 3 Scatter the chives over the julienne. 4 Form a small quenelle of grated ginger and place alongside. 5 Serve the ponzu sauce on the side to dip the tuna in.
37
CHEF RECIPE
“This is a very simple dish, just like me!” exclaims chef Roberto Fani with a shy smile. It has to be said that the one-star chef from the FANI restaurant in Roeser loves nothing more than to make good produce sing. “In this receipe, the ingredients make the dish”, he adds modestly. Mussels and tomatoes are the basic ingredients, but the chef’s creativity plays a key role by combining them with a crumble of bread and anchovies and colatura di alici, which adds a deep umami flavour, balancing the sweetness of the tomatoes and the saltiness of the mussels. At FANI, linguine is served rolled up on a fork so you can enjoy it in a single bite. Now it’s your turn to cook a Michelin-starred dish at home! Buon appetito.
R EC I PE R O B E R TO FA N I PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSK AS
LINGUINE FANI ALL A M ARINAR A SERVES 8
90 MINUTES
• 1 kg ripe tomatoes (pachino datterino type) • 1 kg fresh mussels • 200 g stale white bread • 5 anchovies with salt
• 300 ml extra virgin olive oil • 100 ml natural water • 1 tbsp colatura di alici
• 600 g linguine • Salt
(anchovy-based sauce)
• A pinch of dried oregano
The tomato paste
The bread and anchovy crumble
1 Wash and blend the ripe tomatoes.
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Toast the stale
2 Strain the mixture through a sieve to
bread with the anchovies in salt, 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil and 1 tablespoon of colatura di alici for 20 minutes. 2 Leave to cool and blend to a coarse powder.
obtain a seed- and skin-free liquid. 3 Pour the liquid into a saucepan and cook over a low heat for about 1 hour, until the contents have reduced by a third. 4 Strain the liquid again to remove any residue, obtaining a ruby-coloured concentrate. The mussel sauce 1 Place the fresh mussels in a frying pan
over a low heat without adding any seasonings. Remove the mussels one by one as soon as they open to avoid overcooking. Set aside the cooking water. 2 Place the mussels (previously shelled) in a thermomix (or blender), add 100 ml of the mussel cooking water, 100 ml of natural water and 100 ml of extra virgin olive oil. Blend (for thermomix: medium speed for 15 minutes at 60°C). 3 Strain through a sieve to obtain a smooth sauce.
The linguine 1 Cook the linguine in salted water
for 8 minutes.
S T E P BY S T E P
2 Drain the linguine and toss in a pan with the
F I N D T H E R EC I P E
remaining cooking water from the mussels and 2 teaspoons of extra virgin olive oil for about 2 minutes, until creamy.
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The garnish 1 Spoon the tomato paste onto the serving plate.
(Note: do not overheat the tomato to avoid losing its consistency and colour). 2 Arrange the linguine mixed with the mussels on top of the tomato paste. 3 Add the mussel sauce (Note: this sauce must not be overheated either). 4 Sprinkle with bread and anchovy crumble. 5 Season with a pinch of dried oregano.
TIP
Careful temperature management during sauce preparation and serving is crucial to preserving flavours and textures.
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LOCAL & REGIONAL
BOUCHER IE K A IFFER – A C A PI TA L INST I T U T ION Established in 1910, Boucherie Kaiffer is the oldest family-run butcher’s shop in Luxembourg. Now in the fourth generation, Anne Kaiffer has been at the helm since 2014. One thing that hasn’t changed over the course of time, however, is this traditional butcher’s steadfast commitment to quality local and seasonal products and traditional Luxembourgish dishes.
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LOCAL & REGIONAL
“ H OW, W H EN A N D W H AT T H E A N I M A L S ARE FED HAS A S I G N I F I C A N T I M PAC T ON THE QUALIT Y OF T H E M E AT, T H AT ’ S W H Y W E TA K E G R E AT C A R E WHEN CHOOSING OUR ANNE KAIFFER PA R T N ER S .”
TEXT CHAREL HEINEN PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT
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midst the ever-changing cityscape, Boucherie Kaiffer has been a mainstay on Luxembourg City’s Grand-Rue for around 70 years. “Towns and cities need to change in order to survive,” says Anne Kaiffer. Anne’s great-grandfather opened the first butcher’s shop in Wormeldange in 1910. “There was also a small bistro next to the shop, as was the norm back then,” she says. In around 1950, her great-uncle relocated the business to the Grand-Rue in Luxembourg City. Today, Boucherie Kaiffer is a renowned institution in the capital. Anne also grew up in Luxembourg City. “As a child, I didn’t have much to do with the family business,” recalls the master butcher. “With all the knives and machines, it was far too dangerous. But I was always allowed to go down there when the ‘Braderie’ street market was on. I loved doing that!” Yet, Anne was not destined to take over the family business: “Although I always wanted to be a butcher as a child, my father encouraged me to do something else.” And so Anne studied journalism and worked at TV and radio station RTL for a few years. “I enjoyed being a journalist, but after a few years I got bored of reporting on the same old issues time and time again,” she says. She briefly toyed with the idea of opening a traditional Luxembourg bistro, but in the end decided to take over the reins of Boucherie Kaiffer.
When we visit the shop on a Wednesday morning, it is bustling with activity. Four employees are hard at work behind the counter, calmly serving the never-ending stream of customers with a friendly smile. A typical day in the life of this butcher’s shop. Boucherie Kaiffer attracts a diverse clientele: “We get old Luxembourgers, young people and a lot of expats coming in. Especially on Saturdays,” Anne tells us.
A TRADITIONAL TRADE I N A M O D E R N WO R L D She’s always surprised at just how many young people ask for traditional meat products like ‘Kuddelfleck’ (a Luxembourgish tripe dish) and ‘Träipen’ (Luxembourgish black pudding). “I recently had a customer in her early twenties asking for a calf’s head – I thought I wasn’t hearing right!” There’s obviously no shortage of customers, but the future of butchery is facing a different threat: a shortage of young people wanting to train in the trade. “Unfortunately, the skilled trades have a very poor reputation in Luxembourg and are often young people’s third or fourth career choice. Bakeries and many other businesses are also suffering from this. It’s such a shame,” she says. “It’s a different situation in Switzerland, where I trained. Young people there are happy to secure an apprenticeship and take pride in doing a manual job.”
FO C U S O N Q UA L I T Y A N D S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y Boucherie Kaiffer sources its beef and pork exclusively from Luxembourg slaughterhouses that adhere to strict animal husbandry and feeding standards: “How, when and what the animals are fed has a significant impact on the quality of the meat,” explains Anne. “That’s why we take great care when choosing our partners.” The mutton on sale in the shop is only sourced in Luxembourg when in season; the rest of the year, it comes from France. This is something they are very transparent about, because customers want to know where their products come from. Sustainability is also a top priority here. They are reducing the amount of plastic they use and using sustainable packaging materials wherever possible: “It’s vital to rethink practices. At first, our older customers couldn’t get their heads around getting their stew in a cardboard bowl. But everyone gradually got used to it.” Anne also has strong opinions on meat substitutes: “I’ve been on training courses and know what’s in these substitute products. They’re mostly soya-based, which is often bad for the environment and for humans. Of course, you don’t have to eat meat every day. The best diet is a balanced, seasonal diet.” M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N KAIFFER-SARL .LU
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K ACHEN TURNS 10
T HROUGH T HE CH A NGING T I M ES How time flies! This year’s autumn issue of KACHEN is not only our 40th edition of the magazine, but also marks our 10th anniversary. Happy Birthday to us! To mark this very special occasion, we’d like to share with you the story of how KACHEN came to be…
TEXT CHAREL HEINEN
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ACHEN’s story actually begins long before the first ever issue was printed, and is inextricably linked to the life of its publisher and editorin-chief, Bibi Wintersdorf. Bibi started out as a singer at a young age. This opened the door to the media world for her. Upon moving to Cologne with her partner, a German TV presenter, Bibi took up a position as Head of PR and Tourism at the Luxembourg Embassy in Bonn. “I learnt a lot about our country, its customs and traditions,” she recalls. At the beginning of the 1990s, she moved to RTL Television, where she worked as a senior editor and producer and then Head of Children’s Programming. Then, in 1995, following the birth of her daughter, she moved back to Luxembourg, where she set up a production company with her then husband.
FROM TELEVISION TO K I TC H E N But how do you go from TV producer to chef? Well, there was a whole chain of events that led to this. Away from the media hype, Bibi had long been known among her friends and family as a keen cook, a passion she owes to her mother and grandmother: “If you grow up on good home cooking, you take that through with you to adulthood,” she says. Her talent as
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a chef was confirmed when in 2007, Bibi and best friend Christiane Koch, an architect, took part in ‘Cooking Cup’ – a famous German cooking competition for amateur chefs – and, to the pair’s surprise, qualified for the international final in South Africa. This was the event that set the wheels in motion.
A N D S O T H E FO U N DAT I O N WA S L A I D. . . Having already published two coffee-table books about Luxembourg in the 1950s and 1960s, which had won her the prestigious Luxembourg Book Prize, now seemed the right time for a cookbook. “My publisher Manuel Schortgen thought there was a real gap in the market for a modern Luxembourgish cookery book, and that I was the right person to write it,” recalls Bibi. ‘KACHEN’, the cookbook she created together with photographer Claudine Bosseler, was published in 2009. It set the standard for modern Luxembourgish cookery books, and established the ethos to which KACHEN remains true to this day. Because there’s far more to Luxembourgish cuisine than traditional home cooking. Modern Luxembourgers love cosmopolitan cuisine and cooking up dishes with influences from Italy, Portugal, America and Asia. With 55 recipes, the KACHEN cookbook provided a solid foundation for kitchen novices and more seasoned chefs alike, and proved a real hit!
“ I F YO U G R OW U P O N G O O D H O M E C O O K I N G , YO U TA K E T H AT T H R O U G H W I T H YO U T O A D U LT H O O D .” BIBI WINTERSDORF
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“K ACHEN is my culinary connection to Luxembourg!” Tom Hillenbrand Bestselling author
“As a restaurateur, I love checking KACHEN to see what’s new with my colleagues and what’s happening in the Luxembourg culinary scene.” Fränk Manes Chef, Wax
K AC H E N – F R O M C O O K B O O K TO M AGA Z I N E The idea for KACHEN the magazine came to Bibi while working on KACHEN the cookbook: “There wasn’t anything like it in Luxembourg.” It wasn’t an easy decision, but in the end, Bibi left her job at RTL to start her magazine: “It was my husband Maurizio who in particular encouraged me to take the plunge. And I haven’t looked back since,” she says gratefully. The first issue of KACHEN magazine hit the shelves in November 2014. In those early days, Lena Schortgen was co-editor, leaving for pastures new in 2017. The magazine was initially published in German, then also in English, and finally in French. “Publishing KACHEN in other languages had always been very important to me, not least because of my very international circle of friends, who were all keen to read my magazine and support me. Also because Luxembourg is such a multilingual country, something I wanted to reflect and celebrate,” explains Bibi. Over the years, KACHEN has evolved from a simple cookery magazine incorporating local news and features into a food and lifestyle magazine covering a broad range of topics. Culinary delights are still very much the main ingredient, but today are skilfully combined with everything that is good and beautiful. Because, as we all know, enjoyment involves all the senses. “KACHEN has become a highly professional publication,” says Bibi. “What was initially managed by just
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me, my graphic designer Philippe Saliba (now in well-deserved retirement) and our photographer Ramunas Astrauskas is now done by a team of eight.” When Bibi first started her magazine, important backers and advisors such as Manuel Schortgen and master chef Carlo Sauber, whose recipes still feature regularly in KACHEN today, helped get the project off the ground. “KACHEN is my baby, my second child, so to speak,” laughs Bibi. “I’ve helped it grow and seen it develop its own personality over the years...”
K AC H E N FO R E V E R “My greatest wish is for KACHEN to continue, in whatever form that may be,” says Bibi. “I’m always happy and willing to move with the times. What must never change, however, are our high quality standards and our desire to deliver a first-rate product for our readers.” On behalf of the entire editorial team, we’d like to extend a big thank you to all our readers, freelancers and partners for all their support and loyalty over the past ten years. Here’s to another amazing ten years of KACHEN! As a small token of our appreciation, we’d like to share with you the recipe that started it all: the ‘Surf & Turf’ menu that took Bibi and her friend Christiane to the ‘Cooking Cup’ final. Who knows, perhaps the spark of magic that led to the creation of KACHEN magazine will also ignite something in you and inspire you to create something very special...
“We’re Smart Green Guide thrives in over 50 countries, and K ACHEN magazine brings our project both class and global reach – proud to continue our long-standing partnership.” Frank Fol Chef, Founder & Chairman of We’re Smart World
“A magazine full of innovative kitchen ideas and exciting information, all presented with stunning photos and a design that rivals the best!” Pia Kontz Artist and loyal reader
“A gourmet journey on paper that has accompanied me through the seasons for ten years now. Bon appétit and happy anniversary to K ACHEN and the entire team at K ACHEN!” Marc Hoffmann Managing Director Losch & Cie Junglinster (form. Cactus)
“We Luxembourgers are gourmets. We love good food, and I especially do! Where to go, what to try and what to cook next? For ten years, K ACHEN has been providing valuable inspiration. Avec amour.” Léa Linster Chef
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“Bibi has created a culinary source of inspiration and information that truly goes beyond the plate, addressing the working and living conditions of producers and promoting fair trade, contributing to responsible enjoyment.” Jean-Louis Zeien President of Fairtrade
From Lithuania to the USA to Luxembourg: Since 2015, photographer Ramunas Astrauskas has been bringing his unique vision to the KACHEN team.
A creative partnership: Graphic designer Philippe Saliba has been shaping KACHEN since its debut issue.
“For Luxembourg, K ACHEN ser ves as a showcase of culinary expertise, traditions and innovations.” Paul Marceul Director of the Luxembourg Chamber of Agriculture
“K ACHEN magazine is like a great recipe: a generous mix of expertise and passion for a delicious result!” Jeff Oberweis CEO Oberweis S. A .
Rising from the water: When a loyal reader lost her KACHEN collection to flooding, the team gifted her a complete new set.
Luxurious beginnings: The historic Villeroy & Boch castle in Rollingergrund hosted one of KACHEN’s first grand photo shoots.
“K ACHEN has undoubtedly grown into one of the key supporters of the hospitality sector in Luxembourg and beyond over the past ten years.” Michel Lanners Director of the Luxembourg School of Hospitality (ETHL)
“K ACHEN is currently the best in Luxembourg when it comes to communication in the gastronomy and lifestyle sector.” Cyril Molard Two-star chef, Ma Langue Sourit
“Happy 10th anniversary! Your creativity and professionalism have been crucial to the success of our projects, and we thank you for your continued support. Here’s to many more years of this wonderful collaboration!” René Mathieu Michelin-starred chef,
Hot off the press: The thrill of seeing KACHEN’s first pages emerge never fades!
La Distillerie
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RECIPE BIBI WINTERSDORF & CHRISTIANE KOCH PHOTO ENIA HAECK
WASABI PURÉE WITH L A MB FILLE T & HONE Y- GINGER L ANG OUS TINE SERVES 4
60 MINUTES
For the langoustines • 4 x 2 langoustines tails • Fresh ginger (5 cm) • 4 tbsp acacia honey • 250 ml dry white wine • 4 tbsp balsamic vinegar • 1 lemon • 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper • Salt • 1 tsp black Hawaiian salt • 1 tbsp coriander jus (made from coriander and oil; for decoration) • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar • 1 tsp red pepper • Fresh coriander For the lamb fillets • 4 lamb fillets • 200 ml lamb stock • 50 ml cognac • 50 g butter • Corn oil For the mashed potatoes • 500 g soft-boiled potatoes • 100 g butter • 100 ml milk • 1-2 tsp wasabi paste For the bananas • 3-4 baby bananas • 500 ml oil for frying For the molecular quail egg yolks • 200 ml fruit juice (passion fruit, mango) • 5 g sodium alginate • 10 g calcium chloride dihydrat
The mashed potatoes 1 Boil the potatoes in salted water
until soft, drain and roughly mash. Melt the butter in the milk, stir in the wasabi paste and mix into the mashed potatoes. The bananas 1 Cut the bananas lengthways into
2 mm-thin slices and deep-fry in hot oil until crispy. Drain on kitchen paper.
3 Bring the honey to the boil in
a pan until it caramelises slightly, then deglaze with white wine, add the remaining chopped ginger and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the langoustines and leave to stew for about three minutes (do not boil!). Remove the langoustines and keep warm. Add the balsamic vinegar to the jus and reduce to a syrup. Flavour with salt, pepper and lemon.
The fruit yolks or ‘fake quail eggs’ 1 Mix the fruit juice with the
The lamb fillets
alginate until the consistency is slightly thick (but still liquid, not pasty), then mix approx. 1 teaspoon of calcium chloride with 300 ml of water and drop quail egg-sized fruit balls into the solution with a spoon. 2 Next, remove the ‘fruit eggs’ from the solution with a small spoon or ladle (only leave them in the solution until the outer skin has gelled) and rinse carefully in clear water or simply place briefly in a bowl of clear water. Alternatively, you can also prepare ‘fruit caviar’ using a pipette by dripping the fruit purée into the solution.
1 Drain the lamb fillets, season
The langoustine 1 Cut matchstick-sized sticks
from the ginger. 2 Peel the langoustines, stud with
half the ginger sticks, season with pepper, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, wrap in cling film and leave to marinate in the fridge for 30 minutes.
with salt and pepper and sear all over in a pan in hot corn oil. Wrap in aluminium foil and keep warm in an oven preheated to a maximum of 70°C. Add 200 ml of lamb stock to the pan and deglaze with cognac. Flambé briefly, then thicken with ice-cold butter. Remove the meat from the oven and cut each fillet into 2-3 pieces. The garnish 1 Using a serving ring, place the
purée in the centre of the plate. Arrange the baby banana slices on top of the purée. Arrange 2-3 pieces of lamb fillet to the left and 1 piece of langoustine to the right of the purée. Drizzle the meat with the gravy and the langoustine with the ginger-balsamic reduction. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves, red pepper and black Hawaiian salt. Place a fruit egg on a Chinese spoon next to it and sprinkle with a little pepper.
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10 YEARS, 40 ISSUES Immerse yourself in the world of KACHEN – our collection of 40 magazine covers tells our journey from humble beginnings to today’s success story. Whether you’re a loyal reader who’s been with us for a decade or a newcomer who might be missing an issue or two, you’ll find what you’re looking for in our shop. Simply scan the QR code and discover our entire range: individual issues, collector’s corner and subscriptions. This includes our magazine REESEN, now featuring international recipes for various travel destinations.
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FOR A HIGH PROTEIN DAY
HIGH PROTEIN
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AT P T H E R A P E U T I C W O R K S H O P S
Luxembourg non-profit association ATP groups together several therapeutic workshop sites, and is this year celebrating its 35th anniversary. ATP’s workshops provide work for people with a mental illness and are part of a national network of mental health care services.
TEXT MARION FINZI PHOTOS ENIA HAECK
“W
e support those suffering from mental health issues with their reintegration into society and work,” says Sandrine Bem, Director of ATP’s sites. Future ATP employees are referred to the association by doctors in cases where it is thought that work will help them with their recovery. “When we receive applications, we look closely at a number of factors to match applicants with the right job for them: their experience and interests, motor skills, and the reason why they want to join us. We want to avoid failure at all costs – that would be terrible for the person concerned,” explains Bem. A psychologist is on site to help people learn about and understand mental illness. “Our workshop managers have trained on the job, simply by working alongside the people we employ,” she says. Henri Pater, head of the metalwork workshop, confirms this: “I’ve learnt patience from working with them. You simply have to accept that everyone works at their own pace, and then it’s all good.” In 35 years, ATP has seen many employees retire. Others sometimes manage to make the move into the private sector, as Guy Meis, head of the joinery workshop for the past 20 years, tells us: “One of my employees is about to leave to take up an apprenticeship after ten years here. During his time with us, he’s not only learnt how to work with wood, but also how to work with his illness. I’m incredibly proud of all he’s achieved, and he should be, too!”
35 YEARS, 6 SITES Over the past 35 years, six sites have opened across Luxembourg. Agriculture, screen printing, basket-weaving, sewing... It seems there’s nothing the ATP can’t do, thanks in particular to its highly motivated director and a dedicated team. Reporting from an event being held at the Kehlen site, what really stood out is how ATP is also one big happy family. So, let us introduce you to some of the ATP family…
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© GERY OTH
FA R MOR E T H A N J UST A JOB
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“ I ’ V E L E A R N T PAT I E N C E F R O M W O R K I N G W I T H T H E M . Y O U S I M P LY H A V E T O A C C E P T T H AT E V E R YO N E W O R K S AT T H E I R OW N PAC E , A N D T H EN I T ’ S A L L G O O D.” H E N R I PAT E R
T H E ‘ M OT H E R ’: AT E L I E R K I E L E N E R
© YA N N N E Y
With its restaurant open daily for lunch, feeding the workers of Kehlen industrial estate, and its sewing, metalwork and joinery workshops, the Kehlen site has 55 workers. “They can turn their hand to anything here. They’re amazing,” says Patrick from Absolute Blue, a company that has been working with ATP for five years. “We always approach Atelier Kielener first before any other supplier. And if they can’t take on whatever the work is, we go elsewhere. But they never say no! It’s like a family – we know everyone by name,” he adds. The nine workers in the joinery workshop make cane furniture, beehives and wooden sheds. The fourteen metalworkers carry out maintenance on Cactus supermarket trolleys and make iron garden sculptures, among other things, including a giant paella pan for the kitchen. Upstairs, Isabelle Malena, master seamstress and head of the sewing workshop, supervises seven people and works on a lot of upcycling projects.
T H E N E W E S T A D D I T I O N : T H E W I LT Z SITE AND ITS ARTISAN BARS At Atelier Hondsburren, employees make cereal bars using traditional methods and as many local ingredients as possible. “They’ve just picked 50 kg of strawberries, which they’ll dry and use in the bars,” says Sandrine Bem. Available in several different flavours (honey, chocolate, fruit) depending on the season, the ‘Wonnerbars’ are sold in Cactus stores. With a director brimming with ideas, the ATP adventure is set to continue for many years to come. A wonderful example of integration that’s well worth supporting.
AT P A . S . B . L . 8 , ZO N E I N D U S T R I EL L E L- 8 2 8 7 K EH L EN AT P. L U
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ADVERTORIAL
C ACT US & HERV É MONS: A DEC A DE OF PA RT N ER SHIP For ten years now, Luxembourgish supermarket company Cactus and internationally renowned master affineur Hervé Mons have been working together to offer consumers in Luxembourg an exceptional cheese experience.
