THE HOLIDAY ISSUE
FA S H ION M A N N USCRI PT
NEW YORK LOS ANGELES MIAMI THE HAMPTONS
ALCHEMY
The Latest Bridal Collection by Moira Hughes
MONZA
Eyewear Inspired by Racing
PLUS
ChoCheng Brings Sustainable Haute Coutre to Paris Fashion Week
CAROLINE VAZZANA M AK ING IT IN M ANHAT TAN
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November/December 2023
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STEP INTO SPRING Look ahead to bright days and sunny styles as you source Spring/Summer ’24 and more at Atlanta Apparel this October. See full collections for the next season as well as top brands for Resort, Accessories, and Shoes. Don’t miss the one market where you can find everything you need in one place, with affordable hotels and plenty of award-winning dining and entertainment options nearby, trend presentations to inspire you, and fun activations to make your trip memorable.
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PRESIDENT/CEO Jeff Mann EDITORIAL Editor Laurie Melchionne
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COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Julia Feigus (@juliafeiguscreative) CONTRIBUTORS Ronald S. Friedman Frank DeLucia R. Couri Hay Dora Lau Clare Nerney Joseph Pastrana Anne Marie Soto Debra Hazel Michele Gerber Klein Donna Johnson-Klonsky Laurie Melchionne Krystal Peguero
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ONE MANN’S OPINION The November/December issue marks the final issue of 2023. Here at Mann Publications, each year comes with new developments and improvements month by month, but 2023 will always stand out to me as one of change and excitement. Paris Fashion Week has some major coverage in this issue, including its debut of Zimmermann’s Spring 2024 collection as well as a reminder about the Fashion Institute of Technology’s Save the Date for its celebration of Stephen Burrows on the 50th Anniversary of “the Battle of Versailles.” This historic 1973 fashion show pitted Halston and Stephen Burrows against competitors Yves Saint Laurent and Hubert de Givenchy in a runway showdown, which catapulted the then-lesser-known names to global fame. Turning points in fashion history are just the kind of stories that Fashion Mannuscript embraces, and we can’t wait to share more with you in 2024. Caroline Vazzana is this month’s cover star and is just the right person to wrap up an incredible year of fashion events, collections and ever-evolving trends. Vazzana is an online fashion influencer who uses her experiences in the New York fashion scene and beyond to inform audiences on how to make it in the industry. Her podcast, “Making it in Manhattan,” has a fivestar rating on Apple Podcasts, and continues to share the kinds of fashion stories, events and advice that Fashion Mannuscript delivers all year long. We’ll be celebrating this partnership with a cover party at Cucina 8 ½, one of my favorite Italian restaurants in the city. Stay tuned for more! While 2023 was one of nonstop activity for us, it also came with global strife that I would be remiss not to acknowledge. As I write, the events in the Middle East are still unfolding. I was horrified by the unconscionable terrorist attack against Israel in October, and pray for the innocent suffering on all sides. On that note, I wish everyone a happy and tranquil holiday season. May we have peace in 2024, and we’ll see you again in January.
“Peace, if it ever exists, will not be based on fear of war but on the love of peace.” -Herman Wouk
If there’s one thing that paints a clear picture about the fashion industry, it’s Paris Fashion Week. While recent issues have been chock full of different themed weeks, such as New York Bridal Week and New York Fashion Week, it all comes together in Paris. This issue saw plenty of coverage in the City of Lights, and marks a full-circle wrap-up on what brands and trends, emerging and seasoned, have made strides in the 2023 fashion scene. From Zimmermann’s Spring 2024 show to ChoCheng’s long-awaited Paris debut, this issue has all you need to know on the state of haute couture. Another thing this issue discovered is the seamless way the world of fashion blends with that of charity. Daniella Ortiz, a luxury Argentinian handbag brand based in West Palm Beach, crafts high-end leather “companions” while contributing a major chunk of its activity to philanthropic organizations around the country. CaringKind, a New York provider of Alzheimer’s caregiving, has integrated its fundraising and awareness events in fashion shows around the city. Overall, this issue highlights the way that the industry is more than just glitz, glam and runways. It’s full of people who care about their communities, and use their fashion influence to give back. In addition to our cover story on Caroline Vazzana, fashionista, podcaster and Manhattan influencer extraordinaire, this issue takes you on a tour of the latest brands, products and stories to get your holiday shopping list ready. It may be November, but these product listings and brand features come just in time for the upcoming shopping season. Be sure to check out our Holiday Picks and Highlights near the end of this issue. Happy Holidays from all of us here at Fashion Mannuscript! Until next year! -Laurie Melchionne
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November/December 2023
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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023
46 ON THE COVER
FASHION FAVORITES
COVER FEATURE
HOW TO MAKE IT IN MANHATTAN WITH CAROLINE VAZZANA
12
Natura Debuts at the Zimmermann Spring 2024 Paris Fashion Week Runway
14
Messika High Jewelry Hits Fashion Week
16
New Orleans Fashion Week Recap
Photo courtesy of Romina Introini (@romilux)
FASHION FABULOUS 5
One Mann’s Opinion
6
Editor’s Letter
22
411 Executive Changes
Photo courtesy of Moira Hughes
THE DEPART MENTS 30 Finance
56 Techwear
60 The Columns
75 Trade Show Connections
84 Social Soiree
90
Legend: Fragrancing the Stetson Man
94
Last Look CaringKind Brings Charity & Community to Fashion By Laurie Melchionne
FASHION FORWARD 36
The World of Daniella Ortiz
38
Alchemy by Moira Hughes
40
Snaps Clothing Co.
42
Fashion at Home: Kohler & Ann Sacks Partner
44
Monza Eyewear’s RacingInspired Collection
50
Francesca Miranda Crafts Columbian Fall Bridal Couture
52
ChoCheng & Sustainable Haute Couture
Photo courtesy of ChoCheng
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November/December 2023
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FASHION FAVORITES
NATUR A
DEBUTS ON THE ZIMMERMANN SPRING 2024 PARIS FASHION WEEK RUNWAY Zimmermann’s Spring 2024 collection, Natura, debuted on the runway during Paris Fashion Week 2023. With a blend of earthy and spring tones, layers and floral patterns, the collection embodies the changing of seasons from winter to spring, or summer to fall with its versatile range.
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FASHION FAVORITES
Runway photos courtesy of Paolo Caponetto Backstage photos courtesy of Jonathan Bookallil
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Adut Akech Photo by Yannis Vlamos
Carla Bruni Photo by Yannis Vlamos
Anna Schwger Photo by Peter White
Tara Falla Photo by Yannis Vlamos
Grace Elizabeth Photo by Yannis Vlamos Fernanda Romero
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Weronika Zalazinska, Green Gaskell
Malika Elmaslouhi Photo by Yannis Vlamos
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FASHION FAVORITES
THE MESSIKA HIGH JEWELRY SHOW HITS FASHION WEEK Photos courtesy of @GETTY IMAGES (PRNewsfoto/MESSIKA)
An exceptional evening took place in the presence of the most prominent personalities of the moment: Cher, Ester Expósito, Carla Bruni, Ashley Graham, Taraji P. Henson, Nicola Coughlan, Kelly Rowland, Ed Westwick and Amy Jackson, Joy Crookes, Sara Sampaio and Damson Idris. They all gathered alongside Valérie Messika to share this memorable moment. Messika’s show was 70s-themed with the new High Jewelry collection, Midnight Sun, which adds a burst of light to the night. Some of the most famous fashion models paraded during this extraordinary show were Carla Bruni, Taylor Hill, Grace Elisabeth, Alton Mason and Adut Akech. Ashley Graham presented the unique moments broadcast live on social networks. The event also featured a performance by Ava Max. The artistic director unveiled 140 creations with a resolutely subversive spirit, including yellow diamonds, snow-setting, magnetic wear, pearls, color contrasts, etc. The Solar Diva was a particular show-stopper with its yellow diamond that weighs almost 35 carats. This is one of the largest stones ever set since the beginnings of the High Jewelry Maison. Echoing the magnetic sets of the Midnight Sun collection, the clothes were designed by designer Nix Lecourt Mansion. Certain exclusive looks, set with diamonds, were specially co-created with Valérie Messika. Stylist Héléna Tejedor worked alongside the Artistic Director to design unique and assertive looks: 30 bold and hypnotic silhouettes, created together to enhance the collection.
Taraji P Henson, Cher, Valérie Messika & Kelly Rowland Photo by GETTY IMAGES
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FASHION FAVORITES DeAndre Beverly Designs
God’s Eye Designs
Nevach Couture
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Batu Collection
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FASHION FAVORITES Tracee Dundas, founder of NOFW
Veleria Stevens Designs
NEW ORLEANS FASHION WEEK RECAP Photos courtesy of Travis Burke
New Orleans Fashion Week (NOFW) was a five-day event of full programming that included over 50 runway shows and highlighted New Orleans’ best across categories in beauty and fashion. New Orleans Fashion Week served as a platform for the city’s top creatives to showcase and share their work, and also provided career opportunities for up-and-coming designers and models. With the Top Design Competition, Fashion Industry Career Day and the “Model Walk-Off ” competition, models had the chance to win a trip to Los Angeles and meet with Launch Model and Talent Agency to kickstart their modeling careers. “New Orleans Fashion Week programming has set the stage for local talent for a decade, and remains a vehicle to catapult future designers as the southern fashion scene continues to evolve in unprecedented ways,” said Tracee Dundas, NOFW founder and executive producer. “I’m always in awe of the collaborations and relationships that form during NOFW. From designers partnering together to support each other’s brand to editorial photoshoots and opportunities in other fashion markets. It’s rewarding to see that we have created a platform that is recognized globally.”
Champagne Service at NOFW 2023
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Alexandra Bujan honoring Ukraine
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THE ULTIMATE LUXURY GOLF CAR HAS ARRIVED Crafted from only the highest quality automotive materials, and through the most revolutionary design in the industry, Garia creates vehicles that perform even better than they look. Recognized as much for its functionality and usability as for its modern Scandinavian aesthetic, the Garia is not just your average golf cart. It’s a golf car.
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EXECUTIVE CHANGES
FASHION 411
UNDERWEAR BRAND TOMMY JOHN NAMES CHERYL ABEL-HODGES AS CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Leading underwear brand Tommy John has tapped industry leader Cheryl Abel-Hodges as its new chief executive officer. Last week, she joined Tommy John’s executive team from her former role as Calvin Klein’s chief executive officer. She will work closely with brand founders, Tom Patterson and Erin Fujimoto to build the Tommy John brand through continued wholesale expansion and product innovation. Abel-Hodges brings extensive experience in the underwear and apparel space through her nearly 30 years within the fashion industry including executive stints as president of the PVH Underwear Group, president of Wholesale Sportswear at Izod, vice president of Sales and Planning at Ralph Lauren and vice president general manager of Apparel at Liz Claiborne. Abel-Hodges joins Tommy John at an inflection point as it has doubled its wholesale footprint since 2022 and is expected to increase its retail presence by 40% before the end of the year. Under her leadership, the brand will further invest in wholesale, pursue new product innovations rooted in comfort and continue to grow and evolve the brand toward the future. Photo courtesy of Business Wire
CALERES NAMES ITS FIRST EVER CHIEF DESIGN & PRODUCT OFFICER, NATELLE BADDELEY Caleres, the market-leading portfolio of consumer-driven footwear brands, announced today the promotion of Natelle Baddeley to chief design and product officer. Baddeley will continue to report to Jay Schmidt, chief executive officer of Caleres. In this role, Baddeley has creative oversight for the majority of the Caleres brand portfolio, including Naturalizer, Vionic, Dr. Scholl’s, Veronica Beard, Vince, Franco Sarto, Blowfish Malibu and LifeStride. She will be responsible for leading product strategy across design, merchandising and innovation. In addition, she will continue to champion Caleres’ sustainability efforts to minimize the impact of manufacturing on the environment, efforts that have not only driven significant progress toward the company’s 2025 environmental, social and governance (ESG) commitments. Baddeley also earned Caleres recognition as one of America’s Most Responsible Companies by Newsweek and one of America’s Climate Leaders by USA Today. Baddeley joined Caleres in 2018 as senior vice president, design, merchandise and product development strategy. Her career in footwear and accessories spans more than 30 years, including time as the senior vice president and creative director of global design for Nine West and Bandolino at Jones Apparel Group, where she was responsible for global trend and design direction for all footwear and accessory product categories, including all licenses. She also led footwear design at many European brands as well as retailers Debenhams and Marks and Spencer. Baddeley studied at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, specializing in footwear.
