The Dolce Vita Experience eBooklet by marionkatrina

The DOLCE VITA EXPERIENCE Booklet

THE DOLCE VITA EXPERIENCE BOOKLET

A warm welcome to the Untravelled Paths Dolce Vita Experience Booklet on behalf of all the team! We do hope you’re excited about your upcoming adventure to the wonderful heel of Italy and we’re sure you’ll find the material in this pack both useful and informative in preparation of your trip as well as during your visit with us. If you’ve not yet touched down on Italian soil, you’ll want to refer to the Basics section of the guide as this will brief you on the essentials for visiting, including what sort of weather to expect, which regional specialities to look out for and insider tips and hints. Please note that as Italy is more ‘travelled’ than our other destinations, most of the information will be related specifically to the Puglia region. We’ve made food and drink the focus too with a dedicated recipes section and more...! For those that have already joined us, you’ll find recommendations specific to each destination on your trip, including information about what to see and where to eat and drink. We’ve also included a section on useful Italian words and phrases to bridge that language barrier. Travel safe and travel fun! The UTP Team

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THE BASICS

CONTENTS

Fast Facts (4-5) Cash & Currency (6-9) Weather & Climate (10-11) Health & Safety (12-15) Food & Cuisine (16-19) Drinks & Alcohol (20-23)

THE GUIDE Puglia (24-25) Bari (26-43) Matera (46-59) Itria Valley (60-77)

THE REST Language (78-85) Tips & Tricks (86-89) Recipes (90-97) With Thanks (98-99) Trip Discounts (100-101)

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FAST FACTS

Region: Puglia (Apulia) Country: Italy Capital: Bari Area: 7,474 sq. miles Population: 4,045,949 Language: Italian Religion: Roman Catholic Time Difference: GMT +1 hour Electricity: 220 volts; (a standard continental adapter) Dialling Code: +39 Emergency Number: 112 (no code required) Currency Euro (EUR) Exchange Rate: £1 = around 1.2 €

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THE BASICS Cash & Currency

CASH & CURRENCY Currency > The currency in Italy is the euro, or the ‘eh-uro’ as the Italians say. If you haven’t already got some spare euros then there are a a few options to get hold of your holiday cash. 1. Get it locally: The easiest option is to head to a cash machine once you’ve touched down in Italy to withdraw funds. There are ATMs in most of the towns you’re staying in so access shouldn’t be a problem just take note of the advice below when it comes to withdrawing and bear in mind that you typically won’t be able to take out more than €250 a day. Alternatively you can exchange currency (cambio) at a bank. If you’d like to change money at a bank then do make sure you go in the mornings as local banks are often closed during the afternoon. 2. Get it at home: If you’re set on getting your money organised before you travel, head to an exchange bureau in the UK where the euro is readily available. 3. Get it online: You can also purchase currency online and collect it from your local post office or even have it delivered straight to your door. Ordering currency online with the Post Office is commission free and available for next day delivery. Obviously the more you buy the better rate you’ll receive. ATMs (Bancomat) > Most towns and villages in Italy will have at least one cash machine, or ‘bancomat’ as they are called here. When withdrawing money you’ll be offered two exchange rates, one from the local bank and another from your UK bank. Make sure you opt to take you UK bank’s exchange rate as it will be substantially better value. Please also note that most cash machines charge approximately £1.50 per www.untravelledpaths.com

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withdrawal so use them sparingly. If you’re keen to avoid being charged, a new bank called Metro Bank offers accounts and cards that are free to use abroad both for cash withdrawals at ATMs and when paying on card machines. Credit/Debit Cards > Most major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard) are accepted throughout Puglia however it can be a good idea to have cash on you just in case. As a general rule though you should have no problem using your card to pay for drinks or dinner using your PIN number. It is always advisable to inform your bank that you’re travelling abroad in order to avoid the frustration of having your card blocked. Budget > In order to give you some direction on how much spending money to budget for your trip to Puglia, we thought it would be a good idea to offer some guidelines in terms of costs. Prices in Puglia are much lower than the rest of Italy’s other major tourist destinations like Rome and Venice so costs should be very affordable. As a general rule, you’ll be able to have a good lunch for around £10 a head and will pay around £15 a head for a nice evening meal. Naturally, the type of establishment you choose to eat in and what you order will dictate the cost of your meals. Be aware that ordering imported drinks can cause your bill to sky-rocket so drinking local wines, beers or spirits is advisable (besides, sampling the local products is what you’re here for!). We reckon around £200 for meals, drinks and snacks for two people is plenty. Please note that these are rough estimates and you can always choose to spend more or less depending on your budget and preferences. General Costs > The prices below for general items and sundries should give you a better idea of costs in Puglia. Please note these are averages. Bottle of Water: 70p 08

Pint of Beer: £1.50 - £2.50 Cup of Coffee: 60p Pack of Cigarettes: from £3 Pizza: around £3 Glass of Wine: from £2 Tipping > Tipping in Puglia is by no means compulsory, however it is customary in restaurants. Bear in mind that most restaurants will also include a cover charge (coperto) of around €1.50–3 a head. Some also include service charge (servizio) on top of that, generally amounting to ten percent. If it isn’t included do leave an appropriate tip relative to the standard of service you’ve received. In cafes, do as the Italians do and leave some small change on the bar when you’ve ordered and paid for your coffee however if you decide to sit down at a table then the same restaurant tipping guidelines apply. It is also commonplace to round up fares in a taxi to the nearest euro. When it comes to tipping your guide and driver(s), and you’d like to offer a token of your appreciation, we believe €5 per person represents a good tip for a job well done. Please let us stress that this is by no means expected so you needn’t feel obliged or pressured to do so!

THE BASICS Weather & Climate

WEATHER & CLIMATE Puglia's Climate > With a Mediterranean climate, Southern Italy is blessed with mild winters, crisp springtime months, glowing autumns and sundrenched summers making it a year-round destination. Temperatures in the summer months can be pretty scorching, drawing many locals to the coastline in an attempt to escape the blistering heat. Spring and autumn in Puglia boast clear blue skies, warm sunshine and very pleasant temperatures, which start as early as the beginning of April and extend all the way through to mid October. Spring Weather (April & May) > Puglia enjoys wonderful weather in both April and May in the run-up to summer so expect clear blue skies in Bari, warm sunshine in the Itria Valley and balmy evenings in Matera. Summer Weather (June, July & August) > Summer is high season in Puglia not so much for tourists but for the locals who flock to the coast to escape the intense inland heat. The weather during these summer months is Mediterranean hot with bags of sunshine so sun cream is a must! Autumn Weather (September & October) > The perfect time to visit Puglia. The hoards of locals have all but dispersed by September and October, leaving you to enjoy Southern Italy in relative peace. The weather in Puglia is still warm and wonderful making it perfect for those who arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t too keen on baking hot summers. This is our preferred time to experience Puglia apart from the spring.

