Delano October 2014 by Maison Moderne

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THEATRE WITH EDGE

BUSINESS Housing bubble?

PROFILE New ambassadors

LARISA FABER IN MASKÉNADA’S FIRST ENGLISH-LANGUAGE PRODUCTION

10/2014

ISSUE 30

5 453000 010015

La métamorphose, une histoire Hermès

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Write to PO Box 728 L-2017 Luxembourg Offices 10 rue des Gaulois, Luxembourg-Bonnevoie ISSN 2220-5535 Web www.maisonmoderne.lu Founder and CEO Mike Koedinger Administrative and financial director Étienne Velasti Innovation, quality and operations director Rudy Lafontaine

EDITORIAL

Text by DUNCAN ROBERTS

Photography by CHRISTOPHE OLINGER

A SLIGHT RETURN

PUBLISHER Phone (+352) 29 66 18-1 Fax (+352) 29 66 19 E-mail publishing@maisonmoderne.lu Publisher Mike Koedinger Editor in chief Duncan Roberts (duncan.roberts@maisonmoderne.lu) Desk editor Aaron Grunwald (aaron.grunwald@maisonmoderne.lu) Contributors Neel Chrillesen, Stephen Evans, Heledd Pritchard, Zuza Reda-Jakima, Tonya Stoneman, James Walker, Wendy Winn Photography Julien Becker, Sven Becker, Benjamin Champenois, Annabelle Denham, Steve Eastwood, Jan Hanrion, Gaël Lesure, Mike Zenari Proofreading Pauline Berg, Muriel Dietsch, Catherine Thomas DESIGN Phone (+352) 27 62 12 62-1 Fax (+352) 27 62 12 62-84 E-mail studio@maisonmoderne.lu Director, Maison Moderne Studio Guido Kröger Creative director Jeremy Leslie Art director Cassandre Bourtembourg Studio manager Stéphanie Poras Layout Sophie Melai (coordination), Sara Giubelli, Jan Hanrion ADVERTISING Phone (+352) 27 17 27 27 Fax (+352) 26 29 66 20 E-mail mediasales@maisonmoderne.lu Director, Maison Moderne Media Sales Francis Gasparotto (francis.gasparotto@maisonmoderne.lu) Sales director Luciana Restivo (luciana.restivo@maisonmoderne.lu) SUBSCRIPTIONS For subscriptions, please visit www.delano.lu Luxembourg (shipping included) 1 year / 8 issues / 25 euros 2 years / 16 issues / 50 euros Europe (shipping included) 1 year / 8 issues / 31 euros 2 years / 16 issues / 68 euros Printed by Imprimerie Faber Distribution by Valora Services Luxembourg

In accordance with article 66 of the law of 08.06.2004 on the freedom of expression in the media: the company that publishes Delano is indirectly held, by a stake exceeding 25%, by Mike Koedinger, an independent editor registered in Luxembourg. Mike Koedinger is chartered with daily management. Delano™ and Maison Moderne™ are trademarks used under licence by MM Publishing S.A.© MM Publishing S.A. (Luxembourg) COVER PHOTO

Julien Becker shot Larisa Faber in the Hamilius underground passageway. CLARIFICATION

Due to a production error, in the June 2014 print edition we omitted the name of the photographer who captured the toast between Grand Duke Henri and Polish president Bronisław Komorowski during a state visit in Warsaw. It was Nicolas Bouvy for SIP. NOTE TO OUR READERS

The next print edition of Delano will be published on 12 November. For news updates, commentary and our weekly what’s on guide, visit www.delano.lu.

he clocks did not stop, the telephones were not cut off, and no pianos were silenced. Close to one year after the elections that eventually brought to an end the 19-year tenure of Jean-Claude Juncker as prime minister, Luxembourg is not in mourning. It helps, of course, that Juncker has landed possibly the only job that could in some way compensate for his loss of influence on the domestic scene--and how the people rallied behind him during those fraught few weeks as he battled to land the role of European Commission president. But what has also prevented a mass hysteria is the fact that the so-called Gambia coalition government of DP, LSAP and Déi Gréng has quietly gone about doing its job, making good on its promises and forging ahead with social and political reform. As the student protest in April demonstrated, not everyone likes their policies, or indeed their style, but the disparate group of individuals that makes up the cabinet has shown unexpected qualities of fortitude and determination as well as vision. And so the rentrée starts with what deputy prime minister Étienne Schneider calls “a charged programme” as the government works on the budget for 2015 and focuses on legislation to reform the economy, simplify administrative procedures for business and start-ups and put

into place measures to tackle unemployment in the long-term. The government has also launched the initiative to hold its promised referendum on four questions including allowing non-Luxembourg citizens to vote in parliamentary elections. The controversial acceleration of the separation of church and state will also be on the ballot paper, and while the Catholic church has claimed it will be broke within three years if it no longer receives state funding for its salaries, that is a brave move from the government. If it has read the mood of the country correctly, the referendum could bring about fundamental and lasting change to the Grand Duchy. Its pragmatic and patient approach to “modernising the Luxembourg state” as prime minister Xavier Bettel puts it, brings to mind the lyrics of the song ‘A Slight Return’ by one-hit wonders The Bluetones. “You don’t have to have the solution, you’ve got to understand the problem. And don’t go hoping for a miracle.”

JUST DANDY Jean-Claude Juncker has landed the role he wanted while his successor Xavier Bettel gets on with modernising Luxembourg October 2014

“We have to cut 12 positions in the company by the end of this month.“ “Have you already negotiated the compulsory social plan?“

“The What ??“ INDIVIDUAL OR COLLECTIVE DISMISSALS PROCEDURE? Once an employer plans to dismiss within a period of 30 days at least 7 employees, or within a period of 90 days at least 15 employees, it must negotiate a social plan or risks having the dismissals nullified. Niche employment law firm CASTEGNARO - Ius Laboris Luxembourg represents employers only. Through Ius Laboris, a global alliance of leading human resources law practitioners, CASTEGNARO assists employers worldwide.

Take the right decision. www.castegnaro.lu

CONTENTS

DELANO OCTOBER 2014 6

UPFRONT Catching up with... Delano talks with Nicki Crush, who takes over as head of the International School of Luxembourg next year. 8

COMMUNITY SNAPSHOTS Summer get-togethers

See what Rugby Club Luxembourg, The Network, British Ladies Club, ISL Parent Teacher Organisation (and the Delano staff) got up to during the warmer weather. 12

DELANO DIGITAL HIGHLIGHTS

UPFRONT Carte blanche

UPFRONT Perfect weekend

GETTING INVOLVED Straight challenge

Accurately tallying illegal activity in national statistics is economically important but does not infer a moral judgment, says Carlo Klein.

ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT SNAPSHOTS Picasso in Luxembourg?

Deloitte hosts a conference on the new Freeport at Findel airport. But officials say the new facility is not only about boosting the logistics sector.

48 hours for hip couples. 52

Find out why Lucas Carbonaro wants to swim 20km through shark-invested waters. 54

WORKING FOR A FRIEND Darren Robinson on mixing the personal and professional delano.lu/news/working-friend

COVER STORY Theatre with an edge

DIPLOMACY Just arrived

BANKING Welcome to the family

Industry leaders are calling for more regulation of the “family office” sector. 32

NORDIC FORUM Blunt talk

DIPLOMACY SNAPSHOTS Ambassadors say äddi

Highlights from the farewell reception for the former Danish, Finnish and Irish ambassadors. 18

EUROPE What happened?

PERSONAL BUSINESS Bubble trouble?

VIDEO RESUMES

CAREERS Getting the best out of training

Autumn is the perfect time to make your house or flat a cosy sanctuary. These design shops can help make it happen. 68

Anita De Viell on when it’s a good idea and when it’s not delano.lu/news/edge-or-not

ON STAGE Sultry sounds

It costs money and it takes time, but how can employees and bosses both make training worth it? 48

MY OTHER LIFE Super Mario dioramas Jorge and Anabela Valente are launching a crowd-funded magazine to share their moving experiences in South America.

INTERIOR DESIGN Hibernate at home

Real estate prices continue to rocket. Will this continue or is the bubble about to burst?

An Oxford Union Debate in Luxembourg asks if the euro zone has learned the right lessons from the economic crisis.

NEWSMAKERS Inspiring trip

PLATFORM 6

Where to catch Luxembourg’s express train to Hogwarts delano.lu/news/no-platform-6

Have a three dimensional look at what Wuppes makes in his cellar.

Cool female vocalists plus other shows you absolutely must see this autumn. 72

KIDS Autumn outings

Go nuts, go back to your roots and go for a Segway ride.

GOOD NEWS, BAD NEWS Highlights from the ALFI Global Distribution Conference delano.lu/ALFIGlobal14

MY FAVOURITES Scandinavian sensibility

Lise Lindqvist shares her three favourite shopping spots in Luxembourg.

HAVE A COMMENT? We are always looking for contributors and for reader feedback: news@delano.lu

October 2014

Gare centrale: Matthew Black/Creative Commons > ALFI speaker Theresa Hamacher: NICSA

Meet the new Irish and Finnish ambassadors to the Grand Duchy. What do these foreign service heavy hitters have planned?

The folks from up north are known for plain speaking. These investment managers say that is an advantage.

Larisa Faber and Rafael Kohn talk about producing the play It felt empty when the heart went at first but it is alright now and breaking the taboos about human tracking in Luxembourg. Plus two other new English language productions.

UPFRONT

CURRENT AFFAIRS 150,000 IN BRIEF NATION BRANDING Luxembourg is prepared to spend €2 million on nation branding, says minister for the economy Étienne Schneider. Ten marketing agencies have submitted con cepts bids for the first phase of the campaign. In 2010 Luxembourg ranked 22nd among 50 countries in the global Nation Brand Index. HELLANGE JUNCTION Having finally pro cured the land from a belligerent owner, plans are going ahead to link the A13 motorway to Saarbrücken with the A3 Luxembourg Dudelange motorway via the N13. The project will cost around €34 million. SUICIDE RATES 42 men and 14 women in Luxembourg took their own life in 2012, according to a Preventing Suicide report released by the World Health Organisation in early September. Estimates put the global rate at over 800,000.

October 2014

The population that the City of Luxembourg could support, according to mayor Lydie Polfer. Speaking about the PAG development plan, she explained that the city has building land that could be used for housing. The current population is just over 100,000.

UN PLEDGE

Speaking in New York at a UN summit, sustainability minister Carole Dieschbourg said that Luxembourg is pledg ing €5 million to the Green Climate Fund, which operates within the framework of the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change. That is the equivalent of around €10 per person, which puts the Grand Duchy up with other leading contributors.

“I DON’T WANT TO SEE BRITAIN LEAVE. WE WOULD LOSE ALL THE VIRTUES BRITAIN IS REPRESENTING.” JEAN-CLAUDE JUNCKER

Talking to the BBC after announcing his European Commission team, incoming president Jean-Claude Juncker was referring to his appointment of Lord Jonathan Hill to the post of commissioner in charge of financial services.

REFERENDUM PROMISE Luxembourg voters will head to the polls to vote on a fourquestion referendum this coming spring or early summer. The coalition government had promised the referendum in its statement of intent when taking office in December 2013. The questions will ask citizens to vote yes or no to four questions: should suffrage be granted at age 16; should nonLuxembourg citizens, including those originally from outside the EU, be granted the right to vote after 10 years residence in the Grand Duchy; should the salaries and pensions of the clergy be publically financed; and should cabinet members be limited to a term of ten consecutive years? Regardless of the referendum results, the current government will remain in office, says prime minister Xavier Bettel. “This is to know what Luxembourg wants for tomorrow,” Bettel stated. “This is not a question about the popularity of the government nor that of Xavier Bettel.” The prime minister re-iterated that the “Gambia” coalition’s credo was “modernising the Luxembourg state.”

EDUCATION PAYOUTS

The change in the law governing financial aid for students following a European Court of Justice ruling last year has led to a significant increase in the sums the state pays for higher education. Now that the children of cross border workers are also eligible for the subsidies and grants offered to Luxembourg resident students, a total of €150 million in aid was paid to just over 25,000 students during the 2013-14 college year. That compares to a total of just €98.5 million to 15,500 students in the previous year. But the sum will change again for the 2014-15 school year with new legislation governing student grants coming into effect. Higher education minister Claude Meisch introduced the controversial new conditions as a cost-cutting measure in view of the ECJ ruling.

PM’S DATE WITH DESTENAY

Prime minister Xavier Bettel has revealed that he will marry his civil partner, Gauthier Destenay, when legislation allowing same sex marriage comes into effect next January. Bettel didn’t give a date, but revealed that it was Destenay who popped the question. The announcement raised the ire of Greek politician Nikos Nikolopoulos, who tweeted offensive comments about the impending marriage.

CATCHING UP WITH…

NICKI CRUSH The International School of Luxembourg has named her as its new director, a year ahead of Chris Bowman’s retirement in July 2015. The International School of Luxembourg may not have an official hymn, but something along the lines of “What a difference a year makes” would be fitting. Last school year alone, the new lower school building was inaugurated, ISL’s 50th anniversary was celebrated and--just before the summer holiday--a new director was appointed. Even though current director Chris Bowman will only retire at the end of this school year, a search committee started looking for his replacement in the autumn of 2013. There were more than 50 applicants for the post, which was narrowed down to four final candidates in June. Not that surprisingly--except to her--the unanimous choice was Nicki Crush, who has been the ISL’s upper school principal for nearly 20 years. “ISL has of grown enormously since I arrived,” says Crush. “In 1995, there were 135 students in the upper school [grades 7-12]. Today, that’s nearly as much as in one single grade level.” The fact that ISL is expected to reach full capacity (1,416 students) within a few years is not the only challenge awaiting Crush, who says she will strive to maintain the school’s good relationship with the Luxembourg government, continue building relations within the community and take ISL to “the next level.” “It’s essential we remain the first school of choice for English-speaking families,” she says. “We want ISL to become a centre of excellence and wish to continue offering our students everything they need to face a challenging world. We’re fortunate to have a very dedicated group of teachers who really care and who work on this every day. It’s all about more and better learning. Each decision we make should be taken in the light of what is best for the students.” Crush looks forward to getting more involved with external work, but also states that she will be spending some time getting to know the lower school better. In fact she plans on staying very much out and about in the school and “never loosing touch or visibility.” Crush will also be the first female director at ISL and that, she announces, “will be different.” Interview by NEEL CHRILLESEN Photography by ANNABELLE DENHAM

October 2014

CURRENT AFFAIRS

COMMUNITY SNAPSHOTS

Text by AARON GRUNWALD

SUMMER GET-TOGETHERS

ince our last print edition, Luxembourg’s international community took advantage of the warmer weather to celebrate, network and raise money for worthy causes. In July Rugby Club Luxembourg held its annual ball at the Hotel Parc Belle Vue (photographed by Charles Caratini). Closing its 41st season, the gala recognised outstanding players and outstanding contributions off the field. In fact the awards are “always the best part” of the event, reckons RCL president Dave Evans. Then The Network had their traditional summer cocktail mixer at Frenchie (photographed by Benjamin Champenois). Committee member Dot Bekker joined the professional women’s group “because it was relaxed, it was fun, people were friendly and just made me feel instantly at home and comfortable.” In addition to work-related conferences they plan cultural outings and raise cash for charity. The British Ladies Club broke out their glad-rags for a black-tie ball in September at the Hotel Le Royal (photographed by Steve Eastwood). Co-chair Becky Gollackner says the “British” part of its name “does disjustice” to the club, because with 44 nationalities among its members “we’re more of an English speaking club.” It likewise has social meetups and raises money for good causes. The next day the BLC was one of many outfits (including Delano) that participated in the International School of Luxembourg Welcome Back Festival, organised by the school’s Parent Teacher Organisation (also photographed by Steve Eastwood). As part of back-to-school season, the festival was a chance to learn about fun activities outside the classroom, for kids and for parents. Here are just a few of the highlights (more photos on our website). October 2014

A. Sissel Berg, Mette Steiness, Astros Thorsteinsdottir, Svala Arnardottir, Frida Thorsteinsdottir and Kolbrún Oskarsdottir B. Keith Burman, Laura Burman and Nancy Saich C. Carrie Cannon and Nicola Vickers D. Paula Manzoni, Luisa Gomeiro and Daniela Maniscalco E. Iness Majdouline, Reyhan Mortelmans, Tim Majdouline and Olivier Mortelmans F. Jason Kudrna, Connie Gomez, Shar Helfgott and Roger Behrend G. Marianna Sorensen, Katy and Lynn Frank, Anne Schol, Mei Henderson, Nicolette Sutherland and Monica Carvalho

INTERNATIONAL FAIR: DELANO.LU/ ISLWELCOME14

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CURRENT AFFAIRS

COMMUNITY SNAPSHOTS

CONTINUED

A. “Most improved player” Mauricio Morkun (centre) B. Tiziana Vasi, Dave Evans and Vida Urbonu C. Stéphane Gillet and JB Vert

RUGBY GALA: DELANO.LU/ RCLGALA2014

A. The Network committee members Wendy Casey, Katerina Kapsani and Dot Bekker B. Yuliya Tsyganok and Helen Wick C. Alida Tomeba and Sasha Polishchuk B

NETWORK COCKTAIL: DELANO.LU/ THENETWORK SUMMER2014

A. BLC co-chair Becky Gollackner, Jo Roberts and Adisa Krusko B. Margot and Dennis Robertson C. Dan and Kristine Wright

BRITISH BALL: DELANO.LU/ BLCSUMMER14

October 2014

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CURRENT AFFAIRS

October 2014

DIPLOMACY

Text by DUNCAN ROBERTS

Photography by JULIEN BECKER

NEW DIPLOMATS ON THE BLOCK The diplomatic merry-go-round saw three ambassadors leave their posts in the Grand Duchy this summer (see page 16). Familiar to the local international community, Diarmuid O’Leary, Louise Bang Jespersen and Marja Lehto have now taken up new posts in Japan, Belgium and Finland respectively. In Brussels, Jespersen continues to represent Denmark in Luxembourg after the Danes closed their embassy here. But new ambassadors from Ireland and Finland have arrived in the Grand Duchy to represent their government’s interests and serve their communities. Introducing Peadar Carpenter and Timo Ranta.

