The Danube Delta Experience eBooklet by marionkatrina

The

DANUBE DELTA EXPERIENCE

Booklet

The DANUBE DELTA EXPERIENCE Booklet

A warm welcome to the Untravelled Paths Danube Delta Experience Booklet on behalf of all the team! We do hope you’re excited about your upcoming escape to the wild natural paradise of the Danube Delta and we’re sure you’ll find the material in this pack both useful and informative in preparation of your trip as well as during your visit with us. If you’ve not yet touched down on Romanian soil, you’ll probably want to refer to the Basics section of the guide as this will brief you on the essentials for visiting, including changing money, what sort of weather to expect and insider tips and hints. For those that have already joined us off the beaten track, you’ll find recommendations specific to each destination on your trip, including information about what to see, where to eat and drink. We’ve also included a section on useful Romanian words and phrases to bridge that language barrier. Travel safe and travel fun! The UTP Team

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THE BASICS Fast Facts (4-5) Cash & Currency (6-9) Weather & Climate (10-11) Food & Drink (12-15) Preparation & Packing (16-17 Health & Safety (18-21)

CONTENTS

THE GUIDE Bucharest (22-51) Danube Delta (52-77) Wildlife (78-103)

THE REST Language (104-109) Tips & Tricks (110-113) Did You Know? (114-117) With Thanks (118-119) Trip Discounts (120-121)

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FAST FACTS

FAST FACTS Country: Capital: Time Difference: Area: Population:

Romania Bucharest GMT +2 hours 92,043 sq. miles (12th largest country in Europe) 19,651,000

Language: Romanian Religion: Christian Orthodox (81%) Ethnicity: Romanian 84%, Hungarian 6.1%, Gypsy 3.1% German 0.2%, Ukrainian 0.2% Dialling Code: Emergency Number: Electricity:

+40 112 (no code required) 220 volts; a standard continental adapter

Currency:

Leu (RON) (plural lei) ÂŁ1 = between 5 to 6 lei

Exchange Rate:

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THE BASICS Cash & Currency

CASH & CURRENCY Romanian Currency > Although Romania is a member of the European Union, it does not use the euro (€), but has its own currency - the RON / Leu. The official currency is most commonly referred to as the plural ‘lei’ although some banks and exchange offices list it as the RON. One leu divides into 100 bani with banknotes coming in various demoninations normally 1 leu, 5 lei, 10 lei, 50 lei and 100 lei and less commonly, 200 and 500 lei notes. Coins come in 50 bani and 10 bani pieces, which can be useful for small tips or donations. Currency Exchange > Lei can be difficult to get hold of outside Romania but fear not there are a few options for available. 1. Get it locally: The easiest option is to head to a cash machine once you’ve checked into your hotel in Bucharest to withdraw funds. There are plenty of ATMs around so it’s quick and convenient to get hold of your holiday cash just take note of the advice below. 2. Get it at home: If you’re absolutely set on getting your Romanian money organised before you travel, the Bureau de Change in M&S is, strangely, one of the only places that dispenses the local currency. 3. Get it online: You can also purchase currency online and collect it from your local post office or even have it delivered straight to your door. Ordering currency online with the Post Office is commission free and available for next day delivery. Obviously the more you buy the better rate you’ll receive. However you choose to get hold of your spending money, just make sure you either spend or convert your RON before you leave www.untravelledpaths.com

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Romania as you’ll have difficulty changing it once you’ve left. ATMs (Bancomat) > Withdrawing funds from a local cash machine is simple and convenient, and it’s how we choose to get hold of our cash when we’re in the country. There are a few things to be aware of though. During the withdrawal you’ll be offered two exchange rates, one from the local bank and another from your UK bank. Make sure you opt to take you UK bank’s exchange rate as it will be substantially better value. Please also note that most cash machines charge approximately £1.50 per withdrawal so use them sparingly. If you’re keen to avoid being charged, a new bank in London called Metro Bank offers accounts and cards that are free to use abroad both for cash withdrawals at ATMs and when paying on card machines. Avoid using the cash machines at the airport, instead wait until you’re in the centre of Bucharest. ATMs also have a habit of spitting out your cash first and your card second (unlike cash machines in the UK) so wait around until you have your card safely back in your hands before pocketing your cash and walking off! Credit/Debit Cards > Most major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard) are accepted throughout Romania’s main towns and cities. While you should have no problem using your card to pay for drinks or dinner in major towns and cities using your PIN number, some establishments accept cash only so it’s worth checking before you get settled in. It is also a good idea to carry some cash with you for smaller purchases and activities. It is always advisable to inform your bank that you’re travelling abroad in order to avoid the frustration of having your card blocked. Cash in the Danube Delta > Although cash machines are widespread across Bucharest and the rest of Romania, it would be wise to ensure you have enough local 08

The Basics > Cash & Currency

currency on you before you enter the Delta proper, as you’re highly unlikely to find cash machines in the small fishing villages. Don’t leave it later than Tulcea to withdraw funds – that’s your last guaranteed port of call for ATMs. It is also advisable to try to break big notes, as the locals only tend to accept small denominations so 10 and 20 RON notes are best. Tipping > Tipping is not obligatory in Romania although rounding up taxi fares and adding 10% in restaurants is polite and common practice. If the service has been poor please don’t feel obligated to leave a tip.

Budget > In order to give you some direction on how much spending money to budget for your trip to Romania, we thought it would be a good idea to offer some guidelines in terms of costs. As a general rule, you’ll be able to have a good lunch for around £8 a head and will pay around £12 a head for a nice evening meal. Naturally, the type of establishment you choose to eat in and what you order will dictate the cost of your meals. Be aware that ordering imported wines can cause your bill to skyrocket so drinking local wines is advisable. We reckon around £50 for lunch, dinner and drinks for two people is plenty per day. Please note that these are rough estimates and you can always choose to spend more or less depending on your budget. General Costs > The prices below for general items and sundries should give you a better idea of costs in Romania. Please note these are averages. Bottle of Water: 40p Pint of Beer: £1 - £1.50 Pack of Cigarettes: £2.50 MacDonald’s Big Mac: £2.30 Cinema Ticket: £3.40 www.untravelledpaths.com

THE BASICS Weather & Climate

WEATHER & CLIMATE Average Climate Statistics > Warmest month is July; coldest month is January; average annual rainfall is 26 inches; highest recorded temperature was 44.5°C in 1951 in South-Eastern Romania; lowest recorded temperature was -38.5°C in 1942. Danube Delta Climate > Thanks to its proximity to the Black Sea and the humidity emitted from the large surface area of water, the climate during the season in the Delta is predominately continental with lovely warm summers and long sunny days. In fact, with only 18 inches of rainfall each year you’re unlikely to encounter a drop of rain on your trip! However, despite the high temperatures in summer, it is highly advisable to pack some warmer items of clothing for the evenings, which can get a little chilly and also for days out on the boat to protect against any wind chill. Weather > Spring: one of the loveliest times of year to visit the Danube Delta as it corresponds to the migrations, the temperature is pleasant and the mosquitoes are yet to arrive along with the heat. However there is also a slightly higher risk of rainfall during this time. Summer: In the full swing of summer, visiting the Danube Delta in July and August affords long hot sunny days and blue skies but you’ll also have to deal with the mosquitoes. There are more crowds in the summertime than in spring or autumn but you’ll have lots of peace and quiet in the sleepy fishing villages of Crisan, Letea and Sfantu Gheorghe.

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THE BASICS Food & Drink

FOOD & DRINK Romanian Cuisine > As with its multi-cultural history, Romania’s cuisine has been heavily influenced by its Balkan neighbours and previous occupiers featuring a fusion of Hungarian, Germanic, Turkish and Slavic dishes including cabbage rolls (sarmale), stews (tochitura), and moonshine (tuica) that’ll put hairs on your chest! Food tends to be heavy but comforting with a strong emphasis on meat (mainly pork, chicken and lamb), and polenta (mamaliga) or potatoes (cartofi) but with the welcome addition of an abundance of vegetables either in salad form or soaked in vinegar for a sharp kick. Smoked meats and sausages are a national favourite, and Romanians love their sour cream (smantana) and pungent garlic based sauces, so you’ll have no problem fending off any unwanted vampires! Romanian meals typically kick off with a bowl of ciorba, soup soured with lemon juice or vinegar that comes in plenty of varieties including ciorba de burta (tripe soup) served with a hot pepper to nibble on. Must Try Food & Drink > Sarmale (Romanian’s national dish consisting of pickled cabbage leaves stuffed with mince and rice, usually served with a good dollop of sour cream) Mici (little sausage-shaped meatballs dipped in sweet mustard); Mamaliga (a cornmeal mush served as a side dish and often referred to as ‘polenta’ on menus); Tochitura (pork stew in a rich tomato or wine sauce served with polenta, sour cream, and a fried egg on top for good measure); Ciorba (staple sour soup that comes in a number of varieties); Salata de vinete (smoked, mashed up aubergine); Zacusca (a thick vegetable sauce made from aubergines, red peppers, and onions that is spread generously on a slice of

