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TRIBAL Experience BOOKLET
The TRIBAL Experience Booklet A warm welcome to the Untravelled Paths Tribal Experience Booklet on behalf of all the team! We do hope you’re excited about your upcoming adventure to the eye-opening lands of Ethiopia and we’re sure you’ll find the material in this pack both useful and informative in preparation of your trip as well as during your visit with us. If you’ve not yet touched down on Ethiopian soil, you’ll probably want to refer to the Basics section of the guide as this will brief you on the essentials for visiting, including information on vaccinations and visas, advice on changing money, what sort of weather to expect, what to pack, and insider tips and hints. For those that have already joined us off the beaten track, you’ll find recommendations specific to each destination on your trip, including information about what to see, and where to eat and drink in Addis Ababa as well as the lowdown on all the tribes you’ll be visiting in the Omo Valley. Travel safe and travel fun! The UTP Team www.untravelledpaths.com
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The Basics
CONTENTS
Fast Facts (4-5) Cash & Currency (6-9) Weather & Climate (10-11) Preparation & Packing (12-13) Food & Drink (14-17) Health & Safety (18-21) Customs & Etiquette (22-25)
THE GUIDE Ethiopia (26-27) Addis Ababa (28-39) Omo Valley (40-45) Tribes (46-57)
THE REST Tips & Tricks (58-61) Did You Know? (62-65) With Thanks (66-67) Trip Discounts (68-69)
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FAST FACTS
Fast Facts
Country: Ethiopia Capital: Addis Ababa Time Difference: GMT +3 hours Area: 426,371 sq. miles Population: 99,465,819 Borders: Somalia, Sudan, Eritrea, Kenya, and Djbouti Language: Amharic Ethnicity: Oromo 35%, Amhara 27%, Somali 6%, Tigray 6%, Sidama (4%), Other 22% Religion: Christian (63%), Muslim (34%) Traditional Faiths (3%) Dialling Code: +251 Emergency Number: 911 (no code required) Electricity: 220 volts; plug standards vary most common adapters being Type C (continental two-pin) and Type L (Italian three-pin) Currency: Birr (ETB) Exchange Rate: ÂŁ1 = around 30 Birr
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THE BASICS Cash & Currency
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CASH & CURRENCY Currency> Ethiopia’s currency is the birr (ETB). Notes are printed in denominations of 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. Coins come in 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 cent pieces, the former of which can be useful for small tips or donations. The birr is one of the most stable and strongest currencies in Africa. Currency Exchange > While there are plenty of major bank branches across Ethiopia that can exchange foreign currency into Birr, the easiest and most convenient way to get hold of your holiday cash is to withdraw it from a local bank on arrival in Ethiopia. With dozens cash machines dotted around the city, Addis Ababa is the most sensible place to do this. We also recommend obtaining some US dollars before you travel as this currency is widely accepted and can be helpful at the start of your trip if you can’t access a cash machine immediately. You’ll also need dollars to pay for your entry visas. See below for more details. Cash Machines / ATMs > Cash machines are now widespread across Ethiopia particularly in Addis Ababa so accessing a cash machine to withdraw funds should be your first port of call on arrival (maximum withdrawals tend to be restricted to around 4,000 birr. Outside of Addis Ababa, the best place to withdraw cash in the Omo Valley is in Arba Minch, other villages will not have cash machines or even banks so bear this in mind. When withdrawing money from a cash machine you’ll be offered two exchange rates, one from the local bank and another from your UK bank. Make sure you opt to take you UK bank’s exchange rate as it will be substantially better value. Please also note www.untravelledpaths.com
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that most cash machines charge approximately £1.50 per withdrawal so use them sparingly. Credit/Debit Cards > While cash transactions are commonplace, most major credit and debit cards (Visa & Mastercard) have become more widely acceptable particularly in Addis Ababa and other major towns. While you’re unlikely to have issues using your card to pay for drinks or dinner in places like Addis Ababa using your PIN number, most of the villages in the Omo Valley only accept cash and don’t have cash machines available so do make sure you’ve got enough on you as well as small change for smaller purchases.. It is always advisable to inform your bank that you’re travelling abroad in order to avoid the frustration of having your card blocked. Visas > All visitors to Ethiopia must obtain an entry visa. UK and other European Union passport holders do not need to get hold of one before travel and the relevant one-month visa can be purchased on arrival at Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa. The fee for a single-entry visa upon arrival is $50 and is valid for 30 days. For up to date fees and requirements, we highly recommend you consult the Ethiopian Embassy website. Budget > In order to give you some direction on how much spending money to budget for your trip to Ethiopia, we thought it would be a good idea to offer some guidelines in terms of costs. Costs in Ethiopia are incredibly reasonable and as a general rule, you’ll be able to have a good lunch for around £5 a head and will pay around £10 a head for a nice evening meal. Naturally, the type of establishment you choose to eat in and what you order will dictate the cost of your meals. Be aware that ordering imported drinks can cause your bill to sky-rocket so drinking local wines, beers or spirits is advisable. We reckon 08
around £300 - 400 for meals, drinks and snacks for two people is more than enough. Please note that these are rough estimates and you can always choose to spend more or less depending on your budget and preferences. General Costs > The prices below for general items and sundries should give you a better idea of costs in Ethiopia. Please note these are averages. Bottle of Water: 45p Bottle of Beer: 70p (domestic brand) Cup of Coffee: 60p Can of Soft Drink: 50p Pack of Cigarettes: £1.40 Tipping > While not compulsory, tipping in Ethiopia is part of everyday life and even a very small tip (gursha) goes some way to supplementing low wages. In Addis Ababa restaurants, it is polite to leave a tip of around 5 to 10%. You will need to tip for photographs taken in the Omo Valley so it is extremely useful to have a wad of 1 or 5 birr notes to hand. If you’d like to offer a token of your appreciation and you feel your guide is deserving of it, we believe 100 birr (approx. £3.5) per person per full day of guiding represents a reasonable tip for a job well done. For driver, 50 birr (just over £1.50) per person per day is recommended. Please let us stress that this is by no means expected so you needn’t feel obliged or pressured to do so! Naturally, if you feel inclined to tip more then by all means do. 09
