ISSUE 6 - JAN - MARCH 2017 by Lyn G

TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA JAN - MAR 2017 | EDITION 6

SHIWA NGANDU An Englishman’s African Dream

FACE TO FACE WITH GIANTS

HIPPO TURF WARS LAKE KARIBA

The Perfect Weekend Getaway

WORK

MEETING ROOMS. OFFICES. HOT DESKS.

PLAY

PRIVATE MEMBERS CLUB. GYM. SPA.

STAY

BOUTIQUE HOTEL. RESTAURANTS. BAR. www.thelatitudehotels.com

35F Leopards Lane, Kabulonga, Lusaka, Zambia t. +260 (0) 211 268 802/3/4 | e. 15@thelatitudehotels.com

a most unusual establisment

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA / JAN - MAR 2017

CONTENTS Features

Eye-Catchers in the Bush 06 By Peter Geraerdts

Elephant Charge 2016 By Sam Tett

What to do if attacked by hippo By John Coppinger

Mfuwe Junior Football League By Wilson Malambo

Face to Face with Gentle Giants By Mahina Perrot

Five Mintues with Thandiwe Mweetwa By Andrew Muswala

Lake Kariba: The Perfect Weekend Getaway 14 By Kathy Mills

Hippo Turf Wars By Hadley Pierce

Tourism Development in Zambia By Adrian Coley

Bridge over Infested Waters By Jake da Motta

African Pride 18 By Jessica White

Shiwa Ngandu 30 By Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson

Advertisers Index I.F.C.

Chongwe Safaris

Bushtracks Africa

Latitude Hotels

Lake Safari Lodge

Ila Safari Lodge

Ndole Bay Lodge

Flatdogs Camp

Muchichili Safari House

Edward Selfe Photography

I.B.C.

Mfuwe Lodge

Zambia Department of Immigration

B.C.

Zambian Ground Handlers

Our Contributors

Originally from downtown Boston, Hadley spent her childhood traveling all over the world. She fell in love with the bush at a young age and at 21 decided to move to Africa for good. For the last year and a half, she has been guiding in Southern Africa, taking photographs and writing along the way.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson is a UK-based travel writer who has lived and worked in Canada, Africa, Hong Kong and Australia, contributing to publications both overseas and in the UK. An experienced and adventurous traveller, she has been interviewed on the radio in Cape Town and London about her travels.

TRAVEL & LEISURE

A word from the MD ZAMBIA Publisher Safari Magazine

Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala andrew@zambiatravelmag.com Sub-Editor Kathy G Mills kathygmills@gmail.com

Layout and Art Director Gemma Beardsall gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk Consultant Jo Pope popejo@gmail.com

Welcome to the sixth edition of Travel and Leisure Zambia, a magazine dedicated exclusively to Zambia. As we publish the first of four 2017 editions we look back at 2016. It was an exciting year for us at Travel and Leisure Zambia as we saw the magazine’s distribution grow. The early editions were distributed to the local market through government offices and the corporate arena. We also reached the international tourists travelling in Zambia through safaris lodges and hotels. In 2016 we expanded our distribution into the international source markets through selected agents and key marketing representatives. There have been changes every quarter and these will gather pace in 2017. Towards the end of last year Kathy G. Mills our sub-editor left us. Kathy was a reliable dedicated editor who has played a valued role in the life of the magazine, driven by her shared passion for Tourism. We are grateful for her commitment, and hope that her new adventures prove exciting and rewarding. There are always many stories we want to share with you as we continue our exploration of Africa’s most exciting country.

Hadley Pierce shares with us how hippos fight for their territories in Hippo Turf Wars (p25). Adrian Coley begins a series on Tourism Strategy (p16), we learn more on Photographic Tips (p6) and Behind the Lens (p23) by two renowned wildlife photographers. Elsewhere in this edition we explore Shiwa N’gandu House (p30), talk to Thandiwe Mweetwa (p22), look at responsible tourism (p20) and explore Lake Kariba (p14).

We would appreciate your honest evaluation of what you like about the magazine and what else you would like to read. We hope this issue inspires you to plan your next safari. A trip will of course be a real high point in your years. Happy reading!

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Subscriptions ads@zambiatravelmag.com +260 955 108 536 / 0967 308 711 www.zambiatravelmag.com

Contributors John Coppinger, Kathy G. Mills, Hadley Pierce, Edward Selfe, Sam Tett, Wilson Malambo, Jessica White, Peter Geraerdts, Adrian Coley, Mahina Perrot, Nicky Dunnington–Jefferson, Jake da Motta, Lake Safari Lodge, Ian Salisbury Printers Impumelelo Print Solutions (Pty) Ltd Unit 7 Kings Court 52 Mineral Crescent, Crown Ext.5 Johannesburg South Africa +27 11 839 4414

Copyright Copyright © All right for material appearing in this magazine belongs to Travel and Leisure Zambia and / or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or with due acknowledgment. On the cover African Fish Eagle in South Luangwa National Park Photo credit: Edward Selfe

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Everyone can take a snapshot….but what about taking an ‘eye-catcher’…?

Eye-Catchers in the Bush Photographic Tips

By: Peter Geraerdts, Professional wildlife photographer Photos: Peter Geraerdts

Above Picture: Canon 1DX – 100 -400mm: ISO 200 – F5.6 – 1/320sec

Taking wildlife pictures is not easy. Light is constantly changing and animal behavior is hard to predict. Although it would be of enormous help, you can’t entice an animal to pose for you. However, by understanding your camera, you will improve your chances of taking an eye-catching photograph.

Above Picture: Canon 1DX – 100 -400mm: ISO 4000 – F5.6 – 1/13sec

Your camera’s user manual is indispensable. Take some time to study it and learn about the different functions available to you, and then practise until you are confident that you can adjust the settings to achieve the effect you are looking for. This skill will serve you well when you are under pressure trying to capture action shots or interesting angles.

