TRAVEL & LEISURE
ZAMBIA JULY - SEPT 2017 | EDITION 8
Zambia:
MY LIVINGSTONE ADVENTURE
LIUWA PLAIN
Africa’s Greatest Secret
WORLD RANGER DAY Consider the
ANTELOPE
Kafue River Lodge sits within 143 hectares of private grounds on the banks of its namesake river, bordering the Kafue National Park. As part of the vast Lunga Luswishi Game Management Area, a range of driving, boating and walking safaris are offered to enable guests to get up close to a stunning diversity of flora and fauna. The lodge’s four rustic-chic chalets each open onto a teak sundeck, come with two comfy queen beds and a fireplace, and are peppered with wooden furniture handcrafted on site by Zambian carpenters. Towards the rear of every cosy dwelling is an indoor bathroom with a freestanding bath, while an outdoor shower offers spectacular views of the bushveld. Graced by a large teak sundeck, the lodge’s main lapa and neighbouring bar and lounge overlook the river. Delicious meals can be enjoyed in the lapa, on the decking or outside under the velvety star-studded skies. The lodge also offers bush breakfasts, lunches and even dinners on the surrounding plains and islands.
www.kafueriver.com / kafueriver@iwayafrica.com / paul@pioneercampzambia.com
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA / JULY - SEPT 2017
CONTENTS Features
Zambia’s Water World: Lake Tanganyika By Craig Zytkow
06
Five Minutes with By Andrew Muswala
Tribal Textiles - Where Art Meets Wildlife 08 By Bongi Kellner
Behind The Lens 25 By Edward Selfe
Zambia: My Livingstone Adventure By Arjan Mulder
10
Liuwa Plain: Africa’s Greatest Secret By Mindy Roberts
Swimming Under The Victoria Falls By Johannes Stallmann
18
World Ranger Day By Katherine Johnston
A Restaurant In The Bush 20 By Adrian Coley
Consider The Antelope By Kathy G Mills
Talking of Livingstone By Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson
The Lake Of Stars By Stephanie Naidoo
22
30
I.F.C.
Kafue River Lodge
15
People & Places
01
Southern Sun Ridgeway
15
Royal Air Charters
02
Remote Africa Safaris
21
Kaingu Safari Lodge
03
Bundu Adventure Specialists
23
Edward Selfe Photography
05
Ndole Bay Lodge
27 Betaspace
05
Mama Tembo Tours Zambia
36
13
Chiawa Camp & Old Mondoro
I.B.C
Mukambi
B.C.
Pioneer Camp
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
Proflight
26
28
Advertisers Index
2
24
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A word from the MD ZAMBIA Publisher Safari Magazine
Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala andrew@zambiatravelmag.com Sub-Editor Ceri Putman ceriputman@googlemail.com Layout and Art Director Gemma Beardsall gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk Consultant Jo Pope popejo@gmail.com
Subscriptions ads@zambiatravelmag.com +260 977 308 711 / 0967 173 796
Welcome to the eighth edition of Travel & Leisure Zambia.
Zambia’s tourism products still remain relatively unknown but the country is one of the best tourist destinations in the world, offering a variety of authentic benefits including wildlife, adventure, culture and heritage sites. The city of Livingstone is known for its adventure opportunities. Our cover story (p10) invites you to take a trip with Arjan Mulder, sharing his exploits as he takes an ultralight flight over the Victoria Falls and encounters rhinos at close quarters. Take a deep breath and plunge with Johanness Stallmann into the rock pools below the Victoria Falls (p16). Learn about Lake Tanganyika, often described as Africa’s inland sea and world-renowned for its amazing clear waters and piscine life. It’s the only place in Zambia where one can go SCUBA diving, and other activities on the lake include kayaking, wakeboarding and kitesurfing (p6).
Elsewhere we take a cultural journey with Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson as she talks to Chief Chitambo IV (p22). We also look at Liuwa Plain National Park (p26) and chat with Zambia’s first black canoe guide in the Lower Zambezi National Park (p24). 31st July is World Ranger Day and a time to celebrate the personal courage and sacrifice made by wildlife rangers in the line of duty (p28).
Malawi Uncovered (p32) is our addition to the magazine and we will be taking a look at various tourism products found in this warm-hearted country. HAPPY READING!
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Contributors Edward Selfe, Kathy G Mills, Janet Mwanza, Craig Zytkow, Mindy Roberts, Stephanie Naidoo / Robin Pope Safaris, Dana Allen, Adrian Coley, Johannes Stallmann, Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson, Bongi Kellner, Katherine Johnston, Tristan Vince, Arjan Mulder, Time + Tide / Uncaged Africa, African Parks / Peter Fernhead, Will Burrard – Lucas. We would like to thank Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson for her help in editing articles for this issue. Printers Impumelelo Print Solutions (Pty) Ltd Unit 7 Kings Court 52 Mineral Crescent, Crown Ext.5 Johannesburg South Africa +27 11 839 4414
Copyright Copyright © All right for material appearing in this magazine belongs to Travel and Leisure Zambia and / or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or with due acknowledgment.
On the cover
Swimming under the Falls Photo credit: Bundu Adventures
D I S C O V E R a tropical paradise in Zambia
lake tanganyika Ndole Bay Lodge is an exquisite owner managed lodge on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, Zambia. The lodge is situated just outside Nsumbu National Park amongst lush tropical gardens, opening onto an exclusively private beach. Luxury beach front chalets through to a gorgeous campsite make the Tanganyika dream affordable to all and there is no comparable experience than through Ndole Bay. We offer guests their choice of a personal Tanganyika immersion, from the untamed wilds of Nsumbu National Park, SCUBA diving with the world’s greatest diversity of freshwater life, angling for feisty fish found nowhere else to relaxing on the beach with a cocktail or immersing in the culture of the local peoples of Tanganyika that has not changed in millennia. We live for Tanganyika and there is no greater reward than sharing this astounding destination with our guests.
