The
RURAL ROMANIA EXPERIENCE
Booklet
THE RURAL ROMANIA EXPERIENCE BOOKLET
A warm welcome to the Untravelled Paths Rural Romania Experience Booklet on behalf of all the team! We do hope you’re excited about your upcoming escape to the rural Romanian countryside in Maramures, and we’re sure you’ll find the material in this pack both useful and informative in preparation of your trip as well as during your visit with us. If you’ve not yet touched down on Romanian soil, you’ll probably want to refer to the Basics section of the guide as this will brief you on the essentials for visiting, including changing money, what sort of weather to expect and insider tips and hints. For those that have already joined us off the beaten track, you’ll find recommendations specific to each destination on your trip, including information about what to see, where to eat and drink. We’ve also included a section on useful Romanian words and phrases to bridge that language barrier. Travel safe and travel fun! The UTP Team
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THE BASICS Fast Facts (4-5) Cash & Currency (6-9) Weather & Climate (10-11) Food & Drink (12-15) Health & Safety (16-19)
CONTENTS
THE GUIDE Cluj (20-33) Turda Salt Mine (34-35) Maramures (36-67)
THE REST Language (68-73) Tips & Tricks (74-76) Did You Know? (78-81) With Thanks (82-83) Trip Discounts (84-85)
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FAST FACTS
FAST FACTS Country: Capital: Time Difference: Area: Population:
Romania Bucharest GMT +2 hours 92,043 sq. miles th (12 largest country in Europe) 19,651,000
Language: Romanian Religion: Christian Orthodox (81%) Ethnicity: Romanian 84%, Hungarian 6.1%, Gypsy 3.1% German 0.2%, Ukrainian 0.2% Dialling Code: Emergency Number: Electricity:
+40 112 (no code required) 220 volts; a standard continental adapter
Currency:
Leu (RON) (plural lei) ÂŁ1 = between 5 to 6 lei
Exchange Rate:
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THE BASICS Cash & Currency
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CASH & CURRENCY Romanian Currency > Although Romania is a member of the European Union, it does not use the euro (€), but has its own currency - the RON / Leu. The official currency is most commonly referred to as the plural ‘lei’ although some banks and exchange offices list it as the RON. One leu divides into 100 bani with banknotes coming in various demoninations normally 1 leu, 5 lei, 10 lei, 50 lei and 100 lei and less commonly, 200 and 500 lei notes. Coins come in 50 bani and 10 bani pieces, which can be useful for small tips or donations. Currency Exchange > Lei can be difficult to get hold of outside Romania but fear not there are a few options for available. 1. Get it locally: The easiest option is to head to a cash machine once you’ve checked into your hotel in Cluj to withdraw funds. There are plenty of ATMs around so it’s quick and convenient to get hold of your holiday cash just take note of the advice below. 2. Get it at home: If you’re absolutely set on getting your Romanian money organised before you travel, the Bureau de Change in M&S is, strangely, one of the only places that dispenses the local currency. 3. Get it online: You can also purchase currency online and collect it from your local post office or even have it delivered straight to your door. Ordering currency online with the Post Office is commission free and available for next day delivery. Obviously the more you buy the better rate you’ll receive. However you choose to get hold of your spending money, just make sure you either spend or convert your RON before you leave Romania as you’ll have difficulty changing it once you’ve left. www.untravelledpaths.com
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ATMs (Bancomat) > Withdrawing funds from a local cash machine is simple and convenient, and it’s how we choose to get hold of our cash when we’re in the country. There are a few things to be aware of though. During the withdrawal you’ll be offered two exchange rates, one from the local bank and another from your UK bank. Make sure you opt to take you UK bank’s exchange rate as it will be substantially better value. Please also note that most cash machines charge approximately £1.50 per withdrawal so use them sparingly. If you’re keen to avoid being charged, a new bank in London called Metro Bank offers accounts and cards that are free to use abroad both for cash withdrawals at ATMs and when paying on card machines. Avoid using the cash machines at the airport, instead wait until you’re in the centre of Cluj. ATMs also have a habit of spitting out your cash first and your card second (unlike cash machines in the UK) so wait around until you have your card safely back in your hands before pocketing your cash and walking off! Credit/Debit Cards > Most major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard) are accepted throughout Romania’s main towns and cities. While you should have no problem using your card to pay for drinks or dinner in major towns and cities using your PIN number, some establishments accept cash only so it’s worth checking before you get settled in. It is also a good idea to carry some cash with you for smaller purchases and activities. It is always advisable to inform your bank that you’re travelling abroad in order to avoid the frustration of having your card blocked. Money in Maramures > It is best to have cash on you during your time in Maramures – some of the more rural villages don’t even exchange is currency but pay for things by trading goods. We recommend taking enough 08
The Basics > Cash & Currency
cash to last you when you’re in Cluj. Do speak to your guide for more advice and guidelines. Tipping > Tipping is not obligatory in Romania although rounding up taxi fares and adding 10% in restaurants is polite and common practice. If the service has been poor please don’t feel obligated to leave a tip. Budget > In order to give you some direction on how much spending money to budget for your trip to Romania, we thought it would be a good idea to offer some guidelines in terms of costs. As a general rule, you’ll be able to have a good lunch for around £8 a head and will pay around £12 a head for a nice evening meal in places like Cluj. Naturally, the type of establishment you choose to eat in and what you order will dictate the cost of your meals. Be aware that ordering imported wines can cause your bill to sky-rocket so drinking local wines is advisable. Meals in Maramures cost around £8. We reckon around £30 for lunch, dinner and drinks for two people is plenty per day. Please note that these are rough estimates and you can always choose to spend more or less depending on your budget and preferences. General Costs > The prices below for general items and sundries should give you a better idea of costs in Romania. Please note these are averages. Bottle of Water: 40p Pint of Beer: £1 - £1.50 Pack of Cigarettes: £2.50 One-Way Train Ticket: 30p MacDonald’s Big Mac: £2.30 Cinema Ticket: £3.40 www.untravelledpaths.com