Creativity and technical skills are both very important; they cannot operate independently. An imaginative and creative eye is needed to identify fantastic compositions. However, if you are not using the right camera settings, your vision cannot be realised.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Above Picture: Canon 1DX – 500mm / F4: ISO 640 – F5.6 – 1/200sec

A photographic workshop is an enjoyable way to familiarize yourself with your equipment. You’ll also learn about other aspects of successful photography, such as understanding your subject. For example, if you are photographing wildlife, knowing the habits and patterns of different species will help you anticipate their movements. For outdoor shots, a knowledge of light conditions and how to use them to your advantage will be helpful. Mastering all of these skills will bring you closer and closer to creating that perfect picture you’ve always had in mind.

Above Picture: Canon 1DX – 100 -400mm: ISO 6400 – F7.1 – 1/160sec (sidelight from other game viewer)

It’s never too soon to start practising. Consider taking a safari holiday and enjoy capturing your own eye-catchers in South Luangwa National Park!

Above Picture: Canon 1DX – 100 -400mm: ISO 1250 – F7.1 – 1/500sec

What to do

What to do...

...in the event of an attack by

hippo

By: John Coppinger Photo: Edward Selfe

n my experience, the commonly heard claim that hippos are responsible for more attacks on humans than any other dangerous animal in Africa is a complete myth. The Luangwa Valley is currently recognized as carrying the densest population of hippos in Africa and after half a lifetime here, I am aware of only two instances of serious human injury inflicted by a hippo. Whilst there are so few attacks, it would be folly to think they are not dangerous. Hippos are extremely large, powerful animals and despite being herbivorous, are armed with long, lethal teeth that are designed purely for battle. I have observed a hippo killing a large crocodile with one bite. A human would provide little to no resistance in the face of a full-on hippo attack.

It is therefore vital to avoid inciting an attack in the first place, whether on land or on the water (in a boat or canoe). If given sufficient space and deep enough water in which to submerge themselves, hippos are generally placid creatures and pose no threat. However, late in the dry season when water levels are low and food supplies limited, they are more inclined to be aggressive. Vicious fights break out between rival males in their bid for suitable river space and losers are often ousted from the river. They skulk under thickets during the day and are liable to attack if approached too closely.

A dangerous aspect of hippo behaviour is their unpredictability. With experience, most animals’ reactions can be predicted with a certain degree of accuracy, but in my opinion hippos are not endowed with a great deal of intelligence and even they are not sure of their own next move! Clapping your hands, waving your arms about or shouting is likely to have no effect on a charging hippo. Your only hope is to find immediate refuge.

Hot tips:

On the water (in a boat or canoe): - Allow hippos plenty of space. Do not venture into shallow water levels where they are unable to submerge themselves. - Gently tap the side of the boat or canoe to signal your position so that hippos do not inadvertently come up beneath your craft. On foot: - Keep your distance and avoid thicket areas where hippos may be skulking. - Listen out for oxpeckers’ calls – a good warning sign that there could be a hippo about. - Run for cover up or behind a tree or termite mound.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Face to Face with Gentle Giants

By: Mahina Perrot Photos: Ian Salisbury, courtesy of The Bushcamp Company

he large elephant bull gracefully winds his trunk around the branch of an acacia tree. He gives it a gentle caress before breaking it off with a quick snap and popping the leaves into his mouth. Chewing lazily, he is completely oblivious to the onlookers taking pictures from the main area of Mfuwe Lodge, just 10m away. “It’s George,” whispers Ian Salisbury, Mfuwe Lodge General Manager, as everyone watches in awe. Elephants have been visiting Mfuwe Lodge’s grounds for years. Situated inside of the South Luangwa National Park, the lodge, overlooking small lagoons, offers incredible views of wildlife of all kinds. Since it re-opened in 1998, animals such as leopards, lions, antelopes and hippos have been walking and grazing on the premises, and the lodge has become part of their home. But what makes Mfuwe Lodge even more unique are the families of elephants known to pass through the reception area looking for succulent wild mango fruits (Cordial Africana). People from around the world come to the lodge to witness this incredible event between late October and early December. In 2010, Jayish Tailor, a repeat guest, was making his way towards the bar area when he realised the elephants had just arrived. “They were very quiet and before I knew it they were already on the step,” he recalls. “Everybody was behind the counter and I was stuck on the other side so I just stayed there! They were so calm. It feels very special that they choose to come here.”

Sheila and Derek Philips, a couple

from the United Kingdom, have visited Mfuwe Lodge five times over the last few years and were thrilled to see the pachyderms in November 2011. “We hoped to see the elephants and we did,” Sheila remembers. “They wandered through reception and looked as though they wanted to book in!” Derek says. “We took up a safe place to watch them go through the reception and out to ‘their tree’,” Sheila adds. “Seeing such huge animals in a small space made us realise how lucky we were to see them close up.” Phil Berry and his partner, Babette, who manage the Kuyenda Bushcamp (also located in the South Luangwa National Park) recall

that the matriarch of the group, known as “Wonky Tusk,” was the first elephant to wander through the reception. About twelve years ago, she began bringing her family with her on the journey as well. “She was so peaceful,” they say. “She would go about her business being her normal self, and she always had others around her, including little ones.” In 2009, Wonky Tusk gave birth to a baby boy who was nicknamed Wellington (after the rubber rain boots). The baby, born on Halloween, first visited the lodge when he was only two days old. “Wonky came in the car park with a small baby boy, but he was

too small to go up the steps,” Ian relates. “A few days later they came back and Wellington came through the reception and fell asleep there, with the adult females standing beside him.” In 2012 Wonky Tusk disappeared, but her eldest daughter took over the role of leading the family and the elephants continued to amble through the lodge premises. Far from shy, they have even visited the gift shop and the Bush Spa! An unrelated lone bull, nicknamed George, is another regular visitor. He has also been known to walk through the reception on many occasions. “Elephants feel safe around humans here, because they know they won’t be harmed,” Ian says. “I am also convinced that Wonky enjoyed the attention! The elephants usually behave extremely well while checking in at the lodge, except maybe that one Christmas when one young bull started eating the decorations made from dried fruits on the Christmas tree!” The elephants have also caught the attention of media outlets. Wonky and Wellington are featured in two children’s books “Wonky Tusk” and “Wellington Gets the Boot.” The two were also filmed over a period of four years for the documentary Elephants in the Room. Even though these animals don’t appear to fear humans, they should not be considered tame. Respecting these gentle giants by giving them space to roam and graze naturally is key to keeping the relationship between humans and elephants in balance. It also means that visitors are likely to enjoy the visits of Wonky Tusk’s descendants for years to come.