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Photo courtesy of Business Wire
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FASHION 411
FOOTWEAR
PUMA WELCOMES SUSTAINABLE FASHION ADVOCATE AISHWARYA SHARMA TO VOICES OF A RE:GENERATION INITIATIVE Global sports company PUMA has expanded the regional reach of its Voices of a RE:GENERATION initiative beyond Europe and the U.S. and added sustainable fashion advocate Aishwarya Sharma to the project. Sharma joins PUMA’s roster of next-gen thinkers as part of its year-long project to advance its sustainability efforts by collaborating with young environmentalists. Based in Delhi, India, Sharma is passionate about driving change towards a more sustainable fashion industry and has made a name for herself for her work around women’s rights, fashion, social media and climate change at events such as COP27. Sharma joined PUMA’s Voices of a RE:GENERATION initiative this past September and will explore the opportunities and challenges faced by the brand in the area of sustainability, whilst making recommendations for actionable change. She will also work with PUMA to improve the way it communicates sustainability to its India-based audience. Photo courtesy of Business Wire
UGG® LAUNCHES REGENERATE BY UGG COLLECTION In taking a step toward a more regenerative world, UGG released Regenerate by UGG, an all-gender, sustainability-focused collection crafted with materials from land cared for with regenerative traditions. By 2025, UGG has vowed to help restore one million acres of grassland into regenerative farmland. In 2022, the brand established a long-term grant with Savory Institute to support regenerative farming practices on sheep farms in Australia. Today, UGG has contributed to the restoration of 310,000 acres. Throughout this five-year commitment, the brand hopes to leave a legacy of transformation on the Australian sheepskin industry by helping these farms work regeneratively. UGG is continuing to find ways to source innovative materials more responsibly and support the well-being of surrounding communities through tapping heroes in the space. The brand partnered with creators, activists and changemakers in the regenerative community to debut the Regenerate by UGG collection. Photo courtesy of UGG
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BEAUTY
FASHION 411
ARDELL BEAUTY’S SEAMLESS INTRODUCES PATENTED LASH EXTENSION CLUSTERS Ardell Beauty announces The Seamless Collection. Elevating the lash game to new heights, this collection offers patented customizable lash extension clusters for a flawless and no-show lash enhancement experience. The collection is available in-store at Ulta, Ulta.com and ArdellShop.com. Ardell’s Patented Seamless Collection launches with two classic lash styles: Wispies and Fauxmink. These lashes are hand-crafted and meticulously designed for the underlash application technique. The All-Inclusive Set is a complete package designed to revolutionize your lash application. It includes 36 assorted length Extensions, a Black Bond, a Clear Seal, a Gentle Remover and a Contoured Applicator. Ardell’s commitment to providing a diverse range of patented lash solutions is evident with the innovation of Seamless Lashes. Seamless offers the complete customizability of your lash routine, allowing you up to six applications and a long-lasting hold of up to 10 days. The epitome of long-wear, these lash extensions emulate the sophistication of a total seamless lash application, bringing the professional salon to your home for an easy and convenient at-home lash application. Photo courtesy of Ardell Beauty on PRNewswire
DERMATOLOGIST DR. BLAIR ROSE LAUNCHES SKINCARE JUNKIE Board-certified and award-winning dermatologist Dr. Blair Rose recently launched Skincare Junkie, a skincare line that utilizes powerful and clinically-proven ingredients in just the right combinations and concentrations to solve common skin problems. The fragrance-free, hypoallergenic, pregnancy-safe, cruelty-free and vegan formulas are developed by Dr. Rose so you can feed your skincare obsession without the confusion that comes with navigating a million unproven beauty products. Skincare Junkie products are also paraben-, phthalate-, sulfate- and SLSfree. The launch consists of three foundational products: a daily Gentle Jelly Facial Cleanser ($34), an oil-free Megadose Super Antioxidant Face Moisturizer ($68) and Pore Therapy Daily Toner Pads ($38). The Gently Jelly Facial Cleanser is pH-balanced and rich in ceramides to reduce irritation and support the skin barrier. Cucumber soothes redness and niacinamide brightens dullness to achieve smoother, more radiant skin. The Megadose Super Antioxidant Face Moisturizer is the first non-comedogenic nontoxic moisturizer full of bioavailable antioxidants to prevent oxidative damage and boost collagen production. Nourishing centella asiatica soothes and calms while hyaluronic acid deeply hydrates and plumps. The Pore Therapy Daily Toner Pads are soaked in a proprietary blend of salicylic acid, antioxidant-rich fruit enzymes and PHA to gently exfoliate pore-clogging dead skin cells, prevent breakouts, remove dullness and improve texture. Aloe soothes and calms to support the delicate skin barrier, while hyaluronic acids hydrate. Photo courtesy of Skincare Junkie on PRNewswire
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COLLECTIONS
FASHION 411
WITHIT APPLE WATCH ACCESSORIES “BAND CANDY” HITS FALL FASHION WITHit announced their Band Candy Collection, an innovative Apple Watch accessory drop. From plug-and-play charms for your wrist, all the way to never-before-seen Apple Watch bands with colors that pop, WITHit’s Band Candy Collection is all affordably priced and available now at withitgear.com. The collection includes Band Candy Charms, adorable charms that easily pop into the holes with WITHit’s specially-designed Apple Watch bands to boost your device’s fun and personality. Additional charms include sets like Hope, Paradise, Love and Glamour. Priced at $15 for a set of four, you can easily mix and match for more of the fashion accessory fun. Also featured are the Band Candy Sliders. The Sparkle Slider Set has four distinctive designs that add flair to your wrist, including a textured yellow gold metal slider, a cross-patterned yellow gold metal slider adorned with sparkling crystals and two more crystal-encrusted sliders in silver and rose gold. Priced at $15 for a set of four, these sliders slip on WITHit’s Band Candy Textured Silicone Bands (sold separately for $20) and are specifically designed to hold the sliders. Finally, the Band Candy Metal and Color Acetate Bands for Apple Watch is a unique style that boasts a robust tapered metal link band woven with colorful acetate. Priced at $25, these bands are the perfect fusion of fashion-forward design and high-quality materials. Band Candy Metal and Color Acetate bands are available in three expressive colorways: Serene Blue, Radiant Pink and Energy Green.
Photo courtesy of Paul Gordon
KEKE PALMER DROPS “NOSTALGIC GRACE” WITH ZENNI® OPTICAL Zenni Optical announced the drop of its “Nostalgic Grace” collection, curated in partnership with Emmy® Award-winning actress, musician, producer and style icon, Keke Palmer. “Nostalgic Grace” expresses Palmer’s old soul with a new vibe, featuring 91 frames filled with a playful attitude, elegance and unbreakable confidence starting at $6.95. The retro-chic collection captures the nostalgia of the changing seasons, providing the perfect styles for autumn and winter. Leading the lineup is a tortoiseshell geometric frame that takes thick rims to a whole new level and a fashion-forward square frame that comes in tortoiseshell, granite and black with red interior. The “Nostalgic Grace” collection follows previous mood releases, “Board Certified” and “Summer Love,” which capture the sleek aesthetic of the boardroom and the vibrant essence of summer style, respectively. An additional phase of the campaign will launch later this fall featuring a new mood with more glamorous frames. From the beach to the office, to a night on the town or at home, there are styles reflective of every mood, spirit and style for an affordable price. Photo courtesy of Zenni Optical on PRNewswire
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Experience art history, fresh pasta, world class shopping & wine experiences on a curated group trip to Florence & Val D'Orcia.
THE DESTINATION DESIGNER 26 | FM November/December 2023
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November 17-18, 2023 Chattanooga, TN
Runway, Education, Networking, Curated Shopping
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FINANCE
CONSUMER PRODUCTS:
WHY GROWING COMPANIES INVEST IN INTEGRATED TECHNOLOGY, ADVANCED DATA AND ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE
By Michael Sacco Partner, National Leader - Consumer & Industrial Products
This article is republished from a July 11, 2023 article from Marcum, LLP. Post-COVID issues and challenges continue to impact global trade and e-commerce across most industries and the lingering effects are affecting consumer products companies. Supply chain systems remain disrupted by increased shipping costs and delays, constant regulatory and compliance changes, heightened sustainability requirements, and cybersecurity risks. Fortune 500 companies have led the way in integrating technology systems by using advanced data analytics and implementing game-changing Artificial Intelligence (AI) to address these challenges. Mid-size companies can follow the same path, leveraging similar solutions to maximize inventory management and support better business operations overall. Leading Companies Continue to Invest in Technology It is no secret that Fortune 500 industry leaders like Zara, Target and Coca-Cola rely on integrated, robust inventory management technology systems. Companies are turning to technology to boost top and bottom-line growth, largely driven by our interconnected online world and constant demand for new products and unique brand experiences. Whether funds are poured into custom-built proprietary systems or commercial cloud-based platforms like SAP S/4HANA, Oracle NetSuite, Microsoft 365 Dynamics or Acumatica, companies in the midsize market are following suit. Businesses are prioritizing technology and making it work for them, recognizing that integrating inventory management solutions with other applications allows them to leverage advanced analytics and automation, and scale operations like their industry-leading competitors. The long-term benefits and cost savings of adopting this technology are practically immeasurable. With modern systems, companies are better positioned for growth. Take Procter & Gamble’s (P&G) success as an example. During the pandemic, they were hit severely by supply chain issues. Widely publicized, their brand-named products for hand sanitizer, disinfectant spray, antibacterial cleaning products and other sta-
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ples struggled to meet demand globally. To build a more resilient and agile supply chain system, P&G heavily invested in cloud infrastructure for big data storage, artificial intelligence and machine learning to improve the customer experience and drive top-line growth. Vittorio Cretella, CIO of P&G, lead of the transformation, shared that “advanced data analytics lets us offer consumers the best selection of products at their local stores and reach them on their preferred channels…” and “make predictions, such as the success of a promotion or the best product assortment by store clusters.” As a multinational consumer goods corporation and supplier of health and hygienic products, P&G continues to benefit from this upgrade. As they recover from supply chain challenges, future growth and financial gains allow continued operational excellence and innovation. Kevins Worldwide, an Inc. 5000 fastest-growing eCommerce and Apparel company for the third year in a row, also switched to a leading cloud-based ERP solution. Over the years, company growth often invited chaos by managing across multiple systems, which led to errors affecting fulfillment. Eventually, the company invested in advanced financials, inventory management, customer management, and other key functionality solutions to create a single, seamless operating platform. This move to modernize improved inventory management and profit margins. It also helped management gain insight into suppliers, manufacturers, and distributors and offered real-time data to inform collaborative planning and improve coordination across the entire supply chain. Shoebacca, a Texas online retail store with over 700,000 SKUs of name-brand shoes and apparel like Adidas, Puma and New Balance also upgraded its systems. The move was long past due as their existing ERP system and homegrown warehouse management system could no longer support real-time integration, becoming far too costly. Migrating to a leading inventory management and supply chain system integrating financial, customer, distribution and warehouse data proved pivotal for growth. Thomas Finney, current Shoebacca CTO, values advanced technology tremendously. The new system can “build in functionality in a way that
best fits our business needs… and allows us to connect with third-party solutions to a degree that other ERP solutions don’t.” Advanced integration with other systems allows concurrent tracking of products and shipments. Up-to-date information on inventory levels and locations enabled Shoebacca to improve planning and decision-making to manage inventory levels by repurposing, rebranding and discounting product and carrying costs. According to Gartner analysts, overall IT spending holds strong and is expected to reach $5 trillion by 2024. The projection on IT software alone accounts for nearly $1 trillion of the above budget forecast. That represents a dramatic shift from where we are today. Forward-thinking leaders should embrace technologies that can transform their company’s value proposition, revenue and client interactions. With the increased focus on technology, the different systems and their capabilities and benefits, it is important for organizations to seek outside guidance in their decision-making process when upgrading to modern systems and integrated platforms. How to Get Started To navigate through today’s issues and challenges, companies should continue to invest in technology that enables them to simplify supply chain operations, move with agility and adopt resilience strategies. By implementing and utilizing the right technologies effectively, businesses can improve inventory levels, streamline operations, enhance customer service and increase overall profitability and growth. At Marcum and Marcum Technology, we bring deep expertise in purchasing, inventory management, warehouse management, supply chain and ERP systems – helping companies align business and IT capabilities to select and optimize technology systems for the future. Informed by industry-leading experience and services, Marcum offers insights focused on improving operations and order fulfillment while reducing excess inventory costs. We are technology and business transformation experts who are here to help.
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FINANCE
FLASHBACK PART 7:
20th Century Fashion History Los Angeles BY RONALD S. FRIEDMAN, CPA Hello again! At the beginning of November, the holiday selling season has begun. I am sure you are starting to see the holiday ads on television and in your emails. Every year, it seems like Black Friday starts earlier and earlier. I suppose that by November 1, Black Friday will be every day of the week as you are bombarded with sales discounts from Big Box stores to department stores. As we recover from the Covid years, people want to get out and shop. Malls will be busy with consumers looking at every store, but will they spend their dollars? The truth is, nobody knows for sure, but we all can speculate. I am concerned about events taking place in the world and how this will influence the holiday season. As of this writing, Israel is fighting a war after being brutally attacked by Hamas. How does this affect us in the United States? Protests supporting Israel are taking place all over the country, and we see counter-protests as well. Will these protests interrupt the holiday selling season? I hope not, but I fear that any potential violence in the United States may keep shoppers away for fear of being in the wrong place at the wrong time. What else might influence the holiday selling season? The number of containers arriving in the ports has been significantly reduced from prior years.
There was a time when the ports were backed up with ships waiting to unload their cargo, and the delay was up to sixty days. However, today that’s not the case. The traffic at the ports is down, and wait times are minimal. I suspect that new merchandise arriving for the holiday season will be substantially reduced, and as customers are looking for fresh finds in the stores, they may be out of luck. Now, onto other news from the past and present. My wife and I just celebrated our 50th wedding with a party at El Caballero Country Club, and now I am having my hip replaced after fifty years of running. I love running, but the body can only handle a certain amount of miles before the hip wears out. In addition, a new hip requires me to give up golf for a couple of months, which is not going to be easy. As in prior articles, I like to revisit the history of the apparel industry from when I started 52 years ago. During the 1980s and 1990s, holiday parties were occurring throughout December. Every company seemed to spend great sums of money to invite customers, suppliers, and professional business associates to celebrate the holiday season. You see very little of that today. I remember my firm put together one such party at Chasen’s Restaurant in Los Angeles in 1985. Chasen’s was known for being expensive with the best chili in town. We had every factor, banker, and client we worked with there to en-
joy food, drink and atmosphere. For the next ten years, everyone who was there still raved about the food and the party. Thirty-eight years later, I still remember that night. In just a few months, 2024 will be upon us, and by popular demand, the Marcum Retail Symposium will return with Marshal Cohen. Also, a special thank you to Jeff Mann for his continued support of Marcum and the Retail Symposium. Thanks, Jeff, as we look forward to another great year. Look for more information in the New Year as we are just starting to plan for the Symposium for April 2024. Marshal was our keynote speaker last year, and his knowledge and understanding of the apparel and consumer products industry dazzled the attendees. Marshal Cohen is a nationally known expert on consumer behavior and the retail sector. This is an event you will not want to miss. Until next time, remember what I always conclude with--- if you are not having fun, then do something else!
Ronald S. Friedman, CPA, is an advisory and assurance partner in the Los Angeles office of Marcum LLP and a retail practice leader in the Firm’s Consumer & Industrial Products group. Contact him at Ron.friedman@marcumllp.com.
Photo courtesy of Unslpash
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GINA SABIO
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“Luxury Begins Here”
- GS
Gina Sabio Licensed as Virginia Sabio Licensed Associate Real Estate Broker C: 917-325-8147 | O: 212-590-2473 GSabio@christiesrealestategroup.com | christiesrealestategroup.com Christie’s International Real Estate Group 1 Rockefeller Plaza #2402 | New York, NY 10020
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Expertly designed financing Capital One® Commercial Banking offers you the financial services your business needs to succeed. You get customized solutions designed by a dedicated team of Consumer Products bankers with a combined track record of more than 75 years in the apparel, footwear, accessories and beauty sectors—and they’re backed by the full-services capabilities of a top 10 U.S. bank.* Let us create a solution that matches your vision.
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*Note: Rank excludes banks with high non-loan asset concentrations: Goldman Sachs, Morgan Stanley, BONY, State Street, Charles Schwab. Ranks as of 9/30/2019. Based upon total gross loans and total aggregated domestic deposits for bank holding company. Sources: SNL, FDIC, company reports. Products and services are offered by Capital One, N.A., NMLS ID 453156, Equal Housing Lender and Member FDIC. © 2020 Capital One. November/December 2023 mannpublications.com
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FEATURE
Step into the World of Daniella Ortiz Where Exotic Meets Refined By Laurie Melchionne In the sultry heat of West Palm Beach’s Worth Avenue, Daniella Ortiz’s flagship store stands surrounded by climbing azaleas and windows adorned with handbags crafted by Argentinian leather experts. The Worth Avenue flagship is one of three luxury locations in the South Florida area, where the world of Daniella Ortiz contributes to charity, thrives on meticulously crafted handbags with roots in both Argentina and Italy, and dazzles hotels, boutiques, showrooms and more with high-end trunk shows that deliver Ortiz’s one-of-a-kind “companions” throughout the United States. Handbags Made with Love…Literally Flashback to 18 years ago. Husband-and-wife team Daniella Ortiz and Alfredo Baeza decided to launch Daniella Ortiz, the brand, in South Florida where Ortiz had already built a life as a director of fundraising and development at Nova Southeastern University. The couple met while Ortiz attended her best friend’s wedding in Argentina. At the time, Alfredo was a manager at a large company in Argentina, while Daniella had her life in Florida. It was then that the two faced a choice: one of them had to give up their lives in America or Argentina so that they could be together. Economics in Argentina faced an unstable time, so fate decided for the couple; Alfredo came to Florida and the two decided that the best way to start a life together was to become the powerhouse team that they are today. Daniella is the brand’s beating heart, while Alfredo spearheads the behind-the-scenes operations it takes to plan, design, manufacture and market each carefully crafted concept. Along with a team of two designers, Daniella’s vision for each sketch requires a nine-monthlong process. During this time, each item is born out of countless hours of dedication to the tiniest of details, from the placement of carved sterling silver hardware to the addition of pockets, zippers or hidden compartments. “Sometimes, I’ll have an idea in the middle of the night and I’ll start sketching something in my bed so I don’t forget the next day,” laughed Ortiz. “From there, I’ll show it to my husband. He has a very good sense of design and aesthetic, and is very involved in the design process as well.” With this design team, nothing is ever rushed; each product receives the same meticulous devotion to detail that is shared with its traditional manufacturers in Argentina and, now for the first time, Italy.
