The Brewers Journal - Canada edition, Spring 2018

30 | Junction craft brewing changes tracks

45 | rebellion brewing a hit in Saskatchewan

50 | the full lowdown on CBC & brewexpo 2018

The magazine for the canadian brewing industry

Brewers J o u r n a l

Spring 2018 | issue 8 ISSN 2398-6956

THE EXCHANGE Niagara’s finest on turning two

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l ea d e r

up your game

M

uch is said about how parts of the Canadian brewing industry is still a number of years behind its counterparts in the USA. But having had the privilege to speak with the some of the fantastic breweries featured in this issue, it's hard to see that mindset remain for much longer.

Granted, a great deal of emphasis on education is still needed. We all know that people are taking to modern, well-made beer in a raft of styles they didn't even know existed, let alone liked. So it's a case of educating the consumer on the options available to them, getting the message out there and winning over those drinkers one by one. That's not been for want of trying, of course but it's evident that there's a collective goal to achieve this and for that to happen, everyone needs to be on their 'A' game.

Having a great brand and, sometimes, great beer is no longer enough. You need both in perfect harmony and drinkers will come to expect that. Sure, such is the insatiable appetite for the ‘new’ that consumers can look past a limited release or a seasonal number that swings…and misses. But do that twice or more? You’ve probably lost that consumer for life and what’s worse, brought down the collective ‘craft’ beer industry with it.

Especially if the consumer was dipping their toes into the world of good beer for the first time.

“In the world of beer quality, the tangibles really boil down to one critical thing: consistency. While consistency in itself can encompass a broad range of aspects around the entire brewing process from raw materials, mash schedules, equipment design, fermentation to conditioning, every brewer wants to maintain consistency of flavor,” explains Neva Parker, who is the vice president of operations at White Labs.

She goes on to add: “It is this very attribute that has brought us the concepts around quality control: to control and maintain the quality and consistency of beer."

And one major advocate of ensuring breweries

brewersjournal.ca

editor's choice How after many years, the team at Junction Craft Brewing have somewhere new to call home - page 30

are all pulling in the same positive direction is Robin Ridesic, founder of The Exchange Brewery, who graces this issue's cover.

The Exchange is a brewery and tasting room located in Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Old Town heritage district. While the town is known as the heart of Ontario’s wine country, it is also the scene of a burgeoning craft-brewing industry. And as The Exchange grows and evolves, Ridesic along with head brewer Sam Maxbauer are excited about the flourishing scene they are part of. Thanks again to the team for their time recently.

Looking ahead, this month's Craft Brewers Conference and BrewExpo is set to be another successful event. I'm looking forward to seeing the wealth of innovation on offer, and hopefully, many of you.

Best of luck in what you do and enjoy the rest of the issue.

Tim Sheahan Editor

Spring 2018

3

c o ntact s

contacts Tim Sheahan Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592

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SUBscriptions The Brewers Journal is a quarterly magazine mailed every Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. Subscriptions can be purchased for four or eight issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: sales@rebymedia.com

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4

Spring 2018

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal Canada ISSN 23986948 is published bimonthly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA, UK. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA, UK. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

Brewers Journal Canada

c o ntent s

contents 45

30

12

50

57

Cover story 22 - Robin Ridesic and her team at Niagara-on-the-Lake's The Exchange Brewery on confidence in their future

advertorial | Stanpac 12 - How the Ontario business has been helping breweries take their branding to the next level

COMMENTS 14 - The FSA's guidance on handling hazardous chemicals in your brewery 16 - Palladium Insurance talk liqour liability 18 - Roger Mittag on the cost of market entry 19 - Sessions discuss why seaming is crucial 20 - Brewlab ask if cask vs keg is a case of style vs substance

focus | quality control 39 - Effective quality control is essential to ensure you give beer the attention it deserves

meet the brewer | rebellion 45 - How Rebellion Brewing is making strides and testing boundaries in Saskatchewan

show | cbc & brewexpo 50 - The fulll lowdown on Nashville, 2018

crossing continents | fyne ales 57 - Expansion and exploration in Scotland

Brewery tour | Junction craft brewing 30 - Tom Paterson and Doug Pengelly's brewery has got itself a new home and the duo feel as if they've now arrived at their destination

brewersjournal.ca

SCIENCE 62 - Use your senses 66 - Dealing with dextrins 68 - The focus on lauter tun technology

Spring 2018

5

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ne w s

Brunswick Bierworks appoints new brewmaster

L

a Trappe brewmaster Lodewijk Swinkels has left the Dutch Trappist brewery to join Ontario’s Brunswick

Bierworks as its brewmaster and head of operations.

He is the seventh generation of brewers and for the past 14 years, has been the brewmaster at De Koningshoeven Brewery (La Trappe).

Here, he won numerous international brewing awards and established La Trappe’s world-renowned barrel aging program.

Swinkels’ relationship with Brunswick Bierworks goes back decades to the Technical University of Munich in Weihenstephan where he received his training and befriended Brunswick Bierwork’s Senior Brewing Advisor Christian Riemerschmid von der Heide.

He commented: “I was drawn to the passion here and

about.”

Mike Laba, partner at Brunswick Bierworks, added:

to be honest, I was drawn to the beer. To be able to brew

“It is truly an honour to have one of the world’s best

with some of the most iconic and innovative brewers in a

brewmasters coach, train and mentor the Brunswick

brand new, world-class facility is something you dream

Bierworks brewing team.”

Cask launches “industry changer” canning system

C

anadian manufacturer Cask has unveiled its new

provides the best automated features of our various machines, along with new package-size flexibility — all in one very compact, mobile and affordable machine. It’s an industry changer.

system, Micro-Automated Canning System (mACS),

“With this machine our customers get highly efficient

which combines a compact footprint and the ability to fill

filling and the ability to create new revenue streams and

cans of various sizes.

beverages.

The system can be converted to fill and seam cans of

“They can quickly shift to new can sizes for current

varying heights and diameters — from 5.5 ounces (163

products, or jump from beer and cider to soft drinks and

mL) to 19.2 ounces (568 mL) in volume in less than 30

uncarbonated beverages such as cold brew coffee, wine

minutes.

and energy drinks.”

The mACS also has electric cam-driven seamers,

“Since it can be equipped with an array of automated

three CO2 pre-purge heads, three fill heads, and a post-fill

components, the mACS also enables our customers to

rinser and dryer.

scale up the automation of their canning process as they

The new machine measures 7 by 2.5 feet and has a very small footprint of 17.5 square feet.

Its conveyor belt can feeder allows for adding such automated pre- and post-packaging components as a depalletizer, inline date coder, nitrogen doser, pressuresensitive labeler, shrink sleever and other components.

Elsewhere, the machine’s CO2 pre-purge component evacuates oxygen prior to can filling, while the three-head filler’s unique technology combines fill-level sensors with proprietary foam-control valves.

Those features combine to produce filled cans with

grow and diversify.”

Sessions Craft Canning adds new line

S

essions Craft Canning has added a fourth canning line to their fleet of mobile lines which will be based

permanently in Ottawa Ontario.

The company has also opened a state of the art 32,000 sq/ft label application facility based in Mississauga, Ontario. This larger facility includes faster

extremely low dissolved oxygen pickup of just 5-20 parts

labelling equipment for the shrink sleeve style of can as

per billion — better or comparable to large-scale and

the demand for this type of beer can continues to rise.

much more expensive canning and bottling lines.

Cask founder Peter Love explained: The mACS

brewersjournal.ca

Sessions Craft Canning supplies shrink sleeve cans to breweries in Ontario, Quebec and Eastern Canada.

Spring 2018

7

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Durham College opens Centre for Craft Brewing Innovation D

urham College is offering craft brewers access to a wealth of expertise, technology and research

services at its Centre for Craft Brewing Innovation.

The Centre for Craft Brewing Innovation (CCBI) has opened at its Whitby campus.

The announcement took place during a special launch event on March 27, in the midst of Ontario’s continued craft brewing industry boom.

According to the Ontario Craft Brewers February 2018 fact sheet, this segment was one of the fastest growing in the LCBO, seeing 20 to 30 per cent growth year-overyear and the total economic impact of small breweries is estimated to be roughly $1.4 billion.

“We are very excited about what the centre offers craft brewers,” explained Chris Gillis, manager, Applied Research Business Development, ORSIE. “There is so much potential to further innovate by refining brewing methods and recipes, as well as increasing technical knowledge and skills within the industry.”

The centre comprises a pilot brew line and brew lab, which were purchased using a $150,000 Applied Research Tools and Instruments grant from the Natural

challenges they may be facing, including experimenting

Sciences and Engineering Research Council, the CCBI

with new recipes and flavour profiles, propagating and

offers craft brewers access to expertise and state-of-the-

maintaining yeast strains and conducting scientific

art technology, as well as micro-analytical and research

analyses to ensure the analytical and microbiological

services.

integrity of their beer.

Under the direction of an experienced microbiologist

This, the college explains, leads to the creation of a

and brewmaster, the CCBI can help craft brewers address

better product within this growing industry.

Beau’s and Bullfrog Power crafting cleaner Canada

a true game changer—being one of the first companies in

Ron Seftel, CEO of Bullfrog Power, explained: “Beau’s is Canada to directly address their energy-related emissions

B

eau’s Brewing Co has teamed up with Bullfrog Power

footprint with all three of Bullfrog Power’s green energy

to work with Just Food, an organization working

offerings: green electricity, green natural gas and now

toward just and sustainable food and farming systems in the Ottawa region.

The companies have helped to finance the solar

green fuel.

“We’re excited to be a part of this unique collaboration, where an innovative local business that champions green

installation of a solar array on the roof of one of their

energy is also helping a local non-profit develop their

buildings at Just Food’s community farm.

own new renewable energy generation. The project at the

“I believe that beer tastes better when you feel

Just Food Farm is just one of more than 130 community

good about drinking it. I’m proud that our independent,

renewable energy projects our organization is supporting

employee owned brewery is able to support Just Food,

through Bullfrog Power.

an amazing, dynamic and important organization in our

"The projects are not only increasing the amount of

local community,” explained Steve Beauchesne, CEO of

renewable energy in Canada and cleaning our grid -- they

Beau’s Brewing Co.

are also providing important social and cultural impacts."

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Spring 2018

Brewers Journal Canada

N E W L A N D S

P I LO T

S Y S T E M S

The Biggest little brew system you will ever use BUILT FOR BREWERS BY BREWERS

Adding a Newlands Pilot System to your existing production brewery allows you to supplement your tap room production and give you the flexibility to experiment and innovate with different beer styles without affecting your larger production. The Newlands Pilot System offers great scalability & reproducibility ensuring your recipes turn out perfect each time. Starting at 2bbl, your Newlands Pilot System will be built to suit, we offer all levels of control from manual to fully automated, various kinds of finish from stainless and copper to mirror polish. We can also build it to mimic your existing production brewhouse.

NSIBREW.COM

1 . 8 7 7. 8 5 5 . 4 8 9 0

ne w s

Toronto’s Radical Roads Brewery partners with Hydro Dynamics on Cavitation IPA

R

adical Roads Brewery has worked with US-based

flavours into your beer. It can also be used with fruit or

Hydro Dynamics to produce an IPA that leverages

other flavour sources.

cavitation in the process.

Hi-Fi Cavitation IPA is a 6.2% IPA. Using Hydro Dynamics technology, air bubbles are projected into the

As a liquid passes through the SPR it is subjected to “controlled cavitation”. The heart of the device is a specially designed rotor that spins.

hops, and through a vacuum effect, these bubbles pull

The spinning action generates hydrodynamic

flavour out of the hops as the finished beer (with hops)

cavitation in the rotor cavities away from the metal

circulates from the fermenter between hoses that are

surfaces. The cavitation is controlled and therefore there

powered by a pump, and the machine.

is no damage. As microscopic cavitation bubbles are

This is typically used at the dry hopping phase, and the idea is that the machine produces more intense hop

People’s Pint Brewing Company opens in Toronto Junction

produced and collapse, shockwaves are given off into the liquid which can heat and/or mix.

breweries with tight budgets, the manufacturer explained.

The system itself is also light and considered a perfect match for breweries with multi use spaces or mobile canning operations. It is also specifically designed for low

P

eople’s Pint Brewing Company has opened its doors

clearance applications such as box trucks or low ceiling

in Toronto, located in the site formerly occupied by

heights.

Junction Craft Brewing.

The team has worked hard to transforming the space

Half Pint incorporates an automatic push bar that loads the containers onto a chute which feeds through a

and have relocated the brewing system to the back and

rinser to the filler. The unit is made of stainless steel and

built a tap room bar with a larger seating area in the front.

lightweight aluminum. It will be available with multiple

The brewery opened with twelve taps that included Helles Island Lager, Chinook of the North APA, Serendipitous Sour and Mango Fett Milkshake IPA. The brewery explained: “In the spirit of their original

power configurations.

“A true mobile depalletizer proven under mobile working conditions” said Matt Vincent, President and CoOwner at Ska Fabricating. “The original design for this new

event series they have a number of guest brewers whose

depalletizer was purchased from Owen Lingley at Craft

beer will also be on tap, including; Paroxysm, a Brett

Canning & Bottling located in Portland, OR. We really liked

NEIPA, a collab with Reverence Barrel Works, Gose Faced

some features of the original design and we are excited to

Killah with Guava by guest brewer Kim Lucas, an ESB

show it off with our new modifications.

from guest brewer Katalyst Brewing, a Coffee Blonde

by GTA Brews founder Eric Cousineau and a cask of American Brown Ale by Bent Mallet Brewers.”

Ska fabricating launches new mobile depalletizer

New pocket-sized flow measuring technology for brewers.

E

ndress+Hauser has launched Picomag, which caters for the demands for reliable and maintenance-free

S

ka Fabricating has unveiled a mobile depalletizer designed for mobile canning operations and

breweries operating in tight spaces.

The new system, called Half Pint, is targeted at mobile

measuring in a pocket-sized format.

The Picomag system measures the flow of electrically conductive fluids, as well as their process temperature.

In addition, Picomag offers easy commissioning with

canning businesses and breweries that operate under

Bluetooth using its SmartBlue App, as well as seam- less

both tight space and budgetary restraints.

system integration thanks to IO-Link technology.

Half Pint requires little to no installation, which makes

The company said: “Whether it is for quantity

the depalletizer a suitable option for canning lines from

measurement or process monitoring of cooling, warm or

15 CPM to 60 CPM, as well as international breweries or

process water: Picomag can be installed flawlessly."

10

Spring 2018

Brewers Journal Canada

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WINEMAKING

BREWING

CIDER MAKING

A dv e rto r i a l

S tanpac

Making its mark Packaging supplier Stanpac was founded in 1949 and it has remained focused on providing its customers with incredible service and quality products ever since.

And now, in 2018, the Ontario business is using its state-of-the-art technology and best-in-class quality control to elevate its clients branding and packaging to the next level.

And a major focus for the business in 2018 is Stanpac Ink service, showing breweries that the bottle is the canvas for your design and there are no boundaries like those of the traditional label.