ESSENTIAL ZAMBIA Language: English is the official language. Time Zone: GMT+2

International dialling code: +260

Visas: Visas are needed for most visitors to Zambia. They are available from Zambian embassies abroad or at Kenneth Kaunda International airport and other points of entry.

Health: Malaria occurs in many parts of the country, especially in the low-lying areas where the game parks are

often situated so malaria prophylactics are recommended. Yellow fever certificates are required if you are travelling from an infected area. Medical insurance, including medevac, is recommended.

Safety: Zambia is known for friendliness and great hospitality but like anywhere in the world, especially where there is high unemployment, it is wise to remain vigilant at all times. Be aware of pick-pockets and thieves in

the towns and cities. Do not leave your belongings unattended and when in public, and carry only the minimum amount of cash that you need. Always lock a vehicle and do not leave items visible in a parked vehicle.

Money: The unit of currency is the Zambian Kwacha (ZMW). Foreign currency (US dollars are best) can be

changed into kwacha at banks and there are foreign exchange bureaus in most towns. Visa, and to a lesser extent MasterCard, are accepted by many tourist hotels and can also be used to draw local currency at ATMs in the major towns.

Getting there: Emirates (www.emirates.com), Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com), Ethiopian Airlines

(www.ethiopianairlines.com), and South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) fly to Lusaka, linking Europe and USA via Dubai, Nairobi, Addis Ababa or Johannesburg/Cape Town.

Getting around: Once in Lusaka, internal flights can connect you to most major destinations in Zambia (www. flyzambia.com). Local buses are cheap and frequent. There are also luxury coach services.

Weather: Zambian weather is essentially divided between two seasons: the dry season from May to October,

and the rainy season from November to April. May to August marks Zambia’s winter when it is warm and plea-

sant during the day and very cool at night. During this time it can be cold on game viewing vehicles in the early morning, especially on the plateau. September to November is a period of hot and dry weather- in the valleys,

temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees Celsius. Around November or December, Zambia experiences intermittent showers and storms that usher in the rainy season, keeping the climate warm and humid through April.

DEPARTMENT OF IMMIGRATION ZAMBIA We now have an online facility for applying for visas for entry into Zambia. CONTACT: +260 211 255282/252622 TO APPLY VISIT: www.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm or evisa.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Bushtracks Africa is a leading Destination Management Company perfectly positioned at the rapidly expanding gateway of Livingstone, Zambia. With offices in Zimbabwe & Botswana as well we ensure first class service in every destination. Contact us today for your next experience.

P.O Box 60719, Livingstone, Zambia

reservations@bushtracksafrica.com +260 213 323232 www.bushtracksafrica.com

LAKE KARIBA

A Perfect Weekend Getaway

By: Kathy G. Mills Photos: Lake Safari Lodge

The drive is a pleasant one, with good roads and a spectacular display of baobab trees along the way. You may want to stop and do some roadside shopping, as there are numerous stands run by local crafters. In particular, hand-woven baskets and other unique items made with reed are often on display.

iavonga, one of the more prominent towns along the shores of Lake Kariba, is an ideal spot for a weekend get-away. Only a three-hour drive from Lusaka, it will transport you from the hustle and bustle of the city to what is locally known as “the Riveria of Zambia.” Not only does it provide respite from the stresses of daily life, it also provides an interesting and informative history of the area. Construction for the Kariba Dam, situated in the Kariba Gorge of the Zambezi river basin, began in 1955. People living in the area were relocated and vetegation was burned off before allowing the mighty Zambezi river to rush in and flood the valley. The completion of the hydroelectric dam created an important power source for Zambia and Zimbabwe, and also created world’s largest manmade lake, Lake Kariba.

The new inhabitants took to settling the land around the lake They constructed villages that hugged the shores, and and build houses the hills above the water. Looking for a new trade, they became fishermen, catching varieties such as bream and tigerfish during the day, and kapenta, a kind of sardine, at night.

Upon your arrival, there is plenty of time to enjoy an activity on the lake. Fishing, bird-watching, and water sports are all available, as well as simply relaxing by the shore to take in the beautiful scenery. A better look at the Kariba dam is a must-see. From the water, you can marvel at its impressive contruction and expansive stretch from Zambia to Zimbabwe. But don’t stop there! Go to the top of the dam and walk across. From the 128-metre heights, you’ll be rewarded with a commading view of the lake.

Returning to your accomodation, you can take some time to relax. Lying by the pool, having a drink, or taking photographs are all good ways to unwind. You can do all of this and still have time for another lake activity before late evening. By then, you’ll want to stop and take in the sensational sunset. Even if you’re not skilled with a camera, it is virtually impossible to take a bad picture of a sunset over Lake Kariba! This view is the perfect accompaniment to your dinner, whether it’s a five-star meal in a hotel, or a humble braii cooked in front of a tent.

