ISSUE 17 Nov 2020 to April 2021

& TRAVEL ISSUE 17 • NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

LEISURE Zambia & Zimbabwe

Mosi-oa-Tunya THE SMOKE THAT STILL THUNDERS

SIMALAHA Horse safaris in Zambia

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FISHING THE ZAMBEZI

Where to catch the action in Zimbabwe

20 REASONS To visit Victoria Falls town

NATURE HEALS

Restore your sanity and self on safari

Contents ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

2 A Word from the MD Mosi-oa-Tunya—The Smoke 4 that still Thunders

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imalaha Horse Safaris S in Zambia

10 Fuchs Elephant Charge 2020— 4x4 Off-Road Challenge Raises ZMW2.9M for Conservation

13 Interview with Nick Aslin 14

ature Heals—Restore Your N Sanity and Self on Safari

16 My Zambia

18 Takwela Camp—at

40 Wine Corner—Wines of

20 The Road Les Travels—Eastern

42 My Bulawayo—Sherine Anne

24 Chilli Farming 26 A Unique Phenomenon—

44 Elephant Encounter 46 Domestic Tourism 48 Fishing the Zambezi—Where to

Nature’s Pace

and Northern Zambia: Adventures You Miss by Flying

Kasanka National Park’s Annual Bat Migration

32 The River Flows On 34 Cuisine Corner—Everything

Different, Everything Special

36 Highlights from Photo Safaris with Edward Selfe

Publisher Safari Magazine Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala kwisanoent@gmail.com Sub-Editor Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson nicky.dj@sky.com ON THE COVER The Victoria Falls Photo credit: Lesanne Photography (www.lesannephotography.com) Contributors Gail Kleinschmidt, Chundukwa River Lodge, Leslie Nevison, Mama Tembo Tours Zambia, Natasha Parker, Tongabezi Lodge, Bundu Adventure, Irene Amiet, Irene Amiet Photography, Jessica White, Wild Horizons, Flo Coughlan, Swahili Coast Foodi Blog, Edward Selfe, Wild Zambezi,

South Africa

Taylor’s Guide to the City

Catch the Action in Zimbabwe

20 Reasons to Visit Victoria 51 Falls Town

56 Ingwe Pan—Mana Pools National Park

58 Cool at the Pool

Layout & Art Director Stacey Storbeck Nel indiodesign@mweb.co.za

Subscriptions kwisanoent@gmail.com +260 977 308 711

Consultant Jo Pope popejo@gmail.com

Printers New Horizon Printing Press Plot # LUS/9815/H Kafue Road, Lusaka, Zambia

Website www.zambiatravelmagazine.com Fins Fishing Safaris, Tiger Safaris, Tafika Fishing Safaris, Spurwing Island, Homer, Innocent Qaphela Mukute, Ilala Lodge, Emma Wood, Christelle Mallants, Richard Peel, Katie Seidel, Angela Stavrou, Africa Albida Tourism, Dusty Roads, The Victoria Falls Hotel, Safari Magazine, Banff Lodge, The Orange Elephant Shop, National Railway Museum, Amalinda Safari Collection, Jennifer Coppinger, Remote Africa Safaris, Patrick Bentley, Scott Ramsay, Matetsi Victoria Falls, Brooke Berlin, Johann Vanzyl, Zambian Ground

Handlers, Emma Robinson, Astrid Steinbrecher-Raitmayr, Conservation South Luangwa, Anja Hanke, Sarah Davies, Elephant Charge, Makhosi Ncube Submissions We welcome editorial and photographic submissions to the magazine. Accompanying images should be sent in high-res jpg and minimum 3MB in size. Please send a synopsis of the proposed article to kwisanoent@gmail.com for consideration.

Copyright Copyright © All rights for material appearing in this magazine belong to Safari Magazine and/or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or without due acknowledgement.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

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 A WORD FROM THE MD

elcome to Issue 17 of Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe magazine.

The year 2020 has been the most difficult year the world over due to the ravaging effects of Covid-19 and the tourism sector has been one of the hardest hit by this pandemic. As the world slowly and cautiously begins to open, we are very relieved that we can publish this Issue 17 after suspending business for five months.

Zambia has been officially endorsed as a ‘safe travel’ destination by the World Travel & Tourism Council. Our country is open and welcoming international tourists without any country restrictions, and entry screening is conducted at all airports. All travellers coming into the country are required to provide a negative SARS-CoV-2 PCR test result which should have been conducted within the previous 14 days. Tourists coming into the country without evidence of a negative SARS-CoV-2 PCR test will not be allowed entry.

In this edition we focus on the Victoria Falls (p4), one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. It’s the world’s largest body of falling water and the mist can be seen for 30 miles around; staggeringly, the water drops a massive 354 feet. On (p51) we look at 20 reasons to visit Victoria Falls town. Perhaps you love horses and are a keen rider—if so, do have a look at Simalaha Horse Safaris (p8).

Elsewhere, we interview Nick Aslin from Zambian Ground Handlers (p13), and if you enjoy throwing a line in you can find out the best places to fish on the great Zambezi River in Zimbabwe (p48).

Also, we would like to welcome Stacey Storbeck Nel to our team as our new layout and art director. I hope you will enjoy the magazine’s new look.

And finally, we would like to pay tribute to the tireless and devoted work of all the rangers and workers for wildlife and conservation who continue to protect our precious inheritance throughout these difficult times. We salute their devotion to all the creatures they, and we, love.

We believe you will enjoy reading this publication and that hopefully it will help you plan your next visit to Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Happy Reading!

BIOGRAPHY: STACEY STORBECK NEL

Stacey is an award-winning designer with over 20 years’ experience in both advertising and publishing. Her passion for design is evident in her high-quality and diverse portfolio which includes numerous awards for magazine design such as Best Magazine, Best New Title and Cover of the Year. She has also exercised her creative talent designing brochures, logos, annual reports and corporate and event stationery, as well as spearheading business marketing projects and related presentations. She launched her website Indio Design in 2006 and it reflects her hard work, a striving for perfection, reliability, excellent service and commitment to her chosen profession; she is always up to date on the latest design trends. She has two children: a daughter of twelve and a son of eight who, she says, both challenge and inspire her. Away from work she enjoys an outdoor life, also shared with five rescue dogs, in the beautiful Riebeek Valley in the Western Cape, South Africa.

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TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

 ZAMBIA | THE VICTORIA FALLS

Mosi-oa-Tunya THE SMOKE THAT STILL THUNDERS

Where there is smoke there is fire…that’s how the saying goes, I believe. This usually means that you can trace every rumour to some bright spark of truth somewhere.

WRITER: NATASHA PARKER PHOTOGRAPHY: TONGABEZI LODGE, BUNDU ADVENTURE

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TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

THE VICTORIA FALLS | ZAMBIA 

here is a rumour going around that our glorious Victoria Falls is in her final years; that she is a fading monarch who still holds our hearts but won’t be ruling us for much longer. Perhaps you’ve even seen a montage of photos showing bare, cracked basalt rock that positively cries out for water; or watched as acclaimed international news presenters talk about climate change and its devastating effect on the waterfall that has captured so many hearts from around the globe. And climate change is a real and urgent issue. Please take it seriously.

However, in Livingstone the word ‘smoke’ has a whole other meaning. In Livingstone, where there is ‘smoke’, there is a roaring waterfall. ‘The Smoke that Thunders’ is a direct translation of Musi oa Thunya, nowadays written as Mosi-oa-Tunya, one of the most

popular local Sotho names for the Natural Wonder of the World also known as Victoria Falls. The ‘smoke’ is the roaring spray that shoots back out of the Batoka Gorge and miles into the air above the waterfall at high water. And the smoke is showing its face this year already. The Zambezi River level is rapidly rising again, rising beyond recent records even, and with it the frustration of the local Livingstone residents is rising too. This ‘fake news’ is damaging to the local tourist economy, depriving lovely potential travellers of a series of magical experiences here.

So let me tell you why you shouldn’t worry about the levels of Victoria Falls.

Victoria Falls is immense, but it’s also only a tiny footstep in the path of the mighty Zambezi River. The Zambezi River basin covers 1.4 million square kilometres of Africa. The Falls may be the most attention-seeking part of this river, but the Zambezi itself stretches into flood plains and floods an entire savannah.

The river forms freshwater swamps and when it reaches the ocean the delta fronts 230 kilometres of coastline. This is not a small river.

We also have very detailed knowledge about Zambezi water levels. They have been measured daily at 13 stations along the hydrometric network of the Kariba reservoir since 1987. And to date, the lowest flow measurement was not recorded in 2019, but in the 1995/96 season. River levels have actually been lower than they were in 2019 during six separate periods dating from 1914.

Every single year Victoria Falls ebbs and flows, shrinking towards Zimbabwe in the dry season and overflowing her banks in the high season. The greatest volume of water falling over the lip of Victoria Falls is always between April and May and the lowest volume is always in October and November. This is not news.

There are other things to worry about, sadly. As mentioned, climate change is a real and serious issue, and indeed it is affecting Zambia. In September 2019 Zambia’s president, Edgar Lungu, mentioned climate change 44 times in his annual address to parliament. In fact,

TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

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 ZAMBIA | THE VICTORIA FALLS

climate change may affect Africa more than any other continent in the decades to come.

Temperatures in parts of Southern Africa are predicted to rise by twice the global average as a result of climate change, and a record number of people in Southern Africa are currently facing severe food insecurity. The IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) released predictions of prolonged droughts combined with more significant precipitation and destructive floods.

However, the people of the Zambezi River areas are actively addressing climate change with their usual optimism and energy.

Wind and solar power alternatives are becoming increasingly competitive energy sources throughout Zambia and her neighbouring countries. The Zambezi River Basin Joint Environmental Flows Programme has also recognised that our beloved river has a life of its own, and that to maintain her pulse we need to restore or mimic the historical flow wherever possible.

Even schools are beginning to take up the challenge, with hundreds of students planting trees, upcycling, learning about sustainable farming and teaching their parents a thing or two about caring for our planet.

So the Zambezi River and Victoria Falls have plenty of guardians working to ensure that they stay in perfect health!

Rather than worrying about our tourist attractions, why not sponsor a Zambian child through his or her education? The

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future of this beautiful country will surely lie in their hands, and there are a lot of incredible trust schools set up all around the country who could use your support.

Then there’s the big secret...the dry season is fabulous.

It is only when the Zambezi River levels are not at their peak that travellers can visit Livingstone Island, the spot where Dr. David Livingstone famously first viewed the Falls. And the water needs to become even lower in order for brave swimmers to take a dip in Devil’s Pool on the very edge of the waterfall.

When the water is lower, rafting in the gorge below is also far more exciting, creating Class 5 rapids of a kind that can only be found in a few other places in the world. The rapids have extremely welcoming names like the Devil’s Toilet Bowl, the Terminator, and even the Gnashing Jaws of Death. Sounds fun, right?

For people looking for a slightly less intense adventure and when the Falls is not so much of a mighty beast, travellers can actually climb down into Batoka Gorge and swim at the foot of the waterfall without getting washed away.

The dry season also means more game sightings, since the animals can reliably be found by water. Walking with rhinos, elephant interactions, and enchanting game drives into the Chobe National Park are all activities that take less than a day if you’re based in or around Livingstone, the town on the Zambian side of the Falls. And helicopter flights in the Batoka Gorge are extremely ‘James Bond’ at this time. Don’t be fooled by the crowds who pour in along with the higher waters. Locals tend to invite international friends to stay later in the year.

And so, in a nutshell, climate change is a challenge that we all need to face together.

‘Fake news’ doesn’t help because it feeds climate change deniers and that is also terrible.

Victoria Falls, on the other hand, is beautiful and majestic and will in all likelihood outlive us all. Like most women, she is just as gorgeous when she slims down as when she is voluptuous and positively pulling at her seams. Just let her do her thing. It’s a privilege to see the Mosi-oa-Tunya in any of her many forms.

Basically, do your research before you come, make sure the time is right for what you are looking for, and if in doubt, be sure to get in touch with a local company and ask!

And if you want to get involved in Zambia’s fight for a brighter future, empower her children. Much like our famous waterfall and even when they are at their lowest, our young people have strength like the might of the Zambezi driving them onwards. All they need is a little bit of a leg up, and they could save the world. ■

TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

R I D E W H E R E N O O N E H AS R I D D E N B E F O R E SIMALAHA HORSE SAFARIS OFFER A UNIQUE RIDING EXPERIENCE COMBINING WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS AND CULTURAL INTERACTION, TOGETHER WITH KNOWLEDGEABLE GUIDES AND STAFF, COMFORTABLE BUSH ACCOMMODATION, HOT SHOWERS AND GOOD HORSES TO BOOT.

Simalaha Horse Safaris offer three package options, some combining a riding holiday with visiting Victoria Falls and staying at Chundukwa River Lodge: SEVEN NIGHTS (Riding with wildlife, Chundukwa and Victoria Falls), FIVE NIGHTS (Riding with wildlife, Chundukwa and Victoria Falls), THREE NIGHTS (Simalaha riding only) For inquiries and reservations contact reservations@chundukwa.com For more on Simalaha: www.peaceparks.org/simalaha

 ZAMBIA | HORSE SAFARIS

Simalaha Horse Safaris in Zambia

WRITER: GAIL KLEINSCHMIDT PHOTOGRAPHY: CHUNDUKWA RIVER LODGE

imalaha Horse Safaris and Chundukwa River Lodge have opened a new chapter to an amazing adventure in Zambia on the Zambezi Flats; close enough to Victoria Falls, Livingstone, to make this a perfect travel experience.

‘This,’ says Doug Evans, a master horseman, ‘is real riding country.’

As the morning mists rise over a blanket of grasslands, there’s an indescribable stillness that precedes intermittent sounds of wildebeest snorting and zebra braying. We sip our early morning coffee looking out on the seemingly never-ending plains of the Simalaha Flats. Horses are quietly chewing their breakfast, blinking with satisfaction, and saddles are on the rack in preparation for a full day’s riding.

This is an African wilderness with a unique disposition; a place where wildlife and people co-exist under one sky. It is the Simalaha Community Conservancy, inspired and driven by visionaries—Chief Inyambo Yeta of the Sesheke Chiefdom and Chief Sekute of the Sekute Chiefdom. The conservancy forms a link between the Chobe National Park in Botswana and the Kafue National Park in Zambia. Also, interestingly, the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) is the world’s largest transfrontier conservation area ever established and is an exciting initiative that involves five countries:

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TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Partnering with Peace Parks Foundation, this vision has become a reality. Wildebeest, zebra, lechwe, puku, impala, waterbuck, giraffe and buffalo have been re-introduced to the plains and many more wildlife species are on their way in the very near future. The ‘old days’, when the Simalaha flood plains were teeming with wildlife, the forests thick and the people benefiting from this rich environment, are once more being realised.

Each step towards this end is carefully worked through by the Simalaha Community Conservancy Trust and Peace Parks, sensitising and supporting the communities to embrace such changes.

HORSE SAFARIS | ZAMBIA 

More and more wildlife can start to traverse old migration paths safely and already elephants have been seen periodically walking their historical timelines.

‘We are very privileged to be invited to participate in this remarkable venture by Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta,’ says Doug. ‘I have been riding horses in wildlife areas for over 40 years and this opportunity is a real dream come true. Having grown up as a fourth generation Zambian in this area, I am familiar with the Zambezi flood plains and the Lozi and Sekute people of western Zambia.’

We conducted our first reconnaissance on horseback into Simalaha in September 2019.

The wide-open plains offered perfect flat riding conditions for cantering alongside wildlife; the horses also had to swim across small tributaries flowing back into the Zambezi River. We watched pelicans feasting on catfish squirming in the shallows, and African jacanas, sometimes known as ‘lily trotters’, darting for insects. We also saw reed cormorants, long-toed lapwings and a myriad of kingfishers. We admired the majestic African fish eagle flying overhead keeping a watchful eye on potential catfish, and all the time we were riding with wildebeest and zebra in our sights, plus lechwe and waterbuck. Mixed in with the wildlife were the community’s cattle, adding another dimension to our ride.

Reaching the Zambezi River, we rode into the fishing villages where the fishermen were amazed to see the horses.

In some cases, we were pretty sure the children had never seen a horse in their lives, hence immense excitement and dogs barking, and the children excitedly accompanied us to the river.

The Zambezi River is 3,600 kilometres from source to sea, running from the north west of Zambia east towards the Indian Ocean. We rode along its high banks, giving us a great vantage point to look down into the river to see hippos and crocodiles. We then turned back inland, riding up into the mopane woodland and viewing herds of impala and also giraffe.

These trees are well known for hosting the mopane worm which is harvested as a source of protein for the local people.

The Simalaha Community Conservancy extends in every direction and offers endless different riding options with scenic rivers, pans and forest, always in sight of some form of wildlife. There

are few roads in this untamed wilderness area, so all rides are backed up with pack mules and saddle bags.