With that in mind, here are some reasons why the Stanpac Ink service could be right for you.

What is direct screen printing or bottle decorating?

T

his screen printing process eliminates the need for a label. Durable ink is applied directly onto the

W

container and is baked on the bottle or cured with Ultra e are dedicated to growing

Violet light if UV inks are used. The end result is a design

our business by developing

that won’t tear or scuff. Inks are available that will allow

innovative packaging products and

the bottle to be washed in a caustic solution and reused

expanding the markets we serve.

in reliable applications.

This provides new opportunities for

our people and allows us to support numerous projects in our community,� explain Stanpac.

The business employs 500 people and serves more than 800 customers across 30 countries in six continents.

It has also witnessed a steady increase of business (30% 2017-2018) in the craft brewer industry, particularly for

What colors are available?

D

esigns can be printed using any color desired.

Process printing is also possible when using UV inks.

Other affects include precious metals, glow-in the dark, and raised lettering.

high-end 22 oz bottles.

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Spring 2018

Brewers Journal Canada

S tanpac

A dv e rto r i a l

How does the process work?

Does Stanpac supply bottles?

T

T

he bottle is held by the base and the neck and is moved up to the printing screen where the ink is

he customer supplies the bottles to Stanpac. We work with many glass manufacturers and distributors

pushed through the screen and onto the surface of the

that provide all sorts of glass containers both domestic

bottle. The bottle is then moved to the next position

and international. We can assist you in obtaining just what

where a second color can be applied. The equipment

you need from one of these sources.

has the ability of applying up to five colors at one time.

Some designs call for more than five colors. This can be accomplished by running the bottle through the process more than once or by using the four color process method of printing.

How do we get started?

P

rovide us with a sample bottle that you are going to use. Supply us with the art work that you have in

mind or if you need help with the design we have an art

What are the order lead times?

L

department that can help. Art is generally supplied in electronic format using common artwork programs such

ead time is determined by the amount of orders we have in house. Different seasons and markets cause

as Illustrator.

We will advise you of a price for the project while the

the lead times log to vary. For planning purposes, you

art process is under way. We will provide you with a target

should plan on 3 to 5 weeks from approved art. Your sales

date for the job to be completed, the day we would like to

or customer service representative will have the latest

receive bottles, any related packaging and the projected

information on our current schedule.

ship date.

What is the price and what are the minimums?

What about trucking?

A

F

colours, the use of precious metals, and the difficulty of

delivery, or you can take care of the trucking yourself.

the design which will provide us with run speed and set

Whatever is most convenient and economical for you.

lthough we have no minimum order, it generally makes economic sense to run at least one pallet of

bottles. Price is determined by bottle quantity, number of

reight is handled in a number of ways. Your bottle distributor can deliver directly to Stanpac, we have

our own trucking company that can arrange pick-up and

up time.

brewersjournal.ca

Spring 2018

13

C o mment

H a z ardous

C hemicals

The Safe Storage, Handling and Use of Hazardous Chemicals No job is unsafe if the proper procedures are in place and being followed. You need to inform yourself and respect the products you are using. Here, Adam Brock, president of the Food Safety Alliance, presents some essential advice and key guidelines to adhere to. by adam brock

W

hen you tell people you are a brewer or work in a brewery they immediately assume you drink beer

for a living. As great as that sounds we know drinking is not an official part of the job (if I’m incorrect here please note I would like to apply for the beer drinking job).

Work Safely Checklist If you cannot answer yes to all the questions on the checklist then you must fix the issue prior to starting your task.

Have I been trained to do the job?

Do I have the right product(s)?

Do I have the right container?

Do I have the right applicator?

Do I know the right procedure?

Is the area free of production?

Is the area or tank ready to be worked on?

Is my equipment in working order?

Do I have my PPE? Do I know where my safety equipment is in case I need it?

Brewing beer consists of many different jobs located in the brewery. One of the largest time consuming jobs is cleaning. During cleaning most breweries use some very strong chemicals and sanitizers with a very wide range on the PH scale. The majority of breweries are dosing

You should have an emergency eye wash and all SDS’s

these chemicals by hand and manually dumping them

located in the same area. All the dispensing equipment

into a vessel. When proper procedures are in place and

and containers should be clearly marked as to which

followed there is no real danger. The old saying “accidents

product they are for.

happen” is true but more than likely it’s not an accident.

The same common sense rules apply to all facets

It is someone not following procedure or behaving in an

of chemical handing. It is very important to not get too

unsafe manor. It is important to know what you are using,

comfortable and loose respect for the products you are

have a written procedure and wear you PPE (personal

using. This is where most fail and injuries occur. The “Do’s

protective equipment).

and Don’ts” are most important here. Be sure to have the

Safe behaviour fosters effectiveness in the work place.

proper containers, proper protective gear, and proper

Unsafe behaviour can be very costly to you personally

procedures. Products and procedures are designed to

and your employer. Generally breweries rely on having

work with one application. If this is not the case do not

you and your know how at work every day. If you are

increase concentrations. Let your supplier know ASAP so

injured and not able to perform your regular duties it

the issue can be diagnosed and the proper procedures

could affect your pay cheque and cause your co-workers

can be taken.

added work. Common sense is always your best guide and be sure to ask questions if you are unsure.

Labels have been scrutinized by governing bodies and compliance experts. The information on a label is accurate and truthful. The label should include all

Storage safety

WHMIS info, PPE info, concentrations, and directions.

Some suppliers may colour code their labels to ensure safety. FSA uses red labels to identify acidic products,

I

t’s important to keep all products separated and

blue labels to identify alkaline products, green to identify

segregated from each other. Best practice would be to

neutral product, and yellow labels to identify chlorinated

have all different products on spill containments. Make

products. The directions for use on the label may be

sure all chemicals are stored in a well ventilated area.

general instructions and you should have specific

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Spring 2018

Brewers Journal Canada

H a z ardous

Do Know how to receive, store and handle chemicals Read the labels and SDS's to become familiar with their application, safety and properties Know the maximum operating temperature of the chemical you are using Know which products are acidic, chlorinated, alkaline and neutral

C hemicals

C o mment

Don't Mix or store any acid with any chlorinated or alkaline product Add water to concentrated chemical, always add the chemical to the water slowly Use lightweight plastic pails when diluting chemicals Add chemicals to vessels at or above eye level

Mix chemicals in their proper use dilution

Mix chemicals without directions from your supplier

Wear recommended protection equipment when dispensing and using chemicals

Ever pressurize a shipping container

Teach safety by example: follow written procedures

Use chemicals above recommended temperatures

Know the proper methods of dealing with an injury related to chemical exposure

Store or dispense chemicals from an unlabeled container

Know where your safety equipment is

Use pumps to dispense more than one chemical

Know what to do in the event of a spill or accident

Transport liquid chemicals in open containers

concentrations written in your procedures manual. If you do not have a procedures manual speak with your supplier.

All employees should be WHMIS trained. If you are

Add chemicals to hot water unless following a written procedure with precautions Put concentrated chemicals on equipment (always use the correct concentration) Handle or apply chemical without proper protective clothing

using chemicals this training should be done annually. It is important to understand the different hazard symbols that you may see on products in a brewery. Risk phrases,

uninjured party helps the injured party to the emergency

precautionary measures and first aid instructions are on

eye wash.

each label inside the WHMIS hatched border. You will also

You must rinse your eyes for a minimum of 15

find the chemical hazards described under three broad

minutes. This will be uncomfortable for the injured party

headings of flammability, reactivity and health.

so if you are the person responding be sure to start

In the event of a spill

a timer or look at a clock. 15 minutes will feel like an eternity to the injured party but it’s an absolute must. If necessary contact an ambulance. It is important to know

T

what product injured the employee. Be sure to let the

he first thing to do is identify if there is a safety issue.

ambulance and/or ER know if it was an acidic or alkaline

If not then contain the spill. If you do feel there could

product that was involved.

be a safety issue evacuate the area and notify supervisor

Most breweries have very strong acids and alkaline

and/or contact your supplier. All chemicals used in a

products on site. Alkaline products are the caustic

brewery can go down the drain at use concentrations. If

products used to CIP clean. Acids can be used to remove

you have spilled concentrate chemical it is important to

beer stone, calcium, used in bright beer tanks and keg

get as much water in the area and down the drain. You

washers. Depending on the sanitizer you use it could be

can buy spill kits from your local safety supply store and

a very low PH as well. Below is a scale to give you an idea

it is always recommended to keep one on site. If the spill

of the different product you use. The caustics used for

is large contact an appropriate authority for clean-up.

brewery cleaning are generally 13+ on the PH scale and

Emergency contacts are on the label of all products.

acids below 2. Both can be very dangerous if not used

If you are the injured party do not move. Yell until you

In closing no job is unsafe if the proper procedures are

have someone’s attention so they can assist you. Begin

in place and being followed. You need to inform yourself

rinsing affected person with cold water immediately.

and respect the products you are using. If you have any

Rinse for an absolutely minimum of 15 minutes and longer

questions be sure to ask. If someone within your brewery

if pain persists. It is impossible to rinse too much! 15

does not have the answers contact your supplier. Specific

minutes is a must! If clothed areas are affected, remove

directions and procedures should be written for your

clothes as quickly as possible. Act decisively this is no

facility. Be sure to operate in a safe manor and happy

time for modesty. If the eyes are affected be sure the

brewing!

brewersjournal.ca

Spring 2018

15

C o mment

L iquor

L iability

R isk

M anagement

Prioritise the management of liquor liability risk Whether you are running a craft brewery, a restaurant or any hospitality business, the active management of liquor liability risk should be a priority. Otherwise, the future viability of your business could be at stake, explains Greg Strahl, partner at Palladium Insurance.

by Greg Strahl

T

he term ‘liquor liability’ is how risk managers and insurance professionals refer to the exposure faced

by those who serve or sell alcohol to the public. Failing to act responsibly when serving alcohol can result in expensive civil and possibly criminal litigation, as well as fines, increased insurance rates, loss of your liquor license, or even the loss of your business. In other words, not to be taken lightly.

The following are my top 10 tips for managing liquor liability risk: 1: Compliance with all applicable government regulations and laws is just the start when it comes to managing liquor liability risk. Know rules and follow them, always.

2: As soon as you become aware of a claim, or an incident that might turn in to a claim, take action and contact your insurance broker. ​ 3: If you don’t already have written policies and procedures for the proper handling and service of liquor now is the time to act. Once implemented, it is critical that those policies are strictly followed, and that there are serious consequences (i.e. dismissal) for those who flaunt them. You may be required by law to adopt certain policies and procedures, so be sure to check local regulations.

4: Develop and implement a stringent liquor

AN EFFECTIVE POLICY A well written policy will at a minimum include: • Hiring and continuously training experienced servers (document all training activity); • Never serve anyone who appears to already be intoxicated; • Never serve patrons beyond the point of intoxication; • Ensure that food is readily available during all hours when liquor is being served; • Actively promoting the use of taxi, and ride hailing services; designated driver programs; • Posting notices in clearly visible areas that drinking and driving is not tolerated by management; • Train staff on how to properly refuse liquor service to patrons when necessary, and how to avoid or manage difficult situations before they get out of control; • When appropriate, hire professional security personnel or consider outsourcing this function to a third party contractor; • Strictly prohibit staff from consuming liquor while working (some establishments do not EVER allow staff to drink at their place of work); • Never serve anyone who appears to be underage and strictly enforce ID checking.

inventory system and adopt internal security protocols to ensure that any theft (shrinkage) is quickly detected

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Brewers Journal Canada

L iquor

L iability

R isk

M anagement

C o mment

by management. Shrinkage may mean staff are drinking

doorways. Staff must feel that management are fully

while on duty, or “over pouring” – either of which can lead

supportive of their decisions to cease service to patrons

to problems.

they believe to be intoxicated. In rare instances, it may be

5: Install surveillance cameras with continuous recording devices to monitor all public areas of your establishment, including the interior and exterior of the

necessary to escort problem customers off the premises, or even call to police when circumstances warrant.

8: Ensure that all staff who are involved in serving

premises (don’t forget the parking lots – which should be

alcohol have received current certification from the

well lit). If an incident does occur, immediately preserve

appropriate government body (e.g. Smartserve https://

any video evidence for future reference.

www.smartserve.ca/). Certification must always be

6: Make sure every new employee is provided a written copy of the policies and procedures regarding

current and fully documented in employee files.

9: Use a maintenance log to document snow and ice

the responsible serving of alcohol, and have them sign a

management measures around entrances and parking

receipt to acknowledge they have received a copy. Retain

facilities. Retain those logs for at least two years.

this documentation in the employee file for future use

10: Develop a written incident reporting procedure, and

and update it annually, or whenever training has been

train staff in its proper use. This easy to use tool could be

refreshed.

your best friend in the event of a claim.

7: Staff must be trained to identify the signs of

Whether you are running a craft brewery, a restaurant

intoxication: difficulty speaking or walking, speaking too

or any hospitality business the active management

loudly or slurring; argumentative or offensive behavior

of liquor liability risk should be a priority. The future

toward other patrons or staff, impairment of hand-eye

viability of your business could be at stake. Speak to

coordination (i.e. difficulty retrieving bills from a wallet),

your insurance broker and review your liability insurance

dropping things or leaning heavily against counters or

coverage as well as your risk management practices.

brewersjournal.ca

Spring 2018

17

C o mment

Mar k e t

Fo r c es

The Price of Entry into the Beer Market Over the past 20 years, Roger Mittag has witnessed a great deal of change.

But the one that disturbs him the most, he explains, is the common practice of providing an inducement to a licensee to be listed at their bar.

Let me explain why this whole situation will lead to the demise of this industry in the long run.

Let’s assume a 50 litre keg costs $200 (no deposit or tax). If you factor in excise tax, provincial taxes etc., that should leave you with $100 gross profit. If you sell three kegs, this equates to a gross profit of $300.

However, your deal of 1 in 3 has now cut your profit to $66.66 per keg once you factor in the free keg. Taking into consideration that the cost to distribute your beer in

by rOGER mITTAG

retail can often reach the $50-80 per hectoliter rate, you are now paying more money to have your beer listed on draught. By the way, draught beer in Canada is only 10%

G

ranted, the horrible (and illegal) practice of providing money to secure a place at a drinking establishment

goes well back into the 1800’s.

In 1997, when I started my career with the Oland

of the entire beer volume produced and sold.

Once upon a time, craft brewers never would have fathomed paying for business and therefore the larger brewers owned the market. Now, we see craft beers

Specialty Beer Co., it was against company policy to seal

everywhere but are they really displacing the big brewers

a commitment with a ‘keg deal’. In fact, our leadership

in the greater scheme of things. I don’t think so. They will

team went so far as to warn us of termination if we were

continue to spend money acquiring draught lines and

caught doing this. Of course, in this industry, much of

they are also hedging their bets by acquiring a series of

what we play in is a massive ‘grey’ area and it’s quite

smaller breweries which expands their portfolios.

simple to move around the legalities.