Website: www.ndolebaylodge.com
Contact: info@ndolebaylodge.com
Privately guided road safaris include all the Zambian adventures you miss by flying
MT Cheza, MTTZ’s Lusaka Guest House Start your safari in the city w w w.MTTSafaris .com +260 (0) 962 831 707
ZAMBIA’S WATER WORLD
Lake Tanganyika By: Craig Zytkow Photos: Ndole Bay Lodge
L
ake Tanganyika is often described as Africa’s inland sea and its sheer size, age and depth surely merit this description. Often, however, it is not realised that this includes the amazing diversity of activities available to keep the discerning traveller occupied and enthralled.
Imagine a tropical island with beaches, swaying palms, crystal-clear waters and thousands of colourful fish. To this add the African bush in the background, with elephants, antelopes, fish eagles and dassies (rock hyrax), and lastly include a touch of the Swahili coast, with dhows and fishermen in the open waters. Now you have an idea what Lake Tanganyika is and what it offers.
The lake is world-renowned for its amazing clear waters and astounding array of piscine life, especially the ancient family of fishes known as cichlids. And it is perhaps the only place in Zambia where one can go snorkelling. Lake Tanganyika is also a growing destination for SCUBA diving and dive training. The remote coastline between Mpulungu and Nsumbu offers some of the best in water experiences, with towering escarpments dropping into dramatically deep waters. The lack of strong currents, coupled with
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a variety of subterranean life that includes giant perch through to tiny shrimp, makes Tanganyika the perfect place to learn how to dive, or for experienced divers to descend to the depths.
Above the surface there is just as much to fuel an adrenaline-filled day. For instance, wakeboarding, kitesurfing, kayaking and sailing are all available at various locations and lodges on the lake. During the summer months the lake often glasses over, providing a flat sheet for water sports, when the water is at its cleanest. With no real winter, the slightly cooler months of June through August are just as attractive for activities, with clear skies and sun-filled days, making the water inviting all year round.
Many have heard of Kalambo Falls, the second highest waterfall in Africa, but for the visitor who’s after a challenge, the two-hour hike from the shores of the lake to the lip of the falls makes it all the more rewarding. Indeed, the hiking around Lake Tanganyika offers vistas and views that are hard to believe, never mind beat. Izi, Keso, Chika and Muzinga are all waterfalls that make for great hiking destinations that start and end in the cool, clear waters of the lake, and you are almost guaranteed to be the only person there. No talk of Tanganyika is complete without a fishy tale. Lake Tanganyika has long lured anglers from around
the world with promises of giant perch and tiger fish, or the unique emperor cichlids that are as feisty on a line as they are colourful. These unique endemic fish are what makes angling here so attractive, offering a chance to catch one of a dozen species in an environment that is as beautiful as it is exclusive. For the seriously competitive, the Zambia National Fishing Competition is held in March every year and attracts over 50 fishermen testing their skills against each other and Kapembwa, the ancient spirit of the lake.
If Lake Tanganyika is the jewel at the northern tip of Zambia, then Nsumbu National Park is its shining diamond. A forgotten park, it encompasses some 100 kms of coastline with the most achingly beautiful beaches and coves within its protected area, and a wilderness stretching into the distant mountains. A conservation partnership between a local NGO - Conservation Lake Tanganyika - and the Department of National Parks and Wildlife has made remarkable strides in ensuring that Nsumbu remains a wildlife haven, and elephants swimming in this ancient lake are no longer a rare sight. Nsumbu provides an endless adventure destination in itself. If all of the above sounds like too much adventure and hard work, lazing on a hammock or beach towel between cool dips in the lake is just as easy; and just as hard to ignore.
How to get there...
By Road: •
•
•
Via the great North Road through Mpika and Kasama. From Kasama follow the tar road to Mpulungu or go via Mporokoso to the small township of Nsumbu near Ndole Bay Lodge. Make the most of the northern waterfalls and drive via Luapula province, through Kawambwa and Mporokoso or Nchelenge and Kaputa to Nsumbu. By Bus to Mpulungu.
By Air: •
•
Proflight flies 4 times a week from Lusaka and Ndola to Kasama. From Kasama it is possible to get a taxi to Mpulungu and onwards by boat to one of the lodges. Private charter flight from anywhere in Zambia to Nkamba airstrip in Nsumbu National Park.
There is now a public ferry that travels between Mpulungu in the east and Nsumbu in the west. The “Stella” or “Gianula” boats travel in both directions every day, taking around 5 hours and costing K50 per person. Ndole Bay Lodge provides free pickups and drop-offs from the Nsumbu harbour.
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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s shop Tribal Textile
TRIBAL TEXTILES - Where Art Meets Wildlife!
By: Bongi Kellner Photos: Edward Selfe
T
he South Luangwa National Park in Zambia is one of the finest safari destinations in Africa. And just outside its gates lies a hidden gem: alongside lodges, camps and food markets is Tribal Textiles, one of the most inspiring companies you may ever come across.
wildlife, and the flora and fauna of Zambia’s nature. You may be asking yourself what makes Tribal Textiles worth a visit.
A trip to Tribal will allow you not only to browse an impressive selection of authentic African products, but also to witness every step of production, from the mixing of the colours to the hand-drawing and painting of each piece. The product range is diverse and Tribal offers something for every room Tribal Textiles produces a breathtaking in your house; perhaps a wash bag for array of beautiful hand-painted fabrics your bathroom, cushions for your sofas, and home furnishings that serve as a napkins for your table or a range of perfect souvenir from the African bush. bright and colourful gifts for children. Inspiration for their designs is derived from African art and culture, Zambian If you’re looking for a fun addition to
your safari in the Valley then consider a Tribal Textiles Art Safari. This hugely enjoyable experience offers you the chance to design and paint your own cushion cover, bag or wall hanging, with as much (or as little) help as you need from the local resident artists. Equally popular with youngsters and adults, it’s a safari unlike any other and can even be squeezed between morning and afternoon game drives to ensure you don’t miss out on anything. The company has grown dramatically since it was established 25 years ago by Gillie Lightfoot under a baobab tree on the banks of the Luangwa. Tribal now boasts an online shop, and a thriving export business, shipping to dozens of
countries around the world. Of course, the company has also expanded the number of artists to accommodate its production growth. Today it employs over 100 local men and women, making it one of the biggest employers in the South Luangwa valley. Tribal takes great pride in sourcing ethically African-made products and it is a big supporter of local artisans and craft groups. The shop sells a wide range of Zambian artisan products, including celebrated snare-wire jewellery by Mulberry Mongoose, hand-made soaps and candles by Azimai, beautiful eco-friendly hand-carved bowls by Elephant Wood, and gorgeous jewellery and leather bags by founder Gillie Lightfoot. The company supports several local
community projects and is proud to co-fund and help administrate the nearby Malimba community school which educates over 500 students, many of whom have parents working at Tribal.
and ‘shop ‘til you drop’ in their beautiful showrooms. The shop is open every day from 07.00 to 16.30 and free tours of the workshop, led by the artisans themselves, are available on weekdays and Saturday mornings.