Getting back to our camp in the late afternoon, the horses were all picketed out for the night and with camp fires ready lit and sundowners in hand we sat and watched the sun sink over the distant horizon. And again, the deep silence of the Simalaha plain swept over us ensuring the best night’s sleep ever.

Simalaha Horse Safaris offer a unique riding experience combining wildlife encounters and cultural interaction, together with knowledgeable guides and staff, comfortable bush accommodation, hot showers and good horses to boot.

‘Our horses are a mixture of Basuto ponies, quarter horses and Boerperds [from South Africa]. We use comfortable trail, Western and Australian stock saddles. Horses are well seasoned and schooled and for horsemen and women they will be a pleasure to ride,’ says Doug.

Riding groups consist of a maximum of eight and a minimum of four people.

Between four and six hours will be spent in the saddle each day. During the heat of the day guests can relax in their bespoke tented camp on the high ground, overlooking the Simalaha plains. On full riding days a picnic lunch will be provided, and riders will enjoy a well-earned siesta in the cool shade of the trees before mounting up and riding back to camp for evening sundowners.

In addition to Simalaha Horse Safaris, Doug and his partner Gail own and run a well-established lodge on the banks of the Zambezi River, 30 kilometres upstream from Victoria Falls. Chundukwa River Lodge offers panoramic river views from its bespoke stilted wooden chalets. You can end your riding holiday with some wonderful R&R here, seeing the Victoria Falls, with sundowner cruises on the river and lots more. Chundukwa is also the main base for Doug’s horse herd. Avid riders can enjoy riding out in the surrounding wilderness area and along the river while staying in the lodge. ■ Zambezi Horse Safaris offer three package options, some combining a riding holiday with visiting Victoria Falls and staying at Chundukwa River Lodge: • Seven nights (riding with wildlife, Chundukwa and Victoria Falls) • Five nights (riding with wildlife, Chundukwa and Victoria Falls) • Three nights (Simalaha riding only) • All conservancy fees are included in the rate and go directly to supporting the Simalaha Community Conservancy Trust with their hands-on community initiatives.

Please note that in order to qualify to ride you will be asked to fill in a questionnaire. For inquiries and reservations, you can contact reservations@chundukwa.com For more on Simalaha: www.peaceparks.org/simalaha

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 ZAMBIA | 4X4 CHALLENGE

Fuchs Elephant Charge 2020 4x4 Off-Road Challenge Raises ZMW2.9M for Conservation WRITER: SARAH DAVIES PHOTOGRAPHY: ELEPHANT CHARGE

mongst the tribulations and challenges of this year, we weren’t even sure that the Fuchs Elephant Charge 2020 would take place. Darkest of depressions for the Elephant Charge committee who have looked forward to the annual event since 2008. Could it be that this year would be cancelled?

Luckily the Covid-19 pandemic in Zambia has started to ease off over the past few months, and our movement and

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gathering restrictions have been lifted to the point that a socially distanced Elephant Charge looked as if it might be possible.

The Elephant Charge was keen to go ahead in any workable way, adhering to all protocols, most importantly to continue to support our conservation beneficiaries in Zambia, such as the Chongololo Conservation School Clubs. Many of the projects that the Elephant Charge supports rely on significant funding from the tourism industry whose income has

TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

reduced immensely. So somewhere in mid-August 2020 the final decision to put our foot on the pedal was made.

This year’s off-road 4x4 challenge event was met with huge enthusiasm from teams. Although understandably we did have a few less vehicles than in 2019, the 2020 event saw 23 teams enter from all over Zambia. The course set by the committee this year was in the valley of the Kawanga River, off Chifwema Road and approximately two hours from

4X4 CHALLENGE | ZAMBIA 

Thank you as always to all of our supporters, too many to be named, but a few here: Fuchs, Geotab, Omega Security, CC Systems, Pilatus Zambia, Zambia Air Force, Afrityre, Country Choice Chicken, National Milling, Kal Tire, Autoworld, NewGrowCo, LDC, Omnia, Turaco, Leopards Hill Memorial Park, Chakanaka Farms, Jean Dollery, Trade Kings, Signs of the Times, SATIB Insurance and the Bright Future Project. ■ Lusaka. With sandy hills, rocky riverbeds and precipitous ravines as obstacles, the teams set off at 7am from their first checkpoint, hoping that they would see it again before 3pm in order to complete the course in time.

Congratulations to our shortest net distance (distance minus funds raised) winner, Team Eco-Charcoal in a 1993 Toyota Land Cruiser VX 80 Series, and to our shortest distance winner, Team Camel in a 1995 Landrover Defender

90 TDi. With heated competition for the ladies’ team trophy this year between four contenders, hats off to the winners, Lady Hogs!

We are delighted to announce that the Fuchs Elephant Charge raised ZMW2,892,895 (US$144,644) for our conservation projects, even more than last year with a third less teams! This takes the total conservation funds raised in Zambia by the Elephant Charge to US$1,176,284.

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT HOW TO GET INVOLVED IN THE NEXT ADVENTURE? Visit:www.elephantcharge.org www.facebook.com/ elephantcharge Instagram: @elephant.charge. zambia Twitter: @elephantcharge1 or contact: info@ elephantcharge.org

CHARTER

CHARTER

Anywhere within Zambia and the Region

reservations@procharterzambia.com

0974250110

Terms & Conditions Apply

INTERVIEW | ZAMBIA 

INTERVIEW WITH

Nick Aslin INTERVIEW: ANDREW MUSWALA PHOTOGRAPHY: ZAMBIAN GROUND HANDLERS

he safari industry globally has been adversely affected by the Covid-19 pandemic. Andrew Muswala talks to Nick Aslin, owner of Zambian Ground Handlers, about where he sees Zambia’s safari industry moving in the future.

ZAMBIAN GROUND HANDLERS HAVE NOW BEEN IN EXISTENCE FOR 11 YEARS. CAN YOU TELL ME HOW IT ALL BEGAN? I had been running what was then Norman Carr Safaris since the mid-‘90s but realised that there was a gap in the Zambian market. No one was offering independent and unbiased assistance to the trade, making it easier to drive more business to this wonderful destination.

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 WAS THERE ANY COMPETITION WHEN YOU DECIDED TO LAUNCH THE COMPANY? No, not really. I had been offering to book flights and other people’s camps when someone booked our camps and others were doing similar but this was all an attempt to fill one’s own camps first. The industry is a little larger now and I’m no longer the only one packaging Zambia.  WHAT IS THE KEY TO THE SUCCESS OF ZAMBIAN GROUND HANDLERS? I always believe that a fair and equitable approach to business goes a long way. I am in partnership both with tour operators around the world and with camp owners here in Zambia. Luckily there is room for all of us in the supply chain; we each add value to the travelling public but do not need to increase what they end up paying.  HOW IMPORTANT IS ZAMBIA’S TOURISM INDUSTRY IN RELATION TO AFRICA’S AS A WHOLE?

Zambia remains a lesser-known and seldom-visited destination when compared with the likes of Kenya and Tanzania to the east, or Botswana and South Africa to the south. Those that know the country however, and what it has to offer, understand that Zambia provides what so many people are looking for in their African safari experience: incredible game viewing in unspoiled wilderness conducted in an authentic manner.  WHAT WAS THE SAFARI LANDSCAPE LIKE IN ZAMBIA DURING THE LAST FIVE YEARS? Getting busier and busier! Over the past couple of decades, the Zambian ‘secret’ has very much been let out of the bag.

The more people that travel here, the more they get to hear how wonderful it is.

In some areas this has led to complaints of overcrowding but let’s be serious; the largest safari camp in Zambia has 18 rooms and most have just three or four and are in hidden corners of our national parks. We must remain vigilant in order to continue offering first-class experiences but we’re a long way from capacity.  HOW HAS COVID-19 IMPACTED THE SAFARI INDUSTRY IN ZAMBIA? As with international travel around the globe, it brought it to an immediate halt in mid-March. At the time of writing in September we are seeing a few green shoots; some people will be travelling in the last few months of 2020 and most people that had booked their Zambian safari for 2020 will be travelling in 2021 instead.

One silver lining has been the number of safari camps usually filled with highpaying international guests who have adapted and opened their doors to the local market. Many have offered self-catering rates, enabling Zambian residents to

experience the best of our camps in the finest of national parks at affordable prices.

DID YOU HAVE ANY PLAN TO COMBAT A SITUATION SUCH AS COVID-19?

As with most people around the world, we at ZGH were taken somewhat by surprise.

I like to think we have adapted over the past six months or more, but I maintain that no one could have predicted in February 2020 what was about to happen to the international travel and tourism industry. It has not been a pleasant ride but I am confident that man’s curiosity and his desire to travel the world will return—and hopefully return in force.

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 HOW DO YOU THINK THE INDUSTRY WILL EVOLVE IN THE FUTURE POST COVID-19?

Our industry is forever evolving. Covid has certainly thrown us a curve ball but our world is becoming smaller; remote places, once relatively hard to access, are now easier than ever to find. Although long-haul travel itself will worry many people, those same people will be happy enough to find themselves in a small bush camp in a remote corner of Africa with few other people around.  DO YOU THINK THERE WILL BE MORE OPPORTUNITIES TO DEVELOP DOMESTIC TOURISM IN ZAMBIA POST COVID-19?

For sure. I hope that those camps that have welcomed resident tourists at reduced rates will have seen the value of their trade. Equally, I hope that this year has given a chance to some that in the past may have looked beyond our borders to realise that our own domestic tourism product is in fact very hard to beat. ■

TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

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 ZAMBIA | NATURE HEALS

Nature Heals RESTORE YOUR SANITY AND SELF ON SAFARI WRITER: BROOKE BERLIN PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHANN VANZYL ll of Zambia is perfumed by the blossoming mahogany trees and I’ve never appreciated the sweet scent of Africa more. Every time I inhale I give thanks for the reminder of how healing it is to be on safari.

As soon as Kenya opened its borders I planned a trip from my home in the USA, to spend two weeks between two very private and personalised properties: Ol Jogi and Cottar’s. I had such a remarkable time that as soon as Zambia started welcoming international travellers I planned a last minute trip—now knowing

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how easy it can be—to explore Victoria Falls from Livingstone, as well as three national parks: South Luangwa, Kafue and Lower Zambezi. And also Lusaka, because I love African cities and want others to as well, especially when travellers can feel comfortable tucking in for a few nights if they need to get a Covid test before leaving.

For the better part of 2020, I heard a lot of ‘Africa needs tourism; Africa needs you’, and while yes, many of the most impactful conservation and community non-profit initiatives (many supported by the properties I visited and mention) do rely on tourism expenditure and donor contributions, it was during my time in Zambia that I came to the realisation that, actually, YOU need AFRICA; we all do!

When gliding silently along the waters of the Kafue River, on the Green Safaris Ila Lodge solar-powered boat, I marvelled at a massive herd of buffalo gathered on the shore, but yet was more moved by the billowing birdsong echoing in my ears. It reminded me of the talk earlier in the year that more birds had flocked to New York City; but really, we had all just become more still and quiet, amplifying the sounds of nature that had been there all along. I listened as intently to the melodic chirping around me as I would to an opera at the Met, feeling as if a little bit of what I had lost this year was being returned to me, such as live performances.

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NATURE HEALS | ZAMBIA 

champers) in hand, sharing stories of the bush, and building bridges with others from around the world. I’m pleased that even in a time where privacy and space are preferred and sanctified, that we can still connect, human to human, just without the hugs.

In the end, an international trip to Africa is exactly what the doctor prescribed for me, and I’m sure for you, too. It’s actually quite easy, and Zambia is open to citizens from all countries around the world. Find the best airline route that works for you, given that options might still be limited. Get a Covid test within two weeks of arrival and ensure it’s PCR (polymerase chain reaction) negative, and verified in English. Figure out if you need a visa—you can get it upon arrival which is super easy—so have the cash to hand.

Book with an accredited operator in your country— my trip was organised by Zambian Ground Handlers who work with every operator out there—so that you have a contact for your questions or an ear for your hesitations. Pack a mask (mandatory on flights); we flew domestically with Proflight Zambia and fully trust the safety and security, health and hygiene protocols they have in place, similar to all the lodges. Take some hand sanitiser or disinfectant wipes (nice to have on flights), and be prepared to have your temperature taken daily and a constant squirt of sanitiser applied directly to your hands by camp staff throughout your trip.

With a few simple guidelines adhered to, you’ll find yourself in Zambia in no time having the best safari of your life and reviving your sheltered spirit. ■

This year has taken a lot from, and out of, most people. My body has carried the weight and stress of uncertainty like many others. Being able to have some therapeutic massages (my first since January) was a welcome release. My first, a private in-chalet open-air treatment, was at Sindabezi, with the waters of the Zambezi providing some white noise of serenity; my second was a couple’s massage, poolside at the new, private Director’s House at Mfuwe Lodge in South Luangwa and the orange blossom oil organically energised my soul.

I never want to hear the mandate ‘Shelter at Home’ again, being the active outdoor adventurer that I am. It was thrilling to be at Victoria Falls where the Sindabezi team organised a microlight flight over the majestic gorge, a walk with rhinos in the Mosi-oaTunya National Park and a daring excursion to Livingstone Island for a swim in Devil’s Pool, all of which made my heart skip a beat, which actually set it right again. And from Sausage Tree Camp on the Lower Zambezi we had days of play on the water, canoeing, boating and fishing. From all the bush properties I stayed at I could also have gone on a walking safari, but this time I was content to sit in a vehicle and cover more ground, as the national parks were empty and I knew this would be the only opportunity to explore them without other guests or vehicles. On our first game drive at Sausage Tree Camp we came upon two leopards together and spent more than an hour with them, totally alone. It was the same private experience on safari at Time + Tide Chinzombo and also at Mfuwe Lodge, where we had South Luangwa National Park to ourselves (more lovely leopard sightings as well as other game); and at Green Safaris Ila Lodge where we didn’t see anyone else in Kafue National Park.

All that said, while we were out on safari in a private vehicle and responsibly socially distancing when back at the lodges, we still met kindred spirits. Being social is BIOGRAPHY: BROOKE BERLIN part of my nature and I am fulfilled by Founder of Karoo Consulting, a company community and networking. In a time focused on promoting travel to Africa and when we’re told to ‘bubble’ and keep our supporting conservation and community nondistance, it was really rejuvenating to profit organisations, Brooke has been exploring have conversations with other travellers. the continent for 15 years and has been to 19 of It was especially nice to make a new Africa’s 54 countries. She studied journalism friend, a Lusaka resident, whom we met and cultural anthropology and her passion and at Time + Tide Chinzombo, skills combine to bring awareness to the diversity reconnected with at Green Safaris Ila and uniqueness of Africa. Her favourite activities Lodge where we were invited to join for include: participating in a rhino notching and her Big-0 celebrations, and closed out elephant rescue; boating and flying; enjoying designer outfits from the trip with at Sausage Tree Camp. One Johannesburg, Lusaka and Accra; and visiting tribes in the Omo of the most special elements of a safari is Valley, Nubian Desert and West Africa. sitting around the fire, G&T (or

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 ZAMBIA | IRENE AMIET

MY ZAMBIA WRITER: IRENE AMIET PHOTOGRAPHY: IRENE AMIET PHOTOGRAPHY

hen I dream of a place where the leopard’s paw touches the sandy riverbank as the sun rises over the Luangwa River and baboons call under nature’s open circus tent, where the lion’s roar carries across the flood plains further than any other place I recall and hippos storm into the Zambezi at its broadest and mightiest—I dream of Zambia.

Having had the fortune to travel extensively over Southern Africa as a research volunteer and a safari executive as well as a professional photographer, certain places have made an impression beyond fondness or excitement; special places that stay aglow in your mind until you can eventually return.

Covering an area of 22,500 square kilometres, the great Kafue in Zambia is one of the larger conservation areas in Southern Africa. Founded in the middle of the last century but still relatively uncharted, the Kafue is a place that deserves to be called wild.

The northern flood plains are home to some of the most resilient lion families. There, in the Busanga Plains, they stalk the tall grass for lechwe and puku antelope while storks and cranes circle in great flocks above. The open grasslands are similar to East Africa’s topography but visitors can find themselves completely alone on a game drive even in the high season. Safari camps are situated in the middle of the flood plains, providing guests with a sense of being on an island in the midst of a sea of wilderness with an unobstructed 360 degrees’ view. The resulting sense of vulnerability is a luxury in our fast-paced world. At night, a hippo’s grunts might enter your consciousness from below the camp’s stilts. One can’t help but feel submerged in nature, one heart within the whole.

