The Brown Bear Experience eBooklet by marionkatrina

The

BROWN BEAR EXPERIENCE

Booklet

THE BROWN BEAR

EXPERIENCE BOOKLET

A warm welcome to the Untravelled Paths Brown Bear Experience Information Pack on behalf of all the team! We do hope you’re excited about your upcoming adventure out in the Carpathian Mountains searching for the mighty brown bear and we’re sure you’ll find the material in this pack both useful and informative in preparation of your trip as well as during your visit with us. If you’ve not yet touched down on Romanian soil, you’ll probably want to refer to the Basics section of the guide as this will brief you on the essentials for visiting, including advice on packing, what to bring for bear tracking activities, changing money, what sort of weather to expect and insider tips and hints. As it is rather a unique experience and not something we’ve all done, we’ve tried to include as much information as possible to give you a better idea of what to expect and how best to prepare for your bear related activities. For those that have already joined us off the beaten track, you’ll find recommendations specific to each destination on your trip, including information about what to see, where to eat and drink. We’ve also included a section on useful Romanian words and phrases to bridge that language barrier. Travel safe and travel fun! The UTP Team www.untravelledpaths.com

THE BASICS Fast Facts (4-5) Cash & Currency (6-9) Weather & Climate (10-11) Food & Drink (12-15) Preparation & Packing (16-17) Health & Safety (18-21)

CONTENTS

THE GUIDE Bucharest (22-43) Peles Castle (44-45) Brasov (46-63) Bran Castle (64-65) Carpathian Mountains (66-81)

THE REST Language (82-87) FAQs (88-91) Tips & Tricks (92-95) Did You Know? (96-99) With Thanks (100-101) Trip Discounts (102-103)

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FAST FACTS

FAST FACTS Country: Capital: Time Difference: Area: Population:

Romania Bucharest GMT +2 hours 92,043 sq. miles th (12 largest country in Europe) 19,651,000

Language: Romanian Religion: Christian Orthodox (81%) Ethnicity: Romanian 84%, Hungarian 6.1%, Gypsy 3.1% German 0.2%, Ukrainian 0.2% Dialling Code: Emergency Number: Electricity:

+40 112 (no code required) 220 volts; a standard continental adapter

Currency:

Leu (RON) (plural lei) ÂŁ1 = between 5 to 6 lei

Exchange Rate:

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THE BASICS Cash & Currency

CASH & CURRENCY Romanian Currency > Although Romania is a member of the European Union, it does not use the euro (€), but has its own currency - the RON / Leu. The official currency is most commonly referred to as the plural ‘lei’ although some banks and exchange offices list it as the RON. One leu divides into 100 bani with banknotes coming in various demoninations normally 1 leu, 5 lei, 10 lei, 50 lei and 100 lei and less commonly, 200 and 500 lei notes. Coins come in 50 bani and 10 bani pieces, which can be useful for small tips or donations. Currency Exchange > Lei can be difficult to get hold of outside Romania but fear not there are a few options for available. 1. Get it locally: The easiest option is to head to a cash machine once you’ve checked into your hotel in Bucharest to withdraw funds. There are plenty of ATMs around so it’s quick and convenient to get hold of your holiday cash just take note of the advice below. 2. Get it at home: If you’re absolutely set on getting your Romanian money organised before you travel, the Bureau de Change in M&S is, strangely, one of the only places that dispenses the local currency. 3. Get it online: You can also purchase currency online and collect it from your local post office or even have it delivered straight to your door. Ordering currency online with the Post Office is commission free and available for next day delivery. Obviously the more you buy the better rate you’ll receive. However you choose to get hold of your spending money, just make sure you either spend or convert your RON before you leave www.untravelledpaths.com

Romania as you’ll have difficulty changing it once you’ve left. ATMs (Bancomat) > Withdrawing funds from a local cash machine is simple and convenient, and it’s how we choose to get hold of our cash when we’re in the country. There are a few things to be aware of though. During the withdrawal you’ll be offered two exchange rates, one from the local bank and another from your UK bank. Make sure you opt to take you UK bank’s exchange rate as it will be substantially better value. Please also note that most cash machines charge approximately £1.50 per withdrawal so use them sparingly. If you’re keen to avoid being charged, Metro Bank offers accounts and cards that are free to use abroad both for cash withdrawals at ATMs and when paying on card machines. Avoid using the cash machines at the airport, instead wait until you’re in the centre of Bucharest. ATMs also have a habit of spitting out your cash first and your card second (unlike cash machines in the UK) so wait around until you have your card safely back in your hands before pocketing your cash and walking off! Credit/Debit Cards > Most major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard) are accepted throughout Romania’s main towns and cities. While you should have no problem using your card to pay for drinks or dinner in major towns and cities using your PIN number, some establishments accept cash only so it’s worth checking before you get settled in. It is also a good idea to carry some cash with you for smaller purchases and activities. It is always advisable to inform your bank that you’re travelling abroad in order to avoid the frustration of having your card blocked. Tipping > Tipping is not obligatory in Romania although rounding up taxi 08

The Basics > Cash & Currency

fares and adding 10% in restaurants is polite and common practice. If the service has been poor please don’t feel obligated to leave a tip. When it comes to tipping your guide and driver(s), and you’d like to offer a token of your appreciation, we believe 25 RON (approx. £4) per person represents a good tip for a job well done. Please let us stress that this is by no means expected so you needn’t feel obliged or pressured to do so!

Budget > In order to give you some direction on how much spending money to budget for your trip to Romania, we thought it would be a good idea to offer some guidelines in terms of costs. As a general rule, you’ll be able to have a good lunch for around £8 a head and will pay around £12 a head for a nice evening meal. Naturally, the type of establishment you choose to eat in and what you order will dictate the cost of your meals. Be aware that ordering imported wines can cause your bill to sky-rocket so drinking local wines is advisable. We reckon around £50 for lunch, dinner and drinks for two people is plenty per day. Please note that these are rough estimates and you can always choose to spend more or less depending on your budget and preferences. General Costs > The prices below for general items and sundries should give you a better idea of costs in Romania. Please note these are averages. Bottle of Water: 40p Pint of Beer: £1 - £1.50 Pack of Cigarettes: £2.50 One-Way Train Ticket: 30p MacDonald’s Big Mac: £2.30 Cinema Ticket: £3.40

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THE BASICS Weather & Climate

WEATHER & CLIMATE Romania’s Climate > With increasingly long summers and winters, the climate in Romania is rather extreme and plays host to some scorching months as well as a period of severe cold and snow. June, July and August are the hottest months of the year sometimes hitting up to 40 degrees. Average temperatures, however, range from a very pleasant 24 to 30 degrees in the summer but don’t forget the sun cream. That said, it’s not unusual for the weather to change quite drastically, particularly in the mountains so it’s a good idea to pack layers just in case. Average Climate Statistics > Warmest month is July; coldest month is January; average annual rainfall is 26 inches; highest recorded temperature was 44.5°C in 1951 in South-Eastern Romania; lowest recorded temperature was -38.5°C in 1942. Weather > Spring: The wonderful advantage of visiting Transylvania during the spring is the presence of wildflowers and butterflies that fill the Carpathian Mountains. The weather is very pleasant although there is also a slightly higher risk of rainfall during this time. Summer: June, July and August affords long hot sunny days and blue skies with little chance of rain. While temperatures can soar to around 40 degrees in Bucharest, the Transylvanian countryside tends to be a little cooler so you can enjoy the great outdoors. Autumn: September and October bring with it slightly fresher temperatures but days are most sunny, warm and dry with increased chance of showers.