PHOTOS LEGENDS A. Irish ambassador Peadar Carpenter: pragmatic approach to Europe B. Finnish ambassador Timo Ranta: use diplomatic mission as a resource

usterity measures, new technology and geo-political shifts have resulted in many countries taking a fresh approach to the status of their diplomatic missions abroad. Denmark, for example, decided to close down its Luxemburg embassy along with missions in Cyprus, Switzerland, Slovenia and Slovakia, while opening up embassies in countries like Nigeria, Colombia and the Philippines. Luxembourg is now served by the embassy in Brussels--a not unfamiliar scenario for many countries with more limited resources. “The world is changing, economy too, and resources are limited. We have to adapt, and as a small country we know how important it is to remain flexible,” said ambassador Louise Bang Jespersen back in June. Ireland has recently also seen its embassy in Luxembourg reduced to what former ambassador Diarmuid O’Leary called a “light” diplomatic model, with just one diplomat assisted by three long-serving and knowledgeable local staff. “When you’re on your own you have to use your time well, and focus on making good contacts,” says O’Leary’s successor, Peadar Carpenter. Arriving in August, Carpenter is currently living in temporary accommodation in a Kirchberg apartment while a new residence is sought--a downsizing of the ambassador’s residence was also

part of the cutbacks introduced by the Irish Department of Foreign Affairs several years ago, and O’Leary and wife Emma lived in a relatively modest house outside the city. A civil servant for most of his working life, Carpenter was in the Irish justice department for ten years before joining the DFA in December 1991. Most recently he served as director of the consulate division and before that worked for ten years in the Anglo-Irish division. “That was an interesting place at an interesting time. It was very rewarding, challenging, frustrating and a whole load of other things, but I enjoyed it. We achieved a lot and moved forward a lot,” he says, referring to the Northern Ireland peace process. “We put in a good foundation.” Carpenter says the Conflict Resolution Unit set up to share the experiences of the process could be used to promote peacemaking in other countries. “It’s one thing getting an agreement, it’s quite another what people understand it to be. The problem in Northern Ireland was that some people saw it as a zero sum game; that if one side won something the other must have lost something. That was a strange reaction to get to some of the things we did.” FOCUS ON ACHIEVABLES Being in one of the centres of EU affairs, Carpenter points out that a diplomatic presence in the Grand Duchy is essential for a pro-European country like Ireland. “We try to be pragmatic, not dogmatic in our approach to Europe.” Indeed, Carpenter is keen to set up more bilateral meetings between ministers when representatives of Ireland come to Luxembourg on EU business. “Europe is competing with the rest of the world, which is something people maybe don’t always understand. It is very important that we don’t put our own industries at something of a disadvantage on the world stage. Trade nowadays is so

mobile, it’s hugely important that we are alert to all these things.” The ambassador has had time to settle in before the political “rentrée”, but next year at this time life will be busier as Luxembourg takes on the presidency of the EU during the second half of 2015. “When you have the presidency, you often take on an agenda that is already there. But it does give a country an opportunity to show what it is capable of. There’s a huge amount of planning involved. I think the best is to focus on a small number of achievables and actually deliver them, rather than trying to be all things to all men.”

"WE TRY TO BE PRAGMATIC, NOT DOGMATIC IN OUR APPROACH TO EUROPE." AMBASSADOR PEADAR CARPENTER

New Finnish ambassador Timo Ranta is also very familiar with the workings of the European Union. He spent 11 years in Brussels and more recently was the diplomatic advisor to the then minister for foreign affairs and trade, now prime minister, Alexander Stubb in Helsinki. Ranta’s stint in Brussels included a post as member of cabinet of the first president of the European Council, Herman van Rompuy. He visited Luxembourg many times for council meetings while in Brussels in the 1990s. “Unfortunately, I mostly only got to see the Kirchberg plateau or some hotels close to the railway station,” he says ruefully. “When I got to stay in the city centre, I realised it was quite nice and that the people are nice and the city is buzzing with international action.” He decided some time ago that Luxembourg would be a good place to live, so when the ambassador vacancy was advertised he jumped at the chance to apply. The role will be vastly different to what Ranta has done before. “An ambassador is not supposed to be a specialist, October 2014

CURRENT AFFAIRS

DIPLOMACY

CONTINUED

or invent new details of policy, but represents the country more generally. He should always follow the official government line and be able to discuss everything.” In Luxembourg that includes EU affairs, bilateral relations, the economy, trade, culture and services for Finnish citizens. ECONOMIC TIES Ranta has been listening to what people think about Finland, and says he wants to increase awareness and understanding of Finland. “We often think we are very much followed around the world, but that is not the case. I have to keep my feet on the ground when it comes to October 2014

awareness, and it is a slow process.” Ranta would like to encourage more Finnish companies to come to Luxembourg and is keen on finding new ways to strengthen economic ties. He explains that the Finnish economy, based on small and medium size companies (which account for 99.8% of businesses), is going through a process of transformation. A culture of entrepreneurship has been fostered, and Ranta is the leader in the Benelux of Team Finland, the entity set up to promote, among other things, the internationalisation of Finnish enterprises. Are there any lessons the Finns can teach Luxembourg in this area? “Our advice for Luxembourg would be to find key

bottlenecks that prevent Luxembourg SMEs from expanding,” he says. Finland, the only Nordic country that still has an embassy in Luxembourg, did recently hold a debate about how to organise its external representation. The conclusion was a consensus that the country should maintain its wide network of diplomatic missions. They are useful, says the ambassador, for getting up to date information about what other countries think about Finland and to enable Finnish companies to establish themselves in new territories. “This is a resource that we need to use to face the challenges of the current international situation.”

EMBASSY OF IRELAND Ambassador Peadar Carpenter 28 route d’Arlon Tel: 450 6101 embassyofireland.lu EMBASSY OF FINLAND Ambassador Timo Ranta 2 rue Heine Tel: 495 551 finlande.lu

7+ 8 NOVEMBER 2014

Fancy doing some scientific experiments? On Saturday 8 November, researchers take over the CarrĂŠRotondes in Luxembourg-Hollerich! From 10:00 to 18:00, discover the fascinating world of science and research through free workshops and discussions, together with your friends and family! For more information, visit www.researchersdays.lu Free shuttle bus service on Saturday between P&R Bouillon, the Luxembourg railway station and the CarrĂŠRotondes.

Friday 7 November: Pop-Up Science event for all 18:00-19:30 (registration required)

CURRENT AFFAIRS

DIPLOMACY SNAPSHOTS

Photography by STEVE EASTWOOD

AMBASSADORS SAY ÄDDI A. Ambassadors farewell reception at the Polish embassy in July B. Polish ambassador Bartosz Jalowiecki and Diarmuid O’Leary C. Terry van de Kemp and Emma O’Leary D. Peter Herskind and former Danish ambassador Louise Bang Jespersen with their daughter E. Dutch ambassador Peter Kok, British ambassador Alice Walpole and Peter Herskind F. Former Finnish ambassador Marja Lehto accepting flowers G. Dutch ambassador Peter Kok (left), French ambassador Guy Yelda (centre) H. Marja Lehto and Lauri Siitonen I. US ambassador Robert Mandell and Peter Kok J. Japanese ambassador Atsuko Nishimura (second from left) K. Emma and Diarmuid O’Leary; he is the recently departed Irish ambassador to the Grand Duchy L. Ekaterina Entina and Russian ambassador Mark Entin, with their young child

MORE ONLINE: DELANO.LU/ AMBASSADORS14

October 2014

CURRENT AFFAIRS

EUROPE

Text by STEPHEN EVANS

WHAT HAPPENED?

JOIN THE DEBATE: CLUB.PAPERJAM.LU

An Oxford-style debate next month asks if euro area countries have taken the right measures following the global economic crisis. re we any closer to really understanding the implications of the 2008 financial crisis and its impact on the global and local economy? Some economies recovered, but too many euro zone countries are seeing output fall and unemployment rise. And are we prepared for the next crisis? “Economic crisis: have we learned the right lessons?” will be the motion discussed by the first Oxford Union Debate organised by the Paperjam Club (owned by Delano’s publisher) on 5 November in Luxembourg City. The Oxford Union was founded in that UK university town in 1823, providing a forum and training ground for generations of political and cultural leaders. Speakers give presentations for and against a proposition, before moving on to an open debate. The audience are then invited to vote for the side with the most convincing arguments. Speaking for the motion will be Yves Nosbusch, chief economist of BGL BNP Paribas and Jean-Pierre Zigrand, an associate professor at the London School of Economics. Against will be Luxembourg Socialist Workers’ Party member of the Chamber of Deputies Franz Fayot and Nicolas Henckes, secretary general of the Union of Luxembourg Enterprises. The moderator will be the current president of the Oxford Union Society, Ben Sullivan. Economists are still debating the causes and cures of the 1930s Great Depression, so it would be surprising if everyone agreed about the way forward after 2008. “The European Central Bank has now taken the view that more stimulus is required and we are seeing that policy rolled out now,” Nosbusch told Delano. In this way, October 2014

the ECB is now aligning itself more with actions taken by the US Federal Reserve. If the experts can’t agree, then there is even less clarity amongst voters. “There has been a temptation to blame the banks for the crisis but mainstream opinion realises the crisis is complex with many causes,” added Nosbusch. There has been the anti-capitalist rage of the Occupy movement, but the more mainstream response has been greater regulation. The move to force banks to hold greater reserves to ward off future crises has been widely supported. However some believe that too much regulation risks making banking clients too complacent and willing to take excessive risks with their savings. On the Luxembourg level, Nicolas Henckes is worried that governments have not changed course since the downturn. Growth has slowed and unemployment keeps rising. Jobs are being created but too often locally based job-candidates lack skills, so employers are turning to new immigrants and cross border commuters.

104,5 X 148 MM

FRANZ FAYOT Is Europe making the right moves?

“You are seeing French people with university degrees willing to drive two hours round trip to Luxembourg for relatively menial jobs,” said Henckes. He explains this saying the Luxembourgish minimum wage is higher than average salary in France. He also thinks more should be done to reduce the cost of living, with him recommending strong measures to moderate the cost of housing.

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CURRENT AFFAIRS

NEWSMAKERS

Text by DUNCAN ROBERTS

Photography by JULIEN BECKER

INSPIRING TRIP’S CROWD-FUNDED OUTLET Following six months in South America, Jorge and Anabela Valente are launching a biannual magazine with a fresh approach to travel writing and photography.

t took Anabela Valente just one month back at work in Luxembourg before she got itchy feet. “We are just longing to go again!” she exclaims. Together with husband Jorge, she spent six months travelling around South America on motorbike. Taking sabbatical leave from their respective jobs, they had the luxury of being able to take a spontaneous approach to the trip.

Their goal was to get to really know the countries and people of South America. Once across the Atlantic, and having taken delivery of their motorbike, the Valentes used Jorge’s Red Cross connections to visit at least one humanitarian project in each country, and rather than sleep in hotels they overnighted with locals they had befriended, at campsites or used the couch surfing network to find accommodation. “Before the trip, we thought the highlight would be photographing the amazing landscapes. But we realised very quickly that the highlight was meeting the people,” says Anabela.

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October 2014

DYNAMIC DUO Jorge and Anabela Valente have visited over 50 countries and now dream of making a living from travelling, photography and writing

The couple met other long time travellers, and realised they were just beginners--others had spent as long as 17 years on the road. “And there were all sorts of combinations, families, mothers and daughters… They just got on with it,” says Jorge. Inspired by the stories of fellow travellers and Jorge’s own passion for magazines, the Valentes decided to launch the bi-annual Diariesof. Each magazine will focus on a different country from their trip and, as well as their own writing and photography, will include contributions from other photographers, bloggers and travellers. “It is not meant as a guide with lists of recommendations for hotels or sites to see,” explains Jorge. “It is about experiences.” Finance came through crowd-funding site Ulule, with which Jorge was already familiar. They reached their goal by mid September and the first edition, focused on Chile, is published in October. “We were so inspired by our journey, the magazine is our way to give something back and to inspire others.”

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Rich country thinktank OECD proposed international rules to crackdown on companies’ “artificial shifting of profits to jurisdictions to avoid paying tax.” Video streaming service Netflix launched in Luxembourg and five other European countries. In a case about flight delays, the European Court of Justice ruled an airplane has arrived when its doors open. European investors moved into bond funds and out of “alternative” funds over the summer, research firm Lipper said.

BITCOIN BOOST

Three month old bitcoin startup CoinPlus says it received first round funding of €172,500 and that it is already in the process of obtaining a license to trade in the virtual currency. Based at the Technoport in Esch-Belval, the firm was due to meet with financial regulator CSSF as Delano went to press. CoinPlus CEO Christian Bodt expects another round of funding later this year.

"I AM CONFIDENT IN THE SUCCESS OF BITCOIN AND ITS POTENTIAL TO EVENTUALLY BECOME THE LARGEST WORLDWIDE CURRENCY" CHRISTIAN BODT

CHINA CONNECTIONS

A sixth major Chinese bank plans to open up shop in the Grand Duchy. Bank of Communications, China’s fifth largest bank, will begin its local operations by the end of the year, Pierre Gramegna, Luxembourg’s finance minister, said in an early September press conference. Days later China’s central bank named the Luxembourg branch of Industrial and Commercial Bank of China as the Grand Duchy’s renminbi clearing bank. That means financial transactions will be settled directly between the two nations, which Luxembourg hopes will boost investment flows to Europe and Beijing hopes will help make the yuan a global reserve currency. Clearing banks had already been appointed for Frankfurt, London and Paris. More at: delano.lu/category/keywords/china

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The website aims to draw clean technology outfits to Luxembourg. Deputy prime minister Étienne Schneider calls the sector “promising”.

Delano’s publisher marks its 20th anniversary with a free app featuring a digital archive of all its titles. maisonmoderne.lu/20/en/

The Paul Wurth COO takes over as the engineering firm’s CEO from Marc Solvi, who has held the post since 1998, at the end of the year.