There are many ways to show support for a good

The only way to succeed in this market is to take a different approach; One of education, knowledge and

customer and I firmly believe that relationships built

relationships. Consumers are enjoying the variety of

between brewery sales people and their clients are the

beers available right now making the constant change

heart of this business. Providing a financial reward is not

of brands a necessity. However, brewer loyalty will

building a relationship, it is simply providing a benchmark

soon become more important and having an emotional

that your competitors will relish in removing. A marketing

attachment to the brewery and the beer will take over

fund is essentially the same as an inducement but it

from this constant stage of innovation. Money given at

functions completely differently. It requires that you

all cost to a licensee is not the way to succeed. You will

establish a value for the volume your customer will sell

need to hold true to your policies, ethics and morals and

in a year. Once you’ve figured that number out, you

quite often say no.

should be able to create a calendar of events (music,

Lastly, invest in good people. Find sales people with

promotional activity, glassware, training etc.) that will

passion who are interested in learning and developing

support and develop brand loyalty within that customer’s

relationships. Pay them well with a salary and bonus and

premises.

train the hell out of them. Straight commission seems

The beer market is a volatile and extremely

like a good choice when you are starting out but this

competitive arena these days and while we were

often leads to a sale with no future potential in sight and

historically only used to seeing the inducement game

massive A/R problems down the road.

played by larger brewers, it is not uncommon to see

If you want to play the game, changes the rules so

this uncontrolled spending in the craft sector. This is a

they meet your needs and conditions. Every financial deal

game that you cannot win. I’ve heard everything from

you set up with a customer has its limitations and will and

$150 a keg to a deal of 1 in 3 being offered by brewers

can be broken with the next bidder. I am still hopeful that

and often demanded by customers. One brewer told me

we can build a strong beer industry together but it means

that a customer of theirs actually wanted a rental fee per

we will need to think hard about the decisions we make

draught line for a year. This begs the question that if you

and the strategy necessary to succeed.

are renting the line, do you then get access to the profits?

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Spring 2018

Roger Mittag is the President of Thirst For Knowledge.

Brewers Journal Canada

S e am i n g

C o mment

The Importance of Checking your Seams If you are a brewery that cans beer its beer, you need to be proactive in checking your seams because once problems arise, it’s usually too late, explains Jeff Rogowsky, the founder of Sessions Craft Canning.

seams and hope for the best. This usually happens when new start up breweries buy used equipment and are not properly trained on how to check seems. Needless to say, this method only works for so long.

To ensure the integrity of the seam, regular testing during packaging is required. The seam or double seam consists of the body hook, cover hook, thickness, width, overlap & countersink depth.

by Jeff Rogowsky

The tools you need to check your seams can range from a few hundred dollars (for a basic micrometer, a file, a pair of snips and needle nose pliers) to upwards

O

of twenty thousand dollars for CMC-Kuhnke state of the

ne of the biggest product recall issues a brewery

art seam view software that will give you the ability to

can face when canning their beer is due to a leaky

track and monitor several seamers and canning lines at

seam or seal. This happens during the canning process

once. The specs that you need to check for each of the

when the lid or “end” does not fully seal properly with the

measurements are all listed on the major can supplier’s

body of the can.

websites and even with the basic tools you are able to get

Often times this goes unnoticed during packaging as most canning lines move fairly quickly and canning

some important data to start tracking your seams.

A canning line consists of many moving parts and

happens when the beer is very cold. When the brewery

as with any packaging equipment, parts tend to wear

is done packaging for the day, the beer is stacked up

out over time and equipment will need adjustments.

nicely on pallets and then shipped out to the various retail

As a general rule, the seamer on your canning line will

outlets.

start to drift out of spec with regular usage and the only

As the beer starts to warm up, the CO2 inside the beer

way you will notice if you need to make adjustments to

begins to expand creating more pressure on the inside

your canning equipment is if you are able to track those

of the can. It’s the combination of the pressure building

can seam specs on a daily basis and record the data.

up inside the can and the slight imperfection of the seam

Once you detect those measurements starting to shift

that will result in the leaky can. Usually this problem is

then it’s time to call up your canning line manufacturer

noticed too late, often times by consumers or retail store

and let them know you will need some more advanced

staff.

maintenance.

The sign of a leaky seam can sometimes be visually

At Sessions Craft Canning, all of our canning line

detected as you will start to see sticky beer on the

operators are trained with the basic tools for daily seam

outside of the can near the top seal. If you’ve ever opened

checks and we also have the higher end CMC Kuhnke

a can of beer and its completely flat that could also be

seam view software to confirm our numbers and to

due to a leaky seam. In either case, this is not what you

store historical data on our 4 canning lines. We have also

want to happen.

implemented a complimentary service for breweries who

The good news is that with a few easy to implement quality control procedures the problem of leaky cans is easy to avoid. The bad news is that a lot of breweries still

have their own canning lines to be able to check their seams using our equipment.

The bottom line is that if you are a brewery who cans

use the “cross your fingers and pray” method of checking

beer you need to be proactive in checking your seams

seams which means they essentially do not check their

because once problems arise, it’s usually too late.

brewersjournal.ca

Spring 2018

19

C o mment

keg

vs

cask

Style and Substance There are a number of different technical reasons for choosing cask or kegs for dispense but for many, the choice still often comes down to image, argues Dr Keith Thomas from Brewlab.

not essentially associated with keg – filtration and pasteurisation. Big brewery production uses kegs as a convenient vessel to hold filtered or pasteurised beer because they can be filled easily without contact with air and don’t have unhygienic closures of wood and plastic.

As a result sterile, bright and brewery carbonated beer can remain sterile for weeks and be easily connected in the pub without the need for yeast settling. As such

by Dr Keith Thomas

they are ideally suited to mass production and rapid processing.

W

They are also suited to small brewery beers which are hat image does your brewery

also filtered if the brewery wishes to produce specialist

choose to illustrate its beer? For

styles such as continental lagers, stouts and a wide

many this will be a pint of ale on

variety of international beers traditionally served in such a

a bar, in a drinkers hand or pulling

manner. Keeping such beers sterile and away from air is

frothily from a beer engine.

essential and difficult to achieve in a cask. More complex

In others it may be beer exiting from the brewery or

delivering to the pub. If the latter what vessel is shown, cask or keg? For 100% of UK breweries I would bet casks are well to the foreground, even in larger SIBA producers.

In this view cask is the epitome of craft brewing.

filling, and cleaning, systems will be needed with kegs but are not impossible.

However, this doesn’t mean that kegs can’t be used for beer containing yeast. Kegs contain two openings within their central boss. The inner draw tube allows

Traditional, solid and reliably historic the image of a cask

beer to be pushed out of the cask while the surrounding

says: “This is beer as perfected over centuries, no high

sleeve is connected to a gas inlet. This typically receives

tech input, just skilled down to earth goodness. Drink me

CO2 under high pressure to push the beer out. However,

now to share in the delight”. The message is even better

it can just as easily be left open to allow air into the keg

if the casks are wooden but stainless steel still carries the

while the beer is pulled out by a beer engine in the same

impression and generates the salivation.

was as from a cask. Despite their different connections

Kegs, in contrast proclaim the intrusive finger of

casks and kegs are just vessels.

technology, of high pressure fizz and, due in no small part

A more pertinent issue is whether kegs would allow

to high pressure consumer campaigning, vile flavours and

cask ale to undergo secondary conditioning. Again being

evil intentions.

just a vessel there is no reason why it shouldn’t. Kegs can

The truth of all this depends on your preconceptions

be filled through the central spear and sealed before

and doesn’t always hold up in the clinical conditions of

dispense. Carbonation can develop during storage and

a blind tasting of the same beer dispensed from the two

be released from the gas inlet by venting. They do in fact

containers. Moreover, what of new and novel beers which

have a major advantage in being easy to flush with CO2 or

may have advantages from keg technology? Do kegs

mixed gas before filling so minimising the potential for

intrinsically degenerate beers or could some be suited to

oxidation and staling.

their form? The interest of some brewers in adopting keg

Filling against a gas blanket shouldn’t be an

technology suggests that they may have advantages. If so

infringement on cask ale. Most large breweries and many

then what?

others do this with casks anyway. A more protective

To objectively compare cask and keg it is necessary to separate the processing which is commonly but

20

Spring 2018

procedure would be to couple the gas input line to a demand valve in the cellar. This device allows CO2 or

Brewers Journal Canada

keg

mixed gas into the keg (or cask) as a strict replacement for beer removed and so again limits oxidation and

vs

cask

C o mment

features we fight to control from gyle to gyle.

Cask geometry is no guarantee of clarity. Beer is

staling. Although contentious to purists the carbonation

commonly dispensed from upended casks via siphons

in the beer still results from yeast activity and doesn’t

and numerous experiments show kegs to be equally

compromise the purity of cask ale being beer containing

effective in delivering clear cask conditioned beer. In fact

active live yeast.

a coarse filter on the outlet sleeve can reduce the yeast

So far kegs can be regarded as simply different shaped vessels for cask ale to conduct its traditional action of

removed.

As long as external pressure is not applied to keg

secondary fermentation. Perhaps the major difference in

beer there is no reason it cannot perform as well as cask

effect on cask beer is a result of their shape rather than

dispense. Add pressure, however, and there will inevitably

their dispense system.

be differences – although not necessarily negative.

Casks are cask shaped to allow yeast to settle in their

Carbonation is accepted as a major factor in beer quality

belly and not in the tap. This maximises the volume of

and a lightly carbonated keg beer is likely to be better

clear dispensed beer. With a small area for settlement

received than a flat cask pint. However, we are straying

this compresses the sediment so minimising the potential

out of the accepted criteria for cask ale and a more highly

for resuspension if the cask is disturbed. In a keg the

carbonated keg beer will alter character considerably.

sediment will be spread across the base of the vessel and be more easily drawn into the outflowing beer.

While this is a reasonable hypothesis it is also subject

Whatever the technical reasoning for choosing cask or kegs for dispense the choice for many of us is often still due to image. The cask at rack or the cask on dispense

to a number of influences which may overlap cask and

capturing far more of brewing romance than a keg and

keg effectiveness. Yeast sediment volume depends

flowjet valve. That said it hasn’t taken long for plastic

not only on cask geometry but yeast strain, yeast

casks to be accepted as another feature of technical

concentration, fining dosing and effectiveness, age and

progress so perhaps the keg does have a future, if only in

character of the beer and possibly another dozen other

the background of your deliveries.

HOW CLEAN ARE YOUR KEGS?

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brewersjournal.ca

1/9/18 2:58 PM

Spring 2018

21

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

Th e

E xc han g e

Robin Ridesic founded The Exchange Brewery with one goal in mind. To be known and respected for their barrelaged sours, as well as their hoppy IPAs, just like the breweries she loves and admires. And now as they enter their third year, with a brewing team led by head brewer Sam Maxbauer and brewer Christine Nagy, they’re doing just that.

B r e wery

meet

the

b r e w e r

honest, Ontario is growing but it’s still a fair bit behind lots of the US. “There is so much potential to work together for everyone’s benefit.”

It’s a sentiment shared by Ridesic who, after the first two years trading, is comfortable with the brewery’s position and is looking forward to what the future holds.

“We’re starting to grow as a business. We’ve passed those initial growing pains and now have that confidence to look ahead, plot where we’re going and where we want to be,” she says.

Ridesic is a former home brewer who was hit with that inescapable lightbulb moment while she was living in the

by TIM SHEAHAN

US. The moment that said “You should open a brewery”.

“It was an idea I fell in love with,” she explains. “It was

C

in the mid 2000s and I was trying all of these fantastic

alifornia’s Russian River Brewing Company

IPAs and boundary-pushing sour beers. But you’d look to

is one of those rare finds. A brewery, so

Ontario at that time and for the most part, it was all bland

often revered for its Pliny the Elder and

lager controlled by the Labatts and Molsons of the world.”

Pliny the Younger IPAs but one that is also treasured for its barrel-aged output. Be that

At a similar time, family happened. Marriage followed by the birth of her first child placed the brakes on opening

a strong dark ale aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels,

a brewery. Then the birth of a second child followed but

or a sour aged in Pinot barrels, the level of adulation

for Ridesic, this didn’t slow her plans further but instead

received by Vinnie and Natalie Cilurzo’s brewery towards

was the catalyst to push on and pursue her dream.

its diverse range remains the same. And any brewer

“My love for sour beers made it important for me to

would know the time, skill and art that's required to nail

start with someone that knows their stuff from the off. I

one type of beer. But to be respected globally for even

posted the job everywhere but for the most part, people

more than that? That takes some beating.

that know their sours are held onto very, very closely,” she

It’s hardly surprising then to see so many great breweries in their own right having taken inspiration from the good work the Cilurzos and their team have been doing in Santa Rosa these past decades.

“When we started, we set out with the idea of being

laughs.

But a can-do attitude lead Ridesic to taking a direct approach.

“I called up Jolly Pumpkin Artisanal Ales (the wellregarded Dexter, Michigan-based sour beer producer)

the Russian River of the north,” proclaims Robin Ridesic,

and spoke to Sean Brennan, who was their lead brewer

founder and CEO of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s The Exchange

at the time. And I asked him if he’d like a take a new

Brewery. “They were a massive inspiration. To be as

opportunity and come work with us!” says Ridesic.

awesome as you are at West Coast IPAs as you are sour

New beginnings

beers is a real skill. They know what drinkers want and we wanted to do the same here in Canada.”

And now, two years young, the Queen Street-based brewery can take pride that it’s offering local drinkers just that. Variety across styles but most importantly, underpinned by quality.

The Exchange is a brewery and tasting room located in Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Old Town heritage district. While the town is known as the heart of Ontario’s wine country,

B

rennan, now at Diageo, politely declined but said he knew someone that might be interested. That was his colleague Sam Maxbauer and thankfully

for Ridesic, he was ready to up sticks, grasp the challenge and go on that new adventure some 500km east.

“Of course, it was a difficult decision to make the move.

it is also the scene of a burgeoning craft-brewing industry.

But I’m happy I did!” he says. “It was a new experience

And as The Exchange grows and evolves, Ridesic along

for me and the be involved in a brewery from the very

with head brewer Sam Maxbauer are excited about the

formative stages, building it from the ground-up, was

flourishing scene they are part of.

something I always wanted to so.”

“We’d love more breweries in our area. In my opinion,

Maxbauer adds: “I learned an awful lot from my time

the more the better. If we can become something of a

at Jolly Pumpkin, especially with the expansion they were

destination for people that enjoy great beer, then that is

going through. I was managing the brewing, managing

only a good thing,” Maxbauer explains. “If more breweries

the cellar, taking samples from barrels and ensuring

pop up, then we will aim to support them because let’s be

things were tasting good and progressing as they should.

brewersjournal.ca

Spring 2018

23

meet

24

the

Spring 2018

b r e w e r

Th e

E xc han g e

B r e wery

Brewers Journal Canada

Th e

E xc han g e

But ask any brewer and to be given free rein is something

B r e wery

meet

the

b r e w e r

Beer Snapshot

they’d dream of. To start my own sour programme is what interested me, to not have established brands but instead be responsible for establishing them was very liberating.”

