The Sahara Desert Experience eBooklet by marionkatrina

THE

SAHARA DESERT Experience BOOKLET

The

SAHARA DESERT Experience Booklet A warm welcome to the Untravelled Paths Sahara Desert Experience Booklet on behalf of all the team! We do hope you’re excited about your upcoming adventure to the magical and mysterious land of Morocco and we’re sure you’ll find the material in this pack both useful and informative in preparation of your trip as well as during your visit with us. If you’ve not yet touched down on Moroccan soil, you’ll probably want to refer to the Basics section of the guide as this will brief you on the essentials for visiting the Sahara Desert and Marrakech, including information on locations, advice on changing money, what sort of weather to expect and insider tips and hints. For those that have already joined us off the beaten track, you’ll find recommendations specific to each destination on your trip, including information about what to see, where to eat and drink. Travel safe and travel fun! The UTP Team

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The Basics Fast Facts (4-5) Cash & Currency (6-9) Weather & Climate (10-11) Clothing & Packing (12-13) Food & Drink (14-15) Health & Safety (16-19)

CONTENTS

THE GUIDE Marrakech (20-43) Atlas Mountains (45-59) Sahara Desert (60-71)

THE REST Language (72-77) Tips & Tricks (78-81) Did You Know? (82-85) With Thanks (86-87) Trip Discounts (88-89)

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Fast Facts Country: Capital: Time Difference: Area: Population:

FAST FACTS

Language: Ethnicity: Religion:

446,550 sq.km 34.33 million Darija (Moroccan Arabic), Berber, French Arab-Berber 99%, Other 1% Sunni, Islam

Dialling Code: Emergency Number: (Area code required) Electricity:

Currency: Exchange Rate:

Morocco Rabat GMT/UTC (0/1hr from UK)

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+212 15 (ambulance + fire) 19 (city police) 117 (rural police) 220 volts; a standard continental adapter Dirham (Dh) ÂŁ1 = around 13 Dh

CASH & CURRENCY

THE BASICS Cash & Currency

Currency > The currency used in Morocco is the Moroccan Dirham, often abbreviated as Dhs or MAD. The Moroccan Dirham is a closed currency, so by law you are not allowed to import or export Moroccan Dirhams. Technically you’re not even allowed to take more than 1000 Dirhams into or out of the country (approx. £65.00) so we recommend waiting until you touch down in Morocco before you think about getting hold of the local currency. There is an ATM and a couple of bureau de change offices at Marrakesh airport so you’ll probably be better off withdrawing the money there. Beware of inflated exchange rates; these can be particularly poor at airports. Banks will change foreign currency for you and rates are consistent across the board. ATMs > While cash machines are widely available in Morocco, particularly in Marrakesh, they can be rather temperamental. You’ll find it difficult getting hold of cash on Monday mornings, on Fridays and on local holidays. Strange but true so it’s best to be prepared. When withdrawing money from a cash machine you’ll be offered two exchange rates, one from the local bank and another from your UK bank. Make sure you opt to take you UK bank’s exchange rate as it will be substantially better value. Please also note that most cash machines charge approximately £1.50 per withdrawal so use them sparingly. If you’re keen to avoid being charged, a new bank in London called Metro Bank offers accounts and cards that are free to use abroad both for cash withdrawals at ATMs and when paying on card machines.

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Credit/Debit Cards > Most major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard) are accepted throughout Morocco’s main towns and cities however cash is preferable particularly in the less built up and more remote areas of the country. While you’ll have no problem using your card to pay for drinks or dinner in places like Marrakech using your PIN number, many of the smaller towns along the way to the Sahara Desert only accept cash so do make sure you’ve got enough on you as well as small change for smaller purchases. It is always advisable to inform your bank that you’re travelling abroad in order to avoid the frustration of having your card blocked. Currency Card > For those who'd prefer to do without the hassle of changing currency or dealing with bank charges, we've teamed up with Caxton FX to offer you the benefits of using their currency cards which guarantee the best exchange rates along with the security of plastic. Once you’ve loaded it up online you can start using it on your travels to withdraw cash from ATMs without the usual charges. As a VISA card you’ll also have no problems using it in restaurants, bars and cafes. You can even keep the card after your trip and use it when you're next abroad! If you'd like to know more, get in touch.

drinks and snacks for two people is plenty for your time in the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert when breakfast and dinner are included. For your time in Marrakech you’ll need to add the costs of lunch, dinner and any shopping you’d like to do whilst you’re there. Please note that these are rough estimates and you can always choose to spend more or less depending on your budget and preferences. General Costs > The prices below for general items and sundries should give you a better idea of costs in Morocco. Please note these are averages. Bottle of Water: 40p Pint of Beer: £1 - £1.50 Cup of Coffee: around 80p Pack of Cigarettes: £2 Tipping > Tipping in Morocco is commonplace and practically anything can warrant a small tip. With that in mind, it can be a good idea to keep a supply of small coins with you just in case. Tip up to 10% in restaurants, a couple of dirham in cafés, and 2 to 3 dirham for the attendant when you need to use the loo.

Budget > In order to give you some direction on how much spending money to budget for your trip to Morocco, we thought it would be a good idea to offer some guidelines in terms of costs. As a general rule, you’ll be able to have a good lunch for around £8 a head and will pay anything between £15 and £20 for a nice evening meal. Naturally, the type of establishment you choose to eat in and what you order will dictate the cost of your meals. Be aware that as a Muslim country, the cost of alcohol is typically higher than it would be elsewhere and ordering imported drinks can cause your bill to sky-rocket so drinking local wines, beers or spirits is advisable. We reckon around £100 for lunch, 08

WEATHER & CLIMATE Morocco’s Climate > Spring and autumn in Morocco are beautiful with warm sunshine, clear blue skies and lush greenery all around. Don’t be fooled by the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains though, the sun is still very powerful so don’t forget to pack your sun cream and apply it while you’re there. The heat of the Sahara Desert can also be deceptive; the days might be scorching but be prepared for some pretty chilly nights too.

