The Albanian Alps Experience eBooklet by marionkatrina

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ALBANIAN ALPS Experience BOOKLET$

The ALBANIAN ALPS Experience Booklet $ A$warm$welcome$to$the$Untravelled$Paths$Albanian$Alps$ Experience$Booklet$on$behalf$of$all$the$team!$We$do$hope$ you’re$excited$about$your$upcoming$adventure$to$the$ untouched$wilderness$of$Albania$and$we’re$sure$you’ll$find$the$ material$in$this$pack$both$useful$and$informative$in$preparation$ of$your$trip$as$well$as$during$your$visit$with$us.$ $ If$you’ve$not$yet$touched$down$on$Albanian$soil,$you’ll$probably$ want$to$refer$to$the$Basics$section$of$the$guide$as$this$will$brief$ you$on$the$essentials$for$visiting,$including$information$on$ additional$activities$and$extras,$advice$on$changing$money,$what$ sort$of$weather$to$expect$and$insider$tips$and$hints.$ $ For$those$that$have$already$joined$us$off$the$beaten$track,$you’ll$ find$recommendations$specific$to$each$destination$on$your$trip,$ including$information$about$what$to$see,$where$to$eat$and$ drink.$We’ve$also$included$a$section$on$useful$Albanian$words$ and$phrases$to$bridge$that$language$barrier.$ $ Travel$safe$and$travel$fun!$ $ The$UTP$Team$

$ $ www.untravelledpaths.com$$ !

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The Basics >

CONTENTS

Fast!Facts!(4M5)! Cash!&!Currency!(6M9) Weather!&!Climate!(10M11)$ Preparation!&!Packing!(12M13)$ Food!&!Drink!(14M17) Health!&!Safety!(18M21) !

THE GUIDE > Albania!(22M23)$ Shkodra!(24M35)$ Valbona!(36M53)! Theth!(54M67)$ Kolasin!(68M77)$ $

THE REST > Language!(78M81)$ Tips!&!Tricks!(82M85)$ Did!You!Know?!(86M89)$ With!Thanks!(90M91)$ Trip!Discounts!(92M93)$

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FAST FACTS $

Fast Facts ! $ Country:$$ $ $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$ $$$$ $$Albania$ Capital:$ $$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$Tirana$ Time$Difference:$ $ $ $ $ !!!GMT!+1!hour$ Area:$$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $$$$$$$$$11,100!sq.!miles$ Population:$$$$ $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$3,020,209! $ Language:$ $ $ $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$Albanian$ Ethnicity:$$ $$$$$$Albanian!83%,!Greek!1%,!Other!16%$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(incl.!Macedonian,!Montenegrin!and!Egyptian)! Religion:$$ $ $$$$$Muslim!(57%),!Roman!Catholic!(10%)$$ !!!!!!!!!!!!Orthodox!(7%)! $ Dialling$Code:$ $ $ $ $ $ $$$$$$$+355$ Emergency$Number:$ $ !!!!!!!!112!(no!code!required)! Electricity:$!!!!!!!!!!!220!volts;!a!standard!continental!adapter$ $ Currency:$ $ $ $ $ $ !!!!!!!!!!!Lek!(ALL)$ Exchange$Rate:$ $ $ $ !!!ÂŁ1!=!around!190! lek! ! ! $

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THE BASICS Cash$&$Currency$

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CASH & CURRENCY ! Currency$>$ The$Albanian$currency$is$the$lek$(plural$lekë)$with$banknotes$coming$ in$denominations$of$200,$500,$1000,$2000$and$5000$lek.$Coins$come$ in$various$amounts$including$5,$10,$20,$50$and$100$lek$pieces,$which$ can$be$useful$to$keep$handy$for$the$odd$coffee$or$small$tips.$While$ Albanians$obviously$accept$and$quote$payment$in$their$local$ currency,$it$is$still$possible$and$quite$common$to$pay$using$Euros$ instead.$Remember$also$that$you’ll$be$spending$one$night$in$ Montenegro$which$uses$the$euro$so$it$is$a$good$idea$to$have$the$ currency$on$you.$Of$course,$using$the$local$currency$(lek)$will$offer$ better$value$than$using$euros$but$you’ll$only$be$able$to$get$hold$of$ the$currency$when$you’re$in$Albania.$ $ Currency!Exchange!>$ There$are$a$few$options$when$it$comes$to$getting$hold$of$the$local$ currency$1.$Get$it$locally:$The$easiest$and$only$option$to$get$lek$is$to$ head$to$a$cash$machine$once$you$arrive$in$Albania$to$withdraw$ funds.$It$should$be$quick$and$convenient$to$get$hold$of$your$holiday$ cash$just$take$note$of$the$advice$below.$2.$Get$it$at$home:$If$you’re$ keen$on$using$euros$and$are$set$on$getting$your$money$organised$ before$you$travel,$head$to$an$exchange$bureau$in$the$UK$when$the$ euro$is$readily$available.$3.$Get$it$online:$You$can$also$purchase$euros$ online$and$collect$it$from$your$local$post$office$or$even$have$it$ delivered$straight$to$your$door.$Ordering$currency$online$with$the$ Post$Office$is$commission$free$and$available$for$next$day$delivery.$ Obviously$the$more$you$buy$the$better$rate$you’ll$receive.$If$you$ choose$to$withdraw$lek$then$make$sure$you$spend$all$your$cash$prior$ to$your$departure$as$it$is$extremely$difficult$to$convert$it$outside$of$ Albania.$$

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ATMs!(Bancomat)!>! ATMs$can$be$found$in$all$major$Albanian$towns$including$Shkodra$and$ dispense$cash$in$either$the$local$currency$or$in$Euros.$If$you’re$keen$to$ pay$in$lek,$make$sure$you$withdraw$sufficient$funds$to$cover$your$ entire$stay$in$Albanian$when$you$arrive$in$Shkodra$as$this$will$be$the$ only$access$you’ll$have$to$a$cash$machine$in$Albania.$If$you’d$prefer$to$ use$euros$you$can$either$withdraw$from$an$ATM$in$Podgorica$or$ Shkodra.$There$is$also$an$ATM$in$Kolasin$for$those$who$want$to$get$ hold$of$euros$for$the$last$night$in$Montenegro.$When$withdrawing$ money$from$a$cash$machine$you’ll$be$offered$two$exchange$rates,$one$ from$the$local$bank$and$another$from$your$UK$bank.$Make$sure$you$ opt$to$take$you$UK$bank’s$exchange$rate$as$it$will$be$substantially$ better$value.$Please$also$note$that$most$cash$machines$charge$ approximately$£1.50$per$withdrawal$so$use$them$sparingly.$If$you’re$ keen$to$avoid$being$charged,$a$new$bank$in$London$called$Metro$Bank$ offers$accounts$and$cards$that$are$free$to$use$abroad$both$for$cash$ withdrawals$at$ATMs$and$when$paying$on$card$machines.$ATMs$are$ commonly$known$under$the$Italian$name$of$a$“Bancomat.$! ! Credit/Debit!Cards!>$ While$major$credit$and$debit$cards$(Visa$and$Mastercard)$are$accepted$ throughout$Albania$and$Montenegro's$main$towns,$smaller$ towns,$rural$areas$and$villages$in$the$mountains$will$only$accept$ payment$in$cash$(lek$or$euros)$so$do$not$rely$on$using$your$card.$The$ only$occasion$you’re$likely$to$use$your$card$will$be$to$withdraw$cash$ from$the$ATMs$in$Shkodra,$Kolasin$and$Podgorica.$However$it$is$still$ advisable$to$inform$your$bank$that$you’re$travelling$abroad$in$order$to$ avoid$the$frustration$of$having$your$card$blocked.$$ ! Currency!Card!>$ For$those$who'd$prefer$to$do$without$the$hassle$of$changing$currency$ or$dealing$with$bank$charges,$we've$teamed$up$with$Caxton$FX$to$offer$ you$the$benefits$of$using$their$currency$cards$which$guarantee$the$ best$exchange$rates$along$with$the$security$of$plastic.$Once$you’ve$ 08!

loaded$it$up$online$you$can$start$using$it$on$your$travels$to$withdraw$ cash$from$ATMs$without$the$usual$charges.$As$a$VISA$card$you’ll$also$ have$no$problems$using$it$in$restaurants,$bars$and$cafes.$You$can$even$ keep$the$card$after$your$trip$and$use$it$when$you're$next$abroad!$To$ learn$more$and$sign$up$for$your$card$simply$head$over$to$ www.carltonfx.com$ $ Budget$>$ As$mentioned$previously,$as$soon$as$you$venture$away$from$Albania’s$ major$citiies$and$into$more$rural$areas$you$should$absolutely$rely$on$ carrying$cash$with$you.$Expenses$will$be$marginal$so$a$little$goes$a$long$ way$but$in$order$to$give$you$some$direction$on$how$much$spending$ money$to$budget$for$your$trip$to$Albania,$we$thought$it$would$be$a$ good$idea$to$offer$some$guidelines$in$terms$of$costs.$As$a$general$rule,$ you’ll$be$able$to$have$a$good$lunch$for$around$£4$a$head$and$will$pay$ around$£8$a$head$for$a$nice$evening$meal.$We$reckon$around$£100$for$ lunch,$drinks$and$snacks$for$two$people$is$plenty$for$the$week$excluding$ any$activities$you$may$want$to$sign$up$for.$Please$note$that$these$are$ rough$estimates$and$you$can$always$choose$to$spend$more$or$less$ depending$on$your$budget$and$preferences.$ $ General!Costs!>$ The$prices$below$for$general$items$and$sundries$should$give$you$a$ better$idea$of$costs$in$Albania.$Please$note$these$are$averages.!Bottle! of!Water:$30p!Pint!of!Beer:$around$£1$Cup!of!Coffee:$50p$Pack!of! Cigarettes:$less$than$£1$Shot!of!Raki:$as$little$as$20p$ $ Tipping$>$ Tipping$in$Albania$is$by$no$means$compulsory,$however$it$is$polite$to$tip$ in$restaurants$and$cafés$by$about$5$to$10%$or$leaving$your$change$on$ the$table.$If$the$service$has$been$poor$please$don’t$feel$obligated$to$ leave$a$tip.$$