Tribal’s location on the road to the airport makes it easily accessible at any point during your stay. Stop by on your way into or out of Mfuwe, or better still take an afternoon to do an art safari
Follow Tribal Textiles on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest or shop online via their website www.tribaltextiles.co.zm. Best of all though – go and see them for yourself!
Talented members of the local community are also invited to sell their wares direct to visitors in the artisan market in the grounds of Tribal’s own production facility. This charming rustic market offers guests the chance to watch artisans at work - from wood carvers and basket weavers to metal welders; there’s plenty to see.
For those not so keen on shopping, you can put your feet up in the delightful courtyard café and enjoy some fresh Zambian coffee, along with a selection of international and local dishes cooked on site by the lovely Dorica, a local legend in Mfuwe. So whatever you’re looking for, Tribal Textiles is definitely worth a taste.
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Colourful kids
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work
The in
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ZAMBIA
By: Arjan Mulder, Travel Writer - The Netherlands Photos: Arjan Mulder
Sunset over the Zambezi River - Livingstone
e n o t s g n i v i L e My r u t n e v d A
L
ivingstone means adventure; this I now know. After a great safari experience in Kafue National Park, I came to relax by the banks of the Zambezi River, where Zambia meets Zimbabwe. It felt different. The river, which explorer David Livingstone followed when he encountered the giant Victoria Falls in November 1855, gave me a real thrill.
Ultralight over Victoria Falls
I carefully boarded the fragile ‘plane, made of pipes and cloth, and put on my headphones. “Welcome on board. Hold on to the frame during takeoff,” instructed my pilot. And off we go! My pilot tells me that he has been flying over wildlife parks for years to track poachers. These ‘planes are small, manoeuvrable and quiet. Well, unless you’re almost on top of the propeller, like me. This is truly ‘Out of Africa’. We fly
“Dr. Livingstone, I presume?”
Close encounter. Rhinos in the bush at 10 metres. Scary…
Ultralight flying over the Victoria Falls; the ultimate experience.
I arrived at Livingstone early in the morning, having come from Kafue National Park and Lusaka. And the first thing I did after landing was to book another flight - straight away. I wanted to see Victoria Falls from above – in an ultralight. It’s not cheap, but I think it will be the best way to see this
thundering water. I was told that because the water disappears over a vast width in a narrow gap, it’s difficult to see from the ground and you just get very wet.
over hippos and cranes; we see the ever-present rainbow over the falls, and people bungee jumping from the railway bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe. I’m totally knocked out and enjoy every minute. Fifteen minutes feel like a whole day.
After this magnificent experience, I go walking along the waterfall, and indeed I do get soaking wet from the huge amount of spray. And I don’t see too much of the falls. I’m so happy with my ultralight flight and it is really difficult to get good pictures from the ground. Besides, your camera must
be waterproof; and yourself too. I am really happy with my own aerial photos.
Rhino encounter - just ten metres
“Do not move, no noises.” Well, I keep quiet. I’m walking through dense scrub with a number of heavily armed rangers when I suddenly stumble into four sturdy rhinos. They do not look aggressive, but disturbed by the least noise or a single movement they could easily bridge the 10 metres to me in less than two seconds. I prefer to avoid that. What a TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Livingstone - enjoying the style For me, Zambia means ‘pure Africa’. I was sleeping between lions, standing eye-to-eye with four rhinoceros and I was flying over the Victoria Falls. And even without a bungee jump (I would never do that in my life) this has been an intense experience. Fortunately, I can enjoy the end of my Zambian trip in style. I go back to Victorian times, and enjoy myself colonial- style. Around Victoria Falls, it’s all possible. Spend the night in the sublime Royal Livingstone Hotel, with a colonial number of staff, great luxury and the most perfect view of the eternal rainbow over the Victoria Falls; and have your dinner in the Royal Livingstone Express, the classic steam train with wooden interiors, over 100 years old, while passing the historic bridge. Finally, fly around and watch the wildlife from above... Help, I don’t want to return to Holland!
Close encounter. Rhinos in the bush at 10 metres. Scary…
Dining in (colonial) style in the Royal Livingstone Express train.
You can see the Victoria Falls from the terrace of the Royal Livingstone Hotel.
great experience, and coming from ‘safe’ Europe this to me is the ultimate thrill. I realise that perhaps I’m putting the animals at risk by walking here with armed rangers, but actually nothing ever happens. The rangers know the animals; they can read their behaviour. “Now move on, slowly! Around that bush. Stay close to me!” That’s a good idea... let me do that. A little bit hyperactive, I return to the Land Rover. The rangers disappear into the bushes. Wow. I never expected an encounter like this during a stay that was meant to be ‘relaxing’. Zambia is becoming a kind of rollercoaster for me, with experiences touching my innermost being. This continues even when walking in one of the many traditional villages around here, where the chief is still the boss. His laws are above the laws of the official government. He judges, and if the tribe no longer likes him he is poisoned. Meanwhile, women peacefully peel peanuts, children play a game of mancala and men carve wooden images.
Profile Arjan Mulder is a travel writer living in The Netherlands. His traveling and writing are motivated by untouched nature and inspiring cultures worldwide. Personal experience and emotion are leading in all his writing. He also is a staff member at the University of Applied Sciences in Enschede.
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SWIMMING UNDER
By: Johannes Stallmann Photos: Johannes Stallmann
Paddling across the ‘Boiling Pot’ to the Victoria Falls
The Victoria Falls
The master carver is still at work, continuously shaping and re-shaping. Currently, he is hard at work on the western end of the Falls, at Devil’s Cataract, where the next fissure in the basalt rock is slowly being eroded. We will not be around to witness its new location, but believe it or not, Victoria Falls is definitely moving; moving upstream…. eventually.