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THE BASICS Weather & Climate
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WEATHER & CLIMATE Romania’s Climate > With increasingly long summers and winters, the climate in Romania is rather extreme and plays host to some scorching months as well as a period of severe cold and snow. June, July and August are the hottest months of the year sometimes hitting up to 40 degrees. Average temperatures, however, range from a very pleasant 24 to 30 degrees in the summer but don’t forget the sun cream. That said, it’s not unusual for the weather to change quite drastically, particularly in the mountains so it’s a good idea to pack layers just in case. Weather > May & June: The weather in spring and early summer here in Northern Romania is lovely and pleasant as the intense heat of the summer is yet to arrive and the meadows and rolling hills burst to life with colourful wildflowers carpeting the pastures. While May can bring a fair amount of rain, June tends to be drier and warmer with the chance of the odd thunderstorm here and there. July & August: In the full swing of summer, visiting Maramures and Cluj in July and August means long hot sunny days and blue skies with little chance of rain. While temperatures can soar to around 40 degrees, it tends to be a little cooler in the mountains so you’ll be able to enjoy the great outdoors either hiking or getting involved with village activities. September: September brings with it slightly fresher temperatures and a certain sense of tranquillity as the rush to get the hay in from the fields is usually over by this point. You’ll still have warm and very pleasant days with cooler evenings and visits to the wooden churches and the Merry Cemetery are a lot more enjoyable. www.untravelledpaths.com
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THE BASICS Food & Drink
FOOD & DRINK Romanian Cuisine > As with its multi-cultural history, Romania’s cuisine has been heavily influenced by its Balkan neighbours and previous occupiers featuring a fusion of Hungarian, Germanic, Turkish and Slavic dishes including cabbage rolls (sarmale), stews (tochitura), and moonshine (tuica) that’ll put hairs on your chest! Food tends to be heavy but comforting with a strong emphasis on meat (mainly pork, chicken and lamb), and polenta (mamaliga) or potatoes (cartofi) but with the welcome addition of an abundance of vegetables either in salad form or soaked in vinegar for a sharp kick. Smoked meats and sausages are a national favourite, and Romanians love their sour cream (smantana) and pungent garlic based sauces, so you’ll have no problem fending off any unwanted vampires! Romanian meals typically kick off with a bowl of ciorba, soup soured with lemon juice or vinegar that comes in plenty of varieties including ciorba de burta (tripe soup) served with a hot pepper to nibble on. Must Try Food & Drink > Sarmale (Romanian’s national dish consisting of pickled cabbage leaves stuffed with mince and rice, usually served with a good dollop of sour cream) Mici (little sausage-shaped meatballs dipped in sweet mustard); Mamaliga (a cornmeal mush served as a side dish and often referred to as ‘polenta’ on menus); Tochitura (pork stew in a rich tomato or wine sauce served with polenta, sour cream, and a fried egg on top for good measure); Ciorba (staple sour soup that comes in a number of varieties); Salata de vinete (smoked, mashed up aubergine); Zacusca (a thick vegetable sauce made from aubergines, red peppers, and onions that is spread generously on a slice of
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bread); Papanasi (deep-fried doughnuts filled with jam or cottage cheese); Covrigi (the Romanian version of a pretzel typically sprinkled with poppy or sesame seeds); Hornica (the local firewater made from plums). Sweet Treats > Like the rest of the Balkans, Romanians like their cakes and desserts tooth-achingly sweet. Papanasi - fried doughnuts topped with sweetened cheese, jam and cream – are the country’s national treasure, and crepes (clatite) are a firm favourite dripping with chocolate, jam and fruits. You’ll see gogosi sold all over the place with street windows dedicated specifically to dolling out these donught-like snacks dusted with sugar or stuffed with fruit. During the festive season, cozonac (sweet bread jeweled with dried fruits and walnuts) and kurtoskalacs (cylinder of dough baked over a spit and coated with cinnamon sugar, often known as chimney cake) take centre stage so make sure you get a fix if you’re lucky enough to be visiting at that time. Maramures Specialities > It is a Maramures custom to welcome guests with homemade breads and a small glass of horinca - a traditional double-distilled local plum or other fruit brandy. Other local specialties include smoked sausages, bacon and fresh ewe's milk cheese. There’s also a very tasty dish called balmos, which is oven baked and mixed with ewe's milk cheese or cheese fermented in special wooden or clay pots and served alongside warm polenta. At Easter time For Easter, locals make pasca (a sweet cheese cream cake), knotshaped bread, pies, and braised lamb, which are brought to the local churches to be blessed before the traditional Easter lunch. On Christmas night and on New Year's Eve, all the members of the family must eat a slice of pork jelly called piftie. 14
The Basics > Food & Drink
Wine > With a long history of winemaking dating back over 4,000 years and the ideal Mediterranean climate and soil, Romania is one of the biggest producers of wine in Europe. From dry, sparkling whites to rich, aromatic reds, a wide variety of wines is produced here. The most popular domestic grapes include feteasca alba (semi-dry and balanced white) and feteasca neagra (semi-sweet, medium bodied, and light red). For top notch wines, look out for bottles originating from the Tarnave plateau (white), Cotnari (white), Dealu (red), Murfatlar, and Odobesti.
Firewater > Outranking wine and beer, the most popular and traditional tipple amongst locals is hornica - a type of plum brandy. Plums, and even apples or pears, are aged in mulberry tree barrels then double distilled to produce a seriously fiery liquor that Romanians knock back with startling ease. If you want a real challenge, down a shot of hornica without reacting! The most potent batches are home brewed, colourless, and stored in unassuming plastic bottles that could easily be mistaken for water so make sure you sniff the liquid before you take a large swig! You won’t make that mistake twice!