THE BASICS Weather & Climate
WEATHER & CLIMATE Ethiopia’s Climate > The vast majority of the country is blessed with a fairly pleasant year-round temperature but like much of the rest of Africa, Ethiopia also experiences wet and dry seasons unlike our traditional autumn, winter, spring and summer seasons. In the north and in Addis Ababa, the rains typically fall between June and early October, while the wet season in the Omo Valley arrives around June and continues for a few months. The south is significantly warmer than the north where temperatures are more moderate with cold evenings. Omo Valley > The period just after the rainy season (from September) means that temperatures will be mild and dust levels will be at a minimum. That being said, the rains often arrive late in the Omo Valley so there is a chance that some light rainfall may be experienced during these months. January and February are the driest months of the year so rain is unlikely however there will be a fair amount of dust around and temperatures begin to rise. The latter part of the dry season (March and April) sees temperatures soaring well above 40 degrees celsius so be prepared for sunny days and warm weather. Addis Ababa > Daytime temperatures in Addis Ababa are pleasant all year round, averaging between 15 to 18 degrees celsius with cooler temperatures in December and January, and warmer temperatures (around 24) in March and April. Temperatures tend to drop to single figures in the evenings and overnight so packing a warm layer is advisable. From October to March, you’ll be greeted with warm, dry and typically cloudless days however April is less predictable with more chance of rain, which while heavy tends to be short-lived.
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THE BASICS
Preparation & Packing
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PREPARATION & PACKING Packing > Layers of clothing (light, loose and comfortable); warm cardigan or woollen jumper (for evenings and cool temperatures in Addis Ababa); light waterproof jacket (protection against wind and/or rain); sunglasses and hat (sun protection); scarf or snood (to shield nose and mouth against Omo Valley dust); trainers or closed-toe shoes (comfortable and protective against dust); sandals or flip-flops; small day pack (for excursions); camera (with plenty of memory and battery); correct adapter plug (see Fast Facts); flashlight (power is erratic in the Omo Valley); ear plugs and eye mask (for sleeping); spare set of clothes (packed in hand luggage in case suitcases get delayed); medical kit (see Health & Safety); US dollars Documents > You will need to ensure that your passport it is valid for at least six months after the date of return and that it contains a minimum of two blank pages (opposite each other). We recommend packing two passport copies in your main luggage. Depending on where you’re travelling from or to you may also be need a yellow fever certificate. Vaccinations > You are highly advised to get yourself all the necessary vaccinations for your time in Ethiopia (see Health & Safety). Many need to be administered in advance (sometimes 8 weeks prior), so we recommend looking into this as soon as possible. Insurance > As Ethiopia is truly off-the-beaten track, we highly recommend taking out a travel insurance policy that covers emergency assistance in case of injury or illness, personal liability, and lost and stolen possessions. This will need to cover you for the entire period you are away. www.untravelledpaths.com
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THE BASICS Food & Drink
FOOD & DRINK Ethiopian Cuisine > The basic components of almost all traditional Ethiopian dishes are meat and vegetables. This is usually in the form of rich, spicy stews called wat, combined with flavourful sauces and a medley of vegetables served atop the ubiquitous injera, a spongy, sour-tasting flatbread. The most popular wats (stews) are made from chicken (doro), lamb (yebeg) and fish (asa). Eat like the Ethiopians and dig into a shared tasting platter of assorted stews (beyaynetu), using your right hand to tear off strips of injera to scoop up bites of spicy meat and sauces. Traditional Ingredients > To achieve the rich spiced flavours prominent in most Ethiopian dishes, two main powered spices and seasonings are used. The first is berbere, a blend of ground chilli pepper and other spices and the other is mitmita, an orange-red powder hotter than berbere, traditionally made from chilli peppers, cardamon seeds, cloves and salt. The other essential ingredient used in Ethiopian cuisine is niter kibbeh, a clarified butter infused with ginger, garlic and spices. Injera > No matter where you go in Ethiopia, injera will find you. It is the country’s national dish after all. This traditional large pancake-like flatbread is made from fermented tef, a gluten-free grain indigenous to Ethiopia, and forms the cornerstone of every local meal. While its sour, tangy flavour and spongy crepe-like texture is certainly an acquired taste, we can’t argue with its multi-functional qualities - injera serves not only as a good source of protein and vitamins but also removes the need for cutlery and even a plate, a teared piece of flatbread being perfectly equipped to scoop up the medley of spicy
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stews, sauces and cooked vegetables that sit atop a endless circles of injera. Alongside any meal, you’ll typically also be presented with baskets full of more rolls of injera than you could possibly need or want. Beware, despite looking deceptively like napkins, the injera rolls are there for eating not folding out onto your lap! Must-Try Dishes > Doro wat (one of Ethiopia’s most famous dishes, this rich chicken stew is slow cooked with red onions and plenty of berbere); kitfo (a spicy version of steak tartare without the egg, kitfo is raw minced beef mixed with a hotter version of berbere and gobbled up with injera); tibs (Ethiopia’s variety of fajitas, marinated meat - typically beef but sometimes lamb - sautéed with onions and peppers); fir-fir or fit-fit (shredded and fried injera mixed in berbere sauce or leftover wat, and typically served for breakfast) Vegetarians & Fasting Days > The Ethiopian Orthodox Church prescribes regular ‘fast days’ during the year (more than 180 days) including Wednesdays, Fridays and Orthodox Lent during which time observants are required to abstain from consuming meat. This makes Ethiopia incredibly vegetarian- and vegan-friendly with plenty of meat-free dishes available including vegetarian mixed plates (yetsom beyaynetu) or ‘fasting platters' featuring various lentil and split pea wats with kale, spinach, spicy tomato stews and (you guessed it!) injera. If you’re having difficulty explaining your dietary requirements, simply requesting ‘fasting food’ will be universally understood. Coffee > An integral part of Ethiopian culture and society to this day, coffee and coffee ceremonies provide more than just a decent cup of joe. The ritual of the coffee ceremony is an important daily social event when villagers gather to discuss matters of politics and community as well as exchanging news and talking through family issues. A traditional coffee 16