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The Daniella Ortiz Woman Being a Daniella Ortiz woman means several things at once. On the surface, it means flaunting bags, jewelry and belts with roots both in Argentina and Italy, where both of these manufacturing behemoths in leather-making contribute their iconic craftsmanship to the smallest detail on a Daniella Ortiz product. Genuine lizard, crocodile and stingray blend the exotic environments of Argentina with elegant leather. When you drag your hand across the gilded luster of the Justine bag, or the bold crimson of the Serena clutch, you know exactly what it feels like to touch the wildlife of the Yacutinga Rainforest or the Iguazu Falls. Whether you’re standing in the Worth Avenue flagship, the shop at the Town Center at Boca Raton, or the Waldorf Astoria boutique, you will find yourself surrounded by a rainbow array of colors. With these options, Daniella Ortiz allows the wearer to become a part of Argentina’s landscape. Gone are the days when elegant handbags translate to the standard black, white, gray or brown leather. At Daniella Ortiz, class and refinement mean head-turning color, exotic fabrics sourced with unparalleled materials and statement-making crossbodies, clutches, shoulder bags, wallets and so much more. While each bag is made with the same high-quality dedication, no two designs are alike. The Versailles, with its silver lion heads, pebbled leather surface and suede lining, differs from the hardware-featuring Mia, whose reflective lizard skin glosses the bag with a marble-like shine. Three staple elements comprise every product you’ll find on shelves: sophistication, boldness and versatility. The World of Charity Behind each handbag, belt or piece of jewelry, Daniella Ortiz spearheads a vibrant social calendar. “I love people. I love talking and making new friends,” explained Ortiz, who shared that her people-person approach to haute couture is why charity is such an integral part of the brand. Ortiz is no stranger to fundraising; her time at the University integrated her in this world. “Each charity has a director of development,” she said, “which made me think, ‘How about doing a pop-up in these crowds and giving a percentage back to the charities?’” Trunk shows take the brand throughout the country. More than 60
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FEATURE of these shows buzz each year, where 15-20% of profits get donated to charities. It’s a win-win relationship for everyone involved, which is at the heart of the Ortiz operation: cultivating lasting friendships in the industry is how people remember Daniella wherever she goes. A few groups that benefit from the fashionistas who flock to Daniella Ortiz shows include the Boys and Girls Club, the American Cancer Society, the International Red Cross, the American Lung Association, Easter Seals of Florida, the Ocean Reef Medical Center and many more. Boldness Defined With each handbag, wallet or bracelet, Daniella Ortiz invites wearers to be bold, to turn heads and to define fierce style however they want. The second you step outside with an Ortiz “companion,” consider yourself part of a high-end, charitable community dedicated to the best in luxury accessories.
Photos courtesy of Daniella Ortiz
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FEATURE
ALCHEMY
by MOIRA HUGHES Based in Sydney, Australia, Moira Hughes has been dubbed “one of the top bridal designers” by Harper’s Bazaar and “one to watch” by Vogue. With an education at a London fashion school and silks and laces from Paris, Milan and London, Moira Hughes’ bridal couture and ready-to-wear collections deliver European elegance with a distinct, global flare that blends inspiration from the world’s major fashion scenes. The latest buzz around Moira Hughes is the Alchemy Collection. The 2024 Alchemy Collection debuted during New York Bridal Week. “Inspired by the magical process of transformation, where something flat takes form and shape, this collection embodies the essence of creation and metamorphosis,” said Hughes. “Much like an alchemist turns base metals into precious ones, this collection skilfully plays with the fluidity of drape, the incorporation of pearls and crystal, transformative additions and hand-beaded details.” Transformation is at the heart of Alchemy’s theme; each piece catapults its wearer to a metamorphosis of self-expression, identity and elegance—however she may define it on her special day. Alchemy is designed for the bride who seeks something truly distinctive,” Hughes added. “It’s for the woman who embraces transformational details and craves a touch of high fashion and personality in her gown. A gown that is meticulously crafted to be an extension of her identity, a dress that feels like ‘her.’” To learn more about Moira Hughes, visit moirahughes.com.
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FEATURE Photos courtesy of Moira Hughes
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SNAPS CLOTHING CO
FEATURE
UPGRADING CASUAL MENSWEAR FOR FALL-WINTER 2023
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By Joseph Pastrana
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FEATURE Across the board, fall and winter are traditionally the seasons when the demand for formal fashions uptick due to the cooler weather and holiday gatherings that take place from Thanksgiving through New Year’s Eve. Globally, the projections for formalwear from 2021 to 2028 estimate a jump of 6% in this $3.4B industry. Clearly, there are countless brands that either focus on formalwear or carry suits, tuxedoes and dress shirts for such occasions. But in the US, outside of metropolitan areas, Americans, especially American men, still express some hesitation when it comes to dressing up. So there’s quite a significant segment of men that can be served by appealing to a middle ground where casual meets dressy. It’s therefore quite fitting that it’s Snaps Clothing Co., a brand from out West that’s found a sweet spot of providing all the comforts of casual while looking at home in formal settings. Its starting point is the traditional Western shirt that originated with front pockets, single-point front yokes, one yoke in the back, and snap closures as everyday workwear. The long tradition of this garment goes back to its evolution of pleated shirts from Latin countries to distinctly American garments in cotton or denim that were sturdy enough for the ranchers and cattle hands in the dusty and rough conditions of the Dust Bowl and settlement towns. Production of these shirts in commercial quantities is reckoned to have occurred in the 1940s. But the demand for them truly escalated after
they began appearing in the very popular Western movies that followed. The iconic cowboy looks of that period then developed further as they were used in films, television shows and the rodeo circuit. Soon they were made available in more colors, with added embroidery, fringes and other embellishments. As a whole, nostalgia has really taken hold of fashion due to social media’s capacity to endorse the full range of imagery from fashion history while removing the context of fixed periods. There is more interest and willingness today for young people to experiment with their looks by dipping into whatever decade they wish. It was therefore perfectly understandable that the western shirt gained traction in the last couple of decades. The problem is how to find the right garments in stores. When Edgar Baronne and Patrick Lynn founded Snaps Clothing Co., they were determined to bridge the storied past of the beloved shirt and the needs of today’s modern menswear market. They started by removing the extravagant flourishes that have turned the item into a caricature. But the key was keeping its most iconic feature: the pearl snaps which not only work as dependable closures but as the handsome signature of the brand. The vertical front snaps in lieu of buttons are equally functional as they are stylish. From its hardy work week Landry collection to its fun weekend Rambler collection, Snaps Clothing
Co. not only reimagined this item but has made it even more timeless than ever before. After receiving an enthusiastic market response to the initial rollout of the Rambler and the Landry collections, the brand built on the momentum with a midweight denim line as part of its Heritage Collection. With the steady growth in business, the label has also gradually expanded its offerings to encompass various aspects of today’s lifestyles. Now, the brand is further reimagining this classic piece of Americana for the Fall and Winter 2023 seasons with fabric blends, sophisticated colors and slim fits that bring it added versatility and a very modern look. From classic black to seasonal oranges and darker tones, there’s something for everybody that can be paired with an evening jacket or suit. Paying due respect to its Western-inspired origins, the brand has a tailored fit and is slightly tapered through the waist with just the right amount of stretch. The more casual items are designed to be worn untucked, have double pockets, or come in short-sleeved versions. The more formal shirts have single pockets and may be tucked into dressier trousers. Of course, either version fits well into friendly get-togethers, dates, or nights on the town, from getting together with family and friends to the upcoming Christmas festivities and ringing in the New Year. Snaps Clothing Co. shirts are manufactured in soft and breathable 95% Cotton and 5% LYCRA®, retailing for $109 in sizes small to xx-large.
Photos courtesy of Snaps Clothing Co.
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FASHION AT HOME
KOHLER AND ANN SACKS PARTNER WITH DESIGNER SHEA MCGEE ON NEW PRODUCT COLLECTIONS
FASHION AT HOME Kohler Co., celebrating 150 years of innovation, quality and craftsmanship, builds on its legacy of design leadership through an exciting new collaboration with Shea McGee and her firm, Studio McGee. The Kohler x Studio McGee Collection blends classic and modern design influences providing timeless expressions for the home. The new collection is available for purchase exclusively in Kohler Signature Stores and Kohler Experience Centers and on Kohler.com. The Ann Sacks x Studio McGee Collection features two finely executed porcelain designs and an intricate stone mosaic, each incorporating McGee’s distinctive style that speaks to a range of tastes and lifestyles. The new luxury tiles are available through Ann Sacks Showrooms, AnnSacks.com, Kohler Signature Stores and Kohler Experience Centers. The Kohler x Studio McGee Collection includes six distinct product lines: Edalyn™ Kitchen Faucets Transitional by design, each faucet is characterized by a distinguished, high-profile spout that is complemented by stacked detailing and clean lines. Beyond a striking appearance, the Edalyn kitchen faucets embrace practicality, providing a range of spray types that cater to diverse needs by offering a semi-professional faucet, bar and kitchen faucet, bridge faucet and pot filler. The side spray coordinating with the bridge boasts metal construction for durability, while the pull-down and semi-professional configurations feature the spray settings and functional technologies that are synonymous with Kohler kitchen faucets.
Kernen™ Lighting Textured coining details and elegant milk glass infuse an updated vintage charm into the design. Meticulous in every aspect, Kernen’s scale has been thoughtfully enhanced, striking a balance between boldly impactful and practically functional for a beautiful proportion. Additionally, the Ann Sacks x Studio McGee Collections can be specified for wall or flooring installations. Canyon Lake by Studio McGee The dry-pressed glazed porcelain tiles feature an undulating surface that captures and reflects light. Canyon Lake is available in both field and trim formats with rich color offerings that include Antique White, Stone, Sea Salt, Mist, Midnight and Dusty Rose. Novah by Studio McGee A versatile porcelain tile that provides the appearance of limestone, Novah is offered in four sizes which can be mixed and used alone, or together in an array of combinations. Available in Salt, Sand and Glacier, Novah can be set up in a checkerboard layout with the selection of two colors. Willow Heights by Studio McGee This timeless stone mosaic was inspired by parquet flooring. The sheeted mosaic is available in two 12”x 12” patterns – Brynn and Rylee – and is offered in Calacatta, Calacatta and Britannia, and Calacatta and Bardiglio.
Castia™ Bathroom Faucets and Accessories Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the faucets showcase the artistry of precision machine knurling, delicately stamped levers and stacked connection points in a subtle homage to the raw beauty of pipe fittings. The versatile line consists of sink faucets, bath fillers, shower valves and trims, showerheads, hand showers and coordinating bathroom accessories. Castia features multiple flow rate options to accommodate customers across national markets. Malin™ Vanities With distinctive square legs and clean lines, Malin vanities represent an undeniable Shaker sensibility. Integrated reeding detail, delicate door framing and classic mushroom knobs—three details found throughout furniture design history—add a captivating combination of layers for a uniquely versatile and timeless design. The vanities include quartz tops and rectangular under-mount sinks, offered in both single- and double-bowl formats depending on size, which range from 24” to 72”. Finish options include a Studio McGee White Oak wood finish, as well as a classic White painted finish. Seagrove™ Vanities Imbued with midcentury modern style, the vanity design features tapered legs adorned with beveled edges and gracefully curved transitions. The inclusion of dimensional details, like drop ring pulls embellished with exposed slotted screws, creates a striking balance, infusing the overall space with enduring quality. The Seagrove vanity is offered in single- or double-bowl formats in a variety of size offerings. Finish options include Ferrous Grey (dark painted grey) and Light Clay (neutral color hue). Embra™ Lighting Refined reeding on the glass spheres is effortlessly balanced with exposed screw details, evoking a captivating juxtaposition of glamour and industrial chic. With an adjustable chain and an array of finish offerings, Embra ensures a tailored and coordinated aesthetic.
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Photos courtesy of Kohler Co.
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FEATURE
MONZA EYEWEAR LAUNCHES RACING-INSPIRED
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FEATURE
M
onza Design Limited Edition Eyewear’s latest collection features elite styles that symbolize the golden age of racing. Adapted aviator and modern motorsports shapes with balanced proportions combine in strong colors to maximize vision within this range of high-tech designs. Co-founded by David Lee and Ross Vance, the collection is driven by discerning taste and a unique understanding of the industry as well as the most innovative and complex treatments, tooling and technologies in the industry. The collection was launched during Monterey Car Week. The limited range includes deconstructed design elements across the face and temples including screws, rivets, fender detailing and racing lines. Modified navigators, aviator styles, historical panto shapes, modern shields, and goggle designs are creating new icons of style and champions of eyewear excellence. A variety of unique applications in lacquers and enamel techniques are all done by hand. The racing line, a signature detail representing the fastest way around the track, is incorporated into the curves etched around
each Monza Limited Edition frame. Apex to edge, temple or lens, the unique design distinction showcases elements of the course with movement, beauty and a connection to the track. David Lee is a renowned jeweler retailer and a globally-recognized Ferrari collector with over 30 years in the luxury industry. Influenced by European style, automotive racing and classic car collecting, he is credited by industry insiders for the best resto-mod to one of the most beautiful cars Enzo Ferrari ever created. His Dino sports car project, the Monza 3.6 EVO, is considered the car that should have been built, with a Ferrari V8 engine possessing 400 horsepower and countless other modifications, and is the vision behind Monza Design. Lee partnered with Ross Vance, chief engineer, Sama Eyewear, to create Monza Design Eyewear, an advanced take on a classic luxury with automotive styling, modern technology and premium materials.
and style, all of which we captured in creating our Monza Design Eyewear,” said Vance. Each pair of Monza Design Limited Edition Eyewear is lightweight, durable and 100% hypoallergenic, made exclusively in Japan. Using only the finest in premium materials including pure titanium ore and plant-based non-petroleum Japanese cellulose acetate, each piece takes over three months and 500 hours to craft with over 20 technical processes, 100 hand applications and unique treatments in each piece which meets the rigor of the Japanese governmental code for strength and durability. The Monza lens, also produced in Japan, is the finest quality optical-grade, preventing 100% of UV rays with a multi-layered anti-reflection coating for infinite crystal-clear vision by a careful study of tailoring details.