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THE BASICS Health & Safety
HEALTH & SAFETY Emergency Contacts > In the unlikely event you experience any problems whilst travelling in Romania with Untravelled Paths please contact Marius Ghisoiu on +40733 966 727. He is a real hero so don’t hesitate to contact him should there be a problem no matter how big or small. On arrival, you will be provided with a business card containing all the relevant contact details for both Cristina and your bi-lingual guide, should you need them. Alternatively, you can call the Untravelled Paths office on +44207 101 4061. Crime > Romania is not a dangerous country when it comes to crime and personal safety. As violent crime tourists is pretty much non-existent, you’re highly unlikely to experience any problems during your stay here. However, applying basic common-sense rules should be sufficient in preventing instances of petty crime so avoid flashing any valuable items, and keep an eye on your camera, phone and wallet. Water > Tap water is safe to drink practically everywhere, but most people stick to bottled water to be on the safe side. We would highly recommend drinking bottled or filtered water during your stay in Transylvania. Smoking > Smoking in public places is officially prohibited in Romania. Having only recently been introduced (March 2016), the ban is very much a new and unfamiliar development for the locals, the vast majority of which are heavy smokers. Should you choose to smoke in Maramures,
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we kindly ask you to respect the environment by disposing of cigarette butts in bins rather than throwing them just anywhere.
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Medication & First Aid > To ensure you’re covered from all angles, we suggest considering packing a small medical kit with the following items, just in case: • Antibacterial hand gel • Antidiarrheal tablets, eg. Imodium • High factor sun cream • Antihistamines • Insect repellent • Painkillers and anti-inflammatories • Tissues • Personal mediation
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Romanians are friendly and open and foreigners are usually made very welcome. Chatting with visitors is very common for Romanians and they will find a way to communicate with you even if they cannot speak your language. Older people particularly appreciate old-fashioned politeness. It is respectful to use Mrs. or Mr. when using the name of a person that you just meet. Handshaking is the most common form of greeting from man to man but when a Romanian man is introduced to a woman, he is likely to kiss her hand avoiding the eyes. If your Romanian host offers you something to eat or drink and you decline, it will often be taken to mean that you are just being polite and do not want to accept. If you really don’t want something, refuse politely but firmly.
Toilets > Public toilets in Romania aren’t particularly easy to find but your best bet would be to use the loo in hotels, department stores or fast-food restaurants. It is also advisable to carry some tissues around with you just in case you find yourself short! In case of any confusion, look for femei for women or barbate for men. The Environment > Please be respectful of the environment when you are visiting the rural countryside of Maramures. Pick up any rubbish you may have accumulated and keep the noise to a minimum. Customs & Etiquette > Not entirely related to health and safety unless you happen to overly offend a bunch of Romanians and it all goes pear-shaped! Anyway, we thought it would be useful to give you some information on the sort of customs and etiquette practiced in Romania. 18
The Basics > Health & Safety
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CLUJ
SEE Piata Unirii (24-25) St. Michael’s Church (24-25)
DO Cluj Walking Tour (26-27)
EAT Zama (28-29) Bujole (28-29) Casa Boema (30-31) Vin & Cocotte (30-31)
DRINK Yolka Bar (32-33) Joben Bistro (32-33)
VISIT Turda Salt Mine (34-35)
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CLUJ Situated in the heart of legend-ridden Transylvania, ClujNapoca (Cluj for short), is the region’s unofficial capital. Whilst not as striking as its Transylvanian counterparts among the likes of medieval Brasov and Sighisoara, the city is infectiously charming in its own right a cultural metropolis buzzing with the dynamic atmosphere and vibrant energy its student-strong population conjures up. But don’t be deceived by its youthful character. Cluj’s historical legacy dates back centuries from Roman to Hungarian rule, the traces of which are scattered throughout the city where bohemian bars and lively backstreet cafes sit cheek-by-jowl amongst ancient churches and buildings adorned with an eclectic mix of neo-classical, baroque and gothic architecture. For something truly eccentric, wander down Mirror Street, an exact replica of Paris’s Boulevard Haussmann with identical facades on both sides. Aside from its zesty atmosphere and prevalent historical roots, the city is also a hothouse for culture and the arts boasting some excellent museums, galleries, theatres and opera houses.
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PIATA UNIRII Cluj’s main square, Piata Unirii, is the focal point of the city and a veritable goldmine of historical sights, cultural gems and bohemian cafes. Aside from the vast St. Michael’s Church which dwarves the square, there’s the imposing statue of Hungarian King Matyas Corvinus atop his horse, and the baroque Banffy Palace housing the National Art Museum, as well as the excellent Ethnographic Museum, and the tiny but quirky Pharmacy Museum which is filled with all manner of unusual items including 18th century aphrodisiacs and ground mummy dust!
ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH
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It would be virtually impossible not to catch sight of the immense St. Michael’s Church, which dominates Piata Unirii and towers over Cluj with its 80 metre-high neo-Gothic tower. The 14th-century Catholic Church was built between 1349 and 1487 and represents one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Romania, while the hall church interiors showcase 15th century frescoes, Italian Renaissance motifs, and a wooden Baroque pulpit. For super panoramic views over the city, make sure you clamber up to the top of the tower. Services are held daily in both Hungarian and Romanian. Piata Unirii, Open daily 09:00 – 18:00 24
Cluj > See > Piazza Unirri / St. Michael’s Church
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CLUJ WALKING TOUR Experience Romania’s second largest city on foot with a guided tour around Cluj’s best sights, and let your guide help unravel the stories behind the eclectic mix of architecture and fascinating history while you map stays in your pocket and the city unfolds before your eyes. Highlights include Museum Square, Union Square along with the striking Gothic St. Michael’s Church, and Babes Bolyai University. An interesting way to understand the city’s multicultural past and also a fantastic opportunity to help you get your bearings of the city. Price: 70 RON per person (around £12) Duration: 1 hour and 15 minutes
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ZAMA A taste of Transylvania with a contemporary twist, Zama breathes new life into traditional Romanian dishes and serves them with flair using fresh, local ingredients. Their soups are particularly special and include eggplant cream, green lettuce or bean with smoked ham, and don’t miss out on the famous papanasi! Just like the menu, the decor fuses the old and the new with its skillful combination of modern aesthetics and rustic pieces featuring traditional plates collected from Transylvanian peasant homes. Napoca 16; Open Mon to Fri 08:00 - 00:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 00:00
EAT
BUJOLE This smart casual eatery in the heart of Cluj is effortlessly stylish with its fresh, modern décor and minimal menu that features a range of carefully selected classic European dishes such as beef tartare, herb crusted lamb chops, and homemade carbonara. The wine list is good and the coffee excellent although the small space can get a bit cramped when busy. Doesn’t take reservations. Piata Unirii 15, Open Mon to Fri 08:00 – 23:00, Sat & Sun 09:00 – 23:00 28
Cluj > Eat > Zama / Bujole
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CASA BOEMA Perfect for al fresco lunches or summer suppers, Casa Boema boasts a beautiful hidden courtyard complete with linden trees, wooden seating areas and fairy lights that create a magical atmosphere come nightfall. The menu is extensive with plenty of options from pizza and pasta to meat, fish and everything in between. You won’t be stuck for choice when it comes to drinks either – there’s fresh lemonades and juices, local wines, and more cocktails than you can shake a stick at! Iuliu Maniu 34; Open daily 11:00 - 04:00
EAT
CABINET DE VIN & COCOTTE Contemporary cuisine served in a cool, quirky setting. The eclectic menu features an array of international flavours and encourages you to make creative combinations by adding your appetisers with a medley of dressings and your main courses with sides and sauces (blueberry sauce on your turbot anyone?). Dishes are presented in cast-iron pots or cocottes and paired with good wines. Service is excellent and although prices aren’t cheap, dining here is still good value. Eroilor 5; Open daily 12:00 - 23:00
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YOLKA BAR It’s well worth making the effort to find this hidden gem, which is tucked away on the first floor through a slightly obscure entrance. Yolka excels in its simplicity - bright rooms with wooden furnishings, plant-filled walls and a seriously creative ceiling design. This combined with their simple drinks menu featuring fresh lemonades and cocktails makes it an ideal place to hang out any time of day. Try their signature coffee dashed with pine syrup then grab a table by the window for awesome views over St. Michael’s Church. Piata Unirii 21, Ap. 3; Open Mon to Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 02:00
JOBEN BISTRO
DRINK
Furnished with industrial copper pipes and exposed mechanical gears that clash spectacularly with vintage portraits and oldfashioned lamps, this retro-futuristic steampunk bar feels likes walking right into the pages of a Jules Verne novel. Although Joben Bistro could technically be classified as a restaurant, we prefer thinking of it as a funky bar and suggest coming here for drinks instead and eating elsewhere. Service can be hit or miss. Strada Avram Iancu 29; Open Mon to Thurs 08:00 - 23:00, Fri to Sun 08:00 - 03:00 32
Cluj > Eat > Zama / Bujole
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VISIT
TURDA SALT MINE Located approximately 50km from Cluj, the city of Turda is famous for its salt mine, which is one of the oldest in the world and dates all the way back to the Middle Ages. But it was only used for mining salt until 1932 when closed. Since then the underground cavern has been used for a multitude of purposes including serving as a storage centre for cheese and a bomb shelter for locals during the Second World War. It was only in 1992 that city officials came up with the wacky idea of transforming the salt mine into a surreal underground amusement park and museum. Today, the vertical shafts that once hauled thousands of tons of excavated salt to the surface centuries ago now transport wide-eyed visitors 400 metres into the depths of the mine to explore the area. At the bottom of the massive cavern you’ll find an entire theme park kitted out with bowling alley, miniature golf course, ping pong tables, ferris wheel, and even a subterranean lake you can paddle around in rowing boats. For those wanting to learn more about the mine’s historical origins, the museum showcases perfectly preserved salt extracting equipment and of course there are plenty of giant natural stalactites to gawp at. At 80 per cent humidity, the enclosed mine maintains a steady temperature of around 12 to 14 degrees celsius so we recommend bringing a few extra layers when visiting to keep you nice and toasty.
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MARAMURES
SEE Breb Village (40-41) Wooden Churches (42-45) Sarbi Village & Watermill (46-47) Merry Cemetery (48-49) Communist Museum (50-51)
DO Sunday Church Service (52-53) Horse & Cart (54-55) Cycling (54-55) Village Activities & Local Crafts (56-57) Pottery (58-59)
EAT Traditional Meals (60-61) Picnic Lunch (62-63)
STAY Village Hotel (64-65) The Potter’s House (66-67)
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MARAMURES Deep in the heart of the Romanian countryside, the Maramures region epitomises the country’s rural heritage and showcases traditional peasant lifestyle beautifully. The Maramures area itself is a scenic masterpiece of natural beauty with remote mountain passes, beautiful valleys and vast expanses of open landscape. Its rolling countryside is a patchwork of green pastures and meadows carpeted with wild flowers, peppered here and there with clusters of the region’s iconic wooden churches and small villages that embrace Romanian peasant lifestyle. Compact and unique, a visit to Maramures is truly a step back in time through to an age of romantic simplicity and medieval rural values, distinctly preserved in the traditionally run and peasant-inhabited Romanian country villages. Of course, modernity has still managed to creep its way into the daily lives of many Maramures inhabitants and its not uncommon to see mobile phones, satellite dishes and cars throughout the area. In order to give you the best chance of witnessing the real rural Romania, we’ve tried to locate you in more remote villages like Breb where ancient customs still thrive.