When the morning mists are slowly lifting over the open plains and lechwe horns begin to materialise with advancing daylight, the waterholes are tinged in deepest carmine red for a moment. Eventually, the sun burns off the night and shows us a glimpse of what awaits discovery. The Kafue is home to some of the biggest herds of roan antelope, whose russet hides play off the tree-bark of the wooded areas; and when the warm wind blows across the plains, the crowned cranes hover like string puppets over the grasslands where they feed. Herds of buffalo trudge across the hazy horizon; in the pockets of the plains still holding water,

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hippos fight for dominance. In August, during Zambia’s dry-season, only a few of the plains’ ponds still contain enough water to enable these animals to lounge in great concentrations. Their massive bodies plough through the floods and part the water’s surface, creating wakes lapping on shore long after they have once again submerged, beady eyes glittering as they communicate in deep throaty grunts.

In the Busanga Plains, nature is active around you and there is no haste to chase a sighting. You do not have to share a lion pride with an army of tourists ticking species off their lists and taking safari selfies.

Zambia caters to a relaxed traveller, perhaps familiar with Africa, who isn’t in a rush but appreciates the wilfulness of nature and is surprised by her moods; sightings will be bountiful but never the same.

IRENE AMIET | ZAMBIA 

Many visitors to Zambia choose the circuit of Busanga Plains, South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi as a three-stop safari.

The small-craft flights are long enough to give guests a proper idea of what the landscapes look like. When changing ‘planes in Lusaka on transfer days the contrast of wilderness and civilisation is stark, making the former taste even sweeter when re-entered.

If you are in awe of leopards, chances of seeing this spotted cat are highest in South Luangwa. The tree-rimmed river banks are prime territory for the elegant feline, and on a drive into the blinking morning sun eyes are firmly trained on the fig tree’s branches that invitingly bend to give the cats their preferred perches. This park is still relatively off the beaten tourist track and a gem for exploring on foot.

Ever since Norman Carr started his Zambian walking safaris in 1950, the country has established itself as a leader in providing this most thrilling and genuine bush experience. Where safari travel can often just drop us into a small oasis of luxury within the wilderness, Zambia does the original type of safari—in smaller, tented camps—best. When we crave the authenticity of vulnerability, standing on our feet in the middle of the animal kingdom is a different story to sitting in a Land Rover from morning to night.

Walking safaris are part of what make journeys to Zambia special. One stops being a visitor and becomes part of the place. When standing with a bachelor herd of elephants or following animal prints across the Luangwa’s riverbeds, it’s not so much an accelerated heartbeat one feels, but a sense of calm, of enchanted serenity. With the country’s expertly trained guides, one feels not only perfectly safe, but also understands how a balanced relationship between humans and wildlife is rooted in respect.

When I first flew across the Zambezi Escarpment to the red-sanded foothills by the water and spotted massive crocodiles sunning themselves like tree-logs on the sandbanks, I thought I’d landed in my childhood adventure dream world. The Lower Zambezi is a repository of stories and lore and with the river’s sheer size provides expansion for our senses. We foreigners often speak of coming home to

Africa. Maybe it’s an appropriation, maybe it’s the connectivity with the cradle of humanity. Most likely, it’s the melancholy of realising how far we’ve removed ourselves from nature’s kingdom in our urban landscape of the northern hemisphere, brought home when faced with the spectacle of this wide, slow-running stream and the stories it spins in its floods and along its shores.

Canoeing along the river provides a new perspective on how we can visit wild places leaving an even smaller footprint. Due to the vastness of the river, the hippos on the Lower Zambezi seem shy of human contact, running into the floods when a paddle strikes the water’s calm surface. Yellow-billed storks take off with slow, deliberate wingstrokes. Elephants shower their backs with trunks full of water and bee-eaters zigzag along the banks like coloured dots flicked from a painter’s brush.

Sitting by the shores of the Zambezi in the warm, lazy midday heat, dreams are allowed to take wing and time seems of no importance. Here, time is measured by sunrise and sunset, by dry season and rains. And for a short while, one is allowed to be away from safety and sensibility, at the mercy of a place where outside of the tent’s thin canvas and torch-lit path to the campfire, we’re but a happenstance.

Elephant dung is fermenting; and the many tracks in the sand along the Zambezi banks create great designs, but soon they will be gone in the dust and the heat. As the air currents roll towards Mozambique and the ocean, there’s a rustle, a screech, then nothing but the calm of the bush; a chirp, a call, and life as we know it has stopped and is turned into a new form, born witness by the elephants’ own memories.

Zambia’s conservation regions have remained wild and unspoilt. They cater for those who wish to enter the wild kingdom respectfully and quietly, conserving a sense of vulnerability and understanding the fragility...our own and also that of the wild. ■

BIOGRAPHY: IRENE AMIET

Irene is a UK-based photographer and freelance writer. Originally from Basel, Switzerland, Irene first came to Limpopo, South Africa, with a big cat density research expedition. Having fallen in love with the bush, she stayed on working in the safari industry. This background gave her a deep appreciation for conservation and its visions for local communities and resource management.

Irene has travelled extensively in Southern Africa as a photographer. She often uses her images for fundraising in order to give back to the organisations working to keep Africa’s wildlife habitats diverse and wild. In the UK, Irene currently runs a fine art gallery and photography workshops with her husband. She has enjoyed writing for lifestyle magazines and newspapers in various countries, as well as running blogs on photography. www.ireneamiet.com

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 ZAMBIA | TAKWELA CAMP

Takwela Camp AT NATURE’S PACE...

WRITER: JENNIFER COPPINGER PHOTOGRAPHY: REMOTE AFRICA SAFARIS, PATRICK BENTLEY, SCOTT RAMSAY

iving in the 21st century certainly comes with its perks: extensive travel opportunities, advanced health care and access to cutting edge technology. What I mean is that by the next century people will be living on Mars and will be shooting off to sip cocktails at the edge of our galaxy—or at least this is what we’re led to believe—so much change, so much development, so much progress. And along with all of the perks comes a high-paced lifestyle with which everyone is expected to keep in step, no matter the gruelling pace.

Sometimes it’s hard to believe that there are still wild places on Earth that exist as they did a hundred years ago. Zambia holds many of these natural jewels, with the Luangwa Valley being a particularly prized and precious place. The Valley supports an array of wildlife including the highest population of Zambia’s carnivores, Africa’s highest population of hippo, while also boasting 469 different species of birds.

The far-flung and more remote North Luangwa, being strictly seasonal for tourism and much harder to access, is largely undiscovered. Very few bush camps enable entry into this wild space, but Takwela Camp, the latest addition to the Remote Africa Safaris portfolio, is one of them.

Takwela is a small bush camp nestled amongst leafy riverine forest on the edge of the North Luangwa National Park, looking over the confluence of the Mwaleshi and Luangwa Rivers.

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Solar powered and built out of natural materials using local skills, Takwela is as close to the natural experience as you can get without skimping on all of the comforts you would expect from an authentic safari adventure. Listen to the night sounds of the bush—a hippo grazing near the chalet, the rasping grunt of the territorial leopard and the gentle churring of a nightjar—while safely tucked between cotton sheets and

TAKWELA CAMP | ZAMBIA 

covered by a tent-sized mosquito net inside an airy thatched chalet.

At dawn, warm rays creep over the Luangwa River and into the camp while you sip an early morning cup of coffee around the camp fire. Breakfast is enjoyed with a view as the chairs face out over the rivers’ confluence and an expansive dry riverbed, known as a ‘wafwa’ in the vernacular, now green with grass and small flora. The wafwa attracts herds of impala, puku and waterbuck as well as foraging warthog and even a few hyena, their

presence clarified by the whistle of some nervous puku. The hyena lope through the shallow Mwaleshi and out of sight while their eerie whoop carries clearly downriver to the breakfast buffet through the crisp morning air; and several hundred hippos shuffle back into place along the river’s edge after a night of grazing.

Activities slot into the natural rhythm of the space. Walking safaris follow existing animal paths to track the Luangwa’s wildlife on foot and game drives wind along dirt tracks that twist slowly through the bush. Night drives spot nocturnal creatures normally hidden by a curtain of darkness such as civet, genet, bushbaby, owls, aardvark and leopard.

The day ends at nature’s pace with a spectacular orange sunset reflected over a pod of snorting hippos while you sit back and sip a G&T. Glancing skywards you may spot some stars, maybe even Mars, twinkling down at you. In that moment it would be hard to think that a G&T could taste better anywhere else, even at the edge of the galaxy. ■

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Sausage Tree Camp and Potato Bush Camp, located in the heart of the Lower Zambezi National Park, promise an unparalleled, time-honoured safari. Tailored private guiding optimises the wildlife experience, with a range of activities including game-drives, night-drives, walking safaris, scenic boat cruises, canoeing and fishing on the Zambezi River. Our uncompromisingly high standard of luxury and service combines with an approach to hospitality which is warm and friendly.

The beautiful views from camp will entice even the most active safari-goer to pause, and savour the extraordinary riches of the surrounding natural world as they reflect on safari memories which will last a lifetime. reservations@sausagetreecamp.com / www.sausagetreecamp.com / www.potatobushcamp.com

ROAD TRIP | ZAMBIA 

The road Les travels

EASTERN AND NORTHERN ZAMBIA: ADVENTURES YOU MISS BY FLYING WRITER: LESLIE NEVISON PHOTOGRAPHY: MAMA TEMBO TOURS ZAMBIA

tinerary creation is what I enjoy best as a safari operator. I decide where to go and how to make the logistics work through first-hand experience. Right now, I am in South Luangwa National Park, the first stop on a 14-day road safari in Zambia.

I am not alone. I have driver Mathews with me. The cover story is that he is learning the route. In truth, Mathews is my insurance that the Land Cruiser returns to Lusaka intact and not abandoned at the bottom of the Luangwa River, where I might drive it while loading it onto the pontoon we cross to enter North Luangwa National Park. This pontoon is constructed like a funeral pyre of layered branches and sticks which crack alarmingly like thin ice under the weight of the vehicle.

Another truth is that this particular Mama Tembo Tours Zambia (MTTZ) itinerary has been running successfully for a while. Nor can I claim to have discovered it. Adventurous locals and ‘Africa-is-my-oyster’ South Africans have driven the route for years. In brief, the purpose of my trip is to check current road conditions and accommodations, and to get out of the office and enjoy myself.

The itinerary is fantastic. It combines three national parks—South Luangwa, Luambe, and North Luangwa—with places like Shiwa Ng’andu, the country manor now historical estate built by Sir Stewart Gore-Browne, and Mutinondo Wilderness, locations which are difficult to fit into a fly-in-and-out Zambia itinerary. It also includes shorter stops like Kundalila Falls, time and incentive permitting. If you travel in late October, it can include Kasanka National Park for its amazing spectacle of the fruit bat migration.

Picture this sight: 10 million bats in the sky over your head at sunset. The itinerary can

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 ZAMBIA | ROAD TRIP

even include Lake Tanganyika in Zambia’s far north, a lake so clear and beautiful that all other African lakes pale in comparison.

We begin our road trip in Lusaka, travelling to South Luangwa National Park in one long day. We are up bright and early to walk with Gavin Opie of Nkonzi Camp and his armed scout. It’s an interesting start to the walk. A leopard has killed a porcupine. There are scattered loose quills and a pool of dark blood in the dust. There are easily followed tracks left by the porcupine’s needles as the cat dragged it away. I wonder if the leopard has a mouthful of quills. We give up on following this potentially injured leopard when its tracks enter a densely wooded area.

This is my first visit to Nkonzi, which is located 20 kilometres from the South Luangwa park gate. Nkonzi has some good things going for it. Because of its location, its activities avoid the park gate area and what has become one of the busier places for game viewing vehicles. Nkonzi also offers all-day game drives which are a blessing in October when the Luangwa Valley’s temperatures are over 38°C. It is cooler taking a long lunch break under a tree within sight of an elephant and buffalo river crossing than it is to remain in camp where tent interiors are easily 10 degrees hotter.

After Nkonzi, we make a two-night stop at Luambe National Park. Wedged between South and North Luangwa National Parks, little Luambe’s future grows increasingly brighter with the re-establishment of tourism facilities in the form of the four-tent Luambe Lodge and a satellite bush camp. The lodge’s operating company, Luambe Conservation Ltd., supports an anti-poaching team and the Zambian Carnivore Programme as well as improvement projects in the surrounding local communities. While these crucial conservation practicalities go on behind the scenes, Luambe’s visitors enjoy the very best hippo watching in the entire Luangwa Valley. The lodge is perched high above a section of the Luangwa River with the greatest number of hippos. The entire lodge is literally a hippo hide. Nights are noisy!

Luambe is also fortunate to have a nearby carmine bee-eater colony. During this beautiful bird’s brief nesting period of September/October, the lodge offers the unique activity of coffee at sunrise facing the nesting site. As the light changes, the carmines leave their nests—tunnels excavated deep into the river bank—and take to the sky in short dashes of swooping flight which nets them their first insect prey of the day. Both the hippos and ‘Carmine Coffee’ make Luambe a special destination in Zambia.

The fisherman appears out of the bush as though he expects us. He soon explains why. Many drivers before us have also obeyed their outdated GPS Garmin instructions and have left the winding track though woodland, which certainly looks like the correct route to the pontoon, to lurch agonisingly slowly over several kilometres of rock-hard fissures of black cotton soil. To be fair, Garmin did lead us to the very edge of the Luangwa River. The pontoon is ‘just over there’ says the fisherman with a wave of the hand in the general direction. However, a few hectares of forest stand between us and ‘just over there’. We must back track says our helpful and apologetic fisherman.

Serendipitously, his father operates the pontoon and our saviour

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is happy to grab his bucket of fish, settle in the front seat, chat with Mathews, and show us the way. I disconnect Garmin and toss her rudely into the back seat. ‘Keep it simple’ remains good advice to follow. A Zimbabwean bushman once told me that while visiting the USA he became hopelessly lost on Florida’s freeways because an overcast sky obscured the sun by which he navigated!

We make Buffalo Camp in North Luangwa National Park by mid-afternoon.

North Luangwa is primarily a walking destination. I have had some of my best walks ever there, led by Buffalo Camp owner/operator Mark Harvey. Mark is one of the grandsons of Stewart Gore-Browne of Shiwa Ng’andu fame. I recommend any visitor to Zambia to read Christina Lamb’s fascinating if slightly fanciful biography of Stewart Gore-Browne and his family called The Africa House.

Ten years ago, and 15 kilos lighter, I walked for 12 days across Kenya’s East and West Tsavo National Parks to the Indian Ocean. Whether our group of opinionated Western tourists (many of us female) personally cared for our fearless leader became irrelevant. After multiple, daily, up-close encounters with elephants, we trusted him to get us through. At the end, while we soaked our blistered feet at the Malindi resort, our guide returned to our point of origin to walk the entire 120 kilometres again with another group.

Mark reminds me of that mercurial Kenyan walking guide. He is exactly who I want leading my walking safari in North Luangwa.

In North Luangwa, as the dry season draws to a close, buffalo congregate in

ROAD TRIP | ZAMBIA 

in the neighbouring Congo. We do not larger and larger herds for protection. Lions follow these herds. Predator action tends to insert a stop at Kasanka between be excellent. On our way to Kapishya Hot Springs from Buffalo, Mathews and I stop to Mutinondo Wilderness and Lusaka. We watch two lion brothers on a buffalo kill. One of these males goes by the name of Satan, head for Zambia’s capital. Traffic along which indicates the caution you need to take with him. Satan and his brother are a far cry the Great North Road continues to slow us from South Luangwa National Park’s famous lion siblings, Ginger and Garlic, which have as we near the city. Sure, we are sticky, their own Facebook page and line of knitted children’s toys. Ginger seems aware of his dusty and hot when we arrive and it feels pretty boy reputation, at least while the cameras are out. In contrast, Satan and his good to be safely home. But it had been a brother make chilling eye contact. Satan’s nose is crisscrossed with scars. His brother is wonderful safari. The benefit of travelling missing an ear. Satan snarls at the vehicle and even makes a few abortive charges at it. by road is that we are able to stop when Kapishya Hot Springs Lodge on the Shiwa Ng’andu estate is also owned by Mark. After and where we want to absorb the African I spend an entire day floating in the hot springs—a highlight of the lodge along with Mark’s landscape, physical and cultural. Time Jack Russell terriers and Dalmatians and spa treatments— Mathews and I continue to our permits the experience of the ‘real’, the last destination, the Mutinondo Wilderness. Here the stone cottages are scattered among here and now, Africa with all its wonders the whalebacks, enormous humped monoliths of granite, Africa’s ancient skeleton, and very and warts, and not the ‘Africa how it used much a geological feature of this wilderness. Closed chalets are available at Mutinondo, but to be’ branding of an industry selling the original rooms are three-sided, entirely open on one side to the views and night skies. I accommodations primarily and not the prefer the open chalets and have requested one for my stay. Most of our traditional Zambia kilometres and kilometres of Africa bush camps are exposed like this as well. It’s a fabulous way to connect with the wilderness. I between them. Besides, with the exception have never heard of an animal entering a room, which is what some clients fear when they of solar panels and satellite dishes, the tidy, first experience Zambia’s unique bush architecture. fastidiously swept villages that we see out The view from Mutinondo’s whalebacks is of the miombo woodland ‘flush’. In the of the car windows are rural scenes of Southern Hemisphere springtime, indigenous miombo tree species turn yellow and red, MTT Safaris_Print.pdf 1 04/12/2019 11:05 Zambia unchanged for generations. ■ leaf colours which we associate with the autumn in temperate climes. This ‘flush’ reaches its peak in September. I spend the entire next day on Mutinondo’s walking trails, which you can hike safely on your own with a provided map. I watch sunset with a gin and tonic from the top of a whaleback.