Monza Design is the new expression of authentic luxury eyewear with flashbacks of legends, speed, sound and style for those who move full throttle through the track of life. “Formula 1 has never been just about racing, it has been a global lifestyle full of excitement, elegance, incredible precision
Photos courtesy of Monza
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COVER FEATURE
HOW TO MAKE IT IN MANHATTAN WITH
CAROLINE VAZZANA By LAURIE MELCHIONNE Meet Caroline Vazzana, fashion influencer with almost half a million followers on Instagram, and host of the five-star-rated Apple Podcast, “Making it in Manhattan.” Vazzana’s main gig is in styling and editorial; her hands in the fashion industry run deep. When she’s not glamming up the streets of SoHo or attending New York runway shows, you can find her strutting in front of the Eiffel Tower during Paris Fashion Week, or spilling the tea on how to make thrifting turn your closet into a treasure trove of one-of-a-kind items. If anyone can tell the world about what it’s like to make it in Manhattan, it’s Caroline Vazzana. She grew up in New York and was exposed to the city’s vibrant fashion scene at a young age. She made the decision at just 14 years old to become a fashion designer. From there, she plunged herself into studying fashion during college and after a few internships in the city, found her calling in styling and fashion editorials. “Making it in Manhattan,” which has a five-star rating on Apple Podcasts, started in 2015 after Vazzana started writing her book, which was published in 2018 and goes by a similar title, “Making It in Manhattan: The Beginner’s Guide to Surviving & Thriving in the World of Fashion.”
While Manhattan’s fashion scene is the beating heart of Vazzana’s content, she’s no stranger to the industry’s hottest spots around the globe. Paris, Milan and London are some of the places you can find her during fashion week calendars. Traveling abroad, according to Vazzana, is something to treasure. For Vazzana, the true reward is when she gets to pack her community in her suitcase and take it along with her on her travels. It allows for her followers to see first-glimpse, inside looks on the next season’s trends debuted at global fashion weeks. That it starts with Vazzana on social media is a real treat, both for her and for her fans. However, New York always plays her home base. “Since I’m from New York, I’ve always loved the city and knew I wanted to be part of the fashion community here,” added Vazzana. “Every city is so different and has its own style. In New York, it’s very eclectic and anything really goes when it comes to the style which I love.” New York is also a major source of inspiration. Vazzana incorporates
From there, Vazzana’s hands only delved deeper into the Manhattan fashion scene. “About a year ago,” she explained, “I started thinking of ways I could grow my brand and connect my audience in a new and exciting way. I knew a podcast would be the perfect fit.” It’s through her expansion across the Internet that the heart of Vazzana’s fashion influence image grows. With paid partnerships on Instagram, TikTok reels and constant coverage at major fashion events to share on the podcast, Vazzana embodies the way the term “fashion blogging” has changed over the years. “There’s a lot of prep and planning behind the scenes that has to happen to make everything come together,” Vazzana said. “It’s funny because only a small percentage of my time is very glamorous at events. The majority of the time I’m alone in my closet in a fuzzy robe or pajamas editing and answering emails.” Collaborating with brands is another way Vazzana’s audience consumes stories through fashion. For Vazzana, brand partnerships involve a working relationship where she gets to flaunt her favorite pieces while cultivating awareness of the brand through her following. Some brands who have partnered with Vazzana include Longchamp, Missoni, Christian Louboutin, Ferragamo, MSGM and many others. “[It involves] creating photos or video content to share across my channels or creating content to live on their [the brands’] platforms,” shared Vazzana. “Every collaboration looks different, but I do my best to put my own personal touch on everything.”
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Photo courtesy of Vincenzo Dimino
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COVER FEATURE Photo courtesy of Alexandra Folster
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COVER FEATURE Photo courtesy of Sydney Claire
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her aesthetic into not only being a fashion influencer online, but also as an informative figure who educates fashionaholics across the Internet. Her outfits are eclectic, bold and outside-of-the-box. From sparkling Alice and Olivia shoes to banana-yellow Prada bags, Vazzana’s style turns heads when she walks down the street.
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The inspiration? “Really anything could inspire my style,” Vazzana said. It can hit her on the street, or while chatting with a new person she meets at an event or simply during a morning coffee run. “I try to take things that I personally love and that inspire me. I share them with my audience through photos, videos and now, my podcast.” Fashion is a notoriously competitive industry; there’s a reason why “The Devil Wears Prada” resonated with so many New Yorkers. Vazzana is no stranger to crazy moments in her career, having kickstarted her journey in fashion magazines (like Anne Hathaway’s character in the movie). Knowing this, Vazzana emphasized the way she’s grown in the industry by surrounding herself with supportive people. “I promise, they do exist!” she added. However, fashion blogging isn’t all glitz, glam and dress-up. Like any career, challenges pop up on the road from time to time. A lot of Vazzana’s work is done alone, which can sometimes make the daily grind feel isolating. And like many professionals, career comparison is a negative that Vazzana runs from, too. “I try not to compare my career to others,” Vazzana explained, “but it can be difficult when we’re all constantly sharing online.” Vazzana has been in the industry for a long time, and knows how to counteract impost syndrome. Connecting with her online community is how she plunges to the top. “The most rewarding aspect is getting to work for myself and my community. I love being able to inspire people to be their most colorful, confident selves and not care what others think.” While fashion influencing isn’t necessarily easy, starting is. When asked what advice she can give to aspiring fashion figures, Vazzana said, “Just start sharing! I know so many people are worried about what others might think or have the fear of judgment and so that stops them from going for it. So, my biggest advice is to stop caring what others think and just go for it. Life is too short!” What’s next for this fashion guru? In addition to growing her ever-skyrocketing, self-made brand, Vazzana hopes to continue to inspire people across the Internet and the world itself. At the heart of her fashion message is confidence, self-expression and ignoring the haters while you fill your closet with the boldest, brightest pieces that scream, “I’m me!” Sooner or later, Vazzana hopes to break into TV and stitch her name onto some design collaborations. The future, like Vazzana’s very career, is full of endless possibilities. As upcoming Spring/Summer 2024 collections drop throughout the fall and winter seasons, Vazzana tells her audiences to stay tuned as she shares how you, too, can make it in Manhattan.
“SINCE I’M FROM NEW YORK, I’VE ALWAYS LOVED THE CITY AND KNEW I WANTED TO BE PART OF THE FASHION COMMUNITY HERE.” mannpublications.com
Photo courtesy of Romina Introini
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BRIDAL FEATURE
RANCESCA MIRANDA CRAFTS COLUMBIAN FALL BRIDAL COUTURE Based in Barranquilla, Colombia, Francesca Miranda is a Latin American designer who draws inspiration from authentic craft and compelling legacies. The DNA of the brand is based on an interpretation of Miranda’s Latin American and Caribbean influence, an effortless approach to femininity and an intimate understanding of contemporary art and culture.
With love comes commitment, and a commitment to savor and honor one’s self within a beautiful love story is the inspiration behind this season’s collection. Imbued by a continued fascination for lace and an ongoing exploration of embellishments and embroideries, Francesca Miranda presents an eclectic collection of gowns that is reminiscent of everything from “Pride & Prejudice” to “Modern Love.”
Each piece is hand-made from an atelier that uses the most exquisite fabrics and artisanal craftsmanship. Francesca Miranda’s Fall/Winter 2024 Bridal Couture Collection, Cartas de Solsticio, is an ode to love that transcends, acknowledges and celebrates individuality and femininity.
With stunning details in every piece, the intricate French laces, embroidered tulles, high necks and long sleeves in this collection provide brides with both fierce individuality and fervent romance; in other words, a selection of unique letters of solstice of blissfully reciprocated love.
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Photo courtesy of Andres Oyuela (@andresoyuela)
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FEATURE
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Photosmannpublications.com courtesy of ChoCheng
CHOCHENG AND SUSTAINABLE HAUTE COUTURE By Penelope Herrera Cho Cho Cheng spearheaded ChoCheng, the luxury womenswear brand, after inheriting it from his grandmother and deciding to keep the brand alive…with his own personal stamp of sustainability, comfortability and haute couture inspired by his life in Paris, London and New York. Cheng attended Parsons the New School for Design in New York and later worked several apprenticeships in London. Sonia Rykiel in Paris was where his fi rst formal internship took place, which gave him a full-circle moment when he found ChoCheng on the runways of Paris Fashion Week 2023. ChoCheng is also the result of his exposure to the London fashion scene, where Cheng grew up. British tailoring is a very specific style; his apprenticeships across the pond led to him setting up his own workshop there. “I would say those are the most documented tailoring techniques,” he said when discussing the distinct method of British tailoring. “[It involves] very specific techniques and details you can trace throughout history.” While ChoCheng’s Paris Fashion Week debut happened in 2023, the brand has been a New York staple since 2009. Then, Cheng opened his fi rst New York location on 62 Street, which happened to be his home. There, he focused primarily on elevating ChoCheng as a couture business. Major advancements happened when Joan Rivers herself, who happened to be Cheng’s next-door neighbor at the time, suggested that Cheng take his business out of his home and to somewhere more eye-catching. From this conversation, he launched his ready-towear clothing line and low and behold, Rivers was one of his very fi rst customers. She also recommended a real estate agent, who helped give Cheng’s storefront an extreme makeover… to Madison Avenue itself. Cheng is the Avenue’s fi rst luxury Asian designer, where he continues to operate in addition to a location in a landmark building on 69th Street. While ChoCheng embraces the high fashion of London and Paris haute couture influences, it is still influenced by Cheng’s love of cruelty-free and vegan production practices. “I feel very close to the environment,” said Cheng. “I became a vegetarian when I was 12. Naturally, I would want the brand and my lifestyle to match.”
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ChoCheng uses natural fi bers and fabrics to enhance comfort,
breathability and aesthetics. Cheng replaced silk with cupro, a vegan silk made from cotton. Upcycled cashmere is also a staple element in ChoCheng’s designs; he’ll eventually phase out cashmere altogether. Cotton is Cheng’s most-used fabric. He also uses Linton, a historical fabric mill that provides Cheng’s other materials like tweed, boucle and linen. “Conserving the environment and history are things that I’m interested in and consider when I choose fabric,” he added. “I’m combining natural and vegan material with heritage.” When it comes to the ChoCheng brand, craftsmanship is important. ChoCheng likes handmade things with a rustic feel. Whimsical and fairytale vibes are what ChoCheng conjures; upcycled, vintage fabrics like pink Harris Tweed and silk charmeuse blend for a seamless, floaty style in every item that heightens a sense of romance in fashion. These fabrics are complemented by newly sourced vegan materials, including cotton boucle, cotton velvet, cotton crepe and Swarovski crystals. The latest collection showcased at Paris Fashion Week included an array of pink shades featuring signature hand-sewn petals, braids, cords, box pleats and embroidered buttons. ChoCheng credits a French movie called “The Umbrellas of Cherbourg” for its influence since its romantic cinematography inspires the already flowery nature of his designs. What’s next for ChoCheng? A full formal accessories line is on the horizon. ChoCheng eventually aims to also launch a perfume line and to continue to elevate its haute couture.
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THE FASHION MANNUSCRIPT PRESENTS:
TECHWEAR Bringing you the latest breakthroughs in software, I.T. and fashion technology. From creative solutions to insights from experts, we are the source for all things fashion tech.
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TECH
SAFE & SOUND:
5 REASONS TO SWAP EARBUDS FOR ON-EAR SPEAKERS by Merilee Kern, MBA Aside from the super swaggy aesthetics of non-invasive on-ear speakers and open-ear wireless earphones, these audio devices can also be considered safer, healthier and generally more optimal as compared to in-ear headphones or earbuds. This is due to their design for external wear coupled with how they interact with the ears and surrounding environments. Below are five reasons why.
earbuds into the ear canal can introduce harmful bacteria and lead to infections. Earbuds can also trap moisture in the ear canal, creating a warm and humid environment that further encourages bacterial growth and fungal infections. What’s more, some individuals like myself might develop allergies to the materials used in earbud tips, causing irritation, redness or severe itching inside the ears.
1. Reduced Risk of Ear Injuries and Infection In-ear headphones can be inserted deep into the ear canal, which might increase the risk of injury if not handled carefully. On-ear and open-ear speakers, however, sit on the outside of the ear or rest gently on the ear without going inside the canal, minimizing the risk of injury.
2. Hearing Protection According to the CDC, “Listening to loud noise for a long time can overwork hair cells in the ear, which can cause these cells to die. The hearing loss progresses as long as the exposure continues. Harmful effects might continue even after noise exposure has stopped. Damage to the inner ear or auditory neural system is generally permanent.”
In-ear headphones and earbuds can potentially contribute to ear infections if not used or maintained properly. Earbuds that are not cleaned regularly can accumulate dirt, sweat and bacteria over time. Inserting contaminated
In-ear headphones sit directly inside the ear canal and can potentially deliver sound at higher volumes, increasing the risk of damaging your hearing. On
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TECH the other hand, on-ear and open-ear devices like the highly advanced nwm MBE001 True Wireless On-Ear Speakers create a space barrier between the audio source and the ear canal, which can help protect your hearing.
Photo courtesy of Unsplash
3. Limited Risk of Earwax Buildup In-ear headphones can inadvertently push earwax deeper into the ear canal, potentially causing blockages or discomfort. On-ear and open-ear speakers do not have this issue, as they don’t enter the ear canal. This buildup can create a suitable environment for bacterial growth. According to the Jamaica Hospital Medical Center, “Our ears should not be clogged or obstructed for extended periods of time. Extensive wear of [in-ear] earbuds can prevent wax from exiting the ear canal and create buildups that can lead to infection.” Luckily, there are at-home products on the market like the WUSH Pro Ear Cleaner that provide a way to gently remove wax buildup and flush it away. 4. Awareness of Surroundings On-ear and open-ear speakers that are well designed, like the aforementioned nwm MBE001 design, don’t completely block out ambient sounds. This is beneficial because it allows you to remain aware of your surroundings, especially in situations like walking on busy streets, cycling or commuting, where hearing external sounds can be important for safety. Because on-ear speakers are not inserted inside the ear canal and do not block the ears, users can engage in natural conversations with people around them, even while listening to music or any other audio. They no longer have to remove the device when paying at the cash register, asking a quick question at the gym or responding to co-workers. Most importantly, users can remain alert to the sounds of approaching cars and other possible hazards—fostering potentially life-saving situational awareness. The more advanced nwm devices further employ ground-breaking “Personalized Sound Zone” technology that minimizes sound leakage to ensure the user’s audio remains completely private to others. Amid such extreme on-ear speaker innovations, the music industry is quickly taking notice. Founders of the wildly popular pop band the North Star Boys (NSB), with over 55 million followers combined on social media platforms and a reported 20 million monthly views on their syndicated Snapchat shows, are praising such open-ear speaker advancements. “I’ve always wished for headphones that don’t go directly inside my ear but also have a perfect sound that cancels out noise…and with special technology that prevents other people from listening in, even if they’re sitting right next to me,” said NSB Co-founder Sebastian Moy. 5. Supreme Comfort During Prolonged Use In-ear headphones might cause discomfort or irritation when worn for extended periods, particularly if they fit tightly in the ear canal. Conversely, on-ear and open-ear speakers distribute the weight and pressure more evenly, offering greater comfort during long listening sessions. With lightweight and ergonomically designed wireless on-ear speakers, users can avoid fatigue from extended use. Those devised with the stability of an ear hook can further reduce stress on the ear amid prolonged wear. Overall, on-ear and open-ear speakers offer several potential health and lifestyle benefits compared to in-ear listening devices. While there are distinct advantages, it’s important to note that every individual’s situation is unique. The choice of earphones should be based on personal comfort, intended use and safety considerations. Regardless of the type of earphones chosen, it’s important to listen at safe volume levels to protect your hearing over the long term.