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THE BASICS Weather$&$Climate$

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WEATHER & CLIMATE $ Albania’s!Climate>$ With$increasingly$long$summers$and$winters,$the$climate$in$Albania$ is$rather$extreme$and$plays$host$to$some$scorching$months$as$well$ as$a$period$of$severe$cold$and$snow$through$the$winter$months.$ Spring,$summer$and$all$the$way$up$to$early$autumn,$however$offer$ beautiful$weather$with$warm$sunny$days$and$cool$evenings$along$ with$a$wider$range$of$local$village$activities$that$vary$slightly$ according$to$the$season.$$ $ Spring!Weather!(April!&!May)!>$ $Travelling$to$Albania$Alps$in$spring$mean$mild$temperatures$–$ perfect$for$hiking!$Springtime$also$means$that$the$meadows$and$hills$ burst$into$life$with$colourful$wildflowers$and$other$flora$and$fauna.$ While$April$can$bring$a$fair$amount$of$rain,$May$tends$to$be$drier$ and$warmer$with$the$chance$of$the$odd$thunderstorm$here$and$ there.$ $ Summer!Weather!(June,!July!&!August)!>$ Expect$warm$days$and$clear$blue$skies$in$the$peak$summer$months.$ In$the$mountains$you’re$likely$to$experience$cool$evenings$but$ elsewhere$temperatures$can$soar$to$over$30$degrees$so$it’s$best$to$ come$prepared$layers$to$accommodate$any$change$in$climate.$ $ Autumn!Weather!(September)!>$ September$brings$with$it$slightly$fresher$temperatures$and$a$certain$ sense$of$tranquility$as$the$rush$to$get$the$hay$in$from$the$fields$is$ usually$over$by$this$point.$You’ll$still$have$warm$and$very$pleasant$ days$with$cooler$evenings.$$ $

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THE BASICS Preparation$&$Packing$

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PREPARATION & PACKING $ Clothing!>! As$you’ll$be$spending$your$time$in$Albania’s$beautiful$mountains$and$ national$parks$you’ll$need$to$bring$clothing$appropriate$for$changing$ weather$conditions,$which$can$be$unpredictable$in$the$mountains.$ Layers$are$an$excellent$option$as$they’ll$allow$you$to$warm$up$and$ cool$down$when$necessary.$A$warm$fleece$or$hooded$jumper$will$ also$come$in$handy$for$the$evenings$when$the$temperatures$drop$ significantly,$and$lightweight$waterproof$will$be$godsend$if$the$ heavens$decide$to$open$during$one$of$your$trekking$excursions$and$ will$protect$you$against$the$wind$as$well$as$the$rain.$$ $ Footwear!>! The$correct$footwear$is$essential$as$you’ll$be$out$and$about$on$your$ feet$a$lot$during$the$trip.!Wear$shoes$that$will$be$comfortable$for$ walking$like$a$sturdy$pair$of$trainers$or$some$walking$boots$M$the$ mountains$can$get$quite$slippery$if$it’s$been$raining.$It’s$also$ advisable$to$bring$a$pair$of$flipMflops$or$sandals.$ $ Essentials!>! Aside$from$clothing$and$footwear$mentioned$above$you$might$also$ want$to$bring$sun$cream$and$sunglasses,$a$small$backback$for$ excursions$and$a$camera.$Oh$and$a$flashlight$or$torch$will$come$in$ handy$for$power$cuts$and/or$walking$anywhere$in$the$dark.$ $

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THE BASICS Food$&$Drink$

FOOD & DRINK ! Albanian!Hospitality!>$ Albanians$are$famous$for$their$hospitality.$As$soon$as$you$take$the$ mantle$as$guest$you$can$be$sure$that$you’ll$be$treated$like$royalty$for$ as$long$as$you$choose$to$stay$with$a$local.$They’ll$offer$you$the$best$ food$and$drink$they$have$available$and$will$move$heaven$and$earth$ to$ensure$that$you’re$as$happy$and$comfortable$as$ possible.$Hospitality$is$second$nature$to$an$Albanian,$there$are$even$ laws$about$it$in$the$Kanun,$their$ancient$code$of$conduct.$$ $ Influences$>$ Fertile$climate,$nearness$to$the$sea$and$cooperation$with$the$ neighboring$countries$have$all$had$a$bearing$on$the$diversity$ of$Albanian$cuisine$which$has$been$influenced$by$the$Byzantines,$ Venetians$and$Arabs$over$the$centuries.$Due$to$its$proximity$with$ Italy,$the$southern$part$of$the$country$particularly$along$the$coast$ has$a$distinctly$Italian$flavour$and$typically$enjoys$a$ more$MediterraneanMstyle$cuisine$with$plenty$of$fresh$seafood$on$ the$menu.$The$northern$regions,$on$the$other$hand,$bear$a$strong$ Turkish$influence,$like$the$rest$of$the$Balkans,$from$the$400$years$of$ Ottoman$rule,$evident$in$traditional$dishes$like$byrek$and$baklava.$$ $ Traditional!Albanian!Fare!>! The$basic$components$of$almost$all$traditional$Albanian$dishes$are$ meat$and$vegetables,$and$yoghurt$or$curd$cheese$is$typically$used$to$ make$the$meat$go$that$little$bit$further.$As$with$the$vast$majority$of$ the$Balkans,$food$in$the$northern$regions$of$Albania$is$largely$meatM based$although$there$is$an$abundance$of$fresh$fish$and$seafood$on$ the$menu$along$the$coast,$and$carp$(amusingly$called$crap)$is$a$ delicacy$in$Shkodra$and$is$typically$baked$in$the$oven$or$grilled.$Many$ people$grow$their$own$fruits$and$vegetables$in$the$mountains$so$ !

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you’ll$also$come$across$lots$of$fresh$salads$(the$tomatoes$and$ cucumbers$are$particularly$tasty)$and$delicious$homemade$jams$(the$ fig$jam$is$divine!).$White$cheese$(djath1i1bardh)$is$made$daily$in$most$ Albanian$households$from$cow,$sheep$or$goats’$milk$and$is$a$staple$of$ each$meal.$It$is$hard$and$salty$and$tastes$a$bit$like$Greek$feta$ cheese.$Meat$will$always$be$on$any$Albanian$menu$and$thank$ goodness$as$it$tastes$divine.$Chopped$into$large$chunks,$lamb,$goat$ and$beef$is$normally$$slow$cooked$in$the$oven$with$lemon$juice,$butter$ and$even$milk.$For$the$best$flavour,$order$lamb$during$springtime,$goat$ in$the$summer,$and$beef$from$autumn$and$into$the$winter.$ $ Sweet!Treats!>! Like$the$rest$of$the$Balkans,$Albanian$cakes$and$desserts$are$sweet$and$ sticky.$National$favourites$include$TurkishMinfluenced$baklava$pastries$ and$if$you$have$the$opportunity$to$try$Fli,$make$sure$you$do.$It’s$ a$traditional$treat$from$Northern$Albania$that's$made$with$alternating$ layers$of$crepeMlike$batter$with$butter$and$cream.$Each$layer$is$baked$ under$a$large$iron$lid$in$the$embers$of$a$wood$fire$and$it’s$typically$ served$with$honey$to$add$sweetness.$$ $ MusthTry!Food!&!Drink!>! Byrek$(savoury$pastry$made$with$layers$of$paperMthin$dough$and$filled$ with$ingredients$like$cheese,$onions,$tomato,$wild$spinach,$nettles,$ cabbage$or$pumpkin$and$traditionally$served$by$the$slice);$Raki$ (Albania’s$national$spirit$–$it’s$powerful$but$has$to$be$tried$at$least$ once!);$Ngjyem1specash$(yoghurt$with$green$peppers);$Maze1e1zier$(a$ rich$and$creamy$polenta$cooked$with$white$cheese$and$butter$in$a$clay$ pot$over$an$open$fire);$$Kafe1turke1(coffee$made$in$the$traditional$ Balkan$way$with$lots$of$grounds$and$sugar$brewed$together);$Boza$ (popular$sweet$drink$made$from$maize$and$wheat).$ $ Wine!>$ Wine$has$long$been$produced$in$Albania$and$represents$a$centuriesM old$tradition.$Through$archeological$finds,$production$has$been$traced$ 16!

back$some$3,000$years$to$the$Illyrians$who$established$a$thriving$wine$ industry$in$the$region$which$continued$to$flourish$under$the$ Byzantines.$The$most$wellMknown$wines$in$Albania$are$Kallmet$and$ Shesh.$Made$from$indigenous$grapes,$Kallmet$is$a$red$wine$while$Shesh$ is$a$mixture$of$both$red$and$white.$However,$most$people$that$grow$ grapes$in$Albania$use$them$to$brew$raki,$a$potent$clear$spirit$that$ represents$the$country’s$national$drink.$$ $ Firewater!>$ The$most$popular$and$traditional$alcoholic$beverage$is$raki,$which$is$ often$made$from$grapes$but$can$be$also$distilled$using$a$variety$of$fruits$ including$plums,$mulberries,$and$even$walnuts.$Reminiscent$of$Russian$ vodka,$raki$is$stronger$and$more$aromatic$and$literally$everyone$drinks$ the$stuff.$$In$some$instances$you$may$even$come$across$men$washing$ down$breakfast$with$a$few$shots!$If$you$do$come$across$the$mulberry$ raki$make$sure$you$take$the$opportunity$to$try$it$as$Albanians$are$the$ only$people$in$the$world$that$produce$it.$Brandy$is$also$popular$here,$ and$the$local$brand$(Skanderbeg)$has$even$won$several$international$ competitions.$ $