THE BASICS Weather & Climate

Autumn Weather (October & November) > Just coming out of summer, the temperatures in autumn are warmer and a lot more bearable compared to the height of summer particularly in Marrakech and in the Sahara Desert during the daytime. Winter Weather (December, January & February) > With lovely mild weather throughout the winter months, the temperatures in Marrakech from the end of November to February are comfortable and there’s plenty of snow topping the Atlas Mountains making the scenery even more photogenic than usual. That said, evenings in the Sahara Desert often drop drastically so layers are crucial. Spring Weather (March, April & May) > Spring is a lovely time to be in Morocco with mild temperatures. The snow on the mountains provides a stunning and hugely contrasting backdrop to your journey through to the Sahara Desert. As is the case with the weather in October, April & May bring with it much higher temperatures in the run-up to summer. The weather is milder in April than it is in May.

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CLOTHING & PACKING

THE BASICS Clothing & Packing

Clothing > As the weather is likely to be hot and sunny you’ll want to pack cool and comfortable clothes. For your time in the desert we recommend loose or baggy trousers that won’t be impractical for camel riding and a scarf comes in very useful not only for protection against the sun but also from the sand when the wind picks up. A scarf is also practical for women who can use it as a cover up over bare shoulders in local villages. Be aware that despite the warm daytime temperatures it can get chilly in the evenings so packing layers is an excellent option. A warm fleece or hooded jumper can also help to protect you from the cold during the night. With swimming pools at most of your accommodations you should also pack some swimwear. Footwear > While in the desert it is helpful to choose footwear that won’t fall off while you’re riding a camel or get too much sand in them so a pair of sandals with straps can be useful. It’s always advisable to bring a pair of flip-flops or sandals any time by the pool or for something that’s easy to slip on and off as you wander around the desert camp. Women > Women dress modestly in Moroccan culture and tend to cover up shoulders, midriffs, chests and legs. To avoid unwarranted attention it is advisable to consider packing clothing that doesn’t expose too much flesh especially in Marrakech! Essentials > Aside from clothing and footwear mentioned above you might also want to bring sun cream and sunglasses, a small backback for day excursions and a camera.

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FOOD & DRINK

THE BASICS Food & Drink

Must-Try Moroccan Food > As Morocco’s trademark and famous dish, you are bound to have at least one tajine during your stay. These tasty stews vary in ingredients but all are cooked and come served in the traditional conical earthenware pots that magically turn everything inside into tender treasures. From dujaj mqalli bil hamd markd wa zeetoun (chicken with preserved lemon and olives) to lehem bil berquq wa luz (lamb with prunes and almonds), you’re sure to become very well acquainted with the tajine. Mint Tea > It’s more than just a refreshing hot drink in Morocco – mint tea here represents hospitality, welcome and friendship. Wherever you go you are likely to be offered some tea, whether it be on arrival at a charming little riad or within the confines of market-sellers’ stalls in the souk, it is customary to accept and of course enjoy! It’s not too much of a chore really. Notice the way they serve the tea – pouring it from the teapot as high as possible without spilling. Do you dare to have a go yourself? Alcohol > While alcohol in Morocco is not as strictly controlled as it is in other Islamic countries you won’t be able to get hold of it as easily as you would back home. Morocco produces its own brands of beer and wine and there are of course international products available but they don’t come cheap. You’ll only be able to order alcohol in licensed establishments so do check beforehand if you’re after a drink or two.

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HEALTH & SAFETY Emergency Contacts > You should be given the contact details of your guide in advance of your trip to Morocco. However, in the unlikely event you experience any problems whilst travelling and your guide is unavailable please contact James Chisnall on +44746 8308 320. Alternatively if you cannot get through to James call the Untravelled Paths office on +44207 101 4061.

THE BASICS Health & Safety

Crime > Violent crime is rare in Morocco particularly against tourists so you are highly unlikely to experience any problems during your stay here. That said, being harasses by ‘faux-guides’ (see below) and petty theft is fairly common. Applying basic common-sense rules should stand you in good stead when it comes to theft and petty crime so avoid walking alone at night around unlit areas, keep an eye on your valuables and don’t flaunt expensive jewellery. Unofficial Guides > Known as ‘faux guides’, you will no doubt encounter unofficial guides and street hustlers at some point while you’re in Morocco. If you want to get them off your tail be firm but polite and walk with purpose as if you know exactly where you’re headed. A simple ‘no thank you, my friend’ will normally suffice. We would not recommend taking these ‘guides’ up on their offer under any circumstances. Women > While crime against women is extremely rare in Morocco, there are a few common-sense precautions that female visitors should bear in mind when they’re in the country: don’t wander the streets alone

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after dark; if in doubt take a taxi! It’s unlikely that you’ll have any trouble but you’re likely to feel pretty uncomfortable and wary so it is best to avoid the situation. If you are approached, don’t react with aggression, keep it polite and carry on walking. It’s a good idea to save the number of your accommodation on your phone just in case you get lost, particularly in Marrakech. Smoking > Smoking is common and an accepted part of the Moroccan lifestyle so be prepared to see a lot of it. Should you choose to smoke while you’re in the country, we kindly ask you to respect the environment by disposing of cigarette butts in bins rather than throwing them just anywhere even if the locals do otherwise! Public Toilets > Most public toilets, if any, are not the most modern of facilities and can often mean an uncomfortable ‘squat’ where you’ll pay a few dirhams for the privilege. We suggest keeping a packet of tissues or a roll of toilet paper with you just in case making sure you dispose of the paper in the bins provided instead of attempting to flush it down the loo. Water > We highly recommend sticking to bottled water in order to avoid a tummy upset! Bottled water is widely available and inexpensive so please don’t risk it.

• • •

Antihistamines Insect repellent Painkillers and anti-inflammatories

Diarrhoea > If you manage to escape the customary bout of ‘the runs’, consider yourself lucky! Most visitors will come down with diarrhoea at some point during their time in Morocco so it’s not something to be overly concerned about. The best advice is to drink bottled water, carry antibacterial hand gel, and avoid unwashed fruit and vegetables. Just be sure to pack that Imodium! The Environment > Please be respectful of the environment when you are visiting Morocco. Pick up any rubbish you may have accumulated and keep the noise to a minimum. Elders > Moroccans still have the tradition of highly respecting their elders and the sick. If someone who is handicapped, or older than you is passing, then stop and allow room for them. Or if a taxi arrives and you are waiting with an elder, then you should allow the older person to take precedence over you. Tourists are not held to these expectations, but it improves regard for tourists in Morocco when they adhere to the same traditions.