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bread); Papanasi (deep-fried doughnuts filled with jam or cottage cheese); Covrigi (the Romanian version of a pretzel typically sprinkled with poppy or sesame seeds); Tuica or palinka (the local firewater made from plums). Danube Delta Specialties > As you might expect, the local cuisine revolves around fish, the most common of which include carp, catfish and perch. You can find fried and grilled fish served with garlic sauce and fresh lemon juice pretty much everywhere and makes a delicious snack washed down with a cool beer. You’ll no doubt have the opportunity to try the traditional sour fish soup or ciorba de peste which is typically cooked with 10 to 15 species of small fish boiled with vegetables and water in a cast-iron kettle to make a broth that is served with big chunks of sturgeon, carp or pike and sprinkled with chili pepper or garlic. Afterwards, the saramura, prepared from big chunks of carp broiled on the stove or on a spit, is served with polenta and garlic sauce. In Sulina, make sure you try its very own unique pastry called merdenele de dovleac, which is a melt-in-the-mouth treat of cooked pumpkin in flaky pastry. Sweet Treats > Like the rest of the Balkans, Romanians like their cakes and desserts tooth-achingly sweet. Papanasi - fried doughnuts topped with sweetened cheese, jam and cream – are the country’s national treasure, and crepes (clatite) are a firm favourite dripping with chocolate, jam and fruits. You’ll see gogosi sold all over the place with street windows dedicated specifically to dolling out these donught-like snacks dusted with sugar or stuffed with fruit. During the festive season, cozonac (sweet bread jeweled with dried fruits and walnuts) and kurtoskalacs (cylinder of dough baked over a spit and coated with cinnamon sugar, often known as 14

The Basics > Food & Drink

chimney cake) take centre stage so make sure you get a fix if you’re lucky enough to be visiting at that time. Wine > With a long history of winemaking dating back over 4,000 years and the ideal Mediterranean climate and soil, Romania is one of the biggest producers of wine in Europe. From dry, sparkling whites to rich, aromatic reds, a wide variety of wines is produced here. The most popular domestic grapes include feteasca alba (semi-dry and balanced white) and feteasca neagra (semi-sweet, medium bodied, and light red). For top notch wines, look out for bottles originating from the Tarnave plateau (white), Cotnari (white), Dealu (red), Murfatlar, and Odobesti.

Firewater > Outranking wine and beer, the most popular and traditional tipple amongst locals is tuica and palinca - a type of plum brandy. Plums, and even apples or pears, are aged in mulberry tree barrels then double distilled to produce a seriously fiery liquor that Romanians knock back with startling ease. If you want a real challenge, down a shot of tuica or palinca without reacting! The most potent batches are home brewed, colourless, and stored in unassuming plastic bottles that could easily be mistaken for water so make sure you sniff the liquid before you take a large swig! You won’t make that mistake twice!

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THE BASICS Preparation & Packing

PREPARATION & PACKING Clothing > As you’ll be spending most of your time gliding around in boats under the beaming sunshine you’ll want to pack your summer wardrobe – think cotton t-shirts and light shorts. However, the evenings can get a bit chilly so packing a few layers such as long sleeved tops and trousers is a good idea and will not only keep you warm but will also protect you against insect bites, sunshine and any wind chill you might experience on the boat. If possible, try to keep your luggage to a minimum to make it easier to transfer your belongings from each location and doesn’t take up too much room on the boats! Essentials > • Binoculars – highly recommended if you’re interested in taking a closer look at the birds and wildlife present in the Delta – there’s only so close you can get in a boat! • Mosquito repellent or insect spray – crucial particularly during the summer when the mosquitos touch down in the Delta. Make sure you spray yourselves all over in the evenings and before you get into bed. It might also be worth packing some antihistamines to treat any pesky bites that you might pick up. • A hat and sunglasses – protection against the sun while you’re on the boat is particularly important and will also allow you to get a better look at the wildlife without too much sun glare. • Sun cream – with so much time in boats that tend not to provide cover from the sunshine, make sure you don’t leave home without some sun cream! • Daypack – this doesn’t need to be overly large, just something big enough to carry any essentials like binoculars, camera and a jumper with you on the boat when partaking in any excursions. www.untravelledpaths.com

THE BASICS Health & Safety

HEALTH & SAFETY Emergency Contacts > In the unlikely event you experience any problems whilst travelling in Romania with Untravelled Paths please contact Cristina Brebenel on +40732 673 853. She is an absolute super-woman so donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hesitate to contact her should there be a problem no matter how big or small. On arrival, you will be provided with a business card containing all the relevant contact details for both Cristina and your bi-lingual guide, should you need them. Alternatively, you can call the Untravelled Paths office on +44207 101 4061. Crime > Romania is not a dangerous country when it comes to crime and personal safety. As violent crime tourists is pretty much non-existent, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re highly unlikely to experience any problems during your stay here. However, applying basic common-sense rules should be sufficient in preventing instances of petty crime so avoid flashing any valuable items, and keep an eye on your camera, phone and wallet. Water > Tap water is safe to drink practically everywhere, but most people stick to bottled water to be on the safe side. We would highly recommend drinking bottled or filtered water during your stay in Romania. Stray Dogs > You might encounter a few stray dogs during your stay in Romania, particularly in Bucharest. The dogs are very unlikely to cause you any trouble, but if you encounter any sort of confrontation with stray dogs,

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try to remain calm and walk away slowly, avoiding eye contact. Smoking > Smoking in public places is officially prohibited in Romania. Having only recently been introduced (March 2016), the ban is very much a new and unfamiliar development for the locals, the vast majority of which are heavy smokers. Toilets > Public toilets in Romania aren’t particularly easy to find but your best bet would be to use the loo in hotels, department stores or fast-food restaurants. It is also advisable to carry some tissues around with you just in case you find yourself short! In case of any confusion, look for femei for women or barbate for men. Taxis > Taxi drivers in Bucharest have a deserved reputation for harassing and ripping off foreigners. All taxis have their tariffs plastered on the side, the standard rate is 1.39 Lei/km. DO NOT get in a taxi with a tariff over 2 Lei/km, ensure the driver switches his meter on before you set off, and use a reputable company like Speed Taxi (021 9477) and Meridian (021 9444). Alternatively, if you’ve got a smartphone you can download the Uber app, which tracks your location and sends a taxi straight to your door usually within 5 minutes or so! You don’t have to worry about the language barrier because you can type the address into the destination bar, and the fee is charged directly to your card so no need to fumble around for cash!

boat in the Delta, we kindly ask you to respect the environment by disposing of cigarette butts in bins rather than throwing them into the canals – you may see Romanians flicking them into the water but the consequences on the natural environment are serious. Sun Exposure > Summer in Romania sees the arrival of some pretty scorching weather with temperatures that can easily hit up to 40 degrees even in the evenings. The weather in the Danube Delta is no different and given the amount of time you’ll be spending out on the water with little cover from the sunshine it’s important to protect yourselves from the effects of sun exposure. All the usual precautions against heat stroke, sun stroke and sun burn should be taken including staying hydrated, regularly applying sun cream, and wearing loose and lightweight clothing as well as a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses. Bites & Stings > You’re likely to encounter a fair few mosquitoes and other insects during your trip to the Danube Delta particularly during the main summer months. You can reduce your risk of being bitten by applying insect repellent or wearing long-sleeved tops and trousers to cover up. If you do suffer any bites or stings a couple of antihistamine tablets with water and an application of hydrocortisone cream to the affected area will help symptoms. It can be difficult to access a pharmacy while you’re in the area so make sure you pack appropriate medical supplies just in case.

Environment > Please be respectful of the environment when you are visiting the Danube Delta. Pick up any rubbish you may have accumulated and keep the noise to a minimum. Should you choose to smoke on the 20

The Basics > Health & Safety

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BUCHAREST

SEE Palace of the Parliament (26-27) Revolution Square (28-29) Peasant Museum (30-31)

DO Bucharest City Tour (32-33) Red Panda Animal Shelter (32-35) Hidden Bucharest (36-37) Communist Bucharest (38-39) Midnight Bucharest (40-41) Escape Rooms (42-43)

EAT Caru cu Bere (44-45) Energiea (46-47) Lacrimi si Sfiniti (46-47)

DRINK

Biutiful (48-49) Bicicleta (48-49) Origo (50-51) Entourage (50-51)

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WHEN YOU SCRATCH BENEATH THE SURFACE, YOU’LL NOTICE THAT BUCHAREST IS A CITY OF STUNNING

CONTRAST

BUCHAREST

Imagine introducing a Communist dictator to Paris for 15 years, add an earthquake for good measure and you’ll end up with something similar to what you have in Bucharest. Fortunately much of Bucharest’s past beauty still remains and you’re likely to find it with every wrong turn you make. It’s a city full of surprises and it’s this contrast that makes it such a fascinating place to explore. At first glance the city might seem a little run down with remnants of its communist past on full view, however when you look a little closer and scratch beneath the surface it is a city of stunning contrast. In fact, it is the contrast that we love so much about Bucharest, its towering communist blocks sitting right next to the most beautiful buildings showcasing wonderful examples of belle époque architecture. You’re also likely to notice a few things other things in Bucharest — cars and dogs! Romania’s capital has an abundance of both. The latter being a sad after effect of Nicolae Ceausescu’s programme of systematisation, where he methodically moved families from their houses to purpose built communist blocks and often household pets had to be left behind. A lot of people seem to be intimidated or put off by Bucharest, but if you can get past preconceptions you might find yourself pleasantly surprised! The old district of Lipscani (pronounced locally as Lip-scan) is the beating heart of the city and our favourite place to wine and dine in the evenings. There are tons of quaint eateries and buzzing bars amongst the historic backstreets so take your pick.