There are various ways to admire this awe-inspiring natural wonder. Viewing the Victoria Falls from the top of the gorge is like standing in front of a masterpiece in a museum. If you want to see the master at work; if you want to feel the power of the tools used in the carving, you have to go down and view the Falls from the bottom of the gorge. Swimming in the rock pools below the Falls, surrounded by the massive black basaltic rock towering up above, and
Bundu Adventures, based in Livingstone, is the concessionaire of this activity that is only possible on the Zambian side of the Victoria Falls. The trip starts with a safety talk and kitting you out with a life jacket, paddle and a helmet. On the walk down the Batoka Gorge there are beautiful vistas of the historic bridge and the Zambezi River below. With a bit of luck you might spot a colourful bird, the Narina trogon (Apaloderma narina), in the green foliage of the dense vegetation.
After embarking into the inflatable rafts, we paddle across the ‘boiling pot’ and right out underneath the cascades; the view is amazing. You will be accompanied by an experienced guide and a helper throughout the tour, and there’s an opportunity to swim and relax in the rock pools directly below the waterfalls. Swimming under the Falls is only possible in the low-water season, from August to December, depending on the water levels of the Zambezi River.
And while you are down there, why not take a rollercoaster white-water rafting trip downstream through the Batoka Gorge? The Zambezi River is famous for the grade 5 rafting that it offers; described by many as the best white-water rafting experience on the planet. The rafting trip is also a journey back in geological time, as you will pass other gorges further downstream where the ‘Victoria Falls’ was located many thousands of years ago. If you add wings to your imagination you will still hear the ‘Smoke-thatthunders’ , where now the augur buzzard soars and the Taita falcon hovers over its prey…
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Down in the Gorge under the Victoria Falls
t was approximately 150 million years ago when volcanic eruptions shook the supercontinent scientists have called Gondwanaland or Gondwana. Red hot magma poured out from beneath the earth’s crust and covered huge areas of what we now see as southern Africa. Some of this magma covered the Victoria Falls area, leaving a thick sheet of fissured basalt rock after cooling. Once the Zambezi River started flowing over this basalt sheet, the cracks and fissures in the basalt offered the ideal starting points where erosional forces slowly weathered away the rock over many millennia. The Zambezi River carved, ground and scoured its way into the basalt sheet, leaving us with the magnificent Batoka Gorge, and the Victoria Falls as its crowning achievement of artistic toil.
The ‘Rainbow Falls’
Taking a shower under the Falls
I
the water cascading down - seemingly out of the sky - is an unforgettable experience.
Chibembe Wildlife Estates Imagine a beautiful place not too far away. Wild savannah stretches before you for miles and miles. The sky above is clear, the sun only an amber glow slipping behind a fuchsia curtain – the horizon draped over the escarpment. Nothing can be heard, except the chuntering of hippos from the Luangwa river, the distinctive call of the African fish eagle and the gentle chirping of crickets before nightfall. And where are you? At home. Born out of a desire to create a multi-generational family safari experience, Wilderness Trails has embarked on a two-year project to develop Chibembe Wildlife Estates; your home away from home that is both an investor’s dream and every nature lover’s fantasy. Situated 20 kilometres north of Chikwinda Gate in the Nsefu Sector of the South Luangwa National Park, Chibembe is the site where the very first walking safaris in Africa were conducted under the watchful eye of the legendary guide Norman Carr, who pioneered the idea of taking people to look at animals rather than to shoot them. In the same spirit of nature conservation, Wilderness Trails seeks to create a harmonious existence between man and animal, striking a fine balance between modern architectural design, technology and eco-friendliness. The estate of 18 safari houses will be built over an expansive 850 acres of land, 55 acres of which will be sub-divided into 18 plots averaging three acres each, with a minimum 65 metres of river frontage. Furthermore, home owners will have a choice of three expertly designed house plans to build a safari-style home of four or five bedrooms, perched 1.4 metres above ground, allowing full view of the wandering wildlife. When the family is at home, each house will have a housekeeper, and a nanny if required, a community scout and safari guides on hand to conduct game walks or drives. Facilities will also include laundry services, solar-powered internet and medical evacuation – readily available at a moment’s notice. And when absent from your piece of safari paradise, your house can be placed in the rental pool for local and international family groups of tourists in order to generate income. This may be looked upon as investment return. Target returns for home owners of Chibembe Wilderness houses are eight per cent of their total investment per annum, should the property be developed within the development guidelines and rented out through the Wilderness Trails’ management service. So you see, there is finally a place where you can go to simply tune out – and it is called home.
Need to know more? Further information can be obtained from the Wilderness Trails Limited office by emailing chibembe@chibembe. com or calling Carol Hamaimbo on +260 (0) 96 4665578. South African investors should contact James Arnott on +27(0) 83 625 8078 or james@chibembe.com. UK/EU investors should contact Henry Hallward on henry@chibembe.com or +44 7776 131807. Interested investors can view the plans and photographs of Chibembe at the Homenet offices in Lusaka. Appointments with Janet or Adrian can be arranged by calling +260 211 (0) 963 100957. A call for expressions of interest is currently open until the end of July. This can be done through the website: www.chibembe.com. An investor pack will be sent to interested parties with site visits to Chibembe in August for interested investors. Having viewed the properties, investors will then be invited to bid for the property they wish to buy. Successful bidders will be contacted in September to finalise property transfers.
F
latdogs Camp has always had a different way of doing things. When we started life, our guests were mostly independent travellers who liked to be able to pick and choose what they wanted to do. This extended to the way they ate; so of course we gave people what they wanted. Choice! Now people expect to have great food when they are on safari and luckily this fits in with our love of food and cooking. We are one of the few safari lodges that has an à la carte restaurant, enabling us to really make the most of the fantastic local produce available. By working with suppliers in the area, we have helped create a new supply chain that we could not have imagined ten years ago; and we serve fresh vegetables grown by local people who are benefiting from tourism. Depending on the season, we can get everything from asparagus to zucchini!