After a good night’s sleep, consdier getting up early to catch the sunrise. There is surely no more relaxing way to start your day than regarding the beauty of Lake Kariba while enjoying a cup of coffee. After a lesiurely breakfast, it may be time for Siavonga, which started out as one of these small you to pack your bags and start the journey home. settlements, still maintains its status as a working While making the drive, though, you’ll surely be fishing village. Additionally, it has transformed it- thinking about your next trip! With the incredible self into a highly sought-after tourist destination. landscapes and so many opportunties to interact Nautral beauty, stunning views, and abundant with nature, making a quick getaway to Siavonga wildlife are the backdrop for numerous activities is something you’ll want to do again and again. ranging from the low-key (bird-watching, nature walks and sundowner cruises) to the adventurous (wind-surfing, canoeing or water-skiing). Add to that a wide range of accomodation —everything from backpackers’ camping spots to luxury hotels to fully-furnished houseboats—and Siavonga promises something for every need, interest, and budget. Given its proximity to Lusaka, Siavonga is perfect for a day trip or an overnight getaway. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

TOURISM DEVELOPMENT

systems, and around 40% of sub-Saharan Africa’s water rises in Zambia spawning waterfalls galore, among them the famous Victoria Falls. The result ambia is recognized internationally as a is an astonishing landscape and a rich habitat for leading destination for outdoor and safari tourism, boasting dramatic landscapes and abundant some of the world’s most endangered wildlife wildlife. However, there is still plenty of develop- species. We have large areas of intact forest and a ment ahead in order for our country to achieve its number of welcoming local villages that promote cultural tourism experiences to compliment the full potential. nature-based tourism for which we are famous. I was the Chairman of the Luangwa Safaris Associ- However, Zambia is a large country with signifiation (LSA) for more than ten years and was lucky cant distances between some of its well-known enough to be involved in discussions at a national attractions. The limited infrastructure creates some challenges for visitors who wish to take full level for the development of the Zambian tourism industry. Some of the key areas for additional advantage of what our country has to offer. development that have been identified include expansion of infrastructure, and diversification of Zambia has a reputation (I would say an unfair one) for being an expensive destination. However, accommodation offerings. on a like for like basis, our mid- to upper-range products offer great value for the money. If you Over 30% of Zambia’s land is designated as eiwanted to stay at a camp in Botswana, Kenya, Tanther national parks or game management areas zania or even Zimbabwe of equal quality to camps (GMAs). We are blessed with several major river View from the skies above the Lower Zambezi National Park

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

IN ZAMBIA

in Zambia, you would pay significantly more. In fact, Flatdogs Camp in the South Luangwa National Park (SNLP) just won the “Best Value Safari Property in Africa” at the 2017 London Safari Awards.

By: Adrian Coley – Flatdogs Camp Photos: Andrew Muswala Photography

as Lake Tanganyika, Kasanka National Park, and Bangweulu.

This new level of infrastructure could also provide protection to local habitats currently under threat, as owners will naturally want to take part in the We do need to improve our offerings for the low- conservation of the areas that they are promoting. er-end of the market. Areas of parks that currently By partnering with the Department of National have very little or no development would benefit Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) in this effort, more from the addition of affordable hotels that would of the beautiful Zambian landscape can be developed, maintained and preserved for eco-friendly add to the diversity of available lodging. There are prime opportunities in parts of the Kafue Na- tourism. tional Park (KNP) and SNLP, for example, that are not currently attractive to investors due to lack of As existing investors, we understand that addiinfrastructure, low wildlife numbers, and the high tional planned developments are beneficial to our country. When properly planned and executed, start-up costs. But given the proper incentives, these areas could be developed into prime wildlife this kind of expansion generates jobs in the local destinations. They would also add value to neigh- economy, heightened awareness of the imporboring attractions. For example, an established tance of conservation, and creates an opportunity for even more visitors to enjoy the spectacular camp in the northern section of the SNLP could attract visitors to other northern-circuit sites such natural resources that Zambia has to offer.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

AFRICAN

PRIDE Interaction, Education and Conservation

By: Jessica White Photos: Bushtracks Africa / Andrew Muswala Photography

istorically, lions have been regarded as a symbol of strength and rank as one of the fiercest of all wild creatures. This is an animal of such stature and power, with such a domineering presence, that it is commonly known as “King of the Beasts.” It takes approximately 110 days to bring a lion into this world. It took just one decade for the population of these iconic creatures to plummet from 50,000 to 15,000. Per the International Union for Conservation of Nature, the rate of depletion is as rapid as 42%.

At the turn of the 19th century, the earth’s savannas teemed with a charismatic mega-herbivore, the rhinoceros. Their rough skin, impressive horn and commanding presence is reminiscent of the Jurassic era. Today, there are barely 28,000 rhinos surviving in the wild. In 2008, poachers robbed the earth of 5,940 African Rhino. This dramatically escalating epidemic is driven by the belief that medicine from the horn of this endangered species can cure a wide range of ailments, from hangovers to cancer. The demand has placed a massive burden on the fragile rhino population. White rhinos were pushed to the brink of extinction before a century of conservation efforts brought them back into the Near Threatened classification.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Without the dedication of conservation programmes, Africa is in danger of losing two members of her Big Five family. In an effort to underscore the severity of the problem, the conservation group Lion Encounter grants guests the unique opportunity to interact with two of Africa’s most extraordinary and exemplary ani-

“These animals symbolise Africa’s strength and beauty, as well as the unity between humans and wildlife. They deserve our respect and protection.”

mals. Accompanied by a professional, passionate research team, guests can revel in this rare experience while gaining valuable knowledge about the importance of protecting local wildlife . These programmes are instrumental in generating awareness about the importance of conservation and this has earned them the support of the eco-aware organisation Bushtracks Africa. Dan Matthews, Volunteer Project Manager and keen conservationist, believes that lion are “an iconic species worldwide, and an integral part of Africa’s ecosystems. This, coupled with their tourism benefits, makes them an extremely special animal.” Matthews asserts that, from personal experience and observations, there is a very good chance that lions can be released into the wild from a captive source. Kutanga, Kariba and Kwali are three

lionesses that Matthews has had the privilege of watching grow into efficient hunters for the pure and simple fact that “lions will always be lions.” These females raise their own offspring to be respectable hunters in a cohesive pride independent of human interference.

Interaction with the animals in their natural environment can alter individual attitudes towards conservation, which is one of the reasons animal interaction programmes exist. While many people are aware of the poaching problem and sympathise with the plight of the lion and rhino, being in the presence of these two magnificently powerful and peaceful creatures adds a new dimension to one’s perspective.