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THE BASICS Food & Drink

FOOD & DRINK Romanian Cuisine > As with its multi-cultural history, Romania’s cuisine has been heavily influenced by its Balkan neighbours and previous occupiers featuring a fusion of Hungarian, Germanic, Turkish and Slavic dishes including cabbage rolls (sarmale), stews (tochitura), and moonshine (tuica) that’ll put hairs on your chest! Food tends to be heavy but comforting with a strong emphasis on meat (mainly pork, chicken and lamb), and polenta (mamaliga) or potatoes (cartofi) but with the welcome addition of an abundance of vegetables either in salad form or soaked in vinegar for a sharp kick. Smoked meats and sausages are a national favourite, and Romanians love their sour cream (smantana) and pungent garlic based sauces, so you’ll have no problem fending off any unwanted vampires! Romanian meals typically kick off with a bowl of ciorba, soup soured with lemon juice or vinegar that comes in plenty of varieties including ciorba de burta (tripe soup) served with a hot pepper to nibble on. Must Try Food & Drink > Sarmale (Romanian’s national dish consisting of pickled cabbage leaves stuffed with mince and rice, usually served with a good dollop of sour cream) Mici (little sausage-shaped meatballs dipped in sweet mustard); Mamaliga (a cornmeal mush served as a side dish and often referred to as ‘polenta’ on menus); Tochitura (pork stew in a rich tomato or wine sauce served with polenta, sour cream, and a fried egg on top for good measure); Ciorba (staple sour soup that comes in a number of varieties); Salata de vinete (smoked, mashed up aubergine); Zacusca (a thick vegetable sauce made from aubergines, red peppers, and onions that is spread generously on a slice of

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bread); Papanasi (deep-fried doughnuts filled with jam or cottage cheese); Covrigi (the Romanian version of a pretzel typically sprinkled with poppy or sesame seeds); Tuica or palinka (the local firewater made from plums). Sweet Treats > Like the rest of the Balkans, Romanians like their cakes and desserts tooth-achingly sweet. Papanasi - fried doughnuts topped with sweetened cheese, jam and cream – are the country’s national treasure, and crepes (clatite) are a firm favourite dripping with chocolate, jam and fruits. You’ll see gogosi sold all over the place with street windows dedicated specifically to dolling out these donught-like snacks dusted with sugar or stuffed with fruit. During the festive season, cozonac (sweet bread jeweled with dried fruits and walnuts) and kurtoskalacs (cylinder of dough baked over a spit and coated with cinnamon sugar, often known as chimney cake) take centre stage so make sure you get a fix if you’re lucky enough to be visiting at that time.

Firewater > Outranking wine and beer, the most popular and traditional tipple amongst locals is tuica and palinca - a type of plum brandy. Plums, and even apples or pears, are aged in mulberry tree barrels then double distilled to produce a seriously fiery liquor that Romanians knock back with startling ease. If you want a real challenge, down a shot of tuica or palinca without reacting! The most potent batches are home brewed, colourless, and stored in unassuming plastic bottles that could easily be mistaken for water so make sure you sniff the liquid before you take a large swig! You won’t make that mistake twice! Restaurant Reservations > If you find a restaurant or bar in the booklet that takes your fancy, we’re more than happy to book a table for your party on your behalf for a time and date of your choosing. Just let us know in advance and we’ll get it all organized for you.

Wine > With a long history of winemaking dating back over 4,000 years and the ideal Mediterranean climate and soil, Romania is one of the biggest producers of wine in Europe. From dry, sparkling whites to rich, aromatic reds, a wide variety of wines is produced here. The most popular domestic grapes include feteasca alba (semi-dry and balanced white) and feteasca neagra (semi-sweet, medium bodied, and light red). For top notch wines, look out for bottles originating from the Tarnave plateau (white), Cotnari (white), Dealu (red), Murfatlar, and Odobesti.

The Basics > Food & Drink

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PREPARATION & PACKING

THE BASICS

Footwear > Obviously not a good idea to head into the woods with a pair of high heels or flip-flops on. Wear shoes that will be comfortable for walking like a sturdy pair of trainers or some walking boots. Again, darker colours are preferable.

Preparation & Packing

Clothing > The aim of the game whilst observing wild animals is to remain as inconspicuous as possible, so dark-coloured clothing is key here. Think black, navy blue and dark green attire. Remember, you want to see the bears but you don’t want them to see you! You might also want to bring a few layers as the temperature drops in the evening and you’ll be sitting still for quite a while. Please also ensure you bring a waterproof with you just in case!

Essentials > The vast majority of us haven’t spent much time in the woods tracking wild animals so we thought we’d put together a list of recommended items to pack in your suitcase and bring with you on the excursions. If you have any further queries on clothing or essentials though, please do let us know and we will advise you accordingly. o Backpack o Sun cream o Insect repellent o Water o Binoculars o Sunglasses o Camera www.untravelledpaths.com

THE BASICS Health & Safety

HEALTH & SAFETY Emergency Contacts > In the unlikely event you experience any problems whilst travelling in Romania with Untravelled Paths please contact Cristina Brebenel on +40732 673 853. She is an absolute super-woman so donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hesitate to contact her should there be a problem no matter how big or small. On arrival, you will be provided with a business card containing all the relevant contact details for both Cristina and your bi-lingual guide, should you need them. Alternatively, you can call the Untravelled Paths office on +44207 101 4061. Crime > Romania is not a dangerous country when it comes to crime and personal safety. As violent crime tourists is pretty much non-existent, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re highly unlikely to experience any problems during your stay here. However, applying basic common-sense rules should be sufficient in preventing instances of petty crime so avoid flashing any valuable items, and keep an eye on your camera, phone and wallet. Water > Tap water is safe to drink practically everywhere, but most people stick to bottled water to be on the safe side. We would highly recommend drinking bottled or filtered water during your stay in Transylvania. Stray Dogs > You might encounter a few stray dogs during your stay in Romania, particularly in Bucharest. The dogs are very unlikely to cause you any trouble, but if you encounter any sort of confrontation with stray dogs, try to remain calm and walk away slowly, avoiding eye contact.

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Smoking > Smoking in public places is officially prohibited in Romania. Having only recently been introduced (March 2016), the ban is very much a new and unfamiliar development for the locals, the vast majority of which are heavy smokers. Should you choose to smoke in Transylvanian, we kindly ask you to respect the environment by disposing of cigarette butts in bins rather than throwing them just anywhere.

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Medication & First Aid > To ensure you’re covered from all angles, we suggest considering packing a small medical kit with the following items, just in case: • Antibacterial hand gel • Antidiarrheal tablets, eg. Imodium • High factor sun cream • Antihistamines • Insect repellent • Painkillers and anti-inflammatories • Tissues • Personal mediation Toilets > Public toilets in Romania aren’t particularly easy to find but your best bet would be to use the loo in hotels, department stores or fast-food restaurants. It is also advisable to carry some tissues around with you just in case you find yourself short! In case of any confusion, look for femei for women or barbate for men.

before you set off, and use a reputable company like Speed Taxi (021 9477) and Meridian (021 9444). Alternatively, if you’ve got a smartphone you can download the Uber app, which tracks your location and sends a taxi straight to your door usually within 5 minutes or so! You don’t have to worry about the language barrier because you can type the address into the destination bar, and the fee is charged directly to your card so no need to fumble around for cash! The Environment > Please be respectful of the environment when you are visiting bear country. Pick up any rubbish you may have accumulated and keep the noise to a minimum. Bears > During your trip to the Bear Hide you will be accompanied by an experienced local tracker that is professionally trained in and used to dealing with wild animals, so you’re in safe hands at the bear hide and for any other bear-related excursions. Typically, your tracker will carry an electric rod and/or a can of mace spray in the unlikely event that you should run into any problems. All we ask is that you listen carefully to any safety instructions you are given and pay attention to your surroundings.