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BREB VILLAGE
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Time seems to stand still in the village of Breb, which is nestled in the heart of the Maramures countryside. Endless rolling meadows are speckled with beehive-shaped haystacks, trees are laden with apples, horses trot down the country lanes pulling hay-leaden carts and farmers harvest their fields with scythes. Despite a few exceptions, the lifestyle here is one of subsistence - locals make the most of nature’s bountiful offerings by eating the vegetables they grow in their gardens, boiling up jams from handpicked fruits, and drinking the milk from their own cows. Homes are built from trees in the surrounding forest, and water is still drawn from the nearest well. Cars are few and far between, and despite the arrival of electricity and flush toilets, many woman still hand wash their clothes in the gushing streams. Traditional dress remains a feature of village life and you’ll come across many locals wearing their hand-woven clothing with pride, particularly on Sundays when they congregate at their nearest wooden church for long services.
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Maramures > See > Breb
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WOODEN CHURCHES Unique to Maramures and iconic the world over, the countryside is peppered with beautiful wooden churches that date all the way back to the 17th and 18th centuries, 8 of which have made it onto the acclaimed list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Almost each and every tiny village has its own wooden church adorned with dramatic Gothic spires and decorated with stunning interior frescoes. Read more about the wooden churches you’ll be visiting on your trip below. Rogoz Built in 1633, the wooden church in Rogoz was one of the very few religious monuments that survived the Tatar invasion of 1717 through Maramures. Unlike its counterparts, the church features an asymmetrical roof, the larger side of which was cleverly designed to protect churchgoers from the elements during religious services. It also covers the ‘Elders Table’ where the members of the village’s wealthy families were seated and whose names were carved onto the church walls.
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Budesti Constructed with oak in 1643 and standing at 38 metres tall, the wooden church in Budesti features impressive interior paintings from 1760, a unique collection of painted 15th century wooden and glass icons, and legendary outlaw Pintea the Brave’s coat of mail. Its distinctive elements include the www.untravelledpaths.com
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arrangement of the main belfry which is surrounded by tour smaller turrets, as well as the 14 pillars that provide support for the church’s tall double roof.
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Desesti Following the Tartar invasion of 1717 when numerous churches and religious monuments were burned to the ground, the wooden church in Desesti was eventually rebuilt in 1770. Wellpreserved paintings from 1780 decorate the interior of the church and depict classical Biblical themes, the most interesting of which portrays Turks, Tartars and Jews dressed in traditional garb in the Last Judgement tableau. This representation of cultural influences is further reinforced in the cemetery where you’ll spot a number of circular and semi-circular Celtic crosses. Surdesti Perched on a hilltop just beyond the village, Surdesti’s oak-wood church towers at an impressive 72 metres tall and represents one of the tallest wooden structures in the world. Built in the early 18th century around 1721, the UNESCO Heritage Site boasts some remarkable wall painting dating back to 1810, and several wooden icons that are extremely valuable. For some wonderful views of the Maramures countryside, make sure you climb up onto the tower roof from the porch.
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Maramures > See > Wooden Churches
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SARBI VILLAGE & WATERMILL Located near the banks of the Cosau river, the village of Sarbi is famous for its traditional wooden gates, whirlpools, and a 100 year old wooden watermill that is still used to this day, serving as a natural washing machine for the local women who come to clean their clothes, rugs and woollen blankets. You should get the opportunity to meet the unforgettable Gheorghe Opris, the village miller who is almost always seen topped with a traditional Maramures hat, grinding corn, thrashing oats and distilling his very own hornica - the local plum brandy that may well blow your head off! You’ve got to try it at least once though, and you’ll no doubt be invited to share a glass with the eccentric Gheorghe while he regales you with anecdotes and tales of daily life. Bottoms up!
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MERRY CEMETERY
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This unique graveyard hasn’t earned its title as the ‘Merry Cemetery’ for nothing. Here, in the pastoral village of Sapanta, death isn’t as grim as it seems. Each of the hundreds of graves in the cemetery is marked not with a dull, morose stone but with a colourful, beautifully carved wooden cross featuring bright paintings and inscribed poetic verses that offer a glimpse into the life and character of the deceased. From witty and whimsical, to comically dark and downright honest, the epitaphs capture the bygone inhabitants of the village warts and all, poking fun at their flaws and revealing their dirty secrets including scandalous affairs, love of alcohol, or even, shockingly, the murder of ones own mother ('Griga, may you pardoned be, even though you did stab me’)! We were particularly tickled by the tongue-in-cheek tale of a long-suffering man who thought his mother-in-law might torment him forever by living eternally. The quirky tradition was initiated by local carpenter, Stan Ioan Patras, who composed his first epitaph back in 1935 from the stories he gleaned about the deceased, adding them to the 800 plus crosses he carved and painted until his death in 1977. See if you can find his tomb in front of the church door where his headstone is marked by two white doves. Enjoy exploring the throng of graves - we don’t think we’ve ever smiled so much on a visit to the cemetery! 48
Maramures > See > Merry Cemetery
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COMMUNIST MUSEUM Set inside Sighet’s former prison where hundreds of the intellectual and political elite were held captive during the Romania’s communist regime, the Communist Museum (or Memorial Museum of the Victims of Communism and of the Resistance to give it its full title) was opened in 1997. The prison now serves as a haunting exhibition space showcasing the horror of the oppression under communism, its 51 prison cells each organised in chronological order from the 1940s to the 1980s around a particular communist-angle theme. There are displays on torture methods, collectivisation, and the demolition of Bucharest’s historic centre, exhibits about the feared Securitate, and forced labour on the DanubeBlack Sea Canal, memorials to two of the prison’s most famous inmates - political figures Iuliu Maniu and Gheorghe Bratianu - and even a cell devoted solely to Nicolae Ceausescu and his golden age of communism filled with oil paintings, framed photos of the Romanian dictator alongside Fidel Castro, and other kitsch memorabilia.