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THE BASICS Health & Safety

HEALTH & SAFETY Emergency Contacts > In the unlikely event you experience any problems whilst travelling in Puglia please do not hesitate to contact Marius Macoveiu on +40737 093 810 or the Untravelled Paths office on +44207 101 4061. Crime > Puglia is not a dangerous region when it comes to crime and personal safety despite all the mafia-related stereotypes. As violent crime against tourists is pretty much non-existent aside from the odd pickpocket, you are highly unlikely to experience any problems during your stay here. That said, as with most other European countries, pickpockets and opportunist thieves do exist and tend to operate in more densely populated towns or in areas attracting tourist crowds. If you find yourself amongst the thick of it in bustling streets or markets do keep an eye out for scippatori gangs (â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;snatchersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;) who whizz by on scooters and grab bags or visible jewellery from unwitting tourists. Applying basic common-sense rules should stand you in good stead when it comes to theft and petty crime so avoid flashing any valuable items, make use of crossbody strapped bags and keep a firm hold on your camera and wallet. Police > Unlike in the UK, Italy has a number of different law-enforcing divisions. The omnipresent Carabinieri with their military-style uniforms and white shoulder-belts deal with general crime, public order and drug control, while the Vigili Urbani are mainly concerned with directing traffic and issuing parking fines; the Polizia Stradale patrol the motorways. The Polizia Statale, the other general crime-fighting force, enjoy a fierce rivalry with the Carabinieri! www.untravelledpaths.com

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Smoking > Smoking in public places is banned in Puglia. Should you choose to smoke while you’re in the country, we kindly ask you to respect the environment by disposing of cigarette butts in bins rather than throwing them just anywhere even if you see locals doing just that! The Environment > Please be respectful of the environment when you are visiting Puglia. Pick up any rubbish you may have accumulated and keep the noise to a minimum. Medication & First Aid > Should you have any minor medical problems while you’re on your trip, head to a pharmacy or farmacia. The pharmacists here are well qualified to offer advice on any minor ailments from which you may be suffering and can even write prescriptions. As with the rest of Western Europe you’re unlikely to be troubled with any major illnesses, the most likely medical culprits being heat stroke and dehydration from too much sun exposure, or a tummy upset. However, to ensure you’re covered from all angles, we suggest considering packing a small medical kit with the following items, just in case: • Antibacterial hand gel or wipes • Antidiarrheal tablets, eg. Imodium • High factor sun cream • Antihistamines • Insect repellent • Painkillers and anti-inflammatories • Tissues • Contact lenses and/or glasses • Personal mediation - if you take any medication, please also ensure you take a copy of your prescription 14

Water > The water is safe to drink throughout Puglia and you're likely to come across an abundance of public fountains in town squares. Just avoid drinking water where signs read ‘aqua non portibile’ as the water is unsafe to drink. Despite all this, we always recommend sticking to bottled water, which is widely available just in case - an upset tummy is not ideal on such a wonderful foodie experience! Vegetarians > With such a wonderful variety of fresh, seasonal fruit and vegetables, vegetarians won’t find it difficult to find something delicious on the menu in Puglia. If you’re unsure whether a dish contains meat or fish in it simply ask 'c’è carne dentro?’ or request that your meal is served 'senza carne e pesce’.

THE BASICS Food & Cuisine

FOOD & CUSINE Puglian Cuisine > The centre of delicious and authentic Italian food, Puglia is the ultimate destination for foodies. The region produces around 80% of Europe’s pasta and extra virgin olive oil and its deeply-rooted cucina povera tradition means its cuisine tends to be simple and delicious, relying on fresh, local produce that is bursting with flavour. The act of eating itself is also a serious local tradition in Puglia. Walking along the cobblestoned streets, you’ll notice that families usually eat lunch and dinner with their windows and doors open, filling the air with fragrance—and sometimes inviting curious passers-by in for a bite. The wonderful thing about eating your way through Puglia is that despite the common threads of orecchiette pasta, fava beans and burrata cheese, each town has its own speciality such as capocollo ham in Martina Franca, meaty bombette in Cisternino and Locorotondo’s very own DOC white wine. With all that to look forward to, expect to come home with rosy cheeks, bottles of wine and olive oil and a few extra pounds around the waist! Pasta > Puglia produces around 80% of Europe’s pasta and is handmade here with durum wheat semolina and no eggs. The most common type is orecchiette (little ears in Italian) which is aptly named for its unique shape. It’s on every menu and family dining table throughout Puglia, but especially in Bari where you’ll find (and participate with) old ladies making and selling it all day long. Its most famous use is in orecchiette con cima di rape, a traditional pasta dish from Puglia (see the recipes section to find out how). Another typical Puglian pasta is cavotelli and sagne ‘ncannulate, shaped in long, twisted strands. www.untravelledpaths.com

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Bread > Bread is served with every meal in Puglia and used to mop up olive oil or any delicious leftover sauces on your plate. Pane di Altamura is a well-known artisan bread from Altamura made with local durum wheat, yeast, water and salt. It’s got a crispy, dry crust, which is achieved by leaving the oven open for the last minutes of baking. Loaves are huge – weighing between 2 – 10 pounds and known to last over two weeks! There’s also taralli, baked bread stick rings that are first boiled and then baked, resulting in a satisfying cracker that is both light and slightly crunchy. They can be bite-sized or larger and are typically served with a drink or in your bread basket. The dough is infused with ingredients like cheese, black pepper, fennel, sun dried tomato or onion. They are truly addictive and it’s fun tasting all the different flavours to find your favorite combination. Just make sure you leave room in your suitcase for a few packets! Of course there’s plenty of focaccia around too but Puglia’s version is loaded with flavorful sun-ripened tomatoes and drizzled with lots of olive oil. Seek it out, it’s a must especially alongside a cool Italian beer. Oh, and do make sure try panzerotti while you’re here too. Like a smaller version of a calzone, these half-moon pastry pockets are filled with savory ingredients and baked to perfection. The most common filling is tomato and mozzarella cheese. Cheese > Italy may produce more than 300 different cheeses, but there are two that you cannot leave Puglia without trying. The first is burrata, which may well be the most mouthwatering cheese of all time. This pouchlike cheese is typically made from cow’s milk, and looks like mozzarella on the outside, though when sliced open reveals an oozing mix of curds and cream, perfect for sopping up with a slice of Altamura bread. Eat it fresh, at room temperature for the best taste. The other is ricotta forte, a spreadable, fermented ricotta that’s especially pungent and has a distinct, strong flavor. Orecchiette con la ricotta forte is popular dish throughout Puglia and a well-known specialty in 18

Lecce. However, you can pick up both burrata and ricotta forte at any caseificio, or dairy shop, within the region. Olive Oil > With 50 million olive trees, Puglia boasts not only the most in Italy, but some of the oldest. So it stands to reason that the region also produces the most olive oil as well as supplying Europe with around 80% of its stock. The oil is used as a base in almost all dishes and offers a fruity, buttery flavor, milder than some of its counterparts. Olive varieties include, Corantina, Frantoio, Oliarola Barese and Leccino. Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner > Breakfast in Italy (prima colazione) is a simple affair consisting of a coffee and a brioche or cornetto - a fresh filled croissant or pastry. Most locals take their breakfast at the bar (al banco) instead of sitting down, which costs extra. Lunch (pranzo) and dinner (cena) in Puglia typically follow the same pattern. First there’s the antipasto (starter) featuring a number of delicious taster-sized dishes including seasonal vegetables, local meats and cheeses, olives, and fried courgette flowers. Next there’s the primo (first course), usually a pasta followed by the secondo (second course), which tends to be meat or fish based and served with a contorno (side dish) of green salad, tasty vegetables or potatoes in some shape or form. After all that there’s the dolce (dessert) and of course an espresso to top the meal off nicely.