ceremony takes around twenty minutes and involves drinking three rounds of coffee starting with the first and strongest cup (abol), followed by a more diluted second round (tona), and finishing off with the weakest cup (baraka), which is considered to bestow a blessing on the drinker - well worth waiting around for the final sip then! But drinking the coffee is only a small part of the whole process, and its preparation is just as important. To kick off proceedings, raw green coffee beans are roasted in a flat pan over charcoal before the aromas are wafted in front of your noses for maximum sensory appreciation after which frankincense is lit to purify and clear the air. Having been ground in a pestle and mortar the beans are then added to a clay coffee pot (jebena) with water until boiling and ready to pour into small ceramic cups, similar to espresso cups but without the handles. Coffee is served black with plenty of sugar (or even salt in the countryside) and accompanied with popcorn, peanuts or cooked barley to nibble on. So regardless of whether you taste your coffee as part of a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony or in the form of a macchiato at one of Addis Ababa’s famous coffee houses (and we suggest you sample both!), you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised by both the quality and sense of ritual surrounding our favourite caffeinated bean. And we all know which country we need to thank for introducing us to coffee…! Tej > An Ethiopian speciality, tej is a honey wine that features the thick sweetness of mead but with a hint of orange blossom. Typically served in a cylindrical beaker-like glass container called a berele, most Ethiopians will order one berele per drinker but we would advise sharing unless you’re set on giving yourself a stinking headache... Bottom’s up! 17
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THE BASICS Health & Safety
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HEALTH & SAFETY Emergency Contacts > In the unlikely event you experience any problems whilst travelling in Ethiopia with Untravelled Paths please contact our local Ethiopia manager, Shigo Ayele on +251 916 443 333. Alternatively if you cannot get through call the Untravelled Paths office on +44207 101 4061. Vaccinations > You should be up to date will all routine vaccinations including measles-mumps-rubella (MMR), diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis, and polio. You may be advised to get boosters for these, particularly for the latter two. Vaccinations against hepatitis A and typhoid are highly recommended as they are both contracted through contaminated food and water. We would also advise you to immunise yourself against meningitis (meningococcal disease) as the Omo Valley is part of the ‘meningitis belt’ of sub-Saharan Africa, the disease is airborne and most common during the dry season when you will be travelling where you will have close contact with the locals. Depending on where you are travelling from/to, you may also need to be immunised against yellow fever as some countries require proof of vaccination with a yellow fever certificate in order to enter. For more information please visit your doctor or local travel clinic. Malaria > While Addis Ababa is considered a low-risk area for malaria (over 2,000 metres), there is a risk of catching malaria in low altitude areas like the Omo Valley so you will need to take precautions. This means getting a prescription for anti-malarial medicine from your doctor or travel clinic to take before, during and after your trip. Although a variety of prophylaxis are available, we advise opting for malarone www.untravelledpaths.com
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(atovaquone/proguanil) which, despite being more expensive, has less side effects and doesn’t need to be taken for as long. Aside from antimalarial tablets, you will also need to take care prevent mosquito bites by applying repellent containing DEET regularly and wearing longsleeved shirts and trousers. Altitude Sickness > Situated at over 2,500m above sea level, you may well feel the effect of high altitude during your time in Addis Ababa. Symptoms include dizziness, nausea, shortness of breath, fatigue and headaches. Drink plenty of water and take it easy if you start suffering from altitude sickness. Water > We highly recommend sticking to bottled water in order to avoid a tummy upset! Bottled water is widely available and inexpensive so please don’t risk it. It is also good practice to steer clear of fruit, raw vegetables and salads that may have been washed in contaminated water. Although you may not want to be rude, please decline from drinking the ‘beer’ offered at bull jumping ceremonies or gatherings in the Omo Valley - the water used to make the beverage is not safe and you will end up feeling very unwell should you consume any. Medication & First Aid > Falling unwell is not only an unpleasant experience but can also ruin your holiday! To ensure you’re covered from all angles, we suggest considering packing a medical kit with the following items, just in case: • Antibacterial hand gel • Antidiarrheal tablets, eg. Imodium • Oral rehydration salts • Sun cream • Antihistamines • Insect repellent and anti-malarial tablets • Painkillers and anti-inflammatories 20
• Eye drops Diarrhoea > Traveller’s diarrhoea is quite common especially if you’re unused to travelling to off-the-beaten-track destinations, so there’s a risk you might come down with it at some point during your time in Ethiopia. This is nothing to be overly concerned about but the best advice is to drink bottled water, carry antibacterial hand gel, wash your hands before eating, and avoid unwashed or unpeeled raw fruit and vegetables. A good maxim to live by is: ‘peel it, boil it, cook it, or forget it’. Just be sure to pack that Imodium! Sun & Heat > Never underestimate the power of the equatorial sun. Although you won’t always be able to avoid exposure to the sun and heat especially in the Omo Valley, do ensure you apply high factor sun cream, wear sunglasses and a hat, and keep yourself well hydrated.