SEE 50
Don’t miss the courtyard towards the rear of the museum with its underground memorial hall inscribed with names of some 8,000 people who died in communist prisons across Romania as well as the collection of eerie bronze statues.
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SUNDAY CHURCH SERVICE
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Church plays an important role in Maramures, especially on Sundays when work stops for the morning and the entire village congregates at their local wooden church to pray, and listen to a full Orthodox service. Watching the locals turn up in their Sunday best is a wonderful experience – many of the women wearing traditional costumes of embroidered blouses, colourful skirts, aprons and headscarves, while the men sport felt trousers and little straw hats in the shape of an upturned bell. As they enter the church, you’ll see the villagers praying at the altar, crossing themselves repeatedly, touching icons and kissing the carpet beneath them. Look out for any incongruent footwear worn by the younger women too - spotting skyscraper heels is more common (and amusing) than you think! The Orthodox service itself last around two hours but you don’t need to stay for the duration of the service. Don’t worry, the locals won’t think you rude should you pop in and out. In fact, your presence will be much appreciated, igniting a sense of pride in the congregation that a Western traveller is interested in their local traditions.
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HORSE & CART Experience transport the local way by taking a ride on a traditional horse and cart. You’ll set off around the rural village of Breb, past some beautiful meadows and pastures, for an alternative view of village life where you can absorb the simple, natural surroundings. Why can’t all travelling be this fun? Reservations need to be made in advance and prices vary according to numbers. Each cart can accommodate up to 5 people. Duration: 2 hours Location: Breb Price: from 25 RON per person (around £4)
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CYCLING Get out in the fresh air, under your own steam for an hour or two with a cycle ride through the rural village of Breb or across the pastoral Maramures countryside taking in the woods and other neighbouring villages with their wooden churches, traditional gates and iconic haystacks. Please note there are only a limited number of bicycles available so do let us know well in advance if you’d like to use them. Bicycles are rented by the day. Location: Breb Price: 50 RON per person (around £9)
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VILLAGE ACTIVITIES & LOCAL CRAFTS Take a step back in time and get a slice of everyday life in Breb. From getting your hands dirty during the harvest time with hay stacking and learning the art of rustic cookery, to shepherding, cow milking, berry picking and jam making, we’ll set you up with a local host for half a day where you can experience authentic village life. There is also the opportunity to visit local craftsmen including Onisim the basket-weaver, Gheorghe Pop the beekeeper, and Petro Pop, one of the most talented carpenters in the area.
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The range of village activities and local crafts in Breb offers a fantastic insight into rural life here in Maramures. However, please note that many are seasonal and weather dependent so do let us know in advance if you’re interested in getting involved and we’ll inform you of what is available before we arrange your half day with local hosts or visits to the local craftsmen. Duration: 4 hours approx. Price: 100 RON per person (around £17) Includes: transfers and bi-lingual guide
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POTTERY Get your hands dirty with clay and water with a pottery demonstration and class under the expert guidance of Daniel, one of only two potters left in Romania to use traditional techniques. You’ll get to watch the master at work before trying your hand at making a bowl, plate, jug or even a vase! Sign your work of art before leaving the masterpieces out to dry ready for the next stage of the process. Head into Daniel’s workshop and take a look at the wealth of ceramic treasures adorning shelves, tables and even the floor space. Notice those ceramic figurines with exaggerated features? Those are Daniel’s signature pieces, sculpted to depict a bygone age. We think you’ll be rather impressed and you’re more than welcome to purchase any items that take your fancy. For those that are interesting in learning more about pottery and ceramics, there is an hour-long masterclass you can sign up to for 50 RON per person (approximately £9).
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TRADITIONAL MEALS
EAT
There are plenty of opportunities for you to try traditional cuisine during your stay in Maramures. Most are served up in local homes and all are paid for in local currency on arrival. Here is what you can expect. In Breb, you’ll have access to a network of local homes that will serve you lunch and dinner. This typically consists of a soup starter, a main course of sarmale or chicken served with mashed potatoes or mamaliga, followed by a plate of homemade cakes. Everything you eat comes directly from the village whether it's fruit and veg fresh from the garden, cheese from the cows, or honey extracted from the local beehives. That’s not to mention as much of the potent home-brewed firewater, hornica, as you can drink! Price: 35 RON per person. At the Potter’s House in Baia Sprie, your local host Dana, will whip you up a lovely meal complete with local wine featuring plenty of vegetables picked from the garden like blushing red tomatoes and fresh spring onions. Price: 25 RON per person (1 course) / 45 RON per person (2 courses) During your day trip to Sapanta and Sighet to visit the Merry Cemetery and the Communist Museum, we’ll take you to the local restaurant at Casa Iurca, which serves up authentic fare in a traditional setting. Take your pick of local dishes from the menu. 60
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PICNIC LUNCH Enjoy a light picnic lunch in the natural beauty of the Maramures countryside featuring fresh local produce and beverages attained from the villages. We also provide picnic hampers complete with crockery, cutlery, and blankets for additional comfort. We highly recommend opting in for the picnic, as it is your main opportunity for lunch during the journey from Breb to Baia Sprie. Alternatively, you can choose to make your own lunch and bring it along with you.
If you'd like to book, please let us know in advance along with any allergies or specific dietary requirements you may have so we can make all the necessary arrangements. Payment is taken on arrival in local currency and prices are charged per person. Time: Breb to Baia Sprie Price: 50 RON per person (around ÂŁ9)
EAT
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VILLAGE HOTEL Set in the heart of Maramures in the charming village of Breb these traditional wooden cottages are an absolute delight lovingly restored in the typical local style featuring dark wood and shingle roofs. The inside of the cottages are cozy and extremely comfortable, characterised by their rustic-chic decor and furnishings including hand-woven woollen bedspreads, intricately embroidered cushions and cosy sheepskin rugs. Modern fittings and amenities have been tastefully installed allowing you the benefits of modern comforts balanced against the simplicity of rural country living.