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PALACE OF THE PARLIAMENT

SEE

Billed as the most famous and most controversial building in Romania from the legacy of Ceausescu, the extravagant Palace of the Parliament is well worth a visit. At 86m high and 92m deep, this grandiose structure is the world's second largest building behind the Pentagon and is where Romania's parliaments sits today. Commonly known as the People's Palace, the building contains a whopping 1,100 rooms that are spread across 12 floors both above and below ground level. Despite being home to Romania's Museum of Contemporary Art, the vast majority of the palace sits vacant and remains unused. If you decide you'd like to take the public tour of the building you’ll need to remember to bring your passport or driving licence with you, and it might be worth asking a member of the UTP team to make the reservation for you as opening hours can be a bit erratic. Inside you'll be greeted by offensively large marble-plated halls, enormous sweeping staircases and some rather out of place conference rooms. The trip onto the wide roof terrace is probably the highlight of the tour as it offers incredible views over the sprawling capital city. Please note that those wanting to take pictures will need to pay an additional fee for the privilege, which works out around £5. If your time in Bucharest is limited you'd be better off just taking a look from the outside to get an idea of the sheer magnitude of the building. For the most impressive shots, head over to Piata Unirii. Calea 13 Septembrie 1; Open Mon to Sun 10:00 – 16:00 (last tour at 15:15); 25 lei entry for a standard tour (around £5)

Bucharest > See > Palace of the Parliament

REVOLUTION SQUARE

Located just a ten minute stroll north of the Lipscani district, Revolution Square is a significant historical and cultural site that is an absolute must-see.

SEE

Renamed after the 1989 revolution, the square is home to some of the most beautiful buildings in Bucharest such as the Royal Palace, the University Library and the stunning Romanian Atheneum which showcases some stunning baroque architecture and is now used as an auditorium that is world renowned for its incredible acoustics. Aside from the impressive architecture and the bold statue of King Carol I, perhaps the most striking feature to grace the square is the extraordinary looking Memorial of Rebirth, which was built to commemorate the victims of the popular revolt against Ceausescu’s regime, which erupted in the square during the dictator’s final speech and led to the fall of communism. The memorial, which features a metal ball spiked on a 25 metre high marble pillar, has been described in various manners from the literal ‘olive on a toothpick’ to the more metaphorical ‘potato of the revolution’. We’ll leave you to make your mind up on the symbolism.

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PEASANT MUSEUM

SEE

If the weather isn’t pleasant enough for a trip around the Village Museum then head to the Peasant Museum and immerse yourself in the culture and traditions of the country’s peasant lifestyle over the past four centuries. Boasting a rich collection of artefacts, ceramics and textiles including traditional clothing, ancient religious icons and terracotta pottery, this original museum has received the honourable European Museum of the Year Award and is considered to be one of the best museums in the country. Spend an hour after lunch exploring the exhibitions at your leisure or purchase an audio guide for around £2. At least once a month, the museum hosts a range of craft fairs as well as puppet shows for children each Saturday and Sunday morning, both of which take place in the rear courtyard of the Peasant Museum’s beautiful red-brick building. Sos. Kiseleff 3; Open Tues to Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon; Admission 8 lei (around £1.50), 2 lei children

Bucharest > See > Peasant Museum

BUCHAREST CITY TOUR

Experience Bucharest on foot and let your guide help unravel the stories behind the eclectic mix of architecture and fascinating Communist history while you map stays in your pocket and the city. An interesting way to understand the country’s turbulent past and also a fantastic opportunity to help you get your bearings of the city. Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes Price: 60 RON (around £10)

RED PANDA DOG SHELTER

Bucharest’s problem with stray dogs has been rife ever since Communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu’s programme of systematisation was enforced and families were moved into purpose-built communist blocks, having to leave household pets behind. The situation has continued to worsen over the years and now there is an average of 1 stray dog for every 31 residents in Bucharest. The wonderful people at Red Panda Romania in Bucharest are desperately trying to do their bit by rescuing as many abandoned animals as possible, offering them shelter, food and TLC. Once the animals have been vaccinated and 32

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spayed or neutered, Red Panda works to find adoption or foster care for them. Some of the dogs at the shelter, however, still haven’t been adopted which means that spaces are limited and fewer animals can be taken in and looked after. Finding volunteers who will take some time out to visit the dogs and play with them is also difficult along with raising the funds to buy food, vaccinations and essential supplies. Adoptive and foster families are also highly sought after which is why James and Marion took in five abandoned puppies, five dogs, four cats and one very poorly kitten during their time in Bucharest until they could be re-homed. During the visit, you’ll be shown around the shelter, introduced to the animals and given the opportunity to play with them and give them some much-needed attention. The donation covers the cost of transport to and from the shelter with a guide and the rest is handed directly to Red Panda. Please let us know in advance if you’d like to visit – you’ll be doing a very good deed and we’re sure you’ll enjoy it! Duration: 1 hour 30 minutes Donation: 70 RON per person (around £10)

Further Info: If you’re looking for a puppy or a pet then you might find one here – the adoption process is seamless and all taken care of by Red Panda including micro-chips, vaccinations, passport and transport. Additional donations can be made online if you’d like to help via Paypal (donate@red-panda.ro). You can follow them on Facebook before you arrive and when you get home to see how the animals are doing. 34

Bucharest > Do > Red Panda Animal Shelter

HIDDEN BUCHAREST An alternative tour of Bucharest with a fresh twist Bucharest is a city of strong contrasts. A relatively young city with old mentalities; right at the gates of the Orient, hopelessly influenced by the West and belonging in fact to neither. The city has had it all: love, betrayal, conquering Russian tsarists, French Vaudeville, merchants of Venetian goods, Greek tragedies and one or two Great Fires for good measure. A miniature of Paris perhaps, only with much better weather. Street art, urban culture, history, architecture, hidden gems and other sweet delights – this is a tour with a twist.

During the tour you'll experience... • Quaint neighbourhoods full of history • Landmark and strange buildings • Belle époque and modernist architecture • 2 street art museums both indoor and outdoor • Hip hangouts frequented by locals including cool bars and cafes • Contemporary art galleries and boutique shops • The old park in Bucharest • Refreshment, street food snack and metro/tram tickets Duration: 3 hours Price: 90 RON per person (around £16)

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COMMUNIST BUCHAREST A driven tour of Bucharest’s blackest period Nowadays, Bucharest seems as normal and modern as the next big city with its western cars, designer shops and smartphones. Yet thirty years ago, it was a very dark place. Communism took over. One egotist dictator and his socialist ideals dealt the city a deadly blow. Depressing communist blocks invaded the skyline, interrogation dungeons sprung up all over the place, Securitate officers roamed the streets waiting to pounce on overworked and underfed residents, and beautiful houses were razed to the ground in order to build the huge eye sore that, ironically, was called the People's Palace. During the driven tour you'll experience... • Communist Party Headquarters and Division Five Building (most feared secret service division) • Bullets for Freedom - administrative buildings that still bear the mark of 1989 violence • Palace of the Parliament with unique access to the roof for a birdseye-view of Bucharest • Ceausescu's North Korean-inspired creation in Bucharest • "Bedroom quarters” and one of the famous Hunger Circles • Ceausescu’s house and the neighbourhood of the 'Golden Era's political elite • Refreshments and some staple Communist food

Duration: 4 hours Price: 110 RON per person (around £18) Notes: Max. 4 people per group 38

Bucharest > Do > Communist Bucharest

MIDNIGHT BUCHAREST A night tour of Bucharest’s underground party scene

Sometimes known as Little Paris, you could easily call Bucharest Little Berlin. 25 years post communism, the local bar and club scene is dynamic and filled with hedonistic Romanians who know how to party hard. Most tourists don't get an insight into the underground party scene here but with cozy little bars, kitsch relics of hood bars, colourful electronic clubs and unconventional hidden spaces blasting contemporary gypsy music, there's lots to experience in a night. No two tours are the same and each is tailored in relation to the specific events happening that evening as well as the preferences of the group.