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411 TECH
INTRODUCING YAYSAY: THE GAMIFIED SHOPPING APP REDEFINING OFFPPRICE RETAIL Yaysay is a first-of-its-kind shopping app that combines AI-driven personalization with gamification to transform the off-price shopping experience. Founded by retail industry pioneers including two of the co-founders of Casper and executives from Gilt Groupe and Stitch Fix, Yaysay aims to make off-price shopping an exciting five-minute daily habit while also offering a sustainable solution for excess inventory in the retail industry. Yaysay pioneers a new mobile shopping paradigm, tailoring the shopping experience for each user by leveraging AI to curate a personalized fashion feed and present shoppers with the perfect items at irresistible prices. Designed to bring the thrill of off-price treasure hunting online, the app draws inspiration from social media, dating apps and gaming interfaces, blending competition, luck and limited supply to provide the ultimate shopping adventure. Recent statistics reveal that 71% of Millennials regularly check social media sites multiple times a day, and half use dating apps daily, reinforcing the app’s alignment with modern consumer habits. No two shopping days are the same on Yaysay. The app boasts a constantly refreshed feed of substantial discounts on sought-after brands, offering users a new treasure hunt every day with an air of “get it or it’s gone.” Offering a premium experience and featuring only the most covetable brands, the platform breathes new life into overstock inventory, making Yaysay the ideal liquidation partner for brands that need to eliminate excess inventory while protecting their brand perception. In fact, 53% of U.S. retailers have expressed concerns about the consequences of not selling excess stock. Photo courtesy of Business Wire
PERFECT CORP. UNVEILS “YOUCAM AI PRO” APP Perfect Corp. recently launched “YouCam AI Pro,” a cutting-edge addition to its suite of acclaimed apps, which includes award-winning YouCam Makeup and YouCam Perfect. With YouCam AI Pro, users can now unlock a world of limitless creativity through the power of artificial intelligence and image generation. YouCam AI Pro introduces an incredible AI-based text-to-image feature that transcends traditional boundaries. This innovative technology allows users to effortlessly transform their wildest ideas into stunning images through just a line of text and one click. Whether you’re dreaming up picturesque landscapes, imaginative creatures or intricate designs, YouCam AI Pro can bring your concepts to life like never before. Users can now explore their wildest imaginations without the need for any artistic expertise or complex design tools. YouCam AI Pro’s AI-Powered Text-to-Image tool instantly generates images based on your textual input, turning your words into visual masterpieces. Users also have the option for these creations to be generated in up to 20 distinct artistic styles, including Van Gogh, Pop Art, Anime, Pixel Art, Cartoon and more, giving users full control over the visual aesthetic. The app also houses Perfect Corp.’s widely popular AI Magic Avatar feature that launched earlier this year and allows users to generate hundreds of fun and engaging digital avatars of themselves in styles from fairy princesses and anime angels to space explorers, cyberpunk rockstars and everything in between. Photo courtesy of Perfect Corp.
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411 TECH
ROBOTLAB HONORED WITH THE INNOVATION AWARD AT DAYTIME BEAUTY AWARDS RobotLAB, the premier robotics integrator that has delivered impactful business innovations and solutions for more than 15 years, proudly accepted “The Innovation Award” at the fifth annual Daytime Beauty Awards (DBA), founded by Michele Elyzabeth. The event, which celebrated industry leaders, scientists, doctors and celebrity beauty brands, recognized the impact of AI on the beauty, health and wellness sectors. With 10,000+ robots deployed throughout its 15-plus year history, RobotLAB was honored as a longtime trailblazer. For more than 15 years, RobotLAB has provided turnkey robotics solutions to companies of all sizes in industries including hospitals, beauty, fashion, foodservice, hospitality, banking, education, assisted living and more. RobotLAB oversees all aspects of the robotics integration process – from sales, tailored programming, onsite integration and repairs – to ensure businesses can access and understand solutions that will dramatically improve their performance.
Photo courtesy of Business Wire
PERFECT CORP. AND WALMART TO OFFER AR-POWERED MAKEUP VIRTUAL TRY-ON EXPERIENCE Perfect Corp., announced a collaboration with Walmart to launch an innovative makeup virtual try-on experience via the Walmart iOS app. The experience will allow Walmart customers to virtually try-on makeup products across the blush, lip color, eyeshadow shadow and bronzer categories and discover their perfect shade. As AI/AR technologies become more integral to deliver personalized and sustainable shopping experiences to customers in 2023, the virtual try-on experience is set to enhance the Walmart shopping journey, empowering customers to tryon multiple makeup shades in seconds through a hyper-realistic AR view. Walmart’s virtual try-on experience features Perfect Corp.’s Face AI solution, which is powered by advanced AI deep learning technology to create hyper-realistic AR-powered makeup filters for customers to tryon digitally. The experience will allow shoppers to virtually try-on more than 1,400 products from Walmart Beauty’s extensive brand assortment including Almay, Black Radiance, CoverGirl, e.l.f. Cosmetics, Maybelline, NYX Professional Makeup, Revlon, Rimmel, Neutrogena, wet n wild, The Lip Bar and more. The innovative technology is essential in the beauty retail space, delivering personalized experiences and empowering shoppers to virtually try-on dozens of shades in seconds to find their best match. The virtual try-on experience also eliminates the need for physical product samples, helping minimize product waste and reduce harmful impacts to the environment.
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Photo courtesy of Perfect Corp.
November/December 2023
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COLUMNS
HOW TO REIN IN RELATIONSHIP FEARS
by Donna Johnson-Klonsky, MBA
Can you connect Cynthia’s concerns with the corresponding categories of fear? You are correct if you guessed Relationships, Reputation, Responsibilities and Rewards. Her example illustrates that fear surrounding one professional challenge can involve all four categories of fears.
Did you know that our professional or personal fears can be grouped into four categories? Our anxieties can seem less daunting if we look at them from that perspective. The four primary categories of fears, which I named the Fearsome Foursome, are Relationships, Reputation, Responsibilities and Rewards. While I am a leading expert on the best strategies and techniques to approach, process, and master changes, let me be the first to say that the Fearsome Foursome remains personally challenging for me to walk the talk. Like you, I am a work in progress. This article will be the first in a series covering the Fearsome Foursome. First, I will provide an overview of elements linking all four fears. Next, explain and give examples of Relationship fears. Then, share how to identify the category of your dominant fear and the role acknowledgment and acceptance play. In the upcoming articles, I focus on the remaining three categories of fear: Reputation, Responsibilities and Rewards. Also, I will provide additional strategies and techniques. While the information will center around business, we will briefly consider personal fears for context. Fearsome Foursome Overview The individual categories of the four fears that make up the Fearsome Foursome do not operate in isolation. A leader named Cynthia, faced with losing a critical team member, provides an example. Many thoughts swam through her mind. How much she would miss their working together. No longer having access to their expertise could influence others’ perceptions of her business capabilities. Implementation of new services could be affected. The potential impact on her income could delay her personal goals.
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Relationship Fears Relationship fears pertain to a loss or change in connection with someone important to you. They surface when we are challenged by either a perceived or real change in the continuity or type of relationship. Sometimes, the transition can be downright scary. As a consequence, some avoid expressing their opinions and feelings. Can you remember holding back from communicating because you were concerned about its effect on a business relationship? John tolerated continual verbal disrespect from a colleague’s team member. Diana never complained when a close team member repeatedly didn’t complete their share of the work. Carrie didn’t speak up when her responsibilities shifted after her supervisor’s daughter joined the team. Why didn’t these individuals voice their concerns? Censoring ourselves to please others can erode our self-worth and self-respect. When I asked clients I was coaching why they didn’t speak up, their initial comments often were, “It isn’t that important,” or “I couldn’t find the right time.” Later, they reveal, “I feel taken advantage of,” or “I get angry with myself for saying nothing.” Although some worry about job security, frequently, apprehension stems from relationship fears. Relationship fears encompass a wide range of emotions. Changes in the type of connection, which is how we connect, can challenge us, like when parents, siblings or close friends move far away. When my daughter, her husband, and my two grandchildren moved from New York to North Carolina, I cried like a baby and was melancholy for weeks. I knew I would miss our frequent in-person visits and have to settle for more virtual ones. Fearsome Foursome Strategies: Part I The strategies introduced are not explicitly tied to a particular category of fear. Since Relationship
fears are highlighted in this article, I will reference them in this section. However, the techniques I share apply to all the types. Think of the tools as building blocks. There are many ways to arrange and utilize them. While the fears interplay with each other, the most effective way to approach them is to isolate, within a given circumstance, the particular category that is currently preeminent. The primary focus of the fear determines which category is dominant. Referring back to Cynthia, the leader faced with losing a critical team member, the concern that came up most frequently and elicited the strongest emotions was the loss that comes with many years of working closely with someone. For her, the dominant fear resided in the Relationship category. I know from personal experience that the strategy that comes next is easier said than done. After identifying the dominant fear, we must acknowledge and accept that we fear the loss of the type of connection or the relationship itself. The change process outlined in my book, “Aspects of Change,” refers to the first two stages: Stand Up To and ACCEPT. Acknowledgment means understanding that something has changed and we cannot reverse it. In contrast, acceptance refers to coming to terms with things that will be different. In conclusion, there are four categories of fears: Relationships, Reputation, Responsibilities and Rewards. Collectively, I refer to them as the Fearsome Foursome. An interplay exists between the different categories. Relationship fears pertain to a loss or change in connection with someone important to you. Identifying the dominant fear and acknowledging and accepting what it means is essential. Upcoming articles in this series will highlight the other three categories and more strategies and techniques.
Donna Johnson-Klonsky, MBA, PCC DJ Consulting Services, Inc. East Fishkill, New York 12533 djohnson@djcsfirm.com Tel: (845) 447-1037
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COLUMNS
RESUSCITATING BRANDS
By Anne Marie Soto, Retail Marketing Society
loves the brand and wants to evolve with the brand.” The fourth indication is a poorly designed product. Excessive leverage is the fifth reason brands/ retailers can land in the ICU. Appel explained:
Even the most successful brands can lose their mojo. Once that happens, some get rescued and live to fight another day, while others simply close up shop and head for liquidation. A recent Retail Marketing Society webinar explored what it takes to resuscitate a brand before it disappears. Guest speakers were Michael Appel, Managing Director of the Retail Practice at the consulting firm Getzler Henrich and Carolyn D’Angelo, Senior Managing Director, Gordon Brothers Brands and President, Laura Ashley. How do consumer brands or retailers get into trouble in the first place? The trouble begins when a brand strays from its original vision and mission. A brand can evolve but when it totally changes direction, it confuses (and loses) its customer. D’Angelo cited Bed, Bath & Beyond as a good example when it went from offering customers a full range of brands to private label goods, without acknowledging that Target already served that need in a very good way. Leadership is another indication of trouble. It can be exhibited by constant turnover in management or, as in the case of JC Penney, when a board gives a leader free rein to make radical changes without the customer research to back it up. The third indication of trouble is when the brand is trying to be everything to everybody. Says D’Angelo, “I believe both retailers and brands must have a point of view or a unique selling proposition (USP). Brands that only want to sell to the millennials are really shortsighted and missing a very large segment of the market, a segment that has a very large disposable and discretionary income. If you’re a brand that serviced them, don’t, don’t give up on that older consumer who
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“Private equity comes in, does an LBL, and puts a huge amount of leverage on the company. Retailers really have a hard time with excessive leverage because their business is not infinite, it’s not predictable from season to season. If you’ve got too much leverage and liquidity dries up, you can’t operate your business. In terms of how that gets reflected in symptoms is the company is continually missing its financial plan or its guidance to Wall Street. Vendors start requiring shorter terms or requiring COD; factors start reducing availability. These are indications that the market, lenders, vendors, etc., are weighing in on the fact that they don’t believe in the company’s strategy and future.” What are the critical steps that need to be taken for brand survival in the short term? D’Angelo identified six critical steps when a company such as Gordon Brothers Brands steps in to acquire a brand. 1. Define the mission and vision. What is the point of view and what does the brand stand for? 2. Define the distribution channel. “You have to get that straight immediately,” said D’Angelo, “because usually, brands are hovering around the ICU because they’re losing their way and they’re straying from the original point.” 3. Determine the business model. A licensing model? A vertical model? Direct to consumer distribution points? 4. Hire the right team. Hire people who will buy into and execute the strategy. 5. Remember the end consumer. This means engaging with targeted audiences through the appropriate social media. What are the steps if the potential ICU patient is a distressed company? Number one, said Appel, is liquidity. “You’ve got to make sure that you’ve got the capital you need
to fund the turnaround,” he explained. “You’ve got to figure out right away how much capital is required, where you’re going to get it, and how you can improve your liquidity, both in terms of outside capital and making use of the assets that you have, whether they’re real estate or inventory or other things. It’s a pretty tough world out there today. When a company gets into trouble, they’re not given that much time to fix themselves anymore.” Understanding the customer is next. Appel pointed out that many of the stressed/distressed companies he has worked with have done no consumer research and have no idea who their customer really is. And, like D’Angelo, he rates getting the right team in place high on the list. Appel also recommends embedding technology in the operation of the business. Years ago, implementing technology took time and staff. Today there are many options that will rapidly affect the business. Other strategies, such as buy-now-pay-later customer purchasing plans and digital testing of products can make a significant impact. Long term, what is needed for a successful rescue operation? Financial resources to execute your strategy. Time: putting a brand back on solid footing is not something that happens in 90 days. Delivering on the brand’s unique selling proposition. Recruiting, training and retaining the best possible workforce. Appel emphasized how important this is from the C-suite to the selling floor. Emerging from retail’s ICU is no easy task but, with the right prescriptions, a capable team and a bit of old-fashioned luck, resuscitation is possible.
Anne Marie Soto Retail Marketing Society retailmarketingsoci@retailmarketingsociety.org Tel: (201) 692-8087
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COLUMNS
KEY TRENDS AND IMPORTANT STEPS TO TAKE FROM HUB’S 2023 WORKFORCE ABSENCE MANAGEMENT SURVEY By Frank DeLucia, HUB International Northeast
HUB International’s “2023 Workforce Absence Management Survey” shows how the workforce absence management landscape has evolved. Here are the major trends the survey revealed and the impact on absence management policies. The need to improve recruiting and retention has affected employee benefits and workforce absence management the past two years, in some cases resulting in more liberal policies on hybrid work, paid time off (PTO) and observed holidays. HUB International’s “2023 Workforce Absence Management Survey,” which surveyed 514 employers with 50 to 1,000 employees, found that remote and hybrid work trends continue, with more companies making these options standard. These same employers are also providing additional paid holidays and PTO. The survey found that employers are implementing these changes largely to stay competitive in the ongoing battle to attract and keep top talent. And employers say they’re likely to implement more changes in absence management to improve the work environment. Notable findings from HUB’s biennial survey include the following: Working from home is no longer the exception. More than half (53%) of respondents allow remote work, mostly through hybrid work arrangements. Of those allowing hybrid
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work, 73% say remote workers are just as effective as in-office employees and workplace flexibility improves both recruiting and retention.
good barometer of how an organization measures up. If possible, identify organizations with similar goals for benchmarking.