STAY
Cottage rooms are quiet and peaceful with comfortable beds topped with clean cotton linens and warm duvets while the bathrooms are well equipped with modern power showers that use water sourced from the Gutin Mountain and heated by the cottage’s very own water heating cylinder. The kitchens are made from solid oak with beautiful stone floors and state of the art cookers, and your fridge will be stocked with local organic produce including milk fresh from the cows, eggs from the garden hens, bread, honey from the neighbouring beehives as well as a bottle of the local firewater. Although there is no central heating, the living rooms feature open wood burners equipped with plenty of logs so you can stoke up a nice fire in the evenings.
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STAY
THE POTTER’S HOUSE Receive a warm welcome from Daniel and Dana and shake off the journey with some fresh, homemade lemonade. The rooms are all decorated in traditional style with mainly wooden furnishings and beds covered with handmade wool blankets that will keep you nice and cosy under the clean soft sheets. Bathrooms are basic but clean. The terrace and gardens are peaceful and inviting with little nooks and crannies in which to read the newspaper or enjoy a drink. It is worth noting that the guesthouse does not actually sell drinks like coca-cola or beer, but they are more than happy to order them in for you with some advance warning. Alternatively, you can choose to stock up on supplies before your arrival and Dana will happily keep them nice and cool in the fridge for you.
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LANGUAGE
ROMANIAN Based on previous feedback, we decided to add a list of basic Romanian words and phrases to help you bridge the language barrier, get you into mystical, faraway-land mode and ease the sense of feeling lost when surrounded by an unknown language. Of course, there will always be our bi-lingual guide with you so you shouldn’t run into any difficulties, and English is widely spoken, particularly by the younger generation, but it can always be fun to try to pick up a new language. As a Romance Language, those who have a broad understanding of French or Italian will probably find that they can understand a fair bit of Romanian so it doesn’t feel completely alien. In parts of Transylvania, German is also understood, if not spoken. Overall, we reckon the Romanian language sounds like a mixture of Italian and Russian and is pretty pleasant to listen to. The pronunciation guide and the words and phrases listed over the following few pages will be more than enough to help you get by but if you want to say something specific, ask your guide. Go on, have a go yourself!
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PRONOUNCIATION
NUMBERS
The Romanian alphabet uses 31 letters which are similar to the letters found in the English alphabet apart from the additional 5 special letter that are known as 'diacritics': ă - ș - ţ - â – î.
One
unu (oo-noo)
Two
doi (doy)
Three
trei (tray)
Four
patru (pah-troo)
Five
cinci (cheench)
Six
şase (shah-seh)
ă – like ‘e’ in father
Seven
şapte (shahp-teh)
e – like ‘e’ in tell
Eight
opt (ohpt)
Nine
nouă (noh-uh)
Ten
zece (zeh-cheh)
Certain letters and combinations of letters are pronounced differently to the way they would be in the English language. The information below should help you to pronounce the letters that are different to our own correctly so that you can learn how to put together words and phrases properly.
i – like ‘i’ in pick j – like ‘su’ in leisure
IMPORTANT SIGNS
ş – like ‘sh’ in shoe ţ – like ‘ts’ in fits ce – like ‘che’ in check
Men
Bărbaţi (buhr-bats)
gi – like ‘gi’ in gin
Women
Femei (feh-mey)
ge – like ‘ge’ in gender
Entrance
Intrare (in-tra-re)
chi – like ‘ki’ in skill
Exit
Ieşire (ye-shi-re)
Open
Deschis (dehs-kis)
Closed
Închis (yn-kis)
che – like ‘che’ in chemistry ghi – like ‘gi’ in give ghi – like ‘gue’ in guess
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WORDS & PHRASES
Same again
Incă un / una Useful when you want to order another beer or glass of wine – just point to your drink(s)!
Yes
Da (dah)
Cheers!
No
Nu (noo)
Noroc! (nor-ock) Use this when you’re being encouraged to drink polinka. It literally means ‘good luck’ – you’ll need it!
Please
Vă rog (vuh-rohg)
Here
Thank you
Mulţumesc (mool-tzu-mesk) If in doubt, just say mersi, it’s informal and easy to remember! Just imagine you’re in France.
Aici (ah-ee-ch) Use this in a taxi when you want the driver to pull over.
Still water
Apă plată (ah-puh plah-tah) If you ask for mineral water it will be fizzy.
I don't understand
Nu înţeleg (noo oohn-tzeh-leg) Always good to let people know you’re not trying to be rude.
Bathroom
Toaleta? (oon-deh yeh twah-leh-tah) Just in case you need to go to the loo!
I love you
Te iubesc (teh yoo-besk) Probably best not to use this on strangers but p erfect for romantic brownie points!
Hello
Salut (sah-loot) Like the French – easy.
Goodbye
La revedere (lah reh-veh-deh-reh) Pa is also used and is less of a tongue-twister. You can say ciao too if you’re stuck!
Good day
Bună ziua (boo-nuh zee-wah) You can always just nod and say ‘buna’ if it’s too much of a mouthful
Good evening
Bună seara (boo-nuh syah-ruh) Very much like the Italian – buona-sera.
How are you?
Ce faci? (cheh fahtch)
Fine, thank you.
Mulţumesc, bine (bee-neh) Bine also means ‘good’ or ‘okay’.
The bill
Notă (no-ta) A handy word to use when asking for the bill without having to compose a sentence!