THE BASICS Drinks & Alcohol

DRINKS & ALCOHOL Drinking & Bar Culture > While Italians enjoy their alcohol and will always accompany a meal with un mezzo (half-litre carafe of house wine) or a lovely bottle of wine, drinking for the sake of drinking simply isn’t the done thing here. For Italians, alcohol is something to be savoured preferably alongside some delicious nibbles for aperitivo or at lunch with all the family. Children are encouraged to have a glass of wine with their meals so public drunkenness is rare unlike in the UK. Spending the evenings drinking the night away in bars is also uncommon and you’ll often find Italians standing at the counter for a quick coffee or beer instead. If you’d prefer to sit for a drink do bear in mind that you’ll pay double and even more so if you choose to sit at a table outside (fuori) - there should be a price list indicating costs for a table (tavola) or outside seating (terrazzo). In most cases, you’ll need to pay for your drinks first at the cash desk (la cassia) where you’ll receive a receipt (scontrino) that you’ll need to show to the barman when you collect your beverage. Coffee > In a country obsessed with coffee and boasting a span of variations, it can be tricky to know exactly what to order. Typically, if you ask for a coffee (un caffe) you’ll be given a small, black espresso which most Italians drink in around four seconds! Just make sure you follow a few simple rules… only drink milky coffee in the mornings, expect it to be served lukewarm not piping hot so you can drink it straight away, and do add lots of sugar! Here is a guideline to the main varieties of coffee in Italy: Espresso (known simply as caffe in Italy, served small and black with strong taste and a rich bronze froth known as a crema on top); Doppio (double espresso); Lungo or Caffe Americano (espresso www.untravelledpaths.com

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made with more water); Macchiato (espresso that is "marked" with a dollop of steamed milk on top); Corretto (espresso that is "corrected" with grappa, cognac or sambuca); Cappuccino (espresso with foamed milk and containing equal parts espresso, steamed milk and foamed milk); Caffe Latte (espresso made with more milk than a cappuccino but only a small amount of foam, usually a breakfast drink served in a tall glass); Latte Macchiato (steamed milk that is "marked" with a shot of espresso coffee and served in a glass). Wine > In a country famous for its wines, Puglia has had little to no recognition for its wine despite having produced bottles of the stuff since the Greek times. That, however, is slowly changing and Puglia’s wines are becoming more and more renowned. Boasting full-bodied and well-structured reds (rosso) like Salice Salentino, Primitivo, and Nero di Troia, the vineyards also produce a range of refreshing white (bianco) and rosé (rosato) wines ideal for summer lunches. One not to miss while you’re in the region is the primitivo, a heady and intense red wine that’s said to have its beginnings in the days the Phoenicians inhabited Puglia, thousands of years ago. Also look out for Manduria produced by the Cosimo Taurino vineyard and Patriglione, one of Puglia's most highly regarded and expensive reds. Beer > In Italian bars, beer (birra) usually comes in one-third or two-third litre bottles, or on tap (alla spina), measure for measure more expensive than the bottled variety. A small beer is a piccola (20cl or 25cl), a larger one (usually 40cl) a media. The cheapest and most common brands are the Italian Moretti, Peroni and Dreher, all of which are very drinkable; if this is what you want, either state the brand name or ask for birra nazionale or birra chiara – otherwise you could end up with a more expensive imported beer. You may also come across darker beers (birra nera or birra rossa), which have a sweeter, maltier taste and in appearance resemble stout or bitter. 22

Soft drinks > There are various soft drinks (analcolichi) to choose from. Slightly fizzy, bitter drinks like San Bittèr or Crodino are common, especially at aperitivo time. A spremuta is a fresh fruit juice, squeezed at the bar, usually orange, but sometimes lemon or grapefruit. There are also crushed-ice granitas offered in several flavours, available with or without whipped cream (panna) on top. Otherwise you’ll find the usual range of fizzy drinks and concentrated juices. Water > While tap water (acqua del rubinetto) is perfectly safe to drink in Puglia it isn’t commonly served in restaurants and as always, we recommend sticking to bottled water just in case. Mineral water (acqua minerale) is everywhere and comes either still (naturale) or fizzy (frizzante) so do make sure you stipulate which variety you’d like when ordering alongside your meals. Spirits > Alongside their wines, coffees and beers, Italians also enjoy a good liquor at the end of their meal. There’s Amaro, a bitter after-dinner digestivo and Amaretto, which is much sweeter with a strong taste of almond. Sambuca is a sticky-sweet aniseed concoction while Limoncello is a deliciously refreshing lemon-based liqueur best drunk in a frozen vase-shaped glass. Strega is another drink you’ll see behind every bar, yellow, herb-and-saffron-based stuff in tall, elongated bottles: about as sweet as it looks but not unpleasant. A shot of clear grappa is also a common accompaniment to a coffee and can range from a warming palate-cleanser to throat-burning firewater.

PUGLIA

Blessed with golden sunshine, blue skies, ancient olive groves and white washed old towns that cling to hillside precipices, the heel of Southern Italy is one of the country’s best kept secrets. Puglia’s location along both the Adriatic and Ionian seas boasts exquisite stretches of coastline where fine sand disappears into emerald green and powder blue waters and showcases the remnants of its eclectic invaders from the Normans, Greeks and Turks through the mishmash of architecture scattered across the region. Full to the brim of charm and character, it’s not the beautiful baroque churches, sweet stone trulli, sundrenched landscapes nor the laid-back Italian lifestyle that make Puglia such an attractive destination. It’s all about the food. Food, glorious food. Fresh fish, ripe figs, citrusy olive oils, perfect pasta and full-bodied wines. The food is so good here in Puglia that it produces 80% of Europe’s olive oil and pasta. Despite being representative of Italy’s culinary capital, Puglia seems to have slipped under the radar for everyone other than the native Italians. We suppose that means more for the rest of us…!

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BARI

LEARN > Bari (28-29)

SEE > Old Town (30-31) Basilica di San Nicola (32-33)

DO >

Pasta Making (34-35)

EAT >

Biancofiore (36-37) Ciboâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (38-39)

DRINK/CHILL > Martinucci (40-41) La Ciclatera (42-43)

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BARI >

Its fascinating weave of streets is abuzz with the sights, sounds and smells of local life and provides an intimate portrait of traditional Italy. 28

The regional capital of Puglia, Bari used to be one of the most important trading ports along the Adriatic and still represents the busiest passenger port in the region with well-established ferry links across the sea to the Balkans. Its fascinating weave of streets is abuzz with the sights, sounds and smells of local life and provides an intimate portrait of traditional Italy. The old town of Bari boasts an eclectic mix of age-old architecture as well as a mouthwatering selection of traditional culinary delicacies. The quaint back streets and impressive church-adorned piazzas provide the perfect opportunity to soak up the culture, pausing for an Italian coffee and pastry in a string of wonderful cafĂŠs and bars within easy reach of all the townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s major architectural attractions. Oh and if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever eaten little ear-shaped pasta before, chances are it will have been made right here in Bari, which is the home of orecchiette pasta.