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n ode to cheese: This is how you could describe the career of Hervé Mons. After completing his training at the École Nationale de l’Industrie Laitière (French national dairy industry school), Hervé Mons spent four years working at farms and creameries across France, perfecting his art. His exceptional talent earned him the prestigious title of ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ in 2000. Innovation is his passion. In 2008, together with his brother Laurent, he converted a 180-metre-long former railway tunnel into a unique ageing cellar. Hervé Mons is committed to the protection of endangered cattle breeds and has set up his own artisan cheese dairy, where he produces Fourme de Montbrison PDO and other fine cheeses.
T H E A R T O F A F F I N AG E “Affinage is the process of maturing a cheese, ripening it, letting it age, making sure it gets everything it needs and that everything is just right: water, air, temperature...” says Hervé Mons. “Depending on the terroir, the cheeses are placed on straw, wood, stone or earth. They remain in the cellar for anything from a few days to several months. They are turned, brushed, checked. It’s a very delicate process, working with a living substance, whereby even the tiniest grain of sand (or salt) can pose a real danger. Nothing can be left to chance.” This meticulous approach is at the heart of Hervé Mons’ partnership with Cactus, and guarantees cheeses of exceptional quality.
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C AC T U S E X P E R T I S E S E RV I N G C U S TO M E R S Cactus cheesemongers are trained directly by Hervé Mons, ensuring unparalleled expertise in its supermarkets. This intensive training enables Cactus cheese specialists to master the art of affinage, cutting and advising. They learn to recognise the subtleties of each cheese, how it develops and the perfect time to taste it. Cheesemongers trained by Hervé Mons are at your service at the cheese counters in the following Cactus supermarkets: Belle Étoile, Bascharage, Howald, Bereldange, Bettembourg, Ingeldorf, Remich, Mersch and Roodtsur-Syre. They will be more than happy to advise you and, on request, to put together a Hervé Mons cheese platter for you. These platters are presented in an elegant wooden box designed by the master affineur himself – a delicious eye-catcher on any table.
2 0 0 VA R I E T I E S TO C H O O S E F R O M From famous fromage Comté to delightful discoveries such as Epoisses Fermier – thanks to this collaboration, Cactus customers can choose from more than 200 types of cheese. These cheeses come directly from the ageing cellars of Hervé Mons. 100 small producers are responsible for their production. Only farm products and traditional manual techniques are used, to guarantee authentic, exceptional cheeses. The master cheesemakers strive for perfection, refining texture, aromas and flavours to bring out the best in each and every cheese. This partnership embodies the Cactus philosophy of combining international excellence with local commitment to offer its customers only the best. Together with Hervé Mons, Cactus continues to give consumers in Luxembourg cheese experiences of a very special kind. Cactus cheese counters invite all lovers of cheese and cheese connoisseurs to discover a whole range of authentic products that are the result of a decade of the shared passion of two exceptional companies. A delectable decade of partnership – that’s definitely something worth celebrating!
“A F F I N A G E I S T H E P R O C E S S O F M AT U R I N G A C H E E S E , M A K I N G S U R E T H AT E V E R Y T H I N G I S J U S T R I G H T: HERVÉ MONS WAT E R , A I R , T E M P E R AT U R E . . .”
M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N CACTUS.LU
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CITY PORTRAIT
W I LT Z
A N ILLUST R IOUS PA ST & ILLUM INAT IONS Nestled in the north of Luxembourg lies a town rich in history. Known as ‘the capital of the Ardennes’, Wiltz is proud of its past, which it showcases to visitors through a fantastic range of cultural trails, monuments and museums. Top tip: Much of Wiltz is on a steep hill, so make sure you wear suitable footwear to explore the town!
TEXT MARION FINZI P H OTO S C O M M U N E D E W I LT Z
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hortly after the end of the Second World War, Wiltz was named ‘Martyr Town’ in commemoration of the horrific battles that took place six kilometres down the road at the strategic junction of ‘Schumann’s Eck’ in 1944 and 1945, but above all in honour of the people of Wiltz who fought so valiantly against the occupiers (in particular during the 1942 general strike – see below). Numerous monuments have been erected to ensure that we never forget this dark period in the history of Luxembourg and the town of Wiltz. The town’s Museum of
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the Battle of the Bulge takes visitors on an immersive journey back in time to discover what life was like for families and soldiers in war-time Luxembourg. The museum also tells visitors about the American troops who were stationed in Wiltz for a number of weeks in 1944, including, for example, the story of the American GI who dressed up as Saint Nicholas and was driven through town in a jeep, handing out sweets to children. Wiltz’s brewing heritage is a far more cheerful facet of the town’s history. This year marks the 200th
F R O M W I LT Z , THERE ARE A M U LT I T U D E O F HIKING TRAILS YO U C A N S E T O FF ON TO DISCOVER .
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anniversary of Brasserie Simon, a brewery founded in 1824 by a tanner. In those days, Wiltz was best known for its tanneries. Brasserie Simon has remained a family business (five generations) ever since, and today employs around twenty people, most of whom were born in Wiltz. Its ‘Okult’ and ‘Ourdaller’ wheat beers are popular with beer lovers, and can be found in bars across the country. The National Museum of the Art of Brewing, based in Wiltz Castle, tells you more about the history of Brasserie Simon and other Luxembourg breweries, with a wealth of exhibits to admire (advertising posters, glasses, taps) and fun facts. You can also try your hand at brewing your own beer in the castle’s microbrewery, and come back and collect it one month later. A great idea for a fun activity with friends!
B E WA R E : I T ’ S S T E E P !
THE ‘NUITS DES LAMPIONS’ LIGHT S H OW, H EL D I N S EP T E M B ER , I S A H I G H L I G H T I N W I LT Z ’ S C A L E N D A R .
If you want to explore the whole town, you’ll need to park in one of the public car parks. The Tourist Office proposes two cultural trails: one in the upper town and one in the lower town. But be prepared (and warned!) – there are some steep streets to climb! From Kaul campsite, it’s just a few metres’ walk to your first cultural landmark: the monument to Luxembourg poet Michel Rodange and his famous Renert (fox), the poem he wrote while living in Wiltz. If you turn to admire the view, you’ll see on the hill in the distance the shrine of Our Lady of Fatima (erected after the war), where thousands of Catholic pilgrims gather every year in May. A little further uphill, you’ll come to the 23-metre-high National Strike Monument, commemorating the general strike led by local industrialists against forced conscription into the Nazi army. Those who take on the extra climb up the narrow spiral staircase with its hundred or so steps will be rewarded with a splendid view of the town.
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A N D E R GA E S S E N 2 5 D U ER F S T R O O S S L-96 5 1 EE S C HWEL L ER WO L Z GAESSEN.LU
BEIM SCHL ASS 1 G R AND -R U E L-9 5 3 0 WILT Z BEIMSCHLASS.LU
Keep going! Just a few more metres’ climb and you’ll arrive at Wiltz Castle, with its cobbled courtyard and two family-friendly museums. The trail then continues along the Grand-Rue, and finishes higher uphill with a visit to the Jardin de Wiltz. This ‘garden of art’ covers 2.5 hectares and is maintained by people from the Coopérations sheltered workshop. From Wiltz, there are a multitude of hiking trails you can set off on to discover such delights as the river Wiltz, the Himmelbaach stream and the flora typical of the Ardennes (‘Sentier de la Wiltz’). Experienced hikers can explore the Luxembourg Ardennes between Clervaux, Kautenbach and Wiltz via the western part of the Éislek region.
T H E M AG I C O F W I LT Z The ‘Nuits des Lampions’ light show, held in September, is a highlight in Wiltz’s calendar. Hundreds of paper lanterns, made by the Coopérations sheltered workshop in collabora-
tion with national and international artists, will once again this year (20 and 21 September) be on display in the heart of the leafy, flower-filled Jardin de Wiltz, lighting up the starry sky. A magical night under the stars for all the family. During the summer months, the Tourist Office organises a packed programme of themed activities to show Wiltz at its best. These activities include night-time torch-lit walks and, for sports enthusiasts, e-mountain bike tours of the town and guided ‘Hike and Like’ walks to discover Wiltz’s vibrant arts and crafts scene. We’re already looking forward to next summer and the famous Wiltz Festival, with its superb open-air concerts. The festival is a unique opportunity to see international stars perform live, like Birdy this year, as well as other bands from all over Europe. Since the first edition of the festival in 1953, all concerts have been held in the amphitheatre in Wiltz Castle – a stunning venue for a remarkable music experience.
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FOOD
SEASONAL MENU
LOWC A R B LU NCH When you’re reducing your carb intake it’s time to think outside the lunchbox. With a little preparation the night before, salads, soups and meat, can easily be packaged and made portable.
SPICED CARROT SOUP WITH SMOKED AL MONDS SERVES 4 50 MINUTES
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil • 2 medium brown onions, chopped coarsely
• 20 g fresh ginger, grated finely • 2 tsp ground cumin • 1 tsp ground coriander • ½ cinnamon stick • 1 kg carrots, cut into 1 cm rounds • 500 ml vegetable stock • 750 ml water • 200 g Greek-style yoghurt • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • ½ small red onion, sliced thinly • 40 g chopped smoked almonds • 8 sprigs fresh cilantro 1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over
a medium heat; cook brown onion, stirring, until soft. 2 Add the ginger, cumin, ground coriander and cinnamon to the pan; cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add the carrot, stock and water; bring to the boil. Reduce the heat; simmer, covered, for 20 minutes or until the carrots are soft. 3 Remove the cinnamon stick. Stand soup for 10 minutes. 4 Meanwhile, combine the yoghurt and garlic in a small bowl. 5 Blend the soup in batches until smooth (or use a stick blender). Return the soup to the same pan; stir over a medium heat until hot. Season. 6 Ladle the soup into serving bowls; top with the yoghurt mixture, red onion, almonds and coriander. Sprinkle with pepper.
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SEASONAL MENU
Z A’ATAR CHICKPE A & VEGE TABLE SAL AD SERVES 4 45 MINUTES
• 400 g butternut squash, unpeeled • 1 large red onion, cut into thin wedges • 1 medium red bell pepper, sliced thickly • 1 medium yellow bell pepper, sliced thickly
• 400 g rainbow baby carrots, trimmed • 2 tbsp olive oil • 400 g canned chickpeas, drained, rinsed • 2 tbsp za’atar • 60 ml red wine vinegar • 60 ml olive oil, extra virgin • 60 g red veined sorrel or baby spinach leaves
• 100 g Persian feta, crumbled • Some lightly packed small fresh mint leaves
1 Preheat the oven to 220°C. Line a large
oven tray with baking paper. 2 Cut the unpeeled pumpkin into thin
wedges; halve crossways. Place the squash, onion, bell peppers and carrots, in a single layer, on the oven tray; drizzle with half the oil, then season. Bake for 25 minutesor until tender. 3 Meanwhile, place the chickpeas on another baking-paper-lined oven tray. Drizzle with the remaining oil, sprinkle with za’atar; toss gently to coat. Bake for 25 minutes or until golden and crisp. 4 Whisk the vinegar and extra virgin oil in a small bowl; season. 5 Pour the dressing into two 500 ml jars. Layer all the ingredients in jars finishing with feta and chickpeas.
TIP
This salad makes a great portable lunch, simply secure the lid to seal the jar and off you go. When you’re ready to serve, turn the lidded jars upside down to disperse the dressing.
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SEASONAL MENU
ROAS TED TOM ATO & WHITE BE AN SOUP SERVES 4
70 MINUTES
• 1 kg ripe Roma tomatoes, quartered • 1 medium red onion, cut into wedges • 6 cloves garlic, unpeeled • 1 tbsp maple syrup • 125 ml extra virgin olive oil
• A cup loosely packed sage leaves • 400 g canned cannellini beans,
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C.
4 Peel the roasted garlic. Blend the garlic,
2 Place the tomatoes, onion and garlic in a
onion, two-thirds of the tomatoes and two-thirds of the beans until smooth. Pour the mixture into a large saucepan with the water and remaining beans; cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally until warmed through. Season to taste. 5 Ladle soup into bowls. Top with the remaining tomatoes, crisp sage leaves and drizzle with the reserved sage oil.
roasting pan. Combine the maple syrup and half the oil in a bowl, season to taste; pour over the vegetables, then toss to coat. Roast for 45 minutes or until the tomatoes are very soft and coloured at the edges. 3 Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a small frying pan over a medium heat; fry the sage leaves, stirring for 1 minute or until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon; drain on a paper towel. Set aside the sage oil.
drained, rinsed
• 500 ml water
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SEASONAL MENU
V EGGIE SNACK S BE AN & TOM ATO SERVES 4
SERVES 4
20 MINUTES
20 MINUTES
• 250 g green beans • 2 tsp balsamic vinegar • 100 g grape tomatoes, quartered • 2 tbsp toasted pine nuts • 1 tsp pistachio dukkha
• 2 slices shortcut bacon, chopped • 1 large avocado, coarsely chopped • 1 green onion, thinly sliced • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 tbsp lemon juice
1 Cut the green beans into 1 cm pieces.
1 Cook the shortcut bacon slices in a non-stick
2 Boil, steam or microwave the beans until
frying pan over medium-high heat until browned and crisp; drain. 2 Place the coarsely chopped avocado, green onion and half the bacon in a small bowl. Whisk the olive oil and lemon juice in a small jug; season. 3 Pour the dressing over the salsa; toss to combine. Top with the remaining bacon.
just tender. 3 Refresh under cold water to cool; drain well. Place the beans, balsamic vinegar, quartered grape tomatoes and toasted pine nuts in a small bowl; toss to combine. Sprinkle with pistachio dukkha.
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AVOCADO & BACON
SEASONAL MENU
AUBERGINE & CHILLI
BELL PEPPER & FE TA
SERVES 4
SERVES 4
50 MINUTES
30 MINUTES
• 1 large aubergine (500 g) • ½ small red onion • 1 long red chilli, thinly sliced • 1 tbsp lemon thyme leaves • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil • 1 tbsp lemon juice • 1 tbsp ground sumac
• 1 medium red bell pepper • 1 medium yellow bell pepper • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar • 1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly torn • 25 g goat’s cheese feta, crumbled • 1 tbsp olive oil • Pepper
1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Pierce the aubergine
1 Quarter the red and yellow bell pepper; discard
with a fork; place on an oven tray. Bake for 30 minutes or until just tender. Stand 10 minutes. 2 When cool enough to handle, cut in two, remove inner part with a spoon and coarsely chop; place in a bowl with the finely chopped red onion, chilli and lemon thyme leaves. Season. Whisk the extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice and ground sumac in a small jug; pour over the aubergine mixture, toss to combine.
the seeds and membranes. 2 Roast under a hot grill, skin-side up, until skin
blisters and blackens. Place in a heatproof bowl, cover with plastic wrap; stand 5 minutes. Peel away the skin, then cut into strips. Combine the bell peppers, white wine vinegar and loosely packed torn fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves in a bowl; season. Top with the goat’s cheese feta; drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Season with pepper.
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SEASONAL MENU
VEGE TABLE CURRY OMELE T TES SERVES 4 20 MINUTES
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 75 g massaman curry paste • 1 medium carrot, coarsely grated • 1 medium bell pepper, cut into matchsticks
• 230 g baby corn, halved lengthways
• 3 eggs • 1 tbsp water • 40 g bean sprouts • 15 g lightly packed fresh mint leaves • 15 g lightly packed fresh Thai basil leaves
1 Heat half the vegetable oil in a
medium saucepan over a medium heat; cook the curry paste for 2 minutes or until fragrant. Stir in the coconut milk and sesame oil; bring to a simmer. Add the carrot, bell pepper and corn; simmer, uncovered, for 3 minutes or until tender. Season to taste. 2 Meanwhile, heat 1 teaspoon of the remaining vegetable oil in a small 20 cm nonstick frying pan over a medium heat. Whisk the eggs and the water. Pour half the egg mixture into the pan, swirl to coat the base; cook for 1 minute or until golden underneath. Turn or flip the omelette, cook for a further 30 seconds, transfer to a warmed plate. Repeat with the remaining vegetable oil and egg mixture. 3 Divide the vegetable curry mixture and sprouts between the omelettes, fold the omelettes over. Serve topped with herbs.
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EASE SELVA Share unforgettable dining moments with Ease Selva
SHOP ONLINE
RAK Porcelain Europe S.A. • T +352 26 360 665 info@rakporcelaineurope.com • www.rakporcelain.com
SEASONAL MENU
ROAS T BEEF & WATERCRES S SAL AD
SERVES 4 30 MINUTES
• 1 tbsp olive oil • 600 g piece beef tenderloin • 1 cucumber, peeled into ribbons • 125 g cherry tomatoes, halved • 125 g baby Roma tomatoes, halved • 100 g watercress • 1 small red onion, sliced thinly For the horseradish buttermilk dressing • 125 ml buttermilk • 100 g mayonnaise • 1 tbsp finely grated fresh horseradish • 1 clove garlic, crushed • 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2 Heat the oil in a medium ovenproof
baking dish over a medium-high heat; cook the beef, turning, until browned. Roast in the oven, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until cooked as desired. Remove from the oven; rest, covered, for 5 minutes before slicing thinly. 3 Meanwhile, make the horseradish buttermilk dressing. Place the buttermilk, mayonnaise, horseradish and garlic in a screwtop jar; shake well. Season with salt; sprinkle with pepper. 4 Place beef in a large bowl with the cucumber, tomatoes, watercress and onion; toss gently to combine. 5 Serve the salad with the dressing.
TIP
The beef can be cooked up to 2 hours ahead; cover, refrigerate until required.
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SEASONAL MENU
CHICKEN WITH COURGE T TE & SAL SA VERDE SERVES 4 30 MINUTES
• 4 chicken breast fillets (800 g), halved lengthways
• 1 tbsp olive oil • 5 medium courgettes (400 g) • 25 g flaked almonds, toasted • 100 g goat’s cheese feta, crumbled • 1 handful fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves For the salsa verde • 30 g coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley • 15 g coarsely chopped fresh basil • 1 clove garlic, crushed • 2 tsp drained baby capers, rinsed • 1 tsp Dijon mustard • 60 ml olive oil • 2 tsp red wine vinegar
1 Season the chicken. Heat the oil in
a large frying pan over a mediumhigh heat; cook the chicken, in batches, for 4 minutes each side or until browned and cooked through. Remove from the pan; cover to keep warm. 2 Using a vegetable spiraliser, cut the courgettes into spirals. 3 Make the salsa verde. Combine the herbs, garlic and capers in a small bowl, whisk in the mustard, oil and vinegar until thickened. 4 Serve the chicken with the courgettes topped with the salsa verde, almonds, feta and parsley.
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SEASONAL MENU
VIE TNA MESE PR AWN SAL AD SERVES 4 30 MINUTES
• 2 tbsp fish sauce • 1 tbsp coconut sugar • 1 fresh long red chilli, sliced thinly • 1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger • 1 clove garlic, crushed • 60 ml lime juice • 2 tbsp peanut oil • 1 large carrot, cut into ribbons • 120 g daikon, cut into matchsticks • 50 g trimmed watercress • 2 green onions (scallions), cut into strips
• 1 stalk celery, trimmed, cut into matchsticks
• 200 g yellow grape tomatoes, squashed
• 15 g fresh mint leaves • 10 g fresh coriander leaves • 15 g fresh Thai basil leaves • 16 cooked king prawns (800 g), peeled, tails intact
• Lime wedges, to ser ve 1 Place the fish sauce, coconut sugar,
chilli, ginger, garlic, juice and oil in a screw-top jar; shake well. 2 Place the carrot, daikon, watercress, green onion, celery, tomatoes, herbs and prawns in a large bowl with half the dressing; toss gently to combine. 3 Serve the salad with the lime wedges and the remaining dressing.
TIP
The salad and dressing can be made a day ahead, store separately. Add the dressing to the salad just before serving.
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T
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A C O M P R E H E N S I V E C O L L EC T I O N TO S U I T A L L TA S T E S Quooker offers a wide range of taps to suit every style of kitchen. From the classic ‘Nordic’ model to the more contemporary ‘Fusion’ design and the ‘Flex’, with its flexible pull-out hose, there’s something to suit every taste. Finishes range from chrome to brass, stainless steel and even matt black, to complement your kitchen aesthetic perfectly. The Quooker system consists of a tap on the worktop and a compact tank in the cabinet under the sink. And for those who desire chilled and filtered still and sparkling water fresh from their Quooker tap, there’s also the Quooker CUBE, which can be seamlessly connected to your tap! Although its taps dispense boiling water, Quooker has prioritised safety in their design. The jet of boiling water is aerated to prevent splashing, and taps are fitted with a child-safe handle. What’s more, the tap itself doesn’t heat up, making it safe and easy to use. Quooker is revolutionising our kitchens, combining practicality, economy and style in a single tap. This Dutch innovation is available in Luxembourg from a number of leading kitchen designers.
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QUICK & EASY
AU T UM N MOOD! September heralds in some slightly shorter but still very mild evenings. We’ve come up with some quick and easy recipes to bid farewell to summer and welcome autumn: butternut squash hummus, sweet potato pizza or lemon mousse for a tangy end to the meal. So let’s cook – we promise you it’ll be quick and easy!
R E C I P E S & P H O T O S PAU L A S O R YA N O
BUT TERNUT HUMMUS WITH FE TA SERVES 4–6 30 MINUTES
• 300 g butternut (frozen cubes or fresh) • 2 garlic cloves • 200 g cooked chickpeas drained • 50 g tahini paste • 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice • ½ tsp cumin • ½ tsp salt, plus more for sprinkling • 4 tbsp olive oil • 4 tbsp cold water • 2 dashes of pepper To garnish • ¼ pomegranate arils • 50 g feta cheese • 2 tbsp chopped parsley • 2 tbsp microgreens, optional • 1 tbsp squash seeds, optional • A drizzle of olive oil • Pita, crackers (or veggies)
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C and line a
baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the butternut on the baking sheet and toss with a drizzle of olive oil and a few pinches of salt and pepper. Peel the garlic and place on the baking sheet. Roast the butternut for 20 minutes or until it is tender. Let cool slightly. 2 In a food processor, combine the roasted squash, roasted peeled garlic, chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, salt and spices. 3 With the blade running, drizzle in the olive oil. Add cold water, as needed, to blend to a smooth consistency. Taste and adjust seasonings. 4 Scoop the hummus into a serving bowl and top with pomegranate arils, feta, parsley, microgreens, if using, and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve with toasted pita, crackers, and/or chopped veggies.