Taxis > Taxi drivers in Bucharest have a deserved reputation for harassing and ripping off foreigners. All taxis have their tariffs plastered on the side, the standard rate is 1.39 Lei/km. DO NOT get in a taxi with a tariff over 2 Lei/km, ensure the driver switches his meter on 20

The Basics > Health & Safety

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BUCHAREST

SEE Palace of the Parliament (26-27) Revolution Square (28-29) Peasant Museum (30-31)

DO Bucharest City Tour (32-33) Red Panda Animal Shelter (32-35)

EAT Caru cu Bere (44-45) The Artist (46-47) Beca’s Kitchen (46-47)

CHILL

Energeia (48-49) Café Van Gogh (48-49)

DRINK Origo (50-51) Nomad (50-51)

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WHEN YOU SCRATCH BENEATH THE SURFACE, YOU’LL NOTICE THAT BUCHAREST IS A CITY OF STUNNING

CONTRAST

BUCHAREST

Imagine introducing a Communist dictator to Paris for 15 years, add an earthquake for good measure and you’ll end up with something similar to what you have in Bucharest. Fortunately much of Bucharest’s past beauty still remains and you’re likely to find it with every wrong turn you make. It’s a city full of surprises and it’s this contrast that makes it such a fascinating place to explore. At first glance the city might seem a little run down with remnants of its communist past on full view, however when you look a little closer and scratch beneath the surface it is a city of stunning contrast. In fact, it is the contrast that we love so much about Bucharest, its towering communist blocks sitting right next to the most beautiful buildings showcasing wonderful examples of belle époque architecture. You’re also likely to notice a few things other things in Bucharest — cars and dogs! Romania’s capital has an abundance of both. The latter being a sad after effect of Nicolae Ceausescu’s programme of systematisation, where he methodically moved families from their houses to purpose built communist blocks and often household pets had to be left behind. A lot of people seem to be intimidated or put off by Bucharest, but if you can get past preconceptions you might find yourself pleasantly surprised! The old district of Lipscani (pronounced locally as Lip-scan) is the beating heart of the city and our favourite place to wine and dine in the evenings. There are tons of quaint eateries and buzzing bars amongst the historic backstreets so take your pick.

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PALACE OF THE PARLIAMENT

SEE

Billed as the most famous and most controversial building in Romania from the legacy of Ceausescu, the extravagant Palace of the Parliament is well worth a visit. At 86m high and 92m deep, this grandiose structure is the world's second largest building behind the Pentagon and is where Romania's parliaments sits today. Commonly known as the People's Palace, the building contains a whopping 1,100 rooms that are spread across 12 floors both above and below ground level. Despite being home to Romania's Museum of Contemporary Art, the vast majority of the palace sits vacant and remains unused. If you decide you'd like to take the public tour of the building you’ll need to remember to bring your passport or driving licence with you, and it might be worth asking a member of the UTP team to make the reservation for you as opening hours can be a bit erratic. Inside you'll be greeted by offensively large marble-plated halls, enormous sweeping staircases and some rather out of place conference rooms. The trip onto the wide roof terrace is probably the highlight of the tour as it offers incredible views over the sprawling capital city. Please note that those wanting to take pictures will need to pay an additional fee for the privilege, which works out around £5. If your time in Bucharest is limited you'd be better off just taking a look from the outside to get an idea of the sheer magnitude of the building. For the most impressive shots, head over to Piata Unirii. Calea 13 Septembrie 1; Open Mon to Sun 10:00 – 16:00 (last tour at 15:15); 25 lei entry for a standard tour

Bucharest > See > Palace of the Parliament

REVOLUTION SQUARE

Located just a ten minute stroll north of the Lipscani district, Revolution Square is a significant historical and cultural site that is an absolute must-see.

SEE

Renamed after the 1989 revolution, the square is home to some of the most beautiful buildings in Bucharest such as the Royal Palace, the University Library and the stunning Romanian Atheneum which showcases some stunning baroque architecture and is now used as an auditorium that is world renowned for its incredible acoustics. Aside from the impressive architecture and the bold statue of King Carol I, perhaps the most striking feature to grace the square is the extraordinary looking Memorial of Rebirth, which was built to commemorate the victims of the popular revolt against Ceausescu’s regime, which erupted in the square during the dictator’s final speech and led to the fall of communism. The memorial, which features a metal ball spiked on a 25 metre high marble pillar, has been described in various manners from the literal ‘olive on a toothpick’ to the more metaphorical ‘potato of the revolution’. We’ll leave you to make your mind up on the symbolism.

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PEASANT MUSEUM

SEE

If the weather isn’t pleasant enough for a trip around the Village Museum then head to the Peasant Museum and immerse yourself in the culture and traditions of the country’s peasant lifestyle over the past four centuries. Boasting a rich collection of artefacts, ceramics and textiles including traditional clothing, ancient religious icons and terracotta pottery, this original museum has received the honourable European Museum of the Year Award and is considered to be one of the best museums in the country. Spend an hour after lunch exploring the exhibitions at your leisure or purchase an audio guide for around £2. At least once a month, the museum hosts a range of craft fairs as well as puppet shows for children each Saturday and Sunday morning, both of which take place in the rear courtyard of the Peasant Museum’s beautiful red-brick building. Sos. Kiseleff 3; Open Tues to Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon; Admission 8 lei (around £1.50), 2 lei children

Bucharest > See > Peasant Museum

BUCHAREST CITY TOUR

Experience Bucharest on foot and let your guide help unravel the stories behind the eclectic mix of architecture and fascinating Communist history while you map stays in your pocket and the city. An interesting way to understand the country’s turbulent past and also a fantastic opportunity to help you get your bearings of the city. Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes Price: 60 RON per person

RED PANDA DOG SHELTER

Bucharest’s problem with stray dogs has been rife ever since Communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu’s programme of systematisation was enforced and families were moved into purpose-built communist blocks, having to leave household pets behind. The situation has continued to worsen over the years and now there is an average of 1 stray dog for every 31 residents in Bucharest. The wonderful people at Red Panda Romania in Bucharest are desperately trying to do their bit by rescuing as many abandoned animals as possible, offering them shelter, food and TLC. Once the animals have been vaccinated and 32

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spayed or neutered, Red Panda works to find adoption or foster care for them. Some of the dogs at the shelter, however, still haven’t been adopted which means that spaces are limited and fewer animals can be taken in and looked after. Finding volunteers who will take some time out to visit the dogs and play with them is also difficult along with raising the funds to buy food, vaccinations and essential supplies. Adoptive and foster families are also highly sought after which is why James and Marion took in five abandoned puppies, five dogs, four cats and one very poorly kitten during their time in Bucharest until they could be re-homed. During the visit, you’ll be shown around the shelter, introduced to the animals and given the opportunity to play with them and give them some much needed attention.