During the bar and club crawl you'll... • Visit least 5 bars/clubs • Enjoy a complimentary first drink and discussion of your preferences for the evening • Have the opportunity to stay on at any of the locations or continue with the crawl

Duration: 3 hours approx. Price: 110 RON per person (around £19)

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ESCAPE BUCHAREST

A real-life escape game For something totally different, why not trap yourselves in a locked room for an hour. How do you escape? You’ll have to work as a team against the ticking clock to connect clues, solve puzzles and riddles and ultimately crack the code that will unlock the door to freedom! There are multiple escape rooms across Bucharest so if you’re interested in taking part we’ll find out which rooms are available at your preferred time of booking and let you know the options. Please note that prices vary according to number of participants and room type.

The optimal number of people per room is between 3 and 5. If you’re short on numbers, why not invite others from your group for the ultimate challenge in teamwork? Duration: 1 hour Price: from 45 RON per person (approx. £7)

Bucharest > Do > Escape Rooms

CARU CU BERE

EAT

Typically the first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest Caru’ cu Bere, literally The Beer Wagon, is a famous Bavarian style restaurant that dates back to 1879 and is worth visiting for the stunning interior alone, which boasts painted ceilings and ornate woodwork, the place is constantly buzzing with life. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings a well-known folk-song and dance ensemble will serenade you with traditional Romanian music and entertainment and although it can be a bit touristy, it’s also great fun. Appetizing traditional dishes are on offer, local wines are served and of course there is beer, plenty of beer. This isn’t a bad choice is you’re dead set on tucking into some authentic Romanian food and although the service can be a bit sketchy your meal will be cheap as chips! We love the old newspaper style menus and tend to choose the bean soup with smoked bacon and red onion to start then a variety of mixed platters to share so you get a taste of a variety of Romanian specialities. The Romanian pork shank served with pan-fried sauerkraut and polenta is excellent and don’t forget to order a shot of palinka to toast your meal! Due to its popularity, it can be worth reserving a table in advance although if you don’t manage to book, do stop at the bar for a local beer and to soak up the atmosphere first. Str. Stavropoleos 5; Open Sun – Thurs 08:00 – 24:00, Fri – Sat 08:00 – 02:00; ££ 44

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ENERGIEA Serving up gastro-pub style food including sticky ribs and their signature artisan burger alongside colourful salads and feel-good soups, the food matches Energiea’s funky atmosphere complete with industrial chic decor. For drinks, expect exotic smoothies, fresh juices, lemonades with a twist and all the usual alcoholic suspects. With Origo as its next door neighbour, this corner of old town Bucharest (still a firm favourite amongst all the new pop up bars and restaurants) should be on your eat, drink and be merry hit list. Str. Brezoianu 4; Open Mon – Sun 12:00 – 01:00; ££

LACRIMI SI SFINITI

EAT

This creative culinary hub fuses authentic flavour with contemporary flair to jazz up your everyday Romanian meal. Its bright, funky decor showcases furniture restored from ancient beams of wood alongside playful lego-made artwork. Traditional specialities are transformed into sophisticated dishes using local organic produce, which are stylishly served on boards of slate and in copper pans. Oh and the wine? That’s sourced from the owner’s country estate, who happens to be famous Romanian poet and revolutionary, Mircea Dinescu. Str. Sepcari 16; Open Tue to Sun 12:30 – 02:00, Mon 16:00 – 02:00; £££ 46

Bucharest > Eat > Energiea / Lacrimi si Sfiniti

BIUTIFUL Biutiful by name, beautiful by nature. Situated in leafy Floreasca overlooking the lake, this chic summer venue is a fabulous all rounder. Glamorous yet relaxed, there’s classy cocktails aplenty, a funky al fresco atmosphere, and finger friendly food with a touch of the exotic - think Vietnamese summer rolls, Thai salads with fresh mango, and Turkish kebabs alongside the classic American burger and fries. Biutiful is the ideal jumping off point for those looking to dip into the city’s vibrant nightlife scene. Only open in the summer from May until October, and you’ll need to grab a taxi to get there.

DRINK

Str. Glodeni 1-3; Open Mon to Sun 12:00 – 02:00 May to October

BICICLETA Tucked away on the second floor of a Lipscani building (up past the seedy looking club) this bicycle-themed bar is among the old town’s best kept secrets and is one of our favourite haunts. The long narrow bar is decorated with parts of old bikes and the stools are even made from bicycle seats with handle bars for arms. Draught beer is served in overturned green bottles and there are cocktails aplenty. On the weekends the DJ mixes up some cool tunes and the place really gets going. Str. Lipscani 38; Open Sun to Thurs 16:00 – 02:00, Fri and Sat 16:00 – 05:00

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ORIGO With truly top class coffee from all over the world, and enthusiastic baristas that know their beans and machines, this little gem may as well snap up the title for best coffee house in Bucharest. And its not just about the excellent coffee and contemporary design touches (watch out for the ceiling hanging coffee cups strung up over the bar), when the sun goes down, laid-back Origo transforms into a cool cocktail-cum-wine bar. Ready, steady, coffee! Str. Lipscani 9; Open Mon to Fri 07:30 – 02:00, Sat 09:00 – 04:00, Sun 09:00 – 02:00

DRINK

ENTOURAGE This is the sort of place you could lounge around in all day. From breakfast and brunch through to mid-afternoon coffees then cocktails in the evening, it’s funky and relaxed all at the same time. We adore the creative décor with its squashy leather armchairs, colourful hanging lamps and mishmash of stools and tables. It feels a bit like chilling out in a souped-up version of your own living room with its urban but intimate vibe. Str. Eugen Carada 5-7; Open Mon to Sun 10:00 – 02:00 50

Bucharest > Drink > Origo / Entourage

DANUBE DELTA

SEE Crisan (58-59) Sfantu Gheorghe (60-61) Letea (62-63) Tulcea (64-65) Sulina (64-65)

DO Sachalin Peninsula Pelican Excursion (66-67) Birdwatching (68-69) Kayaking (68-69) Fishing (70-71) Flying Fish (70-71) Sunset Boat Ride (72-73) Canoeing & Rowing (72-73)

EAT Fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lunch (74-75) Wild Beach Picnic (76-77)

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DANUBE DELTA

The mighty Danube River flows 1,788 miles from its springs in Germany’s Black Forest to the Black Sea. Just before reaching the Black Sea, it forms the second largest and best preserved of Europe's deltas and with 2,200 square miles of rivers, canals, marshes, tree-fringed lakes and reed islands it really is a naturelover’s paradise! Teaming with the highest concentration of bird colonies in all of Europe, the maze of canals bordered by thatch, willows and oaks entangled in lianas offers the perfect breeding ground for countless species of birds, some of them from as far away as China and Africa. Millions of Egyptian white pelicans arrive here every spring to raise their young, while equal numbers of Arctic geese come here to escape the harsh winters of Northern Europe. Some 300 species of birds make the Danube Delta their home and the best time to see them begins from early spring through to late summer. But birds are not the only inhabitants of the Delta. There is also a rich community of fish and animals from wildcats, foxes and wolves, to boars, deer and wild horses. Altogether, 3,450 animal species can be seen here as well as 1,700 plant species.

The Danube Delta Channels

TEAMING WITH THE HIGHEST CONCENTRATION OF BIRD COLONIES IN ALLOF EUROPE 54

The Danube Delta is comprised of an intricate network of waterways and lakes divided between the three main estuary channels of the Danube. Tulcea is located at the tip of the three channels and is the starting point from which you’ll explore... www.untravelledpaths.com

... the Delta. The channels or bratuls are named after their respective ports: Chilia (in the north), Sulina (in the middle), and Sfantu Gheorghe (in the south).

The Chilia Channel The Chilia Channel represents the youngest of the Danube Delta branches and extends 72 miles along the Ukrainian border with several villages scattered along its shores including the settlement of Chilia Veche, which used to be a Greek colony, stretches for some 72 miles along the border with Ukraine and has the greatest flow of water (approximately 60%) of the three arms. Interestingly enough, a few centuries ago the port of Chilia was located directly on the Black Sea and was vital in connecting Europe to the Orient while nowadays it lies more than 25 miles from the sea! The channel is also home to the Ukrainian village of Letea and its protected forest.

The Sulina Channel Stretching 42 miles from Tulcea to Sulina, the Sulina Channel is the shortest of the three bratuls encompassing the port of Sulina which, despite carrying only 18% of the total water flow in the Danube Delta, still represents the main navigation route for all through traffic. The fishing village of Crisan is also located on the Sulina Channel and was made accessible due to the canal that was dug up to ease river traffic between 1880 and 1902.