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QUICK & EASY
HALLOUMI & VEG GIE SKE WERS SERVES 4
20 MINUTES
• 300 g Halloumi • 2 bell peppers • 10 cherry tomatoes • 1 red onion • 200 g cooked rice (for ser ving)
• 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 tsp salt • 1 pinch of pepper For the sauce • 100 g tahini paste (sesame paste) • 80 ml cold water • 20 ml lemon juice or orange juice • 1 small garlic clove (optional) • 1 pinch of salt
1 Whisk together the sauce ingredients in a medium
bowl until emulsified and smooth. Add garlic if desired. 2 Prepare the rice according to the packaging instructions. 3 Cut the peppers and onion into medium slices, dice the Halloumi. 4 Thread the bell pepper, onion, tomatoes, and Halloumi evenly onto wooden skewers. Place the skewers on a baking sheet, and brush evenly with olive oil and salt. 5 Preheat the oven to 200°C in grill position. Place the skewers on a baking tray, turning occasionally, until tender and lightly charred, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a platter. 6 Drizzle the tahini sauce on the skewers and serve immediately with rice and a pinch of pepper.
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QUICK & EASY
CRISPY BRUSSELS SPROUTS SERVES 4 35 MINUTES
• 500 g Brussels sprouts • 50 g flour • 60 g breadcrumbs • 50 g butter • 50 g Parmesan • 2 tsp garlic powder • 1 tsp salt • 2 dashes of pepper • 2 large eggs • Fresh coriander leaves (for ser ving) For the sauce • 2 tbsp mayonnaise • 2 tbsp mustard • Juice of a ¼ lemon • 2 tsp dry oregano
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2 Set out three wide, shallow bowls. In one,
stir together the flour, salt and pepper. 3 In the second bowl, whisk the eggs well
to combine. 4 In the third bowl, mix together the
breadcrumbs, Parmesan, garlic powder and melted butter. 5 Working in batches, dredge the Brussels sprouts first in the flour mixture, then in the egg, then in the breadcrumb mixture, tossing well to coat fully. 6 Transfer the Brussels sprouts to a baking sheet and spread them into an even layer. 7 Bake until the Brussels sprouts are golden brown, tossing occasionally, 20 to 25 minutes. 8 In a medium bowl, whisk together all the ingredients for the sauce. 9 Season the Brussels sprouts with flaky salt to taste. Serve immediately, with fresh coriander and the sauce for dipping.
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QUICK & EASY
PIZ Z A WITH SWEE T P OTATO & CAR A MELISED ONIONS 2–3 PORTIONS
• 250 g pizza dough • 1 big sweet potato (about 350 g) • 1 tsp honey • ½ tsp cardamom • 1 tsp paprika • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 red onion • 120 ml apple cider • 1 tbsp butter • 200 g sliced Italian ham • 200 g mozzarella • 100 g blue cheese • 3 tsp thyme • Fresh basil leaves for ser ving • ½ tsp salt + 1 pinch • 1 pinch of pepper
40 MINUTES 1 Position the oven rack in the upper 1/3 level. Preheat the oven to 210°C. 2 Place the ball of pizza dough on a lightly oiled quarter sheet pan. Lightly drizzle
olive oil on top of the dough ball. Cover with a plastic wrap and let rest. 3 On a baking sheet, toss together the olive oil, diced sweet potato, honey, cardamom,
a pinch of salt, and pepper. Roast for 15-20 minutes, until the sweet potato is just tender and remove from oven. 4 Increase the oven to 240°C. 5 Meanwhile, caramelise the onions. Melt the butter in a large skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add the onions and cook 3 minutes, until softened. Add half the apple cider, season with salt and continue cooking another 5 minutes, until the cider has mostly evaporated. Add the remaining cider and cook another 5 minutes or until the onions are golden and caramelised. Remove from the heat. 6 Remove the plastic wrap from the pizza dough. Gently press the dough until it covers the entire sheet pan. Add the sliced mozzarella, then the prosciutto. Top with the onion. Arrange the roasted sweet potatoes on top. Lastly, add blue cheese and sprinkle with thyme. 7 Slide into the preheated oven and bake for 10 minutes, rotate the pizza, and bake another 3-5 minutes or until the crust is golden and the cheese has melted.
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QUICK & EASY
LEMON MOUS SE SERVES 6 15 MINUTES
• 3 eggs • 3 lemons + zest • 300 g mascarpone • 2 tbsp sour cream • 90 g sugar • 1.5 tsp agar agar • 150 g breakfast biscuits • 1 pinch of salt • Dark chocolate shavings 1 In a food processor, mix the biscuits
for a few seconds to obtain a crumb base for the lemon mousse. 2 Grate the lemons to obtain the zest. Then squeeze them and bring the resulting juice to the boil with the agar-agar for 2-4 minutes until the mix turns lightly creamy. Let cool. 3 Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until white and foamy. 4 Add the zest, mascarpone, sour cream and cooled lemon juice into a bowl; whisk to combine well. 5 Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt and gently incorporate them into the lemon cream, lifting the mass with a spatula (maryse). 6 Pour the mousse into the glasses on the bed of biscuit crumbs and chill for at least 3 hours before serving. 7 Decorate with grated dark chocolate shavings or lemon zest.
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Pino C. wrote a review (15 Aug.) Live from the whale’s belly • 71 contributions • 14 helpful votes
Without lies, the best piano bar in town. Plus
You, too, can live a real fairy tale. Enjoy an exceptional moment at the hotel Le Royal! Immerse yourself in luxury, comfort and live music at the Piano Bar. Sip cocktails while listening to a live jazz concert. Lively nights, escapism and cigars for the connoisseurs. Your happiness starts here. Le Royal Hotels & Resorts 12, boulevard Royal • L-2449 Luxembourg T (+352) 24 16 16 734 • restauration-lux@leroyal.com piano-bar.lu
Z E LT ’ S W O R L D
R E A LLY ?! Oliver Zelt is an editor on German daily television news programme ‘tagesthemen’ and a food critic for various magazines and newspapers.
T E X T O L I V E R Z E LT
A
lthough the days of having to don your Sunday best for a fancy meal out are long gone, some people still like to dress up to eat out. Recently, however, at a casual dining establishment with a fabulous menu, my enjoyment of the whole experience was rather spoilt by the sickly odour of the aftershave that the gentleman at a table across the way had quite obviously very liberally applied. Confit char, ponzu mushrooms, beetroot foam... everything tasted like a cloud of lilac, lily of the valley and patchouli. Several other guests were clearly also finding it extremely unpleasant. Even leaving the entrance door open for a considerable length of time only provided very brief respite. I didn’t like to say anything and risk causing offence, unlike the guy with his overpowering eau de cologne. But this is (the polite version!) of what I’d have liked to have said: Really?! It’s a restaurant, not a catwalk! Please, please, please, less of the posing! It’s the cuisine and its captivating odours that take centre stage here!
R U N N I N G A M O K W I T H F E R M E N TAT I O N When fermentation first arrived in Europe’s top restaurants, and entire menus promptly began to revolve around the acetic fermentation flavours of assorted fruit and vegetables, restaurant critics rejoiced. At last, haute cuisine was going back to basics: to preserving food, just like Grandma used to. Now, though, I feel a surge of exasperation fermenting inside me! Up and down the country, master chefs – and the latest generation are especially guilty of this – are running amok with fermentation! The fields are full of splendid cucumbers, colourful tomatoes and delicious plums. So why do dishes so often feature such wonderful ripe and juicy produce in pickled form? I’ve had enough of acidic undertones and long for simple freshness, for the most tomatoey-tasting tomatoes. Many in the gastronomy sector need every guest they can get right now – even the most popular establishments are grappling with empty tables; some well-known restaurants have even closed for good. Yet, children continue to be frowned upon, and in some cases are expressly unwelcome. They may be little now, but in a few years’ time, it will be them who will determine whether a restaurant keeps its doors open or has to close due to a lack of custom. It’s hardly rocket science. Hushed tones around the dining table are no longer de rigueur, and children are no longer expected to be seen but not heard. A family meal out is an enriching experience for everyone: children, parents, grandparents, and also chefs! Bon appétit!
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“I’ VE HAD ENOUGH OF ACIDIC UNDERTONES AND LONG FOR SIMPLE FRESHNESS, F O R T H E M O S T T O M AT O E YTA S T I N G T O M AT O E S .”
NE PACKA W GING
prese rves t qualit y of th he e even b cheese etter
Artisanal cheese made from the best Luxembourgish Demeter milk
F E AT U R E
I T ’S J UST SO CHEESY Isn’t it unfair that whenever something is described as ‘cheesy’, we immediately think of things that make us cringe? The truth is that cheese is a culinary star, either on its own or in a sauce.
T E X T O L I V E R Z E LT
I
n many restaurants, cheese tops the bill when it’s rolled out on a trolley to offer one final highlight as the last course in an evening of fine dining. It leaves diners feeling pleasantly full and also offers them a peek into the art of cheesemaking that’s not just limited to hip regional cuisine. No other food is quite so diverse, with a smorgasbord of offerings ranging from heifer’s milk cheese to ash-coated soft goat’s cheese and matured cheese loaves made with Alpine milk. Around the world, there are no fewer than 5,000 different varieties and specialties.
T H EO R I E S O N T H E O R I G I N S O F C H E E S E Several theories have emerged as to when cheese was first eaten. Maybe someone noticed that milk curdled when kept near the fire. Or perhaps predigested milk was found in the stomachs of slaughtered suckling animals. Or maybe herdsmen were surprised to find that the milk they’d put in a dried animal stomach on a morning to take out with them had turned into a clotted mass later in the day. At best, they could only have guessed that this had something to do with traces of the enzyme rennin left in the stomach. Fat residues found in 7,000-year-old pots indicate that these containers were used to separate whey from milk, a step in the cheese-making process. In the 8th century BC, the poet Homer described a cyclops milking “sheep and bleating goats”. He then left “half of the milk to curdle, moulded it into cheese and stored it in primitive baskets”. Around the same time, the ancient Romans were already seasoning their cheese with herbs and smoking it so it lasted longer. In the Middle Ages, monks refined cheese, partly as a welcome substitute for meat during Lent. It is said that Charlemagne singled out the monks of the Abbey of Saint Gall to praise them for their cheesemaking prowess. French scientist Louis Pasteur’s 19th century discovery that harmful microbes could be killed by briefly heating liquids led to the mass production of cheese varieties, since these could now be kept longer.
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AROUND THE WORLD, THERE ARE NO FEWER THAN 5,000 DIFFERENT VA R I E T I E S & S P E C I A LT I E S .
F E AT U R E
Given this rich cultural history, it’s a real cheek that the word ‘cheesy’ has come to be used in a derogatory sense. It shows such disrespect, considering the craftsmanship that goes into producing a fine, well-seasoned cheese! Moreover, the fact that cheese is one of those foods that have you crying out for more marks it out as a sure-fire winner. The main ingredient for cheese is top-quality milk, usually from cows, goats or sheep. This is first heated to a maximum of 40°C for raw milk cheese and up to 75°C for all other varieties. When performed at high temperatures, pasteurisation neutralises any microbes present, but also eliminates flavour-producing enzymes. The milk is then curdled, to use the proper cheesemaking term. For acid-set cheese, lactic acid bacteria are also added. The lactose transforms into lactic acid, causing the milk protein to clot, giving fresh cheese. Rennet is also added to produce the vast majority of cheeses. While in some very rare cases this is derived from calves’ stomachs using the same method applied by our prehistoric ancestors, the enzyme is usually made artificially for industrial applications. Rennet also allows the milk protein to clot, and the resulting curds are cut using a ‘cheese harp’ not dissimilar to the musical instrument. The smaller the curds are cut, the more whey is squeezed out and the harder the cheese will eventually be. The curdled mass is then placed in a mould, which often has small holes in it to allow any remaining liquid whey to run out. This triggers the start of the resting and maturing period, at which point some loaves are placed briefly in a salt bath or rubbed with brine. Depending on the variety, this stage can last months, or even years in some cases. The conditions and microclimate in the maturing cellar, including temperature, humidity and ventilation, all play a part in determining the flavour of the cheese.
T H E M AT U R AT I O N P R O C E S S
C H E E S E C O N TA I N S VA L UA B L E N U T R I E N T S : CALCIUM , PHOSPHORUS & V I TA M I N S B 2 , B 1 2 A N D A .
A cheese-refining expert, known as an affineur, is in charge of all the rituals involved in ensuring that the cheese matures properly, such as salting, brushing and turning. It’s also their job to identify appropriate ingredients such as herbs, wine or salt. After all, the ideal pairing may differ from one variety to the next. Cheese runs the whole gamut of flavours, from mild to strong via aromatic, seasoned and spicy. So is there any truth in the accusation that most cheeses are unhealthy? Obviously, they contain fat and salt which add flavour, making them more enjoyable to eat. But let’s not forget that they also contain valuable nutrients such as calcium, phosphorus and vitamins B2, B12 and A. While an ash-coated fresh cheese with Alpine herbs matured briefly on mountain hay in straw baskets may not be the right choice for a cheese sauce, the best sauces, like fine wines, can only be made with the best ingredients. Gouda and Emmental are perfect as a creamy accompaniment for pasta. And Parmesan is simply heavenly!
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F E AT U R E
T H E EIGH T FA M I L I ES
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F RES H CHEESES
GOAT’S C HEESES
Curd Cheese, Ricotta, Mozzarella
Tomme de Chèvre, Ibores
S E MI-HARD CHEESES
HARD CHE ESES
Gouda, Appenzeller, Tête de Moine
Parmesan, Greyerzer, Emmental
BLO OMY RIND CHEES ES
WASHED- R IND CHEESES
Camembert, Brie
Munster, Vacherin, Reblochon
BLU E CH EESES
SHEEP’S C HE ESES
Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Stilton
Pecorino, Manchego from Spain, Le Fiumorbu from Corsica
CHEESE RUNS THE WHOLE GAMUT OF F L AV O U R S , F R O M MILD TO STRONG V I A A R O M AT I C , S E A S O N E D & S P I C Y.
LU X E M B O U R G IS H K AC HK É IS This cheese is emblematic of Luxembourgish cuisine. Lactic acid bacteria are added to skimmed milk. This turns the milk into a crumbly sour curd cheese which is left to ripen for at least a week. Salt, pepper and a liberal serving of butter are then added, and the mixture is cooked in a pot for at least five minutes. Kachkéis can be eaten warm or cold and goes nicely with a dash of mustard. One important thing to note: It should be slightly sticky.
Cheeses from Switzerland Centuries-old traditions. Timeless tastes.
Switzerland. Naturally.
Cheeses from Switzerland. www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com
F E AT U R E
In collaboration with
For some people, cheese is associated with autumnal platter, but not for Bertrand, who has come up with some cheese-based recipes that smell just like summer. With a floral look, there’s something for everyone in these bite-sized dishes made with Parmesan, Halloumi or Gouda cheese.
RECIPES BERTRAND DUCHAMPS PHOTOS ENIA HAECK
G OUDA CROQUE T TES SERVES 6 35 MINUTES
• 125 g grated semi-aged Gouda cheese • 250 ml organic whole milk • 60 g organic flour • 50 g butter • 1 l grapeseed oil • 4 organic egg yolks and 1 organic egg white
• Breadcrumbs • Salt & pepper • Nutmeg • Watercress or spring onions 1 Make the béchamel sauce:
Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour until thicker, and then pour the milk slowly and cook until velvety. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, Gouda and egg yolks. 2 When the mixture comes away from the pan, spread in a 3-4 cm layer on a buttered baking tray. Dust with flour and refrigerate for 30-40 minutes. 3 Cut into small pucks. Coat both sides with egg white and breadcrumbs. 4 Fry at 185°C in grapeseed oil until brown on both sides. Serve as a spring roll on a salad leaf, or garnished with some watercress.
WINE PAIRING CRÉM ANT POLL-FABAIRE E X TR A BRUT
The fine bubbles and the mineral edge will balance out the richness of the deep fried cheese.
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F E AT U R E
In collaboration with
GRILLED HALLOUMI WITH ORGANIC LEMON SERVES 4
15 MINUTES
• 250 g Halloumi • 1 tbsp virgin olive oil • 1 tbsp organic lemon juice • ½ tbsp flat-leaf parsley • ½ tbsp dried mint • 1 handful fresh coriander • 4 slices sandwich bread, toasted • 2 tbsp tomato, diced • Freshly ground pepper 84
1 Brown the cheese (2 slices per
person) in the olive oil for 3 to 4 minutes over a medium heat until golden brown on both sides. 2 Add the lemon juice and parsley-mint mixture, season with pepper (but not salt) and serve on toasted bread with the coriander leaves and tomato.
WINE PAIRING CUVÉE BIO LES VIGNERONS DE DOM AINES VINSMOSELLE
A fresh, summery wine that will beautifully elevate the dish.
F E AT U R E
In collaboration with
ONION CONFIT & FE TA TARTLE T SERVES 4
1 HOUR
• 1 butter puff pastry • 4 Roscoff onions, thinly sliced • 3 tbsp virgin olive oil • 1 tbsp salted butter • 50 ml red wine vinegar
• 2 tbsp blackcurrant liqueur • 120 g Greek feta cheese • Oregano • Bertrand salt
1 Preheat oven to 185°C.
edge like a pizza. Bake for 13 minutes at 185°C, then sprinkle the tartlets with feta cheese and continue baking for a further 5 to 7 minutes. 6 Serve with a simple cucumber salad with cream and fresh mint.
2 Using a small bowl or a cookie cutter, cut out
4 circles +/- 12 cm from the puff pastry for the tarts and set aside in a cool place (fragile). 3 Fry the onions in the butter and olive oil over a medium heat until lightly coloured. 4 Add the blackcurrant liqueur, vinegar, oregano, salt and pepper. Continue cooking until reduced to a compote and leave to cool. 5 Place the tartlets on a baking tray lined with baking paper and top with the onion confit using the back of a fork, leaving an
WINE PAIRING VIGNUM RIESLING GRE VENM ACHER FEL S
The minerality of this wine pairs perfectly with the caramelized onions and feta.
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F E AT U R E
In collaboration with
PARMESAN , GREEN PEPPER & PIS TACHIO SHORTBRE AD 35 SHORTBREADS
• 150 g flour • 180 g cold butter • 100 g grated Parmesan cheese • 1 tbsp green pepper in brine, chopped • 1 tbsp toasted pistachios, chopped
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50 MINUTES 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2 Knead the butter with the flour until the mixture
resembles fine breadcrumbs, then add the Parmesan, pepper and pistachios. Form into a ball and refrigerate for half an hour if possible. Spread between 2 sheets of greaseproof paper, cut out with a pastry cutter and bake on a baking tray with greaseproof paper for 15 minutes. 3 Serve as an aperitif with an Auxerrois or a local IPA beer.
WINE PAIRING VIGNUM AUXERROIS VIEILLES VIGNES
The body of this wine will easily stand up to the saltiness of the Parmesan.
COOKING HOB
SAPHIRMATT AEG.LU
SAPHIRMATT DISCOVER OUR PRESENTATION ON YOUTUBE.
AEG is a trademark of
GLUTEN-FREE
THE GLUTEN-FREE RECIPE BY CAROLINE ESCH & VA L É R I A N P R A D E Gluten-free is not always easy. If you’re intolerant, hosting someone with an intolerance, or simply want to try out a recipe that’s easy on the stomach: KACHEN has you covered. Thanks to the collaboration with Caroline Esch and Valérian Prade, the chefs at the 100% gluten-free, Michelin-starred Pavillon Eden Rose restaurant in Kayl, you can now discover one of their BROW-free recipes every season. BROW, the acronym to remember when avoiding cereals containing gluten: Barley, Rye, Oats, Wheat (and Triticale, a hybrid of wheat and rye). Enjoy with peace of mind! © ENIA HAECK
R EC I P E C A R O L I N E E S C H & VA L É R I A N P R A D E PHOTO LUCAS MULLER
BOURBON VANILL A M ACAROONS & CHOCOL ATE TRUFFLES 20 MACAROONS & 8 TRUFFLES For the vanilla ganache • 300 g white chocolate • 360 ml single cream • 1 vanilla pod For the macaroons • 130 g egg whites (approx. 4 large eggs) • 230 g icing sugar • 100 g caster sugar • 130 g almond powder • 1 Bourbon vanilla pod For the chocolate truffles • 100 g Guanaja chocolate (Valrhona) • 65 ml liquid cream • Cocoa powder
1 D AY
The vanilla ganache 1 In a saucepan, bring the cream
5 Place a dab of ganache on one shell,
then stick on a second shell.
and vanilla to the boil. 2 Pour the mixture over the chopped chocolate in a mixing bowl. 3 Whisk until smooth. 4 Set aside at room temperature for around 12 hours.
6 Repeat with the other shells.
The macaroons
3 Using your hands, shape the mixture
The chocolate truffles 1 Melt the dark chocolate.
Pour over the cream and mix. 2 Place the mixture in a bowl and set
aside in the fridge for at least 3 hours. 1 Preheat your oven to 140°C. 2 In a large bowl, whisk the egg whites
with the caster sugar. Using a spatula, fold in the almond powder, vanilla and icing sugar. Pour the mixture into a piping bag. 3 Place small dots of pastry on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Tap the baking tray on the work surface so that the dough spreads out and takes the shape of macaroon shells. Leave to rest for 30 minutes, then place in the oven for 17 minutes. 4 Leave the shells to cool slightly, then peel them off.
into uniform balls and roll in a little cocoa powder.
TIP
Be careful, the chocolate softens quickly and it becomes increasingly difficult to form without the chocolate sticking. Quickly shape the balls, roll them in the cocoa powder and refine the shape. Place the truffles on a plate in a cool place and take them out just before serving.
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FA M I LY R E C I P E S
E A SY M E A L PR EP When hunger strikes and time is short, we have the solution: healthy family recipes that are on the table in no time. On these pages you will find a selection of delicious meals that are not only easy to prepare, but also support your healthy eating habits. Complete with a handy shopping list and tips for efficient meal preparation, delicious and healthy meals are on the table even faster.