A Restuarant in the Bush
By: Adrian Coley Photos: Flatdogs Camp
All our beef and pork come from a farm in Chipata, where the animals are raised free range. We source free-range eggs from a youth development centre who teach local youths methods of farming - as well as building and carpentry skills. And we have some of the best beef products in the world that come to us after being dry-aged for over 20 days.
Recently, we have found a free-range duck supplier in Lusaka, and some locally-raised rabbit was on the menu a few days ago. And we offer a variety of different cuisines as well. See below an example of what we might have on the ‘Specials’ board.
Rabbit Ravioli – home-made pasta filled with herbed rabbit, served with a sherry and mushroom-cream sauce Pork Meatballs – Asian-style meatballs in a fragrant broth with stir-fried vegetables and egg noodles
Our chefs are all trained in-house, and during the busy months in camp are serving over 100 covers a day as most guests eat in the restaurant three times a day. By having a ‘Daily Specials’ menu we change the choices offered every day, and this keeps the chefs constantly interested and challenged. Our chefs make all our bread, fresh pasta, cakes, nachos, tortillas, etc. We make our own chutneys and our famous chilli sauce and fresh mayonnaise to sell with the home-made fish cakes. We smoke our own trout fillets as part of a smoked trout salad, and we slow-cook beef cheeks for our home-made chilli con carne, working constantly with the suppliers to find new ways of using every part of the animals we are lucky enough to have available to us.
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We have to remind ourselves that none of the chefs has ever eaten in a proper restaurant where they might be able to sample this type of food, but they eagerly acquire so much knowledge that we are constantly surprised; and our guests constantly spoiled!
Talking of Livingstone An Audience with Chief Chitambo By: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson Photos: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson
N
othing Venture.1 It seemed sensible to follow the credo of my old college motto on my quest to meet an African chief. But the present Chief Chitambo IV (Freddy Chisenga) is no ordinary chief. He is the great-great grandson of Chief Chitambo, who magnanimously received the frail and sick David Livingstone into his village in northern Zambia in 1873; the explorer died soon after. I had read that a meeting was possible; but what to do? Meeting an African chief is no straightforward 1. Title of Principal Dorothy Neville-Rolfe’s book.
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undertaking and despite asking my contacts in Zambia for advice, none was forthcoming. Solution: just pitch up at the chief’s village and hope for the best. And so we did.
Early one morning my guide, the acclaimed Zambian artist Quentin Allen, and I set off from Kasanka National Park, following the signs to Chief Chitambo’s village. Upon arrival we were greeted by the kapasa, the chief’s messenger responsible for checking visitors’ credentials and through whom to apply for an audience. My interest in Livingstone, inspired by the Royal Geographical Society, was my line of approach, and I was delighted when the kapasa showed us to an open-sided enclosure, asking us to wait. We waited under an hour before the kapasa returned, with good news. But
that’s not all; a strict code of behaviour is required upon meeting the chief. The kapasa had briefed us: kneel down with foreheads to the ground and upon command clap twice; then clap twice again and stand up.
Chief Chitambo IV was seated on a white plastic chair, dressed in a smart grey suit and tie, a carved wooden walking stick beside him; it was apparent later that he is quite lame. But what intrigued me were his purplelensed sunglasses. He is a good-looking, courteous and well-spoken man in his early seventies, and, after making obeisance, I felt privileged when permission was given to use my tape recorder and conduct an interview. I started by asking him about David Livingstone and he replied: “My great,
great grandfather (who) received Livingstone when he came in 1873 was Chief Chitambo. He welcomed Livingstone and gave him a site where he could rest. Unfortunately he was tired. At the age of 60, sadly David Livingstone died in our area. He was welcome. He brought Christianity in our country, Zambia. He assisted to abolish slavery. Through that way we remember David Livingstone…We still recognise him as our great, great father of Zambia.”
I queried the truth that Livingstone was praying when he died, or was this just a story. The chief replied: “It’s not a story as such. Being a Christian, every day and every time he is up in the morning he must remember to pray. He was found praying, kneeling under the mpundu tree, by his followers Chuma
and Susi.”
“Have you taken people to the Memorial?” I wondered. “Yes,” he said. “I have taken people. I always take whenever I have time, but the lady there has been assigned by National
“Meeting an African chief is no straightforward undertaking”
Monuments to explain and guide and answer questions, so now I’m happy.” The chief put me right on the rules of succession. I thought he would automatically take over from his father
but he corrected me: “No, no it’s not like that. I took over from my uncle, or my sister can take over, or the brother, this is how we go about it. A selection, not election: selection by the family.”
I questioned: “What, as chief, is your particular interest for your people?” He replied: “After the death of my uncle, they selected me to come and take over the ruling of this chiefdom which has more then 300,000 people. At least we can have a school or a high school because education leads to better living. And we have really made progress as I visit their villages once a year to emphasise the maintenance of their houses, to keep their environment clean, to have water, drinking water, dammed, and then covered, drawn by a bucket.” He is certainly a chief for our time.
Picture (left): Sign in the grounds of the village of the present Chief Chitambo. Picture (middle): Chief Chitambo IV, the great-great grandson (or perhaps grandnephew) of the highly respected Chief Chitambo whose place in history is assured for his part in the story of David Livingstone. Picture (right): Pictured in November 1936, this is the very elderly Chief Chitambo, whose uncle, it is thought, graciously welcomed the dying explorer into his village in 1873. He was very young at the time of Livingstone’s arrival but in his statement, given to District Commissioner T.S.L. Fox Pitt on 7.2.36 and translated into English, Chitambo records that he remembered Livingstone’s arrival and death. I quote from his statement: “He (Livingstone) came in cold season (May) and crossed the Lulimala in a boat… Chitambo my uncle the Chief said to the Bwana’s man, ‘You must stay here for mourning.’ They mourned for two days.” Picture and information courtesy of the Shiwa archives, by kind permission of Charlie and Jo Harvey. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Interview
Five minutes with...
LEONARD KALIO Head Guide - Baines River Camp We talk to Zambia’s first black canoe guide in the Lower Zambezi National Park, who has been guiding for 26 years. Where were you born? I was born in Lusaka in the house; it was a traditional birth.