Medication & First Aid > To ensure you’re covered from all angles, we suggest considering packing a small medical kit with the following items, just in case: • Antibacterial hand gel • Antidiarrheal tablets, eg. Imodium • Oral rehydration salts • Sun cream 18

LEARN Something Interesting – Marrakech (22-25)

See/DO Somewhere Buzzing for Exotic Shopping & Haggling - The

Souks (26-27) Somewhere Magical for an Evening Spectacle - Djeemaa el-

Fnaa Square (28-29)

MARRAKECH

Something Traditional for Relaxation & Healing – Hammam

(30-31)

EAT Somewhere Exotic with Belly-Dancing – Le Comptoir (32-33) Somewhere for Tasty Tagines - Le Tanjia (34-35) Somewhere Elegant for an International Menu – Pepe Nero

(36-37)

DRINK Somewhere Chilled with a Terrace – Café des Epices (38-39) Somewhere Inviting for Sunset Drinks – Kosybar (40-41) Somewhere Smart for Coffee or Juice – Un Dejeuner a

Marrakech (42-43)

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MARRKECH Anyone who is expecting modern sophistication and a tranquil paradise of calm is in for a shock. Marrakech is like no other place on earth, full of magic and mystery, mesmerising chaos and its own unique brand of unconventional beauty. The snow-dusted peaks of the High Atlas Mountains and the flaming red of the scorching desert create a backdrop of pure exoticism that will make you feel as though youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been pulled into a far-flung world forgotten by the clutches of time. Just make sure you come prepared for a serious case of sensory overload! Once the hub of camel caravans from the south, this bustling North African city still throbs with energy both day and night. A place where the air is infused with an exotic blend of burning incense, spices, soldered metal, leather and the sweet and woody scents of musk, rose and amber. Where the daily call to prayer echoes from the towering minarets that puncture the sky and struggles to be heard above the beeping cars and haggling street vendors. Marrakech is like no other place on earth, full of magic and mystery, mesmerising chaos and its own unique brand of unconventional beauty. 22

A sprawling labyrinth of dusty alleyways makes up the kaleidoscopic souks that burst to the brim with all manner of treasures and trinkets from hanging lanterns and tribal www.untravelledpaths.com

handwoven rugs to pyramids of rainbow-coloured spices and raw silk scarves and sparkling silverware.

VISIT

Meander through the souks in the late afternoon dodging donkey carts and mopeds that zig-zag through the crowds as you try your hand at haggling for that Aladdin-style silver lamp and those pointy-toed Babouche slippers. Make for the city’s lively main square just before dusk and watch the spectacle of Djeema el-Fnaa unravel before your eyes as darkness descends. You’ve no choice but to delve straight into the thick of it, perhaps pausing to snack on pigeon pie and roasted snails atone of the dozens of food stalls that fire up their kitchens with charcoal smoke and vie for your attention amidst snake charmers, tooth pullers and zealous acrobats. Of course, the hectic madness of the medina is balanced perfectly with the oasis of peace and stylish sophistication of your riad where babbling water, rose petals and candlelit lanterns prevail. Treat yourself to an invigorating hammam massage before enjoying a decadent dinner at one of Marrakech’s chic restaurants where pastries are glazed with syrupy orange blossom water and rich tagines are laced with cinnamon and served with spiced couscous. We dare you not to fall head over heads in love with spellbinding Marrakech. 24

Learn > Marrakech

Something ICONIC AS SEEN IN

Somewhere IMPRESSIVE 25

THE SOUKS Sacks overflowing with fresh mint, almonds and cinnamon; gleaming displays of brass and copper teapots, lanterns, mirrors and candlesticks; handmade organic soaps scented with rose, saffron and rosemary; sky-high stacks of juicy olives, pomegranates and sticky pastries; kaleidoscopic walls of pashminas, rainbow scarves and pointy leather slippers adorned with beads; gravity-defying piles of dried rose buds, golden turmeric and ginger; herbal teas that claim to cure all manner of ills and a jumble of bejewelled trinkets, rings and glass tea cups. There’s no shopping-stone unturned in the famous souks of Marrakech… you name it, they’ve got it! Best visited in the cool morning or late afternoon when golden sunshine trickles through the crevices of the wooden roof shades transforming a million dust particles into glittering gold dust. The best way to experience the souks is to leave your map at home and get lost in the mayhem.

SEE 26

Somewhere Buzzing for Exotic Shopping & Haggling

Haggle to your heart’s content with spirited stall salesmen or simply soak up the atmosphere. Whatever you do just make sure you’ve left enough space in your suitcase to store all your treasures!

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DJEMAA ELFNAA SQUARE

SEE

Take a medieval market in the heart of Marrakech and add some dancing musicians, cheeky monkeys, food stalls hazy with fire and smoke and noisy street vendors shouting in your ear with a touch of tarot cards, spices, souks and towering minarets and you’ve got yourself the intoxicating main square of Djemaa el-Fnaa. Representing the beating heart of the medina the Djemaa elFnaa really comes to life as the sun sets and dusk settles over the square. This eclectic hub of street theatre and entertainment attracts a weird and wonderful variety of street artists including palm readers, snake charmers, soothsayers, acrobats, belly dancers and tooth pullers, your only option is to dive right in and embrace the madness. Get in amongst the thick of it by making a beeline for one of the myriad of food stalls for a freshly squeezed juice and some authentic street food tinged with the tang of charcoal, fire and ash. If you’re feeling daring why not try some goat head or even a spleen kebab? Then once you’ve had your fill of somewhat overwhelming fun, find yourself a cosy spot at one of the cafe balconies overlooking the square and watch the action unfold below with a steaming mint tea in your hands.hands. 28

Marrakech > See > Djeema el-Fnaa Square 19

Somewhere MAGICAL FOR AN EVENING SPECTACLE 29

HAMMAM DO

No trip to Marrakech would be complete without indulging in a traditional Moroccan hammam. And you’ll probably need it after all the dust and drama haggling in the souks and exploring the city’s main square. Luckily enough, Marrakech does pampering extremely well and a good hammam, or Turkish bath, will revive your senses and melt away any stresses, aches and pains leaving you feeling light and refreshed and your skin rose-petal soft so you can face another day of mayhem. The hammam itself takes place in a dark and steamy cocoon-like room lined with heated benches that are set into traditional tadelakt walls. Once you’ve taken a seat you’ll be drenched with warm water then scrubbed with a strong savon noir that’s been perfumed with eucalyptus or bitter orange. After that, prepare to be exfoliated to within an inch of your life by a scratchy loofah glove that ruthlessly scours away dead skin. You’ll them be smothered in an organic mineral clay known as ghassoul before being doused with another bucket of warm water to reveal invigorated, clean and velvety skin.