Shopping list • 400 g brown lentils, tin • 400 g chopped tomatoes, tin • 150 g quinoa • 1 kg gnocchi • 1 shortcrust pastry • 50 g Parmesan cheese, grated • 100 g fresh goat’s cheese • 500 ml cream • 500 g sour cream • 4 eggs • 500 g shallots • 1 garlic bulb • 1 red cabbage • 3 potatoes • 2 apples • 4 carrots • 1 red onion • 1 butternut squash • 200 g spinach • 1 bunch fresh parsley • 500 g beetroot, cooked • 15 g sage leaves • 20 g walnuts From the pantry • Olive oil • Rapeseed oil • Apple cider vinegar • Vegetable stock • Mustard • Cumin • Cinnamon • Salt & pepper • Thyme • Bay leaves • Nutmeg • Turmeric • Paprika powder • Coriander
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FA M I LY R E C I P E S
R EC I P E S & P H OTO S J I L L N OVA K
GNOCCHI WITH PUMPKIN SAUCE & SAGE SERVES 4 45 MINUTES
• ½ butternut squash • 1 shallot • 1 clove of garlic • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 kg gnocchi • 2 tbsp butter • 1 handful of sage leaves • 250 ml cream • Salt, to taste • Pepper, to taste • 1 tsp paprika powder • ¼ tsp nutmeg • 50 g Parmesan cheese, grated 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C
top and bottom heat. 2 Skin the pumpkin as required and
cut into 2 cm cubes. Peel the shallot and garlic clove and also cut into 2 cm thick pieces. 3 Combine the diced vegetables with the olive oil in an ovenproof dish and bake in the oven for 30 minutes. 4 Meanwhile, bring a pan with plenty of salted water to the boil and cook the gnocchi according to the packet instructions. 5 Wash the sage and sauté in a pan with the butter until the sage starts to colour slightly. 6 Once the vegetables are cooked, put them in a blender and puree finely with the cream, some of the pasta cooking water and the spices. Finally, mix in the grated Parmesan. 7 Toss the gnocchi with the sauce and serve with sage butter. MEAL PREP TIP
SHELF LIFE
The pumpkin can be cooked in the oven together with the beetroot tart.
The gnocchi will keep fresh for three to four days in an airtight container in the fridge and the sauce can be frozen in portions for up to three months.
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FA M I LY R E C I P E S
LENTIL & PUMPKIN S TE W SERVES 4 1 HOUR
• 2 shallots • 2 cloves of garlic • 3 tbsp olive oil • 1 tsp turmeric • 1 l vegetable stock • ½ butternut squash • 2 potatoes • 2 carrots • 400 g brown lentils, tin • 400 g chopped tomatoes, tin • 1 tsp paprika powder • ½ tsp cumin • ½ tsp coriander • Salt, to taste • Pepper, to taste • 1 bay leaf • 200 g spinach • ½ bunch parsley • 250 g sour cream 1 Peel and finely dice the shallots and
garlic cloves. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and sauté the cubes until translucent. After three minutes, add the turmeric and sauté briefly. Deglaze with the vegetable stock. 2 Peel the pumpkin, potatoes and carrots and cut into small pieces. Add the vegetables to the pan with the drained lentils and tomatoes. Flavour with the spices and simmer for 45 minutes. The cooking time may vary depending on the size of the vegetable pieces. 3 Wash and dry the spinach and parsley. Finely chop the parsley and add to the stew with the spinach and simmer for a further five minutes. Depending on the desired consistency, you can add a little vegetable stock. 4 Serve the lentil and pumpkin stew with sour cream.
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MEAL PREP TIP
SHELF LIFE
The stew can be prepared at the same time as the red cabbage and apple soup, as both these dishes take a while to cook.
Keeps fresh for three to four days in an airtight container in the fridge and can be frozen in portions for up to three months.
FA M I LY R E C I P E S
RED CABBAGE & APPLE SOUP SERVES 4
• 1 shallot • 2 cloves of garlic • 3 tbsp olive oil • 1 l vegetable stock
1 HOUR
• ¾ red cabbage • 1 potato • 1 apple • 1 tsp cumin
• ½ tsp cinnamon • Salt, to taste • Pepper, to taste • 250 g sour cream
1 Peel and finely dice the shallot and garlic cloves.
MEAL PREP TIP
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and sauté the cubes until translucent. Deglaze with the vegetable stock. 2 Remove the stalk from the red cabbage and peel the potato and apple. Cut everything into large pieces and add to the pan. Add the spices and simmer for 30-45 minutes. The cooking time may vary depending on the size of the vegetable pieces. 3 Puree the soup finely with a hand blender, adding a little vegetable stock depending on the desired consistency. Garnish the soup with sour cream and serve.
The soup can be prepared at the same time as the lentil and pumpkin stew, as both dishes take a while to cook. SHELF LIFE
Keeps fresh for three to four days in an airtight container in the fridge and can be frozen for three months.
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FA M I LY R E C I P E S
BEE TROOT TART SERVES 4 50 MINUTES
• Springform pan (diam. 24 cm) • 500 g beetroot, cooked • 1 shallot • 1 clove of garlic • 1 shortcrust pastry • 100 g fresh goat’s cheese • 250 ml cream • 4 eggs • 1 tsp thyme, dried • 1 handful of sage leaves • Salt & pepper, to taste 94
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C top and
bottom heat. 2 Drain the beetroot and cut into slices.
Peel and finely dice the shallot and garlic clove. 3 Lay the shortcrust pastry in the springform tin and prick with a fork. Arrange the beetroot on the pastry with the diced shallot and garlic. 4 In a bowl, mix the goat’s cream cheese with the cream, eggs, sage and spices and pour over the beetroot. 5 Bake the beetroot tart in the oven for 30-40 minutes until golden brown.
MEAL PREP TIP
The beetroot tart can be baked in the oven together with the pumpkin.
SHELF LIFE
Keeps fresh for three to four days in an airtight container in the fridge and can be frozen in portions for three months.
FA M I LY R E C I P E S
QUINOA & RED CABBAGE SAL AD SERVES 4
1 Bring the vegetable stock to the boil in
45 MINUTES
a saucepan and cook the quinoa in it according to the packet instructions. When the quinoa is cooked, drain and leave to cool. 2 Remove the stalk from the red cabbage, peel the carrots, apple and onion and finely grate using a food processor or by hand. 3 Wash and finely chop the parsley. Finely chop the walnuts too. 4 To make the vinaigrette, combine the rapeseed oil, apple cider vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper in a screw-top jar and shake well. 5 Toss the vegetables with the quinoa and vinaigrette and serve.
• 150 g quinoa • 500 ml vegetable stock • ¼ red cabbage • 2 carrots • 1 apple • 1 red onion • 1/4 bunch parsley • 1 handful walnuts, peeled
• 60 ml rapeseed oil • 30 ml apple cider vinegar • 1 tsp mustard • Salt, to taste • Pepper, to taste
MEAL PREP TIP
The salad can be stored in portions in large screw-top jars and taken to work, for example.
SHELF LIFE
Keeps for three to four days in an airtight container in the fridge, store the vinaigrette separately in a small jar.
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ADVERTORIAL
AUTUMN MENU
LET ’S ‘CH A LET ’, SH A LL W E? There’s something so special about the first days of autumn. Nature’s saturated greens soften, giving way to shades of orange and red. The first leaves drift to the ground, forming a regal carpet through the forest. And perhaps most noticeable is the morning chill and the darker evenings. All of these signs invite us to move indoors where we seek warmth and a comforting meal. To make things easier you’ll find everything you need to welcome your friends, under one roof, at DELHAIZE! Begin the feast with a velvety-smooth pumpkin soup crowned with truffle-infused crème fraîche. Move on to our delectable Fondue Savoyarde served with baguette and steamy potatoes to scoop up the cheese. (Remember, if you lose your ‘dipper’ at the end of your fork, you need to drink a shot of schnapps!) Finish with an unctuous moelleux au chocolat served with Calvados-poached pears. Sounds delightful… Won’t you hygge with us?
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ADVERTORIAL
DELHAIZE products • DELHAIZE Butter • DELHAIZE Cream • DELHAIZE DLL Sweet onions • DELHAIZE Taste of Inspirations Comte PDO • DELHAIZE DLL Calvados 20 cl • DELHAIZE DLL Heavy cream • DELHAIZE DLL Eggs M
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AUTUMN MENU
RECIPES KIRSTY VON BOCH PHOTOS ENIA HAECK & MARC DOSTERT
PUMPKIN VELOUTÉ WITH TRUFFLE CRÈME FR AÎCHE
SERVES 4 100 MINUTES
• 1 onion, quartered • 2 garlic cloves • 1 pumpkin (approx. 800 g), cut into large chunks and deseeded
• 2 tbsp olive oil • 750 ml chicken stock (or vegetable stock if preferred)
• 60 ml cream • 1/2 tsp salt, or more to taste • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper • 60 ml crème fraîche or sour cream • 1 tsp truffle oil • 1 tbsp fresh chives, chopped 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C.
Place the onion, garlic cloves and pumpkin on a large baking tray. Drizzle with olive oil and roast for 45 minutes, turning halfway, until soft. 2 Scoop out the pumpkin flesh and add it to a large pot along with the roasted onion, garlic and any juices from the tray. 3 Add chicken stock and purée the mixture using a hand-held immersion blender. 4 Pass the soup through a sieve and return to the pot. Add the cream, salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer and taste for seasoning. 5 Combine the crème fraîche, truffle oil and chives. 6 Serve the soup with a dollop of truffle crème fraîche.
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FONDUE SAVOYARDE SERVES 4
25 MINUTES
• 1 garlic clove • 700 g fondue cheese, we like a
• 1 pinch freshly ground black pepper • 2 tsp kirsch (optional)
combination of Beaufort, Abondance and Comté • 2 tsp cornflour • 250 ml dry white wine • Freshly grated nutmeg
Accompaniments • Baguette cubes • Boiled new potatoes • Cornichons and pickled silverskin onions
1 Remove the cheese rinds and chop
the cheese into small cubes. Peel and halve the garlic. 2 Rub one garlic half over the bottom of a fondue pot, or a cast iron pot works well. Add the wine and bring to a simmer. Add the cheese and garlic. 3 Simmer over a low-medium heat, stirring constantly, until all the cheese has melted. This takes about 10-15 minutes so you’ll
need a bit of patience. If it gets too hot, the cheese may separate. 4 When all the cheese has melted, turn the heat down to low. Remove the garlic. Add a few grates of nutmeg and the kirsch, if using. 5 Place the fondue pot on a fondue stand to keep warm (use a gel capsule or tea candle). Serve with your choice of accompaniments!
AUTUMN MENU
MOELLEUX AU CHOCOL AT WITH SPICED PE ARS
SERVES 4 30 MINUTES
• 200 g good-quality dark chocolate (60% cacao)
• 100 g butter • 100 g sugar • 2 tbsp flour • 3 eggs For the spiced pears • 2 firm Conference pears, slightly underripe • 250 ml water • 75 g sugar • 1 tsp lemon juice • 30 ml Calvados*
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1 In a large heatproof bowl, melt the
4 Add the sugar, flour and salt. Fold them
4 Cover and simmer for about
chocolate and butter in the microwave at 30-second intervals, stirring after each time, until there are only a few specks of solid chocolate left. Remove the bowl from the microwave and continue to stir, allowing the residual heat to melt the remaining chocolate bits until completely smooth. Set aside to cool to room temperature. Alternatively, melt the chocolate and butter by placing it in a heatproof bowl over a pan of gently simmering water. 2 Preheat the oven to 200°C. 3 Add the eggs to the cooled chocolate mixture and whisk to combine.
into the batter until smooth. 5 Butter the insides of four small ramekins (around 8 cm in diameter). 6 Divide the batter equally between the ramekins and bake for 12 minutes. 7 Allow to cool for a few minutes before serving.
20 minutes, turning occasionally, until the pears are soft when poked with a knife. 5 Remove the pears from the pan. If you prefer a thicker syrup, simmer the liquid for 5-10 minutes more. Spoon it over the pears. Any leftover syrup is delicious with yogurt, ice cream or in cocktails!
The spiced pears 1 Peel, core and quarter the pears. 2 Combine the water and sugar in a large
saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. 3 Add the lemon juice, pears and Calvados to the pan.
*
For a non-alcoholic version, omit the Calvados. Instead of 250 ml water, use 200 ml water and 100 ml apple juice.
AUTUMN MENU
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KNOWLEDGE BITES
V IN EGA R AS AN A PER I T IF Chefs are serving their guests up something sour: drinkable vinegar. Those who dare try this new trend on the restaurant scene may be in for a pleasant surprise…
T E X T O L I V E R Z E LT
W
ine vinegar is moving in on wine. In two-star Berlin restaurant Horváth, the menu opens with the house aperitif ‘Horváthini’. A gently heated carrot, parsley root, apple and celery juice, to which chef Sebastian Frank adds some vine leaves and a dash of particularly mild white wine vinegar. The drink is then bottled and left to ferment for three months. The vinegar adds a fresh tartness, which opens the palate and whets the appetite for the evening of culinary delights ahead. More and more top restaurants are offering an alcohol-free drinks menu. Vinegar is the latest hip ingredient for giving juices and ferments an extra flavour kick. But vinegar in a drink? Is that taking things a step too far? Isn’t it too acidic for most? Not at all. Sometimes it can prove a surprisingly delightful drink, and even be savoured neat. Erwin Gegenbauer, a master artisanal vinegar maker in Vienna and one of the
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© H O R VÁT H / R E N É R I I S
pioneers of the vinegar trend, invites people to his factory for a tasting, paired with a small dish. He serves a ‘posca’ – a refreshing mixture of vinegar and water, enjoyed as a thirst-quencher by the ancient Romans. Gegenbauer recommends one of his vinegars to go with the dish: freshly picked tomatoes, sliced and then marinated briefly in just olive oil and salt pair perfectly with a tomato vinegar made from fresh tomato water. It takes some getting used to for restaurateurs to serve and guests to drink a vinegar neat. The secret is to take a tiny sip. Connoisseurs let the sour-tasting sip slip directly onto their tongue from a special tasting glass for drinking vinegar, which, with its incredibly long stem, can be up to 30 centimetres tall.
S O M E T H I N G V E RY E XQ U I S I T E This special drinking vinegar is not officially classed as vinegar, as it has a maximum acidity of three percent.
“There’s something very exquisite about it,” says Georg Heinrich Wiedemann, who, like Gegenbauer, sees vinegar as more than just an ingredient for a vinaigrette. “It’s like a mystical elixir for the palate.” In his wine vinegar brewery Doktorenhof in Venningen, in the southwest of Germany, Wiedemann produces specialities to meet the growing demand for vinegar drinks. Similar to fine wines, woody notes from the oak barrels lend the vinegar a fullness of flavour. And it takes a long time. Eight years until he can bottle his apricot vinegar! The ‘Edelsaure Bouvier Reserve’ is a premium potion that has been maturing for over 22 years. It is based on a wine made from the rarely cultivated Bouvier grapes, which have low acidity and a delicate muscat aroma. So, go on! Be a daredevil and try it! Because as they say in German: “Sauer macht lustig!” (sour makes you happy)!
PAR TNER R ECIPE
MOUSSAK A - THE QUICK & EASY MENU BY DELHAIZE SERVES 3—4 A DELHAIZE meal box that already contains all the basic ingredients • 2 aubergines • 1 courgette • 4 tomatoes
1 2
3
4
5 6
75 MINUTES
• 2 potatoes • 1 red onion • 2 cloves of garlic • 1 tin tomato paste • 1 sachet seasoning mix
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Grease the oven dish. Clean the vegetables. Cut the aubergines and courgette into thin slices and the tomatoes into cubes. Peel and chop the onion and garlic. Peel the potatoes and cut into thin slices. Heat the (olive) oil in a frying pan or saucepan. Brown the minced beef for 3 to 5 minutes over a high heat. Add the onion and garlic and fry for 2 minutes over a high heat. Add the tomato paste and fry for 2 minutes over a medium heat.
To add • 2 tbsp (olive) oil • 300 ml semi-skimmed milk • 150 g grated cheese • 300 g lean minced beef
Add the tomatoes, seasoning mix and semi-skimmed milk, bring to the boil while stirring and simmer for 10 minutes over a low heat. 8 Spread 1/3 of the sauce over the base of the oven dish and press in half the aubergines and half the courgette. 9 Pour over half the remaining sauce and use half the grated cheese to sprinkle over the top. 1 0 Place the remaining aubergine and courgette slices on top. Pour over the remaining sauce and cover with the potato slices. 1 1 Sprinkle the top with the remaining grated cheese. Place the dish in 7
the middle of the oven and bake the moussaka for 45 minutes until cooked through and golden brown.
VEGGIE TIP
Replace the minced beef with 300 g white beans or with 250 g of Plant Based mince by Delhaize.
F O R M O R E D EL H A I Z E R EC I P E S , VISIT
DELHAIZE.LU
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S E A S O N A L V EG E TA B L E
5 FAC TS ABOUT
CELERY H E A LTH B OOST ER
C
A VE R SAT ILE VEGTA B LE
elery is a great all-rounder when it comes to its benefits for the body. Vitamins, minerals and antioxidants boost metabolism and the nervous system, lower blood pressure, cholesterol and blood sugar, support the kidneys and digestion and alleviate rheumatism and gout. The colouring agent apigenin is said to be good for the brain and for preventing depression.
S
talks, leaves and the peeled tuber can all be eaten raw, steamed, fried, roasted or boiled. In smoothies, salads and snacks or as a flavouring in soups or stews, stalk celery tastes fresher, crisper and milder than celeriac.
B U YING & STO R ING
C
LOOKS CA N B E DECEIV ING
I
t may not look like a culinary delicacy, but there’s more to celery than meets the eye. It owes its mildly peppery flavour to essential oils, with celeriac tasting slightly more bitter than stalk celery. The latter variety contains so few calories that the body almost needs more energy to digest it than it gets from it.
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FUN FAC TS
C
eleriac is also known as ‘nature’s toothbrush’, as chewing it produces more saliva, which naturally cleans the teeth. In ancient times, the winner of the ‘Nemean Games’ used to be crowned with a wreath of braided celery leaves.
eleriac, with its green leaves which are particularly rich in essential oils, is in season into early autumn, after which time you can tell how fresh it is by pressing the skin to check for firmness. The tubers will keep for 2-3 weeks in the fridge, or for several months if stored in moist sand or peat, in a cool, frost-free place. To freeze, first peel and cut into pieces.
S E A S O N A L V EG E TA B L E
RECIPES & PHOTOS ANNE LOMMEL
CELERY SHOT 10 SHOTS
• 2 stalks of celery • 1 pear • 2 apples • 2 kiwis • 50 g ginger • 1 lime, juice • 1/2 bunch parsley (10 g) • 1/2 tsp turmeric
15 MINUTES
1 Wash and chop the pear, apples, celery, ginger
and parsley. Cut the kiwis in half and scoop out the flesh with a spoon. 2 Place the pear, apples, kiwis, celery, ginger and parsley in the juicer and extract the juice. 3 Mix the freshly squeezed juice with the lime juice and flavour with turmeric. Serve immediately in shot glasses.
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S E A S O N A L V EG E TA B L E
CELERY & APPLE SOUP SERVES 4 35 MINUTES
For the soup • 1 large piece of celeriac • 1 apple (e.g. Jonagold) • 2 tbsp butter • 100 ml apple wine (cider) • 700 ml vegetable stock • 100 ml cream • A pinch of salt For the garnish • 2 stalks of celery • 1 apple (e.g. Jonagold) • Salt • Cayenne pepper (1/4 tsp, if you like it hotter, add more) • 1/2 lemon, juice • 2 tbsp rapeseed oil • 1 tbsp sugar
1 Clean, peel, wash and dice the celery.
Peel, core and dice the apple. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a pan. Sauté the celeriac and diced apple in it. Deglaze with cider. Add the stock and a pinch of salt. Simmer for 20 minutes over a medium heat. Then add the cream and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Then puree until smooth. 2 For the garnish, clean and wash the celery and cut into small pieces. Wash, core and cut the apple into thin slices and cut them in half. Heat the oil in a pan. Fry the celery and apple pieces in it for a few minutes. Add the salt, lemon juice and cayenne pepper and stir well. Sprinkle with the sugar and caramelise. 3 Pour the soup into soup bowls, top with the celery and apple mixture and serve immediately.
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S E A S O N A L V EG E TA B L E
CELERY & CRE A M CHEESE DIP SERVES 2 10 MINUTES
• 1 piece of celeriac • 1 tbsp lemon juice • 100 g cream cheese • 150 g yoghurt • 2 walnut kernels • Salt • Cayenne pepper • Mild paprika powder • 1/2 bunch chives 1 Peel, wash and finely grate the
celeriac. Sprinkle with lemon juice. 2 Mix the cream cheese with
the yoghurt. 3 Chop the walnuts and fold in
with the grated celeriac. 4 Season everything with salt,
cayenne pepper and paprika. Cover and place in the fridge for 30 minutes. 5 Wash the chives, shake dry and cut into fine rolls. Sprinkle over the dip. If you prefer, you can also stir in the chives. 6 Serve with dark grain bread.
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S E A S O N A L V EG E TA B L E
CELERY SAL AD WITH BEE TROOT SERVES 4
55 MINUTES
For the salad • 1 small celery root • 2 small beetroots • 1 apple • 10 walnuts For the dressing • 3-4 tbsp walnut oil • 100 ml apple juice • 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar • Salt & pepper • 4 stalks of lemon balm
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1 For the salad, peel, wash and roughly
shred the celery, apple and beetroot. Alternatively, you can cut the apple into small pieces. Roughly chop the walnuts. 2 For the dressing, mix the walnut oil, apple cider vinegar, apple juice, salt and pepper together. Wash the lemon balm and shake dry, chop and fold in. 3 Mix the dressing well with the shredded vegetables. Leave the salad to marinate for about 30 minutes.
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S E A S O N A L V EG E TA B L E
CELERY FRIT TERS SERVES 4
• 1 large celeriac • 2 large potatoes • 1 onion • 2 cloves of garlic • 2 eggs • 5 tbsp flour
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30 MINUTES
• A small bunch of parsley • Salt and pepper • Nutmeg • Clarified butter or rapeseed oil for frying
1 Peel, wash and coarsely grate the celeriac and potato.
Mix with the eggs, flour, salt and pepper. Finely chop the onion, garlic and parsley and add to the mixture. If you like, you can add a pinch of nutmeg. 2 Fry the mixture into small pancakes in hot fat. Fry for about a few minutes on each side until golden brown. 3 This goes very well with stewed apples.