Additional paid holidays take hold. Nearly one-quarter of employers have added holidays, compared with 14% in 2021. Worth mentioning is that 24% now have Juneteenth as a paid holiday, compared with only 5% two years earlier.
3. Remove the confusion. Ensure employees have the tools needed to understand their leave options. Providing clarity in how policies work, the benefits and the implications for employees can transform absence programs into powerful retention tools.
More PTO becomes standard. Twenty-three percent of organizations changed paid time off (PTO) programs, and of those, 56% increased paid time off days provided. Companies that increased PTO cited taking care of employees as the top reason for extending this benefit, followed by the desire to be more competitive in recruiting and retention. PPL continues to expand. More than onethird of respondents increased their paid parental leave (PPL), while 64% made no changes. FMLA and leave administration remain the same. Similar to results from the 2021 survey, 90% of employers are eligible for FMLA requirements, with 70% discontinuing group benefits at the end of the month that FMLA expires.
4. Precedents matter. Going the extra mile to assist individual employees during their leaves may be well intended, but that may require employers to extend similar considerations for all employees in order to stay compliant with local, state and federal laws. 5. Leverage data and analytics. A holistic benefits strategy encompasses everything from PTO to health and wealth benefits. Data and analytics tools like HUB’s Workforce Persona Analysis can help your organization get the most out of its absence management policies, while an approach to creating Quality Employee Experiences (QEX) through benefits will improve employee engagement.
5 steps to keep up with the findings: 1. Align policy with goals. It’s imperative that an organization’s absence management policies align with HR and business goals. Reviewing leave of absence policies to determine if they help meet goals is an essential first step in having a truly effective program. 2. Benchmarking counts. Practices of other companies — competitors or otherwise — are a
Frank DeLucia currently serves as Senior Vice President of HUB International Northeast, a leading full-service global insurance brokerage. Frank can be reached by phone at 212-338-2395 or at frank. delucia@hubinternational.com. For more information on HUB, please visit www.hubinternational. com.
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November/December 2023
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COLUMNS
INCORPORATING TECHNOLOGY INTO INTIMATES THAT FOCUS ON A FUTURE OF WELLNESS AND COMFORT
By Dora Lau, founder and president, Dora L. International evolution, skillfully balancing the need for genuine fit with added benefits such as moisture management, impeccable support and subtle shaping.
Over the past few years, we have embraced the importance of self-care as part of our overall wellness. The New Year is often synonymous with setting resolutions, and taking our wellness seriously continues to be at the top of the list. When we think about how we plan to improve ourselves in the year ahead, we look to technology to track our steps, help us meditate or plan a relaxing vacation. In intimate apparel, technological innovations in the fabrics that are the first layer that’s closest to our skin keep us supported, comfortable and feeling our best. It’s no surprise that this is the case. Our relationship to technology is a close one – especially with our bodies. The iconic headphones from decades ago and today’s wearable devices like smartwatches are prime examples of how innovations, big or small, find a way to enhance our daily experiences. We crave fabrics and manufacturing technologies in our intimate apparel that enhance our athletic performance, keep us cool in the warm weather, provide shape with comfort and offer benefits in keeping with a modern multi-tasking lifestyle. “Intimates Innovations” as a New Concept in Lingerie The concept of “Intimates Innovations” has recently emerged, which is focused on enhancing comfort, flexibility in fit and seamless applications. This technology is used to ensure a better bra fitting. Historically, bras were engineered to mold and redefine the female bust according to societal ideals. Today, the focus is on enhancing a woman’s natural form, emphasizing authenticity to make her feel like her best self. This transformation is backed by innovations in fabric technology and garment design. Contemporary best-selling bra styles are a testament to this
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Technology Being Driven By a New Consumer Mindset More and more we are witnessing that societal trends are demanding greater diversity, inclusivity and female empowerment. There is a new level of sensitivity and outreach in design and marketing based on size, age, gender and race. This sense of empowerment is impacting the intimate apparel category which we can see in the form of intimate apparel increasingly being worn as outerwear. Technology is helping to make these new designs practical in real-world situations that mesh with the lifestyles of women today. Promoting Technology for Skin Health In Intimate Apparel As we think about technology in manufacturing and particularly in intimate apparel, it’s important to note that skin health and comfort have taken center stage. This has led to the development of innovative materials and fabric applications: 1. Collagen-infused yarns: These innovative threads not only offer superior comfort but also protect and nurture the skin. 2. Antimicrobial and antibacterial fabrics: With heightened awareness of hygiene post-Covid, germ-resistant applications in intimates have gained popularity. 3. Revolutionizing Shapewear: Moving away from restrictive designs, shapewear is evolving to provide a more natural, smoothed effect courtesy of advanced bonding films with enhanced elasticity.
ing a transformation. Here are just a few of the trends that are driving the industry forward: 1. Robot-printed applications: Traditional sewn bras often come with the discomfort of irritating seams. The latest robot-printed gel glues can replace sewing, resulting in seamless, irritation-free garments. 2. Hybrid designs: A blend of traditional sewing techniques, foam pads and robot gel glue has given birth to bras offering the dual benefits of impeccable support and unmatched comfort. Beyond Wires: The Dawn of a New Comfort Era The post-pandemic era has seen a rise in the demand for lounge bras that merge style with comfort. The technology-driven alternatives to traditional underwires are leading the way: 1. Compressed foam: This material effortlessly aligns with body contours, providing lift without compromising on comfort. 2. Encased materials: Advances in this area ensure added lift without undue rigidity, ensuring that bras feel soft and gentle against the skin. 3. Gel glue designs: Acting as a sling, they offer gentle lift and shaping, eliminating the need for wires altogether. Flexible Fit: Moving with You The new-age intimates understand the body’s dynamics. With innovations in foam design and enhanced modulus fabrics, today’s lingerie effortlessly adapts to body movements. Floating inserts and other flexible features ensure that these garments move in sync with the wearer, promising unparalleled comfort.
4. Breathable Designs: Airy and light fabrics combined with high-tech bonding films ensure maximum breathability, making intimates feel like a second skin. Garment Construction: Where Tradition Meets Modernity As technology seeps into the fabric of intimates, garment construction techniques are undergo-
Dora L. International, Los Angeles 441 S. Hewitt Street Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: (855) 882-8789 info@doralinc.com
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Concierge Medicine from Mount Sinai New York. Here in The Palm Beaches.
Mount Sinai New York–Concierge Care is a membership-based medical practice that has brought the world-renowned care of the Mount Sinai Health System in New York City, here to you in The Palm Beaches. Our new concierge program offers an outstanding patient experience and access around the clock. Our members receive comprehensive primary care, cardiac and dermatology assessments, and nutritional counseling, as well as amenities you would not find in a typical medical practice, such as home visits, urgent care, coordination of specialist care, travel medicine, and much more. Members will also have access to Mount Sinai’s Hudson Yards concierge practice in New York. Most importantly, you gain access to the full resources of the Mount Sinai Health System, for all of your health care needs. This is the health care experience you have been looking for.
Learn more at mountsinaiconciergecare.org To inquire about membership, please call 561-328-7112.
Mount Sinai New York-Concierge Care
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COLUMNS
DEB’S RETAIL DISH AND DEALS: HAPPY HOLIDAYS By Debra Hazel, president and CEO, Debra Hazel Communications
the Americas, according to Commercial Observer. Sprouts Farmers Market opened its 400th store at 640 W. Cuthbert Blvd. in Haddon Township, New Jersey, the newest debut in a five-year plan to expand 10% year over year.
The year is ending with a flurry of newcomers in fashion, a few relocations and some intriguing entertainment. All About Apparel and Accessories Apparel brand Cartolina made its brick-andmortar debut with a flagship at 966 Madison Ave. GSTQ, a Dany Garcia-founded apparel brand made to magnify one’s presence, opened its latest pop-up retail experience at Rockefeller Center in January. Opening for the fall and holiday shopping seasons, GSTQ Rock Center follows the success of the brand’s two previous popups in New York City’s SoHo and Atlanta. FiveStory is moving one block north, to 1044 Madison Ave. Lovers of Schott’s leather jackets can now find them at 32 Howard Street, a relocation from 236 Elizabeth St. Nordstrom Inc. announced plans to open a new Nordstrom Rack in Bay Shore, New York at the Gardiner Manor Mall. With this new location, Nordstrom will operate 12 Nordstrom Rack stores, three Nordstrom stores and two Nordstrom Locals in New York. The store is scheduled to open in spring 2024. WWD reports that Saint Laurent has signed for a 13,000-square-foot flagship at 70-74 Gansevoort St. in the Meatpacking District. Food, Glorious Food Shake Shack is expanding to Jackson Heights, Queens in 2024 at 82-11 37th Ave. This will be Shake Shack’s 51st location in the state of New York and the fourth company-owned location in Queens. Bone broth specialist Springbone Kitchen will open its eighth location at 1155 Avenue of
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Home Sweet Home Daiso, the global retail chain offering a wide range of affordable and unique household goods, stationery, beauty and more, opened units in Rye Brook and New Rochelle, New York. Chelsea’s 444 West 25th St. will be a one-stop shop for outfitting a fine home; art dealer Larry Gagosian, interior designer Pierre Yovanovitch and AP Gallery all signed leases for the building. To Your Health Equinox will open a branch at the Domino Sugar Factory in Brooklyn in the fall of 2024. For the Tots Melissa & Doug, a top preschool brand for wooden and sustainable toys, opened its firstever retail store at The Westchester, the upscale shopping mall in White Plains, New York. As the company’s first brick-and-mortar location in its 35-year history, the store features a wide selection of the brand’s top-selling toys across categories including pretend play sets, learning toys, baby and toddler products, puzzles and arts and crafts. That’s Entertainment Looking to relieve stress? Samanea New York, the retail, entertainment and dining destination located at 1500 Old Country Rd. in Westbury, New York, has signed a lease with Smash-It Therapy and Pickleball Smash-It, a new, recreational rage room venue and indoor pickleball destination. But it isn’t just pickleball providing new entertainment options. Ping pong social club Spin opened Spin Midtown, a flagship location at 1626 Broadway. To begin, guests are transported into the underground venue following a trail of neon lights to a wall of art, and 10 ping pong tables surrounded
by inviting lounge seating and a magnetizing wrap-around bar featuring a customizable ticker screen, welcoming guests of all kinds. Around the U.S. Online Australian fashion brand Princess Polly, beloved by Gen Zers, has opened its first U.S. store at Westfield Century City in Los Angeles. Not every retailer is giving up on San Francisco. Banana Republic (whose parent, Gap Inc., is headquartered there) opened a two-level, 3,500-square-foot flagship location at 152 Geary St. After testing a pop-up shop at 9546 Brighton Way in Beverly Hills, California for its first West Coast location, Italian menswear brand Eleventy signed a 10-year lease for the site. At press time, Bloomingdales was to open its first Bloomie’s location at 2604 NE University Village St. in Seattle. True Religion announced the opening of its first new store since 2019, located in Atlanta’s Cumberland Mall. Arts and crafts retailer Michaels is coming to Delray Corner in Delray Beach, Florida with a 25,600-square-foot store, with an opening scheduled around the first quarter of 2024. Ollie’s Bargain Outlet Holdings Inc. has opened its first store in Iowa and its 500th store overall at 1660 Sycamore St., Iowa City. Iowa is now the 30th state in which it operates. Nationwide, Ollie plans to open 50 to 55 locations annually until it reaches its goal of 1,050 stores. Whatever holiday you’re celebrating, may it be happy, healthy — and profitable!
Debra Hazel Debra Hazel Communications North Las Vegas, NV Tel: (201) 618-5247
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We’re Back! Please join us for an exciting and informative program as we discuss consumer behavior and retail trends. Come network with retailers, manufacturers and service providers specializing in consumer products including: electronics, toys, accessories, food & beverage, apparel, e-commerce and more! THURSDAY, APRIL 18, 2024
E-Central Downtown Los Angeles Hotel 4:00 p.m. ‒ 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $50 each
KEYNOTE SPEAKER MARSHAL COHEN
Chief Industry Advisor, Retail Circana
MEDIA AND SPEAKER SPONSOR
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COLUMNS
MAKING IT ON THE RUNWAY: A MODEL’S INSIGHTS ON SEIZING OPPORTUNITY By Clare Nerney the designers to see you walk.” Competition at these auditions was stiff, but she knew that this was only the beginning. “The castings for the shows are last minute. The auditions are posted sometimes a week before. I had no idea if I would even walk in one show.”
Have you ever wondered what it is like to fly to Miami with the hopes of debuting in some of the biggest shows for Swim Week? Or hop on a plane from Los Angeles to New York City to solidify a spot on the runway during the biggest week in fashion? Leia Felicilda, model and co-founder of athletic wear brand, Simply Gym Wear, shared just how to do that. “Since I am not represented outside of Los Angeles, I had to do all the work on my own.” Felicilda detailed all of the work that goes on behind the scenes. “It starts in June, one month before Swim Week,” she explained. “I had to find where the open calls were going to take place, and I had to reach out to different businesses to work with once I got to Miami.” Felicilda left her mark on the fashion world this year. With a presence on social media and the launch of her gym wear brand with business partner Crystal Linares, Felicilda’s heart was set on the runway. “The auditions for Swim Week are not for the weak; you stand for hours dripping in sweat waiting for
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The hard work paid off. Felicilda walked for three designers at Swim Week: Black Tape Project, Bikini Beach Australia and Nike Swim, one of the top designers on every model’s list. “I honestly wanted to cry,” she said, reflecting on the experience this past summer. “Growing up, my mother and I were Nike girls. That’s all we would wear.” After the whirlwind experience at Swim Week, Felicilda returned to Los Angeles to regroup. Soon after, she found herself back on a plane headed to New York City for New York Fashion Week. Here, Felicilda landed five shows that included Vizcarra, Jesus De La Garsa, Baez, Bad Sisters and Lila Nikole. With these additions to her resume, Felicilda left New York to go home to LA once again…only to start preparations for LA Fashion Week. What did she learn from all of this? As a model, you can’t wait for an opportunity to fall into your lap; you have to take your career into your own hands. “You can’t wait for someone to bring you the shows,” Felicilda advised. “You have to be assertive and go out and get them.” In addition to the great career lessons Felicilda learned from her modeling experiences this year, she also tapped into her desire to inspire young
models seeking to advance themselves. Her gym wear brand embodies this desire. She wants the clothing line to bring confidence to every woman who wears it, both on and off the gym floor. Her goal is to show the next generation that it does not matter where you come from; launching your career truly begins with you and only you. “If I had waited for someone to bring the shows to me, I wouldn’t have had my debut, let alone walk for one of the largest brands in the world: Nike,” Felicilda said. What’s next for this model and entrepreneur? Felicilda plans to streamline her focus and finish up the year working on her brand. Her debut in 2023 was more than she could have imagined; now, she is eager for what 2024 has in store on and off the runway. Simply Gym Wear is far from simple, and her hope is that one day, it will have its own runway debut. One thing aspiring models should remember? Felicilda said, “Being a runway model is not about being perfect; it is about being yourself.”