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OLD TOWN > We love Bari’s historic old town, known simply as Bari Vecchia by the locals. Unlike other medieval towns that can be overly polished, Bari Vecchia feels a lot more ‘lived in’ and offers an authentic glimpse into everyday life in Southern Italy. The neighborhood’s warren of narrow streets and cobblestoned piazzas is abuzz with local life and architectural beauties making it an absolute pleasure to wander around. For us, it’s all about the atmosphere, which is undeniably charming. Old men chat outside whitewashed doors, the smell of traditional cooking wafts from the kitchen windows, clean sheets and clothes hang on make-shift washing lines and flap in the sea breeze. In the evenings, the piazzas brim full of locals who natter away sharing the day’s gossip with one another, watching their children playing around the fountains and young couples walking hand in hand through the streets stopping for an afterdinner gelato or a drink at one of Bari’s trendy bars.

SEE

Somewhere AUTHENTICALLY ITALIAN

Bari > See > Old Town

BASILICA SAN

SEE

NICOLA >

Somewhere CULTURAL & GRAND

A visit to Bari wouldn’t be complete without a peek inside the Basilica di San Nicola. Dating back to the 12th century, the basilica isn’t just the city’s most important building, it also represents one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture in Puglia with its carved doorways, opulent 17th century gold ceiling and magnificent 13th century stone canopy over the altar. The basilica is visited by Catholic and Orthodox Christian pilgrims all over the world who come to pay homage to the mortal remains of Saint Nicholas (Father Christmas to most of us!), which are buried in a shrine within the basilica's beautiful vaulted crypt. The bones of Saint Nicholas were originally stolen from Myra, modern-day Turkey, by a band of Barase fishermen back in 1087 and are said to exude a holy oil containing special powers. You can even buy bottles of the liquid in the shop! You’ll get the chance to visit the basilica on your Bari Tour & Pasta Making Experience. www.untravelledpaths.com

PASTA MAKING >

Something HANDS-ON WITH ITALIAN MAMMAS

Tucked away behind the Basilica di San Nicola in the heart of Bari Vecchia down two tiny alleyways is an enchanting pocket of living culinary tradition. Nicknamed 'Orecchiette Lane’, this is the home of the traditional ear-shaped pasta of the same name that Bari is famous for. The streets are lined with semolina-dusted tables where women of all ages transform fresh dough into orecchiette at lightning-fast speeds, leaving them to dry on wooden-framed screens. Tempting aromas waft through the open kitchen doors, the scent of fresh tomato sauce and garlic cooking in extra virgin olive oil filling the air. Of course, making orecchiette is easier said than done but don’t worry, you’ll have plenty of time to practice the craft under the expert eye of one of the Italian mammas who’ll have no problems ticking you off for poor technique! You’ll roll out the dough into long strings, cut them into bite-sized cube then curl each piece into a tiny cup with a knife. Each little ear has to be just right, small and curled with rough ridges to soak up all that delicious sauce. At the end of it all you’ll be rewarded with a big bowl of pasta to tuck into… just make sure you save some room in your belly and in your suitcase as you’ll want to bring a couple of bags home! You’ll take part in the pasta making experience as part of your Bari Tour (which can be arranged by bike or on foot depending on your preference).

Bari > Do > Pasta Making

BIANCOFIORE >

Somewhere CHIC FOR FISH & SEAFOOD

EAT

Chic and elegant, this restaurant offers a creative taste of Bari in a fine dining environment. The décor and interior is Italian class as its best with a naval-inspired palette of sharp white tablecloths and beautiful blue tiles over the open kitchen. The dishes are perfectly presented with a special focus on fish and seafood – which is ideal as Bari is based by the sea! We recommend opting for the excellent seafood tasting menu, which offers delicious regional specialties. Do ensure you allow plenty of time to enjoy your dinner as there are lovely long pauses between courses, ideal for supping some delicious white wine, of which they have an extensive array. Oh and make sure you save some space for one of their delicious desserts - you won’t regret it! Prices are on the expensive side but the quality of the experience more than justifies the cost! Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 19:00 – 23:30 Address: Corso Vittorio Emanuele II – 13 Contact Number: +39 080 523 5446 www.untravelledpaths.com

CIBO’ > If you’re keen to try panzerotti (and keen you should be!) then this cheerful little eatery is the place to do it. Like a mini version of a calzone, these half-moon pastry pockets are a Bari specialty and come stuffed with a variety of savoury ingredients from mozzarella and tomato to ricotta, onion and anchovies. Perfect for a tasty snack or lunch on-the-go, take your pick from Cibo’s vast array of fillings and order a cold bottle of Peroni to go with it for a fuss-free dinner. Excellent pizza slices and delicious arancini (fried risotto balls with cheese) are also available. The setting is fun and informal with friendly staff and more locals than you can shake a stick at! For the perfect end to a relaxed evening, head across the piazza to Martinucci for an indulgent after-dinner gelato. Italian street food at its finest. Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday 6.30am - 11.30pm Address: Piazza Mercantile 29 Contact Number: +39 339 795 6736

Somewhere FOR TASTY ITALIAN STREET FOOD

EAT

Bari > Eat > Cibo’

MARTINUCCI >

Somewhere FOR ITALIAN CAKES & COFFEE

CHILL

This wonderful pasticceria is your one-stop-shop for all things sweet. The interior is cool and snazzy with lime green walls, smart silver teapots hanging from the ceiling and an open kitchen where you can watch the bakers hard at work. More importantly, there are tempting pastries straight from the ovens and mountains of fresh ice cream in every flavour you could possibly wish for (the pistachio is especially good). The best part? They'll pour melted chocolate into the bottom of your ice cream cone! Whatever you do donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t leave without trying a pasticiotto. These traditional custard pies are typical of Puglia and are mouthwateringly tasty with a variety of fillings including sour cherry, lemon and nutella. Get there early and devour while theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re still warm with a cup of proper Italian coffee. Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday from 8am Address: Piazza Mercantile 80 Contact Number: +39 080 521 1142

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LA CICLATERA > Located in the heart of the old town away from the bustle of the main piazzas, this tiny little bar is the perfect spot for a quick aperitivo. There are a handful of tables and chairs outside for pleasant evenings and the interior is warm and welcoming with exposed brick ceilings and a mishmash of funky furniture. The staff is a friendly sort and will happily recommend one of their wacky and wonderful cocktails or an espresso with a twist. Make sure you get some nibbles to accompany your predinner drinks (it wouldn’t be ‘un aperitivo’ without them) and definitely request a bowl of taralli to whet your appetite - these traditional biscuits are typical of the region and are ridiculously moreish. Although this little gem can be a bit tricky to find amidst the maze of old town alleyways but perseverance will pay off! Trust us.

DRINK

Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday 7pm – 2am Address: Via Corte Colagualano 36 Contact Number: +39 320 431 6318

Somewhere QUIRKY FOR UN APERITIVO

Bari > Drink > Ciclatera

MATERA

LEARN > Matera (46-47)

SEE >

The Sassi (48-49)

DO > Bakery Tour (50-51) Italian Cooking (52-53) Sassi Tour (54-55)

EAT >

Baccanti (56-57) La Latteria (56-57)

DRINK/CHILL > I Vizi deli Angeli (58-59) Vicolo Cieco (58-59)

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Beneath the rugged mountain landscape and hustle and bustle of everyday life lies a sprawling labyrinth of underground caves and churches,

MATERA > Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re unlikely to ever have laid eyes on a town as extraordinary as Matera. Inhabited since the Neolithic age, it is not only one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most unusual it is also one of the oldest. Set at the hilt of the Murgia plateau overlooking the Gravina gorge, the town boasts Baroque churches and elegant palazzi with wide piazzas that hum with activity particularly in the evenings when the locals stroll the streets for their daily passeggiata. But beneath the rugged mountain landscape and hustle and bustle of everyday life lies a sprawling labyrinth of underground caves and churches, very much resembling a giant termite mound. These sandy-coloured caves that spiral up towards a wobbling church that teeters at the top of the tumbling cluster of rock are known as the Sassi and were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. Nowadays, crumbling caves sit side by side with chic hotels and restaurants that have been lovingly restored allowing you to experience the atmosphere alongside the local cuisine, which features fresh oven-baked bread, traditional burrata cheese and a wide variety of home-made pasta washed down with Materaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wonderful DOC wines.