I am catching the tail end of the miombo ZAMBIA flush in mid-October. Unfortunately, I am also catching fire season. There are several fires burning around me, one close enough on arrival night that the lodge manager and his crew are working to contain it. These fires are not unique to Mutinondo; entire Zambia can appear ablaze from July through October. My international guests often ask me the reason for these fires. The answer is a combination of factors. During the dry season, farmers are preparing their fields for replanting, which traditionally has meant clearing by fire.

Indigenous hunters set fires to catch small prey more easily. Their hunting dogs will see tracks in the charred earth. National parks undertake control burning to lessen the effects if a large fire moves through dry bushland. In the windy Based in Lusaka, MTT specialises months of August and September, a fire set for in seeing Zambia by road in a comfortable safari vehicle with a any reason can easily spread out of control. A Staying in Lusaka? knowledgeable driver/guide. MTT also poster campaign, sponsored by First Quantum Ask about our arranges fly in and out safaris, as well as Minerals and the Wildlife and Environmental guest house, MT multiple destination safaris which combine Cheza, on a 5 acre Conservation Society of Zambia (WECSZ), Zambia with any of its neighbours. In all, MTT wooded plot just 30 educates against annual burning. The message works in nine African countries. MTT director Leslie minutes from the is simple: fires degrade the soil and air quality airport.

Nevison knows that a safari should be personal, and animals lose their lives. affordable, enlightening and hugely rewarding. Her The bats have not yet arrived in Kasanka mission is simple: create the African experience which is National Park from their riverine forest homes perfect for you. This makes MTT an excellent choice for all your travel needs in East, West, Central and Southern Africa.

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 ZAMBIA | CHILLI PROJECT

Chilli Farming WRITER: EMMA ROBINSON PHOTOGRAPHY: CONSERVATION SOUTH LUANGWA

he hot season in South Luangwa is also the best time to start planting hot chilliies. Christine Banda, a chilli farmer in Mfuwe since 2017, shares this tip she picked up in a chilli farming training workshop run by Conservation South Luangwa (CSL).

South Luangwa is a well-known safari destination. In October, temperatures here soar to over 40°C in the shade and its abundant wildlife concentrates along the Luangwa River, one of Africa’s last free-flowing rivers. The Luangwa River forms the majority of the park’s boundary on the eastern side and elephants regularly cross the river, entering the nearby villages in the Game Management Area. This brings them into conflict with people. CSL’s Human-Wildlife Conflict (HWC) mitigation team was established in 2007 to address the growing problem of human-elephant conflicts.

The HWC team at CSL set up the chilli farming scheme in 2008. Crop damage by elephants has a significant impact on farmers who live in the villages surrounding the national park; however, chillies can be grown safely in areas of high conflict with wildlife.

Elephants might try a sample of a chilli bush, but they won’t finish eating a whole field of chillies, meaning farmers will be able to harvest and sell the majority of their crop.

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In October 2020, over 200 new chilli farmers in four chiefdoms were trained how to grow chillies (Capsicum frutescens) by the HWC field officers. Over the years, HWC Project Co-ordinator, Mr. Billy Banda, has trained thousands of farmers in Zambia’s Eastern Province.

Christine Banda, (pictured), from Maili village in Kakumbi chiefdom, started growing chillies in 2017; she wanted to diversify from maize, sorghum and rice which elephants would destroy. She also experienced conflict with hippos who would graze the plants when they were at seedling or intermediate stage. In 2020, she sold 59 kilograms of dried chillies to CSL.

CHILLI PROJECT | ZAMBIA 

There are two major challenges in growing chillies—planting early will help reduce damage by termites—the other problem is too much water. Prolonged heavy rainfall and flooding reduced the 2020 crop to just 4,000 kilograms, a quarter of the amount harvested in 2019.

CSL is committed to buying all the chillies a farmer who has been trained

under the scheme can harvest. Many of the farmers use the proceeds of their crop to buy food and to pay for school fees for their children. CSL sells the chillies through an agent in Lusaka for use in hot sauces and other products.

The HWC team is now expanding an alternative crop scheme and will be working with farmers to grow turmeric, ginger and lemongrass. These can all be grown and harvested where elephants exist. Our aim is a sustainable future for people and wildlife in South Luangwa. ■

For more information on CSL and the HWC mitigation work please visit www.cslzambia.org

CROC VALLEY CAMP Affordable Accommodation South Luangwa - Zambia

During these trying times, we are encouraging Zambian Citizens and Residents to take advantage of our substantially reduced rates and to experience the magic of the South Luangwa National Park.

At CROC VALLEY CAMP we offer the following: River front tents with aircon - Self Catering Chalets - Air conditioned rooms - Solar powered Eco tents Spacious camp sites (with power points) - Self catering Kitchen - Game drives - Walking Safaris Full board options - Bar facilities - Extensive bar menu reservations@crocvalley.com

Contact: +260977175172

www.crocvalley.com

 ZAMBIA | BAT MIGRATION

A UNIQUE PHENOMENON—KASANKA NATIONAL PARK’S ANNUAL

Bat Migration WRITER: CHRISTELLE MALLANTS PHOTOGRAPHY: ANGELA STAVROU, KATIE SEIDEL, RICHARD PEEL

asanka National Park, in Zambia’s Central Province, is the scene of one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on Earth.

From October to December each year, about 10 million straw-coloured fruit bats migrate across from Central Africa to a small patch of swamp forest in the centre of the park to feast on an abundance of fruit ripening at this time of the year.

Bats provide valuable services to humans but sadly, all around the world, there are more and more misconceptions of their purpose, their necessity and their character.

These incredible creatures are becoming extinct and it’s a concern because they contribute to the ecosystem more than we could ever imagine.

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Bats are important for global biodiversity and ecosystem health, and many bat species have adapted to living safely alongside us in both urban and rural environments; in our gardens, parks and even roosting around our homes as beneficial neighbours.

The ecological roles of bats include pollinating and dispersing the seeds of hundreds of species of plants. For example, bats serve as major pollinators of

BAT MIGRATION | ZAMBIA 

many types of cacti that open their flowers only at night, when bats are active. In addition, bats eat copious quantities of insects and other arthropods; on a typical night, a bat consumes the equivalent of its own body weight of these creatures.

However, bats have continuously been demonised because they’re always seen as ‘scary bloodsuckers’ that will spread diseases and they are, therefore, often cruelly and unfairly killed. Other threats to bat survival include the use of pesticides and insecticides, habitat loss and the hunting of bats for bush meat in some regions of the world.

Let’s find out more about them and keep them safe!

SOME FUN AND IMPORTANT FACTS ABOUT BATS: • T here are over 1,200 different species of bats.

•M any bat species are in severe decline, with some already listed as endangered or threatened.

It is important to know that viewing the annual migration of the bats at Kasanka National Park will not put visitors at risk of catching Covid-19 from bats. Bats in the wild are not a threat to human health if protected and left undisturbed. Bats and other wildlife do not spread the disease among humans—only humans spread Covid-19 to other humans.

By visiting Kasanka National Park and spreading the word about the importance of bats, you are protecting the environment and participating in the local conservation, education and community work. ■

•B ats are pollinators, along

•

• • • • • •

•

•

with bees and butterflies, and provide a vital link to our food supply. They are the only pollinators of the agave from which we make tequila, for example; without bats we would have no tequila.

T he next time you slice a banana for your cereal or enjoy a mango, thank a bat. The wild stocks of these fruits are dependent upon bats for their pollination and seed dispersal.

D ates, breadfruits, cashews and figs are also dependent on bats.

C ontrary to popular belief, bats do not attack people; bats do not get tangled in people’s hair; and even vampire bats are not true vampires: vampire bats lick blood but do not suck blood.

T he majority of bat species are insectivores and frugivores; there are only three species that live on blood.

B ats rid our world of many annoying insects: in one hour, a bat can eat up to 1,000 mosquitoes.

B ats are the only mammals that can fly.

D uring flight, bats rev up their metabolic rate 15 to 16 times higher than non-flying mammals. That raises their body temperature to between 100°F and nearly 106°F (38°C to 41°C), the equivalent of a pretty high fever in humans.

T he giant golden-crowned flying fox is one of the largest bat species in the world. It is among the heaviest of all bat species, with individuals weighing up to 1.40 kg (3.1 lb). It is endemic to the Philippines and only eats fruit.

T he bumblebee bat, also known as Kitti’s hog-nosed bat, is the world’s smallest bat and the smallest mammal in the world based on skull size. Weighing in at just around 2 g, it’s so small that you might actually confuse one for a bumblebee if it went buzzing by your ear in the night.

KASANKA TIPS AND FACTS:

•B ats represent no danger to viewers.

•N o human outbreaks of

• • • • • •

coronaviruses linked to bats have occurred on the continent.

T he Kasanka bat migration is unique in the world and is of great national pride.

S traw-coloured fruit bats are frugivores, meaning they feed on fruit, not blood.

B ats are necessary to biodiversity conservation in Kasanka National Park.

B ats are an essential element of our ecosystem.

D o NOT eat bats!

D o NOT hurt bats!

TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

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LET US TAKE YOU ON YOUR ZAMBIAN SAFARI SAFARI DESTINATIONS Proflight Zambia offers scheduled flights to domestic destinations including Lusaka, Livingstone, Ndola, Mfuwe, Lower Zambezi, Solwezi, Kalabo and regional routes to Lilongwe in Malawi and to Durban and Johannesburg in South Africa.

OUR ROUTE NETWORK KEY Flight weekly/daily frequency Flight time minutes Aircraft type and seating capacity Access to/attraction Flight connections Indicative one-way ticket including taxes

NATIONAL PARKS OPERATED BY KULULA OPERATED BY PROCHARTER

MFUWE-LUSAKA Up to two daily year-round 70 mins 29-seat J41 or 56-seat Dash South Luangwa National Park Ex/to EK, ET, KQ, SA $299

LIVINGSTONE-LUSAKA Up to three daily year-round 70 mins 29-seat J41 or 56-seat Dash Victoria Falls Ex/to EK, ET, KQ $278

JEKI-LUSAKA Up to four daily 01 May - 15 Nov 35 mins 12-seat C208 Lower Zambezi National Park Ex/to EK, ET, KQ, SA $276 Operated by ProCharter

ROYAL-LUSAKA Twice daily 01 May - 31 Oct 35 mins 6-seat Islander Lower Zambezi National Park To ET, KQ, SA $216 Operated by ProCharter

Green Safaris: Love and Support in the Time of Coronavirus

GREEN SAFARIS NATURALLY UNIQUE

“

B o r n fro m a l o ve affair with Africa and an urge to empower her people, wildlife, and last remaining wild spaces.

Most governments around the world are emphasising the importance of a few small steps when it comes to fighting the COVID-19 disease: isolation, social distancing, protecting the elderly and the immunocompromised, and washing your hands as often as possible.

But these are difficult goals in much of Africa, where families often live on top of each other in very small mud huts or houses, where community is a vital part of every person’s identity, where the elders are cared for by their children and grandchildren, and where many hygiene products are a luxury rather than a necessity.

Green Safaris is a family of sustainable safari properties set in Zambia and Malawi, and this company was born from a love affair with Africa and an urge to empower her people and conserve its wildlife and last remaining wild spaces.

So now – in the absence of guests - this young, passionate company is taking steps to protect their staff and communities through the time

of coronavirus with a proactive education initiative and a delivery system for basic necessities.

Although travel is no longer an option for people around the world, and therefore no guests are making their way to the Green Safaris properties which are almost entirely closed up, this company is ensuring that their staff still have enough to live on by keeping everybody on half time. The staff members who aren’t helping with construction – and further greenification - of the properties, are also taking on the vital role of carrying out the Green Safaris Conservation Foundation’s empowerment work in the local communities.

Education Saves Lives One of the main struggles for the communities surrounding Green

Safaris properties Ila Safari Lodge, Tongabezi, Shawa Luangwa Camp, and Chisa Busanga Camp, and Kaya Mawa is that they are incredibly isolated and have little access to education or reliable news. Green Safaris is combating this in a big way by spreading information to their neighbours about Covid-19 and how best to protect themselves and their families.

The Green Teams are identifying the oldest and most vulnerable in the local villages and ensuring that they have an understanding of the situation and the support that they need.

We are explaining social distancing, isolation, and simple affordable ways to maintain hygiene standards.

Posters and flyers in multiple languages have been designed and printed by the Green Teams, who have then spread them through the

villages, schools, clinics, and social spaces near their multiple properties.

The Green Teams then headed into market areas such as the Nalusanga market in order to provide shop owners with information about the proper way to wash their stations, their hands, and even the communal taps.

The Teams have also met with local headmen to inform them about Covid-19. This meeting had the necessary precautions, which meant meeting less than 20 people at a time, always outside with no physical contact and at least 1.5 metres between each person at all times. It was a wonderful way to demonstrate to the communities that their leaders were taking this issue seriously, and the goal of the meeting was to inform the headmen about the realities of coronavirus and ask them to spread the word throughout their own villages in a safe manner.

Hygiene Necessities and the ‘Tippy-Tap’ Green Safaris have initiated a delivery system to ensure that people in their immediate surroundings have access to basic hygiene products without needing to go into town and put themselves or their family at risk.

To date, in the community of Chiefdown Kabubelwe alone over 2,500 bars of soap have been distributed by the Green Team nearest. These were distributed to each headman according to the number of households that he would be able to take them back to, and were also taken to several Health Clinics, Post offices, and Marketplaces which desperately needed hygiene supplies.

Most excitingly, Green Safaris has designed and initiated the ‘Tippy-Tap’.

Most households don’t have access to running water unless they walk to the nearest well or tap which is often kilometres away. Instead, the Green Team came up with an ingenious hand-washing system that only needs a plastic bottle, soap, rope, and sticks.

All that the villagers need to do is collect water, fill their bottle which is suspended from a tree or fence, place a small amount of soap in the bottle, and screw the lid (which has a smaller hole drilled in it) closed. Then anybody needing to wash their hands simply stands on a stick which is attached to the lid of the bottle, tilting the bottle itself down, and soapy water pours out without any cross-contamination or turning of taps.

This design has spread throughout the villages nearest to the Green Safaris properties since it can be copied by anyone and adapted to their own space or needs. The ‘Tippy-Tap’ means that every household has a chance to maintain the level of handwashing that is vital for protecting against coronavirus.

Keep On Keeping On Whilst much of the world has gone into shutdown, with shops, restaurants, markets, and all public places being forced to close, this status quo is not as maintainable in Zambia and Malawi. Many families barely live from one meal to the next, and closing their doors in order to stay safe at home is simply not an option without any food or water in the house.

Education, focussing isolation on the vulnerable, creating employment opportunities that take the necessary health and safety precautions, and ensuring access to vital hygiene products is the best way to empower and safeguard so many Zambian and Malawian communities, and Green Safaris is not shying away from doing what needs to be done.

e: marketing@greensafaris.com t: +260 976 366 054 w: greensafaris-foundation.com

 ZAMBIA | DOMESTIC TRAVEL

The River Flows On WRITER: EMMA WOOD PHOTOGRAPHY: EMMA WOOD

itting on the banks of the Kafue River my metaphorical musings brought me to this thought: that as much as humans have had to adapt, rethink and modify their behaviour through millennia, decades and very specifically, recent months, rivers too have been forced to change their course over time. They don’t just stop. They will adapt their route, meander around tougher terrain and cut through weaker rock…but they always continue onwards.

Tourism is just one of the many industries around the globe that has been severely affected by this present pandemic, but in Zambia tourism is critical. It is not only a significant and immediate source of revenue for the country, but it is also a key component in the conservation of our natural resources for future generations.

Remarkably, despite negligible international visitor arrivals into Zambia this year, we can see that our tour operators are not stopping. They, like our rivers, are adapting as best as they can in order to continue onwards.

