The Iberian Lynx Experience eBooklet by marionkatrina

THE

IBERIAN LYNX EXPERIENCE BOOKLET

THE

IBERIAN LYNX EXPERIENCE BOOKLET

A warm welcome to the Untravelled Paths Iberian Lynx Experience Booklet on behalf of all the team! We do hope you’re excited about your upcoming adventure through the heart of Southern Spain and we’re sure you’ll find the material in this pack both useful and informative in preparation of your trip as well as during your visit with us. If you’ve not yet touched down on Spanish soil, you’ll probably want to refer to the Basics section of the guide as this will brief you on the essentials for visiting, including information on what sort of weather to expect, and what to pack for your trip. Please note that as Spain is more ‘travelled’ than our other destinations, most of the information will be related specifically to the Andalucía region. With recommendations specific to each destination on your trip, including information about what to see and where to eat and drink, this booklet will act as your bible when you’re in Andalucía. Travel safe! The UTP Team www.untravelledpaths.com

THE BASICS Fast Facts (4-5) Cash & Currency (6-9) Weather & Climate (10-11) Preparation & Packing (16-17) Food & Drink (12-15) Health & Safety (18-21)

CONTENTS

THE GUIDE Seville (22-45) Sierre de Andujar (46-59) Cordoba (60-69)

THE REST Language (70-75) Tips & Tricks (76-79) Did You Know? (80-83) With Thanks (84-85) Trip Discounts (86-87)

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FAST FACTS

Country: Region: Motto:

Spain Andalusia (Andalucía in Spanish) ‘Andalucía por sí, para España y la humanidad’ (Andalusia by itself, for Spain and humanity) Regional Capital: Seville Provinces: Cadiz, Cordoba, Jaen, Huelva, Almeria, Malaga, Granada and Seville Time Difference: Area: Population:

GMT +1 hour 33,694 sq. miles (17.2% of Spain) 8,402,305 (17.84% of Spain’s total)

Language: Religion: Home of: Dialling Code: Emergency Number: Electricity:

Spanish Catholic Flamenco; bullfighting; tapas +34 112 (no code required) 220 volts (standard continental adapter)

Currency: Exchange Rate:

Euro (EUR) £1 = around 1.1€

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THE BASICS Cash & Currency

CASH & CURRENCY Currency > The currency in Spain is the euro. If you haven’t already got some spare euros then there are a a few options to get hold of your holiday cash. 1. Get it locally: The easiest option is to head to a cash machine once you’ve touched down in Spain to withdraw funds. There are ATMs in most of the major towns including Seville and Cordoba so access shouldn’t be a problem just take note of the advice below when it comes to withdrawing and bear in mind that you typically won’t be able to take out more than €250 a day. Alternatively you can exchange currency at a bank. If you’d like to change money at a bank then do make sure you go in the mornings as local banks are often closed during the afternoon. 2. Get it at home: If you’re set on getting your money organised before you travel, head to an exchange bureau in the UK when the euro is readily available. 3. Get it online: You can also purchase currency online and collect it from your local post office or even have it delivered straight to your door. Ordering currency online with the Post Office is commission free and available for next day delivery. Obviously the more you buy the better rate you’ll receive. ATMs (cajero automatico) > Most towns and villages in Spain will have at least one cash machine, or ‘cajero’ as they are called here. When withdrawing money you’ll be offered two exchange rates, one from the local bank and another from your UK bank. Make sure you opt to take you UK bank’s exchange rate as it will be substantially better value. Please also note that most cash machines charge

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approximately £1.50 per withdrawal so use them sparingly. If you’re keen to avoid being charged, a new bank called Metro Bank offers accounts and cards that are free to use abroad both for cash withdrawals at ATMs and when paying on card machines. Credit/Debit Cards > Most major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard) are accepted throughout Andalucia however it can be a good idea to have cash on you just in case. As a general rule though you should have no problem using your card to pay for drinks or dinner using your PIN number. It is always advisable to inform your bank that you’re travelling abroad in order to avoid the frustration of having your card blocked. Budget > In order to give you some direction on how much spending money to budget for your trip to Spain, we thought it would be a good idea to offer some guidelines in terms of costs. As a general rule, Southern Spain represents excellent value for money and you’ll be able to have a good lunch for around £10 a head and will pay around £15 a head for a nice evening meal. Naturally, the type of establishment you choose to eat in and what you order will dictate the cost of your meals. Be aware that ordering imported drinks can cause your bill to sky-rocket so drinking local wines, beers or spirits is advisable. We reckon around £200 for meals, drinks and snacks for two people is plenty. Please note that these are rough estimates and you can always choose to spend more or less depending on your budget and preferences.

Bottle of Water: 80p Pint of Beer: £1.50 - £2.50 Café con leche: 90p Pack of Cigarettes: from £3.50 Glass of Wine: from £2.50 One Tapas: between £1.50 - £2.50 Tipping > Tipping in Andalucia is by no means compulsory and Spaniards are fairly relaxed about tipping etiquette, however it is customary in restaurants as service is not typically included. If it isn’t do leave an appropriate tip relative to the standard of service you’ve received (typically up to 10%). Do as the Spaniards do and leave some small change on the bar in cafes. It is also commonplace to round up fares in a taxi to the nearest euro.

General Costs > The prices below for general items and sundries should give you a better idea of costs in Spain. Please note these are averages. 08

The Basics > Cash & Currency

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THE BASICS Weather & Climate

WEATHER & CLIMATE Winter Climate > One of the great things about Andalucia is that the forecast is almost always sunny, even in winter! There’s still around 5-6 hours of sunshine throughout the winter season and despite the temperatures being cooler than through the summer months they are certainly much warmer than other parts of Europe. The climate does vary within the region itself but here are some notes on average temperatures and rainfall. Temperatures > Average temperatures are between 11°C and 12°C from December to February, while highs can reach between 15°C and 17°C. The highest winter temperatures are typically experienced in Seville, which have been known to hit a very toasty 26°C! The lowest daytime temperatures are unlikely to fall below 7°C. Rainfall > The winter season has the highest levels of rainfall, due to the weather systems sweeping in from the west. In recent years, January received three times as much rainfall than the average in the last thirty years,. On average though, there’s around 76mm of rain in December falling to 59mm by February. Snow > It has been known to snow in January in Andalusia, but this is not very common and has only ever been a light coating.