October 2014

Christian Bodt: Laurent Antonelli/CoinPlus > Etienne Schneider: Olivier Minaire (archives) > Pierre Gramegna: Christophe Olinger > Georges Rassel: Paul Wurth

Luxembourg has regained its place among the 20 most competitive economies in the world, according to the World Economic Forum. The Grand Duchy ranked 19 out of 144 territories studied in the 2014-2015 Global Competitiveness Index. The country had last figured in the top 20 in 2010, when it held 20th place.

Five Luxembourg financial firms will have to answer to Frankfurt starting next month. After a nearly year-long review, the institutions were named to the European Central Bank’s “final list of significant credit institutions”, meaning the five will fall under the “direct supervision” of the ECB. The banks are BCEE, Precision Capital (which owns BIL and KBL), RBC Investor Services, State Street and the Luxembourg business of Swiss bank UBS. None of the five banks provided comment to Delano. Clearstream, named to the ECB’s preliminary list of 130 large banks last year, joined dozens of the Grand Duchy’s other banks on the “less significant institutions” list. The ECB says both lists will be updated “regularly”. The ECB’s criteria: delano.lu/news/five-frankfurt

€9BN FEES QUASHED

MasterCard lost its last appeal against a 2007 European Commission order at the European Court of Justice. The judges ruled MasterCard has to stop charging European merchants “multilateral interchange fees”, which along with Visa add up to €9bn annually, according to Eurocommerce (a party against MasterCard). MasterCard Europe’s president says the decision was “disappointing”.

CARTE BLANCHE

COUNTING CRIME

Accurately tallying illegal activity in national statistics is economically important but does not infer a moral judgment, says Carlo Klein. Is economics a value free “science”? This question comes up quite regularly in the economic debate and the problem can easily be illustrated with the following simple example. At the end of September Statec, the Grand Duchy’s official statistics bureau, published for the first time Luxembourg’s national accounts following the introduction of a new European System of National and Regional Accounts (ESA) methodology. Research and development, financial, international and some other transactions--considered as illegal or undeclared, such as prostitution and drugs transactions--will be recorded in a more accurate way. The expected result should be an improved estimate of our GDP, a quantitative indicator measuring the economic value created during a given period of time (often calculated each quarter and each year) by considering all economic transactions in a country. In general, there are difficulties obtaining accurate empirical economic indicators due to the fact that not all transactions are or can be registered officially (do-it-yourself activities, black markets and illegal activities, for example). So, from the economic point of view it makes sense to try to evaluate the real value of economic transactions including, as much as possible, undeclared or illegal activities.The result for Luxembourg should be a low but significant increase of GDP by 0.2% (and from 0% to 5% for all EU countries, according to initial estimates from Statec). The consequences of this methodological change can be considered as an example of positive economics, a value-free description of what the economy really looks like. Now, from a normative point of view, GDP is also considered as a (flawed) indicator of

economic well-being and as a tool for policy purposes (like growth rates and the ratio of public debt to GDP). Of course, nobody will seriously suggest investments in these specific activities to boost the economy and to create jobs, but nevertheless these methodological changes show that economics and the analysis of an economy are not value-free. This had already been stated by Daniel M. Hausman and Michael S. McPherson in 1993: “Ethics determines the ends and economics defines the means.” We also have to mention that identical economic activities will be considered in different countries (or not, which is the case in the United States, for example) even if legal frameworks may differ from one country to another (from Sweden to Germany for prostitution, from the Netherlands to Luxembourg for “soft drugs”, for example). This simple example illustrates the fact that economic analysis may either be limited to simple descriptions of an economy or be based on ethical issues and then becomes normative. On the one hand empirical indicators should capture all economic activity whatever we think about these activities from an ethical or moral point of view. On the other hand if we use these same indicators for policy issues then I think that moral and ethical issues come into play. This distinction is, at least in my eyes, not always made in public discussions of these concepts. By the way, there has been almost no discussion of this new method here in Luxembourg, whereas you could find public discourse in other countries. Carlo Klein teaches economics and social sciences at the Athénée de Luxembourg and international economics at Miami University in Differdange. October 2014

MasterCard: Håkan Dahlström/Creative Commons > Carlo Klein: Annabelle Denham

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SNAPSHOT

Text by ZUZA REDA-JAKIMA

Photography by BENJAMIN CHAMPENOIS

PICASSO’S JOURNEY TO LUXEMBOURG

o more safety concerns about that Monet landscape of yours. The same goes for the three-carat diamond necklace you hardly have an occasion to wear and the vintage wine that you still haven’t had the time to drink. The Luxembourg Freeport opened its doors on 17 September (see page 34) meaning one can rent a safe box, store valuables and even sell them to interested collectors. The €53 million facility is expected to have a positive impact on the country’s economy including the asset management, logistics and insurance sectors. That is because it is not only about storing valuable objects; the main reason for the investment is to attract international collectors and investors who will use the Freeport for tax free trading. “As long as the valuables stay in the Freeport, no VAT or excise tax is due,” Pierre Gramegna, the finance minister, said during Deloitte’s Art & Finance conference on 18 September. Officials also expect the Freeport will help attract art fairs and galleries to Luxembourg.

October 2014

MORE ON THE FREEPORT: DELANO.LU/ FREEPORT14 A. Pierre Gramegna B-C. Deloitte’s conference on the Luxembourg Freeport was held at the Philharmonie D. Francis Laporta, Franco Momente and François Andrieu E. Vincent Thyrion and Noeleen Goes-Farrell F. Serge Cammaert and Janneke Nijsen G. Philip M. Machat and Nicolas Mak H. Anca Alius and Lawrence O’Hana I. Audrey Limier, Chen Bao and Philippe Dajean

> OCTOBER 2014

Is securitization back and is Luxembourg ready to surf the Way ? Securitization was the craze up until the awakening of the financial crisis. It then became known as the source of everything evil, and the financial instrument that triggered the recession.

However, one should recall the notion of GIGO – “garbage in garbage out“– before condemning securitization outright. GIGO, a term coined by computer scientists in the early sixties, illustrates that the computer itself is a mere instrument, and does not transform poor data into exploitable data; analogously, securitization does not transform poor quality future cash flows into sound net present values. It is not the technique that needs to be condemned, but rather the excesses in its applications: securitization was heavily misused to spread worldwide debt of doubtful quality at the very origination stage.

Securitization is the transformation of future streams of cash flows into an upfront amount today. By 2008, the pooling together of loans, be it residential mortgages, credit card receivables or car loans, into specialized investment vehicles had reached overwhelming figures. That is, between MBS backed by mortgage loans of any kind (including subprime loans), and Asset Backed Securities (ABS backed by other types of debts), the outstanding amounts issued fetched almost USD 10,24 trillion in the US at the end of June 2008 (versus a GDP of USD 14 trillion), and USD 2,25 trillion in Europe.

The Government National Mortgage Association (GNMA) first initiated mortgages securitization in the seventies. Marine Midland Bank ventured into car loans in the eighties (60 million). And by 2008, the sector eventually reached a global issued amount close to the US GDP. Since its 2009 lows, the sector has been recovering quickly; it can attribute this turnover to its many pluses: funding cost reduction, assets liabilities mismatches alignment, lower capital requirements, risk transfer for the issuer, access to new asset categories and risk diversification for the investor. Recent IMF (March 2011) and BIS Papers (2013/255) confirm

We support your ambitions.

the attractiveness of the tool: “Securitization is not that evil.” and “Lessons learned and road ahead.” reaffirm, if need be, its advantages.

On January 11, 2014, The Economist stated, “the sector is (not only) back from the dead”, it is on the verge of a comeback. In fact, it is the ECB sponsoring this very resurgence. In 2013, European nonresidential mortgage backed issuance represented 25 times the 2009 figure of USD 4 billion.

Is Luxembourg ready to contribute to the making of the announced comeback? Yes it definitely is: its 2004 Law spurred the creation of 900 vehicles. And that is only a promising start …

Christian Mognol Global Relationship Management Leader, Tax and Law Advisors SGG Group

M christian.mognol@sgggroup.com T +352 466111 6455

www.sgggroup.com

BUSINESS

ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT

Text by STEPHEN EVANS

Photography by ANNABELLE DENHAM

UNKNOWN OR EXCLUSIVE? Boosting high-end tourism is one of the key opportunities during this month’s official trade mission to two key east Asian nations.

EAST ASIAN VISITORS Nearly 20,000 jobs are directly and indirectly linked to tourism. This has been boosted by increasing interest from Asia. China accounts for around a quarter of all nonEuropean visitors spending at least one night here, with over 35,000 making the trip. More than 6,000 Japanese and nearly 1,500 South Koreans made the 9,500km journey in 2013, even if most of these were probably business travellers rather than leisure tourists.

ery few Japanese and South Koreans have thought of travelling to visit Luxembourg. This makes the Grand Duchy a destination for the select few. The tourist industry will soon be taking this message on a trade mission to these countries this month, working alongside sectors that are well-established in the region such as logistics and automotive manufacturing. As well as the romance of castles, nature, culture and a spectacular capital, Luxembourg offers good food and vineyards, plus the allure of luxury shopping. “There is an element of exclusivity about Luxembourg,” Anne Hoffmann, managing director of the Luxembourg National Tourist Board, told Delano. This is the first time tourism will be included in a multi-sector trade mission organised by the economy ministry. This follows the merger with the tourism ministry last year.

TOURIST SITE: VISITLUXEMBOURG.COM

STANDING OUT It will not be easy to make an impression, but the presence of Crown Prince Guillaume and Princess Stéphanie will help the country stand out. The delegation will meet 40-50 tour operators and 10-12 journalists in Seoul and Tokyo. Even before the event, these efforts have had an effect, with Japan’s most popular travel show planning to record a feature in the Grand Duchy. As well as its history and nature, the country offers exclusive high-quality consumerism. “There are many top brands here often stocking limited edition items, with all the shops just 5-10 minutes walk from each other,” Hoffmann added. “Plus our streets are October 2014

ANNE HOFFMANN Promoting the Grand Duchy as a shopping and nature destination

free of the muggings you see in some big towns.” Luxembourg’s branding is also helped by this being the home of the Schengen visa: what every Asian needs before they visit the EU. The Luxembourg Film Fund will also participate as it seeks to build relations with two of the largest movie industries in the world. Finance will be absent though, as this industry organises separate promotion trips. “These missions help businesses understand and approach the very different business cultures found around the world,” explained Jeannot Erpelding, director of international affairs at the Luxembourg Chamber of Commerce.

China has become the biggest player in the region, but “Japan and South Korea are very important markets to us and we visit regularly,” he pointed out. The proof is that up to 40 business representatives will participate. These visits promote exports and the country as a gateway to the EU. Japanese firms establishing European headquarters here recently include Rakuten, the online retailer, and IT firm Skeed. Korean online gaming firms MoyaSoft and Nexon are also relatively new arrivals. For more information about the 6-11 October mission to Japan and South Korea, see luxembourgforbusiness.com.

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BANKING

Text by TONYA STONEMAN

Photography by MIKE ZENARI

WELCOME TO THE FAMILY Luxembourg has introduced regulation of “family offices”, which sets the country apart in Europe and the US. But industry leaders are calling for even more rules.

y all accounts, Luxembourg’s financial centre weathered the economic crisis with relatively minor setbacks and has continued its business of wealth management uninterrupted. Some might even say that, in this small corner of the world, there has been a silver lining in the whole affair. One positive outcome, for instance, has been the formal establishment of family offices. Diana Diels of Luxembourg for Family Office, an industry promotion group, has been working for the past several years to bring this business model to the Grand Duchy and ensure its success. “Luxembourg post crisis had to reinvent the future of the financial place,” she says. Diels remembers when the country saw an influx of sceptical asset managers and bankers from Germany, Belgium and other countries, who left their banks and began setting up family offices here. “After the crisis, wealthy people did not trust banks anymore,” she recalls. “I knew expats from America who wanted to move a modest amount to Luxembourg. We needed places that could do this kind of work without conflict of interest with the Big Four, banks or service providers. We need a regulated place to keep wealthy families’ affairs out of the public eye.” DIFFERENT FUNCTIONS In Diels’ view, Luxembourg is a handin-glove fit for this kind of business because of its economic and political stability. “Family businesses are special, not only for families but also to our society and the private enterprise system,” she says. “It’s not asset management, but a control function. The goal is not fiscal optimisation, but wealth preservation.” October 2014

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Indeed, family offices serve a host of different functions like helping families maximise their business potential, develop their business policies, establish business succession and advocate for the next generation. “The family office has existed since Roman times, really, but the concept is relatively new in Luxembourg at this point,” says Diels, “so we need regulations that will create a legal structure through which we can promote our expertise and develop a marketing label. Within this context, we needed legislation to protect the profession.”

"IT’S NOT ASSET MANAGEMENT, BUT A CONTROL FUNCTION. THE GOAL IS NOT FISCAL OPTIMISATION, BUT WEALTH PRESERVATION." DIANA DIELS

Historically, single-family offices didn’t have to register with the Securities and Exchange Commission, one of America’s main financial regulators, because of an exemption provided to advisers with fewer than 15 clients. While the recent DoddFrank act repealed the private adviser exemption, the legislation included a provision requiring the SEC to define “family offices” and to exclude them from registration under the new law. Hence, a family office is now defined as an entity that services only family clients, is owned and controlled by family clients, and does not perform the functions of an investment adviser. This broad definition leaves the door wide open for creative interpretation, which is why Diels is working so hard with local policy makers to define their functions. “The Luxembourg government sees an opportunity to develop the country for high net worth individuals and family offices would attract people to invest here,” says Venetia Lean of Banque October 2014

REGULATE US A. Diana Diels is promoting industry standards B. Serge Krancenblum supports the proposed private foundation bill

Havilland, a private bank. “The problem is anyone can put the family office name on their business without really delivering the services.” That said, she points to regulatory authorities like the CSSF and the specialised investment fund law, which was updated last year, as helpful solutions to this problem. Additionally, Luxembourg is home to abundant numbers of lawyers and tax advisors who understand trust structures and estate planning well enough to provide legitimacy to the local industry. UNDERDEVELOPED MARKET “Family offices are very diverse in Luxembourg in what they do and what they want to do,” Lean says. “But the market here is very underdeveloped compared with the UK and the US. Most are just one-person operations and they are limited.” She attributes this to a simple lack of awareness. “Wealthy people are looking for alternative places to shelter their money,” she says. “But most have never thought of Luxembourg because it isn’t being promoted.

There are few true family offices here. The government needs to change that.” Serge Krancenblum of SGG, a service provider, sees recent developments as a sign of good things to come. “We are the only country in Europe with a specific regulation for family offices,” he says. “Luxembourg is pushing for transparency of remuneration on investments and families and benchmarking of retrocessions. These measures will ensure a situation where our reputation is not tainted by those who take the title of family office without regulation.” Krancenblum is hopeful that Bill 6595, the new law on private foundations, will pass by the year’s end thereby adding another legal vehicle in which to structure assets. “It’s easy to set up a family office here,” he says. “There are professionals on hand here for institutional and corporate clients and they offer sophisticated solutions. The Grand Duchy is home to a high calibre community of professionals who have practice and skills in all domains of wealth.”