PAR TNER R ECIPE
ROASTED BUT TERNUT WITH LUXL AIT SK YR SERVES 4 50 MINUTES For the butternut • 1 large butternut squash, seeds scooped out + sliced into 5 mm pieces • Olive oil • 1 tbsp Za’atar • Salt & pepper • 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled • A few cilantro leaves, for ser ving • Chilli flakes, for ser ving For the spicy cilantro sauce • 1 medium bunch fresh cilantro, leaves torn off • 2 jalapeños, sliced in half + seeds scraped out • 2 medium garlic cloves • ½ tsp ground cumin • ½ tsp sea salt • 120 ml olive oil (more if needed) For the garlic Skyr • 1 pot LUXLAIT Skyr (450 g) • The roasted garlic cloves • 2 tsp lemon juice
1 Heat the oven to 200°C (fan).
4 Place the roasted garlic cloves in a bowl and mash well
2 Place the squash slices on a large baking sheet,
with a fork. Remove garlic peels and add the skyr, lemon juice, and mix well to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 5 Spread the LUXLAIT Skyr inside a large plate. Arrange the squash pieces on top of yoghurt, then dollop the cilantro sauce on top and add the fresh cilantro and chilli flakes.
together with the garlic cloves. Drizzle with olive oil, season with za’atar, salt and pepper, and toss everything together until well coated. Place in the oven and roast for about 35 minutes, flipping everything halfway through for even browning. 3 While the squash roasts, make your cilantro sauce by combining all ingredients in a blender or food processor and blending until mostly smooth, adding a bit more olive oil if needed. Taste and add more salt if desired.
F O R M O R E LU X L A I T R EC I P E S , V I S I T LUXL AIT. LU
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SEASONAL FRUIT
5 FAC TS ABOUT
M I R A B EL L E P LU M S B U YING & STO R ING
T H E S M ALLEST I N THE P LU M FAMILY
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hen buying Mirabelle plums, check that they are nice and plump and free from any spots or damage. The fruit is very delicate and must be handled carefully to stop it going soft or mushy. Mirabelles will keep in the fridge for up to three days. They are easy to freeze, with or without their stone.
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irabelle plums are only about the size of a large cherry. They are yellow or greenish-yellow in colour, sometimes with distinctive ‘rosy cheeks’. The stone separates easily from the flesh, while the plum’s whitish, wipeable coating protects it from drying out.
M I RA BELLE F E STIVA L
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his golden, aromatic fruit is the star of the summer throughout the Lorraine region. No wonder, given that some 70% of the world’s Mirabelle plums are produced in the region, with up to 15,000 tonnes of the sun-ripened fruit harvested from more than 250,000 trees every year. There’s even a whole weeklong festival in Metz at the end of August dedicated to the Mirabelle plum!
DE LIC IO U S & HE ALT HY
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IMP O RT REST R IC T IO NS
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irabelle plums are hard to come by in the US, as only Mirabelles from the Lorraine region with the protected designation of origin (PDO) may be imported into the United States.
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his little power fruit is not only delicious, but healthy, too! Its high beta-carotene content is good for the skin and mucous membranes, and for your eyesight. Its Vitamin C content strengthens the body’s defences, while its potassium content lowers blood pressure and helps regulate the body’s water balance. It is low in acidity, making it very easy to digest, but is quite high in sugar!
SEASONAL FRUIT
RECIPES & PHOTOS ANNE LOMMEL
MIR ABELLE PLUM MUS TARD 3 JARS
• 400 g Mirabelle plums • 4 tbsp white wine vinegar • 75 g brown sugar • 50 g white sugar • 4 tbsp mustard powder
20 MINUTES
1 Wash, halve, stone and chop the Mirabelle plums.
Roughly puree with vinegar, then mix the fruit puree with sugar and mustard powder. Bring to the boil while stirring and simmer for about 3 minutes. 2 Pour the hot mustard into prepared jars, seal tightly and leave to cool. Serve with crackers and some cheese.
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SEASONAL FRUIT
MIR ABELLE PLUM CHUTNE Y
4 LARGE JARS 70 MINUTES
• 600 g Mirabelle plums • 3 red peppers • 4 red onions • 50 g ginger • 3 tbsp olive oil • 3 tsp curry • 9 tsp brown sugar • 200 ml white wine vinegar • Salt & pepper 1 Wash the Mirabelle plums and drain
well. Remove the stones and cut the fruit into small cubes. Clean and wash the peppers and cut into small cubes. Peel and finely dice the onions and ginger. 2 Heat the oil in a pan and sauté the onions, ginger and curry powder. Add the sugar and allow to caramelise. Add the peppers and Mirabelle plums and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Deglaze with vinegar and simmer over a low heat for about 20 minutes. Flavour with salt and pepper. Pour the hot chutney into clean screw-top jars and seal well.
TIP
Fruity Mirabelle plum chutney is an excellent accompaniment to savoury dishes, tastes delicious on freshly baked bread and is the perfect addition to a cheese platter.
WINE PAIRING VIGNUM PINOT GRIS WELLENS TEIN FOUL SCHE T TE
The roundness and fruitiness of the wine harmonize beautifully with the Mirabelle plum.
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MIR ABELLE PLUM CL AFOUTIS 1 BAKING DISH
• 700 g Mirabelle plums • 2 eggs • 75 g sugar • 25 g ground almonds • 30 g cornflour • 1 vanilla pod • 125 g cream • 125 g fresh whole milk • 20 g butter
1 HOUR 1 In a bowl, mix the eggs with the
granulated sugar, almond powder, cornflour and the split and scraped vanilla pod. 2 Add the cream and fresh whole milk. 3 Grease the baking dish with butter. 4 Wash the Mirabelle plums, remove the stones and arrange in the dish. Preheat the oven to 180°C (top and bottom heat).
5 Pour the clafoutis mixture over the plums
and bake in the oven for 30 minutes until set and coloured. Enjoy lukewarm. WINE PAIRING CRÉM ANT POLL-FABAIRE CUVÉE PINOT BL ANC
The bubbles will lighten the egginess of the clafoutis, and the fruitiness of the Pinot Blanc will elevate the Mirabelle plum.
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SEASONAL FRUIT
MIR ABELLE PLUM FR ANGIPANE TART 1 TA R T 2 1/2 H O U R S
For the almond shortcrust pastry • 100 g flour • 100 g ground almonds • 70 g sugar • 100 g butter • 1 egg • A pinch of salt For the frangipane • 175 g ground almonds • 130 g sugar • ¼ tsp salt • 2 eggs • 1 tsp vanilla extract, liquid • A few drops of bitter almond flavouring • 2 tbsp liquid butter • 500 g Mirabelle plums
1 Preheat the oven to 175°C
(top and bottom heat). 2 Knead the flour, ground almonds, sugar,
salt, 1 egg and butter into a smooth dough. 3 Wrap in cling film and chill for approx.
30 minutes. Grease the cake tin. Roll out the chilled shortcrust pastry on a floured work surface. Line the tart tin with it, press down and cut off any excess. Prick holes evenly in the base with a fork and chill again for an hour. 4 Wash and stone the Mirabelle plums. 5 Mix the ground almonds with the sugar and salt. Add the eggs, butter, vanilla and bitter almond flavouring and mix to a homogeneous cream. 6 Spread the cream evenly over the cake base and place the Mirabelle plums on top. 7 Bake in the oven for 40 minutes until the cake is golden brown.
WINE PAIRING CRÉM ANT VIGNUM
The almonds in the frangipane complement the oaky notes of the Crémant Vignum, while the Mirabelle plum enhances the fruitiness of the Pinot Blanc.
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ADVERTORIAL
BL ACK GOLD FACES A VA R IET Y OF CH A LLENGES With almost 2.5 billion cups drunk every day worldwide, coffee is the third most consumed beverage in the world after water and tea. Despite this success, the industry is increasingly affected by a number of issues that leave coffee producers in a precarious situation. In Luxembourg, this long-standing Fairtrade product has weathered the storm thanks to the commitment of several Luxembourg roasters.
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riginally from Ethiopia, coffee has been around in Europe for over four centuries, and is still highly appreciated by Western consumers for both its health benefits and its social role, including in Luxembourg. Fairtrade coffee was the first Fairtrade product to be launched on the Luxembourg market in 1992, where it became one of the most important products of the movement. Consumers in Luxembourg continue to support Fairtrade coffee, despite the fact that 2023 was a challenging year for the sector worldwide, due to inflation, volatile coffee prices on the world market, rising transport and packaging costs, persistent logistical problems and the adverse effects of climate change, which are having a negative impact on harvests and threatening the livelihoods of many small-scale producers. The coffee market in Luxembourg has in fact weathered the various storms fairly well thanks to consumers, but also thanks to Luxembourg Fairtrade roasters, the majority of whom have
increased their sales of Fairtrade coffee. This has led to a Luxembourg roaster topping the rankings for Fairtrade coffee sales, as was also the case in 2022. 480 tons of Fairtrade coffee were sold in 2023, which amounts to a market share of 12%.
FA I R T R A D E S U P P O R T S COFFEE PRODUCERS IN TIMES OF CRISIS In order to help preserve the coffee sector and support producers, the Fairtrade movement is implementing concrete measures such as the Fairtrade minimum price, the Fairtrade premium and the intensive work done to ensure fair prices. These are complemented by strict climate standards, which set out criteria for preventing and mitigating the effects of climate change. Among the initiatives put in place are dynamic agroforestry projects, a sustainable farming method that involves integrating food plants and shade trees on plots to restore balance within coffee ecosystems and make them more resilient. This prac-
tice also enables producers to diversify their sources of income. The Fairtrade movement furthermore supports producers in complying with the EU Deforestation Regulation (which concerns the import of certain products, including coffee), in particular by introducing innovative tools, such as geolocation of coffee plots, to extend satellite monitoring of forest areas and farms to all Fairtrade cooperatives of coffee producers around the world. This strategy’s holistic approach to climate change and the economic resilience of small coffee producers is essential for a sustainable food system, and is at the heart of the Fairtrade movement’s vision for a fairer and more equitable future. The future is fair
M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N FA I R T R A D E . LU
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BAKING CLASSICS
As autumn leaves begin to fall, our cravings turn to cosy comforts. Who better than our culinary maestro, Chef Alessandro Vitali, to satisfy our seasonal sweet tooth? This issue, he’s whipped up a coffee and hazelnut cake that’s the perfect companion for crisp afternoons. Get ready for a slice of Italian-inspired autumn bliss!
R EC I P E A L E S S A N D R O V I TA L I PHOTOS ENIA HAECK
COFFEE & HA ZELNUT CAKE 1 CAKE 2 HOURS For the biscuit • 50 g powdered almonds • 60 g icing sugar • 2 egg yolks (40 g) • 1 whole egg (50 g) • 60 g flour • 2 egg whites (60 g) • 30 g caster sugar For the coffee buttercream • 70 g milk • 20 g coffee beans • 5 g freeze-dried coffee • 160 g caster sugar • 1 whole egg • 350 g butter For soaking • 200 g cold espresso coffee For the decoration • Chopped roasted hazelnuts and chocolate coffee beans
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BAKING CLASSICS
1 Sift together the flour, powdered
2 Whisk the egg whites with the sugar
almonds and icing sugar, then add the eggs and mix with a whisk.
and fold gently into the mixture. Pour onto a baking tray lined with baking parchment and spread well.
4 Whisk the egg and sugar together.
5 Cook everything together over a low
Separately, boil the milk with the coffee beans and freeze-dried coffee, then strain over the egg and sugar mixture.
7 Lightly soak each layer of biscuit
with the espresso coffee, then spread 60 g of buttercream on top. Repeat this step 4 times.
heat, stirring until it reaches 82°C, then pour it into the bowl of a mixer and leave to cool for around 5 minutes.
8 Cover the edges with a thin layer
of buttercream and then with the chopped hazelnuts.
3 Bake at 175°C for about 10–12 minutes,
then leave to cool before cutting into 4 equal rectangles (about 13.5 cm x 18.5 cm).
6 Add the chopped, tempered butter
and beat with a whisk for around 10 minutes.
9 Decorate the cake using a piping bag
with a fluted tip and finish with the chocolate coffee beans and hazelnuts. Place it in the fridge and take out half an hour before serving.
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T R AV E L L I N G TA S T E B U D S
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T R AV E L L I N G TA S T E B U D S
R E C I P E & P H O T O PAU L A S O R YA N O
JAPANESE MISO R A MEN SERVES 4 45 MINUTES
• 4 tbsp neutral oil • 150 g tofu • 8 mushrooms, sliced • 1 medium shallot minced • 4 garlic cloves minced • 1 cm piece fresh ginger grated • 500 ml vegetable broth • 4 tbsp white miso paste • 2 tbsp Chinese sesame paste
• 1 tbsp sesame oil • 2 tbsp soy sauce • 1 tbsp hot chilli oil, optional • 2 tbsp rice vinegar • 200 g dry noodles • 1 baby bok choy • 1 green onion, sliced • 1 tbsp sesame seeds
or tahini, optional
1 In a medium-large pot, heat
5 Slowly add the miso paste mixture
2 tablespoons of oil. Add the tofu and cook for 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. 2 Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in the pot, then add the mushrooms and cook until soft and golden brown, about 6 minutes. Lower heat to medium-low and stir in the shallots, garlic, and ginger. Sauté until fragrant, stirring often, about 2 minutes. 3 Pour in the broth, stir, and simmer for 10 minutes to allow the flavours to melt. 4 Meanwhile, make your broth paste. In a small bowl, combine the miso, sesame or tahini paste (if using), sesame oil, soy sauce, chilli oil (if using), and rice vinegar and one ladle of the simmering broth. Whisk until smooth.
to the broth, stirring constantly until dissolved. Bring everything to a simmer and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Add bok choy during the last 3 minutes of cooking time. 6 Meanwhile, in a separate pot, cook your noodles as per the instructions on the package. Drain them well. 7 Divide the ramen noodles and broth between the serving bowls you are using. Add any other toppings of your choice and enjoy immediately!
TIP
A great addition to this ramen is a soft-boiled egg cut in half.
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DRINKS
PAR TNER R ECIPE
GA ME TERRINE SERVES 4–6 70 MINUTES
• 300 g wild liver (wild boar or venison), ground
• 600 g fresh, fat, unsmoked bacon (‘green bacon’), ground
• 1 white bread roll (only the inside)
• 200 ml milk • 1 whole egg, L • 100 ml cognac • 1 large onion, ground • 1 bunch of parsley • Salt & pepper • Herbes de Provence 1 Mince the bacon and liver.
Mix all the ingredients and place in a buttered terrine. Place 2 slices of bacon on top and bake in the oven at 180°C for 1 hour. 2 When the pâté has cooled, cover with a little brawn.
TIP
If possible, have the butcher chop the bacon together with the liver.
WINE PAIRING CULT BRUT, POLL-FABAIRE, DOM AINES VINSMOSELLE CRÉM ANT
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VINTNER PORTRAIT
DOMAINE CEP D’OR
A FAT HER-DAUGH T ER T E A M AT T HE HEL M The Cep d’Or wine estate is set on a hillside near the village of Hettermillen, overlooking the Moselle River, with German vineyards facing it on the opposite bank. This Luxembourgish winery is run by Jean-Marie Vesque and his daughter, Lisa. We met with this family of passionate winemakers.
TEXT MARION FINZI PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSK AS
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n 1994, while working as a winemaker at the Domaines Vinsmoselle cooperative (like his father before him), Jean-Marie Vesque decided it was high time he started making his own wine. So he bought ten hectares of vines in Stadtbredimus. “He really did start from scratch,” says his daughter, who was only three back then and reluctant to join her dad in the vineyard. “I got into it later,” she says, having made wine with her dad for about ten years now, a job she clearly loves. In the 30 years since it was set up, the estate has expanded from 10 to 20 hectares of land, and the building has had to be extended. “Our crémant production quickly took off. And since my dad has always matured it on laths for very long periods, we needed a larger storage space,” explains Lisa. “This hadn’t been planned for when the estate
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was built, as crémant was only just starting to be produced in Luxembourg, and no one knew how it would develop.” Crémant now accounts for 45% of their output. To accommodate this growth, an outbuilding was built in 2005. A wine shop and tasting room were also added to fully enhance the visitor experience, with a wine bar open every day providing a further setting in which to enjoy a nice drop. “A sommelier is on hand to attend to visitors every day, and I’m also never too far away,” she tells us.
A T R A I L B L A Z I N G E S TAT E Jean-Marie has been ahead of the curve ever since he established the Cep D’Or estate. In addition to classic grape varieties such as Pinot Gris and Riesling, he charted new territory in the 1990s by
blending Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for his crémant cuvée. “That’s how they did in the Champagne region, but not here. He was the first do it in Luxembourg,” explains his daughter. Cep d’Or also makes a Muscat Ottonel, a rarity in Luxembourg and hugely popular among customers. But that by no means marks the limits of this passionate winemaker’s innovations. He’s the man behind ‘Cuvée 36’, so named because it is stored on laths for 36 months. When it was first produced, virtually nobody was ageing their crémant so long, but this has now become the norm. “He’s always had loads of ideas and his own unique vision, which could only be achieved by making his own wine,” reveals Lisa. This same drive for innovation prompted him to plant three grape vari-
VINTNER PORTRAIT
eties resistant to cryptogamic diseases in 2015. “Since fewer chemicals were needed to treat these grape varieties, we also decided to certify these parcels as organic,” explains Lisa. She makes no secret of their aim to gradually go 100% organic, but admits that this comes with a few caveats: “It would need to be feasible in terms of labour, since organic farming is slightly more demanding, and we’d have to adapt our working methods.” So while the Vesque family is up for the challenge, it remains to be seen whether it can be done in practice.
LISTENING WITH AN OPEN MIND When we ask Lisa whether it’s easy to work with her dad, she smiles and admits that while obviously nothing’s ever perfect, she still considers herself
lucky: “My dad’s a very good listener who takes the time to think things over before offering his opinion. Sometimes he says OK to something but suggests a different way of doing it which I hadn’t considered!” Basically, the two of them discuss things constructively. For instance, her dad carefully considered her suggestion of introducing the Pinot Meunier grape variety for their crémants, a practice common in Champagne but rare in Luxembourg. “We both went to the Champagne region to talk to local winemakers and then took advantage of a land consolidation in Stadtbredimus to plant some of these vines two years ago.” Although last year’s crop had to be blended with Pinot Noir due to insufficient yields, Lisa is happy with the result. “The base wine is good and has a distinctive
flavour. I’m looking forward to making it this year, hopefully without using a blend.” You don’t have to be Sherlock Holmes to work out that constant communication is the secret to this relaxed father-daughter working relationship. And that’s not likely to end any time soon, as Jean-Marie Vesque plans to continue tending to his vines for some time to come. “He’s planning to gradually slow down, but he’ll never fully stop working and that suits me fine,” says Lisa. Isn’t it lovely when families get on?
DOMAINE CEP D’OR 15, ROUTE DU VIN L- 5 42 9 H Ë T T ER M I L L EN CEPDOR.LU
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BAR SNAPSHOT
L E T R I A N O N C O C K TA I L B A R
T I M ELESS A LLU R E TEXT CHAREL HEINEN PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT
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ehind the walls of the venerable Grand Hotel Cravat lies a true gem from the past: Le Trianon Cocktail Bar. This bar whisks you back to the swinging 60s with its authentic decor, wooden paneling, sparkling chandeliers, and heavy drapes. It’s a place where the spirit of countless wild nights and hidden secrets lingers in the air like a thick, sweet mist. Since March this year, Tom Herber has been welcoming guests at the bar. He’s a dedicated bartender with just as much character as the bar itself. After gaining extensive experience in Vienna’s culinary scene, he returned to Luxembourg and found his place at Hotel Cravat. “As a Luxembourger, it’s a point of pride to run such a historic bar. I’m very grateful to Mr Cravat for this opportunity,” he says. When it comes to drinks, Tom leaves no stone unturned. Old Fashioneds, Sours, the best White Russian in town – you name it, he can make it. Modern classics like the Gin Basil Smash or an Espresso Martini? Absolutely part of his repertoire. “Of course, we have beer too,” he says with a cheeky smile. “But we are primarily a cocktail bar.” With each cocktail, you get a complimentary nut mix and a glass of water – on the house, of course. These little touches contribute to Le Trianon’s unique charm. With Tom behind the bar, Le Trianon has gained fresh energy and is set to become the go-to spot for anyone who appreciates great cocktails and genuine service in a stylish atmosphere.
L E T R I A N O N C O C K TA I L B A R 2 9 B O U L E VA R D F. D. R O O S E V ELT L-24 5 0 LU X E M B O U R G B I T . LY/ L E -T R I A N O N
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BAR SNAPSHOT
OLD CUBAN “A S A L U X E M B O U R G E R , IT’S A POINT OF PRIDE TO R UN SUCH A HI S TO R I C BAR .” TOM HERBER
1 GLASS 3 MINUTES
• 4.5 cl aged rum (Tom suggests: Santa Teresa Solera Rum) • 2.25 cl lime juice • 1.5 cl gomme syrup (alt. simple syrup) • 1 dash Angostura bitters • Fresh mint • To top: Champagne or Crémant 1 Put the rum, lime juice, gomme
syrup, Angostura bitters and mint leaves in a shaker with some ice. 2 Shake well and double strain into a Nick & Nora glass or similar. 3 Top with Champagne or Crémant and stir gently with a bar spoon. 4 Garnish with some fresh mint leaves.
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CAFE PORTRAIT
A NCIEN CINÉM A CA FÉ Some places boast a unique history. The Ancien Cinéma in Vianden is one such example. Having closed its doors in the 1980s, the lights of this former cinema came back on in 2005, after Maciej Karczewski took on a renovation project that could be seen as slightly crazy. Let’s wind back the clock.
TEXT MARION FINZI PHOTOS ENIA HAECK
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he story of the current café began when Maciej Karczewski and his wife Hanna bought the property in 2005. “We fell in love with the place on our very first visit,” he explains. And yet the Polish native was by no means a connoisseur of cinema or coffee. “People in the village wondered if he’d lost his mind, as the place was so old and derelict,” reminisces Heng Schammel, who has been managing the café since January. As you’ll have gathered, the original cinema goes back quite a few years. In fact, it was set up in the backroom of an electrical store in the 1930s, with the last film screened in the mid-1980s. After that, only the bar area remained open, until the early 2000s. The interior has a distinctly vintage feel, since Maciej scoured about a hundred bric-a-brac shops for items to furnish the café. A few wood and velvet seats from the old-style cinema serve as a reminder of its past. Also on display are a number of treasures discovered in the cellar, like the cast-iron light fixtures fitted above the bar. “These were once dotted around the castle (Editor’s note: Vianden Castle) to provide lighting, and the holes you can see are actually bullet holes”... It seems history has even found a niche at the bar.