Tell us about your family? I come from a family of nine – five boys and four girls - and I am the fourth-born. I am married to Loveness Kalikoga (Kalio) for 19 years now and we have four children, three girls and one boy. Tell us about your work? I am the head guide here at Baines River Camp and I have been the head guide here since 2008. My role is guiding - game drives, walking safaris, canoe safaris - and I also teach other guides here at camp about guiding in general. What inspires you? The love for nature is my biggest inspiration.
Have you had any scary encounters? No, not any, but I have had situations which were not really scary encounters because that is what wild animals are.
Where did your love for the tourism industry come from? Purely by coincidence. When I came to live with my grandmother in Mugurameno village in Chiawa chiefdom, someone came into the village to look for boys to help with camp building. I was identified by one white manager who thought I could do guiding. He gave me books to read and he was teaching me as he was my senior guide. I was the first black Zambian canoe guide in the Lower Zambezi National Park and I have been a safari guide for 26 years guiding in the Lower Zambezi National Park.
What makes your job challenging? Clients who are not very co-operative, who think they are more knowledgeable and have spent more time in the bush than the guide.
BEHIND THE LENS WITH EDWARD SELFE ...Get Low It’s one of most common recommendations offered to aspiring wildlife photographers....”Get low, below the subject’s eye level or even lower if possible”. This has given rise to the common sight of a vehicle full of photography enthusiasts descending the side-steps and throwing themselves on the ground with their cameras to get that low-angle shot they’re looking for.
And yes, I will admit, the effect is dramatic: compared to looking ‘down’ on the animal from above, the angle is flattering, giving more focus on the subject and often rendering the background nice and blurry. And there we hit the crux of the issue for me: blurry backgrounds are heavily sought after in wildlife photography because they draw the eye to the subject and remove the ‘messy’ background bushes and scrub. But, I think they are also sought after because they represent the effect generated by the large telephoto lenses in which professionals have invested for their craft. I absolutely agree that being able to isolate the background to focus attention is a useful capability, but I don’t think it means that any portrait of an animal with a buttery background is necessarily a good image. Take this leopard image for example (top):
This image of a leopardess has nice background blur and the leopard’s pose is good, but it is not much more than a simple portrait. If the subject was an antelope, it’s doubtful any of us would have kept it! For me, the low angle is much more about getting an angle on the subject which is natural, seeing the animal eye-to-eye rather than from the safety of our lofty height. I also like to show animals in their environment - the leopard above could be on any open plain worldwide and you wouldn’t be able to tell. For this reason, getting low down shows the environment behind the subject rather than below it. Have a look at this impala image here (middle):
This simple scene of impalas quietly feeding would be nothing at all without the arching trees and tunnel that is generated in the background. It was taken at f8, so there was no intention to blur the background entirely...in fact, I wanted it there to give context. Another way of showing context and environment is to include bush and vegetation in front of the subject. For a long time, I tried to get clear views of my subjects but as I experimented with other options, I found that foreground detail was very useful in giving depth to this zebra image (bottom): Lying on my belly was necessary to get this shot, but it was not to generate the buttery background that is sought by many. It was to show the green foliage in front, which gives a depth to the image that would be flat without it. This makes me sound like I am slamming all images with blurry backgrounds. I am absolutely not. I use the technique and I love it in many of my shots. I just wanted to offer an alternative opinion and suggest that photographers consider when this is the right technique to use, and when it’s better to draw back and show the environment too.
Good luck and enjoy your photography!
Get in touch with Edward for more photo advice, photo safari tours and beautiful images! Go to: www.edwardselfephotography.com
LIUWA PLAIN... Africa’s Greatest Secret
By: Mindy Roberts Photos: Time + Tide, Will Burrard-Lucas, Uncaged Africa, Peter Fernhead
L
iuwa Plain National Park has long been one of Africa’s best-kept secrets. One of the earliest protected areas on the continent, in the late 1800s it was proclaimed a royal hunting ground for the then Lozi chief King Lewanika, after whom the Park’s first permanent camp has been named. He situated families in order to protect different pans of water and woodlands and this tradition continues today, with Liuwa Plain being the only National Park in Zambia where people live inside the Park’s borders.
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Since 2003, African Parks, the conservation non-profit organization, have been managing Liuwa Plain in partnership with the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife and the Barotse Royal Establishment. Wildlife numbers have grown substantially over this time, and, along with various reintroductions, the Park now boasts healthy lion, cheetah, hyena, red lechwe, zebra, and, especially, wildebeest populations. Liuwa Plain is home to the second biggest wildebeest migration on earth.
Liuwa’s blue wildebeest movement boasts tens of thousands of animals, but different from the East African migration and due to its remote location and relative anonymity, you can experience this spectacle almost on your own. There is only one permanent camp in the Park, newly opened King Lewanika Lodge, operated by the veteran safari company Norman Carr Safaris, part of the Time + Tide collection of owner-operated camps. King Lewanika Lodge opens during the peak times in the year to see the
wildebeest herds: from late October right through until mid-July. This year, Proflight have also joined forces to open up tourism to Western Zambia, now offering flights from Lusaka to Kalabo on Wednesdays and Saturdays to coincide with King Lewanika Lodge’s opening dates.
The Zambian Carnivore Programme has been monitoring the wildebeest herds’ movements over the past few years, and the data shows the migration follows a circular pattern and remains mostly within the boundaries of Liuwa Plain National Park. The main herds move south into the area of King Lewanika Lodge as the first rains start to fall: towards the end of October and through until November. The cows calve, swelling the population, and it’s not uncommon to see tens of thousands within the vicinity of the camp during these late months. At this time of the year - November/December - the storms are spectacular, lightning brightens the sky, and the lions are often nearby stalking their prey.
“[Now] there is a wonderful opportunity to share Liuwa Plain and her magic with the world”
From January through until May, the streams and water pans fill up, the wildebeest herds eat their fill and the calves have a chance to grow and become strong. During this time, thousands of wading birds use the Plains to roost and raise their young, and throughout this period the resident clans of hyena - there are four near the camp, with up to 50 individuals in each - are hunting a wildebeest a night. Resident bulls remain behind but the main wildebeest herds start to move north again towards the top of the Park around June/July each year, depending on the water levels.