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THE SASSI >

SEE

Aside from Petra in Jordan, Matera’s sassi (literally 'stones’) represent the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in history, its cave dwellings dating all the way back to the Palaeolithic age. Carved out of the soft rock face by prehistoric settlers and hermit monks who settled in the caves during the Middle Ages, the ancient grottoes were later transformed into crypts, rocky churches and cave dwellings that were inhabited right up until the 1950s when the area was evacuated due to poor living conditions. Since its addition to the list of World Heritage Sites in 1993 by UNESCO, who described the area as ‘the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean’, the desolate region and its caves have been renewed and even revamped into luxury hotels and atmospheric restaurants, offering an incredible glimpse into the archeological and cultural gems hidden within the rocky cave walls. The settlement also comprises more than a hundred rock-hewn churches some of which boast stunning medieval frescoes built into the cliffside church walls that represent some of the greatest examples of rock art in the world. It’s no wonder then that this dramatic landscape has been the cinematic inspiration for numerous film directors, most notably Mel Gibson's ‘The Passion of the Christ’, which was filmed here.

Matera > See > The Sassi

Somewhere EXTRAORDINARY 49

Something TRADITIONAL WITH FOCACCIA TASTING

BAKERY TOUR >

This family bakery in Altamura is a hub of living culinary heritage and divine flavours sure to make even the fullest of tummies rumble. None of this bakery’s products have been touched by machines; each and every loaf, biscuit and bread has been lovingly handmade by the family that have worked here for generations. Di Gesu even boasts its own DOP certificate that indicates a very specific manner of bread-making from the type of wood burned in the stone ovens, the ingredients used and the shape and style of the loaves, which are marked with a cross. Take a look inside the traditional working room with its ancient wood burning oven and wooden planks covered with perfect rolls of soft dough dusted and ready to be rolled. The stone ovens were built in the 1800s and can bake up to 300 kilos of bread at any one time! The ingredients are simple and organic: ground semolina, ‘grano duro’ grain from Alta Murgia along with natural yeast, tepid water and marine salt. Once you’ve heard all about the bread-making process you’ll be invited to taste some of the bakery's products. Think thick slices of focaccia encrusted with sun-blushed tomatoes and black olives, traditional biscuits still warm from the oven, and sweet plaited loaves sprinkled with sugar. Save space in your suitcase - you’ll no doubt leave the bakery armed with enough bread and tasty biscuits to feed a small army!

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ITALIAN COOKING >

Master the art of Italian cooking and learn how to prepare a range of traditional dishes for an authentic taste of Southern Italy. Although the location of the class can differ according to group numbers, the session will likely take place in a traditional masseria (farmhouse), half an hour’s drive from Matera. In the kitchen you’ll get straight to work chopping, mixing and cooking the freshest of ingredients, many of which have been grown on the grounds of the masseria, under the expert eye of your Italian chef who will let you in on the secrets of the local cuisine and offer plenty of special tips and tricks so you can prepare fabulous dishes back at home. You’ll whip up three courses in total including an antipasto, fresh pasta like cavatelli with a delicious sauce and a main course. Reap the fruits of your labour at the end of it all by tucking in to your homemade meal and enjoy a couple of glasses of local wine while you’re at it! Do let us know in advance if you are a vegetarian or have any special dietary requirements that we should cater for.

Something CREATIVE IN THE KITCHEN

Matera > Do > Italian Cooking

SASSI TOUR > As wonderful as it is to lose yourself in the maze of the sassi, the experience can become somewhat disorientating with its twisting alleys, higgledy-piggledy courtyards and jumble of caves that tangle into a giant rocky mound. That is why we recommend a walking tour of the area with an experienced local guide who knows the twists and turns of the sassi like the back of their hand. Get an authentic glimpse into what conditions were like living in the grottoes with a peek into Casa Grotta a typical cave dwelling that has been re-decorated with all the traditional furnishings and learn more about the system of cisterns that allowed the locals to collect rainwater through an extensive network of pipes. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll also visit the ancient rock-hewn churches (chiese rupestri) including the Church of Santa Maria della Valle and the Crypt of Original Sin, both of which feature extraordinary frescoes built into the rock. Price: On request Duration: 2 hours

Something INFORMATIVE 54

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BACCANTI>

Somewhere ELEGANT IN A CAVE

You’re sleeping in a cave so why not dine in one too? This cave restaurant is pure elegance with a cool ambiance and excellent modern twists on local food at reasonable prices. The freshly baked bread is delicious particularly soaked in lots of organic olive oil. A great choice for dinner or when the weather is hot. Opening Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 1pm - 3.30pm, 8pm - 11.30pm, Sunday 1pm - 4pm Address: Via Sant'Angelo 58/61 Contact Number: +39 083 533 3704

LA LATTERIA > The place to come for a taste of local specialities including a variety of cheeses and meats accompanied with some nice crusty bread and a glass of Primitivo wine. Don’t expect anything fancy though, it’s a simple eatery with a handful of informal tables set behind the main delicatessen area. Local food, local prices. Opening Hours: daily until 10pm in the summer Address: Via Duni Emanuele 2 Contact Number: +39 083 531 2058

Matera > Eat > Baccanti / La Latteria

EAT Somewhere INFORMAL FOR LOCAL SPECIALITIES

CHILL

Somewhere UNIQUE FOR CREATIVE GELATO

Somewhere FUN FOR PRE-DINNER DRINKS

DRINK 58

I VIZI DELI ANGELI > A creative gelateria with some extraordinary ice cream flavours. Think tongue-tingling sorbets with tangerine and basil, lollies bursting with fresh fruit, just-made ice creams flavoured with lavender and blueberry, salted liquorice, toasted pine nuts and pistachio. Crazy stuff! Opening Hours: Thurs to Tues 1pm - 11.30pm, Closed Wed Address: Via Domenico Ridola 36 Contact Number: +39 083 531 0637

VICOLO CIECO > This funky little bar is a great spot for a pre-dinner aperitivo right in the heart of the Sassi. The interior is kitted out with retro touches includes up-cycled furniture and creative decorations, and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a cute exterior courtyard for al fresco drinks and nibbles. Buzzy atmosphere, friendly service and often live music too. Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday 11am - 3am Address: Via Fiorentini 74 Contact Number: +39 338 855 0984 www.untravelledpaths.com

ITRIA VALLEY

LEARN > Itria Valley (62-63)

SEE >

Locorotondo (64-65) Alberobello (66-67)

DO >

Wine Tasting (68-69) Olive Oil Tasting (70-71) Alberobello Tour (72-73)

EAT >

Uâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Curdunn (74-75) La Cantina (76-77) Favola in Tavola (78-79)

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A patchwork of redsoiled fields, fertile vineyards and ancient olive groves dotted with traditional farmhouses and the distinctive coneshaped roofs of trulli

ITRIA VALLEY > For us, the Itria Valley is the jewel in Puglia’s crown. Its endless countryside is a patchwork of red-soiled fields, fertile vineyards and ancient olive groves dotted with traditional farmhouses and the distinctive cone-shaped roofs of trulli houses – as far as the eye can see! Home to the beautiful white-washed towns of Locorotondo and Ostuni as well as the capital of trulliland, Alberobello, each of the valley’s charming towns has its own magical quality and fairytale-like atmosphere along with its own local specialities from capocollo ham in Martina Franca and meaty bombette in Cisternino to Locorotondo’s very own DOC white wine. So what exactly is there to do in the Itria Valley? Simple. Stroll through pristine sun-kissed towns, tuck into plates of fresh Italian food laced with extra-virgin olive oil, sup on fragrant wines, get to know some age-old olive trees, and mess around in hobbit-like trulli.