The complexity of our ecosystems requires humans and animals to live in harmony with one another; wiping out either species will create a detrimental domino effect that will damage important ecological relationships. The grazing habits of rhino have helped to shape the African landscape, which benefits other grazers and maintains a healthy balance in the ecosystem. The predatory nature of lions helps regulate the number of dominant herbivore species. This generation is responsible for ensuring that lion and rhino do not only appear in bedtime stories, company logos and picture books. These animals symbolise Africa’s strength and beauty, as well as the unity between humans and wildlife. They deserve our respect and protection.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Responsible Tourism

A team tackles the rocky terrain of the Gauntlet

The Bushtracks team winches through the bush before drowning in the river

ELEPHANT CHARGE 2016

By: Sam Tett Photos: The Elephant Charge

t is Friday 4pm on a hot, dry October afternoon. We’ve just been given a detailed 20m-contoured map from circa 1965. It shows ten checkpoints and some interesting contours over an area of bush approximately 10km x 10km straddling the Chongwe River. We must complete all 10 checkpoints in the shortest distance possible if we are to stand a chance of winning. The following morning at dawn, we make our way to our starting checkpoint. We are feeling brave and our vehicle, a 1985 Toyota FJ45 Landcruiser, is ready. The Warthog, as it is known, was the first rhino game-viewing vehicle we purchased second-hand 20 years ago when we started Bushtracks Africa, the tour operating company we run from Livingstone. We have modified the car for the Elephant Charge quite considerably in the hope that our team, Bushtracks, will make it round the challenging course. Our starting checkpoint is on the summit of a 1,180m hill close to the Gauntlet, a trio of checkpoints that zigzag over the Chongwe River. A sign saying DANGER: Potentially Crocodiles and Bilharzia reminds us of where we are. The line we take here is essential as distances are tripled in the Gauntlet. Thus before we start, we must decide whether to approach the 10 checkpoints anti-clockwise, and do the Gauntlet first while everyone is fresh and strong, or clockwise, meaning we’ll do it later in the day when a path has been beaten down by other vehicles.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

We decide to tackle the Gauntlet first. We head straight towards the river, hitting some vertical drop-offs en route before arriving at the riverbed at 860m. Our plan is to drive up the rocky riverbed to our first checkpoint through the deepest channel, confident our engine is waterproof and the snorkel will do its job through chest-deep water. But, just as we are half way across, our left wheel falls into a soft spot. The car lists, momentarily floats, then sinks to the left. The top of the windscreen is now the only thing showing above the water.

We winch out of the river and drain the engine. It splutters bravely to life for a couple of turns then dies. For us, that is the end of Elephant Charge 2016. We will have to wait till next year – and a new engine – before we can try again. But we have loved every minute of it. For more information please visit www.elephantcharge.org

The Bush

tracks te a

m is sub

merged

in the C

hongwe

River

Responsible Tourism

MFUWE JUNIOR FOOTBALL LEAGUE By: Wilson Malambo Photos: Andrew Muswala Photography

bout seven years ago, Ron and Anke Cowan, owners of the Kafunta Lodge in Mfuwe, noticed that their 10 year-old son Luke was sneaking into town to play football with the local boys. Inspired, Ron and a member of his staff got together and formed a team for boys under the age of 13 from the local village and named them “The Super Strikers.” Soon the idea caught on, and local villages started to form their own teams too. The Mfuwe Junior Football League was born. Now there are 20 football teams– divided into under 12s and under 15s – competing at weekends.

The success of bringing sports to the community has spread to girls as well, and the league now counts 10 teams of netballing girls (Under 15s), meaning over 500 kids are involved in sports participation each weekend. To keep the momentum going, the league has obtained land from the local Chief, and a full sport complex is planned. At the moment, the fields have been cleared and the football pitch is ready, as well as two netball courts and one volleyball court. But funds are needed to proceed with the construction of the changing rooms and clubhouse. The league also hopes to provide uniforms to the young athletes. In June of 2011, Project Luangwa, through various fund-raising efforts, generously contributed to this cause by donating colourful kits to the teams. By involving more external partners in the expansion process, Mfuwe can someday boast a top-notch recreation facility that will serve the local community.

Malumbo United Boys who have to leave the league when they reach their 16th birthday don’t have to give up football. They look forward to going to the next level and playing for a team of“all stars”called Malambo United.

Formed in 2012, team coaches get together and select the best players who have passed through the ranks of the league to form “All Stars.” These boys, who are all still in school, compete against much older players at the amateur league level. They will go play in Chipata or even Lusaka, giving them exposure outside their rural areas. In 2014, they played their first-ever international match against Malawi's Under-18 team. The boys were nervous, as this was their first-ever international match. They put on their best performance but unfortunately lost to the visitors (Malawi) by one goal to nil.

To date, Malambo United has won six cups locally. For the last three years, they have placed in the top four in the amateur league in Chipata. Coaches will continue to work with these gifted athletes and ensure that they are able to continue honing their skills and competing on a higher level. Be on the lookout for Malambo United in the sports section of your local newspaper very soon!

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Interview

Five minutes with...

THANDIWE MWEETWA Wildlife Biologist - South Luangwa National Park Who is Thandiwe? I am a 28 year-old wildlife biologist. I was born in a district called Monze in Southern Province.

Briefly tell us about your educational background. I did my primary education at Mazabuka basic school. In 2001, I relocated to Mfuwe where I did my junior secondary school at Yosefee, then proceeded to Saint Monica’s for my senior secondary. I then did an international baccalaureate course, and it lasted for two years. Later I went to Canada, where I studied animal biology at University of British Colombia for four years. Currently, I am studying for my master’s in Wildlife Management at the University of Arizona, USA. What does your job entail? It involves the monitoring of the large carnivore population inside South Luangwa National Park.

Are you doing this for the love of money, or is it out of passion? Hmmm… I think it is passion. I remember in 2002 I made up my mind not to do office work. It’s nice to do the job that I love so much.

In five years’ time, where do you see yourself? I would love to be working in a different part of Zambia where the wildlife eco-system is not so (there needs to be a word here--I think she means “developed.”) A few eco-systems at the moment in Zambia offer opportunities like here in South Luangwa National Park. There is potential in expansion in all those areas for us. Eco-systems like Lavushi-Manda National Park--to see them recovering and animals return.