Clare Nerney Screenwriter Los Angeles, CA nerney234@icloud.com Tel: (401) 330-8541
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WINTER FAVOURITES
HOLIDAY
PICKS By Serena Bhullar
Our holiday favorites are the gifts that keep on giving! Whether you’re on the hunt for the perfect present for that special someone, or feel like treating yourself for once, now is the time to prepare for the festivities ahead! Here are our top holiday picks to celebrate!
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1. Guest in Residence Everywear Cardigan: This beautiful blush cardigan is light as a feather and keeps you warm during the harsh winter. $465 | www.guestinresidence.com 2. Le Specs Outta Love in Tort: Channel your inner 90’s diva with these sunnies! These slim frames protect your eyes while complimenting your features. $65 | www. lespecs.com 3. Orseund Iris Chiffon Bustier: A timeless and extremely flattering bustier designed and stitched to perfection and would elevate any look effortlessly. $695 | www.orseundiris.com 4. Bottega Veneta Small Cassette Cross Body Bucket: Just like jeans go with everything, steer away from traditional black and get a beautiful denim bag that will be your go-to all winter! $1700 | www.bottegaveneta.com 5. Amina Johan Marienne Chain Necklace: Add this bold and vibrant accessory to your muted winter tones and watch your outfit come alive. $225 | www.aminajohan.com 6. Gente Lymphatic Drainage Effect: Reap the benefits of this miracle body lotion that not only moisturizes but helps eliminate water retention and gives a lifted effect to your skin. $34 | www.gentebeauty.com
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7. Ganni Red Wide Belt Buckle Ballerinas: Who doesn’t love a good red for the festive season? You’re bound to get compliments anywhere you go. $395 | www.ganni.com
8. Dieux x Violette Forever Eye Mask: Take care of your skin while taking care of the planet, too. These reusable eye masks give your eyes heavenly hydration. $25 | www. dieuxskin.com
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When the show’s over, the brands come home to THE NEW MART
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TRADESHOWS
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tlanta Apparel’s in-house fashion office announced its comprehensive Spring/Summer 2024 trend report ahead of its autumn market, which took place in October. The report detailed the colors, prints, must-have apparel, footwear and accessories retailers expected to see while sourcing at the market. The fashion office works with the trend forecast network, WGSN, to pull overarching trend themes and then curate the next season’s trends for Atlanta Apparel’s particular audience. “For Spring and Summer, consumers are expressing a sense of optimism by dressing up, while also prioritizing versatility, resulting in overall balanced looks,” said Morgan Ramage, fashion and events director. “Spring/Summer 2024 staple inspiration follows updated Y2K trends, tailored yet comfortable silhouettes on the body and versatile, nostalgic and vacation-ready footwear paired with statement accessories all over.” Must-have apparel items for next season play on high spirits and multi-use options, with body-highlighting shapes, mini lengths and streamlined silhouettes. Styles include spliced denim, wide-leg trousers, soft utility pants, tailored shorts, retro print swimwear, coordinating shorts and shirts; twisted accents, column style dresses and skirts; volume mini dresses, maxi dresses; tunics, t-shirt blouses; wrap skirts; miniskirts, and ruffled and pleated midi skirts. Trending Spring/Summer ’24 colors The key colors for Spring/Summer ’24 are driven by the need to balance optimism with stability. Those themes pull in balancing and uplifting brights, timeless neutrals, digitalinspired pastels and darks. A few of the season’s top colors include Apricot Crush, a wellness-inspiring color; Elemental Blue, a mid-tone blue that appeals to stability; Malachite Green, connecting trends to nature; Pink Cyclamen, a vibrant and engaging pink that translates empowerment and optimism and Timeless Taupe, a neutral, long-lasting color; and Radiant Red and Golden Cob, two colors prevalent on runways for the next season. Footwear trends reflect the desire to travel while remaining versatile and nostalgic leisurely. Styles are thick and more athletic or thinner with a minimalist approach that features shimmering, printed details to stand out, with styles including ballet flats with buckles, laces and simple designs; flat sandals; slides; heeled sandals; fisherman sandals; strappy flatforms; cocktail hour wedges; resort espadrilles; stacked platforms; embellished cowboy boots ticking toward thigh-high, stark-white designs and shiny metallics; and allterrain sneakers, adding a stylish spin to an outdoor classic. Freddy Diaz Photos courtesy of ANDMORE
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TRADESHOWS
ATLANTA APPAREL’S IN-HOUSE FASHION OFFICE ANNOUNCES EARLY SPRING/SUMMER 2024 TRENDS
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TRADE SHOWS
Photos courtesy of ANDMORE
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TRADE SHOWS
Spring/Summer 2024 Print Themes focus on handcrafted, artisanal designs for trans-seasonality, playful tropics and joyful motifs, which reflect consumer yearning to travel. Top prints use themes of surreal and playful nautical and beach scenes to create a sense of optimism and escapism; florals that take influence from Baroque patterns and highly decorative tile prints; futuristic and digital blends with nature and intense color combinations; collages and statement stripes creating uplifting and energetic simplicity; and nature-inspired prints using technical direction with geometric patterns and natural tones. Accessories for next season command attention, with dainty yet striking geometric patterns. Organic influences such as floral blooms and shell accents celebrate the Earth through fashion as well. For jewelry, accessories and bags, highlights include charm necklaces; illusion earrings; jeweled chokers; wrist stacks; unique bangles; rope belts; Y2K chain belts; belly chains; aviators; supersized frames; floral and shell jewelry; heart charms; everyday tote bags, carry-on luggage; storage accessories; resort shopper bags; crafted bucket bags; mini top handle purses; phone bags; softvolume shoulder bags; printed wide brim hats and Western hats. “As the cost of living continues to shape consumer behavior, wearability and utility are at the forefront of design and trends, with reimagined staples and added proportions,” added Ramage.
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About ANDMORE: ANDMORE, formerly International Market Centers, is an Omnichannel Wholesale Marketmaker that fuels opportunities for wholesale buyers and sellers to connect, grow and prosper through physical markets, design centers and digital channels. The company owns and operates more than 20 million square feet of premium event and showroom space, hosting live events in Atlanta, High Point, N.C., Las Vegas and New York City. By pairing face-to-face events with always-on digital tools, ANDMORE provides truly omnichannel business platforms for its global wholesale customer base. Visit ANDMORE.com for more. Atlanta Apparel: ANDMORE’s five Atlanta Apparel markets feature the latest looks in contemporary, young contemporary, women’s modern, shoes, fashion accessories and more, plus specialty categories such as children’s and plus-size at AmericasMart Atlanta. Atlanta Apparel is owned and operated by ANDMORE, formerly International Market Centers. For more information, visit Atlanta-Apparel.com. Las Vegas Apparel – ANDMORE’s West Coast fashion sourcing market – adds a curated mix of young contemporary apparel and accessories to Las Vegas Fashion Week offerings each February and August at the Expo at World Market Center Las Vegas. For more information, visit LasVegas-Apparel.com.
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Christmas Photos courtesy of Amazon Books
Whether you’re home for the holidays or spending this festive season abroad, it never hurts to decorate one’s home with some new coffee table books. Give the gift of fashion and home decor, and find your next coffee table inspiration with these titles below.
In Vogue: An Illustrated History of the World’s Most Famous Fashion Magazine by Alberto Oliva, Norberto Angeletti, Anna Wintour (Commentary) October 30, 2012
Audrey Hepburn: The Illustrated World of a Fashion Icon Hardcover by Megan Hess October 11, 2022
“In Vogue” is a fascinating look at the history of the world’s most influential magazine. The complete compendium is illustrated with hundreds of covers and archival interiors of past Vogue editions, featuring the work of some of the twentieth century’s most respected artists, cover illustrators and photographers—from Edward Steichen, Toni Frissell and Erwin Blumenfeld to Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, David Bailey, Helmut Newton, Annie Leibovitz, Mario Testino, Steven Klein, Bruce Webber and Herb Ritts. In 1909, an entrepreneurial New Yorker named Condé Nast took charge of a struggling society journal and transformed it into the most glamorous fashion magazine of the twentieth century. “In Vogue” traces the history, development and influence of this media colossus—from its beginning as a social gazette in the late nineteenth century, to the exploration of modern fashion photography and new visuals in the mid-twentieth century, to its status as the top style magazine today.
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Discover the key moments of Hepburn’s fascinating life and the iconic looks she pioneered. From “Sabrina” to “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” Audrey Hepburn is renowned for her acting skill and fashion style, but less well known is her life in Nazi-occupied Holland or her tireless dedication to helping those less fortunate than herself. Elegantly enclosed by a hardback cover and ribbon, Hess’ beautiful illustrations follow Hepburn through three distinct chapters: her early life in World War II Europe, dreaming of becoming a ballerina; her ingénue years as the rising star of Hollywood and her incredible fashion partnership with Hubert de Givenchy; and her private life beyond the silver screen, building a legacy through her humanitarian work. Audrey Hepburn is a celebration of a woman whose life was as remarkable as the clothes she wore and the movies she starred in, brought to life on the page by the expert hand of Megan Hess.
Vanity Fair 100 Years: From the Jazz Age to Our Age Hardcover by Graydon Carter October 15, 2013
Louis Vuitton: The Birth of Modern Luxury Updated Edition Hardcover by Louis Vuitton December 1, 2012
From its inception in 1913, through the Jazz Age and the Depression, to its reincarnation in the boom-boom Reagan years, to the image-saturated Information Age, Vanity Fair has presented the modern era as it has unfolded, using wit, imagination, peerless literary narrative and bold, groundbreaking imagery from the greatest photographers, artists and illustrators of the day. Edited by Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter, this sumptuous book takes a decade-by-decade look at the world as seen by the magazine, stopping to describe the incomparable editor Frank Crowninshield and the birth of the Jazz Age Vanity Fair, the magazine’s controversial rebirth in 1983, and the history of the glamorous Vanity Fair Oscar Party.
Written with full access to the company’s archives, this incredible volume demonstrates Louis Vuitton’s passion for fine design with a stunning array of archival art, product designs and cutting-edge advertising. The company is examined through the lives of its first three leaders—founder Louis (who invented the modern trunk), his son Georges and his grandson Gaston. Now with fresh information on subjects such as designs for readyto-wear clothing, shoes, jewelry and even automobiles, this revised edition includes 20 additional pages and updated material throughout the book, covering the brand’s recent history, with new text and photographs.
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Kaufman Leasing Company consists of highly qualified professionals with a thorough knowledge and understanding of the New York City office, retail and specialty-use real estate sectors.
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HOLIDAY HIGHLIGHT
HARKEN IN THE HOLIDAYS WITH MACY’S “GIFTS WE LOVE” LIST This holiday season, Macy’s customers can shop “Gifts We Love,” a curated list featuring beauty, home, toys, accessories and unique gifts for everyone on your holiday list. From fragrance sets to fi ne jewelry and toys, Macy’s offers a wide range of gifts from off-price to luxury that the entire family will love. “Gifts We Love” is now available to shop on macys.com, Macy’s mobile app and at select Macy’s stores nationwide. The “Gifts We Love” is an edited selection of amazing products featuring curated gifts, brands and trending items that are topping your lists. This time of year can be overwhelming; that’s why the Macy’s curated Holiday Gift Finder makes shopping easy and efficient. From those looking to shop for little luxuries, family style moments, to fi nding the perfect stocking stuffer, Macy’s has unique and thoughtful items the entire family will love. Little Luxuries The Gift Finder provides top-tier gifts right to your fi ngertips, eliminating the time and hassle of choosing the right present. Whether you buy a luxe gift for a loved one or prefer to treat yourself and splurge on something special, the Gift Finder has an incredible assortment of prestigious brands across categories. Shine bright this season with the Swarovski Annual Edition Ornament 2023 or the Coach Mirror Metallic Leather Handbag, and add a dash of extravagance with Macy’s beauty & fragrance sets from YSL, Armani, Valentino and more. Self-Care The holiday season is hectic. Treat yourself or someone else to a little R&R this time of year with the Kiehl’s Fresh Start Men’s Essentials Set or Sunday Riley Wake Up With Me Set. Slip into a pair of Feather Satin Pajamas and prepare to be pampered with the TONYMOLY All You Need Mask Set. Elevate your night in and check out our self-care selection at Macy’s that is bound to satisfy any spa-day enthusiast. Cozy Up The holidays are the ultimate time to gather with the ones you love. It’s that time for snuggle season with luxe blankets, cold weather accessories, festive PJs and holiday scents. Stay bundled up at home this winter with a Hotel Collection Knit Throw or lounge around in Ugg Ascot Slippers. Get the family together with a Jiggy 800-Piece Decorative Artwork Puzzle or share a piece of Frango Chocolates or two by the fi reside. No matter where you are, Macy’s has the best selection of items to create warm and cozy vibes in every atmosphere. The Tot List Macy’s and Toys“R”Us® has Geoffrey’s Hot Toy List for 2023 to make every gift giver the star of the holidays by offering top toys for every age and interest. The Gift Finder provides customized online guides to get the kids in your life exactly what they want. Make it a year they’ll remember forever with the Indiana Jones LEGO Set or the Hot Wheels City Ultimate Playset. Bring home a piece of the parade with the super soft Snoopy Beagle Squishmallow or add one-of-a-kind 2023 Holiday Barbie to the collection. With plenty of awesome options to choose from, Macy’s has the top holiday wish list items guaranteed to unwrap endless smiles.
Photos courtesy of Macy’s on Business Wire
SOCIAL SOIREE
SOCIAL SAFARI: BY R. COURI HAY
FIT Couture Council Luncheon
Maria Sharapova, Gabriela Hearst. Photo by PMC
Gabriela Hearst, the creative director of her eponymous fashion brand, and Chloé received the Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion. Past recipients of the award include Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Karl Lagerfeld and Christian Louboutin. The award was presented by chef Daniel Humm and tennis superstar Maria Sharapova, who said, “Gabriela represents so many women around the world. I think we got along from the very beginning because she trains like an athlete.” Dr. Valerie Steele and Dr. Joyce F. Brown welcomed Martha Stewart, Candace Bushnell, Audrey Gruss, Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, Yaz Hernandez, Jean Shafi roff, Kara Ross, Bethann Hardison, Julie Macklowe, Fern Mallis, Liz Peek, Hal Rubenstein, Ramona Singer, NY assembly member Rebecca Seawright, Ali Wentworth and Nicole Miller. The benefit was co-chaired by Lara Meiland-Shaw and Melissa Mafrige Mithoff. Presented by Nordstrom, the event raised funds for The Museum at FIT, New York’s only museum dedicated exclusively to the art of fashion.