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THE BASICS Health$&$Safety$

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HEALTH & SAFETY ! Emergency!Contacts!>! $In$the$unlikely$event$you$experience$any$problems$whilst$travelling$ in$Albania$with$Untravelled$Paths$please$contact$our$local$Balkans$ manager,$Ilija$Dujovic$on$+382$699$035$72.$Alternatively$if$you$cannot$ get$through$call$the$Untravelled$Paths$office$on$+44207$101$4061.$$$ $ Crime$>$ Albania$is$not$a$dangerous$country$for$visitors$when$it$comes$to$ crime$and$personal$safety.$Violent$crime$is$only$really$associated$ within$the$context$of$blood$feuds$in$the$north$or$organised$'mafiaM linked’$crime$in$the$south$so$you’re$highly$unlikely$to$experience$any$ problems$during$your$stay$here.$However,$Albania$is$still$one$of$the$ poorest$in$Europe$so$applying$basic$commonMsense$rules$should$ be$sufficient$in$preventing$instances$of$theft$and$petty$crime.$$$ Smoking:$Smoking$in$public$places$is$officially$prohibited$in$Albania$ although$it$isn't$enforced$particularly$rigorously$and$Albanians$are$ very$heavy$smokers$and$enjoy$nothing$more$than$sitting$in$clouds$of$ smoke!$Should$you$choose$to$smoke$while$you’re$in$the$country,$we$ kindly$ask$you$to$respect$the$environment$by$disposing$of$cigarette$ butts$in$bins$rather$than$throwing$them$just$anywhere.$ ! Medication!&!First!Aid!>$ To$ensure$you’re$covered$from$all$angles,$we$suggest$considering$ packing$a$small$medical$kit$with$the$following$items,$just$in$case:$$ • Antibacterial$hand$gel$ • Antidiarrheal$tablets,$eg.$Imodium$ • High$factor$sun$cream$ • Antihistamines$ • Insect$repellent$ • Painkillers$and$antiMinflammatories$ www.untravelledpaths.com$$ !

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Tissues$ Personal$mediation$M$if$you$take$any$medication,$please$also$ ensure$you$take$a$copy$of$your$prescription$ $ Water!>$ As$a$general$rule,$it’s$a$good$bet$to$stick$to$bottle$water$in$order$to$ avoid$a$tummy$upset.$However,$you’ll$likely$be$served$iced$mountain$ water$at$the$guesthouses$in$the$Albanian$Alps$which$comes$from$ glacial$melt$via$limestone$springs$that$last$as$natural$filters$making$it$ perfect$safe$to$drink$and$positively$delicious!$If$you’re$out$walking$do$ make$sure$that$you$carry$plenty$of$water$with$you.$$ $ Roads!&!Drivers!>$ The$greatest$danger$you’ll$face$in$Albania$is$on$the$roads$which,$ despite$having$been$improved$drastically$doesn’t$change$the$fact$that$ Albanians$are$amongst$some$of$the$most$reckless$and$dangerous$ drivers$in$Europe.$Easily$distracted,$often$using$one$or$two$hands$to$ talking$on$the$phone$and/or$smoke,$eager$to$honk,$disrespectful$of$ speed$limits,$ignorant$about$the$merits$of$seatbelts,$stopping$in$the$ middle$of$the$road$to$chat$with$a$pedestrian$relative,$and$ inconsiderate$to$other$road$users,$they$overtake$in$corners$at$high$ speeds$in$their$Mercedes$as$if$they$were$still$riding$donkeys.$The$most$ reliable$way$to$stay$safe$on$the$roads$is$to$exercise$extreme$caution.$$ $ Public!Toilets!>! Most$public$toilets,$if$any,$are$not$the$most$modern$of$facilities$and$ can$often$means$an$uncomfortable$‘squat’.$We$suggest$keeping$a$ packet$of$tissues$or$a$roll$of$toilet$paper$with$you$just$in$case.$If$there$ are$no$signs$on$the$toilet$doors,$men$should$follow$burra$and$women$ should$head$for$grate.$ $ The!Environment!>$ Please$be$respectful$of$the$environment$when$you$are$visiting$the$ Albanian$Alps.$Pick$up$any$rubbish$you$may$have$accumulated$even$if$ 20!

! you$see$examples$of$litter$(of$which$you$will$likely$encounter$a$lot$of!)$ and$keep$the$noise$to$a$minimum.$Please$also$be$extremely$cautious$ when$walking$without$a$guide$in$the$mountains$M$their$steep$and$ crumbly$limestone$geology$makes$landslides,$avalanches$and$flash$ floods$a$high$possibility$especially$during$rainy$weather.$Make$sure$you$ allow$enough$time$to$make$your$way$at$the$end$of$a$walk$and$carry$ plenty$of$water$and$suncream$with$you.$$ $ Customs!&!Etiquette!>! Not$entirely$related$to$health$and$safety$unless$you$happen$to$overly$ offend$a$bunch$of$Albanians$and$it$all$goes$pearMshaped!$Anyway,$we$ thought$it$would$be$useful$to$give$you$some$information$on$the$sort$of$ customs$and$etiquette$practiced$in$Albania.$ • Albanians$are$extremely$hospitable,$friendly$and$open.$Foreigners$are$ treated$as$very$important$guests.$ • Older$people$and$elder$males$in$particular$expect$to$be$shown$a$level$ of$respect.$Shake$hands$with$them$and$use$formal$language$when$ addressing$them.$$ • Kissing$cheeks$is$a$common$form$of$greeting$between$people$of$the$ same$gender$even$if$they$are$meeting$for$the$first$time.$However,$in$ Northern$Albania$most$people$will$touch$cheek$to$cheek$instead$of$ kissing.$Men$and$women$only$kiss$each$other$on$the$cheeks$if$they$ have$known$each$other$for$a$long$period$of$time.$ • Before$entering$a$local$Albanian$home,$it$is$customary$to$remove$ one's$shoes$and$put$on$a$pair$of$slippers.$Sometimes$Albanians$have$ a$different$set$of$slippers$for$each$room$in$the$house.$Don’t$worry,$ your$shoes$will$still$be$outside$when$you’re$ready$to$go.$$ • While$you$may$be$plied$with$shots$of$‘raki,$the$local$grape$firewater,$ at$all$angles$as$a$gesture$of$welcome,$you’re$also$expected$to$hold$ your$drink.$Locals$will$often$sip$their$liquor$instead$of$downing$it$in$ one.$ • If$you$are$male,$or$a$female$travelling$with$a$group$of$men,$be$sure$to$ avoid$complimenting$local$women.$You$should$always,$ however,$compliment$babies$and$young$children!$ 21!

ALBANIA $ Wild$and$rugged$Albania$is$a$truly$a$hidden$Mediterranean$gem.$ Situated$just$north$of$mainland$Greece,$Albania$is$an$ undiscovered$country$full$of$outstanding$natural$beauty$with$a$ wealth$of$history$just$waiting$to$be$explored.$From$the$Romans$ and$the$Greeks$to$the$Ottomans,$past$civilisations$have$left$their$ distinct$marks$on$Albania’s$landscape,$architecture$and$ archaeological$sites$as$showcased$in$fascinating$ancient$sites$of$ its$UNESCO$World$Heritage$Sites,$Berat$and$Butrint,$and$other$ dramatic$mountain$citadels$dotted$across$the$countryside.$$ $ A$country$of$stunning$contrast,$Albania$boasts$both$wild$and$ rugged$landscapes$peppered$with$jagged$mountains$and$ traditional$villages$alongside$long$stretches$of$sandy$coastline,$ lush$meadows$and$green$pastures.$Albania’s$coastlines$is$the$ ultimate$draw$with$miles$of$deserted$pristine$beaches,$ beautifully$sun$kissed$along$the$Ionian$Coast$while$the$north$of$ the$country$preserves$rural$traditions$and$maintains$its$ reputation$as$a$wild$frontier.$Here,$legends$of$blood$feuds$and$ sworn$virgins$tumble$through$menacing$mountains$and$desolate$ valleys,$creating$an$atmosphere$of$mystery$and$intrigue.$With$ spectacular$alpine$scenery$and$local$people$that$offer$warmth$ and$genuine$hospitality,$the$fact$that$Albania$is$still$one$of$ Europe’s$poorest$countries$makes$it$all$the$more$incredible.$$ $ Expect$the$unexpected$and$prepare$to$be$blown$away$!$ $ 22!

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$ $ $ $ $ $ $

LEARN >

Something$Interesting$–$Shkodra!(26M27)!

See > Something$from$the$Bronze$Age$–$Rozafa!Castle!(28M29)$ Somewhere$Magical$on$the$Water$–$Lake!Koman!Ferry! (30M31)$

SHKODRA$

STAY > Somewhere$Traditional$–$Hotel!Tradita!(32M33)$

EAT > Somewhere$Authentic$for$Regional$Specialities$–$Tradita! Restaurant!(34M35)$

! $ $ $

$ ! 24!

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!!25!

The city of birds and bicycles

SHKODRA > $ Renowned$for$its$association$with$Mother$Teresa,$where$ the$nunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s$Catholic$family$originated,$Shkodra$is$regarded$ as$a$centre$of$culture$and$is$the$biggest$city$in$northern$ Albania.$Set$on$the$shores$of$Lake$Shkodra,$the$largest$ lake$in$the$Balkans,$against$a$dramatic$backdrop$ featuring$the$rugged$peaks$of$looming$mountains,$the$ dignified$town$of$Shkodra$is$the$perfect$base$to$explore$ the$abundant$natural$surroundings$and$marvels$of$the$ north.$$ Also$known$as$the$city$of$birds$and$bicycles,$Shkodraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s$ predominant$atmosphere$is$one$of$relaxation$and$ease,$ punctuated$by$the$sweet$cadence$of$birdsong$and$the$ whirring$of$bicycle$wheels$as$the$locals$pedal$to$and$fro$ along$the$many$wide$communistMera$boulevards$that$ crissMcross$the$city.$! The$strong$Italian$influence$is$reflected$in$the$ architectural$style$of$the$town$as$well$as$being$ showcased$within$the$walls$of$the$impressive$Rozafa$ Castle,$which$towers$above$the$city$with$a$sense$of$deep$ historical$presence$and$harks$back$to$the$Ottoman$era.$$ $

! 26!

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!!27!