A C U LT U R A L V E N U E I N T H E B R OA D E S T S E N S E From the outset, the café’s owner wanted to create a venue for all types of cultural events. “Our first event was part of the BicherFest book festival in 2007.” The venue now hosts nearly 80 events every year that cover the broadest
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“ W E D O O U R B E S T TO P R O M OT E LO C A L P R O D U C T S . W E ’ R E A LWAYS G O I N G TO O F F ER A G L A S S O F S I M O N I N S T E A D O F A H EI N EK EN ! ” HENG SCHAMMEL
cultural spectrum, from art exhibitions to readings, plays and jazz concerts. Maciej was also keen to build bridges between Eastern and Western Europe. “We are a platform for cooperation between artists from Eastern and Western Europe who pursue dozens of artistic projects every year,” he explains. As part of this work, the Ancien Cinéma helps organise the CinEast Festival, which screens films in Vianden.
A CAFÉ , BAR AND REFUGE The Ancien Cinéma is also intended as a place for people to meet up over a coffee or a beer. “We get regulars in who are here every day from opening time, as well as tourists, obviously, and customers who come to see a film or exhibition and then stay for a drink,” says Heng. Heng Schammel has been running the bar with great passion since January. Maciej gave the job to this loyal customer, lifelong Vianden resident and singer on the Ancien Cinéma stage in his spare time, so that he could focus more on the cultural side of things. “In this place, we do our best to promote local products, which means we’re always going to offer tourists a glass of Simon instead of a Heineken!” Here, customers can buy teas and infusions by Téi Vum Séi, beers from the Simon brewery, pastries from the neighbouring bakery, and coffee roasted by Collette, a coffee shop that has recently opened in the same street. They can also order food made in the kitchen of the adjoining kebab restaurant. “We’ve worked together since the outset!” There are tonnes of games and books to keep kids occupied, and episodes of Tom and Jerry are shown afternoons on the big screen, so mums and dads can have a few moments’ peace and quiet to relax. The Ancien Cinéma is one of those precious havens where it’s so nice to just hang out. And thanks to the two managers’ infectious passion for the place, it seems its story is not about to end any time soon.
ANCIEN CINÉMA CAFÉ 23, GRAND-RUE L- 9 41 0 V I A N D EN ANCIENCINEMA.LU
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F E AT U R E
BE W I TCHED BY T HE GR EEN FA IRY Very few spirits have achieved such legendary status as absinthe. In the wake of a century-long ban, the ‘green fairy’, as it’s sometimes known, has still not completely shed its disreputable image or appeal as forbidden fruit.
TEXT & PHOTOS CHAREL HEINEN
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et’s first get down to basics. Absinthe is a spirit containing common wormwood, Roman wormwood, star anise, fennel, hyssop, lemon balm and a lot of alcohol. Its ABV normally varies between 45% and 70%, with a recent trend for even stronger varieties. Usually, ice-cold water is added to absinthe, typically in a ratio of one part absinthe to three or four parts water. Please beware though that adding ice cubes directly to absinthe is an absolute no-no, since the melting ice dilutes the aromas.
T H E R I S E O F T H E G R E E N FA I RY Recipes for wormwood-based wine brews can be found in herbal medicine books dating back to the Middle Ages. However, it was not until the late 18th
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century that modern absinthe was first made in the Swiss canton of Neuchâtel. The first documented absinthe distillery, ‘Dubied Père & Fils’, started production in 1798. Shortly afterwards, neighbouring regions of France began making the spirit themselves, and absinthe became a regional specialty. Its breakthrough in France came in the early 19th century, when the cheap herbal spirit was added to the rations of soldiers fighting in the Algerian War to disinfect water and boost morale. Returning soldiers brought absinthe to Paris saloons, making it popular as a cheap and exotic alternative to wine at a time when the winemaking industry was in crisis. During the Belle Époque, the ‘green fairy’ achieved cult status as the muse of many
famous artists and poets including Manet, Rimbaud and Verlaine. Legend has it that Vincent Van Gogh cut off his own ear under the influence of absinthe. Whether or not this is true, stories like these have certainly served to fuel the hype around the drink. The church and press condemned absinthe as the devil’s potion, leading to an almost Europe-wide ban in the early 20th century. It is suspected that the wine industry instigated the campaign for its prohibition. The compound thujone contained in the drink was decried as a cause of addiction and hallucinations, although we now know that thujone levels in absinthe are too low to cause such ill effects. In fact, the real culprits were probably poor alcohol quality and overconsumption.
F E AT U R E
FO R B I D D E N F R U I T Campaigns to discredit absinthe merely served to promote the mystical aura surrounding the drink. Its rebellious reputation was also stoked by figures such as Ernest Hemingway and occultist Aleister Crowley singing its praises during the prohibition. A period of relative calm followed, with most French people going back to drinking wine or beer for those in northern France. Meanwhile, absinthe continued to be distilled and traded on the quiet in its home canton of Neuchâtel. Then, scandal broke out! During a state visit to Switzerland in April 1983, the French President, François Mitterrand, was served a seemingly harmless dessert named ‘Soufflé glacé de la fée’ in Neuchâ-
tel. Later, the restaurateur responsible for the dish brazenly admitted in a radio interview that it contained the ‘green fairy’, despite the spirit still being illegal. This sparked a massive media backlash. In Switzerland, a showcase trial was brought against the restaurateur, who in the end got off lightly with a four-day suspended sentence due to insufficient evidence. This incident rekindled the public debate around the ban on absinthe, which was eventually overturned in Switzerland in 2005. Once again, the spirit could be legally produced, sold and consumed. France, Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands followed suit to free the green fairy from her shackles around the turn of the millennium, while here in
Luxembourg, the ban remained in force until 2022.
A RENAISSANCE Nowadays, absinthe is once again distilled throughout Europe, particularly in the Czech Republic, where varieties with lower anise content and high ABVs are all the rage. The legendary spirit is even produced here in Luxembourg, or more specifically in a small distillery in Eschweiler. Absinthe stands out for its versatility and distinctive flavour. It sparkles not just as an aperitif, but also adds a certain something to cocktails, savoury dishes and desserts. And the ‘Soufflé glacé à la fée’ that caused such a stir in the 1980s is well worth preparing at home – you’re sure to be impressed!
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F E AT U R E
R E C I P E M A I S O N D E L’A B S I N T H E M Ô T I E R S PHOTO STUDIO444.CH
‘ SOUFFLÉ GL ACÉ DE L A FÉE’ SERVES 6 30 MINUTES + FREEZING TIME
• 3 eggs • 100 g sugar • 250 ml heavy cream (35% fat) • 50 ml absinthe (Absinthe DuVallon) Prepare the molds by lining the top edge with baking paper, leaving about 2 cm overhang. (Use a rubber band or tape to secure it.) 2 Combine the eggs and sugar in a bowl and heat over a water bath. 3 Whisk the mixture over the water bath at a temperature of 67°C until it reaches a creamy, frothy consistency. 4 Remove the bowl from the water bath and cool it in an ice water bath. 5 Whip the cream until stiff peaks form. 6 Gently fold the whipped cream and absinthe into the egg mixture. 7 Fill the molds so that the mixture extends about 1.5 cm above the rim. 8 Freeze overnight. 9 Remove from the freezer 5 minutes before serving, take off the baking paper, and dust with cocoa powder. 1 0 Optional: Create a small hole in the soufflé and pour in a little absinthe for an extra kick. 1
AB SINT HE B R U N N E R AU R É L I E & K L AU S E R YA N N
E D I T I O N S L I V R EO -A L P H I L 1 2 0 PAG E S I S B N 9 78 -2- 8 8 9 5 0 - 0 2 3 - 9
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ADVERTORIAL
AUTUMN M AGIC
T HE MOSELLE VA LLEY ’S FIN EST HOU R
PHOTO MARION DESSARD
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s crisp breezes herald the changing season, the Moselle air fills with the intoxicating scent of ripe grapes. Vineyard rows hum with activity as the harvest begins, and cellars awaken from their summer slumber. While vintners and wine enthusiasts eagerly anticipate next year’s creations, there’s one special treat ready to be savoured right now: Federweißer. This young, effervescent wine offers the first taste of the 2024 vintage, cherished throughout the region and beyond. Still cloudy and only partially fermented, Federweißer captivates with its milky appearance and delightfully fruity sweetness. It’s the perfect companion to a slice of hearty onion tart or any autumnal dish. Picture yourself on a sun-dappled afternoon, strolling through vineyards painted in nature’s richest hues as the landscape prepares for winter’s embrace. Cap off your wanderings at one of the Moselle’s cosy wine taverns, where you can savour this seasonal delight first hand. Craving more autumn festivities? Visit vins-cremants.lu to discover upcoming celebrations of Luxembourg’s finest wines and sparkling crémants. Autumn along the Luxembourgish Moselle is a time of warmth and togetherness, of harvest bounty and nature’s grand finale. Come and experience an unforgettable feast for the senses in our enchanting corner of wine country. Cheers!
M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N O N VINS-CREMANTS.LU
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SHAKE IT BABY!
A N N I V ER SA RY COCK TA I L S KACHEN is celebrating 10 years! That’s definitely worth a toast – and what better way to do it than with a glass of Crémant? But why settle for plain Crémant when you can have something special? We’ve called in Raphael Betti, the mastermind behind B.A.C. and MUUMs, to create two unique cocktails just for this occasion. Cheers to mixing and tasting these delightful creations!
RECIPE RAPHAEL BETTI PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT
RHABARBAR A 1 GLASS
5 MINUTES + SYRUP
• 4 cl gin • 1 cl Lët’z Spritz • 4 cl rhubarb syrup* • 1 cl elderflower syrup • 1 cl fresh lemon juice • Aquafaba / eggwhite • Crémant to top • Garnish: Pepper mix 1 Shake all ingredients (except the
Crémant) without ice. 2 Add some ice and shake
the mixture again. 3 Top off with Crémant. 4 Garnish with a pepper mix.
* In spring, you can easily make your own rhubarb syrup:
• 500 g rhubarb • 250 ml water • 100 g sugar • Juice of 1 lemon 1 Cut the rhubarb into small
T H E ‘ F L AT C R É M A N T ’, A N OT H ER C R E AT I O N BY R A P H A EL B E T T I , C A N B E F O U N D O N
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K ACHEN.LU
chunks and cook in water until it falls apart. 2 Filter through a towel. 3 Add sugar and lemon juice.
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ADVERTORIAL
T HE WOR LD OF I M PORT ING AU T HEN T IC W IN ES & SPIR I TS Wengler Châteaux & Domaines: committed to and passionate about wine quality and appreciation.
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ach and every bottle in Wengler Châteaux et Domaines’ portfolio is carefully curated by Gérard Wengler and his daughter Charline. They visit wine estates across Europe and the world and work directly with winemakers and producers to unearth the finest bottles. All wines are selected with the utmost attention to detail and reflect the terroir, traditional craftsmanship and authenticity. It is imperative that every bottle embodies perfectly the region from which it comes.
B R E A K I N G D OW N BARRIERS! The wine industry can be notoriously intimidating. Wengler is therefore aiming to make wine experiences more accessible, simplistic and relaxed, while retaining all of the elegance of the world of wine and its steadfast commitment to quality. All bottles selected represent the very best of wine culture, honouring the terroir and authenticity.
TRANSFERRING A N E M OT I O N ! A passion for fine wine is about more than simply sourcing a quality product – it’s about connecting the winemaker behind the wine with the people who
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WENGLER IS AIMING TO MAKE WINE E XPERIENCES MORE ACCESSIBLE, SIMPLISTIC AND REL A XED.
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ABOUT WENGLER
enjoy it, transferring an emotion from producer to drinker. Wengler’s role as importer is to capture this inherent emotion and forge a connection that goes beyond the product in the glass.
W I N E A S A FO R M O F C U LT U R E ! Wine is more than just a drink, it’s a form of culture. A culture of passions, showcasing the diversity and beauty of the terroir and exceptional craftsmanship. Wine embodies its origins, is inextricably linked to the land from which it comes, capturing its unique mineral composition, from limestone to slate, sandstone to quartzite. These nuances shape the character of the wine and recount the story of the region in which it is grown, be it Burgundy, Savoy, Piedmont, the Loire, Sicily, Burgenland... a story that expresses itself in both aroma and taste. A quality wine must faithfully convey – from vineyard to cellar, bottle to glass – all that the terroir is and has to offer.
E AC H R EG I O N H A S I T S OW N D I S T I N C T S T Y L E ! Flavours that echo the land: Each vintage is a unique reflection of the year, influenced by climate, soil and weather. The skill of the winemaker lies in adapting these variations to create a wine that captures the essence of the vintage. Every bottle tells a story of resilience and creativity, revealing the unique style of its winemaker, influenced by their own personal experiences and preferences. This diversity of styles is what makes wine so rich in variety and fascinating. And it is precisely this that Wengler aims to capture and that guides it in the selection of wines for its portfolio. Wengler’s passion for and steadfast commitment to wine quality and appreciation means that wine lovers and connoisseurs will find just the right bottle whatever the occasion, be it a casual dinner with friends or family or a big celebration, and whatever their budget.
Wengler is a family business that specialises in the import and distribution of authentic wines and spirits in Luxembourg. Its portfolio boasts a unique and authentic selection of over 1,700 wines for all tastes and budgets, from 27 different countries, spanning 56 wine-growing regions. From small, high-end producers to big, prestigious wine houses, all bottles are carefully curated with a true passion for quality. By sharing wines that are elegant and epitomise the terroir, Wengler Châteaux & Domaines connects winemakers and producers around the world with those who appreciate the art of wine-making. Celebrating heritage and craftsmanship, Wengler aims to break down barriers and bring a new, more contemporary approach to the wine industry.
WINESHOP
A unique and authentic selection of wines from high-end producers and prestigious estates awaits to be discovered at Wengler’s wine shop in Rosport. Whether you’re a connoisseur or simply curious to explore good wines, you’ll find experienced sommeliers on hand here to advise you and offer you personalised tasting experiences tailored to your palate and preferences. W E N G L E R C H ÂT E AU X & D O M A I N E S 2 R U E N EU VE - L- 6 5 81 R O S P O R T +3 5 2 7 3 0 3 7 3 - I N F O @W EN G L ER . LU
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LIFESTYLE
BUSINESS
WOR K ER S DESPER AT ELY N EEDED IN T HE HOSPI TA LI T Y IN DUST RY The hospitality industry is currently experiencing major staff shortages. This situation has forced employers to take action and review their employment practices, faced with the challenges of finding qualified staff. A focus on negative aspects of this industry, where people are passionate about their work and students continue to enrol on courses, is however proving unhelpful.
TEXT MARION FINZI
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ome employers openly admit that they are no longer able to find committed staff. This shortage is often attributed to the very long hours that people sometimes have to work. Moreover, staff keen to improve their work-life balance are no longer willing to accept the split shifts (between the lunch and dinner services) imposed by some restaurants. Many places have responded to the situation by closing more days than the traditional Sunday and Monday in order to attract staff. “I couldn’t find anyone willing to work evenings anymore, so I decided just to serve breakfast and lunch,” says one citycentre restaurant owner, by no means an isolated case. In his view, it was the only way of continuing to offer his customers a quality service. “My staff are happy working through from 7 am to 4 pm and I also get to spend my evenings with my children,” he says. A while back, Michelin-starred chef Julien Lucas (from La Villa de Camille et Julien) also decided to stay closed on Saturday and Sunday. This has improved his workers’ work-life balance by giving them a real weekend like everyone else. “Since August, we’ve even started taking three consecutive days off (Editor’s note: Sunday, Monday and Tuesday)”, explains Camille from La Villa.
“ I CO U L D N ’ T FI N D A NYO N E WI L L I N G TO WORK EVENINGS ANYMORE, SO I DECIDED JUST TO SERVE B R E A K FA S T A N D LU N C H .”
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“ W E H A V E C O M P L E T E LY OVERHAULED OUR COURSES AND STEPPED U P O U R C O M M U N I C AT I O N T O AT T R A C T N E W MICHEL LANNERS S TUDENTS .”
A S I M I L A R S I T UAT I O N I N NEIGHBOURING COUNTRIES Luxembourg is by no means alone in experiencing this phenomenon. Across our borders, restaurants in Belgium, France and Germany are also struggling to recruit both long-term staff and seasonal workers. France reported a shortage of 200,000 seasonal workers (figures provided by the UMIH – the French trade association for the hospitality industry) before the start of the summer season. This is mainly due to poor pay for this type of work given the number of working hours required per week, with overtime also rarely paid. Meanwhile in Belgium, the hospitality industry accounts for approximately a third of all professions experiencing staff shortages in the region of Wallonia, according to public employment service Forem.
BUCKING THE TREND Fortunately, not all restaurants are having to reduce their working hours due to staff shortages. For instance, Brasserie Beaulieu in the Bonnevoie district is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Many cafés are also open all week. “We get CVs from really keen candidates who are prepared to work weekends,” says
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one of the owners of Intense Coffee, a café in Limpertsberg. The young entrepreneur has recently opened a second café, admitting that one of the reasons he did this was to offer his staff a better work-life balance. “Having two cafés will give us a larger pool of staff, which means we can split the working day into more shifts. This will mean happier staff, which is our top priority.”
A D D R E S S I N G T H E H O S P I TA L I T Y I N D U S T RY ’ S I M AG E P R O B L E M The current situation raises questions about the future of the profession. For instance, it whether it will continue to attract young people remains to be seen. Michel Lanners, Principal of the École d’Hôtellerie et de Tourisme du Luxembourg (EHTL) in Diekirch, gives us reason for hope: “The number of enrolments in our school has not fallen; in fact, quite the opposite. While seven years ago, we had 253 enrolments, over 400 students have now enrolled for the coming academic year!” He admits to feeling quite angry about the negative image of the hospitality industry often peddled by the Luxembourg press. “It’s a mistake to focus on external factors such as split shifts or late working hours, which are also seen in many other professions,” he explains. In his view,
work needs to be done on promoting the profession and enhancing its appeal. The EHTL has therefore embarked on a major shift in its approach and an effort to reposition itself. “We have completely overhauled our courses and stepped up our communication to attract new students,” he explains. In response to acute staff shortages, the EHTL has also put on courses for people with refugee status and young adults who have recently arrived in Luxembourg (particularly from Ukraine). Its principal also proudly outlines the ‘Dream Job Ambassador’ programme set up by the Horesca Federation to promote and recognise hospitality professions. He believes that the appointment of Steve Martellini as the new General Secretary of Horesca is sure to bring new impetus. The EHTL is also opening a new campus in southern Luxembourg with capacity for 200 new places, marking a further crucial development for the future and training of hospitality students. “The government has realised how difficult it is for young people to travel to Diekirch, and this new site will increase our appeal. Although all these changes will take time, the stars are gradually aligning. I’m confident,” concludes Michel Lanners. We are too.
ADVERTORIAL
‘SCHOULSPUERFESTER’
A T R A DI T ION T H AT H A S M A R K ED GEN ER AT IONS . . . OF SAV ER S ‘Schoulspuerfest’, or ‘School Savings Day’, is a highlight in Luxembourg’s calendar. This national initiative from savings bank Spuerkeess was launched over 60 years ago, with the aim of teaching children about saving and the value of money from an early age. An annual event that has become one of Luxembourg’s greatest traditions, an enjoyable educational rite of passage for the country’s youngest citizens.
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very year, some 6,400 children aged 6-7 from over 180 primary schools are invited to attend a special show organised by Spuerkeess in theatres across the country. A Luxembourg tradition that dates back over 60 years. The very first ‘Schoulspuerfest’ (‘School Savings Day’) took place in 1961, an initiative of Luxembourg savings bank Spuerkeess that seeks to teach children the importance of saving and the value of money in a charming, enjoyable event that will stay with them a lifetime. ‘School Savings Day’ is held in line with Spuerkeess’ statutory mission to promote saving in all its forms among the population of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, and consists of a children’s show devised especially for the occasion. Over the years, the show has been adapted multiple times, to reflect changes in Luxembourg society, in particular its increasingly culturally diverse population. Sketches have given way to puppet shows, puppet
shows to fairy tales… Since 2017, the bank’s mascots, Tweenie and Tweena, have been staging a sing-along musical show, created by Luxembourg composer and producer Robi Arend. For more than half a century, ‘School Savings Day’ has been a very special occasion that school children look forward to every year with much anticipation.
‘ MY F I R S T P I G GY B A N K ’ Another lovely ‘School Savings Day’ tradition has also endured over the six decades of the initiative: the ‘Spuerbéchs’ (piggy bank). As they leave the theatre, each child is given a ‘Spuerbéchs’ as a delightful keepsake of their time at the show and to help start them off on their personal savings path. Produced by Villeroy & Boch, this symbol of savings has retained its square shape since 1961. Just like the shows, however, the design has changed over the years. The castles of Luxembourg that once adorned the ‘Spuerbéchs’ have
been replaced by images of Spuerkeess mascot Tweenie. There are over 50 different versions of this earthenware money box, which is still, for most parents, the primary way of talking to their children about money and helping them develop good money management skills. To encourage children to save, they’re also given a €50 gift voucher to be credited to a Spuerkeess Tweenz savings account. Some local authorities support the savings initiative by contributing an additional gift voucher for the children. The next ‘School Savings Day’ will take place in April-June 2025. ‘Schoulspuerfest’, supported by the Ministry of Education, Children and Youth, is a wonderful tradition that has shaped generations of young Luxembourg savers, and is set to continue to do so for generations to come.
M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N SPUERKEESS.LU
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ARTIST PORTRAIT
FR ANK Y DAUBENFELD
T HE BE AU T Y OF T HE M YST ER IOUS Franky Daubenfeld’s paintings push the boundaries of the familiar, interweaving the eerie with the everyday and inviting us to explore the unknown world in between. His works of art are like stages on which every object plays a role – sometimes visible, sometimes hidden, but always fascinating.
TEXT CHAREL HEINEN PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT
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ranky Daubenfeld grew up in the town of Leudelange. A typical Luxembourger ‘Zillennial’, that micro-generation between Millennials and Gen Z, who played team football and went to school, and then abroad to university. Art has always been part of his life: “As a child, I often came second or third in painting competitions. It wasn’t anything special, but it motivated me to keep going.” At school, he also enjoyed acting and was passionate about films. This love of the creative ultimately led him to study for a degree in art. It was in particular his time in Henning Bohl’s class in Vienna that made him decide to pursue a career as an artist: “My dream is still to be able to make a living from my art. I don’t have high expectations, I just want to be able to do what I love.”