The Sfantu Gheorghe Channel Extending some 67 miles and carrying 23% of the Danubeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s total water flow, the Sfantu Gheorghe channel is home to a number of little fishing villages along its banks including the pretty village of Sfantu Gheorghe. 56

Danube Delta > The Channels

CRISAN A small fishermenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s village complete with traditional reed houses and surrounded by the sights and sounds of nature, Crisan is situated in the heart of the Danube Delta. With a few houses spreading over the right bank and a fishery on the opposite shore, it makes an excellent base for exploring the surrounding lakes and canals. There are plenty of opportunities to get involved with in and around Crisan including kayaking and fishing, as well as excursions to the nearby forests of the Delta. Those staying in Crisan overnight will be sleeping in the very comfortable Danube Delta Resort and will have access to all the amenities that go with it including a large swimming pool and a barbecue area where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll feast on freshly caught fish for supper.

SEE

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SFANTU GHEORGHE

SEE

Located in the far south-east corner of the Danube Delta approximately 1km from the mouth of the Black Sea, the charming fishing village of Sfantu Gheorghe is the perfect spot for some rest and relaxation and is the only village where you can glimpse both the Black Sea and the Danube at the same time. The more rural parts of the village are a delight to stroll around in the warm afternoon sunshine with their cheerful facades and freeroaming geese. Clusters of rainbow-coloured houses with traditional reed roofs burst to life surrounded by blue picket fences and hatches of chickens perched in front of quaint little gardens. Sfantu Gheorghe also boasts its very own wild beach that is completely deserted save for a few cows that parade along the shore. If you’re lucky you’ll even get to see herds of wild horses galloping along the beach but do be make sure the water is safe to swim in if you fancy a dip as the currents can be surprisingly strong despite the water not being deep. Be sure to try the famous black caviar or icre negre too while you’re here.

Danube Delta > See > Sfantu Gheorghe

SEE

LETEA Based right on the border with the Ukraine, the village of Letea is a fine example of traditional fishing villages in the area. With a total population of just 1,200 people, the remote settlement can only be accessed via the Deltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s narrow water canals making it extremely secluded and cut off from modern life. Spend some time wandering around the village admiring the quaint Lipovani houses made of wood, clay and reeds, and painted in colours of pea green, baby blue and white. The gardens overflow with sunflowers, grapes growing plump in the sunshine and lettuces peeping through the soil while farmers come and go on horses with their carts laden with hay for the animals. The atmosphere is tranquil and steady, a village forgotten by time. The Forest of Letea located a short drive away is home to oak, black poplar, ash and elm trees that are more than 500 years old and protected by law.

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TULCEA Aside from being the gateway to the Danube Delta, Tulcea doesn’t have all that much to offer which is why we try to get you in an out of the port in a jiffy! That said, it is a good idea to take advantage of the numerous ATM machines so you can withdraw any extra cash you may need over the next few days. If you do take money out, we recommend breaking larger notes (eg. 100 lei) on a coffee and midmorning snack at one of the many bars lining the port before you catch the ferry as locals in the Danube’s fishing villages will be unlikely to have sufficient change should you offer them a large note.

SULINA

SEE

By no means the most beautiful of ports, Sulina does provide a good opportunity to get yourself to dry land for a refreshing drink and a bit of a wander. Once an important and industrial port used by the Genoese, the town now makes it trade through tourism and fishing. We suggest heading straight to Peninsula Perla for a soft drink or a coffee then ambling along the promenade where you’ll come across the Greek Church of Saint Nicholas, which dates back to the nineteenth century. There are more bars and restaurants along the waterfront if Peninsula Perla doesn’t take your fancy. There’s also a supermarket halfway along where you can grab an ice cream before wandering back to the boat for the next leg of the journey.

Danube Delta > See > Tulcea / Sulina

SACHALIN PENINSULA PELICAN EXCURSION

Considered one of the most important spots for bird migration and breeding in the Danube Delta particularly for the resident pelicans, the Sachalin Peninsula is the point where the soft freshwater of the Danube Delta meets the Black Sea’s salty waters. The spit of land between the two is a pelican paradise and hosts the largest number of White and Dalmatian Pelicans in Europe. You’ll have plenty of time here to observe the flocks of these pelicans flying overhead or fishing in the shallow waters of the lagoon. For more information on pelicans please refer to the Wildlife Guide section of this booklet. After meeting your guide and a local fisherman by Sfanutu Gheorghe’s small port you’ll hop on to a boat and motor through the Delta’s narrow canals towards the seaside lagoon and peninsula of Sachalin. Don’t forget your camera and plenty of sun protection! Please note that this excursion is weather dependant so time and duration may vary. However, typically you can expect to be on the water for a few hours before you head back to Sfantu Gheroghe.

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BIRDWATCHING A wildlife paradise, this bird watching boat trip to Lumina Lake is the perfect opportunity to catch a glimpse of the Danube Delta’s vast species of birds. The route to the lake itself varies each and every time according to the changing channels that surround it and you can even take a dip in the clear waters of the lake if you’d like. 4 people minimum. Duration: 3 to 4 hours Location: Crisan Price: from 135 RON (around £20) per person

KAYAKING Take to the water in a kayak and experience the natural paradise of the Danube Delta at your own pace. The route takes you from Crisan all the way up to Sulina through some beautiful lakes filled with water lilies, reeds and willow trees. Without an engine you’ll be able to get a lot closer to the wildlife, winding your way through the narrow canals and peeping through the marshes for signs of cormorants, swans and pelicans. Basic training is included and you’ll be given an area map with route details and a bottle of water. Beginners will be offered a different route through calmer channels. Duration: 3 to 4 hours Location: Crisan Price: from 135 RON (around £20) per person 68

Danube Delta > Do > Birdwatching / Kayaking

FISHING Taking place between the channels of Sulina and Sfantu Gheorghe, this fishing trip gives you the opportunity to try your hand at some fishing for perch. This monster predator is also known as the ‘Sea Wolf’ because of its size and hunting behaviour. The biggest ever caught on record in the delta weighed in at a whopping 17kg, however it’s not unusual to pull in catches weighting between 6 to 8 kg! During the excursion you’ll also visit a traditional fisherman’s hut where you’ll gain an insight into local Danube Delta life and can participate in the ritual of shaking the nets. Prizes are awarded for the biggest fish caught and you’ll even be able to cook your catch for dinner. The trip includes fishing equipment and bait as well as a bottle of water to keep you hydrated. 4 people minimum.

Duration: 3 to 4 hours Location: Crisan Price: from 160 RON (around £25) per person

FLYING FISH Flying Fish? Yes, you read that correctly! We’ll take you out on an excursion to the Erenciuc area of the Delta by boat so you can witness the magical sight of the famous flying fish. Just make sure you remember to bring your video camera to capture the experience on film or you tales of flying fish might not be believed at home! Duration: 2 to 3 hours Location: Sfantu Gheorghe Price: from 150 RON (around £25) per person 70

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SUNSET BOAT RIDE Experience the panoramic sights and sounds of the Danube Delta at sunset when nature comes to life. We’ll whisk you out onto the water through the canals and lakes in the late afternoon in time for sunset and (hopefully) an explosion of golden colours and wildlife. Enjoy sundowners and some nibbles on the boat as you soak up the atmosphere before dusk finally falls. Duration: 3 hours Location: Sfantu Gheorghe Price: from 180 RON (around £30) per person

CANOEING & ROWING Paradise and a paddle. Take a rowing boat or canoe out into the twisting channels and waterways for an afternoon and enjoy the peace and quiet of the Danube Delta at your own pace. The only disturbance? Pelicans, herons and cormorants seeking out their supper. As with kayaking, you’ll be able to navigate yourselves a lot closer to the wildlife without the roaring sound of an engine disturbing the birds and the beasts. Duration: Half day Location: Crisan Price: from 90 RON (around £15) per boat

Danube Delta > Do > Sunset Boat Ride / Canoeing & Rowing

EAT

FISHERMANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LUNCH

Tuck into a traditional homemade lunch fit for hungry fisherman in a local home in the Ukrainian village of Letea. Piles of fresh fish will be served alongside the usual Romanian accompaniments including mountains of polenta and spicy garlic sauce. No doubt youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll also sample the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous sour fish soup (ciorba de peste), which is typically served with big chunks of sturgeon, carp or pike and sprinkled with chili pepper or garlic. Last time we ate here, we were served the most delicious freshly-baked Romanian doughnuts (papanasi) for dessert, still warm from the oven. As well as a good meal, this experience offers you an authentic insight into the traditional way of life in the Delta community, where the villages feel like remnants of an ancestral world and the local people make their living from fishing. Do take the opportunity to have a chat with your local host, using your guide to help translate and spend some time wandering through the village admiring the colourful Lipovani houses and bright gardens. Those interested in visiting Letea Forest with its ancient oak trees and sand dunes will have the opportunity to arrange a mini-excursion with a driver and guide from the village. You might even spot herds of beautiful wild horses roving the deserted plains.

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WILD BEACH PICNIC Stroll down to Sfantu Gheorghe's very own wild sandy beach along the Black Sea coast with a lovely picnic lunch for you to enjoy as you soak up the sunshine, dabble your feet in the water and take an afternoon to relax.