Please let us know in advance if you’d like to visit as we’ll need to ensure a volunteer is available to show you around. We can also assist you in arranging transport to and from the shelter. We recommend an optional donation of 70 RON per person. Further Info: If you’re looking for a puppy or a pet then you might find one here – the adoption process is seamless and all taken care of by Red Panda including micro-chips, vaccinations, passport and transport. Additional donations can be made online if you’d like to help via Paypal (donate@red-panda.ro). You can follow them on Facebook before you arrive and when you get home to see how the animals are doing (www.facebook.com/RedPanda.Romania). 34

Bucharest > Do > Red Panda Dog Shelter

CARU’ CU BERE

EAT

Caru’ cu Bere, literally The Beer Wagon, is the place to come for traditional Romania fare in Bucharest. Dating back to 1879, the place is constantly buzzing and is worth visiting for the stunning interior alone, which boasts painted ceilings and ornate woodwork. Appetizing traditional dishes are on offer, local wines are served and of course there is beer, plenty of beer. We love the old newspaper style menus and recommend the bean soup with smoked bacon and red onion to start then a variety of mixed platters to share so you get a taste of a variety of Romanian specialities. The Romanian pork shank served with pan-fried sauerkraut and polenta is excellent and don’t forget to order a shot of palinka to toast your meal! On Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings a well-known folksong and dance ensemble will serenade you with traditional Romanian music and entertainment and although it can be a bit touristy, it’s also great fun. Service can be a bit slow but cheap prices and enjoyment value more than make up for it! Due to its popularity, it can be worth reserving a table in advance although if you don’t manage to book, do stop at the bar for a local beer and to soak up the atmosphere first. Str. Stavropoleos 5; Open Sun – Thurs 08:00 – 24:00, Fri – Sat 08:00 – 02:00; ££

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THE ARTIST If you’re looking for something a little bit different then The Artist is for you. With tantalising and experimental food from a young Dutch chef, the menu changes with the seasons so you’ll always be getting the freshest most exciting culinary delights of the moment. Opt for the ‘spoon-tasting’ menu for each course! The chic and modern interior complements the upmarket ambiance of the restaurant, and the prices are more than reasonable for the quality you receive. Perfect for foodies. Calea Victoriei 147; Open Tues to Sun 12:00 – 16:00; 17:00 – 22:30, closed Mon; ££££

EAT

BECA’S KITCHEN Healthy, homemade food with a gourmet twist. This little bistro feels more like having dinner at a good friend’s house with its simple interior and intimate atmosphere. Owner and chef, Andreaa Beca is always on hand to offer recommendations and explain the inspiration behind her dishes, which all feature organic, high quality ingredients and change regularly - just check out the blackboard menu. Although not old-town based, it is well worth the detour. Str. Mihai Eminescu 80; Open 18:00 – 22:00; Sat 12:00 – 22:00; Closed Sun & Mon; ££ 38

Bucharest > Eat > The Artist / Beca’s Kitchen

ENERGEIA

Serving up gastro-pub style food including sticky ribs and their signature artisan burger alongside colourful salads and feelgood soups, the food matches Energiea’s funky atmosphere complete with industrial chic decor. For drinks, expect exotic smoothies, fresh juices, lemonades with a twist and all the usual alcoholic suspects. With Origo as its next door neighbour, this corner of old town Bucharest (still a firm favourite amongst all the new pop up bars and restaurants) should be on your eat, drink and be merry hit list.

CHILL

Str. Brezoianu 4; Open Mon – Sun 12:00 – 01:00

CAFÉ VAN GOGH Not too busy or too loud, the atmosphere at Van Gogh is friendly, relaxed and wonderfully unpretentious and we reckon it’s the perfect place for pretty much anything - a leisurely morning coffee and croissant watching the world go by in front of the long windows; a light lunch of crunchy salads and toasted sandwiches set on lovely wooden tables; pre-dinner cocktails with friends and even a nightcap before bedtime (it’s right next door to the Rembrandt Hotel).

Str. Smardan 30; Open Sun to Thurs 16:00 – 02:00; Fri & Sat 16:00 – 06:00 40

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ORIGO With truly top class coffee from all over the world, and enthusiastic baristas that know their beans and machines, this little gem may as well snap up the title for best coffee house in Bucharest. And it’s not just about the excellent coffee and contemporary design touches (watch out for the ceiling hanging coffee cups strung up over the bar), when the sun goes down, laid-back Origo transforms into a cool cocktail-cum-wine bar. Ready, steady, coffee! Str. Lipscani 9; Open Mon to Fri 07:30 – 02:00, Sat 09:00 – 04:00, Sun 09:00 – 02:00

DRINK

NOMAD Not your usual bar entrance, a glass elevator whisks you up to Nomad in the heart of the Old Town. It’s a swanky sort of place with a funky design, a glass roof and a chic atmosphere for cocktails and some pre-dinner tapas. Funnily enough, it claims to be a ‘skybar’, which, despite the addition of an outdoor terrace, is rather unfounded! On the weekends, the place gets quite lively with a dj spinning tunes and dancing so we’d recommend booking a table just in case. Str. Smardan 30; Open Sun to Thurs 16:00 – 02:00; Fri & Sat 16:00 – 06:00 42

Bucharest > Drink > Origo / Nomad

PELES CASTLE

VISIT

Located in the mountain town of Sinaia, the magnificent Peles Castle is one of our top highlights in Romania. Built between 1875 and 1883 for King Carol I as a royal summer residence, Peles Castle cost over 16 million gold lei to construct, the equivalent of which works out at around ÂŁ10 million today! Set against a stunning alpine backdrop at the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains, the exterior of the castle is like something out of a fairytale with its spiked turrets, pointed towers and marble statues, elevated over acres of fields and meadows. The interior is even more magical still. Its 160 rooms are ornately and opulently decorated with stained glass windows depicting fairy tales, huge arched doorways, endless tapestries carpeting the marble floors, secret passageways and even a wooden stairway leading to nowhere. Peles was also the first castle in Europe to boast electricity, central heating and vacuum cleaning systems all of which are still working today, and houses Romaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first cinema room with original paintings from a young Gustav Klimt. Stretch your legs with a stroll around the grounds before heading inside to explore the castle with a guided tour of the stunning interior. Please note that Peles Castle has become quite popular in recent years so there is a chance that it will be busy. While this might be a little inconvenient, the castle is still well worth visiting and we try to do everything we can to ensure your visit runs as smoothly as possible. Many thanks in advance for your patience!

Bucharest > Visit > Peles Castle

SEE

Black Church (50-51) Black & White Towers (50-53) St. Nicholas Church (52-53)

BRASOV

Brasov Walking Tour (54-55)

EAT Bella Muzica (56-57) La Ceaun (58-59) Dei Frati (58-59)

DRINK

Doctor Jekelius (60-61) Hof CafÃ© (62-63) Simone (62-63)

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BRASOV

Nestled in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains and known as the gateway into Transylvania, the medieval Saxon town of Brasov is an absolute gem. A world away from the lively buzz of the capital city, Brasov provides the perfect base for exploring the Transylvanian countryside with its rural villages, fortified churches and thick forests as well as the infamous Bran Castle, would-be residence of mysterious Count Dracula. Set against a beautiful mountain backdrop and rich in clean fresh air, the pace of life in Brasovâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Old Town is noticeably slower and more relaxed than in Bucharest and is the ideal location for those who prefer to take in the atmosphere at a leisurely pace, ambling around the cobbled streets, stopping for a drink in one of the clusters of quaint cafes or heading to a restaurant for lunch or dinner. The townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distinctive medieval ambiance is reflected in its striking examples of gothic and baroque architecture, the most prominent of which has to be the Black Church with its smokeblackened walls and looming presence over the beautiful old square in the heart of the town. All the sights worth seeing in Brasov are accessible by foot including the narrowest street in Europe and the climb up to the top of the Black Tower where the entire city unfolds before your eyes.