MYS T E R I O U S R E L I C S Franky positions his motifs against a background of sepia tones, interspersed with warm, dark purple and red tones. They resemble still lifes, but are in fact objects whose purpose and meaning are obscure. Franky’s latest paintings explore the unknown, and yet familiar, the subconscious and the mysterious and eerie. The writings of cultural theorist Mark Fisher were a major inspiration for him: “In ‘The Weird and the Eerie’, for example, Fisher describes artefacts from science fiction novels
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as ‘inorganic artefacts; objects whose purpose and meaning remain unclear’. This gives them the status of a fetish or relic,” he explains. “It’s this that sparked my interest in exploring and developing the visual language of such objects.” He uses everyday objects as models, which he first seeks out and then puts on show: “I’m always on the lookout for interesting objects – and so you could say that I’m always working. First, I photograph the objects I find and then I sketch them. This process helps me decide whether the object in question has any artistic potential. It’s a bit like casting them for a film or theatre show.”
AN ARTISTIC ENTERPRISE
“ I ’ M A LWAY S O N THE LOOKOUT FOR INTERESTING OBJECTS – A N D S O YO U CO U L D S AY T H AT I ’ M A LWAY S WORKING.”
At almost 30 years of age, Franky is still at the start of his career. Yet, this enterprising artist has already showcased his work at a number of national and international exhibitions, with some considerable success. Last year, he not only exhibited at the third edition of Young Luxembourgish Artists, but also took first place in the group exhibition for young artists at the third Art Biennial in Vianden. The prize was a three-week residency at the town’s art gallery, from 28 July to 18 August. “The residency in Vianden was an amazing opportunity,” enthuses Franky. “I particularly liked the fact that I was given complete artistic freedom. I love experimenting – when I get that blank canvas, I’m like a kid in a candy shop.” Being able to focus solely on being creative is, however, a luxury for artists these days: “Artists today have to be business-savvy. They have to dedicate time and effort to marketing, selling and shipping their work, maintaining a presence on social media and much more.” And yet there’s nothing else in the world that Franky would rather do. “In an increasingly cold and calculated world, art has always saved me from going crazy. It brings me much joy and fulfilment; it’s my purpose in life,” he says. “I think absolutely everybody, without exception, can benefit from being creative, in whatever shape or form that may be.”
FRANK Y DAUBENFELD @FRANK YDAUBENFELD
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R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N
A R ESTAU R A N T W I T H A GR EEN SOU L La Villa de Camille et Julien is an exquisite establishment, boasting handpicked items, handmade touches and homemade cuisine.
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“LIKE JULIEN’S CUISINE, WHICH IS V E R Y P L A N T- B A S E D , T H E D I N I N G ROOM COMPRISES A PLETHORA O F ‘ N AT U R A L I N G R E D I E N T S ’, W H I C H M A R R Y P E R F E C T LY T O C R E AT E A D E L E C TA B L E W H O L E .” C A M I L L E TA R D I F
TEXT MARIE TISSIER PHOTOS RAMUNAS ASTRAUSK AS
“I
’m in charge of the décor,” says Camille Tardif, who co-owns La Villa de Camille et Julien with chef Julien Lucas. From the moment you step inside this fine dining restaurant, awarded a Michelin star in 2022, you’ll be blown away by the elegant, quirky interior.
PA M PA S G R A S S A N D E X T R AVAGA N C E Opposite the entrance, the large steel bar – a relic of the previous occupants – heaves under beautiful handmade flower arrangements. Huge vases of dried flowers and herbs jostle for space around an enormous branch – “salvaged from Hamm woods on a walk during lockdown”. Overlooking this savannah-like scene, with its pampas grasses, extravagant wooden chandeliers add an Indonesian touch. Because that’s what Camille Tardif’s vision is all about: mixing and matching styles, designers, eras and cultures to create a coherent aesthetic.
CABINET OF CURIOSITIES A bookcase to the right of the entrance showcases “items that belonged to my mother and grandparents. Like these giraffes, this elephant, this glass bottle, for instance,” says La Villa’s owner, who grew up in Marseille with a father in the merchant navy and a mother whose work as a consultant occasionally took her to Africa. “The décor is part colonial, part cabinet of curiosities... I’ve also added in some pieces from the Pacific. They’ve come from Bora Bora, where Julien
and I met while working on the opening of the Four Seasons there. I was in charge of housekeeping, and sourced all the resort’s interior decorations from local craftsmen,” she recalls.
N AT U R A L TO N E S The dining room features simple, natural tones, imitation herringbone parquet flooring and a high ceiling with exposed concrete. The furniture, by Lorrainebased Collinet, is in white and wood. “Like Julien’s cuisine, which is very plant-based, the dining room comprises a plethora of ‘natural ingredients’, which marry perfectly to create a delectable whole. This season, I’ve decided to put little coloured granite birds on bases, by artist Rémi Mersch, on the tables instead of fresh flowers. At Christmas, I’ll be putting dried cotton balls in crystal vases that used to belong to our grandmothers, and at Easter, gold bunnies...” Camille handpicks family heirlooms and items from both flea markets and high-end brands, such as Sichel, Kichechef and Maisons du Monde, to elevate her interior design. “And I like to change things up – I move furniture around, replace cushions, rearrange dried flowers... Depending on the season and my mood.” And if you see a baby elephant when you enter the restaurant, Camille Tardif explains that in feng-shui, the elephant has “positive chi”, and therefore symbolises good luck. Given the couple signed their lease in Luxembourg just ten days before the first lockdown hit, you can certainly say that a little luck goes a long way!
L A VILL A DE CAMILLE ET JULIEN 5 , R U E D E P U LV ER M Ü H L L-2 0 9 0 LU X E M B O U R G L AV I L L A . LU
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M U S T- H AV E S
RETRO REMIX
ST Y LISH ‘NEWSTA LGI A’ FOR YOU R HOM E Ever heard of ‘newstalgia’? It’s likely you’ve come across this trend without even realising it. The term ‘newstalgia’ is a portmanteau of ‘new’ and ‘nostalgia’. Think contemporary artists’ remakes of songs from the '70s fused with EDM beats and reboots of '80s film classics. It seems there’s nothing cooler these days than reviving the popular culture of the past and giving it a new, modern twist.
TEXT CHAREL HEINEN
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he newstalgia trend has also found its way into interior design, with retro pieces skilfully interwoven with contemporary designs, creating a playful, eclectic aesthetic. And if you’re still in any doubt, you need only head over to Instagram, where the trend is, well, trending, to see what we mean. This hottest new interiors trend involves introducing different periods and styles of objects – like a vintage side table or some retro-inspired wallpaper – into your living space to give it a cosy, nostalgic look and feel. According to experts, the trend emerged as a response to the uncertain times faced during the pandemic, when people began increasingly craving things and spaces that made them feel warm and secure: old electronic devices, toys, music, films, furniture, patterns, colours and shapes from their childhood and youth.
A C R E AT I V E P L AYG R O U N D There’s no rule book when it comes to bringing newstalgia into your home. For example, walls can be used as a creative canvas on which to hang psychedelic wallpaper or a gallery of vinyl records or classic film posters. The important thing is not to stick too closely to one specific style, but rather to choose individual pieces that have special meaning to you and are therefore reflective of your past, your personal nostalgia. Upcycling is another great, sustainable way to explore the newstalgia trend: A new lick of paint in a bold colour is all it takes to spruce up an item of old furniture and add a pop of retro style into your modern living space. This mix of old and new makes for rooms that look familiar, yet creative and not in the least outdated. Why not give this fun new trend a go for yourself and bring a fabulous retro vibe into your interior and home! For some guaranteed feel-good brightness and cosiness indoors on those darker, rainier autumn days.
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SASH
A M A R I L LO
R E T R O S TAT E M E N T S T R I P E WA L L PA P E R
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Nothing says 1970s like colourful vector graphics. Pasted big and bold across your wall, they make a tasteful contemporary statement. €39.50 per m 2
A comfy armchair adds a chic nostalgic touch. Pastel colours and organic shapes are the key here to achieving that 1960s/70s look. €369
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T N -2 8 0 B T-A 3 R EC O R D P L AY E R
A N C I L L A TA B L E L A M P
The renaissance of vinyl has made record players popular again. With a classic wood look, this model is equipped with state-of-the-art features. €279
This iconic vintage-style desk lamp also cuts a fine figure on side tables and sideboards. An elegant accessory, on or off. €104.99
R I E S S -A M B I E N T E
TO M TA I LO R
S I X T I E S R E T R O B E D S I D E TA B L E
T V U N I T C O LO R B OX 2 9 0 3
A velvet-covered bedside table? Groovy! It is designs like these that are enjoying a revival with the newstalgia trend. €59.95
A great low unit for your TV, radio or record player, this piece is a definite must in any retro-inspired living room. €299
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IN THE GARDEN
HOME FLORISTRY
A ST EP-BY-ST EP GU IDE A sharp knife, your desired (preferably seasonal) flowers, a work surface and some raffia – that’s all you need to create your very own beautiful bouquet for your home. Follow our simple steps below to get started!
TEXT STÉPHANIE KRISCHEL
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Remove any leaves from the stems, to prevent the flowers from investing unnecessary energy in their foliage, and your bouquet subsequently rotting in the water.
2 3
Sort your cuttings on your work surface – by variety and colour is best.
Hold the first cut flower in your left hand, adding the remaining flowers with your right hand, one at a time: “One flower tilted to the left, one to the right, and repeat” is the mantra for a successful bouquet every time.
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B O U Q U E T S FO R B EG I N N E R S The ‘wild flower bouquet’ is the best of the bunch for an introduction to the art of floristry. Flowers and greenery are alternately added to the left hand (tilted to the left, then to the right, and repeat). No centre, no symmetry, no turning of the bouquet in your hand required. If desired, add some greenery such as thuja, mint or lemon balm to your wild mix of sunflowers, asters, grasses, marigolds etc., for a fabulous finishing touch. Though you will need to turn the bouquet for this. You can also use some shorter greenery here.
IN THE GARDEN
FO R T H E M O R E A DV E N T U R O U S
HELPFUL HYDRANGEAS
Bouquets with a floral centre, such as roses, dahlias or sunflowers, are a little more challenging to make. To build up symmetry in your bouquet, you will need to ensure you alternate between floral and green cuttings, while turning the bouquet continuously in your hand. Inspecting your bouquet from above will give you a clear idea of anything that needs to be changed in order to correct the symmetrical arrangement of the flowers.
Hydrangeas make a novice flower arranger’s work considerably easier. This is because their massive flower heads give your bouquet its overall shape and secure all other cut flowers and foliage firmly in the desired position. Roses, dahlias, camomile or mint can be inserted in amongst your hydrangeas from above the bouquet. A final round of greenery rounds off your bouquet with a Biedermeier look.
KNIFE OR SCISSORS? When working with cut flowers, it’s definitely better to use a sharp knife than scissors. A knife ensures a clean, straight cut surface, unlike (blunt) scissors, which usually squash the stems when cutting them. You can also use a hammer for woody cuttings. Thujas, for example, like to have their woody stems crushed, to enable them to absorb water better in the vase. Long-stemmed flower cuttings like roses and dahlias also like to have as large a cut surface as possible, which is why their stems are cut at an angle. Hydrangea stems can also be cut about two centimetres lengthways. Tulips, on the other hand, prefer a straight cut. For a mixed bouquet, we recommend cutting all stems with secateurs first, and then trimming individual stems using a sharp knife.
TIP Raffia tears less easily if soaked sufficiently in water before use.
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SPOTLIGHT ON...
ME AT & MILK FROM LU X EMBOURG
TEXT STÉPHANIE KRISCHEL
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ore and more consumers are choosing regional products. To prevent them from being misled about origin, two ‘local’ food labelling schemes have been introduced in Luxembourg.
‘PRODUIT DU TERROIR’ The ‘Produit du Terroir – Lëtzebuerger Rëndfleesch’ beef label, featuring a green map of Luxembourg and a cow in the foreground, has been in use since 1994. The label is part of the ‘Produit du Terroir’ programme managed by Luxembourg’s Chamber of Agriculture and is based on the mandatory production conditions set out in the Chamber’s specifications. One of these conditions is the obligation for beef cattle to be born, reared and slaughtered in Luxembourg – this assures a higher level of animal welfare for the cattle. In 1999, the programme was expanded to certify crops from Luxembourg, with the addition of the ‘Produit du terroir – Lëtzebuerger Gromperen’ (potatoes) and ‘Produit du terroir – Lëtzebuerger Wees, Miel & Brout” (wheat, flour and bread) labels. Products bearing these labels must also be produced in compliance with the requirements set out in the relevant specifications and be able to provide proof of this. The keywords here are fertilisation, crop protection and distribution.
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‘ D ’ FA I R M Ë L L EC H ’ A N D ‘ D ’ FA I R F L E E S C H ’ With its distinctive red, white and blue dairy cow and outline of Luxembourg, the ‘D’fair Mëllech’ (Fair Milk) crest on the packaging of fresh milk, puddings, yoghurts etc. is considerably younger. In 2011, 48 dairy farms from across Luxembourg joined forces to found the ‘Fairkoperativ Lëtzebuerg’ co-operative, and with it its own brand ‘D’fair Mëllech’, and later ‘D’fair Fleesch’ (Fair Meat) (2022). In addition to the mandatory origin, environment and animal welfare requirements, Fairkoperativ Lëtzebuerg’s specifications also include ‘dialogue’. For example, every year the farmers in the co-operative commit to twelve hours of work raising awareness with consumers in stores and at trade fairs. The price mark-up for both product groups is distributed fairly between the participating farms and compensates for the additional costs for environmental and animal welfare services.
M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N PRODUITDUTERROIR.LU FA I R M E L L EC H . LU FA I R F L E E S C H . LU
Commitment in every sip Domaines Vinsmoselle is FAIR’N GREEN certified
GREEN KITCHEN
CHILL I T, DON’ T CHUCK I T To freeze or not to freeze, that is the question! Maximising the use of your freezer is an effective way to extend the life of your perishables, leftovers and food scraps.
TEXT STÉPHANIE KRISCHEL
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he numbers are shocking — an estimated 58 million tonnes of food go to waste each year in Europe alone. That works out at a horrifying 131 kg per person. Yet there are 37 million Europeans who cannot afford to eat a proper meal more than three times a week. Let’s turn to the freezer to explore a simple way of reducing food waste. Before deciding whether it’s worth giving up valuable real estate in the ice box, here are some things to consider.
SHOP SMARTER Plan your meals for the week. Check what’s in your fridge before a food shop. Make a shopping list and stick to it.
S TO R E P R O P E R LY The recommended temperature for refrigerators is between 1 and 5°C; for freezers it’s between -18 and -23°C.
K N OW YO U R DAT E S ‘Use by’ dates are for products with shorter shelf lives. Fresh meat and seafood fall into this category. A ‘best before’ date can be interpreted as more of a guide. A sealed product will likely be suitable for consumption a few days past its ‘best before’ date. If it looks alright, smells normal and tastes as expected, it’s fine to eat.
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TIP S FOR FREEZING
NOT F R E EZER-F R IENDLY
• To thaw meat and seafood safely,
• Previously frozen meat or seafood
place in the fridge overnight. • Cool food to room temperature before freezing. • Use an ice cube tray to freeze liquids. • Label everything with contents and date.
that has not been cooked since its first thaw. • Soft cheeses, cream cheese, whole eggs in shell • Cucumbers, courgettes, delicate herbs, lettuces.
GREEN KITCHEN
M E AT & SE A FOOD
F RU I TS & V EGETA BL ES
M E AT
AVO C A D O S A N D B A N A N A S
The key to freezing meat is proper wrapping and storage. Divide raw meat into individual portions, wrap tightly in cling film and into a freezer bag. To preserve its quality, eat the meat within four months. Leftover cooked meats can be frozen as soon as they reach room temperature and can be added to pies, stir-fries, grain bowls and cheesy wraps.
These are notorious for their short ‘perfectly ripe’ window, so freezing them is a viable option. Peel and dice them, then place them in freezer-friendly bags for up to one month. Add them straight to the blender to give your smoothie a creamy finish. Thawed avocados add healthy fats and fibre to hummus. Frozen bananas make wonderful banana ’nice’ cream.
S E A FO O D
BERRIES
To freeze seafood, follow the same method as for meat. If you have leftover cooked fish, freeze it as soon as it reaches room temperature and make fish cakes with it.
Freeze surplus berries on a baking tray for one hour, then transfer to a freezer bag. They make wonderful smoothies, fruit crumbles (thaw slightly first) and compotes.
BONES
V EG E TA B L E S C R A P S
Collect chicken or beef bones in a freezer bag. When it’s full, add the contents to a large pot, add frozen veggie scraps, cover with water and simmer for a few hours.
Save the scraps of your chopped veggies to make a stock for soups. Collect the tops and tails of onions, garlic, carrots, herbs, etc. in a freezer bag. When the bag is full, add the contents to a large pot, cover with water, then add bay leaves, peppercorns and sea salt. Simmer for 2-3 hours. Strain, cool and use, or freeze until needed.
EG GS & DA I RY EG G S Leftover egg whites freeze well. They thaw quickly and are ideal for a pavlova or added to scrambled eggs.
LEAFY GREENS You can freeze surplus spinach or kale raw; there’s no need to blanch it first. Add the leaves to a freezer bag and press out the air. Add it straight to the pan for omelettes or other warm dishes. For a green smoothie, add a handful to the blender.
TO M ATO E S MILK AND CREAM These can be frozen in their original cartons, as long as there is enough room for the liquid to expand. Thaw and shake well before using.
Fresh tomatoes don’t freeze well, but if cooked, puréed and frozen they are absolute meal-savers! Freeze in portions and add directly to pasta sauces, soups or ratatouilles.
CHEESE
MUSHROOMS
Hard cheeses will end up with a grainy texture if frozen; they fare much better if they are grated first. Sprinkle cheese directly over a shepherd’s pie or dauphinoise potatoes before baking. Use it (lightly thawed) in quesadillas or whipped up in a fluffy cheese soufflé.
Roast or sauté mushrooms, cool and freeze. They’re superb in omelettes, soups and creamy mushroom sauces.
BE A NS & PU L SES
R I C E , Q U I N OA A N D C O U S C O U S
BEANS, LENTILS AND CHICKPEAS
BAKED GOODS
Spread out leftover beans or pulses on a baking sheet, flash-freeze for an hour and then transfer to a plastic bag. Use them to bulk up salads, tacos and soups.
Breads, croissants and cakes (unfrosted) freeze very well. Collect leftover bits of stale bread in a freezer bag to make bread pudding or breadcrumbs.
GR A I NS Freezing cooked leftover grains is a practical shortcut. Cool cooked grains completely, then transfer to a plastic freezer bag. Stir-fry, sauté or steam to reheat.
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IN NUMBERS
K ACHEN MAGA ZINE
10 Y E A R S IN N UM BER S TEXT CHAREL HEINEN
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0 years, 6,396 pages and 2,084 unique recipes – there are just a few of the impressive figures that we’ve accumulated since KACHEN magazine was founded in 2014. Even we’re amazed at how much we’ve achieved in this time. Our team has grown steadily: What started as a small group has blossomed into a well-established editorial team of eight permanent members, supported by numerous freelancers and proofreaders. The magazine itself has evolved, too – its layout has been continuously refined over the years and looks better today than ever! Despite all these changes, we’ve stayed true to our recipe for success: great stories, fascinating insights into the worlds of gastronomy, production, health and the arts, along with plenty of inspiration for your home kitchen. With a host of national and international professional chefs by our side and a team that’s passionate about what we do, we continue to celebrate food, taste and all the diversity that comes with it. And what about the years to come? We’ll we’ve got plenty more in store – more recipes, more stories, and definitely more flavour. We’re staying the course, because there’s still so much more to explore and share. So, stay tuned; it’s going to be exciting!
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IN NUMBERS
24 12,065.90 people on average are involved in producing each magazine, including journalists, photographers, graphic designers, proofreaders and translators.
2,084 unique recipes have been published in KACHEN over the last ten years.
414 weekly newsletters have made their way into our subscribers’ digital inboxes so far.
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times we’ve accidentally set off the fire alarm in our office kitchen. What can we say – where there’s creativity, there’s bound to be a little smoke!
km is the distance one KACHEN issue travels every three months to reach our most far-flung subscriber in Hawaii. A warm “Aloha!” to the other side of the globe!
6,396 pages comprise all the issues of KACHEN published to date – plenty of material for a long train journey...
250 different wines have been tasted in the past ten years – purely for research purposes, of course.
4
litres of coffee per person are consumed every week at our office in Junglinster, with this number often spiking as we approach our publication deadlines.
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professional chefs from Luxembourg and around the globe have contributed a recipe to KACHEN.
11 European countries have already received our magazine through paying subscriptions. Additionally, several copies have been shipped to 20 of the 50 U.S. states. No wonder that KACHEN magazine has seen more of the world than most of us, and it’s only 10 years old!
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H E A LT H
I N T E R V I E W W I T H E X P E R T P R O F. D R . E L I S A B E T H L E T E L L I E R
U N DER STA N DING & COM BAT ING COLOR ECTA L C A NCER We recently had the opportunity to speak with Professor Elisabeth Letellier, a professor at the Faculty of Science, Technology and Medicine at the University of Luxembourg, where she heads up the Molecular Disease Mechanisms research group. Her research focuses on understanding colorectal cancer and the interactions between the tumour and its microbial and cellular environment. Despite the prevalence of colorectal cancer, treatment options are often limited to conventional therapies, which are only effective to a limited extent in advanced stages. Newer, targeted therapies have so far proven less effective in the treatment of colorectal cancer. Professor Letellier’s work is helping to develop novel approaches to the diagnosis and treatment of this serious disease.
TEXT CHAREL HEINEN
What is colorectal cancer, and why is awareness so important? Colorectal cancer develops in the colon or rectum as a result of mutations in the genetic material of the cells, which happens over a period of ten to fifteen years. Prevention and early detection are crucial, as in nine out of ten cases, colorectal cancer patients can be cured if the cancer is diagnosed early enough. How common is colorectal cancer, and which groups of people are at particular risk? Every year, around 1.9 million people are diagnosed with colorectal cancer worldwide and 950,000 people die from it. Colorectal cancer is more common in men, but tends to be more aggressive in women in later stages. Whereas in the past it mainly affected older people, today the incidence rate is also rising dramatically in the under 55s. This is forcing us to act faster, i.e. to develop a better prevention strategy and a better understanding of the disease. How does diet affect the risk of developing colorectal cancer? We currently can’t say for sure how much diet impacts the risk of developing colorectal cancer. What we do know, however, is that colorectal cancer patients have a different gut microbiome to healthy people. There are also studies that show that the gut microbiome can affect tumour development, both negatively and positively.