Opportunities lie ahead

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NORDIC FORUM

Text by AARON GRUNWALD

Photography by SVEN BECKER

BLUNT TALK

NORDIC INVESTMENT MANAGERS FORUM: NIMF.LU

Nordic folks are known for plain speaking. The advantages of that reputation will be showcased during an upcoming Nordic investment conference.

n 2 October five Nordic asset managers share their frank views with professional investors during Luxembourg’s first Nordic Investment Managers Forum. Organisers expect 50-75 managers from private banks, family offices, pension funds and the like to attend, says one of the conference planners, Mike Judith of DNB Asset Management. Not all of those folks are based in Luxembourg. Belgian, French, Germany, UK and naturally Nordic firms are signing up. Judith argues that the Nordic style of management is an advantage. It “boils down to the very transparent approach that we have.” His firm, like many from the region, publishes “the holdings of our funds on our web page. This is not secured by password. Everyone can access it and see what’s inside the funds that we manage. You won’t get that when you talk to other big names.” Such openness extends to fees. “Let’s call a spade a spade,” says one of the conference presenters, Kim Asger Olsen of the five year old Luxembourg investment firm Origo. Up north “what you see is what you get. Transparency is [less] seen as you go more south, where you don’t discuss what you charge for your services.” “Customers know what they’re paying for,” he says about his own outfit. “We try to keep costs for everything we do down and make it transparent for our clients. We believe that in five, ten years from now everyone will work the way we do but we wanted to be ahead of the curve.” In addition, “you can see we have a very lean hierarchy within Nordic banks, so it’s easy access to decision makers,” adds Judith. October 2014

NORDIC TRANSPARENCY A. Mike Judith says openness is an asset B. Kim Asger Olsen believes in “what you see is what you get” (both photographed at the Abbaye de Neumünster, site of the conference)

Olsen, an economist who previously headed up Nordea Bank’s investment management business in Luxembourg, reckons another strength of the Nordic region that could resonate in the Grand Duchy is its inherently global mindset. “It’s a group of small countries; we’re constantly open to what’s happening in the rest of the world. You can’t focus on your bellybutton when you’re four million people.” In true Nordic fashion, the forum features “decision makers who issue clear statements, clear opinions,” says Judith. “You get an honest opinion here… our

true view of the market. That actually means, if we were negative on tech stocks we would say so. Although we would like to sell our tech funds too, we are not always positive; we also send out warning signals.” At the conference, Olsen provides his outlook for the global economy, which is not particularly positive when it comes to the old continent, despite recently frothiness. After “slow growth for five years European markets are so positive that just around the corner ‘it’ will happen… but they’re disappointed again, again and again.”

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LOGISTICS

HIGH-TECH DEPOT Streff is building a robot-run storage site near the Belgian border.

ost people know Streff as a moving company, overtaking their green logo lorries on Luxembourg motorways. Lesser known is that one main part of Streff’s business is the storage and archiving of everything from companies’ financial data to priceless family heirlooms. Earlier this year the firm started building a new high-tech storage facility in Windhof with a total capacity of 70,000 cubic metres. When completed, it will be possible to stack up six shipping containers on top of one another with enough room for around 700 individual containers, with no space for human entry. Utilising a new computer controlled crane, storage containers will be delivered directly to owners in their own private viewing room, to collect or inspect what’s within. Streff says it will be the only company in Luxembourg and in Europe with this type of system, which will “complement other specialist storage facilities, such as

the Freeport at Findel” and add to its customers’ sense of privacy and trust. Trust is an important issue when it comes to storing extremely valuable goods, reckons Streff’s managing director, Stefan Chorus. When talking about his new warehouse, he argues that it would be “interesting for people to store anything that needs to be protected on a very flexible basis in a very secure environment.” He also stresses the importance of a client’s needs being achieved in a personal way, ensuring that they are offered the most pleasant experience possible whilst knowing their possessions are in safe hands. With Luxembourg real estate prices continuing to soar (see page 38), space has become a precious commodity. So Streff expects that this new storage centre will be in high demand. It plans to open the facility in February 2015.

LUXEMBOURG FREEPORT: LUXFREEPORT.LU

SUPER WAREHOUSE

Text by JAMES WALKER STEFAN CHORUS Expects strong demand for storage site

MORE LOGISTICS NEWS: DELANO.LU

The 22,000 square metre Luxembourg Freeport opened last month at Findel airport, offering everything from small boxes and vaults to enormous safe rooms. “This is not an exterritorial zone, however, and if the goods leave the Freeport, a 6% VAT applies,” says finance minister Pierre Gramegna. “All other Luxembourgish laws are equally in place and we have put an extremely strong focus on transparency.” For this reason only certified companies, and not individuals, can rent space in the facility. Additional safety measures include screening of all incoming objects, constant monitoring, as well as 24-hour customs service accessibility to all rooms. ZR-J

ALREADY HALF FULL

“We see a huge demand for our service. Already 60% of the Freeport is rented,” David Arendt, head of the Luxembourg Freeport, said during Deloitte 2014 Art & Finance conference on 18 September (see page 24). The value of objects stored at the Luxembourg Freeport may amount to several billion euros, he told Delano during Q&A with conference attendees. October 2014

Stefan Chorus: Steve Eastwood > Inside secure zone: Luxembourg Freeport > David Arendt: Benjamin Champenois

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PERSONAL BUSINESS

Text by STEPHEN EVANS

Photography by SVEN BECKER

IS LUXEMBOURG EXPENSIVE?

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Are Luxembourg’s shops more expensive than those just across the border? A couple of surveys suggest that on the whole they are. Despite this, Luxembourg residents have some of the highest spending power in the world.

upermarket grocery prices in the neighbouring regions are compared every few years in a survey by the government’s Price Formation Observatory. In a report released in September they found that on average prices last autumn in Wallonia, Belgium were 2.2% more expensive but 4.8% cheaper in Lorraine, France and 9.9% cheaper in the German regions home to Trier and Saarbrücken. The survey looked at goods including food, drink, household liquids and personal hygiene in 21 medium to large supermarkets. The foreign shops were all 30-50km from the border, and where possible prices were taken in supermarkets that trade in several countries. These results should be used with some caution though. German law prevents in-store surveys, so only the prices paid at the till can be used. This compares to the shelf prices taken in the other three countries. These prices tend to be higher. Also, the survey uses average of prices for identical items found either side of the border. This requirement meant that certain areas of grocery spending were not sufficiently taken into account. A different approach to this question was taken by the Swiss bank UBS in its 2012 report Prices and Earnings. It compared the prices of 122 broadly similar goods and services representing everything that people buy including food, motoring, housing, electrical goods and so on. UBS did this in 72 business capitals, finding that Luxembourg was roughly 10% more expensive than Paris and Frankfurt and 20% more pricey than Brussels. October 2014

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PURCHASING POWER Hope they took coupons

Things look better, though, when looking at spending power. UBS worked out how much stuff can be bought given average annual income. Luxembourg came third out of the 72 towns in the survey, with 25% more spending power than Paris and Brussels and 12% more than those living and working in Frankfurt. Put another way, you only had to work 11 minutes to earn enough to buy a Big Mac in Luxembourg. In Paris and Frankfurt, they needed to work five minutes more to pay for the McDonald’s signature dish.

Why is Luxembourg more expensive? The Price Formation Observatory pointed to differences in taxes, regulations and salaries. A major factor is that German and French supermarket groups are part of big, efficient distribution networks. Despite the EU single market, Belgium and Luxembourg are frequently excluded. Also suppliers and producers often charge higher wholesale prices to Luxembourg shops. As well, competition is tough in Germany, where “hard discount” shops like Lidl and Aldi account for over 40% of market share. This forces the more up-market supermarkets to react.

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October 2014

PERSONAL BUSINESS

Text by STEPHEN EVANS

Photography by SVEN BECKER

HOUSE PRICES: BUBBLE TROUBLE? “Rocketing real estate prices must be contained to enable our fellow citizens to have access to affordable housing,” said last December’s government coalition agreement. Something like this has been official policy for decades, but prices and rent remain high. Will this continue or is a bubble about to burst?

PLANNING AHEAD Apartments are often built long before they are occupied

he cost of buying a home in Luxembourg has increased by nearly 80% above inflation since 2000 (see chart on next page); that is 4.5% in real terms per year. Prices have stabilised since 2007 but the underlying trend appears to be upwards. “It’s crazy. We’re just looking for a modest house not too far away from town but everything is much more expensive than we expected or sold before we have chance to think,” a frustrated house hunter told Delano. Decent, not extravagant three-bedroom houses in a suburb on the city bus network are going for more than €700,000. This equates to monthly mortgage payments around €2,500 over 25 years but if interest rates return to their longer term norm that would rise to €3,500. That’s after having shelled out the 20% deposit most banks are looking for these days. In the centre of town prices are at least a third higher, but go 15-20km from the city and prices drop by a similar amount. As for apartments, the government’s Housing Observatory put the range for a 100 square metre place in the capital from €740,000 for a prime property to €360,000 for an older, less well located place. This hits lower earners the most. The average gross salary is around €3,500, on which banks are unlikely to lend much more than €250,000. A couple of decades ago this was enough to buy a decent house close to the centre. Good deals can be found for those with the time to keep a close eye on property websites and follow up quickly. However, recent arrivals

to Luxembourg are disadvantaged by not having the contacts to tell them about bargains. There are good reasons for prices having risen. Borrowing is cheap, with buyers able to fix mortgage rates at below 2% for 10 years. Also, the population has grown quickly in the last three decades and this has been particularly strong since the crisis. Pre-2008, the number of residents tended to increase by more than 1% per year, but since 2008 this rate has doubled. Mainly this is due to immigrants arriving in search of work. As well, increased divorce rates are also leading to smaller sized average households. There is little hard evidence of property speculators bidding up prices. Meanwhile housing supply has not kept up. The government reckons 3,400 new homes need to be built each year to match demand but this was achieved only three times since 1990. Every town and village has empty houses and building plots, leading to calls for a speculation tax on unused property. However, governments have been wary as often there are good reasons for these vacancies such as health, financing or inheritance issues. Incidentally, the type of homes being built has changed in recent years. Currently, about 2.5 apartments are built for every house but in the early 1990s the split was roughly 50/50. This is another result of building land having become so rare and expensive. WHY NOT BUILD MORE HOMES? Finding building land is a problem. Prime plots exist, but owners are often reluctant to sell or agree a common plan. A familiar example is the place de l’Étoile in the capital: a juicy chunk of land that has remained undeveloped for more than two decades as rival owners bicker over the details. The previous government’s “Housing Plan” involved offering generous inducements to communes to grow their

populations. This has helped but has not been sufficient. The new government recently announced its intention to extend the amount of land potentially available for home building, but this has not generated much excitement. An independent real estate agent told Delano that he is sceptical much will change. “Unless you tackle the conservatism of communes and cut red tape in the ministries this won’t make much difference,” he complained.

"I WON’T MAKE THAT MISTAKE AGAIN" LUXEMBOURG REAL ESTATE AGENT

“Planning laws are a nightmare in this country,” he said. “Re-zoning land for house building takes years. First you have to get the commune to agree, but often they don’t want the hassle. Voters are often opposed to noisy, dirty building projects on their doorstep and people run to the courts at the first opportunity.” Even with the commune onside, then you have to get agreement from national administrations responsible for the environment, roads, utilities and others. “I bought a building plot on a residential road, in a row of houses but which was not designated for building land in the plans,” said the property agent. “In November it will be three years since I started working to have these plans changed, even for this uncontroversial plan. I won’t make that mistake again,” he grumbled. Larger developers have teams working on this and they too find it a lengthy, discouraging process. The government says it wants to make housing more affordable, but would this be electorally popular? The vast majority of Luxembourgers (that is to say, voters) live in a house owned by one of the occupiers, so most are happy to see prices rise. Similarly it suits farmers and other landowners to sell small plots every now and again when they need a chunk of cash. October 2014

BUSINESS

PERSONAL BUSINESS

CONTINUED

BUYING IS COMPARATIVELY MORE EXPENSIVE THAN RENTING IN BELGIUM AND FRANCE; CHEAPER IN GERMANY AND IRELAND Ratio of home prices to rent* (long-term average=100)

250

200

150 Ireland 100

Germany France Belgium

2000

2001

2002

2003

2004

2005

2006

2007

2008

2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

HOMES ARE RELATIVELY MORE AFFORDABLE IN LUXEMBOURG THAN IN BELGIUM AND FRANCE Ratio of home prices per head income# (long-term average=100)

Luxembourg

250

200

150 Ireland 100

Germany France Belgium

50 2000

2001

2002

2003

2004

2005

2006

2007

2008

2009

2010

2011

2012

Luxembourg

2013

PRICES ON AVERAGE UP 4.5% ON TOP OF INFLATION ANNUALLY Residential housing prices adjusted for inflation‡ (2007=100)

120

100

60 Trend 40 2000

2001

2002

2003

2004

2005

In theory, governments could make a bold move to compulsorily purchase land for building use. This would be a very complicated, expensive process. It could be done, but would require a lot of political will. SO IS THERE A BUBBLE? Probably there is no bubble (see box). One exception might be in apartments. The real estate agent suggested that October 2014

2006

2007

2008

2009

2010

many new constructions remain unsold. “If promoters can sell two-thirds of the apartments in a block before construction, the banks will provide funding,” he noted. People often prefer to buy before construction to avoid 7% stamp duty tax on building costs. “Interest rates are so low that the promoters can wait years to sell everything, so many apartments remain empty.”

2011

2012

Prices

2013

The state of the economy is the main question mark over the future direction of house prices. Even with a misfiring euro zone economy, Luxembourg is doing okay, but if things turned sharply negative demand would fall. If interest rates returned to normal this would have an effect too. However, given current conditions prices are probably not seriously out of kilter with fundamentals.

IS THERE A HOUSING BUBBLE IN LUXEMBOURG? “Probably not” is the short answer according to a recent report, Revue de stabilité financière 2014, by the Luxem bourg Central Bank. In this they make no judgement about whether prices are “right” or “fair”, but whether they are much higher than would be expected given current levels of supply and demand. Bubbles usually occur when people speculate and by bidding up prices in the expectation they will continue to rise. There is little evidence of this at the moment. Economists have a couple of ways of testing if housing prices are sustainable. Affordability is measured by comparing home prices to income per head. Alternatively, looking at the ratio of prices to rent suggests whether property is a good investment. As the charts suggest, it appears that prices are not too far out of line with income and rent at about 20% above their long-term average. Compare this to Ireland, which has just suffered a major property boom and bust. By the mid2000s the price/ income ratio was around 80% higher than the long-term average with the price/rent ratio over double the norm.

Sources: *Bundesbank, CSO Ireland, INSEE, Luxembourg Central Bank, OECD, vpd Re search / #Bundesbank, CSO Ireland, INSEE, Luxembourg Central Bank, OECD, vpd Re search / ‡Statec, BCL

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Text by NEEL CHRILLESEN

Photography by SVEN BECKER

GETTING THE BEST OUT OF TRAINING In Luxembourg, 71% of companies offer some sort of training to their employees--more than ever before. It costs money; it takes time; but is it worth it? And how do you ensure both parties get what they need out of it?

have received training twice during my seven years working here,” says Gérard. “Once when we got new software and once when I was promoted, to help me adapt to my new position.” He works in a small company, thus falling into the category of employees who receive little continuous professional training. Only 61% of companies with 10-19 employees in Luxembourg offer ongoing training, while all companies of more than 250 employees do, according to the most recent Statec study on the subject. “Every year, we are sent to mandatory workshops,” says Anne, who works at one of the Big Four. “Sometimes it’s interesting, sometimes it’s a complete waste of time. We can also request specific training. Last year, I asked for English lessons to improve my small talk skills, which actually helped a lot when dealing with clients.” In Luxembourg, ongoing professional training represents 1.8% of companies’ total payroll. In the past ten years, the number of employers offering training has risen constantly and more people are benefitting from it, especially those who work in the finance and service sector. “When I started work after college in the eighties, it was very unlikely the employer would offer external training or send its teams on seminars,” says Phil Taylor of WSI Internet Marketing, which provides specialised courses. “As for the approval process for obtaining training, it was much more complicated. Today, employers tend to value both training and their employees more.” “I’d like to think that rather than make a good person redundant when his or October 2014

MAKE IT COUNT A. Catharina Biver: trainers need to stretch employees B. Phil Taylor: people need to know why they’re there

her skills are no longer needed, more and more companies decide to spend money to train or retrain employees and give them a new or better skill set,” says John Frank of Tower Training and Consulting. “Training is an effective morale booster, it keeps employees motivated and has been shown to reduce the level of employee turnover.” WILL THEY LEAVE? It is also a fact however that some get motivated to the point of leaving their employer once they’ve received training, in search of greener pastures. “I once

had an eight-hour ‘writing for engineers’ class,” recounts Karin. “It made me realise I was tired of being an engineer and that I’d rather be like the woman giving the class, dealing with words instead of numbers. She’s the reason I became a freelance technical writer.” For Luke, a former sales manager in a pharmaceutical company, training also resulted in a career change. “My boss sent me to a seminar to acquire a better insight in homeopathic remedies. I got so much into it, that I eventually left the company to work in that sector instead.”