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THE BASICS Preparation & Packing

PREPARATION & PACKING Clothing & Footwear > Despite Andalucian winters being mild in comparison to those back home, you will be spending a fair amount of time in the Sierra de Andujar nature reserve spotting lynx and wildlife where standing still is common and weather conditions can be changeable. It is always best to err on the side of caution so preparing for cold weather is preferable even if the weather ends up being mild and dry. To maximize lynx spotting you’ll want to remain as inconspicuous as possible so dark-coloured clothing is key. Think black, navy blue and dark green attire. Aside from standard autumn/winter clothing for exploring Seville and Cordoba, we recommend packing the following: • Layers of warm, dark-coloured clothing • A woolen fleece or warm jumper for wildlife watching in the early morning and during the evenings when temperatures drop • A waterproof to protect against any wind or rain • Warm and comfortable shoes such as a pair of trainers or walking boots • Scarf, hat and gloves Other Essentials > Aside from clothing and footwear mentioned above you it is also a good bet to pack the following additional items: • Sun cream and sunglasses (you never know…!) • Binoculars for wildlife spotting • Camera • Umbrella • Small day pack for lynx spotting excursions • Swimsuit for those planning on using the Arabic baths in Seville

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THE BASICS Food & Drink

FOOD & DRINK Andalusian Cuisine > Andalusia’s rich and varied cuisine is a reflection of the region’s colourful history with influences from the Romans who introduced the iconic gazpacho, as well as the Moors who brought in exotic spices like cumin and cinnamon, fruits and vegetables such as dates and spinach, and planted hundreds of orange and almond trees. Food and drink is a cornerstone of the Andalusian culture; a place where tapas was born and locals often eat out in traditional bars. Meals > Meal times are much later in Andalusia than back home. Breakfast bars won’t get full until around 10.30am where most locals have a simple cafe con leche (coffee with milk) and a tostada (bread with various topping from olive oil and tomatoes to pringa) for breakfast. Lunch is the main meal of the day and typically served between 2pm and 4pm where tapas bars are heaving with locals enjoying tapas and cold cruzcampo beer; and restaurants open for dinner around 8pm and 8.30pm but locals don’t arrive until 9pm at the earliest where they tend to stand around the bar and tuck into a light supper made up of a few plates of tapas. Tapas > Seville is the home of tapas and going on a tapeo (tapas bar crawl) in the evenings is one of our favourite ways to experience the local culture. Fit in with the locals by standing at the bar, and only order tapas dishes a little at a time. On most menus there are three different sizes/categories of the same type of tapas. Tapas (individually sized for one), media raciones (half plates) and raciones (full plates). The last two are meant to be shared.

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Traditional Tapas > Don’t miss out on trying the following local dishes in an oldschool tapas bar in Seville or Cordoba. • Salmorejo - cold tomato soup classically topped with a hard boiled egg and plenty of jamon • Solomillo al whiskey - a garlicky, whiskey sauce served with pork loin • Espinacas con garbanzos - spinach and chickpea stew heavily spiced with cumin from the Moorish tradition • Jamon Iberico de Bellota - acorn fed Iberian ham of the highest quality) • Cazon en adobo - dogfish fried in a tangy marinade • Pringa - pork stew spread that is eaten on toast • Boquerones - white anchovies • Ajo blanco - cold soup make with garlic and blanched almonds sometimes served topped with grilled prawns or chopped grapes and tomatoes. A speciality in Cordoba • Montaditos - mini snack-sized sandwiches • Carrillada de cerdo - slow-cooked pork cheeks • Presa iberica - pork shoulder, best cooked medium rare and on the grill • Carne de toro - stewed bull meat or rabo del toro where the tail of the bull is served stewed

• •

Flor de azahar ice cream - orange blossom ice cream, a taste of Seville in a cone! Chocolate con churros - fried sugar-dusted fingers of dough dipped in thick hot chocolate

Drinks > From beer and wine to the region’s famous sherry, make sure you pair your tapas with one of these local tipples. • Cruzcampo - the local beer typically served ice cold from a frozen tap! • Manzanilla - dry sherry only produced in the Sherry Triangle in Andalusia with a saltiness that comes from the contact between the barrels the sherry is aged in and the ocean breeze. Pairs perfectly with salty fried almonds or jamon iberico) • Vino de naranja - sweet fortified orange wine with a slightly bitter flavour from the orange peel. Pair with some cured cheeses • Tinto de verano - the local version of sangria, this refreshing drink of red wine mixed with lemonade is best enjoyed in the summer)

Sweet Treats > • Torrijas - sweets that are like a cross between french toast and bread pudding typically served around Easter. Classic ones are soaked in honey or in milk with cinnamon and sugar • Dulces del convento - biscuits and pastries baked by nuns and sold in 15 different convents across the Seville. Some specialise in only one sweet while others have a range on offer. Try as many as you can and find your favourite!) 16

The Basics > Food & Drink

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THE BASICS Health & Safety

HEALTH & SAFETY Emergency Contacts > In the unlikely event you experience any problems whilst travelling in Andalusia please do not hesitate to contact the following people. As first port of call contact Marius Ghisoiu on +40 733 966 727. If you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get through to Marius for whatever reason then get in touch with James Chisnall on +44746 8308 320. If all else fails, there is the Untravelled Paths office on +44207 101 4061. Crime > Andalusia is not a dangerous region when it comes to crime and personal safety. As violent crime against tourists is pretty much nonexistent aside from the odd pickpocket, you are highly unlikely to experience any problems during your stay here. That said, as with most other European countries, pickpockets and opportunist thieves do exist and tend to operate in more densely populated towns or in areas attracting tourist crowds. Applying basic common-sense rules should stand you in good stead when it comes to theft and petty crime so avoid flashing any valuable items, make use of cross-body strapped bags and keep a firm hold on your camera and wallet. Smoking > Smoking in public places is banned in Spain. Should you choose to smoke while youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in the country, we kindly ask you to respect the environment by disposing of cigarette butts in bins rather than throwing them just anywhere.