Ian Stephenson, CEO of Conservation Lower Zambezi, explains. ‘For those of us in conservation it is a challenging time. We are facing a double-edged sword. With reduced tourism comes lower revenue for our valiant law enforcement officers and DNPW (Department of National Parks and Wildlife) rangers. Yet it is at times of hardship like these, where people have few options and need to feed their families that they may turn to criminality and poaching despite the increase in successful prosecutions. We need

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domestic tourism more than ever to help us support our wildlife protection efforts which in turn sustain the local communities.’

Over one million international visitors alone spent an estimated ZMK8 billion representing over eight per cent of the total Zambian exports. Travel and tourism was Zambia’s fastest-growing economic sector, contributing approximately ZMK20 billion in revenue and 400,000 jobs to the national economy while posting more than +6% GDP*, making it the fastest and most bullish sector in the country...until this year.

Vincent Kouwenhoven of Green Safaris has this to say. ‘We are all about travelling with a purpose and being able to contribute to conservation and community development. We are proud that we’ve

DOMESTIC TRAVEL | ZAMBIA 

always enjoyed a mix of local and international guests, and had their engagement with what we are trying to achieve. Now we endeavour to encourage more domestic tourism, as we must keep our team engaged in a broad variety of conservation and community development projects. This was and has always been our core mission, but of course we need the revenue to sustain this. As the Covid-19 pandemic continues to unfold, it is how we choose to face the challenges that will define our future. The actions we’ve taken, we believe, will reconfigure the legacy for our people and planet. As a family with family our empathy and shared sense of hope will continue to drive our efforts to ensure a safe environment for all who engage with us.’

Luckily, we—yes, that includes you there, reading this magazine while you wait for your coffee—are in a position to help. I debated over several weeks the wisdom of travelling from our highly populated cities out to the rural areas. I discussed with friends, businesses, conservationists and family dotted around the world. The answer was simply that the consequences of zero tourism—for the rural communities and wildlife—are simply devastating. So, my friend, with this hard fact in mind, I packed up my car and hit the road to Ila Lodge in the Kafue.

Of course, on arrival, we are more than pleasantly surprised with the welcome and the safety measures that have been employed: social distancing, sanitising and an adapted way of operating without diminishing service levels while still experiencing a superb safari.

Betty Chabala of Zambian Tourism Agency remarks, ‘In demonstrating the government’s commitment to this sector, His Excellency the President Mr. Edgar C. Lungu opened up all international airports for tourism and business purposes. On the other hand, the Zambia Tourism Agency will concentrate on promoting domestic travel by coming up with local incentives. This can be done by engaging operators to give attractive rates for locals and residents alike. We believe that in times such as these, domestic tourism has the potential to sustain the sector until the complete eradication of the pandemic.’

There’s so much space in the bush so it’s quite difficult to be less than two metres apart from another human being. However, everything is wiped down constantly—the game vehicles, the sun loungers, the tables and the bar. The lodges have employed hygiene training for the protection of staff and guests; temperature screening and staff monitoring; smart online check-ins and check-outs; the provision of accredited hospital-grade disinfectant; easily accessible sanitisation stations; no-touch menus (point at the chalk board), plus a frequent deep cleaning protocol—all elementary but effective safety measures.

The chalets are spread in a long line on the riverbank and there’s no sharing of bathrooms or corridors. There’s clean fresh air, wide-open spaces and reduced guest numbers—with the exception of the occasional trumpeting lunch guest, for whom you employ a whole other level of distancing!

So if you can, jump in your car, get on the bus, use our airports and see the Lower Zambezi, experience Livingstone and the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, have a picnic in Lusaka National Park, explore South Luangwa, watch the migrations in Kasanka and Liuwa— these are all incredible destinations. Go! Support our tourism, the businesses, the employees, the families and communities whose livelihoods depend on providing us a very pleasant sojourn.

Zambian lodges and campsites are trying their best to offer significantly discounted rates for long stays, last-minute bookings or mid-week specials. They need our business and quite frankly it is no hardship to settle into a luxury lodge for a few days in the name of patriotism.

So just as our rivers do and our tour operators are doing—continue on.

Don’t stay at home; instead adapt your travel, change course slightly. Zambia is a big, bold, beautiful country. Let us not wait to explore it—because Zambia needs you now. ■ *(World Travel and Tourism Council Annual Review 2018): https://www.eturbonews.com/247934/ wttc-travel-and-tourism-is-zambias-2018-fastestgrowing-national-economic-sector/

TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

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 ZAMBIA | CUISINE

EVERYTHING DIFFERENT, EVERYTHING SPECIAL WRITER: ANJA HANKE PHOTOGRAPHY: SAFARI MAGAZINE

ightness and sophistication—

two attributes that come together beautifully at Chikunto Lodge in South Luangwa National Park.

This is how modern safari cuisine at the highest level is served.

It is one of those special moments in the bush—in the evening, after the adventures of the day, when guests relax together around the campfire to review their impressive experiences, with an obligatory G&T in hand. But at Chikunto Lodge in South Luangwa National Park nothing is obligatory.

‘Our bar is unique in the region,’ says Jens Kant, not without pride. And rightly so, because the German owner of this boutique lodge is himself a connoisseur and therefore takes one or two special bottles of gin with him when he travels from Germany to his paradise on the banks of the Luangwa River.

Besides South African gins like Musgrave or ClemenGold, German craft gins and different tonics are served at this special sundowner time.

Culinary art plays an important part at Chikunto. True to the motto ‘What you love yourself, share with others’, it was clear to Jens Kant and his wife Regula, with the first thought of their own lodge, that their vision of a modern, luxurious and sustainable safari must be experienced not only in living the safari dream, but also on the plates and in the glasses of the guests.

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For many years the couple travelled through different countries in Africa, and more and more the dream of combining the love for this continent with their own demand for a lodge was formed. They found the perfect place in this animal-rich national park of Southern Africa. ‘This region offers wide-open spaces and bush at the same time, and, combined with the river, it’s an incredible combination,’ explains Jens. And a combination that they wanted to turn into a charming gem with their own ideas because it was truly their heart’s dream. They did not rely on an

TRAVEL & LEISURE | ISSUE 17 | NOVEMBER 2020–APRIL 2021

CUISINE | ZAMBIA  BIOGRAPHY: ANJA HANKE

In her youth, Anja Hanke fell in love with Africa. But, at that time, she only got to know it by reading books.

However, her first trip to Kenya over 15 years ago reassured her that this love was real. Since then she hasn´t stopped travelling throughout this beautiful and diverse continent, discovering all its facets. She is the publisher and editor of the African Magazine—a high-class publication that twice a year presents the most beautiful aspects of Africa to readers in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The next issue will be published in spring 2021, after a corona break.

For further information contact: anja@african-mag.com

anonymous company to build the lodge. They did it themselves—together with the nearby villagers.

During construction they were looking for suitable chefs for the future lodge.

Again, the villagers contacted the lodge owners and cooked for them for a whole day. Four potential cooks remained, who were trained by South African professional chef and consultant, Nicola Brydon. ‘It was important to my wife and me that the food at Chikunto followed the design motto,’ says Jens Kant. In other words, less is more and heavy food is sought in vain here, skilfully replaced by lightness and sophistication. You can put together your own box of delicacies for the morning break in the bush; and for lunch there are salads, cold soups and fresh desserts. Tea time— in addition to sweet delicacies—is also accompanied by hearty snacks. The menu in the evening thrives on variety, freshness and regional ingredients.

‘Most of the people who helped us build the lodge still work here today. They are the best ambassadors and give our guests a wonderful feeling of home,’ states Jens Kant. But those who he could not take over also play an important role.

‘We have helped them to build gardens and thus obtain a part of our vegetables and fruit.’ A wonderful cycle that not only guarantees the importance of freshness and quality, but also adds value to the region.

The excellent dishes served at Chikunto are accompanied by fine wines from South Africa‘s wine region in the Cape. Here, too, Jens Kant, whose wife very sadly died shortly after the opening in 2018 and in whose memory he continues Chikunto— their common dream— attaches great importance to something special. ‘Even our house wine is exquisite.’ One thing is clear—Chikunto doesn‘t do things by halves. ■

www.chikunto.com

+ 260 969307286 +260 968975964 lskcollective.op@gmail.com

 ZIMBABWE | PHOTO SAFARIS

Highlights from Photo Safaris WITH EDWARD SELFE

In this series, we publish extracts from trip reports of photo safaris led by Edward Selfe, in the South Luangwa. The full reports, with many more photos, can be found at www.edwardselfephotosafaris.com The following is an extract from a photo safari, this time in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe, with Robin Pope Safaris.

he next day turned out to be one of the most memorable that I have had on safari. We heard the tell-tale sounds of wild dogs twittering in the distance so we decided to approach. Generally dogs make that highpitched twittering noise when they are socialising or when they are harassing prey. As we got closer, and I began to resolve the situation, I could barely believe what was unfolding in front of us...wild dogs were surrounding an eland…but wait, is that an eland calf as well...?

I love both eland and wild dogs so for me this was something special. But while I was excited, my overwhelming feeling was that this was an extremely sensitive situation. As far as we could assess, there was an eland cow, with her very young calf, surrounded by a pack of nine wild dogs. This was equally thrilling, horrifying, exciting and confusing. How had

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the eland become separated from the protection of the herd? Were the dogs going for the calf or the cow? How long had this been going on?

We stood in the sun exactly where we had arrived, watching from about 200 metres away as the dogs circled the eland and her calf. We could see that the dogs had already removed one of the calf ’s ears. And when the female’s back was turned the dogs would rush in and grab

PHOTO SAFARIS | ZIMBABWE 

the calf, but immediately drop it when the cow threatened them with her horns.

Carefully we settled ourselves in a suitable shady place where we could watch without affecting events. At that point, I had time to think about the circumstances that might have led up to this moment.

Like many antelope, eland will usually separate from their herd to give birth. This protects the calf in its very early days from the predators that are drawn to the movements of a large herd. The calf that we were watching was very young and still had a drying umbilical cord attached so was likely no more than a few days old. We suspected that the dogs had happened across the pair by chance and had shown extra interest in the calf due to its young age and the drought conditions prevailing in Mana Pools at the time. The cow would have been weak and would likely have produced insufficient milk which might have been a contributing factor.

However, whether there was any weakness in the calf and/or the mother, once dogs have identified their prey and begun to hunt, there is little that will stop their relentless pursuit.

As time wore on, we became increasingly affected by the scene in front of us. Wild dogs are usually quick and fairly effective hunters. Of course there are exceptions, but a pack of nine dogs would chase down and dispatch a small antelope (such as this eland calf) in a few moments with minimal suffering. The irony was that the protection of the mother, with her

large horns, was making it harder for the dogs to complete their kill. Of course, there was no doubting the cow’s good intentions; she was going to protect her calf whatever it took.

But as the calf became weaker and weaker, it was clear that the dogs would prevail in the end. It was gruelling to watch the female’s attempts to protect her calf, particularly as we had the perspective to know that they were futile. While the dogs waited in the shade, she stood heroically over her calf, shading it from the sun. Had she walked away and left the calf, we assumed that the dogs would have ended its suffering in moments.

Should we have stayed to watch? We talked about this in depth during the time we were there. We were having no impact on the scene, which was my first concern. The eland stopped observing us soon after we arrived and the dogs never looked towards us. So, it was a question of whether we wanted to stay. At times we all felt sickened by the situation; we even talked about the ethics of moving closer, thereby scaring the eland cow away, and allowing the dogs to complete the inevitable. Of course, we were only talking hypothetically as we would never intervene in that way...but we wanted to, that’s for sure.

Then something changed. The eland became too hot standing in the sun and wandered unsteadily to the shade. As she reached the shade, the dogs rose and moved towards the calf. With their brutal but effective style the dogs killed the calf and ended a savage course of events. To say we were relieved would have been an understatement. But we were also exhausted. Our role in these events is to first avoid impacting the course of things and thereafter to record and document, or simply to watch. This was nature at its

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 ZIMBABWE | PHOTO SAFARIS

most unpleasant...and I think that is the right word. Dogs are much maligned for their cruelty, which is unfounded in my (relatively experienced) view. But without meaning to be cruel, the dogs had subjected this eland and her calf to terrible suffering.

Once the calf had died, the fragility of the situation was much reduced. The dogs were not interested in the eland cow, and the cow was unlikely to endure any greater suffering than she already had. So we moved for the first time in about three hours, and chose a new position under a log pile with the light behind us. Even though they had killed the calf, the eland cow had again chased the dogs off the carcass and was licking the wounds. But her actions then changed and she began to eat. I wasn’t sure at first, but studying carefully, I caught images of her taking flesh into her mouth and then chewing. This seemed pretty unusual but, in drought conditions, animals will often change their behaviour to survive. And in fact, eating a newborn calf is not a far stretch from eating the placenta after the birth. The more I thought about it, the more sense it made; out of a terrible situation, natural instinct was driving this eland to recover whatever nourishment she could from the calf that she had spent months growing inside her.

While we are not supposed to take sides in nature, and I rarely do, it would be fair to say that we had felt more acutely the suffering of the eland, than the suffering of the dogs who were being denied a timely meal! But this latest development changed things. What had been a scene of unbearable cruelty was morphing into a scene of regeneration. The eland was taking charge of the situation and was recovering something from her loss. One could say that she was reclaiming her dignity, but having watched her protect that calf for hours in the midday sun, I would say that she retained that throughout. As I have mentioned before, the irony was that in being the best mother that nature could design, the cow had inadvertently brought terrible suffering on her youngster.

The dogs continued to circle and, at one stage, the exhausted predators and exhausted cow were feeding together on either end of the carcass. This was incredible viewing but, for me, the sighting had lost its intensity. The battle had been between the eland’s resolve to protect her calf and the dogs’ determination to feed; despite incredible resilience from

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the most majestic of all antelope, the dogs had won out in the end...as we knew that they surely would.

As the sun began to drop, the dogs captured the whole carcass from the exhausted antelope and fed hungrily as if they had caught it moments before.

Only those of us who had been there throughout knew the full story and the heroism that had led to this moment.

Kicking up dust and battling through the strong afternoon wind, the dogs dragged the carcass away and the eland eventually gave up her claim to the calf.

There are many memories from that day, but the strongest image for me is the sight of that beautiful eland cow standing defiantly over the body of her calf. That resonates very strongly with me, not for the emotional impact—though that too—but because she represents the driving motivation at the very core of the natural world: the desire to survive, to breed and to ensure the survival of your offspring. This eland cow didn’t manage this time round, but she gave everything she could in trying. ■

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WINE | ZIMBABWE 

WHITE VARIETIES

Wine CORNER WRITER: HOMER PHOTOGRAPHY: SAFARI MAGAZINE, FREEPIK.COM

Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Pinot Grigio Riesling

BLACK VARIETIES Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Pinot Noir Syrah/Shiraz

SPARKLING WINE The most popular is Champagne which is a term that can only be used for sparkling wine produced in the Champagne region of France. Sparkling wine is also made in other regions and takes on different names notably Prosecco (Italy), Cava (Spain) and Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) from South Africa.

ROSÉ WINE ot very many beverages can be as intriguing and full of mystery as wine.

So much has been written about wine in competing volumes as to what is consumed...and the thirst for more knowledge never stops. There is a wine for every occasion. And have you ever noticed how wine drinkers hold their glasses elegantly? This is certainly a beverage that sets you apart at a social scene and it is even better when you can talk about the wines with authority.

To understand wine, like any beverage, the three principle stages of life must be understood.

• Their origins and the ingredients that go towards making them • Their refinement in the bottle and the name they then bear • Their selection for use and their care

Rosé is made from grapes that have the black skin typically left overnight or for short periods to create the light colouring.

WHITE WINE This can be made from the white or black grape (skin is pressed lightly for black grapes).

RED WINE Red wine is made from the black grape with the skins left on in the fermentation process.

WHAT THEN IS WINE?

FORTIFIED WINE

‘Wine is the alcoholic beverage made from the fermentation of the juice of freshly gathered grapes with the fermentation taking place in the district of origin according to local tradition and practice’, or, simply put, fermented grape juice!

These are wines to which alcohol is added, popular varieties being sherry and port.

This starts your journey towards understanding wine and identifying the varieties on that shelf when you walk along that aisle, albeit a short journey, but full of promise and expectation all in the bottle.

Until that next glass, may the vine be with you… ■

ORIGINS The origin of wine, according to history, dates back to the slopes of Mount Ararat where the first vines flourished. It is mentioned frequently in the Bible, and Egyptian wall paintings show the stages of wine production, with its uses in religion continuing to this day. We must credit the Greeks for bringing wine to the people— this was once a preserve of kings and gods— as they initiated the first real export of wines, now consumed globally centuries later.

To understand wine we begin with the famous grape that creates the wine. Grapes grow on a bush called a vine which can live for 60 years and beyond. Vines are influenced by latitude, altitude, water bodies around them, air, water vapour, mountains, slopes, soil and weather. Thus, the complexity and maturing to make a fine wine starts with the elements…sometimes not withholding pure luck in some years.