SOMETHING TRADITIONAL FOR RELAXATION & HEALING 30

We suggest opting for a massage straight after your hammam so your muscles and mind can truly unwind. If you’d like to have a hammam massage then do speak to your riad.

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LE COMPTOIR

EAT

Part restaurant-lounge, part boutique-bar, this popular Marrakech hang-out is the place to see and be seen and attracts many of the city’s young and beautiful in-crowd. Plush-red curtains are pulled back to reveal a sultry candlelit dining room complete with sparkling lanterns and an extravagant dark-wooden staircase seating a handful of luteplaying musicians who serenade the crowd with oriental folk music. Le Comptoir really heats up later on in the evening when the restaurant transforms into a something of a theatre and the main spectacle kicks off. As such we suggest booking a table later than usual (between 9.30pm and 10pm) so you’re in the right place at the right time. Why not sup on decadent cocktails at the Art-Deco bar upstairs before dinner! The international-inspired menu boasts an eclectic range of dishes that fuse the exotic flavours and spices of the East with the flair and sophistication of the West so you get the best of all worlds. We like the more traditional specialities on offer including the exotic medley of Moroccan salads to start followed by a tasty tagine with sweet-onion and orange blossom flavoured couscous, and an assortment of sticky, cinnamon-rich pastries. You’ll no doubt forget about the food on your plate as a flock of bellydancers descend the central staircase shaking and swaying their way between chairs and tables. Just beware… the dancers are not afraid to climb up onto your party’s table to entertain you! The place keeps pumping well into the night so prepare to party like the modernMarrakeshis or make a beeline for the starlit patio for some fresh air and perhaps a shisha pipe. Prices are expensive but not exorbitant particularly when you consider the whole package.

Somewhere EXOTIC WITH BELLY DANCING

Avenue Echouhada, Open daily 19:30 – 03:00; £££ 32

Marrakech > Eat > Le Comptoir

LE TANJIA

EAT

Spread over three floors this stylish brasserie is elegantly decorated with glowing lanterns, oriental furnishings and bubbling courtyard fountains. Perfectly located for those staying at Riad Dar One, Le Tanjia is also right around the corner from Kosy Bar so you might choose to head over here for a traditional Moroccan supper in a romantic setting. Lamb and chicken tagines are beautifully blended with the sweetness of figs, plums and apricots, the crunch of almonds and the sharp tang of preserved lemons, herbed olives and aromatic spices. Top marks also go to the delicious pigeon pastilla, its crispy pastry filled with meat, honey and spices. Just make sure you’ve built up an appetite in the souks as food is rich and the portions large. Indulge in some after-dinner liquors and a hookah pipe in the cigar lounge and bar downstairs or make for the atmospheric roof terrace with its views over the bustling medina. The service can be on the slow side so consider ordering yourself an extra drink more than usual while you’ve got the waiters attention. 14 Derb J’did, Hay Essalam Mellah; Open daily 10:00 to 01:00; Somewhere Somewhere ££ FOR TASTY TAGINES CLASSY FOR FINE DINING 34

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EAT

PEPE NERO Tired of tagines? Then this is for you. Pepe Nero’s chef has created two distinctive charmingly named menus that'll satisfy all tastes. On the ‘Il Bel Paese’ menu you can expect a host of modern Italian dishes such as beef and tuna carpaccio, homemade pastas and a wonderful Sicilian cassata. And for those that aren’t totally couscoused out there’s the ‘La Ville Rouge’ menu which features Moroccan delicacies along the lines of rich harira soups, traditional pigeon pie and local pastries. You’ll find the entrance to the restaurant behind a heavy wooden door at the end of an eerily dark alleyway. Just ignore the local children and their adamant claims that the restaurant has closed unexpectedly! Inside, smart tables and transparent-design chairs are set neatly around a riad-style courtyard. A gleaming jade-green pool sits like a jewel in the centre where floating rose petals are disturbed only by the ripples from the fountain. If you’re after a particularly romantic soiree then this is where you’ll want to reserve your table. Certainly more expensive than your average local but the divine setting and quality cuisine more than make up for it. You’ll even be treated to a complimentary mimosa (prosecco and orange juice) and an amuse bouche to whet your appetite.

Somewhere ELEGANT FOR AN INTERNATIONAL MENU 36

Douar Graoua, Open Tues to Sun 12:00 – 14:30, 19:30 – 23:00; ££ www.untravelledpaths.com

CAFÉ DES EPICES

DRINK

Somewhere CHILLED WITH A TERRACE

Snuggled right on the edge of the old spice souk in the heart of the buzzing medina, the Cafe des Epices roof terrace provides the perfect excuse for a well-deserved break from the haggling for treasures in the dusty souks.

Enjoy a fresh juice or a fragrant mint tea while enjoying a spot of people-watching. Peer down at the wrinkled old women selling their colourful knitted hats, watch as all manner of spices are ground and collected, scenting the air with cinnamon, ginger and saffron. If you’re feeling peckish the small menu offers some light bites including mini Moroccan-inspired hamburgers, sandwiches and salads. Prices are very reasonable too. Yes, we could happily wile the day away up here...

Derb Rahba Lakdima; Open daily 09:00 – 21:00

Marrakech > Drink > Café des Epices 19

DRINK

KOSYBAR You couldn’t have a name like Kosybar and not boast an exceedingly comfortable space that lures you in and coaxes you never to leave. Luckily for us, this atmospheric bar delivers far more than cosiness. While there are two other levels to choose from, we always make a beeline for the magical roof terrace right at the top which offers sweeping panoramas over the city. Arrive at sunset and watch the blue sky melt into a dazzling blend of pastel pinks and fiery reds. The street vendors will be wrapping up the day’s trade and the hectic square suddenly mellows with storks soaring overhead then flying back to their monster-sized nests on the Badi Palace walls. Add elegant decor, dimmed lights, trendy chill-out tunes and a cracking wine list, and you’ve got yourself the idyllic location for pre-dinner drinks. This seductive ambiance is probably just as well given that the service can be a little on the slow side! There is food on the menu but with so many fabulous restaurants why not move on to one of our special picks for dinner.