What has been your career highlight? My career highlight was when I got an award from National Geographic as a 2016 emerging explorer and I spent one week in Washington D.C.

Drawing from your experience, what will you advise to someone who wants to be a naturalist? Firstly, we need more Zambians as conservationists. There are a lot of opportunities in these game areas and it’s a field that is going to be more and more important. My advice to one who wants to be a naturalist? One needs to study hard in sciences and also must have a high tolerance for dust.

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BEHIND THE LENS WITH EDWARD SELFE

The third in our series of photographic tips with Edward Selfe – a veteran guide and photographer from Zambia – looks at breaking away from the camera’s AUTO mode and the possibilities that it brings.

take your camera off auto mode All digital photos are created using light and a balanced combination of aperture (how wide your lens opens), shutter speed (how long it opens for) and ISO (the digital sensitivity of the sensor – like film speed from the old days!). This is the case whether you’re using a new digital SLR or an iPhone. The difference is that with a digital SLR, you have much more control over the balance of each of these settings. Aperture, shutter speed, and ISO all have an impact on the final image, so being able to choose which one to prioritise is beneficial for wildlife photographers.

Because wildlife photography often happens at high speed, there is rarely time for adjusting all three settings and checking the exposure. So below, I’ll outline the most widely used camera set-up for wildlife photography. This set-up, based around aperture mode, simplifies the process but still allows for flexibility when you need it.

Set your lens to its widest aperture (the lowest number e.g. f4 or f5.6), which allows the maximum amount of light into your camera. This is helpful since we often photograph wildlife in the early morning and late evening when the light is soft. It also gives you the shallowest depth of field which is often preferred in wildlife photography to isolate the subject from its background. With your widest aperture set, you are just left with shutter speed and ISO to balance. When you half-press your shutter button, you’ll see your shutter speed indicated in the viewfinder or on the back display. Keep an eye on your shutter speed and use the ISO sensitivity function to adjust it when required. If light levels are low, increase your ISO sensitivity to give you a faster shutter speed. As light levels increase, reduce your ISO to keep the graininess of the image to a minimum (the downside of high ISOs) while still keeping a fast enough shutter speed.

as a guideline...

...the following minimum shutter speeds are needed to ensure a sharp photo which has frozen the movement: - Sunsets - 1/100sec - Static animals - 1/250sec - Elephants - 1/500sec - Antelope - 1/800sec - Animals running - 1/1000sec - Perched birds - 1/1250sec - Birds in flight - 1/1600sec upwards Enjoy your safari!

Get in touch with Edward for more photo advice, photo safari tours and beautiful images! Go to: www.edwardselfephotography.com

Hippo turf WARS

By: Hadley Pierce Photos: Hadley Pierce

outh Luangwa National Park is home to the arguably the highest concentration of hippos in Africa. 1 With an estimated 4850 hippos per kilometre of river, they are a constant fixture in the riverside landscape of the valley. 2 This provides the perfect viewing platform from which to observe the hippo social structure. 1 Open Journal of Ecology Vol.4 No.5(2014), Article ID:45048 2 http://www.zambiatourism. com/about-zambia/wildlife/hippo

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Hippos travel in groups called “pods” which consist of one dominant male presiding over several females and calves. The stretch of river that they occupy is considered the male’s “turf,” and he will vigorously defend it from any potential challengers that may want to mate with his females or take over the territory. In areas that are overcrowded, this requires constant vigilance.

dramatically. Humans contribute to the decline by pumping water out of the river to service nearby settlements. With decreasing amounts of aquatic real estate available, dominant bulls begin to search for deeper pools to move into that are sometimes, unfortunately, already occupied by other bulls. Vigilance turns to aggression. This is when the turf wars heat up.

When a foreign male attempts to As the summer temperatures encroach upon another hippo’s rise, the river’s water levels drop territory, he will tentatively (or

sometimes not so tentatively) advance, making his way closer and closer to the pod. The dominant male interprets this gesture as a brazen challenge, and his first instinct is to scare off the intruder. He will make himself appear as large as possible, walking into shallower water to show off his bulk and opening his jaw as wide as it will stretch to show off his massive canines. This show of force is sometimes enough to send the intruder fleeing. However, as competition for space increases, the dominant males can’t afford to back down. During these times, the challenger will often copy the bull’s aggressive body language and the two will do a mirroring dance until one of them officially declares war.

hide of their rival, causing deep, bleeding gashes to emerge on their faces, necks, and sides. No matter how weak they become, instinct drives these animals to continue fighting to protect their territory. The resulting massively violent altercations often end in deaths.

kilometre down the riverbed. The tenacity, aggression, and raw violence that these animals show towards each other when they fight explains why every dry season, the rangers of the Luangwa Valley find numerous carcasses of hippos that have succumbed to war wounds. With thousands of hippos in In South Luangwa last October, I South Luangwa National Park, it The ensuing action is spectacwatched as a battle wound-rid- is arguably the best place in the ular. The hippos charge at each dled dominant bull defeated an world to photograph or simply other by running along the opponent in a gruesome fight in view the astonishing displays of bottom of the river, creating the river and then unrelentingly aggression that are hippo turf powerful bow waves that rush to chased the bleeding intruder wars. the surface of the water. At the from the water for over a moment of the attack, the hippos erupt from below, thrusting themselves into battle. A deafening thud follows the collision of two 2,500 kg bodies. Soon after, the crackling sounds of bone and ivory become audible. These two enormous animals are fighting to inflict fatal wounds, aiming massive blows to the face and throat in an attempt to do maximum damage. The force of their canines can easily penetrate and rip through the