Ridesic ensued that Maxbauer was fully-involved when The Exchange Brewery was still at an idea stage.

And like many successful breweries, that was a key move in ensuring the operation started life as smoothly as possible, and continued that way.

Amber Ale This amber ale has a subtle hop backbone that shows off a complex malt character with crystal malts from Chile. They display the common characteristics of carmel, toffee and lightly roasted flavors of crystal malts but with more depth and presence.

“It was so important to have Sam involved before we even started production. If he was to oversee the brewing side of the business then it was essential he influenced the flow, design and feel of the brewhouse. We wanted what he wanted!” she explains.

Porter This robust porter features roasted UK malts, Chilean caramel malts and East Kent Golding hops.

Ridesic notes that brewery’s Queen St facility offers a sufficient production space but also one that’s on the tight side, so working closely with Californias Criveller Group on the commission on the 10bbl brewhouse was integral.

The brewhouse is complemented by five double-sized fermenters and eight serving vessels running that run straight to its draft lines.

White IPA Our White IPA is centered around big fruity hops, classic wit spices of orange peel and coriander, all fermented on our Belgian house yeast. Dry hopped and served fresh as an IPA should be.

“It needed to be nimble, but well-designed. And it is both of those,” she says.

From the off, the company’s mission statement has been to focus on making exceptional craft beers using only the highest quality ingredients, such as local Niagara

Foreign Exchange Stout Big and complex maltiness with hints of molasses backed with hefty bitterness and light fruit notes from UK Pilgrim hops.

fruits. Its selection includes a range of American styles along with sour and funky Belgian-style beers and ales.

A cursory glance at recent beers the brewery have available include its Golden Ale. Dry with a light fruity nose. This beer, the company says. may be the cross-over

Double IPA Hop-heads rejoice! An ExB hop-bomb with layers of tropical fruit flavours and a palate coating bitterness. Surrender your tongue…

point for some wine drinkers. Fermented with its house belgian ale yeast then aged in french oak barrels with brettanomyces.

Elsewhere, its take on a Witbier showcases the collaboration of wheat, spices and yeast. Use of malted and raw wheat give this ale great wheat character and slight haze. Orange peel and coriander play nice with their Belgian house yeast. All aged in Hungarian oak.

Witbier This brew showcases the collaboration of wheat, spices and yeast. Use of malted and raw wheat give this ale great wheat character and slight haze. Orange peel and coriander play nice with our belgian house yeast. Aged in Hungarian oak.

On the other side of the beer spectrum, a Session IPA is complement by an 8.5% Double IPA brewed with Amarillo, Centennial and Saaz.

According to Maxbauer, fermentation capacity for such hoppy beers is at a manageable point at present, but its the barrel-aged output that grows and grows. With that, so does the fermentation requirements. Early on the

Golden Ale Dry with a light fruity nose. This beer may be the cross-over point for some wine drinkers.

Fermented with our house belgian ale yeast then aged in french oak barrels with brettanomyces.

in the life of The Exchange Brewery, it boasted a cellar equipped with two large German-made Hungarian oak Foeders and 50 French oak wine barrels obtained from the Pearl Morissette Winery in Jordan.

Now the team utilises off-site storage that houses 180 wine barrels. Of course, patience is a virtue when it comes to such beers so as the beer portfolio at The Exchange grows, so does the need to increase the ability to enable

brewersjournal.ca

Session Saison This low alcohol saison is the perfect introduction to belgian-style beers. Lightly hopped with Vanguard and Crystal, this beer lets pepper and clove flavors of our house yeast shine with subtle oak flavors. Aged in large oak vessels with Ontario-grown hops.

Spring 2018

25

that. And that means more quality barrels.

“Barrel aged and sour beers will always be our focus,” explains Maxbauer. “Our brewers are all phenomenal

drink, too. It needs to be interesting and that is paramount.

While we’re small, we want to keep on our toes,” he says.

But just as the team are producing a wide range

and they’re also getting great experience working with

of pales and IPAs, they’re also exploring 100% Brett

the barrels. I think we’ll see the Barrel-Aged programme

fermentation when previously Brett fermentation was

continue to play a very large part but that doesn’t mean

often a secondary process in barrel.

the “hoppy” side of what we do can’t be popular, too.”

He adds: “Having left the US around four years ago,

“We want to keep people guessing,” he says.

And just as Maxbauer wants brewing to be both

the insatiable appetite for hoppy beers was a strong as

proactive and reactive, Ridesic and the team have an eye

ever. But I think that’s somewhat levelling out now and

on the inevitable; new entrants to the market producing

in turn, you’re seeing lots of barrel programmes pop up.

sour beers.

Now, if you’re a US brewery without a few barrels out the

“We’re excited about new breweries coming along and

back then people look at you funny. Here in Ontario, we’re

doing those types of beers because collectively, we can

probably 5-10 years behind some of those outfits. But I

raise our profiles and with it, the profile of sour beer. But

believe that we’re at the front of Barrel-Aged scene, rather

the beer has to be good. We need to avoid a situation

than being at the end of IPA one.”

where people are looking into barrel programmes for the wrong reasons,” she says.

Changing market

Ridesic adds: “The worst outcome is to have the market flooded with bad sour beers. All it takes is one,

M

axbauer explains that the ongoing popularity of

write off that brewery, but the wider scene. We need to do

hoppy, hazy beers has kept the brewing team

our best to educate people, and ensure other brewers are

on their toes and it’s inevitable that the brewery

doing all they can to learn their craft and put out the best

responds in kind to what resonates and sells well.

“It’s a case of going with what sells but what we like to

28

maybe two poor experiences and a customer won’t just

Spring 2018

beer they possibly can.

“We’re all in this together.”

Brewers Journal Canada

M eet

T he

B r e w e r

J u n cti o n

C r af t

B r e wi n g

On The Right Track Tom Paterson and Doug Pengelly have been on a seven year-long journey with Junction Craft Brewing but they’ve finally arrived at their destination. With increased capacity, high-end capabilities and a fully-fledged events space, the team are looking to the future and making a mark in Ontario, Manitoba and beyond.

Pengelly, the duo have finally got somewhere they can truly call home.

Oh, and a decent-sized patio where they can now serve drinkers without the assembled crowds encroaching into public space....

Junction Craft Brewing has just moved into its new site. The team have ten brews under their belt and they packaged two of them in their new home that is lovingly known locally as The Destructor. The Symes Road site in Toronto was originally built in the early 1930s under the guidance of RC Harris, Toronto’s longest serving

by Tim Sheahan

Commissioner of Public Works. It was originally a rubbish incinerator, but it’s a building that was clearly created

S

with care and attention. And it’s something the team

leeping again. I’m looking forward to

at Junction are keen to show off in its new guise as a

sleeping again.”

destination brewery.

Tom Paterson is looking forward to

But rewind some seven or so years and the Junction

getting a full night’s rest and….dare he say

Craft Brewing story was just getting started. Paterson had

it, relax. Because for Paterson, seven years

recently restored The Paddock Tavern, a former juke joint

after he founded Junction Craft Brewing with Doug

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Spring 2018

at 178 Bathurst St, to its former glory.

Brewers Journal Canada

J u n cti o n

C r af t

A fan of good beer, he wanted the Toronto landmark

B r e wi n g

M eet

T he

B r e w e r

THE BEERS

to serve local craft brews. At that time, Doug Pengelly was running a one-man local brewery that was making a name for itself thanks to well-made, quality beers.

And as Paterson and Pengelly increasingly talked beer on delivery days, the wheels of the vehicle that would become Junction Craft Brewing started turning.

The brewery officially launched in 2011, with the team’s first beer, a 5.3% beer light amber in colour called

Conductor’s Craft Ale, being brewed and kegged at Wellington Brewery in Guelph, Ontario.

Conductor’s Craft Ale We used 5 malt and five hop varieties from Europe and North America to give Conductor’s a biscuity, toasted, caramel base, and a dry and bitter taste with a light bitter finish. Floral and citrus notes come from our hopback mechanism that infuses the hop aromas into the beer in line from the kettle as the beer goes into the fermenter.

Drinkers took to the beer and within a year, Conductor’s was served on tap at 50 spots in Toronto’s west end so towards the end of the following year, Paterson and Pengelly took the decision to build its first brewery Cawthra Avenue in Toronto’s Junction neighbourhood and right across from the rail tracks.

“Like the little engine that could, our first operation was a small, efficient sparkplug of a brewery. On the outside, we were considered a commercial brewhouse,” says

Engineer’s Ipa Showcasing four American West Coast hops and four English and Canadian malts, Engineer’s is an IPA that’s bold, complex and finely balanced. Citrus and tropical fruit aromas are accented by pine-scented hops, and dry hopping promotes hop aromas without adding bitterness.

Paterson. “In our hearts and minds, this was a phase for piloting, experimenting and shaping our identity. Our 3 hL brewhouse gave us the space to develop the recipes that have given us our reputation for variety."

He adds: “In the first full year of nanobrewery operation, we made 230 brews with over 90 unique recipes. We saw how licensees were responding to their customers’ growing taste for diversity in craft beer. More pubs and restaurants were establishing rotating draught lines to

Stationmaster’s Stout Deep, dark and with a smooth distinctive dry finish, Stationmaster’s Dry Stout is brewed in the classic Irish style. Pouring jet black with a rich tan head, the beer showcases Weyermann dark malt with a toasty bittersweet coffee flavour and earthy British hops for balance.

keep their offerings fresh and unique.

“We met that demand, because Junction’s dedication to diversity allows us to do things other breweries simply can’t. In 2014, we made 441 brews. In 2016, we added more tank capacity and brewed 599 small batches. At the same time, we continued the contract brewing of

Conductor’s Craft Ale as sales escalated.”

The team also enjoyed success as its offering grew steadily within the LCBO network. The launch of 473 mL cans of Conductor’s Craft Ale in June 2013 was followed a year later with its second core beer, Brakeman’s Session Ale. And last year, Engineer’s IPA joined the lineup, swiftly complemented by the Trainspotter Craft Lager launched in May 2017.

But selling beer to more than 150 licensees and a burgeoning range that includes Stationmaster’s Stout, Junction Road Black Lager, West Toronto Weizen, and Trainspotter Craft Lager, it became an inevitability that a move was on the cards. It was only so long a 3hl brewhouse and a contract brewing arrangement could sustain the engine room of Junction Craft Brewing.

And that led the team to 150 Symes Road.

“Harris believed that civic architecture should be a source of community pride, and the classic Art Deco building certainly reflects this,” says Paterson.

brewersjournal.ca

Tracklayer’s Kolsch Tracklayer’s Kolsch is our take on the classic style that has been brewed in and around Cologne, Germany for the last 100 years. Pale, dry and traditionally lagered, Tracklayer’s balances a light fruitiness with biscuity malt notes, delivering a smooth, highly drinkable beer. Brewed with imported malt to a light straw colour.

Hey, Porter!

Porters originated in 18th century London, raised by the hardworking hands of street and river porters over generations. A Gold Medal winner at the 2017 Canadian Brewing Awards, Hey Porter! pours a dark brown and is medium-bodied with aromas of roasted malt and cocoa.

Brakeman’s Session Ale Bright, crisp, and definitely quaffable, Brakeman’s delivers a smooth hop aroma from the very first sip, and finishes dry with thirst quenching character.

Spring 2018

31

M eet

T he

B r e w e r

J u n cti o n

C r af t

B r e wi n g

Pengelly commissioned Quebec’s IAI to produce its

will also be handled under one roof as well the option for

new custom-built 25hl brewhouse. Originally the plan was

other fledgling breweries to have their beers produced on

to hold on to its original kit but an opportunity arose to sell

the new kit.

it on so the duo made the decision.

“We opted for IAI as they are great at what they do.

In addition to a fully-fledged events space that will be utilised for occasions such as Oktoberfest parties ,

They’re not your standard brewhouse manufacturer

Paterson is enthused by the opportunity to draw upon

and don’t generally do them but Doug had lots of

his expertise in the restaurant trade and invite some of

specifications on what he wanted the new system to

the best dining spots to take residence at Junction on a

be,” says Paterson. “Other manufacturers will offer you

rotating basis.

a system and tell you that’s how it should work, but IAI allowed us to customise it to our own requirements.”

The brewhouse, along with fermenting capacity will

“Food is something we haven’t really pursued before and that was an active decision. It was nice to get away from the food trade for a time but in this day and age,

up Junction’s annual production capabilities from 2000hl

good food is such an important part of the brewery

to at least 12,000hl to start. Part of this jump comes from

experience and we want it to be a big part of what we

bringing back the volume contracted to Wellington in-

do, too,” he says. “But we didn’t want to do standard pub

house for the first time. Kegging, canning and bottling

food either. We’ve developed lots of great relationships

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Brewers Journal Canada

J u n cti o n

C r af t

B r e wi n g

M eet

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B r e w e r

with the restaurants that sell our beer so it makes sense

The sense of history and heritage is alive and well at

to collaborate and have them take over the kitchen. The

Junction Craft Brewing, from the building it inhabits to the

food offering can rotate just like the beers we offer and it’ll

area it calls home. But the duo, ably assisted by they team

give people a reason to come back time and time again.”

of 25, are now only looking forward.

Being part of the community is something that is

“It feels like the last seven years were all about

incredibly important to Paterson and Pengelly. They’ve

experimentation. It was a playing ground to see what

seen the Ontario brewing scene grow from around 80 or

worked and what didn’t. So to be here in 2018, making a

so breweries in operation when they started out to more

living from what we do feels like an amazing feat,” says

than 250 in 2018. And when it came to making the site

Paterson. “However, we want to grow more locally and

move, the duo were adamant they were staying local.

elsewhere in Ontario and beyond, too. The beer scene

“We’re literally only five minutes away from our

is great, it’s in a good place at the moment and I’m very

previous site. I’m not a fan of associating your brand with an industry or an area and then disconnecting yourself

happy to be part of it.”

He adds: “Previously we’ve said it’s all about the journey,

from that will still trading on the name,” he says. “The

not the destination. But at this point, I’m pretty much done

junction is of such historical importance and we wanted to

with the journey and I’m more than happy to arrive at the

do our bit to keep that tradition.”

destination. I’m ready to get down to work.”

brewersjournal.ca

Spring 2018

35

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Q uality

C ontrol

Fo cu s

Focus on the finer details Fool me once, shame on you: fool me twice, shame on me. Putting out a bad beer once can be overlooked but doing it again can be considered unforgivable.

The brewing industry of 2018 requires each and every outfit to be on the top of their game, and that starts with the team giving the beer they produce the attention it deserves. brewersjournal.ca

T

he standard of something as measured against other things of a similar kind; the degree of excellence of something.'

The Oxford dictionary definition of quality is particularly pertinent in the brewing industry of 2018. Saturation in the marketplace and increased competition are parts of the industry that are fiercely debated, nearly as frequently as the discussions on how we define a craft beer or what constitutes a craft brewery.