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BLACK CHURCH

SEE

Looming over Brasov's main old town square, it's hard not to spot the imposing Black Church, which is said to be the largest church between Vienna and Istanbul. This stunning example of Gothic architecture dates back to 1477 and actually acquired its name after being blackened by smoke from the great fire of 1689, the restoration of which took nearly 100 years. As a result, the interior of the church is now mainly in Baroque architectural style but boasts the largest organ in Eastern Europe with a whopping 4000pipe organ that dates all the way back to 1839. Curtea Johannes Honterus 2; Open 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 12:00 15:00, Closed Mon; Admission 8 lei

BLACK & WHITE TOWERS Constructed by the Saxons between 1400 and 1650, the black and white towers were erected together with stonewalls and gates to build defensive fortifications to protect the town from invasion by the Mongols and the Turks. What we really love about these towers is the incredible views they afford over Brasov and the surrounding Transylvanian countryside. 50

Brasov > See > Black Church

For information on exactly how to get to the towers just ask your guide and they’ll give you some directions. You can pay to get into the towers but we think the views are just as good from the outside. For us, it's the white tower that wins when it comes to the view and it’s also easier to get to. Oh, and when you're up there see if you can spot the old ‘Stalin’ sign etched into the mountain. It’s hard to see, but you can still just about make it out. Str. Dupa Ziduri; Open Tue to Sun 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon; Admission 4 lei

SEE

ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH Established all the way back in 1219, this Romania Orthodox church looks like it has come straight out of a fairy tale and remains one of the prettiest churches we've come across. Originally built in Gothic architectural style, the church now showcases mainly Baroque elements while the interior has some lovely frescoes. People often miss the church as it's hidden away from the main square but it's well worth a look. While you're in the vicinity you can visit the first Romanian school located just opposite the church grounds, which opened its doors in 1583. Piaţa Unirii 1; Open 08:00 – 18:00; Donation (we suggest 2 lei)

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BRASOV WALKING TOUR

Make the most of your time in beautiful medieval Brasov with this walking tour. Showcasing the best of the town’s sights on foot with a kick of history and culture, the tour is wonderful way to absorb the atmosphere and essence of Brasov. As well as walking up to the fairytale church of St. Nicholas and past the first Romanian school, you’ll also journey through the one of the narrowest streets in Europe and hear all about the history behind the bemusing Brasov sign. Witness the looming presence of the gothic Black Church just off the main square and find out how it got its name.

Just let us know if you’d like to take part and we’ll arrange a time for you to join the tour. Payment is taken in local currency on arrival so no need to pay for anything before your trip. Duration: 1 hour Price: 50 RON per person

Brasov > Do > Walking Tour

THE BELLA MUZICA RESTAURANT

Occupying the catacombs of the Black Church, this lowceilinged cellar located in the hotel of the same name is perfect for a cosy evening meal complete with exposed brickwork and candlelight. The menu offers a strange combination of Hungarian and Mexican dishes at very reasonable prices. Go for the fajitas or the bean soup in bread, and beware of the handmade tortilla chips, they are delicious and very moreish! You can even order the soundtrack to your meal on the music menu. Make sure you’re not seated in area under the stairs, it isn’t half as cosy as the main seating area under the curved brick ceiling, and doesn’t have quite the same atmosphere.

EAT

Piata Sfatului 19; Open Mon to Sun 12:00 – 23:30; ££

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LA CEAUN

Take to opportunity to taste a hearty Romanian ciorba (stew) at this charming rustic eatery. Offering three different soups and stews each day, you’ll see (and sniff) them all bubbling away in a large metal cauldron (ceaun). At just a couple of pounds for a bowl of soup, La Ceaun is perfect for a quick, wallet-friendly lunch which you can devour at the wooden family-style table or take with you while you explore the sights. If you’d prefer a more leisurely meal with a greater variety of menu options, head to their sit-down restaurant through the left-hand door. Str. Michael Weiss 27; Open Mon to Sun 12:00 – 22:00; £

EAT

DEI FRATI

A top quality Italian restaurant serving up the freshest, homemade pasta in town (among other foodie delights)! This little gem is tucked away on an atmospheric Brasov backstreet boasting a cool, contemporary interior that always seems to be buzzing! Grab yourself a lovely bowl of perfectly cooked pasta and a glass of wine. You won’t regret it. Friendly atmosphere, great family-driven service and an excellent option for vegetarians too. Piata George Enescu 16; Open daily 11:30 – 22:30; £££

Brasov > Eat > La Ceaun / Dei Frati

DRINK

DOCTOR JEKELIUS

You could well be fooled into thinking that this cafe is an oldfashioned chemist with its worn exterior façade, pharmaceutical name and murky glass windows. Head inside, however, and you’ll be in for a surprise. The pharmacy-style decor dates back to 1905 and features rows of medicinal bottles lined on white-washed shelves, framed black and white pictures and old prescriptions, and furniture from a 1910 Saxon pharmacy. The cafe is named after Dr. Ferdinand Jekelius, a chemist who set up Brasov’s first pharmacy and was famous for prescribing natural remedies some of which are still available to order today! Choose from a long list of medical infusions aimed to treat particular ailments like the common cold or even a hangover, and if you’re feeling brave enough you could order an ‘anaesthetic’ which contains pure alcohol and is served in a long test tube! In fact, most of the drinks here are served in test tubes, glass beakers or measuring jugs which adds to the pharmaceutical flavour. Go and get yourself cured at one of our favourite cafes in Brasov.

Str. Michael Weiss 13; Open: Mon to Sun 08:00-24:00

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HOF CAFÉ

Is it a café or is it a bar? Located right on the main square but hidden from the tourist furor, Hof Café is technically both making it the perfect place to chill out morning, noon or night. The Nordic design creates a contemporary atmosphere and the board games add a touch of fun! Expect excellent coffee from far-flung places around the globe, exceptionally prepared cocktails, and a lovely selection of good quality lemonades. Café Hof even plays host to a number of special events including art exhibitions, movie screenings and concerts, so keep an eye out for something exciting going on while you’re in town. Piata Sfatului 14; Open Mon to Sun 09:00-24:00

DRINK

SIMONE Located off the main strip, this place is one of our top Brasov hangouts. Chilled, minimalist and cool, there’s coffee during the day and cocktails, music and dancing at night when a local DJ gets the atmosphere going later in the evenings. We haven’t eaten there but there’s a good range of vegetarian dishes on the menu if you’re feeling peckish. Str. Politehnicii 6; Open Sun to Thurs 09:00–01:00, Fri to Sat 09:0003:00 62

Brasov > Drink > Hof Cafe / Simone

VISIT

BRAN CASTLE Perched high atop a rocky plateau with imposing spiked turrets and blood-red towers, Bran Castle looms eerily over Transylvania cloaked in myth and legend. Commonly known as Dracula’s Castle, the 13th century castle is the real life setting of Bram Stoker’s sinister novel and the would-be residence of Count Dracula himself. Despite being a fictional character, Dracula was based on the Wallachian prince, Vlad Tepes also known as Vlad the Impaler, who allegedly spent some time at the castle during his bloodthirsty reign of terror. Dark narrow stairways wind through the castle connecting underground passage, watch towers that served as dungeons, and 57 rooms housing collections of Gothic furniture, weapons and armour dating all the way back to the 14th century. We have to admit that Bran isn’t our favourite castle in Romania and probably doesn’t live up to the hype but it’s a box-ticker and you can’t really leave without having a look! While you won’t be given a guided tour of the castle there are information points throughout the rooms as well as audio guides that you can purchase at the entrance point so you can choose to explore the castle at your leisure in whichever way you choose. As the famous Dracula’s Castle, please be aware that the castle will most likely be busy when you visit. We apologise for any inconvenience caused.