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LOCOROTONDO >

In a country renowned for its picture-postcard pretty towns and a region full to bursting with them, Locorotondo claims the mantle as one of the most beautiful in Italy. Perched atop a high in the heart of the Itria Valley, the circular spiraling of the white-walled houses give the town its name - literally meaning ‘round town’ - and overlook the rolling countryside below with its smooth hills, ancient olive groves and cone-roofed trulli houses. The pedestrianised historic centre (centro storico) is an absolute gem of a place - a maze of winding alleys paved with shimmering ivory-coloured stones flanked by historic houses perfectly white save for the blue of the sky and a splash of colourful flowers that spill from the balconies. Meander through the narrow lanes of this tiny town losing yourself in its sleepy charm, perhaps stumbling across the 17th century church of Santa Maria della Graecia nestled amidst slanted staircases and Baroque balconies. Once you’ve feasted on a delicious lunch and a glass or two of the region’s own DOC sparkling wine, head over to the small public garden just outside the town walls and marvel at the panoramic views with a gelato in hand. We honestly can’t think of a better way to spend an afternoon. Pure Italian bliss.

Itria Valley > See > Locorotondo

SEE

Somewhere PICTURE-POSTCARD PRETTY 65

ALBEROBELLO > SEE

Somewhere MAGICAL OUT OF A FAIRYTALE 66

Welcome to Trulli-Land! Anyone who has read anything about Puglia will no doubt be familiar with the existence of conical-roofed dwellings that pepper the Itria Valley countryside. These distinctive cylindrical constructions are unique to the area and make up the entire town of Alberobello, which has to be the undisputed trulli capital of the world. Alberobello is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to some 1,400 magical trulli houses nestled within the sloping, winding streets of the charming old town including a trullo-church and the Trullo Sovrano, which is the only two-storey trullo youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll come across. Constructed from thick limestone blocks, legend has it that the trulli were built without cement or mortar as a way of avoiding property taxes so when the tax collectors were on their way around Southern Italy, the locals would simply dismantle their houses and carry on as usual! Many of the trulli are open to visitors and feature exhibits, tools and examples of local tradition and while weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not particularly keen on the trinkets sold and the droves of tourist groups, you simply cannot leave Puglia without seeing Alberobello. www.untravelledpaths.com

WINE TASTING >

Something TASTY FOR THE PALETTE

Learn more about the process and art of winemaking with a vineyard tour and tasting session at Cantina I Pastini In the heart of the Itria Valley. Located between the whitewashed towns of Locorotondo and Martina Franca, the vineyards are famous for their production of white grapes including indigenous varieties of Verdeca, Bianco d’Alessano and Fiano Minutolo, their unique taste a result of the hot summer weather an a steadily northerly wind. By preserving traditional winegrowing traditions in the vineyards and fusing them with modern winemaking techniques in the cellars, their wines represent an evolved method of local viticulture. You’ll start with a guided tour through the vineyards and across the traditional farm with its collection of ancient original trulli and beautiful panoramic views where you’ll find out about how wines are grown, harvested, and bottled before taking part in a tasting session. Enjoy savouring the flavours of the winery’s local wines alongside a taste of some typical nibbles including bagels, olives and dried beans.

Itria Valley > Do > Wine Tasting

DO 69

OLIVE OIL TASTING >

Something WONDERFUL AMIDST THE OLIVE GROVES

A visit to Puglia simply wouldn’t be complete without a leisurely stroll around a grove of sun-kissed olive trees. The family run farmhouse of Masseria Brancati boasts some extensive organic olive orchards full of ancient olive trees that date back to preRoman times. Enjoy a wander through the groves in the beautiful afternoon sunshine where you will be introduced to some particularly special olive trees some of which have been carbon dated to 3,000 years old. These ancient trees are so precious that they have been declared as natural monuments and have even been fitted with GPS tracking mechanisms to ensure they stay safe and sound. Afterwards, you’ll descend into the original underground mill and press area that had been used for olive oil production since the bronze age before having a wander around the wonderful display of household artefacts and agricultural instruments upstairs. The tasting session takes place in the peaceful farm courtyard where you’ll be invited to sample a variety of the estate’s delicious and organic extra virgin olive oils. The citrus infused oil is particularly excellent. By the end of it you’ll come away with some expert tips on selecting a good oil and no doubt a few bottles of (very reasonably priced) extra virgin olive oil to enjoy at home. www.untravelledpaths.com

ALBEROBELLO

Something INFORMATIVE

WALKING TOUR >

Weave your way through the magical stone streets of Alberobello with your very own expert local guide who will reveal the secrets behind the region’s iconic trulli – the unusual dry stone houses with conical roofs that pepper the Puglian countryside. The UNESCO Heritage-listed town boasts more than a thousand trulli, many of which are still inhabited to this day. Learn about the ingenious construction techniques used to build the structures, check out the town’s one and only twostory trullo (Trullo Sovrano), peek inside the cool interiors of Aia Piccola’s multiple trulli, admire the town’s very own trullo Church of Sant’Antonio, and take some greats snaps of trulli-land at the panoramic viewpoint over Rione Monti. Price: Price on request Duration: around 2 hours

Itria Valley > Do > Alberobello Walking Tour

EAT

Somewhere QUAINT FOR LUNCH

U’CURDUNN >

Nestled down one of Locorotondo's narrow cobblestone alleyways in the historic centre, this charming little trattoria is the perfect spot for lunch. Oozing elegance without being stuffy, we adore the smart setting and relaxed ambiance almost as much as the food. Outside, a handful of tables is surrounded by colourful blossoms and topped with pristine linen tablecloths and crystal glasses while the interior boasts white-washed vaulted ceilings and contemporary decorations. The menu is brimming with local specialties made from seasonal organic produce including purea di fave (bean purée with sautéed chicory) and a fragrant rabbit stew alongside a perfectly balanced selection of local wines. The house white is particularly good and very reasonably priced. For the perfect start to a long, lazy lunch make sure you order the plate of antipasti which includes tasty bites of fried zucchini flower, a delicate stack of aubergines along with a variety of local salami and cheeses. Absolutely divine! Opening Hours: Wednesday to Monday 12.30pm - 3pm Address: Via Dura 19, Locorotondo Contact Number: +39 080 431 1433

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LA CANTINA >

Somewhere FUN FOR LOCAL SPECIALITIES

EAT

Fresh seasonal ingredients, simple dishes with bold flavours and a wonderful atmosphere. Watch the chef and his team whip up traditional delicacies at the open kitchen, filling the room with the intoxicating smells of authentic Italy. There are only seven tables so do make a reservation in advance. Opening Hours: Wed to Mon 12pm - 3pm then 8pm - 11.30pm, Closed Tues Address: Vico Lippolis 8, Alberobello Contact Number: +39 080 432 3473