Spring 2018

39

fo cu s

Q uality

C ontrol

It’s for good reason, too. The Canadian brewing

and taste to the branding, packaging and even to how

landscape continues to welcome more entrants but this

efficiently and effectively you invoice, communicate and

is also correlating with the regrettable decline of the

liaise with clients.

pub numbers. Drinking habits are changing and people

But if you ignore the quality aspect of the beer itself,

are drinking less. Yes, you can argue that certain groups

then you’re on a hiding to nothing. This makes quality

are drinking less but spending more on a higher quality

control at your brewery so imperative and soon, the

product when they do. But it’ll require a hell of lot more

absence of lab at your brewery, and an effective sensory

bottle shops to open, along with bar and pub operators

program, will see you falling behind the pack.

buying better beer, to ensure every brewery can get a

“In the world of beer quality, the tangibles really boil

large enough piece of the pie to sustain their business.

down to one critical thing: consistency. While consistency

And as the market continues to mature, supply of

in itself can encompass a broad range of aspects

good beer is stronger than ever. With that, drinkers are

around the entire brewing process from raw materials,

more demanding. They are less forgiving, too. A social

mash schedules, equipment design, fermentation to

media post of a brewery pouring away beer that isn’t up

conditioning, every brewer wants to maintain consistency

to scratch is greeted with a shrug and a retort of ‘So what,

of flavor,” explains Neva Parker, vice president of

as you should’, when previously such an act of disposal

operations at White Labs. “It is this very attribute that

would have been applauded.

has brought us the concepts around quality control: to

Having a great brand and, at times, great beer is

control and maintain the quality and consistency of beer.

no longer enough. You need both in perfect harmony

Because quality control can be such a broad topic, I

and drinkers will come to expect that. Sure, such is the

have addressed three essential quality control measures

insatiable appetite for the ‘new’ that consumers can look

needed for every brewery below.”

past a limited release or a seasonal number that swings and misses. But do that twice or more? You’ve probably lost that consumer for life and what’s worse, brought

High quality basic instrumentation to monitor the brewing process This may seem like a no-brainer, but it all starts at the

down the collective ‘craft’ beer industry with it. Especially

beginning. Have you ever had a temperature probe work

if the consumer was dipping their toes into the world of

incorrectly because it wasn’t calibrated regularly? What

good beer for the first time.

about a broken hydrometer? Or pH meter? Although all

As Alex Troncoso, co-founder of UK’s Lost and

of these tools are quite simple, they are essential. Having

Grounded Brewers, tells the Brewers Journal, the idea of

one that is poor quality or does not work properly will end

quality in beer encompasses everything from the aroma

badly.

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Spring 2018

Brewers Journal Canada

Q uality

Building Your First Brewery laboratory So you want to set up a brewery laboratory?

Because there are so many aspects to any brewery laboratory, the biggest uncertainty any brewery, big or small, may have is where to begin.

The most important initial decisions you need to address are what the goal is for your laboratory, what kind of staffing you will need to operate the laboratory, and what your budget will be for installing the laboratory.

Many breweries will start with basic quality control of their beer as a goal and expand to more analytical goals to maintain product consistency.

Whether building your first laboratory or expanding the laboratory you already have, every brewery should plan for a few critical laboratory functions, including microbiological control, yeast management, fermentation tracking, and good record-keeping. For a new brewery not able to implement this entire program right off the bat, here are some ideas to get you started, with some basic recommended equipment.

If this is your first laboratory, the best route to take is by starting with simple yeast management, which is essentially just using a microscope and some viability stain to view your yeast, perform cell counts for pitching rate calculations, and obtain viability data. Doing this routinely will help improve the consistency of your fermentations, but will require you to get a good microscope that is comfortable to use.

There are many microscopes on the market, and for a simple procedure like this, you will not need anything that is too robust. The key elements you should look for in a microscope are binocular (rather than monocular, to make viewing easier on your eyes), a mechanical stage (so that you can move your viewing slide around), and at least 400x magnification capabilities.

400x is all you will need to view yeast, but if you plan on viewing bacteria in the future, you will want to start with a microscope that can magnify up to 1000x. A good quality 400x microscope is priced $325-$450, while a 1000x microscope will be a couple hundred pounds more.

brewersjournal.ca

C ontrol

Fo cu s

In addition, you will need a few other accessories for cell counting, such as a hemacytometer (the counting chamber slide) and your viability stain. You can find a hemacyometer as inexpensive as $15 online, but the counting grids on these are much more difficult to find or see, especially if you are not an expert at using all of the settings on a microscope. The best kind to purchase is what is called a brightline hemacyometer, which will make viewing extremely effective.

To implement an effective microbiological laboratory, there are three essential pieces of equipment that you will need: a small scale (+/0.1gram sensitivity) to measure your dry media ingredients, a small autoclave or pressure cooker to sterilize media, and an incubator to incubate sample plates for microorganism growth.

Both the scale and autoclave/pressure cooker are fairly easy to find and do not have specific requirements in this case, other than finding one that is properly sized for your needs. The incubator should also be sized for your needs, but should also have good temperature control being able to maintain temperatures up to 35°C, +/- 2°C. Fermentation analysis is another critical piece on any brewery quality control program. Much of this involves simple tracking and record-keeping of fermentation performance for core beers and being able to identify deviations to normal yeast behavior. Although this does not necessarily require specific equipment to properly track fermentation metrics, development of a consistent method of record-keeping is critical.

Once you go down the rabbit hole of implementing your own brewery quality control program and building a brewery laboratory, the adventure never ends.

The basics are a substantial way to open the path to bigger and better laboratorys, including more precise and technological equipment to perform more precise and technological analysis on your beer. In the end, any level of brewery QC is a step in what every brewer wants, and that is great quality, consistent beer.

Neva Parker, VP of operations, White Labs

Spring 2018

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fo cu s

Q uality

C ontrol

Of these, looking at wort and beer gravity are critical and using instrumentation that is accurate is absolute.

Most brewers use simple hydrometers, because they are

glassware, a dedicated room to perform the sensory, and a well-trained team to evaluate your samples.

There are several software programs and even phone

fast and easy. I would recommend taking it a step further

apps now, that help you track and trend your sensory

and opting for a handheld digital density meter. These

results. These are amazing tools that will enable you to

are far more accurate, and can correct for temperature

visually analyze any flavor or aroma deviations. One that

and alcohol present in the sample. Density meters take

we use regularly is Gastrograph, and it’s free!

a little more work to maintain, but they will provide you

With anything that is done in the brewery, you can

with more precision when it comes to monitoring gravity

have the highest end equipment but never achieve good

during fermentation. These days, nearly every brewery

results without proper methods. Standard methods are

lab is also using spectrophotometry to analyze various

the backbone of quality control and luckily for us, there

steps in the process. Most spectrophotometers are

are standards out there. The most widely used industry

quite inexpensive and can allow a brewer to perform

methods come from the American Society of Brewing

basic analysis such as wort color and bitterness units to

Chemists (www.asbcnet.org) and the European Brewing

more complex analysis like free amino nitrogen. When

Convention (www.analytica-ebc.com), both of which can

shopping for a spectrophotometer, you will likely find

be accessed online. These are both great resources in

the most use from a benchtop UV/Vis as it combines

instrument usage and standard methods. ASBC also

flexibility of performing a wide variety of methods with

offers a check sample program, which allows breweries

affordability (it does not have all of the bells and whistles,

to perform analysis of varying methods using sample kits

but those are not needed in most cases).

sent to multiple breweries performing the same analysis

You also want to look for one that gives you reliable

to verify the consistency of the procedure as well as

and repeatable data. Some older or cheaper instruments

technical proficiency by the individual brewery. This is a

will cause your readings to “jump around�, resulting in

valuable opportunity for any brewery to evaluate their

results you cannot trust. There are also new models

interpretation and performance of the standard method.

that come with integrated software, which I would only consider if you plan to use the spec on an everyday basis.

A good sensory program does not necessarily rely on

Quality is an immense topic that could fill the pages of a book, and others have. Beer quality itself is sometimes intangible, that je ne sais qoi, which makes beer so

specific equipment, but it is very important to evaluate

complex and interesting. But in this universe, there are

your beer in order to identify any quality issues prior to

some things we can and should control and as brewers,

releasing. Here, the focus should be on good and clean

that is exactly what should be done.

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Brewers Journal Canada

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R ebellion

B rewing

b r e w e ry

to u r

Feel The Pulse Rebellion Brewing is making strides and testing boundaries with innovative creations that are making an impact and forcing people to rethink what kind of ingredients can be used to make the food and beverages we enjoy. Brewers Journal reporter-at-large Rod Charles visited the brewery. by rod Charles

beverage, the Lentil Cream Ale has a crisp, lemony taste with a slightly earthy feel. Heise may love a sweet rhythm but it's the groundbreaking music he and his team are making with their beer at Rebellion that has the province of Saskatchewan feeling the groove, and one way he is doing that is with his Amber and Lentil Cream Ale. Born and raised in Regina, Heise says like most Canadians he found his passion for beer at a young age and can remember drinking his first Samuel Adams Boston Lager in 1994 when he was 17. A certified judge and beer expert Heise has been pursuing his calling since 2006, winning awards and making a name for himself in Saskatchewan's growing craft beer industry along the

D

ressed in a KISS vest, dark glasses and

way.

“I got serious about craft beer in 2004 and started

sporting two thick sideburns Mark Heise

home brewing in 2005. In 2006 I got the courage to

looks like a man who literally fell off a

enter my first home brewing contest and I took second

Memphis stage. The look is surely by

place overall in that competition so I thought well, geez,

design as Heise, president of Rebellion

maybe I'm not so bad as a home brewer,” said Heise,

Brewing Company and his wife Joanne both love great

who won a trip to Chico, California and an opportunity

beer, punk rock, country music and real BBQ.

to brew a beer at Sierra Nevada Brewing Company. “I've

The first thought of most drinkers discovering

won quite a few best of shows here in Canada, Calgary,

Rebellion for the first time is: can you really make great

Lethbridge and out in Ontario but the two really big ones

tasting beer from lentils? Well, it seems it can be done.

are with the National Homebrew Competition (American

Made by pulses from AGT Food and Ingredients which

Homebrewers Association) in the United States. In 2009 I

contribute to the rich flavours and a creamy body of the

won a gold medal for IPA and in 2010 I won a silver medal

brewersjournal.ca

Spring 2018

45

b r e w e ry

to u r

R ebellion

B rewing

for sour beer. I think there are only two other Canadians

million hectares in 2011. The Saskatchewan Pulse Growers

who have ever won medals at that competition.”

report that Canadian production of the eight major

Rebellion Brewing rolled out its first beers in

pulse and special crops (pea, lentil, bean, and chickpea)

November 2014 and has a 20 hectolitre brewhouse

increased from 1,000,000 tonnes in the early 1990s to 5.7

which produces the equivalent of 6,000 bottles of beer.

million tonnes in 2014. With approximately 15,000 pulse

Rebellion has five year-round beers - Lentil Cream Ale

growers and 95 special crop processors in Saskatchewan,

and Amber Ale (tied for most popular brands), Blast Off!

the province is perfectly situated to produce lentil beer.

Blonde Ale, IPA and Oatmeal Stout. The Amber beer is

Saskatchewan Pulse Growers also says over 5 million

a really nice red, hoppy beer and their IPA and Oatmeal

tonnes of pulses were exported from Saskatchewan in

Stout earn the highest feedback on rating sites.

2016, valued at $3.5 billion. The countries that import the

They also make Prairie Cherry Mead which is not a

largest volume of pulses from Saskatchewan include

beer at all but a wine made from Saskatchewan honey

India, China, Turkey, Bangladesh, and the United States,

and sour cherries. Except for the hops that are imported

with peas and lentils making up the largest export

from Washington, the ingredients are all local, with the

volume.

honey coming from Tisdale and the cherries arriving from Lumsden. Rebellion releases 10-20 seasonal beers every year and self distribute their product across

In other words Saskatchewan, lentils and beer are a marriage made in heaven.

Heise saw an opportunity to “put his marketing hat

Saskatchewan to over 160 pubs, restaurants, and retail

on and create a bit of a game changer that could have

stores. They have no plans to export.

appeal” by using this beautiful yet underestimated

Several phenomenal selections are available at

ingredient to make great beer and it has worked

Rebellion Brewing but one that catches my attention is

spectacularly. Rebellion's lentil beer has garnered local

the Lentil Cream Ale because to be honest, I had never

respect and international attention. Tourists and fans

heard of it. One thing that the best craft breweries do is

love the brewery tours that are available every Saturday

make outstanding products from local ingredients and

afternoon. Rebellion also have a 'community tap' initiative

pulses are one thing Saskatchewan does well.

that has allowed the brewery to donate $25,000 to local

According to Statistics Canada, Saskatchewan was home to the largest pulse area in the country with 1.7

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charities.

“I actually flew out to Australia last year to work with

Brewers Journal Canada

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to u r

R ebellion

B rewing

a brewery that wanted to brew lentil beer so we agreed

as their tag line 'Be a rebel, drink great beer' catches on a

to collaborate together. We got national media attention,

with an expanding fan base.

a whole bunch of government officials involved, and the

“There was a pulse conference in Vancouver in June of

finished product actually has our logo on it,” says Heise,

last year, and (former Saskatchewan Premier) Brad Wall

who gave a nod to Nokomis Brewery, Malty National and

was talking about our lentil beer,” says Heise. “Next thing

Black Ridge as other breweries in the province that were

I know I received a text message from 12 businessmen

raising the bar. “As far as I know, before we started, there

from South East Asia who were at the conference and

were only a few folks out there making lentil beer. There

heard Mr. Wall speak. Next thing I know the conference

was a small brewery in Italy, another small brewery in

ends and these men immediately book a flight to Regina,

Portland, Oregon and of course the Australia brewery who

land at our airport, jumped in a cab and came right over

we helped. We are the only ones who make lentil beer.

to Rebellion to meet me and taste the beer. Most of them

Lentils are a big deal in Saskatchewan and that is one

didn't speak any English but they had a smile on their face

reason why we decided to go ahead with it. It was unique,

and they wanted a second glass of beer.”

no one else was doing it and Saskatchewan is such a huge producer of lentils and pulses.”

Those people aren't the only ones asking for a second glass. Rebellion continues to make strides and test

Heise has been canning his lentil beer for only three

boundaries with innovative creations that are making

months but already they have sold between 50 and 60

an impact and forcing people to rethink what kind of

thousand cans, which is pretty significant for a small

ingredients can be used to make the food and beverages

brewery. People are beginning to take notice and the

we enjoy. It's not difficult to see why beer fans in

opportunities for Rebellion to grow appear to be endless

Saskatchewan 'can't help falling in love' with Rebellion.

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NASHVILLE to host cbc The 35th edition of the Craft Brewers Conference & BrewExpo America comes to Nashville, Tennessee from April 30 – May 3. Here is the full lowdown on the event along with some of the key names to look out for during you visit.

N

ashville, Tennessee is home to some 684,000 people. That figure will swell by some 13,000 come April when the Craft Brewers Conference & BrewExpo America comes to town, and the event,

once again, looks like one not to be missed.