Somewhere INVITING FOR SUNSET DRINKS 40

Place des Ferblantiers, Rue de Berrima; Open daily 12:00 – 01:00

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UN DEJEUNER A MARRAKECH

DRINK

A smart spot for coffee or a light bite…. if you can find it through the maze-like souks! Three steep flights of stairs lead out onto a tented roof terrace dotted with comfortable cushions to lounge on and shaded areas to protect against the burning Moroccan sunshine. We tend to go for a light lunch and a non-alcoholic cocktail that’s crammed full of fresh fruit. You can’t go wrong ordering the delicious Moroccan samosas or the carrot soup, and the homemade asparagus quiche and turkey-filled croque monsieurs are wonderful too accompanied by zesty salads that are full of flavour. Just make sure you leave a bit of space for one of the divine desserts on the menu. Pair that with a cup of freshly ground fine Italian coffee and you’ll be ready to take on the madness of the medina with renewed energy! Haphazard service but cheap and cheerful is the name of the game. 4 Rue Douar Graoua; Opening daily 10:00 – 22:00

Somewhere SMART FOR COFFEE AND JUICE 42 Square

Marrakech > Drink > Un Dejeuner a Marrakech 19

LEARN Something Interesting

Atlas Mountains (46-47)

VISIT Something Iconic as seen in the Movies

Ait Benhaddou (48-49)

ATLAS MOUNTAINS

See Somewhere Blooming

Valley of Roses (50-51) Somewhere Arid yet Fertile

Dades Valley (52-53)

STAY Somewhere Intimate & Elegant

I Rocha (54-55) Somewhere Breathtakingly Beautiful

Kasbah Bab Ourika (56-59)

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Atlas Mountains Part of North Africa’s greatest mountain range, the Atlas Mountains offer a welcome respite from the madness and mayhem of Marrakech. Life here is slower and more relaxed filled with wild nature and rural spirit. However, it’s the outstanding landscape that keeps us returning to the High Atlas. It’s ever-changing too with snow-dusted mountain peaks looming over deep green valleys dotted with clusters of walnut groves and Berber villages that nestle into the nooks and curves of clear mountain rivers. In springtime, almond blossom carpets the vast landscape and there’s even enough winter snow for skiing. Both the drive through the Atlas Mountains and the scenery overlooking this vast landscape from our handpicked luxury accommodations are a wonderful way to take in the outstanding natural beauty, peace and tranquillity of the area.

In springtime, almond blossom carpets the vast landscape and there’s even enough winter snow for skiing. 46

The Berbers often refer to the High Atlas as 'The Mountain of Mountains’, which pretty much sums up the overwhelming experience you’ll have both staying at one of our chosen luxury kasbahs and driving through to the Sahara Desert. Pure brilliance. www.untravelledpaths.com

AIT BEN HADDOU

VISIT

From whichever entrance you approach this mud-brick Kasbah from you’re bound to feel as though you’ve seen it before somewhere and you’re absolutely right. Now an iconic attraction, Ait Benhaddou (ask your driver for correct pronunciation) has featured in a handful of Hollywood blockbusters including Gladiator and Lawrence of Arabia. You’ve got a couple of hours here, give or take, so take your time winding your way past the colourful souvenir stalls and hop across the parched Oued Ounilla riverbed jumping from sandbag to sandbag until you reach the rusty Kasbah. It’s a bit of a winding climb up to the very top but the views of the endless stony desert and surrounding palmeraie are spectacular! If it’s a hot day, take a bottle of water with you.

Something ICONIC AS SEEN IN THE MOVIES 48

Atlas Mountains > See > Ait Benhaddou 19

Valley of roses

Somewhere BLOOMING

Where the Atlas Mountains meet the Dades Valley, you’ll find the Valley of Roses, which practically bursts at the seams with hedgerows of wild Damask roses. In the spring these rosebuds, blossoms and petals are picked by the village women who work tirelessly each day before sunrise gathering up to 700 tons by the end of the season. The fruit of their labour is then transformed into the mass of products you’ll find in the pink shops here from dried rose petals and rich creams to cleaning sprays and make-up remover. If you think you’ll like to pop in to pick up some products do feel free to ask you driver to make a stop.

DO SEE 50

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DADES Valley

Somewhere ARID YET FERTILE

Stretched across 100 miles through the Todra Gorge, the Dades Valley is wild and rural with mountainous landscape that sweeps into rusty orange canyons and arid red gorges. Quenched by the Dades River, which cuts through the dramatic landscape, lush green oases spring to life nurturing rich palm groves, walnut and almond trees and plenty of sweet plump figs. Often known as the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Road of a Thousand Kasbahsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the Dades Valley also plays host to reams upon reams of ochre kasbahs and ancient fortresses that were erected by the Berbers to shield themselves against invaders. Half desert and half fertile, the contrast of the arid landscape with its stunning rock formations against the lush springs and vegetation makes for a spectacular drive.

SEE 52

Atlas Mountains > See > Dades Valley 19

I ROCHA

STAY

Once you spot the cliffside stone guesthouse of I Rocha above the green river valley, you’ll feel like you’ve just made it home! Marking the crossroads between the scorching desert and the looming mountains, the location of the kasbah couldn’t be any more perfect. The sweet little rooms are an absolute delight and come complete with exposed beam ceilings, handmade local rugs and other comforting touches that will make you feel cheerful and content. With only 5 rooms, the intimate kasbah never feels cramped or crowded either. Unwind with a hammam or a dip in the small sunny pool or simply mellow with a drink on the terrace overlooking the green river valley as the sun sets behind the snow-dusted mountain peaks of the High Atlas. Dinner is served in the cosy dining area and the French-Moroccan dishes are the perfect fusion of traditional and contemporary cuisine made fresh with herbs from the terrace garden.