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The Environment > Please be respectful of the environment when you are visiting Andalusia. Pick up any rubbish you may have accumulated and keep the noise to a minimum. Medication & First Aid > Should you have any minor medical problems while you’re on your trip, head to a pharmacy or farmacia. The pharmacists here are well qualified to offer advice on any minor ailments from which you may be suffering and can even write prescriptions. As with the rest of Western Europe you’re unlikely to be troubled with any major, the most likely medical culprits being heat stroke and dehydration from too much sun exposure, or a tummy upset. However, to ensure you’re covered from all angles, we suggest considering packing a small medical kit with the following items, just in case: 1. Antibacterial hand gel or wipes 2. Antidiarrheal tablets, eg. Imodium 3. High factor sun cream 4. Antihistamines 5. Insect repellent 6. Painkillers and anti-inflammatories 7. Tissues 8. Personal mediation - if you take any medication, please also ensure you take a copy of your prescription

Toilets > Public toilets in Andalucia aren’t particularly easy to find but your best bet would be to use the loo in hotels, department stores like El Corte Ingles or fast-food restaurants and cafes. It is also advisable to carry some tissues around with you just in case you find yourself short especially when you’re heading out to busy tapas bars! Men should follow signs for hombres and ladies should look out for mujeres.

Water > The water is safe to drink throughout Spain however we always recommend sticking to bottled water which is widely available just in case - an upset tummy is never ideal!

The Basics > Health & Safety

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SEVILLE

SEE Seville Cathedral (26-27) Plaza de España (28-29) Metropol Parasol (28-29) Alcazar (30-31)

DO Flamenco Show (32-33) Arabic Baths (32-33) Tapas Tour (34-35)

EAT La Chalà (36-37) Mechela 36-37) Tapas Bars (38-39) La Brunilda (40-41) ConTenedor (40-41)

DRINK El Rinconcillo (42-43) The Second Room (42-43) Doña Maria Teraza (44-45) El Garlochí (46-47)

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SEVILLE Bursting with colour, passion and sunshine, it’s hard not to fall head over heels for Seville (we do time and time again!). Romans, Muslins, Jews and Christians have all made their mark over the centuries, infusing the city with a rich blend of multi-layered history and fascinating culture. You don’t need to look far to see what we mean – each street corner is adorned with fabulous Islamic architecture, the majestic Alcazar Palace oozes Moorish style, and of course you can’t miss the cathedral, which is the third largest in the world. But gob-smacking architecture is just the start. Selfproclaimed home of tapas, the city also boasts over 3,000 tapas bars where you can feast to your stomach’s content on traditional classics or fusion tapas with a modern twist. Then there’s fiery flamenco – an experience that you mustn’t miss at our favourite authentic show! Neither too sprawling nor too small, the city’s old town is perfect for exploring on foot, strolling through orange treelined plazas and the narrow cobbled streets of the Santa Cruz quarter towards the major sights. Those with a little more time might also want to cross the bridge into the vibrant Triana neighbourhood, famous for its flamenco, ceramic tiles, and local market.

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SEVILLE CATHEDRAL The third largest church in the world (sneaking in just behind St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, and Brazil’s Basilica of the National Shire of our Lady of Aparecida), it’s no wonder that Seville’s immense cathedral took 100 years to construct! Completed in 1502, the gothic cathedral’s most iconic feature is probably its soaring bell tower, la giralda, which served as a minaret during the 12th century for the great Almohad Mosque that used to stand there under Muslim rule.

SEE

Admire the architectural grandeur from the outside and the inside, check out the monumental tomb of Christopher Colombus, whose remains were brought here from Cuba in 1898 (although some say the bones belong to the explorer’s son who was buried with him!), then climb the 34 ramparts to the top of ‘la giralda’ for spectacular views across Seville. Our insider tip? Head to Plaza del Salvador first, and buy a combined ticket for San Salvador Church and Seville Cathedral. Not only is the ticket the same price as buying entrance for the cathedral on its own but it also allows you to skip the queues! Why not stop by Bar El Commercio to refuel with chocolate con churros before you wander down to the cathedral? Avenida de la Constitución; €9 per person; Open Tuesday to Saturday 11:00 - 17:00, Sunday 14:30 – 18:00

Seville > See > Seville Cathedral

PLAZA DE ESPAÑA Featured in blockbuster classics like Lawrence of Arabia, Star Wars and Game of Thrones, Seville’s show-stopping Plaza de España, located within the Maria Luisa Park no doubt looks familiar. But the ornate pavilion is more than just a film set and location for the city’s government offices. Built for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo, its unique design actually tells the history of Spain with beautiful tiled alcoves representing each province, colourful bridges symbolising its ancient kingdoms, and Renaissance and Moorish architecture showcasing its diverse cultural heritage.