FAVOLA IN TAVOLA > You wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t regret seeking out this unassuming gem, which is wonderfully devoid of tourists. The service is top-class and the traditional-meets-modern dishes are perfectly complemented with the selection of local wines. With only a handful of tables we highly recommend booking ahead to avoid disappointment. Opening Hours: Mon 7.30pm - 11pm, Tues 12.30pm - 3pm, Wed to Sun 12.30pm - 3pm, 7.30pm - 11pm Address: Via Brigata Regina 37, Alberobello Contact Number: +39 080 4324526

Somewhere INTIMATE & AUTHENTIC

Itria Valley > Eat > La Cantina / Favola in Tavola

LANGUAGE

ITALIAN Learn just a handful of Italian words and phrases and you’ll transform your experience! That’s because, while English is common in Italy’s larger cities like Rome and Venice it’s not as widely spoken in in Puglia. So to experience off-the-beaten-path Italy, a little Italian goes a long way! And don’t worry about practicing on locals; Italians tend to be friendly and patient with foreigners. No idea where to start? Fear not, help is at hand. We’ve collated a collection of the most useful Italian words and phrases. And even if you don’t learn a single word or phrase knowing how to pronounce the language can get you a long way.

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PRONOUNCIATION

MENO MALE!

Italian words can be rather long (and poetic!), but here’s a helpful tip for pronouncing them: most of the time, stress falls on the second-to-last syllable. (So “Venezia” is “Ve-NE-zia”; “castello” is “cas-TELL-o”). Vowels show up a lot in lyrical Italian. So just remember that “a” is pronounced like the a in father, “i” like the “ee” in greet, and “u” like the u in rule. The vowels “e” and “o” can be open or closed, depending on the word. Meanwhile, many consonants sound like their English equivalent. The most important exceptions are the letter “c” before “i” or “e” is pronounced like a “ch,” “g” before an “i” or “e” is pronounced like the g in “general,” “h” is always silent, “r” is almost always rolled and “z” is pronounced like the “ds” in “lads” at the beginning of the sentence, and like the “ts” in sets in all other cases. Double consonants can be a bit tricky, but here are some rules to remember: “ch” sounds like the “c” in “car,” “gli” sounds like the “ll” in million, “gn” sounds like the “ny” in “canyon,” and “sc” sounds like the “sh” in “shush” before i and e, and like “sk” in “skip” in all other cases. Got that? Great! Now, here’s a quick starter guide to essential Italian words and phrases… and, of course, you’ll now be able to pronounce them!

The Rest > Language > Pronunciation

IMPORTANT SIGNS

Men

Uomoni

Women

Donne

Entrance

Entrata

Exit

Uscita

Push

Spingere

Pull

Tirare

Open

Aperto

Closed

Chiuso

Right

Destra

Left

Sinistra

Vicino

Far

Lontano

Forbidden

Proibito

No Smoking

Non fumatori

GREETINGS Buongiorno

Buona sera

Buona notte

Ciao

Salve

Arrivederci

Good morning Translates to ‘good day’ so can be used right up until the afternoon Good evening Use in the late afternoon and evening Good night Only used to say goodbye, it is usually said before parting ways after 10pm, or before going to sleep. Hello or goodbye A very informal greeting. Hello A formal way to say hello, it is Latin after all and is used as an in-between for “ciao” and “buongiorno.” Goodbye A formal way to say goodbye. Literally means “until we see each other again.”

2 3

WORDS & PHRASES Per favore Grazie

Prego Mi chiamo…

Non parlo italiano Parla inglese?

Sì

No Che ore sono? Quanto costa? Il Bagno?

Buon appetito

Please Thank you You may also hear “grazie mille” (literally “a thousand thanks”) to mean many thanks. You’re welcome My name is… You may also say “Sono….” I don’t speak Italian Do you speak English? This is the formal version, but you can also ask parli inglese? if you’d like to be informal. Yes Other popular affirmations include va bene (fine) and okay. No What time is it? How much is it? Bathroom Just in case you need to go to the loo! Men should follow uomini and women should head for donne. Enjoy your meal. Almost always said when a meal is served. Literally means ‘good apetite’.

POPULAR EXPRESSIONS

Allora Perhaps one of the most popular Italian words, allora is a great way to transition between sentences. It can also be used to start a sentence or question like “so…”, “well…” or “therefore…” and as a reference to a time in the past. Dai! This exclamation is short, but packs a lot of meaning. Can be used for exclamations like “come on!” or disbelief, like “really?!”. Meno male! Its translation means "less bad," but it's used like, "thank goodness!" So you can say: "Fiorentina won? Meno male!" "I passed the test? Meno male!” Magari The Italian counterpart to "I wish!" "let's hope!" or "perhaps!" When someone asks you if you plan on coming back to Italy and living in a trullo in the Itria Valley, you can respond with "Magari!" (because of course you do). Basta! "Enough!" "That's it!" Use it to stop the fruit vendor from filling your bag with twenty extra oranges: Basta, basta! Add it to the end of your order: "Una pizza e basta" Or shout it to the people singing songs at 4 a.m. outside your hotel window: "BASTA!" 85

RECIPES

The Puglia Kitchen

RECIPES

To help you re-create and savour your Dolce Vita experience, we’ve pulled together a few recipes from Puglia that you can whip up and enjoy at home. The three recipes we’ve chosen are the dishes you’re most likely to encounter on your travels through Puglia and are typical of Southern Italy in general. You should be well prepared after your Italian Cooking class and the visit to Orecchiette Lane in Bari, and if you pick up some local supplies on the way, more the better. You can’t go wrong with a good bottle of extra virgin olive oil, some taralli, a bag of orecchiette (unless of course you want to prepare them fresh!), and a lovely bottle of Primitivo wine. Get your apron on and cook up a feast that will take you back to beautiful Puglia. Buon apetito!

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Orecchiette con Cime di Rape This is the dish that most strongly defines traditional Puglian cuisine. The name “orecchiette” derives from the shape of this pasta, in the form of a little ear. Now you’ve seen how they’re made you could even prepare the pasta fresh! (Serves 2)

No. #01

ORECCHIETTE CON CIME DI RAPE

Ingredients

600g cime di rape (leafy broccoli) 300-350g orecchiette pasta 1 clove of garlic Chili powder Extra virgin olive oil Grated parmesan or pecorino cheese (optional)

Method

1. Rinse the broccoli thoroughly and remove any particularly tough large leaves before chopping off the large ends of the thickest stalks. Once that is done, give them another rinse. 2. Throw greens into a pan of boiling water (with ½ tablespoon of salt to keep green colour) and remove leaves once stalks have soften (around 5 mins) and set aside. Use remaining water to boil the pasta. 3. Fry garlic clove in olive oil over a medium heat until golden. Take pan off heat and remove garlic before adding broccoli, chilli powder and a pinch of salt. Put the pan back on heat and fry for a few minutes until all excess water has evaporated. 4. Bring the pan of broccoli water to the boil adding a small spoonful of olive oil before tipping the orecchiette in and cooking as per the instructions on the packet. Fresh pasta only needs 2 minutes. 5. Once the pasta is cooked (nice and al dente), drain and add to the frying pan with the greens along with a handful of grated parmesan or pecorino. Stir through over a medium heat for a couple of minutes before serving with an extra drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