Somewhere INTIMATE & ELEGANT 54

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BAB OURIKA

STAY

Perched majestically on a hilltop marking the gateway to the Atlas Mountains, the sublime Kasbah Bab Ourika takes centre stage overlooking the fertile river valley below with its clusters of ochre Berber villages and endless groves of citrus fruits and olives quenched by the glacial river. The Kasbahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection of fifteen rooms is all individually decorated in perfect harmony with the natural surroundings with traditional carpets, earthy textiles and wooden Berber furniture and artefacts sourced from local flea markets. Many of the rooms have their own private terraces offering panoramic views of the dazzling snow-capped peaks of the High Atlas Mountains and some even have a private pool. Bathrooms are strewn with red, yellow and pink rose petals, hot water is heated by solar panels and the toiletries are produced with fresh rosemary and mint from the herb garden. Eco-conscious and environmentally friendly, the walls have been built with rammed earth using age-old Berber methods, which not only gives the kasbah its distinctive russet colour but also creates natural insulation that does away with the need for air conditioning. Bab Ourika has also established a self-sufficient energy system and supports the Berber community by training up and employing charming locals as staff and providing funding for neighbouring school and villages. Life here is peaceful and relaxed so spend your days lounging by the secluded swimming pool under the warm Moroccan sunshine or take a stroll through the labyrinth of gorgeous terraced gardens finding yourself a little nook where you can curl up with a drink and pour over a good book. 56

Atlas Mountains > Stay > I Rocha

Somewhere BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL 57

STAY

A delicious breakfast is served on the sun-drenched terrace shaded by soft white cotton fabrics draped over wrought-iron railings. The Berber omelette is a particular favourite of ours served in a ceramic tagineshaped dish and bursting with tongue-tingling Moroccan spices, fragrant coriander and ripe tomatoes. Afternoon tea is set out in the courtyard so grab yourself a hot mint tea and a couple of homemade biscuits before heading down to the bottom of the garden to say hello to the donkeys in their little wooden shack. Then perch yourself on a hand carved bench and watch the landscape unfold before your eyes from lush green to dusty brown until the golden desert begins and the sun melts behind the mountains. Food is organic and fresh, either grown in their overflowing vegetable patches, herb garden or locally sourced from nearby horticultural farms. Served in the gardens or by candlelight in the courtyard restaurant, the seasonal set menus for lunch and dinner change daily and feature modern European dishes with an exotic Moroccan twist. Think colourful beetroot, rocket, feta and walnut salads served with fresh mint and berber stone bread for starters followed by charcoal cooked beef tagine with green beans and couscous flavoured with wild herbs and spices. Dessert might be something like frozen amaretto parfait and medjool dates drenched in espresso syrup and sprinkled with amaretti biscuits. We love heading outside into the crisp night after dinner to marvel at the wondrously bright stars before treating ourselves to a night cap in the snug bar then heading to bed and falling asleep to the soothing crackle of the embers smouldering in the open fireplace.

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LEARN Something Interesting

Sahara Desert (62-63)

VISIT Somewhere Impressive

SAHARA DESERT

Todra Gorge (64-65)

See Somewhere Vast

Draa Valley (66-67)

STAY Somewhere Remote & Romantic

Sahara Desert Camp (68-71)

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A multitude of sand dunes roll towards the horizon against the unparalleled backdrop of the snowcapped Atlas Mountains and swirling Sahara sands.

SAHARA DESERT Measuring up at around 9 million square kilometres, the Sahara Desert stretches across North Africa and earns its title as the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest desert. To put that into perspective, the area roughly equates to the size of the United States of America! But any perception of size, space and even time here evaporates immediately in the endlessly dramatic and desolate landscape. What begins as lush green mountains on the journey down to the Sahara sweeps into rusty orange canyons and arid red gorges set against a sapphire sky before all turns to golden sand. A multitude of sand dunes roll towards the horizon against the unparalleled backdrop of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains and swirling Sahara sands. In the evening, the desert really comes into its own. A night spent at the Sahara Desert Camp in your own Bivouac tent provides a magical experience thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be etched in your memory forever more. Tuck into a traditional Berber dinner and curl up near the campfire under a blanket of twinkling stars breathing in crisp, clean air. Then prepare to make the trek on the back of a camel to the crown of the towering sand dunes the next morning where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll witness the sun as it begins its ascent, bathing the desert in warm sunlight.

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TODRA GORGE The road from Tinerhir in through to the Todra Gorge is pretty special in itself. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll pass lush green palmeraies and pockets of Berber villages until rocky pink and grey walls begin to climb and tower above, almost enclosing the road entirely. The gorge is actually a huge fault line that divides the High Atlas from the Jebel Sarho and is so narrow that, in parts, the only thing that can squeeze through is the crystal-clear river that cuts through the gorge.

VISIT

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have some time here to walk along the bottom of the gorge staring up at the steep walls. You can also stop for a quick coffee or refreshment before continuing on the journey towards to dunes of the Sahara Desert.

Something ICONIC AS SEEN IN THE MOVIESSomewhere IMPRESSIVE 64

Sahara Desert > Visit > Todra Gorge

SEE

DRAA VALLEY Taking over from the Dades Valley at Ouarzazate, the Draa Valley winds its way through to the cusp of the Sahara Desert where the last oases melt into the dust and dunes of the desert. Morocco’s largest river, the Draa, cuts through the landscape carving deep canyons before levelling out into broad gravelly riverbeds that sprout an endless trail of palm trees. After crossing the dramatic peaks and rocky ridges of the Jebel Sarhro mountain range, the Draa Valley unfolds into a patchwork of traditional Berber villages, ancient rusty-red kasbahs, swathes of green plains and palm groves aplenty. These sweeping stretches of thick palms grow heavy with sticky dates thereby giving the Valley its alternate name of the ‘Country of Dates’ Look out for the appropriately tajine-shaped Jebel Kissane on the horizon and if you think you can see snow-capped mountain peaks over the village of Agdz, take a closer look. What you’re actually witnessing is the sunlight bouncing off deposits of reflective mica... a real-life mirage!