Crime > Ethiopia is generally a very safe country and violent crime is extremely rare particularly against tourists. Although you are highly unlikely to experience any problems during your stay here, applying basic commonsense rules should stand you in good stead when it comes to theft and petty crime so avoid walking alone at night around unlit areas, keep an eye on your valuables and don’t flaunt expensive jewellery. Be particularly vigilant around Mercato in Addis Ababa. Hassles > At some point during your time in Ethiopia, you will come across the phrase faranji (foreigner) most commonly yelled in your direction by children with a lot of finger pointing. While these persistent cries are not harmful, they can certainly test your patience after a while, so do be prepared. 21
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THE BASICS Customs & Etiquette
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CUSTOMS & ETIQUETTE Patience > While we make every effort to make your trip as comfortable and as smoothly as possible please remember that travelling around remote and less developed regions with little infrastructure can be challenging at times for everyone involved. Roads are not in great condition with the vast majority in the Omo Valley paved with gravel not asphalt. This can make for very long, bumpy and dusty journeys so patience is key. It is also very helpful if you come prepared to ‘go with the flow’ as your itinerary may change from day to day depending on market days or impromptu ceremonies that cannot always be predicted. Rest assured, your guide is a local who knows the region extremely well and will always choose more remote villages, more authentic markets, and less advertised ceremonies where possible. If problems do arise or unforeseen issues present themselves we would really appreciate your patience whilst we do our best to rectify the situation. Culture Shock > Travelling in this area of the world with its extreme levels of poverty and vastly different cultures is bound to be a shock. The Omo Valley in particular will be eye-opening and even distressing at times. The Mursi disfigure their women monstrously, ritualised wife beating and the whipping of women at bull jumping ceremonies is an integral part of Hamar society, Dassanech girls are circumcised from a young age, and fatal inter-tribal fighting is a part of everyday life. These are the harsh realities of living in the Omo Valley. You’re also likely to be hassled a fair bit for photographs, money or simply for being a faranji (white foreigner). The best advice we can give is to be prepared, keep an open mind, and expect the unexpected. This is an experience after all which, like life, weaves the rough with the smooth. Do remember that your guide is on hand at all times to offer any www.untravelledpaths.com
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assistance you may need and to bridge the language barrier to. Make good use of him!
Photographs > It’s best to assume that anyone you take photos of in the Omo Valley will expect to be paid. While the fee varies from one village to the next, 5 birr (around 20p) is the standard going rate for one photograph. The Mursi, however, tend to request up to 10 birr per photo and will count the number of times your camera shutter clicks adjusting the price accordingly. One photo really means one photo. This ‘pay to snap’ mentality is an unfortunate reality of travelling around the Omo Valley and constant shouts for ‘photo!’ ‘birr!’ can create a somewhat unpleasant atmosphere, preventing a natural and friendly interaction with the locals. In order to make your experience as enjoyable as possible we recommend keeping the camera out of sight while you explore the village, making an effort to get to know the tribespeople, only bringing it out for photographs at the end once the locals have become accustomed to you presence. As well as improving the atmosphere, it should also help prevent you from being bombarded with requests for photos (and payment!) or at least the hassling will die down when they notice you don’t have a camera on you. It is a good idea to let your guide negotiate the fees for photos as especially with the Mursi as they are renowned for being more aggressive than other tribes. Our top tip is to hand the camera over to one of the children and get them to take your pictures for you. It lightens the mood, develops a connection between you and the locals and you come out with some real gems! If you have a display screen on your digital camera, do show your photophragy subjects the pictures you’ve just taken. You’d be surprised how many of them won’t have seen their own image or technology of that level. 24
Giving > Witnessing such extreme poverty can be challenging and although you might think that handing out sweets and offering petty cash is helpful, please refrain from doing so as it encourages a begging mentality, particularly amongst children who may then prefer to skip school in favour of earning sweets, pencils or a few coins from foreigners. Unfortunately, locals are becoming more commercially orientated as tourism has grown in the area and foreigners are being quickly viewed solely as a vehicle for money, in most cases through photographs or begging for shoes, money or even the clothes off your very back! When visiting the Hamar village it may be possible to buy a few supplies such as soap or razors to give to the people so do speak to your guide about this. Generally though, if you’d really like to help and make a change, we suggest giving regularly to a registered charity.
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ETHIOPIA When you think of Ethiopia, you’ll no doubt be inundated with mental images of extreme famine and poverty set against an infertile and unforgiving desert landscape ravaged by war. Put the preconceptions aside, however, and you’ll discover a colourful nation that stands apart from every other country on the African continent. The only African country to have resisted colonisation, Ethiopia is also one of the oldest in the world with scientists declaring it to have been the beginning of mankind thanks to the discovery of the 3.5 million year old fossils from ‘Lucy’, the first human being on record. Bordering Kenya, Somalia and Sudan, Ethiopia rests on a plateau at 2,500 metres above sea level and boasts staggering landscapes rich in natural beauty with gushing waterfalls and winding rivers set amongst fertile highlands and the flat-topped peaks of the vast Simien Mountains. This wild paradise is fused together with ancient civilisations and historical treasures like the awe-inspiring rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and the fascinating lost tribes of the Omo Valley to create a remarkable country that astounds and overwhelms visitors in equal measure. Not for the feint-hearted, exploring Ethiopia can be challenging and will almost certainly push you to the edge of your comfort zone. But come prepared with an open heart and mind and you’ll be rewarded with some of the most extraordinary experiences of your lifetime and will come to know the true essence of adventure. Oh and the outstanding coffee, of course. Don’t forget the coffee.