The Rest > Recipes > Orecchiette con Cime di Rape

No. #02

PURE DI FAVE E CICORIE

Purè di Fave e Cicorie Puglians are fanatical lovers of greens, and if you visit during the winter moths you can be almost certain of being offered this Fava Bean Puree which is usually served as a starter and accompanied by sautéed chicory greens and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Peasant food of the finest kind! (8 servings)

Ingredients

2 cups dried split fava beans 2 cups all-purpose potatoes, peeled and quartered 1 tsp fine sea salt ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb chicory, stemmed, washed and drained

Method

1. Place the beans and potatoes in a pot, add enough water to cover, and add the salt. Bring to a boil and boil uncovered for about 30 minutes, or until the beans are tender but not mushy. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup of the cooking water. 2. Transfer the beans and potatoes to a food processor. Add 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of the oil and the reserved cooking water, and puree smooth. Remove the puree to a saucepan and keep warm over very low heat. 3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the chicory and cook until tender (about 20 minutes). Drain well then spread the chicory on a serving platter. 4. Spoon the fava bean puree over the chicory. Drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the top and serve immediately.

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Fabulous Focaccia In most parts of Italy, focaccia is a flat bread often dotted with oil and sprigs of rosemary or bits of tomato, that is quickly baked, like a pizza, on the floor of a wood-fired oven. Traditionally, this was the bread that went in first, to test the oven's heat. In Puglia, however, things are a little different. Here, the same word, focaccia, refers to a freeform bread, something like a pizza, that is traditionally topped with tomatoes and/or black olives. (Makes 2)

No. #03

FABULOUS FOCACCIA

Ingredients

For the dough: 8 oz potatoes 1 ¼ tsp dried yeast 1 ½ cups warm water 3 ¾ cups durum flour 2 tsp salt

For the topping: 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 5-6 sun-blushed tomatoes 5-10 whole black olives ½ tsp salt ½ tsp oregano

Method

1. About 20 minutes before making the dough, peel the potatoes and boil them until tender. Drain well then mash them. 2. Stir the yeast into the warm water in a large mixing bowl then add the flour, warm potatoes and salt in two additional. Mix together then knead for 10 minutes. Place the dough into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a tea towel and let it rise until it has doubled in size. 3. Divide the dough in half and shape into a ball. Place each ball into a well-oiled 9" round baking pan and stretch the dough towards the edges. Cover, let sit for 10 minutes then stretch a little more. Cover again and leave until it has doubled. 5. Preheat the oven to 400F then dimple the dough with your fingers then sprinkle with olive oil, tomatoes, salt and oregano. 7. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until golden then cool on a wire rack. Devour in one sitting with a bottle of cold Italian beer.

The Rest > Recipes > Fabulous Focaccia

TIPS & TRICKS • •

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TIPS & TRICKS

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Do as the Italians do and take your coffee standing at the bar. In many places you’ll need to pay extra for table service In restaurants coffee (usually espresso) is normally served only after the entire meal is finished. Italians don't drink coffee with their meal and they generally don't drink cappuccino after noon Italians rarely say ‘ please' when asking for something. 'Two coffees please' would be simply 'due caffè’ so don’t feel the need to add too many ‘p’s into the conversation. They will however always say ’thank you’ (grazie) to which the response will always be ‘prego’ - you’re welcome You’ll typically have to pay a couple of euros cover charge or ‘coperto’ in restaurant. This is the Italian way so don’t be surprised if you see it added to your bill Latte is the Italian word for milk and if you order a latte, especially outside tourist areas, you may end up with a glass of milk Be prepared to put on a few pounds during your stay in Puglia. This is Italy’s food capital so if ever there was an excuse it is now! Upon meeting and leave-taking, both friends and strangers wish each other good day or good evening (buongiorno, buonasera); ciao isn't used between strangers. Italians who are friends greet each other with a kiss, usually first on the left cheek, then on the right. When you meet a new person, shake hands You’ll often see locals shouting and gesticulating madly at one another in the street. Do not be alarmed they’re not having an argument! Each day of the year has at least one patron saint associated with it and Italian children are named after a specific saint. Their saint’s

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day is celebrated as much as their birthday. Why not find out when your Italian saint’s day is? A few tips for visiting churches - never bring food into a church, do not sip from your water bottle while inside, switch off mobile phones before entering, and never go into a church during a service The perfect drink for a pizza is beer or a soft drink. You unlikely to see Italians drinking wine with their pizza Be aware that bathrooms in bars and cafes are reserved for customers so if you need the loo order a quick espresso before using the facilities Shops tend to close for lunch just after midday until later in the afternoon around 3pm or 4pm When ordering coffee in bars, you’re typically expected to pay for it first then show the scontrino (proof of payment) to the bartender who’ll serve your coffee Italians don’t put ice in their drinks so if you’d like some then you’ll need to request it The aperitivo is a wonderful tradition that you should embrace during your stay. Bars often offer an aperitivo buffet with any drinks you order, which will range from simple chips and taralli to sophisticated warm appetizers Italians eat dinner late and not before 8pm. If hunger strikes early have an afternoon snack (a merenda) and grab a pasticciotto at the local pasticceria or head to a bar for an aperitivo Never, ever give chrysanthemums as a flower gift to anyone. They are considered the flowers of the dead, and only brought to cemeteries. When entering someone’s house, it is customary to ask for permission on the doorstep, even if you’ve been invited already. Just shout ‘permesso!' Italians aren’t particularly good at queuing so be prepared to make yourself seen and heard Purple is considered bad luck so perhaps leave the maroon shirts at home

The Rest > Tips & Tricks

Do as the Italians do and take your coffee standing at the bar.

WITH THANKS

WITH THANKS We hope this information pack has been useful to you and we’d love to know what you think. So if you’ve noticed any mistakes, or inconsistencies then please do get in touch and let us know. We’re always looking for feedback too so if you think something’s been misleading or you happen to stumble upon a little gem of a restaurant, a gorgeous little café or a buzzing bar that you think deserves a mention then please do fill us in. We’re sure there are plenty of hidden delights we have yet to discover! Oh, and we also accept positive comments. Enjoy your trip and keep in touch! The Untravelled Paths Team KEEP IN TOUCH: Untravelled Paths 24 Ferncroft Avenue London NW3 7PH www.untravelledpaths.com info@untravelledpaths.com 0207 101 4061 Facebook: /UntravelledPaths Twitter: @untravpaths www.untravelledpaths.com

TRIP DISCOUNTS

TRIP DISCOUNTS Just to say thank you for travelling with us, we’re happy to offer you a 10% discount on any other Untravelled Paths experience within 18 months of your trip. Simply let us know during the booking process that you’re a UTP super client but please note that this discount is not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Take a look online for some inspiration on the sorts of experience we have in our collection and if you enjoyed the Dolce Vita Experience we reckon you’d love...

THE TRANSYLVANIA EXPERIENCE Discover medieval towns and remote countryside villages in Romania’s traditional Transylvania region.

THE MONTENEGRO EXPERIENCE Spend time exploring the glittering coast and the mountain-studded interior of the tiny gem of Montenegro.

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office: 020 7101 4061 Â&#x2014; e-mail: info@untravelledpaths.com web: untravelledpaths.com