EAT

If you’re lucky you might even spot herds of wild horses galloping along the shore. That really is a sight for sore eyes! We’ll provide and pack up all your food and drink for you, all you need to do is let us know if you have any special dietary requirements or allergies and we will make all the necessary arrangements. Payment is taken on arrival in local currency.

Duration: 2 to 3 hours Location: Sfantu Gheorghe Price: 75 RON (around £12) per person

Danube Delta > Eat > Wild Beach Picnic

WILDLIFE

WILDLIFE With more than 300 species of migratory and resident birds including eagles, egrets, vultures, geese, cranes, ibises, cormorants, swans and pelicans, the Danube Delta is the ultimate birdwatchersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; paradise. In order to help you learn more about the different types of birds and how to spot them, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve put together a guide of the most important species in the Delta along with population figures, pictures and other information.

BIRDS Fish Eating Birds & Waders (80-87) Sea Birds (88- 91) Wildfowl (92- 93) Woodland Birds (94- 97) Raptors (98-99)

FISH Pike (100-101) Pike Perch (100-101) Carp (102-103) Cat Fish (102-103)

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FISH EATING BIRDS & WADERS

Herons, Egrets & Bitterns Herons and egrets are medium to large wading birds with long necks and legs while bitterns tend to be shorter-necked and more secretive. All fly with their necks retracted and their sharp bills help them to catch fish and amphibians. Many of the species nest in colonies, particularly favouring trees.

Little Bittern

Little Bittern Ixobrichus minutus Danube Delta Population: 3,000 – 3,500 breeding pairs The largest population of this species of heron resides in the Danube Delta. These birds are very elusive but often found in marshes or at the bottom of reed beds, which can make them quite difficult to spot. You won’t have any trouble hearing them, however!

Great White Egret

Great White Egret Egretta alba Danube Delta Population: 320 – 360 breeding pairs Easily recognized by its extremely long neck and legs, the Great White Egret nests in mixed colonies with other egrets and herons including the Purple Heron. It typically feeds on fish, frogs, insects and even snakes while during the drier months it tends to stalk small mammals and snails for food. Back in the late nineteenth century, the beautiful breeding feathers of these birds were in high demand for hat decoration!

Purple Heron

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Danube Delta Population: 230 – 450 breeding pairs 80

Wildlife > Birds > Fish Eating Birds & Waders

These shy and solitary birds tend to be out and about hunting at night time or during the early morning. Instead of wading into deep water to hunt, their strategy is to stay undercover and remain motionless for long periods of time until their prey makes an appearance. Their long necks give them powerful reach and their slim bills are strong enough even to kill large snakes! Little Egret Egretta garzetta Danube Delta Population: 1,700 – 2,500 breeding pairs A migratory species of heron protected by law, the small egret lives in marshy areas and nests in small willows and is most commonly seen from April through to October. You’ll recognize it by its long black legs, slim black bill and all-white plumage. During the breeding season the adult male sports two long nape plumes and the eyes become red or blue. Feeding on fish, insects and amphipians, these egrets stalk their prey in shallow water often running with raised wings, shuffling their feet to disturb small fish or standing still waiting for the right moment to ambush their next feed. Little Egret Squacco Heron

Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Danube Delta Population: 2,000 – 2,400 breeding pairs A rare sight in Europe, the squacco heron is commonly found in the delta. This stocky species has a short neck, thick bill and browncoloured feathers. However, its appearance is transformed in flight when its wings are spread to reveal a flash of white. The squacco heron loves marshy wetlands and warm climes so you’ll probably be able to locate it nesting in small colonies on platforms of sticks in trees or shallower waters. www.untravelledpaths.com

Ibises & Spoonbills The ibises and spoonbills are a family of large terrestrial and wading birds both of which have long, broad wings making them strong fliers and soarers despite their size and weight. While ibises have long, curved bills, spoonbils have a more flattened bill that is wider at the tip. There are 36 worldwide species, 2 of which are found in the Danube Delta. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Danube Delta Population: 2,000 – 3,200 breeding pairs More than 30% of the European population nests in the reed beds of the Delta, especially during the warmer months of the year when it becomes one of the most commonly sighted birds. Breeding in mixed colonies of herons and cormorants, the glossy ibis are easily identified by their dark plumage and you’re most likely to spot them flying overhead in a ‘V’ formation with their necks outstretched. If you get a little bit closer you might even be able to catch a glimpse of the iridescent shimmers of green and taupe that give the bird its name.

Glossy Ibis Spoonbill

Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia Danube Delta Population: 360 to 440 breeding pairs The first thing you’re likely to notice about these creatures is the flattened, spoon-shaped beak that gives the spoonbill its name. Coloured mostly white like an egret but with fatter bodies, this bird has dark legs, a yellow-tipped black bill and a faded yellow breast patch like a pelican. When feeding, the spoonbill will swing its head around sweeping its bill from side to side through the water. Look out for these birds amongst the shallow marshes where they prefer to inhabit.

Wildlife > Birds > Ibises & Spoonbills

Stilts & Kingfishers Like ibises and spoonbills, stilts are also in the wader family and have extremely long legs and thin straight bills. Kingfishers, on the other hand, are fish-eating birds boasting beautiful electric colours and sharp fishing skills.

Black-Winged Stilt European Kingfisher

Black-Winged Stilt Himpantopus himpantopus Danube Delta Population: 1,400 – 2,200 individuals You’ll find dozens of these waders in the shallow pools around the Delta or even gliding overhead, recognisable by their very long red legs and contrasting white and black feathers. You’ll also be able to identify the bird by the manner in which is waders through the water, raising each foot above the surface then placing it down into the water in an elegant if not staccato fashion. They can make themselves very tricky to detect if they sense danger approaching by squatting close to the ground and remaining completely still. European Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Danube Delta Population: 1,500 – 1,700 breeding pairs With its electric cobalt blue and bright neon orange feathers, the beautiful iridescent plumage of the kingfisher makes it one of the most colourful and instantly recognisable birds despite the fact that it is rarely seen due to its shy nature. You’re most likely to catch a glimpse of it as it flies low over water with its short rounded wings whirring rapidly. The sparrow-sized bird feeds mainly on fish, as its name would suggest and even has special visual adaptions to enable it to see its prey under water. While the kingfisher has no song you might well hear its flight call which consists of a short sharp whistle repeated two or three times.

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Pygmy Cormorant

SEA BIRDS Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus Danube Delta Population: 2,500 breeding pairs One of the rarest birds in the world, the Pygmy Cormorant is fairly common in the Delta and you’re likely to come across a fair few. The area is home to the largest population of these birds at an impressive 61%. Unfortunately, being a great fish consumer and destroyer of fishing nets, these birds are often persecuted by fishermen particularly here in Romania where the actions of humans put the pygmy cormorant on the International Union for Conservation of Nature red list as a vulnerable species. Like egrets, herons and spoonbills, it likes pools with plenty of vegetation. Plumage colouration varies with the majority having mainly dark plumage.

Caspian Tern

Terns These medium to large sea birds tend to hunt fish by diving into the water or picking insects off the surface. Terns typically have grey or white plumage often with black markings on the head and can live in excess of 25 years with 44 different species over the world. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia Danube Delta Population: 120 – 140 individuals This migratory bird is most commonly sighted during the spring and early autumn migrations when flocks gather in the delta from August to October.

Whiskered Tern

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus Danube Delta Population: 2,300 – 2,500 breeding pairs 88

Wildlife > Birds > Sea Birds

The most common of the terns, you’re most likely to catch a glimpse of these birds in the smaller channels of the delta where the waterways become increasingly narrow. They often nest in the particularly marshy areas in mixed colonies alongside other terns including the black tern and the white-winged black tern. Pelicans Pelicans are large water birds recognisable by the distinctive pouch that sits underneath their beaks. They have webbed feet with 4 toes and have 8 different species worldwide, 2 of which are found here.

Dalmatian Pelican

White Pelicans

Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus Crispus Danube Delta Population: 320 – 410 breeding pairs After decades of decline, the numbers of the largest and rarest pelican in the world have slowly begun to increase in the natural habitat of the delta, which now hosts 5% of the population. You can spot them from April all the way to October, and some pairs may even stay over the winter. If you see a single pelican or small numbers of pelicans in the delta, it is more likely to be a Dalmatian pelican than a White pelican, the latter of which tend to flock together in large groups. White Pelican Pelecanus Onocrotalus Danube Delta Population: 3,560 – 4,160 breeding pairs Home to Europe’s largest colonies outside of Africa, the Danube Delta holds a whopping 50% of the world’s entire breeding population of this bird. It is also the only place in Europe where the White Pelican can be spotted in the wild especially in March when swathes of pelicans leave the Nile Delta and the Red Sea to come and nest here. Much more numerous than the Dalmatian pelicans, you’ll see a lot of these birds either flying overhead in large numbers or feeding in tight groups on the lakes.