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SEE Carpathian Mountains (68-69) Bear Hide (70-71) Libearty Bear Sanctuary (72-73)

CARPATHIAN

MOUNTAINS

Carpathian Mountains Walk & BBQ (74-75) Transylvanian Tea (76-77) Rasnov Fortress (78-79)

BUY Bear Sanctuary Book (80-81)

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HOME TO A WHOPPING 60% OF EUROPEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S POPULATION OF BROWN BEARS

CARPATHIAN MOUNTAINS Home to one of the largest undisturbed forests in Europe, the Carpathian Mountains form a semi-circle around Transylvania and are made up of numerous national parks that represent outstanding natural beauty complete with dense forest, glacial lakes and lush rolling hills. At over 24km long and almost 2,000m high, Piatra Carilului also features the longest and highest limestone ridge in Romania and boasts some of the most breathtaking scenery in the Carpathian Mountains. In fact, the landscape is so beautiful that the backdrop scenes for Cold Mountain were shot here. Of an estimated worldwide population of 200,000 brown bears, the Carpathian Mountains in Romania host a whopping 60% of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brown bears. The Ursos Actos are amongst the largest living carnivores in the world, weighing up to 350kg and living for approximately 30 years with strong hearing and an excellent sense of smell. In Romania, the record weight found here is reported as 480kg! At the bear hide, you are highly likely to catch a glimpse of the bears feeding with around a 90% chance of sightings, while your trip to the Libearty Bear Sanctuary will provide plenty of opportunities to get up close and personal with the rescued bears. Aside from its population of Brown bears, the national park also shelters one of the largest biodiversity of wildlife in the country including chamois, wild boar, wolves and the elusive lynx as well as 110 of species of bird, 270 species of butterfly and a plethora of fauna.

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BEAR HIDE

SEE

Taking place in the evening during the last few hours before dusk and then darkness fall over the Carpathian Mountains, your trip to the Bear Hide is where you’re most likely to have the opportunity of seeing wild bears in their natural habitat. The hide itself is effectively a tree-house observation cabin where you sit and wait for the bears to come and feed. Foresters leave tempting morsels of food around the area with the aim of attracting the bears over for a feast so all you have to do is sit tight and wait for them to show up! In nine years we’ve only had once instance where bears weren’t sighted so there’s a high probability that you’ll get a glimpse. In fact, the last time we were up at the hide, we had a huge brown bear come within ten metres of the cabin! The duration of the experience varies throughout the season depending on the exact location of the hide and the time of year but you can expect it to last anywhere from two to four hours. Depending on which hide the tracker chooses to use, it can be between a ten minute to a thirty minute walk to the location of the hide so please ensure you’re wearing suitable footwear. You’ll also need dark clothing and some layers for when the sun goes down! For those travelling during the summer months (June to August), we highly recommend opting in for the Transylvanian Tea, which takes place just before you head off to the hide in the late afternoon. For more information please see the relevant section of this guide.

Carpathian Mountains > See > Bear Hide

SEE

THE LIBEARTY BEAR SANCTUARY

Constructed in 2005 with the help of the World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA), the Libearty Sanctuary is based near Brasov and is home to over 70 brown bears that have been rescued from appalling conditions in captivity. These poor animals were often found suffering in tiny, rusted cages around the country where they would be used for ‘entertainment’ purposes, living on a poor diet and little or no veterinary care whatsoever. The sanctuary itself is a haven of oak and hazel forests, streams and pools set over 173 acres in the Carpathian Mountains, divided into large forested enclosures containing hibernation dens and hundreds of trees where the bears enjoy climbing, foraging for natural vegetation, nuts and berries and cooling off in pools of water that are scattered across the lush grounds. During the tour you’ll be introduced to the bears and will hear about their individual stories from captivity to rescue. Although you’re likely to get a good look at the bears from a safe distance it is important to note that the sanctuary is not a zoo and the welfare of the animals is the main priority so while many of the bears will choose to rest near the fences or play in the open meadow areas, they may also prefer to remain within the privacy of the forests. Monetary donations all fund the running of the sanctuary and you can even adopt a bear via donation online at www.ampbears.ro for around £60.

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CARPATHIAN MOUNTAINS WALK & BBQ

The Carpathian Mountains and Piatra Craiului National Park in particular, boast wonderful alpine views that stretch across over 15,000 hectares and feature beautiful alpine meadows rich in wild flora and fauna as well as caves, mountain creeks, and of course dense forests hosting an impressive number of animals.

The Carpathian Mountains Walk & BBQ is a fabulous and active afternoon out in the fresh air amongst all things bright and beautiful. You’ll head out with a local guide who’ll lead you through the mountains along pretty country trails, pointing out interesting wildlife along the way as well as an possible animal tracks that might be spotted. At the end of the trail you’ll be treated to a fabulous Romanian style barbeque lunch featuring local specialties, snacks and drinks that you can enjoy in the beauty of the Transylvanian countryside. The trail takes a couple of hours to complete and while the terrain is not challenging, a reasonable level of fitness is required. Please let us know if you have any queries regarding this matter as well as any dietary requirements for the barbeque. Duration: 3 - 4 hours Price: 235 RON per person; includes transfers to/from Brasov

Carpathian Mountains > Do > Carpathian Mountains Walk & BBQ

TRANSYLVANIAN TEA Taking place just before you head off to the Bear Hide in the late afternoon, this traditional tea is a wonderful opportunity to enjoy a selection of home-made Transylvanian treats including local meats and cheeses, home-grown vegetables, cakes and freshly pressed juices. This may well be your only chance to eat between lunch and breakfast the next morning and it really is a great spread so we highly recommend it. Please note this activity is only available between from June to August as other times of year the sun sets earlier so youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be back in Brasov in time for dinner. If you'd like to book, please let us know in advance along with any allergies or specific dietary requirements you may have so we can make all the necessary arrangements. Payment is taken on arrival in local currency and prices are charged per person. Time: Before the Bear Hide (June â&#x20AC;&#x201C; August) Price: 75 RON

DO 76

Notes: Although slightly more expensive than a meal in a local restaurant please note that the food provided for the tea is all fresh, authentic and homemade. The timing of the tea varies throughout the season however your guide will advise you when it will take place during your trip.

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RASNOV FORTRESS

Located on a rocky hilltop in the Carpathian Mountains, the crumbling fort of Rasnov towers at nearly 200m over the sprawling Transylvanian countryside below. The fortress was built in 1215 by Teutonic Knights and was used a defensive stronghold against the invading Tartar army with its nine towers, two bastions and drawbridge. It was said to be owned by Vlad the Impaler’s grandfather, Mircea the Old. Throughout its history, the fortress was only forced to surrender once in 1612 when invaders located and cut off the citadel’s hidden water source after which it was decided that the construction of a well was the only way to provide safe access to water within the castle walls during sieges. Local legend has it that two Turkish prisoners were tasked with the job in exchange for their freedom upon completion of the well. Starting in 1623, it took the two men 17 years to dig the 143m deep well through the solid rock in the centre of the citadel and they were still executed. Poor chaps! The last siege of Rasnov Fortress took place in 1690 during the final Ottoman invasion of Transylvania. Damaged by fire in 1718, it was rebuilt the following year but damaged yet again by an earthquake in 1802. The fortress was then used as a place of refuge during the revolution of 1848 and was later abandoned. Nowadays, the remains of the old fortress are a pleasure to wander around with maze-like rooms connected by old wooden ladders, secret passageways, and even a museum boasting a skeleton buried beneath a glass floor along with some other interesting artefacts. Duration: 1 – 2 hours Price: 100 RON per person, includes return transfers to/from Brasov Notes: Minimum of 4 people 78

Carpathian Mountains > Visit > Rasnov Fortress

BEAR SANCTUARY BOOK This wonderfully illustrated book by Victor Watkins tells the story of how and why an oak forest in the heart of Romania was transformed into a retirement home for rescued bears. It describes how young bear cubs were illegally caught from the wild and kept in small cages near petrol stations and restaurants to attract customers, and how many bears were suffering from poor diets and little or no veterinary care in many zoos around the country.