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TIPS & TRICKS
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Wear sun cream! Books to read when you’re in Maramures include William Blacker’s Along the Enchanted Way: A Story of Love and Life in Romania; and for less up-to-date accounts: Dervla Murphy’s Transylvania and Beyond; Patrick Leigh Fermor’s Between the Woods and the Water. Be patient with service in bars and restaurants, it’s often slow and frustrating Romanians like their coffee strong, black and incredibly sweet. You have been warned! The Romanian beers are called Ursus and Ciuc You’ve got to try hornica at least once but be careful not to blow your head off – it’s powerful stuff Watch out for horse and carts laden with hay bumbling down the maze of country lanes, they can move at surprising speed and won’t always be too keen to stop for you! It’s not uncommon to hear English spoken in an American accent by the younger generation of Romanians as there is so much American TV around! Stews and bean soup are a safe bet for food and if in doubt, go for snitzel Condiments are ordered and charged for separately so you’ll need to let your waiter know if you want butter, ketchup etc. If you don't want bread, say so or it will be brought to your table and added to your bill You may like to bring some small gifts like biscuits or soaps www.untravelledpaths.com
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from home to offer to any local hosts you meet in Maramures – it’s much nicer than tipping Water and soft drinks are served without ice unless requested Avoid using ATM machines that are not attached to bank in Cluj, you’ll get a terrible exchange rate If the language stumps you, you can easily fall back on these basic French and Italian words: salut (hello), merci (thanks) and ciao (bye) If want to use your camera in museums you may have to pay a rather outrageous fee for the privilege Don’t be surprised if an older shopkeeper quotes you an extortionately high price for a bottle of water – the older generation add zeros If you don’t want to drink shots upon shots of hornica, make sure you politely stand your ground as you’ll be offered it everywhere Don’t turn your nose up at the pastries and sandwiches in the petrol stations, they’re much nicer and fresher than you think! Locals in Maramures enjoy being photographed, and will hope to be sent the picture. Be sure to write down names and addresses and remember to post photographs when you get home. Don’t bother looking for your seatbelt in taxis, you’ll be hard pressed to find a Romanian taxi that provides fully functioning ones Wine mixed with sparkling water (șpriţ) is popular in the summer so don’t be surprised if you waiter asks if you’d like some water mixed in with your wine
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DID YOU KNOW?
DID YOU KNOW? • • •
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Romania comes from the Latin ‘Romanus’ meaning ‘citizen of the Roman Empire’ Romania is roughly the same size as the United Kingdom – 92,043 square miles The Carpathian Mountains are home to one of the largest undisturbed forests in Europe as well as 60% of Europe’s Brown Bear population Timisoara was the first city in Europe to have electric street lights in 1889 There are over 100 wooden churches in Maramures but only 8 of them are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites – the ones in Surdesti, Plopis, Rogoz, Ieud, Budesti, Barsana, Desesti and Poeinile Izei The Palace of the Parliament in Bucharest is the second largest building in the world The fountain pen was invented by the Romanian, Petrache Poenaru, in 1827 Transylvania translates to ‘the land beyond the forest’ Peles Castle was the first in Europe with electricity and central heating Romanian gymnast, Nadia Comaneci, was the first to achieve a perfect score of 10.00 in the history of gymnastics during the Montreal Olympics in 1976 The tallest wooden church in the world is in Maramures, north of Romania Hollywood movie Cold Mountain was filmed in Romania’s www.untravelledpaths.com
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Carpathian Mountains starring Jude Law, Renee Zellweger and Nicole Kidman The ASTRA Museum in Sibiu is the second largest outdoor museum in the world Legend has it that the pots and pans hanging outside local Maramures houses are a sign that in that household there is a young unmarried woman waiting for suitors On March 1 Romanians celebrate the beginning of spring in their own unique way. To show their respect, men and boys offer their female loved ones a ‘Martisor’ (small trinkets attached to a red/white lace – red for love, white for honesty) The real Dracula (Vlad Tepes or Vlad the Impaler) was a Romanian prince and military leader who fought the Turks in the Middle Ages. Count Dracula the vampire was created by Irish writer, Bram Stoker in 1897 The Romanian language is spoken by over 25 million people and is 1,700 years old Brasov is home to the largest gothic church east of Vienna which not only holds the largest organ in Europe with 4000 tubes but also houses the largest bell in Romania, weighing in at a whopping 6.3 tons Many locals in rural Maramures villagers still pay for items with local produce instead of currency The jet engine used by modern airplanes was invented by Bucharest-born aerodynamics pioneer Henri Coanda
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WITH THANKS
WITH THANKS We hope this booklet has been useful to you and we’d love to know what you think. So if you’ve noticed any mistakes, or inconsistencies then please do get in touch and let us know. We’re always looking for feedback too so if you think something’s been misleading or you happen to stumble upon a little gem of a restaurant, a gorgeous little café or a buzzing bar that you think deserves a mention then please do fill us in. We’re sure there are plenty of hidden delights we have yet to discover! Oh, and we also accept positive comments. Enjoy your trip! The Untravelled Paths Team KEEP IN TOUCH: Untravelled Paths 24 Ferncroft Avenue London NW3 7PH www.untravelledpaths.com info@untravelledpaths.com 0207 101 4061 Facebook: /UntravelledPaths Twitter: @untravpaths
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TRIP DISCOUNTS
TRIP DISCOUNTS Just to say thank you for travelling with us, we’re happy to offer you a 10% discount on any other Untravelled Paths experience within 18 months of your trip. Simply let us know during the booking process that you’re a UTP super client but please note that this discount is not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Take a look online for some inspiration on the sorts of experience we have in our collection and if you enjoyed the Rural Romania Experience we think you’d love...
THE ALBANIAN ALPS EXPERIENCE Get a slice of village life in the remote Albanian Alps and enjoy plenty of fresh air and mountain walks.
THE DANUBE DELTA EXPERIENCE Witness Europe’s last natural paradise and largest wetland – the Danube Delta in the Romania.
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