LIFELONG LEARNING PORTAL: LIFELONG-LEARNING.LU

Though these examples don’t represent the majority of cases, David Holland of Results Rules OK, a training consultancy, agrees that it is a classic fear among employers: “Many think: ‘What if I train my staff and they leave?’ In reality they should be thinking: ‘What if I don’t train them and they stay?’” Holland sees several reasons for an increasing number of employers arranging training for their teams. “First of all, there are the expectations of the employees. The trend in academic inflation and increasingly transient career paths

means continued development is demanded by employees and seen as a key part of the remuneration package. The quality of the training in this regard is of importance too. There is also the market needs. In a fast paced economy with both technology and innovation creating new opportunities and challenges for companies, they have no choice but to keep their people at the forefront of knowledge and skill in the workplace. Client expectations and regulatory framework are important too. Clients are increasingly cautious about who they contract with. A solid programme of development and training is a USP that gives confidence to clients.” “Our business is growing and we needed to develop our people at the same rate,” says Chris Purdy of Greenfield Recruitment, which has tapped outside trainers like Holland’s firm. “Training enables us to keep ahead of the competition.” LIFELONG LEARNING “Companies want to be at the top of their game so they need employees that are too,” concurs Catharina Biver at Sparx Factory. “More and more realise that they need to support both

technical skills and soft skills. Before, soft skill training was used if there was a specific need or someone was struggling. Today, it’s less a question of fixing problems than of giving employees a platform and allowing them to grow. Most people want professional development; and satisfied and content employees don’t usually leave.” Companies in Luxembourg can receive co-funding for their training programmes, just as employees have the right to ask for support for continuing employment-related training (including special paid leaves and organisation of working time). In this respect, the “lifelong learning” portal is a central point of reference, not only for getting information but also for guidance and help finding the right course. The fact that your employer is not offering you professional training should in no way stop you from seeking it. For training to be a worthwhile investment though, it must be chosen wisely. If you have ever sat through hour-long power-point presentations, listening to someone read slide after slide about a topic heard many times before, you already know this. “It’s no good if training is just a lecture and

MORE RESOURCES Chamber of Employees courses lllc.lu Government support programmes guichet.public.lu Institute of Bank Training ifbl.lu Luxembourg School for Commerce (vocational training) lsc.lu Results Rules OK resultsrulesok.com Sparx Factory sparxfactory.com Tower Training & Consulting ttc.lu WSI wsiluxembourg.com

October 2014

BUSINESS

CAREERS

CONTINUED

people don’t know why they are there,” argues Taylor. “Companies must be specific when sending their employees to a course. There must be a logic behind it, a goal.”

"THE GOAL OF TRAINING IS TO PROVIDE NEW AND BETTER WAYS OF WORKING EFFECTIVELY AND EFFICIENTLY" JOHN FRANK

“You need trainers who can stretch employees and their competences, who understand that everyone is different,” adds Biver, whose firm offers soft skills training. “There’s a great need to look at the individual, to build on his or her strengths. A group of people simply listening to a teacher isn’t very effective. The most powerful combination is a workshop on a specific topic with a group where you get input from others, followed by one-to-one tailor-made sessions.” SET GOOD GOALS But getting the method right isn’t the only challenge. “The goal of training is to provide new and better ways of working effectively and efficiently,” in Frank’s view. “To make sure training is successful it’s also important to proceed logically. For instance, senior managers should have received the training before the other employees. There’s nothing worse for the trainees than trying to implement what they have just learned and meeting resistance from superiors. If the senior managers have not had the training, then they must at least be willing to enthusiastically support and permit the use of the new techniques or tools and provide active reinforcement for the use of the new training on-the-job.” Holland advises companies that want their training to succeed that: “The key is to clearly define which benefits, improvements and results are anticipated October 2014

C. John Frank: training is a process, not an event

as a consequence. The main reason training is provided should be for the benefit of the organisation, and whilst there are certain intangible side effects such as moral, loyalty and team spirit, where possible, outcomes, performance measures and objectives should be distinctly stated before the training starts. Treat training as a process not

an event. Plan and prepare carefully before and follow up afterwards. Employees should know exactly why they are participating, and what they should achieve individually or collectively as a consequence. Training is not a punishment, it has to be seen as a reward and part of someone’s professional and personal development.”

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TEN EVENTS

PAYMENTS TALK

Delano presents a selection of upcoming business and networking events for Luxembourg’s international community. Advance registration or fees may be required, so consult the website indicated for full details. Tue 21 Oct All events are held in English unless otherwise noted. RISKY LECTURE

INNOVATION PITCH

Clearstream clearstream-events.com Jean Dermine of INSEAD delivers the annual “Talking Finance Colloquium” organised with the Luxembourg School of Finance on risk management and the shadow banking system. Space is limited. Abbaye de Neumünster, 18:30

Irish chamber ilcc.lu Entrepreneurs get grilled by a panel of judges about their business plans. The best pitches will be awarded prizes from Irish chamber sponsors. Followed by networking cocktails. Mudam, Luxembourg-Kirchberg, 16:30

Mon 6 Oct

Fri 17 Oct

43,5 X 23 MM

Nobelux nobelux.se As part of the Nordic chamber’s After Work series, bankers will discuss mobile payments, virtual currencies, cyber payments and credit card fraud. But you don’t have to pay to get in. Advanzia Bank, Munsbach, 18:00

SCHOOL LUNCH

OXFORD CRISIS DEBATE VS Wed 5 Nov club.paperjam.lu In the club’s first Oxford Union Debate, the motion is: “Economic crisis: have we learned the right lessons?” For: Yves Nosbusch of BGL BNP Paribas and Jean-Pierre Zigrand of the London School of Economics. Against: LSAP MP Franz Fayot and Nicolas Henckes of the UEL (see page 18 for more). Banque de Luxembourg, Luxembourg-Centre, 18:00

43,5 X 23 MM

Mon 3 Nov

Amcham amcham.lu At November’s ABAL luncheon Chris Bowman, serving his last year as head of the International School of Luxembourg, argues that “one size does not fit all” when it comes to education. Sofitel, Luxembourg-Kirchberg, 12:00

DIWALI

WORKING WORKSHOP

43,5 X 23 MM

Sat 18 Oct

Wed 15 Oct The Network thenetwork.lu A primer for women looking to get into Luxembourg’s job market. Speakers include Anita De Viell of the Fast recruitment firm and experts from Adem, the state employment bureau. Sofitel, Luxembourg-Kirchberg, 19:00

Indian chamber ibcl.lu IBCL’s Diwali 2014 celebration features a Bollywood beats & musical dance show, Indian cuisine and DJ dancing till 1 a.m. Tickets come with a free tombola voucher. Always fun. Casino 2000 Chapito, Mondorf, 18:30

43,5 X 23 MM

DRIVE SAFE

Fri 14 Nov

TURKISH STARTUPS

43,5 X 23 MM

Wed 5 Nov

TLBC info@tlbc.lu Seminar on startups and venture capital in Turkey’s technology sector, organised by the Turkey Luxembourg Business Club and Economist Club Luxembourg. Chamber of Commerce, Luxembourg-Kirchberg, 16:30

British chamber bcc.lu The chamber’s annual winter weather driving course includes “some theory, some driving--and a lot of fun.” Plus a chance to test drive new BMWs, Land Rovers and Minis. Driver training centre, Colmar-Berg, 09:00-16:30

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October 2014

Bitcoins: Antana/Creative Commons

Fri 14 Nov

ALFI alfi.lu Luxembourg and UK experts discuss alternative investment management company structuring, “super mancos”, alternative fund distribution and regulations, and more. Good networking. 8 Northumberland Avenue, London-Westminster, all day

Meeting the growing training needs of a cosmopolitan working population Training Courses in English The LSC is the Chamber of Commerce’s continuing vocational education and training department, answering the evolving qualification and skills needs of Luxembourg’s companies.

COURSE

START DATE

ACCOUNTING Accounting crash course

October 14, 2014

Accounting system and software – Introduction to Sage BOB 50

October 6, 2014

LAW Company Law Crash Course

October 8, 2014

Labour Law

November 18, 2014

ECONOMY Exploring the social, political and business environment of Luxembourg

November 3, 2014

TAX Introduction to Luxembourg VAT

November 11, 2014

VAT on international delivery chains: Supply of goods and logistic services

March 16, 2015

HUMAN RESOURCES AND TRAINING Payroll essentials

October 10, 2014

INNOVATION AND CREATIVITY November 25, 2014

Information and registration: www.lsc.lu CONTACT 7, rue Alcide de Gasperi L-2981 Luxembourg

T : (+352) 42 39 39-220 F : (+352) 42 39 39-820

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Gaining competitive advantage through service design

BUSINESS

Text by AARON GRUNWALD

Photography by ANNABELLE DENHAM

SUPER MARIO DIORAMAS Luxembourger hobbyist Wuppes makes detailed 3D reproductions of classic video games… in paper, cardboard and foam rubber.

MY OTHER LIFE

Luxembourger hobbyist is making an international name for himself with his original and detailed pieces of art. For nearly two years now “Wuppes” has been making faithful 3D dioramas of classic video games, and his work has garnered favourable reviews from--among others--Japanese website RocketNews24.com and the UK’s Official Nintendo Magazine. In “real” life he’s Alain Wildgen, a communications technician at Post Luxembourg and father of two who grew up on an ostrich farm. “Early last year, I started making some gaming figures with paper, which I saw on an internet site,” he says. “There I came across a picture of a Super Mario level and decided to copy it. The result was the Super Mario Level 1-1 picture” seen here. “Cutting out the individual boxes with a scalpel from the paper and sealing it together with adhesive was very time consuming; about 30 hours for the planning and crafting,” Wuppes explains. “Now I had my Mario picture hung in the party room [in the cellar] and thought: ‘So, what can I do next?’ Immediately, I had the map of Zelda A Link to the Past in my head. I tried it at first with thin cardboard for the layers, which, however, was not good at all… it was very inaccurate in cutting out with the scalpel. So I started looking in a craft store, Cactus, for better material and came across the Moosgummi foam rubber paper by Rayher. This is a kind of sponge paper and is very precise when cutting with the scalpel.” “After finishing the Zelda map, I was motivated to do more dioramas of my favourite childhood games. So I got started.” Since then he’s made more than two dozen dioramas. Having gained more October 2014

experience, each image now only takes 15 to 20 hours to create. He also started experimenting with new materials. “Most frames… I buy at Ikea” and “for Bubble Bobble I cut the frame into one piece of Styropor.” On his Tumblr page, Wuppes “posted a tutorial with templates of the Zelda map online, so everyone can remake it for his wall.” Last spring the artist had the chance to show off his work at LuxCon, Luxembourg’s first science fiction, fantasy and horror convention, “which was very amazing.”

Yet despite the international interest, making the 3D pieces remains a pastime. “I got positive reactions and a lot of people were asking if I am selling my dioramas. But for now, it’s just a hobby, for my party cellar,” he says. “I don’t sell my dioramas. It’s just a hobby for me and I’m happy to inspire people to make their own game dioramas.” And asked why his works are only hanging in his cellar, Wuppes replies: “Because of my wife. She is not a gamer. She only likes Bubble Bobble.”

WUPPES Alain Wildgen and his “Super Mario Level 1-1”. See more images at wuppes.tumblr.com

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s g n i n e p o w e N eral new stores openingn of the cit y centre with sev ld ho a ing with Italian desig tak is ion ce sh Fa minates the cit y ntre, do ll sti ry xu Lu er. mm over the su still popular. and French chic clearly

COMMON MISCONCEPTIONS

GRAND DUCHY FILES

LABEL SHOWCASE They may have been jailed for holding a Luxembourg shell company, but Dolce & Gabbana are still shifting their men’s and ladies’ fashions and accessories. The brand now has a new designer space in the city centre with wood flooring and plush armchairs. Where: 7 rue Philippe II, Luxembourg-Centre Info: dolcegabbana.com

ITALIAN CHIC After 18 years in Belair, Fabienne en Ville is now open in town. The store features Italian urban chic fashion brands for women, such as Roberto Collina, Violenti and the up-and-coming Up to be--not to mention Fabienne’s own designs. Where: 11a place du Théâtre, Luxembourg-Centre Info: fabienneenville.lu

MENSWEAR Fashion conscious men can now grab the latest ready to wear designs from the likes of luxury brands Moncler, Givenchy, Balenciaga and Phillip Lim at Smets blk, the latest addition to the Smets chain. The new store also carries cutting-edge sneakers. Where: 20 rue Beaumont, Luxembourg-Centre Info: smets.lu

CASHMERE Favoured by Monica Bellucci, self-styled king of cashmere Eric Bompard’s designs are now available in Luxembourg. The city centre store features classic men’s, women’s and even children’s lines as well as Bompard’s trendier LABO brand. Where: 17 rue Philippe II, Luxembourg-Centre Info: eric-bompard.com

October 2014

e have all heard the stories, apocryphal or not, of tourists mistaking the Banque et Caisse d’Épargne de l’État or even the now abandoned headquarters of ArcelorMittal for the Grand Ducal palace. These tales make we longer-term residents of Luxembourg snicker and feel superior. But a few recent experiences have illustrated that many veterans of living in Luxembourg, and even natives who have been here all their lives apart from the years spent at university, still suffer from some common misconceptions, confusing buildings and institutions. For instance, one hip young Luxembourger did not know that the annual International Bazaar, a highlight of the Advent season, was different from the Red Cross Bazaar that is held a week beforehand. There are still people who turn up at the Utopia cinema in Limpertsberg hoping to catch a blockbuster that is actually screening at the Utopolis complex in Kirchberg. Further confusion surrounds the capital city’s largest theatre close to the Rond-Point Schuman in Limpertsberg. It is not home to the Théâtre National du Luxembourg. No, the building, which urban legend has it was modelled on a design originally intended for Africa (thus the small windows), is actually the Grand Théâtre (or “de Groussen Theatre” in Luxembourgish), and is owned by the Ville de Luxembourg. It was built in 1964 to offer a larger capacity venue than the Capucins theatre and now, under the direction of Frank Feitler, attracts a great programme of prestigious visiting dance, theatre and opera companies. Despite its grand name, the Théâtre National (which was only founded in 1996) is actually housed in a much more modest venue, a converted smithy in Merl that it has occupied since 2004. Both theatres put on English-language productions and both are well worth visiting, just make sure you know which is which before setting out for a show. Where: Grand Théâtre, Rond-Point Schuman, Luxembourg-Limpertsberg, www.theatres.lu Théâtre National de Luxembourg, 194 route de Longwy, Luxembourg-Merl, www.tnl.lu

Shops: Olivier Minaire > BCEE (not the palace): David Laurent (archives)

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FRIDAY 10.10 – 8 P.M.

Diary

Lucilin: Jean Hout Allah-Las and Mudam: Julien Becker

CONCHITA SANS JOHNNY Eurovision winner Conchita Wurst will perform at this year’s Luxembourg Eurovision Gala Night on 25 October, but Ireland’s two-time winner Johnny Logan has had to withdraw from the event. 2009 Norwegian record points winner Alexander Rybak will also perform. Where: Casino 2000, Mondorf-les-Bains Info: galanight.net

OPEN GETS GENIE WISH The BGL BNP Paribas Luxembourg Open (11-18 October) has managed to land world ranked no.7 Eugenie Bouchard as its top attraction. The 20-year old Wimbledon runner up was recently voted the second hottest female tennis player behind Ana Ivanovic. Where: Kockelscheuer tennis club, Luxembourg-Kockelscheuer Info: bglbnpparibas-open.lu

RED CROSS RYKIEL The Red Cross is hosting another of its gala evening fashion show fundraisers on 21 October. Models will show off Sonia Rykiel designs and guests paying €160 for the privilege will be treated to a walking dinner and the presence of Grand Duchess Maria Teresa. Where: Cercle Municipal, Luxembourg-Centre Info: croix-rouge.lu

DESIGN FRIENDS 5TH Design Friends celebrated its 5th anniversary in September. The organisation, created to promote awareness of design, regularly invites top class international designers from fields as diverse as product, sound, food and print design, to talk at its events. Where: Mudam, Luxembourg-Kirchberg Info: designfriends.lu

HEAD TO DUDETOWN… …to hear new United Instruments of Lucilin and the Orchestre de Chambre du Luxembourg play a new piece by Steve Reich called Radio Rewrite, inspired by Radiohead. Grab a drink afterwards in Dudelange’s favourite watering hole, Why Not (ave GD Charlotte). Where: opderschmelz, rue du Centenaire, Dudelange Info: opderschmelz.lu

SATURDAY 11.10 – 9 P.M.