“As small and independent craft brewers face unique

opportunities and challenges in the marketplace, CBC allows them to connect with their colleagues and comrades to share ideas and learn about relevant topics ranging from brewery operations to sustainability and government affairs,” explains the Brewers Association, which presents the event.

More than 13,000 brewing industry professionals are expected to attend, presented with the opportunity to meet with 700 exhibitors and hear from a wide range of speakers during 70 seminars across 12 different educational tracks.

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This year’s educational seminars cover: Brewery Operations, Brewpub Marketing and Management, Export

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leaders in the national and international brewing arena.

"The trade show sets the stage for exhibitors and

Development, Government Affairs, Leadership (new in

buyers to develop profitable business relationships and

2018), Packaging Brewery Marketing and Management,

helps brewing and brewery restaurant professionals

Quality, Safety, Selling Craft Beer, Start-ups, Sustainability

encounter the latest and best products and services

and Technical Brewing.

that industry vendors have to offer,” explains the Brewers

Featured speakers include industry keynote address

Association.

speaker Deb Carey, founder and president of New Glarus Brewery, Paul Saginaw, co-owner and founding partner of Zingermans, Brewers Association Director Paul Gatza and Chief Economist Bart Watson, who will deliver the annual State of the Industry Address.

Essential Info

CBC 2018 also serves as home to the World Beer Cup, often referred to as “the Olympics of Beer.” It was

When

developed in 1996 to celebrate the art and science of brewing, this global competition continues to create greater consumer awareness about different beer styles and flavour profiles while promoting international brewing excellence.

Craft Brewers Conference Monday, April 30 – Thursday, May 3, 2018 Times vary. For a full schedule of events, visit the CBC conference schedule.

In 2016, 6,596 beers entered from 1,907 breweries representing 55 countries were entered in the World Beer

Events of note

Cup and were judged by an elite international panel of 253 judges from 31 countries. This year, the organisers, expect it to be even more competitive, as craft brewing continues to attract an even broader universe around the globe.

Tuesday, May 1 9:15 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. | General Session/ Keynote 1:30 p.m. – 3:40 p.m. | Seminars

Running alongside CBC is BrewExpo America, which is the trade show for craft brewers, providing the opportunity to connect with customers, vendors and

Wednesday, May 2 9:15 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. | General SessionState of the Industry/Keynote 1:30 p.m. – 3:40 p.m. | Seminars Thursday, May 3 9:45 a.m. – 11:00 a.m. | Members Meeting 11:30 a.m. – 3:20 p.m. | Seminars

BrewExpo America Tuesday, May 1: 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

Wednesday, May 2: 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

Thursday, May 3: 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.

Where Music City Center 201 Fifth Avenue South Nashville, TN 27203

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Exhibitors to watch Aesus Packaging Systems

A

esus Packaging Systems offers one of the most complete range of automatic labeling equipments, including shrink sleeve applicators,

Boelter Beverage

B

oelter participates in every aspect of the restaurant supply, hospitality, and beverage industries. From designing commercial kitchens

patented Hybrid shrink tunnels, inline pressure-sensitive

to delivering barware supplies, from installing food

labelers and rotary labelers (PS and cold-glue). Turn-

service equipment to staging the perfect tabletop – with

key solution for shrink sleeve application on cans and

our full spectrum of services and products we bring

bottles for speed ranging from 30bpm up to 400bmp.

inspiration to the table.

BrewWizz

Our patented Hybrid Shrink Tunnel is combining steam (with a built-in steam generator) and Infra-Red within the same chamber. All the benefits of steam without the downside and associated costs. A representative from IMS, a leading supplier of shrink sleeves and PS

B

rewWizz - Innovation for Craft Brewers, are the developers of the FIZZWIZZ™. Automated carbonationsystem that gives brewers much

labels, will be available to discuss the specifications of

more control over the quality of their final product.

the sleeve and label material, thus offering a complete

Brewers across North America use the FIZZWIZZ™

solution (machine-material) for the greatest benefit of

because it saves time, spillage, C02 and most importantly,

craft brewers.

produces repeatable reliable carbonation. Don’t forget to ask us about the WizzStone™ combo! The first easy to

ASL

clean and low maintenance carbonation stone assembly.

Check out our videos

A

SL’s focus is to deliver an exceptional Total

Burkert

Customer Experience. It starts with a highly trained, experienced, and well-supported

sales team that listens – and asks questions to ensure a complete understanding of your unique needs and objectives. We have an array of tools and resources to

B

urkert is a German-based manufacturer of valves, instrumentation and automated control systems with presence in 36 countries around the globe.

ensure you meet your goals, including a sophisticated

With the continued growth of craft brewing and the

prototyping system to facilitate the creative process. Our

natural fit of our core components and systems within the

robust internal processes and QA programs (including in-

craft brewing industry, Burkert Canada has developed the

house plant and ink manufacturing, colour management

capabilities to provide full turn-key,

and AVT systems) ensure we meet your targets each and

Country Malt Group

every run.

Atlantic Packaging

C

ountry Malt Group is your complete brewing solution. We are a one stop shop for all your

A

tlantic Packaging is a fully integrated supplier of corrugated packaging products. With a value proposition founded on service, Atlantic is a key

packaging supplier to many craft brewery brands in both Canada and the US. Atlantic’s innovative technology and print capabilities provide customers with the packaging solution they need, regardless of volume or designs with print specifications that range from 1 colour to 6 colour high definition graphics. Brewery customers will also benefit from Atlantic’s value added services including Vendor Managed Inventory programs with Just-in- Time delivery.

brewing needs and pride ourselves on putting

our customer's first. We are constantly applying new technology to make sure that using Country Malt Group is just like hitting the 'easy button'.

Cask Global Canning Solutions

C

ask Global Canning Solutions provides innovative and affordable canning systems to the world’s small and medium-sized creators of craft beer,

cider, wine, cold brewed coffee, kombucha and other life-enhancing beverages. We have installed 875+ canning lines in 46 different countries. Official supplier of Ball Corporation for printed aluminum cans to our customers.

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Charles Faram

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well as the needs of other beverage companies. We work to keep our costs down so we can provide the highest quality carriers and cartons at the best possible price,

H

op Merchants for over 150 years. Charles Faram

with quick turnaround times. We currently offer printed

has one of the largest range of hop varieties

or unprinted carriers for 4 and 6 packs, in the following

available from stock in both vacuum packed

volumes for both bottles and cans: 12oz, 16oz and 22oz.

leaf hops and Type 90 pellets. Varieties come from the

Choose either white or kraft stock to match your style and

UK, Belgium, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Poland,

branding.

Slovenia, New Zealand and the USA.Faram’s provides

Descon Conveyer

an artist’s palette of flavours to create every type and style of beer from the traditional varieties to exciting new developmental varieties from Faram’s own breeding and development programme. Our own varieties include Archer®, Godiva, Jester®, Minstrel® and Olicana®.

Coaster Factory

B

eer manufacturing is tough on conveyors and equipment. Descon understands this and manufactures conveyor systems and products

that can stand up to hard use day after day. We have tailored our products to meet the expectations and demands of beer production.

C

oaster Factory is your best choice for coasters:

DME Brewing Solutions

High Quality, Printing, Colors & Materials - Eco Friendly too! We manufacture the highest quality

custom beer coasters at affordable prices. Our offset presses print full color process (CMYK) on both sides of your coasters (spot colors available).

CPE Systems Brewing Systems

D

ME Brewing Solutions is the leader in the Craft Beer Brewing Industry with over 26 years’ experience and has become the preferred

supplier of equipment to craft brewing customers around the world. DME prides itself in being a customer’s best resource for the planning, design, fabrication,

W

e specialize in portable pumps for your

management, and successful execution for each unique

brewery and have many different models to

brewery project.

choose from. And yes we can customize your

First Key

pump with options like digital controls, wired and wireless remotes, and auto remote controls. We also have heat exchangers, valves, hoses and many other items you use daily in your brewery.

Criveller Group

F

irst Key is the leading brewing industry consulting firm. They have been operating for over 30 years and have worked in over 50 countries. They offer

a complete range of technical, commercial and financial services and have worked with breweries of all sizes.

F

or more than 30 years, Criveller Group has

Background information about their people, services,

provided exceptional services to complete brew

client references and examples of work can be viewed on

houses in all sizes and configurations for breweries

their website at www.firstkey.com. If you are in Nashville

around the world. In addition to new equipment and

for CBC you can visit them at Booth #1214 and also attend

stainless steel tanks, Criveller Group offers design

their seminar on Improving Your Brewery Performance on

services and technical support either onsite or over the

May 2nd from 11:30 -1:00pm in Room 205A.

phone. Criveller Group supplies best-in-class brewhouse

Georg Fischer

tanks, fermentation tanks, pumps, chillers, keg washers, keg fillers, distillation systems, bright tanks, bottling equipment, fillers, cappers, plate and frame filters, D.E. filters and heat exchangers.

Custom Drink Carriers

C

G

eorg Fischer our COOL-FIT Plus pre-insulated plastic piping system is designed with brewery glycol systems in mind. Georg Fischer is a 215

year old company and has been manufacturing plastic pipe, valves and fittings for over 55 years. COOL-FIT Plus

ustom Drink Carriers - a printing company

is a 3 in 1 piping system, is corrosion and maintenance

dedicated to producing the best carriers and

free and will completely eliminate condensation and

cartons. From small craft operations to larger

mold build up on your cooling system.

corporations, we understand the needs of brewers - as

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MacDonald Steel

M

SL/HDP equipment including pilot and production scale malting and brewing plants.

Single vessel and multi vessel malting plants.

Water houses including treatment , brew houses and

Specific Mechanical Systems

H

andcrafting the finest brewing and distilling systems for craft brewers and distillers since 1986. Welcome to Specific Mechanical Systems.

cellar tankage for breweries. Vapor condensers and

Since 1986, Specific Mechanical Systems has handcrafted

energy recovery solutions. Split and packaged chiller

brewing and distilling systems for the craft beer and

solutions.

spirits industries. Started as a two person company, those two founders remain owners and employee a team of

McRae Integration

over 85 people. Our mission is to provide the world’s finest handcrafted brewing and distilling systems.

M

cRae offers high level Automation technology

Stanpac Ink

to breweries big and small. Our PLC and SCADA services anchor a product line that includes

MES, Batch and brewing programming. Advanced reporting systems and brewing knowledge makes McRae a perfect fit for Brewers. We understand how a brewery works.

Newlands Systems

S

tanpac ink introduces its new state-of-the-art glass container printing facility in Smithville, Ontario.

Stanpac can decorate virtually any glass container

using either conventional applied ceramic inks, precious metals and now organic and UV inks for advanced colour brilliance and exciting process printing effects.

S

ince 1990, Newlands Systems has distinguished

Ska Fabricating

itself as the premiere North American brewing equipment manufacturer. Newlands designs

breweries from the brew master's perspective. Newlands boasts a long history with every brew system and has the brewing experience, engineering and technical background, and skilled craftsmanship to build your

S

ka Fabricating automates packaging lines for craft businesses, specializing in depalletizing, repalletizing, conveyance, rinsing, drying, fill

detection and date coding.

custom stainless steel brewery.

Novaflex Hose

Sterling Press & Packaging

P

roviding a multitude of pack sizes ranging from 4

N

ovaflex offers a complete line of material handling, petroleum, food grade, chemical and

pack up to 24 packs for cans and single cartons to 12 packs for bottles. Your brand is unique and our

mining hoses, marine hose products, expansion

packaging can help tell your story. Come by and create

joints and connectors. Novaflex is a leading manufacturer

uniquely designed packaging and differentiate yourself

of flexible ducting and hose products designed for

on the shelf.

superior flexibility; high temperature, chemical and abrasion resistance using advanced thermoplastics and textile technology.

Premier Stainless Systems

United Bottles and Packaging

Y

our source for distinctive and quality packaging for the craft beer & cider industry. We offer the largest selection of fast from stock in North America. Bulk

F

alco Technologies is a recognized brewery

or pre-packed. Fast turnaround time. Guaranteed pressure

custom tank fabricator. For more than 30 years,

ratings. 3 distribution centers (Montreal, Los Angeles &

we are participating into our customer's growth by

Denver). NA & German Glass only..

manufacturing fermenters & bright beer tanks, from craft

YCH Hops

brewers to majors international brands. From round to square, vertical to horizontal, market leaders recognize our expertise in manufacturing very best quality for highly customized tanks.

Y

akima Chief - Hopunion is a 100% growerowned, global hop supplier focused on providing premium quality hops and uncompromising

service.

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Brewers Journal Canada

Official

Lindr Unit Distributor

Brewfitt’s range of Lindr dispense units are designed to dispense excellent chilled beer anytime and anywhere.

The units can be used as a permanent or mobile dispense unit.

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Pride in Provenance Scotland's Fyne Ales had a buoyant 2017.

Production exceeded 10,000hl for the first time in a single year, it brewed more than 50 different beers and its FyneFest event was a success. So in 2018, with the recent launch of its mixed fermentation Origins Brewing project and an increased focus on keg output, the team are more enthused than ever about the future.

my first exposure to those types of beers. So each year, I’d go back to the US and learn more about multi-culture fermentation beers, hunting them down to open my mind even more.”

After listening and learning from Chad King, head brewer at Denver, Colorado’s Crooked Stave, Delap was entranced on how one year King could present a theory with research at one end of the brewing spectrum, then return to CBC a year later and hear King offer up a new take on what came before.

“It showed me that there was always something new to learn. That people across the globe are constantly evolving, constantly developing across the brewing map

by tim sheahan

O

ne of the most valuable and special characteristics of the beer industry is that it is rarely confined by geographical boundaries. Sure, you could lament why a beer is readily available in the UK and not

and that we, as Fyne Ales, could also write our Scottish part of the story,” he says.

And that’s what Delap did, along with brewer Andrea Ladas, in a New York airport two years ago.

“That final visit crystallised what we wanted to do and we wrote the business plan there and then!”

Fast forward to the closing stages of 2017, and the Fyne Ales team are seeing the culmination of those ideas

in the US where you are on holiday – although they are

come to light. The Argyll-based brewery has drawn upon

brewing it just several states away. Or equally, bemoan

mixed fermentation, use of wood and barrels, as well as

why your favourite Imperial Stout is nigh on impossible

locally-sourced and foraged ingredients, in its new Origin

to procure overseas. But logistics aside, beer is truly a

Brewing beers.

universal language.

And it’s that vernacular that is increasingly resonating with Fyne Ales’ Jamie Delap.

“I’ve been fortunate enough to attend the Craft Brewers Conference (CBC) in the US each year, but it was after visiting San Francisco back in 2011, I took the time to visit Russian River,” he says. “It was then that I was lucky enough to try their barrel-aged sours, which was probably

brewersjournal.ca

The first beers that form its Autumn 2017 collection comprise Pandora (8.3%) – an aged, mixed fermentation saison conditioned on foraged blackberries, Kilkerran

Wee Heavy (7.6%) – a dark scotch ale matured in Kilkerran whisky barrels, Amphora (8.1%) – a blended grape ale fermented in wine barrels with sweet cherries and Goodnight, Summer (5.4%) – a tart wheat beer brewed with camomile and aged on gooseberries.