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The Artist Ferruginous Duck

Wildfowl Modified for an aquatic existence with webbed feet, flattened bills and feathers that are excellent at shedding water due to their oily coating. You’ll find plenty of wildlife here including duck, geese and grebes. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca Danube Delta Population: 3,800 – 4,200 breeding pairs The Danube Delta may well be the last place in Europe to spot this declining species, which holds the largest population of ferruginous duck. Resident all year round, they are best seen in August and September when large numbers often gather at Somova Lake just west of Tulcea.

Red-Crested Pochard

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina Danube Delta Population: 540 – 2,470 individuals Not so easy to spot during the summer months, the northern populations of red-crested pochard congregate on the Delta’s lakes during the wintertime, making a wonderful sight for visitors. Red-breasted Goose Branta ruficollis Danube Delta Population: 7,000 – 24,000 individuals During the winter, these exotic European geese flock to the Delta’s lagoons and coastal plains in droves and can attract as much as 90% of the world’s population. Easily recognisable with its deep red neck and breast, charcoal-coloured back and bright white stripes, this beautiful bird is legally protected but continues to be ruthlessly hunted.

Red-Breasted Goose

Red-necked & Black-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena/nigricollis Danube Delta Population: 6,000/7,000 individuals Commonly sighted amongst the larger lakes and canals of the Delta, the largest population of Europe’s red-necked and black-necked grebe are found right here in the Danube Delta. Look out for them in particularly marshy areas.

Red-Necked Grebe

Wildlife > Birds > Wildfowl

Bee Eater

WOODLAND BIRDS Bee Eater Merops Apiaster Danube Delta Population: 30,000 One of the most common species in the Delta, this beautiful bird is bee-eater by name and bee-eater by nature, consuming some 250 bees every day and even feeding on pesky wasps! Before it eats the insect, the bee-eater removes the sting by repeatedly hitting it against a hard surface. With its stunning array of rainbow-coloured feathers it is easily one of the most colourful birds in the area along with the European Roller and certainly not a species you’d expect to come across in Europe. The male feeds large insects to the female during courtship while both the make and female take care of the eggs during the breeding process. Males are monogamous and the call is a pleasant distinctive trill.

Grey-Headed Woodpecker

Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus Canus Danube Delta Population: 70,000 Easily confused with the Green Woodpecker this woodpecker is one of the loudest of them all and can be found nesting in the Danube Delta in large numbers. Look out for pairs of them in the more mature willow trees along the water channels. It is green on top and pale grey underneath with a yellow rump. Its grey head sports a black moustache and you’ll know if you’ve seen a male with its distinctive red crown.

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European Roller Coracias Garrulous Danube Delta Population: 360 – 420 breeding pairs Now a rarely spotted bird across Europe, the largest population of the European Roller is found in the Delta with hundreds of pairs breeding in the lowlands. Its flamboyant electric blue and rusty-orange feathers make it easily recognisable and utterly exotic and they often perch on trees watching for large insects, rodents and frogs that they can feed on. The roller gets its name from the manner in which it twists and turns during flight and you’ll recognize its call by its harsh, crow-like sound. In fact, they are very similar to crows in size and build as well as sound – they are just a lot more colourful and exotic!

Cuckoo Cuculus Canorus Romania Population: 300,000 There’s little chance that you’ll leave the delta without having heard the distinctive call of the cuckoo on numerous occasions. With the largest population of the species in Europe, you’ll hear them everywhere especially during the spring, and you’ll probably spot a few here and there perched on the branches of a willow tree. Enjoy the chirpy company of this bird, as you won’t find them often in Britain where the breeding population of cuckoos is suffering terribly. Interestingly enough, the cuckoo tends to sing in absolute pitch in the key of C during the breeding season, while in June it forgets its regular tune and makes different calls in ascending intervals.

Wildlife > Birds > Woodland Birds

European Roller Cuckoo

RAPTORS

Falcons & Eagles With strong legs and powerful talons that help them to kill their prey, eagles have hooked beaks for tearing flesh. Falcons on the other hand, kill their prey with their beaks instead of using their talons.

White-Tailed Eagle Red-Footed Falcon

White-Tailed Eagle Haliaeetus Albicilla Population: 50 Europe’s largest eagle resides in the Danube Delta all year long. It measures 66–94 cm in length while its wingspan which measure a whopping 1.78–2.45m on average is the largest of any eagle in the world. During the winter months, the northern population of the species make an appearance and can often be seen around the lakes of the Delta in groups of up to 10. In the summer, your best bet of catching sight of the eagle is by keeping an eye on large raptors hovering over marsh or forested areas. You might even spot a nest or two. Red-Footed Falcon Falco Vespertinus Population: 900 While the Red-footed falcon can be seen in huge colonies, you’re most likely to spot this species in pairs over rookeries, flying over forested areas of the Delta, or perched in waterside trees. Despite being rare in Europe as a whole, this species of falcon is abundant in the Danube Delta so make sure you get a good look! In terms of distinguishing features, the adult male is all blue-grey, except for his red undertail and legs while its under-wings are uniformly grey. The female has a grey back and wings, orange head and under parts, and a white face with black eye stripe and moustaches. www.untravelledpaths.com

FISH The Delta’s waters are teeming with some 160 species of fresh- and salt-water fish. Below you’ll find some general information on the various types of fish you can expect to find in the Delta along with their Romanian translations. The season is also indicated and relates to the months throughout which fishing of a particular species can take place. Fishing is forbidden outside of these months as the timing correlates to the reproductive cycle of the species. If you’re interested in getting involved with some fishing during your trip take a look at the DO part of the Danube Delta section of this booklet for more information on our fishing excursions. Pike (Stiuca) This monster predator is also known as the ‘Sea Wolf’ in the Danube Delta due to both its size and hunting behavior. The fish is perfectly camouflaged in the sub aquatic vegetation and lies in wait until its prey approaches after which it strikes with lightning speed. The biggest pike ever caught on record in the Delta weighed in at a whopping 17kg, however it’s not unusual to pull in catches weighting between 6 to 8 kg! Pike fishing is forbidden during the reproduction period from the beginning of February to the end of March. Location: Lake Fortuna, Sontea Channel, Holbina area, Bogdaproste, Lake Rosu, Lake Lumina, Uzlina area Season: Early July to December

Fisherman and his nets in Crisan

Pikeperch or Zander

Pike Perch (Salau) Also known as ‘zander’, the pikeperch resembles both of its named counterparts and prefers clean and deep waters. The record for the largest fish of this kind caught in the Danube Delta weighed in at 16kg on Razim Lake but fisherman commonly haul in fish weighing between 100

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Huge catfish caught in the Danube Delta weighing 33kg

2 and 3kg. Location: Channel 5, Lake Sinoe, Sfantu Gheorghe village area Season: June to September Carp (Crap) Reaching up to 45kg in weight, the wild carp in the Danube Delta are of huge appeal to fishing enthusiasts all over Europe. You’re most likely to catch a carp between 7 and 10kg but pulling in a 12 to 22kg fish isn’t unheard of. Given that these fish favour waters with plenty of coverage, you need to ensure you have the right equipment just in case you haul in a monster! Fishing for carp between April and June is forbidden. Season: Early July to September Location: Sontea Channel, Sfantu Gheorghe Branch, Dunarea Veche, Chilia Branch

Catfish (Somn) These are the biggest fish you’ll come across in the Danube Delta. The largest ever recorded in the area was 400kg but fisherman often catch fish that weigh between 5 all the way up to 20kg. Commonly found in the deeper waters of the delta, these fish without scales are best caught in June as soon as the reproduction period has finished and the ban on fishing has been lifted. Those even considering fishing for catfish will need the strongest of rods and more than 200m of reel! Location: Sulina Branch, Chilia Branch Season: April and July to October

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LANGUAGE

ROMANIAN

Based on previous feedback, we decided to add a list of basic Romanian words and phrases to help you bridge the language barrier, get you into mystical, faraway-land mode and ease the sense of feeling lost when surrounded by an unknown language. Of course, there will always be our bilingual guide with you so you shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t run into any difficulties, and English is widely spoken, particularly by the younger generation, but it can always be fun to try to pick up a new language. As a Romance Language, those who have a broad understanding of French or Italian will probably find that they can understand a fair bit of Romanian so it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel completely alien. In parts of Transylvania, German is also understood, if not spoken. Overall, we reckon the Romanian language sounds like a mixture of Italian and Russian and is pretty pleasant to listen to. The pronunciation guide and the words and phrases listed over the following few pages will be more than enough to help you get by but if you want to say something specific, ask your guide. Go on, have a go yourself!

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PRONOUNCIATION

NUMBERS

The Romanian alphabet uses 31 letters which are similar to the letters found in the English alphabet apart from the additional 5 special letter that are known as 'diacritics': ă - ș - ţ - â – î.