CATCH THE ALLAH-LAS… …at probably the coolest venue in the city, though some Rocas regulars may beg to differ. Exit07 is the place to catch upcoming artists and partake in hipster-watching. LA garage surf band Allah-Las has attitude and killer sounds, and it’s just €13 to get in. Where: Exit07, rue de l’Aciérie, Luxembourg-Hollerich Info: rotondes.lu

SUNDAY 12.10 - FROM 11 A.M.

TAKE AN ART BRUNCH… …in the light and airy café at Mudam designed by Ronan et Erwan Bouroullec. The menu, with a vegan option, includes a selection of local produce. Then take in the last day of the Damage Control: Art and Destruction Since 1950 exhibition Where: Mudam, parc Dräi Eechelen, Luxembourg-Kirchberg Info: mudam.lu October 2014

LIFESTYLE

GETTING INVOLVED

Text by HELEDD PRITCHARD

Photography by SVEN BECKER

Straight challenge A

Luxembourg banker will be swimming from Spain to Morocco this month in a bid to raise money for SOS Children’s Villages. Lucas Carbonaro will attempt to complete the Strait of Gibraltar swim, departing from Tarifa on the Iberian peninsula and making his way along the Mediterranean sea and Atlantic ocean to the north African coast. “I will be accompanied by two boats; one for direction and another to provide me with food and drink. I won’t be allowed to touch the boat at any time otherwise I will be disqualified and so they will throw energy gel tubes to me in the water,” he explained. Whilst swimming at least 20 kilometres in water temperatures of around 15 degrees Celsius alongside ferries, vessels and wildlife, Lucas’ main concern is reaching his fundraising target of €4,000 for his chosen charity. The money will go towards education for the 90 children who live in the SOS Children’s Village of Imzouren, one of the poorest regions of northern Morocco, where 67% of the population is deprived of the most basic necessities and illiteracy can reach as high as 90% amongst women. “The real challenge is not the swim but for these children to be able to study. My challenge will be over in a few hours; theirs will last a lifetime,” he said.

“The money will be going straight to the village to support the children’s education for the next year. I’m also trying to find second hand computers and laptops to donate to them. I chose this charity as they do amazing work and I wanted to attract attention to the charity and be able to support children’s education.” “So far I have only raised 30% of my target. Although I receive many ‘likes’ on Facebook photos related to the swim, people seem to be reluctant to sponsor.” When it comes to fundraising for charity, Lucas proves to be an old hand, being an active member of the Rotary Club Luxembourg, which is continuously raising SUPPORT LUCAS: money for projects such as End Polio Now Taking the challenge ALVARUM.COM/ and Espoir en Tête, a Luxembourg initiative in his stride he said: LUCASCARBONARO to support cerebral research. “People ask how I feel In collaboration with all Rotary clubs in about swimming in a place Luxembourg, a project has also been launched where there are sharks but, to organise fun and active days for disabled in fact, the most deadly species people in the region, with activities such as a in the world is mosquitos!” river cruise along the Moselle and horse riding. Despite the physical and mental endurance, Many of Lucas’ previous fundraising activities his modest attitude and clear determination with the Rotary have involved marathons illustrate that there is just one motivation for but this will be his first swimming attempt. this challenge: to raise awareness and money The Strait of Gibraltar is known as one for a cause that will make a difference. of the toughest swimming challenges that exist To sponsor Lucas and make a donation to the and is one of the busiest straits in the world. children of SOS Children’s Villages in Imzouren, As few as 500 people have ever successfully visit the website listed in the bubble above. completed the challenge. “I had the idea when I was there on holiday FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ROTARY CLUB last year. I thought to myself that if I train, LUXEMBOURG PROJECTS VISIT: it can be done.” rcls.lu

Community noteboo

SKYBALL

THE UNDERDOGS

DIWALI

HALLOWEEN

KICK CANCER INTO TOUCH Winners of the 13th annual touch rugby tournament, which raised €2,000 for cancer support charities. facebook.com/kickcancer.intotouch

INDIAN ASSOCIATION Celebrate the Festival of Lights 4 October at the Tramsschapp with traditional Indian entertainment and authentic cuisine. ial.lu

INTERNATIONS Have a frighteningly fun time with expats 28 October during “The Gloss Horror Show 2014” at Gloss Bar in Kirchberg. internations.org

October 2014

MAKE-A-WISH Help make seriously ill children’s wishes come true by attending this 007-themed gala dinner on 15 November, which includes a three course meal, casino, martini bar, live auction and DJ. Tickets €100 or €900 for table of ten. All proceeds go to the foundation in Luxembourg. At the Hôtel Le Royal, naturally. events@make-a-wish.lu

Underdogs: Luxembourg Touch Halloween party: Jakob Montrasio/Creative Commons

Lucas Carbonaro will attempt to swim 20 kilometres in dangerous, frigid waters to raise funds for impoverished children in northern Morocco. But he still needs donors to help keep the project afloat.

LIFESTYLE

COVER STORY

Text by DUNCAN ROBERTS

Photography by JULIEN BECKER

e r t a e Th e g d e w ith duce its first d to her proposal to pro challenges ree ag da na ské Ma en s thrilled wh about the Actress Larisa Faber wa e piece. Faber and direc tor Rafael Kohn talk nt at first but it is atr we the art he ge ua the ng en -la pty wh English passageway. d’s seminal play It felt em of staging Lucy Kirkwooual location of the iconic Hamilius undergroundrmance collective, alright now in the unus er Serge Tonnar explains the role of the live perfo rrowing, And Maskénada co-foundement in the ground-breaking production. The ha g and forced and talks about his involv y tackles the taboo subject of human sex traffickinerism. sometimes humorous, plaader scale it deals with issues surrounding consum prostitution. But on a bro

atching Larisa Faber temporarily transform herself into the role of Dijana Polancec as she poses for Delano’s photo shoot is a moving experience. In the space of a few seconds and one deep breath, the bright-eyed actress with the infectious smile becomes a vulnerable little girl lost, whose self-deceptive bluster and misplaced hope is fading fast. It is a role that Faber has been yearning to play since seeing the original London production of Lucy Kirkwood’s astonishing It felt empty when the heart went at first but it is alright now at the Arcola Theatre in 2009. “I completely fell in love with the character and the play. The writing is incredibly strong in shaping two characters that I think are the most threedimensional I have ever seen on stage. This sounds over the top, but I was completely transfixed.” Born in Romania and raised in Luxembourg, Faber studied October 2014

drama in London. So the play had resonance with her eastern European roots and her sojourn in the UK capital, a city with which she says she has a “complicated relationship.” She first played Dijana in 2012 at a showcase for young local talent at the Trifolion in Echternach, performing just one scene from the German translation of Kirkwood’s play. But that was enough to further feed Faber’s ambition to stage the entire play in its original English version in Luxembourg. She had been working increasingly for Maskénada, whom she had first contacted when, after returning from her studies in London, her mother had enthused about the group’s site-specific production of Nipple Jesus based on the story by Nick Hornby. Larisa says today that she can’t fully explain her decision to study in London, which became fixed at one stage during her last year at school. But she has never regretted it even though she says

she has a love-hate relationship with the city. “We got to study and perform at the Globe Theatre and spend eight weeks in Moscow. It was a really special course.” UNIQUE LOCATION Back in Luxembourg, she helped put together Maskénada’s Plang B, the 2013 multimedia project that paid homage to the history and people of Bonnevoie. This summer she starred in the German language one-hander Fräulein Else, performed at the Hôtel Le Place d’Armes as part of an Arthur Schnitzler double-bill. So it seemed like a natural choice to ask the company, which specialises in site-specific productions, to stage the play. Maskénada’s then president, Claude Mangen, was quick to give the go-ahead, on the condition that Faber could find a director and a location. The first task was easy. She had met freelance writer and director

Rafael Kohn while working on a project for Plang B; although when they first discussed the play and he read the German translation, he was not entirely convinced (“the language became artificial and the pop culture references didn’t work”). But upon Faber’s insistence, Kohn read the original English version and he was struck by the way Kirkwood had clearly defined her characters. “It isn’t a cliché about human trafficking, it’s a very real story about two people,” he says. Finding a location was not as straight forward. Faber was determined to find an unusual venue. “I can’t picture it in a traditional theatre. From a personal point of view, the themes of the play and the journey the characters go through defy belief. There is such horror and brutality, that it is virtually unstageable. If you put it on a traditional stage with the audience safely tucked away in the dark in their plush seats, it would rob the play of its rawness.”

LIFESTYLE

October 2014

COVER STORY

CONTINUED

"THE WRITING IS INCREDIBLY STRONG IN SHAPING TWO CHARACTERS THAT I THINK ARE THE MOST THREE-DIMENSIONAL I HAVE EVER SEEN ON STAGE." LARISA FABER Kohn wanted a retail space to emphasise the play’s treatment of consumerism as a recurring theme. Dijana is obsessed with shopping for clothes and beauty products--one of the reasons she agrees to travel to London is to live in the land of plenty. But then she becomes a commodity herself, and even recognises her value. “I know exactly how much I am worth. I am worth 1,000 euros because that is how much Babac paid for me. To put in easy language, that is like two-and-a-half iPhones.” When Kohn and Faber learned from its owner that the Asia shop in the Hamilius underground passage, which is due to be demolished, was to be vacated, it seemed like an ideal location. The shop brought back memories for Faber, who used to buy sweets there with her girlfriends when she was younger. “It’s such an iconic place, that everyone knows. And this will be the last big project to take place in the Hamilius before it is torn down.” The space poses some minor logistical problems, but Kohn

is thrilled with the associations the venue adds to the play. “Yes, you used to be able to buy sweets here, but now, with the illusion of theatre, you can buy Dijana or Gloria.” The fact that the Hamilius is still a public space adds frisson to the production. Teenagers hang out in the underground passage, though in fewer numbers than before. Buskers serenade pedestrians traversing the boulevard Royal via the subterranean walkway. And the doorways of its disused shops and cafés have been claimed by a number of Luxembourg’s growing community of homeless people. “I feel a bit guilty that we are in their living room,” says Kohn. They are an invisible community, he explains, because while the statistics record the number of Luxembourger homeless, there are many more foreigners who also sleep rough. GIVING VOICE TO VICTIMS Kohn was impressed by how deeply Kirkwood researched the characters and theme.

Indeed, the play was originally written while Kirkwood was writer-in-residence at Clean Break, a theatre company that works with women whose lives have been affected by the criminal justice system in the UK. “It is believable because there is precision and truth in the play.” That gives the text a strong foundation, which Kohn says makes his job easier. The director also hopes that the audience, many of whom will be foreigners who have moved to Luxembourg in search of a better life, will be able to relate to Dijana’s plight--even though their personal circumstances may be vastly different. That is not to say that cases like those of Dijana or Gloria are unknown in Luxembourg. The Police Grand-Ducale and the Femmes en détresse organisation both have specialist units that tackle forced prostitution. Both institutions, along with the ministry of culture, will be involved in a pre-show debate in November. Faber explains that Maskénada always seeks to create a whole concept around its productions. “Each project is special, and it was important to anchor this show in the reality here in Luxembourg.” So as well as the debates, a special programme booklet will be published detailing the situation in the Grand Duchy, with proceeds going to one project run by Femmes en détresse. “We have this opportunity to give a voice to the victims of human trafficking and forced prostitution, which is a form of consumerism that is hidden,” says Kohn. FIERCE HUMOUR But that doesn’t mean the play is bleak or overtly political. Faber revels in what she calls Kirkwood’s “greatness”. “There is a fierce humour in the play,” she says.

LUXEMBOURG PROBLEM According to a 2008 Trafficking in Persons Report by the US Department of State, “Luxembourg is a destination country for women trafficked transnationally for the purpose of commercial sexual exploitation. During the reporting period, women were trafficked from Bulgaria, Poland, and Ukraine. According to the Luxembourg Red Cross, an increasing number of women from Africa and Latin America are engaged in prostitution in the country, and could be victims of trafficking.” ECPAT CAMPAIGN The report also concluded that the Luxembourg government “demonstrated strong law enforcement efforts to combat trafficking.” However, this year a major cinema and TV campaign in conjunction with ECPAT requesting holiday makers to be vigilant of signs of sexual abuse against children. childprotection.lu LOCAL CASE Only this year the Luxembourg courts dealt with a case of enforced prostitution involving a couple, aged 49 and 46, who were prosecuted for holding a 50-year old woman against her will, forcing her into prostitution and causing bodily harm. They were sentenced to three and two years in prison and fined €10,000 and €5,000. AWARD WINNING FILM 2007 Luxembourg Film Prize winner Your Name Is Justine (Masz na imię Justine), by Franco de Pena, tells a similar story to that in Kirkwood’s play. A Polish co-production, the film focuses on chirpy teenager Mariola, whose “boyfriend” convinces her to go on a road trip through Europe only to sell her to a gang that holds her captive and eventually forces her into prostitution. filmprais.blogspot.com FEMMES EN DÉTRESSE Femmes en détresse was founded in 1979 to set up a safe house for women, and their children, who were the victims of domestic violence. The association has an accord with the ministry of equal opportunities and now has 90 employees. It is also a focal point of WAVE (Women against violence Europe) and a national expert for the Observatory on Violence against Women run by the European Women’s Lobby. fed.lu October 2014

LIFESTYLE

COVER STORY

CONTINUED

MORE THEATRE NEWS ON PAGES 60 & 62

“It doesn’t rub our face in the subject, it is still light-hearted despite the horror of the subject,” Kohn adds. Casting the part of Gloria was another challenge--though in an entirely positive aspect. Kohn and Faber spent an hour-long working session with several actresses before choosing London-based actress Jacqueline Acheampong. “I wish I could have cast all the actresses who auditioned,” says Kohn. “I had a very strong impression of Jacqueline, who was the first to audition. Rafael and I looked at each other after she finished and we were… ’wow, she has a presence!’ But for me, it was a very funny process, because usually I am on the other side of the casting table.” Gloria and Dijana are basically cellmates, and the time they spend together--structured to be the central section of the play--is the high point of Dijana’s story. October 2014

“The characters compliment each other,” says Faber. “But they are unique. No two life stories are the same.” The characters are in fact an amalgam of a number of women Kirkwood interviewed during her research for the play. "IT IS BELIEVABLE BECAUSE THERE IS PRECISION AND TRUTH IN THE PLAY." RAFAEL KOHN

Acheampong is also a singer, so Kohn has an idea to get her to work with Serge Tonnar, who is providing the music and sound design for the production. The current president and co-founder of Maskénada, Tonnar has made a name for himself as an author-composer-performer, and recently enjoyed success with albums of original Luxembourg language songs, many satires on Luxembourg society, with his band Legotrip. He has been working in theatrical sound design since 1996,

when he worked on Maskénada’s Mäcbess, an atmospheric Luxembourg language production of Shakespeare’s Scottish tragedy, performed in the forest at Berdorf. “We are a bit nomadic,” he explains of the company’s policy of taking performance arts to the people. “From the beginning we have tried to choose locations that fit with the production. We were pleased when we received permission to perform in the Hamilius. Because that is often the challenge, to convince people who are not used to staging cultural events that we can use their venue.” IT FELT EMPTY WHEN THE HEART WENT AT FIRST BUT IT IS ALRIGHT NOW Where: former Asia shop, Hamilius underground passage, Luxembourg-Centre When: 22, 24, 29 & 31 October and 1, 5, 6 & 7 November at 8 p.m. 26 October and 9 November at 5 p.m. Tickets: maskenada.lu