Somewhere VAST 66

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SAHARA DESERT CAMP

STAY

Camping… but not as you know it. These are traditional Bivouac Berber tents set amongst the foothills of sky-scraping sand dunes in the heart of the Sahara Desert. Accessible only by jeep or camel, the Sahara Desert Camp is made up of a collection of traditional Berber tents that are covered in camel wool and various fabrics protecting them against the occasional raging sand storms and icy winds. But don’t be fooled by the simple exterior. You’ll soon discover that the inside of these nomadic dwellings is anything but your average poky tent! The sandy floor is lined with colourful rugs, cotton drapes decorate the would-be walls and proper beds are cozied up with soft pillows and blankets. Watch the sun set behind the sand dunes with a cool beer or fresh mint tea before huddling around the campfire and soaking up the atmosphere. A traditional Moroccan dinner will be served in local Berber style in the main tent where you’ll enjoy tasty dishes full of warm spices and exotic flavours. Then all you in to do is watch the Sahara stars twinkle.

Somewhere REMote & ROMANTIC 68

Sahara Desert > Stay > Sahara Desert Camp 19

Your wake up call comes in the form of a local Bedouin and his caravan of camels who’ll rouse you from sleep just before dawn and lead you over the towering sand dunes on the back of a camel. Perched on a magic carpet you’ll watch the golden sun rise over the horizon lighting up the desert in blushing pink, glowing orange and bright blue, the sunshine tickling your face.

STAY

Once you’re back at the Sahara Desert Camp you’ll be served a delicious Berber breakfast while you watch the desert come to life before heading to brush your teeth at one of the charming upside-down-copper-kettle washbasins. There are bathroom and shower facilities at the camp but you’ll also have the option to make use of a room at the Auberge Derkaoua where you can freshen up and get ready for the day ahead.

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MOROCCAN ARABIC Classical Arabic is Morocco’s official language, but the country’s distinctive Moroccan Arabic dialect is the most widely spoken language in Morocco. In addition, about 10 million Moroccans, mostly in rural areas, speak Berber, which exists in Morocco in three different dialects (Tarifit, Tashelhit, and Tamazight) – either as a first language or bilingually with the spoken Arabic dialect.

LANGUAGE

French, which remains Morocco’s unofficial third language, is taught universally and still serves as Morocco’s primary language of commerce and economics and is widely used in education and government so whipping out some basic French from your school days will stand you in good stead. Even Spanish is spoken in northern parts of the country and English, whilst further behind, is starting to become more widely spoken throughout the country particularly amongst the more educated youth. We’ve collated a very brief collection of the most useful words and phrases in Moroccan Arabic to help you bridge the communication gap when you’re out and about with French versions too. This is particularly useful during your time in Marrakech when you’re left at your leisure to explore the city. Your guide should be there to assist you for the rest of your journey through the Altas Mountains and into the Sahara Desert.

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Use this at a Djeema el-Fnaa food stall to show your appreciation whilst sampling street food

Words & phrases Hello

Salaam alaiekum / Bonjour This is the classic Moroccan greeting and you'll hear it everywhere. The response switches the two words around 'alaiekum salaam'. For a simplified version, you can always stick to 'salaam'.

Goodbye

Beslama / Au revoir A simple ‘beslama’ greeting as you leave the restaurant at the end of an evening or when you’re saying goodbye to your riad can make all the difference

Please

Afak / S'il vous plait This can also be used when you’re trying to attract attention, perhaps you’re after the bill or you’d like to try on those Aladdin slippers

Thank You

Shukran / Merci

How are you?

La bess? / Ca va? You can use this as a question and an answer so if someone ask you 'la bess' you can just say 'la bess' right back. This same rules apply for the French 'ca va'

Delicious 74

La deed! / Tres bon!

Enough!

Safi! / Ca suffit Great to use at a Moroccan restaurant when you simply cannot eat any more of that tajine!

A little

Shwiya / Un peu You can use this darija (Moroccan Arabic) word for almost anything. For example, “You speak Arabic?” “Shwiya. Just a little.” Mothers walking around with children call out “Shwiya!” when the kids get too far ahead. Can be used if someone asks how much of something you want.

A lot

Bezzaf / Beaucoup The opposite of shwiya, this word can be used to express a lot of thanks when you say “Shukran bezzaf,” or it can just be a word of agreement when you really agree with someone. “Morocco is beautiful, no?” “Bezzaaaaaf, bezzaf!”

How much?

Bashal? / Combien? Very handy when haggling for purchases in the souks. Usually followed by 'bezzaf, bezzaf!' (too much!)

COMMON WORDS & EXPRESSIONS Meshi mushkila No problem. The hakuna matata of the Maghreb. Used for everything, always. Insha’allah Literally ‘God willing'. This is a great phrase for a lot of occasions. It’s fairly casual in its flexibility as a phrase, and can be used like “Insha’allah you will feel better soon” or “It won’t rain tomorrow insha’allah.” Hamdul’allah Literally ‘thanks be to God’. Similary to insha’allah, this phrase is never really not appropriate and you can throw it into pretty much any conversation. For example, “How are you?” “Good, fine, hamdul’allah” or “Chefchaouen is so beautiful” “Yes, hamdul’allah.” Medina Literally ‘city’. In Morocco, medina is used to describe the city within a city that consists of winding alleyways, old houses and the families who have lived in them for a long time. They are usually surrounded by a wall and have their own fascinating ecosystems. Outside the medina in most cities are more conventional looking neighborhoods with street signs and apartment buildings. 76

The Rest > Language > Words & Expressions

souks. Usually followed by 'bezzaf, bezzaf!' 19 (too much!)

Medina literally means ‘city’ 77

TIPS & TRICKS •

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TIPS & TRICKS

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Something SPECTACULAR 78

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If you find yourself lost in a medina, follow the flow of people along the main paths and you’re sure to be spat out at an exit where you can find your bearings. Either that, or use a compass – street names will prove useless! Dig out your old-school French – it’ll stand you in good stead! Delight the locals with some simple greetings in Berber or Darija. You can even use this as a tactic to charm sellers in the souks! Try a few phrases like ssalamu’lekum (hello), shukran (thanks) and insh’allah (God willing). Show respect by covering your knees and shoulders whether you are a woman or a man. Save Water! It’s scarce and sacred. Don’t skip pleasantries when you’re going into the souks for a good barter. It’s polite and customary. Don’t be perturbed if hustlers on the street try to tell you that the restaurant or riad you’re looking for is closed or doesn’t exist, they are merely looking for an excuse to whisk you along to another establishment where they will be paid commission Be aware of the locals right to privacy when you’re snapping away with your camera; Urban Moroccans will be used to it but locals in rural areas will be less willing, whereas the older generation and women will not want to be photographed at all. If in doubt, ask first! Learn to love mint tea – you’ll be drinking it constantly. Luckily, it’s not hard as the tea is delicious. ATMs are rather temperamental in Marrakesh with barely any functioning on Monday mornings and many left with no cash on Fridays. Avoid withdrawing money on local holidays, as cash machines will often not be stocked. www.untravelledpaths.com