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“Origins Brewing is the realisation of a vision that we began shaping over four-years ago. Talking to and visiting breweries like Jester King, Allagash and Hill Farmstead over the past few years, we’ve been hugely inspired by what they’re doing to make creative beers that are proudly a product of and showcase of their environment,” says Ladas.

Delap and the team are proud about the reception these new beers have received, but they are also keen to point out that the Origins project forms only one part of the Fyne Ales proposition.

“Origins, to a degree, is us trying to step things up a notch and push the message but it’s also a continuation of what we’ve been doing for many, many years. They are an evolution of what we’ve been doing, in terms of experimentation, for a good while. But it was time to take that next step," explains Delap.

Adding this string to the brewery’s bow in recent years has coincided with installation of a larger 40bbl Musk Engineering brewhouse. This newer kit complements an original 10bbl setup that is now used for experimentation and investigation into more diverse beer styles.

“You could argue that we wanted to have our head turned by the German side of brewhouse manufacturing but the more we dug into it, we realised we wanted to do great things from where we are. We believe in provenance in beer and we are part of British craft brewing, so the Musk setup was perfect for us,” he explains. “It allows us to utilise a full-size hop back so at the end of the boil, we can transfer the whole brew length onto whole leaf hops.”

Fyne Ales have been doing a lot of brewing in 2017,

“ ales ,

scotland

Cask beer does not need to be a charity case Jamie Delap, Fyne Ales

Right: Fyne Ales is exploring the importance of provenance and mixed fermentation through its Origins Brewing project

growth is the structured approach to creating small-batch specials and making sure we’ve got the right amount of beer in the right styles at the right times. We’ve played around with styles a little bit too, producing some fun new beers that seem to have been very well received.”

Many of those beers have been borne from collaboration.

“We’ve been privileged to work with some awesome breweries this year to produce some great, interesting beers, including Canediguerra, Orbit Beers and Out

explains Delap. “Overall, 2017 saw growth in production

Of Town,” he says. “We’ve also been lucky enough to

and sales of beer in all formats - cask, keg and bottle; with

collaborate with some talented folk out of the brewing

production exceeding 10,000HL for the first time in a year,

industry – Pork’N’Roll from Rome, Brewdog’s Glasgow

which was pretty much in line with our expectations.

bar, coffee-kings Artisan Roast and our friends from Inver

“In total, we brewed over fifty different beers in the past

Restaurant and Springbank Distillers for the first Origins

twelve months, at least forty of which were brand new

Brewing collection. These kind of collaborations are really

recipes. Of the new beers, 19 were cask exclusive, 13 were

fun for us. Each of them bring unique contributions that

keg exclusive and 14 were bottled; that’s quite a lot of new

add new dimensions to our beers.”

beer. The numbers are somewhat illustrative of the year

Iain Smith, marketing manager at Fyne Ales, points out

the increased demand for diversity we had for bottled and

that it is this diversity that gives the brewery three bands

keg beer, leading to lots of creative freedom to brew new

to its existence: the core cask beers; its keg offering; and

and interesting beers like Devine, The Mystic and Cold

the new Origins Brewing project.

Brew Mills & Hills," he says.

Delap adds: “We’re quite proud that we’ve continued to grow our cask beer sales – in a time when too many people are saying that the cask beer market is in crisis, we’ve managed to push forward on our quality standards and grow our sales around the UK and overseas in a way that is sustainable now and for the long term.

“For us, cask beer is a key part of being a British craft brewery – it’s a big part of the UK’s contribution to the story of brewing. One of the key contributors to the

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“Of course, there is an overlap with what beers appeal to who but at the same time, we do have certain audiences for each part of this business. Regardless of dispense or style though, we want to take people on a journey,” he says.

The brewery’s own personal evolution sees its current output split somewhere between 70% on its core beers such Jarl, Hurricane Jack and Highlander, and the remainder with its newer beers such as Sanda Blonde

IPA and Mills & Hills. The latter is a 9.5% Imperial Stout

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been in business. Even seven or eight years ago, Delap explains that there was feverish debate over what was ‘craft’ and what wasn’t.

“The discussions were endless, simply endless. But regardless, I have always taken the stance that each new producer of good beer on the scene is rarely one person.

It’s a group of people. And those people are getting out there and telling people about good beer. It’s about getting out there, hearing those stories and bringing more consumers into the space,” says Delap.

“Sure, there are people are pursuing deeply unsustainable business models and I’ll be honest, that is very tedious. They are going around and selling beer too cheap. What’s the point? I wouldn’t say everyone is an exceptionally good egg, but most are.

"On the whole, we haven’t had much of the low price competition that England has. The absence of something like the SIBA BeerFlex up here has kept prices healthy but equally, England is a growth spot for us and we know that.

It’s our happy place and we are seeing great growth with cask across England thanks to the nine wholesalers we work with.”

While cask remains a boon for Fyne Ales, 2018 will see the business expand its production capacity further.

Jamie Delap (r): " Sometimes Scottish beers don't get the credit they deserve compared to their English cousins".

Delap says: “We’ve found ourselves hitting our limits far more often than we’re comfortable with this year, and with what we’ve got planned for beer launches next year, there’s no way we could avoid investing in some new tanks. The current plan will allow us to double our output

collaboration with De Molen that features Sorachi Ace

over the next few years, so hopefully you’ll be seeing a lot

and Calypso adding a unique dimension to the beer.

more Fyne Ales beer out in the wild.

Despite this split in the brewery’s core and so-called

“In addition to more of our core cask range, we are

modern, craft styles, Fyne Ales remains fully-focused on

also launching revamped keg and 330ml packaged range

both cask and keg output.

featuring the result of our Workbench project as a new

"Cask is so important to us, it’s essential to what we do. Yes, we are seeing growth in keg but cask is perfect for us. There is a narrative in cask where it can fall out of

flagship beer, along with a couple of other new yearround beers.”

The aforementioned Workbench project has allowed

favour, but in my opinion, you can still make it successful

the company’s brewers to get creative with hops and

and wholly sustainable. It’s not a charity case,” stresses

ways to use them. We were aiming for a particular fruity

Delap.

and floral vibe for our new core range IPA and we’re pretty

“When we started back in 2001, there were more breweries in one town in Belgium than the whole of Scotland. There were really no good ales in Argyll. You

confident Workbench Fourth Draft is close to what we were after,” he says.

Armed with an expanding core cask range, a

probably had the option of a Deuchars IPA and that’s

broadening keg output and its new Origins Brewing

about it.

project, Delap and his team have high hopes for 2018 and

“But over time, we evolved and others did, too.

beyond. But they also know the hard work starts now.

Bringing in bright American hops, taking the platform and

“We want to continue exploration in beer. We know

upping it to where we wanted it to go. Because the scene

cask, we know our bottled output, but focusing more on

was so dire, much worse than English scene at that point,

keg is something we want to do, as well. We’re taking the

the next wave of Scottish beer happened much quicker

initiative but in Scotland, we also need to work together,”

than many may have expected. Pale and hoppy beers

he says. “Sometimes Scottish beers don’t get as much

became prevalent.”

credit, attention and hype as their cousins down south in

There has been a great deal of growth in the Scottish brewing community during the 17-years Fyne Ales has

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England. But there’s no reason we can’t produce beer just as excellent."

Brewers Journal Canada

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s en s eS

s c i ence

Up your nose Which part of a brewer’s body is constantly working? Even the brain has a tea break and the eyes automatically close when sleep arrives. The tongue only works when beer is sipped and the ears only respond when pumps whirr or the phone rings. Muscles relax too, both in response to the end of work pint and the end of day pillow, explains Dr Keith Thomas from Brewlab.

and benefits from a separate nasal cavity allowing perception of aroma at a distance. In assessment of a beer this is valuable and not only in keeping your food out of your nostrils. A particular advantage is the sensitivity of the system being enhanced by the large volume of air drawn into the lungs – 23,000 breaths per day containing over 400 cubic meters. Just try swallowing that volume to taste your beer.

What though is in a brewer’s nose? Shining a torch won’t show a great deal but more delicate investigations show that the nasal cavity contains a number of bony ridges to warm incoming air. In the upper part of the cavity are two areas of nerve receptors. One branch in the

by Dr Keith Thomas

bridge of the nose, another at the very top of the cavity.

Those in the bridge of the nose are connected to the

M

trigeminal nerve and respond to a limited number of

when conditions require attention. Few brewers though

other materials active on the trigmenal nerves. While such

have not experienced a moment of anxiety when an

stimulations may have their direct impression a secondary

undesirable aroma is suddenly perceived on a tour of the

result is to reduce the sensitivity of the major aroma

brewery or wafting into the brewery office. Stale malt by

receptors. In effect the body concentrates on a potential

the mill, a phenolic tang in the fermentation room or a

hazard – high CO2, intense cold or chemical dangers.

burning aluminium from an overheated pump.

Meanwhile it forgoes the delights of hop character of

eanwhile the nose continually

chemicals, generally potentially hazardous ones such as

responds to the environment providing

carbon dioxide and to the impact of low temperature. The

information on the brewing process

fizz from a mouthful of lemonade is enough to stimulate

or, hopefully, awakening the sleeping

these and the sharp snap of burping a fizzy drink is a

body if the house fills with smoke.

good example of the effect.

Much of this is unconscious, only alerting the brewer

In performing this function the nose is acting as the most basic animal sense, responding directly to

Capicinoid oils from chillies and mustard oils are two

complex esters.

The fact that many beers are designed to maximise

chemicals constantly flowing into the body. Primitive

the impact of two of these features, CO2 and low

animals such as amphibians and reptiles don’t have noses

temperature, has inevitable implications on overall flavour

separate from their mouths just an oral cavity where taste

character.

and aroma receptors pass information directly to the Fortunately a brewer’s physiology is more advanced

62

Under less challenging conditions the nose uses the main aroma receptors to detect specific chemicals. Four

brain.

Spring 2018

million of these receptors reside in the nasal cavity. Many

Brewers Journal Canada

s en s es

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less than the 200 million in a bloodhound but enough to fire up when exposed to a hoppy pint of beer. Similarly, compared to the tongue the range of responses covers a forest of flavour rather than a handful of tastes. Many thousands of aroma chemicals may produce a response here giving a widely expanded impression of the world.

The process of response may be similar to the tongue with aroma molecules fitting into receptors of specific shapes on the receptor cells. Once an aroma flavour fits into a receptor the cell generates an electrical impulse.

If enough cells do this they may stimulate a nerve cell which will conduct an impulse to the brain. Only eight molecules may be needed to stimulate a cell and although forty cells may be required for the brain to perceive the aroma the total number of molecules is relatively few.

This doesn’t mean that the nose responds to every aroma. Some are much more evident than others. For example we are most sensitive to the smell of burning hair, and rightly so. Our response to ethanol is very much less, requiring a concentration of around 4% before we stand much chance of recognition.

Diacetyl and 2,3 butane diol are two other examples

Above: A breakdown of the human tongue

with very different thresholds. The ease with which one is converted into the other and alters beer flavour during maturation indicates how rapidly a beer may change its character.

Although the nose responds most directly to aromas from a distant source it is equally active during the

of this and can lead to allergic reactions in sensitive individuals if enough gas burps out into the lungs.

Changes in aroma may also occur when some

swallowing of beer. When beer reaches the back of the

compounds are diluted. Mercaptan aromas can be

mouth it is agitated and warmed. Less volatile aromas

examples of a beer flavour showing this feature. Animal

are released and spray up into the back of the nose.

scent glands are others. Many of the latter are repulsive

Perception of certain aromas is best made at this point so

when met raw but revered when diluted in perfume.

concentrate hard as you swallow. The nose responds to

Fortunately these aromas can now be manufactured

such aromas at the same time as the tongue is savouring

synthetically but it does beg the speculation of how

tastes. Interaction of responses between nose and mouth

the attraction of diluted animal excrescence was ever

doubtless occurs in the brain resulting in a synergy of

discovered.

flavour.

This response does not end once the beer is

Keeping a healthy nose is essential to your sensory evaluation programme. This is more than just the use of

swallowed, as flavours will persist in the body for some

a tissue when you sneeze but a conscious awareness

time circulating in the blood stream. Experiments have

of minimising nasal stress. Physiologists are aware that

even measured the release of odour molecules back into

the human nose is poorly designed for air flow. A tight

the nasal cavity from the blood so causing an after drink

hairpin bend at the top of the cavity slows air movements

appreciation. The possibility of this aiding digestion or

and limits the nose’s use during the heavy breathing of

encouraging further intake is an unexplored area.

exercise. As soon as you start running or chasing a squash

A similar effect is possible from tasteless foods and materials. Drug tablets for example, are typically swallowed whole and not tasted. Contamination or

ball the mouth falls open allowing air a direct run into the lungs.

Many other animals have a more direct nasal route.

poor choice of coating materials may lead to flavours

Animals such as snakes, pigs and squirrels, which operate

appearing in the blood and causing nausea when

close to the ground, have the greatest nasal capacity per

released into the nose. The same may be possible of

body size. Our own convolutions seem to have resulted

foods which are swallowed rapidly or which react with

from the expansion of our brain and, possibly, as a means

stomach acids to release flavour active compounds.

of filtering particles from incoming air. The presence of

The production of sulphur dioxide is one example

brewersjournal.ca

nasal hairs helps this and soon accumulate a nose full of

Spring 2018

63

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dirt and dust. Naturally this can block the perception of

characteristics it is important to refer to underlying

aromas so limiting your response.

chemicals such as trans 2 nonenal rather than the more

For a tasting panel this means that your members may differ according to their environment at home, their

evocative but vague terms “cardboard” or “wet clothes”.

The list of reference terms and compounds detailed

activities at work and any recent exposures to dust and

by the Joint Working Groups of the EBC, ASBC and

particles. Industrial regulations now control and limit

MBAA2 provides the basis for international standardisation

working environments but enthusiastic home renovations

and should be used in training to ensure that comparable

can create equally poor effects. One brewery avoids

impressions are obtained by different panels. Repetitive

critical tasting sessions on a Monday to minimise the

exposure is necessary to develop an appropriate and

effects of weekend activities.

accurate flavour memory – in much the same way as

Occasional exposures to irritants will produce temporary effects. Continual exposure may permanently

regular conversation will improve your French.