ROZAFA CASTLE >

$ As$Shkodra’s$pride$and$joy,$a$visit$to$the$legendary$Rozafa$ Castle$is$an$absolute$must.$Dating$back$to$the$Bronze$Age$ with$remnants$of$Illyrian,$Venetian$and$Ottoman$periods,$the$ impressive$citadel$sits$high$atop$a$hill$overlooking$the$ sprawling$expanse$of$cityM$and$landscape$below.$$ $ Discover$the$ancient$courtyards$and$crumbling$buildings,$as$ well$as$the$ruins$of$St$Stephen;$the$13th$century$churchMcumM mosque.$Please$note$that$there$are$no$warnings$for$steep$ drops$or$cistern$entrances$so$exercise$caution$when$ exploring.$$ $ The$castle$is$located$3km$from$the$town$centre$so$If$you’d$ like$to$have$a$look$around$do$let$the$staff$at$your$hotel$know$ so$they$can$organise$a$taxi$for$you.$The$visit$shouldn’t$take$ more$than$a$couple$of$hours$so$you$should$have$enough$time$ to$get$back$and$freshen$up$before$enjoying$some$authentic$ Albanian$fare$for$dinner.$ $ Open:$08:00$–$22:00$ Price:$200$lek$per$person$(around$£1)$

Something FROM THE BRONZE AGE

! ! 28!

!!!!!!!

SEE!

!!!!!!Shkodra$>$See$>$Rozafa$Castle

29!

Something MAGICAL ON THE WATER

SEE!

LAKE KOMAN FERRY > $

Gaze$out$of$the$window$and$watch$remote$mountain$villages$ and$picturesque$lakes$fly$past$you$from$Shkodra$to$the$ferry$port$ at$Koman.$After$passing$under$the$mountain$tunnel,$you’ll$pull$ up$to$the$ferry$landing$and$your$adventure$will$truly$feel$like$it’s$ about$to$begin!$$ $ Once$you$get$to$the$harbour$there$will$no$doubt$be$some$ waiting$around$for$the$boat$to$arrive.$There’s$a$small$wooden$ café$in$the$upstairs$building$where$you$can$grab$a$strong$ Albanian$coffee$and$a$snack$while$you$wait,$and$you$can$even$ check$out$the$Virgin$Mary$shrine$that$sits$in$a$rocky$chasm$to$ the$left$of$the$ferry$landing.$$ $ You’ll$probably$laugh$when$you$see$the$‘ferry’$–$it’s$essentially$a$ wheelMless$bus$plonked$onto$a$boat$but$the$journey$itself$has$ been$heralded$as$the$most$beautiful$ferry$ride$in$Southern$ Europe!$$ $ Reminiscent$of$the$spectacular$Norwegian$fjords,$the$dramatic$ scenery$throughout$the$twoMhour$trip$is$unforgettable$–$you’ll$ be$drifting$past$isolated$farmhouses$and$rural$villages$as$the$ boat$carves$its$way$through$incredible$high$gorges$on$the$ emerald$waters$of$the$lake.$

! ! $

! 30!

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!!31!

HOTEL TRADITA >

Somewhere TRADITIONAL

$ Part$museum,$part$cultural$centre,$your$local$ accommodation$at$Hotel$Tradita$is$a$treasure$trove$of$ Albanian$culture$and$tradition.$Housed$in$a$fully$restored$ historical$building,$the$hotel$has$a$fabulous$collection$of$ traditional$costumes$typical$of$the$region$displayed$within$ the$realMlife$museum$along$with$odd$sewing$machines,$ typewriters$and$copper$saucepans$and$cooking$utensils.$$ $ The$rooms$are$all$uniquely$decorated$with$ethnographic$ pieces$including$handMwoven$Albanian$carpets,$ancient$black$ and$white$photographs,$ornate$wooden$plates$and$hand$ painted$chests$but$still$boast$new$bathrooms$with$plenty$of$ hot$water$and$strong$internet$connection!$$ $ The$hotel$is$a$short$stroll$from$the$centre$of$town$or$you$can$ travel$like$the$locals$and$hop$onto$one$of$Traditaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s$free$ bicycles$to$explore$the$area.$Alternatively,$thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s$a$pleasant$ outdoor$courtyard$where$you$can$enjoy$a$coffee$and$get$ stuck$into$a$good$book,$preferably$written$by$Albanian$ novelist$Ismail$Kadare.$$

$ $ $ 32!

!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!! !!!!!Shkodra$>$Stay$>$Hotel$Tradita

STAY! 33!

Somewhere AUTHENTIC FOR REGIONAL SPECIALITIES

TRADITA RESTAURANT >

$ Get$a$taste$of$Albania$at$the$Tradita$Restaurant$and$treat$ yourself$to$an$evening$of$traditional$Albanian$cuisine$and$ entertainment.$Part$museum,$part$cultural$centre,$Tradita$ is$housed$in$a$fully$restored$historical$building$and$has$a$ fabulous$collection$of$traditional$costumes$typical$of$the$ region,$displayed$within$the$realMlife$museum.$$ $ Be$prepared$for$a$feast$of$excellent$regional$dishes$ including$lamb$grilled$on$the$open$fireplace$and$warm$ ovenMbaked$feta$cheese$all$served$in$ceramic$pots.$The$ portions$are$very$generous$so$you$wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t$go$hungry!$You$ might$even$find$yourself$whisked$off$your$feet$for$a$dance$ to$traditional$live$music.$ $ Rruga1Edith1Durham14,1Shkodra1 Open!daily107:001â&#x20AC;&#x201C;101:001 ! !

EAT!

! $

34!

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$ $ $ $ $ $ $

VALBONA$

LEARN > Something$Interesting$–$Valbona!(38M39)!

DO > Something$Active$with$a$Kick$of$Culture$–$Gjarperi!Stans!Hike! (40M41)$ Something$in$the$Great$Outdoors$–$Hiking,!Walking!&! Rambling!(42M43)$ Something$Tasty$in$the$Kitchen$–$Albanian!Cooking!(44M45)$ Something$Cultural$with$the$Locals$–$Village!Activities!(46M47)$ Something$on$Foot$through$the$Mountains$–$Hike!to!Thethi! (48M49)$

STAY >

Somewhere$Remote$in$the$Albanian$Alps$–$Rezidenca!(50M51)$

EAT > Somewhere$Welcoming$for$Fresh$&$Delicious$Meals$– $Relindja!(52M53)$

! $ 36!

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Fresh air, gob-smacking mountain vistas and a hub of thriving culture and history

VALBONA > $ Nestled$in$the$heart$of$the$rugged$alpine$Valbona$Valley,$ the$isolated$village$of$Valbona$is$truly$the$stuff$of$legend.$ Albania’s$wild$‘Accursed$Mountains’$loom$powerfully$ over$the$lush$valley$where$lovely$pockets$of$rural$ farmhouses$and$patchworkMquilt$fields$huddle$in$clusters$ amongst$the$mysterious$surroundings.$An$icy$cold$and$ crystal$clear$river$meanders$through$the$valley,$twisting$ and$turning$between$thick$forests,$craggy$rocks$and$ remote$villages.$$$ $ A$region$of$incredible$natural$beauty,$the$Valbona$Valley$ is$home$to$an$extensive$ecoMsystem$of$wildlife$and$plant$ life,$and$remains$one$of$the$most$beautiful,$remote$and$ undiscovered$places$in$Europe.$Fresh$air,$gobsmacking$ mountain$vistas$and$a$hub$of$thriving$culture$and$history,$ Valbona$really$is$off$the$beaten$track.$$ $ Get$a$taste$for$the$rural$mountain$lifestyle$and$ experience$the$warm$hospitality$of$the$local$people,$who$ honour$guests$like$royalty.$ $

! $ $ 38!

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!!39!

GJARPERI STANS HIKE > This$stunning$day$hike$through$the$Albanian$Alps$includes$visits$to$ a$string$of$mountain$‘stans’,$where$local$families$stay$with$their$ animals$during$the$summer$months.$Aside$from$some$steep$ hairpin$climbs$through$shaded$mossy$pathways$tangled$with$ tree$roots$and$limestone$rocks,$the$walk$is$fairly$easyMgoing$and$ affords$breathtaking$alpine$scenery$over$the$sharp$peaks$of$the$ Accursed$Mountains.$$ $ You’ll$wind$your$way$along$open$meadows$peppered$ with$haystacks$and$through$abandoned$orchards$carpeted$with$ daisies$that$are$full$of$plums$in$the$late$summer$(and$also$sweetM toothed$bears!).$You’ll$be$warmly$welcomed$into$the$homes$of$ the$families$who$live$in$the$remote$stans$and$will$no$doubt$be$ encouraged$to$tuck$into$platefuls$of$freshlyMchurned$cheese$and$ pickled$cucumbers$washed$down$with$refreshing$mountain$tea$ and$plenty$of$ice$cold$water.$ $ The$hike$can$be$adjusted$to$either$half$a$day$or$a$full$day$ rambling$in$the$mountains.$As$the$trail$is$not$marked$you’ll$be$ allocated$a$local$guide$to$accompany$you$for$the$day.$If$you’d$like$ a$packed$lunch$you$can$arrange$this$with$Catherine$at$Relindja$for$ 4€$or$so.$It$is$also$advisable$to$carry$some$cash$with$you$if$you’d$ like$to$sample$some$of$the$local$produce$from$the$families$in$the$ mountain$stans.$$ $ Duration:$4$hours$(halfMday);$10$hours$(fullMday)$ Price:$30€$(halfMday);$50€$(fullMday)$ 40!

!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!!Valbona$>$Do$>$Gjaperi$Stans$Hike

DO!

Something ACTIVE WITH A KICK OF CULTURE 41!

DO!

Something IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS

HIKING, WALKING & RAMBLING > $ Discover$the$mountain$trails$of$the$beautiful$Valbona$ Valley$on$foot$with$the$help$of$an$experienced$local$guide,$ and$take$in$the$stunning$Alpine$scenery,$breathing$in$the$ fresh$mountain$air$as$you$go.$There$are$countless$routes$to$ choose$from$if$you’re$keen$to$get$involved$with$some$ walking,$rambling$and$hiking.$Just$let$us$know$how$you’d$ like$to$experience$the$Valbona$Valley$and$we’ll$set$you$up$ with$a$route$that$suits$your$pace$and$style.$ $ If$you$do$decide$to$undertake$one$of$the$recommended$ hikes$on$your$own,$please$ensure$you$allow$plenty$of$time$ for$the$roundMtrip$and$be$aware$that$most$of$the$paths$are$ not$marked.$There$is$no$rescue$service$in$this$remote$area$ of$the$world$and$the$limestone$mountains$are$prone$to$ shifting$and$crumbling$so$taking$a$guide$for$some$of$the$ more$challenging$hikes$is$advisable.$$ ! ! $

! $ 42!