BUY

With changing attitudes towards wildlife exploitation and with Romania becoming a member of the European Union, the time was right to ban the private keeping of captive bears and to close down the poorly managed zoos. Each rescued bear has its own story. He also explains what veterinary care the bears need, what their diet is in the wild and how bear cubs, orphaned through hunting, need care and rehabilitation to enable their release back to the wild. There’s even a section dedicated to other bear sanctuaries around the world - in Turkey, Greece, Thailand and even in China. The book is available on Amazon. You can purchase paperback and digital versions online before and after your trip, or in Romania during your visit to the Libearty Bear Sanctuary. Price: £9.99 (paperback); around £2 (digital) Link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bear-Sanctuary-Victor-

Watkins/dp/095677850X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&m=A1N3JKKU9KJY VI&s

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LANGUAGE

ROMANIAN

Based on previous feedback, we decided to add a list of basic Romanian words and phrases to help you bridge the language barrier, get you into mystical, faraway-land mode and ease the sense of feeling lost when surrounded by an unknown language. Of course, there will always be our bilingual guide with you so you shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t run into any difficulties, and English is widely spoken, particularly by the younger generation, but it can always be fun to try to pick up a new language. As a Romance Language, those who have a broad understanding of French or Italian will probably find that they can understand a fair bit of Romanian so it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel completely alien. In parts of Transylvania, German is also understood, if not spoken. Overall, we reckon the Romanian language sounds like a mixture of Italian and Russian and is pretty pleasant to listen to. The pronunciation guide and the words and phrases listed over the following few pages will be more than enough to help you get by but if you want to say something specific, ask your guide. Go on, have a go yourself!

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PRONOUNCIATION

NUMBERS

The Romanian alphabet uses 31 letters which are similar to the letters found in the English alphabet apart from the additional 5 special letter that are known as 'diacritics': ă - ș - ţ - â – î.

One

unu (oo-noo)

Two

doi (doy)

Three

trei (tray)

Four

patru (pah-troo)

Five

cinci (cheench)

Six

şase (shah-seh)

ă – like ‘e’ in father

Seven

şapte (shahp-teh)

e – like ‘e’ in tell

Eight

opt (ohpt)

Nine

nouă (noh-uh)

Ten

zece (zeh-cheh)

Certain letters and combinations of letters are pronounced differently to the way they would be in the English language. The information below should help you to pronounce the letters that are different to our own correctly so that you can learn how to put together words and phrases properly.

i – like ‘i’ in pick j – like ‘su’ in leisure

IMPORTANT SIGNS

ş – like ‘sh’ in shoe ţ – like ‘ts’ in fits ce – like ‘che’ in check

Men

Bărbaţi (buhr-bats)

gi – like ‘gi’ in gin

Women

Femei (feh-mey)

ge – like ‘ge’ in gender

Entrance

Intrare (in-tra-re)

chi – like ‘ki’ in skill

Exit

Ieşire (ye-shi-re)

Open

Deschis (dehs-kis)

Closed

Închis (yn-kis)

che – like ‘che’ in chemistry ghi – like ‘gi’ in give ghi – like ‘gue’ in guess

The Rest > Language > Pronunciation

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WORDS & PHRASES

Same again

Incă un / una Useful when you want to order another beer or glass of wine – just point to your drink(s)!

Yes

Da (dah)

Cheers!

Nu (noo)

Noroc! (nor-ock) Use this when you’re being encouraged to drink palinka. It literally means ‘good luck’ – you’ll need it!

Please

Vă rog (vuh-rohg)

Here

Thank you

Mulţumesc (mool-tzu-mesk) If in doubt, just say mersi, it’s informal and easy to remember! Just imagine you’re in France.

Aici (ah-ee-ch) Use this in a taxi when you want the driver to pull over.

Still water

Apă plată (ah-puh plah-tah) If you ask for mineral water it will be fizzy.

I don't understand

Nu înţeleg (noo oohn-tzeh-leg) Always good to let people know you’re not trying to be rude.

Bathroom

Toaleta? (oon-deh yeh twah-leh-tah) Just in case you need to go to the loo!

I love you

Te iubesc (teh yoo-besk) Probably best not to use this on strangers but p erfect for romantic brownie points!

Hello

Salut (sah-loot) Like the French – easy.

Goodbye

La revedere (lah reh-veh-deh-reh) Pa is also used and is less of a tongue-twister. You can say ciao too if you’re stuck!

Good day

Bună ziua (boo-nuh zee-wah) You can always just nod and say ‘buna’ if it’s too much of a mouthful

Good evening

Bună seara (boo-nuh syah-ruh) Very much like the Italian – buona-sera.

How are you?

Ce faci? (cheh fahtch)

Fine, thank you.

Mulţumesc, bine (bee-neh) Bine also means ‘good’ or ‘okay’.

The bill

Notă (no-ta) A handy word to use when asking for the bill without having to compose a sentence!

The Rest > Language > Words & Phrases

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FAQS Frequently Asked Questions

FAQs Will we definitely see bears? When it comes to spotting bears in the wild, your best chance is at the bear hide. In nine years, there’s only been one occasion that the bears didn’t show up at the hide so that ought to give you a good idea of how likely you are to catch a glimpse of them! You will, of course, see quite a few rescued bears at the Libearty Bear Sanctuary so you won’t go home without seeing at least one bear. What sort of clothing should I wear for the bear hide? The aim of the game whilst observing wild animals is to remain as inconspicuous as possible, so dark-coloured clothing is key here. Think black, navy blue and dark green attire. Remember, you want to see the bears but you don’t want them to see you! You might also want to bring a few layers as the temperature drops in the evening and you’ll be sitting still for quite a while. What about footwear? Obviously not a good idea to head into the woods with a pair of high heels or flip-flops on. Wear shoes that will be comfortable for walking like a sturdy pair of trainers or some walking boots. Again, darker colours are preferable. Remember that you may be required to walk up to thirty minutes through the forest to reach the location of the hide. Do I need binoculars? Binoculars are not essential but they would certainly enhance the experience as well as keeping you entertained during quieter moments, enabling you to keep an eye out for any distant rustles or other wildlife. If you’ve got a pair please do go ahead and pack them

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for the trip but don’t worry too much if you haven’t. Is there anything in particular I should bring? Yes, there are a few things. A small backpack can be useful to carry all your essentials while keeping your hands free. A bottle of water is always practical and don’t forget your sun cream for hot days walking in the mountains and insect repellent to keep mosquitos away at dusk in the hide. How safe are we? Very. With an experienced local tracker that is professionally trained in tracking and dealing with wild animals, you’re in safe hands for all of the bear tracking excursions. Typically, your tracker will carry an electric rod and/or a can of mace spray in the unlikely event that you should run into any problems. During the mating season it is common for trackers to carry a gun with them so please do not be alarmed. How can I make myself inconspicuous and camouflaged? You’ll want to try to blend into the environment as much as you can to encourage bears into the vicinity and of course to ensure that you remain hidden! Common sense applies here so keeping quiet, wearing dark clothing and sticking to the recommendations listed above in terms of clothing and footwear is advised. You’ll also want to make sure that phones are switched off! Is it okay to take photos at the Bear Hide? Yes, of course. Although there are certain rules you’ll need to follow if you’d like to capture the experience on film. The use of flash, automatic focusing functions, continuous modes or settings that detect red eye are not permitted as the bears will be alerted by your presence and may react or vacate the area. If you are unsure about which camera settings you should use, ask your tracker. 90