Taste memory has a further, less quantifiable,

disable. Staff at a 1960’s tyre factory in the UK were

dimension in the evocation of personal emotions and

continually exposed to solvents for remoulding rubber.

memories. Literature contains numerous instances of

Not did they become addicted to the solvent but lost all

such evocations as a means to recall events. Personal

trace of aroma recognition. Living in urban environments

experiences can often be recalled by a particular smell.

may perform less extreme effects, but could make

Can beer stimulate emotions by recall? Many synthetic

standardisation of taste panels difficult. Regular, chronic

flavours are used to promote sales of specific products.

exposure to solvents, perhaps as encountered in

In fact only 20% of the perfume industry’s output is sold

laboratories may achieve a similar effect.

as personal perfume. 80% is used in providing aromas to

Mucus is the key to nasal regeneration as it flows

variously unpleasant or neutrally smelling materials, from

across the nasal receptors wiping the area for fresh

toilet paper to bin sacks. Magazines may be impregnated

stimulation. As with taste the nose is affected by illness. A

with aromas for particular advertisements while

heavy bout of cold severely reduces aroma perception,

potentially offensive plastic or rubber materials may be

possibly because of the increase in mucus flow but also

infused with more attractive aromas than those naturally

be distracting the brain’s response to the stimulation.

arising from their chemical origin.

More serious diseases can be accompanied by an

Perfumes are also used in targeted sales promotions

odour on the breath, most probably due to metabolic

as aerosols in shopping areas and may be included in

changes in the body. Ketones indicate diabetes. Typhus

CD’s for release on playing. How the underlying aroma of

is associated with the smell of mice, plague with mellow

stale bar carpets affects our drinking associations may be

apples, yellow fever with butchering and nephritis with

a project worth exploring.

ammonia. The effect of these on flavour perception is

Old beer will certainly find difficulties in matching

unknown but the appearance of any in your tasting panel

public aroma expectations. However, freshly pulled beer

would be cause for concern.

does carry a wealth of fruit and hop aromas which tend

That said sensitivity isn’t always the most critical

to have positive associations. Some of this will results

requirement of a tasting panel. In some cases it is the

from appropriate marketing to the beer drinking public

ability to judge the overall character of a beer against

but the association of beer with pleasurable experiences

standards and criteria. Is today’s brew up to scratch?

is continually encouraged and reinforced. In some cases

Which sample is the odd one out? How does a new

this may be neutralised by other associations and the

brew compare to last weeks or with the same beer from

amnesiac effect of drink itself. Perhaps an expansion

a different brewery? Or even more difficult - which is the

of beer flavours into other products would expand this

best beer of the competition?

association and produce a more persistent effect. Beer

Flavour perception is most competently applied in middle age when experience provides the context and

flavoured chocolates, tyres and tissues may be just the stimulus the industry needs.

comparabilities to judge a complex sample. In contrast

References

sensitivity is most acute in pre pubescent girls – not a group we would use to fill a beer tasting panel.

Maturity and experience are valuable attributes, both of which involve memory of beers, flavours and

Simpson, W. A Rough Guide to Beer Flavour Assessment.

associated features. Developing a flavour memory

Brewers' Guardian. September 1997.

enhances your ability to recognise and identify flavours.

However, for technical work it is important to ensure that

Meilgaard, M.C. Dalgliesh, C. E and Clapperton, J. F. Beer

flavour memory is associated with agreed reference

Flavour Terminology. Journal of the Institute of Brewing. Vol

standards1. For example in the recognition of stale

85. 38-42.

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Brewers Journal Canada

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s c i ence

d e x tr i n s

Dealing with Dextrins A beer’s body will be somewhere in the range from watery, through light, solid, grainy and creamy to thick and cloying. Crafting this characteristic can be a challenge and may vary for a number of reasons, not all of which are easy to control such as inconsistency of ingredients, explains Dr Keith Thomas, director at Brewlab.

to thick and cloying. Crafting this characteristic can be a challenge and may vary for a number of reasons, not all of which are easy to control such as inconsistency of ingredients.

Beers with few of the components listed above will have a watery body - limited thickness on the tongue, limited retention in the mouth and low viscosity. Such beers have a refreshing character. They are often of low original gravity generally hoppy and bright, typically lager-like and highly carbonated.

Thicker beers differ considerably. These linger longer in the mouth producing a creamy smoothness and solid

by Dr Keith Thomas, Brewlab

mouthfeel. They have a high viscosity, are often stronger and with a high finishing gravity. They are also the more

B

eer is often said to have body but what

challenging beers to brew and control.

The body of a beer results particularly from the

makes a beer watery? An obvious answer

presence of proteins and large, unfermentable sugars

is simple H2O. A feature which beer has in

called dextrins released during mashing. Alcohol may

abundance. Generally over 90% of your pint

also contribute. These components produce a viscous

is water with the remainder a mixture of

solution which contributes to the elevated gravity of a

protein, carbohydrate, salts and flavourings including, of

fermented beer. Without them beer would be as dry and

course, ethanol.

as low in gravity as wine.

Perhaps a better question is what features give beer

A simple viscosity effect may be enough to account

body? And - which features can you control to achieve a

for much of the body of a beer. Dextrin levels contribute

specific body to your beer?

significantly to this and their level may be adjusted by

The answer to this is less obvious as all manner of things may contribute to the impression of body: protein,

controlling the temperature of your mash.

Low temperatures (below 65oC) and low pH levels

unfermented sugars, hops, alcohol, polysaccharides and,

(pH 5.2) are more conducive to a full starch digestion.

perhaps, tannins. Even colour seems to influence the

Higher temperatures, over 65oC, are more likely to leave

perception of body with dark beers often judged stronger

significant levels of incompletely digested starch. These

and thicker.

dextrin molecules pass through the boil with little further

Body is the characteristic feature resulting from the components listed above and is an additional target on

change. They are too large to be fermented and so become a major component of the final beer.

your recipe listing. A beer’s body will be somewhere in the

Body does not necessarily correlate with bitterness or

range from watery, through light, solid, grainy and creamy

with astringency. Such features contribute independently

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Spring 2018

Brewers Journal Canada

d e x tr i n s

s c i ence

GF Piping Systems

to mouthfeel and may balance the smoothness of a thick beer. They also persist in the aftertaste after the beer drains down the throat so creating aftertaste.

Mouthfeel is certainly not just the body of a beer but

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a much more variable feature. Thickness contributes strongly to mouthfeel but so can dryness, astringency, metallic character and the tingle of carbonation. Body and thickness are, however, major features of mouthfeel which has been defined as “those textural attributes responsible for producing tactile sensations”.

Additional factors may occur in some conditions. High gravity fermentations, for example, produce glycerol which has a significant impact on mouthfeel. Adding sulphite salts, or having high sulphite levels during fermentation will also enhance the level of glycerol. Wine is typically smoothened by glycerol which may give high alcohol beers a vinous character.

Proteins and tannins from malt are a further contributor to mouthfeel. Your choice of malt, particularly the extent of its modification, may even be a factor and cause variability if you change sources regularly. Low tannin malt is sometimes used to limit the level of tannins and so create a less aggressive beer.

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Finally the degree of sweetness is particularly relevant.

Although dextrins aren’t particularly sweet some residual fermentable sugars will be and will provide a changing impression as they ferment in cask. Moreover, other components such as hop bitterness and tannins will act to balance sweetness and neutralise its effect.

With all these factors in the running is there a way to anticipate the effect of mouthfeel in your beer? Mashing at a range of temperatures is an unlikely experiment on

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a commercial level. Adding purified dextrins has been attempted but requires very high levels to really thicken a beer, almost as much as you would need to convert it to gravy.

A viscometer may be a useful tool to provide an objective measure of your beer’s thickness but requires an amount of laboratory support to operate. Keeping a careful note of your degree of fermentation, your final

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analyses.

brewersjournal.ca

Spring 2018

67

techn o l o g y

lauter

tun

So, I bought a lauter tun Roger Ryman, brewing director at St Austell, has previously said that by investing in good quality raw materials, you don’t need anything more complicated than a mash tun to convert it. Embracing a shift of opinion to produce a range of beer styles in the new Bath Ales brewery, speaking at the Brewers Lectures in Bristol late last year, Ryman explained why St Austell’s did in fact purchase a lauter tun.

we considered the merits of lauter tun vs. mash tun. In many cases I have seen brewers install lauter tuns on the basis of having the flexibility of handling variable quality raw materials, in the uncertainty of assured availability of good quality malting barley over the working life of the equipment. This in has many cases becomes a selffulfilling prophecy. Once flexible equipment is installed, the temptation to reduce raw material specifications for financial return is real. ‘’We elected for simple mash tun technology which requires consistent supply of high quality raw materials to feed it. For us, this means well modified malt made from low nitrogen Maris Otter barley. We then set about assuring the availability of this barley by working with our supply chain and establishing direct grower contracts with barley farmers (local) who we know and trust

by Rhian Owen

to produce a high quality barley. We elected to invest in our raw material and the supply chain, rather the over-complex

A

brewhouse equipment.’’

very wise man from Fullers once told

It is important, however, to recognise what you want

me that brewing is a gentle process,”

from your brewhouse. “Ultimately, what we’re looking

says Roger Ryman, brewing director at

for is good quality wort, flexibility to deal with different

St Austell. “And when you look at the

raw materials, also flexibility to deal with different styles

lauter tun and you see all the stirring and

of beers and quantities, and we’re looking for a return of

pumping, you may think ‘crikey, that’s all a bit intensive,

investment. So it’s all about operating costs and capital

surely you have to be kinder on the beer instead of using

costs from the brewery, and of course it does help if it

all of this mechanical energy?’ And, yes, there is a risk

looks fantastic,” Ryman says.

associated with this kind of process.”

Ryman explains that when it comes to brewhouse

It seems intricate then that Ryman, a seemingly

optimisation and selecting a mash tun, lauter tun or mash

intransigent advocate of the mash tun, would invest in

filter, it is always going to be a balance, trading off certain

a lauter tun 18 months ago. In 2015, when asked to give

aspects you may want from your brewhouse. “It is a case

a comment for a presentation at the Brewery Engineers

of really assessing those different technologies and the

Association Brewhouse, Ryman had this to say:

various merits associated with them,” Ryman says.

‘’When we replaced the brew-house (at St Austell)

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Spring 2018

“I think for most people, especially smaller brewers,

Brewers Journal Canada

lauter

tun

techn o l o g y

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tŽƌƚ YƵĂůŝƚLJ

ϴ ϳ

&ůĞdžŝďŝůŝƚLJ

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DĂŝŶƚĞŶĂŶĐĞ ŽƐƚ

DĂƐŚ dƵŶ

ϭ

ĂƉŝƚĂů ŽƐƚ

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>ĂƵƚĞƌ dƵŶ DĂƐŚ &ŝůƚĞƌ

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ĨĨůƵĞŶƚͬ ƌLJ 'ƌĂŝŶ

LJĐůĞ dŝŵĞ what are really looking for is wort quality,” Ryman says.

needs to look at operating costs and maintenance costs.

“So I think the mash tun still wins hands down in terms of

Usually the capital cost is greater if you’re going to invest

delivering good consistent bright quality wort. Capital cost

in that technology.

also matters because you only have a certain amount of

Bath Ales acquistion

money to spend and mash tuns are simple and relatively inexpensive.

“Flexibility is also hugely important as you’re going to be looking at being able to brew different types of beer and different brew lengths,” Ryman adds. In terms of flexibility, Rymans adds that the lauter tun performs better than a mash tun.

When breweries start coming into larger production,

O

n 1 July 2016 St Austell Brewery acquired Bath Ales, including its brewery, portfolio of beer brands and their 11-strong pub and restaurant

estate. When the Cornwall-based brewery bought Bath Ales they had an infusion mash brewhouse with a

automation becomes important. Lauters and mash filters

50 barrel brew length, brewed twice a day, which was

are most suitable for this purpose, and then the brewery

working at capacity.

brewersjournal.ca

Spring 2018

69

techn o l o g y

lauter

tun

Do you have enough updraft for your copper?

Successful installation of the lauter tun relies on getting the wort kettle vent diameter right. The above diagram and the calculation to the right show consultant JM Bowler's approach at the Bath Ales site.

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Brewers Journal Canada

lauter

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tun

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techn o l o g y

lauter

tun

In order to grow the business, St Austell had to

“For one, the capital cost was actually less than the

consider what they were going to do with the brewhouse.

dual mash option, and that’s because to get the cycle

In March 2017 the brewery announced its plans for Bath

times we would have to put an extra vessel in.” he says.

Ales, which includes a multi-million pound investment.

“And we were satisfied that the engineering design

“When we acquired the business about 18 months ago, the current operation is they have an infusion mash

eliminated the negatives.”

Ryman adds that a lauter tun is essential for

brewhouse with a 50 barrel brewlength, which is brewed

competitive tendering with continental suppliers, as well

twice a day, and is working at capacity,” says Ryman. “In

as being able to brew authentic European styles lagers

order to grow the business we had to consider what we

and flexibility to brew other beer styles.

were going to do with the brewhouse. We could put on a

“All brewhouses need to have the flexibility to produce

night shift, but that has imitations with the current facility,

a range of beer styles. We make our Korev lager in St

which is extremely tight and congested and we don’t

Austell using an infusion mash tun so clearly you can

have the fermentation capacity, so we had to move to a

make good lager using an infusion mash. But with Bath

new brewing space. We could just upsize the brewing kit

Ales we wanted to benchmark our suppliers; we’ve

and take it up to 100 barrels, or we could retain a 50 barrel

ordered our brewhouse from Musk Engineering, a UK

brewlength and increase the frequency up to four brews

manufacturer. They would have supplied us a double

a day. The small rapid batch has given us flexibility. We all

infusion mash tun system if that’s what we wanted, but

know how the market is going today - we need to be able

as soon as you start talking to the Germans they aren’t

to produce a range of different types of beers and we

going to talk to you about mash tuns. From a competitive

need to be able to produce them in small batches.”

tendering place, if you want to include the German

Ryman says that the small and rapid batch requires

technology, which really if you’re looking at an automated

less physical infrastructure but greater investment in

brewhouse you have to do that, then you’ve got to look at

control. The two options that the brewery had were

the continental brewing method.”

for a four vessel vessel (mash mixer, lauter, kettle and

Bath Ales is certain it'll be brewing a flexible range of

whirlpool) or a five vessel (2 x mash tuns, underback,

beers. “We want the flexibility to brew a range of styles,

kettle, and whirlpool). So why did they invest in a lauter

We'll brew a lager in that brewery. We haven’t worked out

tun?

with the branding is yet, but that’s a minor detail.”

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Brewers Journal Canada

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Nova Scotia Craft Beer Week, hosted by the Craft Brewers Association of Nova Scotia, is the largest celebration of craft beer in eastern Canada and it takes place from the 27th April until the 6th May, 2018.

20/04/18 - 24/01/18

St John's Brewfest Club One, St. John’s, NL wwww.stjohnsbrewfest.ca 27/04/18 - 06/05/18

nova scotia craft beer week Various locations, Nova Scotia www.nscraftbeer.ca/craftbeerweek 04/05/18 - 05/05/18

sarnia beer show Bayside Centre, Sarnia www.beershow.ca

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19/05/2018

muskoka 2/4 Craft Beer Festival River Mill Park - Huntsville, ON www.downtownhuntsvilleadventures.ca 25/05/18 - 26/05/18

top of the hops Prairieland Park Hall, Saskatoon, SK www.topofthehops.ca 25/05/18 - 03/06/18

vancouver craft beer week Various locations, Vancouver www.vancouvercraftbeerweek.com

Brewers Journal Canada