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!!43!

ALBANIAN COOKING >

DO!

Something TASTY IN THE KITCHEN

Roll$up$your$sleeves$and$step$into$a$local$village$kitchen$for$ some$traditional$Albanian$baking.$You’ll$learn$how$to$make$a$ delicious$byrek$M$a$savoury$pastry$made$with$layer$upon$layer$ of$flaky$thin$dough$and$filled$with$various$seasonal$ ingredients$like$salted$cheese,$onions,$pumpkin$and$even$ young$nettles.$Once$you’ve$painstakingly$rolled$the$paperMthin$ sheets$of$dough$under$the$watchful$eye$of$Mama$Sose,$you’ll$ fill$and$roll$the$pastry$until$you’ve$created$a$giant$round$byrek$ that’s$ready$to$bake$in$the$oven.$The$whole$process$is$fiddly$ and$timeMconsuming$but$your$hard$work$will$be$rewarded$at$ the$end$of$it$all$with$a$tasty$treat$that$you$can$enjoy$as$part$of$ your$dinner$or$share$with$newfound$friends$for$extra$brownie$ points!$$ $ You$might$even$have$the$opportunity$to$make$‘fli’,$another$ typical$dish$of$the$area,$which$involves$cooking$a$batter$under$ an$iron$lid$on$the$embers$of$an$open$fire$and$layering$it$with$ lots$of$cream$and$butter.$It’s$pretty$backMbreaking$work$but,$ we’re$sure$you’ll$agree,$the$result$is$worth$it.$If$you’re$keen$to$ get$your$apron$on$then$please$let$us$know$well$in$advance$so$ we$can$organise$it$for$you.$$ $ Price:$20€$per$person$ Duration:$2M3$hours$$ 44!

!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!Valbona$>$Do$>$Albanian$Cooking

45!

VILLAGE ACTIVITIES >

DO!

Take$a$step$back$in$time$and$get$your$hands$dirty$with$some$ traditional$village$activities$like$hayMstacking,$milking$cows$and$ herding$sheep.$Learn$how$to$work$with$wool$the$oldMfashioned$ way$from$the$village$women$who$are$masters$in$the$art$of$speedM knitting.$Once$you’ve$mastered$the$technique,$have$a$go$at$ making$a$pair$of$woollen$socks$although$don’t$expect$to$compete$ with$Mama$Sose’s$lightningMfast$knitting$fingers!$$ $ You$might$even$be$interested$in$helping$the$locals$build$their$ towering$haystacks.$You’ll$learn$how$to$use$a$scythe$and$pitchfork$ to$dry$and$pile$up$the$hay$before$clambering$on$top$of$the$stack$ to$ensure$the$structure$is$compressed,$neat$and$tidy.$Get$out$in$ the$mountains$and$pick$armfuls$of$inMseason$berries$including$ cherries,$strawberries,$blueberries$and$plums.$Of$course,$the$cows$ are$always$in$need$of$tending$so$get$stuck$in$with$the$milking$and$ herding,$much$to$the$amusement$of$the$villagers$who’ll$most$ probably$think$you’re$a$bit$mad!$$ $ There$is$a$whole$host$of$traditional$activities$available$that$offer$a$ fantastic$insight$into$rural$life$here$in$the$Albanian$Alps.$However,$ please$note$that$most$of$these$will$be$seasonal$so$please$do$let$us$ know$in$advance$if$you’re$interested$in$getting$involved$and$we’ll$ inform$you$of$what$is$available.$$

Something CULTURAL WITH THE LOCALS 46!

Price:$20€$/$30€$per$person$ Duration:$2$hours$/$4$hours$

! www.untravelledpaths.com$$ !

!!47!

HIKE TO THETH > $ The$sixMhour$hike$from$the$Valbona$Valley$through$the$ Valbona$Pass$is$the$only$way$to$get$to$the$serenely$beautiful$ village$of$Thethi.$The$day$begins$with$a$hearty$mountain$ breakfast$and$a$45$minute$transfer$over$to$the$start$of$the$ hike$through$an$area$of$riverbeds$by$jeep$M$not$something$you$ want$to$be$hiking$through!$Once$you’re$ready$to$go$you’ll$load$ your$bags$onto$your$horse$and$set$off$with$a$local$boy$who’ll$ guide$you$through$the$pass.$$ $ The$first$section$of$the$hike$is$the$most$challenging$with$an$ 800m$incline$up$the$mountain$side$that$takes$around$two$and$ a$half$hours.$Once$you$get$to$the$top$you$might$like$to$ reward$yourself$with$an$ice$cold$soft$drink$at$the$little$ outdoor$cafe$that$cools$its$bottle$in$buckets$left$within$the$icy$ mountain$stream.$$ $ Once$you’ve$hiked$over$the$pass$itself$you'll$come$to$a$ delightful$picnic$spot$overlooking$the$beautiful$surroundings$ of$the$Albanian$Highlands$where$you$can$tuck$in$to$your$ packed$lunch$(this$will$need$to$be$preMarranged$with$ Catherine).$On$the$other$side$of$the$pass,$you’ll$begin$the$ 1000m$descent$towards$Theth$with$a$gentler$downwards$ walk$through$forest,$meadows$and$rocky$slopes$should$take$ around$three$and$a$half$hours.$$ 48!

!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!Valbona$>$Do$>$Hike$to$Theth

DO!

Something ON FOOT THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS 49!

REZIDENCA >

STAY!

Something REMOTE IN THE ALBANIAN ALPS 50!

All$of$the$Rezidenca’s$rooms$are$kitted$out$with$wooden$ fittings,$super$double$beds$with$clean$white$linens,$private$ bathrooms$and$your$very$own$balcony.$Downstairs$you’ll$ find$a$simple$sitting$room$area$complete$with$fireplace$as$ well$as$a$selfMservice$kitchen$for$making$drinks$or$snacks.$As$ in$a$local$Albanian$house,$you’re$also$provided$with$indoor$ sandals$to$wear$while$you’re$inside.$The$mountain$views$ are$wonderful$overlooking$the$crooked$mountains$and$ cornfields$and$pastures$kept$nice$and$trim$by$the$local$ cows.$$ $ There’s$a$20$minute$stroll$to$the$guesthouse$along$a$shaded$ trail$through$the$woods$that$follows$a$babbling$stream$M$ perfect$for$working$up$an$appetite$for$lunch$or$dinner$at$ the$nearby$Relindja$Restaurant.$This$is$where$you’ll$be$ having$breakfast$in$the$morning$and$will$probably$end$up$ being$the$location$of$choice$for$homemade$lunches$and$ hearty$dinners.$$ $ Because$of$its$remote$location,$the$area$never$feels$ crowded$with$people.$The$vast$canopy$of$stars$that$ blankets$the$sky$at$night$is$amongst$the$most$beautiful$ we’ve$ever$seen,$and$the$air$is$wonderfully$fresh$and$ clean.$It’s$one$of$our$favourite$places$to$relax$and$take$ stock$of$the$world.$We$hope$you$love$it$as$much$as$we$do!!

$ www.untravelledpaths.com$$ !

!!51!

RELINDJA > $

EAT!

The$Relindja$Restaurant$serves$up$fresh$mountain$ fare$typical$of$Northern$Albania$and$is$set$within$the$ cosy$wooden$cabin$that$makes$up$the$guesthouse.$ Think$platefuls$of$grilled$lamb$and$goat,$green$salads$and$ fresh$trout$from$the$river$served$with$meltMinMtheMmouth$burek$ pastry$filled$with$white$cheese$and$spinach,$creamy$mashed$ potato$cooked$in$rosemary$milk$and$warm$bread$fresh$from$the$ oven.$You$could$even$treat$yourself$to$a$whole$goat$roasted$on$a$ spit!$Breakfasts$are$a$long,$relaxed$affair$and$feature$fresh$fig$and$ cherry$jam,$thick$slices$of$homemade$bread$and$banana$ pancakes,$eggs$and$tasty$sausages,$all$washed$down$with$plenty$ of$tea$or$coffee.$$ $ You’ll$no$doubt$meet$the$wonderful$Catherine,$Alfred$and$the$rest$ of$the$family$where$you$can$chat$about$what$you’d$like$to$do$for$ the$rest$of$your$time$here$in$Valbona.$Aside$from$being$superM friendly$and$generally$lovely,$they$are$an$absolute$fountain$of$ knowledge$with$the$most$upMtoMdate$information$and$resources$ to$help$you$explore.$They$are$heavily$involved$with$trail$marking,$ map$making,$environmental$research$and$education$programmes$ and$have$a$wealth$of$hiking$and$rambling$trails$so$don’t$be$shy$to$ let$them$know$what$you’re$looking$for.$Get$exploring$straight$ away$or$have$a$cold$beer,$enjoy$a$game$of$chess$or$read$your$ book$and$absorb$the$tranquil$surroundings$on$the$terrace$with$a$ cup$of$fragrant$Albanian$mountain$tea.$$

! 52!

!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!

!!Valbona$>$Eat$>$Relindja

Somewhere WELCOMING FOR FRESH & DELICIOUS FOOD 53!

$ $ $ $ $ $ $

LEARN > Something$Interesting$–$Theth!(56M57)!

See >

Something$out$of$Living$Legend$–$Kulla!Tower!(58M59)$ Somewhere$Iconic$M$Catholic!Church$(60M61)$ Something$of$Natural$Beauty$–$Grunas$Waterfall!(60M61)$ $

THETH$

DO >

Something$Active$in$the$Fresh$Air$–$Hike!to!Montenegro!! (62M63)$

STAY >

Somewhere$Rural$with$Authentic$Hospitality$–Gjecaj! Guesthouse!(64M65)$

EAT >

Somewhere$Simple$for$HomeMGrown$Meals$–$Gjecaj!(66M 67)$

! 54!