The different grape varieties lend themselves to different wines, and the method of production also determines what category each wine is known by for each occasion or pairing. We start by identifying the main grape varieties of white and black grapes before moving on to wine types.

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 ZIMBABWE | BULAWAYO

My Bulawayo SHERINE ANNE TAYLOR’S GUIDE TO THE CITY WRITER: SWAHILI COAST FOODI BLOG PHOTOGRAPHY: BANFF LODGE, THE ORANGE ELEPHANT SHOP, AMALINDA SAFARI COLLECTION

he Bulawayo-born events and social media consultant, Sherine Anne Taylor, is perfectly placed to offer a fascinating insight into Zimbabwe’s second largest city. Bulawayo, in south-west Zimbabwe, is known by many tourists as the gateway to the Matopos (Matobo) National Park, but Sherine encourages visitors to spend some time in the city to discover its rich culture, great food, fascinating history and exciting events.  WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT BULAWAYO? There is a really strong sense of family and ‘village’ within the Bulawayo community so visitors will definitely feel that friendly spirit when they visit.  WHAT ARE THE BEST PLACES TO TAKE A VISITOR? My favourite place is the Matopos (also called Matobo) National Park some 35 kilometres south of Bulawayo where a ‘must see’ are the white and black rhinos. I also love the Bulawayo (or National) Railway Museum for all its history and the really incredible manager/curator Gordon Murray, who is a wealth of knowledge and has many fascinating facts to share about the railways and trains of Zimbabwe—and beyond!  WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE VIEW? World’s View (also called Malindidzimu Hill) in the Matopos (Matobo) National Park is the best for me. There are incredible views from here and it is also a site of spiritual significance for the indigenous Ndebele people This is the burial place of Cecil John Rhodes, the 19th-century imperialist after whom Rhodesia was named.  WHAT ACTIVITY DO YOU MOST ENJOY? I’m a passionate foodie person so I enjoy trying out new places to eat. Of course a great place to start any foodie exploration of Bulawayo is Banff Lodge, well-known for its awesome food, good wine and great atmosphere. It’s also a really great place to stay if you are exploring the area.

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 WHAT LOCAL DISHES/FOOD IS THE REGION KNOWN FOR? These are some of the local dishes you might like to try: umxhanxa—maize and a melon mixed together with sugar; samp mixed with peanut butter; cooked maize, groundnuts and round nut; perhaps even amathumbu— cows’ intestines—and the really adventurous might like to sample dried mopane worm, a dish known as amacimbi.

 ANY LOCAL TRADITIONAL DRINKS? Umqomboti is a beer made from maize and sorghum.  WHAT’S BULAWAYO’S BEST KEPT SECRET? My first choice would be the National Art Gallery, an amazing hub of creativity and culture that is often overlooked. Similarly, visitors should discover the Bulawayo drumming group, Drums of Peace, who are famous for their interactive drumming.

Many visitors might not have heard of the Bulawayo Arts Awards (officially titled Roil Bulawayo Arts Awards) that recognise the talents of local artists in the city and wider Matabeleland North and South. The event is packed with great performances and should have taken place on 29 August of this year but was cancelled. Also, the Spar Bonsa Cancer Walk is a fun event in aid of

BULAWAYO | ZIMBABWE   FAVOURITE SHOP? The Orange Elephant. It’s the best place to find really authentic crafts or souvenirs as it supports talented Zimbabwean craftsmen and women.

those suffering with the condition and is held every year in September. The 7.6-kilometre event involves running, walking and cycling around the Hillside area of Bulawayo. The Hillside Dams Festive Art and Craft Fair is an exciting bi-annual showcase for artists and craftsmen from around the country.

ANY SPECIAL EVENTS DURING THE YEAR? The PPC Matopos Marathon is a 33-miler ultramarathon held annually. The Dwala Health and Fitness Fair and Fun Walk to raise funds for children with cancer takes places alongside a family fun day featuring live entertainment, fitness activities and team sports. The Intwasa Arts Festival koBulawayo is an amazing multi-disciplinary arts festival that brings together dance, theatre, music, film, literary arts, visual arts, spoken word and fashion within one platform.

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 MOST INTERESTING BUILDINGS? The National Art Gallery and the Bulawayo Club because they are filled with so much history connected to Bulawayo. Big Bhawa (Big Bar), one of the biggest bars in the country, is an intriguing place located in Makokoba which is the oldest township and the first black African suburb in Bulawayo; it is a really historical place. The Nesbitt Castle, located in the suburbs of Bulawayo, is a quirky 19th-century, Gothic-style building that is now a boutique hotel (but currently under refurbishment).  WHAT IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT? Bulawayo has incredible weather all year round. My favourite time of the year is mid-spring (October–November) to summer because this is the time the jacaranda trees bloom and decorate our city like a bride before her wedding. ■

www.swahilicoastfoodie.com

 ZIMBABWE | ELEPHANT ENCOUNTER

Elephant ENCOUNTER

WRITER: JESSICA WHITE PHOTOGRAPHY: WILD HORIZONS Elephants are an embodiment of Africa. They cover themselves in Earth’s red soil. Their wrinkled skin is like a map of trails through the wilderness. A sense of tranquillity encompasses them, yet we never doubt the power and strength they will call upon when necessary. When we protect elephants, we are protecting an inherent and beautiful part of this wild continent.

THE WILD HORIZONS ELEPHANT SANCTUARY The elephants walk with casual purpose, muscles rolling and rippling beneath their thick grey skin. Never do they stop interacting through low rumbles and gentle touches. It is hard to imagine that these elephants, with such distinct family bonds, were once orphaned. That Jumbo, who wears his confidence like a second skin, was once a small, distressed calf whose future hung in the balance. But he was, just as they all were. This is the story of the Wild Horizons Elephant Sanctuary and the gentle giants who found a haven here.

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During the drought between 1984 and 1986, the elephant population in Hwange National Park had exceeded the park’s carrying capacity. As part of their management plan, the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority proceeded with what they called the grim but essential decision to cull 2,000

ELEPHANT ENCOUNTER | ZIMBABWE 

elephants to improve the survival chances of other wildlife. Many baby elephants were left orphaned in the process, some of which were transported to nearby farms, where in time they outgrew the land they were living on and once again were in desperate need of a new home. With an unwavering conservation ethos, Wild Horizons was identified as the ideal candidate to take care of the the orphaned elephants. Jumbo, Jock, Jack and Miz Ele, fondly known as the ‘Founding Four’, were brought to the private concession owned

by Wild Horizons and slowly the rescuerehabilitate-release process began.

Since it opened its doors to elephants in need, the sanctuary has been a safe space for dozens of injured and abandoned elephants and a stepping-stone on their way back into the wild. When the sanctuary started, Wild Horizons could not have imagined the extent it would play in elephant conservation. However, as elephants continue to face persecution in the wild, it is imperative that an ethical, professional and experienced team of caretakers is available to provide them with the care and medical attention they need. The origin, challenges, success and release programme are detailed in an enthralling and moving documentary shown to guests who visit the sanctuary.

Guests are then given the opportunity to spend time observing the elephants in their natural environment.

This non-intrusive encounter symbolises just how well conservation and tourism can work together. Seeing the elephants grazing, swimming or just ambling through the bush inspires an affinity with nature that connects guests to the gentle giants.

The bond between the herd is an almost tangible force, a golden thread weaving them together. Scientifically, this can be explained by an elephant’s well-developed temporal lobe that gives it the ability to be self-aware and to have empathy for others. But on an emotional level, as orphans themselves, they seem to understand the need to provide comfort and support to an elephant that feels alone and afraid. Though their love was born from tragic circumstances, the sanctuary and the Wild Horizons team have given them a beautiful life.

Elephants are classified as a ‘Vulnerable’ species on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List. The difference between ‘Endangered’ and ‘Vulnerable’ is subtle, but essentially it has to do with a species’ chances of survival.

‘Endangered’ species have a risk of going extinct in the not-too-distant future, while ‘Vulnerable’ species, such as elephant, have enough numbers left to give us time to intervene and save them. The Wild Horizons Elephant Sanctuary is doing just that.

As well as the educational encounters offered to tourists, Wild Horizons also reaches the future decision makers and custodians of the environment. Annually, over 1,000 children from local schools visit the sanctuary where they learn about this keystone species and observe them in the wild. This grass roots education initiative seeks to change perspectives and encourages a harmonious existence between humans and wildlife.

Additionally, the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust (formerly the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust) is located on the same property, where a team of conservationists and scientists conducts research, facilitates the rescue and rehabilitation of injured animals, and runs the only wildlife disease and forensics laboratory in the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA).

From humble beginnings, the sanctuary is now widely recognised as a key player in the conservation of the African elephant and shows us how, through dedicated, compassionate initiatives, tourism and conservation can work together with great success. ■

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 ZIMBABWE | DOMESTIC TOURISM

Tourism DOMESTIC

WRITER: MAKHOSI NCUBE PHOTOGRAPHY: SCOTT RAMSAY

ever have the words ‘Charity begins at home’ made more sense than when talking about domestic tourism. They apply to both the consumer and supplier; from the seller’s side it’s about getting people to spend more at home to see the amazing sights before travelling outside the country, while from the consumer’s side it’s about getting world class service at affordable prices.

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Interestingly, Zimbabwe was rated third best travel destination in the world in 2019 by one of the most popular travel guides, Lonely Planet, making it the only African country in the top ten. On a bigger scale this would mean the international market

DOMESTIC TOURISM | ZIMBABWE 

would be flocking to visit—but what of the locals?

Studies have continuously shown that domestic tourism is much more important as it’s not prone to suffering from seasonality, perceived security threats and changing airline schedules. Most importantly, locals would purchase more locally produced goods than international visitors. Zimbabwe’s biggest source of employment is tourism and as such is an important reason why domestic tourism must thrive, bridging that seasonal gap and providing steady employment.

Where have we gone wrong? Marketing is where we lost the plot; so many of the facilities are priced out of reach for the everyday locals and the majority of the people have no idea what their very own

country has to offer. The easiest way to make this affordable is by having lower prices for locals, especially during the quiet season when tourism is at its lowest.

More people visit from outside the country than from within, and while economic problems may be said to be the cause, it’s much bigger than that. Lots of Zimbabweans travel, just not within the country, and for most, besides Victoria Falls, they have no idea of what other places can be visited. This is the main problem to be addressed—how to successfully get the word out. The solution is simple: social media.

With international travel being shut down due to the recent Covid-19 pandemic, we have seen an increase in domestic tourism resulting in the everyday Zimbabwean being able to see the beauty of this country. This is mainly because social media has got involved, and with most people spending time online due to the shutdown, word has spread and taken off like a rocket, with the majority of people acknowledging they had no idea about what local destinations they had. It’s been beautiful and amazing to see families and also the young people actively travelling and seeing what their country has to offer. Finally there is light at the end of the tunnel.

So for those with a taste for the wilderness we have a UNESCO heritage site in the form of Mana Pools National Park, the only park that allows visitors to walk without guides escorting them—just you and nature.

For the aspiring fisherman we have Lake Kariba, a place where you can cement your legacy by catching some of the biggest tiger fish in the world; or better yet go on a house boat and live life on the lake with sunsets to die for.

For those of us who love history no place beats Great Zimbabwe, a city unlike any other, ancient yet majestic, one of the most spiritual places to go to and see how Africa achieved its very own civilisation as early as the eleventh century.

Then we go to one of Africa’s biggest national parks, Hwange, home to an astounding 400 bird species and over 100 mammal species, famed for its majestic elephant herds numbering over an estimated 40,000. Take a walk with some of Africa’s most amazing guides to track these gentle giants.

Last but definitely not least, it’s the crown jewel of Zimbabwean tourism, a favourite for all our locals—the majestic Victoria Falls. For locals, this year it’s been the most amazing moment as they got to see it at its highest peak in over a decade, a sight that had us standing in awe just like Dr. David Livingstone must have done when he first discovered the Falls. It truly is ‘The Smoke that Thunders’ as it is locally known. ■

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 ZIMBABWE | ZAMBEZI RIVER

Fishing

the Zambezi

WHERE TO CATCH THE ACTION IN ZIMBABWE WRITER: WILD ZAMBEZI PHOTOGRAPHY: TIGER SAFARIS, SPURWING ISLAND, FINS FISHING SAFARIS, TAFIKA FISHING SAFARIS

he hot spring-summer months of September, October and November provide the best sport-fishing along the Zambezi River—especially for those wanting to pit their strength and skill against the fierce-fighting African tiger fish.

The wonderful, wild stretches of this river, a shared border between Zambia and Zimbabwe (including the inland sea of Lake Kariba), have become a favourite for sport-fishermen and women from all over the world.

They also provide excellent opportunities for recreational fishing holidays and family getaways. This isn’t surprising—for two main reasons.

Firstly, this part of Southern Africa has one of the best climates in the world. During the best fishing months, the sun shines every day and a cool breeze on the river or the lake cools the heat as daytime temperatures rise. Evenings are balmy and sublime.

Secondly, much of the Zambezi River frontage (especially within Zimbabwe) lies within wilderness and wildlife areas which are protected either as national parks or protected safari areas. So, while you are out enjoying your fishing in the best climate in the world, you can also have the most wonderful wildlife sightings.

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THE FISH OF THE ZAMBEZI

The African tiger fish (Hydrocynus vittatus) is a voracious predator which attacks with vigour, hence the huge, sharp teeth, and this makes for exciting sport. They prey mainly on other fish, but there are records of them jumping out of the water after swallows passing in flight! Their beautiful, heavily-scaled, silvery bodies are strongly marked with horizontal black stripes and their fins are a deep orange-red colour.

They are usually caught using live bait or lures, but are increasingly sought after by experienced fly-fishing enthusiasts. As they grow larger, these fish are difficult to land

ZAMBEZI RIVER | ZIMBABWE 

because of their aggressive nature and sharp teeth, but they are also extremely sensitive, and may die if not carefully handled and quickly released after catching.

In line with current ecological trends, most of the sport-fishing along the Zambezi and on Lake Kariba is carried out on Catch and Release principles. There are some very useful conservation guidelines produced by the Lower Zambezi Catch and Release Initiative which also provides advice on how to minimise the injuries caused to fish by hooks.

For more information see: www.wildtracks-zambia.com

Apart from the well-known tiger fish, the Zambezi areas are known for other fantastic catches.The vundu (Heterobranchus longifilis) is a large species of catfish found widely in rivers and other freshwater habitats of sub-Saharan Africa, including Lake Kariba. Vundu are a protected species and so they, too, are caught on a Catch and Release only basis. These monsters can reach up to 1.5 metres (5 feet) in length and up to 55 kilograms (121 pounds) in weight, and require considerable strength and effort to land.

There are a number of other sport species to be caught in the Zambezi River including Cornish jack (Mormyrops

anguilloides) and nkupe (Distichodus mossambicus). The eastern bottlenose (Mormyrus longirostris) which has an elongated snout and a tiny mouth is a popular catch during the rainy season months (December through April).

And of course there are others, including several species of catfish, the

most common being the African sharptooth catfish (Clarias gariepinus) locally known as ‘barbel’, and many species of freshwater bream. Also tilapia, which are delicious to eat and extremely popular with fishing enthusiasts of all ages, especially on Lake Kariba.

FISHING WITH THE CHILDREN Learning how to fish can be one of the most rewarding and enjoyable outdoor experiences for children. There are plenty of family-friendly options along the Zambezi in Zimbabwe for youngsters to learn to fish with their parents and/or an experienced and patient fishing guide.

SO...WHERE TO GO TO CATCH SOME OF THIS FISHING ACTION? Upstream of the Victoria Falls, there’s good tiger fishing in the wide, calm stretches of the Zambezi River near the ‘four corners’ border at Kazungula, as well as further down along the shores of Zimbabwe’s Zambezi National Park where there are several safari camps which provide fishing as an activity. Unfortunately, illegal netting from the heavily populated Zambian shore opposite these protected areas has impacted on fish populations and stronger conservation measures are required.

The area below the Zambezi River gorges downstream of the Victoria Falls is very popular for fishing (all species)—with a wide variety of specialised fishing camps around in the Sidinda, Deka Mouth and Msuna Island area, before the river flows into Lake Kariba. In the upper (western) reaches of the lake, Mlibizi and Binga are both centres of fishing and boating activity.

Lake Kariba is well known for its sport fishing. The annual Kariba Invitation Tiger Fishing Tournament, held every year in October, has long been an extremely popular event on the angling calendar, attracting teams from all over the world. For recreational fishing and family fun, it is hard to beat a few days aboard one of Lake Kariba’s houseboats. The staff on board these comfortable cruising vessels are often experienced fishermen and are happy to share their skills. In and around the Matusadona National Park on the lake’s southern shore there are a number of safari camps which offer fishing as a major activity and almost all have experienced fishing guides.