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LEARN Something Interesting
Addis Ababa (48-49)
VISIT Somewhere Busy, Blaring & Bustling
ADDIS ABABA
Mercato (50-51)
- Somewhere Moving & Insightful
Red Terror Museum (54-55)
EAT Somewhere Traditional for Authentic Ethiopian Food, Music & Dancing
Yod Abyssinia (52-53)
DRINK Somewhere Local for Perfectly Brewed Coffee
Tomaca Cafe (56-57)
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ADDIS ABABA
ADDIS ABABA WILL GIVE YOU A SOMEWHAT WIDE-EYED INSIGHT INTO AN AUTHENTIC THIRD WORLD AFRICAN CITY 30
Stepping out of the airport into the overwhelming chaos of Africa’s fourth largest city can be a somewhat overwhelming experience, particularly on first exposure. It is a busy, bustling and blaring working city complete with ranting madmen, naked cripples and shabby beggars flaunting their amputated limbs, that will give you a wide-eyed insight into an authentic third world African city. Poverty ridden and sometimes grotesque, Addis Ababa does possess a certain unconventional charm that has everything to do with how raw and real the place is. Nothing has been put on for show, this really is a no-frills, true to life Ethiopian city, its streets choked with traffic and locals going about their business. While it might not be beautiful in the traditional sense of the word, what it does have is the largest outdoor market in the world, a fascinating museum and some excellent coffee shops where you can sample Ethiopia’s claim to fame. And if you didn’t already know, Addis Ababa is also the world’s third highest capital city at 2,400m. Stay open-minded, curious and willing to embrace the madness and Addis might just surprise you.
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MERCATO Visiting the market is often the perfect way to dive into a location and experience the local culture. And exploring Mercato really is a head-first dive into the chaos and madness of Addis Ababa. Honking cars jostle for space amongst carts stacked sky-high with mattresses and women selling road-side samosas and coffee. Donkeys are bundled with plastic-wrapped packages, porters sag under the weight of every shape, size and colour of wares under the sun and you’ll even see shepherds and their livestock weaving their way through the congested lanes. When it comes to scent, you’re just as likely to pick up the aromas of frankincense and rich coffee as you are the whiff of goat excrement and odorous bodies. The biggest market in Africa and the largest open air market in the world, Mercato appears at first glance to be a disorganised sprawl of vendors spiralling in every direction for miles. But there is some method to the madness and the tin shacks are assembled according to the goods that they sell. Herbs and vegetables are sold in one section, metal products in another, and fabrics elsewhere. What’s certain is that if you can’t find it here, you can’t find it anywhere. The secret is knowing where to look. Luckily, you’ve got a guide for that! Spend your birr on exotic Ethiopian spices or haggle for a clay jabena to serve your coffee at home. Just keep your wits about you, mind out for trucks unloading heavy barrels and make sure your belongings stay safe. 32
Addis Ababa > See > Mercato
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Something BUSY, BLARING & BUSTLING 33
VISIT
RED TERROR MUSEUM Located just off the historic Meskel Square, the Red Terror Martyrs Memorial Museum was established in 2010 as a testament to the thousands of victims killed during the ‘Red Terror’ movement under Ethiopia's Derg regime in the 1970s. The museum might be small but it is incredibly well arranged and informative, its few interconnecting rooms showcasing a collection of powerful exhibits that highlight the true horror of the atrocities committed by the Derg including haunting torture implements as well as human remains excavated from mass graves - victims’ skulls and bones are displayed in cabinets alongside their photograph and any personal belongings they had on them when they were killed. The black and white photographs provide a clear historical narrative depicting the events leading up to Derg leader Mengistu’s consolidation of power after the fall of Emperor Haile Selassie. What makes the experience even more moving is the museum guides, all of whom are survivors of the 'Red Terror’ regime whose first-hand accounts are personal, sad and gut-wrenching in equal measure. As the museum is funded solely on donations, we recommend a generous offering to both the establishment and your guide.
somewhere MOVING & INSIGHTFUL 34
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YOD ABYSSINIA Equal parts food and entertainment, this isn’t your average restaurant. Featuring a plethora of traditional Ethiopian cuisine, live music, and vibrant dancing hailing from every corner and tribe of the country, an evening at Yod Abyssinia provides a fabulous snapshot into Ethiopian culture. Eating in Ethiopia is a social event so order a combination platter (bayeynetu) and a glass of tej (honey wine) to share. With generous portions and the ability to sample a wide variety of Ethiopian dishes including doro wat, tibs, kitfo and firfir, sharing really is caring. Before you tuck in to your spicy feast, you’ll be handed a pitcher of hot water and soap to wash your hands, using the sponge-like injera instead of standard cutlery. While the food is expensive by local standards, it still offers excellent value and of course you’ve got a theatre show thrown in there too! Always buzzing with energy and bursting to the rafters with both locals and tourists most nights, we recommend reserving a table later in the evening to avoid being crammed cheek by jowl amongst the throngs of people. Make sure you stay for the coffee ceremony too and enjoy three rounds of coffee with some popcorn.
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Addis Ababa > Eat > Yod Abyssinia
eat
somewhere TRADITIONAL for authentic Ethiopian food, music & dancing 37
DRINK
TOMACA CAFE You cannot leave Ethiopia without tasting an authentic cup of coffee from the land where the world’s favourite caffeinated bean was discovered. And Tomaca, with their gold standard Ethiopian coffee, is a great place to start. It’s a small, no-frills sort of place with an old-world feel that simply sells coffee brewed using proper Italian machines (the only good thing the Italians brought to the country, Ethiopians joke!) that is fresh, cheap and ruddy excellent! Order one of their famous macchiatos for just 10 ETB a pop (around 30p) and drink it standing like the locals do before tackling the chaotic Mercato with much needed caffeine-injection. There are currently six shops based around town so there’s no excuse not to pop in to one of them for that delicious macchiato. You can even buy a few bags of coffee beans to take home with you or to give as a gift if you’re feeling generous. With 500g bags sold from 80 ETB (£2.50) your wallet need not complain. What next? A traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony.