SEE

METROPOL PARASOL Known affectionately by the locals as Las Setas (‘the mushrooms’), Seville’s modern monument boasts one of the best city viewpoints, even if its aesthetics aren’t to everyone’s taste! There’s an antiquarium at the bottom housing the ancient Roman remains unearthed when building began, as well as a traditional food market, but the real highlight has to be catching the lift to the top for a stroll along the undulating walkway where all of Seville’s landmarks stand at your feet. The €3 fee even gets you a free drink at a nearby bar! Plaza de la Encarnación; €3; Sun- Thurs 10:00 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 10:00 – 23:30

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ALCAZAR The Alcazar Palace is one of Seville’s most celebrated, and beautiful, sights that you can’t miss – being located just opposite the Cathedral means there’s no excuse not to! Starting life as a Moorish fort back in the 11th century, the Alcazar has evolved through the ages in both style and grandeur, and now serves as the oldest Royal Palace in Europe that is still in use to this day. But that’s not its only claims to fame! It also represents one of the best examples of mudéjar (Moorish & Christian) architecture on the Iberian Peninsula, and has even been used in the hugely popular TV series Game of Thrones as the setting for the serene Water Gardens of Dorne.

SEE

Spend a few hours admiring the dazzling rooms of the various palace buildings with their fountain-filled courtyard and lavish architecture then take a stroll through the manicured, palmfringed royal gardens. It’s a veritable oasis. Skip to the front of the queue by purchasing your tickets online (only 1€ extra), or go early in the morning to avoid the crowds. If your time is limited, you could avoid paying altogether by visiting during the final opening hour each day although we prefer having the option to linger. €9.50 per person; Open daily 09:30 - 17:00 Closed 25th December, 1st - 6th January and on Good Friday 30

Seville > See > Alcazar

FLAMENCO SHOW

Experience the passion, power and flair of flamenco at a soulstirring evening performance. Expect world-class dancers, enchanting singing, and the melodic strings of the guitar within the typical patio setting of a fabulous 15th century building. While there are multiple venues offering flamenco shows across Seville our choice offers a more intimate, authentic experience - no amplification or microphones are used, just the raw, natural quality of voice, guitar, and the stamping of heels. An hour of pure exhilaration! Must be booked and paid for in advance. Price: €18 per person Duration: 1 hour

ARABIC BATHS After a hard day of sightseeing, an afternoon unwinding in Aire de Sevilla’s sumptuous Arabic baths is just the ticket! Treat yourself to a good long soak in the hot, cold (and salty) candlelit pools or have a steam in the ancient hammam room. For optimal health benefits try jumping back and forth from super hot to freezing cold! There are 15 – 60 minute massages you can sign up to but we personally prefer just chilling out in the baths for a couple of hours. Must be booked and paid for in advance. Price: from €31 per person Duration: 2 hours approx. 32

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TAPAS TOUR The best way to explore Seville? Through your stomach, of course. Delve into the city’s culinary traditions on this incredible four-hour walking food tour where you’ll hunt down some of the best bites in town, get to grips with the tapas culture, and learn more about the overall history of Seville through three local neighborhoods.

Aside from traditional tapas and tipples served in truly authentic, family-run establishments, you’ll also pop into a local convent to try specialty cakes baked by the cloistered nuns, visit the market for a taste of the best ham in the world where you’ll meet an expert slicer, and explore some of the city’s best kept secrets from stunning hidden plazas to tiny offthe-beaten-track alleyways. From breakfast to dessert and everything in between, this tour is so much more than tasty tapas and is one of the best we’ve experienced. With 8 stops along the way, you’ll be full of food, knowledge and local insider tips by the end of it! Highly recommended. If you’re interested in signing up do let us know in advance as it needs booking and paying for in advance. Price: €75 per person Includes: 8 stops, all food and drink (enough for breakfast and lunch), local English-speaking guide, printed info sheet Duration: 4 hours approx. 34

Seville > Do > Tapas Tour

LA CHALA Fusion, wallet-friendly tapas served in a funky setting, La Chalá revamps traditional Spanish dishes with an exotic Latin American and Asian twist. The arepas (filled corn bread), Moroccan-inspired chicken pastry, queso ahumado (grilled smoked cheese with fruity sauce), and salteado iberio (stir-fried Iberian pork) are all divine! Be warned, it’s a tiny place that gets packed quickly so get there 10 minutes before opening time to bag yourself a table.

EAT

Plaza Puerta Real 6; Open Tues to Sat 13:00-16:30 / 21:00-00:00, Sun 13:00-16:30, Closed Mon

MECHELA Focusing on high-quality, carefully crafted and beautifully presented dishes, Mechela serves up modern versions of Analucian classics. All the dishes are delicious but hats off to the vegetable lasagna, crispy prawn served on ajo blanco soup and the decadent chocolate cake. The intimate, contemporary environment compliments the food perfectly but as there are only six tables we highly recommend booking over email in advance. Service can be on the slow side. Calle Bailen 34; Open Tues to Sun 13:45-15:45, Mon to Sat 20:30–23:45

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TAPAS BARS Make like the locals and go on a tapeo (a tapas bar crawl), ordering a couple of house-speciality tapas with a drink, eat standing at the bar, then move on to the next one... Here are our favourite traditional tapas bars (and one modern one) in Seville and exactly what to order when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re there. The first three are all in the Arenal neighbourhood - perfect for your own tapeo and none cross-over with the Tapas Tour either.

Casa Morales (Garcia de Vinuesa 11) One of Sevilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest wine bars, famous for their chorzio montaditos. Order with a dry fino sherry or Cruzcampo beer. Bodeguita Romero (Calle Harinas 10) A popular locally run bar dishing up top-notch pringa sandwiches (filled with tender pork stew), espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas); carrillada (stewed pork cheek), and homemade patatas alinadas. Casa Moreno (Calle Gamazo 7). Tiny abaceria (grocery storecum-bar) serving perfect snack-sized montaditos de cabrales con lomo and crisp, chilled manzanilla sherry. Eslava (Calle Gamazo 7). Tiny tapas bar boasts award-winning tapas. The order? cigarillo, huevo sobre bizcocho de boletus y vino caramelizado ; costilla de cerdo con miel de romero al horno, and sokoa for dessert

Seville > Eat > Tapas Bars

LA BRUNILDA Tiny but wildly popular, La Brunilda dishes up exceptional looking and tasting modern tapas without the hefty price tag. Don’t miss the duck confit, the grilled pork shoulder with sweet potatoes, and the seared scallops with butifarra (white sausage) and cauliflower pureé. This tapas joint doesn’t take bookings so aim to get there at least 10 minutes before opening (you may have to join a queue) and put your name on the list for a table if you can’t get in straight away.