But it’s not all about tourism. Indeed fishing is a way of life for many people living along Lake Kariba’s shores. The Tonga people who fished the Zambezi before the dam was constructed in the 1950s now depend on the lake’s abundant fish resources for their livelihoods. The introduction of the small Lake Tanganyika sardine (locally known as

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 ZIMBABWE | ZAMBEZI RIVER

kapenta) to Lake Kariba in the 1960s provided a thriving commercial fishing industry which employs many local people in the area, as does the more recently introduced commercial bream farm at Kariba.

In the narrow gorge below the Kariba Dam wall, the Zambezi’s rocky terrain with fast-flowing waters provides excellent fly-fishing opportunities and the wider stretches towards the border town of Chirundu and beyond are very popular with tiger fishermen.

A number of fishing camps dot the shores of both sides of the river at this point, the area between Chirundu and Mongwe being particularly rewarding for fishing by boat on the Zimbabwean side.

The use of motorboats is restricted on the Zimbabwean bank of the Zambezi River in the vicinity of Mana Pools National Park (although bank fishing is permitted), so most serious anglers choose to fish the Zambezi from a variety of safari camps with boat launching facilities further downstream in the Sapi and Chewore areas.

A relatively new multi-day river-based boating safari, which runs between Chirundu and Kanyemba, is an alternative and adventurous option which is proving extremely popular with angling families. Together with Mana Pools, Sapi and Chewore form Zimbabwe’s largest, protected, UNESCO World Heritage Site area. And, since Zambia’s

Lower Zambezi National Park lies right opposite, the protection of species is high and the fishing and wildlife viewing here is superb. ■ IF YOU’D LIKE MORE INFORMATION about where to go to get the best fishing along the Zambezi in Zimbabwe, the Wild Zambezi travel information website provides searchable listings for specialist fishing opportunities and camps all along the Zambezi River.

Visit: www.wildzambezi.com

VICTORIA FALLS TOWN | ZIMBABWE 

reasons TO VISIT VICTORIA FALLS TOWN

WRITER: INNOCENT QAPHELA MUKUTE PHOTOGRAPHY: WILD HORIZONS, THE VICTORIA FALLS HOTEL, ILALA LODGE, AFRICA ALBIDA TOURISM, DUSTY ROADS, MATETSI VICTORIA FALLS

he mystical splendour of the mighty Zambezi’s tumbling cascade into the depths of a ‘gorge-ous’ ravine is a majestic beauty like no other on the face of the planet. The massive splash from the waterfall creates a spray that rises up to half a kilometre into the sky and can be seen as far as 40 kilometres away.

And when the golden rays of the African sun caress the mist of ‘The Smoke that Thunders’, the most dazzling rainbows illuminate the sky. World-famous 19th-century travel blogger David Livingstone described it thus, ‘...scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight’.

Behold—this is the world-famous Mosi-oa-Tunya, ‘The Smoke that Thunders’, otherwise known as the Victoria Falls. This has become more than just an abode of wondrous beauty; it is has earned its place as Africa’s adventure capital with endless possibilities for travel enthusiasts like you and I. Forget what you have heard about not chasing waterfalls and allow your wanderlust to lead you to Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. As the world re-opens to travel, here are 20 reasons why Victoria Falls is a destination you will love in 2020 and beyond.

1. TOUR OF THE RAINFOREST In about two hours or so, get soaked in the mist of ‘The Smoke that Thunders’, the Mosi-Oa-Tunya, aka Victoria Falls. Forget what you have heard about this being ‘down to a trickle’ because this is still the biggest waterfall on Earth, and it is beyond breathtaking. If you don’t believe in love at first sight that’s all right because there are 17 viewing points to wow you over on the Zimbabwean side alone. If you cross over to Livingstone on the Zambian side, there are more. During the low season some viewing points like ‘The Horseshoe’ often dry up, while viewpoints like ‘The Main Falls’ remain indomitable throughout the year—this has been happening since time immemorial. The low season is somewhere between September and December with the lowest daily flow recorded normally in October at around 30,000 litres per second, normally just before the rainy season arrives. High season is somewhere between March and July, with the highest daily flow recorded normally in May/June at around 2.1 million litres per second. As if to show off, Mother Nature

has turned the flora beneath the spray into a flourishing rainforest that has become a paradise through which thousands of tourists from around the world stroll to see the Falls.

2. SUNDOWNERS ON THE ZAMBEZI I can’t imagine a better way to marvel at the dazzling African sunsets than aboard a Zambezi sunset cruise. I will never forget watching the mighty Zambezi kindled into sumptuous colour by the glorious rays of the setting sun as I sipped sundowners. An elephant browsing on an island facing the jetty as we boarded was the grand opening to our sunset cruise. Once our captain got the engine roaring, we cruised towards the island and enjoyed a close-up view of this giant mammal. An open bar is standard for a sunset cruise and drinks flow as you motor along. So what else did we see on this island? Two giraffes, so within a few minutes of cruising we’d already seen the biggest and the tallest land mammals. It was our lucky day for sure. With an estimated

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 ZIMBABWE | VICTORIA FALLS TOWN

chitenge (African print cloth) you are adorned with when you arrive, and the drum each person is given for the show, provide the Midas touch for immersing everyone in the experience and putting them in sync with the enchanting rhythm of African sounds and the delightful splendour of African cuisine.

4. GAME DRIVE

400 bird species living in these parts of the Zambezi, bird lovers were glued to their binoculars, taking in as much of this paradise as they could. Then, as we watched the dance between the enchanting golden rays of the setting sun and the calming waters of the Zambezi kick in, a herd of buffalo rocked up for a sundowner.

Talking of sundowners, it was now time to order my last one because our adventure was coming to an end...how time flies when you are having so much fun.

3. THE BOMA–DINNER & DRUM SHOW (VICTORIA FALLS SAFARI LODGE) The Boma exudes a royal splendour reminiscent of the great African empires of yesteryear. Dining here felt like I was at a banquet in the royal courtyards of Mansa Musa (of Mali), Queen Nzinga (of Angola), King Mzilikazi (of the Matabele) or in the great enclosure at Great Zimbabwe. The architecture, design, aesthetics and décor bring the grandeur of historic African finesse into the 21st century. There’s so much on the menu, starting off with a welcome traditional drink before diving into the mother of all buffets, with countless options, from starters through the main course and all the way to dessert. With over 10 meat dishes, mostly game, this is every carnivore’s wildest dream! There are lots of greens and vegetarian options in the mix, too. The drum show is the crowning experience, putting this package as the foremost dining experience in Victoria Falls. When the drum show roars to life, you are more than spectators...you are the show. Led and choreographed by a skilful African dance ensemble, the dozens, often hundreds, of participants at this spectacle drum and dance the night away. The

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If game is what you came for, then Victoria Falls will drive you wild! Located right in the middle of the Zambezi National Park, a game drive is literally a few minutes away from your hotel...30 minutes at most. Bring your cameras and selfie sticks because you will be spoilt for choice as the Zambezi National Park is home to hundreds of animal species including elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, cheetah, giraffe, zebra and several antelope. Game drives are normally at sunrise or sunset when most animals trek to and from their watering spots, which your guide will know about. The rainy season (somewhere between mid-December and February) reduces your chances of spotting game significantly because with plenty of water sources the animals retreat into the depths of the wilderness. Are you ready for that African safari you have always dreamed of ? Victoria Falls is ready to give you the picture-perfect African safari...and more. In fact Victoria Falls has been featured as one of the top 10 horseback safari destinations in Africa, so that’s also a great option to explore.

5. WILD WATER RAFTING Conquering the meanest and wildest white-water rafting in the world in nothing but a rubber raft was truly epic! This was no doubt the most adrenaline-charged day of my life, because throughout the 28-kilometre adventure we encountered a total of 21 exhilarating rapids. There was barely time to blink; it almost felt like being Jack Bauer in the television series 24. But just as my team mates and I were thinking we were the main actors, the mighty Zambezi pulled a fast one and the entire raft flipped. But after a somewhat turbulent swim, plus a few gulps of Zambezi water and some help from the rafting crew, we were back on our raft. The life jackets were really what kept us afloat and it now made sense as to why our captain had made sure they were fitting tightly. We managed to steer through the rapids, but the greatest test of our mettle awaited us at rapid 18 where, as the last raft of eight, we had seen only two make it unscathed—the rest had flipped.

When we made it to the other side without an involuntary swim I felt as though I had scored the winning header in Munich. Unlike footballer Didier Drogba though, there were no fans awaiting my autograph, but thank goodness there was quite a feast prepared for us to replenish our energy, as well as ice-cold drinks to fend off the treacherous afternoon heat. From checking in, through safety drills, the rafting and finally lunch, my experience was nothing short of legendary.

6. THE ELEPHANT EXPERIENCE Everyone planning a safari hopes to see the Big Five, but what if I told you that you could spend an afternoon chilling with the biggest of them all? Sounds great, right? The grandeur of the African elephant can be intimidating but once you get to know them better, you will be fascinated by how intelligent and amazing these gentle giants are. On arrival at Wild Horizons Wildlife Sanctuary, you are taken through the brief history of the place, learn some interesting facts about elephants and are briefed on the safety guidelines for the tour. The story is an interesting one because this is a sanctuary for

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VICTORIA FALLS TOWN | ZIMBABWE 

orphaned elephants, many of which were orphaned when herds were culled by the Department of National Parks in the early nineties as part of the population management programme. It didn’t therefore come as a surprise to see the strong bond that was evident between the elephants and the team of guides, many of whom had been caretakers of these elephants from a tender age. After the introductory talk, the conservation safari began by spotting elephants in the nearby bushes. We then spent time with the elephants in the bush as they went about their browsing business, while learning from the guides about the elephants and their individual personalities. Then it was time for ‘lights, cameras and selfies’ as we had the amazing opportunity to get so close on foot. It was a constant learning experience. For example, I learnt that Simangele, the youngest in the crew, breast-fed, not just from his mother but also from his aunt who also had a calf. A little fracas was going on, but Coco, the matriarch and elephant-in-charge, had everything under control. After our elephant encounter was over we were treated to drinks and snacks while the herd disappeared into the blue.

7. GORGE SWING In this part of the world, flying without wings is more than just a metaphor if you are an adrenaline junkie; it’s an experience waiting to be lived. The following is what I wrote after my jump in June, 2019. ‘They say life isn’t about the number of breaths you take, but it’s about the number of moments that take your breath away. Taking the gorge swing gave me a double dose of breath-taking as I took a 90-metre jump into a gorge on the Zambezi, a few hundred metres from the majestic Victoria Falls, plummeting down the gorge into no-man’s-land between Zimbabwe and Zambia. For a moment I regained my breath as I swung like a pendulum, but I was immediately awe-struck by the gorgeous view as the mighty Zambezi quietly flowed beneath me’. Sounds like something for you, maybe?

8. ZIP LINE Victoria Falls boasts one of the longest zip lines in the world—a staggering 450-metre slide across the Batoka Gorge on the mighty Zambezi, Africa’s fourth longest river.

Technically you slide between two countries, starting in Zimbabwe, through no-man’s-land before ending up in Zambia. Incredible, isn’t it? I am an especially big fan of the tandem zip line where it takes two to tango. What better way to kindle the romance than face your fears with your boyfriend or girlfriend, husband or wife? It’s by no means exclusive to lovers though—any two people can take the slide. But there is something else—a more moderate version of the zip line I enjoyed while in Victoria Falls—it’s called ‘the flying fox’. On this occasion you run before you take off and then you ‘fly’ with your hands spread out like a bird. It’s not as intense as the zip line, as it is a less steep gradient and a shorter sliding distance, but still an exhilarating experience with mild adrenaline rush.

9. CANOPY TOUR It is in the canopy of the Zambezi that the definition of picturesque lives: here the only things that take your breath away are the spectacular views of the Batoka Gorge and the historic Victoria Falls Bridge. This is not about a jump that leaves you momentarily gasping for air; or the momentary adrenaline rush that comes with it. It is purely the staggering view over the canopy that sends you reeling. I spent nearly two hours exploring the canopy of the Zambezi on interconnecting walkways up on high, stopping at each point to soak up the view. If you are looking for epic Instagram pictures in Victoria Falls, then this is something you must not miss.

10. FLIGHT OF ANGELS If you have ever had dreams of flying over the rainbow, or have been longing to see something so beautiful that leaves angels gazing in their flight, then your search is finally over. You may have toured the rainforest, seen drone/aerial footage of the Falls on the internet, but it’s not until you are up there on a Chikopokopo Helicopters flight that you actually get to fathom how magical this place is—a breathtaking sight like no other. I have toured the rainforest a dozen times and more, but finally seeing the view from the air was just mind-blowing. I was a little anxious because this was my first time flying in a helicopter, but as soon as we were up there my fears vanished. I was just too confounded by the spell-binding beauty beneath me to even think about my fears. It is only from this bird’s-eye view that you get to see the waterfall splash right to the bottom of the nearly 100-metre-deep gorge. It is an absolutely priceless spectacle to behold.

11. LOOKOUT CAFÉ This beautiful restaurant is on the edge of the mighty Zambezi and overlooks the stunning Batoka Gorge. The combined splendour of its view and its ambiance are unmatched in the whole of Victoria Falls... maybe even the whole of Zimbabwe. I stopped by to hydrate after doing the canopy tour and the view just stops you in your tracks. The restaurant re-opened in December, 2019 after it had sadly burnt down in 2018. The new restaurant is lit on so many levels and decorated in contemporary Afro-chic style. Besides being famous for the view, the burgers here are to die for! As well as being a great place to stop over after your tour of the Falls, or your zip line or gorge swing, it’s popular for the lunar viewing nights when the full moon lights up the Batoka Gorge and illuminates the gushing spray of the Falls a stone’s throw away.

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 ZIMBABWE | VICTORIA FALLS TOWN

12. VULTURE CULTURE EXPERIENCE

What I really want to try out in Zambia is a microlight flight for another ‘angel’s-eye view’ of the Falls. I have been to Livingstone, but it was for a conference and I barely had the chance to explore, so that doesn’t count. I do know though that if you are planning to sleep over, the Waterfront is a great place to stay with different accommodation options, whether you want camping or glamping or are a fan of luxury suites. Good luck with sleeping though, if you are outgoing, because the nightlife in Livingstone is booming. Whether it’s a day trip or you decide to sleep overnight, I don’t see why you should come all the way to Victoria Falls and not cross over to enjoy the best of both worlds. This is Africa, a land of infinite possibilities and adventure.

Did you know that vultures can fly up to 33,000 feet (10 kilometres) high, maybe even more? That’s twice the height that eagles can reach, yet these are the least romanticised birds. Maybe scavengers are the hallmark of unsexy, but a visit to the ‘vulture restaurant’ at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge changed all that for me. Arriving to witness dozens of vultures circling the ‘vulture restaurant’ was confirmation I was at the right place. I quickly made my way through the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge reception and then the Buffalo Bar before finding my seat on the viewing deck below.

It overlooked the ‘vulture restaurant’ where these scavengers would, in a few minutes’ time, be spoilt with meaty treats to supplement their diet as part of on-going conservation efforts by Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. Besides learning about how high they fly, our guide, Mr. Zulu, unpacked the story of the vulture and how, thanks to us humans, it had now become an endangered species. I was fascinated by how their scavenging had actually saved the human race from some wild diseases as they and the hyena made a clinical sweep of carcasses that died in the wild. After all the talk it was time to feast, and the vultures descended on the meat treat. The Vulture Culture Experience runs 365 days a year at 1pm so make a date with the vultures and learn more about these amazing birds.

14. SIDULI HIDE

13. LIVINGSTONE

16. DUSTY ROAD TOWNSHIP EXPERIENCE

The grass is always greener on the other side so stop gazing from a distance and go and see for yourself what lies on the other side of the Mosi-oa-Tunya , in Livingstone, Zambia. See the rest of the Falls there, and if you feel particularly daring then sign up for a swim in the Devil’s Pool on the edge of the Falls.

This was by far my best ‘discovery’ of 2019, even for someone who was born in Victoria Falls and played street soccer with my mates in the dusty roads of Chinotimba Township.

Dusty Road is a traditional eaterie located in the heart of Chinotimba, the largest and oldest township in Victoria Falls and two kilometres from the centre of town. I was thoroughly impressed by the funky, retro-township charm that this place exudes. The ambiance celebrates the resourcefulness of township mothers who embraced the concept of re-use long before ‘re-use and reduce’ became a fancy catch phrase for environmentalists around the world. What was most impressive though was the inventive

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Victoria Falls is home to the Zambezi National Park so there is an abundance of wildlife here and countless ways to experience it—perhaps one of the most exhilarating is the Siduli Hide. Here you can watch some of Africa’s most iconic wildlife come down for a sundowner from the ‘big screen’ of a man-made ant hill right next to the watering hole at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. This is better than any DVD hire or Netflix because you have a front-row seat to watch buffalo, elephant, antelope, warthog and many other animals that frequent this spot. It’s an up-close yet non-intrusive encounter with wildlife that allows you to quietly observe from a hideout that seamlessly blends with the natural environment. There’s always an armed professional guide to lead each team, plus drinks and a few snacks on the house to munch on as you observe animals in their natural habitat.