PHOTOS LEGENDS A. Relaxed preparation: actress Larisa Faber and director Rafael Kohn in the shell of the former Asia shop in which they will stage Lucy Kirkwood’s seminal play B. A life less ordinary: Dijana’s few precious possessions and the tools of the trade C. Veteran: Serge Tonnar is a co-founder of Maskénada and its current president. He will provide the music and sound design for the new production

14.10.–25.11.2014

03.10.–20.11.2010 www.luxembourgfestival.lu

Les Théâtres de la Ville de Luxembourg & Philharmonie www.luxembourgfestival.lu

Emmanuelle Béart – New York Philharmonic – Alan Gilbert – Ballet Preljocaj & Théâtre du Bolchoï – Paco de Lucía – Michael Symphonieorchester & Chor des Bayerischen Rundfunks – Mariss Jansons – «Badke» / Clark Company – M. London Symphony Orchestra – SirduColin Les ballets C de la B & A. Qattan Foundation – Orchestre Philharmonique Luxembourg – Nikolaj – Maximilian Hornung – Chicago Orchestra–– Daniel Riccardo Muti – DavisZnaider – «Les Justes» / Camus – Symphony Pierre Boulez «Carmen» / Dada Masilo / The Dance Factory – «War and Pieces» / Sascha Goetzel / Kehlmann – Koopman Gewandhausorchester Leipzig Cecilia Bartoli – Daniel Hope – Ton – «Rameau, maître à danser» / Les – Arts Florissants / William ChristieBerlanger – Il Turco in Italia de Gioachino Rossini– Philharmonic Orchestra Françoise – Ian Bostridge – Oslo Abbas Kiarostami –– Vasily Petrenko – Tine Thing Helseth – Grigory Sokolov – Joshua Weilerstein – Hilary Hahn – SonnyFonseca Rollins – «Cosi fan tutte» / Mozart Esperanza Spalding Roberto & Band – «L’Inhumaine» / David Venitucci /–Guillaume Latil / Aidje Tafial – – BalletTemporum» Biarritz /–Anne Thomas Quasthoff Nordey – Philippe «Vortex Teresa de Keersmaeker–& Stanislas Ictus– «Les méfaits du tabac» – Herbie Hancock & Band – Wiener Symphoniker – Philippe Jordan – Khatia Buniatishvili Herreweghe – Andreas Spering – Angelika Kirchschlager – «Otello» / Verdi – Ben Heppner …

LIFESTYLE

INTERVIEW

Text by DUNCAN ROBERTS

Photography by STEVE EASTWOOD

h t u o y e v i G a chance

hure and theatre to Englis bringing classics of literatd, his BGT productions are en be s ha on gst Kin ny To close to 10 years . Indee any’s language audiences for e of the autumn cultural calendar. The comp . ine tur sh fix t to en ce an an rm ch a pe s a tor w ac no Women gives young new adaptation of Lit tle

s a drama teacher and director who has worked with young people in previous productions, Tony Kingston is more keenly aware than most of the wealth of young acting ability in Luxembourg. But apart from New World Theatre Club’s youth programme, which is so successful it has a waiting list, as well as a few regular school productions, there is not much outlet for young English-speaking actors to perform on stage, he says. “I have come across so many good young actors, especially girls, that it was occurring to me more and more that I could use them if we could find a good show, one that is not just for kids.” It was Kingston’s wife, June Lowery, who first suggested Louisa M. Alcott’s Little Women. The director admits he was sceptical at first, finding the book on first reading to be a “very dated and quite preachy, which is not untypical of 19th century children’s literature.” But, despite the lack of a wider narrative, Kingston was attracted to the characters--“they leap off the page”--and he enjoyed the second of Alcott’s books about the March sisters, Good Wives, when the action becomes more adult and expansive. “She does that very well, in the sense that the style of writing adapts to the age of the characters.” Lowery adapted the book for the stage, as she had done with Jane Eyre in 2010, and a casting call brought a huge response. “At various points over the casting weekend the perfect Jo turned up, then the perfect Beth…” The company soon found its cast of eight actresses, as always very international, to play the sisters at different ages. Many of the aspiring actresses said that Little Women was one of their favourite books--confirmation of its modern appeal that Kingston hopes will attract a wide audience to the nine performances. “We want to raise awareness of theatre among young TONY KINGSTON: people, to tap energy as well TAPPING INTO YOUTH as talent.” ENERGY When and where: 2 to 5 October, Kulturhaus Mersch; 25 to 29 November, Abbaye de Neumünster Luxembourg. Info: www.the-bgt.lu October 2014

théâtres de lA VIlle de luxemBourg

the valley of astoNishmeNt peter brook & marie-hélèNe estieNNe wIth kAthryn hunter, mArcello mAgnI, JAred mcneIll

h lis ch g N N iN e fre es l th w i rt i t su

graNd théâtre 1, rond- PoInt schumAn i l-2525 luxemBourg Adults 20€ / students 8€ InformAtIon: www.lestheAtres.lu BookIng www.luxemBourgtIcket.lu tel. +352 /47 08 95-1

25, 26 & 27 November 2014 at 8 pm grAnd théâtre

LIFESTYLE

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Text by DUNCAN ROBERTS

Photography by STEVE EASTWOOD

A powerful piece

ly satire Oh What A Love es l be staging the anti-war ng wil alle b ch Clu the tre t ea ou Th ab ks rld tal ser New Wo atre. mber. Direc tor Julie Fra War! in Mersch in Nove the resonance it has as a powerful piece of the d an y pla the g gin of sta

TICKETS & INFO: NWTC.LU

Did you know?

50 YEAR RULE A mainstay of the 1960s theatre, Oh What A Lovely War! was devised by Joan Littlewood in 1963, which was when the first government documents pertaining to WWI were released under the UK’s 50 year rule. The text is composed of authentic reports, soldiers’ letters and other documents, which give it real resonance. POPULAR SONGS The show employs popular songs from the 1914-18 era, complete with new lyrics. As well as the title number, the songs include ‘It’s a Long Way To Tipperary’, ‘Pack Up Your Troubles in Your Old KitBag’ and ‘Keep The Home Fires Burning’. Robin Alder and Liz Turner are in charge of the music for the NWTC production.

ulie Fraser admits she was quite nervous before holding the auditions for NWTC’s forthcoming production of Oh What A Lovely War! She needn’t have been: some 70 people requested an audition, Julie and her team saw 50 of them and ended up with a cast of 29. “That is slightly more than I thought we needed, but I am happy because it allows us to include youth theatre actors [there are five youngsters in the show]. I really wanted to have the young lads, it is important.” The age range--“from 14 to John Overstall,” as Fraser puts it--gives the ensemble a real dynamic and is beneficial to both the kids and adults. October 2014

Fraser first came across the play at the theatre summer school run by NWTC. “It was just one scene of a play I had never heard of, but it had a profound affect; it was so moving.” She was inspired to read the play and when David Mittal, who became the show’s producer, suggested that 2014 would be a good time to finally stage it, the NWTC committee agreed. One of the biggest challenges was getting costumes for the 120 characters in the play, especially as every amateur dramatic society in the UK seemed to be performing the play in this centenary year. But head of costume Christine Probst and experienced seamstress

Hilary Brown and their team proved to be very enthusiastic and suitably creative and adaptable. “I’m very lucky. All the teams involved have been wonderful.” Fraser admits she was a little apprehensive about performing the play--and she does see it as a play with music, rather than a musical--in Luxembourg, because some of the songs are very British. “But really the story for me isn’t British at all, and I really hope that comes across. It is a powerful piece, there is huge detail in every single line because they were actually said, and that really brings it alive. It is a very exciting thing to work with.”

FILM Richard Attenborough, who died in August this year, directed a 1969 film based on the play. The stellar cast included Laurence Olivier, John Gielgud, Michael Redgrave, Maggie Smith, Vanessa Redgrave and Susannah York. BARBARA WINDSOR The actress famous for her Carry On roles was nominated for a Tony award as best actress in a musical when she joined the original Broadway cast in 1965. Victor Spinetti won the best actor in a musical award.

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LIFESTYLE

INTERIOR DESIGN

Text by WENDY WINN

Photography by GAËL LESURE

Make your home a great place to hibernate ng er days, there’s somethi oler weather and short dils bloom , we’ll all be co for is ast ec for the ffo When t. From now until the da home else we can safely predice indoors. It’s the perfect time to make your tim re mo lot a g spendin a cosy sanctuary.

October 2014

"BEN" AND "PEPPER" AT BEN&PEPPER

ust as in March we’re out looking at flowers, so in October we’re eying fireplaces and fleece. And as the chill sets in, the government wants everyone to have a roof over their heads, and traditionally organises a week to disperse all sorts of housing-related info. National Housing Week is part of another tradition--the autumn trade fair at LuxExpo, now called the Home & Living Expo. The event that helps people transform their homes has itself been transformed to better showcase local skilled craftsmen and services. The expo’s themes are construction, renovation, furniture, interior design, technical equipment and housing--everything from the roof to the mailbox--so it’s a great place to make contacts and get inspiration. Another place you can do that is at the markets organised by Lët’z Go Local, the “community for local products, designs and services.” Their Autumn Market is on 4-5 October, and it’s a far cry from second-hand stalls. Organisers Karolina Szatna and Linda Bos come from art and design backgrounds, and you can tell. “It’s important to support local people, the local economy and the environment. And it’s more than just business, it’s about knowing the producers and designers, knowing their stories,” Szatna says. If you miss the market, find participants on the Lët’z Go Local website. You could see some of their works too, at Szatna’s other main concern: she’s the “Pepper” of the Ben&Pepper boutique, which she co-owns with Benoît Schmit. He states: “We reject the kind of consumerism where TV tells you to go buy everything cheap and new. We upcycle. We take something and find a new purpose for it, or restore it to its original glory. It’s part of our ethos and it’s our lifestyle, not a fashion.” The funky, cosy boutique has wallpapers, curtains, original furniture and decorative items, all full of character and charm. And although it sounds impossible that

it could have either, one Lët’z Go Local participant proves that concrete can be versatile--even warm. StayConcrete has won design awards and “really integrates form and function,” Szatna says. A look at their website will surprise you, unless you already knew that sleek, elegant furniture could be made out of concrete. Its polar opposite is fabric: but the full range of goods are found locally. D’Polster Fabrik specialises in upholstery, but doesn’t just work with valuable heirlooms; they can revamp an antique loveseat, yet can also work on a Ikea chair or create something new. Finger through their fabrics and dream of the possibilities. And if we’re talking home interiors and local companies, we’ve got to mention Tapis Hertz. Who doesn’t gawk at their windows on the corner of the Grand-Rue? The family-run business has been offering carpets, curtains, bath and bed linens and decorative items for more than 60 years and now has a second location in Bertrange. "WHEN YOU CONTINUE YOUR GREAT-GRANDFATHER’S WORK, YOU WORK IN A DIFFERENT SPIRIT" TOINY REDING

Another business with history is Capesius & Reding, founded in 1907. Stepping into the gorgeous old home will make you believe in Feng Shui; you’ll feel amazing and decide you could even live there. Owner Toiny Reding and her team will help you to feel the same way chez vous. “We’ve been here for over 100 years, and when you continue your great-grandfather’s work, you work in a different spirit. We’re not just out for sales, we give advice, we have our own workshop, and we have faithful customers,” she says. As “Pepper” tells Delano, it’s not just about business. Knowing that real love and care went into the things you bring into your home can’t help but make it even cosier during the hibernation season ahead.

ORIGINAL DECORATING LËT’Z GO LOCAL What: Autumn Market When: 4-5 October Where: CarréRotondes, Luxembourg-Hollerich Info: letzgolocal.lu HOME & LIVING EXPO When: Saturday 11 - Sunday 19 October 2014 Entry: Adults €5, under-18 free Where: LuxExpo, Luxembourg-Kirchberg Info: +352 43 99-1 BEN&PEPPER Where: 21 avenue de la Liberté, Luxembourg-Gare Info: +352 26 19 61 94 benandpepper.com CAPESIUS & REDING Where: 10 rue d’Itzig, Hesperange Info: +352 368 368-1 capesius-reding.lu D’POLSTER FABRIK Where: 3 Millewee, Manternach Info: +352 71 07 06 polsterei.lu STAY CONCRETE-LUXEMBOURG Where: Rue des Chaux, Contern Info: +352 35 88 11-277 stayconcrete.com TAPIS HERTZ Where: 44 Grand-Rue, Luxembourg-Centre 259 rue de Luxembourg, Helfent-Bertrange Info: tapishertz.lu

October 2014

LIFESTYLE

FOOD & DRINKS

Text by DUNCAN ROBERTS

Savour local flavours T

Fresh on the market

BAKED IN LUXEMBOURG: CATHYGOEDERT.LU

DELHAIZE LOCAL BEEF Supermarket chain Delhaize has formed a partnership with the Mullerthal Angus beef supplier. Meat from the supplier carries the Naturschutz Fleesch nature reserve label. Groceries: Delhaize supermarkets (16 stores in Luxembourg) Info: delhaize.lu October 2014

he opening of Luxembourg’s first Dunkin’ Donuts over the summer was greeted with almost religious fervour on social media. The same happened when Burger King opened on the German border a few years ago. Some expats even travel to Trier expressly to get their fix of KFC. Now, the argument goes, all that’s missing in Luxembourg is Starbucks in order to make life complete. It is an argument that speaks volumes about the McDonaldization of our dietary habits. Because, and here’s the rub, Luxembourg has a number of great cafés, patiseries and diners that can serve anything the aforementioned global chains can cobble together. This is epitomised by the arrival in the city centre of Cathy Goedert, who has launched

OSCAR’S DINER After 10 years, Q42 on rue de Strasbourg is set to become Oscar’s Diner. The front bar will be converted into a dining area. Pool and darts area will remain, but the bar will now have DJs and live music at the weekends. Nightlife-dining-games: 42 rue de Strasbourg, Luxembourg-Gare Info: Oscar’s Diner on Facebook

UPMARKET CANTINE Le Châtelet Hotel’s new restaurant La Cantine offers diners a seasonal menu of reworked classic dishes and exotic produce such as Wagyu Guma beef, as well as a reasonably priced lunch menu. Dining: 2 bd de la Pétrusse, Luxembourg-Gare Info: chatelet.lu

a sumptuous patisserie and sandwich outlet on rue Chimay in which she uses local produce. Further down the same street, Charles Sandwich Restaurant comes up with exciting and original combinations that show up themed specials like the McFarmer for the stale lowest common denominator fare they are. Konrad café on rue du Nord serves a flat white that had visiting author Piers Alexander frothing with delight and its carrot cake is, to use a wellworn expression, “to die for.” Coffee roasting specialist Knopes has just opened its café and shop in the Am Garage concept store on route d’Esch. And then there is Cathy’s Cupcakery, which has also established a loyal following despite its rue de Strasbourg location. So next time you clamour for that familiar taste from a global chain served in uniform surroundings, step outside your comfort zone and try something truly local.