SOMEWHERE LOCAL FOR PERFECTLY BREWED COFFEE 38
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LEARN
Something Interesting
Omo Valley (50-51)
VISIT Somewhere for Cotton Weaving & Beehive Dwellings
Dorze Tribe (50-51)
OMO VALLEY
See Somewhere for Bull Jumping & Markets
Hamar Tribe (50-51)
- Somewhere with River Dwelling Tribes
Dassanech Tribe (54-55)
- Somewhere with Stone Walled Villages
Konso Tribe (54-55)
- Somewhere with Stick-Fighting & Lip-Stretching Plates
Mursi Tribe (54-55) 40
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take a journey through time to the very edge of your comfort zone where you’ll witness a UNIQUE & CAPTIVATING world
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OMO VALLEY The main draw of Southern Ethiopia is the culturally diverse and fascinating Omo Valley, which is located in Africa’s Great Rift Valley. Here, the landscape ranges from endless arid savannah plains punctuated with acacia bushes to the verdant forests and fertile banks of the Omo River that are filled with birds and monkeys hiding in the dense vegetation. The life-giving Omo River snakes through the Omo and Mago National Parks for nearly 800km all the way down the Kenyan border and shelters some of Africa’s most remote and remarkable ethnic tribes. Each of the two dozen tribes that called the Omo Valley home is as culturally diverse and unique as the next. From the walled stone villages of the Konso and the bodypainting Karo tribe, to the tall beehive-shaped homes of the Dorze and the lip-stretching clay plates of the Mursi people, you’re unlikely to have seen or see anything quite like it. But these tribes that have little or no acknowledgement of the 20th century (let alone the 21st) are starting to be influenced by a wave of modernisation from the outside world. Hydroelectric dams, palm oil plantations, Chinese road construction and new laws aimed to ‘civilise’ these www.untravelledpaths.com
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tribes threaten the very existence of these remarkable people. Even tourism, which offers the most stabilising influence from the western world needs to be practiced in a sensitive, respectful and sustainable manner in order to preserve the ancient traditions and unique cultures from this untouched corner of Africa. Most people who visit Ethiopia won’t venture further south than Addis Ababa so this really is a remarkable opportunity to take a journey through time to the very edge of your comfort zone where you’ll witness a world that is so utterly captivating and unique that the memories you create along the way will stay with you for a lifetime.
From the stone villages of the Konso and the body-painting Karo, to the beehive-shaped homes of the Dorze and the lip-stretching clay plates of the Mursi 44
Omo Valley > Learn > Omo Valley
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VISIT
SOMEWHERE FOR COTTON WEAVING & BEEHIVE DWELLINGS 46
DORZE TRIBE Venture into the hills for a visit to a traditional Dorze village to meet this friendly local tribe. Best known for their cotton weaving and distinctive beehive-shaped dwellings, the Dorze people used to be warriors. Nowadays, they focus on cultivating crops, which are sewn into mountainside terraces and produce tobacco, false banana (enset), spices and highland cereals amongst others. But it’s the towering Dorze huts that take centre stage within each compound. Standing up to two stories tall and built to last up to 80 years, these huts are constructed from wood, woven bamboo and enset, and strangely resemble the face of an elephant. Inside, a fireplace makes up the central feature while separate sections are used for sleeping and livestock. Remarkably, should termites attack the hut, the Dorze can simply relocate the entire structure to another (termite-free) area. Once you’ve had a tour of the dwellings, you’ll watch a Dorze woman prepare the local kocho bread made from enset which you can then taste dipped into their special ground chilli sauce accompanied with some tej (honey wine). You’ll also get the opportunity to witness traditional weaving in action as one of the Dorze men works the loom, transforming spun cotton into brightly coloured scarf-like netalas and shama cloth, the finest in Ethiopia. > Half day; 1,250 birr (approx. £40) per person; private tour www.untravelledpaths.com
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HAMAR TRIBE The archetypal Omo Valley tribe. Inhabiting the eastern territory of the Omo River, Hamar villages are found throughout both Turmi and Dimeka, their people easily the most recognisable of all the Omo Valley tribes, save perhaps for the Mursi. While the spelling of the tribe may very (Hamar, Hammer, or Hamer), the wonderfully eclectic body ornaments and decorations of the people do not. The women are particularly striking with their hair set in thick ochre-coloured plaits, their arms adorned with scores of copper bracelets, beads, cowries and leather worn around their waists and and their skin marked with deep scars caused by intentional cuts that have been packed with charcoal and ash. You can identify a married Hamer woman by whether or not she is wearing a chunky copper band around her neck. More than one band indicates more than one husband. Surely there’s only so many husbands a neck can cope with? Men are more plainly decorated but also partake in body scarring, and paint themselves in white chalk for special occasions such as a bull jumping ceremony. Look out for distinctive hair ornaments though, a clay hair bun typically signifies a recent kill which could be animal or human. The main event in the lives of Hamar men is their bull jumping ceremony, a rite of passage for young men that makes them eligible for marriage. It is a huge celebration that lasts three days, the
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Omo Valley > See > Hamar Tribe
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actual bull jumping taking place right at the end where the young man has to strip naked and run over the backs of between 10 and 30 lined up bulls at least four times! If the man manages to complete the task without falling off, he joins the ranks of the Maza, a group of other men who have completed their bull jumping but are yet to marry. During this ceremony, the women of the tribe provoke the Maza to whip them on their bare backs. Despite being extremely painful, the scars caused by the whipping serve as a symbol of devotion. The whole experience is unique, vibrant and not to be missed! Not only will you see the locals interacting and selling their goods at a local market, you’ll also be invited into a traditional Hamar home, to meet a handful of families and partake in a coffee ceremony within the interior of their unique and remarkably neat huts made from mud, wood and straw. If your visit coincides, you might even be fortunate enough to attend a bull jumping ceremony, which most commonly take place between January and March.