15. BUFFALO BAR A stopover at the Buffalo Bar to fend off the treacherous afternoon heat turned out to be memorable. The bar is situated on an open terrace overlooking a watering hole frequented by some of the wild and thirsty residents of the Zambezi National Park.

That afternoon, the first to rock up were the ‘landlords’, a herd of buffalo strolling through as if they owned the place.

Meanwhile, I had been quite adventurous in my choice of drink, trying out a cocktail called Crocodile Tears. It then hit me that I actually hadn’t had lunch, and the great news was that right upstairs was the MaKuwaKuwa Restaurant. Thank goodness I didn’t have to move an inch—the food came to me.

After a sumptuous meal and to crown the day, I tried out the Victorian Day Sunset, another delicious cocktail, and Fatima, the bartender, was well up to the mixing task. As I was enjoying the peace and calm, impala, a lone elephant and finally some giraffe sauntered in; for them it was all in a day’s work. A shuttle was on stand-by to take me to my room at Lokuthula Lodges on the very same premises. I’d had a wonderful and well-spent afternoon.

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VICTORIA FALLS TOWN | ZIMBABWE 

and imaginative use of local ingredients to create an authentically African three-course delight.

Food is cooked the traditional Zimbabwean way, on open fires and in cast-iron pots (potjie pots) and ovens. Chimodho bread, crocodile kebabs, peanut butter chicken, Zambezi bream with isindambe butter and kudu stew were all part of this sumptuous organic treat, but it was the dessert that really stole my heart. The chocolate-coated, orange-dipped mongongo nut balls simply melted in my mouth. The ultimate winner though was the sweet treat of baobab amasi cream, mnyi berry drizzle, wild honey and a dash of lemon...unreal. This whole experience though was more than just about food but about our way of life, about eating healthily and sustainably while making an impact in the community. In a township experience, community is, after all, everything.

Hotel arena as boxers from Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Malawi battled it out in this regional tournament. Team Zimbabwe emerged shrugging off a gruelling challenge from the three visiting teams. This marked the dawn of a new era, the birth of ‘Vic Vegas’ inspired by Las Vegas, world capital of boxing. The sold-out event brought the town to a standstill with our own world champion Charles Manyuchi among the VIP guests.

Could he be the one coming here next to defend his World Boxing Federation Silver Championship title? So many possibilities lie ahead but one thing is for sure: the Victoria Falls Boxing Academy is taking the sport and the region to dizzy heights.

17. QUAD BIKING Quad biking was sold to me after watching a particular video but I had no idea where this might be possible until I visited Victoria Falls in December, 2019. It was a real thrill therefore when I was able to do this and I happened to be the only one on the tour that day so I caught on really quickly as I had the undivided attention of the tutor/ guide. By the time we hit the dirt road I was oozing with confidence, but I got carried away by the exhilarating sound of the accelerator when we got to an open space and started doing circles. One moment I was accelerating on the turn, and the next I was down on the ground with dirty jeans and minor bruises on my elbows. The guide was worried but I was fine and just dusted down my jeans before heading off again. Getting to Zambezi Drive was the highlight. I was half-excited and half-scared that we would run into elephants or buffalo, but all we stumbled upon were impala and waterbuck. We stopped over at the Big Tree, one of the oldest baobab trees in the country, before heading back to the Rainbow Hotel where Betadine soothed my bruised elbows. The Heritage Safaris team went above and beyond to make sure I was all right and I can’t wait to have another go...

18. MOONLIT VIEW There are some things that happen once in a blue moon; well, perhaps more like each time there is a full moon. Having a safari dinner under the luminous charm of the African stars is magical and I can only imagine how stupefying it would be to see the Falls under the spell-binding gaze of a full moon. I was so looking forward to this year’s edition of the Victoria Falls Marathon because it coincided not only with a full moon but a lunar eclipse. But Covid-19 happened so I guess I’ll have to keep checking the lunar calendar until there’s another opportunity to witness this spectacle.

19. BOXING IN VICTORIA FALLS You may not have to worry about missing sports action back home, because in Victoria Falls you will get front-row seats to action-packed boxing matches, thanks to the Victoria Falls Boxing Academy. Long after the echoes have faded of the legendary ‘Rumble in the Jungle’ elsewhere in Africa that captured the hearts of boxing fans around the world, the academy is transforming this resort town into a boxing powerhouse in the region. On 20 December 2019 fists thundered louder than the Mosi-oa-Tunya at the Kingdom

20. HIGH TEA Victoria Falls is one destination in the world that will give you the feeling that you have been transported to a banqueting hall inside the majestic walls of Great Zimbabwe one minute, and in the next minute you are being spoilt enjoying high tea on the terrace at Buckingham Palace.

The high tea experience at the five-star Victoria Falls Hotel though is more than just high tea. It is high tea laid out with all the trimmings of sweet treats, finger food and beautiful crockery but with one of the best views on the planet overlooking the Victoria Falls Bridge and the dashing spray of the Mosi-oa-Tunya with its mesmerising rainbows. When I saw this view for the first time I was awe-struck—and spellbound the next—it never ages. The Victoria Falls Hotel has been an address of choice for many celebrities and royals visiting the Falls for more than a century.

There’s certainly no better mid-afternoon treat than to indulge yourself while enjoying the staggering view of one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. ■

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 ZIMBABWE | INGWE PAN

Ingwe Pan MANA POOLS NATIONAL PARK

WRITER: FLO COUGHLAN PHOTOGRAPHY: FLO COUGHLAN few years ago, Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority decided that it would put out to auction a few inland pans in Mana Pools National Park. By doing so they hoped to increase much needed revenue without adding to the traffic on the flood plain. A further bonus was a source of water for animals throughout the dry season when these pans historically dried up, and also to provide a human presence which assisted in anti-poaching efforts.

Ingwe Pan Camp is the product of this process. Machaba Safaris, which already operate camps in Hwange National Park, won the bid and decided to keep to their

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successful model of authentic and eco-friendly safari camps that they began in Botswana in 2012.

The camp, which is a 20-minute drive from Mana’s main airstrip and less than a 30-minute game drive from the river and flood plain, was built in the winter of 2019 and opened on 1 May 2020. With just eight twin/double tents, it caters for a

INGWE PAN | ZIMBABWE 

maximum of 16 guests at any one time.

The large airy tents, on ground level eco-friendly composite decks, are situated in a semi-circle along the southern border of the pan, where ancient jackalberry (Diospyros mespiliformis), also known as African ebony, and nyala trees or nyala berry trees (Xanthocercis zambesiaca) offer shady aspects. All tents overlook the pan, allowing for early morning and evening moments of solitude, just metres from the water’s edge. The main lounge, which offers two seating areas, plus a tea/coffee corner and small bar, is under canvas while the communal dining area is outdoors, under the shade of a massive fig tree. Dinner under the stars and fireside chats are standard order after a day filled with bush activities.

All tents are en suite with both indoor and outdoor showers; indoors for the cooler nights and outdoors for the magical starlit evenings of late winter and early summer. Double bathroom vanities and ample space also make for a refreshing experience after a morning’s walk.

The camp is solar powered and backed up by a generator if ever necessary.

Lighting is minimal but ample and provides for just the right ambience at the pan. Whilst hairdryers and airconditioning are not part of the system, overhead fans, bedside lamps and plug points for charging purposes are. Wi-Fi is available at designated points but is not encouraged in communal areas to allow guests to experience being totally off the

grid and immersed in nature; which is after all what going on safari is all about.

As with all safaris conducted by Machaba, guiding is of the highest order.

Mana is about walking, after all. Whether it is tracking the big cats and wild dogs or wandering quietly birding through the woodlands, Mana has always been about the wide open spaces and the relaxed moods of the wildlife that this area affords. Drives are on offer in the afternoons or in the mornings for those who do not wish to leave the vehicle, but it would be sad to miss a walk with Siraaj Gardner, the resident professional guide.

His fresh enthusiasm for tracking and his interest in everything from ants to antelope, and birds to baobabs, will keep you inspired between stops for tea and snack breaks under a shady tree. Young enough to be filled with energy, but experienced enough to effect things with due consideration to the environment and your individual requests, he, together with his fiancée Caitlin Wetzlar, who manages Ingwe Pan Camp, will ensure that your safari at Ingwe won’t be your last one there.

After a day’s tracking, birding or just gentle exploring, you will return to camp for Ingwe’s very personalised hosting and the pan’s unique sundowner entertainment. Will it be an early leopard, a late-home small pack of wild dogs or an on-the-move herd of buffalo coming down to drink? Or will it be the resident little duiker and his mate?

And finally, elephants bathing, lions roaring and owls hooting will be music to your ears as you sit down to a delicious three-course meal served under the stars. See you there soon! ■

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 ZIMBABWE | COOL AT THE POOL

Cool at the Pool WRITER: ASTRID STEINBRECHER-RAITMAYR PHOTOGRAPHY: ASTRID STEINBRECHER-RAITMAYR

here is nothing like a beautiful sunset! But sitting at a waterhole, with a G&T in hand, watching approximately 100 elephants approaching from all directions makes you believe you are the luckiest person alive.

Hwange National Park, covering an area of 14,651 square kilometres, is home to over 100 species of mammals—including the ‘Big Five’ and wild dogs—and over 400 species of birds. The park, situated in the western part of the country, is the largest protected area of Zimbabwe and borders the Kalahari Desert in Botswana. This park is especially known as a paradise for pachyderms—up to 50,000 elephants inhabit the area during the dry winter months. For this reason, my daughter

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Constanze and I flew to Victoria Falls because we wanted to see these incredible creatures.

A driver picks us up from the airport and drops us off at an intersection in the middle of the bush where a safari vehicle from Machaba Safaris is waiting for us.

Makhosi ‘Mak’ Ncube, camp manager at Deteema Springs Camp and also our

COOL AT THE POOL | ZIMBABWE 

guide for the next few days, greets us with a warm ‘Hello ladies and welcome to Hwange National Park.’ Inside the vehicle we do not only find delicious lunch packages, but also water bottles with our names written on them. And off we go, along one of those famous red sand paths we love so much.

To our left and right the forest shines in its most beautiful autumn colours beneath a lightening blue sky. ‘I’ve heard you want to see a lot of elephants,’ Mak says. We reply with an emphatic ‘Yes.’ We get along straight away and know we’ve found the perfect guide; Mak is an elephant professional. But he does not make it easy for us and starts with a little quiz, asking if we know how old elephants can get to (60–70 years), what height (up to 3.5 metres) and weight (up to six tons).

‘Did you know that elephants are more similar in their cognitive perception than we would assume them to be?’ questions Mak. When we answer with a confused ‘No,’ he continues, ‘Small children, for example, point their fingers at things. Elephants, in this instance, would immediately know what this small human is pointing towards.

Surprisingly, they know this without any training. Like us humans, they are also very keen on family and even comfort each other in a state of sadness.’ We listen attentively, amazed, and also learn that the animal’s trunk, which is equipped with over 60,000 muscles, is put to use at a very early stage after birth. With this distinctive feature, these giants, that have been around for over 55 million years, breathe, smell, trumpet and also grab things, especially food. ‘They do not just randomly throw sand, hay, straw or mud at each other afterwards,’ Mak adds with a laugh and explains to us, ‘This serves to protect the animals’ sensitive skin from insects.’ From an anatomical point of view, elephants are not that different from humans. For example, elephants are able to maintain their balance even in difficult situations and are very agile. In addition, elephants have a better memory than humans. Why is this? Mak explains that it is because elephants depend on surviving in the wild. ‘These factors especially make their distinct capability of remembering so necessary; on the one hand because of their social structure, which is rather unusual in the animal kingdom. On the other hand, they are able to remember ancient routes through the bush, which they follow on an annual basis in search of food and water supplies.’

THE GREY COMMUNICATION GENIUSES

‘In contrast to us humans, elephants do not rely on their eyes,’ our guide explains to us; he is in contact with the pachyderms on a daily basis. Equipped with a complex sound system, which includes sounds within an extreme infrasound range, these animals can communicate with each other over several kilometres and even recognise each other.

However, humans are unable to comprehend these low-frequency sounds. But also the tail, trunk, ears and feet belong to the communication system of the grey giants.

Elephants scan their surroundings with their tail— this is how they measure respective distances to other group members and their immediate surroundings. Their ears are primarily used for cooling, but also to express excitement and joy. With their trunk, they do not only smell and pick up food and other items. The trunk is especially used for detection of other elephants, as they can sense what their colleague has eaten, and even determine how it felt. Lastly, their feet enable them to notice alarm signals, as they can feel the vibrations from other herds.

THE MAGIC OF THE GOLDEN HOUR

Going on safari in Africa is truly a life-changing and educational adventure—maybe like attending school or university, but much better. While we are sitting in the safari vehicle

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and enjoying the luxury of having nothing else to do except observe all the amazing animals and impressive nature, Mak passionately tells us almost everything there is to know about the wild animals of his homeland. These ‘schooling days’ are only interrupted by delicious bush picnics at unusual places before returning to the camp, just in time for the sunset, when you can revisit the day with a G&T and exchange your newly gained knowledge with other travellers. The terraces of some of the tents at Machaba Safaris’ Deteema Springs Camp, which opened in the spring of 2019, are located above a waterhole. From this box seat you have an astonishing view of the elephants and can even watch them drink and splash around. Yet, that is not all. On one of the following evenings we were informed that we will go directly into the spring, up close with the grey giants. Mak carries a rifle, just in case of an emergency. From previous trips I am aware that the rifle only carries one shot. I start to wonder why and receive an unpredictable answer from a smirking Mak, ‘It’s just for you if you try to run away.’ So far so good and we start our approach, with Mak in the front, guests in the middle, and at the end of the line another guide is watching the surroundings. Slowly and obviously very diligently we get deeper and deeper into the spring. And there they are, right in front of us—not quiet, but certainly majestic. Provided there is an appropriate distance kept between them and us, these wonderful prehistoric creatures do not let us bother them while fulfilling their evening ritual of bathing and drinking. What an unforgettable experience.

FURTHER INTO THE LAND OF THE ELEPHANTS

Unfortunately, it is time to say ‘Goodbye’ the next day and a small ‘plane takes us to the other side of Hwange National Park, where Verney’s Camp is located. There is no spring here but instead a huge waterhole and each tent is arranged in such a way that every guest has an exceptional view of it. We do not know what the day promises, but at around 5pm ranger Trust gets more and more excited and tells us, ‘We are now looking to access a nice place at the waterhole.’ Armchairs are unfolded, a small bar is set up, the first drinks and snacks are served and more and more guests assemble. Elephants are casually approaching from all directions; we can already see them and have the best seats in the house. At first, we only perceive them as grey shadows due to the low stage of the sun.

And as they come closer into the light, they almost look golden. Ten elephants, then twenty, then fifty—and at some point you cannot even count them anymore. Regardless of bulls, cows, babies—some of them are only a few days old and therefore still clumsily stumbling around between the legs of their bigger family members—the entire range is

represented. Young bulls show off their strength, while elephant mothers ensure that their offspring does not trip over and fall into the water. We, on the other hand, enjoy our drinks as well as the magnificent natural spectacle that is happening right in front of us. There is only one thing we are absolutely certain about—we will be back soon. ■

TRUE TO THE PLANET AND HER PEOPLE Machaba is the Setswana name for the sycamore fig tree whose fruit attracts animals from afar. The people from Machaba Safaris know that it is not only the tree and its animals that need their protection, which is why they lend their support to the fragile local communities whose people have lived in these remote regions for centuries.

It is also why Machaba attracts like-minded explorers from all over the globe to share in the joy that ethical eco-tourism has to offer.

ICONIC DESTINATIONS

Machaba Safaris operate in Botswana and Zimbabwe, with locations in prime safari destinations including the Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park and Hwange National Park. While each site has its own specific charm, the Machaba standard of excellence is consistent. www.machabasafaris.com

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EXPLORE AN UNTAMED ZIMBABWE MACHABA SAFARIS welcomes you to experience 5 superb luxury safari camps in prime locations in Hwange National Park and Mana Pools.

VISIT WWW.MACHABASAFARIS.COM FOR FURTHER INFO EMAIL ENQUIRIES@MACHABASAFARIS.COM

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We organise tailor-made Safaris , Horse Safaris and Agriculture tours within Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Tanzania, Uganda & Kenya. reservations@zamagsafaris.com /www.zamagsafaris.com/