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!!55!

‘I think no place where human beings live has given me such an impression of majestic isolation from the entire world.’

THETH > $ Set$in$a$lush$green$valley$encircled$by$the$dramatic$snowM dusted$peaks$of$the$Shala$Mountains,$Theth$is$peppered$ with$traditional$farmhouses$and$is$home$to$a$19th$century$ Catholic$church$as$well$as$the$infamous$kullas,$or$defence$ towers$used$by$those$caught$up$in$the$blood$feuds.$$ On$her$visit$to$the$remote$village$in$1908,$Edith$Durham,$ the$famous$English$writer$and$traveller$has$this$to$say:$‘I1 think1no1place1where1human1beings1live1has1given1me1such1 an1impression1of1majestic1isolation1from1the1entire1world.1 It1is1a1spot1where1the1centuries1shrivel;1the1river1might1be1 the1world’s1wellPspring,1its1banks1the1fit1home1of1elemental1 instincts–passions1that1are1red1and1rapid.’$$ We$couldn’t$agree$with$her$more$and$we’re$sure$you$will$ too!$ $

! $ $ $

$ ! ! 56!

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!!57!

KULLA TOWER >

$ Set$above$the$gushing$waters$of$a$glacial$river,$the$tall$ stone$tower$of$the$kulla$is$one$of$the$area's$last$few$ remaining$lockMin$towers$and$offers$a$fascinating$insight$ into$northern$Albanian$history$and$culture.$$ $ With$strong$stone$walls$and$thin$slits$for$windows,$the$tower$ provided$the$necessary$protection$for$a$man$involved$in$a$ blood$feud$which,$according$to$the$laws$detailed$in$the$ Kanun,$required$the$male$relative$to$take$refuge$from$the$ revenge$killings$between$neighbouring$families$until$ judgment$was$made$on$his$fate.$Although$kullas$are$no$ longer$used,$revenge$killings$still$take$place$in$the$region$and$ the$power$of$the$Kanun$prevails.$$ $ The$interior$of$the$kulla$is$set$across$three$levels$and$has$ been$restored$with$authentic$features$including$traditional$ handwoven$carpets$and$sheep$skin$rugs$laid$over$the$ wooden$floorboards.$Once$youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve$had$a$peek$inside,$there's$ a$sweet$outdoor$cafe$next$to$the$defence$tower$where$you$ can$grab$a$cold$drink$or$coffee$and$enjoy$the$sunshine$on$one$ of$the$tables$and$chairs$sculpted$from$tree$trunks$and$ branches.$ $ Price:$around$â&#x201A;Ź1$entry$ 58!

!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!Theth$>$See$>$Kulla$Tower

SEE!

Something OUT OF LIVING LEGEND

59!

Somewhere ICONIC

SEE! Something OF NATURAL BEAUTY

CATHOLIC CHURCH > Set$in$the$tranquil$centre$of$the$village$of$Thethi,$this$ iconic$Catholic$church$was$built$in$1892$and$visited$by$ Edith$Durham$and$Rose$Wilder$Lane.$Designed$in$ vernacular$architectural$style,$the$church$comprises$a$ simple$rectangular$building$made$from$stone$with$a$ traditional$shingle$roof.$The$church$was$closed$during$ communist$times$and$turned$into$a$family$planning$clinic.$ Fortunately$it$has$now$been$restored$and$reMopen.$While$ thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s$not$all$that$much$to$do$once$you$reach$the$church,$ it$makes$for$a$picturesque$photo.$$

Grunas waterfall > An$additional$45$minute$stroll$from$the$Catholic$Church$ leads$you$to$the$lovely$location$of$the$Grunas$Waterfall$ (UjĂŤvara1e1Grunasit)1which$is$situated$within$the$borders$of$ Theth$National$Park.$With$crystal$clear$glacial$waters$ cascading$from$the$the$steep$cliffs,$the$altitude$of$ the$waterfall$measures$over$30$meters.$It$makes$a$great$spot$ for$a$picnic$or$a$quick$paddle$if$you$can$brave$the$icy$water!$

60!

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!!61!

MONTENEGRO HIKE> $ Crossing$the$once$forbidden$border$between$Albania$and$ Montenegro,$this$sevenMhour$hike$from$Theth$to$Vusanje$ offers$stunning$views$and$fresh$air$in$abundance.$Once$ you’ve$loaded$your$mule$with$your$luggage,$you’ll$set$off$ from$Theth$through$an$area$of$pine$forest$before$acsending$ towards$Lake$Pejёs$then$zigMzagging$up$a$steep$rocky$path$ towards$the$Pejёs$pass$where$you’ll$admire$the$panoramic$ vistas$from$the$viewpoint$over$the$highland$village$of$Thethi.$ $ The$hiking$trail$is$almost$exclusively$surrounded$by$the$ craggy$peaks$of$the$limestone$mountains$and$winds$its$ way$through$thick$oak$and$pine$forests$as$well$as$open$ meadows$and$valleys$dotted$with$shepherd’s$summer$ huts$and$glacial$lakes.$At$the$border$into$Montenegro$you’ll$ notice$the$military$post,$traditional$Albanian$bunker$and$ borderMcrossing$pyramid$that$was$used$during$the$ Communist$era.$$ $ On$the$last$leg$of$the$hike$just$before$reaching$Vusanje,$you’ll$ also$visit$a$clear$blue$eye$spring$and$waterfall$flowing$from$ the$Grlja$River.$When$you$finally$arrive$in$Vusanje$in$ Montenegro,$you’ll$be$collected$by$car$and$transferred$to$the$ Montenegrin$mountain$town$of$Kolasin$for$your$last$night.$$

62!

!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Theth$>$Do$>$Montenegro$Hike

DO!

Something ACTIVE IN THE FRESH AIR 63!

STAY!

Somewhere RURAL WITH AUTHENTIC HOSPITALITY

GJECAJ GUESTHOUSE > $ Located$in$the$heart$of$Thethi$National$Park$just$off$the$ hiking$trail$from$Valbona,$the$delightful$Gjecaj$guesthouse$ offers$a$unique$slice$of$traditional$Albanian$mountain$life$in$ an$area$of$extreme$natural$beauty$and$tranquility.$$ $ This$old$stone$house$is$a$working$family$farm$complete$ with$vegetable$gardens,$chickens,$cows$and$beehives$ overlooking$sheer$mountain$cliffs$with$the$sound$of$the$ glacial$stream$running$towards$the$tiny$village$of$Theth.$$ $ Rooms$are$basic$and$clean,$if$a$little$sparsely$decorated$but$ the$beds$are$comfortable,$topped$with$handmade$woollen$ blankets$and$the$water$is$hot.$The$electricity$can$be$a$bit$ unpredictable,$there’s$no$wireless$internet$to$be$spoken$of$ and$the$floorboards$are$creaky$but$we$think$these$rustic$ details$add$to$the$overall$charm$of$the$place$so$as$long$as$ you’re$prepared$for$simplicity$you’ll$enjoy$your$stay.$$ $ This$is$pure$rustic$romance$in$a$rural$setting.$Please$note$all$ your$meals$are$included$and$you$may$like$to$order$a$packed$ lunch$for$when$you’re$out$and$about.$Please$see$the$ relevant$section$for$more$information.$ ! $

! $

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!!65!

GJECAJ >

EAT!

Mrs.$Lula,$the$lady$of$the$Gjecaj$Guesthouse,$will$treat$ you$to$delicious$home$cooked$food$featuring$the$ freshest$of$ingredients$–$vegetables$from$the$garden,$local$ alpine$honey,$fresh$milk$and$cheese$from$the$farm$animals$and$ meat$from$the$family$farm.$$ $ As$everything$is$locally$produced,$the$menu$is$very$stark$and$ simple$and$you’ll$be$served$whatever$is$available$that$day.$ Think$cucumber,$tomato$and$green$pepper$salad$picked$fresh$ from$the$vegetable$patch,$chunks$of$lamb$baked$in$the$oven$with$ milk,$home$made$white$bread,$sheep$cheese$and$a$slice$of$home$ baked$sponge$cake$to$round$things$off.$They$also$serve$up$their$ own$raki$(the$local$firewater$–$be$prepared$to$have$your$head$ blown$off!)$and$a$selection$of$traditional$Albanian$beer$and$wine$ including$merlot$and$kallmet$wine.$$ $ For$breakfast,$there’ll$be$plenty$of$mountain$tea$and$iced$water$ along$with$layers$of$soft$and$hard$cheeses,$bowls$of$organic$ yoghurt,$homeMbaked$bread,$alpine$honey,$homemade$fig$jam$ and$scoops$of$fresh$butter.$You$can$even$ask$for$a$packed$lunch$ to$be$prepared$for$you$to$enjoy$during$your$day$out$exploring$ Theth$and$the$surrounding$valley.$!

$ !

Somewhere SIMPLE FOR HOME-GROWN MEALS

$ $ 66!

!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!Theth$>$Eat$>$Gjecaj

67!

$ $ $ $ $ $ $

LEARN > Something$Interesting$–$Kolasin!(70M71)$ $

SEE > Something$out$of$a$Fairytale$–$Moraca!Valley!&! Monastery!(72M73)$ $

KOLASIN $

STAY > Somewhere$Comfortable$–$Hotel!Brile!(74M75)$ $

EAT > Somewhere$Quaint$for$Hearty$Mountain$Food$– $Vodenica!(76M77)! ! $ $ $

68!

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!!69!