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DASSANECH TRIBE Sometimes known as the Galeb or Reshiat, the Dassanech inhabit the southernmost region of the valley, where the Omo River Delta flows into Kenya’s Lake Turkana. Originally cattle herders, the Dassanech (meaning ‘People from the Delta’) took advantage of the plentiful water and fertile soil offered by their riverside territory by growing crops and catching fish. Cattle are still central to the lives of the Dassanech and are used for meat, milk and clothing but often die from disease or drought. Unlike other tribes, the Dassanech people originate from multiple ethnic groups that are arranged into eight different clans (Elele, Inkabelo, Inkoria, Koro, Naritch, Oro, Randal and the Ri’ele) and practice both male and female circumcision. Of all the tribes in the Omo Valley, they are also the poorest. Get a glimpse of life in the Dassanech tribe with a visit to a local village opposite sweltering Omorate by hopping in a dug-out long boat and paddling across the muddy Omo River. The people here live in shelters comprised of cramped, low huts topped with flimsy sections of aluminium and steel. With temperatures exceeding 40 degrees celsius, copious amounts of clay dust, and a scarcity of shade, living conditions can be challenging at the best of times. With that in mind, do ensure you have a hat and sunglasses, apply plenty of suncream and carry enough water.
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Somewhere WITH RIVER DWELLING TRIBES 52
Omo Valley > See > Dassanech Tribe
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KONSO TRIBE
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Somewhere WITH STONE WALLED VILLAGES 54
With their more relaxed approach to foreigners, organised living environments, and occasional western clothing, visiting a Konso village can seem like a much more modern experience than other Omo tribes. The Konso people live in walled hilltop settlements fortified with basalt stone walls and a labyrinth of twisting fences, gates and alleys that make up a simple yet effective security system. Every family compound contains between three and five circular thatched stone huts with an elevated granary (rosa) to store grains like sorghum, used to make their thick local beer and ground as a flour to produce the staple of their diet, korkorfa, a dumpling-style dough ball. Each village also contains subcommunities centred around a main hut (mora) with an opensided ground floor used as a social area for men and boys who are often expected to sleep the night there. You can determine the age of a Konso village simply by counting how many poles are erected. Every 18 years a new pole (olahita) is raised in the village’s ceremonial square to mark the start of a new generation. Other rituals include Victory Stones placed as tokens of important historical events, and carved wooden grave markers (waga), erected above the resting place of a famous Konso tribe member, the smaller statues representing his wives or conquered foes. With carved facial features, animal bones for teeth, and an oversized member clasped in hand, it does make an interesting if not slightly lewd impression! www.untravelledpaths.com
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MURSI TRIBE Known for stick-fighting and the lip-stretching clay plates worn by their women, the Mursi are undoubtedly the most renowned tribe in Ethiopia. Originally pastoralists, the tribe herd cattle and grow crops along the Omo River, in a territory that has now become the Mago National Park with its dense acacia woodland and pockets of arid savannah. When a Mursi woman reaches the age of 20, it is customary for a small slit to be cut beneath the lower lip into which a clay plate is inserted. Over time, this causing the lip to stretch whereby bigger plates can be worn, some as large as 15cm! Ideally, a woman should be able to loop her lower lip all the way over her head. This rather grisly feature is considered the height of beauty and the larger the plate the woman can wear, the greater her value when she is married. Unlike those iconic photographs would have you believe, Mursi women tend not to wear the heavy, uncomfortable lip plates too often and will most likely be spotted wandering around with their distended lower lips hanging grimly from their mouths. You can understand why they don’t look too cheerful! Mursi men don’t escape tribal traditional entirely unscathed either. In order to be eligible for marriage, a Mursi man must battle an opponent with a two-metre long stick called a donga until one fighter submits defeat and the winner is taken by a group of girls to determine which of them he will marry.