About the Author... Originally from downtown Boston, Hadley spent her childhood traveling all over the world. She fell in love with the bush at a young age and at 21 decided to move to Africa for good. For the last year and a half, she has been guiding in Southern Africa, taking photographs and writing along the way. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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What motivated you to start in the business? We did not start the business but bought it from a colleague in 1984. It was built by a group of investors domiciled in Ndola. Two shareholders in that group, Chris & Jean Blighnaut, earned their equity by doing all the building. The original lodge began operating in late 1976. Our personal motivation in becoming involved was that I was a participant in the annual Zambia National Fishing Competition and we often stayed at Ndole as we were good friends with Chris and Jean. Thus, having our own place on the lake was a natural progression. Most memorable occasion in Zambia: Barbara was born in Kitwe. I have lived in Zambia since 1956. We have travelled all over Zambia during our time here and it is impossible for us to highlight a single “most memorable” occasion. There have been too many of them over the years. Our time here has been, and hopefully will continue to be, something we will always reflect upon with great fondness. Most remarkable place in Zambia: I guess I am obviously very biased, but this would have to be Ndole Bay Lodge, combined with the wondrous beauty of Lake Tanganyika itself. Contact: Tel +260977711434 E-mail: gerard.zytkow@gmail.com

Fact File Name: Gerard Zytkow Position: Director Company Name:

Ndole Bay Lodge, located on the shores of Lake Tanganyika in the Nsumbu area. Country: Zambia

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Tales from the Bush

Bridge over

Infested

Waters

he ladies and I had grown quite close; they were my mother’s age and came from the same area in the south of England where I had spent my teens. Two days in we’d had a pretty good walking safari and in addition to all the usual plains game, had the great thrill of stalking up to a pride of sleeping lion. We watched them dissolve into Keystone Cops-style disarray when they opened their eyes to find us twenty meters away giggling behind a log. One day later, we were following the Chibembe River south towards Mumbulu Camp racing the sunset.

Two hours earlier, we had stopped for tea and Marie biscuits on the riverbank and shared another extraordinary sighting. Alec Zimba, our scout, pointed to a troop of baboons foraging purposefully along the opposite bank. They moved quickly to a large ebony tree that had fallen to span the river, its roots undermined by the last rainy season. Three or four of the lead males quickly crossed to set up a secure forward HQ on our side. Several mid-ranking baboons stayed on

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

the bridge, alert to any danger, and the mothers with babies on their backs started to cross with the safety marshals egging them on, brooking no dawdlers. Only three or four baboons remained on the far bank when to our stunned surprise, the swirling, foamy, and soupy brown water below the log bridge erupted in a geyser of spray. A twelve-foot crocodile with a head almost a meter long cleanly snatched a trailing sentry in its jaws to a chorus of screams and barking from the rest of the band. With a splash, the crocodile and the baboon were gone and we all exhaled loudly. The memory of this was all too fresh in our minds as now we stood on a spur of the Little Khankonko Lagoon, still an hour from camp with the sun quickly descending towards the tree line. This log bridge, an old marula tree, was generously wide, clear of any lateral branches and cut a raised, stable platform through the carpet of floating Nile cabbage which completely covered the four meters of water between our party and the other side. We had no choice and could not risk the one-hour detour, which would leave us

By: Jake da Motta Photo: Edward Selfe

walking in the dark. We had to cross. Alec nimbly skipped over the bridge belying his seventy years. Placing his old Parker Hale .375 against a tree, he turned and beckoned to the first lady client with both arms open wide. She responded with a nervous smile, but to her credit extended her own arms like a tightrope walker. Keeping her chin up and eyes forward, she walked across the bridge as elegantly as any gymnast and turned to call to her companion, “Come on Jean! Don’t worry, it’s completely fine darling!” Jean stepped gingerly onto the bridge shuffling forward a few inches with her eyes on her feet. I followed closely in case she needed help and at the mid-point, she seemed to find her balance and turned to smile at me—which was her downfall. Her foot slipped, and with her arms flailing and mouth pursed in an open silent scream, she fell sideways off the log and twisted to land on her back on the floating mat of vegetation. It parted to embrace her and I will always remember the utter panic in her eyes. Resembling Our Lady of the Lake, her pallid features were momentarily framed by a curtain in of emerald leaves. In a sec-

ond, that curtain was drawn across her face and she was gone.

I fell to my belly on the log and plunged my hand in after her, grabbing a handful of her safari jacket and hauling her back to the surface. Washen, our ancient tea bearer, joined me on the log and reached down to catch hold of her belt. Together we started to lift her out of the water, but as she cleared the weeds she screamed in horror “Something’s got me!!” and she was snatched from our grip, disappearing again below the shroud of floating Pistia. Twice more we repeated this rescue, poor Jean more terrified each time as she felt herself dragged back into the lagoon by a nameless foe. On the third attempt, her snagged binocular strap finally broke and she rocketed from what she believed to be the jaws of a monstrous reptile into our waiting arms, where she commenced to sob wretchedly. Despite the imminent fall of night, Washen gathered some kindling and lit a fire. A nice cup of tea was definitely in order. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

S hiwa Ngandu

n the spring of 1914, a young British army officer gazed in awe upon one of the most beautiful sights he had ever seen—a magnificent lake, inhabited by crocodiles and surrounded by field and forest where wildlife roamed wild and free. The Bemba name for the lake was Ishiba Ng’andu – The Lake of the Royal Crocodile. He decided there and then to return to build his dream home in this remote area of what was then Northern Rhodesia, a Brit-

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

ish protectorate. And he did. His name was Stewart Gore-Browne and he called his mansion Shiwa Ng’andu.

Gore-Browne returned to Northern Rhodesia in 1920 after World War 1 and construction work began, funded largely by his aunt, Ethel Locke King, to whom he was devoted, and her husband Hugh. We learn of Gore-Browne’s plans and hopes through his frequent letters to Ethel, his muse and mainstay.

However, he was not to remain alone. He brought to Shiwa a young wife, Lorna, whom he had married in England in 1927, the daughter of the real love of his life, Lorna Bosworth Smith. Lorna the Second gave him two daughters, Lorna and Angela. Lorna married John Harvey and they had four children, one of whom, Charlie, together with his wife Jo, now own and run Shiwa. Sadly, the marriage between Charlie’s grandfather and Lorna did not last and they eventually

An Englishman’s African Dream

By: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson Photos: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson

parted company in 1945, Lorna returning to England and leaving the recently knighted Sir Stewart alone to plough a lonely furrow until his death in 1967.