KOLASIN > $ Pitched$960m$above$sea$level,$the$mountain$town$of$ Kolasin$is$surrounded$by$snow$capped$mountain$peaks,$ gushing$glacial$rivers$and$clean,$fresh$air.$It$has$some$ unusual$features$including$what$looks$like$a$disused$car$ park$in$the$centre$of$the$main$square$and$some$rather$ ugly$buildings,$but$it$feels$like$a$proper$mountain$town$ and$is$packed$with$people$in$the$winter$who$come$for$ skiing.$$ $ With$the$virgin$forests$of$Biogradska$National$Park$and$its$ rich$flora$and$fauna$on$the$doorstep,$Kolasin$makes$the$ ideal$base$to$enjoy$the$outdoors,$embrace$nature$and$live$ well.$There$are$hiking$jaunts$aplenty$as$well$as$rafting,$ fishing$and$skiing$during$the$winter$so$youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll$never$find$ yourself$at$a$loose$end.$The$townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s$proximity$to$the$ breathtaking$Moraca$Valley$and$its$medieval$monastery$ makes$it$all$the$more$appealing.$$ $

! $ $ $

$ ! 70!

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!!71!

MORACA VALLEY & MONASTERY >

SEE!

Something OUT OF A FAIRYTALE

$ The$drive$through$the$Moraca$Valley$down$to$ Podgorica$is$breathtaking.$Gaze$into$the$pure$emerald$waters$ of$the$Moraca$River$that$cascade$into$the$deepening$gorge$and$ stare$in$awe$up$at$its$steep,$powerful$walls.$You$won’t$soon$ forget$the$spectacular$views$afforded$in$this$area$with$ mountains,$orchards,$lakes$and$crystal$waters$aplenty.$$ $ Along$the$way$you’ll$come$across$the$Moraca$Monastery,$ which$is$splendidly$set$above$a$fairytale$waterfall.$Restored$in$ the$late$16th$century$after$having$been$damaged$during$ Turkish$rule,$the$two$churches$boast$beautiful$frescoes$and$ icons$within$their$walls$dating$back$to$the$13th$and$ 14th$centuries$and$depicting$the$life$of$the$prophet$Elijah.$It’s$ peace$personified.$ $ Please$note$a$visit$to$the$monastery$is$time$permitting.$ $

$ ! ! $

! 72!

!!!!!!Kolasin$>$See$>$Moraca$Valley$&$Monastery

73!

Somewhere COMFORTABLE

HOTEL BRILE > $ Based$in$the$centre$of$Kolasin’s$mountain$town,$Hotel$ Brile$is$a$family$run$establishment$that$offers$comfort$and$ hospitality$within$a$simple,$authentic$setting.$The$hotel$ comprises$four$snug$suites,$two$homely$studios$and$two$ bedrooms$all$of$which$are$kitted$out$with$modern$fittings$ and$furnishings$as$well$as$offering$beautiful$alpine$vistas$ and$views$over$the$town’s$main$square.$The$rooms$are$ bright,$airy$and$spacious$and$very$clean$and$comfortable.$ The$hotel’s$Brile$Restaurant$serves$some$decent$food$and$ a$good$breakfast$with$warm$service$and$a$relaxed,$easyM going$ambiance$that$makes$it$perfect$for$a$cozy$night$in.$ The$hotel$also$has$its$own$sauna$for$the$ultimate$in$ relaxation.$ ! ! $

STAY! 74!

! $

www.untravelledpaths.com$$ !

!!75!

VODENICA >

EAT!

Perched$on$the$banks$of$a$gushing$whiteMwater$creek$right$in$the$ centre$of$Kolasin,$Vodenica$is$an$old$ watermill,$traditional$restaurant$and$our$favourite$place$to$tuck$into$ some$authentic$Montenegrin$cuisine$in$Kolasin.$The$interior$is$set$ across$two$levels$decorated$in$typical$mountain$style$with$wooden$ chairs$and$tables,$chequered$green$and$white$curtains$framing$little$ windows,$and$authentic$countryMhouse$ceramics$lining$the$walls.$$ $ Service$is$very$welcoming,$friendly$and$polite$and$the$menu$is$ limited$to$a$range$of$local$Montenegrin$specialities$such$as$ kacamak,$cicvara,$meat$prepared$in$the$traditional$manner$and$fish$ caught$from$the$nearby$river.$We$recommend$ordering$a$selection$ of$local$delicacies$with$some$mountain$ham,$cheese$and$freshly$ baked$bread$to$start,$followed$by$some$delicious$roasted,$countryM style$meats$accompanied$with$fresh$seasonal$salads,$perhaps$some$ cicvara$and$definitely$the$kacamak,$a$Montenegrin$type$of$mashed$ potatoes$mixed$with$lovely$local$cheese,$flour$and$milk.$For$dessert$ there's$a$balkan$variation$of$apple$pie$which$tastes$like$sticky$ baklava$filled$with$apples$and$cinnamon,$and$comes$dusted$with$ icing$sugar.$$ $ Local$food$and$local$prices$M$you're$looking$at$around$ÂŁ5$per$main$ course.$Can't$say$no!$1 1 Kolasin181210;1Open1Mon1to1Sun109:001â&#x20AC;&#x201C;123:00$

! 76!

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!!Kolasin$>$Eat$>$Vodenica

Somewhere QUAINT FOR HEARTY MOUNTAIN FOOD 77!

$ $ $ $ $ $ $

LANGUAGE

ALBANIAN $ Albanian$(or$Shqip)$is$an$IndoMEuropean$language$that$is$as$ unique$as$the$country$itself.$Despite$distant$links$with$ Romanians$and$some$borrowed$words$from$Turkish,$ Greek$and$other$Slavic$languages,$Albanian$doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t$really$ share$many$similarities$with$any$other$language.$Even$ though$it$has$adopted$some$Latin$script$and$has$a$36M letter$alphabet$with$7$vowels$and$29$consonants,$it$is$a$ tricky$language$to$learn$with$five$declensions$and$six$ cases.$$ $ Here$is$list$of$basic$words$and$phrases$to$help$you$bridge$ the$language$barrier,$get$you$into$mystical,$farawayMland$ mode$and$ease$the$sense$of$feeling$lost$when$surrounded$ by$an$unknown$language.$Although$an$increasing$number$ of$Albanians$speak$a$foreign$language$(Italian$and$Greek$in$ particular)$and$English$is$catching$on$fast,$any$efforts$to$ speak$the$language$are$always$appreciated$and$anyway$it$ can$always$be$fun$to$try$to$pick$up$a$new$language.$The$ words$and$phrases$listed$below$will$be$more$than$enough$ to$help$you$get$by$but$if$you$want$to$say$something$ specific$you$might$need$further$reference$points.$Go$on,$ have$a$go$yourself!$! $

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!!79!

1 2

Numbers

IMPORTANT SIGNS

One!! !

një$(nyeh)$

Toilet!!

Tualet$(twahMLEHT)$

Two! !

dy$(doo)$

Men! !

Burra$(booMrrah)$

Three!!

tre$(trehh)$

Women!

Gratë$(graMtuh)$

Four! !

katër$(kahPTUR')$

Entrance!

Hyrja$(hewrMyah)$

Five! !

pesë$(pehs)$

Exit! !

Dalje$(dahMlyeh)$

Six!

gjashtë$(jahsht)$

Push! !

Shtyje$(shtewMyeh)$

Seven!!

shtatë$(shtaht)$

Pull! !

Ndukje$(ndooMkyeh)$

Eight! !

tetë$(teht)$

Open!!

Hapur!(hahMpoor)$

Nine! !

nëntë$(nehnt)$

Closed!

Mbyllur!(mbewMlloor)$

Ten! !

dhjetë$(thyeht)$

Forbidden! !

Ndaluar!(ndahMlooMahr)$

njëqind$(nyahPCHEEND)$

njëmijë$(NYUHPmeePyuh)$

One!Hundred! ! One!Thousand! ! One!Million! !

80!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

një!milion$(nyeh1meeP LYOHN)$

!!The$Rest$>$Language$>$Numbers$

81!

1 2

Words & Phrases $ Yes! ! ! ! No! ! ! ! Please! ! ! Thank!you! ! Hello! ! ! !

! !

Po!(poh)!

Jo!(yoh)!

Ju!lutem!(yoo1looPtehm)! Faleminderit!(fahPlehmPmeenPdehP reet)!

! !

! Goodbye!

Mirupafshim!(meerPooPpahfP sheem)! Shëndet!(shuhnPdeht)$ The$first$is$‘good$bye$while$the$ second$is$more$informal,$along$the$ lines$of$‘bye$

! How!are!you?! ! ! Fine,!thank!you.!

82!

Tungiatjeta!(toonPjahPtyehPtah)! Tjeta!(tyehPtah)! The$second$is$more$informal$and$a$ lot$less$difficult$to$pronounce!$

Si!jeni?!(see1yehPnee?)! Jam!mirë,!faleminderit!(yahmP meer,1fahPlehmPmeenPdehPreet)!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!The$Rest$>$Language$>$Words$&$Phrases$

What!is!your!name?! $ My!name!is$______$ $ Pleased!to!meet!you$ $ The!bill$ $ $

$ Same!again!

$ Water$$

Si!e!ke!emrin?!(see1keh1ehmPreen)! Quhem$______$(chyooPhem$___)$ Më!vjen!mirë$(muh1vyehn1meer)$ Kontrolloni$(kohnPtrohlPlohPnee)$ A$handy$word$to$use$when$asking$ for$the$bill$without$having$to$ compose$a$sentence!$ Një!tjetër!raund$(nyah1tyehPtahr1 round)$ Useful$when$you$want$to$order$ another$beer$or$glass$of$wine$–$ just$point$to$your$drink(s)!$

$ I!don't!understand!$ $ $ $ Bathroom$ $

$ $

Ujë$(ooPee)$ This$will$be$bottled$mineral$water.$ Nuk!kuptoj$(nook1koopPtoy)$ Always$good$to$let$people$know$ you’re$not$trying$to$be$rude.$$ $ Tualet?$(twahPleht)$ Just$in$case$you$need$to$go$to$the$ loo!$If$there$are$no$signs$on$the$ door,$men$should$follow$burra$and$ women$should$head$for$gratë.$$ 83!