EAT

Galera 5; Open Tues to Sat 13:00-16:00 / 20:30-23:30; Sun 13:00-16:00, Closed Mon

CONTENEDOR If you’re tired of tapas and just want an entire dish to yourself, conTenedor is the place to go. The restaurant’s ‘slow food’ concept means that the daily menu, scrawled on a blackboard, is always inspired by fresh produce bought daily from the market. One dish that never disappears from the menu however, is the arroz con pato (duck rice) - a must-order! We love the open-kitchen, laid-back atmosphere, and creative artwork. Good local wines, too. Booking recommended. Calle San Luis 50; Open Mon to Thurs 20:00-23:00; Fri to Sun 13:30-16:30 / 20:30-00:00

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EL RINCONCILLO Not a best-kept secret by any means, but there’s good reason for that. Founded in 1670, and still family-run, El Rinconcillo is the oldest bar in Seville, and indulging in a pre-dinner aperitif at the bar is a must. With dusty bottles lining the walls, heavy hams dangling from the ceiling, and waistcoated waiters that scrawl your bill on the bar top in chalk, you’ll feel as though you’ve walked into an ancient tavern. Make like the other sevillanos and order a glass of dry manzanilla sherry with a tapa of melt-in-themouth jamon iberico or some olives, then lean up against the bar and soak up the atmosphere! Calle Gerona 40; Open daily 13:00 - 01:30

THE SECOND ROOM

DRINK

Serving smart cocktails in the shadow of Seville’s Cathedral and towering Giralda, this swanky little bar is great for a pre-dinner tipple. Prop yourself up on a high stool at the modern bar, and snack on some popcorn while you wait for the maestro cocteleros to mix you up a delicious drink from the cocktail menu! If what you’re looking for isn’t on the list, don’t despair; they’ll often be able to whip up any concoction you fancy. Just ask. Calle de Placentines 19; Open daily 15:00-02:00 (until 03:00 on Fri) 42

Seville > Drink > El Rinconcillio / The Second Room

TERRAZA DOÑA MARIA The rooftop bar at the Doña Maria Hotel was the first of its kind in Seville and may well still be the best of the bunch. Its location right opposite the cathedral makes it the perfect place to hang out in the evenings with a tasty cocktail in hand (the gin and tonics are fabulous!). Our top tip? Check what time the sun is due to set, and head up to the terraza in good time to watch the sun go down - the views over the cathedral and city skyline as night kicks in and the lights go on are magical. Service is friendly and efficient, and prices reasonable.

DRINK

Calle Don Remondo 19; Open Mon to Sun 13:00 - 01:30

BAR GARLOCHÍ Eccentric, surreal and utterly one of a kind, we challenge you to stumble across a quirkier watering hole than Bar Garlochí! Filled from floor to ceiling with religious paraphernalia, chock full of more weeping virgins than you can wave a crucifix at, and scented with frankincense, you’d be forgiven for believing you’ve fallen into Semana Santa (Holy Week). Try the house specilaity, ‘sangria de cristo’ (nearly the blood of Christ), or an 'agua de Sevilla' cocktail with pineapple juice, cava, whisky, and Cointreau. Service is a bit dodgy but this is certainly an experience you’ll never forget. Go later in the evening. Calle de los Boteros 26; Open daily 21:00-03:00, Sun till 12:00

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SIERRA DE ANDUJAR

SEE Sierra de Andujar Nature Reserve (48-49) Iberian Lynx (50-53)

DO Lynx Excursion (54-55) Wildlife Drive (56-57)

EAT Packed Lunch (58-59) Hot Supper (58-59)

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SIERRA DE ANDUJAR NATURE RESERVE Part of the vast Sierra Morena in the heart of Andalucia, the Sierra de Andujar Nature Reserve encompasses over 74,000 hectares of rolling Mediterranean forest, rocky hills and scrubland. Its dense woodland and thick vegetation provides shelter for an expansive variety of flora and fauna as well as a host of endangered species including the wolf, black vulture, imperial eagle and of course the elusive lynx amongst them. In fact, this region is one of two of Spainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s last refuges for the rare Iberian Lynx, which has become critically endangered over the years due to the sharp decline in rabbits that represent the main source of food for the lynx. This, along with forest fires and urban development means that only around 80 adults now inhabit the area, making up approximately 80% of the entire population.

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IBERIAN LYNX Common Names Iberian Lynx, Pardel Lynx, Spanish Lynx Scientific Name Lynx pardinus Status Endangered Population 404 Physical Description The Iberian lynx is heavily spotted and weighs about half as much as the Eurasian species, with long legs and a very short tail with a black tip. Its coat is tawny with dark spots and it bears a characteristic "beard" around its face and prominent black ear tufts. Size Weight: 10-13kg Height: 88-100cm Breeding Female lynxes generally give birth between March and April. The average litter size is 3, with rarely more than 2 young surviving weaning. Kittens leave the den between 8 and 23 months. Very high rates of mortality during dispersal have been detected. Diet The Iberian lynx mostly depends on wild rabbits to feed, but it will also eat ducks, young deer and partridges if rabbit 50

Sierra de Andujar > See > Iberian Lynx

densities are low. While an adult lynx needs about one rabbit a day, a mother raising her young needs to catch about 3. Population & Distribution The Iberian Lynx declined steadily during the 20th century, and at the beginning of the 2000s only two isolated breeding populations remained in the world, located in southern Spain, and totaling about 100 adult animals, with only 25 breeding females. After joint efforts of the Spanish national and regional administrations, different NGOs, and the European Union, the species has recovered from the brink of extinction with the latest 2015 census showing 404 adult lynxes.