With the new camp, and now the new flight routing, there is a wonderful opportunity to share Liuwa Plain and her magic with the world. Words really can’t describe how majestic it feels to watch a shooting star overhead, enjoy a 360-degree uninterrupted panorama of the landscape, and hear the whooping of a hyena or the spine-tingling low roar of a lion nearby.
CENTRAL CO-WORKING SPACE IN LUSAKA Drop in to use internet and printing services or book a private room for your next workshop, interview or meeting. Hot desk facilities Meeting rooms for hire Wifi Printing Business Services
1 Chila Rd, Kabulonga, Lusaka. BetaSpace@WorkBeta.com +260968421245 TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Rangers walking through the bush. In rainy season, the grass can reach 12 ft high
World Ranger Day: By:Katherine Johnston - Communications were hurtling towards extinction due to endemic poaching. In the 1970s Manager, Save the Rhino International and ‘80s, demand for illegally poached Photos: Tristan Vince rhino horn boomed: both in Yemen, where it was used to fashion decorative dagger handles, and in Asia, for use in st he 31 July is World Ranger Day, traditional Chinese medicine. In 1998, a time to celebrate the personal courage several years after the last confirmed and – all too often – commemorate the sightings, Zambia’s black rhinos were sacrifice made by wildlife rangers in the officially declared extinct.
T
line of duty. In North Luangwa National Park, rangers work round the clock to protect Zambia’s only black rhino population.
In the 1960s Zambia’s black rhino population was the third largest on the continent, and their traditional stronghold the vast ecosystem of North Luangwa National Park. And yet just two decades later, Zambia’s rhinos
In 1986 a partnership between the Zambian Wildlife Authority and Frankfurt Zoological Society created the North Luangwa Conservation Project, with the ultimate aim of conserving the unique ecosystem. With improved security, poaching came under control, and the conservation team started restoring the park’s habitats, working towards a future where local communities benefit from the economic Dean Bwale is a wildlife ranger in North opportunities wildlife brings. Cementing this vision, in 2003, the first rhinos Luangwa National Park. Growing up, were reintroduced to a heavily protecthe remembers learning that Zambia’s ed area of North Luangwa. Today, Dean rhinos had been slaughtered: “In the past we have lost a lot of animals here leads an anti-poaching unit protecting the rhinos from the ever-present threat in North Luangwa. We had lost all our of poaching. rhinos and that impacted on the community. We live together with nature, so if you destroy our nature, In the last decade, over 1,000 rangthen we are destroying our own lives.” ers worldwide have lost their lives in
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Paimolo inspects a rhino footprint
MEET THE RANGERS
Paimolo is a rhino monitor. He tracks North Luangwa’s black rhinos and monitors their breeding and health
it. I know their personalities very well and see them grow. It’s a privilege to learn about them and be so close. We must keep them safe and not lose them again.”
Save the Rhino International focuses on helping improve ranger welfare, whether through providing the best basics we can - like good quality shoes, socks and backpacks - or upgrading accommodation so that when Dean and Paimolo get back to base camp, they have a comfortable night’s sleep ahead and some small luxuries to keep their morale high. “It’s dangerous, yes. But I love my work. If you asked me to do any other job I wouldn’t want to,” says Dean, “because I am protecting wildlife for our future and my children’s future.” Worldwide, rhinos are perilously close
to reaching the point where their population starts declining. Black rhinos are Critically Endangered but, encouragingly, Zambia’s rhino population is growing. Long-term, the North Luangwa Conservation Project aims to open up the park to sustainable, community-led tourism. The black rhinos will be a huge draw. Thanks to the dedication of people like Paimolo and Dean, Zambia’s black rhinos – and communities living near North Luangwa – have a second chance.
Just £3 can provide a life-saving first-aid kit for a ranger. To donate to the North Luangwa Conservation Project, visit: www.savetherhino.org To find out more about the partnership between Frankfurt Zoological Society and the Zambian government, visit: https://fzs.org/en/projects/north-luangwa/ Dean Bwale is a ranger stationed at North Luangwa National Park, protecting a growing population of black rhinos
the line of duty. Protecting wildlife is dangerous at the best of times but, since 2007, rhino poaching has escalated once more – fuelled by demand for illegally traded horn in Vietnam and China. Rangers are increasingly faced with highly-armed poachers. To combat this threat, Dean and his team can spend days or weeks at a time on patrol in the bush, rising before dawn and walking for more than 12 hours a day, while investigating reported incursions and collecting evidence that can lead to arrests. The risk of an ambush is constant. In parallel, a team of dedicated rhino monitors are tasked with tracking and identifying each individual animal and building a picture of their behaviour. Paimolo Bwalya, Head of Rhino Monitoring, explains: “You have to leave your family for a long time but knowing and protecting the rhinos like I do, it’s worth
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CONSIDER THE By: Kathy G Mills Photos: Kathy G Mills / Edward Selfe
e p o l e t An
A
Zambian safari is an unforgettable experience—one that allows viewers to immerse themselves in the unspoilt beauty of the African bush and witness wildlife in its purest, most natural form. Some safaris provide excitement at every turn: a leopard dragging a fresh kill to the top of a sprawling sausage tree; an aggressive hippo asserting dominance by displaying its deadly incisors and canine tusks; a galloping herd of buffalo advancing amidst a storm of dust clouds. Quiet moments on safari can be mesmerising as well—a baby elephant ambling alongside its mother, or a majestic giraffe moving loftily from tree to tree as it browses.
Unfortunately, there are no guarantees on safari, and many people are disappointed to find that they won’t be documenting sightings of the “Big Five” during their journey. For that reason, it is a good idea to become acquainted with other forms of wildlife native to the area so that the success of your trip is not dependent on a few elusive species. There are a number of antelope varieties, for example, that can usually be spotted during an afternoon drive. Learn how to identify them, and you’ll ensure that every safari you take will be engaging and rewarding—even if the big cats are nowhere to be found.
Puku Medium-sized golden or orange-brown antelope standing around 80 cm and weighing 70 to 80 kg. Horns are heavily ringed but the tips are smooth. Puku live in herds of six to 30.