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Don’t count on establishments using credit card machines. Instead, stock up on local currency while you’re in bigger cities like Marrakesh. Keep a supply of small coins on you for tipping. Don’t drink alcohol in view of a mosque. It is inadvisable to eat in public during Ramadan. You are likely to see this pride symbol everywhere. It symbolises the Berber people as ‘free people’ and is part of the Berber flag. You’ll notice that greetings differ between men and women: men shake hands with their right hand and follow up by touching their left hand to their hearts, while women shake hands and share a few air kisses. Get involved! Carry tissues or toilet roll with you. Just in case... Tips and tricks for getting touts and hustlers off your back: decline politely but firmly, don’t engage in conversation, act as if you know where you are going, wear sunglasses, say you live there, play dumb, don’t forget your sense of humour! Don’t turn your nose up at orange juice (aseer limoon) sellers in Marrakesh, the juice is delicious, just drink it from a disposable cup or one of your empty water bottles to avoid an upset tummy! Smoking is a national pastime so you’ll see and smell lots of it. In Morocco, it is considered impolite to handle food with the left hand and to say no to meat if it is offered at a meal Respect your elders Don’t be impolite when you get into a taxi, it’s commonplace to offer a greeting and some brief chit-chat

The Rest > Tips & Tricks

Do as the Italians do and take your coffee standing at the bar.

Learn to love mint tea – you’ll be drinking it constantly. Luckily, it’s not hard as the tea is delicious.

DID YOU KNOW? • • •

DID YOU KNOW?

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Something SPECTACULAR 82

An Arabic name for Morocco, al-Magrib al-Aqsa, means “the extreme west” and attests to Morocco’s place as the westernmost country in the Arab world Morocco is only 8 miles (13 km) from Europe, across the Strait of Gibraltar Morocco is the largest processor and exporter of sardines in the world and one of the world’s largest producers of illicit hashish Oukaïmeden, in Morroco’s High Atlas Mountains is the highest ski resort in Africa White is the color of mourning in Morocco. A Moroccan widow wears white for 40 days after the death of her husband Dubbed Moroccan, or Berber, “whiskey,” tea has become the national drink of Morocco and was introduced in 1854 when blockaded British merchants uploaded large quantities of tea at major Moroccan ports In Morocco, it is estimated that there is one dentist for every 800,000 residents, and the standard treatment for a toothache is extraction. Look out for the toothpullers at the souks with their sets of pliers and carpets of molars! The English word “genie” comes directly from the Arabic word djinn, believed to frequent places associated with water The Moroccan national costume is called the djellaba, a one-piece unisex, hooded, coverall garment. One of the words for “money” in Morocco is wusakh d-dunya, or “dirt of the world.” The name of Jemaa el Fna, the vast market square in Marrakech, Morocco, literally means “assembly of the dead” and may refer to the traditional display of the heads of criminals executed there until the 19th century www.untravelledpaths.com

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Morocco is the only African country that is not a member of the African Union The inventor of the first pedestrian crossing light, Leslie Hore-Belisha, is buried in the Jewish cemetery of Essaouira Morocco has 172,395 square miles (446,550 square km) and is slightly larger than California Morocco’s highest point is Jebel Toubkal at 13,665 feet (4,165 m); its lowest point is Sebkha Tah at -180 feet (-55 m) below sea level Koura, or soccer, is Morocco’s most popular sport. The national team is called the Lions of Atlas In the Vallée des Roses, local legend states that pilgrims returning from Mecca brought with them the “Mother of all flowers,” the Damascus rose, initiating the rose industry in Morocco. In 1912, French parfumiers realized that the Vallée des Roses would be an ideal place to mass cultivate the bushy Rosa centifolia. Today, there are hundreds of kilometers of rose bush hedges and two factories in the valley, distilling rose essence At the 1984 Olympic Games, Nawal el Moutawakel unexpectedly won the inaugural running of the 400m hurdles, the first major title won by an Arab woman in an international competition. She is now a cabinet member. Morroco’s formal name is Al Mamlakah al Magribiyah, or Kingdom of Morocco. Coveted since Roman times, Morocco’s rare and beautiful thuya wood can be found only in the western foothills of the Atlas Mountains. In modern times, this material is synonymous with wealth, being the first burled wood used for luxury dashboards in the Rolls Royce The Atlas film studios, 4 miles (6 km) outside of Ouarzazate, are known as Morocco’s Hollywood. For a century, hundreds of films have been shot in this region, including Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, Bertolucci’s The Sheltering Sky, and Scorsese’s Kundun, among others.

The Rest > Did You Know?

Do as the Italians do and take your coffee standing at the bar.

The word “genie” comes from Arabic word djinn, believed to frequent places associated with water 85

WITH THANKS

We hope this information pack has been useful to you and we’d love to know what you think. So if you’ve noticed any mistakes, or inconsistencies then please do get in touch and let us know. We’re always looking for feedback too so if you think something’s been misleading or you happen to stumble upon a little gem of a restaurant, a gorgeous little café or a buzzing bar that you think deserves a mention then please do fill us in. We’re sure there are plenty of hidden delights we have yet to discover! Oh, and we also accept positive comments. Enjoy your trip and keep in touch! Team UTP Untravelled Paths Ltd 24 Ferncroft Avenue London NW3 7PH info@untravelledpaths.com 020 7101 4061 www.untravelledpaths.com /UntravelledPathsLtd

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TRIP DISCOUNTS

Just to say thank you for travelling with us, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re happy to offer you a 10% discount on any other Untravelled Paths experience within 18 months of your trip. Simply let us know during the booking process but please note that this discount is not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Take a look online for some inspiration on the sorts of experience we have in our collection and if you enjoyed the Sahara Desert Experience we reckon youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d love...

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