SEE

Threats The Iberian lynx has been brought to the brink of extinction because of a combination of threats: • Decreasing food base of rabbits fur to epidemics like myxamatosis • Car hits – 22 animals died under car wheels in 2014 • Habitat loss & degradation due to roads, dams, railways and other human activities • Illegal hunting

(Information taken from WWF)

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LYNX EXCURSION This is what you’re here for – a glimpse of the rarest cat in the world, the Iberian Lynx. Spotting lynx can be something of a challenge but sightings over the winter period are high in the Sierra de Andujar nature reserve so with some patience, a little luck and the expert help of our wildlife specialists you have every possibility of seeing this majestic creature.

The full day excursion starts around sunrise when you’ll head out into the Nature Reserve with a local expert, trying your luck at various watering holes and lynx-spotting hotspots for a sighting of the elusive cat. As is always the case the nature, nothing is guaranteed but there’s plenty of wildlife to be observed aside from lynx including rare endemic birds of prey like the Spanish imperial eagle and black vulture, as well as other mammals like wild boar and the rock-climbing Spanish ibex. The duration of the excursion is relatively flexible and depending on what you see could last anywhere up to 10 hours. As much of this time will be spent standing still in exposed areas, it is important to ensure that you’re kitted out with the appropriate gear – warm layers, hat, gloves, scarf, and a windproof jacket are recommended. It’s always better to be over-prepared when it comes to the cold! A packed lunch in available in lieu of a midday meal so please do let us know if you’d like one. 54

Sierra de Andujar > Do > Iberian Lynx

WILDLIFE DRIVE If you’ve not been fortunate enough to spot lynx during your full day excursion through the Sierra de Andujar Nature Reserve or you’re simply keen to squeeze in some time among all things wild and wonderful then you might be interested in signing up for an additional wildlife drive. Accompanied by a local wildlife expert, you’ll head into the Reserve once again to see what you can spot for a few hours in the morning before departing for Cordoba. Observe golden eagles or griffon vultures gliding effortlessly on the thermals, look out for golden orioles, great spotted cuckoos, and azure-winged magpies in the woods, and you might also cross paths with playful otters by the river, red and fallow deer, and possibly even the occasional wild boar! Of course, while we cannot guarantee sightings of the lynx, spending more time in the area on a wildlife drive certainly increases your chances. Payment is taken in local currency on arrival but do let us know in advance if you’re interested. Price: €50 per person Duration: 4 hours approx.

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PACKED LUNCH To make the most of your time and to increase your chances of spotting the Iberian Lynx your excursion will keep you in the nature reserve for most of the day. Keep yourself fed and watered on-the-go with a packed lunch prepared by husband and wife team, Mercedes and Roland from Villa Matilde. There are no restaurants in the Sierra de Andujar nature reserve so to save time driving to and from the area we highly recommend opting in for a packed lunch. However, please let us know in advance along with any dietary requirements or allergies you might have. Payment is taken on arrival in local currency. Price: €8 per person

HOT SUPPER

EAT

After a full day combing the Sierra de Andujar for lynx and other wildlife, you’ll no doubt be looking forward to a hot supper in the evening. At Villa Matilde, Roland prepares a heart-warming three-course meal using organic vegetables from the garden, which we encourage you to sign up for. Dinner needs to be booked in advance and we’ll also need to know if you have any specific dietary requirements or allergies. Payment is taken on arrival in local currency. Those staying elsewhere will have access to an on-site restaurant. Price: €15.60 per person 58

Sierra de Andujar > Eat > Packed Lunch / Hot Supper

SEE Historic Quarter (64-65) Roman Bridge (64-65)

CORDOBA

Mezquita Visit (66-67)

EAT La Regadera (68-69) Bodegas Mezquita (68-69)

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CORDOBA This thousand-year old city seamlessly blends both tradition and modernity with its living legacy of ancient cultures, architectural delights, and lively atmosphere. Unlikely as it now seems, Cordoba was actually one of the most important capital cities in Europe, being both the capital of Hispania Ulterior under the Romania Empire, as well as the capital of the Islamic Umayyad Caliphate. Here, Jews, Muslims and Christians lived side by side in harmony creating a veritable melting pot of cultures and religions that can still be witnessed in modern day through the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s remarkable architecture and monuments. Prime example is the Mezquita, which showcases a stunning blend of styles in a building of extreme beauty. Aside from its rich architectural offerings, Cordoba also represents one of the best examples of Andalusian tradition, where flamenco and bullfighting are a part of daily life. Amble around the historic quarter, delve into the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich history by exploring the Mezquita, and absorb the lively atmosphere with some Andalusian food in a bright restaurant.

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HISTORIC QUARTER Cordobaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charming Historic Quarter is compact enough to explore in a short period of time, its tangle of cobbled streets, white-washed houses, and courtyards branching out like capillaries from the mesmerising Mezquita. Get a snap of the picture-perfect bell tower sandwiched neatly between the houses at the end of Calleja de las Flores (just look behind you!), then wander a little further to bypass the tourist shops in favour of peaceful plazas and quaint, nearly deserted alleyways. Many of the houses conceal hidden patios, which come into bloom during the springtime as the city plays host to the famous Festival of Patios where locals compete for the best flower-decked courtyard in town. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re keen to peek into the award-winning patios despite it being off-season, buy a ticket for the Ruta de Patios in the Alcazar Viejo district.

SEE

ROMAN BRIDGE Make sure you cross the Roman Bridge (Puente Romano) over the shallow Guadalquivir River at least once during your visit to Cordoba. Built by the Romans, as its name suggests, the entrance to the bridge is marked by a triumphal arch and an adjacent single-column monument, crossing over to an old fortified gate. Television buffs will also probably recognize the bridge from featured in Game of Thrones.