First Ladies Lunch Fashion 4 Development Naomi Campbell, Victoria Beckham and Francine LeFrak are among the previous honorees at Fashion 4 Development’s (F4D) First Lady Luncheon, which supports the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. South African designer Thebe Magugu presented his collection and received the Franca Sozzani Award, named after the late Italian Vogue editor. The CEO of Hugo Boss, Daniel Grieder, was also honored. New York State Assemblywoman Rebecca Seawright presented Jean Shafi roff with the International Philanthropy Award. The luncheon, celebrating its eleventh year, was co-hosted by Princess Corrina zu Sayn-Wittgenstein of Denmark and Germany and has also welcomed Queen Rania of Jordan and Crown Princess Mette-Marit of Norway over the years. This year, designer June Ambrose, who has dressed both Jay-Z and Missy Elliott, Twin Peaks star Amy Shiels, philanthropist Laine Siklos, hat designer Rachel Trevor, couturier Stewart Parvin Dr. Ines Hernandez, Chaz Dean, fashion influencer Sofie Mahlkvist and Daniel Stock. The late Senator Frank Lautenberg’s widow, Laine Siklos artist and photographer Bonnie Lautenberg, were among Photo by PMC the guests who enjoyed the beloved queen’s favorite bread-and-butter pudding whipped up by her personal chef, Anton Mosimann. The previous evening, Dr. Ramon Tallaj, the founder of SOMOS Community Care, was awarded with the Public Health and Community Service Human Kind Award. Mayor Eric Adams spoke and congratulated his friend Dr. Tallaj for his devotion to the city’s one million citizens he helps every year. fashion4development.com
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Eric Adams, Evie Evangelou Photo by PMC
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SOCIAL SOIREE
Consuelo Vanderbilt Latin Ignition at The Guggenheim Museum
Consuelo Vanderbilt-Costin, Emilio Estefan Photo by BFA
Grammy winning producer Emilio Estefan, the husband of Gloria Estefan, and Consuelo Vanderbilt’s groundbreaking show, “Latin Ignition – The Magic of Art,” was held at the Guggenheim Museum. The edgy event was held in collaboration with Vanderbilt’s trailblazing social network, SohoMuse, which enables creatives to expand their networks, source top talent and collaborate with other creatives. The show highlighted Latino artisans, including designers Alvin Valley, Laura Garcia, Nabys Vielman and César Galindo. Since its inception, SohoMuse has supported the global community of artists by presenting experiential evenings, online master classes as well as symposiums, which showcase the multiple verticals of creativity and topical issues of today’s world. The platform also offers educational programs to nurture and mentor young talent, offering a wide variety of internships and job opportunities. In the mix was singer Natasha Bedingfield, DJ Hex Hector, Downtown Julie Brown, “Twin Peaks” star Amy Shiels, philanthropist Laine Siklos, fashion influencer and trend columnist Sofie Mählkvist, photographer and writer Nadja Sayej and Los Rabanes. Sohomuse.com
Carlton Fine Arts
Nadja Sayej Photo by PMC
A 100K painting by Marc Chagall was the target of a smash-and-grab gallery caper on Madison Avenue on the Jewish high holiday Yom Kippur, while the gallery was closed all day. The business’s owner, Charles Saffati, is offering a five-figure, no-questions-asked reward for the return of the unique art piece called “Eve,” which features two women embracing. Chagall has two large murals with the same theme hanging permanently in the Grand Hall at the Metropolitan Opera House. “The robbers must have been pretty smart enough to know that we would be closed for the holiday,” noted Saffati. The gallerist also noted, “This piece will be impossible to resell as it’s instantly recognizable like the ‘Mona Lisa.’” The gallery’s next opening is for artist and photographer Bonnie Lautenberg, the widow of former Senator Frank Lautenberg, whose show features photos of stars including Elizabeth Taylor, Elvis Presley, Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn alongside iconic works of art by Keith Haring and Roy Lichtenstein. carltonfa.com
Sofie Mahlkvist, Dr. Ariel Ostad Photo by PMC
Morris Saffati, Charles Saffati Photo by PMC
CULTURE COUTURE
Wethersfield Garden Lunch By Michèle Gerber Klein
Photos courtesy of Patrick McMullan
Nested in 1,000 acres of rolling hills in New York State’s verdant countryside, Wethersfield Estate and Garden is a welcome retreat for visitors, visionaries and artists alike. Its annual garden party honored Barbara Tober this year and elegantly celebrated the passage of summer to fall.
Julie Dale, Michèle Gerber Klein
David Stack, Kathleen Augustine
Carolyne Roehm, Cece Cord
Fernanda Kellogg and Kirk Henckel
Dorsey Waxter, Richard Armstrong
Tara Shafer, Barbara Tober, April Gow
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WOMEN
SOUTHEAST FASHION FOCUS
TO WATCH - PART 2 By Shanna Forrestall, Founder, Chattanooga Fashion Expo
Andrea Mona Bowman
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SOUTHEAST FASHION FOCUS Laura Joyner, Lo Design Art Chattanooga, Tennessee Joyner is a hairdresser-turned-artist who paints custom designs on clothing, accessories and home decor. She is known for “wow” pieces that take a predictable style and flip it on its head. She debuted her first full line of painted clothing and accessories at last year’s Chattanooga Fashion Expo’s main and closing runway shows. Joyner’s plans for the future are to continue to develop her creative passion into a recognized and profitable business with an online portfolio that displays the endless range of her fashion-oriented passions. IG: @lo.design.art
Laura Joyner with her custom painted hangbag
Part Two continues to highlight key women in the Southeast who are delivering fresh ideas to beauty and fashion. Meet the ladies below. Andrea Mona Bowman, Mona B Productions Houston, Texas Andrea “Mona” Bowman is an Emmy-nominated film and TV hairstylist and a native of Shreveport, Louisiana. Bowman has been innovating the hair industry for 25 years, with 16 years of work in the film and TV industry. In addition to hair, she launched a personal production company called Mona B Productions as another tool to assist in her work of empowering others. As a woman in two notoriously competitive industries—beauty and television—Bowman has faced her share of obstacles. The biggest “was being taken seriously in an industry that is male-dominated.” Because of Bowman’s personal career struggles, she has worked hard to prove herself and be taken seriously and now creates opportunities for others to thrive in the industry. Today, she reaches online and in-person classes to help connect women hairstylists to the film and TV industry. Currently, Bowman is developing two reality-based TV shows to launch her hair academy and to start her mobile “movie makeover” business for weddings/special events and photo shoots. IG: @andreamonab
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Petrissa Carter & Morrello Spears Montgomery, Alabama & Savannah, Georgia Petrissa Carter and Morrello Spears are a mother/daughter duo with individual fashion lines. Carter is the creative designer and CEO of Too Handsome Too Cute Designs, Inc., a brand that creates one-of-a-kind bow ties, neckties, tie accessories and custom clothing designs for children and adults. Carter motivates customers to exude self-love and self-expression by accessorizing their style with new options. Her goals for the immediate future are to rebrand to include additional clothing and accessories for adults and to have a brand that speaks to her full spectrum of creativity. IG:@2handsome2cute Morrello Spears founded Morrello and Co., a brand that cultivates custom luxury fashion. Like her mother, Spears is no stranger to obstacles, as she’s been juggling a fashion brand, her ministry and her teaching career all at once. While just 20 years old, Spears has achieved much and has faced her share of obstacles in a competitive industry. Brand partnerships and networking events are the biggest ways Spears continues to grow her brand and create opportunities for her business. This includes showcasing her current designs at the Chattanooga Fashion Expo 2023 (CFE), which will blend her love of dance and fashion on the runway. IG:iam_morrello Vicky Doganis Photo by David Tedder
Lo Design on the CFE Runway Photo by David Tedder
November/December 2023
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HOLIDAY HIGHLIGHT
LEGEND: FR AGR ANCING THE STETSON MA N Stetson Legend gives the gift of fragrance this holiday season. Launched under Scent Beauty, Inc., Legend delivers a new luxury fragrance to target the next generation of the Stetson man. A modern, elevated expression of the brand’s iconic Western heritage, Stetson Legend embodies the same quality and sophistication that define its iconic hats, boots, apparel and accessories. At a higher concentration than a classic cologne, Stetson Legend is crafted with contemporary notes of upcycled cedarwood, vetiver and wild desert sage, and is designed to resonate with a modern consumer seeking a premium fragrance that combines the spirit of the great outdoors with the sophistication of leather and woody notes. You may recognize Stetson’s brand ambassador Luke Grimes, who plays Kayce Dutton in the hit Paramount series “Yellowstone.” “I’m honored to carry on my journey with Stetson and introduce Legend—a scent for the next generation of men who work hard and know how to clean up nicely when the situation calls for it,” said Grimes. “It’s fresh yet still rugged, like the gentlemen it is intended for.” Grimes’ passion for fashion, music and the American West seamlessly blends with the values of the Stetson brand. “We are thrilled to deepen our partnership with Stetson, a style leader in the American market,” says Steve Mormoris, CEO of Scent Beauty, Inc. “With Stetson Legend, we are entering the market with a luxury fragrance that embodies a rugged sophistication, powered by a commitment to authenticity and craftsmanship, the perfect territory for the younger consumer.” Since 1865, Stetson has been equally at home under the open skies of the American West and in the capitals of the world, and the all-new Legend scent artfully encapsulates this duality of ruggedness and sophistication, with rare citrus notes, spices, striking aromatics and textural wood notes. “I created this scent with a modern nomad in mind. This is a scent that’s about wanderlust, being curious and a life well-lived,” said Ilias Ermenidis, principal perfumer at Firmenich and olfactory architect of Stetson Legend. “I wanted to combine textures and notes that exude a sense of rebellion, mystery and liberation, a fragrance to be worn with a sleek tuxedo, a dress shirt, cowboy boots and jeans.” Stetson Legend makes the perfect stocking stuffer and fragrances this holiday season with the rugged sophistication of what it means to be a Stetson man. The fragrance can be found on Amazon, Meijer, Stetson.com and ScentBeauty.com.
Photo courtesy of Unsplash
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HOLIDAY HIGHLIGHT Photo courtesy of Business Wire
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Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market
Join us for the next global trade event showcasing the latest fashion-forward apparel and accessories.
JANUARY 16 - 19, 2024
Curating the best brands in the best place. dallasmarketcenter.com / @dallasmarket 92 | FM November/December 2023
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LAST LOOK
CARINGKIND BRINGS CHARITY AND COMMUNITY TO BY LAURIE MELCHIONNE FASHION Photo courtesy of CaringKind
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LAST LOOK CaringKind provides caregiving, research and fundraising to the Alzheimer’s community, and provides a counteracting voice to stigmas surrounding the disease. For years, CaringKind has integrated its mission with the community and took its good cause to the fashion industry to blend haute couture and lend a helping hand to those who need it the most. Eleanora Tornatore, CEO of CaringKind, gave Fashion Mannuscript a behind-the-scenes look at the company just in time for National Caregiver’s Month throughout November. What drew you to CaringKind and how long have you been involved? I was born in Italy and came to this country when I was six years old. I have had the pleasure of returning to Italy and other countries and witnessing how elders are treated and viewed in society. In other countries, elders are respected and typically honored as the head of the household. In this country, aging is viewed very differently. So, early in high school, I knew this would be my passion and mission in my career. Furthermore, as I started my career in the aging field more people were being diagnosed with Alzheimer’s Disease. Today nearly eight million Americans are living with this very difficult and costly disease. After graduating from college, I trained as a specialist in aging and dementia at CaringKind, formally known as the Alzheimer’s Association of New York City, working as a research associate for two years on a New York State Department of Health grant on culture change in nursing homes and assisted living residences. I credit my knowledge and expertise to the training I received at CaringKind, “Without the foundation of learning I gained almost 25 years ago at CaringKind, I would not have become an expert in aging and Alzheimer’s disease in long-term care.” How does CaringKind contribute to Alzheimer’s and dementia research? CaringKind is a fantastic organization dedicated to helping those affected by Alzheimer’s disease and related dementia. The mission of CaringKind is to create, deliver and promote comprehensive and compassionate care and support services for individuals and families affected by Alzheimer’s disease and related
dementias and to eliminate Alzheimer’s disease through the advancement of research. Advancing mission through engagement in research initiatives. In what ways does CaringKind support families? More than six million Americans are currently grappling with Alzheimer’s Disease, and by 2025, this number is projected to soar to 13 million. Regrettably, we have yet to make substantial progress in dismantling the stigma surrounding this debilitating condition. Nevertheless, we are actively collaborating with a group of remarkable “young ambassadors” who either have Alzheimer’s in their family or are coping with the early stages of the disease. Together, they are championing a social platform dedicated to “reducing stigma.” These exceptional young individuals, alongside those living with Alzheimer’s disease (PWD), are stepping beyond conventional boundaries. They are courageously sharing their personal narratives, rather than concealing themselves behind a diagnosis. Instead, they are embracing their symptoms and dedicating themselves to educating their peers, particularly those who have recently received a diagnosis. One notable example of this commitment to change comes from a former member of a support group at CaringKind. At the age of 88, he made the extraordinary decision to run the NYC marathon. His motivation extends far beyond personal achievement; he is using this opportunity to raise funds for our organization. This act of kindness not only supports our cause but also serves as a powerful testament to the resilience of the human spirit. It’s a poignant reminder that regardless of age and the myriad challenges life may throw our way, there is always the potential to transform pain into passion. This individual’s journey is especially poignant, as he recently lost his wife to Alzheimer’s Disease, further fueling his commitment to make a difference. On October 22 at Central Park’s Naumburg Bandshell, CaringKind hosted its 35th annual Alzheimer’s walk. The purpose of the Walk raised awareness around the importance of caregiving support and raised funds for the myriad programs offered through CaringKind to support caregivers and their families.
CaringKind consistently engages in collaborative efforts with individuals from the fashion industry. To mark National Caregivers Appreciation Day, the renowned New York fashion designer, Frederick Anderson, graciously hosted an event dedicated to celebrating CaringKind’s invaluable support for Alzheimer’s caregivers. During this occasion, Frederick Anderson also treated attendees to a captivating fashion show. Furthermore, the esteemed fashion designer Anne Fontaine honored us with her presence at our Gala and generously made contributions to our auction, further exemplifying the strong bond between CaringKind and the fashion community. When did CaringKind first decide to blend its medical research and funding with the fashion industry? How? In 2023 we decided to provide a luncheon to honor caregivers and realized that one day we can provide beauty, fun and joy to someone who almost never does anything fun for themselves in a caregiving role. We created a platform to bring fashion icons to help raise awareness by blending high fashion and raising funds. What benefits did CaringKind see when it first began its relationship with the fashion industry? We very quickly realized that no matter what industry you are in, this disease affects all people and all cultures. What kind of fashion events is CaringKind involved with? We have several planned for 23/24 one with Anne Fontaine on November 30, location to be announced and more planned with other fashion designers in this same fashion. We are opening nominations soon to nominate a caregiver, and a few will receive lovely care packages awarded in November. CaringKind will host another Fashion Show in November. Stay tuned to find out more information! Go to https://www.caringkindnyc. org/ and follow me on Instagram @eleonoratornatore
What is CaringKind’s relationship with the fashion industry?
CARINGKIND
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BRINGS CHARITY AND COMMUNITY TO
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EVER WONDER WHERE THE PEOPLE WITH ALL THE ANSWERS GET ALL THE ANSWERS?
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