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SOMEWHERE WITH STICK-FIGHTING & LIPSTRETCHING PLATES
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Omo Valley > See > Mursi Tribe
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TIPS & TRICKS • • •
TIPS & TRICKS
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Wear sun cream and stay hydrated Do not eat with your left hand! In Ethiopia food is a respected gift from God and eating with your left hand is a sign of disrespect Don’t get caught out with the time difference. Remember that Ethiopians rationalise that the clock should start when the day does so there is always a six hour difference Learning a few words of the local language can go a long way Although coffee is grown in the Omo Valley, you’ll often find that the local tribes shun the coffee bean in favour of the husks, which they boil in water to create a sort of coffee-flavoured tea that is very drinkable Standard Fanta is typically pineapple, not orange, flavoured here If you smell roasting coffee beans and aromas of frankincense it means there's a coffee ceremony underway Take a scarf to cover your nose and mouth from the dust Don’t be alarmed by blackouts or power cuts, they are very common When greeting an Ethiopian, shake hands then gently knock opposite shoulders together Pass the camera over to the kids at the tribal villages, seeing their excited faces is wonderful and they take some great shots too without you feeling as though you’re intruding Keep an open mind, go with the flow and practice patience Carry tissues on you just in case you need to use the loo as most public facilities won’t have toilet paper Try not to get your camera out straight away when you arrive at a
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tribal village. Instead, wander around camera free, interact with the locals and only take photos at the last minute Give the locals a look of the display screen on your camera – their reaction to seeing themselves and they’re friends on film is priceless Don’t hand out sweets or cash despite the temptation to want to help, it creates a begging mentality that is destructive to both the locals and tourism If you’ve had your fill of injera or traditional Ethiopian food, there is always pasta on offer Use bottled water to brush your teeth if you’re concerned about contaminated water Keep small 1 birr and 5 birr notes handy to pay for photographs taken in the Omo Valley Grab yourself a handful of popcorn to munch on with your coffee As much as it seems rude not to, make sure refrain from drinking any local beverages offered to you at bull jumping ceremonies as the water is not safe and you are likely to get rather ill. Instead, you could just raise the bowl to your lips in a gesture If you’re after vegetarian food and can’t seem to communicate that you don’t want meat, simply ask for ‘fasting food’ – universally understood and vegetarian friendly Check out the ornaments tribes people use to decorate themselves with and you might recognize a few objects including soft drink bottle tops, chains from watches and lollipop sticks It may look very much like a serviette but don’t lay that roll of injera over your lap at dinner! Make sure you drink the last round of coffee at a traditional ceremony, it is said to be good luck Remember to ‘peel it, boil it, cook it, or forget it’ for safe food
The Rest > Tips & Tricks
LOOK OUT FOR FAMILIAR TRIBAL ORNAMENTS LIKE BOTTLE TOPS & WATCHES
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DID YOU KNOW?
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The Ethiopian calendar has 13 months so Ethiopia is approximately 8 years behind us! The 13th month is five days long, or six in a leap year Minus the Arabs, Ethiopians are the only people in Africa with their own indigenous written alphabet Ethiopians measure time from when the sun rises and count time on the opposite side of the clock. When the sun rises at 6 o’clock it is said to be 12 o’clock – the start of the day in Ethiopia. Confused? Don’t worry, you get used to it after a few days! More than 70% of Africa’s mountains are found in Ethiopia. Hence its nickname as ‘the roof of Africa’ There are over 80 different languages spoken in Ethiopia. The most widely spoken of these are Oromo and Amharic Some of the traditional societies in Ethiopia view having twins as mingi, or a sign of bad luck. They believe that twins may be cursed, or invite evil spirits While much of the Rastafarian movement did evolve in Jamaica, the spiritual homeland of it is in actual fact Ethiopia. In Amharic, ‘ras’ is a title similar to chief, and ‘tafari’ the first name of Emperor Haile Selassie I – essentially the movement posits Selassie as an incarnation of God. Need further evidence? Just check out the colours on the Ethiopian flag. Familiar no? The Great Rift Valley that cuts through Ethiopia is the only physical feature of Africa that it visible from space Ethiopia is the only African country never to have been colonised although the Italians did give it a shot in 1935 but only managed to
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occupy it for six years. At least they left their espresso machines behind! Ethiopians celebrated their new year on September 11 The name “Ethiopia” comes from the Greek words aitho and ops, which together mean “burnt face.” This was how the ancient Greeks referred to the dark-skinned people of eastern Africa Ethiopian Abebe Bikila was the first African to win gold in the Olympic Games. He finished the marathon in first place after running the whole race barefoot Lucy, the oldest human fossil skeleton was discovered in Ethiopia in 1974 named after the Beatles’ song ‘Lucy in the Sky with Diamond’ which was playing on the radio when the 3 million year old fossil was found Traditionally, most Ethiopian children take their father’s first name as their last name Ethiopia is home to the Black Jews, known as the Falashas or Beta Israel (House of Israel). Various legends claim they are a lost tribe of Israel or descendants of King Solomon The legendary Ark of the Covenant, the relic said to hold the 10 Commandments, is claimed to be housed in a church in Ethiopia. Only one man, the guardian, is actually allowed to see the ark, so whether or not it is actually there remains a mystery! Coffee was first discovered by an Ethiopian goat herder named Kaldi in the Kaffa region (sounds similar to ‘coffee’ doesn’t it?) when he noticed his goats ‘dancing’ after nibbling on the berries of the coffee plant. The coffee industry took of from there
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The Rest > Did You Know?
Coffee was first discovered by an Ethiopian goat herder named Kaldi in the Kaffa region when he noticed his goats ‘dancing’ after nibbling on the berries of the coffee plant 65
WITH THANKS
WITH THANKS
We hope this information pack has been useful to you and we’d love to know what you think. So if you’ve noticed any mistakes, or inconsistencies then please do get in touch and let us know. We’re always looking for feedback too so if you think something’s been misleading or you happen to stumble upon a gem of an Ethiopian restaurant, a great place to watch a coffee ceremony or an interesting fact about an Omo Valley tribe that you think deserves a mention then please do fill us in. We’re sure there are plenty of hidden delights we have yet to discover! Oh, and we also accept positive comments. Enjoy your trip and keep in touch! Team UTP
Untravelled Paths Ltd 24 Ferncroft Avenue London NW3 7PH info@untravelledpaths.com 020 7101 4061 www.untravelledpaths.com /UntravelledPathsLtd
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@untravpaths
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TRIP DISCOUNTS
TRIP DISCOUNTS
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Just to say thank you for travelling with us, we’re happy to offer you a 10% discount on any other Untravelled Paths experience within 18 months of your trip. Simply let us know during the booking process but please note that this discount is not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Take a look online for some inspiration on the sorts of experience we have in our collection and if you enjoyed the Tribal Experience we reckon you’d love...
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office: 020 7101 4061 — e-mail: info@untravelledpaths.com web: untravelledpaths.com