One

unu (oo-noo)

Two

doi (doy)

Three

trei (tray)

Four

patru (pah-troo)

Five

cinci (cheench)

Six

şase (shah-seh)

ă – like ‘e’ in father

Seven

şapte (shahp-teh)

e – like ‘e’ in tell

Eight

opt (ohpt)

Nine

nouă (noh-uh)

Ten

zece (zeh-cheh)

Certain letters and combinations of letters are pronounced differently to the way they would be in the English language. The information below should help you to pronounce the letters that are different to our own correctly so that you can learn how to put together words and phrases properly.

i – like ‘i’ in pick j – like ‘su’ in leisure

IMPORTANT SIGNS

ş – like ‘sh’ in shoe ţ – like ‘ts’ in fits ce – like ‘che’ in check

Men

Bărbaţi (buhr-bats)

gi – like ‘gi’ in gin

Women

Femei (feh-mey)

ge – like ‘ge’ in gender

Entrance

Intrare (in-tra-re)

chi – like ‘ki’ in skill

Exit

Ieşire (ye-shi-re)

Open

Deschis (dehs-kis)

Closed

Închis (yn-kis)

che – like ‘che’ in chemistry ghi – like ‘gi’ in give ghi – like ‘gue’ in guess

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WORDS & PHRASES

Same again

Yes

Da (dah)

Cheers!

Nu (noo)

Please

Vă rog (vuh-rohg)

Thank you

Mulţumesc (mool-tzu-mesk) If in doubt, just say mersi, it’s informal and easy to remember! Just imagine you’re in France.

Hello

Salut (sah-loot) Like the French – easy.

Goodbye

La revedere (lah reh-veh-deh-reh) Pa is also used and is less of a tongue-twister. You can say ciao too if you’re stuck!

Good day

Bună ziua (boo-nuh zee-wah) You can always just nod and say ‘buna’ if it’s too much of a mouthful

Good evening

Bună seara (boo-nuh syah-ruh) Very much like the Italian – buona-sera.

How are you?

Ce faci? (cheh fahtch)

Fine, thank you.

Mulţumesc, bine (bee-neh) Bine also means ‘good’ or ‘okay’.

The bill

Notă (no-ta) A handy word to use when asking for the bill without having to compose a sentence!

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Incă un / una Useful when you want to order another beer or glass of wine – just point to your drink(s)! Noroc! (nor-ock) Use this when you’re being encouraged to drink polinka. It literally means ‘good luck’ – you’ll need it!

Here

Aici (ah-ee-ch) Use this in a taxi when you want the driver to pull over.

Still water

Apă plată (ah-puh plah-tah) If you ask for mineral water it will be fizzy.

I don't understand

Nu înţeleg (noo oohn-tzeh-leg) Always good to let people know you’re not trying to be rude.

Bathroom

Toaleta? (oon-deh yeh twah-leh-tah) Just in case you need to go to the loo!

I love you

Te iubesc (teh yoo-besk) Probably best not to use this on strangers but p erfect for romantic brownie points!

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TIPS & TRICKS

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Wear sun cream! Be patient with service in bars and restaurants, it’s often slow and frustrating Romanians like their coffee strong, black and incredibly sweet. You have been warned! Wifi is widely available and free so log yourself on and connect The Romanian beers are called Ursus and Ciuc You’ve got to try tuica, the national drink, at least once but be careful not to blow your head off – it’s powerful stuff It’s not uncommon to hear English spoken in an American accent by the younger generation of Romanians as there is so much American TV around! Stews and bean soup are a safe bet for food and if in doubt, go for snitzel Condiments are ordered and charged for separately so you’ll need to let your waiter know if you want butter, ketchup etc. If you don't want bread, say so or it will be brought to your table and added to your bill Water and soft drinks are served without ice unless requested Avoid using ATM machines that are not attached to bank, you’ll

•

get a terrible exchange rate If the language stumps you, you can easily fall back on these

• • •

TIPS & TRICKS

• • • •

• • •

basic French and Italian words: salut (hello), merci (thanks) and ciao (bye)

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•

• • •

•

• •

•

Only get in taxis that have 1.39 on the side, make sure the meter is on and don’t agree on a price before you set off as you’ll get ripped off! Don’t spend more than a few lei on a taxi ride around town in Bucharest Museum entry is cheap but if you want to use your camera you’ll have to pay a rather outrageous fee for the privilege. Don’t be surprised if an older shopkeeper quotes you an extortionately high price for a bottle of water – the older generation add zeros Tipping is not obligatory in Romania although rounding up taxi fares and adding 10% in restaurants is polite and common practice. Don’t turn your nose up at the pastries and sandwiches in the petrol stations, they’re much nicer and fresher than you think! Don’t bother looking for your seatbelt in taxis, you’ll be hard pressed to find a Romanian taxi that provides fully functioning ones Wine mixed with sparkling water (șpriţ) is popular in the summer so don’t be surprised if you waiter asks if you’d like some water mixed in with your wine Try to keep small denomination notes like 1 leu and 5 lei handy for small shop items, cafes or tips. Getting change for the 100 lei notes that cash machines tend to dispense can be tricky YOU’VE GOT TO TRY TUICA, THE NATIONAL DRINK AT LEAST ONCE

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DID YOU KNOW?

• Romania comes from the Latin ‘Romanus’ meaning ‘citizen of the Roman Empire’ • Romania is roughly the same size as the United Kingdom – 92,043 square miles • The Carpathian Mountains are home to one of the largest undisturbed forests in Europe as well as 60% of Europe’s Brown Bear population • Timisoara was the first city in Europe to have electric • • • • •

street lights in 1889 The Palace of the Parliament in Bucharest is the second largest building in the world The fountain pen was invented by the Romanian, Petrache Poenaru, in 1827 Transylvania translates to ‘the land beyond the forest’ Peles Castle was the first in Europe with electricity and central heating Romanian gymnast, Nadia Comaneci, was the first to

achieve a perfect score of 10.00 in the history of gymnastics during the Montreal Olympics in 1976 • The tallest wooden church in the world is in Maramures, north of Romania • Brasov is home to the narrowest street in Europe – Strada Sforii (The Rope Street) is approximately four feet wide 115

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• Brasov is home to the narrowest street in Europe – Strada Sforii (The Rope Street) is approximately four feet wide and was initially used as an access-route by firefighters • Hollywood movie Cold Mountain was filmed in Romania’s Carpathian Mountains starring Jude Law, Renee Zellweger and Nicole Kidman • The ASTRA Museum in Sibiu is the second largest outdoor museum in the world • The 1920s ‘Dada’ movement (Dadaism) was co-founded by Romanian artists Tristan Tzara and Marcel Iancu • On March 1 Romanians celebrate the beginning of spring in their own unique way. To show their respect, men and boys offer their female loved ones a ‘Martisor’ (small trinkets attached to a red/white lace – red for love, white for honesty) • The real Dracula (Vlad Tepes or Vlad the Impaler) was a Romanian prince and military leader who fought the Turks in the Middle Ages. Count Dracula the vampire was created by Irish writer, Bram Stoker in 1897 • The Romanian language is spoken by over 25 million people and is 1,700 years old • Brasov is home to the largest gothic church east of Vienna which not only holds the largest organ in Europe with 4000 tubes but also houses the largest bell in Romania, weighing in at a whopping 6.3 tons • The jet engine used by modern airplanes was invented by Bucharest-born aerodynamics pioneer Henri Coanda

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THE TALLEST WOODEN CHURCH IN THE WORLD IS FOUND IN MARAMURES

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WITH THANKS

We hope this booklet has been useful to you and we’d love to know what you think. So if you’ve noticed any mistakes, or inconsistencies then please do get in touch and let us know.

WITH THANKS

We’re always looking for feedback too so if you think something’s been misleading or you happen to stumble upon a little gem of a restaurant, a gorgeous little café or a buzzing bar that you think deserves a mention then please do fill us in. We’re sure there are plenty of hidden delights we have yet to discover! Oh, and we also accept positive comments. Enjoy your trip! The Untravelled Paths Team KEEP IN TOUCH: Untravelled Paths 24 Ferncroft Avenue London NW3 7PH www.untravelledpaths.com info@untravelledpaths.com 0207 101 4061 Facebook: /UntravelledPaths Twitter: @untravpaths

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TRIP DISCOUNTS

Just to say thank you for travelling with us, we’re happy to offer you a 10% discount on any other Untravelled Paths experience within 18 months of your trip. Simply let us know during the booking process that you’re a UTP super client but please note that this discount is not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Take a look online for some inspiration on the sorts of experience we have in our collection and if you enjoyed the Danube Delta Experience we reckon you’d love...

THE ALBANIAN ALPS EXPERIENCE Get a slice of rural life in the untouched mountains landscapes of the Albanian Alps.

THE DOLCE VITA EXPERIENCE Taste the real Italy with cooking classes, olive oil tasting and pasta making in Puglia.

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office: 020 7101 4061 Â&#x2014; e-mail: info@untravelledpaths.com web: untravelledpaths.com