EXPLORATOR GUIDE The brand new edition of Explorator is published on 17 October. Luxembourg’s best-known restaurant, food, drink and nightlife guide celebrates its 20th anniversary with a revamp. Now more compact and in pocket format, it showcases only the top 250 recommended restaurants. Guide book: available at newsagents, bookstores and from maisonmoderne.lu. explorator.lu

Cathy Goedert: Julien Becker Oscar’s: Jessica Theis Explorator: Jan Hanrion

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LIFESTYLE

ON STAGE

Text by DUNCAN ROBERTS

14 shows you must see

MORE EVENTS: DELANO.LU

LONDON GRAMMAR Hyped hipsters With a minimalist sound topped by the impressive vocals of Hannah Reid, London Grammar was first hyped as a cross between Florence and the Machine and The xx. They have divided critical opinion, but the trio is hugely successful and reviews of the band’s live shows have drawn comparisons with Portishead and even Radiohead, which can be no bad thing. Where: Rockhal, Esch-Belval When: 21 October Tickets: atelier.lu October 2014

AGNES OBEL Sculptured melancholy The increasingly popular Danish singer-songwriter returns for a third show at the Rockhal, this time moving up to the main hall. Obel’s delicately haunting music has won critical acclaim--Caroline Sullivan in The Guardian adores her Avantime album for its “exquisite arrangements: sculpting strings and piano into beautifully melancholy ripples.” Where: Rockhal, Esch-Belval When: 19 October Tickets: rockhal.lu

LUCIUS Baroque pop If critic Tshepo Mokoena’s description of Lucius’s music as “60s girl group-inspired songs doused in a tonic of baroque pop and saccharine folk” appeals, then this first Luxembourg show is a chance to see lookalike singers Jess Wolfe and Holly Laessig in full flow. The band is promoting debut album Wildewoman, which has received mixed reviews. Where: den Atelier, Luxembourg-Gare When: 29 October Tickets: atelier.lu

LAMB Smoky trip-hop Manchester’s finest trip-hop duo returns to den Atelier for a fourth show. Andy Barlow and vocalist Lou Rhodes tour with latest album, Backspace Unwind, their sixth since acclaimed 1996 debut, Lamb. Dismissed by some critics as an “infuriatingly middle class Portishead”, nevertheless Lamb does play with some dynamic beats and Rhodes’ smoky vocals can be a treat. Where: den Atelier, Luxembourg-Gare When: 11 November Tickets: atelier.lu

LISA STANSFIELD Cool soul The cool Rochdale songstress first came to attention on Coldcut’s ‘People Hold On’ in 1989. She followed that with mainstream hits ‘All Around The World’ and ‘This Is The Right Time’. Refusing to join 80s nostalgia tours with the likes of Rick Astley, she now has a new album Seven, which once again reveals her stunningly soulful voice. Where: Casino 2000, Mondorf-les-Bains When: 26 October Tickets: atelier.lu

BOB MOULD Influential icon A founder member of the groundbreaking Hüsker Dü--who, in the words of author Michael Azerrad were able to “convince the underground that melody and punk rock weren’t antithetical”-Bob Mould went on to form the short-lived, but equally brilliant, Sugar and also released several solo albums, the latest of which is the acclaimed Beauty & Ruin. Where: Rockhal, Esch-Belval When: 11 November Tickets: rockhal.lu

KLAXONS Muted rave Co-fronted by Keira Knightley’s husband, James Righton, Klaxons come to Luxembourg in support of third album Love Frequency. Oft derided by critics, especially for being at the forefront of the new rave scene some seven years ago, Klaxons have nonetheless managed to rope in the likes of Chemical Brother Tom Rowlands and James Murphy for the new album. Where: den Atelier, Luxembourg-Gare When: 14 November Tickets: atelier.lu

Agnes Obel: Frank Eidel Lamb: Ben Ealovega Thurston Moore: Ari Marcopoulos

s on over vides a preview of what’ Each month Delano pro female vocalists seem to dominate the coming weeks. CoolObel to Lisa Stansfield via Dianne Reeves, the autumn, from Agnes ah Reid and Lamb’s Lou Rhodes. London Grammar’s Hann

IAN BOSTRIDGE Plangent Schubert The British tenor, who was an artist in residence at the Philharmonie in 2011, is joined by pianist Thomas Adès to perform Franz Schubert’s influential Winterreise song cycle. Like Die schöne Müllerin, Schubert based this song cycle on poems by Wilhelm Müller. Bostridge’s performance has been described as “gorgeous, plangent, beyond sentimentality.” Where: Philharmonie, Luxembourg-Kirchberg When: 18 October Tickets: philharmonie.lu

TOUCH OF NOIR Dark jazz This year’s festival features jazz gigs by uncompromising British sax player and MC Soweto Kinch (photo), brilliant trumpeter Roy Hargrove, and the return of The James Taylor Quartet. The festival also branches out into classical music with the premier of a new Catherine Kontz production, Like a Moth to the Light, featuring pianist Cathy Krier playing music by Bach, Ligeti and Rameau. Where: opderschmelz, Dudelange When: 17 to 23 October Tickets: opderschmelz.lu

GRIGORY SOKOLOV Convincing Chopin Regarded as one of the greatest living pianists, Grigory Sokolov plays a programme of works by Frédéric Chopin as part of the Luxembourg Festival. Sokolov’s interpretations have variously been described as “fully convincing in its roiling emotions and the feeling of frustration… and agitation” as well as having “a real sense of sadness and rejection.” Where: Philharmonie, Luxembourg-Kirchberg When: 9 November Tickets: philharmonie.lu

DIANNE REEVES Sublime voice The Echternach & Clearstream International Jazz Days has invited the jazz chanteuse to perform at the Philharmonie. Reeves is the only to have won this Grammy three consecutive Best Jazz Vocal Album Grammys (she has four in total). Latest album Beautiful Life showcases her sublime voice and fuses R&B, Latin and pop within the framework of contemporary jazz. Where: Philharmonie, Luxembourg-Kirchberg When: 23 October Tickets: jazz.echternachfestival.lu

DADA MASILO Sassy Carmen The unconventional and prodigious South African choreographer and dancer employs 14 dancers for her take on Carmen. The show has been described as “sassy, sexy and confident” as Masilo strips Flamenco back to its African origins with the music of Rodion Shchedrin’s Carmen Suit. Artsblog wrote “There may never have been a bolder, more erotic Carmen.” Where: Grand Théâtre, Luxembourg-Limpertsberg When: 22 & 23 October Tickets: theatres.lu

KONRAD COMEDY CLUB Sparkling stand-up South African Isle of Man resident Pierre Novellie, a shooting star of the UK stand-up circuit, is the next act at Konrad Comedy Club in October. November’s act is awardwinning Zoe Lyons (photo), who has appeared on Mock The Week and wowed audiences with her recent Edinburgh show described by one critic as “a joyous show of sparkling stand-up.” Where: Konrad Café & Bar, Luxembourg-Centre When: 15 & 16 October (Novellie), 19 & 20 November (Lyons) Tickets: comedy.lu

THURSTON MOORE Radiate thrash The Sonic Youth icon follows up 2010’s beautiful Demolished Thoughts album with fourth solo album The Best Day. Featuring Sonic Youth drummer Steve Shelley, My Bloody Valentine’s Debbie Googe and Nøught guitarist James Sedwards, the album promises to “radiate with… signature thrashing electric guitars as well as blissful 12-string acoustic ballads.” Where: Rockhal, Esch-Belval When: 5 November Tickets: rockhal.lu October 2014

LIFESTYLE

QUICK GUIDE

Text by DUNCAN ROBERTS

A festival of riches

al and eastern Europe tival of films from centr ch more than just fes st Ea Cin al nu an e Th ble beast of an event. Mu has grown into a verita incorporates concerts, an exhibition and even w film screenings , it no gastronomy events.

CINEAST Now in its seventh year, CinEast is the second most important film festival in the Grand Duchy after March’s Discovery Zone. This year’s programme includes 50 feature films and 40 short films, as well as documentaries and children’s’ films (see page 72), from 18 countries. This year’s special focus is, rather pertinently, on Ukraine and the programme also features films from Moldova, Macedonia, Kosovo, and Montenegro. Unlike Discovery Zone, CinEast is run almost exclusively by volunteers and the festival is not just limited to the capital city but takes in venues across the country. “The programme is again richer than it was last year and the festival will most probably be again the largest cultural event in October. Last year 9,000 people came to our screenings and events and we would like to reach 10,000 this year,” says the festival’s artistic director Hynek Dedecius. Here we list selected highlights. Info: cineast.lu

October 2014

COMPETITION An international jury presided by Ukrainian director Sergei Loznitsa (whose films My Joy and In The Fog were both in competition for the Palme d’Or at Cannes) will award the festival’s main prize from a selection of the best new films.

AUDIENCE PRIZE Audiences at screenings of the main films as well as at the short film marathons will be invited to cast their vote, via a simple ticket marked with icons of faces ranging from very sad to very happy.

PHOTO EXHIBIT An exhibition of work by photographers from Luxembourg, Poland, Czech Republic, Romania, Italy and the Netherlands will be on show at the Abbaye de Neumünster. Titled Si loin… si près, the show will mark 25 years of the fall of the Berlin Wall and examine questions such as “are there still two Europes?”.

SHORT FILMS Four so-called short film marathons will be screened at the festival, on 12, 15, 20 & 22 October. Two sessions will feature fiction films, one will be dedicated to animated shorts and the other to documentaries.

MULTIPLE VENUES The festival is spread out over various venues around the country with screenings at the Cinémathèque, Abbaye de Neumünster and Ciné Utopia in the capital, Ciné Ariston in Esch-surAlzette and the Ancien Cinéma in Vianden. Non-film events also take place at Exit07, Melusina and the Sang&Klang.

CONCERTS Live music plays an important role at the festival, which this year hosts concerts by Romanian gypsy band Fanfara Transilvania and Bulgarian star Milcho Leviev (photo), a live soundtrack performance by Polish rock group Kristen and groups Zapaska, INclusion et Polonia Rocks playing the closing event.

FOOD Food from the region is on the menu at a series of special events including a M(eat) The Balkans night, and a gastronomy evening at the Abbaye featuring typical dishes from the countries involved in the festival.

FUNNY EAST A selection of the best comedies from the countries represented at the festival will be screened in a special programme. Among the highlights is Lithuanian English-language gangster film Redirected with Vinnie Jones.

YOUTH PROGRAMME Programmes for younger audiences include a joint venture with the Cinémathèque called CinEast meets Cinéma Paradiso, a special kids show featuring animated films without any spoken word, and special screenings for school classes.

FESTIVAL PASS A CinEast festival pass for just €20 includes unlimited access to over 90 screenings and 50 different films, discounts on entry to various concert and gastronomy events and a free drink at the closing event. In addition, €1 from the sale of each pass will go directly to a charity project. Available at the cinemas.

MAIDAN Acclaimed director Sergei Loznitsa brings CinEast bang slap up to date with his unflinching documentary Maidan, an anonymous, context-free treatment of the protests in the Kiev square that climaxed earlier this year with the ousting of president Viktor Yanukovych.

FREE FALL Taxidermia director Gyorgy Palfi unveils another of his brilliantly entertaining, yet wilfully perplexing films. Free Fall depicts the mysterious and surreal goings on behind closed doors in a Hungarian apartment block that will leave the viewer asking plenty of questions.

CLASS ENEMY First time director Rok Bicek’s Class Enemy shows a strict new German teacher’s travails at a Slovenian school when one of his students commits suicide and his classmates revolt. Crucially, Bicek steers clear of taking sides and delivers an insightful film.

Photo exhibit: Tamas Dezso Maidan: Atoms & Void Free Fall: KHM film Class Enemy: Triglav film

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LIFESTYLE

KIDS

Text by WENDY WINN

Autumn outings

GO NUTS Steep cobblestone hills make it a little tricky for prams, but they also make for great views and a lively atmosphere. Sample everything made with nuts, from cake and cheese to liqueurs, outside the castle on 12 October. Where: Vianden Info: vianden-info.lu October 2014

BACK TO OUR ROOTS ON HALLOWEEN From 18-30 October you can learn to carve lanterns out of beetroots (among other workshops) during Trauliichtwochen, and there’s a lantern parade on 25 October. Where: Munshausen Info: destination-clervaux.lu

GET READY TO STRUT YOUR STUFF The colourful Children’s Parade that winds through the capital every two years doesn’t take place until June, but it’s time now to get your groups ready with costumes, themes and more. Info: capel@vdl.lu

TINY FILMS FOR TINY KIDS Kids ages two and up will enjoy this selection of cartoons with no spoken language. The 90-minute screening on 18 October is free of charge, and there’s cake! Where: Abbaye de Neumünster Info: cineast.lu WOODEN MISS IT At the Weekend of Wood (19 October), see tree cutting, work horses, puppet shows, fishing with wooden poles, wood sculpting, wooden games, forest tours and more. There are dad and kids woodworking workshops too! Where: Beckerich mill Info: dmillen.lu FROM OLD TIN TO HIGH TECH Discover the over 5,000 items on display, from tin figures and trains to dolls and dollhouses, and rediscover your childhood too! The kids will love it as well. Where: Trier Toy Museum Info: spielzeugmuseum-trier.de

Top Kids: Brain&More Nut festival: ONT Halloween: ONT Children’s Parade: CAPEL

TOP MARKS FOR TOP KIDS It’s close to home, free and fun, so mark 8-9 November on your agenda. The Top Kids salon has games, face-painting, clowns, a bouncy castle, a video game exchange, Segway demonstrations, photo shoots and fashion shows… all for kids and teens. There are four different themes: the Top Éducation area has computer games, books, daycare services and many museums offering children’s activities. At Top Vacances you can learn about daytrips, tours, camps and more. Top Détente is all about fun, inside and outside, with games, sports and extracurricular activities. And prepare to break those piggybanks at Top Tendances--you’ll be tempted by high tech gadgets, practical and pretty furniture, fashionable clothes and accessories. Where: LuxExpo Info: topkids.lu

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RAMAYANA

The Thai gastronomic rendezvous

from 6 to 26 October 2014 This autumn the RAMAYANA festival transport to you the enchanting Thailand during 3 weeks. Our 2 restaurants Thailand in Belair and Thai Celadon in the City Center created a special menu to bring you the amazing diversity of Thai cuisine. The festival is the MUST GO event for anyone who enjoy ‘great food’. Make your reservation today for a unique culinary experience.

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www.thai.lu 25.09.14 10:08

LIFESTYLE

Text by AARON GRUNWALD

Photography by MIKE ZENARI

Scandinavian shopping sense r three favourite Lise Lindqvist shares he bourg. xem Lu shopping spots in Lise Lindqvist, a Dane who’s lived in the Grand Duchy since 2005, owns Secondhand4sale, which sells new and “recycled” designer clothing and accessories at her boutique in Bereldange and to clients across Europe, the US and Canada at secondhand4sale. com. She also is active in Dress for Success (dressforsuccess.org), a group that helps jobseeking women in need of a professional wardrobe.

MY FAVOURITES DANISH DELI For Danish brands, Lise heads to the Danish Deli right in the heart of the capital’s prime shopping area. She likes the “homemade bread and cakes, liquorice from a special supplier, Danish brews--little ones, not the big ones that you know--jams and other produce. When we crave our Danish black bread then we go there.” Plus there’s a restaurant. “You have the typical Scandinavian atmosphere with light furniture and décor,” says Lise. “But it’s also for the international community--it’s not only Danes meeting Danes--which we find nice.” The Deli’s owners, Thomas and Jane Holst Kristensen, organise tastings of wine and other products, and think of fun ways to mark special events. For instance: Lise recounts that during the recent World Cup the Danish Deli served Brazilian burgers. What: Danish, food, events Where: 3 rue Beck, Luxembourg-Centre Info: www.danishdeli.lu October 2014

RETROVOLVER The Di Pinto sisters have “a fun little shop” featuring retro fashion goods, which is hidden down a passageway near the Théâtre des Capucins. “Most of it is new but [Carmen] also has stuff made from recycled materials [such as] buttons, bags and other items.” Lise adds that Retrovolver carries local Luxembourg designers but many of the new items are imported from the UK. “It just looks old; it’s retro design!” Lise particularly enjoys checking out the “button up boots and dresses in 50s and 60s style.” The shop also holds private workshops for two or more people, where participants can learn to transform their own items. What: retro, fashion, workshops Where: 11c place du Théâtre, Luxembourg-Centre Info: www.retrovolver.com

DANIA PRESENTS Fellow Danes run this home design shop, which carries cookery and decoration items from all the Nordic territories. “They have a very international clientele” searching for “the minimalist designers” and the items with the “light colours and natural materials” that the region is famous for. Lots of interior decorators come when they need to find contemporary touches for their clients. “It’s a nice place to find a gift when going to someone’s house and you want to bring something Scandinavian.” When Lise visits Luxembourgers, she often picks up a gift here and then she can tell her hosts “a little bit about what’s special about our stuff.” What: Scandinavian, kitchens, décor Where: 3 rue Astrid, Luxembourg-Belair Info: www.dania.lu

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