$ $ $ $ $ $ $

TIPS & TRICKS

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TIPS & TRICKS $

• Wear$sun$cream!$ • Its$traditions$of$hospitality$mean$foreigners$are$treated$with$ great$respect;$almost$all$Albanians$will$go$out$of$their$way$to$ help$you$if$you$are$lost$or$in$trouble$ • Pack$layers$and$a$couple$of$items$of$warm$clothing$for$the$ evenings$as$it$can$get$chilly$in$the$mountains$ • Eggs$come$in$packs$of$ten$rather$than$a$dozen$or$halfMdozen$ • Sheep,$sheep,$sheep$and$more$sheep.$And$the$odd$goat.$$ • You’ve$got$to$try$raki,$the$national$drink,$at$least$once$but$be$ careful$not$to$blow$your$head$off$–$it’s$powerful$stuff$ • Water$and$soft$drinks$are$served$without$ice$unless$ requested$ • You’ll$most$likely$encounter$lots$of$staring$but$don’t$be$ offended,$the$locals$are$just$interested$ • No$means$Yes$M$when$you$see$an$Albanian$shaking$their$head$ from$side$to$side$(something$we$consider$to$mean$‘no’),$this$ actually$mean$‘yes’$or$acknowledges$that$they$are$listening$or$ agreeing$with$you$ • Albanians$love$their$coffee,$which$is$served$in$Turkish$style,$ strong$and$thick$with$grinds$at$the$bottom$of$the$cup.$Some$ men$even$accompany$their$coffee$with$a$shot$of$raki!$ • There$are$two$things$you’ll$see$almost$everywhere$in$Albania$ –$Mercedes$cars$and$bunkers.$Strange$but$true!$ • Be$patient$with$the$service$in$bars$and$restaurants,$it$can$ often$be$slow$and$frustrating$ • Don’t$assume$that$plastic$bottles$contain$water$–$a$lot$of$the$ www.untravelledpaths.com$$ !

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locals$recycle$their$water$bottles$and$use$them$as$containers$for$ their$homeMbrewed$raki$which$might$give$you$a$bit$of$a$shock$if$you$ swig$from$the$bottle$without$smelling$the$liquid$first!$ You$might$come$across$the$odd$doll$or$teddy$bear$hung$outside$a$ local$house.$While$it$looks$a$bit$scary,$they$are$meant$to$ward$off$ evil$spirits$so$are$more$a$sign$of$good$luck$ Sometimes$prices$will$be$written$in$old$leks,$which$contain$one$ extra$zero.$This$is$normal,$and$the$actual$price$will$be$less$ If$a$local$offers$you$a$drink$M$or$even$to$pay$for$your$meal$M$you$ should$accept.$In$Albania,$it$is$considered$rude$to$reject$hospitality,$ and$Albanians$can$be$extremely$persuasive$ The$majority$of$Albanians$learned$how$to$drive$in$the$last$10$years.$ Keep$this$in$mind$when$crossing$roads!$ Credit$and$debit$cards$were$unheard$of$until$recently.$Although$ most$towns$now$have$ATMs,$and$increasingly$more$businesses$ accept$cards,$it$is$wise$to$carry$sufficient$cash$especially$in$the$ mountains$ Italian$is$the$most$useful$language$aside$from$Albanian.$In$the$ south,$many$Albanians$understand$Greek,$while$the$young$ generation$learns$English$at$school$ To$attract$attention,$Albanians$cluck,$hiss,$or$in$more$desperate$ cases$honk$madly.$ Albanian$grammar$affects$place$names.$Nouns$change$depending$ on$whether$they$are$used$as$subject$or$object$as$well$as$general$or$ specific.$For$example,$both$Valbona$and$Valbone$are$used.$The$first$ is$used$as$a$subject$or$for$a$specific$place$while$the$latter$is$used$as$ an$object.$The$same$goes$for$Shkodra$–$also$referred$to$as$Shkoder.$ Not$too$confusing$then!$ HomeMbrewed$raki$is$almost$three$times$as$strong$as$the$raki$you’ll$ find$in$the$shops$so$beware!$ !

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Mercedes are everywhere in Albania! 87!

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DID YOU KNOW?

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Perhaps$the$world’s$most$famous$Albanian$is$Mother$Theresa,$the$ Catholic$nun$who$worked$for$decades$in$the$slums$of$India.$She$ was$actually$born$in$Skopje,$now$the$capital$of$Macedonia,$but$she$ was$Albanian$in$ethnicity.$She$won$the$Nobel$Peace$Prize$for$her$ work$with$the$poor$and$the$sick$and$was$beatified$–$the$ penultimate$step$to$sainthood$–$in$2003.$She$died$in$1997$at$the$ age$of$87.$$ The$highest$point$in$Albania$is$Mount$Korab$(2,753$m).$ Albanians$trace$their$routes$to$ancient$Illyrian$tribes,$who$ occupied$the$western$Balkans$during$the$second$millennium$BC.$ Their$language$is$derived$from$Illyrian,$a$melange$of$Roman$and$ Slavic$influences.$ Albania$was$closely$allied$with$the$USSR$until$the$1960s,$when$it$ switched$allegiance$to$Communist$China.$ Under$Enver$Hoxha’s$dictatorial,$Stalinist$rule,$organised$religion$ was$banned$and$Albania$was$declared$an$atheist$state$in$1967$ under$a$MaoMstyle$cultural$revolution.$All$churches$and$mosques$ were$taken$over$by$the$state$and$by$1990$around$95$per$cent$of$ religious$buildings$had$been$destroyed$or$converted$into$other$ uses,$such$as$cinemas$and$warehouses.$Nearly$2,000$Catholic$and$ Orthodox$churches$were$destroyed.$More$than$100$Catholic$ priests$and$bishops$were$executed$or$died$under$torture$or$in$ labour$camps.$Hoxha$built$a$museum$of$atheism,$including$an$ exhibit$allegedly$portraying$Pope$John$XXIII,$who$led$the$Catholic$ Church$from$1958$to$1963,$dancing$the$twist$with$Soviet$leader$ Nikita$Khrushchev.$ Albanians$celebrate$their$independence$on$November$28.$$ One$of$the$strangest$features$of$Communist$rule$was$the$ construction$of$tens$of$thousands$of$concrete,$bombMproof$

www.untravelledpaths.com$$ !

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bunkers.$Scattered$around$the$countryside,$they$were$built$to$repel$ an$invasion$that$never$happened.$It$is$estimated$that$there$are$as$ many$as$750,000$of$them$–$one$for$every$four$Albanians.$ In$1995,$drivers$in$the$Albanian$city$of$Shkodra$refused$to$pay$a$new$ trafficMlight$tax$on$the$grounds$that$their$city$had$no$traffic$lights.$ Communist$rule$ended$in$the$1990s,$to$be$replaced$by$a$chaotic$freeM forMall$marked$by$rampant$corruption,$emigration$and$smuggling.$ Around$threeMquarters$of$Albanians$lost$their$life$savings$in$1996$ when$private$pyramid$investment$schemes$collapsed,$leading$to$riots$ by$rampaging$mobs.$ Albania$has$never$won$a$medal$at$the$Olympics.$ Tirana’s$forbiddingly$grey,$CommunistMera$housing$and$office$blocks$ were$brightened$up$by$Edi$Rama,$a$former$mayor$of$the$capital,$who$ ordered$them$to$be$painted$in$bright,$garish$colours.$ Nodding$your$head$means$'no'$and$shaking$your$head$means$'yes'$in$ Albania.$ McDonalds,$KFC$and$other$American$brands$like$Starbucks$don’t$exist$ in$Albania$although$there$is$an$AFC$in$Tirana$which$we$assume$stands$ for$‘Albanian$Fried$Chicken’?!$ There$are$27$words$for$mustache$in$Albanian$and$30$for$eyebrow.$ Before$1991,$only$Party$officials$were$allowed$to$own$and$drive$ around,$and$there$were$only$about$600$cars$in$Albania,$many$of$them$ deluxe$Mercedes$and$Volvos.$When$the$restriction$was$lifted,$ Albanians$brought$thousands$of$cars$into$the$country.$At$the$time,$ there$were$no$traffic$regulations,$no$driver’s$license$requirements,$no$ traffic$enforcement$officers$and$no$traffic$lights.$ Albania$is$one$of$the$largest$exporters$of$cannabis$in$Europe$ Bloods$feuds$and$sworn$virgins$(females$who$taken$on$the$social$ identity$of$men$when$their$family$lacks$a$male$heir)$still$exist$in$the$ Albanian$Alps.$$

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A ‘sworn virgin’ is a biological woman who takes on the social identity of a man. Only a handful of them remain.

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WITH THANKS

WITH THANKS ! We$hope$this$information$pack$has$been$useful$to$you$and$ we’d$love$to$know$what$you$think.$So$if$you’ve$noticed$any$ mistakes,$or$inconsistencies$then$please$do$get$in$touch$and$let$ us$know.$We’re$always$looking$for$feedback$too$so$if$you$think$ something’s$been$misleading$or$you$happen$to$stumble$upon$a$ little$gem$of$a$restaurant,$a$gorgeous$little$café$or$a$buzzing$bar$ that$you$think$deserves$a$mention$then$please$do$fill$us$in.$ We’re$sure$there$are$plenty$of$hidden$delights$we$have$yet$to$ discover!$Oh,$and$we$also$accept$positive$comments.! ! Enjoy$your$trip$and$keep$in$touch!$$ $ Team!UTP! ! $

Untravelled!Paths!Ltd! 24!Ferncroft!Avenue! London! NW3!7PH! $ $info@untravelledpaths.com$ $$020$7101$4061$ $www.untravelledpaths.com$ $ /UntravelledPathsLtd$ @untravpaths$

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TRIP DISCOUNTS

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TRIP DISCOUNTS !

Just$to$say$thank$you$for$travelling$with$us,$weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re$happy$to$ offer$you$a$10%$discount$on$any$other$Untravelled$Paths$ experience$within$18$months$of$your$trip.$Simply$let$us$ know$during$the$booking$process$but$please$note$that$this$ discount$is$not$valid$in$conjunction$with$any$other$offer.$ Take$a$look$online$for$some$inspiration$on$the$sorts$of$ experience$we$have$in$our$collection$and$if$you$enjoyed$ the$Albanian$Alps$Experience$we$reckon$youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d$love...$ $$ ! ! ! ! !

www.untravelledpaths.com$$ !

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office:$020$7101$4061$!$eMmail:$info@untravelledpaths.com$ web:$untravelledpaths.com!