2014 Jubilee

667 MADISON AVEN NEW YORK, NY 1006 TEL: 212 • 644 • 6400 MACKLOWEGALLER

Celebrating the Winter Antiques Show's

Diamond Jubilee Jan. 24 - Feb. 2, 2014

“Yin Yang” Ring by Suzanne Belperron (R-15990) Suzanne Belperron was one of the most talented and influential jewelry designers of the last century. First employed by Germaine Boivin, she contributed enormously to the successes the Maison René Boivin achieved until the early 1930’s. In 1932, she left Boivin and with the support of Bernard Herz designed and produced jewelry under her own name. Her jewelry was so original that she never signed her pieces, instead insisting that ‘my style is my signature’.

This ring is fashioned after her own engagement ring, entitled “Yin and Yang”. While hers featured an old mine/cut diamond, our ring is graced by a highly rare 4.46 carat “Fancy Vivid Yellow Flawless” oval brilliant-cut diamond.

A similar ring is pictured in "Suzanne Belperron", by Sylvie Raulet, Olivier Baroin, Antique Collectors’ Club, 2011, page 33, 215 Circa 1923.

Diamond and Gold Ear Clips by Suzanne Belperron (ER-15821) A pair of French Modernist 18 karat gold and diamond earrings, also designed by Suzanne Belperron. Only Belperron would contrast perfectly cut diamonds with a seemingly hand-hammered gold setting. Nowadays, every great jeweler seeks out these contrasts, but Belperron was the first to break this aesthetic ground.

The crescent-shaped earrings with three diamonds set individually, 2 round diamonds weighing approximately 2.70carats, 4 pearcut diamonds weighing approximately 1,50cts. E/F color, VVS/ VS clarity. Total approximate weight, 4.20 carats. Groene & Darde maker's mark..

Similar ear clips pictured in "Suzanne Belperron", by Sylvie Raulet, Olivier Baroin, Antique Collectors’ Club, 2011, page 215.

Circa 1950's.

Signed, French assay and makers mark for Darde & Fils .

Diamond and Gold Bombé Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels (R-14053) Slices of watermelon were the inspiration for this charming ring made by Van Cleef & Arpels. The contrast of diamonds with negative space make this ring in every way more interesting than other bombé style rings of the 1960’s.

A French 18 karat gold ring with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels.

The ring has 33 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.65 carats. In a five sectioned diamond set domed ring. With the original VCA box.

Circa 1960.

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Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Pendant Watch with Chain (P-15423) This American Art Deco pendant watch is ripped straight from the “The Great Gatsby�. It is light and flirtatious, but strong in its geometry.

The pendant watch necklace has 25 old European-cut diamonds in the chain with an approximate total weight of 3.75 carats, and 96 rose-cut diamonds in the chain with an approximate total weight of .96 carats, 56 old European-cut diamonds in the pendant with an approximate total weight of .85 carats, and 1 old European-cut diamond in the center of the pendant with an approximate total weight of .30 carats. The total carat wt: 5.86. The watch is heavily engraved in classic Art Deco motifs. Swiss made mechanism.

Circa 1920.

Diamond, Platinum and Gold “Swirl” Brooch

by Van Cleef & Arpels (BO-16100) Van Cleef & Arpels used twisted gold wire and graduated diamonds to create a swirl of movement in this quintessential 1960’s brooch.

The brooch features 132 round-cut prong set diamonds that graduate in size. They have an approximate total weight of 14.20 carats, F/G color and VS clarity grade. .

Circa 1965.

Signed, "Van Cleef & Arpels NY #3105-1965".

Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Bracelet (BA-16120) Art Deco designers sought a definitive rupture from the naturalistic style of the Art Nouveau and Edwardian periods. They used geometric forms and an architectural sense of composition, with elevations and repeated motifs, and an all-white palate with different cuts of diamonds taking the place of colored stones to create contrast, depth and dimensionality. This is the birth of abstraction in jewelry.

This plaque bracelet features 3 old European-cut diamonds, one in each center section with an approximate total weight of 6.75 carats surrounded by 306 round old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 37.00 carats, and 126 rectangular baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats. The diamonds are VS-SI clarity and H-I color grade.

Similar bracelets are pictured in "Art Deco Jewelry", by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1984, page 84 etc.

Circa 1925.

Diamond and Platinum Watch by Charlton & Co. (YW-16114) An American Art Deco platinum and diamond covered watch bracelet

by Charlton & Co. The 2.75 carat antique cushion-cut diamond, VVS-2 clarity, E color, functions as the focal point of the bracelet and also the cover of the watch. The diamond link bracelet features 315 baguette and European cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 13.85 carats. The center diamond is certified by the Gemological Institute of America report #5151857815. Signed Charlton on the face.

John W. Charlton was involved with several firms before opening his own company, originally known as J. W. Charlton in New York City. With the addition of a partner, Robert S. Chapin, the name was changed to Charlton & Co. and relocated uptown. Upon Charlton's retirement in 1919, his partners, James Todd and Grant A. Peacock took over the business, carrying on his tradition of offering fine jewellery. In the late 1920s, they opened branches in Palm Beach, Florida, and in Paris on the Rue de la Paix. Branch stores were closed during the 1930’s and in 1943 Peacock acquired ownership of Charlton & Co., renaming the firm Grant A. Peacock. Circa 1930.

Signed, ''Charlton''.

Diamond and Platinum Bombé Ring (R-16091) This 5 band ring alternates square and round diamonds to create a stunning geometric design. The ring features 52 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats, and 43 square calibré/cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.20 carats.

Circa 1960’s.