Cordoba > See > Historic Quarter / Roman Bridge

MEZQUITA VISIT It is a cathedral or is it a mosque? With ornate Moorish-style arches and beautifully detailed doorways standing cheek-byjowl with Christian crosses and mahogany pulpits, you’d be forgiven for any confusion. Having swapped between Christian and Muslim rules (and back again) over the centuries, Cordoba’s enchanting Mezquita is a truly unique hybrid unlike anywhere else in the world. However, if we’re going to be specific, it started life as a Christian church until 785 when Moorish kings transformed it into a giant mosque. 1523 saw the addition of the 16th century cathedral, which, somewhat bemusingly, was plonked right in the middle of the mosque, giving us the stunning marriage of Roman, Islamic, and Gothic architectural splendor that we have today. Wandering through each section of the Mezquita truly feels as though you’ve stepped into a different era, a different culture. From the orange tree-lined plaza, and the red-and-white arches that repeat endlessly in the entrance, to the opulent Renaissance cathedral nave, and the Islamic mihrab (prayer niche) decorated with Byzantine mosaics of gold, rust red, and turquoise, gazing up at the exquisite ceilings, archways and pillars is guaranteed to both enchant you, and give you a good old crick in the neck! Worth every ache, we’re sure you’ll agree. A visit to the Mezquita is included in the trip so we’ll take care of getting your tickets, leaving you free to wander.

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LA REGADERA This charming little restaurant with its bright, modern décor and inventive cuisine is a stone’s throw from Cordoba’s famous Mezquita along the river, making it the ideal spot for lunch! Breathing new life into Andalucian classics, La Regadera uses only the freshest local ingredients to prepare beautifully presented dishes with an innovative twist. The meat dishes are particularly tasty and make sure you leave enough space for dessert - their imaginative lemon dessert is fabulous! Our favourite modern eatery in Cordoba. Ronda Isasa 10; Open Mon to Sun 13:00 – 16:00

BODEGAS MEZQUITA

EAT

If you’re looking for something more traditional, try this classic Córdoban bar, which offers a good selection of local tapas including slow-braised oxtail, salmorejo. Grab a pew by the bar, tuck into some tasty tapas for lunch and absorb a bit of the local history gazing at the old black and white photographs that adorn the whitewashed walls. A second branch located round the corner at Calle Corregidor Luis de Cerda 73 even has its own in-house delicatessen if that takes your fancy. Calle Cespedes 12; Open daily 12:30 - 00:00 68

Cordoba > Eat > La Regadera / Bodegas Mezquita

LANGUAGE

SPANISH Learn just a handful of Spanish words and phrases and you’ll transform your experience! While English is spoken more and more often in Andalucia, a little Spanish goes a long way especially in more off-the-beaten-track places like traditional tapas bars. Don’t worry about practicing on the locals either; the Spanish tend to be friendly and patient with foreigners so go ahead and whip out an everyday greeting or try to order your drinks in the local lingo. In fact, Spanish and English share varients of approximately one third of their words (via Latin) so you’ll probably understand more words than you think despite pronunciation being different. No idea where to start? Fear not, help is at hand. We’ve collated a collection of the most useful Spanish words and phrases. And even if you don’t learn a single word or phrase knowing how to pronounce the language can get you a long way.

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PRONOUNCIATION Each vowel in Spanish is pronounced clearly and distinctly. Some important vowel sounds to remember in Spanish are: a as in father, e as in day, i as in police, o as in no, and u as in rule. Diphthongs include ai or ay as in bide, ei or ey as in day, io or yo as in yoga, ue as in west, uo as in woe, and ui as in week. Also, an accent over a vowel indicates stress, as in información, or is simply used to distinguish two identical words, as in si (if) and sí (yes). Many consonants sounds are similar to English, but keep in mind some of the exceptions: gü as in Gwen, ll as in yes or jar, ñ as in onion, v as in boy, and silent h. D between vowels is pronounced as in thin. The consonant r at the beginning of a word or the double rr within a word is a trilled sound made with the tongue against the ridge behind the upper teeth. A single r within a Spanish word sounds a lot like dd in udder. While traveling you'll notice local differences in pronunciation. For example, c (before i and e) and z are pronounced as soup in Latin American, but as think in Spain. However, here in Andalucia, people use both. Here’s a basic guide to essential Spanish words and phrases… and, of course, you’ll now be able to pronounce them!

The Rest > Language > Pronunciation

NUMBERS

One Two Three Four Five Six Seven Eight Nine Ten

Uno Dos Tres Cuatro Cinco Seis Siete Ocho Nueve Diez

IMPORTANT SIGNS Men Women Entrance Exit Push Pull Open Closed Right Left Forbidden No Smoking

Hombres Mujeres Entrada Salida Empuje Tire Abierto Cerrado Derecha Izquierda Prohibido No fumar

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GREETINGS Good morning

Buenos días

Good evening

Good night

Hello

Translates to ‘good day’ so can be used right up until the afternoon Buenas tardes Use in the late afternoon and evening Buenas noches Only used to say goodbye, it is usually said before parting ways after 10pm, or before going to sleep. Hello An informal greeting.

How are you?

¿Cómo estás?

This is the informal version. If you’d like to be more polite, use ‘¿Cómo está usted?’ instead

Fine, thank you.

Goodbye

Muy bien, gracias

Adiós

You could also say ‘hasta luego’ which means “until later.”

The Rest > Language > Pronunciation

WORDS & PHRASES Yes No Please Thank you (very much) You’re welcome What is your name? My name is…

Sí No Por favor (Muchas) gracias De nada ¿Cómo te llamas? Me llamo...

Excuse me I don’t speak Spanish Do you speak English? I don’t understand

Disculpe No hablo español ¿Hablas inglés? No entiendo

I’m sorry What time is it?

Lo siento ¿Qué hora es?