I had known about Shiwa Ng’andu for many years and had even driven past the turnoff way back in 1997. Now I was back and accompanied by my guide, Zambian artist Quentin Allen. Charlie and Jo, farmers who had previously been living outside of

Lusaka, have rescued the property with a great deal of hard work. They moved all their belongings and animals—lock stock, and barrel—to Shiwa in the early 2000s to take up the huge challenge of restoring the house and land to its former glory. They now take paying guests, and I was one of them. Staying at Shiwa is a wonderful experience and Charlie and Jo have breathed new life into the property. Charlie farms 1,600 head of cattle and showed me round in his pick-up truck,

patiently answering all my questions and pointing out some of the resident game.

Shiwa has a stable of well-bred horses and both Jo and Charlie took me riding, clad in borrowed equestrian gear. Jo and I rode up to Sir Stewart’s grave, inscribed with his African nickname Chipembele, meaning “rhinoceros” as he was known for his short, explosive temper. Throughout Shiwa you find rhinos – there is a big sculpture of one in the TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

garden. After my ride with Charlie, we sipped sundowners at sunset by the tranquil lake. The big house can be chilly and draughty, but a fire burned brightly in my bedroom each evening. Renovations are still in progress, but the dining room is in full working order, and we enjoyed delicious home-grown and farm-raised fare. Alternative accommodation is offered on the estate at Kapishya Hot Springs, run by Charlie’s brother Mark and his wife Mel, and if you prefer to self-cater there are facilities at Impandala. Jo is in the process of archiving Shiwa’s irreplaceable treasures, which include Sir Stewart’s books, diaries and fascinating

photograph albums. I could have spent hours in his library, intrigued by his detailed records. A book is planned: Sir Stewart’s own eloquent words will tell Shiwa’s true story. Today, Shiwa stands as proud testament to an ideal. Firm yet fair,

“restoring...its former glory”

stern yet sensitive, Sir Stewart was a highly respected visionary, whose fight for equality among races came to fruition with independence in 1964 when his great friend Kenneth Kaunda was installed as the first president of the beautiful country we now know as Zambia.

About the Author...

Photo captions: Previous page: Shiwa Ngandu, Sir Stewart Gore-Browne’s African dream home, now restored to its former grandeur by his grandson Charlie Harvey and his wife Jo. Below left: The impressive library at Shiwa Ngandu contains Sir Stewart’s extensive collection of books and his fascinating diaries and photograph albums. Below right top: Sir Stewart’s grave. His nickname, Chipembele, means ‘rhinoceros’ in the local language. Below right bottom: The magnificent setting of Ishiba Ng’andu, the ‘Lake of the Royal Crocodile’, was the inspiration behind the building of the manor house, Shiwa Ngandu, and the establishment of an estate run with military precision by Sir Stewart GoreBrowne.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Project Luangwa is a charitable organisation formed by a group of Safari Operators of South Luangwa as a part of their commitment to responsible tourism. Their aim is to create an effective, coordinated approach to helping local communities improve their long term economic prospects whilst avoiding a negative impact on the environment and wildlife. Members: Shenton Safaris, Robin Pope Safaris, Flatdogs, Kafunta, Croc Farm The Project Luangwa Craft Workshop is situated in the main Mfuwe Area, near the South Luangwa National Park.

Women are given full time employment and taught craft and sewing skills; making bags, gifts and the Ufulu range of washable menstruation pads.

Products from the project’s workshop, local craftsmen and small creative businesses are on sale to the tourists visiting the South Luangwa.

In The Frame

Photo: Peter Geraerdts

DID YOU KNOW? Survival of the Fittest and The Chase is on!

This picture illustrates one male Puku chasing another Puku for the right to mate. Two Impala rams are clashing horns at the same time, for the same reason. Boys will be boys!

Safari News Gold - Best Value Safari Property in Africa 2017 Every year the Safari Awards are held in London. Industry experts and safari-goers vote for the best camps and lodges in various categories. This year Flatdogs Camp won “Best Value Safari Property in Africa 2017.” This is fantastic news for Flatdogs Camp and Zambia. Zambia is a destination still relatively unheard of internationally, so this award will help draw attention to the country as a whole.

The award is recognition that we provide affordable safaris with great guiding and high quality accommodation and meals for all.

2nd Runner Up - Best Community Focused Company in Africa 2017 We, at Norman Carr Safaris, are proud to receive this important award as we continue to follow in the footsteps of our founder Norman Carr, who pioneered community-based tourism in Zambia. We strive to educate our guests about the social and ecological realities of their surroundings, and to demonstrate the far-reaching benefits that tourism brings to remote people and places.

Through our sponsorship programme, conservation education, academic and social support for adolescent girls, and assistance to families with disabled children, we hope to make meaningful and relevant impacts in the entire South Luangwa ecosystem.

Bronze - Most Romantic Safari Property in Africa 2017 Sausage Tree Camp is proud to have recently been awarded Bronze for Most Romantic Safari Property in Africa at the 2017 Good Safari Guide Awards. Renowned for our luxurious Honeymoon Suites (which are worth marrying for) and our attention to detail, we strive to make each guest’s stay as memorable and extraordinary as possible. Celebrating a honeymoon, anniversary, birthday or special occasion we love being able to surprise guests by ensuring that what is often a once in a lifetime holiday is one they will never forget. www.sausagetreecamp.com / reservations@sausagetreecamp.com

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edwardselfephotography.com

Zambia’s Original Independent Destination Management Company zambiangroundhandlers.com

ISSUE 6 - JAN - MARCH 2017

Articles inside

Shiwa Ngandu

Hippo Turf Wars

Five Mintues with Thandiwe Mweetwa

African Pride

Mfuwe Junior Football League

Elephant Charge 2016

What to do if attacked by hippo

Tourism Development in Zambia

Lake Kariba: The Perfect Weekend Getaway

Face to Face with Gentle Giants