The Rest > FAQs

Can I bring my phone into the woods with me? You’re free to keep your mobile phone with you on bear hide however they should be switched off for the duration. If you’re planning on using your phone camera to take photos or film you’ll need to make sure the settings comply with the regulations. Why do I have to avoid wearing perfume? As with most animals, bears have an advanced sense of smell and while you’ll be wanting to get close enough to catch a glimpse of these magnificent creatures you won’t want them to be seeking you out. We recommend that you hold off on spraying yourself with perfume, just in case. In the same way, it is also best to avoid any other strong smelling lotions and potions on your skin or hair. Can we talk during the Bear Hide? In order to observe bears in the wild, talking and noise in general need to be kept to an absolute minimum. If necessary, communicate in whispers and consider removing camera and binocular cases prior to arriving at the hide, and limit movement within the hide. Are there any other rules we need to follow? Yes. Food and drinks are not to be brought or consumed at the hide, with the exception of water. The smell of food and the noise that usually accompanies the consumption of food may be picked up by any wildlife in the vicinity therefore decreasing your chances of sightings. Movement within the hide should also be kept to an absolute minimum. Prior to your arrival your tracker will ask you to sign a declaration listing all rules and restrictions. If you’re unsure, please don’t hesitate to ask.

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TIPS & TRICKS • • •

TIPS & TRICKS

• • • •

• • • • • •

Wear sun cream! Be patient with service in bars and restaurants, it’s often slow and frustrating Romanians like their coffee strong, black and incredibly sweet. You have been warned! Wifi is widely available and free so log yourself on and connect The Romanian beers are called Ursus and Ciuc You’ve got to try tuica, the national drink, at least once but be careful not to blow your head off – it’s powerful stuff It’s not uncommon to hear English spoken in an American accent by the younger generation of Romanians as there is so much American TV around! Stews and bean soup are a safe bet for food and if in doubt, go for snitzel Condiments are ordered and charged for separately so you’ll need to let your waiter know if you want butter, ketchup etc. If you don't want bread, say so or it will be brought to your table and added to your bill Water and soft drinks are served without ice unless requested Avoid using ATM machines that are not attached to bank, you’ll get a terrible exchange rate If the language stumps you, you can easily fall back on these basic French and Italian words: salut (hello), merci (thanks) and ciao (bye)

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•

• • •

•

• •

•

Only get in taxis that have 1.39 on the side, make sure the meter is on and don’t agree on a price before you set off as you’ll get ripped off! Don’t spend more than a few lei on a taxi ride around town in Bucharest Museum entry is cheap but if you want to use your camera you’ll have to pay a rather outrageous fee for the privilege. Don’t be surprised if an older shopkeeper quotes you an extortionately high price for a bottle of water – the older generation add zeros Tipping is not obligatory in Romania although rounding up taxi fares and adding 10% in restaurants is polite and common practice. Don’t turn your nose up at the pastries and sandwiches in the petrol stations, they’re much nicer and fresher than you think! Don’t bother looking for your seatbelt in taxis, you’ll be hard pressed to find a Romanian taxi that provides fully functioning ones Wine mixed with sparkling water (șpriţ) is popular in the summer so don’t be surprised if you waiter asks if you’d like some water mixed in with your wine Try to keep small denomination notes like 1 leu and 5 lei handy for small shop items, cafes or tips. Getting change for the 100 lei notes that cash machines tend to dispense can be tricky YOU’VE GOT TO TRY TUICA, THE NATIONAL DRINK AT LEAST ONCE

The Rest > Tips & Tricks

DID YOU KNOW?

• Romania comes from the Latin ‘Romanus’ meaning ‘citizen of the Roman Empire’ • Romania is roughly the same size as the United Kingdom – 92,043 square miles • The Carpathian Mountains are home to one of the largest undisturbed forests in Europe as well as 60% of Europe’s Brown Bear population • Timisoara was the first city in Europe to have electric street lights in 1889 • The Palace of the Parliament in Bucharest is the second largest building in the world • The fountain pen was invented by the Romanian, Petrache Poenaru, in 1827 • Transylvania translates to ‘the land beyond the forest’ • Peles Castle was the first in Europe with electricity and central heating • Romanian gymnast, Nadia Comaneci, was the first to achieve a perfect score of 10.00 in the history of gymnastics during the Montreal Olympics in 1976 • The tallest wooden church in the world is in Maramures, north of Romania • Brasov is home to the narrowest street in Europe – Strada Sforii (The Rope Street) is approximately four feet wide

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• Brasov is home to the narrowest street in Europe – Strada Sforii (The Rope Street) is approximately four feet wide and was initially used as an access-route by firefighters • Hollywood movie Cold Mountain was filmed in Romania’s Carpathian Mountains starring Jude Law, Renee Zellweger and Nicole Kidman • The ASTRA Museum in Sibiu is the second largest outdoor museum in the world • The 1920s ‘Dada’ movement (Dadaism) was co-founded by Romanian artists Tristan Tzara and Marcel Iancu • On March 1 Romanians celebrate the beginning of spring in their own unique way. To show their respect, men and boys offer their female loved ones a ‘Martisor’ (small trinkets attached to a red/white lace – red for love, white for honesty) • The real Dracula (Vlad Tepes or Vlad the Impaler) was a Romanian prince and military leader who fought the Turks in the Middle Ages. Count Dracula the vampire was created by Irish writer, Bram Stoker in 1897 • The Romanian language is spoken by over 25 million people and is 1,700 years old • Brasov is home to the largest gothic church east of Vienna which not only holds the largest organ in Europe with 4000 tubes but also houses the largest bell in Romania, weighing in at a whopping 6.3 tons • The jet engine used by modern airplanes was invented by Bucharest-born aerodynamics pioneer Henri Coanda

The Rest > Did You Know?

THE TALLEST WOODEN CHURCH IN THE WORLD IS FOUND IN MARAMURES

WITH THANKS

We hope this booklet has been useful to you and we’d love to know what you think. So if you’ve noticed any mistakes, or inconsistencies then please do get in touch and let us know.

WITH THANKS

We’re always looking for feedback too so if you think something’s been misleading or you happen to stumble upon a little gem of a restaurant, a gorgeous little café or a buzzing bar that you think deserves a mention then please do fill us in. We’re sure there are plenty of hidden delights we have yet to discover! Oh, and we also accept positive comments. Enjoy your trip! The Untravelled Paths Team KEEP IN TOUCH: Untravelled Paths 24 Ferncroft Avenue London NW3 7PH www.untravelledpaths.com info@untravelledpaths.com 0207 101 4061 Facebook: /UntravelledPaths Twitter: @untravpaths

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TRIP DISCOUNTS

Just to say thank you for travelling with us, we’re happy to offer you a 10% discount on any other Untravelled Paths experience within 18 months of your trip. Simply let us know during the booking process that you’re a UTP super client but please note that this discount is not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Take a look online for some inspiration on the sorts of experience we have in our collection and if you enjoyed the Brown Bear Experience we reckon you’d love...

THE IBERIAN LYNX EXPERIENCE Track one of the rarest cats in the world (Iberian lynx) through Spain’s national reserves in Andalucia.

THE DANUBE DELTA EXPERIENCE Witness Europe’s last natural paradise and largest wetland – the Danube Delta in the Romania.

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office: 020 7101 4061 Â&#x2014; e-mail: info@untravelledpaths.com web: untravelledpaths.com