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Are there certain diets or dietary habits that have been proven to prevent the development of colorectal cancer? There are no clear recommendations for specific diets. I’d personally advise against following any extreme diet for a longer period of time anyhow, as they usually have numerous side effects. It’s important to have a diverse gut microbiome, which can be built up by eating a varied and balanced diet. We know that the more diverse a microbiome is, the better it can defend itself against cancer cells and infections. Foods like red meat, processed meat products and meat grilled over an open flame should be consumed in moderation, as they contain nitrogen oxides, which can be carcinogenic.
H E A LT H
“ I T ’ S I M P O R TA N T T O H AV E A D I V E R S E G U T MICROBIOME, WHICH C A N B E B U I LT U P B Y E AT I N G A V A R I E D A N D B A L A N C E D D I E T.” P R O F. D R . E L I S A B E T H L E T E L L I E R
As part of your research, you investigated the effects of a high-fat or keto diet on the intestinal flora. What can you tell us about your findings? Our research has shown that the anti-tumour effect of a keto diet is mediated by the microbiome. We’re now looking specifically for the metabolic products of the microbiome that drive this effect, to help us develop novel, microbiome-based therapies for cancer patients. What role do factors such as body weight and physical activity play in the development of colorectal cancer? Obesity is a big risk factor for colorectal cancer and many other types of cancer. There is a special sub-group of colorectal cancer cases that are specifically caused by obesity. With regard to physical activity, studies show that people who are physically active are less likely to develop colorectal cancer. However, this doesn’t necessarily mean that there’s a direct correlation. People with a more active lifestyle usually also pay more attention to their health and diet, which causes a bias effect in the studies that cannot be ignored. I don’t want to rule out the possibility that sport can influence the microbiome, but so far no clear causality has been established. What are you currently researching, and what goals do you have for the future? To date, our focus has been primarily on understanding the role of the microbiome. We’re now investigating how we can specifically influence the microbiome to fight
cancer cells, through diet, for example. We’re also looking for specific metabolites produced by the gut microbiome that can improve the effect of certain drugs and therapies. In the long term, this could be an easier form of treatment than following a specific diet. Another important goal is to understand how certain drugs are metabolised by the bacteria in the microbiome. We hope that this will help us understand why some patients respond better to some drugs and therapies than others. Where can our readers find more information on colorectal cancer screening and the latest developments in research? Further information can be found on the University of Luxembourg’s website. The Fondation Cancer website also provides comprehensive information on colorectal cancer and prevention. Finally, I’d like to emphasise that nine out of ten cases of colorectal cancer are curable if detected early. Prevention is therefore crucial! If you want to prevent colorectal cancer through your diet, you should make sure you eat a balanced diet that promotes a diverse gut microbiome. Strict diets, such as the keto diet, are not helpful over long periods of time and have too many side effects. I therefore don’t recommend these diets for prevention, although studies have shown that they can have positive effects during cancer treatment. Ongoing clinical studies on different types of cancer will help to develop nutritional advice. B I T . LY/ L C S B 2
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WELLBEING
IMMUNITY BOOSTING
I T ’S WORT H A SHOT Taking care of yourself is key as the colder months roll in. A healthy lifestyle with regular exercise, a balanced diet and some immunity boosting drinks up your (down-jacket) sleeve can help to keep you in tip-top shape. If you can’t quite stomach a cold 8-ounce smoothie in the morning when the temperatures are hovering above freezing, then these small, but mighty, shots might be just the thing for you!
TEXT KIRSTY VON BOCH
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mmunity shots are potent blends of juiced fruits, vegetables and spices that deliver a high concentration of nutrients in a small dose. These concoctions — which commonly include ginger, turmeric and citrus fruits — possess antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that support the body when it is dealing with low immunity or high stress. You have likely seen the rainbow of immunity shots available in the supermarkets in miniature, overpriced plastic bottles. It’s very simple, more cost-effective and better for the environment to make them at home! Ideally, these shots should be made in a juicer, but a high-powered blender will also work. You will just need to pass the juice through a sieve to filter out the pulp. As with most juices, there is no rule book when it comes to the ingredients. We encourage you to experiment with what you have on hand. This recipe is a good staple and would be lovely with pineapple (a great way to use the core), beetroot or cinnamon. If you’re feeling particularly brave, try adding a clove or two of garlic for a super-powerful (and potent!) immunity boost.
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CITRUS & SPICE SHOTS SERVES 6
20 MINUTES
• 1 orange, peeled, a bit of pith is fine • 3 lemons, leave the peel on if organic • 3 cm fresh ginger, peeled • 2 cm fresh turmeric, peeled • ¼ tsp black pepper • A pinch of cayenne pepper • Honey to taste, if desired 1 Juice the orange, lemons, ginger and turmeric.
For the blender method, add all the ingredients (except for the honey) to a high-speed blender. 2 Pass through a sieve, add the black pepper and cayenne to the juice if you haven’t already. 3 Pour the juice into a glass jar or small bottles. Refrigerate. 4 Enjoy with honey, if desired.
TIP
A freshly pressed juice is best consumed within 24 hours, as its nutritional value will start to decline after that. To make this in large batches, freeze the juice in ice cube trays and thaw 1-2 cubes at room temperature, as needed. Alternatively, add hot water for a soothing, warming drink.
WELLBEING
OX YMEL
A N AGE- OLD ELI X IR W I T H MODER N BEN EFI TS This ancient medicinal tonic was prescribed by the likes of Hippocrates as a treatment for respiratory illness and to promote overall wellbeing. He must have been on to something as it’s making a comeback, even finding its way into the kitchen!
TEXT KIRSTY VON BOCH
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xymel, a syrupy blend of vinegar and honey (its name derives from the Greek ‘oxi’ meaning acidic, and ‘meli’ meaning honey), can be traced all the way back to ancient Greece. It has popped up here and there around the globe throughout the centuries, and now oxymel is enjoying a revival — not just for its healing properties, but also as an excellent cooking ingredient.
H E A LT H B E N E F I T S Vinegar and honey, two basic household ingredients, are known for their individual health-boosting qualities. However, when you blend them together, they gain superpowers!
• Oxymel can soothe a sore throat and act as an expectorant for stubborn coughs.
• It can help to protect the body from oxidative stress and free-radical damage.
• Oxymel promotes a healthy gut thanks
to the digestive qualities of vinegar and the prebiotics found in honey. • Oxymel supports the body’s healthy bacteria and reduces inflammation. The base recipe for oxymel is nothing more than a combination of equal parts honey and vinegar. You can personalise and boost the healing properties of your elixir with herbs or get creative with other add-ins such as dried berries and herbal teas.
OX YMEL 1 GLASS JAR
4-6 WEEKS
• 250 ml apple cider vinegar (organic, raw and unfiltered) • 250 ml raw honey (best from a local apiary) • Optional: add up to ¼ cup of ginger slices, fresh thyme, sage, dried elderberries or chamomile
• A large glass jar with a tight-fitting lid 1 Add the dried herbs or flavourings to the jar,
if you’re using them. 2 Add the vinegar and honey, stir to combine.
Close the lid tightly. 3 Leave to stand at room temperature, away from direct
sunlight, for 4-6 weeks. Shake the jar every few days. 4 After 4-6 weeks have passed, and if you used
flavourings, pass the contents through a sieve squeezing out the excess liquid. Transfer to a clean jar. Refrigerate and use within 12 months.
S O M E D E L I C I O U S WAYS TO E N J OY OX YM E L
• Add 2-3 teaspoons to a glass of water for a refreshing and immune-boosting drink.
• Add a splash to your salad dressing. • Add a couple of tablespoons to a fish or vegetable marinade. • Add a dash to your favourite cocktail. It goes particularly well with gin-based drinks!
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F O O D & T R AV E L D I A R I E S
PISCO, PA PA S & CEV ICHE First up, can I just say that Peru is one of my all-time favourite destinations, and the mere mention of it makes me long to be there. Anyone who has ever visited Peru has nothing but gushing praise for this iconic Andean country on the west coast of South America. Anyone who hasn’t been yet is keen to go, and anyone who has been is keen to go back!
T E X T LY D I A M U T S C H
S
o, what is it about Peru that attracts so many people? Well, there’s Machu Picchu, of course – the legendary 15th-century Inca city, at an altitude of over 3,000 metres, deemed one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, and rightly so. And then there’s the country’s breathtaking natural landscapes, friendly, welcoming natives and heavenly gourmet delights. Start your Peru experience in Lima, the capital city founded in 1535 by infamous Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro as the ‘Ciudad de los Reyes’ (City of Kings). An often underrated destination, despite its historic city centre, impressive colonial architecture and UNESCO World Heritage status. Even if Lima cannot compete with Cusco or Arequipa on beauty, what at first glance appears to be a rather unremarkable megacity is in fact on closer inspection an incredibly vibrant capital city well worth a visit, with a cultural and culinary offering up there on a par with any other international city.
P E R U V I A N P OTATO E S A R E TO P S ! A trip to the Mercado Central or Surquillo market in Lima is a real culinary voyage of discovery. You’ll very quickly come to realise that Peruvians love to cook, and that Peruvian cuisine is very different to how you imagine typical Latin American cuisine. With the wide range of fresh seafood, fruit, vegetables, spices and meat on offer, you’ll also see why Lima is considered the gastronomic capital of South America. Did you know that there are over 3,500 types of potato in Peru? The variety of colours ranges from light pink and dark yellow to bright purple and deep blue. As a key staple that comes in a vast variety of flavours and is easy to grow – thriving at even an altitude of over 4,000 metres – the potato (affectionately called ‘papas’ by the Peruvians) is an integral ingredient in Peruvian kitchens.
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F O O D & T R AV E L D I A R I E S
First cultivated by the Incas in South America 1,800 years ago, the potato was introduced to Europe by the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century. In the centuries that followed, it continued to spread across continental Europe, including to Luxembourg. Today, the potato is one of the most important foods in the world.
P E R U V I A N H AU T E C U I S I N E O N T H E I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E S TAU R A N T S C E N E Although Lima is a hub of creative cuisine, Peru’s trendy cuisine is by no means limited to its capital. Rather, it seems to be a point of honour throughout the country to prove that Peruvian cuisine really is something to write home about. A combination of multicultural influences and Peruvian tradition has cooked up a creative fusion cuisine that is unparalleled not only in South America. Gastón Acurio, probably Peru’s best-known chef, who now runs over forty restaurants worldwide,
has elevated his native country’s cuisine to star level and made it world-famous. Demand for Peruvian specialities is huge, and has long since spread beyond Peru’s borders. Everyone wants a taste of the nation’s delicious street food dishes, aromatic curries (such as ‘ají de gallina’, a spicy, creamy chicken stew) and spicy soups (like ‘chupe de camarones’, a creamy prawn soup with potatoes, cream, onions and chilli). The Peruvian national dish ‘ceviche’ (raw fish marinated in citrus juice with red onions, sweet potato, chilli, yellow ají, corn and coriander) is undoubtedly the country’s most popular culinary export... delicioso!
JA PA N E S E- P E R U V I A N F U S I O N Both Acurio and his equally famous colleague Mitsuharu Tsumura have revolutionised their country’s cuisine and impressed even the most discerning of gourmets with their blend of Peruvian and Japanese cooking techniques.
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F O O D & T R AV E L D I A R I E S
A C O M B I N AT I O N O F M U LT I C U LT U R A L I N F L U E N C E S AND PERUVIAN TRADITION H A S C O O K E D U P A C R E AT I V E F U S I O N C U I S I N E T H AT I S U N P A R A L L E L E D N O T O N LY IN SOUTH AMERICA .
Be sure to book a table at chef ‘Micha’ Tsumura’s restaurant Maido when in Lima! This eatery run by a descendant of Japanese immigrants regularly features among the top 50 best restaurants in the world. The tasting menu in this stronghold of Peruvian-Nikkei cuisine is truly exceptional, and the atmosphere relaxed and cosy, despite the Michelin-starred cuisine. Savour Acurio’s world-class cuisine at his seafood restaurant La Mar in the popular Miraflores district of the capital or at Relais & Châteaux restaurant Astrid y Gastón in the trendy San Isidro district. In the beautiful colonial city of Cusco, the gateway to Machu Picchu, you can also enjoy Acurio’s dishes in pretty restaurant Chicha in the heart of the old town. A must-visit Acurio foodie hotspot of the same name can also be found close to the magnificent Cathedral Basilica in the white city of Arequipa (a city surrounded by three volcanoes).
You’ll find the recipes for Pisco Sour and ceviche with prawns in KACHEN issue no. 39.
T H E N AT I O N ’ S FAVO U R I T E C O C K TA I L : PISCO SOUR I’ve got a confession to make: Ever since my trip to Peru, I’ve had a new vice in my life: Pisco Sour. This South American cocktail classic (Peruvians and Chileans have been arguing about its origin for decades) is made of pisco schnapps, lime juice, sugar syrup, frothed egg white and a few dashes of angostura and goes well with (almost) any dish. And it tastes divine. But beware: Pisco Sour may taste like lemonade, but please remember that it is a high-proof cocktail to be enjoyed in moderation! So, as you may have gathered, Peru is a real ‘coup de cœur’, and has certainly won a very special place in my heart. A wonderful country that should definitely be at the top of your bucket list! ¡Buen viaje!
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T YP ICA L DISHE S F R O M T HE R EG IO N • Adventurous gourmets should try the local speciality ‘cuy chactado’, a traditional Peruvian meat dish of guinea pig wrapped in corn leaves, ser ved with beans, potatoes and salsa criolla. A real delicacy, if you can get past the idea of eating a pet.
• Why not ser ve your guests the delicious, sophisticated ‘causa limeña’ as a starter? This typical Peruvian dish, made from mashed yellow potatoes, lily leeks (yellow garlic), lime juice, mayonnaise, boiled egg and black olives, with an avocado, tuna or chicken ‘stuffing’, is sure to go down a treat!
NE W
ROTTERDAM luxembourg
rotterdam return flight
149€
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WHERE TRADITION MEETS INNOVATION
G R E AT E R R EG I O N
A GOU R M ET BR E A K IN DU R BU Y The Belgian city of Durbuy, which dates back to the 14th century, is proud of its heritage and its status as the ‘smallest city in the world’ and attracts visitors from Belgium and beyond every weekend. At just 1 hour 40 minutes from Luxembourg City, Durbuy is the perfect destination for a mini-break.
TEXT MARIE TISSIER PHOTOS SANGLIER DES ARDENNES
“T
radition and gastronomy, pleasure and discovery; in short: joie de vivre. Isn’t it a combination of these things that makes life so enjoyable?” These are the words with which Durbuy mayor Philippe Bontemps opens the editorial in the latest issue of DurbuyMag. With the first edition of food festival Festifood coming up at the beginning of July 2024, the mayor was keen to highlight the incredible range of culinary delights on offer in the city. And with good reason: Durbuy may have just 350 inhabitants, but this historic little city boasts some 15 restaurants, several delicatessens and a butcher’s shop.
WO U T B R U : A H I G H PROFILE , PROLIFIC CHEF Narrow cobbled streets and beautiful blooms, pretty grey stone buildings, a castle, city walls and a river running through the centre… Durbuy is the perfect place for a relaxing weekend retreat. Strolling through the little alleyways, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to
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Brittany, or even a quaint village in the English countryside. There are also culinary treats aplenty to be discovered during your stay in Durbuy. The most influential chef in the city is undoubtedly Wout Bru, who previously worked as a two-star chef in a restaurant in the south of France. Together with well-known Belgian businessman Marc Coucke, Wout set up shop here in 2017, and has been continuously expanding his culinary offering ever since, which he describes as “high-quality and for all budgets”. There’s Le Grand Verre, a Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant in the old town, high-end brasserie La Bru’sserie, Wagyu, specialising in grilled dishes, Brasserie des Ardennes, serving regional dishes, Italian restaurant Limoni e tartufi, the golf club and glamping site brasseries… If that weren’t enough, Wout Bru has even more projects in the pipeline: “In autumn, we’re opening a family restaurant with an all-you-can-eat buffet. I’d
© MAISON CAERDINAEL
G R E AT E R R EG I O N
also like to open another fine dining restaurant in the future, but would need to hire a young chef to help me.”
A FA M I LY A F FA I R While the Coucke-Bru empire is still in its infancy, the Caerdinael family are a real Durbuy dynasty. “Our great-grandparents came to Durbuy from Antwerp eighty years ago. They founded hotels like Le Sanglier des Ardennes and Jean de Bohème, which were bought and remodelled by Marc Coucke,” explains Louise, one of the great-granddaughters. Together with her two sisters, Louise manages hotel and restaurant Victoria, hotel and concept store Lea, the rooms in bar-restaurant Le 7 by Juliette and Chocolaterie Darcis. “We also have two gîtes, with two more opening in autumn,” she adds. In addition to these big names in Durbuy, a whole host of other excellent restaurants invite you to indulgent interludes, including Le Clos des Récollets (Michelin Bib Gourmand), Durbuy Ô and La Table de Manon (one star). Durbuy also hosts an impressive programme of festivals. This year’s beer, bread and cheese festival is scheduled to be held on the weekend of 5 and 6 October, and the magical Christmas market from the end of November is definitely worth a visit to this small foodie city in close proximity to Luxembourg.
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T H I N K V EG E TA B L E S ! T H I N K F R U I T ! ®
In Amsterdam’s Zuidas business district, chef Luc Kusters is busy honing a seductive vision of tomorrow’s cuisine. His restaurant Bolenius provides him with a space in which to fuse precious traditions with exciting new concepts, all to delicious effect. This gem of Dutch cuisine offers a delectable exploration of top-flight Dutch gastronomy in all its new dimensions.
B O L E N I U S - R E S TAU R A N T. N L
RECIPE LUC KUSTERS PHOTOS WIM DEMESSEMAEKERS
ROAS TED & CANDIED CELERIAC SKE WER SERVES 4
45 MINUTES
For the celeriac skewer • 1 large celeriac
The celeriac skewer
For the broth • 1 celeriac (plus trimmings)
3 Weigh the total weight of the slices (you need 65 g per person).
Per 200 g celeriac juice • 5 drops of green Tabasco • 2 g salt • Xanthan gum • 15 g unripe grape juice (verjuice)
1 Clean the celeriac and cut into long 4 x 4 cm cubes. 2 Process into thin slices 2 mm thick using a mandoline or slicer.
Add 2 % salt (ca. 5 g) and mix well so that the salt is well distributed. 4 Vacuum-seal and brine overnight. 5 Fold the celeriac slices in half, stack and thread onto a skewer (using 65 g per person). The broth 1 Make juice from all the remaining celeriac using a juicer.
For the celery leaf oil • 2 small bunches of celery leaves • 500 g sunflower oil
2 Bring to a boil and pass through a fine cloth or coffee filter.
For the celery angel hair • 2 celery stalks
The celery leaf oil
For the garnish • Young yellowish-green leaves from the middle of the bunch of celery
3 Strain the oil through a cloth or coffee filter.
3 Season to taste with the remaining ingredients. 4 Thicken sightly with the xanthan gum.
1 Put all the ingredients in a blender and mix at full speed. 2 Heat to 80°C.
The celery angel hair 1 Peel the length of the celery using a peeler. 2 Thinly slice and place in iced water for half an hour until
it starts to curl. To garnish 1 Candy the celeriac in oil at 120°C for 5 minutes. 2 Lightly roast the candied celeriac skewer over a gas burner. 3 Mix 3 parts broth with 1 part celery leaf oil. 4 Drain the angel hair and drizzle with the celery leaf oil. 5 Place the celeriac in the centre of the plate. Place a nest of angel
hair on top and garnish with the young yellowish celery leaves. Pour the broth around it at the table.
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RECIPE DIRECTORY
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PA S C H T É I T –
W I L D T U R B OT W I T H
C AU L I F LOW ER W I T H
P OAC H ED C H I C K EN
V EN I S O N C A R PAC C I O
B O U C H ÉE À L A R E I N E
C AV I A R B U T T ER
B ÉC H A M EL S AU C E
B R E A S T W I T H YO G H U R T
L I K E A G R AV L A X
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36
26
46
‘ S TO F F I ’ W I T H
F U S I L LO N I -
WHITE TUNA
L I N G U I N E FA N I
WA S A B I P U R ÉE W I T H L A M B
ONIONS & CHIVES
LU M AC H I N E D I M A R E
TATA K I
ALL A MARINARA
FILLET & L ANGOUSTINE
59
60
61
62
64
C A R R OT S O U P
CHICKPEA &
TO M ATO & W H I T E
V EG G I E
V EG E TA B L E C U R RY
WITH ALMONDS
V EG E TA B L E S A L A D
BEAN SOUP
S N AC K S
O M EL E T T E S
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67
68
70
71
R OA S T B EEF &
C H I C K EN W I T H
VIETNAMESE
B U T T ER N U T H U M M U S
H A L LO U M I &
WAT ER C R E S S S A L A D
COURGET TE
P R AW N S A L A D
W I T H F E TA
V EG G I E S K E W ER S
72
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38
24
73
74
83
84
C R I S P Y B R U S S EL S
PIZZ A WITH
LEMON
G O U DA
G R I L L ED H A L LO U M I
SPROUTS
S W EE T P OTATO
MOUSSE
CROQUET TES
WITH LEMON
RECIPE DIRECTORY
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86
88
91
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ONION CONFIT
PA R M E S A N
B O U R B O N VA N I L L A
GNOCCHI WITH
L EN T I L &
& F E TA TA R T L E T
SHORTBREAD
M AC A R O O N S
P U M P K I N S AU C E
PUMPKIN STEW
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99
93
94
95
R ED C A B B AG E &
B EE T R O OT
Q U I N OA & R ED
PUMPKIN
FONDUE
APPLE SOUP
TA R T
C A B B AG E S A L A D
V ELO U T É
S AVOYA R D E
100
105
106
107
108
M O EL L E U X
C EL ERY
C EL ERY &
C EL ERY & C R E A M
C EL ERY S A L A D
AU C H O C O L AT
S H OT
APPLE SOUP
C H EE S E D I P
W I T H B EE T R O OT
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113
114
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C EL ERY
M I R A B EL L E P LU M
M I R A B EL L E P LU M
M I R A B EL L E P LU M
M I R A B EL L E P LU M
F R I T T ER S
M U S TA R D
CHUTNEY
CL AFOUTIS
F R A N G I PA N E TA R T
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C O F F EE &
JA PA N E S E
OLD CUBAN
H A Z EL N U T C A K E
M I S O R A M EN
RHABARBARA
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R OA S T ED & C A N D I ED C EL ER I AC S K E W ER
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