How much is it? Where is the bathroom? A table for two A draft beer

¿Cuánto cuesta? ¿Dónde está el baño? Una mesa para dos Una cervecita

The menu The bill

La carta La nota

A glass of red/white wine

Una copa de vino tinto/blanco

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TIPS & TRICKS

TIPS & TRICKS • Wrap up – being over prepared as far as clothing goes is a good idea for lynx spotting as you may be standing outside in exposed, chilly areas for prolonged periods! • Skip the paella and sangria - while it’s considered a Spanish speciality, it’s only worth having in the home of paella, Valencia. Likewise, sangria is only for special occasions and home gatherings. Try tinto de verano instead - red wine missed with lemonade and served with ice! • Eat standing - a busy bar is a good bar but most people eat standing so nudge yourself to the bar and claim a corner. • Skip the queues in Seville - you can buy tickets online for the Alcazar for 1€ extra that will allow you to skip the queues. Walk past the lines of people at the Cathedral by buying a combined ticket for the Cathedral and El Salvador Church (for the price of just the Cathedral) at Plaza de Salvador! • Places will charge for bread and cutlery - this is often added to the bill and ranges between 1 and 2 euros per table. If you don’t want bread brought to the table make sure you state ‘sin pan por favor’

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• Carry cash and photo ID with you for payment - even if they say otherwise many small bars and shops won’t accept credit cards. Be prepared with cash in small denominations and remember that if you do pay by card you have to show photo ID by law. While you won’t always be asked it’s good to be prepared! • Eat when the locals eat - most restaurants won’t open until 8.30pm at the earliest and locals can turn up for dinner at 10.30pm or even 11pm especially at the weekends! Kitchens for lunch open between 12.30pm and 1.30pm remaining open until 4pm or later! • Wear comfortable walking shoes - the historic centres of Seville and Cordoba are mostly pedestrian only zone so you’ll no doubt be doing a lot of exploring through the cobblestone streets on foot. Comfortable shoes are a must! • Don’t order lots of tapas in one go - the best way to enjoy tapas is to order little by little, pairing each tapa with a drink. This mean you don’t ever order and you can enjoy everything while it’s still hot! • Bring your own toilet paper! Seville’s best tapas bars get busy and the bathrooms often lack toilet paper– especially in the ladies rooms. Go prepared with a pack of tissues to be safe.

The Rest > Tips & Tricks

DID YOU KNOW?

DID YOU KNOW? • It is believed that if the Iberian Lynx were to become extinct, it would be the first feline species to die out since the prehistoric era when the sabre-toothed tiger died out some 10,000 years ago • There are 25,000 orange trees in Seville – the city with the most orange trees in the world. Originally introduced by the Moors, the Seville orange tree produces a fruit that is so bitter that the vast majority of them are shipped over to England for marmalade-making! • The population of wild Iberian Lynx has declined by over 80% in the last 20 years making it the second most endangered species in the world behind the Amur Leopard. However, in 2015 it was reclassified from ‘critically endangered’ to ‘endangered’ following conservation efforts. There is hope yet! • Next time you walk into a tapas bar and notice napkins strewn all over the floor don’t assume that the locals are rude or the staff lazy. In fact, it is a custom here to drop your balled-up paper napkin on the floor as a sign to show you’ve enjoyed your drink or tapa! • Christopher Colombus (or a part of him at least) is buried in Seville’s gothic Cathedral

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• Film producers love Andalucia – In Seville, the Plaza de Espana was featured in Star Wars and Lawrence of Arabia; Casa de Pilatos was a setting in Kingdom of Heaven featuring Orlando Bloom, and the Alcazar’s stunning courtyard was used in Game of Thrones who also shot scenes at the Roman Bridge in Cordoba • Ajo blanco, a cold soup made with blanched almonds and topped with chopped grapes, was what the locals used to eat before tomatoes were brought over to Europe by the Spanish conquistadors from America. Gazpacho didn’t exist before then! • At one time, Cordoba was the largest city in world counting approximately one million residents. Although that has certainly changed in modern times, the Mezquita still retains the title as the largest mosque (and temple) in the world • Iberian acorn-fed ham (jamon Iberico de Bellota) from the Andalucian province of Huelva is thought to be the best in the world. The reason it is so tasty (and expensive!) is because the pigs are free-roaming and fed on a diet of acorns. Buying a leg of this ham could easily set you back thousands of pounds! • If you get goosebumps watching the flamenco performance, you'll be experiencing what's known as 'el Duende' declared an intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO 82

The Rest > Did You Know?

WITH THANKS

WITH THANKS We hope this booklet has been useful to you and we’d love to know what you think. So if you’ve noticed any mistakes, or inconsistencies then please do get in touch and let us know. We’re always looking for feedback too so if you think something’s been misleading or you happen to stumble upon a gem of a restaurant, a great little tapas bar or a buzzing bar that you think deserves a mention then please do fill us in. We’re sure there are plenty of hidden delights we have yet to discover! Oh, and we also accept positive comments. Enjoy your trip! The Untravelled Paths Team KEEP IN TOUCH: Untravelled Paths 24 Ferncroft Avenue London NW3 7PH www.untravelledpaths.com info@untravelledpaths.com 0207 101 4061 Facebook: /UntravelledPaths Twitter: @untravpaths

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TRIP DISCOUNTS

TRIP DISCOUNTS Just to say thank you for travelling with us, we’re happy to offer you a 10% discount on any other Untravelled Paths experience within 18 months of your trip. Simply let us know during the booking process that you’re a UTP super client but please note that this discount is not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Take a look online for some inspiration on the sorts of experience we have in our collection and if you enjoyed the Iberian Lynx Experience we reckon you’d love...

THE BROWN BEAR EXPERIENCE Track wild bears in Romania’s vast Carpathian Mountains and visit rescued bears at a famous sanctuary

THE DANUBE DELTA EXPERIENCE Witness Europe’s last natural paradise and largest wetland – the Danube Delta in the Romania

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office: 020 7101 4061 Â&#x2014; e-mail: info@untravelledpaths.com web: untravelledpaths.com