Waterbuck Often found near water sources, waterbuck stand 120 cm on average, and weigh around 200 kg. Coats are long and shaggy, ranging from brown to grey. The common waterbuck is known for a white ring around the rump, while the defassa waterbuck has wide white patches around the rear end. Both species are found in Zambia. Waterbuck exude an unpleasant odour that is thought to deter predators. Males have ringed horns that grow up to 40 inches.
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Eland Standing around 160 cm tall and weighing up to 940 kg, the massive eland is easy to identify. Coats vary from light brown to tawny. Males are known for a “dewlap,” or a loose section of skin hanging from the neck. Both sexes have thick, spiral horns and thin white stripes around the midsection and hindquarters. The subspecies occurring in Zambia is the Livingstone’s eland, with up to twelve stripes on its body.
Impala A medium-sized antelope standing around 85 cm with a tan or brown coat, a white underbelly, and dark stripes on the hindquarters and tail. Graceful runners, they can easily jump up to three metres in height and leap forward for distances of ten metres. Males have lyre-shaped horns used to fight off rivals.
Lechwe Most stand 90 to 100 cm and weigh 70 to 120 kg. Often spotted leaping through marshy wetlands, they are known for their elongated hind quarters. Tan coats are covered in a water-repellant substance that helps them manoeuvre easily through the water. Males have spiral-shaped horns.
Kudu Large and greyish with 6 to 10 narrow white stripes on the body. Greater Kudu males stand up to 160 cm tall and weigh 190-270 kg. Males sport impressive twisted horns and fringed beards. Females are half the size of the males, hornless, without beards.
Bushbuck A medium-sized antelope standing 80 to 90 cm and weighing 45 to 80 kg. Coats range from red-brown to deeper browns, and have white stripes and splotches. They are forest-dwellers and somewhat solitary. Known for having an odd gait that makes them clumsy runners, they are, however, excellent swimmers. Males can be aggressive. When wounded, they will attack, and they also put up a valiant struggle against predators.
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Malawi Uncovered
The Lake of Stars
By: Stephanie Naidoo / Robin Pope Safaris Photos: Dana Allen
Malawi Uncovered
M
alawi may be one of Africa’s smallest countries, but when it comes to exploration and adventure it has tremendous amounts to offer.
Malawi is dominated by Lake Malawi, a magnificent body of water 365 miles long and 52 miles wide, and hence sometimes referred to as the calendar lake. David Livingstone famously named Lake Malawi “The Lake of Stars” and for good reason: during the day the light dances across the deep blue water and once the sun has set the stars twinkle brightly, both in the sky and on the lake, as the fishermen light up their hurricane lamps for a night on the water.
Lake Malawi is the third largest body of water in Africa and is teeming with life, including over 400 species of cichlid, many of which are endemic. Most of this astounding underwater diversity is protected within Lake Malawi National Park, a World Heritage Site and one of the first in the world set aside for the protection of freshwater fish. Lake Malawi National Park is situated in the south - the most picturesque region of the lake. The scenery inside the park is scintillating; steep hills carpeted with trees tumble down into the deep blue water, while the shoreline is punctuated by islands, bays and large granite boulders. The northern part of the lake has its own charm and is extraordinarily deep, up to 700 metres, plunging well below sea level. This reflects the enormity of the natural faulting of the Great Rift Valley, the origin of Lake Malawi. This vast body of freshwater, fringed by beaches of golden sand, is not only a scenic wonderland but it also provides endless water-sport opportunities for those looking for something beyond sun, sand and swimming. The clarity of the fresh water and TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Malawi Uncovered
the great abundance of marine life make it ideal for snorkelling and diving, while the absence of strong currents ensures it is wonderful for sailing, kayaking, water skiing and an array of other water sports. A short distance from Lake Malawi National Park is a beautiful natural harbour, the base for the Ilala Ferry. Named after Ilala in Zambia, the final resting place of David Livingstone, this iconic passenger and cargo ferry, built by Yarrow Shipbuilders in Scoutstoun, Scotland, has been plying its trade on Lake Malawi since 1951. Once built, the ferry was transported in pieces by ship to Mozambique, and then by road to Malawi where it was assembled. It makes a weekly journey of 480 kilometres and reaches as far north as Chilumba near the Tanzanian border.
Due to its rich fish harvest, the lake plays an important part in the local economy. Fishing villages are scattered along the shore and the traditional fishing industry and practices are an attraction for visitors. Access to the lake is possible along much of its length, but despite the popularity to settle along the lakeshore there are still long stretches that are totally uninhabited.
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As it is becoming an increasingly popular beach destination, Lake Malawi is the perfect ending to a safari, giving travellers a complete bush and beach experience. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
Malawi Uncovered
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Shining-blue Kingfisher This bird was carefully captured on an exploratory trip to the Congo Border near Mwinilunga. Photo by Kyle Branch
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Mukambi Safaris offers three magnificent camps in Kafue National Park, one of the largest areas of unspoiled wilderness. Each camp has its own character and style in different areas of the National Park, making them completely....unique by nature. We offer attractive packages where you can visit all of our three camps.
Unique by Nature
Mukambi Safari Lodge is overlooking the Kafue River and is the gateway to Kafue National Park.
Fig Tree Camp lies in an undiscovered part of the park on a Shishamba River lagoon. It is the only camp in a range of 30 km!
Mukambi Plains Camp has 8 beds available in a classic bush camp on the famous Busanga Plains.
+260 (0)974 424013 | reservations@mukambi.com | mukambi.com
Out of Lusaka, into Africa... Pioneer is an oasis stopover, located just 14 kilometres from the International airport, it is the ideal place to be if you need to be near Lusaka but don’t want to be in it. Offering a range of accommodation and a shady campsite for those who wish to be a little closer to nature.
The ideal place to start or end any safari...
Pioneer Safaris are soon to release some special packages with set itineraries. Our mobile safaris will cover the whole of Zambia, enabling guests to explore the many wonders of our diverse and beautiful country. Simply contact us to arrange your Zambian safari adventure!
sophie@pioneercampzambia.com / mail@pioneercampzambia.com paul@pioneercampzambia.com / www. pioneercampzambia.com
